Forum The Substance of Style/Fall 2010
MEN ON THE GO!
COLD COMFORT FROM CLEVELAND WINTERS THE ROCK & ROLL EVENT
The magazine of
Kilgore Trout KILGORETROUT.COM
A N E N D U R I N G PAS S I O N F O R FAB R I C A N D I N N OVAT I O N S I N C E 1910
welcome
LOVE, RITES OF PASSAGE, AND LIFE'S MEMORABLE MOMENTS DON'T CARE TOO MUCH ABOUT THE ECONOMY OR FREE AGENCY.
3+272 /8,6 $/9$5(=
CONFESSIONS OF A SHOPKEEPER
Clevelanders are some of the most passionate people on earth. And I don't just mean garden variety "flowers and chocolates" passion. We share an enduring passion for our city, an abiding passion for our institutions, and bigger still, an obsessive romance with our sports teams. We've suffered more than our share of defeat (sometimes grabbed from the jaws of victory), a few painful breakups, and economic struggles—yet we remain committed and we don't walk away. Now that we've all witnessed the decision, burned a few jerseys, and have had a little time to put things into perspective, we'll rebound to being passionate about what we have and what's still to come. What matters is what's here—not what walked away. We're thankful to be part of the Cleveland community, and we're grateful to you for continuing to make Kilgore Trout a part of your life's memorable moments. After all, weddings, bar and bat mitzvahs, and other rites of passage don't care much about the economy, or about free agency for that matter. Love continues to bloom, young men (and women) continue to be called to read the Torah, and confirmations and graduations arrive as sure as the seasons. As autumn knocks and holidays are on the horizon, we'll anticipate helping you pick the perfect suit for the parties, the cocktail dress that'll knock 'em off their feet, and we'll be sure to remind you to tune up your tux for New Year's Eve. Maybe we'll help a few of you send your best and brightest off to their first jobs—appropriately attired, of course. Your special occasions are our special occasions, and we thank you for including us in the moments that matter. We all know that when we look back, we won't recall where the Dow closed. Instead, we'll remember the feeling of watching our children become adults, the intimate dinners shared with family and friends, and the special events that we cared enough to get dressed up for. And for being a part of that, we're grateful. One of these days, the stars may align for Dan Gilbert, Mike Holmgren, and the Dolans, too. We're all witnesses to an awakening vitality in our region, and exciting things are afoot. Can a championship be far behind? This season let's toast to living with passion, and to the memorable events— past, present and future. We look forward to seeing you soon! Wally Naymon, shopkeeper
28601 Chagrin Blvd. Cleveland, OH 44122 216-831-0488 www.kilgoretrout.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian Sprague PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Peg Eadie
FEATURES 1 28 30 32 48 50 54
Welcome Letter Janet Macoska Rocks Our World Furnishings: Haute Under the Collar Clothing: Tailored to Perfection Style: Past Perfect Dress: Nirvana Through Clothing Heroes: Doolittle Raiders
FASHION 4 8 10 16 18 34 42
His Must Haves Footwear: To Boot or Not to Boot Her Must Haves Profile: Eton Outerwear: Cold Comfort Men on the Go! Get More Bang for Your Buck
DEPARTMENTS 14 24 52 56 58 62 64
Ask Forum CEO Style: Maximilian Riedel In Store Events Humor: George Clooney Stole My Haircut Cooking: A Recipe for Romance Spirits: Drinkology End Page: In the Jeans
DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
Hugh K. Stanton BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO
Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Christine Sullivan APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA Fashion Forum Magazine is published in 14 regional editions for member stores of the Apparel Forum Copyright 2010. Published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 13, Issue 2. Printed In The U.S.A.
Robert Talbott Carmel zip mock wool bouclĂŠ sweater available in four colors ($245) with multicolor plaid cotton sport shirt ($195) Etro subtle navy plaid pure wool sportcoat ($1,289) with cotton multicolor shirt ($349) Scarves from Dunlap Weavers ($129-$165) and Lochcarron of Scotland ($79-$169)
creative director | Christopher Hixson
photography | Andrew McAllister
styling | Dennis Marold
HIS MUST HAVES fall & winter
Truzzi painted and overdyed pure cotton sport shirt ($319) Boglioli knitted wool jacket in charcoal and oxblood check ($1,389)
Frye Boot Company iconic ring boot ($258) Robert Comstock pure cashmere sweater ($350) and destroyed bleached jean ($195) Orciani and Leather Island leather belts ($165-$218)
Mastai Ferretti pure cotton dress shirts ($135) Sand tartan plaid corduroy “soft” jacket ($689) Lenor Romano merino wool overdye washed V-neck sweaters ($155) BD Baggies “modern fit” washed cotton sport shirts ($98-$125)
footwear
FOR FALL, DON’T MISS THE BOOT, AND CHECK OUT ALL THE SEASON’S SHOES AT OUR TRUNK EVENTS.
TO BOOT OR NOT TO BOOT This season, that is the question. By J.B. Dunn
FRYE BOOT CO.
DONALD J. PLINER
DONALD J. PLINER
FRYE BOOT CO.
TO BOOT NEW YORK
FRYE BOOT CO.
Walking down 5th Avenue recently it was impossible not to notice all the women wearing boots. Boots with jeans, boots with dresses, boots with skirts. Boots with everything! A year ago it was the gladiator sandal. This spring it was boots. Women’s fashion typically trends a season ahead of men’s. This fall it’s the men’s turn. Every footwear vendor we visited at market had sprouted a new collection of boots. If you’re not in boots this fall, you’re missing the boat. If you’re looking for boots this fall, Kilgore Trout will not let you down. As a matter of fact, we’ll have a few surprises in store! First, we have three great trunk shows planned. On September 11th we’ll have To Boot New York. Look for a broader collection from To Boot this fall as they continue to excel in the price/value category. They offer tremendous style in diverse categories at great prices. Next, on September 25th join us for Donald J. Pliner. This event is one of our best trunk shows of the season. If you’re looking for something a little off the beaten track, this trunk show is for you, with hip styles from New York to Miami. Check it out. And finally for the coup de grâce, we bring you the Frye Boot Company and Belstaff in what’s going to be a very fresh and exciting show. Flat out—everybody should have a new pair of Frye boots this fall! From the iconic Ring Boot we all wore as kids to the fresh new styles of today, you’ve got to see Frye. Belstaff (new to Kilgore Trout this season) brings classic motorcycle inspired jackets and footwear. You’ve admired them before although you may not have realized it. In many of the most recent blockbuster action films, these coats and shoes were the wardrobe of choice for the stars. From classic to cool, from the real McCoy to just dressed for style, the Belstaff collection is unbelievable. All of these new resources will join the perennial bests: John Varvatos, Salvatore Ferragamo and Gravati. This fall is a footwear season not to miss. Come check it out!
