Kilgore Trout Magazine F/W 2011

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FORUM˜FALL 2011 UNHURRIED AND UNCOMMON SINCE 1977 KILGORETROUT.COM

INSPIRATION: IRELAND STYLE MATTERS CLOSET THERAPY

REFLECTING ON FALL

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ETON, 28601 Chagrin Blvd.

Cleveland, OH 44122 216-831-0488 kilgoretrout.com facebook.com/kilgoretroutcleveland EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian Sprague PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS

Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg Eadie

FEATURES 6 8 34 36 37

Welcome Letter 35th Anniversary: Time for a Double Take Profile: Edward Armah Profile: A Decade of Agave Flashback

DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

Hugh K. Stanton

BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER

Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine Sullivan

FASHION 14 38 40 42 48

Who is Kilgore Trout?

Style: Trends for Men Wardrobe: Men’s Fashion in Film Life Is But a Dream Why Style Matters

DEPARTMENTS 30 32 56 60 64

Ask Forum for Him Ask Forum for Her World Scene Wheels: Vintage Road Show End Page: Closet Therapy

APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 12 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2011. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-6866821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 14, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

Passion for Life 15MilMil15 Suit

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PERFECT F I TTI NG JEANS SHOULDN’T BE A STRETCH MADE WITH REVOLUTIONARY 4-WAY STRETCH DENIM.

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Art Direction/Design Christopher Hixson

Photography Ted Sikora

Makeup The Powder Room

Hair Studio MZ

TIME FOR A DOUBLE TAKE.

Three-and-a-half decades and still having fun in the name of fashion

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I’ve loved getting dressed up since high school, when Tim Taylor and I were famous for being a bit competitive in earning style points with the girls. Tim went on to become the Emmy award-winning anchorman; I followed suit and became the Esquire awardwinning anchor merchant. That childhood relationship helped define us both. Thirty-five years later, one of the things I still love about this business—and Cleveland—is that we put a lot of stock into our relationships with one another. Lately, we’ve been cementing quite a few new ones here at the store. Our regular clients have no doubt met our terrific new associates, Paula and Joe. Both have stellar credentials and they share a passion for their customers. They’ve fit seamlessly into the Kilgore Trout culture and have quickly become integral to our team of committed pros. And every day, we’re meeting clients—many for the first time—who are discovering that, even at 35, Kilgore Trout is the clothing store of choice, in the location of choice, with relationships at the core. Whether you’ve been with us for 35 years or 35 days, we thank you, and we promise to continue doing all we can to build our relationship. We all look forward to your next visit.

WALLY NAYMON SHOPKEEPER KIL_Local.indd 6

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JOE AUGUSTINE Joe may be the new guy, but his style pedigree runs deep. With over 20 years as a buyer and seller with some of the greatest men’s stores in the country (James Davis in Memphis, Andrisen Morton in Denver, and Boyds of Philadelphia), Joe has the goods and is quickly developing a following.

JOE SAYS: “The foundation of a great wardrobe will always be the jacket, and more importantly, its precise tailoring— fitting perfectly to your body and to your personality.

“After the jacket, it’s all in the details— style-defining touches that speak to you.

For me this fall, it’s Edward Armah’s pocket circles, V.K. Nagrani’s fabulously frivolous socks, and the glimpse of selvage on the up-turned cuff of the jean (authentic Japanese denim, of course).

“My advice? When standing, ALWAYS wear your jacket buttoned. If it’s property fitted, it’ll take off 15 pounds and will make the difference between simply wearing a nice jacket and being well-dressed.”

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LAURA MAROTTA Laura’s kids are now 7, 10 and 13—the younger two timed flawlessly with both of our remodelings 7 and 10 years ago. She’s been taking great care of Kilgore Trout clients since 1988, and she keeps her fingers crossed that we’re not planning a renovation any time soon.

LAURA’S ADVICE: “The most important accessory a woman can have is self-confidence. Then, find your own personal style at a store where your sales associates will be honest with you.

“Must-haves for fall? Cute dresses, a great trench, and a fabulous laser-cut leather hobo bag!”

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KRISTIN BONECUTTER As a graduate of Kent State University’s School of Fashion Merchandising (where Kilgore Trout sponsors a scholarship), Kristin came into our business...shall we say...the scholarly way. Unlike some of us who started as toddlers in the rag trade, Kristin developed her passion for fashion by design, and has honed a sharp sense of style, knowledge of the trends, and a keen sense of how to pull together just the right look.

KRISTIN’S ADVICE: “Wear what looks good on your body, and be sure to have honest friends and clothing consultants help you know the difference!”

TIME FOR A DOUBLE TAKE.

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PAULA BRADLEY Paula may be one of our freshest faces, but she’s been just up the road at a certain national retailer for over 13 years, where she was consistently recognized for extraordinary achievement and performance as an Ermenegildo Zegna specialist. Paula is a graduate of the Fashion Institute, and spent a good part of her career in Los Angeles, catering to the celebrity set.

PAULA’S ADVICE: “Wear what works, and if it happens to align with a trend, great! But if not, don’t worry. Style is personal.

And personally, I love the continued emphasis on great tailored fit, plus men who are not afraid to add a little color to their wardrobes, and of course, that classic French cuff shirt!”

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CHERYL MACMASTER The personal attention that Cheryl has been providing to her roster of devoted Kilgore Trout clients since before the turn of the millenium has few limits. She’s the type who’ll go to the ends of the earth to get you that shirt you forgot to bring along for the big meeting or the great suit that you didn’t think you could track down in your size.

