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Forum Forum/The substance of style/Fall 2008
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GIFT CARDS INSIDE (see page 33 )
The magazine of
Kilgore trout Fall ‘08 Fashion: Riding in Style Day into Night Dressing The New Slim Suits
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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian Sprague PROJECT MANAGER
Mary E. Davis DESIGNERS
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell FASHION DIRECTOR
Susan F. Sidor ASSOCIATE FASHION EDITOR
Tara Ferri MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Contents KILGORE TROUT FALL 2008
Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Fran Salamon PRODUCTION MANAGER
Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
Kilgore Trout 28601 Chagrin Blvd. Cleveland, OH 44122 216-831-0488 www.kilgoretrout.com
F E AT U R E S 8
A Common Thread
Hugh K. Stanton BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi
19 Kilgore Trout Events
PRESIDENT AND CEO
30 Profile: Vivek Nagrani
Britton Jones
37 Torino Leathers
CHAIRMAN AND COO
Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
FA S H I O N 24 Women’s Trends 28 Style: Pocket Squares
Christine Sullivan APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN
32 Trousers: Incotex
Kaps ANDOVER, MA
38 Clothing: Napoli’s Tailors
Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA
40 Serious Suits for Serious Times
Malouf’s LUBBOCK, TX, BURLINGAME, CA
48 5-Pockets, Five Ways
Mario’s PORTLAND, OR, SEATTLE, WA
56 Sole Survivors
Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN
D E PA R T M E N T S
Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY
20 Ask Forum
Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX
Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA
34 CEO Style: Raytheon’s Bill Swanson 54 Scene Around the World
Fashion Forum Magazine is published in 14 regional editions for member stores of the Apparel Forum Copyright 2008. Published by
58 Speed: American Motorcycles 60 Spirits: Viva Tequila 62 Travel: Cambodia 64 End Page: Combining Closets
Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, NY, NY 100186108, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 11, Issue 2. Printed In The U.S.A.
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THE SUBSTANCE OF STYLE
Ansel Adams Richard Avedon
Miró and More.
Hanneke Beaumont David Bennett Fernando Botero
View our extensive inventory, browse artist biographies, and access a calendar of gallery exhibitions and international art fairs, online anytime.
Louise Bourgeois Margaret Bourke-White Henri Cartier-Bresson Marc Chagall Jules Chéret Chuck Close Salvador Dalí Jim Dine Alfred Eisenstaedt Andreas Feininger Helen Frankenthaler Lynn Goldsmith Frederick Hart Sean Henry Horst P. Horst Jasper Johns Wolf Kahn William Klein Jon Kuhn Roy Lichtenstein Jacques Lipchitz Maximilien Luce Peter Milton
Joan Miró Louise Nevelson Pablo Picasso Markus Pierson Stephen Rolfe Powell Robert Rauschenberg Pierre-Auguste Renoir James Rosenquist Sophie Ryder Joan Miró (1893 - 1983) Équinoxe, 1967, Etching and Aquatint with Carborundum, 41 x 29 inches
Frank Stella Mackenzie Thorpe James Jacques Tissot Toulouse-Lautrec Rembrandt van Rijn Andy Warhol Tom Wesselmann Edward Weston
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Project Director Christopher Hixson Photography Luis Alvarez Aquage t
Art Direction|Design Denise Taylor
Hair Deena Nicely Aquage t
Makeup Wanda Alvarez
Stylists JB Dunn, Andrea Naymon Photographer Assistant Andrew McAllister
Two issues ago, FORUM featured Kilgore Trout’s “United Nations of Tailoring.” Last issue we featured our sales consultants: the men and women who serve you at our store. Your response was so terrific, we thought it was time to immortalize some of you. Over 32 years, Kilgore Trout has become very much like an intimate piazza in an Italian town — a place where people come together as much for community as for the desire to pick up the newest shirt or a great suit. In Italy, they have “La Passeggiata”, the evening stroll, to see and be seen, and to socialize. Here, our community is defined more by where we work, worship, play golf, volunteer — or where we shop. We appreciate being your de facto town square. When you visit, we enjoy the laughs, the conversations, and the catching up just as much as we do the clothing transaction. And when you run into friends at the Trout or meet new ones here, our community gets a little bigger — and the world gets a little smaller. One of the clients we photographed for this feature may have said it best: “While I may walk into Kilgore Trout for something spectacular to make me look good on the outside, I always walk out feeling enormously good on the inside...” That’s our passion, and that’s our pleasure. We look forward to seeing you on the piazza. Wally Naymon, Shopkeeper
Innovative Cleveland chef and restaurateur ZACK BRUELL has encouraged us to break bread together for almost two decades, first at Z Contemporary Cuisine, now at Parallax and Table 45. His sense of community extends far beyond the table, and includes raising funds for cancer research in memory of his father, Ernest.
Whether in scrubs or suits, SANJ KALRA is building relationships and providing support to Cleveland’s doctors who rely on surgical devices from Boston Scientific to save lives in our community. Sanj is a booster of Victory Gallop, where kids with medical and emotional challenges get comfort and therapy through horses.
T R O U T
K I L G O R E
As Chairman of Cleveland’s NineSigma, RICHARD SCHWARZ banks on promoting Open Innovation in an international community by connecting Global 1000 companies with the world’s leading innovators. While he sees the world as a gathering place, the gathering place in cleveland gets his support as well.
Riding in the Tour de Cure was a good goal for SARA WALDRIP. But helping build Team CLS (named for the Waldrips’ company, CLS Facility Services) into one of the top 10 fundraising teams in the US was the result. Sara rides for the American Diabetes Association not just to raise research funds, but to promote the message of eating right & staying fit to avoid adult onset diabetes.
K I L G O R E
T R O U T
Ohio Super Lawyer LYNN SCHONBERG, a partner and founder of Ross, Brittain & Schonberg practices employment law, and serves on the board of Cleveland Hillel Foundation, the center of Jewish life for 2,500 undergraduate and graduate students in our community.
A note on the project: Other than the obvious common interest in shopping at the Trout, we didn’t anticipate a ‘theme’ for these portraits. But as we spent the day with these ten people at the photo shoot, we realized the common thread: Each of them is making our community a better place to live and work. Whether through business or philanthropy or both, we think every client makes Cleveland and northeast Ohio a stronger community. We thank these ten for taking the time to be included in FORUM.
K I L G O R E
T R O U T
Early in life, HOWARD “HOBY” HANNA IV wanted no part of the family real estate business. but now, as president of Howard Hanna Ohio, he’s the third generation to help guide America’s fifth largest real estate company. Home is at the center of every community, and Howard Hanna helped 30,300 americans into new homes last year alone. And Howard Hanna’s Childrens Free Care Fund has raised millions for children’s hospitals.
