1889 Washington's Magazine + Special Insert: Ski Northwest | October/November 2023 by Statehood Media

TRIP PLANNER: LAKE CHELAN PG. 86

Mushrooms on the Menu

Protecting Washington’s Orcas

Wine, Bikes + Fine Dining in Sonoma County

WILD FOODS FORAGING TIPS + TOURS

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THE NEW, THE ICONIC + THE BUDGETFRIENDLY

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WASHINGTON

October | November

volume 39

seaside is for Making afternoon-long friends

When your kids meet other kids in Seaside, they don’t have to ask each other what they like to do... because they just met doing it. And they are going to keep boogie-boarding, sand castle building, bumper car bashing, mini-golfing or whatever else “it” is until you have to beg your kids to come back to the hotel to get ready for dinner.

@visitseasideOR

seasideOR.com

Stacks of screen printed T-shirts frame studio manager Maijah at the Slow Loris studio on Guemes Island.

2 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

Keeping It Island photography by James Harnois Slow Loris, a T-shirt company on Guemes Island, ships its goods across the Sound by private boat and ferry in an effort to keep the business on the island. (pg. 48)

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 3

Near Lake Chelan, Rootwood Cider Co. is owned and farmed by three sisters.

FEATURES OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023 • volume 39

A Nordic Journey

Foraging Washington

Transport yourself to maritime Nordic culture through Ballard’s National Nordic Museum.

At the base of the state’s evergreens, many different kinds of wild mushrooms and other edibles are there for the picking, if you know what to do.

written by Kerry Newberry

written by Ryn Pfeuffer

60 Room to Grow

Karisa Anna Photography

Three Washington counties whose lands and waters provide the ultimate in bounty.

written by Daniel O’Neil

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

SPEND A WEEKEND EXPLORING SOME

NEW GRAPE STOMPING GROUNDS.

Árdíri Winery and Vineyards

Order Your FREE Wine Touring Guide

Experience an exceptional, intimate world of wine just west of Portland. Find your new favorite pour at

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DEPARTMENTS OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023 • volume 39 Alex Garland

LIVE 14 SAY WA?

Haunted hotels; a folk rhythm revival; Seattle’s supreme suspense novelist strikes again.

20 FOOD + DRINK

Salty Seattle’s second act; cozy Spokane cafes.

24 FARM TO TABLE

Learning to hunt mushrooms, and a new mushroom cocktail.

30 HOME + DESIGN

A Seattle townhome project that craves rain.

38 MIND + BODY

American Ninja Warrior Heather Nelson.

40 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE

Julie H. Case

Lummi glass artist Dan Friday.

THINK 44 STARTUP

Cookies with Tiffany.

48 MY WORKSPACE

Slow Loris’ screen printing studio.

52 GAME CHANGER The Orca Conservancy.

EXPLORE 76 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT

80 ADVENTURE

Three amazing fall bike tours.

84 LODGING

The Historic Davenport Hotel in Spokane.

10 Editor’s Letter 11 1889 Online 94 Map of Washington 96 Until Next Time

COVER

photo by Peter Mahar COR Cellars in Lyle (see “Room to Grow,” pg. 60)

Visit Spokane

A dog’s homeland, Guemes Island.

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

86 TRIP PLANNER Lake Chelan in fall.

92 NW DESTINATION Healdsburg, California.

CONTRIBUTORS

JACKIE DODD Writer + Photographer Beervana

RACHEL GALLAHER Writer Startup

DANIEL O’NEIL Writer Room to Grow

ALEX GARLAND Photographer Travel Spotlight

“I may be biased, but the Pacific Northwest has the most outstanding breweries and overall beer scene. No matter how many breweries I visit, there always seems to be a new one somewhere within driving distance that I haven’t tried yet. Maybe it’s the fact that the majority of the hops grown on this continent come from the Yakima Valley region, maybe it’s our superior water supply, or possibly the farmto-fermenter mentality of our brewers, but there is no greater place than here to be a craft beer fan.” (pg. 20)

“Like so many others, I found myself spending more time in the kitchen during the COVID-19 pandemic. I grew up baking with my mom, so there was a certain amount of comfort in measuring ingredients and licking spoons before delivering home-baked treats to my friends. I met Tiffany at a holiday party last year, and as soon as I heard her story, I felt a kinship—she also got into baking as a form of connecting with others. Turns out, the secret to great cookies is top-notch ingredients and a whole lot of love.” (pg. 44)

“In writing about some of Washington’s lesser-known counties, my purpose wasn’t to draw more attention to these parts of the state. Instead, I wanted to spotlight the people who provide such great food and drinks from those places, as well as give a nod of respect to those lands and waters that provide the bounty in the first place.” (pg. 60)

“As a lover of dogs and the outdoors, and always excited to explore the world around me, I happily escaped Seattle for the day to Guemes Island and the Dog Woods. Walking the trails after learning the Indigenous history of the island, my mind wandered to the Salish woolly dog that ran these lands and the Indigenous people that cared for them and sheared their woolly coats. My hope as a photographer was to show the beauty of this place, the animals I met, and to honor the history that makes Dog Woods so special.” (pg. 76)

Jackie Dodd is a writer, photographer and cookbook author serving up beer-infused recipes in Seattle.

Rachel Gallaher is a freelance writer and editor living in Seattle. Her work has appeared in GRAY, Dwell, Architectural Digest, The Seattle Times, and Azure, among other publications.

8 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

Daniel O’Neil writes about and photographs the Pacific Northwest. He’s originally from Portland and now lives on the north Oregon Coast with his family and Shiba dogs.

Alex Garland is a Seattle-based freelance photographer and writer. His current focus is environmental features for the South Seattle Emerald and working on his photo book of Western Washington water with Coast Salish writer and poet Nahaan.

EDITOR

Kevin Max

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Allison Bye

WEB MANAGER SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER

Aaron Opsahl Joni Kabana

OFFICE MANAGER

Cindy Miskowiec

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Jenny Kamprath

BEERVANA COLUMNIST

Jackie Dodd

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Cathy Carroll, Melissa Dalton, Rachel Gallaher, Ellen Hiatt, Joni Kabana, Lauren Kramer, Kerry Newberry, Daniel O’Neil, Ryn Pfeuffer, Lauren Purdy, Ben Salmon, Jen Sotolongo, Cara Strickland, Corinne Whiting

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Jackie Dodd, Miranda Estes, Alex Garland, James Harnois, Peter Mahar, Shannon Mahre

CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS

Kate Wong

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OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 9

FROM THE

EDITOR

MOST PEOPLE NEED no reminding that fall in Washington brings out the best—the best weather, the best bounty, the best fresh hops, the best wine events—the best chances to reconnect with the love of your life with no kids in sight. Begin this issue with a deep dive into three Washington counties where the fall months mean harvest of apples for cider, of grapes for wine, of oysters for shucking and of hops for fresh-hop drinking. Writer Daniel O’Neil takes us into Pacific, Klickitat and Chelan counties for a wholesome journey into nature’s fall production. Turn to page 60 to learn how you can take part in this phenomenon. Is this the year you ditch the fear and learn how to hunt and identify edible wild mushrooms? It doesn’t take much more than a reliable book and an experienced guide like Julie H. Case. Think morels, chanterelles and many other fungi hiding in plain sight for those who come with a little knowledge and a sense of adventure. Save some morels to make a day’s end Shroom Raider Cocktail (pg. 26).

10 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

Our Trip Planner (pg. 86) takes us to a fruitforward region of Lake Chelan. Arguably its better season, fall is when Lake Chelan is ripest. From fresh apple cider to wine tastings and touring the lake from the aft of the Lady of the Lake, this season has the right din (and fewer kin) for most visitors. Let’s not stop with concern for our own species, however—the people at the Orca Conservancy don’t. They are working with other conservation groups to try to reverse the culling of the Orca pod, known as the Southern Residents, who live exclusively on salmon, many of which come from the mouth of the Chehalis River. All they ask for is cool, clean water and chinook for sustenance. Read about and support their efforts on page 52. If you live east of the Cascades, treat yourself to a weekend at the Historic Davenport Hotel in Spokane (pg. 84). The Spanish Renaissance architecture of the lobby, the frescoes, the Tiffany glass atrium and the Venetian-era furniture will sweep you away from present day to a time where all that mattered was a cocktail and a kiss. Cheers!

1889 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Washington content www.1889mag.com | #1889washington | @1889washington

WASHINGTON: IN FOCUS Have a photo that captures your Washington experience? Share it with us by filling out the Washington: In Focus form on our website. If chosen, you’ll be published here. www.1889mag.com/in-focus photo by Jeff Liska As the sun came up and the clouds started to part, I was rewarded with this view of Mount Constance and the Hood Canal.

SHOP LOCAL Stop by Local, our curated online shop of goods made by businesses in the Pacific Northwest. Find outdoor gear, specialty foods and more. Or show your state pride with 1889 T-shirts, hats and other apparel. Buy local. Feel good. www.1889mag.com/ shop

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

E NTUR E V D A MAIL

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1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

FOOD + DRINK 20 FARM TO TABLE 24 HOME + DESIGN 30 MIND + BODY 38 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 40

pg. 23 Discover tasty goods from the hands of Celeste Shaw-Coulston’s Cafe Coco and Chaps in Spokane.

Ari Nordhagen/Amen Photography

SAY WA? 14

Enjoy Olympic Peninsula • Explore • Relax

• Reconnect

Enjoy iet u Q e th n Seaso

A Bounty of Experiences and miles of memories await on the Olympic Peninsula.

From Sea -to -Summit & Canal -to -Coast www.EnjoyOlympicPeninsula.com

say wa?

Tidbits + To-dos written by Lauren Purdy

Dave Vann

Taco & Tamale Trail

Witches Tea at Hotel Sorrento Come get spooky this October at Seattle’s most haunted hotel. Located at the northwest corner of Madison Street and Terry Avenue on lower First Hill in Seattle, the Hotel Sorrento opened just in time for the AlaskaYukon-Pacific Exposition of 1909 and has been open ever since. Visitors and guests can enjoy the Hotel Sorrento’s Witches Tea this October 13 to celebrate the scariest season of all—cast spells and enjoy delicious food, live music and more in the historic Fireside Room. Costumes and hexes encouraged. www.hotelsorrento.com/happenings

r ou R k y DA r ma EN

www.visityakima.com/yakima-valley-passportstaco-and-tamale-trail.asp

CA mark LE you ND r AR

Yakima Valley Tourism

Discover Central Washington’s vibrant Hispanic heritage through Yakima Valley’s Taco & Tamale Trail. Created with assistance from the Central Washington Hispanic Chamber of Commerce to amplify Hispanicowned businesses, cultures and culinary traditions, visitors can savor authentic flavors while collecting points for prizes along the way. Participants earn the chance to win a VIP package to Yakima Taco Fest in May 2024, including a two-night hotel voucher. Kick off your journey by downloading the mobile-exclusive passport online.

Catch the Crush Savor the best of Washington wine country at Catch the Crush harvest celebration throughout October. The regional festival features events across Wapato, Zillah, Sunnyside, Prosser and Benton City and showcases the finest of Washington wine. Crush events at wineries include Owen Roe’s guided tasting, Freehand Cellars’ grape stomp, and the art and science of making wine hosted at Dineen Cellars. Explore all crush offerings online. www.visityakima.com/wineevent-catch-the-crush.asp

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

say wa?

Enely Voelker

Kira Baron Photography

Fresh Hop Festival Celebrate autumn in Washington with a fresh hopped brew at Yakima’s Fresh Hop Ale Festival, featuring more than seventy breweries, wineries and cideries; live music; and local bites. Fresh Hop Ale Festival brings beer lovers from all over the world to the beautiful Yakima Valley, which produces more than 70 percent of our nation’s hops and is second only to Germany in overall production. Each brewery submits a beer into judging, and winners are announced through the event. Additional tasting tokens, merchandise and food can be purchased on site at the October 7 event. www.freshhopalefestival.com

CAmark y LEN our DA R

TIDAL+

Rooted in Central American and Catholic traditions, Día de los Muertos— Day of the Dead—honors los muertos and the beauty of life. Each year Tieton Arts & Humanities creates a community altar and invites participants to commemorate their loved ones that have passed. Visitors can add photos, write messages, and bring mementos, candies or breads. The celebration includes traditional sweet sugar skulls, bright colors and bitter-smelling cempazuchitl (calendula, or marigold) flowers evoking vibrant, ephemeral life and bitter, inevitable death—embracing both. Festivities open October 29 from noon to 5 p.m. Entry is free.

This fall, cozy up at Seattle’s TIDAL+ and enjoy sustainable, ocean-conscious seafood. Starting in October, diners can enjoy a pretheater dinner special for two guests, which includes a three-course meal, a bottle of Canvas wine and parking for the duration of a show at the nearby Paramount Theatre. Reservations available online.

CA mark LE you ND r

www.tietonarts.org/ddlm

Día de los Muertos

www.hyatt.com/en-US/hotel/washington/ hyatt-at-olive-8/seahs/dining

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

say wa?

Musician

Life’s a swivel

Once a drummer, Brendan Regan embraces the guitar as a rhythm instrument and his life as a lyrical well.

Seattle’s Brendan Regan writes dusky folk songs about the past, present and future written by Ben Salmon

Listen on Spotify

THE STORY of how Brendan Regan started writing his own songs almost sounds like a great Pacific Northwest music myth. He grew up in Ohio and spent time in Denver before landing in Seattle in the mid-2000s, where he played drums in a couple of rock bands. One early morning after a show, while unloading his drums in a heavy downpour, he realized he didn’t want to play them anymore. The next day, he sold his drum kit and bought a guitar. Then, the songs started pouring out of him. “I’d never written songs, just chord progressions,” he said. “I’d never sung, and while I’d performed plenty in bands, I’d never performed on guitar or vocals.” That was fifteen years ago. In August, Regan released his new album, swivel, an eight-song collection of rich, dusky indie-folk that showcases not only Regan’s compositional skills but also how they reflect his background as a percussionist. “(That) makes me more interested in the rhythm and groove of a song than the average singer-songwriter,” he said. “I came to the acoustic guitar as a rhythm instrument more than a melodic one, and I think that shows in my playing and arrangements.” 16

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

Also evident in Regan’s music: a long-standing interest in Celtic music that surfaces most often in his vocals (he released an EP of traditional Irish tunes in 2019), as well as a plaintive, almost world-weary quality that permeates every song on swivel. The first lines on the first track, “Trigger Town,” set the tone for the record: “I am right now this previous young man bursting at the seams I am right now this tired old man full of memories I am right now two people at once; how can that be?” The songs on swivel were written over many years and they find Regan processing a variety of significant live phases and events: growing older, having children, watching those children grow older, new passions, past regrets, existential dread and longing for simpler times, not to mention the “frustration and fear and isolation” of the COVID-19 pandemic, he said. This subject matter—pushed along by his propulsive acoustic grooves—gives Regan’s songs a feeling of weight and gravity that feels highly relatable and deeply resonant. “We swing back and forth between the past and the future,” he said. “It seems unavoidable, so maybe the record is ultimately about seeking balance.”

say wa?

Kevin O’Brien has served on the board of literacy organization Seattle 7 Writers and teaches writing at Hugo House in Seattle.

Bibliophile

Shocking Reveals Seattle’s Kevin O’Brien seems destined to write suspense novels interview by Cathy Carroll

SEATTLE AUTHOR Kevin O’Brien has been likened to Alfred Hitchcock, one of his heroes. His new thriller, The Enemy at Home, is set in Seattle, where he has lived since 1980. It is his twenty-third novel. 18

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

What prompted you to set the novel in World War II-era Seattle? About ten years ago, I got an idea for a thriller set during World War II with a Jack-the-Ripper type targeting Rosie the Riveters. But my editor felt the timing wasn’t ideal. My contemporary thrillers set in Seattle were selling quite well, and my readership expected more of the same. Still, I never let go of the idea. During the pandemic, I took a year off and researched life in Seattle during World War II. It was a huge defense industry town. There were blackouts and air raid drills. JapaneseAmericans on the West Coast lost their homes and livelihoods when they were shipped off to internment camps. Women taking jobs at Boeing and the shipyards faced all sorts of challenges. All the while, there was the very real danger that Seattle might be bombed or invaded. Now, throw a serial killer into the mix (thirty years before the term “serial killer” was coined), and you have a very intense story. This time around, my editor gave the project an enthusiastic green light. And I’m very glad he did. I’ve written twenty-three thrillers, and The Enemy at Home is one of my personal favorites. What’s your process for devising a keep-you-guessingto-the-end novel? Once I get an idea for a thriller, I start jotting down long, rambling notes. Then I write a rough outline, which reads like a condensed Reader’s Digest version of the book. It usually runs about eighty pages. I submit a polished version of that

outline to my editor, and pray he gives it his thumbs up. Once that happens, I get my advance money and go to work on the book. So, I always know whodunnit and why before I start writing the actual book. But as I write, there are usually some fun surprises along the way. Best of all, because I already have my notes and outline, I know where I’m going and never have to face that awful blank page. What inspires your thrillergenre bent? Maybe it has something to do with my remote connection to the most famous murder of the twentieth century (You’ll have to check the bio page of my website to find out about that: www.kevinobrienbooks.com/ about). But ever since I was a kid, I’ve enjoyed scaring myself. I used to watch Thriller, The Twilight Zone, One Step Beyond and all those scary TV shows. Then I’d be too terrified to sleep. I even kept a baseball bat by my bedside. At the time, my oldest sister was afraid to take a shower if she was the only one at home. I found out it was because of an Alfred Hitchcock movie, Psycho. It was years before I finally saw Psycho on late night TV, but by then I was a total Hitchcock fan. When I took a creative writing class at Marquette University in Milwaukee, the teacher, author Anne Powers, told me that my writing reminded her of her friend Robert Bloch’s stories. “You mean, Robert Bloch, who wrote Psycho?” I replied. Yes, indeed, Psycho was based on the notorious Ed Gein case, which occurred in Wisconsin. I guess I was just destined to write scary books.