CHERYL’S ADVICE FOR GUYS: “Every guy, even the most casual, ought to have a navy or black sportcoat, a navy and gray suit, and a great selection of shirts. A hot little sports car is always a good accessory, too.”

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SANDY HOSSACK Sandy’s start in fashion came at her mother’s Philadelphia handbag store when she was just 16, and she first started inspiring Kilgore Trout women’s shop clients over 18 years ago in our first women’s store.

SANDY SAYS: “Accessorize. And if something doesn’t feel good the minute you try it on, don’t buy it!

There’s nothing worse than a beautiful article of clothing spending a lifetime in a closet that should be filled with things we adore wearing.”

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JOEL STECKER

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Joel’s pretty fond of his slogan that dates from the ’60s (and rumor has it originated as a policy at Solomon Brothers with Michael Bloomberg as an ardent devotee). For Joel, it’s British-inspired style with a modern twist. And Yiddish for his sharp sense of humor and always making even the mundane seem fun. With three decades of luxury menswear experience in Cleveland, Joel’s desire to make your Kilgore Trout experience a memorable one is paramount. He’s been our director of outside sales for a few years, and now his full-time presence in the store lets clients know that Kilgore Trout is always open for business.

JOEL’S ALWAYS A WALKING BILLBOARD: Samuelsohn MTM jacket, Etro tie, Kilgore Trout custom shirt, To Boot New York suede shoes, V.K. Nagrani socks, John Varvatos belt, Edward Armah pocket square.

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ANDREA NAYMON As our women’s store buyer, Andrea searches the markets and showrooms for just the right mix of clothing, sportswear and accessories for the ladies who depend on Kilgore Trout for uncommon and fresh finds, season after season.

She’ll always give our customer ‘first dibs’ on the good stuff—but she’s been known to keep a classic or two for herself.

ANDREA’S ADVICE (ON WALLY): “Trust me. He’s a day older.”

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HE’S ELUSIVE AND ENIGMATIC...

A creation from the mind of exalted experimental science fiction writer Kurt Vonnegut and the namesake of our fine clothing establishment, Kilgore Trout is (as Vonnegut later recounted) “the only character I ever created who had enough imagination to suspect that he might be the creation of another human being. He had spoken of this possibility several times to his parakeet.”

Kilgore Trout was born of American parents on Bermuda, and attended grammar school there until his father’s job with the Royal Ornithological Society terminated. The family moved to Dayton, and thereafter, he wandered around the country, working at menial low-paying jobs and writing science fiction in his spare time. He has been married and divorced three times, and has written one hundred seventeen novels and two thousand short stories. Yet until recently he was little known due to his extreme reclusivity and his indifference to the publication of his stories.

Here we explore the psyche of Kilgore Trout, sharing things his parakeet knew, but even his creator did not. (adapted from Vonnegut’s Venus on the Half Shell)

CREATIVE DIRECTOR CHRISTOPHER HIXSON

PHOTOGRAPHY ANDREW MCALLISTER

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Tartan plaid velvet blazer, pure cotton shirt and jeans, all by Sand. Pure silk tie by Charvet.

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Kilgore Trout is a refined gent who loves rock ‘n roll.

Star USA by John Varvatos leather hooded field jacket and crinkle cotton shirt.

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Autumn Cashmere vintage rugby crewneck and ombre stripe half-zip sweaters. All jeans by PRPS: raw, distressed and vintage denim.

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Above: Handbag and shoulder bag from Linea Pelle in crimson garment washed Italian leather.

Left: Gimo’s winter coat for her in champagne nylon.

Right page, from left: Haute Hippie gray cotton graphic “Strange Trip” pocket tee and “I need a moment” tee, Haute Hippie gray knit wool fringe vest, Line “Folklore” wrap in gray.

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Kilgore Trout loves a woman who doesn’t send mixed messages.

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White and Warren purple cashmere cable knit dress worn with Etro scarf.

Etro “Hi-Lo” corduroy blazer and pure cotton shirt.

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deal of the pre-season

$44990 after 10/1 it’ll be $595

From Left: Belstaff wool knit blazer-style outerwear with zip inset, Diesel toggle coat, Allegri “Rain Cashmere” weather-proof coat with removable insert, Kilgore Trout tweed jacket with removable suede insert, Stone Island technical stretch hip-length jacket.

Kilgore Trout always attempts to outsmart the prognosticators.

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Above: Robert Comstock ultra-lite Spanish merino shearling hip-length jacket and half-zip cashmere sweater. Etro jean.

Right: Luciano Barbera wool herringbone jacket, cashmere sweater and cotton shirt. Incotex plaid trouser in wool.

Below: Boglioli unlined vintage washed wool jacket.

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Her: Multi-colored “Keith” sweater by Line, Linea Pelle vintage belt, DL1961 “Joy” stretch twill super high-rise flare jean.

Him: Diesel lightweight tweed cardigan sweater, AG Adriano Goldschmied “Protege” corduroy jean in sulfur.

Kilgore Trout often throws on a cardigan and he periodically throws back a martini.

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W.R.K. stands for “Work. Rest. Karma.” A new collection of sportswear imbued with tech, function, and fashion. From left: V-neck cashmere/wool stripe sweater, shawl collar jacket, knit trouser, and pure cotton shirt. Longshoreman’s style wool cap by Wigens.