DON’T MISS THESE FOOTWEAR TRUNK SHOW SATURDAYS: SEPTEMBER 11 TO BOOT NEW YORK SEPTEMBER 25 DONALD J. PLINER & W.KLEINBERG OCTOBER 09 FRYE BOOT & LEATHER ISLAND
Jarbo viscose ruffles top ($240) Gillian Julius silver woven bracelet ($287) Cinzia Rocca double breasted wool paid jacket ($875) MZ Wallace nylon leopard print purse ($425)
creative director | Christopher Hixson
photography | Andrew McAllister
styling | Dennis Marold | Gina DiTurno
HER MUST HAVES fall & winter
B. May leather tote in tribal print ($595) Audrey Talbott wool jacket ($495) and tapestry skirt with zipper back ($295)
Arnold Zimberg crinkled plaid shirt ($195) Elizabeth & James storm blue “Sunday jacket� ($535) worn with Agave Delgado skinny jean ($218) White + Warren leopard print cashmere cardigan ($310) Moncler luxury down with detachable hood jacket ($900)
Catherine Malandrino asymetrical hem dress ($475) Catherine Malandrino shredded silk chiffon top ($325) and leather skirt ($575) Linea Pelle leather belt ($173)
ASKFORUM Q:
ZEGNA
I haven’t shopped in a few seasons and my old clothes are looking dated. How do I start rebuilding my wardrobe?
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We’ve broken it down into eleven essentials, in order of importance. Essential #1: The perfect blazer or unconstructed sportcoat. This is a must for travel (when pockets are critical) and can be dressed up for work (add a cool tie or pocket square) or down to wear with jeans (add an open-collar shirt, knit top or T-shirt). If you’re buying just one, go with a solid color or a very subtle pattern. Essential #2: The dark dressy suit. Come into the store and we’ll help you find one that works for both your build and your budget. You’ll notice that the newer suit styles are more fitted—but also more comfortable—than the suits in your closet. The secret is both the fabric and the construction; try one on and we promise you’ll be happy. Essential #3: Perfect-fitting flat-front pants in lightweight wool, corduroy or cotton. Don’t be afraid of color, especially in casual five-pocket models. Essential #4: Great jeans! These should be slim but not tight in a dark washed denim. If you’re buying just one pair, skip the rips and abrasions in favor of a more classic style that will take you anywhere. Essential #5: A great pair of casual shoes or boots. (Remember that women always notice shoes first!) Essential #6: Dress shoes: either brown leather or chocolate suede. Brown shoes go with everything except a tuxedo and actually complement gray and navy suits better than black shoes. Essential #7: A sumptuous cashmere sweater in your favorite color. Try matching your eyes or ask a woman what looks best on you. Essential #8: Some new shirts and ties. Both are slimmer than they used to be: tie widths have narrowed from three and three quarter inches to three and a half (or less); shirts are no longer loose or tent-like. Add color and pattern to brighten your outlook! Essential #9: Two belts: one for suits, one to wear with jeans. Essential #10: An oblong scarf that can be doubled with the ends pulled through the loop for a very European look, indoors or out. Essential #11: Statement accessories like a great leather bag, distinctive eyewear and cool (non-serious) socks. Remember: it’s the little things that make the big impressions. And also remember our favorite quote from Hardy Amies: “A man should look like he’s chosen his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care, and then forgotten all about them.”
A Fitting Experience
profile
KILLER SHIRTS WARNING: ETON SHIRTS CAN BE HIGHLY ADDICTIVE. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
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here’s no question that a fabulous shirt can make or break the outfit. And while there’s no shortage of fabulous shirts in the men’s market these days, few are as remarkable as Eton, an 82-year-old Swedish company that uses 45 components and 49 steps to construct each of its very special garments. “Innovation means throwing caution to the wind,” asserts Eton’s creative director Sebastian Dollinger, whose inspiration comes from music, movies and books. “We don’t follow fashion trends, we create our own using the world’s longest staple cotton, the best mills in France and Italy, and the most advanced finishing techniques in Switzerland (which adds 35 steps to the process but is essential for durability, sustainability and luster.)” All shirts are produced in Eton’s own factories in Sweden. Adds U.S. sales director Erik Wilkinson, “We spin and weave everything on two-ply: The weaving is a high torsion method and the finishing takes more than three weeks using an organic (not ammonia-based) wash. The process makes the cloth more resilient with a softer hand and better performance. Plus we top-fuse the collars and cuffs so the shirts stay very clean and crisp.” While the technical details are impressive, more impressive is the fit. Whether classic, contemporary or slim, these shirts are individually graded top to bottom so the collar size is in proportion to all other dimensions (sleeve width, body width, shoulders). Other details include double button cuffs to accommodate oversized watches (also convertible to French cuffs); high resin, ergonomic mother-of-pearl buttons; and signature red ribbon trim. Most important: Eton’s colors and patterns are exclusive, expressive and always exceptional. Wilkinson points out that fresh product is shipped ten times a year rather than just two, so there’s always new excitement in the store. So check out our latest shirts from Eton: You will be amazed at how great you’ll look.
Cold Comfort outerwear for every lake effect moment
From great values for exceptional basics, to extraordinary performance fabrics like Allegri’s new Rain Cashmere, this season’s outerwear collection offers everything you need to survive another northeast Ohio winter in comfort and style.
Allegri Rain Cashmere*
*Rain Cashmere is a luxurious 100% cashmere fabric with water repellent performance, available only from Allegri. The waterproofing treatment is not a coating, and is achieved by dipping the thread in Teflon before the fabric is even created, allowing the fabric to keep its softness and breathable properties. $995 to $1,595.
creative director...Christopher Hixson clothing photography...Andrew McAllister styling...Dennis Marold
Mason’s reversible Puffer ($395) | Dunlap Weavers handwoven cashmere scarf
Kilgore Trout coat with “storm system” fabric by Loro Piana ($598) 30 gauge fine cashmere turtleneck ($329) | Handwoven scarf by Dunlap Weavers
Matte finish technical jacket with zip inset by Moncler ($1,495)
Belstaff waxy cotton military-inspired jacket ($595)
the language of winter. cashmere. corduroy.
Lochcarron crinkle neckwear scarves ($79)
Zanone pure wool knit blouson ($598)
Kilgore Trout’s famous cashmere sweatshirt in many new shades of the season ($275)
Gardeur cotton corduroy 5-pocket jeans with a touch of stretch for comfort ($195)
performance fabrics. down. wool. leather.
Kilgore Trout “ID� jacket with zip inset and nappa leather undercollar ($595)
Tailor Vintage reversibles: cotton hoodie ($128) cotton overdyed trouser ($148)
Outside In or Inside Out
Robert Comstock saddle-stitched overshirt ($295) Robert Comstock butter soft Norwegian elk chamois jacket ($1,950)
another northeast ohio winter will arrive soon. are you ready? OUTERWEAR TRUNK EVENTS: SEPTEMBER 25 ALLEGRI OCTOBER 09 BELSTAFF
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CEO style
“PEOPLE WHO HAVE AN EYE FOR [STYLE] ARE LIKELY PEOPLE WHO RUN DETAIL-ORIENTED BUSINESSES.”
