1889 Washington's Magazine | October/November 2020

Coffee Without the Bean

TRIP PLANNER: VANCOUVER PG. 88

Skiing During Coronavirus

Washington’s Best Bottle Shops

K N I R D T EA y a W YoTHuRrOUGH

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n o t g n a shi

THE PNW HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE 1889mag.com $5.95 display until November 30, 2020

LIVE

THINK

EXPLORE

WASHINGTON

October | November

volume 22

ALCOHOL BEVERAGE LAWS VARY BY STATE. PLEASE BE GUIDED ACCORDINGLY. © 2020 ELYSIAN BREWING COMPANY, SEATTLE, WA

An orchard of red globe peaches at Walters’ Fruit Ranch in the Green Bluff area near Spokane.

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OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2020

Sweet as Pie photography by Young Kwak Along the Green Bluff loop near Spokane, orchards and growers welcome visitors to pick, taste and generally enjoy the beauty of Washington’s bountiful lands. The growers’ association, founded in 1902, has been promoting agricultural tourism for decades. Hit the road, support local growers and be ready to come home with armfuls of goodness. (pg. 66)

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2020

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 5

FEATURES

Seattle’s Sawyer has cocktails and entrees filled with Washington bounty.

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2020 • volume 22

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The PNW Holiday Gift Guide

A Peach of a Day Trip

In 2020, we’ve all learned a lot about what’s really important. To that end, we searched the Pacific Northwest for items that make home more comfortable, outdoor adventures more fun, and that bring us together, even when we have to be 6 feet apart.

If it’s fresh produce you seek, head north of Spokane to the more than five dozen farms along the Green Bluff loop. You won’t be disappointed.

photography by Toby Nolan

50 Bounty Hunters Washington is rich in its bounty— from the fruit that grows in the Yakima Valley to the waters that provide us with seafood to the beer and wine we cultivate in downtowns and small towns.

So take a trip—eat and drink your way through this special state. written by Sheila G. Miller

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photography by Young Kwak

DEPARTMENTS

LIVE 14 SAY WA?

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2020 • volume 22

Soak up everything Washington has to offer in the waning days of fall, then curl up with a good Washington history book and some sweet Seattle tunes.

18 FOOD + DRINK

Find a cookbook at Seattle’s most delicious bookstore, The Book Larder, then grab bottles at one of Washington’s best bottle shops.

22 FARM TO TABLE

In Lynden, the Holmquist family grows hazelnuts so delicious, customers return the favor with baked goods.

28 HOME + DESIGN

The bathroom is an underrated, vital part of every home. Come inside three reimagined bathrooms that combine function and beauty. Then, learn more about picking out the perfect tile.

34 MIND + BODY

Jackie Dodd

76

In a COVID-free world, Hazen Audel would be in a punishing location shooting episodes for his TV show. Instead, he’s building a house in Spokane.

36 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE

Brad Rude spent years learning how to create bronze sculptures at a local foundry.

Today, he makes sculptures of his own that are sure to delight.

THINK 40 STARTUP

Atomo Molecular Coffee is coffee without the bean. Yes, you read that right.

42 WHAT’S GOING UP

In Seattle, Urban Visions has two projects slated for completion in 2023 that will change the face of the city.

44 WHAT I’M WORKING ON

Washington State University’s new bachelor’s degree in viticulture and enology is the next step in Washington’s wine dominance.

46 MY WORKSPACE

When you enter the unassuming Cugini Italian Imports & Deli in Walla Walla, prepare to be transported.

48 GAME CHANGER

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18 10 11 94 96

Editor’s Letter 1889 Online Map of Washington Until Next Time

Spokane’s GoToTags let people connect to the objects around them, using technology and their smartphones.

EXPLORE 76 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT

Get the farm experience for all ages at Bellewood Farms in Lynden, as well as a sample of the distilled spirits on sale.

78 ADVENTURE

Hitting the mountain during the coronavirus may look different than normal—but if you’re itching to hit the slopes, we’ve got the latest information on how to do it safely.

86 LODGING

The Society Hotel in Bingen combines the wonders of an old converted schoolhouse with the joy of fine cabin living.

88 TRIP PLANNER COVER

photo by Emily Joan Greene (see Farm to Table, pg. 22)

Don’t sleep on Vancouver. This city is changing from bedroom community to a destination in its own right.

92 NORTHWEST DESTINATION

Explore the best the Oregon Coast has to offer in Newport, where fine seafood meets stunning views and tons of entertainment.

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2020

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CONTRIBUTORS

JACKIE DODD Writer and Photographer Beervana

TOBY NOLAN Photographer The PNW Holiday Gift Guide

CORINNE WHITING Writer Farm to Table

BEN SALMON Writer Musician

I’m continuously impressed by the open hearts of the people in craft beer. The overwhelming majority are salt-of-the-Earth types who want to give back and help others in any way possible. Writing the article about the Black is Beautiful beer, it was clear politics weren’t involved, it was just a pure impulse to make sure all people feel accepted and welcomed into the taprooms.

It’s just another example of how amazing the craft beer community is at its core. (pg. 18)

Creating the images for this year’s Holiday Gift Guide combined a number of my favorite aspects of photography: lighting, composition and storytelling.

Working with larger groups of products involved everything from using natural light while shooting from the top rung of an 8-foot ladder to building sets that involved multiple lights, reflectors, diffusers and props.

Starting with an idea and then constructing an environment that brings that idea to life is always a fun experience. (pg. 57)

At a time when the world feels especially topsy-turvy, I find comfort remembering that plants keep sprouting, beautiful crops keep growing and Mother Nature keeps doing her (cyclical) thing. I always love interviewing people about their life’s work, and this assignment gave me newfound insight into Washington’s wonderful world of hazelnuts—and a fifthgeneration farm in Lynden that delights longtime customers who consistently come back for more. (pg. 22)

I’ve been writing about the Northwest music scene for more than twenty years, both as a full-time reporter and critic and as a freelancer for 1889 and alt-weeklies. I’ve been around long enough to remember when Smokey Brights first started touring, and I believe their new album is the best thing they’ve ever done. (pg. 16)

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OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2020

EDITOR Kevin Max

MANAGING EDITOR Sheila G. Miller CREATIVE DIRECTOR Allison Bye

WEB MANAGER

OFFICE MANAGER

DIRECTOR OF SALES

SALES ASSISTANT

BEERVANA COLUMNIST

Aaron Opsahl Cindy Miskowiec Jenny Kamprath Elijah Aikens Jackie Dodd

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Colleen Craine, Melissa Dalton, Mike Galvin, Matthew Milner, Ben Salmon, Cara Strickland, Corinne Whiting

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Cindy Apple, Jackie Dodd, Emily Joan Greene, Young Kwak, Petar Marshall, Toby Nolan

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All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmitted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs appearing in 1889 Washington’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. 1889 Washington’s Magazine and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily those of 1889 Washington’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2020

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 9

WE WANT WASHINGTON to know that even though, as we publish, there are more than a half million acres ablaze in wildfires across the state, no relief in sight for the pandemic and no new stimulus bill for businesses, we are still here, working remotely to support every region of the state in hopes of better days ahead.

While travel is relatively safe in many areas of the state, others are still under advisory. Please be sure to check with local authorities before planning your visit. Now, let’s get on with life.

In this issue of 1889, we teased out some really cool and locally made goods that now make up our Gift Guide. As always, we select from the best of the goods and services from Oregon and Washington makers. Life is bella when the supply chain is known, trusted and local. Turn to pg.

57 for local feel-good shopping.

One big ticket item this holiday season also implies one big question—skiing. Is it safe? What are ski areas doing to keep us safer while we ski and snowboard right though this global pandemic? We get an inside glimpse into what skiing and snowboarding will look like this winter season on pg. 78.