K I L G O R E
T R O U T
by day, SAM GABEL enjoyed a rewarding career as a public elementary school teacher, and by night she was (and is) an active part of cleveland’s rock’n’roll scene with husband Barry. Now she volunteers with Flashes of Hope – the organization that creates powerful, uplifting portraits of children fighting cancer – so that they can feel like rockstars, too.
Over 3,000 members worship at Mt. Zion Fellowship, founded in 1982 by PASTOR RON WILLIAMS, and the Mount Zion Community Development Center connects to the needs of even more clevelanders with programming like CampTech, which creates endless possibilities for youths 6-18 by learning computer skills.
K I L G O R E
T R O U T
Building a company the size of Dots (with over 400 stores) takes passion. Dedicating a career to nursing does, too. And passion is a trait that BOB AND JOANNE GLICK have in spades. Equally enthusiastic for business, family and northeast Ohio, the Glicks’ community is broad: from MOCA Cleveland to Rainbow Babies & Childrens Hospital, and Montefiore to Cleveland Institute of Art.
What Was. What Will Be. Kilgore Trout In-Store Events
Tory Burch Launch Of the many in-store events at Kilgore Trout last season, a favorite among our womens store customers was the Tory Burch launch party and luncheon. Guests enjoyed informal modeling of the spring and summer collection, and a luncheon complete with a heavenly dessert bar. Meanwhile in the mens store, we were celebrating our 31st anniversary with a tribute to Groucho Marx and a spin at the Prize Wheel for every shopper. Bad jokes were the order of the day, and everyone got caught up in the fun of taking home their very own Groucho glasses. By the end of the event, even some of the ladies were sporting glasses and a fake mustache!
Upcoming Events MENS TBA Sep 27 Oct 11 Oct 11 Oct 11 Nov 06
Gimos Outerwear Ermenegildo Zegna Samuelsohn Gravati Footwear VK Nagrani Hosiery Flashes of Hope (www.flashesofhope.org)
WOMENS TBA Agave Denim TBA White+Warren Lux Cashmere TBA Gimos Outerwear Nov 06 Flashes of Hope Dec 12 The Gift Event Dec 13 The Gift Event
Visit kilgoretrout.com for the most current event information and to join our e-list.
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Ask Forum Do you have to be a skinny rocker type to wear aAbsolutely skinny tie? not. The key to choosing a tie is to keep it in proportion to the rest of your outfit. A slimmer suit looks best with a slimmer tie; the generally accepted rule is to keep the width (at the widest point) of your collar, your lapel and your tie as close to equal as possible. Over the past several seasons, jacket lapels have been getting narrower and ties have followed. While today’s standard necktie is only slightly narrower—a quarter of an inch—than it was a few years ago, this newer width will modernize your entire wardrobe.
PHOTO JEFFREY APOIAN
I just invested in classic cap-toe oxfords; how do I care for them? Moisture is the arch-enemy of shoe leather. A once-
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a-month, professional-grade polishing will help prevent rainwater and the occasional errant garden sprinkler from ruining leather uppers. Take care to guard against moisture on the inside of your shoes as well. Cedar shoe trees not only maintain the shape of your shoes better than their plastic counterparts, but they also absorb moisture from the inside. Over time, shoe trees will take on a slight sheen and be less absorbent. Keep a small sanding block in your closet and give them a quick swipe to renew the cedar before inserting them. Finally, avoid wearing the same pair of shoes two days in a row. Give your shoes time to rest and they’ll keep you looking good for many years.
T H E S U B S TA N C E O F S T Y L E
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Ask Forum My nephew just got his first real job and has been wearing bowties. Are they back in style? Certain fashion trends need to skip a generation to look good again. If two successive generations rebel, you end up with guys who dress like their grandfathers—either in a retro or an updated way. Today’s bowties are a great way to express personality and command attention. You can wear a bowtie with confidence in the fact that you’re making a strong sartorial statement—and that your tie won’t end up in your soup.
PHOTO JEFEREY APOIAN
I bought an oversized watch that looks great with polo shirts, but none of my dress shirts have cuffs that accommodate it. What do I do? To accommodate your new watch, choose your
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shirts carefully. French cuffs will definitely offer your watch a little more room. If traditional barrel cuffs are more your style, look for a cuff with two buttons that will let you adjust the fit to accommodate your watch of the day, be it slim or oversize. The cuff should fit loosely over your watch. If the cuff is too tight, it will creep up your suit sleeve and get caught above your watch, leaving you with only one artfully exposed cuff edge. Of course, your best option is to try a madeto-measure shirt that will be sized to your exact specifications and personal taste. Come in and we’ll show you how this option can work for you.
T H E S U B S TA N C E O F S T Y L E
W W W. R O B E R T T A L B O T T. C O M
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FALL
Beaded cashmere dress by Catherine Malandrino
TAKES
Restrained indulgence is in the air and nowhere is it more evident than in the collection from designer Catherine Malandrino. Restrained in form and line, yet an epiphany of color, pattern, and indulgent fabrics like cashmere and silk chiffon. Before introducing her label, the feisty Malandrino designed for Emanuel Ungaro and Diane Von Furstenberg. Now she weaves together the energy of Manhattan with the romance of Paris, and we’re excited to share her latest collection with our customers this fall. Her dresses like the one at left are the hottest thing in New York, and her tops look great with a simple pair of Agave Jeans. Many of you came to our Agave event in spring and discovered their perfect fit. For fall, we’ve gone denim crazy with Agaves in wide and straight leg, stripes and plaids, even a waxed jean. We’ve added knits and leather jackets, too. Our springtime launch of Tory Burch also left you wanting more – with the hottest looks selling so quickly that we couldn’t keep up. For the coming season, we’ll expand into Tory’s denim line, along with gorgeous quilted leathers, printed cashmeres and more dresses. Her color palette evolves from a luscious purple and features browns and navy, too. Of course Vince is back, with great fitting everyday clothes – the stuff you can run errands in while feeling (and looking) terrific. Vince’s little purple swing coat isn’t to be missed. Schumacher is moving a bit dressier than in seasons past, with an emphasis on black, and elegant dresses, skirts and tops of silk, chiffon and wool blends. And the ‘shrug’ is back! At the markets, we discovered lots of terrific sweaters: Colorful cashmeres from Emma and Posh, super comfy
A DRAMATIC TURN printed and tie-dyed cashmeres from Marika Charles, cashmere hoodies and turtles from Vince, and sweater dresses and sweater coats from D. Exterior in a hue best called mink – a chocolate brown so rich it’s almost black. For a night out at the club, you’ll love the collections from Iisley: fun, cute and flirty. We especially love the red Tiffany jacket – so named because every inch is covered in sequins. Dresses continue to make a huge impact for formal evenings and special events, from the avant-garde Charles Chang-Lima with a collection in black and caramel to the refined Italian styling of D. Exterior. Outerwear for the coming winter centers around exquisite leathers to last a lifetime from favorites like Gimos. Add a bit of drama with a pendant from one of our jewelry designers and a luxurious and highly functional bag from Botkier or Brooklyn designers Hayden-Harnett, and you’ll be set for the season. We look forward to shopping with you! So, Kilgore Trout asks... Must indulgence and restraint be mutually exclusive?