GLASS HOUSE
Riedel scion and CEO Maximilian Riedel loves hard work and high fashion. By Robert Haynes Peterson At 33, Maximilian Riedel, CEO of Riedel Crystal of North America, a division of Riedel Glas Austria, is in an enviable position: young enough to drive the motorcycles and Ferraris he collects, old enough to know that his good fortune comes down through 11 generations of hard-working craftsmen. Riedel coowns the iconic glassware company with his father Georg, which in the past decade has come to dominate the wine and spirits glassware market, particularly in the realm of glasses designed for specific wines, now a $330 million-per-year business. While recent essays in
Gourmet and Wine Spectator have challenged the Riedel-supported notion that unique glass shapes (or prices) actually enhance specific wines and their impact on the tongue, there is no doubt that the glassware is beautiful, and a restaurant table set with three or four distinctively contoured wine glasses is
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IMAGE COURTESY RIEDEL CRYSTAL OF NORTH AMERICA
“Since I produce handmade products myself, I enjoy quality, handmade clothing.”
THINK LESS. STUPID MORE.
BE STUPID
certain to impress increasingly discerning customers. Maximilian Riedel—who delivers his homilies with both an Austrian austerity and an American sense of humor—is also a passionate watch collector, loves his tailored clothing and handmade shoes, and appreciates it all from the perspective of a self-proclaimed micromanager who helps craft his own fine product. We caught up with Riedel as he was announcing the winner of this year’s Nachtmann Design prize at the Pratt Institute in New York.
How did you get to your current role in the family business? My sister and I grew up in Austria, with our parents both working. When I was 11, we were sent to Canada for summer camp. It taught me independence and a second language. At 12, my father told me, “If you’re not interested in school, you should think about getting a job.” I took an internship in the glass factory and learned my lesson: I wanted to stay in school. I began working officially for the company in 1997, while attending business school. I had the option to move to the U.S. (which was a small operation for us 10 years ago), or Japan. I chose the U.S., where anything is possible, and I saw potential. At the time our company was based in Long Island, which I felt was not the right location. We decided to move to Manhattan. We also saw how the restaurant environment was growing, so we launched a restaurant product range. The business has grown substantially and the U.S. is now our number-one market. I was appointed CEO in 2004.
You and your father co-own the business, and seem to be very hands-on. My father is one of those co-workers you can trust and rely on. We have about 2,000 employees worldwide, but we’re involved in every big decision-making process in every market. My father is spending a lot of time in India right now, because we are launching independent daughter companies in China and India in the next couple of years.
A micromanaging family might be challenging for some employees, no? I think it is a challenge for the upper management. They do need to understand this is a family business, which not everyone is made for. On the plus side, you get a decision from us within 24 hours. We jump on opportunities right away—there’s no committee or board that needs to deliberate. Of course, decisions can be made in the wrong way, but in the long run, it’s worked for us.
Yet you’re more than just the “Money Guys.” Exactly. We’re not just businessmen in suits and ties, we’re also designers. Everything you see in the Riedel collection has been first created in our heads. That’s something to be proud of. We see these glasses as instruments, not so much objects. In that respect we’re more akin to the Bauhaus school of architecture, where form and function are equally important. This makes us unique compared to competitors who hire designers to make something simply to be pretty.
Speaking of “suits and ties,” you’re always dressed to the nines, it seems. Since I produce handmade products myself, I enjoy quality, hand-
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made clothing. My grandfather and father had everything tailored: Our tailor is in Munich, we get shirts from a tailor in Venice, and there’s a nice shoe maker in Vienna. Today I’m wearing a blue lizard shoe which I helped design. The way people dress is an indication of how they do business; people who have an eye for these things are likely people who run detailoriented businesses like ours. But [style] doesn’t always translate: I wear the most beautiful Hermès pocket square, which I love. I was at a nightclub for a work event, and this man said, “My God, how can you wear this, isn’t it out of fashion?” I was the only one in a suit and pocket square at 11 p.m., and this man thought badly of me because I wasn’t in an untucked shirt and loafers. But I was working; when I’m casual, it’s a different story.
So clothes do make the person? It’s interesting how the younger generation approaches this. Sure, they have great business ideas, but if you look at the industrial icons, how they presented themselves to the public was as important as their ideas. I believe strongly the suit will come back as a business statement. With a suit, you never overdress, you never underdress. What’s more, it makes good business sense. Jeans nowadays can go for $400 or more. They go in and out of fashion in a year. A suit can last a lifetime. Casual fashion can be as expensive as a tailored suit, and people don’t realize it. This is my point of view, anyway. Whether it sounds old fashioned or not, it has served me well.
David Bowie, 1983
Sting, 1980 Michael Jackson, 1988
Defying convention. DeďŹ ning fashion. Photographing history.
JANET MACOSKA ROCKS OUR WORLD
Debbie Harry, 1978 Annie Lennox, 1984
By Christopher Hixson
When Sonny and Cher posed for a 12-year-old Clevelander with a camera, they didn't realize the snap of that flash was the photographic equivalent of the shot from a starting pistol for the mop-top preteen behind the lens. From the age of eight, Janet Macoska wanted nothing more than to get close to rock and roll. So when WKYC radio gave in to her relentless requests to come to the station, she found herself answering fan mail in exchange for free records. And on that 1966 day, she was in the right place at precisely the right time—looking through the lens of a Kodak Duaflex at the Billboard chart toppers. That shot became her first published photo—in a 1967 issue of Teen Screen magazine. Flash forward to a four decade career during which Janet has produced iconic images of rock's biggest names: Freddie Mercury, Madonna, Michael Jackson, Tina Turner, Bruce Springsteen, Lou Reed. Macoska's photographs, many shot in Cleveland, reflect our area's unique place in music history. And for us, they also notably capture the fashion that defined (and continues to define) our generation. In 2004, the Rock Hall presented a retrospective exhibition of her work, and in 2008, Jews Rock: A Celebration of Rock and Roll's Jewish Heritage, a coffee table book of her photography, was published by ArtVision. From that first snapshot in 1966 to images in Rolling Stone, People, Us, Vogue, and The New York Times, Janet Macoska aimed her camera toward the stage and wound up shooting stars.
SATURDAY OCTOBER 9TH
THE ROCK AND ROLL EVENT WITH JANET MACOSKA
MENS STORE EVENTS WITH FRYE BOOT, BELSTAFF, LEATHER ISLAND, AND MORE Janet Macoska's images will be on view and available for purchase at Kilgore Trout with a portion benefitting Janet's favorite Rock Hall initiative: Toddler Rock, a music education program for underserved pre-schoolers, their parents, caregivers and teachers.
PHOTO: JEAN SCHNELL
The First Photo: Sonny and Cher, 1966
ALL IMAGES COPYRIGHT JANET MACOSKA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
Devo, 1978
HAUTE UNDER THE COLLAR The proper collar and knot can greatly improve your look. By William Kissel
Shirt makers often brag about the thread count of their fine cotton fabrics, the single-needle stitching at the seams, the split-shouldered yokes, even the distinctive crow’s foot stitching used to fasten the mother-of-pearl buttons. But before you get bogged down by myriad styling, color and pattern options, make sure that your shirt collar and tie knot are the proper match for your face. “Think of your face as a portrait and your shirt collar as its frame,” offers menswear designer and author Alan Flusser, who approached the subject of proper shirt selection in his book Style and the Man. “The collar’s height on your neck as well as the length and spread of its points should complement the shape and size of your face,” he explains, noting that most men look their best when they understand which collars enhance their features. It doesn’t require a degree in shirt science to comprehend the principles of picking the proper collar. Think of your collar and necktie as a counterbalance to the dimensions of
JEFFREY APOIAN
furnishings
MOST MEN LOOK THEIR BEST WHEN THEY UNDERSTAND WHICH COLLARS ENHANCE THEIR FEATURES.
your face and thickness of your neck. A long and narrow face, for instance, will look fuller peeking out of a high-collared shirt with a mod-
erate spread collar and fuller tie knot, such as a Windsor, Shelby or half-Windsor. In contrast, a broad face and thick neck can be made to
look leaner and longer simply by sporting a medium collar shirt and thinner knot, especially when both rest just below the collarbone.