B A I N B R I D G E I S L A N D , WA

# b a i n b r i d g e h o l i d ay s

Starry Nights

Tis the season to plan to stay. book now at ba i n bridge isla ndholiday s. com

food + drink

Beervana

Beer and Pizza That Resonates written and photographed by Jackie Dodd

NESTLED WITHIN a modest strip mall in Bellevue sits a brewery you want to root for. It’s great beer and pizza, trivia nights and shared tables, kid friendly with a pup-welcoming patio, although plenty of places hit those notes. What makes Resonate Brewery in the Newport Hills neighborhood more than just that? Almost a decade ago, Mike Ritzer—armed with a prestigious brewing education from the Siebel Institute in Chicago and an expanding collection of homebrew awards— embarked on a journey to open up shop. Despite facing numerous setbacks spanning nearly four years, Ritzer’s determination bore fruit as the doors swung open and local patrons began to gather around the bar and at shared tables. In the ensuing years, Resonate Brewery weathered a rollercoaster of highs and lows—from health scares to coveted beer awards, personal struggles to professional triumphs, and then the unforeseen curveball of a pandemic. 20

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

food + drink

AT LEFT Pizza and beer are a winning combo at Bellevue’s Resonate Brewery. ABOVE, FROM LEFT The brewery’s Lithium German-style altbier snagged a gold at the 2022 Great American Beer Festival. Resonate’s pizza dough goes through a several-day fermentation cycle to achieve its texture.

Cocktail Card

The inspiration behind this cocktail was to take a classic gin gimlet and find a balance between savory, sweet and tart, creating a more complex and nuanced version of a classic.

recipe courtesy of Rock and Rye Oyster House / BELLINGHAM

• 1 ounce Gabriel Boudier Saffron Gin • ¾ ounce gin (any in a London dry style)

Spice Baron

• ¾ ounce fresh lemon juice • ½ ounce orange-zested simple syrup • 6 large basil leaves, torn

Combine ingredients with ice in a cocktail shaker. Shake, and strain into glass. Garnish with a basil leaf.

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

Photo: Lorraine Sullivan

award—the equivalent of an Oscar in the Adapting to the pandemic-induced conbeer world. The pizza is also worth travstraints, Ritzer ingeniously introduced inRESONATE BREWERY eling for. I recently took a friend—a chef novative concepts like par-baked pizzas for 5606 119TH AVE. SE, STE. A who lived in Italy, wrote a best-selling pasta takeaway and streamlined online ordering. BELLEVUE cookbook and has done stints on the Food As the world tentatively emerged from www.resonatebrewery.com Network—to try the pizza. When asked lockdowns and a semblance of normality What to Know: her opinion, this notoriously picky pizza returned, the craft beer industry grappled • Kid-friendly • Dog-friendly, all-weather patio snob remarked, “It’s actually really good. with its own shifts and sags. Drinkers dis• Open 11 a.m.-10 p.m. daily The crust is great, I’m impressed.” High sipating in favor of other adult beverage • Happy hour daily 9 p.m.-close praise from someone who isn’t shy about offerings, leaving places like Resonate to and weekdays 3-5:30 p.m. pizza opinions. rethink their original ten-year plans. But Great beer, check. Great food, check. what makes this place—what makes ResoSpace you want to hang out in, check. It’s nate a brewery that will outlive the closures we’re seeing across craft beer over the past year? When the craft on the rustic side of comfortable, a place that’s easy to take the beer space was booming and thriving one had to merely show family but also great for after-work drinks. There is the requisite up with food and adequate beer to survive. Today, the bar is trivia night (Tuesdays) and various other events throughout the higher, demanding excellence across the board—a trait Ritzer year. So what is next for Resonate, once pegged as a franchise in has embodied from the outset. the making? “A goal of growing into a regional-sized brewery is Even before its official opening, Resonate Brewery’s beers not as appealing as it once sounded,” Ritzer said. Resonate will began amassing awards, a trend that continued unabated, with continue to be thoughtful about their beer and food offerings, triumphs resonating nationwide. This journey culminated in cautiously optimistic as they move forward in a changing landthe pinnacle of beer accolades, a Great American Beer Festival scape. In a way, it’s what they’ve always done.

Photos: Salty Seattle

food + drink

CRAVINGS BAVARIAN FOOD Leavenworth treasure Andreas Keller Restaurant has been a staple of Bavarian food since it opened in 1989. The original owner, David Forchemer, joined with chef Anita, a German immigrant and eventually his daughter Heidi, who took over restaurant ownership in 1995 to create a special place with all of the old world charm of Leavenworth, but also highquality food, live music and a selection of imported beers on draft. 829 FRONT ST. LEAVENWORTH www.andreaskellerrestaurant.com

AMERICAN FUSION Food truck-turned-restaurant The Red Pickle is a family-friendly neighborhood watering hole featuring craft cocktails and equally crafted food with some international flair (with a strong Mexican emphasis). Try the buffalo shrimp adobo, chorizo burger or the salmon fish and chips. 301 N. PINE ST. ELLENSBURG www.theredpickleeburg.com

INDIAN FOOD Croissant-shaped gnocchi made by Ukrainian refugees in Seattle.

Gastronomy

Salty Seattle written by Cara Strickland IF YOU’VE EVER wished that pasta could be in a rainbow of colors, without using artificial dyes, you would probably get along well with Linda Miller Nicolson, who created Salty Seattle in order to combine a love of color with a love of pasta. Beyond color, Nicolson takes it a step further with fun shapes that will delight both children and adults. Her latest offering is croissant-shaped gnocchi, which comes in a vibrant palette and offers the most delightful texture experience. Though you could only get these Instagram-worthy pastas online, as of this fall, you can find the croissant gnocchi (formerly known as crocchi) at all PCC Markets, in the frozen section. Another bonus, all these little gnocchi are handmade by Ukrainian refugees in Seattle. GREATER SEATTLE AREA + ONLINE www.saltyseattle.com

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

Get all your taste buds dancing with a visit to Walla Walla Indian Cuisine. It is known for its North Indian food, presented in a lunch buffet, full dinner service with a full bar, take-out and delivery (plus catering). Be sure to try the biryani. 12 E. MAIN ST. WALLA WALLA Walla Walla Indian Cuisine on Facebook

NATIVE AMERICAN FOOD When you feel like something comforting, but you still want it to be unique, check out Indigenous Eats, specializing in Native American cuisine. You can build your own entree: a frybread taco, rice bowl or totchos (with tater tots, but you can also do a corn chip base). Choose your toppings, including beans; bison, beef or chicken; an array of veggies; cheese; and a few Mexican flavors, and add a sauce. Don’t forget the huckleberry lemonade. 829 E. BOONE AVE. 808 W. MAIN AVE. SPOKANE www.iespokane.com

food + drink

BEST PLACES FOR

SOUP You’re probably familiar with hot pot, a communal way of eating that involves throwing things into soup together and enjoying the alchemy. This delightful Seattle spot offers Thai-style hot pot, which starts with a mild broth that gets more complex as you go through the evening and comes with an array of sauces. Feel free to try their other small plate options and craft cocktails, too. 1806 12TH AVE. SEATTLE www.morfireseattle.com

Photos: Ari Nordhagen/Amen Photography

MORFIRE

SOULFUL SOUPS AND SPIRITS For nearly twenty years, this downtown location has been serving a regularly rotating selection of soups. (Most are thickened with corn starch, so they are naturally gluten free.) Don’t miss the house-made beer bread, and if you’re in the mood for something else, you can get a croissant sandwich or a salad. During the day, enjoy counter service, but at night, you can get a full-service experience (along with a full bar). 117 N. HOWARD ST. SPOKANE www.soulful-soups.com

THE SOUP NAZI KITCHEN This tongue-in-cheek restaurant is perfect for those who like a little humor alongside their soup, and other Seinfeld-inspired food and drinks (choose from salads, snacks, desserts and more, including Festivus drinks). Don’t miss the 36-hour simmered chicken soup, but you might also be tempted by the salmon stew. 2808 HOYT AVE. EVERETT www.soupnazikitchen.com

YI’S TRADITIONAL KOREAN BEEF SOUP The heart of this restaurant is all in the name. Choose from a variety of soups, including longcooked oxtail, along with other Korean favorites. Dine in for an immersive cultural experience, or order takeout to bring the flavors home. Be sure to bring your appetite or prepare for leftovers, as the portions are generous. 31248 PACIFIC HIGHWAY S. FEDERAL WAY 253-946-1101

Dining

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The highly sought blueberry muffin French toast. Chaps and Cafe Coco owner Celeste ShawCoulston. Inside downtown’s Cafe Coco on Main Street.

Chaps and Cafe Coco written by Cara Strickland CELESTE SHAW-COULSTON is many things, but first and foremost, she’s a person who values family, even if it isn’t her own. On a busy morning in her restaurant, you might think she knows everyone, and everyone who knows her feels like a friend. A well-fed friend. Her restaurant, Chaps, is known for brunch lines down the block on Saturday and Sunday (but the team works like a well-oiled machine to make sure it all goes smoothly). Taste her blueberry muffin French toast, which is a family recipe handed down by the grandmother who raised her. Though she also owns a vintage shop, and has had a range of projects over the years, the newest one is a cafe in the heart of downtown called Cafe Coco. It’s named for her 3-year-old granddaughter, and celebrates the love she has for her family and also the miracle of life—Coco’s birth wasn’t easy and there have been health challenges. Enjoy coffee, light lunch fare, and delicious baked goods made by the famed Chaps bakery. CHAPS: 4237 S. CHENEY-SPOKANE ROAD CAFE COCO: 24 W. MAIN ST. SPOKANE www.chapsgirl.com

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farm to table

Farm to Table

Foraging for Fungi Follow in the footsteps of keen mycological adventurers written by Corinne Whiting

NO DOUBT, Mother Nature moves in mysterious ways. All around us, for example, mycelium—a network of single-cell threads—creates a symbiotic relationship with surrounding trees and other organic matter. When conditions prove just right, and sufficient nutrients exist, mushrooms (also known as the “fruit” of the mycelium) emerge above the earth’s surface. Washington state has one of the world’s most expansive and diverse selection of mushrooms, and the autumn is a prime time to forage here. Many mushrooms pop up after a solid rainfall, which lures enthusiastic hunters out onto hopeful hikes. (Foragers should always carry a mushroom identification guide with them, and first study up on the ethics, risks and regulations of each region, too.)

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Writer Julie H. Case, a former Seattle resident for seventeen years, cut her teeth foraging in the Pacific Northwest for burn morels. Today, she chases chanterelles and other treasures across the East Coast, while working on a book about mushrooms and foraging. Case’s fascination dates back prior to her Pacific Northwest days. She found her first morel at the side of a freshly tarred road after exiting the school bus in first grade. “I was hooked,” she recalled. “It wasn’t until I moved to Seattle that I started foraging in earnest, and it’s a hobby (some call addiction) I’ve taken with me across the U.S. and even around the world. Shoot, my dog is even named after a mushroom—Trumpet.” She finds so much to love about foraging that it’s hard to pinpoint a top draw. On one hand, she admits, it’s being outside, and getting to gather her own food to feed people she loves. “But in large part, I love the hunt,” she added. “I love diving into maps to identify what I think will be prime terrain, then getting to the woods and walking stealthily, looking hard for those forest treats.” Folks learn the ropes through various methods. Case has been a hobbyist forager for decades, initially learning from her best friend, Jim. She then expanded on that knowledge by collecting different mushrooms, doing spore prints on them and comparing them to identification keys. In the spring of 2023, she paired all that firsthand knowledge with some “hardcore study” to earn her Wild Mushroom Identification and Food Safety certification, which allows her to now sell wild foraged mushrooms in numerous states. Washington proves a prime state for foraging, since one can rely on its precipitation to help many of the prized edible mushroom species to fruit. During spring in the Northwest, Case loves to hunt the previous year’s wildfire locations for morel. “In summer, if I’m lucky,” she continued, “I’m looking for boletes not too far from Stevens Pass. Come fall, it’s chanterelle season, and I usually head down toward Mount Rainier or out around the Hood Canal for those.” Another fall favorite is matsutake, which can be hard to find and doesn’t have great flushes every year. But when they do, Case enjoys scouring for them in lodgepole or ponderosa pine, fir and hemlock forests. For newbies wanting to dive into this activity, Case suggests joining your local mycological society (like the Puget Sound Mycological Society). It’s also wise to pick up a great guidebook, like All That the Rain Promises and More by David Arora. “But maybe more importantly,” she advised, “don’t hesitate to pick mushrooms you don’t know and bring them home to identify by spore prints, and keying them out. No mushroom is toxic to the touch, though there are mushrooms in the Pacific Northwest that are deadly to eat.” That said, she says it’s best to keep your known edible mushrooms separate from those unknown. Case’s favorite culinary creations to tackle after her gatherings are hard to rank. “Where to begin?” she asks. “There are so many.” (Occasionally, she posts recipes on www.soigather.com.) She makes a killer black trumpet white pizza. Her dad likes morels dusted in flour and fried in butter (though she’s been known to stuff and roast them). She also fesses up to having a fairly

Photos: Julie H. Case

farm to table

FAR LEFT The aptly named oyster mushroom can be found clinging on trees throughout Washington. ABOVE, FROM TOP A small haul of coveted morel mushrooms. Julie H. Case, mushroom hunter and certified identifier.

amazing chanterelle salad recipe. “Pretty much, I’ll make anything with mushrooms,” she said. One of Case’s easy, go-to dishes, especially when holding a big batch of mushrooms she’s simply wanting “to get into a friend’s mouth while they are still excited,” is a quick mushroom toast. The recipe involves no more than toasted bread, sauteed mushrooms, a little deglaze of the pan and maybe a binder like cream or a bit of cream cheese. “It’s a great way to introduce people to a mushroom,” she said. Most of all, Case offers budding foragers this simple piece of wisdom: “Mushrooms are everywhere; have fun learning them.” While Case is hard at work on her book about mushrooms and foragers, you can follow along with her adventures at www.soi gather.com, or find her other articles at www.juliehcase.com. MORE INSIDE

Read more about foraging opportunities in Washington on pg. 55.

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Washington Recipes

The Magic Mushroom Menu Shroom Raider Cocktail

Nick Mautone, mixologist and author YIELDS 1 COCKTAIL FOR THE MOREL SEA SALT • 5-6 dried morel mushrooms • 1 tablespoon gray sea salt, plus more to taste FOR THE COCKTAIL • 5-6 dried morel mushrooms • 3 ounces mezcal • ½ ounce Dolin blanc vermouth • ½ ounce agave nectar or simple syrup • 3 dashes Scrappy’s aromatic bitters • Olive oil (for rimming the glass) • Morel sea salt (for rimming the glass) (see recipe) FOR THE MOREL SEA SALT In a spice grinder, add the ½ ounce dried

Pappardelle with Mushrooms, Kale and Cranberries Princess & Bear Wines / SEATTLE Chef Carol Bailey-Medwell SERVES 4-6 • 5 ounces unsalted butter • 2 large garlic cloves, chopped • 1 cup dried porcini mushrooms soaked in 1/2 cup milk for 30 minutes • 3 cups quartered cremini mushrooms or other fresh mushrooms

Nick Mautone

farm to table

morel mushrooms and 1 tablespoon gray sea salt. Grind to a fine powder, and pour onto flat plate. FOR THE COCKTAIL In a cocktail shaker, add the 5-6 dried morel mushrooms, mezcal, vermouth, agave nectar and bitters. Stir well, cover with plastic wrap and set aside for 10 minutes and up to 24 hours for a more earthy infusion. Dip your finger in the olive oil and rub on the outside lip of the glass, then roll in the morel sea salt. Add 1 large ice cube to the glass. Add ice to the shaker and shake vigorously until the outside of the shaker is frosted and beaded with sweat. Double strain into prepared glass. Garnish with a morel mushroom infused from the cocktail speared on a cocktail pick. Note: You may have extra morel sea salt. Try sprinkling it on chicken, steak or halibut.

• 4 tablespoons Italian parsley, finely chopped • 1 cup dry Languedoc white wine, such as Gypse • ½ cup dried cranberries • 1 pound dried pappardelle noodles • 2 cups kale, coarsely chopped • 1 cup freshly grated Italian Parmesan cheese • 1/2 cup hot pasta water • Sea salt • Black pepper, freshly ground • Additional chopped parsley to garnish Melt 4 ounces butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Cook for 5 to 7 minutes or until melted butter is nut brown in color and very fragrant. Add garlic and stir 1 minute. Then add porcinis with milk and the fresh mushrooms and parsley. Cook while stirring for 3 minutes. Then add the wine and

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Nick Mautone’s Shroom Raider Cocktail.

cranberries. Cook until wine is reduced by half, 5-7 minutes. Remove the saucepan from the heat. Boil pasta in salted water. Toward the end of the pasta cooking time (about 10 to 12 minutes total), return the saucepan to the stove top on medium heat. When the pasta is al dente (with a little crunch left), drain, saving 1 cup of hot pasta water from bottom of pan. Add pasta immediately to the saucepan and toss well with mushroom sauce. Add the kale and cook 5 to 7 minutes or until the kale is wilted. Add 3/4 of the grated Parmesan cheese and toss well. Add 1/4 cup of the pasta water and the remaining ounce of butter and continue to toss rapidly over the heat for 1 to 2 minutes. If the pasta seems too thick, add another 1/4 cup of pasta water and continue to toss vigorously to emulsify the butter, pasta, cheese and water. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a warmed pasta serving bowl. Garnish with remaining Parmesan and parsley and enjoy immediately.