Photography|Luis Alvarez for Aquage Graphic Design|Christopher Hixson Makeup|Wanda Alvarez
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PHOTO COURTESY MASSIMO BIZZOCCHI
Style by Mike Grossman
It’s hip to be square 28
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I think that I shall never wear A thing as lovely as this square, This soft and silky work of art That makes me look both rich, and smart. It brightens up a dark dull suit And makes me feel less destitute. A necktie’s great, or so I’m told But sometimes makes me feel too old. By simply folding up this square I gain some class, beyond compare. And oh, what pure perfection Could I afford the whole collection…
THE SUBSTANCE OF STYLE
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Profile by Karen Alberg Grossman
Fashion Iconoclast “We create wonderful products, and make lives wonderful along the way.” –Vivek Nagrani, designer
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If there’s such a thing as divine justice, men’s fashion entrepreneur Vivek Nagrani has known it. Despite pressure from his family to study medicine, he followed his heart and enrolled in the entrepreneur program at USC. His senior thesis, “Converting Commodities into Objects of Desire,” received a C- from his professor, who found the concept frivolous. Today, in addition to managing a thriving men’s fashion business, Nagrani guest lectures at USC’s business school. “My goal is not to build a huge business but to build a great business,” he explains. “I believe that fashion is entertainment, and that luxury, in addition to reflecting quality, involves the privilege of individual expression, of going beyond the ordinary.” With his very creative collection of men’s hosiery (originally called Ovadafut), Nagrani, a former art teacher, has done just that. Using the finest quality cottons and wools in the world, he combines bold colors and whimsical graphics into socks that make you smile. “From the Duke of Windsor to Frank Sinatra, well-dressed men have always worn wild socks,” maintains Nagrani, whose office features a framed photo of the entire New York Rangers team, trousers rolled to show off their Nagrani socks. “It reflects confidence, affluence, and a definite attention to detail.” Nagrani has designed socks for numerous charities and has donated socks to disaster victims. A letter received from a Katrina victim says it all: “I thought my life was over; your socks inspired me to get back on my feet.”
THE SUBSTANCE OF STYLE
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Trousers by Joe Augustine
INCREDIBLE INCOTEX No single item of clothing deserves more respect than the trouser, the foundation on which all other garments are layered. And just outside Milan, there’s a company whose passion, whose sole purpose for existence, is trousers. A brand long known by discerning consumers worldwide, Incotex has quietly gained ground in the U.S. by offering only the best-fitting, most well-made trouser constructed from the finest fabrics in the world Fit, fabric, and construction… these are the tenants of the Incotex design philosophy. The fit embodies the spirit of Italian style: trim, modern, conducive to moving in harmony with the body but specifically tailored for the American consumer (totally separate from patterns produced for Europe or Asia). Stylistically for Incotex, less is more. Classic solid colors and micro-neats dominate the line, in keeping with the company’s sophisticated heritage.
PHOTO COURTESY INCOTEX
“Incotex is the gold standard of trousers, the one that all other brands reference.”
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Working in strategic partnerships with some of the finest woolen mills in Italy, Incotex continually pushes the envelope in fabric innovation. Famous already: their exclusive “Incochino” polished cotton twill, “Chinolino” garment-washed cotton/linen blend, “IceGab” high-twist cool-touch cotton, and “CashCord” cotton/cashmere corduroy. Additions for fall 2008 include the “CashBabyCord” pinwale corduroy (with a higher percentage of cashmere-to-cotton and a buttery soft hand), their own newly-developed cotton “Moleskin” (with the addition of stretch for comfort) and the “SuperGab” 280-gram super 150s wool gabardine, providing the ultimate in comfort and performance. If it’s possible, the interior of an Incotex pant is even more impressive than the exterior. The “curtain” lining the waistband is a work of tailoring mastery. The waistband itself has a sturdy but flexible interlining to gently prevent “rollover”; the lining is constructed of the finest cotton dress shirting material for maximum breathability, and is pleated to allow some give when sitting or bending. All buttons are “shanked” by hand, and are slightly concave and specially polished to allow for easy fastening and un-fastening. Every seam is neatly serged and trimmed so there are no excess threads to snag or pull. For those who demand the very best, anything less than an Incotex pant is a compromise.
THE SUBSTANCE OF STYLE
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CEO Style by Karen Alberg Grossman
IN DEFENSE OF STYLE
PHOTOS COURTESY RAYTHEON
Raytheon CEO William H. Swanson with his wife Cheryl.