These simple rules will help guide you to sartorial success: Spread or Cutaway Spread collar shirts (and the slightly shorter, wider cutaway collar for more formal occasions) are designed to be worn with neckwear featuring a full or half-Windsor knot, a relatively wide knot once favored by (and named for) Edward VIII, the late Duke of Windsor. Designed to complement a long, narrow face, these collars are being featured as a fashion trend this season, often shown with skinny ties.
Straight or Long-Point Among the oldest and most universally accepted, the exaggerated straight-point collar, sometimes called a long-point, is generally three inches or longer and most effective at making a round, broad, or oval-shaped face appear more angular. Ideal for heavyset or athletic men in need of a slight slimming effect (or soft-chinned men craving a strong line under the jaw), this versatile collar can have a similar elongating effect on men with a shorter stance. Because of the narrow opening between the collar points, a classic four-inhand neckwear knot with its flattering conical form achieves the perfect balance.
Tab or Pinned More casual than a classic straight-point collar, the tab or pin-collared shirt is primarily intended for use with a blazer or sport coat. Its distinctive feature is a buttoning bridge between the two wings—or eyelets on the wings used with a tie bar—to form a snug fit around a small, neat, four-in-hand knot. Because the bridge forces the collar higher up and the knot outward on the neck, this is an ideal combination for those looking to camouflage a long neck.
Button-down Originally worn by 19th century English polo players to keep their shirt collars from flapping during play, button-down collared shirts became an Ivy League tradition after they were adopted in the early 1900s by the late John Brooks of Brooks Brothers. A sporty alternative to the straight-point, the button-down (worn buttoned or unbuttoned depending on the degree of casualness) is best suited to a patterned four-in-hand knotted necktie. New button-down collars are larger with a slight roll.
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clothing
TAILORED TO PERFECTION
KNOWING HOW WELL YOUR SUIT IS MADE IS AS SIMPLE AS KNOWING WHAT TO LOOK FOR. BY WILLIAM KISSEL
o celebrate its centennial year, Ermenegildo Zegna suits this fall are cut with a soft, slightly-roped shoulder to complement the jacket’s nipped-in waist and trimmer lapel, a look that characterized the suits of the brand’s namesake and founder back in 1910. Brioni is also offering a new shape, called the Senato, which is cut longer and leaner than the classic silhouette for which the suit maker is known. Meanwhile, the gentleman who likes Kiton’s sculpted Neapolitan clothing will appreciate the seemingly unconstructed shoul-
ders and natural chest line found in its newest two-button models. Every suit maker from Armani to Zegna has its own sartorial point of view this season. However, the subtle tailoring nuances that make one suit better than another are not quite as easy to discern. Nothing says you’re ready to do business like a suit. And if you’ve bought one in the last decade, you know that shoulder pads come and go, lapels vary from narrow to wide, and vents change from center to side and back again, seemingly on the whim of some designer’s mood. While such
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stylistic details can alert you to the latest trends, they have little to do with how well a suit is made. Like the plumbing and electrical components camouflaged behind the drywall in your home, much of a suit’s construction is concealed behind beautiful interior Bemberg silk linings. Opening the seams to see what’s inside is simply not an option and, thankfully, not really necessary. That’s because many of the hallmarks of fine suit making are visible right there on the surface. That is, if you know where to look. The easiest way to recognize the
• Hand-stitched horsehair canvas linings (not fused or glued canvas) inside the chest and waist help retain the jacket’s shape. Pinch the jacket at the bottom front. If you can feel three layers of fabric—the cloth, the lining and the floating canvas inner lining—it’s the real deal. • A little extra fabric on the trouser inseams and interior seat, as well as a split waistband, make the garment easier to alter. • Interior sleeves that are hand stitched to the shoulders allow for complete ease of movement. • A boutonniere stay under the lapel is a useful detail found only in the finest suits. • Buttons inside trouser cuffs make it easier to “get the lint out.” • Hand pick-stitched lapels. Look for slightly uneven stitching as the hallmark of human hands. • Interior pockets sewn into the actual jacket fabric, not the lining, retain the jacket’s clean aesthetic. • A knot threaded between the button and the jacket makes fastening easier. Sometimes all it takes to recognize quality is a quick peek at the label. Prestige brands often operate their own factories and closely oversee production. By comparison, many designers or no-name suit makers rely on their well-known names or a too-good-to-believe price tag. There are plenty of exceptions, so ask your salesperson to be sure. 33
KITON
CORNELIANI
CORNELIANI
TELLTALE SIGNS OF QUALITY INCLUDE:
CORNELIANI
quality of a suit is by touching the fabric used to make it. To paraphrase Anna Zegna, a scion of the prestigious Italian clothing brand launched a century ago by her grandfather, only the finest fabrics with the softest hand are used to produce high quality suits. The finer the cloth, the better the material drapes and retains the shape of the garment. Typically the rarest fabrics, including fine micron wool, silk, cashmere and vicuña, can cost hundreds, even thousands, of dollars a yard and are therefore reserved for only the world’s premier suit makers who understand how to tailor them into wearable works of art. As you might expect, the cost of a suit is comparable to the fabric used to make it, so in one sense it’s possible to judge quality based on price. But it’s much more than that. “I always suggest putting on the jacket to immediately see the difference,” says Kiton chief executive Antonio de Matteis, who often refers to the brand’s signature suits as conforme al corpo, or second skins, because they are constructed as close to the body as technically possible. Closely following the lines of the body is considered a mark of quality because such precision fit can only be achieved by a highly skilled tailor. If done properly, the formfitting silhouette should feel surprisingly more comfortable, and look more elegant, than suit jackets extolling a roomier fit. “A very chic suit is the one that nobody notices from a far distance but it’s easy to tell that it’s beautiful and well-made when you see it close up,” adds de Matteis. Perfection begins “the moment the human hand takes the place of the machine,” he concludes.
fashion
MEN ON Photographed by JON MOE Produced by SUSAN F. SIDOR
MERCEDES-BENZ 2011 E350 CABRIOLET IN PALLADIUM SILVER
THE GO!
LIFE IS A JOURNEY. TRAVEL IN STYLE!
