Essay: My Father, Myself

By Andrew Isaacs

The sole surviving Himalayan Buddhist Kingdom, Bhutan is a tiny land of big surprises. Instead of GDP, they believe in GNH: gross national happiness. Cut off from the rest of the world until the 1960s, this remote, pristine nation has recently opened its doors to civilization. But just a crack. Still, it is said there’s been more change in Bhutan during these past eight years (cell phones, satellite TV, tourists!) than there had been in the past 800.

Observing the havoc wreaked by industrialization (and Western materialism) in neighboring India and China, Bhutan clings tightly to its Buddhist identity, and to the values its people have treasured for centuries. Still 80 percent agricultural, neighbors help neighbors in the fields. Traveling from town to town with our driver and a guide, we were told that the oldest daughter inherits the family house and farm. “I feel sorry for the younger daughters,” I quipped, trying to be clever. “Oh no, it’s not like that,” my guide explained. “We don’t chase wealth; we would never think that way…” In one town, installing a traffic light to replace the crossing guard caused such an uproar that the signal was removed, the guard reinstated.

Plan for low-impact hikes along a river’s edge rather than intense rock- or mountain-climbing, considered disrespectful to the mountain. Plan to experience a society based on caring for one another, one with minimal stratification, with equal access to education and health care. Plan to meet gentle people in traditional garb who will reinforce your belief in human kindness.

Getting there is tough: there’s one airline with infrequent flights. And the food is just okay. But you don’t go to Bhutan for such superficial pursuits; you go for a cultural and spiritual experience unlike any you’ve known. For more info, contact Aman (the Sanskirt word for peace) Resorts, with beautiful lodges across the country. They will customize a trip to meet your needs and fulfill your dreams.

Pictured on previous page: The

“Bird’ s Nest” is one of Bhutan ’ s holiest temples and a cultural icon.

History: Was a collection of warring fiefdoms until the early 17th century, when unifed by a leader fleeing religious persecution in Tibet. Location: Between the Tibetan Plateau and India. Size: 46,500 square kilometers Population: 970,000. Topography: From 23,000-foot-high peaks in the north to low-lying plains and deep valleys separated by high mountain passes. Government: In 2008, transitioned from an absolute monarchy to a constitutional monarchy; held its first election. Religion: Vajrayana Buddhism, Hinduism. The Pharrell Factor: In 2006, Business Week rated Bhutan the happiest country in Asia.