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W.R.K. lined technical jacket with dedicated zipped storage for cell, iPad, e-reader, and a host of devices that are too smart for their own good.

Kilgore Trout loves smart clothing for guys with smart devices.

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Elizabeth and James “Paulina” dress, DL1961 premium four-way stretch waxed cotton “Emma” jean in black, Melissa “vegan” shoe.

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Crossley cotton and wool “Yoyo” tank dress, Bell plaid cotton flannel belted shirt dress.

Kilgore Trout is intrigued by a woman who keeps him guessing.

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Swap the trousers for the day’s meetings Wear the suit coat as a sport jacket

Jeans for comfort on

Layer the sweater for a cool evening

the plane

on the town

Kilgore Trout wants his wardrobe to always suit his mood.

1great suit that wears as separates.1perfectly fitting jean. 1shirt that moves from business to pleasure.1luxurious and layerable sweater.

Above and opposite page: Left: “Z” Zegna gray plaid suit, Robert Talbott Estate plaid cotton shirt, Raffi half-zip cashmere sweater, PRPS jean.

Center: Ermenegildo Zegna peak lapel navy chalk stripe suit, Ermenegildo Zegna lavender check cotton shirt, Robert Talbott Carmel argyle sweater, Sand jean.

Right: Samuelsohn chalk stripe suit, Eton of Sweden cotton stretch shirt, Raffi merino wool V-neck sweater with contrast sleeve, “Z” Zegna slim-fit black jean.

Smart winter gear isn’t just outerwear. This Samuelsohn travel blazer with stain resistant and waterproof Loro Piana storm system technology stays crisp and dry when you’re caught in an unexpected moment while traveling or in Cleveland’s everchanging weather.

Below: A collection of pocket rounds by Edward Armah.

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Kilgore Trout is the master of his domain. kilgoretrout.com

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ASKFORUM Q:

My girlfriend has been buying me scarves but I have no idea how to wear them. Are they in style?

Yes, more than ever! Whether cashmere or wool, bulky hand knits or fine gauge with fringe, bright solids or patterned alpine designs, a scarf is the easiest way to add personality to your look. The trick to wearing them: don’t overthink it! Just wrap your favorite scarf around your neck a few times, or try the European way: fold a long scarf in half, drape it around your neck, and pull the ends through the loop. Voila! Instant panache. And don’t wait for the snowstorms: a beautiful scarf is a great fashion accent, whatever the weather.

Q:

Magazines show bright color pants, yet on the streets, most guys wear jeans or khakis. What’s up with the color?

Bright colors (best in slim five-pocket models) are definitely a new direction for men’s trousers, most popular with contemporary customers and guys with self-confidence. If you dare, give them a try: color is fun, mood-elevating and not all that hard to wear. (Nantucket red has been a staple in New England for decades...) If you’re not so bold, try the new five-pocket models in neutral shades, in non-denim fabrics like brushed twill and corduroy.

With more options than ever in casual trousers, there’s no need to be boring—or bored.

Q:

IMAGE COURTESY OF LUCIANO BARBERA

Why buy clothing in a specialty store when so much is available online?

While shopping online can be tempting, there are many caveats. First of all, not all designers produce the same quality goods for all accounts. So a designer polo from a flash sale or discount site or outlet store might be a different weight or color than the “same” designer polo in an upscale store. Second, at independent specialty stores like ours, you work with store owners and trained tailors and wardrobe consultants whose reputation depends on making you look terrific. Most also offer free closet makeovers: they’ll come to your home, sort through your closet and update your wardrobe with a new piece or two to bring it all together. In addition, store owners stand behind their product, so you’ll never get stuck with an impulse-purchase-gone-wrong.

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ASKFORUM Q:

I wear jeans almost everywhere, but wish I had alternatives. Can you recommend some other stylish options?

Colored denim is the way to go for fall 2011. Not your typical jeans, the new colored denim adds personality to all kinds of tops and jackets. We love a bright jean (preferably skinny ankle length with heels or boots) worn with a contrasting bright top, or else with neutrals.

As for your regular blue denim jeans, slim is still in but so are wide legs and flares. You really need both styles this season.

Q:

I own a few scarves but am not sure how to wear them. Any ideas?

Scarves and shawls are bigger than ever for fall 2011, in cashmere, silk and blends. Fold a large square diagonally and drape it around your shoulders. (Keep one in your handbag if you tend to get cold.) Or take a long oblong, fold it in half and put the ends through the loop (very European) or else wrap it a few times around your neck or waist, or even your handbag. Stop by and we’d be happy to demonstrate. And while you’re here, check out our newly arrived scarves in fabulous colors and textures. With a simple top and trousers, the scarf makes the outfit (and makes a perfect gift if you’re unsure of sizes)!

Q:

IMAGE COURTESY OF LUCIANO BARBERA

Are leggings still in style? (I see so many women wear them who shouldn’t...)

Most definitely yes! Leggings are a great way to add a youthful flair to almost any outfit. They make mature women look young and chic, they cover winter-white legs when there’s no time to get a tan, and they’re generally very slimming.

Our main caveat: leggings are not pants! Make sure to wear a long enough top so that your derrière is completely covered. If you don’t own the right long tops (and there are plenty of gorgeous ones in our store for fall), you can wear your leggings with a flowy dress or even a pencil skirt and high-heeled wedges. In fact, good-quality leggings make everything you own look just a little more hip.

Come into the store and we’ll be happy to show you.