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He heads a $21.3 billion company with 72,000 employees and 86 years of technological innovation (from the first lasers to radio tubes to microwaves to state-of-the-art electronics, intelligence systems and missile technologies), yet Raytheon CEO Bill Swanson waxes poetic about a navy blazer. Well, not just any navy blazer, but an Italian-made water-repellent cashmere; he’s already bought two of them. “You pour water on it and it runs off like the back of a duck,” Swanson observes in amazement. “I sat here after I got the first one, took a cup of water over a trashcan and said to the three people sitting there, ‘You know, this jacket’s a little dirty. Why don’t I wash it off?’ So I poured the water on the sleeve and it just ran right off, without leaving a mark. It’s the most conversational jacket I own; everybody remembers it. And every time I demonstrate how it repels water, people want to buy one. Because when you touch it, it feels just like a normal blazer...” For an engineering professional with numerous degrees and honorary doctorates, Bill Swanson knows a lot about clothes. “In the spirit of full disclosure, I should tell you that my stepfather (who was like a father to me) was in the menswear business: he had a clothing store in California’s San Joaquin Valley. So from when I was about 12, I worked in his store, opening every morning, learning all about stitching and tailoring and fine fabrics. I also learned how to sell suits and let me tell you: our tailor, he fixed a lot of problems! In a clothing store, the tailor is the magician!” Asked about his personal style, Swanson admits he’s a traditionalist. “I like two-button Italian clothing so what I generally do each spring and fall is select swatches and order three or four sportcoats and suits from my favorite makers (Canali, Zegna, Brioni, Isaia). When you do it with swatches, you get exactly what you want. Since I’m conservative, I’ll go with a nailhead, stripe or classic charcoal that lasts forever and never goes out of style.” For formal occasions, Swanson wears Canali tuxedos. “I have several different colors: charcoal, dark blue, black. I wear mostly bowties and cummerbunds. I have one long formalwear tie but I prefer a traditional bowtie.” When it comes to casual clothing, Swanson favors chinos and golf shirts. “I like buying shirts where I play and then advertising the course. For example, I was recently traveling and I had on a Cypress shirt. I had two people come up to me and say, “Great course! Do you play there?” Then we started talking about the course and then about a related golf book, The Match by Mark Frost, which led into another story. In this way, a simple shirt becomes a conversation piece.” Swanson is also into shoes and accessories. “I like the exotics because once
THE SUBSTANCE OF STYLE
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they break in, they’re like slippers. The other thing I like is custom belt buckles; the one I get the most compliments on is silver with a turquoise inlay. It’s nice when people notice that you’re wearing something different. Two assistants in my office always comment when I wear something new…” Dress code at Raytheon is Business Casual, except for customer visits when it’s coat and tie. “Normally here it’s a sportcoat and open shirt, but I’ve noticed lately that Business Casual is getting a little more formal. When it first started, everybody dressed down in chinos and buttondowns. We never got into the jeans thing, although it became the mantra for a lot of other companies… But around here these days, you’ll see more slacks and sportcoats, a notch above what I’d say is “California Casual.” It’s not a written dress code, it just kind of evolved.” Asked how he first got into industrial engineering, Swanson recalls his childhood. “When I was a small child, my parents would give me these plastic models to build. I never used the instructions, probably because I couldn’t read at the time. It was like a giant puzzle for me. And then anything that would break in the house, I’d take completely apart and put back together. Usually I’d end up with a few extra pieces but amazingly, everything ultimately worked. “When I got out of high school where I was on the golf team, one of the golf coaches at the university offered me a full ride if I’d play for them. I had just met my future wife who was a straight A student, I’d never taken a textbook home in high school so I decided it was time to get an education. So I took the golf scholarship, graduated at the top of my class with an engineering degree and loved it because it appealed to my mechanical aptitude.” Hired by Raytheon in 1972, Swanson started out on the factory floor and has held 14 different positions in the company. “As I often say, to go from factory floor to corner office happens only in America. But for me, the joy of my job is still the thrill of making things better. The insatiable desire for continuous improvement is part of my DNA. My wife Cheryl will tell you that one of the reasons she keeps me around is because nothing stays broken in our house. We live in downtown Boston and a ceramic washer in one of our sink fixtures was broken. I’d ordered the internal mechanism and one night after work, I went home, poured a nice glass of Pinot wine, took the thing apart and put it back together. I love that stuff!” Swanson believes that had he not chosen engineering, he would have stayed with golf. (Editor’s note: His index is 6.8, despite playing only 12 to 14 rounds a year.) “One of my great mentors was the golf pro I worked with from when I was 15 until I was 23: Al Lape who ran the Morro Bay Golf Course on the Central Coast of California. I got my job there because I could fix up their busted golf carts, which we could then make money on (Al made 100 bucks per cart and gave me $50). Al taught me so much about the service industry, which is probably why I now have such affection for people. He taught me how to be comfortable with all types. He taught me that you’re going to wake up some days with somebody determined to ruin your day, so what you’ve got to do is figure out how to turn them around, how to to get them laughing… Al was a great man who loved life and genuinely believed in the power of humor.” Asked about MathMovesU©, the public school math/science initiative that Raytheon has implemented under his guidance, Swanson has trouble containing his enthusiasm. “There’s not enough time for this one: this is where I light up like a
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THE SUBSTANCE OF STYLE
“I’ve noticed that Business Casual is getting a bit more formal. When I first started, everybody dressed in chinos and buttondowns; these days, you’ll see more slacks and sportcoats.”
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“About four years ago, I changed our corporate giving policy. I wanted to make sure that it was strategically aligned with our business.” Christmas tree! About four years ago, I changed our corporate giving policy. I wanted to make sure that it was strategically aligned with our business. As a company, what’s key for our future is the ability to maintain an innovative and diverse workforce. We have about 42,000 engineers in the company and we sell in 80 countries around the world; innovation and diversity are absolutely essential to what we do. “And when you get down to basics, science and math are important not only to engineering, but to other fields like finance, contracts, IT. With the first baby boomers, those born January 1, 1946, now turning 62 at a rate of 10,000 per day or seven per minute, the back end of the workforce is retiring at the same time that our demographics are shifting. “So we’re working on ways to encourage kids at the middle school level, with a special focus on females and minorities because they are under-represented in the
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engineering workforce. We chose to focus on middle school because at the 4th grade level, the U.S. is among the top 10 countries in the world in terms of math/science comprehension, but by the 12th grade, we’re at the bottom of the charts. In a short period of time, we lose them. So if we can figure out in the beginning how to keep them interested, then we’ll be so much better at supporting the employment pipeline that our country needs to maintain its competitiveness globally. “The other amazing thing is that we have thousands of volunteers in the company who want to work on educational programs. (Editor’s note: Raytheon matches up to $5,000 to any employee who wants to donate to education.) As a company, we’ve taken on tough challenges over the years and we’ve always been able to deliver on our promises. But we know that it’s only through continued innovation and diversity that we’ll keep on growing.”
THE SUBSTANCE OF STYLE
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Torino Leather by Karen Alberg Grossman
Luxury Leathers Torino makes some of the most beautiful belts in the world, right in New Orleans. On a recent trip there, we met with managing director Tom Garner and heard his story.
“I was in Vegas at a trade show when Katrina hit; I couldn’t get home. Our factory was in the east part of town, right where the waters rose the highest. We suffered multimillion dollar losses, with only a fraction covered by insurance. “They say that 1.2 million people evacuated New Orleans before the storm: many of our people went to Houston; the owner of our company decided to retire. So four of us, with a combined 85 years experience at Torino, decided to buy the company. We had tremendous problems finding workers: people had settled elsewhere, their kids were in school, they weren’t coming back... “Right after the storm, I went out on the road to sell a line that I wasn’t sure we could produce. But somehow, even with limited styles, we got some great orders from the best stores in the country and I knew we were going to make it. “Most of our business is in leather belts but our exotics (35% of our units) are truly special. We do a sueded Nile crocodile from Central Africa (tanned in Tokyo) that’s incredible, but the African crocs grow to 22 feet and are sometimes too large to use for belts so we find smaller skins. They mill the finish like a piece of wool in the tanning process, which creates an unbelievable softness. We do a great Cayman croc from South America with smaller scales and a matte finish. Ostrich leg is a totally different skin and has become very popular. We also do American alligator, tiger shark, stingray, tie-dyed lizard, and more. “In general, belt making is very labor-intensive. The average belt requires 45 steps, a lot of care, time and talent! Plus waste is costly, especially with exotics: cracks in the skin are a natural part of the animal so it’s something we have to deal with. But a wasted strip ends up costing us lots of money... “There are many advantages to working with a boutique-type operation like Torino. We offer a refurbishment guarantee: we will repair any item whether it’s a tarnished buckle or a belt that’s worn around the holes. We also take custom orders: one guy just ordered sueded crocodile suspenders. Many guys are fanatic when it comes to exotics: I recently made a sales call in Greenwich Connecticut and while I was out to lunch, the sales staff sold $6,000 in belts from my samples!” Some of the 45 steps it takes to make a belt; some of the talented craftspeople.