Sunshine for all Seasons!

Filled with natural beauty and small town charm. Fall is a great time to visit Sequim!

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T H E S TAT E O F WA SH I N GT O N

bellingham.org/plan

farm to table

Town & Country Markets / SEATTLE SERVES 2

FOR THE VEGAN REMOULADE SAUCE (OPTIONAL) • 1 cup vegan mayonnaise • 3 tablespoons Creole or whole-grain mustard • 2 tablespoons capers or green olives, chopped • 2 tablespoons thinly sliced green onions • 1 tablespoon minced flat-leaf parsley • ½ teaspoon minced garlic (1 clove) • 1 tablespoon lemon juice • 2 teaspoons Cajun or Creole seasoning • 2 teaspoons Louisiana hot sauce (or more to taste) • 2 teaspoons ketchup or chili sauce • ¼ teaspoon black pepper FOR THE PO’ BOY • ½ pound oyster mushrooms • 1 cup unsweetened alternative milk • 1 tablespoon lemon juice (or apple cider vinegar) • 1 teaspoon Louisiana hot sauce (or more to taste) • 1 tablespoon Cajun seasoning, divided • 3 cups oil for frying • 1 cup flour (AP, whole wheat, spelt, chickpea or gluten-free) • 3 tablespoons cornmeal • 1 tablespoon baking powder • ½ teaspoon salt • ½ teaspoon black pepper • 2 French bread rolls • ½ cup vegan mayonnaise or vegan remoulade sauce (see recipe) • Sliced tomatoes • Shredded iceberg or romaine lettuce • Extra Louisiana hot sauce, optional FOR THE VEGAN REMOULADE SAUCE In a bowl, combine mayonnaise, mustard, capers or olives, green onions, parsley and garlic. Mix well and add lemon juice, seasoning, hot sauce, ketchup and black pepper. Stir very well, adjust seasoning to taste and chill for one hour before serving.

Options: Optional sauce additions could include prepared or fresh grated horseradish, Worcestershire sauce, chopped pickles or cornichons, pickle (dill or sweet) relish, sweet or smoked paprika, cayenne or chili powder. FOR THE PO’ BOY Clean mushrooms with a dry towel or brush. Cut off any woody stem ends and separate into 3- to 4-inch sections. In a large bowl, combine alternative milk, lemon juice, hot sauce and half of Cajun seasoning, and mix well. Add mushroom sections and allow to marinate for 30 minutes. In a large deep skillet, begin heating oil for frying. Oil temperature should be 350 degrees when tested with a thermometer. Another way to check when oil is ready is to stick a wooden skewer or dowel in the oil, and when bubbles form around the wood, the oil is ready. In another bowl, combine flour, cornmeal, baking powder, salt and pepper. Mix to combine. One at a time, take a mushroom section out of the wet mixture and place into dry mixture. Toss section around until fully coated (pressing some of the dry mixture into the crevices of the mushroom section to create more crunch) then place on a plate. When all mushroom sections are coated, place about half in hot oil and fry for about 2 minutes per side until browned and crispy. Remove to paper towel, sprinkle liberally with more Cajun seasoning and repeat for the remaining mushroom sections. Assemble sandwiches by spreading mayonnaise or the prepared remoulade on both sides of rolls, then layering tomatoes, fried mushroom sections and shredded lettuce. Add a few dashes of hot sauce if desired. Options: Substitute oyster mushrooms for maitake, chanterelle, sliced portabella or other large mushrooms. You could also substitute with sliced and pressed firm tofu, seitan strips or chunks, cauliflower sections or even eggplant slices. Weight differences will mean you have to eyeball how much to use for each different substitution. You can also use a cooked alternative breaded meat cutlet or nuggets.

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Brittany Kelley Photography

Vegan Oyster Mushroom Po’ Boy

farm to table

Town & Country Markets’ Vegan Oyster Mushroom Po’ Boy sandwiches.

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home + design Integrated rooftop gardens are just one way architects and owners collaborated to maintain a culture of farming and conservation.

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home + design

Because It Rains Gardens and green space become part of the architecture in this recently completed Seattle townhome project written by Melissa Dalton | photography by Miranda Estes TED PEDERSON was 5 years old when his father, a builder and Norwegian transplant in Seattle, gave him his first job: to collect loose nails from the construction site, and straighten the steel if they were bent so they could be reused. (This was during the Korean War, so saving steel scraps was a necessity.) “I guess I’ve been doing it ever since,” said Pederson of working in construction. He

went on to build his first house in Rainier Beach at 16 years old, and eventually started his own company, called Pederson Classic Homes, which he still runs today at age 77. By 2015, Pederson was getting a lot of letters in the mail about one particular property he owned with his siblings: a 0.39-acre lot with an old farmhouse on it that the family had inherited from their father. They had grown up next door to the property, and for decades, Pederson’s father tended a large personal garden on the land, growing everything from typical summer vegetables to apple and plum trees, and grapevines, and donating his produce to food banks. Fitting, as the area, located in Rainier Valley and now referred to as the Othello neighborhood for the light rail station built in 2009, was previously “considered farmland,” said Pederson, on the fringe of the city.

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home + design

The three-story townhomes with terraces on each level fit in nicely in Seattle’s Othello neighborhood.

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home + design

Permeable pavers were chosen for the driveways to act as a water filtration system.

The neighborhood has always drawn immigrants—today, more than forty languages are spoken there—and construction, especially of multi-family housing, has increased with the swells of population. As the farmland has disappeared, developers were petitioning the Pederson family to sell their plot. “We decided, why sell the property when we can develop it?” said Pederson. “We wanted it to be something that would stay in the neighborhood with the family name, with a garden attached to it because of my father. We wanted to leave a legacy for the neighborhood and because that’s where we all grew up.” Pederson reached out to local architecture and landscape studio Wittman Estes for the design. “Ted asked for a very landscape-based plan honoring the area’s farm origins and his roots,” said architect Matt Wittman, co-founder of the firm alongside Jody Estes. “He reached out to us for our ecological and gardenoriented approach to site design and housing.” The firm’s reputation for seamlessly intertwining buildings and green spaces spans across typologies, from single-family homes to Pederson’s project: eleven three-story townhomes with gardens integrated at every level. The design team started by stepping back the townhome facades, in order to keep the scale of the neighborhood intact, and so as not to let the buildings loom over the sidewalk. “Most

nearby multifamily buildings have a blank face to the street— we wanted to create something that was more welcoming and neighborhood friendly,” said Wittman. “We have terraces at every level, where people can hang out, feel protected, sit on the porch and meet their neighbors. It’s healthy for the social fabric, and also good for safety to have eyes on the street and engagement with the neighborhood.” Garden spaces are intertwined at every floor, from a streetlevel bed that provides a buffer between house and sidewalk and screens lower-level windows, to planters on intermediate balconies and additional planter beds crowning the roof. Even serviceable areas, like driveways and parking pads were utilized for green space, receiving permeable pavers for water filtration. One corner of the property is set up as a shared community garden space. In a climate like Seattle’s, the rain is non-negotiable, so the project’s tagline became: “Because it rains.” “Seattle has more than 150 rainy days a year, with an average rainfall of 34 inches,” said Wittman. “We made a holistic building strategy that mitigates water runoff and embraces the presence of water in the buildings themselves.” To do so, the garden bed design captures runoff on the roof and sieves it through the bioretention planters downstream, OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

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home + design

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home + design

AT LEFT Large windows bring natural light into living spaces. ABOVE Stainless steel and wood staircases add durability but with a classic style.

collecting more than 172,000 gallons a year that then gets filtered and used for irrigation. While the design included planting the beds with native and edible species, and four seasons of outdoor color and texture, the residents can also flex their green thumbs, like Pederson’s father decades before, which has proved popular since the project was completed in 2021. “Nature-based solutions are often sought by people living in the city,” said Wittman. “This project proves your home living environment can be highly connected to the outdoors and more garden-oriented, even though it’s in the city. It shows how a stormwater mandate can be shifted to a more personal enjoyment of gardening and being outdoors.” The second part of Pederson’s brief was to include durability inside and out, which the design team responded to by specifying brick and steel for the exterior, as well as a streamlined material palette with wood floors, wood and steel staircases, and big windows on the interior. “We wanted it to still look good years from now,” said Pederson. “It’s easy to throw up a shoebox, but that’s not what we wanted our legacy to be.” OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

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how the hose line will run through the landscape. Adding a warm water line potentially requires patching into the home’s existing plumbing lines, therefore also affecting the location of the outdoor shower. PRIVACY With the potential location in mind, stand in the spot and evaluate sightlines to the street, neighbors and other areas of the yard. Plan for an enclosure, such as cedar and corrugated metal walls, to ensure privacy. SUPPORT Perhaps an enclosure is unnecessary because you live in the country, but the shower head and shut-off valve will still need to be mounted to something, like an exterior wall or a support post. A 10-foot-tall 4x4 cedar post sunk into a concrete footer would work as a post. Great for cooling off on hot days, the DIY outdoor shower.

DIY

Outdoor Shower WE’RE ALREADY looking ahead to next summer, thinking about how hot summer days call for cold showers—even better if the shower can be outside in your own backyard. While homemade cold plunge pools have become increasingly popular, their installation can be more complicated, needing an electrical line and a chiller for the dunking water. Alternatively, simple outdoor showers are a lot more straightforward, and installation can be completed over a weekend. See our guide below: Note: Always check with your local building permit office to see what requirements exist in your area before starting any project. HOT OR COLD? The first consideration when deciding where to place the shower is not necessarily proximity to neighbors or privacy, though of course those are also essential. First decide whether the shower

will be supplied by an existing exterior water spigot, and therefore only have cold water. If so, the shower plumbing would be connected to the spigot via a garden hose, and positioning the shower will depend on spigot location and

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DRAINAGE Next, consider how the wastewater will be drained from the shower. The easiest method is to dig a hole, about 2 feet in circumference and 1-to-2 feet deep, and fill it with gravel. Overlay the gravel with a decorative layer that’s more comfortable to stand on, like teak wood slats; smooth, tumbled river rock; or concrete pavers. SUPPLY LINES For a cold shower, the plumbing assemblage is simple, consisting of a long piece of pipe fitted with 90-degree elbows at either end. At the top, the elbow connects to the shower head. At the bottom of the pipe, the elbow connects to the hose supply line. At the midpoint of the pipe, add a shut-off valve to be able to turn the shower on and off. Seal any joints or connection points.

PNW Blankets

North Drinkware is known for their distinctive glassware that features accurate reproductions of various mountains using USGS data. Now the company is collaborating with Pendleton Woolen Mills in Oregon to apply that data to blankets: check out the Mt. Rainier Forest Blanket, which could double as a topographic map thanks to its detail. www.northdrinkware.com

Eighth Generation has a straightforward motto: support Native artists, as opposed to companies that create products that are “Native-inspired.” The Family Floral Throw Blanket does just that. As part of the Gold Label collection, it’s made of 100 percent Merino wool in their Seattle studio, and designed in collaboration with Kira Murillo, a Shoshone-Bannock artist internationally renowned for her tattoos. www.eighthgeneration.com

The story goes that the founders of Rumpl, the Portlandbased blanket company, were marooned in a van that wouldn’t start in subzero temperatures when they came up with the idea for a “sleeping bag blanket.” After a successful Kickstarter, that idea has grown into a line of everyday blankets that utilizes 100 percent post-consumer recycled materials and innovations in outdoor gear. We’re partial to the Original Puff y Blanket, which is stain and water resistant, comes in a lot of fun designs, and in a pinch, has a built-in clip so it can be used as a cape.

Photo, bottom left: Heather Keeling/Three Gems Creative

www.rumpl.com

In 2015, Jala Smith-Huys took a two-month European sabbatical with her husband and two children, then returned home inspired to start a business inspired by her travels. The result is Seek & Swoon, a collection of cotton knit throw blankets with an array of colorful and geometric designs. Just like a photo montage from a good trip, there’s a story behind every one. www.seekandswoon.com OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

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Photos: courtesy of Heather Nelson

mind + body

Athlete Heather Nelson recently competed on American Ninja Warrior.

Fitness and Finesse Heather Nelson is up for any exhausting challenge written by Lauren Kramer

AS SHE approached her fiftieth birthday two years ago, Heather Nelson was determined to embrace new, athletically challenging feats well beyond her comfort zone. She joined a ninja gym in Bellingham and together with her kids, ages 12 and 15, began tackling obstacle courses where she would scale walls, leap between obstacles, swing, leap, climb and lache. Last year she learned she’d been selected to compete in the television show American Ninja Warrior. An anomaly in her age group, she flew to San Antonio for the taping, competing against kids as young as 15. Nelson was unfazed by the age gap. “I loved the journey of getting to the show, and I loved that I could inspire others by doing this at 50!” Nelson is no stranger when it comes to pushing herself to the edge of her limits. She started out swimming, and swam for her college team at the University of California Davis while studying psychology. She competed in triathlons after that, and then moved to Coloma, California, to become a river rafting guide. At the same time, she joined an adventure racing team, participating in races in Brazil, Fiji, Mexico, Canada and the Yukon between 1998 and 2003. As a member of a four-person team sponsored by Subaru USA, the races involved navigation, running, mountaineering, canoeing, kayaking, swimming and horseback 38

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riding over up to ten days of solid adventure. “In Fiji we had to hack our way through a forest with machetes,” she recalled. “It was fun, challenging, and it makes you realize what you’re made of.” When she met her husband, Brandon, they were both drawn to ultra marathon paddling and competed in the 460-mile Yukon River Quest together and separately. In 2006, Nelson raced the quest solo and broke the women’s record by ten hours, a record that stands to this day. “No one else has come within two hours of it,” she said. The couple moved to Bellingham around that time, and as they grew their family, they transitioned to surf skiing and kayak racing. By that time, Nelson had been paddling for more than fifteen years. She was a good paddler, but she was also well within her comfort zone. And being comfortable athletically made her feel, well, uncomfortable. When Life Force Ninja opened in Bellingham, the Nelson family was the first to sign up for the complex and ever-changing obstacle course, mastery of which calls for strength, balance, agility and courage. “This is a younger person’s sport,” she noted. “A lot of it is just scary, as you’re making big leaps and jumps and flying around the course. But I’ve learned that I’m my strongest when things

mind + body

“This is a younger person’s sport. A lot of it is just scary, as you’re making big leaps and jumps and flying around the course. But I’ve learned that I’m my strongest when things get really hard and I enjoy the challenge of seeing how deep I can dig into myself to find my strength and courage.” — Heather Nelson get really hard, and I enjoy the challenge of seeing how deep I can dig into myself to find my strength and courage. When you put yourself in really challenging situations, it puts everything else in your life in perspective.” Nelson and her kids compete regularly at the Ninja World Championships, which were held in North Carolina this year. “There aren’t many women in my age group doing this at Worlds, but those who are there are amazing, hardcore women,” she said. Her favorite part of the sport is doing it with her children. “I want them to see me doing things that are really hard, and to understand that while there will always be hard paths in life, we shouldn’t be afraid to take on those challenges,” she said. “You get an inner strength from doing something like this, and to know you have it and can persevere through the hard times, is important.” As she heads into her fifty-second year, Nelson is more determined than ever to make sure the next decade is challenging, fun and all about fitness. “Movement is my happy place, and I can’t imagine my life without my training regimen,” she said. “I like to describe myself as training for life. If anyone asked me to compete in a trail run, a bike race, a swim or a Spartan race, I’d be up for it. And if my kids asked me to do something athletic with them, I might not be as fast as them, but I’d be there in a heartbeat.”

Heather Nelson Ninja Warrior

Age: 51 Born: Belmont, California Lives: Bellingham

WORKOUT “I run trails three times a week, kayak three times a week, train at the ninja gym four times a week, and strength train when I can. I train an average of three hours a day.”

NUTRITION “I try to eat healthy, whole foods, and while I don’t follow a specific diet, I tend to eat whatever my body is craving.”

INSPIRATION “Lynn Cox is one of the world’s best open water and cold water swimmers who has long been an inspiration to me. At age 15 she crushed the English Channel Crossing Record, a notoriously hard crossing for swimmers, and in 1987 she swam across the Bering Sea in the middle of the Cold War. She completes all her swims without a wetsuit, and she’s opened my mind to the possibilities beyond conventional sport, and to pushing the limits of your mind and body.”

ABOVE, FROM LEFT Heather Nelson training for Ninja challenge events. Nelson and her kids after a 2022 Spartan race event near Seattle.

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artist in residence

working as a tow truck driver, about to become a repo Glass Feathers and Scales heman,wasrepossessing vehicles and selling drugs on the side.