Holidays have always meant family, and food and drink. Now, more than ever, this is our mandate. Fear not. We have cooked up a tray of ideas and recipes for you in this issue. First, this is a time of beautiful Washington bounty. Sheila G. Miller takes us on a rambling trip across the state (pg. 50), minding the best COVID practices while indulging in the Evergreen State’s everpresent culinary delights. Use this as a basis for your own regional foodie outing.

Second, nothing settles us into the holidays more than holiday crooners and hazelnuts. Hazelnuts from a long-standing farm in Lynden are the topic of our Farm to Table (pg. 22) and the recipes that follow, including rigatoni with hazelnut pesto and Campari-glazed scallops with hazelnuts.

Third, drink with a purpose. Meet coffee entrepreneurs who have engineered the bean and farming out of coffee. Seeking a solution to environmental concerns over the growth of mass coffee farming, a microbiologist and a serial entrepreneur in Seattle found they could make coffee by reverse engineering the coffee bean’s molecular processes. Atomo Molecular Coffee (Startup, pg. 40) launches a cold brew to be followed with coffee and molecular beans in 2021.

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OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2020

Jenn Redd

FROM THE EDITOR

Finally, beer can save the world, or, at least, make it a better place. The story of Métier Brewing Company in Woodinville, one of the country’s few Black-owned breweries, brings together the pulse of the nation at the right moment. Led by Rodney Hines, Métier’s new label Say it Loud: Stout and Proud, a pale stout, kicks back the proceeds to community organizations that support inclusion and racial justice (pg. 18).

This holiday season, let’s put high on our donation list the local businesses doing the right thing and organizations that fight this battle day in and day out. Cheers!

1889 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Washington content www.1889mag.com | #1889washington | @1889washington

washington: in focus Have a photo that captures your Washington experience? Share it with us by filling out the Washington: In Focus form on our website. If chosen, you’ll be published here. www.1889mag.com/ in-focus photo by Alejandro Carranza On the Washington coast.

ENTER TO WIN bounty prize package

GIVEAWAY Want to win items from this issue’s PNW Holiday Gift Guide? Keep an eye on our social media feeds for a chance to enter.

Enter for a chance to win a bounty prize package from MilkRun! Two winners will each receive two large MilkRun produce boxes and a $100 gift certificate to a Tournant dinner event. Each produce box is chef-curated, with contents changing weekly to feature the freshest seasonal produce available. Contest runs November 5 through December 6.

Enter online at www.1889mag.com

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2020

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 11

SAY WA? 14 FOOD + DRINK 18 FARM TO TABLE 22 HOME + DESIGN 28 MIND + BODY 34

pg. 28 A bathroom refresh gives new life to an oft-used space.

Cindy Apple

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 36

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say wa?

Tidbits & To-dos

&Tonic The holidays fast approach, and there’s never been a better year to celebrate ending. &Tonic simplifies the cocktail-making process with its artisanal tonic syrup. Made in Seattle, &Tonic has a citrus flavor, a little bitterness and a lot of spice.

CA mar LE k yo ND ur AR

www.andtonic.co

Seattle Queer Film Festival The show must go on. This film festival, celebrating its twenty-fifth year, will take place virtually (and maybe with some hybrid showings) between October 15 and October 25. The event is put on by the Three Dollar Bill Cinema, and traditionally features first-rate documentaries and feature films. www.threedollarbillcinema.org

Outdoor museums If you’re not quite ready to get your culture indoors, bundle up, grab your rain coat and check out an outdoor museum. The Pacific Bonsai Museum’s outdoor display of dozens of tiny trees is sure to enchant. And the San Juan Islands Sculpture Park has more than 150 sculptures across 20 acres. www.pacificbonsaimuseum.org www.sjisculpturepark.com

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ur yo AR k r ma END

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Pavilion Light Show Every weekend in Spokane, year round, the city’s Pavilion in Riverfront Park provides a light show for the public.

The Pavilion was originally built for the World’s Fair in 1974, and thanks to a recent restoration, is designed today to be a gathering place for the community. There may not be a lot of events to get excited about right now, but the colorful light shows can tide us over.

Libby Kamrowski/Visit Spokane

www.my.spokanecity.org/ riverfrontspokane

Rainier Gin Every good Washington resident holds a place in their hearts for the iconic Rainier Beer.

Can you open your heart a little more and welcome Rainier's newest offering? As we've already said, 2020 is a great year to say goodbye to with a toast, and Rainier Mountain Fresh Gin will help wash away memories of this challenging year.

Camelina Gold We’ve all learned a lot about our cooking skills during the pandemic. Now, take those skills and give them some local flavor—Eastern Washington’s Ole World Oils makes camelina oil, a flavorful cooking option high in omega-3s and vitamin E.

www.rainierbeer.com/ rainier-mountain-fresh-gin

www.camelinagold.com

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2020

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say wa?

Jake Hanson

Musician

Going for It

Seattle’s Smokey Brights poured all into the band and found their truest form written by Ben Salmon

Listen on Spotify

LIKE A LOT of musicians, the members of Seattle’s Smokey Brights came to a point where they had to decide if they were going to seriously pursue the band as a creative vehicle and potential career option, or if they’d let it become a hobby—something they fit in around day jobs and on weekends.

“We could’ve easily broken up in that moment of, like, ‘Huh, well, we’ve used our two weeks of vacation every year to go tour, and fortune and fame hasn’t found us,’” said Ryan Devlin, who fronts Smokey Brights with his wife, Kim West. “I think a lot of people get discouraged (at that point) but we just kind of doubled down.”

So Devlin, who works in publishing, and West, an attorney, scaled back their full-time jobs to contract positions. They started treating the songwriting and recording process more like a job, and they—along with drummer Nick Krivchenia and bassist Luke Logan—committed to touring as much as possible.

“We came to this understanding that if we wanted the universe to recognize the intention that we planned on putting into our music, we needed to put that intention into the music to begin with,” West said. “It kind of feeds itself.”

Smokey Brights had already been busy for years, with a handful of singles, EPs and full-length albums under their 16

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belts, not to mention scores of shows all over the country.

But once they decided to spend more time and effort on the band, things started to come together in ways they hadn’t before, Devlin said.

“All of the connectivity that you need for a group to realize a sound started to fall into place,” he said. “I think what we’ve found is Smokey Brights in its truest form.”

You can hear exactly that all over the band’s newest album, I Love You But Damn, which came out in July. Where Smokey Brights used to be a band with a funky foundation, a psychedelic edge and a predilection for throwback sounds, Damn finds them fully embracing their love for classic rock, vintage R&B, cosmic pop and even disco.

“You love what you love,” said Devlin, who cites Fleetwood Mac, Tom Petty and ABBA as influences, alongside more contemporary punk, hip-hop and neo-soul music. “What we’re making now is what naturally comes out. It took us years to get here, but we’re recognizing it now and we’re running with it.”

say wa?

Bibliophile

Reframing History Aaron Goings examines the Ghoul of Grays Harbor interview by Sheila G. Miller

IN HIS NEW BOOK, The Port of Missing Men, St. Martin’s University professor Aaron Goings asks us all to take another look at Billy Gohl, the “Ghoul of Grays Harbor.” Gohl, and widely considered one of the Pacific Northwest’s most prolific serial killers responsible for dozens of dead people found floating in the water around Aberdeen in the early twentieth century, was a labor leader who, Goings argues, was not the monster he was made out to be. Goings combines true crime with a chilling look at anti-union sentiment and the way sailors and lumbermen were treated.

Lots of people are mischaracterized by history. Why was it important for people to understand who Billy Gohl really was?

People often say that “history is written by the victors,” and while that’s perhaps too simplistic, it’s certainly true that in the United States, elites (employers, editors, politicians) have tremendous power to shape the narrative about both individuals and events. Billy Gohl—a migratory worker and immigrant turned union activist—has been remembered as a monster, one of the worst serial killers in history. His life, his work and his activism have been written out of history, replaced by rumors and myths created by his enemies.