4 FORUM
VESPA(R) IMAGE COURTESY OF PIAGGIO GROUP AMERICAS, INC. (C) THE PIAGGIO GROUP OF COMPANIES 2010
5 FORUM
6 FORUM
THE ROADSTER BY TESLA MOTORS
7 FORUM
8 FORUM SEVEN CYCLES CAFÉ RACER S DESIGNED, HAND MADE AND PAINTED IN WATERTOWN, MA; AVAILABLE THROUGH SIGNATURE CYCLES NYC
HAIR AND MAKE UP: SYDNEY JAMILLA; MODELS: SHAUN MICHAELSON / Q MODELS, TR PESCOD / CLICK MODELS, AKSANA SAMUYLOVA / FORD MODELS; ASSISTANTS: TARA FERRI, AVERILL ROBERTO, JULIO FRIAS; TAILOR: JULIO FRIAS
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fashion
12 ways to maximize your wardrobe
GETMORE BANG! FOR YOUR BUCK Photographed by JEFFREY APOIAN Produced by SUSAN F. SIDOR
THE SUIT
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CAN’T GO WRONG WITH CLASSIC COLOR, CURRENT CUT
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RELAX: WEAR THE SUIT JACKET WITH ANALL OPENDRESSED COLAR UP
IMPRESS: WEAR AN ASCOT AND
JEANS BUSINESS CASUAL
FLAT-FRONT PANTS ARE MODERN AND SLIMMING
YOUNG & HIP: MIX IT UP WITH A VEST AND BOWTIE. NIGHT OUT
A SUIT JACKET DOES DOUBLE DUTY WORN WITH DARK JEANS
ALL BUSINESS: A GREAT TIE & POCKET SQUARERELAXED IS ALWAYS RIGHT. ELEGANCE
ADD A GREAT VEST AND DRESS SHIRT
fashion
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ON THE GO
THIS FUNCTIONAL BLAZER HELPS YOU TRAVEL IN STYLE
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SPORTY CHIC
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COOL AND COMFORTABLE OVER CASHMERE
PREPPY STYLE
ADD A CABLE KNIT AND A VIBRANT POCKET SQUARE
BUTTONED UP
THE SPORTCOAT GOES DRESSY IN A TAILORED LOOK
4 ways to wear
THE TRAVELER SPORTCOAT
THE SYSTEMS JACKET
G R O O M E R : M A R K L E Y L A N D ; M O D E L S : S I M O N W H E E L D O N / D N A M O D E L S , WA D E P O N I C / M A J O R M O D E L S ; A S S I S TA N T S : TA R A F E R R I , AV E R I L L R O B E RTO , J U L I O F R I A S ; TA I L O R : J U L I O F R I A S
4 ways to wear
fashion
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WEEKEND COMFORT
PAIR THE OUTER SHELL WITH A SOFT BUT CHIC HOODIE
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INNER BEAUTY
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THE LIGHTWEIGHT INNER SHELL WORKS WITH ANY OUTFIT
KEEPING WARM
LAYER WITH A FITTED SPORT SHIRT AND CARDIGAN
DRESS IT UP
THE JACKET STEPS UP ITS STYLE OVER A SPORTCOAT
style
THE 1930S WERE YEARS OF UNPRECEDENTED GLAMOUR, EXCITING FASHION AND U.S. DESIGN LEADERSHIP.
PAST PERFECT
A brief history of men’s style in America. By Frank A. Schipani
Note the tan suede shoes, the ever present handkerchief and even a seasonal flower adding a touch of color to the lapel 48
The 1930s are most often remembered for the Great Depression and the political rumblings leading up to World War II. In spite of all this gloom, the decade was also an era of unprecedented glamour, exciting fashion and design leadership from American apparel companies as well as retailers that catered to men. There were no ‘name brand’ designers then, just tailors, pattern makers, stylists, marketers and sales associates all working under the prevailing code of style: men dressed well every day and especially for evening. Hollywood films from the era are filled with men in tailored clothing, fitted beautifully to the body. (Observe how doublebreasted coats did a fine job of hiding a paunch when properly tailored.) It truly was a glamorous period, making me long for the days when nightclubs headlined a big band, a place where we could go to dine, listen to ballroom or jazz music, drink and dance the night away in chic clothing. The illustrations pictured here, originally featured in Apparel Arts magazine during the 1930s, look absolutely relevant and appropriate
more than 70 years later! Note that men wore lightweight flannel in the summer, as it draped better than cotton or linen, which were used mostly for casual wear. So how did we get from there to here? When the war started in 1939, suppliers were severely limited to making only things that supported the war effort. To control fabric costs, for example, most companies were banned from making vests. Conservation was the name of the game and makers focused on basic garments and colors. The styles of the ’40s became sedate until the ’50s arrived with two distinct fashion points of view. One was ‘Ivy League-inspired’: soft shoulders, high button stance and tweedy jackets married to oxford button down shirts and traditional ties, completed with saddle shoes and argyle socks. The other was ‘Continental’: Roman influenced square shoulders, shorter jackets
worn close to the body, with small side vents or none at all. The fabrics were untextured, and shiny mohair was popular. The pants were tapered, cuffless and worn with tonal silky socks and narrow shoes. The shirt was smooth poplin and ties were shiny, usually with designs. People now recall this as ‘The Rat Pack (as in Sinatra and friends) look.’ Then the ’60s ushered in a British influence: bell bottoms, flower patterned shirts, giant lapels and polyester knit suits—comfortable but unfortunately ugly and tasteless. Out of this era, Pierre Cardin, Ralph Lauren and Giorgio Armani were some of the first menswear designers who truly made a name for themselves. Of course, designers before and since have contributed to men’s fashion in many ways, but none have influenced change quite like these gentlemen. In 1964, Cardin introduced a longer, body-fitting jacket that
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would become a standard. His model, by virtue of its silhouette, made the wearer look sexy and forced every manufacturer to come up with their own ‘Cardin’ model. What both Lauren in the ’60s and Armani in the ’70s did was to establish a point of view that’s recognized and accepted globally, each continuing to successfully evolve his collections for the modern man. From the ’60s to present day, there has been no cultural standard for dressing well, due largely to enormous social changes, in particular, our nation’s broad acceptance of casual dress, which so often appears sloppy, cheap and unkempt. But when guided by a professional, one can look chic and comfortable whether in a suit or in sportswear. Just leave the sweats and sneakers for athletics! Frank is a sales trainer and fashion consultant. Contact him at frank@theschipanigroup.com.
dress
ACCORDING TO MY GRANDFATHER, OUR CHOICE OF CLOTHING IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT DECISIONS WE MAKE EACH DAY.
NIRVANA THROUGH CLOTHING
Get ready to transform your life. By Vivek Nagrani
uring his time, my grandfather built a successful retail business. Every summer, I’d spend days at his stores, working the floor, watching customers and learning the meaning of luxury. According to my grandfather, our choice of clothing is one of the most important decisions we make each day. In a world of turmoil, this might sound superficial, but think about it: Whenever you step out of your house, what you wear and how you wear it sends a message to those you encounter. What’s more, the way you look is directly correlated to the way you feel. If your wardrobe makes you feel great, you walk the walk. Much like an athlete’s uniform, your choice of clothing sets the mood, creates the attitude. When you’re in the zone, everyone you interact with feels that energy and reacts to it. Clothing is far more than fabric to cover the body. It’s a way you express a sense of style to the world, creating a unique state of mind.