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go to facebook.com/etonofsweden tell us your favorite thing about Kilgore Trout and be automatically entered into a drawing for a $500 eton shopping spree.

fine shirt maker since 1928 Untitled-2 KIL_P033

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profile

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DON’T BE SQUARE

POCKET CIRCLES (AND BOWTIES) ARE THE NEW FOOLPROOF WAY TO “THE ACCESSORIES DRESS FASHIONABLY. MAKE THE SUIT,”

BY KAREN ALBERG SAYS DESIGNER GROSSMAN EDWARD ARMAH.

dward Armah is not your typical fashion designer. Born in Ghana (his dad was a civil servant, his mom had a clothing business), he studied economics and political science but dropped it all for sewing school. (Needless to say, his family was not thrilled…) He spent some time in London working on Jermyn Street where he mastered the art of English sartorial dressing (“it’s all about proportion”), then came to the States and studied tailoring. Working at an exclusive department store, Armah would get more compliments on the clothes he was wearing, particularly his colorful bowties and pocket squares, than on the clothes he was selling. So with a little help from his friends, he quit his day job and launched his own business, patenting an ingeniously engineered silk bowtie that can be worn four different ways (and is uniquely shaped for a fuller bow).

His bowties and pocket squares (that he first made in the basement of his house in New Jersey) were an instant hit, but Armah longed to create something different. On a whim, he once wore a lace doily in his pocket and got barraged with compliments. So he made up a few pocket “circles” and a new business was born. Today, he produces about 500 pocket circles a week, all made by artisans in NYC. Linen was hot this summer; for fall 2011, he’s using Italian silk and cashmere/wool, and fringed edges.

When he’s not traveling around the country to the finest stores in America, Armah loves spending time with his wife and 18-month-old son, Manasse. He’s also very involved with organizations like Big Brothers Big Sisters, where he teaches school-age kids to follow their dreams.

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A pocket circle adds instant cool and charisma to your sportcoat.

(And you can’t possibly fold it wrong!)

E EPST EIN I DESI ES GN PAR RTNE RT ERS ER RS S,, IN S INC NC.

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AUGUST 2012 WILL MARK THE 10-YEAR ANNIVERSARY OF AMERICA’S COOLEST DENIM. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

y mission 10 years ago was to make the best jeans in the world; that’s still our mission today,” asserts Agave founder Jeff Shafer. “We started with eight jeans; last year we did $11 million in sales, a record for us, just in men’s. My wife Lauren (who retired from the business 16 years ago to raise our son Jacob) is back as designer of women’s. We’ve become a true luxury label focused on USA-made quality product.”

How do you compete with bigger brands?

I knew the secret of making the best jeans was in the denim. I found the best denims from boutique mills in Japan. I focused on fabric and fit, partnering with a Japanese jeans manufacturer with production and laundry in L.A. that made jeans for Levi’s. They knew how to make a jean authentically and accurately. Agave stands for the highest quality jeans, made authentically in the USA. Our customers know this and appreciate our commitment.

How tough is it to work with your spouse?

I wouldn’t be a designer today if it weren’t for Lauren. Two companies ago we started working together: I was the owner and she was doing production. We hit tough times and had to let our designer go, and Lauren encouraged me to do the design myself; she actually taught me how. I found my passion thanks to Lauren and I’ve been trying to get her back to work with me for a long time. Last September, our son Eli started high school and she finally agreed.

Here’s why it works: We are equals; we trust each other and don’t compete with one another. We try not to discuss work at home.

Above: Jeff and Lauren Shafer Left: Items from Agave’s men’s and women’s fall collections

A DECADE OF AGAVE We have the same taste level but complementary skills. We share values, integrity and the same commitment to quality.

What’s the next big thing in denim for fall 2011?

The news is COLOR in bottoms, not just shades of indigo, black and gray, but brown, olive and camel. The other excitement is alternative weaves (twills, cords, etc.) in five-pocket models, washed down to a beautiful patina.

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Join us for Agave Denim + Tesla Motors presented by Kilgore Trout Saturday, 9.24.11 Details at kilgoretrout.com

It may be an oversight, so for now, 35 years of Kilgore Trout history keeps gathering dust in Wally’s office.

flashback

SHOULDN’T THIS STUFF BE IN THE SMITHSONIAN?

We know you need your clothes to last beautifully, so we take exquisite care of every piece of your wardrobe with

expert spot removal, hand finishing, personal inspection, and the most advanced eco-friendly cleaning system in Ohio.

Call London and relax...

We’ll take it from here.

800.832.1222 londoncleaners.com

With London Cleaners, valet pick-up and delivery service iisn’t’ an extra, iit’’s a kkeystone off our commitment i to superior service. No minimum order. No need to be home.

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TRENDS FOR MEN

A patterned sportcoat can be dressed up or down, and a double-breasted camel peacoat satisfies three trends in one.

FALL AND WINTER ARE JUST HEATING UP. BY WILLIAM KISSEL The runways of Milan, New York and Paris showcase fashion at its most extravagant.

Limited edition wool suits and belts made from the most exotic skins were paraded out to cause a stir—and it worked.

Thankfully there’s more to menswear than one-off pieces singularly designed with connoisseurs in mind.

This fall, men’s clothing and accessory makers have created some of their most varied and versatile collections to meet the everyday needs of the stylish modern man. Sharp suits and sportcoats in a rich array of autumnal colors and tweedy textures, sporty jackets made of weatherproof materials, big bold knits in solids and multi-hued variations, and even a resurgence of cashmere, corduroy and camel hair are wearable and on-trend. So whether you’re lounging around the house, dashing to the office, going for a weekend road trip, or preparing for that big formal affair, this fall’s offerings have you covered.