To be clear, Gohl was convicted of one murder in a trial that can’t be described as “just.” Although Gohl is relatively famous—or infamous— I’m more interested in what his work life and activism (and the efforts by regional elites to silence him) can tell us about wider trends in United States and Pacific Northwest history.

What surprised you about the labor practices in Grays Harbor and how anti-union sentiment shaped the region?

I’ve long said that researching labor history and finding violence against workers is like researching the prom

Aaron Goings, a professor of history and political science at St. Martin’s University in Lacey.

and finding dancing. Most Pacific Northwest employers were (and are) fervently anti-union, and are willing to do most anything to break unions and keep workplaces as undemocratic as possible. Fighting unionization through violence was the norm during the early twentieth century. Employers in Grays Harbor raided union halls, beat and shot picketers, and evicted union activists from town, just like employers did in California, in New England and in Florida.

What did surprise me was the uniformity of anti-union sentiment and the eager embrace of militant anti-unionism by the entire employing class, and most of the regional press and state officials. Elites who fought unions with fire were not a few “bad eggs”—they were the norm.

What were some of the challenges of sourcing this book?

The confusion around Billy Gohl’s life comes from the fact that journalists and “true crime” authors have written about Gohl by making selective use of sources that were produced by Gohl’s enemies: the bosses and politicians he fought, the labor spies paid to manufacture evidence against him, and newspaper editors who aligned closely with employers.

Every few years another author repeats the same story as the one created by Gohl’s enemies in early 1910 when he was arrested and put on trial.

I used whatever sources I could find that related to Gohl’s life and times, including a large body of writings by Gohl and his fellow unionists. These sources tell a very different history than the “serial killer” myth.

What are some of the public safety initiatives that changed along the waterfront that slowed the deaths that made up the Floater Fleet?

Gohl dedicated his life to making public spaces safer and healthier. He knew full well that environmental and public health issues disproportionately impacted workers and working-class spaces. Gohl wrote articles and delivered speeches condemning the employers, saloon owners, and boardinghouse keepers who grew rich by exploiting migratory workers. Billy wanted the waterfront—the spaces occupied by workers—to be safer, guarded against those who prey upon poor folks. He helped build shacks alongside Grays Harbor waterways so that migratory workers—who because of their worklives frequently experienced homelessness—had places to live. He advocated for the installation of streetlights along the waterfront, and the regulation of saloons, the places where so many working people met foul ends. Gohl wasn’t a prohibitionist, but he did believe in tight state regulation over the liquor business.

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1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 17

food + drink

Beervana

Breweries Take a Stand to Foster Social Change written and photographed by Jackie Dodd “AS STRANGE AS it sounds, for some people, buying this beer is something tangible they can do when it feels like there is nothing they can do,” Métier owner Rodney Hines said as he took a break in an otherwise hectic day to chat about running a small craft brewery in the eye of the storm that’s been 2020.

Métier is the only Black-owned brewery in Washington. In the aftermath of the murder of George Floyd and a resurgence of the Black Lives Matter movement, the beer community immediately stepped up, brewing beers to generate money to fund the movement. Of course, the money is a drop in the bucket, and it may not move the proverbial needle more than a tiny nudge, but the message is clear: The beer community is here to support; we have your back, we stand with you. The most prominent example is one that Hines’ brewery, Métier Brewing, participated in, called Black is Beautiful.

It started in Texas, just after the video of Floyd went viral, when the owner of Weathered Souls Brewing Co. decided to launch a beer collaboration to raise money for those boots-onthe-ground organizations doing the hard work to push change.

The beer recipe was posted online and a call to action made to all breweries, large and small, to brew the beer and give 100 percent of the proceeds to community organizations aimed at supporting inclusion and fighting racial injustice. As of this printing, that initiative has more than 1,000 breweries worldwide in more than nineteen countries. More than thirty breweries in Washington alone are participating with their version of the Black is Beautiful Russian Imperial Stout.

Hines’ version, a beer collaboration with Hellbent Brewing of Lake City, named Say it Loud: Stout and Proud, is much different. In the depths of the summer heat, with an Imperial stout already in the Métier lineup, the brewery opted for a milder, more approachable 5.7% ABV pale stout infused with coffee from Boon Boona, an exclusively African coffee roaster based in Renton. For the artwork, when most breweries were downloading and tweaking the standard beer label, Hines and Hellbent decided to take the initiative further, partnering with local Black artist Perri Rhoden. With a time crunch on their hands, they knew asking Rhoden to design a label from scratch might not be feasible. In Rhoden’s studio, they saw a painting hanging on the wall, a red and black image of a woman—beautiful, young, defiant and proud—and they knew it was what they wanted. “She reminded me of the women I see at the marches, so determined,” Hines said of the powerful image.

Inquiring about the one-of-a-kind piece, their hearts set on it, Rhoden had to break the news that it was already sold. She’d need permission from the new owner before moving forward.

The owners granted that permission, and a few weeks later, 18 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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the beer securely in cans wrapped with Rhoden’s powerful image, it was released in the taprooms of Lake City’s Hellbent and Woodinville’s Métier. It sold out in just days—a powerful reminder that beer people largely support the movement and stand behind the message that Black Lives Matter.

Métier and Hellbent weren’t alone in their brewing.

“I was really proud of the North Seattle Homebrewers to see their support for the Black is Beautiful beer initiative. Their response as homebrewers has been really supportive,” said Annie Johnson, a decorated commercial brewer as well as an awardwinning homebrewer. Members of the well-respected North Seattle Homebrewers Club were able to not only convert the Black is Beautiful Russian Imperial Stout commercial recipe into a homebrew recipe (something Johnson is a foremost leading expert on), they also garnered donations of yeast, grains and other specialty ingredients from local suppliers Imperial Yeast, Micro Homebrew and Skagit Valley Malting. The members of the homebrew club used the ingredients for their homebrew, then donated the money they would have spent on those ingredients to local charities. In total, the group raised nearly $1,200 for Seattle-King County Black Lives Matter, The Innocence Project and The Loveland Foundation. “We are planning on making this a yearly brewing project,” Johnson said.

Miles north of the Seattle Homebrew Club, Hellbent and Métier, another brewery began working on a beer to support the Black Lives Matter movement separate from the Black is Beautiful brewing project. Aslan Brewing headquarters in Bellingham worked quickly on the heels of the outrage to produce American Lager, a beer with a blacked-out label that mimicked those squares taking up space in social media feeds days after the Floyd video emerged. Although not a Black is Beautiful beer, the sentiment behind the Aslan beer is similar.

Money from the sale of the beer will go to Seattle-King County Black Lives Matter. Perhaps more importantly, Aslan has taken a public stand against racism and made a decision to actively listen to people of color, fostering conversations on how to better educate themselves and continue to actively practice antiracism in the workplace.

Whether it’s a worldwide collaboration, a brewery one-off, or a homebrew club looking to get involved, the principle of the beer is the same at the bottom of every glass. The beer industry as a whole rose up to stand behind the movement, letting all who would listen know that taprooms are safe places for people of color and allies alike, and racism won’t be tolerated. We stand with you, beer people have said. Let us sit beside you with a good pint, listen to what you need and figure out how we can help.

food + drink

Métier Brewing’s Rodney Hines shows off his Black is Beautiful beer.

BLACK IS BEAUTIFUL IMPERIAL STOUT HOMEBREW RECIPE Annie Johnson and Marcus Baskerville FOR 5.5 US GALLONS • • • • • • • • • • • • •

10 pounds pale malt (2 Row) 2 pounds oat, flaked 1 pound chocolate malt 12 ounces barley, flaked 12 ounces crystal 120 malt 12 ounces roasted barley 8 ounces chocolate rye malt 4 ounces black (Patent) malt 1 pound corn sugar (dextrose) 1 ounce Columbus/ Tomahawk/Zeus (CTZ) hops, 15.5% a.a. (60 min) 2 ounces Cascade hops, 5.5% a.a. (20 min) 2 ounces Cascade hops, 5.5% (10 min) 1 package California Ale Yeast (White Labs WLP001)

SPECIFICATIONS • Original Gravity: 1.081 • Final Gravity: 1.016 • ABV: 8.7% • IBU: 65 • SRM: 46 • Boil Time: 60 minutes • Efficiency: 82% Mash grains at 154 degrees for 60 minutes or until conversion is complete. Continue on to a 60-minute boil, following the hop additions as noted in the ingredient list.