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Every piece of clothing you own should enhance your lifestyle. Each article should work to create multiple looks and bring variation when combined with the rest of your wardrobe. his fall, I encourage you to seek Nirvana by applying a few small changes to your wardrobe—and your attitude. If you peer through your closet and find yourself bored or uninspired, choose change. When you start to enjoy what you wear, you start to feel better. If clothing serves merely a utilitarian purpose, you have missed out on a very enjoyable part of life. Would a gentleman drink an inferior wine just because it is on the table? As in all areas of life, one should savor each experience, including something as simple as putting on underwear or socks. That said, here are a few thoughts on how you can enhance your life by adjusting your wardrobe. Starting from the top: the jacket. Soft coats are essential to the man on the move. When I say soft coat, I am referring to a less constructed coat that has a natural, soft shoulder. The fit is tailored, and the look is flattering for all body types. Unless your health club requires you to work out in your jacket, you don’t need to size up. (My recommendation this season: a soft cashmere sportcoat that goes with anything.) Next, the shirt. Gone are the days of the man-blouse, that billowy flow of fabric hanging out of your trousers. For men on the husky side, fitted shirts make you appear leaner and more put together. For the trim guy, the slimmer shirt highlights your sexy shape. Let’s talk trousers. For me, any-
thing more than a single pleat is unnecessary unless you are a member of the Russian dead lifting team. Your chinos are great, and I’m sure you’ve had great times in them, but it’s time to refine that look. The fivepocket trouser is an ideal choice for both casual and dress. Choose soft fabrics like corduroy, cotton twill or brushed cotton. Combined with a soft coat, you have many more options than with denim or chino. And the look is modern and elegant. The belt can make or break your whole look. When selected correctly, a belt can slim the waist as well as finish or enhance an outfit. Different trousers require different belts. A
belt you wear with a suit will look ridiculous when worn with denim. An easy rule to remember: the belt should fill the belt loop. For denim, try something playful, interesting and different. For dress, try skins with unique textures. In general, your belt should match your shoe, but rules can be broken, especially with denim. A woman can size up any man just by looking at his shoes. Move away from black this season in favor of brown or cordovan to take your entire wardrobe to the next level. For fall, try a half boot to change the drape of your trouser. Loafers are great with more casual looks, but if
BELIEVE IT OR NOT, EVEN GREAT SOCKS CAN CHANGE YOUR MOOD, PUT A SMILE ON YOUR FACE AND GET THE WOMAN ACROSS THE ROOM TO COME BY AND SAY HELLO. you’re wearing a suit, go with a laceup or monk strap. As with anything in life, the difference is in the details. Believe it or not, even great socks can change your mood, put a smile on your face and get the woman across the room to come by and say hello. Above all, shop with enthusiasm. Enjoy each item you purchase, savor the experience and have fun with your clothes. It’s all a part of celebrating life. Vivek Nagrani is a well-dressed menswear designer who knows how to celebrate life. You can find his smile-inducing socks in our store.
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scoop
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heroes
DO0LITTLE RAIDERS A TRUE STORY OF COURAGE UNDER FIRE. BY DAVID A. ROSE
APRIL 18, 1942 — 8:15 AM I sit in the cockpit of my B-25 Mitchell Bomber and watch as the aircraft carrier USS Hornet pitches with the violent sea. The storm seems to be getting worse; the rain only adds to our anxiety. Thanks to the careful planning of the U.S. Navy, General Hap Arnold and Lt. Colonel Jimmy Doolittle, our mission will be America’s first attack on the Japanese homeland. The plans are so top secret that we had no idea where we were going until a few days ago. Our orders: bomb only designated industrial and military targets. The desired effect: material and psychological loss for the Japanese and a morale boost at home. A month after the attack on Pearl Harbor, Doolittle asked for volunteers for a dangerous mission with a survival predction of 50 percent. Eighty of us volunteered and spent only a few weeks training for short distance take-offs and low level flying. The sixteen B-25 Bs that would fly this mission were modified to accommodate much larger fuel loads than
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normal; each plane would carry 1,141 gallons of fuel and 1,875 pounds of explosives. With a crew of five and two 50 caliber guns, weight will be a factor. Since we will have no fighter escort, each plane has a couple of broomstick handles painted black and fitted to our tail section to fool enemy planes into thinking we have a tail gunner. We’re hoping it works. Our plan was to take off at 6 p.m., but our fleet was discovered by an enemy trawler. Although our destroyer USS Nashville was able to sink the vessel, it was not before she gave our task force’s position to the Japanese High Command. Admiral Halsey, responsible for the safety of our fleet, ordered the Army planes to take off at once. So here we are: fueled up, loaded with bombs
and prepared for a daylight bombing and night landing (instead of the night bombing, with daylight to help find our landing strips in China as planned). Even worse, we’ll now be 600 instead of 400 miles from the target. We won’t have enough fuel to make it to the designated landing sites in China, so we’ll have to hope for the best after crash landing or ditching our planes mid-air. We’ll fly 50 feet above the sea until we reach Japan. Once we hit the shoreline, we’ll fly at treetop level to avoid being detected by enemy radar. This is going to be a very long day. s my crew and I watch Doolittle take off, we’re amazed at how high the flight deck officer instructed him to rev his engines while Doolittle stood on the brakes. When he finally got the signal to take off, he lifted his feet from the brakes and looked as if he was catapulted off the carrier. Soon I will do the same and our mission will begin.
APRIL 18, 2010 There were 80 volunteers for the mission many had called unimaginable. There are today only eight survivors; four attended a celebration in their honor earlier this year. The heroes who attended the event at the National Museum of the United States Air Force graciously signed hundreds of autographs and posed for photographs with crew members of the 17 B-25s that had flown in from all over the country. Lt. Colonel Richard E. Cole, now 94,
The raid was successful, but once the bombs dropped, a new adventure began. Fifteen B-25s made it to China and one to Siberia, but none were able to land. After bailouts or crash landings, most of the crewmen were found by Chinese peasants who attended the injured and guided the raiders to safety.
had been Jimmy Doolittle’s co-pilot on the first plane to take off. Major Thomas C. Griffin, 92, was the navigator on plane #9. Lt. Colonel Robert L. Hite, 90, was the co-pilot on plane #16 and Master Sergeant David J. Thatcher, 88, was the engineer and gunner on aircraft #7. Other survivors—Colonel William M. Bower, 93; Lt. Colonel Frank A. Kappeler, 96; and Lt. Colonel Edward J. Saylor, 90, were unable to travel to the event. Just being in the company of these great men was enough to stir emotions. To see them on the museum’s runway in front of the largest assemblage of B-25’s since WWII was nothing short of extraordinary. As a child, I had watched Spencer Tracy, Van Johnson and Robert Mitchum in the Academy Award winning film 30 Seconds Over Tokyo. I was captivated by the story of bravery in the face of such odds. I practiced drawing images of the famed B-25 whenever I could, made models of the plane and displayed them proudly. My dream was to one day
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fly in a B-25, so when I learned of the Doolittle Raiders reunion, I felt I just might have my chance. The opportunity of a lifetime finally arrived when I positioned myself inside “Axis Nightmare” (a B-25 from Batavia, OH). It’s difficult to express the emotion that came over me as we idled before takeoff. But once we were airborne the sentiment changed to pure excitement as we were joined by two other B-25s and two P-51 Mustangs flying as fighter escorts to our formation. After we landed and my dream had been realized, I spoke with the plane’s pilot, Doug Rosenblatt, who has been flying B-25s for the last 18 years. “I believe the single most courageous act in aviation was those pilots releasing the brakes that morning,” Rosenblatt said. “I can’t imagine what was going through their minds. I’ve spoken to some of the raiders, who say they knew they were ‘fighting for all the marbles.’ They understood what was at stake, for themselves and for our country, so they were more than happy to release the brakes. They did what they had to do.”
humor
CLOONEY, YOU BASTARD, YOU HAVE EVERYTHING—WHY DO YOU HAVE TO HAVE MY HAIRCUT?