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Clothing by John Craig
NAPLES AND THE ART OF TAILORING There’s no place on earth like Napoli: striking coastlines, roaring Vespas, pretty girls, petty theft, laughter and Limóncello, the BEST pizza in the universe and of course, the most beautiful handcrafted clothing. The tailoring of Naples is a tradition that dates back hundreds of years, before America was a glimmer, before climate crisis, Vioxx commercials, and mass-produced, machinemade clothing. But as we Bluetooth our way through life, many of us have lost an appreciation for things handmade and many companies have abandoned the art of hand tailoring. The survival of tailoring in Naples depends on companies that modernize without abandoning their roots, and also on consumers who appreciate quality and choose to support that tradition. In Naples, the tradition lives on. Tailoring is a process that requires patience and focus. It takes thousands of stitches, presses, and movements of a tailor’s hand. It also takes time. Each stitch is chosen—and executed—by a person, a person who decides precisely where to place that stitch. When you try on a handmade garment, you can feel the difference. It gives in the right places. Over time, it contours to your body. A handmade garment is thousands of choices and centuries of tradition draped over your shoulders. The people of Naples pride themselves on this rich history, which dates back to the 14th century with the creation of the first tailoring association, Confraternita dell’arte dei Giubbonai e Cositori. As time passed and Naples’ ports became active conduits of European art, music, and culture, Neapolitan tailoring became known as the finest on the continent. The clothing of Naples dressed the royalty of Europe. Enrico Isaia opened his fabric shop in Naples in the early 1920s, selling his hand-selected English and Italian fabrics to the town’s tailors. After several decades, the Isaia family moved to Casalnuovo, just 13 kilometers northeast of Naples. With his three sons, he opened up his own tailor shop to accompany his growing fabric business. The town of Casalnuovo was unique in that half of the town’s 15,000 inhabitants were employed as tailors. Isaia was born. The company began making made-to-measure suits and jackets for the best stores in Italy. Over the next two decades, Isaia grew to become the most respected tailoring company in Naples. Staying true to its roots as a fabric connoisseur, Isaia still focuses on fabric. They continue to work with the finest mills in Italy and England, but today, they design fabrics through computer-aided technology. This modern spin on fabric creation is part of what Isaia calls “Contemporary Tradition.” Through this technology, Isaia creates modern patterns and lighter weight, better performing fabrics that still display the bold and colorful tradition of Neapolitan dress. Isaia has also created
Tailoring is a process that requires patience and precision.
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AQUASPIDER and AQUACASHMERE, two fabrics that, while 100% natural (no Teflon, thank you very much), are wrinkle and water-resistant. The fit of the Isaia garment is also a mélange of past and present. Neapolitans live in a coastal, relaxed environment. Historically, their dress mirrors this, particularly in the expression of the shoulder of their jackets. The shoulder of the Neapolitan garment is less padded, softer, often featuring wrinkles in the sleevehead (at the shoulder seam) called “grinze.” The grinze is a sign that the garment has been constructed by hand. The diameter of the armhole is smaller than the diameter of the sleeve-head. Put simply, they don’t match. It is up to the skill of the tailor to hand-set the sleeve-head’s extra fabric into the armhole. This extra fabric allows for greater comfort and freedom of movement. A machine set sleeve is typically constructed with a much larger armhole to attempt to allow for comfort, but causes the jacket to look “boxy” and unflattering. Realizing the importance of the hand-set sleeve, Isaia has again contemporized this tradition. Because few American men appreciate wrinkles in their clothing (do you love linen like the Italians do?), Isaia has responded by putting the grinze on the inside of the garment. The sleeve-head is left with a cleaner appearance on the outside (at the shoulder seam) while continuing to pay homage to the traditional tailoring techniques developed hundreds of years ago. Isaia customers know that the fit of this garment is the most flattering in the world. It appeals to the experienced man who wants a more youthful look (without looking like he’s trying too hard), as well as to the young man who wants a bettermade, more sophisticated garment. So next time you’re out shopping for that suit, jacket or shirt, think about the tailors of Naples. Think about the man who still makes clothing by hand for local politicians in his small apartment overlooking Piazza Plebiscito. Think about Enrico Isaia and his small fabric shop in the 1920s. Think about the heritage, tradition, and passion that goes into these garments and you might think yourself into a better suit.
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SERIOUS
SUITS FOR SERIOUS TIMES
THE WORLD HAS CHANGED AND SO HAVE SUITS. HERE’S WHY TO INVEST IN NEW SUITS FOR FALL 2008.
Photographed by Jeffrey Apoian / Produced by Susan F. Sidor
ASSOCIATE EDITOR: TARA FERRI; ASSISTANT: JESSICA DELIA; GROOMER: ANTHONY ISAMBERT FOR HALLEY RECOURSES; MODELS: PAUL COSTER/MAJOR MODEL MANAGEMENT, WADE PONIC/MAJOR MODEL MANAGEMENT, JAMES MATHIEU/NEW YORK MODEL MANAGEMENT; WATCHES: MOVADO; CUFF LINKS: ROBIN ROTENIER
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Trimmer lapels create a modern and powerful
persona. Whether notched or peak, suit lapels are narrower to complement narrower neckties and scaled-down shirt collars.
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Slimmer silhouettes
work like an instant diet—without the suffering. Long, lean, trim and slim, the modern suit silhouette takes off pounds. No need to hide behind extra folds or pleats. Plus, these slimmer suits are surprisingly comfortable, thanks to natural stretch fabrics and new tailoring technology.
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Attention to detail in clothing implies
attention to detail in life. Don’t ruin a fabulous new suit with ordinary accessories. Often, it’s the finishing touches that make the impression: the iconic watch, the perfect tie or pocket square, cuff links that reflect your personality.
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1 . With Luxury Layers. It’s all about touch: pair corduroy or brushed cotton 5-pocket pants with rich cashmere coats and zip-front hoodies. The message is soft, soft, soft!