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2020

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food + drink

CRAVINGS POTATO BURRITO Start with crispy potato, then add pinto beans, cheese and a special sauce that ties everything together. Wrap it in a large tortilla.

The finished product has been described as being the size of a small baby, but don’t let that deter you from digging into this Casa Que Pasa favorite.

1415 RAILROAD AVENUE BELLINGHAM www.casaquepasarocks.com

BRISKET TACOS Andrae’s Kitchen is a restaurant in a gas station, but if you close your eyes, you would never believe it.

While the whole menu is craveworthy, there is nothing quite like the brisket, smoked on site and served in housemade tortillas.

706 WEST ROSE STREET WALLA WALLA www.andraeskitchen.com

TRUFFLE FRIES

This food-focused bookstore is carefully curated.

Gastronomy

The Book Larder written by Cara Strickland

The Hardware Store makes the perfect fries with white truffle oil and shaved parmesan with peppercorn aioli, all served in a most historic building on Vashon Island.

Need we say more?

17601 VASHON HIGHWAY SW VASHON www.thsrestaurant.com

BREAKFAST

A STAPLE IN the Fremont neighborhood since the fall of 2011, this cooking- and food-focused bookstore doesn’t let a small footprint get in the way of being well-stocked. The carefully curated collection offers a little something for everyone, including the occasional vintage or collectible title. But the fun doesn’t stop with books. The store aims to be a meeting place for food-focused conversations, with author talks and discussions on a variety of topics. When you walk in, you’ll notice the store features a full kitchen, and it isn’t just for show. Sign up for cooking classes or demonstrations to take your experience beyond the page. Passionate staff are happy to help you find what you’re looking for, introduce you to new favorites, or order in special requests.

If you didn’t know this Whidbey Island delight was there, you might be caught off guard while waiting for the ferry. While Callen’s serves other meals, you can get breakfast all day, and it’s a great choice. Try the corned beef hash, and don’t forget a freshly baked biscuit. Be sure to call ahead or check online for hours, as island time can vary from the mainland.

4252 FREMONT AVENUE NORTH SEATTLE www.booklarder.com

12981 STATE ROUTE 20 COUPEVILLE www.callensrestaurant.com

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food + drink

BEST PLACES TO

BUY CRAFT BEER BOTTLES This spot aims to be the best selection of beer from the region and the world in the Spokane area. Stop in for knowledgeable staff, glasses and pints, or bottles and cans.

3223 N ARGONNE ROAD MILLWOOD www.bottlesspokane.com

DARK MOON CRAFT BEER This cool, approachable bar not only has an amazing selection, but is a meeting place for beverage enthusiasts and ongoing education.

BOTTLEWORKS One of Seattle’s longest-running bottle shops, Bottleworks boasts more than 950 options for beer, cider and mead and the most extensive cellared beer collection in Seattle. As if that weren’t enough, it carries fine chocolates, too.

Fresh seafood is often on this farm-to-table menu.

Dining

Watershed Cafe written by Cara Strickland

If you mainly think of Walla Walla as a wine destination, think again. While this shop offers a wide variety of wines, it also offers a broad beer selection, including rare and limited-release varieties.

Join the World of Beer club for a constant stream of delicious options, or stop into the shop and chat with one of the passionate staff members.

YOU’LL FIND THIS farm-to-table treasure in the heart of downtown Leavenworth, just off the thoroughfare. Treat yourself to balanced cocktails and an ever-evolving menu filled with the bounty of the region, from foraged and locally farmed produce to fresh seafood from the nearby ocean. If you’re more of a carnivore, don’t worry—there are lots of options, all from the surrounding area.

You’ll be eating whatever is delicious and in season in a classy, comfortable environment intended to offer a break from the bustle.

Enjoy a carefully curated wine list or bring your own special bottle for a small corkage fee. Don’t miss happy hour from 5 p.m. to 6 p.m. each day the restaurant is open. This spot is closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays and recommends reservations on all the others, so be sure to call ahead to save your table.

102 EAST MAIN STREET WALLA WALLA www.thiefshop.com

221 8TH ST. LEAVENWORTH www.watershedpnw.com

1710 N 45TH STREET #3 SEATTLE www.bottleworks.com

THE THIEF FINE WINE AND BEER

Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of Baby Bar, Spokane

Oaxacan Old Fashioned

• 1 ounce reposado tequila • 1 ounce mezcal • 2 dashes Angostura bitters

• 1 bar spoon/teaspoon of agave nectar or rich simple syrup • Orange peel to garnish

Pour all of the ingredients into a rocks glass and stir. Add a large ice cube. Garnish with orange peel.

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Allison Bye

319 N PEARL STREET ELLENSBURG www.dmcraftbeer.com

farm to table

Farm to Table

Hooray for Hazelnuts The Holmquist family carries on tradition at their Lynden farm written by Corinne Whiting photography by Emily Joan Greene IF YOU HAD ASKED Richard Holmquist what his future might hold when he was a kid traipsing through the dusty fields of Washington, he couldn’t have guessed. “I never thought in a million years I would come back to the farm,” he said, speaking of the Lynden venue he now owns with his brother and their 82-year-old dad. Holmquist Hazelnut Orchards is a fifth-generation owned-and-operated farm that has gone through many iterations over the decades—from focusing on row crops to dairy.

In the late 1980s, the senior Holmquist sold all their dairy cows, thinking hazelnuts would offer a welcome change of pace and keep the family slightly less tied to the farm all year long. In reality, Richard said, laughing, they’ve learned that hazelnuts are as much work—if not more.

These days they own 100-plus acres, all but 5 of which have been replanted. Those 5 acres are made up of the DuChilly, one of the original European varieties of hazelnut tree introduced to the U.S. in the early 1900s. As far as the Holmquists know, they are the only commercial grower in North America still producing the DuChilly, an oblong variety known for its mild, sweet characteristics. The remaining acreage is made up of Jefferson hazelnuts. The Holmquists also handle and sell hazelnuts from other growers in Washington and Oregon.

Hazelnuts come with countless health benefits. They are rich in antioxidants, high in protein and fiber, and low in saturated fats and cholesterol. They are also the richest source of folate among tree nuts, offering a high concentration of antioxidants in vitamin E, and manganese, which may be helpful as an anti-cancer compound, too.

The nut’s peak pollination season varies based on weather, but typically takes place in January and February. (Pre-harvest prep begins in early September.) Hazelnut trees, which have both male and female flowers, require a variety that is cross-compatible; some varieties’ pollen doesn’t make nuts on other varieties.

Since the hazelnut tree requires a moderate climate and is almost always found close to large bodies of water, Washington, Oregon and British Columbia prove ideal growing spots. These regions boast similar climates to Turkey and Southern Europe. Farmers in Washington face the challenge of a slightly shorter growing season than Oregon—by two or three weeks.

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farm to table

Hazelnuts can be used in a variety of dishes.

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Photos: Richard Holmquist

farm to table

FROM LEFT Holmquist’s orchard is 100-plus acres of hazelnut trees. Hazelnuts grow inside protective husks.

Other hurdles can range from rain, which slows things down by creating longer cleaning and drying times, to freezing rain, which can accumulate enough to break weak branches or even split trees. Farmers must also fight pesky diseases such as Eastern Filbert Blight, which Holmquist said has devastated most of their older, more susceptible varieties. He said getting rid of older, diseased orchards can be a “really hard pill to swallow.”

Walking among these ancient trees feels like stepping back to a different era, and removing them can feel like cutting out part of one’s childhood, too.