GEORGE CLOONEY STOLE MY HAIRCUT I finally got a good haircut. This is a big deal because it’s the first good one I’ve gotten since I stopped working in New York City two years ago. I have worn my hair the same way for the last 30 years: short on the sides, long enough on top to lay flat, shoved to the side with no part. The beauty of it is that after stepping out of the shower, a quick squeegee with the palm of my hand is all it takes to put things in order. Mr. C, my barber 30 years ago, suggested it, I think to save himself from wrestling with my long, unruly locks. His shop was located on Lexington Avenue about a block from my office, and I used to arrive early to catch up on all the fine articles in his enormous stack of Penthouse magazines. Prior to finding Mr. C, I always hated getting a haircut, hated dealing at all with my out of control hair. My mother tried everything known to science at the time to tame it. She drowned it in Vitalis and slicked it down with Brylcream. (Take my word; a little dab didn’t do me.) Finally, she found a substance that resembled human nasal excretion in color and consistency. Even my very ladylike mother would say, “Let’s get some snot on your hair,” as she liberally applied it each morning. This stuff dried as hard and impervious as varnish.
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I gave up on it as soon as I had anything to say about the matter and wore a crew cut through college. In the ’60s I succumbed to the long hair trend, an unfortunate choice for me as the photos prove. But Mr. C fixed everything with the haircut he created. Unfortunately, he died about 20 years ago, leaving me bereft and barberless. After a long string of bad haircuts, I landed in Ana’s chair at Supercuts. She automated my style by using her electric shears for the sides and back, using scissors only on top. I took a haircut (the expression my dad always used, to which I’d of course reply, “Who did you take it from?”) with her right before I left New York, but I’ve had a hard time replacing her. Last week I decided to try the shop in a nearby town. The barber, a brassy blonde woman about my age, listened patiently as I explained shears settings, etc. Then she looked at me and said, as though belaboring the obvious, “You want a George Clooney.” I couldn’t summon a mental picture, so she produced a photo and sure enough, he had my haircut. I was stunned and mortified. All these years, people must have been thinking that I’m trying to look like George Clooney. In my head I could hear their whispered comments: “Look at that old guy trying to look like Clooney. It’s going to take more than a haircut to pull that off.” Clooney, you bastard, you have everything— why do you have to have my haircut? When you see him on Oprah and he mentions that he took a haircut, now you’ll know who he took it from.
GETTY IMAGES / DIMITRIOS KAMBOURIS
By Jerry Andersen
A heritage of Swedish design and innovation since 1928
cooking
A RECIPE FOR
hile dining out has its benefits, sometimes there’s nothing more romantic than an intimate date night at home. With the help of Eric S. Lee’s Sweeping Her Off Her Feet With Food, even novice chefs can master sure-towow dishes like Duck Breast with Raspberry Ginger Sauce and Lamb Osso Bucco. Lee provides full menus for simple but delicious meals, laid out in order of increasing difficulty. He also offers easy tips for enhancing the mood, dressing to impress (we can help with that!) and setting a beautiful table. Like any good cookbook, there’s a glossary of terms and photos of the basic tools you’ll need. But Lee’s deeper message is that our relationships deserve the same amount of effort we devote to the other areas of our increasingly hectic lives. When you take the
HEAT UP COLD NIGHTS WITH A HOME COOKED MEAL FOR TWO. BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE 58
extra time to make your partner feel special, good things are sure to follow. Wink. This recipe for Baked Tilapia with Ratatouille was created by Lee exclusively for Forum readers. It’s a great fall dish that’s simple yet hearty, and a snap to make. End with a box of favorite chocolate truffles for a no hassle dessert. (Continued)
IMAGES BY JULIE CARDINAL
Romance
19 5 0-2010
CELEBRATING 60 YEARS OF AU T H E N T IC A M E R IC A N S T Y L E www.roberttalbott.com
Baked Tilapia with Ratatouille
2 4-6 ounce tilapia filets (or other mild fish like sole or halibut) 1 medium zucchini cut lengthwise and sliced into half-moons 1 small eggplant diced into 1 inch cubes 4 fresh Roma tomatoes, diced 3 cloves of garlic, chopped 1/3 cup red onion, chopped 1/4 teaspoon thyme 1/4 teaspoon oregano 1/4 cup white wine 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil 1/2 cup brown rice salt and pepper to taste Preheat oven to 3750. Place a 2-quart saucepan on stove over medium high heat. Add 1/4 cup olive oil. Once oil is warm, add zucchini and eggplant and sautĂŠ for 3 to 4 minutes, until vegetables begin to soften. Add garlic and onion, then stir and sautĂŠ until
translucent, about 2 minutes. Turn heat to high and immediately pour in white wine. Cook mixture until liquid begins to evaporate, about 1 minute. Add tomatoes, thyme and oregano and cook for 1 minute, then reduce heat to simmer and cook for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add salt and pepper to taste. Prepare brown rice according to instructions on package. Salt and pepper both sides of each fish filet and place in an 11 x 9 inch
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baking dish oiled with 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Place in oven and bake for 7 to 9 minutes, until fish is cooked through and flakes when pierced with a fork. Remove from oven and place fish filets on top of 1/4 cup of cooked brown rice placed in the center of dinner plate. Spoon Ratatouille on top of fish and serve with warmed artisan bread and olive oil for dipping. Enjoy with a light bodied Merlot, Pinot Noir, Beaujolais or Rioja.
spirits
BEWARE THE BARTENDER WHO DOES NOT REFRIGERATE HIS VERMOUTH.
DRINKOLOGY
The best cocktails come with a great backstory. By Robert Haynes-Peterson
Sazerac: A New Orleans original, right? Maybe. Cocktail historian Wondrich notes that the first known published reference to the Sazerac cocktail is in an 1840 New Orleans paper quoting a New York City paper. Oh the horror! Another drink that initially employed Cognac (before rye), America’s First Cocktail is credited to Dr. Antoine Amedee Peychaud (of Peychaud’s
FABIO CHIZZOLA/MAREK & ASSOCIATES/TRUNKARCHIVE.COM
“A good drink is a good drink. A great drink is a good drink with a great story.” This bon mot was iterated by Tanqueray Gin brand ambassador Angus Winchester at this spring’s first-ever Manhattan Cocktail Classic. Thanks to a renewed interest in classic cocktails and intrepid researchers like David Wondrich (Imbibe!), Robert Hess of the Museum of the American Cocktail, and Anastatia Miller and Jared Brown (Spirituous Journey, A History of Drink), the often anecdotal and competing histories of our favorite cocktails are nowadays arriving at something closer to the truth. Though as “Wine Geek” and bartending instructor Steve Olson says, it’s all still “murky bar history.”