IMAGES COURTESY OF Z ZEGNA AND BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

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DUAL-PURPOSE Perfect for the office in

>> THIS SEASON, IT’S HIGH STYLE TO WEAR SOMETHING HIGH TECH. four-button models with soft shoulders and very straight lapels to serious, military-inspired high six- and even eightbutton, peak lapel jackets with strong shoulders and streamlined waists. Many of these shapes also carry over into outerwear and sportcoats.

SWEET PEAS The pea coat originated in the 18th century, when the durable jackets were used to clothe sailors and other military personnel who found the “pij” material (from the Dutch word pijjekker meaning twilled cloth) used to make them incredibly warm. Modern menswear makers could not have foreseen record cold temperatures across the globe when they developed their own versions of these hearty coats, but rest assured that the double-breasted toppers are ready to work double duty when necessary.

STRIKE A CORD Corduroy comes in many

sizes—from pinwale to extra wide wale— and this season top brands like Belvest, Kiton, Zegna, Loro Piana and Canali have employed the time-honored ribbed cloth in everything from jeans, jackets and sport shirts to outerwear, blazers, and even tailored clothing. Pinwale corduroy in a cotton/cashmere blend is Hugo Boss’s top dog this season, while cashmere kingpin Brunello Cucinelli prefers brushed corduroy for his quilted coats.

OUT OF THE DESERT Few items in a man’s wardrobe have ever been more luxurious than a camel top coat. Now that familiar topper—a staple of 1930s and 1940s Hollywood royalty—has been reinterpreted in everything from car coats and highwaisted trousers to sportcoats and even full camel hair (or colored) suits.

Designers as diverse as Hermès, Giorgio 39

IIMAGES COURTESY OF ZEGNA SPORT

Technically speaking... This wool and down jacket offers Thermore insulation and taped seams for waterproof performance.

classic pinstripes or subtle windowpane patterns, these same jackets come alive at night when paired with casual slacks and jeans, coincidentally the way most real men now define weekend wear. If you want to try something new, check out this year’s crop of double-breasted jackets, or DBs, as they’re known. Nearly every designer from Armani to Zegna is banking on double-breasted suits playing a starring role in men’s wardrobes, this fall and beyond. To that end, double-breasted jackets come in many variations, from low

Armani, Tom Ford and Ermenegildo Zegna offered just a preview of the full camel stampede to come this winter.

TECHNO? TECH YES! Remember Zegna’s imaginative I Jacket with its built-in touch control panel at the cuff, allowing one to interface with his iPod without touching it? Or how about Loro Piana’s innovative Storm System technology, which renders even the most opulent fabrics like superfine wool and cashmere water repellent? Those brilliant ideas have come full circle and spawned a whole generation of high tech, high style garments. Whether it’s a polyester and nylon jacket that actually breathes as the temperature rises, or a top coat designed with touch technology that lets you hide your electronics and control them remotely, this season, it’s high style to wear something high tech.

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1962 1941

Humphrey Bogart in The Maltese Falcon Detective Sam Spade: cunning sleuth, dapper dresser

Sean Connery in Dr. No A rare casual moment for 007, who dons a tuxedo more often than not. Whatever the occasion, his firearm (in this case, a Smith & Wesson Centennial Airweight) is never far from sight.

1974

Robert Redford in The Great Gatsby Ralph Lauren outfitted the entire cast for the movie adaptation of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s classic novel.

1959

Cary Grant in North by Northwest Proof positive that you can still look put together and polished while running from the bad guys.

70 YEARS OF CINEMATIC STYLE BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE

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1992

The cast of Reservoir Dogs These guys were ahead of the trend in slim suits and ties.

1980

Richard Gere in American Gigolo Armani became a household name after outfitting gigolo Julian in his signature suits.

2011

The cast of The Adjustment Bureau While overcoats and fedoras are classics, the style in multiples is downright intimidating. These men mean business!

2001

1987

Michael Douglas in Wall Street Fat ties—and fat wallets—epitomized the 1980s. The pleated pants popular then are just starting to reappear on runways, but haven’t yet made it mainstream.

George Clooney and Brad Pitt in Ocean’s Eleven Unbuttoned elegance as the big screen’s most charismatic criminals

SUITS CAN’T SAVE YOU NOW

THESE MEMORABLE MOVIE GOOFBALLS PROVE THAT YOU CAN DRESS THEM UP, BUT YOU CAN’T TAKE THEM OUT.

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1980

John Belushi and Dan Akroyd in The Blues Brothers

1994

Jim Carrey and Jeff Daniels in Dumb and Dumber

2007

Rowan Atkinson in Mr. Bean’s Holiday

life is but a

Fall 2011 has us dreaming about texture... lush knits, comfy cashmeres, velvety cords. So many soft ways to stay warm this fall...

PHOTOGRAPHY: Sergio

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Kurhajek |

STYLING:

Wendy McNett |

HAIR & MAKEUP:

Claire Bailey

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DREAM A LITTLE DREAM OF...

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STYLE MATTERS WHY

Making a good impression has never been more important.

Nor has it ever been easier!

Studies show that well-dressed men get higher paying jobs, enjoy better social status and are more attractive to the opposite sex.

Here are some simple tips on how to spruce up your look, because yes, style matters!