On the flip side, Holmquist said replanting gives him a sense of pride in starting fresh, and joy in watching young trees grow into adult trees—tending to them along the way. “You are one with the trees,” he said.

Hazelnut lovers can find Holmquist treasures at farmers markets throughout the state, including in Bellingham, Anacortes, Redmond, Madrona, Seattle’s U District, Edmonds and Mercer Island. Prior to the pandemic, they kept a day stall at Pike Place Market; as of late July, they could be found there every other Friday.

In mid-July, Savor Seattle—a food tour company in Pike Place Market that has successfully pivoted to create delivery boxes supporting market vendors and regional farmers—included Holmquist’s Roasted Sea Salt Hazelnuts in its offerings. Savor Seattle founder Angela Shen explained this choice. “[Holmquist]

was a fantastic day stall merchant at Pike Place that we had not had an opportunity to work with yet,” she said. “Spread the love.”

She added that July’s “Mediterranean Week Market Box” was charcuterie and finger-food focused, so incorporating hazelnuts seemed like a creative way to welcome flavorful crunch.

Although Holmquist prefers to eat hazelnuts as a snack— savory and salted—he does have a sweet tooth that makes the chocolate-covered variety tempting, too. Shen, on the other hand, prefers hazelnut butter, which she often makes from scratch.

“You can do just about anything with hazelnuts,” Holmquist said, adding that they can be a substitute for nearly any nut—and have a more robust flavor than almonds.

The Holmquist family ended 2019 on a high note. However, the COVID-19 pandemic has had a large impact on their direct sales at farmers markets and to restaurants, as it has for so many farmers. “The pandemic has created challenges in other ways, but we are doing our best to work through them to remain sustainable,” Holmquist said. “Our customers have been the best throughout these tough times.”

Holmquist values business from loyal clients, but he also doesn’t complain when support arrives in alluring baked-good form. One particularly delicious memory: When a thoughtful customer delivered a raspberry-hazelnut torte—baked with love and featuring the fruits of the Holmquists’ labor.

“The pandemic has created challenges in other ways, but we are doing our best to work through them to remain sustainable. Our customers have been the best throughout these tough times.”

— Richard Holmquist, co-owner of Holmquist Hazelnut Orchards

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WHEN GOING TO THE BEACH IN A COAT FEELS COMPLETELY NORMAL

You can’t get ! t s e w h t r o N e r o any m The Northwest is a way of life, not just a place – and you can’t get any more Northwest than the Olympic Peninsula. When you’re ready to experience wide open spaces and tranquil places, we’re here to welcome you back!

Get your FREE travel planner and begin your next Northwest adventure at OlympicPeninsula.org.

farm to table

Washington Recipes

Hazelnuts at Home

Rigatoni with Hazelnut Pesto and Vegetables Thompson Seattle / SEATTLE Kaleena Bliss SERVES 4

Melons, Cukes and Zesty Green Chopped Sauce Broadcast Coffee / SEATTLE Lane Bestold SERVES 6-8 FOR SAUCE • ½ cup hazelnuts • ¼ cup olive oil • ¾ cup basil, loosely packed • ½ cup cilantro, loosely packed • ½ cup parsley, loosely packed • 2 limes • 1 lemon • ½ teaspoon cumin • ½ teaspoon coriander • ½ teaspoon cayenne • 1½ teaspoons kosher salt • 1 tablespoon finishing salt

Campari Glazed Scallops 84 Yesler / SEATTLE Shawn Applin SERVES 4 • 12 sea scallops • 2 ounces Campari • 1 ounce sugar • 3 grapefruits • 3 ounces hazelnuts, toasted • 12 ounces broccoli rabe, trimmed Trim the grapefruit with a paring knife, removing all of the outer peel. Section the grapefruits with a paring knife, cutting in between each section. Squeeze the remaining to get all of its juice out.

Blanch the broccoli rabe by cooking for 1 minute and then shocking it in ice water. Set aside.

When ready to serve, sear the scallops in a bit of oil, cooking on

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FOR DISH • 4 cups watermelon, peeled and cut into cubes • 3 cups cucumber, cut into cubes but not peeled FOR SAUCE Heat oven to 350 degrees and toast the hazelnuts until golden brown, about 15 minutes. Let cool completely, then coarsely chop.

You can peel off skins while the hazelnuts are warm.

Chop herbs. Zest and juice limes and lemon. Add all sauce ingredients to bowl and mix together.

FOR DISH Toss watermelon and cucumbers and sauce together, letting it mingle together for at least an hour before serving.

one side until they are browned nicely, about 4 or 5 minutes. Flip the scallop and turn the heat off. Let the remaining heat in the pan cook the scallop gently. They should not be cooked all the way through. Remove the scallops from the pan and set aside as you make the sauce.

In the same pan, add the Campari, sugar and grapefruit juice.

Let the sauce reduce to a glaze, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the grapefruit sections and hazelnuts to the sauce and season with salt to taste.

Heat the broccoli rabe in a bit of olive oil until it is lightly browned and heated through.

Return the scallops to the glaze and coat them gently. Arrange the scallops on a plate. Arrange the broccoli rabe decoratively on the plate, and finish by spooning some of the glaze on and around the scallops.

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FOR PASTA • ½ pound rigatoni pasta • 1 cup heirloom cherry tomatoes, halved • ½ cup zucchini, medium dice • ½ cup squash, medium dice • ½ cup shiitake mushroom, sliced thin • 1 garlic clove, sliced thin • Pinch red chile flakes FOR PESTO • ½ cup hazelnuts, lightly toasted in oven • 2 cups spinach leaves • 1 cup packed basil leaves • 2 cloves garlic • 1 juice of lemon, plus zest • ¾ cup grated parmigiano • 3 tablespoons olive oil • Salt and pepper to taste FOR GARNISH • Parmigiano Reggiano, grated • Basil leaves • Cracked black pepper • Toasted hazelnuts, chopped FOR PASTA Boil pasta in heavily salted water until al dente.

Strain well.

In a large pot, sweat the mushrooms, zucchini, squash and garlic until soft and aromatic. Add chile flakes and season with salt and pepper. Add tomatoes and cook until just softened. Reduce heat to low. Add rigatoni and pesto (however much you prefer). Mix until pasta is well coated in sauce. You may need to add a little water to thin out the sauce if it gets too thick.

FOR PESTO In a food processor, pulse garlic cloves until broken up.

Add hazelnuts and pulse until finely ground. Add spinach, basil and parmigiano. Drizzle in the olive oil while processing until all ingredients are incorporated. Add lemon juice, zest and salt and pepper as needed. If mixture looks a little thick, adjust by adding a tablespoon or two of water until desired consistency is reached.

FOR GARNISH To garnish pasta, finish with freshly cracked black pepper. Grate a generous amount of parmigiano on top.

Sprinkle with some chopped toasted hazelnut for a bit of crunch, and lastly a few young basil leaves.

The Thompson Seattle’s Rigatoni with Hazelnut Pesto and Vegetables.

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home + design

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Photos: Alli Devlin

home + design

The Perfect Fit

Chic remodels create personal sanctuaries out of bathrooms written by Melissa Dalton

North Bend: An Instagrammer teams up to tackle a top-to-bottom remodel ALLI DEVLIN and Jeramey Crawford hadn’t necessarily planned to move from Seattle to a town with a population of just over 7,000. “We’d been longtime city dwellers and we found ourselves always going east, toward the mountain, toward the river, toward the lake, whenever we wanted to escape the city,” Devlin said. When a friend in North Bend, just thirty minutes from Seattle, alerted them that a 1978 split-level on a tree-filled lot on the Snoqualmie River was up for sale, the couple went to take a look. “We saw the house and it needed a complete renovation,” Devlin said, but the lure of overhauling the 1,650-square-foot home into a permanent departure from city life was too strong to resist. “In the end, it was a fairly impulsive decision to just go with something that felt like a retreat to us,” Devlin said.