MARTINEZ
(from Jerry Thomas 1887) dash Boker’s Bitters dash Maraschino Liqueur 1 oz Old Tom Gin 2 oz Antica Formula Sweet Vermouth Pour ingredients into a mixing glass, shake with ice and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a lemon slice. Can be sweetened with 2 dashes gum syrup.
Martini: For years, the “Martinez”—a gin, vermouth, cherry liqueur and bitters concoction that appears in bartending icon Jerry Thomas’s 1887 edition of How to Mix Drinks—was considered the “grandfather” of the Martini. Problem is, the ingredients don’t line up all that well. Perhaps it’s more of an “uncle.” Winchester’s “Martini Family Tree” includes three significant ancestors: the Martinez, the Turf Club (Dutch gin and sweet vermouth) and bartender Harry Johnson’s 1895 Marguerite (not to be confused with the Margarita) which includes Plymouth Gin, dry vermouth and bitters. Oddly, Johnson’s “Martini” (first known use of the word) has almost nothing to do with a modern Martini. Wondrich, meanwhile, explores four stories in his book Imbibe!, including that Judge Rudolph Martine invented the drink at the Manhattan Club by ordering gin
rather than rye, and French over Italian vermouth in his Manhattan cocktail. Insider’s Tip: Beware the bartender who does not refrigerate his vermouth. Definitely stirred, NOT shaken, says Angus Winchester.
Dr. Funk: Tiki drinks are hot right now, and the Dr. Funk is a unique introduction to the tropical cocktail world, beyond Piña Coladas. Though a standard recipe appears in Trader Vic’s 1947 Bar Guide, what’s particularly cool is that Dr. Bernard Funk was a real guy and a close friend of author Robert Louis Stevenson (who retreated to Samoa for his final years). The good doctor was known for adding lemonade and absinthe to “a stiff drink,” and the cocktail evolved from there. In the new book Speakeasy: The Employees Only Guide to Classic Cocktails, With a Twist (October 2010), the authors/bartenders have updated the Dr. Funk with Mekhong Thai rum, ginger beer and mint. Insider’s Tip: The drink is traditionally served in a Fu Manchu mug, not a Tiki mug.
Sidecar: The Sidecar is “a beautiful gift from the French,” says Wondrich, “and one of the only good cocktails to come out of Prohibition.” But the cognac-based “Daisy” (any long drink with a base spirit, citrus and a sweetner) has its roots in Jerry Thomas’s 1876 Improved Brandy Cocktail. Joseph Santina, a New Orleans bar owner, is credited with rimming a glass with lemon juice and sugar in 1852, and creating the “Crusta” category, crucial to the evolution of Sidecars, Margaritas and other cocktails. The first mention of the Sidecar by name is in Harry McElhone’s 1919
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Harry’s ABC of Cocktails, where he credits London bartender Patrick MacGarry with inventing it. Robert Vermiere’s 1922 Cocktails, How To Mix Them instead says the drink was popular in France during World War I, and was named for an American Army Captain who rode to and from Paris mainstay Henry’s Bar in a motorcycle sidecar, and helped design the drink. The finishing touch—the sugared rim—doesn’t show up until after Prohibition in the mid-1930s.
Margarita: Another in the “Daisy” category of drinks, the Margarita has more creation stories than any other popular cocktail except, perhaps, the Cosmopolitan. “The Margarita really got its start as tequila-spiked lemonade on the roadsides of Mexico,” says Junior
CABO WABO
(From Trader Vic 1947) 1/2 oz dark Jamaican rum 1/4 oz Clandestine Absinthe 1/2 oz lemon juice 1/4 oz grenadine 1/4 tsp sugar fresh lime Cut lime in quarters, muddle in a mixing glass. Add liquid ingredients and sugar. Shake with ice and strain into a chimney glass. Top with club soda or sparkling water, and garnish with fresh fruit and a fresh, edible flower.
Bitters fame) who was drinking with friends in his office and threw together a little absinthe, bitters and a Cognac called Sazerac-deForge et Fils. Et voila! The name stuck when proprietor John Schiller opened New Orleans Sazerac Coffee House in 1859.
PLYMOUTH GIN
DR. FUNK COCKTAIL
Merino, the Liquid Chef and a Mexican-born bar consultant in New York. The combination of tequila, triple sec and lime—essentially a Tequila Sidecar—boasts at least eight 1940s-era “inventors,” but didn’t grab national attention in the U.S. until well into the 1970s. Our favorite origin story: The drink is named after actress Rita Hayworth (birth name Margarita Cansino) by one or more bartenders while she was a dancer in Tijuana. The truth may be far more mundane: The Spanish word for daisy is margarita. AyAyAy!
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EVER SINCE I TRIED ON MY FIRST PAIR OF LEVI’S, I’VE REMAINED FAITHFUL IN A WAY I RARELY DID WITH WOMEN.
IN THE JEANS
I’m visiting my ex-girlfriend in NYC, and she’s trying to separate me from my 501s. Not in the way that a guy would want: slowly and seductively. Instead, it’s broad daylight and I’m being dragged into a trendy shop. “Yes, Levi’s are classic, but there are brands out there that will suit you better now,” she insists. “Your style needs to grow up a bit.” After five years together, Bettina and I have become friends. Could this be her way of getting back at me? She had wanted me to commit to her in the way I had committed to my 501s. I’m from Milan and ever since I tried on my first pair of bootleg, buttonfly Levi’s, I’ve remained faithful in a way I rarely did with women. Maybe she’s right. I’m almost old enough for the Italian version of AARP and I’m still wearing worn-out jeans and T-shirts, particularly sad for an Italian. In the store, she pulls me toward a stack of ‘tarnished’ jeans (a faded black wash). I keep my mouth shut and do what I’m told. She says I need jeans that flatter my butt. I’m a bit insulted: what’s wrong with my butt? I remember buying my first pair of 501s, a decision I made mostly because the sales associate was young
64
and female and gorgeous. Throughout high school and university, I remained loyal to Levi’s, their comfort and continuity. I’ll admit it: I liked my women new and my denim worn in. Now, as I step out of the dressing room in these unfamiliar jeans, I feel like a wannabe rock star. Nearby, a handsome young French guy has tried on three pairs to my one, all perfect on him. I’m confronted with an image of confidence I’m unlikely to acquire again, certainly not in these jeans, which are clearly all wrong. Ready for a quick exit, Bettina promises she’ll continue searching for my perfect jeans and will send them to me in Italy. A week later, I receive a package at work. I lock myself in my office and try them on. I scrutinize my secretary’s face while I ask for her opinion. She’s young and hip, and I have no shame. She likes them! And, so do I. They skim my body and magically give the illusion of my old fencer’s physique: higher, rounder glutes and longer legs. I feel manly and renewed. How could I not have noticed that my 501s were no longer doing it for me? Soon after, Bettina flies to Milan on business and I wear them for her. She looks at me like she did when we were first together. The moment is at once exhilarating and comfortable. Hoping she feels it too, I discover the extreme pleasure of jeans being unzipped. (She jokes about no more broken nails from undoing buttons.) We’re in sync for the first time in ages and I realize that we fit… like the jeans I’m wearing. I resolve to go with the changes and grow into the next phase of my life. This time, she won’t have to drag me.
IMAGE COURTESY OF AGAVE
We all have to grow up eventually. By Michael Giulietti
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