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simple updates for all your modes...

1. Dressy Casual

2. Sartorial

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3. Sporty Casual

WITH A FEW NEW BASICS, A WONDERFUL FOUNDATION (AND BETTER FIRST IMPRESSIONS) CAN BE BUILT.

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Dressy Casual

THE ESSENTIAL

SPORTCOAT THE MVP OF DRESSY CASUAL

No single item is more effective in transforming a man’s wardrobe than the sportcoat. It makes a man look “dressed,” while enhancing and concealing all the right body parts...

Plaid Classic A great neutral plaid adds instant style to a pair of jeans and moves gracefully from office to dinner.

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Color Statement A bolder plaid in rich fall colors adds excitement to solid basics and layers well with sweaters.

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Unconstructed A soft, unlined jacket is an indispensible basic this season.

It looks casually elegant and fits like a second skin!

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Collegiate Corduroy Toasty warm and versatile, corduroy has come back with a vengeance.

Soft Cashmere Unconstructed and elegant, it works with dress pants, jeans and everything in between.

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Sartorial

(NEW)

FITT

The New Slimmer Silhouette is here to stay

From a first interview to the corner office, one properly fitting neutral suit in a transitional fabric is an essential basic for the welldressed man.

The Intellectual Add a sweater to a windowpane wool suit for a super smart look.

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The Young Turk A well-cut dark suit can take you everywhere... and a great wool tie is an easy way to add some personality.

The Player A fun shirt (without a tie) with an open suit jacket is a refreshing upgrade to jeans.

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which SUITS you?

The Statesman Herringbone in warm fall tones plus a buttoned vest spells confidence.

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The Mogul Navy pinstripe suit, blue shirt, red tie, slim cut... need we say more?

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Sporting Event With Client A quilted, fitted, double-breasted jacket is as warm as it is flattering.

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Weekend Outing Cold, blustery days can be faced in style with an elegant update to the classic parka.

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Sporty Casual

RELAXED

STYLE Soccer Sidelines Throw a great scarf over a versatile pullover and be the best looking dad on the field.

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Whether it’s the weekend, or you just want it to feel that way.

Country Drive Go antiquing and lunching in style in a chocolate suede driving jacket, also perfect for everyday.

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KAPSALIANA VILLAGE

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GREEK REVIVAL

A

few steps behind the Kapsaliana Village there’s an ancient olive tree. It stands alone, determinedly rooted into a slight rise. From here, the view stretches across the largest olive grove on Crete, over a lush valley, to the sea. The scene is quiet and stunningly beautiful. Originally home to a thriving olive press worked by monks (the historic Arkadi monastery is nearby), the settlement was gradually abandoned after the press was closed in 1955. Today, under the brilliant tuteledge of architect Myron Toypoyannis, Kapsaliana Village has been rebuilt and restored and named a member of Historic Hotels of Greece. The age-old architecture is combined with modern comforts. Twelve guest houses, hewn from the original dwellings, are set on cobblestone alleys. The olive press is now a museum. The restaurant offers superb traditional Cretan food, and there’s a luxurious swimming pool. But most of all, there’s an atmosphere of tranquility and seclusion, as if time had paused to offer visitors a few moments of complete serenity.

World Scene Experience life’s little luxuries

. BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

COLD COMFORT

LAKE PLACID LODGE

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s cold weather approaches, ‘tis time for winter sports, a cozy new coat and a heart-warming cocktail. After ice skating, cross country skiing or snowshoeing at the Lake Placid Lodge in New York’s Adirondack mountains, guests keep out the chill with the hotel’s winter drink, the Barkeater. Bartender Lori Kudelski, who created the Barkeater, shares the recipe for this snug concoction.

Ingredients: 1 oz. vanilla vodka, 1 oz.

Frangelico, 1 oz. Amaretto, a splash of New York State maple syrup, and 4 oz. cream. Mix vodka, Amaretto, Frangelico and maple syrup in a shaker, then pour over ice in an old fashioned glass. Top with cream and garnish with a mint leaf. Cheers!

FA L L 2 0 1 1 coppley.com

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GILT TRIP

MONEY MUSEUM

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long with golf, rock climbing and fly fishing, guests of The Broadmoor Hotel at the foot of the Rockies in Colorado Springs can go for the gold. The sparkling festivities begin in a chauffeured Hummer (gold-flecked handcrafted chocolates and a bottle of Champagne are provided), which brings you to the Money Museum. Here, caterers serve dinner in the Bass Gallery, where over $20 million dollars worth of paper money and rare coins, including the most comprehensive collection of American gold coinage in existence, is stored. Between courses, the curator of the museum joins guests and passes around several million dollars in coins and notes. The Broadmoor’s wealthy revelry culminates at the hotel bar with chocolate sorbet decorated with 18K gold leaf, created by executive restaurant pastry chef Rémy Fünfrock, and director of wine Tim Baldwin opens a bottle of Moët & Chandon, Cuvée Dom Perignon Oenothèque, 1966.

COUNTRY CHIC

JAYNE THOMPSON

I

n the Kentucky countryside not far from Lexington, there’s a historic eightroom house. Originally named Bellevue, it was built in 1779 by Colonel John Bowman (the state’s first military governor) for his wife, Elizabeth. Now, it’s the home of Jayne Thompson Antiques, decorated with a lavish collection of English and Italian furniture and accessories. The shop is so popular with antiques aficionados, collectors often fly in (there’s a nearby private airport) to shop. For visitors with an urge to experience a more gracious time, Jayne Thompson will also arrange a dinner. Catered by Debbie Long of Dudley’s Restaurant in Lexington, the meal is prepared from seasonal ingredients and paired with appropriate wines. It’s served either in the home’s stunning dining room filled with antiques, or on the lawn, where the hostess places 18th-century Windsor chairs and a 17th-century oak farm table, set with English Ironstone china.