With only one owner since its ’70s-era construction, the house’s bones were good, although things like orange shag carpeting and mold needed an intervention. The couple were joined by Devlin’s cousin, architectural designer Sarah Merriman of SarMerr Design, and Weaver Construction to modernize the interior, improve the home’s layout and flow, and weave in their personal style, which Devlin described as “contemporary with a Mid-century heart, and a colorful streak.”

For the home’s two bathrooms, each was tailored to a different disposition. Upstairs, the bathroom attached to the principal bedroom is a full-fledged refuge. “I was obviously going for a moody bathroom,” Devlin said, “something that I would love to be in every day and would also look really good with our backdrop of trees and river.” To that end, Devlin and Merriman started with a rich inky accent wall of stacked Fireclay tile. Artful brass sconces and a brass faucet, along with Calacatta Gold marble hex tile floors and cement plaster-finished walls amp up the luxe factor. A customized vanity from North Coast Modern, topped with quartz and a single sink for ample counter space, completes the picture. “It’s the perfect component of warmth to tie everything together,” Merriman said of the walnut vanity.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT The North Bend home’s second bathrooms skews utilitarian, with bright white tile and a bathtub. A walnut custom vanity brings the principal bathroom together. Dark tile and gold accents bring warmth to the room.

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home + design

The downstairs bath skews more utilitarian. “I knew that in doing one bath dark and moody, that I wanted to keep the other one classic, crisp and light in feeling,” Devlin said. The couple needed a bathtub, so Merriman cleverly combined the freestanding tub with the shower, lining the walls with bright white tile and partitioning the area with a clear glass divider. “You can soak in it and not feel like you’re in this enclosed space,” Merriman said of the setup. “If you also want to take a shower, you have that functionality.”

Nearby, a wall-mounted, industrialstyle sink hangs with a floating shelf, oversized circular mirror, and simple sconces. “It’s not the primary bathroom.

It’s used as a secondary bath or a bath for guests, so we didn’t have to have a vanity that had enclosed storage,” Merriman

said. “That allowed more freedom with making design choices that are more fun.”

The white oak shelf continues along the tub, adroitly using a short foundation wall as a ledge for shampoo bottles or Devlin’s stylish displays.

Devlin has documented the entire renovation on her popular Instagram account, The Hoss Homestead. Of the many details to love in the bathrooms, her favorite is, perhaps, not so obvious: a full-height window in the main bath, one of many units that Merriman specified throughout the home to capture views of their sylvan setting. “You take a shower and you’re looking right at the river and the trees, which is why we bought the house, why we renovated, and why we decided to move out here,” Devlin said. “So, I think that window is pretty special.”

It’s a common enough occurrence when buying an older house: scratching our heads at the remodel decisions made by the previous owners. Consider the upstairs bathroom in this 1924 home in Seattle’s Wallingford neighborhood. At some point, the former attic was converted into two bedrooms and a half bath, although the latter didn’t have enough head clearance to comfortably brush one’s teeth. “The ceiling was so low you couldn’t stand quite straight up at the sink,” said designer Cat Schmidt, of the design/build firm Model Remodel. More than likely, the space was the product of a quick installation by a previous homeowner without pulling a permit. “Sometimes people just want to get a bathroom in,” Schmidt said. “It could have been used by kids originally. Who knows?”

First things first, the team at Model Remodel needed to get the room up to code.

To achieve proper ceiling heights, they installed a Velux Solar Powered “Fresh Air” skylight atop a raised curb. At a generous 4x4 feet, the skylight ushers in plentiful natural light and fresh air, and it saved money on the project budget by eschewing the need for a dormer. “Doing the raised curb skylight has become a really common option for us to gain ceiling 30 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

height without a dormer,” Schmidt said.

Solar-powered sensors detect inclement weather, so it will close when necessary.

That means no panic moments if the owners are running errands and the weather abruptly changes. “It will shut on its own if it rains, so you don’t need to even think about it,” Schmidt said.

The new plan borrowed space from an adjacent children’s bedroom to carve out a walk-in shower, expanding the room to 45 square feet. A deft combination of tile shapes and patterns, all in a crisp blackand-white palette, distinguishes the small footprint. There’s an accent wall of “fish scale” tile behind the vanity. A graphic pattern on the floor looks like cement tile but is actually maintenance-friendly porcelain.

Beveled subway tile wraps the shower, where a traditional black flower pattern outlines the floor.

Finishing touches include classic 1920sera porcelain sconces to flank the mirror and an exposed brick chimney that was uncovered in the demolition. “We cleaned it, sealed it, and left it to be enjoyed,” Schmidt said. It was just the right move to let the bathroom fold seamlessly into the old house like it had been there all along, no more puzzling required.

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Cindy Apple

Seattle: An attic bathroom is expanded and richly appointed

home + design

A deft combination of tile shapes and patterns, all in a crisp black-and-white palette, distinguishes the small footprint.

This attic bathroom includes a skylight for more ceiling height.

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Allison Bye

home + design

DIY: Choose Tile Wisely NOWHERE DOES TILE make more of an impact than the bathroom. Use this primer as a starting point to sift through the seemingly unlimited options.

SUBWAY: So named for its 1904 origins in the New York City subway system, where white glass field tile ensconced the first underground stations to calm passengers and brighten the interiors. The most common size is a rectangular 3x6 inches in a “running bond” pattern, a term derived from masonry wherein each tile overlaps the adjoining ones. This tile application took off in homes between 1900-1930, when walls of white tile were deemed more sanitary.

such as in the Seattle bath, will break up the ubiquitous grid. Play with texture using three-dimensional tile shapes and their convex or concave surfaces.

RECTANGLE: These days, the ubiquity of the term “subway tile” seems to refer to rectangular tile of all sizes.

But rectangles are so versatile: go vertical, or stack them horizontally on walls. Square them in a basketweave, try a zig-zagging herringbone design, or do a contemporary chevron installation, wherein the short sides meet in a precise point.

HEXAGON: This six-sided shape looks contemporary in a larger scale, such as in Alli Devlin’s downstairs bathroom, while smaller sizes tip traditional. Mix colors to create a dot or flower pattern, like the shower floor of the Seattle project.

DECORATIVE AND DIMENSIONAL: Colorful “art tiles” emerged in U.S. homes in the 1930s. Evoke a global flair with a detailed Mexican or Moroccan style. Fish scales, 32 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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SQUARES: Walls covered in 4x4 tile took off in the 1940s as a modern, industrial follow-up to subway tile. Squares look great stacked and aligned, either in a monochromatic scheme, or in multiple shades for something unexpected. One-inch mosaics reflect 1950s applications.

PENNY ROUNDS: Like many small-scale mosaics, these petite circles are great for slip-resistance. They’ll veer old-fashioned and recede in a neutral hue, convey a Midcentury vibe in a bright color, or look uber-modern when a bathroom is wrapped in it.

home + design

Classy Pieces Get the look of Alli Devlin’s gorgeous main bathroom

Alli Devlin’s wall of navy blue tile is from Fireclay Tile.

Handmade in California, it has a natural variation to the finish that makes it stand out. “They’re so rich and they’re so deep,” Devlin said of Sarah Merriman’s pick. “I looked at a lot of other tiles of a similar blue color and the Fireclay just won out.” www.fireclaytile.com

Devlin wanted a vanity with one sink and plenty of counter space, rather than two sinks, so she ordered a custom design from North Coast Modern. The finished piece combines grain-matched walnut fronts with Mid-century modern detailing at the base, and is “beautiful and functional,” Merriman said. www.northcoastmodern.com

The floating detail on Rejuvenation’s Rounded Rectangle Yaquina Mirror is what elevates it. Industrialstyle metal brackets, available in four different finishes, let the beveled-edge mirror hover ever so slightly off the wall. In Devlin’s bath, all the better to draw attention to the stunning tile backdrop behind it. www.rejuvenation.com

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mind + body

A Life on the Go Spokane’s Hazen Audel takes us to the ends of the Earth to show us how other cultures live written by Sheila G. Miller

National Geographic

HAZEN AUDEL ISN’T one to slow down, or do something halfway. The TV presenter, wilderness guide and survival instructor spends much of his time in remote areas with indigenous tribes filming his National Geographic TV show, “Primal Survivor.”