Coast Salish stories are re-imagined by Lummi glass artist Dan Friday written by Ellen Hiatt

DAN FRIDAY remembers telling Auntie Fran his latest work was at Dale Chihuly’s hot shop, helping the venerated glass artist create his work. “Who?” Fran James wanted to know. “He’s famous. You know … he’s got the eye patch,” Friday told her. “That’s nice. Where’s your work going?” His work? Friday didn’t really make work of his own. He got his start in glass making tchotchkes for gift shops. He discovered the hot shop in Ballard when he was delivering a bag of weed to a friend. Friday had a pretty rough start in life, he said. His widowed mother did her best, but Friday was rebellious and landed on the streets at a young age. A drug addict and dealer,

“What are you guys doing here, man?” he wanted to know. “Glass has that power. It’s so dynamic. It takes team work. It’s fire, molten. It’s so fascinating to watch.” He got a job there fixing equipment, and in six months was training to help blow glass. “I am definitely one of the people you wouldn’t have bet money on back then,” he said. He didn’t have the self esteem to start on his own, and what he perceived as barriers—it costs too much money to blow glass for your own work, and he didn’t have an arts degree— were not convincing to James. Fran James, who died in 2013, and her son, Bill James, hereditary chief of the Lummi Nation, are both master weavers and basket makers whose work is in national galleries. James didn’t buy his excuse. She didn’t have “one of those” degrees, and her work was in the Smithsonian. James, who was known by her Lummi name, Che top ie, and by most people as Auntie Fran, inspired Friday that day to find his own voice in his art.

Glass artist Dan Friday’s bear series is in honor of his family’s crest.

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Photos: courtesy of Dan Friday

artist in residence

ABOVE, LEFT It takes a team of several people to blow glass. Glass artist Dan Friday continues to work as a gaffer for Dale Chihuly’s studio, while assembling a team to create his own designs. ABOVE, TOP RIGHT Bright and shimmering as though running in the Skagit River in times of plenty, glass-blown salmon create a school of art on a gallery wall. In creating the salmon series, Friday chose the salmon as a subject in remembrance of the Coast Salish people’s lives as fishermen, and reliance on the migrating salmon for sustenance and as a focal point of their lives and rituals. “With works like this, I hope to raise awareness as to the state of their fragile existence,” he said. “I believe our fates are intertwined.” ABOVE, BOTTOM CENTER The “baskets” of Friday’s blown glass are translucent representations of the historical baskets of master weaver Fran James. ABOVE, BOTTOM RIGHT James, known in the Lummi Tribe as Auntie Fran to all, was a master weaver whose work is in national collections. Friday wrote: “When I was younger and went to Aunt Fran’s house, it was so comfortable. I think because of all the projects spread about the house, from her loom for mountain goat wool blankets to incredible cedar baskets. Her hands were always moving, from this thing to that. She was a true artist and cultural purveyor. She said, ‘It is our way—we make things.’ She gave me many little things, but her presence was the true gift. She was largely influential in me finding my path in glass.”

His residency at the Burke Museum allowed further study in “Nobody hands you the keys,” he said. “You have to create the historical personal effects of his family and of the Lummi your own way.” It wasn’t long after his talk with Auntie Fran that he came and Coast Salish people. There he saw the reef net anchors that across an injured owl and nursed it back to health. In Coast were discovered in underwater archaeological explorations, Salish culture, an owl can be a harbinger of death, or connect perfectly preserved in testimony of a once thriving industry of his community. you in some ways to your fate. The connection to his history ties him to the people whose “I was at Pilchuck [Glass School], and I had fallen back into drugs. Just being a f*** up,” he said. When he found the owl, shoulders he now stands on. He is acutely aware that even in glass blowing, nothing is done alone. It takes a team of he took it as a sign, and started making one owl MORE ONLINE at least three people to make any blown glass piece, a week. Dan Friday’s work online he said. Even the techniques are passed on. In late summer, Friday passed fourteen years of atFind www.stoningtongallery.com. He wants to take his turn in lifting others up. being sober and off drugs. “When it would have been prudent to turn your back, a lot Being sober—getting sober—requires a lot of introspection, he said. And the making of his glass work has provided the of people helped me out along the way,” he said. “Sometimes same. The correlation, he said, can’t be overstated. He creates people see in you what you can’t see in yourself.” Independent arts curator Tami Landis, sees a phenomenal series of pieces in themes he works in. The bear is a family crest, the owl symbolic to his rebirth, the baskets are contem- artist who deserves more recognition for his work outside of porary interpretations of Auntie Fran’s museum-level work, his home state or the network of gaffers and artists working the reef net stones, or Sxwo’le anchor stones and the salmon in glass. “I think his narrative and Indigenous identity needs to be are part of his heritage. All are contemporary interpretations of his heritage, telling brought to other places,” she said. Friday teaches Native youth glass blowing in classes at Pilthe age-old stories of their lives in a medium not traditional to Native Americans. The fine woolen threads in Auntie Fran’s chuck Glass School, and he recently purchased a retired net fabrics are reproduced through glass; complex inter-woven shed in Lummi intending to recreate the program there. “That’s his drive,” Landis said, “to give back what was given baskets represented in brilliant color. Feathers and scales are to him.” translucent and brilliantly colored. OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

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MY WORKSPACE 48 GAME CHANGER 52

pg. 52 The Orca Conservancy races to save the diminishing pod of killer whales in the Sound.

April Ryan/San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau

STARTUP 44

Feast Your Eyes On This.

www.Visit-Pullman.com

Startup

The Cookie Queen

For Tiffany Lewis, who turned a weekend hobby into a multi-faceted business, baking cookies is a bridge that brings people together written by Rachel Gallaher

Photos: Jocelyn R.C.

FOURTEEN YEARS AGO AGO, Seattleite Tiffany Lewis, founder of the baking company Cookies With Tiffany, arrived in Columbus, Ohio, to start a job in the marketing department at JPMorgan Chase. A graduate of Chapman University—earning a degree in communications with an emphasis in public speaking—Lewis spent the years after college working in various corporate marketing positions before landing a job at Washington Mutual bank (WAMU). “When Chase acquired WAMU, I moved to Ohio for the job,” Lewis said. “It was the middle of winter, I had never been there, and I didn’t know anybody. I would go to work Monday through Friday, and on the weekends, I didn’t know what to do, so I turned back to something that brought me joy when I was growing up— and that was baking cookies.”

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Jocelyn R.C.

Courtesy of Tiffany Lewis

startup

ABOVE, FROM LEFT Tiffany Lewis previously worked with celebrity chef Curtis Stone. Lewis launched Cookies With Tiffany as a way to help build connection and bring joy.

Despite a very social personality and a love for meeting new people, Lewis found that the harsh Midwestern winters made it difficult to pop out and socialize, especially before she’d made friends. “Going to the store was my weekly outing,” she recalled. “It gave me something productive to focus my attention on.” After baking all weekend, Lewis would return to the office on Monday morning with a plate of homemade baked treats— cookies, brownies, granola bars. Instead of just depositing them in the breakroom with a note, Lewis would send out an email to her department offering “cookies for a handshake.” “It got people to my desk,” Lewis said, “and that helped me create a community in Columbus. The cookie broke down barriers, and soon people were saying hello and chatting with me in the halls. I ended up on four recreational volleyball teams through [the sharing of ] cookies!” After two-and-a-half years in Ohio, Lewis moved to California, where her sister was working on a master’s degree, and she decided to pursue a degree at Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Pasadena. At the end of her courses, Australian celebrity chef Curtis Stone’s team called the school looking for an intern, and Lewis landed the gig. “It was an incredible experience,” she said. “I had the opportunity to fly around the world and help with food styling, research and development. That two-month internship turned into a job, and I was with him for almost three years.” After wrapping up her time with Stone, Lewis went freelance, picking up jobs including food styling for television chefs such as Giada De Laurentiis, instructing classes at Sur La Table, and launching The Table Together, a digital platform meant to inspire and encourage people to learn about (and connect through) cooking. “Growing up, our family ate dinner together every night,” Lewis said. “So, for me, food is much more than putting 46

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together something to eat. It’s a form of connection, a way to create memories with people who are important to us.” In 2017, Lewis returned to Seattle, where she worked as the chief operating officer at a local culinary company, developing its cooking classes and helping run the organization. Then in 2020, the COVID-19 pandemic hit. Like many, Lewis was soon out of a job but, once again, found herself with an abundance of time on her hands. “I started thinking, ‘What is something that people need right now?’” Lewis remembers. “We were told to separate and stay apart, and I realized that people needed community, joy and cheer. They needed to know that someone was thinking about them.” Tapping into her network of friends and colleagues, Lewis launched Cookies With Tiffany, offering hand-baked, smallbatch confections. She started by delivering cookies around the Seattle area, and soon the business grew—large companies began placing corporate gift orders, and Lewis developed a shipping program. Two years ago, she started selling at regional farmer’s markets (from Ballard to Issaquah to Mercer Island), and in 2022, Lewis opened a bakeshop in the Madrona neighborhood. In addition to classics such as chocolate chip, snickerdoodle and peanut butter, Cookies With Tiffany offers seasonal specials and holiday-themed flavors (don’t miss the St. Patrick’s Day Lucky Charms cookie)—all of which tap into the childhood nostalgia of baking with grandparents or enjoying a gooey chocolate chip-filled treat fresh from the oven. In June, the company started selling cookies at Mariner’s games, and according to Lewis, they had sold out at every single game so far. “Everybody loves a cookie,” she said. “I’ve never offered a cookie to someone and had them say, ‘No thanks.’ The smile on people’s faces when you hand one over—it’s such a special moment—I love spreading happiness with cookies!”

Jocelyn R.C.

startup

“Growing up, our family ate dinner together every night,” Tiffany Lewis said. “So, for me, food is much more than putting together something to eat. It’s a form of connection, a way to create memories with people who are important to us.”

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my workspace Working from the motto “feeling strong and not in a hurry,” Jessica Lynch knows how to structure her days to include lots of time for taking walks in nature and finding experiences that inspire her screen printing work. For the past twenty-five years, she has lived and worked on Guemes Island, a small island in western Skagit County, accessible by private boat and a ferry out of Anacortes. Lynch landed on Guemes Island after attending the Ringling School of Art in Florida and the California College of Art, returning home to Washington where her parents still live.

Go With the Slow Nature and design come together at Slow Loris on Guemes Island written by Joni Kabana photography by James Harnois 48

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my workspace

IN FO

CUS

See photo more s www.1 online at 8 com/ 89mag. slowlo ris

True to the company motto, Lynch calls her business “Slow Loris,” reflecting a slow-working philosophy by producing unique hand-drawn designs screen printed right there on the island. Lynch works with business partner Arlo Rumpff, a former Alaska fisherman who made a career change and now is a highly skilled screen printer. Their typical workday consists of drawing, painting and printing in the studio. And yes, folding many T-shirts. Slow Loris has many sales outlets, including REI. FAR LEFT At Slow Loris’ studio on Guemes Island, outgoing orders surround a wall display of designs. ABOVE, FROM TOP Arlo Rumpff and Jessica Lynch outside her art studio. Slow Loris team member Dave folds a stack of T-shirts.

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my workspace As one might imagine, deliveries on the island can be daunting, given the remote locale and dependency on boats and ferries. “We often have to rely on a friend’s business in town who has loading docks to receive huge shipments for us on pallets, then we go and retrieve them with a truck and forklift. It’s an entire dance that took awhile to perfect and organize over the years. Receiving 50,000 shirts is a big task.” Yet given the delivery difficulties, Lynch is not deterred to move away from an island that steadily fuels her creativity.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Slow Loris’ “Reflections” design is screen printed on T-shirts. Slow Loris team member Cliff catches a hot tee from the bed dryer. Founder Jessica Lynch in her studio.

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my workspace

Many artists are inspired by nature, and Lynch and her small team carry their daily island discoveries into their art. “Nature always, every day influences us. On walks, I see a shadow I could redraw, birds flying above, the ocean, odd beach finds, even my dogs become designs. And I am frequently taking photos for inspiration or for reference later. With daily living in such a beautiful environment, I always feel inspired. I’m not one to get artist’s block. Fellow artists around me inspire me, a drawing by my daughter inspires me, a scene in a movie inspires me.”

Lynch encourages others to “take the jump” to try something new and not give up early in the process. “If you ever start a drawing, painting, whatever, and you hate it, keep going. Never start over. Use the experience to play around with the work you aren’t happy with and learn something from it. Often you create with abandon if you are already unhappy with the work because you aren’t worried about ruining it. When you take away the pressure to be ‘good,’ you will surprise yourself with what you can do, and it leads you down new paths.”

MORE ONLINE

Learn more at www.slowloris.com or follow their work on Instagram @slow_loris_studio.

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game changer

Apex Cause

For the Orca Conservancy, protecting the Southern Residents proves critical written by Daniel O’Neil

IF THE SALISH SEA has an icon, it might be salmon. But close behind salmon lies another icon—the killer whale, or orca. For millennia, the Southern Resident orcas have inspired and coexisted with Native communities, and today they represent the identity of anyone who calls the Salish Sea home. Yet as salmon runs in Puget Sound and elsewhere dwindle, and chemical and noise pollution increase, the Southern Resident orcas face an uncertain future. Three different types of orca hunt the Salish Sea, but the Southern Resident orcas have traditionally inhabited these waters. After a peak of about ninety-seven whales in the mid-1990s—following enforcement of the Marine Mammal Protection Act of 1972, which ended killings and captures for marine parks—the Southern Resident orcas are in decline again. Today they number around seventy-four. Three main causes—malnourishment, 52

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sound pollution and toxic waters—are pushing that population toward extinction, but the Orca Conservancy leads initiatives to mitigate these widespread troubles. Founded in 1996, the Seattle-based nonprofit focuses on the recovery of the Southern Residents and their habitat. The group helped make a case for protecting these orcas under the federal Endangered Species Act. Listed in 2005, the Southern Resident orcas today have fewer than thirty effective breeding population members, making them one of the most critically endangered marine mammals in the United States. For the Orca Conservancy, this should send a signal to human communities along the Salish Sea. “When an apex predator is failing, it means the entire ecosystem beneath it is also failing,” said Shari Tarantino, executive director of the Orca Conservancy. “As a keystone species, the

game changer

“When an apex predator is failing, it means the entire ecosystem beneath it is also failing. As a keystone species, the Southern Resident killer whales address the need for clean, cool water and healthy wild salmon populations, not just here in the Salish Sea but throughout their entire range.” — Shari Tarantino, Orca Conservancy executive director

This pod of orcas relies mainly on chinook salmon from the Chehalis River.

Southern Resident killer whales address the need for clean, cool water and healthy wild salmon populations, not just here in the Salish Sea but throughout their entire range, from southeast Alaska to Monterey Bay, California.” The Orca Conservancy works with other nonprofits, government agencies and local partners on campaigns across Puget Sound and the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Some confront pollution, including the discharge of toxins into those waters and their tributaries. Vessel motor noise interferes with orcas’ sound-based technique for locating salmon, and boat collisions hurt or kill whales. In response, the Orca Conservancy now uses AI hydrophones (underwater microphones) to alert ships and boats of the orcas’ presence, so they can slow down or change course. Unlike the other two Salish Sea orca ecotypes, the Southern Resident orcas feed entirely on fish, mainly chinook salmon.

Restoration and water temperature monitoring projects, which rely on volunteers, underscore the Orca Conservancy’s emphasis on the importance of salmon habitat. “While this population faces three well-documented and studied threats, if the whales continue to be food stressed throughout their entire range, the other two threats, noise and toxins, won’t matter,” Tarantino said. Allies of the Orca Conservancy range from the Seattle Seawolves professional rugby team to Lib Tech snowboards. “Orca people are very similar to snowboarders—completely dedicated and very passionate about what they do,” said Lib Tech co-founder Pete Saari. Lib Tech’s hazardous waste-free factory in Sequim, on the Salish Sea, connects the company with the whales. Through its “Orca” model snowboard, Lib Tech and professional snowboarder Travis Rice contribute to the Orca Conservancy each year. “With the success of the board and the environmentally friendly mindset of our company, we felt like it would be good to give back in some way,” Saari said. “The Orca Conservancy does fun, interactive educational and fundraising activities with our local community, so they were a natural choice.” Saving the Southern Resident population requires an assembly of causes. The Chehalis River Alliance’s work dovetails perfectly with the Orca Conservancy. “The successful protection of Southern Resident killer whales is a template for protecting more than just these magnificent creatures,” said the Alliance’s Brian Bennett. “It’s a blueprint for protecting an entire ecosystem and a symbol of hope for future generations of environmental stewards.” MORE ONLINE

To learn more about the Orca Conservancy or to get involved, visit www.orcaconservancy.org/take-action

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thinking the world revolves around you, come visit the Oregon Coast and think again.