ASSOCIATE EDITOR: TARA FERRI; ASSISTANT: JODI PENZER; HAIR: ANTHONY ISAMBERT FOR HALLEY RESOURCES; MAKEUP: SARA FRANZESE; MODELS: MICHAEL BRAGER/MAJOR MODEL MANAGEMENT, JONO DARVILLE/NEW YORK MODEL MANAGEMENT, JONATHAN KEYSER/WILHELMINA MODELS, ELVIRA/WILHELMINA MODELS, MELINA HUETTNER/TRUMP MODEL MANAGEMENT; WOMAN’S SHOES: DEVANI; RESTAURANT LOCATION: BAROLO, NYC
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5
Pockets, Five Ways Whether in denim, corduroy, twill, brushed cotton or wool, nothing is as comfortable or as versatile as 5-pocket pants. Here, five ways to wear them. Photographed by Jon Moe Produced by Susan F. Sidor
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2.whisper With Leather and Suede. To dress up classic jeans, to affluence without arrogance, you need only show some skin.
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3. Like a Rock Star. Go for the rough-and-ready look with dark jeans and a distressed leather jacket. It’s about Worn, Beat-Up and Exclusive!
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4. With a Sportcoat. 5-pocket pants paired with a sportcoat and striped shirt is a sophisticated alternative that takes you from day into night!
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5. Like Prince Charming. Whether it’s a festive ball or a plain old bar, evenings are enhanced by velvet. Show your creativity and style by mixing the formality of a velvet sportcoat with the casual flair of 5-pocket pants. Just watch out for Cinderellas‌
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SCENE AROUND THE WORLD by Donald Charles Richardson
TREASURE CHEST
Cognac is the civilized way to complete a dinner. Among the most impressive is the Beauté du Siècle Hennessy Cognac, a limited-edition blend by cellar master Yann Fillioux from Hennessy reserves, which are up to 100 years old. To properly display this rare cognac, Hennessy brought together ten artists to create an aluminum and mirrored chest with a bronze key. At the press of a button, the bottle—crafted in Baccarat crystal and a Guerlain metal lattice—rises up on a tray. The price is $200,000. Hennessy also crafts the Paradis Extra Rare Cognac ($400), a spicy potable featuring subtle tones of honey, truffle and wild rose.
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HAPPY BIRTHDAY 007
Both London’s Dukes Hotel and the late Ian Fleming, author of the James Bond books, celebrate 100-year anniversaries this year. For the occasion, Dukes (a Fleming haunt) is offering the “Bond About Town” package: in addition to a one-night stay, men get that 007 touch with a traditional wet shave, hot towels and massage at the Truefitt and Hill barber shop on nearby St. James Street. Women receive a pampering “Miss Moneypenny Manicure” at the Dukes Health Club. Both can attend a “Martini Masterclass” with Alessandro Palazzi, the celebrated bar manager at Dukes Bar. Prices start at £450.
THE SUBSTANCE OF STYLE
PHOTO COURTESY REGENT HOTELS AND RESORTS
PHOTO BY BJORN ERIKKSON, COURTESY OF QUARKER EXPEDITIONS
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ISLE AWAY TIME
If you thrive on discovering the next destination, check out the new Regent Maldives. Opening this winter, the resort will occupy the entire 860,000 square-foot Maalefushi Island in the Indian Ocean. Check into a private beach villa, over-water villa (where you can observe marine life directly beneath your room) or the Presidential villa, set over the coral lagoon. Services include a full spa, fitness center, tennis court, volleyball court and yoga pavilion. The active traveler will revel in a 125-foot long beachfront infinity pool, and enjoy easy access to scuba diving, snorkeling, windsurfing, parasailing and deep sea fishing.
POLAR EXPRESS
When the icebreaker 50 Years of Victory isn’t crashing through the frozen Arctic, it takes 128 passengers to the North Pole. No need to pack like Robert Peary; the newest addition to the Quark Expeditions’ fleet cruises in style. Cabins have facilities en suite and an ocean-view window. Passengers enjoy lounges, a bar and library, an indoor pool and two saunas, a hair salon, and even a helicopter for aerial sight-seeing. Prices start at about $23,000. You can bet there’ll be plenty of ice for cocktails.
PHOTO COURTESY LAPA PALACE, ORIENT-EXPRESS HOTELS
THE RITE OF PORT
The traditional ceremony that accompanies opening a bottle of port is both fascinating and sophisticated. The barmen at the Lapa Palace in Lisbon, Portugal begin by placing heated tongs around the bottleneck at the middle of the cork. An ice-cold towel is then wrapped around the neck, contracting and breaking the glass in a clean cut, without damaging the cork. As the port is decanted, a candle is held next to the bottle to expose impurities. Performance of the ritual costs €40 plus the cost of the port. Try it with a truly fine wine such as Graham’s Malvedos Vintage (1998) for €228.
THE UNSTOPPABLE GOLFER
On those days when you can’t get away from your home or office yet really need to play golf, there’s the DreamGreen from Duffy Golf. This line of adjustable indoor putting greens provides a massive 3 million combinations (featuring fully adjustable breaks), enabling practice for almost any situation you might find on a course. The cup is regulation, and the green speed was developed with input from PGA Professionals. There are five standard sizes ranging from 8 to 20 feet in length, and greens start at $2,200, soaring up to $25,000 for custom hardwoods and design.
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Sole Survivors Kilgore Trout trusts northeast Ohio’s only couture cleaner. Shouldn’t you?
Two old names with a decidedly new game: Pantofola d’Ora (Slippers of Gold) and the Timberland Boot Company arrive at Trout.
Sometimes we find a centuryold company that’s new to us, and other times we rediscover a resource that we wrote off long ago, but that has returned with exceptional new collections. Our introductions Thoroughbred Italians with a sporty sole from of Pantofola d’Oro Pantofola d’Oro and Timberland are perfect examples of the tremendous editing process we go through every season to bring you only the best merchandise we can find in the market. For every brand that finally ends up at our store we look at an average of twenty additional brands. We take great pride in this curating process, and we’ve even won an industry award for what was referred to by one of the judges as “…a store filled with the best lines that can be found, edited to perfection.” The current season examples could not originate from two more historically different sources. First, we offer Pantofola d’Oro, or Slipper of Gold. Founded in 1886 in the little Italian town of Ascoli Piceno by a cobbler who had a love of soccer, the first shoes he made were for his son to wear playing the game he loved. Today the shoes show both their sporting lineage and beautiful Italian craftsmanship. They make the perfect pairing with any sportswear, offering sophistication along with great comfort. Second, we bring you The Timberland Boot Company. Yes, that Timberland. From its work boot heritage comes a new boutique division which, in their words, offers “…work-wear inspired footwear from a company serious about its values and its history, made for people who admire quality, authenticity and classic design…” This rugged and stylish footwear has already been a hit in the UK and Europe and we’re excited to bring it to Cleveland. – J.B. Dunn
www.londoncleaners.com
Work-wear inspired boots from Timberland
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Speed by Robert Haynes-Peterson
PHOTOS: THIS PAGE, COURTESY INDIAN MOTORCYCLES. OPPOSITE PAGE, COURTESY CONFEDERATE MOTOR COMPANY AND HARLEY-DAVIDSON.