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Hazen Audel travels to remote parts of the world to live and work among indigenous people.

mind + body

In the midst of shooting in South America this March, Audel and his TV crew were sent home as the coronavirus began to sweep the world. But just because he didn’t have a show to work on doesn’t mean Audel has been sitting around. Instead, he’s building himself a house south of Spokane.

“I start at 6 in the morning and I work as long as I possibly can,” he said. “Anybody in their right mind would pace themselves.

Sometimes I get a call … and I have to catch my breath, and I realize, ‘Wow, I’ve been breathing hard all day and haven’t slowed down yet.’ But that’s just kind of how I go, without really thinking about it.”

After graduating high school, Audel decided to travel to Ecuador with an eye to visiting the rainforest and learning more about the people, flora and fauna in the area. He ended up staying eight months. That eventually turned into his gig hosting “Primal Survivor” and other adventure-centric shows that feature indigenous communities. Audel was in the midst of shooting the sixth season of “Primal Survivor,” and he also completed another series, called “Ultimate Survival WWII,” which looks at historic wilderness survival experiences from that era.

When he’s shooting, the cameras are on between fourteen and sixteen hours per day over a two-week period. “They picked the right person for this job,” Audel said, noting he often opts to spend more time outside (and not in a hotel with the producers) than is required. “I get to live with these different communities, whether it’s a tribal setting or a family or a community. I don’t want to be with the film crew. I want to be making relationships because they’re teaching me so much.”

Yes, he said, it’s work to get the shots and talk to the camera, but he’s truly getting to do what he loves—spend time in the jungle looking for animals, learning from people he respects.

“I don’t take for granted that I get to go to some of the most amazing places in the world,” he said. “It’s a lifelong dream. I’ve been interested in indigenous and traditional-living people, and, since 1992, I’ve been looking for every opportunity to learn from those people.”

Audel said he’s always been a pretty physical person, and realized early in his travels that he needed to be healthy and capable and

take care of himself in order to build some “street cred” with the indigenous people he was spending time with.

Any gym time he spends is primarily to maintain flexibility or add a bit of mass in the off season. He enjoys snowboarding and skiing, and likes to make sure his fitness is on point for going hard on the mountain. And then, when he’s filming, he’s often doing very physical tasks like digging trenches. “If there’s any gym time it’s mostly just preventive medicine,” he said. “I’ve never been a gym rat. Someone was telling me the other day that my days are like Crossfit. Like Crossfit, but real life.”

Audel eats a high protein diet, and he cultivates a large garden with enough vegetables to feed three families. “As a hobby, I try to be as self-sustainable as possible,” he said.

“This year, I’ve been doing a lot of canning and planting things that I can eat throughout the year.”

He rarely eats packaged foods, but said when he does rarely have a bag of chips, he can’t believe how good they taste. “Fortunately I just don’t really get the desire to eat that sort of stuff,” he said. “I don’t have that craving.”

His one dietary vice, he said, is his habit of drinking a couple cans of Pepsi each day.

“I think it’s just that my body needs quickburning sugar because I run out of it during the day,” he said. “There are probably healthier alternatives. I could make some high-protein, ultra-incredible smoothie, but I don’t have the access or the time. I’m not the poster child of nutrition but fortunately, my lifestyle enables me. If I feel like finishing off the carton of ice cream, I can.”

It’s probably a good thing Audel isn’t too finicky about his diet, because when he’s filming he often eats whatever villagers offer him: sometimes that means insects, other times it’s a mixture of blood and milk, or a butter-filled horse stomach.

And while those foods may not sound appealing, Audel is itching to return to the remote places he’s fallen in love with and to get back to his punishing work pace.

“It’s hard work. It’s a really hard lifestyle, but I wouldn’t want to do it any other way,” he said. “I think I just keep going and going until I can’t go anymore. I don’t think about pacing myself.”

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2020

Hazen Audel Educator, TV Presenter Age: 46 Born: Spokane Residence: Spokane

WORKOUT Audel prefers the hard labor of his regular lifestyle to time in a gym, whether that means building his own home or digging ditches in a foreign country. He also enjoys skiing and snowboarding.

NUTRITION Audel follows a high-protein diet and eats lots of vegetables that he grows himself.

He doesn’t eat much junk food, but doesn’t limit himself if he feels like a treat.

INSPIRATION “I don’t take for granted that I get to go to some of the most amazing places in the world, and it’s my lifelong dream. I’ve been interested in indigenous and traditional-living people and before this show, since 1992, I’ve been looking for every opportunity to learn from those people.”

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artist in residence

Brad Rude creates bronze sculpture from his rural Walla Walla home.

Sculpting Smiles

Walla Walla’s Brad Rude has made a life of bronze sculpture written by Sheila G. Miller

IF YOU VISIT the Woodland Park Zoo, you may encounter a bronze sculpture of a scale, one side weighted with a toad, an owl, a seashell and other objects. In downtown Walla Walla, a bronze dog balances items on his nose.

At Doernbecher Children’s Hospital in Portland, Oregon, a bronze goat stands on a rock while other animals peer down from his head.

It’s all the work of Walla Walla sculptor Brad Rude, who for decades has been making people stop, think and likely smile with his artwork.

Rude lives tucked away in the Blue Mountains, about 8 miles from the edge of Walla Walla. He’s lived in the area since he was 10 years old, and it’s where he learned his craft.

In high school, he developed an interest in pottery and set up a wheel and studio in his family’s basement, first selling pots at the Walla Walla Balloon Stampede after graduating. Around the same time, he learned that the Walla Walla Foundry had just 36

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opened and needed a new employee. After a summer of working the wheat harvest, he went to work at the foundry. For the next twelve years, with the exception of yearlong stints at both Central Washington University in Ellensburg and the Maryland Institute College of Art, he worked there.

Today, the Walla Walla Foundry is the largest foundry in the country focused on fine arts.

“The owner who founded the Walla Walla Foundry specifically wanted to cater to the types of artists you would typically see if you go to, say, the Seattle Art Museum or the Museum of

artist in residence

Modern Art,” Rude said. “It’s a different type of art. A lot of times it’s more abstracted, or large scale. A lot of the artists who have come through that facility do public work. It was an eye opener for me.”

While there, he learned nearly every aspect of the work. “It was a really unique place with the caliber of professional artists who were casting there,” he said. “It was a perfect opportunity to learn how to make sculpture.”

One of the areas he specialized in was patinas—that is, the green or brown tint on the surface of bronze caused by oxidation. He worked directly with the artists, picking their brains over lunch and delivering and installing the finished products.

“Basically, I learned to make sculpture, patina sculpture, assemble sculpture, install sculpture,” he said. “I learned the whole gamut.”

In the early 1990s, he left the foundry to become a full-time artist. He continued to use the facility, though, cutting costs by doing nearly all the work himself. Rude acquired representation at the Foster/White Gallery in Seattle, and his first bronze sculpture was a life-size cow with a coyote on his back. The sculpture became a mainstay on the Seattle street because it was too heavy to make it up to the second-story gallery. Today it resides in Kirkland, where community members decorate it for holidays.

He takes inspiration from the landscape, including just his own backyard, where he’s seen bear, elk and deer over the years.

Rude does private commissions as well as “Whenever Possible” shows Rude’s propensity for stacking animals. public pieces. His most recent public piece, at Olympic Hills Elementary in Seattle, features a rabbit, otter and coyote, perched on rocks and engaged in a conversation. It was his seventh commission he can re-use past forms like rocks or apples and cut down on through the Washington State Arts Commission. He’s currently some of that work. working on two private pieces—one, a life-size bear for a Walla “Then you can be spontaneous in the composition,” he said.