THE

OREGON COAST visittheoregoncoast.com Funded in part by

Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor

The classes, tours & events to help you become a forager in Washington’s backyard written by Ryn Pfeuffer | illustrations by Kate Wong

Nestled in the heart of the Pacific Northwest, Washington state is a forager’s paradise, where the lush landscapes offer a treasure trove of wild edibles waiting to be discovered.. From the temperate rainforests of the Olympic Peninsula to the sprawling meadows of Eastern Washington, the possibilities for wild food adventures are endless.. One of the Pacific Northwest’s most coveted treasures is the elusive morel mushroom, a true delicacy for foragers. As the forest floor awakens from its winter slumber in the springtime, these delectable fungi emerge like hidden gems. But foraging in Washington isn’t just about mushrooms; it’s a celebration of diverse flavors and textures. Along the coast, the rocky shores reveal a hidden world of seaweed varieties, from the briny sea lettuce to the crunchy, salty goodness of bull kelp. These marine plants offer a unique taste of the sea and are rich in vitamins and minerals. For the adventurous palate, the Cascade Mountains provide a medley of wild berries. Huckleberries, salmonberries and thimbleberries burst forth in a dazzling array of colors, inviting you to savor their sweet and tangy delights. Whether you enjoy them fresh, bake them into a pie or transform them into jams, these berries are a testament to the region’s natural bounty. In Washington, foraging is a profound connection to the land and a lesson in sustainability. Take only what you need, preserving the ecosystem’s balance, and minimize your

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impact on the environment. Be mindful, especially in busy areas, and if you spot enticing berries on a crowded trail, remember the spot and harvest in a less disturbed place. Responsible foraging is essential to preserve these resources for generations to come. Foraging guide Rebecca Lexa, MA, OMN, emphasizes that solid identification skills are paramount for new foragers. She cautions against relying solely on identification apps, as there has been a rise in poisonings due to misidentified species. Apps should be just one tool in your kit, alongside field guides, websites and advice from experienced foragers. Lexa underscores the importance of not only using these tools correctly but also distinguishing between very similar species. Remember, identification is a process, not a snapshot, and your health and safety hinge on the accuracy of your identifications. Washington is a haven for nature enthusiasts, inviting both seasoned foragers and novices to explore and savor its vibrant landscapes. With an abundance of foraging events and tours, there’s an exciting adventure waiting for you. Here are six to explore:

Tour-mates from Savor the Wild Tours bring in a load of morels. (photo: Savor the Wild Tours)

Savor the Wild Tours

Online Classes & Private Nature Tours

Embark on seasonal foraging adventures with Angela Shen. Explore her captivating offerings like the Intro to Mushroom Foraging near Seattle or the enchanting Crazy for Chanterelles Hunt in the heart of Gifford Pinchot National Forest. With a culinary background and a passion for immersive food experiences, Shen is the trailblazer behind Savor Seattle Food Tours. While Savor the Wild Tours’ new website is on the horizon, you can track its wild journey on Instagram (@savorthewildtours). In addition to foraging, Savor the Wild Tours also specializes in guided shellfish harvesting and hosts exclusive pop-up dining events.

Discover the world of foraging with Rebecca Alexa’s online classes, designed for accessibility and convenience. Whether you’re new to foraging or looking to enhance your skills, these classes provide valuable insights into identifying edible plants and mushrooms. If you prefer an in-person adventure, book a private guided nature tour in the Pacific Northwest tailored to your interests, including edible species identification. Learn more at www.rebeccalexa.com and look out for her book, The Everyday Naturalist: How to Identify Animals, Plants, and Fungi Wherever You Go (Ten Speed Press), due for release in 2025.

Introductory Foraging Class with Langdon Cook Immerse yourself in the world of foraging with the Field Trip Society (www.fieldtripsociety.com), a Seattle-based company dedicated to crafting unforgettable adventures. Langdon Cook, acclaimed author of The Mushroom Hunters, teaches an introductory foraging class that transports you to the picturesque Cascade foothills. During these half-day sessions just a short distance from Seattle, you’ll uncover a treasure trove of wild edibles. Learn the art of identification, harvesting, processing, cooking and preserving these flavorful and nutritious finds. Dive into discussions on the ethics of foraging, sustainability and the rich tapestry of local natural history. For those seeking a deeper experience, the Field Trip Society offers full-day shellfish foraging and cooking classes along Puget Sound. Additionally, private sessions tailored for small groups are available. For more information, visit www.langdoncook.com/events. OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

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FROM TOP A Field Trip Society foraging outing with author and wild foods expert Langdon Cook. A jewel from the Pacific Northwest Foraging Pros guided tours in coastal Seabrook. (photos, from top: Shannon Oslick/Field Trip Society, Seabrook)

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Mushroom Foraging Classes Fall in the Pacific Northwest heralds mushroom-picking season, and the Seabrook area offers an exceptional foraging experience. Join the Pacific Northwest Foraging Pros every Saturday until November 12 at 11 a.m. for guided foraging adventures that last around two hours. These family-friendly outings provide a fantastic opportunity to explore the forests of Seabrook and learn about the diverse range of mushrooms found along the Washington coast, including golden chanterelles, matsutake, chicken of the woods, porcini, king boletes, hedgehog and lobster mushrooms. It’s an enchanting way to immerse yourself in the beauty and bounty of this coastal region during the fall harvest season. For more information, visit www.seabrookwa.com/events/ paid-admission/mushroom-foraging-classes.

Foraging Tours with Chef Ky Discover the thrill of foraging with Chef Ky Loop as your guide along the scenic Chinook Byway in Federation Forest State Park and the stunning Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest. Ky offers intimate small group foraging tours with advance notice, blending nature exploration with culinary delights. In spring, hunt for morel, verpa, oyster mushrooms and more, complete with a delectable lunch. In autumn, the adventure continues with chanterelles, lobster mushrooms and foraged berries. Don’t miss this opportunity—book your unforgettable foraging experience at www.chefky.com/foragingtours or contact Chef Ky Loop at chefkyloop@gmail.com.

Kitsap Peninsula Mycological Society The Kitsap Peninsula Mycological Society (KPMS) is a vibrant club that serves its members’ needs and offers valuable mushroom-related resources at www.kitsap mushrooms.org. While KPMS doesn’t conduct public foraging tours, they host an annual Wild Mushroom Show, a free event that’s a fantastic way to engage with the community. This year’s show, taking place on November 5, from 1 to 5 p.m. at Olympic College Bremerton, promises to be a hit with activities for all ages, including a special focus on introducing kids to foraging, expert speakers, mushroom displays, identification services, edible samples, mushroom growing kits and vendors. With last year’s event attracting 1,500 visitors, this year is expected to be even more spectacular. Don’t miss out on the fascinating world of mushrooms at the KPMS Wild Mushroom Show! For more information, visit www.kitsapmushrooms.org/events.

Mark Your Calendar In the Pacific Northwest, foraging opportunities abound year-round. Spring offers morel mushrooms and tender spring greens, while summer brings a bounty of berries and edible flowers. In fall, the forests are rich with mushrooms like chanterelles and oyster mushrooms, and winter reveals hidden treasures like nutritious nettles. Here’s a quick look at what’s in season and when: FIDDLEHEAD FERNS March-June

OYSTER MUSHROOMS August-December

NETTLES March-June

WILD ROSE (HIPS) SeptemberNovember

MOREL MUSHROOMS March-June DANDELION GREENS March-November BLACKBERRIES July-August CHANTERELLES July-November ELDERBERRIES August-September WILD HAZELNUTS August-October CHANTERELLES August-November

RAZOR CLAMS Razor clam season in Washington varies yearly, and beach location as determined by the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife. Typically, it occurs from fall through early spring, with specific dates and locations subject to change. For up-todate information and regulations, check the WDFW website (www.wdfw.wa.gov).

To discover local foraging events in your area, you can also check out Eventbrite (www.eventbrite.com (www.eventbrite.com) for a variety of informative workshops and guided outings.

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Ocean Spray growers harvest cranberries in Washington. Pacific County is known for its cranberry farms, as well as its seafood. (photo: Ocean Spray)

Room to

GROW Pacific, Klickitat and Chelan counties are forward-looking keepers of Washington food and drink tradition written by Daniel O’Neil

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A tourist map of Washington quickly points out places like Bellingham, Puget Sound and Walla Walla. A topographic map reveals a broader state that is endlessly defined by nooks, inlets, bays, lakes, mountains, rivers and ridgelines. While some of Washington’s counties bask in the limelight of food and drink fame, others remain obscure yet just as productive, proving the best delicacies are hardest to find.

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Pacific

RAPPING AROUND Washington’s southwest corner, Pacific County covers a lot of shoreline. Through Chinookan lands along the mouth of the Columbia River, and 28 miles up the Long Beach Peninsula to the entrance to Willapa Bay, fish and seafood provide sustenance and commerce. Dungeness crab, salmon, scallops, ling cod, halibut and razor clams all feature fresh on local menus. But that’s only half of Pacific County’s marine bounty. Willapa Bay, the secondlargest riverine estuary on the West Coast, claims status as the nation’s top oyster provider. Each tidal exchange refreshes about 70 percent of the bay’s water—at low tide, half of the bay becomes tide flats—and industry on the tributaries is limited, hence the oysters’ exquisite flavor. People like the Chinook and the Shoalwater Bay Tribe lived off the fruits of the sea and bay. “When the tide goes out, the table is set,” so went the saying. Oysters, salmon and clams helped feed the people, but food sources changed when settlers came. Now that tide is moving, too. In 2020, the Shoalwater Bay Tribe entered a business partnership with Jamie Courtney, an oyster farmer in Puget

TOP A Washington Ocean Spray grower harvests cranberries. (photo: Ocean Spray) BOTTOM LEFT Shoalwater Seafood oysters at various stages of growth. (photo: Shoalwater Seafood) BOTTOM RIGHT Shoalwater Seafood’s FlipFarm cage system helps to sustainably prevent ghost shrimp from affecting the oysters. (photo: Shoalwater Seafood)

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Sound. Their company, Shoalwater Seafood, brings a nutritious traditional food back into the fold while helping restore tribal culture and Willapa Bay. Oysters need three years to grow, so Shoalwater Seafood’s first harvest of organically farmed Willapa Bay oysters happens this fall. In the meantime, the company purchased wholesale oysters from Puget Sound and wet-stored them in Willapa Bay, which imparts its own distinct flavor. The benefits of reintroducing oysters to the tribal diet and economy have already surfaced. “For our people, oysters are a source of healthier traditional foods, and this is particularly important because one of our staples was chum salmon,” said Jesse Downs, a Shoalwater Bay tribal member and chief operations officer for Willapa Bay Enterprises, the tribal entity involved in Shoalwater Seafood. “With chum salmon numbers so low now, starting with oysters

provides a traditional food source, and it’s linked to restoring the ecosystem of the bay.” Oyster farming also contributes economically to the Shoalwater Bay Tribe through local and online sales. “You’re growing your food in your community and selling it to your community, so the money circulates more,” Downs said. “Food sovereignty is critical not only for our economic development, but just for our sustainability as a people.” Between Willapa Bay and the Pacific Ocean, an introduced crop provides others with revenue and tradition. Cranberry farming began on the Long Beach Peninsula in the late 1870s and continues today with around 500 acres of cranberry bogs, two dozen growers, and a grower-owned research station, demonstration farm and cranberry museum. The sandy soil, cool evenings and Pacific air give an attractively dark hue to the

North Jetty Brewing’s Leadbetter Red is the crossover beer for Seaview locals. (photo: Jenny Mann Photos, LLC)

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cranberry juice here, almost all of which goes to the Ocean Spray cooperative. The museum makes ice cream from some of the cranberries. “It’s the best thing in the world you’ve ever had, because most people have never had it,” said museum manager Paula Reagor. On the peninsula’s southern end, in Seaview, North Jetty Brewing is busy developing a new local tradition. The Long Beach Peninsula has become a popular tourist destination for a range of generations, partly due to its proximity to Astoria, Oregon. At the peninsula’s taprooms and taverns, longtime Long Beach residents now sit shoulder to shoulder with visiting Seattleites. “Local beer tastes are different than tourist tastes,” said North Jetty Brewing founder Erik Svendsen. Domestic lagers dominated in this once-sleepy fishing and cranberry-farming town, so North Jetty brewed their Leadbetter Red as a crossover beer, and it converted the older palates while appealing to the younger, craft beer connoisseurs. “We need a strong network to survive here. We’re perched at the edge of the universe.”

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IDING UNDER Mount Adams’ blunt peak and rugged with Cascade Range character, Klickitat County provides for itself. Long the land of the Klikatat Tribe, the area’s damp west and dry east sides host a wide range of plant and animal life. Camas and wapato, steelhead and coho and chinook, elk, deer and upland birds all reside here. In Klickitat County today, Klikatat and other Yakama Nation members still fish the vertical walls above Lyle Falls, a narrow whitewater stretch of the county’s namesake river before it hits the Columbia. Their wooden scaffolds and dip nets fit right in, while in nearby White Salmon and Lyle a new cohort of winemakers and growers are crafting another expression of place for Klickitat County. As the Steller’s jay flies, Klickitat County reaches 84 miles wide. It encompasses two distinct climate zones, from the drippy east side of the Cascades to the range’s arid and sunny rainshadow. Fine wine grows in each area, and Lyle doesn’t sit too far from either.

“Klickitat County covers the whole gamut,” said Luke Bradford, owner of COR Cellars, outside of Lyle. “There’s a diversity of vineyards to select from within an hour’s range.” COR Cellars buys grapes from both ends of the county. The deep, rich reds issue from vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills, one of Washington’s most regarded AVAs. The whites, and some primitivo and pinot noir, grow around White Salmon to the west, where irrigation is optional. According to the map, the vineyards in Underwood belong to Skamania County. But they also form part of the Columbia Gorge AVA, like the two acres of sauvignon blanc and tocai friulano planted at COR Cellars. A covey of winemakers and winegrowers lives between Lyle and Underwood. Small-scale remains the standard. Most

As the Steller’s jay flies, Klickitat County reaches 84 miles wide. It encompasses two distinct climate zones, from the drippy east side of the Cascades to the range’s arid and sunny rainshadow. OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

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of the dozen or so wineries produce around 2,000 to 5,000 cases of wine a year. Vineyards average 5 to 10 acres in size, tiny compared to the sprawling monoculture swathes of vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills. The Columbia Gorge AVA’s aggressive topography does not lend itself to industrial agriculture. Terrain won’t impede the western Klickitat County winemaking scene from expanding and evolving. “There’s been a ton of new people coming here, especially in the last five years,” Bradford said. He founded COR Cellars in 2004, one of the “new wave” of Washington’s Columbia Gorge wineries. “But it’s surprising still how unknown we are to Washingtonians. Even though we’re in Washington state, it’s so much more accessible for Oregon. It feels like we’re off in our own corner of the state.” Klickitat County straddles wine countries, and the Klickitat River itself serves as a dividing line. Elk and turkeys roam both sides. But for black-tail deer, hunt west of the river; for mule deer, go east. Following nature, the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife uses the river as a border for Eastern and Western Washington hunting tags. Locals like Levi Zoller, a third-generation hunting and fishing guide in Klickitat County, have variety on their side. “It’s an interesting place to live because it allows me to float around,” Zoller said. “Fifteen minutes west from my house I can get into rolling timber. Fifteen minutes east I can get into rolling grass fields. A guy can hunt year-round.” 64

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Klickitat County is rich in wine, game, fish and, coincidentally, cheese.

Fishing on the Klickitat and the White Salmon rivers accompanies the hunting opportunities. Wild and hatchery salmon and steelhead return to the rivers from spring to early winter. In late winter, the Columbia River offers walleye. Morels and huckleberries add more to the table and pantry. Klickitat County is rich in wine, game, fish and, coincidentally, cheese. Cascadia Creamery makes specialty cheeses from organic milk produced at Charis Way, a fifth-generation Trout Lake dairy only a mile away from the cheese cave. Cascadian volcanics long ago created lava tubes that people have used for food storage, and in 2005,

Cascadia Creamery found one to age cheese. “Geologically it’s fairly unique and isolated here,” said John Shuman, founder of Cascadia Creamery. “You have volcanic mud flows and volcanic ash, so it’s like this little pocket in the middle of the forest that has its own bounty of the earth.” With his cave-aged raw milk cheeses, Shuman is reviving a cheesemaking tradition in the Trout Lake area. Yet he is just one of many Klickitat County purveyors honoring the fertile and generous land and water in this nook of the Evergreen State. “We’re just taking advantage of one of the unique places in Klickitat County.” OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

AT LEFT COR Cellars was established in 2004 in the variable climate of Klickitat County. (photo: Peter Mahar) ABOVE Cascadia Creamery’s cheese aging room is located inside a natural lava tube cave. (photo: Alexander Pomper/ Cascadia Creamery)

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W AT

UNTIE

Chelan N

OT LONG AGO, the Chelan people spent the winter months along Lake Chelan’s outlet, near the present-day towns of Chelan and Manson. In their language, Tsilán means “deep water,” and the lake that bears their name is in fact the third-deepest in the United States. The adjacent Columbia River and Cascade Range rivers and streams, the forest and open ground, and the deep lake all provided a feast of roots, berries, game animals and fish. Today’s Chelan County continues to provide sustenance, but it now comes in different forms. Lake Chelan and its tributaries still teem with fish, including introduced oddities like

ABOVE Rootwood Cider Co. owners (from left) Emily Koenig McLean, Anna Koenig Caddey and Kate Koenig Howard at their orchard in Manson. The Koenig family planted orchards in the 1920s, first in Wenatchee and later in Manson, before launching Rootwood Cider Co. in 2014. (photo: Karisa Anna Photography)

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landlocked chinook. Berries grow increasingly more along the lake’s eastern shores these days, but they are cultivars of Vitis vinifera, planted by the burgeoning wine industry here. Apples have come to define the agriculture around Lake Chelan, which is good for bees and ciderphiles. Fifty miles long, yet little over a mile wide, Lake Chelan resembles a great cornucopia for Eastern Washington. Fed by snowmelt pouring down rivers like the Stehekin, the deep, cool lake benefits fish runs and the crops that grow nearby. It’s a natural lake formed by glaciers, hence its fjord-like look and a maximum depth of 1,486 feet. A rugged series of falls at the lake’s outlet naturally blocks fish passage to the Columbia River, but that doesn’t mean Lake Chelan lacks fishing.