AMERICAN HERITAGE
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In some ways, it’s a tough time to be an American, what with a weak dollar, a lending crisis and poor Q-ratings around the globe. On the other hand, it’s a great time for American motorcycles: Harley-Davidson is celebrating its 105th Anniversary this August, the Indian brand name is being resurrected this fall, Victory has exploded onto the scene, and high-end custom shops like Confederate and Big Bear are thriving despite intense overseas competition. “The genesis of the idea was to create a statement about what American design can be,” says Matt Chambers, CEO of Confederate Motor Company. The affable Southerner infuses peace-driven politics with a strong anti-establishment philosophy. “When we founded the company in 1991, Harley had really moved into the mainstream, and abandoned their rebel status. They’ve done a great job, and they are a great company, but you can’t be a rebel and have Senator John Kerry ride your bike around Jay Leno on The Tonight Show.” While Confederate bikes are designed with the independent spirit in mind, for those who revel in the small business model which Chambers says is the core of the American spirit, it doesn’t mean they come cheap. The B120 Wraith, which launched this year in a limited edition of 250, runs about $90,000 (if you can find one). The 390-lb. carbon-fiber and aluminum bike features a 1,966 cc 45-degree twin-cylinder engine. Like its predecessor, the Renovatio, the futuristic bike seems more Terminator-meets-Tron than roadbike—but the beast flies. “The evolution that brought about the Wraith brings the overall aesthetic of the bike closer to an organic form,” says Chambers. “It has a slightly greater holistic read than our Hellcat, plus dynamic benefits like a more rigid chassis and more strength up front. We developed a brand new, non-weld carbon fiber frame just for it.” The company, which now manufactures in Alabama, unveils its next model in September on the Bonneville Salt Flats. Chambers (who grew up in New Orleans, and lost his entire company to Katrina) is uncharacteristically silent on the details. “It’s called the Fighter, which is an irony,” he explains. “It may be the toughest American statement yet. It’s a product that our designer Ed Jacobs just knocked the ball out of the park for.” The new Indian Motorcycle company is taking a bit of a different tack, according to chairman Stephen Julius. With the first Indian-branded bike in five years hitting the market as you read this, Julius is pleased he was able to bring back a piece of American heritage. The original Indian Motorcycle Manufacturing Company (which is a couple years older than Harley-Davidson) had its heyday in the first half of the 20th century, and went bankrupt in the late ‘90s. A Gilroy, California firm crafted the label for a few years until 2003. The new backers specialize in resuscitating iconic brands, and are determined to make a stand via name recognition and qual-
THE SUBSTANCE OF STYLE
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“I believe it is a possibility in design to change the way people think.” – Matt Chambers, CEO Confederate Motor Company
ity. After two years of “teases,” the first Chiefs roll off the line this fall. “It’s extraordinary to buy America’s oldest bike company,” says British-born Julius. “Harley-Davidson is a great company, but it’s a strange market where there’s really only one brand in the heavy cruiser market. We aim to change that.” In May, the company allowed the first real peek at its initial model, the Chief, at its North Carolina flagship. With retro stylings and the signature deep-drawn fenders, there is no mistaking this tough-yet-elegant rebel with a cause. A muscular pan, studded black seat and wide tank mark this as a bike to reckon with. “We are very much an American company, made in America,” says Julius. “It’s something we pride ourselves on.” He says the Chief will launch with accessories, apparel and variations. The base model runs between $31,000 and $36,000. “During the latter part of 2009, we hope to come out with a second model, the Scout—another historic Indian name.” Meanwhile, Harley-Davidson—the ultimate in American Motorcycle labels— continues to shine, despite recently witnessing its first dip in profits in several years thanks in part to increased manufacturing costs. The company celebrates its 105th anniversary with a blowout event in Milwaukee at the end of August, the opening of a Harley-Davidson museum, and the continuing expansion of its breakthrough women’s market—a truly 21st century American approach. “We’re gonna rock Milwaukee,” says H-D’s outreach marketing manager Ken Ostermann, “so you definitely don’t want to miss this once-in-a-lifetime event.” Why buy American in the first place? Confederate’s Chambers would argue buying anything quality from an independent company in an age of Wal-Marts and Starbucks is a symbol of participating in a bigger philosophy, whether you’re getting a made-to-measure suit from us or a Fighter from him. Stephen Julius at Indian has an even more pragmatic approach. “We live in a world now where being differentiated is absolutely critical, whether you’re talking about a bike, a car or a coffee maker. In terms of the quality, engineering and materials we’re using, they’re the best you’ll get. The whole bike is full of gorgeous details. It’s a high-performance piece of technology, but it’s also a piece of jewelry. A bike has to appeal to the emotions, it’s got to create an urge.” You really can’t get more “American” than that! Any way you slice it, American bikes stand for something bigger than simply dual wheels on the open highway. They stand for what was, what is, and what can be in American manufacturing at the highest levels. Bikes like Confederate’s B120 Wraith (above) and Harley’s new Softail Cross Bones (left) combine edgy style with beefy American manufacturing.
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Spirits by Robert Haynes-Peterson
Viva Tequila!
PHOTO COURTESY DON JULIO TEQUILA/HUNTER PR
“There are 650 aromas in a good, aged tequila,” says Dr. Jaime Villalobos Diaz, president of the Cultura y Capacitacion del Tequila, a certified national tasting and standards board in Mexico. “The richness of the aromas come from all the agave sugars built up during the 7 to 10 years the plant grows.” Perhaps this helps explain the resurgence in popularity of premium tequilas. A new category sanctioned by the Mexican government last year—Maduro (Extra Anejo or Extra Aged)—has raised the bar for pleasure seekers; the complex premium category, aged three or more years in American Oak following distillation (regular “gold” tequilas are aged two months to one year), soothe the palate like a fine scotch, with overtones of coffee, cigar, bourbon, banana and vanilla. Labels like Partida Elegante, Don Julio Real and Pura Sangre Gran Reserva all sell for around $350 a bottle. For an even milder drink, try Matias Gran Reserva, a tequila filled with rich floral notes. Skip the day trader margarita pitchers, and savor fine tequila the way the Mexicans do—neat with a chaser of Sangrita, a V8-like concoction that differs in composition from bar to bar. Sip it, don’t shoot it. “Taste it like you would a fine wine,” advises Villalobos Diaz.