A STRETCH OF BEACH

A

DJORDJE ISHERE / CLICKHERE STUDIOS

mong the many trendy—and usually pricey—goings-on in Miami, there’s one very stylish event that’s amazingly inexpensive. For just $5, residents and visitors, serious yoga practitioners and first timers alike, can join certified instructors for “Beach Yoga at 3rd Street, Miami Beach.” This ultimate South Beach insider happening, which attracts vacationing Broadway stars and fashion editors, among others, has been meeting every day at sunrise and sunset for the past 12 years. Take water and a towel, and spend an hour reaching new horizons.

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Diesel Island´s Stupid Constitution is being written. Learn more at diesel.com

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wheels

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BEAUTIFUL CARS ARE NOT JUST TRANSPORTATION, BUT ROLLING WORKS OF ART.

CAUTION: MAY INSPIRE SERIOUS GARAGE ENVY BY DAVID ROSE

VINTAGE ROAD SHOW

It all started early one Saturday, when my best friend showed up at my house driving his uncle’s 1959 Austin Healy Sprite. He parked it outside my bedroom window and blasted its air horn, prompting me to vault three feet out of bed.

We spent the day driving around Boston in the coolest car I had ever been in, and I promised myself right then that when I was old enough to drive, I would buy a British sports car. The day came shortly after my sixteenth birthday, and nothing was the same again for me. I now have a humble collection of these wonderful cars and drive them as

often as possible.

There are many extraordinary automobile museums around the world, but also numerous private collectors whose magnificent cars are worth fortunes. Perhaps they also had friends who introduced them to the world of classic cars.

Or it may have simply been the majesty of the machines that inspired them to covet and collect these amazing vehicles.

One such man is Richard Myers, a former math teacher turned European car dealer who is now retired and lives in New Jersey and Rhode Island. A collector of vintage cars for over 40 years, his 38 classics include some very rare

60

machines. Like me, his first was an MGA that he bought while in college. Back then British sports cars were relatively new to the area where he lived, so he soon learned how to do mechanical repairs on his own. He has always considered these beautiful cars not just transportation, but rolling works of art.

After college, he bought and restored a Jaguar, followed by Rolls Royces and Bentleys, which he fixed up and sold for profit.

After a while he realized that he no longer wanted to sell the cars he restored, and his classic car collection was born. It was the 1970s, and classic car values were nothing like they are today: he was able to

The 1953 Allard J2X

Our town has some great local merchants and professional resources, and here are a few favorites. When you visit, tell them Kilgore Trout sent you.

What Kilgore Trout is to finely tailored clothing, BLOCK BROS. AT HOME is to well-crafted European bed and bath linens. Paul and Carolyne have been in town even longer than we have, and offer world class brands ranging from Yves DeLorme and Sferra to Scandia Down, plus extraordinary gifts and home accessories.

30495 PINETREE RD AT LANDER CIRCLE, 216.360.8600, BLOCKBROSATHOME.COM

So often, we see a great cut or color, and we ask our customer “Who does your hair?” And many times, the answer is “Studio MZ, of course.”

STUDIO MZ loves their clients, and has created a welcoming, comforting, stylish destination salon offering a complete range of services for women and men—and it’s just up the street.

STUDIO MZ SALON, 27629 CHAGRIN BOULEVARD, 216.464.3910, STUDIOMZ.NET

Award-winning interiors for people who seek individuality are the hallmark of JOHN FLORIANKONCAR. John offers complete residential transformations, customized renovations and interior decoration, tailored as finely as a bespoke suit and personal to the lives of the owners, all designed with confidence, elegance and comfort. As John is fond of saying, “appropriateness is all.”

JOHN KONCAR INTERIORS, 216.831.1105, BROWSE HIS PORTFOLIO AT JOHNKONCAR.COM

“There are so many cute shoes in the world; why aren’t there more cute shoe stores?” is what shoe-lover Amy Puchowicz once thought. With two locations now, AMY’S SHOES carries a wide variety of special styles for distinctive tastes, while offering superior customer service.

TWO LOCATIONS: ETON CHAGRIN BOULEVARD, 216.292.0120, AMYSSHOES.COM OLD RIVER SHOPPING AREA, 19134 OLD DETROIT RD, ROCKY RIVER, 440.409.0120

PARK OPTICIANS is Ohio’s premier luxury optical boutique with over 60 years of experience and hundreds of brands (including Tag Heuer, shown). You’re sure to find the best in experienced optical professionals and stylish eyewear options to complement your entire wardrobe.

PARK OPTICIANS, 30749 PINETREE RD AT AT LANDER CIRCLE, 216.360.9955, PARKOPTICIANS.NET

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resources

CELEBRATE OUR INDEPENDENTS

From the most significant international artists of the 20th and 21st centuries to artists gaining world-wide recognition, CONTESSA GALLERY exhibits unique, highly sought after, museumquality artwork. Picasso, Warhol, Close and Drebin are among the notables on view or in their extensive inventory of original paintings, works on paper, sculpture and photography.