“It’s the best fishery in the state of Washington, and that’s a lot of folks’ opinion because of the quality of our fish,” said Joe Heinlen, guide and owner of Lake Chelan Adventures. Kokanee and chinook salmon, and lake trout (mackinaw), live in the lake’s depths, so fishing for these requires a boat and ideally a guide because the fish lurk down to 500 feet. “You don’t just put your boat in the water and go catch one. It takes a little bit of practice and time spent out on the water. But I haven’t been skunked in nineteen years,” he said. In the late 1970s, the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife raised lake trout and chinook in net pens on the lake, and today these fish spawn

naturally. Since time immemorial, chinook have migrated past unreachable Lake Chelan, separated from the Columbia River by the 4-mile-long Chelan River (Washington’s shortest). The tiny shrimp that thrive in the lake’s pelagic waters substitute well enough for Pacific Ocean feed. Fishing from shore and docks yields cutthroat trout, smallmouth bass and northern pike minnow. Dinner only takes a little effort, and wineries in Chelan County complete the meal. Most of the grapes come from warmer parts of Washington, but the Lake Chelan AVA, founded in 2009, grows reds and whites of its own. Beyond pairing wines with the lake’s kokanee and chinook, some Lake Chelan vineyards also protect the salmon. When Hard Row to Hoe vineyards became the area’s first to earn Salmon Safe certification, they were already farming organically and wished to set a standard. “We knew that whatever we put on the ground would eventually wind up in Lake Chelan, so we didn’t want any synthetic chemicals,” said Judy Phelps, co-owner and founding winemaker. “We wanted to protect the environment and also to inspire other farms and vineyards in the area to do likewise.” Lake Chelan proves a good home for vineyards and for the area’s best-known crop, apples, by supplying irrigation water and because of its moderating effect on temperature. The lake effect keeps summers cooler, especially at night, which the winegrapes like, and buffers the winter lows. A long growing season with plenty of sun also contributes to the cherries, pears and apples that make nearby Wenatchee the self-proclaimed “Apple Capital of the World.”

Anna Koenig Caddey’s family planted orchards in the 1920s, first in Wenatchee and later in Manson, on the lake’s north shore. In 2014, rather than sell all of their apples wholesale, the Koenigs grafted some trees to cider apples. Now, at their Manson orchard they have five acres devoted to Rootwood Cider Co., which Caddey and her two sisters own and operate. They sell most of their cider onsite, where the tasting room and cidery intermingle with the apples. “When people finally get to the orchard, they’re intrigued by the trees and the apples,” Caddey said. “And they tend to learn something about growing, which is a great educational component and a nice longterm connection.” Rootwood Cider Co. makes one cider from Winter Banana apples and Manchurian crab apples, two bee-attracting varieties used for cross-pollinating Red Delicious apples but not for their fruit. As a tribute to the bees, Rootwood adds local honey and calls it The Pollinator. No one knows the importance of bees more than a beekeeper. Debora Robinett tends her hives at her home in Manson and makes Eden’s Honey, which she sells locally and in Seattle. Like other beekeepers, Robinett advocates for the orchards that feed bees pollen. The conversion of orchards to housing and vineyards (grapes self-pollinate) gradually diminishes bee habitat, which concerns Robinett. “Without the pollination, you wouldn’t have fruit,” Robinett said. “You wouldn’t have apples and cherries and blueberries and blackberries and all of those great foods.” Figs and currents,

Fifty miles long, yet little over a mile wide, Lake Chelan resembles a great cornucopia for Eastern Washington. Fed by snowmelt pouring down rivers like the Stehekin, the deep, cool lake benefits fish runs and the crops that grow nearby. apricots and nectarines, basil, lavender and arnica, all grow in Chelan County. Alfalfa, too. “If you don’t pollinate the alfalfa, you don’t have any food for your cattle and then you won’t have beef and dairy products. They all depend on bees.” Across tastes and bioregions, Washington’s isolated yet bountiful counties serve as a bridge between eras, cultures, and the urban-rural divide. Each helps demonstrate Washington’s tradition of thinking forward while acknowledging the past and respecting the land and waters that make this state singular. The future of Pacific, Klickitat and Chelan counties sounds appetizing for all.

Debora Robinett of Eden’s Honey is a beekeeper who advocates for bees and bee habitat such as orchards. (photo: Debora Robinett)

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Meryl McMaster, What Will I Say to the Sky and the Earth II, print on aluminum, 2019 Meryl McMaster is a Canadian artist with nêhiyaw (Plains Cree), British and Dutch ancestry based in the city of Ottawa. Her work is predominantly photography based, incorporating the production of props, sculptural garments and performance forming a synergy that transports the viewer out of the ordinary and into a space of contemplation and introspection.

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JOURNEY ALONG THE ARCTIC HIGHWAY written by Kerry Newberry | photography courtesy of the National Nordic Museum TUCKED INTO Seattle’s Ballard neighborhood, you’ll find the National Nordic Museum, a multimedia tribute to Nordic culture, values and ideas. It’s a fitting place for the museum, as the waterfront neighborhood is steeped in maritime history with longstanding Scandinavian roots. Rotating exhibits at the museum highlight Nordic themes ranging from deep connections to nature and sustainability to social justice and innovation. One of the current exhibits, Arctic Highways, presents contemporary art and handicraft by Indigenous artists from Sápmi, Canada and Alaska. In this mixed-media homage, you can explore the Arctic’s cultural and spiritual communities through evocative artwork by twelve Indigenous artists of the Circumpolar North. This exhibition will be touring North America and Europe from 2022 to 2025. You can find it in Seattle through November 26. For more information, visit www.nordicmuseum.org. OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

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Máret Ánne Sara, Crowned by Foreign Fate, print on aluminum, 2021 Máret Ánne Sara is an artist and an author. She is from a reindeer-herding family in Kautokeino, Norway, and currently works in her hometown. Sara’s work deals with the political and social issues affecting the Sámi communities in general, and the reindeer-herding communities in particular.

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Maureen Gruben, Aidainnaqduammi, Morning, print on aluminum, 2020 (photo: Kyra Kordoski) Maureen Gruben is a Canadian Inuvialuk artist who works in sculpture, installation and public art. In her practice, polar bear fur, beluga intestines and seal skins encounter resins, vinyl, bubble wrap and metallic tape, forging critical links between life in the Western Canadian Arctic and global environmental and cultural concerns.

Sonya KelliherCombs, Credible, Small Secrets, cotton fabric, human hair, nylon thread, glass beads and steel pins, 2021 (photo: Elisabeth Ohlson) Sonya KelliherCombs (Iñupiaq/ Athabascan) was raised in Nome, Alaska. Through visual art, community engagement, curation and advocacy, KelliherCombs works to create opportunity and feature Indigenous voices and the work of contemporary artists who through their work inform and encourage social action. Her personal mixed- media visual art focuses on the changing North and our relationship to nature and each other.

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Britta Marakatt-Labba, Motstånd (Resistance), embroidery, 2021 (photo: Carl Johan Utsi) Britta Marakatt-Labba tells stories through embroidery. Her images depict various events and scenes from everyday life, mythology, political reflections and tales about Sámi culture and history. Tomas Colbengtson, Giela Dájva (Language Landscape), oil on aluminium, 2021 (photo: Elisabeth Ohlson) Tomas Colbengtson grew up in a small Sámi village near Björkvattnet in Tärna, under the Arctic circle in Sweden. In his artwork, he asks how colonial heritage has changed Indigenous lives and landscapes, both of the Sámi and other Indigenous peoples. Gunvor Guttorm, Mátki Sámi ja Sámi áigodagaid čađa (The Roadtrip through Sápmi and the Sámi Seasons), installation of various materials (photo: Elisabeth Ohlson) Gunvor Guttorm is a professor in duodji (Sámi arts and crafts, traditional art, applied art) at Sámi University of Applied Sciences in Norway. The focus of her research deals with duodji in a contemporary setting, and Indigenous people’s context. She has written extensively about how the traditional knowledge of Sámi art and craft is transformed to the modern lifestyle.

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TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 76 ADVENTURE 80 LODGING 84 TRIP PLANNER 86

pg. 80 Try these three beautiful fall rides across the state.

Ben Matthews/Visit Spokane

NORTHWEST DESTINATION 92

Visit Kitsap p Peninsula The Thehe Natural Th Nau Na attutur ura ralal Side Siidde Si de ofof Puget Pug Pu ugetet Sound Sou So ouunnd nd

Experience Autumn in Kitsap

Experience Historic Maritime Culture

Explore Exp Ex xplore the Water W ter Trails Wa Visit Charming Small Towns

VISITKITSAP.COM Enjoy local food and drink

Hansville · Kingston · Port Gamble · Poulsbo Bainbridge Island · Silverdale · Bremerton Suquamish · Port Orchard · Gig Harbor

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visitkitsappeninsula

travel spotlight

ABOVE The Dog Woods sign touches on the history of the nature preserve. AT RIGHT Cassy is a regular visitor to Guemes Island with her human, Bill Pellett.

A Dog’s Paradise

Dog Woods on Guemes Island preserves a long tradition of freedom for dogs written by Joni Kabana | photography by Alex Garland HAVE YOU ever arrived at a trailhead hike only to discover that your furry canine companion is not welcome to join you or must be on leash the whole hike? Check out Dog Woods on Guemes Island to let your dog frolic to its sniffing’s delight. Dog Woods is located within the Guemes Island Wildlife Corridor, a kaleidoscope of protected lands across the southern half of Guemes Island. Lands here are part of the Skagit Land Trust and San Juan Island Preservation Trust whose joint goal is to protect and preserve the environment and restore and maintain a plethora of forest, wetland, shrubland and meadow habitats that are climate-resilient. So why would dogs be allowed to roam freely? Guemes Island was once inhabited by the Samish Indian Nation, and their name for this island was Qweng7qwengíla7, which translates to “Lots of Dogs Island.” Dogs are free to run as long as their owners keep them from bothering wildlife or disturbing other dogs or people, and they pick up after them. The Samish people who inhabited Guemes Island raised Salish woolly dogs and sheared their long, white hair to spin for weaving, so this island has a long history of welcoming man’s best friend. Dog Woods aims to remind visitors of the Samish history in this location and pay homage to the land’s historical uses. 76 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

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travel spotlight

Meander slowly through the forest and see if you can find twelve different native tree species. Maples, firs, cherrywood and birch are just a few of the trees present here. And by all means, stop and listen to the sounds of the forest. Getting to Dog Woods takes some effort, but the journey is beautiful at every turn. Cross over to Guemes Island via the Guemes Island Ferry and then head north on Guemes Island Road. Take a left onto South Shore Drive and stay on South Shore Drive until it makes a right. Turn onto West Shore Drive and you will see the Dog Woods sign on the right. The parking area is very small so consider walking from the ferry. For more information, see www.dogwoods.info.

Meander slowly through the forest and see if you can find twelve different native tree species. And by all means, stop and listen to the sounds of the forest. 78 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

FROM TOP Ferns line a shadowy path in the Dog Woods. The sculpture Gathering of Owls by Leo E. Osborne was placed next to a Dog Woods trail in 2023.

s re u n t d v e a

Ben Matthews/Visit Spokane

adventure

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adventure

Three Bike Tours to Do This Fall Let beauty be thy muse and a cycle your brush through these picturesque rides written by Jen Sotolongo

ONE OF THE best ways to get to know a landscape is from the seat of a bicycle. Bicycle touring affords the rider the luxury of slow travel, allowing cyclists to truly take in the landscape and the charming towns along the way that you might otherwise miss if you were to drive. The abundant sea and mountain views beckon cycling enthusiasts who want to explore the Evergreen State on two wheels. The three tours below include an island-hopping adventure through the picturesque San Juan Islands, where rugged coastlines and lush forests await. Next up is a door-to-door expedition from Seattle, leading us to the beautiful Olympic Peninsula and the charm of Whidbey Island. Lastly, we’ll take you on a multi-state excursion to Spokane and into Idaho.

San Juan Islands

The Centennial Trail spans 40 miles east to Idaho and is a rite of passage for Spokane locals. Small towns like Wallace hold a lot of intrigue.

The San Juans are iconic for bicycle tours in Washington and for good reason. The network of well-maintained roads see minimal traffic and cyclist-friendly establishments. With plenty of stops for delicious fresh food, seaside campsites and rides for all abilities, the San Juans are a must-do for beginner and seasoned riders alike. Start your tour in Anacortes where you’ll leave your car and roll your bike onto the ferry destined for Lopez Island. The views you see from the ferry ride will give you an idea of what to expect over the next several days. On Lopez, follow one of the route options set by the Tour de Lopez, an annual fun ride that circumnavigates the island. Route options vary from 5 to 31 miles with plenty of places to stop and eat along the way. For those looking to camp, Spencer Spit State Park offers bike-in campsites with exquisite waterfront views. The following day, take the ferry to Orcas Island, the largest of the San Juan Islands, where stronger cyclists can enjoy hilly riding, including the challenging climb up Mount Constitution, the highest point in the San Juans. Plan to spend one to two days exploring Orcas Island with the help of Wildlife Cycles, OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

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adventure

Visit Idaho

The 15-mile stretch known as the Route of the Hiawatha is one of the most beautiful cycling stretches in the Northwest.

a full-service independent bike shop with knowledgeable staff and bike maps. Once you’ve finished cycling for the day, stay the night in a rustic cabin at Doe Bay Resort or opt for a biker/hiker campsite at Moran State Park. On your final day, hop on a morning ferry to Shaw Island, the smallest of the San Juans, known for its charm and tranquility. Do a loop around the island and stay at one of the bike-in campsites at Shaw Island County Park before returning to the mainland the following day.

Seattle to the Olympic Peninsula If you live in or near Seattle, the combination bike paths and ferries make it easy to plan a door-to-door bike tour. Take the Bainbridge Island Ferry and bike to Port Townsend. If you have fat tires, ride through the Port Gamble Forest; otherwise, stick to the roads. Stock up on food in Bainbridge Island, with plentiful cafes and a great grocery store in town. In Port Townsend, stay in one of the biker/hiker campsites at the impressive Fort 82

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Worden State Park, a 432-acre park that was used by the Army more than 100 years ago. From Port Townsend, you can choose to hop on the 135-mile Olympic Discovery Trail, a cycling route composed of road and paved path that follows the northern part of the Olympic Peninsula, through the charming towns of Port Angeles and Sequim, terminating at the Pacific Ocean in La Push. Or, take the ferry to Coupeville, where you can explore another old fort before hitting the road. The east side of the island will offer lower-traffic roads and views of the Snohomish Valley. Stay the night in Clinton and take the ferry to Mukilteo the following morning. From there, you can make your way to the Burke Gilman trail and back home to Seattle.

Spokane/Coeur d’Alene/Idaho This multi-state point-to-point bike adventure starts in Spokane and ends in Idaho. From downtown Spokane, you’ll start the tour by taking the 40-mile Centennial Trail that follows the

Robert S. Harrison Photography/San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau

adventure

Spokane River to the Idaho border. Once out of the urban center, the trail passes through high desert pine forests, basalt canyons, and cultural heritage sites. If you’d like to add a side trip from Spokane, add on the 30-mile out-and-back ride along the Fish Lake Trail to Cheney. Once in Idaho, you’ll continue to follow the path, now called the North Idaho Centennial Trail that continues for 24 miles to Higgen Point State Park on Lake Coeur d’Alene. Stay the night in Coeur d’Alene and then make your way to Harrison to pick up the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes, a 75-mile trail deemed one of top 25 most scenic trails in the nation. The fully paved route runs through the Silver Valley, following the Coeur d’Alene River and rolling farmlands to the town of Plummer. Plan to stay in Wallace for the evening so that you can make your way to the town of Pearson via the well-maintained Moon Pass Road to ride the 15-mile Route of the Hiawatha. The rails to trails conversion follows what was known as one of the most “scenic stretches of railroad in the country” includes seven high trestles and nine tunnels, starting with the famous 1.661-milelong St. Paul Tunnel. Following along the crest of the Bitterroot Mountains that straddle the border between Idaho and Montana, the mostly downhill route terminates near the Lookout Pass Ski Area.

Olympic Peninsula Visitor Bureau

ABOVE Cycling on the small Lopez Island. BELOW The 135-mile Olympic Discovery Trail follows the northern part of the Olympic Peninsula.

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Photos: The Davenport Hotels

lodging

ACCOMMODATIONS + AMENITIES Each room is somewhat unique, as befits a historic hotel, but you’ll find the same level of charm and attention to detail in each, whether you’re in a king or queen room, a suite, or even the Circus Room, which is the only hotel room that remains from the original hotel before it was restored. The lights are made to look like balloons, and it’s fun for a celebration or just to sleep in a bit of history. Rooms are dog friendly with a deposit, and you’ll find lots to do on site, from browsing the lobby shop, to having a spa day or hitting the fitness center, pool or hot tub.

DINING If you want to dine on site, you’re in luck. You can enjoy coffee and snacks in the morning at the small coffee corner in the lobby, or sit down for a delightful meal at just about any time of day, try the Palm Court, known for their signature Crab Louis salad (legend says it was invented right here). Settle in for a drink at the sophisticated, yet relaxed Peacock Lounge, or skip it all and have room service delivered right to you. There’s a new chef in the house, and if it’s been a while since you’re been here, it might be time to put this one on your list, whether for a meal, or a stay.

Lodging

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The stately Historic Davenport Hotel in downtown Spokane. The Davenport lobby is a reverie of its own and a song of days gone by. Rooms (such as the pictured Circus Room) have the famed Davenport mattresses.