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c o l l e c t i o n
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Travel by Alexandra Martins
EASTERN ENCHANTMENT Travel writers are important: good ones know how to remove the static and provide entertaining insight to even heavily visited destinations. On the other hand, the freshest insight sometimes comes from non-professional writers. In this issue, we turn our travel department over to newlyweds Eric Topel and Alexandra Martins, who kept a daily e-mail record of their two-week honeymoon through Vietnam and Cambodia (which have both become prime vacation destinations in the past few years). Here, we’ve excerpted segments on Cambodia, a stunningly beautiful nation with diverse attractions—from luxury resorts to ancient temples.
A Double Rainbow We’re not sure if it’s the “acid-tripping” malaria pills talking, but we are IN LOVE with Siem Reap, in the Kingdom of Cambodia. Our hearts melted the instant we landed in the gorgeous new airport, and we continued to bond as we emerged to view a double rainbow beckoning us to this magical land. The cab to our hotel, the ultra-modern Hotel De La Paix, took us right past Angkor Wat’s entrance (the entire structure is surrounded by a moat), past refined, elegant hotels on every corner, and down quaint, tourist-free side streets. Our driver gave us a royal education on Cambodia’s “Father King,” who resides near our hotel. Apparently the “Son King” is not (at least not yet) as beloved as his 80-something father, who retired about five years ago. We settled into our wonderful hotel, exploring its nooks and crannies overflowing with interesting decorations. There is also an art gallery, next to a spectacularly lit bar which highlights more work by Cambodian artists. Though Cambodia was once known as a backpacker’s haven, a number of luxurious choices have sprouted up in recent years. Among the best: our Hotel De La Paix, which treats guests to contemporary luxury, Raffles, a marvelous Colonial hotel, and Amman, a chic, ultra-luxe chain world-renowned for impeccable service. The food here is delicious, full of the flavors we searched for in Vietnam, and found only in Hoi An (much of the cuisine in Hanoi is very bland). We took a quick stroll, and dined al fresco on soup made in a clay pot right at our table.
PHOTOS XANDA MARTINS
Blown Away by Beauty
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Crossing the moat into Angkor Wat isn’t a bad way to start off the day. We opted for a private car and local tour guide, providing us the best of all worlds (including air conditioning—this land is hot, hot, hot). We are completely blown away by Angkor Wat’s beauty. Built during the 12th century by the Khmer ruler, it withstands the tests of both time and beauty. Monks garbed in bright orange robes seem to float among the 40 or so temples while chil-
THE SUBSTANCE OF STYLE
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dren scamper and perform backflips off the moat’s bridge—for a fee. The influence of Hinduism on Angkor (the name for the entire complex—Angkor Wat was the original capital and most famous section) was surprising, given that modern Cambodia is overwhelmingly Buddhist. Everywhere we looked, there was a bas-relief of Vishnu or other Hindu gods. Buddha statues are shrouded in Indian cloth and ornamentation. From here we proceeded to Angkor Thom, the next capital of the Khmer empire, built during the 13th century. It differs from Wat in design and symbolism, but still features some of the Hindu symbols (in an effort to prevent civil war, apparently). Sadly, many of the Buddhas here have been decapitated during centuries of war and theft, and there is more damage here than in Wat. In the afternoon, we savored an Apsara dance—the traditional Khmer dance, reintroduced by the Queen in the 1960s, and made an international sensation by the Princess. A few different dances were performed, featuring slow, controlled movements and ornate costumes. Fingers bend at superhuman angles and add elegance to every pose.
Man Versus Nature What a way to start the day, visiting Ta Prohm, the “Tree Temple,” about 20 miles from the hotel. The oft-photographed temple featured in Tomb Raider is truly beautiful, a stunning example of man vs. nature as majestic trees wrap their thick roots around the temple like anacondas. The effect is sobering: in this battle, nature is winning. We also visited a few other temples off the beaten track, which were constructed under the same ruler who created Angkor Wat and are just as well preserved. As you stroll through, you can envision what it must have looked like when the temple’s four pools were full, elephants roamed the grounds and Apsara dancers entertained the royals. We returned to Angkor Wat just before sunset (a brilliant move on our part) where vibrantly robed monks and the temple’s reflecting pools made perfect overtones against the golden sunset. We shed a few tears in farewell to this beautiful land, which turned out to be the calm before the storm of Ho Chi Minh City and our final return to the urban reality of New York City… Contemporary luxury with an eastern flair at the bar at Hotel De La Paix.
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Young monks in vibrant robes lounge on side streets in Angkor Wat.
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End Page by William Kissel
GETTY 1 / HULTON ARCHIVE
Closet Case
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There’s nothing more troublesome than when two people of disparagingly different sartorial tastes are forced to share a closet. But that’s exactly what my poor wardrobe had to endure—getting squeezed in so tightly that the sleeves of my expensive elegant shirts and jackets were obliged to touch all those XXL bold printed (and frankly tacky) garments bullying for position in my now-cramped closet. Don’t get me wrong. Although I’ve always been a fan of solid gray, black and navy (preferably in cashmere), I acknowledge that bold prints and bright colors look great on some men. In moderation. But most guys wearing loud color, head-to-toe coordinated clothing look as if they were dressed by their wives. Or their mothers. How could I, a fashion editor for more than three decades, share my closet with someone who dresses like a television test pattern? And so I pondered: how did Bill Cosby’s showy wardrobe find its way into my closet? How did all those kaleidoscopic-patterned sweaters end up stacked to the rafters next to my cashmere Kiton turtlenecks and Avon Celli polo shirts? Why are those Wrangler denims now sharing shelf space with my Brunello Cucinelli, Prada and Borrelli trousers? How does one approach the delicate subject of someone else’s fashion judgment without appearing too (dare I say) judgmental? Should I accidentally put a few of those colorful wool knits in the dryer? Should I mistakenly donate them to charity? (Oops, I didn’t know that was your favorite sweater.) Should I cook only superfattening meals laden with butter and cream so that his clothes will no longer fit him? Believe me, I’ve thought of it all. Then I found a simple, if somewhat costly, solution. Rather than criticize my partner’s existing wardrobe, I decided to gradually replace it. I started shopping for texturally-rich Loro Piana sweaters and Lorenzini shirts, among other luxury fashion options, passing them off as gifts to replace all those gently-worn-but-still-lovely (I lied) pieces hanging in the closet. To my surprise, my offerings were so well appreciated that gradually, the Garanimal prints and Crayola colors were squeezed off the racks in favor of tasteful, fashion-appropriate attire—far more suitable to his good looks and professional career. So these days, my partner is fashion savvy and happy, men’s clothing retailers love me, and my biggest worry is how to spend all those points accumulating on my American Express card...
THE SUBSTANCE OF STYLE
Hiltl.ps - 6/27/2008 13:59 PM
www.canali.it
Canali.ps - 6/27/2008 2:04 PM
Preferred Supplier to the 2008 European RYDER CUP Team