CONTESSA GALLERY AT LEGACY VILLAGE, 216.382.7800, CONTESSAGALLERY.COM

When you seek handmade in America, look for Simon Pearce glass and pottery at MULHOLLAND AND SACHS. Open seven days weekly, and ready to ship gifts for all occasions worldwide. If you seek a baby gift or something special for a 50th anniversary, Mulholland and Sachs has it, or perhaps some jewelry to take home just for yourself!

Bridal Registry and Corporate Gifts also available.

MULHOLLAND AND SACHS, ETON CHAGRIN BLVD., 216.831.4444, MULHOLLANDSACHS.COM

No matter your preference in architecture style, location or price, CICI RILEY is the one to call! She offers discreet professional service of the highest order, an unwavering attention to detail, and with the backing of Howard Hanna, unparalleled customized marketing programs and the highest level of industry services with hands-on attention to each client’s unique and individual needs.

CICI RILEY, CRS, REALT L OR/BROKER, HOWARD HANNA, 216.831.9310, CICIRILEY.COM

NEIL LEESON has a passion for designing extraordinary weddings and unique events for clients throughout northeast Ohio, and in destination cities including Miami, San Juan and Naples. Neil’s team coordinates gorgeous floral design with linens, lighting, draping, furniture, and accessories to create a complete client-inspired vision and a memorable one-of-a-kind occasion.

NEIL LEESON DECOR FLORAL, 330.535.0220, VIEW HIS PORTFOLIO AT NEILLEESON.COM

Discover your dream destination for professional makeup application, brow sculpting, makeup lessons, specialized facial treatments with results, and a boutique filled with fabulous products for pampering. Trust the professional artists at THE POWDER ROOM for flawless bridal makeup, too. They’ll host your special day, or have their team come to you!

INSIDE ETON CHAGRIN BOULEVARD, 216.831.7666, THEPOWDERROOMBOUTIQUE.COM

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acquire some amazing vehicles, which in today’s market would be untouchable. nd he’s still in the market. “I would love to find a perfect Ferrari Dino and a Porsche 356 Speedster,” Meyers confides. “Both cars would have to be black: I base my color sense on the design of the car and those two cars say ‘black’ to me... I just bought two 550 Marinello Ferraris, and I couldn’t go with the traditional red or yellow people associate with Ferraris; one is silver and the other titanium.”

All of Myers’ cars are drivable, and drive them he does. His current collection, which includes an Aston Martin, a 1954 Corvette and a 289 Cobra, is essentially a microcosm of sports car history.

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OTHER COVETABLE COLLECTIONS • When Ken Lingenfelter, whose father was a GM executive, was growing up, stylish high performance automobiles were a way of life. He bought his first Corvette in 1977 and has since assembled a magnificent collection of 150 Corvettes and other Detroit muscle cars, as well as select exotics from around the world.

• The Simeone Foundation Museum outside of Philadelphia, although now open to the public, began as a private collection assembled by neurosurgeon Dr. Fred Simeone. This collection centers on racing cars from around the world and is considered one of the best in the country.

• In summer, cream-of-the-crop classic cars gather at Concours d’Elegance events around the world.

In the U.S., Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance is thought to be the best. The Greenwich, CT event is considered the best on the East Coast.

T H E

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CLOSET THERAPY

SOMETIMES, THE ANSWERS TO LIFE’S QUESTIONS AREN’T IN YOUR BRAIN. THEY’RE IN YOUR CLOSET. BY JAMES RARUS A former boss, the president of a luxury apparel firm, used to scream at me: “You know what your problem is? You think too

much! Just sell!” Today, I work for myself. I play menswear psychologist and at a psychologist’s rate, though I’m not a doctor.

Analyze this: Twice yearly, menswear merchants fill their shops with thoughtfully selected apparel, transforming their stores into virtual treasure troves of luxury. A man’s closet should be a similar treasure trove, the clothes he pulls out each morning helping to determine if people will buy into his personality, business acumen, credibility, or whatever he’s selling.

I recently worked with a client in his cedar paneled closet. His trousers, dress shirts and blazers hung evenly spaced on cedar hangers. His shoes rested in perfect rows, his belts and ties were arranged meticulously.

I thought about this client, a bachelor with a high finance job: trim physique, handsome features, great hair, beautiful clothes. But then a flash: he owned no sweaters!

Mother Nature took the time to create this perfect specimen, almost begging to be wrapped in luxurious fabrics, and not one cashmere knit!

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I looked around his spectacular apartment with its expansive views of Central Park and envisioned the women he’d soon date thanks to this newly conceived wardrobe. A breakthrough moment, said my inner Freud.

Want your own breakthrough? Think of your favorite store as your closet; then think of your wardrobe as a jazz song with layered textures, colors, tones and dimensions to help showcase your own unique qualities.

Soon after shrinking my client’s head with this music metaphor, he became the proud owner of a dozen twoand four-ply cashmere knits and a few merinos in masculine shades both deep and pale. His wardrobe is now balanced with casually elegant cardigans, turtlenecks, V-necks and crews; his tailored clothing pieces now double as sportswear. His love life has improved, too: wearing an outfit of his own creation featuring a knit cardigan, he recently met the woman of his dreams.

When people ask me what I do for a living, I often say, “I alter men’s perceptions of their closets so that when they get dressed each day, they’re energized and inspired.” To which they usually respond, “You think too much! But let me ask you a question. Can I wear…?”

Always looking out for number one.

(That’s you,by the way)

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