The Historic Davenport Hotel written by Cara Strickland LONG CONSIDERED to be the lodging heart of Spokane, the Historic Davenport Hotel is a beautifully restored hotel that is luxurious and special enough for a romantic getaway, but is family-friendly and well-appointed enough for bringing the whole crew or for business travel. When you stay, you’re within walking distance of nearly everything you might need, from shopping, to nightlife, dining and the beautiful Riverfront Park, which was the site of the 1974 World’s Fair. 10 S. POST ST. SPOKANE www.davenporthotelcollection.com/the-historic-davenport-hotel

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HISTORY This hotel was the brainchild of a man named Louis Davenport in the early 1900s. His vision was a place you could come and experience all the corners of the world without ever leaving Spokane. Each part of the hotel is themed to a different country, and each touch represents a lot of care and thought. As the century was winding down, the hotel had seen better days. After Davenport had to sell due to illness, a series of mismanagers sent the hotel downhill. But fortunately a local couple, the Worthys, took on the project and helped the Davenport sparkle and shine again. Now the hotel is owned by Marriott, and the people involved continue to bring all the heart and care that Louis Davenport showed by caring for this beautiful spot, and the lovely city of Spokane.

HERE’S TO WHATEVER OPENS YOUR DOOR Timberline Vodka is created by and for the “Outer Class” in a little part of the world called Hood River where there’s a lot more outside than inside. We distill our enthusiasm with Pacific Northwest apples, grain, and glacier-fed spring water from Mt. Hood. Outwards! D O U B L E G O L D W I N N E R 2021 San Francisco World Spirits Competition

A proud partner of The Freshwater Trust, a nonprofit with a mission to preserve and restore freshwater ecosystems, including rivers, streams and creeks across the West. Distilled and bottled by Hood River Distillers, Inc., Hood River, Oregon. © 2021 Timberline ® Vodka, 40% Alc/Vol, Gluten Free. www.timberlinevodkas.com. Stay in Control ®.

trip planner BELOW Tsillan Cellars on Lake Chelan, among a bracing number of orchards and vineyards.

Lake Chelan

The summer hot spot becomes a better fall redoubt written by Ryn Pfeuffer

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Ranking as the nation’s third-deepest lake, trailing only Crater and Tahoe, Lake Chelan’s impressive 50-mile length rivals an Olympia-to-Seattle commute. During October and November, its surrounding landscape transforms into a canvas of rich gold, fiery reds, and rustic oranges. Beyond the bustling summer crowds, these quieter months offer a unique opportunity to discover the captivating essence of Lake Chelan, where crisp air, cozy moments, and the breathtaking interplay of nature’s palette await at every turn. Join us as we explore the delight of this tranquil retreat during the fall season.

Bella Fritz Photography/Tsillan Cellars

AS THE VIBRANT HUES of summer fade into the gentle embrace of autumn, the enchanting destination of Lake Chelan unveils a whole new allure for travelers seeking a serene escape. Cradled in the heart of Washington State, Lake Chelan stands as one of the deepest lakes in the United States, reaching a depth of over 1,486 feet, and captivates with its enchanting azure tones and exceptional clarity. Its origin dates back to the Ice Age, and its location within a volcanic valley contributes to its irresistible charm. Stretching across approximately 50 miles of shoreline, the lake offers many lakeside adventures and relaxation opportunities.

LIVE THINK EXPLORE Discover the best of the Evergreen State with a subscription to 1889 Washington’s Magazine. PNW getaways, destination dining, outdoor adventures and more!

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LAKESIDE TRANQUILITY • BURGERS + SHAKES Stay at Campbell’s Resort on Lake Chelan, where history dating back to 1901 meets modern leisure. Enjoy snug lodgings, lakeside views and contemporary amenities. Unwind during the serene off-season, explore local boutiques and soak up the Pacific Northwest. Fall still provides plenty of beach days, followed by crisp nights—perfect for hot tub relaxation and fireside camaraderie. For lunch, experience the charm of a leisurely lunch at Lakeview Drive-In. This iconic local eatery brings classic American cuisine to life. Step into a world of vintage nostalgia as you dine from the comfort of your car. With a menu that pays homage to a simpler era, savor the Triple Mack Cheeseburger for extra indulgence. Don’t forget to treat yourself to their must-try milkshakes. Take a delightful stroll through Chelan Riverwalk Park, a picturesque haven tucked alongside the shimmering waters of the Chelan River. As you wander the meandering pathways, you’ll be treated to pretty river views framed by lush greenery and charming bridges. It’s the perfect oasis for locals and visitors to immerse themselves in the natural beauty of Chelan. Round off your day with dinner at Sorrento’s Ristorante within Tsillan Cellars. Owner Dr. Bob Jankelson’s passion for Italian cuisine shines through each dish. Begin with the blood orange prawn salad, blending crispy prawns, mixed greens and creamy blood orange dressing. Then savor the halibut piccata—a wild Pacific halibut filet drizzled with a buttery lemoncaper cream sauce. In winter, embrace the cozy ambiance by the Italian fireplace, with panoramic Lake Chelan views. 88 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

Emily Moller Photography/Tsillan Cellars

Day

FROM TOP Lake Chelan settles into fall. Sorrento’s Ristorante offers authentic Italian cuisine and a fireplace with lake views.

COME FOR THE OUTDOORS

STAY FOR THE MEMORIES

trip planner

Offering a variety of hiking and cross-country skiing routes through lush forests and breathtaking vistas, Echo Ridge caters to all kinds of adventurers.

Day

Day BAKED GOODS • OUTDOOR ADVENTURES Start the day with a coffee and pastry at Lake Chelan Artisan Bakery, a local social hub known for its daily changing array of fresh bread and irresistible baked goods options like the sticky bun, bear claw, and a raspberry oat bar. The Echo Ridge Trail System is a veritable haven for those with a penchant for the great outdoors. Offering a variety of hiking and cross-country skiing routes through lush forests and breathtaking vistas, Echo Ridge caters to all kinds of adventurers. Initially designed for cross-country skiing, it now welcomes mountain bikers, family hikers, and horseback riders to its network of loop trails, boasting stunning views of Lake Chelan, the Enchantments, Pyramid Peak and Okanogan Highlands. With easy open trails perfect for families and a $10 daily parking fee, Echo Ridge invites you to revel in its natural beauty and embrace the outdoors. Worked up an appetite? Savor a laid-back lunch at Local Myth Pizza, a beloved dining spot renowned for its imaginative 90

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

Lady of the Lake

Cushioned outside Chelan in Manson, Blueberry Hills is a family-owned u-pick berry farm with a farmhouse-style restaurant, a charming fruit stand, and a rustic country gift shop. The historic homestead features a wooden barn with 10 acres of u-pick blueberry plants. Inside, picnic tables mingle with shelves laden with jarred jams and quirky collections from the co-owner’s grandparents. The restaurant serves both breakfast and lunch, with highlights like blintzes and Danish yeast waffles topped with warm blueberry pie filling. Chelan is home to a burgeoning wine haven, where unique microclimates yield an exquisite array of reds, whites and rosés. At the forefront is Tsillan Cellars, a pioneer in both winemaking and the Lake Chelan music scene. Awarded the 2020 Washington Winery of the Year, this 127-acre estate boasts over 400 Gold medals and the region’s premier vineyards. Other nearby wineries include Karma Vineyards and Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards. If you need a time-out from wine tasting, take a leisurely picnic lunch by the lakeshore, surrounded by the vibrant colors of fall. Afterward, venture into Lake Chelan State Park for a peaceful hike along trails that offer stunning vistas of the lake and autumn-hued surrounding hills. Book a table at Andante, a charming Italian eatery where flavors shine in a cozy atmosphere. Start with the gooey, cheesy fresh artichoke dip or the Caesar salad with house-made dressing. Next, dive into a luscious chicken fettuccine bathed in a velvety, creamy Alfredo sauce. The wine list is diverse and accessible, perfectly complementing your meal.

Lake Chelan Chamber of Commerce

VINEYARDS • HIKING • SCENIC BEAUTY

trip planner

LAKE CHELAN, WASHINGTON

FROM TOP The Echo Ridge Trail System is a hiker’s paradise. Lady of the Lake is the best form of transportation to Stehekin and around Lake Chelan.

EAT Andante www.andantechelan.com Blueberry Hills Farm www.wildaboutberries.com Lake Chelan Artisan Bakery www.chelanartisanbakery.com Lakeview Drive-In www.lakeviewdrivein.com Local Myth Pizza www.localmythpizza.com Tsillan Cellars www.tsillancellars.com Wapato Point Cellars www.wapatopointcellars.com

STAY Campbell’s Resort www.campbellsresort.com

PLAY Chelan Riverwalk Park www.chelanpud.org Echo Ridge Trail System www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/ echo-ridge Lake Chelan Boat Co. Lady of the Lake www.ladyofthelake.com Lake Chelan State Park www.parks.wa.gov/531/ Lake-Chelan

thin-crust concoctions and lively ambiance. Their specialty is crafting distinct ingredient combinations, such as the First Date—a masterpiece adorned with balsamic reduction, gorgonzola, mozzarella cheese, Parmigiano/Pecorino blend, dates and prosciutto. Do not miss a cruise aboard the Lady of the Lake if your schedule allows. Serving as one of the oldest continuously operating passenger ferries in the United States, this vessel offers a unique passage to the secluded village of Stehekin at the lake’s northern tip. Journeys on the Lady of the Lake span from 70 minutes to four hours, covering the entire distance of the lake (with express options available on a more selective schedule). Return to Chelan and wrap up your journey with a farewell dinner at Wapato Point Cellars. The winery is a founding

winery of the Lake Chelan AVA, now celebrating its 20th anniversary in Lake Chelan.

HOW TO GET THERE By Air: The nearest major airport is Pangborn Memorial Airport (EAT) in Wenatchee. From there, you can rent a car and drive to Lake Chelan, about an hour away. By Car: If you’re traveling by car, Lake Chelan is accessible via Washington State Route 97 (SR-97) if you’re coming from the west or east. The town of Chelan is located at the southern end of the lake. Follow signs to Chelan from SR-97. If you’re coming from Seattle, you can take I-90 East to Cle Elum and then connect to US-97 South. Follow US-97 to Chelan.

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 91

northwest destination

Healdsburg

Rolling hills for vineyards and cyclists written by Ryn Pfeuffer

AS SUMMER FADES, Healdsburg in Sonoma County, California, blossoms as a haven for wine and cycling enthusiasts. It’s renowned for its proximity to world-class vineyards, making it a hub for tasting acclaimed wines in the Alexander Valley and Dry Creek Valley appellations. Fall offers a quieter experience than summer, allowing for personalized winery tastings amid the vineyards. Here’s how to make the most of your visit: Hotel Healdsburg is a stylish oasis in Sonoma County, seamlessly blending modern sophistication and wine country charm in its rooms and suites. The lush courtyard, pool, spa and onsite restaurant enhance relaxation, while the prime location near Healdsburg’s vibrant plaza encapsulates the ideal wine country getaway. Vineyard stays blend relaxation with winemaking. At Jordan Estate, elegant guest suites provide vineyard views, private terraces and elevated comfort. Explore estate tours and tastings at Jordan Vineyard & Winery. Discover Healdsburg’s iconic wineries from your bike’s saddle. Pedal through Northern California’s scenic wine country, unveiling the stories and flavors of world-class wines with 92

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

every turn of the wheel. The harvest season often continues into October, offering a chance to witness winemaking processes in action. If you want a comprehensive cycling and wine tasting experience, consider booking a guided Healdsburg Cycling Wine Tour through Ace It! Bike Tours. The tour includes visits to esteemed local wineries for tastings, like J Winery, Rodney Strong, Limerick, Mutt Lynch, Foppiano, and Davis Family Vineyards, where you can learn about winemaking while you sip a number of wine offerings. More of a DIY traveler? Visit the Sonoma County website for information about cycling routes and wineries in the area. You can use this resource to plan your own self-guided wine tasting and cycling adventure. Visitors can also hit the trails. Healdsburg and the surrounding areas offer numerous hiking trails that lead through forests, hills, and along the banks of the Russian River. The fall foliage transforms the landscape into a tapestry of warm hues, creating a photo-worthy spectacle. Or you can take to the skies and enjoy breathtaking views of the vineyards, valleys and mountains in a hot air balloon. The

Jordan Vineyard & Winery

John Troxell/Sonoma County Tourism

Mariah Harkey/Sonoma County Tourism

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Up & Away Hot Air Ballooning offers fabulous views of the region. The charming downtown plaza in Healdsburg. Jordan Vineyard & Winery is one of Healdsburg’s more scenic wineries. SingleThread, a three-star Michelin venue.

cooler temperatures of fall make this experience even more pleasant. Up & Away Hot Air Ballooning offers private flights, as well as a Ballooning, Bikes & Brews package (if you need a break from wine). Healdsburg’s historic downtown plaza, the charming centerpiece of the town, is enveloped by boutiques, tasting rooms, art galleries and restaurants, creating a vibrant and bustling atmosphere. The town’s culinary scene, which shines year-round, becomes even more spectacular in the fall, offering seasonal menus that highlight the fresh bounty of the season. SingleThread, a restaurant boasting three Michelin stars, presents a distinctive culinary affair that seamlessly blends a farm, inn and dining establishment. Meticulously crafted, multicourse tasting menus highlight the essence of locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Reservations for this experience become available online at 9 a.m. PST on the first day of each month, catering to the month ahead. For a more relaxed option, Chalkboard presents a contemporary farm-to-table dining encounter featuring a dynamic menu that shifts according to seasonal ingredients. Picture enjoying chilled cucumber soup with crab, kefir lime yogurt, and chive

HEALDSBURG, CALIFORNIA

Mariah Harkey/Sonoma County Tourism

northwest destination

EAT Chalkboard Restaurant www.chalkboardhealdsburg.com Noble Folk Ice Cream and Pie Bar www.thenoblefolk.com SingleThread www.singlethreadfarms.com/ restaurant Valette www.valettehealdsburg.com

STAY Hotel Healdsburg www.hotelhealdsburg.com Jordan Vineyard & Winery www.jordanwinery.com/visit

PLAY Healdsburg Cycling Wine Tour www.aceitbiketours.com/ bike-tours/healdsburg-cyclingwine-tour Sonoma County www.sonomacounty.com/ activities Up & Away Hot Air Ballooning www.up-away.com

oil or savoring a saffron strozzapreti with rock shrimp, garlic, preserved lemon and estate greens. Valette is another popular choice focusing on locally sourced, inventive cuisine. Begin with day boat scallops en croute, adorned with fennel pollen, caviar and champagne beurre blanc. Choose Chef Valette’s “Trust Me” tasting menu for an adventure. No trip to Healdsburg is complete without a visit to the LGBTQ-owned Noble Folk Ice Cream & Pie Bar. Its range covers all cravings from classic vanilla bean to adventurous black sesame and pistachio cherry. Whether you want a coffee, scoop or pie slice, this sweet haven has you covered. Ask about their offmenu seasonal delights for a unique twist.

HOW TO GET THERE By Air: Charles M. Schulz-Sonoma County Airport (STS) is about 10 miles south of Healdsburg. You can rent a car from the airport or use other transportation options to reach Healdsburg. By Car: If you’re driving from San Francisco, take US-101 North and then exit onto CA-128 West. Alternatively, you can take the scenic route along the Pacific Coast Highway (CA-1) and then connect to CA-128.

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 93

1889 MAPPED

The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1889. Oroville

Bellingham

San Juan Islands

Friday Harbor

North Cascades National Park

Mount Vernon

Port Port Angeles Townsend Sequim

Forks

Shelton Aberdeen

Newport

Marysville Everett Chelan

Seattle Bellevue

Port Orchard

Tacoma

Colville Okanogan

Whidbey Island

Olympic National Park

Republic

Winthrop

Leavenworth

Renton Kent Federal Way

Wilbur

Waterville

Spokane Davenport

Wenatchee Ephrata Ritzville

Montesano Olympia

Mount Rainier N.P.

Ellensburg Colfax

Chehalis

South Bend

Pullman Yakima Pomeroy

Long Beach Kelso

Cathlamet

Longview

Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument

Richland

Mount Adams

Prosser

Pasco

Dayton

Walla Kennewick Walla

Goldendale Vancouver

Stevenson

Live

Think

Explore

14 Tieton Arts & Humanities

44 Cookies With Tiffany

Dog Woods

22 The Red Pickle

48 Slow Loris

Olympic Discovery Trail

23 Chaps

52 Orca Conservancy

The Historic Davenport Hotel

24 Puget Sound Mycological Society

Lake Chelan

37 Eighth Generation

Healdsburg, California

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2023

Asotin

Remember the last time your family visited the forest? It’s a place of wonder and imagination for the whole family—where stories come to life. And it’s closer than you think. Sounds like it’s time to plan your next visit. Make the forest part of your story today at a local park near you or ﬁnd one at DiscoverTheForest.org.

Until Next Time Running through the Enchantments in fall is a magical experience. photo by Shannon Mahre

The Concrete Advantage.

TIME TO TURN YOUR HOME INTO THE MOST BEAUTIFUL HOME IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD There’s something about Western Interlock pavers and block that makes even the most attractive homes more beautiful. As your local family-owned supplier of pavers and wall block, we look forward to helping you make your dream a reality. find more at westerninterlock.com

EXPLORE NOW

WASHINGTON

STATE

White Pass Ski Resort

YAKIMA VALLEY

Snomobiling on Ahtanum State Park Trails

White Pass Nordic Center Photo by Shannon Mahre

WARM UP WITH LODGING, DINING, BREWERIES AND MORE IN YAKIMA

GET YOUR FREE VISITORS GUIDE AT VISITYAKIMA.COM

Continue for Special Insert

Make Tracks make memories.

Stay StayLonger, & Ski Ski More! Packages Stay 4 nights get one free

Book your McCall, Id winter vacation at

visitmccall.org

Kid-friendly Mt. Bachelor has a top-notch ski school that lets parents and kids thrive. (photo: Mt. Bachelor)

THE 2023/24

SKI RESORT OVERVIEW WHAT’S NEW + WHAT’S AFFORDABLE FOR FAMILIES AT SKI AREAS IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST

THIS YEAR’S SKI SEASON brings intrigue, as we wonder what another El Niño weather pattern will bring us—more snow or less. In the meantime, many ski areas have been busy, adding new facilities, lodges, faster lifts and expanded ski acreage. Still others are doing their best to contain costs and keep prices reasonable for families. In our 2023/24 Ski Resort Overview, we dive into what’s new and what’s reasonable at resorts across the Pacific Northwest.

A publication of Statehood Media

Cover: Big Sky Resort

www.1859oregonmagazine.com www.1889mag.com

photo: Tomas Cohen Photography/Big Sky Resort

2023 SKI NORTHWEST 3

OREGON

MT. BACHELOR Mt. Bachelor is the belle of the ball in Oregon. It has 4,300 acres of terrain, twelve chair lifts, 101 runs, terrain parks, 3,365 feet of vertical and daysworth of territory to ski. While Bachelor can be seen for miles around, it’s 22 miles back into Bend that you’ll find the first lodging accommodations. WHAT’S NEW: This season, Mt. Bachelor unveils its first detachable six-pack chair, replacing the old Skyliner chair. What that means is less time waiting in line and on the chair and more time making turns and hitting rails. DINING + DRINKING: Dining options are easy and plentiful in Bend, where good food and

good beer go hand in hand. To get the best of Bend, begin at its breweries. Lifty’s is the new project of craft beer veteran Chris Justema. The atmosphere, food and beer are spot on for après ski. Deschutes Brewery is well known and worth the wait for its food and drink. Likewise with Crux Fermentation Project, the food and beer are divine and the views of the Cascades are not bad either. Cocktails are best served at the new Waypoint at Northwest Crossing or margaritas at El Sancho in either of its two locations. The best vegetarian meals in Bend are at Wild Rose, a downtown northern Thai restaurant, and Spork, a creative Asian fusion restaurant.

Lifty’s in Bend is the perfect spot for après ski or a hearty weekend brunch before a big day on the slopes. (photo: Lifty’s)

4 SKI NORTHWEST 2023

With more than 4,300 acres of skiable terrain, Mt. Bachelor is the mother of all resorts in Oregon. (photo: Mt. Bachelor)

The night skiing culture at Hoodoo—steep, deep and heat! (photo: Pete Alport/ Hoodoo Ski Area)

HOODOO SKI AREA Known by the motto “Steep, Deep and Cheap,” Hoodoo is a budget alternative to the popular Mt. Bachelor. It has thirty-six runs, 800 skiable acres and five lifts. On the Santiam Pass, Hoodoo’s base elevation is 4,700 feet. Though Hoodoo gets an average annual snowfall of 450 inches, the resort struggles with weather patterns atop the Santiam Pass. When the snow is plentiful, Hoodoo is a classic small-resort experience. Just 21 miles northwest of Sisters, Hoodoo gives its skiers and riders a thrilling day at the slopes and the benefits of being close to the cozy western town of Sisters. Enjoy reduced rates with the Hoodoo AnyCard, which puts

you on the slopes for less than $66 for any five days with no blackout dates. Never forget Thrifty Thursdays, when discount lift tickets are just $29! And kids 7 and under always ski free at Hoodoo! DINING + DRINKING: A few favorites in the Sisters area are Three Creeks Brewery on the FivePine Lodge campus, Angelina’s Bakery for vegan and vegetarian food of the most divine quality and The Open Door for modern Italian cuisine and Oregon wines. Sisters Bakery on the main street, Cascade Avenue, also makes the mother of all fritters. A family of four could greedily share one. AT LEFT Not far from Hoodoo, The Open Door in Sisters offers modern Italian cuisine in a cozy setting. (photo: Sisters Area Chamber of Commerce)

2023 SKI NORTHWEST 5

OREGON

MT. HOOD MEADOWS Mt. Hood Meadows ski area is 35 scenic miles south of Hood River. Meadows, as it’s known, has 2,150 acres of terrain, 2,777 vertical feet, eleven lifts and eighty-seven trails. Its reputation soars with advanced skiers as its terrain offers a lot in the expert range. Daily ticket prices vary as Meadows now uses dynamic pricing based on demand. Mt. Hood Meadows has its ValuePass to make skiing more affordable for locals. Under the ValuePass, the discounts are substantial: junior (7-14) $369, young adult (15-24) $399, adult (25-64) $519, and senior (65-74) $419. But the reduced price comes with restrictions from December 22 to January 1 and on weekends through March. DINING + DRINKING: In the Fruit Loop of Oregon, Hood River sits at the nexus of great craft beer and wine, a nice problem to have. Perhaps the best way to split the difference is at restaurants like Solstice Wood Fire Pizza and Four & Twenty Blackbirds food truck, which have beautiful vegetarian options. Double Mountain Brewery has delicious beer and the best truffle pizza combo. For the full experience, try Celilo downtown, which brings together local meat, produce and wine in a romantic atmosphere.

Go big at Mt. Hood Meadows. (photo: Richard Hallman/Mt. Hood Meadows)

6 SKI NORTHWEST 2023

The family-friendly Mt. Ashland is relatively inexpensive and adjacent to a town with some of the best restaurants in the state. (photo: Mt. Ashland Ski Area)

MT. ASHLAND Mt. Ashland has five lifts serving forty-four runs and 1,150 vertical feet over 240 acres. Though it’s not a massive resort, on good snow years, it is the perfect old-school retreat from the masses. Keep your eye on the El Niño effect

ANTHONY LAKES MOUNTAIN RESORT Just north of Baker City in Eastern Oregon, Anthony Lakes daily passes come at a family budget rate with adults $50, students $45 and children $35. The old-school ski area feels a little like the one you grew up with, but with a twist. The terrain can get a little steep. The snow can get very deep and the backcountry or cat skiing can be top-shelf pow pow. One triple chair serves twenty-one runs and 1,100 acres. Anthony Lakes’ Starbottle Saloon in the lodge is itself worth the journey.

this year to see whether that leads to more snow for Mt. Ashland, with its base elevation of 6,344 feet. Lift passes are relatively reasonable at $69 for adults (13-69), $59 for children (7-12), while ages 6 and younger and 70 and older ski free.

DINING + DRINKING: Caldera Brewery has it right when it comes to solid pub fare and tasty craft beers. For a full culinary experience, treat yourself to Larks Home Kitchen, where everything is made from local sources and with the finest care.

WHAT’S NEW: A new master plan for Anthony Lakes reveals modest improvements over the next decade for the ski area. Aside from more mountain bike trails, snowcat skiers will soon see a 30-foot yurt on the back of the mountain with cooking, heating and dining. The master plan also calls for a thinning of trees to open more skiable acres in the future. DINING + DRINKING: For dining options in Baker City, Latitude 45 Grille serves local meat in the form of steak and burgers, and Mulan Garden is good for vegetarian options.

ABOVE, FROM TOP Anthony Lakes in Eastern Oregon is a true local gem and a fun throwback destination. Latitude 45 Grille in Baker City brings together local and protein in a savory way. (photos, from top: Alyssa Henry/ Anthony Lakes, Latitude 45 Grille)

Y t Y p

YOU live for the RUSH. You’re our people.

There’s a certain breed of folks who seek inspiration off the beaten path. We know because we’re those folks too. Whether captivated by the natural beauty of our surroundings or our warm and friendly town, Hood River is the year-round destination for what moves you. Plan your journey at VisitHoodRiver.com

Photo: Richard Hallman

WASHINGTON

MT. BAKER SKI AREA Just under 60 miles east of Bellingham and in the North Cascades, Mt. Baker is seen as a locals’ mountain buttressed by season pass holders. For non-locals, Baker parses age groups for daily lift prices more so than most ski areas (and down to the

WHITE PASS SKI AREA Less than an hour west of Yakima, White Pass Ski Area sets up nicely for families, with half of its runs intermediate, a third beginner and a smattering of advanced runs. In all, there are 1,400 skiable acres, with 2,000 feet of vertical covering six chairlifts and forty-five runs. White Pass’s Nordic skiing comprises 18 kilometers of groomed skinny skiing. WHAT’S NEW: A new group of local owners took over White

penny), and that may benefit some families—adult (16-59) $91.20, youth (11-15) $56.48, child (7-10) $38.89, senior (60-69) $76.85, and super senior (70+) $53.70. Depending on the ages of those in your family Mt. Baker may thread the needle for you. Baker has eight quad chairs,

1,500 vertical feet and 1,000 acres of deep snow.

Pass in 2022, setting out modest changes in the near term and eyeing bigger plans for the future. White Pass will add new cross-country trails to its existing network and installed a new Magic Carpet for tots and beginner skiers. The new management was also reportedly looking to add a new lift and, possibly, a new base area building, too.

Canyon Kitchen and Crafted. Both have a full bar, craft beer and tantalizing menus.

DINING + DRINKING: For both dining and drinking, two places in Yakima stand out—Cowiche

DINING + DRINKING: For dining and drinking, head back to Bellingham for a lively brewery scene that includes Aslan and Kulshan breweries and restaurants Lombardi’s and Keenan’s at the Pier, as well as dozens more.

Farm-to-table Crafted in downtown Yakima. (photo: Crafted)

White Pass Ski Area west of Yakima has both alpine and Nordic ski options. (photo: Jason Hummel/State of Washington Tourism)

8 SKI NORTHWEST 2023

CRYSTAL MOUNTAIN Approximately 85 miles southeast of Seattle, Crystal Mountain has been the magnet for Seattleites as well as Washington’s other top urban centers. Washington’s largest ski resort, Crystal offers 2,600 acres with 2,400 vertical feet. WHAT’S NEW: Colorado-based Alterra Mountain Company bought Crystal Mountain in 2018 and brought whispers of capital improvements. Soon it had laid out an ambitious five-year $100 million improvement plan, which includes a reimagined base area called Mountain Commons. The cornerstone of the new Mountain Commons is a new 25,000-square-foot lodge that will have four new dining locations, retail space, more seating for guests and faster access to lifts. The Mountain Commons will be open this season. DINING + DRINKING: Because Crystal is on the relatively remote edge of Mt. Rainier National Forest, most consumption is done on the mountain itself. Crystal’s restaurants channel the great vibes for après ski eat and drink. Fireside Cantina at the base and Summit House Restaurant at the top of the gondola combine views, brews and amusebouche for your dining experience.

Crystal Mountain will show off its $100 million facelift along with great stashes of powder this winter. (photo: Jason Hummel/ Crystal Mountain)

2023 SKI NORTHWEST 9

WASHINGTON

MT. SPOKANE SKI & SNOWBOARD PARK Approximately 30 miles northeast of Spokane, the ski area is home to seven lifts, fifty-two runs and more than 1,700 acres. The daily lift ticket isn’t the cheapest in the Northwest, but moderate for the region. Adults (18-59) $75, youth (7-17) $68, children (6 and under) free, seniors (60-69) $68 and super seniors (70-79) $45. Take $15 off your lift ticket price if you’re a late riser and start after 12:30 p.m. WHAT’S NEW: Two years ago, the two lodges at Mt. Spokane were renovated, adding a new dining area, new equipment and new garage doors opening to an outdoor patio. Together, this elevated the dining culture at Mt. Spokane.

ABOVE The Spokane Ski & Snowboard Park just outside of Spokane, with renovated lodges to boot. AT LEFT Hogwash Whiskey Den is a speakeasy with cocktail options for whiskey lovers. (photos, from top: Lindsey Bangsberg/ Mt. Spokane Ski & Snowboard Park, Visit Spokane)

DINING + DRINKING: Head into Spokane, which has become a booming culinary scene—from restaurants such as Zona Blanca ceviche bar and delicate pastas at Gander & Ryegrass as well as alluring cocktail bars like Bistango Martini Lounge and Hogwash Whiskey Den.

METHOW VALLEY

Cross-country nirvana. The Methow Valley has America’s best trails and largest network in a heavenly setting. (photo: Methow Trails)

10 SKI NORTHWEST 2023

One of the planet’s best Nordic ski areas is Methow Valley. The tiny community here maintains more than 130 miles of groomed trails as they connect one small town on the eastern shoulder of the North Cascades to each other. The string of towns along this part of the valley are Mazama, Winthrop and Twisp. Day passes are $30 for adults. Kids age 17 and under ski free as do seniors 75 and older.

DINING + DRINKING: The small towns of the Methow Valley have surprisingly good choices for dining—from the deli at the Mazama Store, to creative Asian dishes at Linwood and unforgettable Italian cuisine at Tappi in Twisp, you won’t miss the big-city culinary scene. For old school burgers and good beer, the Old Schoolhouse Brewery in Winthrop is the place.

Your Year-Round Getaway!

Discover North America’s Largest Network of Cross-Country Ski Trails Boutique shopping, affordable lodging, delicious food, and plenty of outdoor recreation. WinthropWashington.com

SKINNY SKIS welcome 200+km groomed daily kids ski free

methowtrails.org

IDAHO

SCHWEITZER In northern Idaho’s Selkirk Range, Schweitzer is truly a hidden gem with 2,900 acres of skiing across four chairlifts and an impressive 2,400 feet of vertical. WHAT’S NEW: A new spa, Cambium, is one of the features of more than $5 million in improvements at Schweitzer. Other improvements include enhancements to Schweitzer’s chairlifts and snowmaking to an increase in the resort’s daycare capacity.

Schweitzer is like a small European ski resort tucked away in northern Idaho. (photo: Schweitzer)

BRUNDAGE MOUNTAIN RESORT Just 9 miles north of McCall, Brundage Mountain Resort has five lifts covering 1,920 acres and a vertical drop of 1,921 feet. Daily lift tickets for adults (18-69) are $86, $62 for teens (13-17), $40 for kids (7-12), $62 for seniors (70+) and free for kids 6 and younger. For those who prefer skinnier skis, McCall has fantastic groomed Nordic trails nearby. Little Bear Basin, Ponderosa State Park and Jug Mountain Ranch are just a few areas where novice to novel skiers can kick and glide through amazing outdoor scenes.

SKI NORTHWEST 2023

DINING + DRINKING: A village unto itself, Schweitzer has plenty of reasons to keep you from driving into Sandpoint. Pastas at Chimney Rock Grill and burgers at Crow’s Bench are just two examples that will keep you in the village and off of the winding road back to Sandpoint.

WHAT’S NEW: Brundage Resort’s $25-$30 million improvement plan is underway with a new detachable quad that reduces the uphill travel time by nearly two-thirds and, next year, a new Mountain Adventure Center that includes a 1,700 square-foot building with guest services, ticketing, retail, rentals, Brundage’s mountain sports school and a coffee shop. DINING + DRINKING: Cutwater on Payette Lake for lobster bisque and wine, Rupert’s Restaurant for elk meatloaf and McCall Brewing Company for burgers are a few good options in McCall, a town that has many more to choose from.

W T

A new lift at Brundage Resort means less time on the lift and more time on the snow. (photo: Visit Idaho)

Traverse 149 miles of groomed cross-country trails, savor gourmet dining, and bond with family in Winthrop, WA. With skis, lessons, and passes conveniently located at the Lodge, make us your ski getaway.

509.996.2211 www.SunMountainLodge.com

604 Patterson Lake Rd | Winthrop, WA | 98862

USE CODE "XCSKI" FOR 20% OFF A WINTER SKI GETAWAY

WINTER AT THE LODGE

ski | snowshoe | sled | learn | play

IDAHO SUN VALLEY Ski glam doesn’t come cheap at Sun Valley. New lifts and new terrain make Idaho’s premier resort worth the trip. (photo: Jon Mancuso-Idarado Media/ Sun Valley Resort)

The birthplace of lift-serve skiing and the nostalgic winter playground of Hollywood’s golden era, Sun Valley has charm, history, people-watching and more than 2,000 skiable acres. The main Warm Springs Lodge at Bald Mountain (Sun Valley Resort’s main ski area) was renovated in 2019 after a fire ripped through and gutted it in 2018. Rest assured, the glamor of the original was dutifully restored. The resort has 121 runs, eighteen lifts and 3,400 feet of vertical drop. WHAT’S NEW: The addition of lift-served access to more than 400 acres of new terrain on Bald Mountain and two new chairlifts at Warm Springs bring new adventures to America’s alpine ski birthplace. The daily ski passes remain in the affordability of Hollywood stars (pre-strike), with adult day passes more than $210, children approximately $114 and seniors around $138 each. DINING + DRINKING: The main street classics (Pioneer Saloon, Sawtooth Club and Whiskey Jacques’) may be overrun on any given weekend. Shoot for Despo’s for top-notch Mexican cuisine and margaritas. Il Naso is an intimate Italian restaurant out of the fray and with a deep wine list. For cocktails, head back to Main Street to either Warfield’s Distillery & Brewery or to Limelight Hotel, where you can sit indoors or outdoors in a courtyard that overlooks a little park that houses the regional museum.

The birthplace of lift-serve skiing and the nostalgic winter playground of Hollywood’s golden era, Sun Valley has charm, history, people-watching and more than 2,000 skiable acres.

SKI NORTHWEST 2023

1889 Washington's Magazine + Special Insert: Ski Northwest | October/November 2023

Articles inside

Washington's Wild Eats: Foraging Tips and Tours