Walla winery; the other, a life-size dog for a Salem-based surgery “When you use multiple forms and different forms, not worrying center. His works usually take between six months and eighteen about scale—an apple in the antlers of the elk, the elk standing months to produce. up on stilts, then a completely different kind of story evolves.”

“Sometimes you need some time to let it rest and then go back Rude often paints his sculptures as well—details, pictures or and look at it, so you don’t necessarily work on it every day,” Rude words that add meaning. said. “I’ll fiddle with the eye, and then I’ll come back in a couple The whimsical results are on display all over Washington and days and before I finalize the eye I’ve done it fifty times.” beyond. His public pieces grace the likes of college campuses, He documents every bit of the work he does on each sculpture. children’s hospitals and kids’ schools.

“It would make a great book, one of those flip books,” he said.

“A story evolves the minute I start putting a sculpture togethSculpture is physical work, from creating the armature (a er,” Rude said. “If I put too many elements on then it gets a little framework around which a sculpture is built) to the pouring and overwhelming. It’s usually something that goes, ‘That’s cool. That eventual assembly. Rude has kept all his molds over the years, so works compositionally from an artistic perspective.’”

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STARTUP 40 WHAT’S GOING UP 42 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 44 MY WORKSPACE 46 GAME CHANGER 48

pg. 44 Students at Washington State University can now earn a bachelor’s degree in viticulture and enology.

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startup

Breaking Coffee

Atomo Molecular Coffee is working to change the coffee industry for the better—by removing the bean written by Sheila G. Miller

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startup

IT ALL STARTED, ironically, over a cup of coffee.

Lifelong family friends Jarret Stopforth and Andy Kleitsch grabbed a cup of coffee back in 2018—Stopforth is a food scientist and microbiologist, while Kleitsch is a tried-and-true entrepreneur—to bat around ideas for a new startup.

“One of the things that I love to do is consider new ways of breaking things down and building them up to understand how they work, and to disrupt established markets,” Stopforth said.

When Stopforth mentioned his research into “reinventing coffee without the coffee bean,” Kleitsch was blown away. Atomo Molecular Coffee was born.

Kleitsch wanted whatever his next startup project was to be better for the environment, and better for mankind, they said. Both men researched the coffee industry and learned more about coffee’s environmental problems—it can cause severe deforestation, particularly in rainforests, uses lots of water, and has a big carbon footprint, in part because of the process of getting the coffee to places where the coffee bean doesn’t grow.

While millions of Americans drink coffee daily, Kleitsch said one of the biggest surprises he discovered during research was that many people don’t really like coffee—68 percent add cream and sugar to it in an attempt to mask its bitter flavor. That, plus his concerns about the sustainability of the coffee crop, were his aha moments. “It led us to say, ‘We really should do something about the coffee industry as a whole,” he said.

So inspired, Stopforth and Kleitsch took to the scientist’s garage, a sort of food science lab, and started trying to hack the coffee bean. It was a lot of work—the first attempts to simply find a substitute weren’t effective. Turns out, he had to reverse engineer all the reactions happening inside the bean to make it work. After much trial and error, the duo settled on a plan involving “upcycled” plant materials, and used molecular food science to create the reactions, making a product that mimics what happens when coffee beans are roasted, ground and turned into that cup of joe.

“This is coffee, it’s just not from a bean,” Stopforth said. “The way we get into that coffee experience, the taste and aroma and caffeine … we’ve gone and looked at upcycled products, that is, waste streams from other agricultural industries—pits and seeds and roots and stems. We’ve found sustainable sources that provide the same experience.”

Atomo takes these upcycled resources, then reacts them, roasts them and extracts the coffee from them.

The result, Stopforth said, is coffee. The company adds caffeine, but otherwise the drink has the same flavor, aroma and color as traditional coffee.

Eventually, the Atomo team set up a challenge at the University of Washington—they had students test

ABOVE Jarret Stopforth, left, and Andy Kleitsch started Atomo in an effort to improve the coffee industry’s environmental footprint. AT LEFT Atomo will release a cold brew in 2021.

their coffee and Starbucks in a blind taste test. Atomo won, Stopforth said, with 70 percent of tasters picking Atomo. Armed with this encouragement, the duo set up a Kickstarter. Then Horizon Ventures, which has invested in Impossible Foods (plant-based meat) and Perfect Day (dairy without the cows), provided $2.6 million in seed funding. Since then, other venture firms have tagged on $9 million.

Stopforth and Kleitsch expected resistance to their product, but said they’ve been surprised to see mostly positive reactions. “We have received so much love from people who care about the environment and care about sustainability,” Kleitsch said. “What also surprised us was the large corporations that have approached us. A lot of these big companies have taken up carbon neutral initiatives, and they’re looking at how they can cut or improve their carbon footprint.

Coffee is one of the largest offenders when it comes to the carbon footprint.”

Kleitsch said Atomo has also received a warm response from the coffee industry.

“Almost every major brand has contacted us and asked to try our coffee,” he said. “Consumers as a whole are now very supportive of sustainable brands, and so we think that large coffee companies are aware of that and want to supply a more sustainable option to consumers.”

Atomo plans to begin releasing its products in 2021.

Its first product will be a traditional cold brew, though eventually the company intends to have grounds, whole beans, even pods for purchase. The company is considering partnering with established brands to allow Atomo coffee to be sold in a variety of ways.

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what’s going up?

Seattle, Transformed New projects continue to change Seattle’s landscape in innovative ways written by Mike Galvin SEATTLE’S SKYLINE continues to grow taller, and more towers and campuses are on the way, thanks in part to Seattle real estate development firm Urban Visions.

The firm, which completed buildings such as The Jack in Pioneer Square and Millennium Tower on Second Avenue in downtown Seattle, has two major projects—a high rise and a campus—slated to be completed in 2023.

The Net, a planned thirty-six-story building with more than 800,000 square feet of office space on Third Avenue in the city’s central business district, is expected to feature smart technology throughout, as well as the Stepped Sky Lounge, a multi-tiered outdoor garden on the top of the building.

S, also slated for a 2023 completion, is different but equally innovative. The 6-acre campus (described by the firm as the city’s last campus opportunity) will have five buildings with more than 1.2 million square feet of office space, as well as 45,000 square feet of retail space. The campus is designed to connect multiple areas—the International District, Pioneer Square, the Stadium District and the waterfront—and has access to transit and space for more than 600 parking stalls.

FROM TOP The Net’s Stepped Sky Lounge is slated to be an outdoor garden area at the top of the building. Office space and common areas in S will be light and airy.

Renderings: Urban Vision

S is designed as a 6-acre campus with five buildings.

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what i’m working on Dr. Thomas Henick-Kling works with students in the viticulture and enology program.

Wine Time

WSU expands wine industry connection with viticulture and enology bachelor degree interview by Sheila G. Miller

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what i’m working on

IF YOU NEED PROOF of the important role the wine industry plays in Washington, look no further than Washington State University.

This year, students at WSU will be able to earn a bachelor’s degree in viticulture and enology. Though the viticulture and enology program has been in place since 2004, students previously earned a degree in integrated plant sciences. The change will allow for a greater specialization in wine sciences, and an even stronger connection to Washington’s wine industry.

We spoke with program director Dr. Thomas Henick-Kling about the development of the program, and how students are getting hands-on experience in the field.

The program has existed for awhile.

How will having a dedicated degree in the subject make a difference?

Now we have permission to establish our own major, and it’s called Viticulture & Enology, not Integrated Plant Sciences, which was important to students, too—they’d like the certificate to say that. We’re able to remove some of the courses which don’t really help our students and add into this major more specialization courses.

What will those specialized courses look like?

We are adding an introductory course for second-year students, which is a bit more in-depth, to learn about the wine industry and wine history and wine and culture. And for the more advanced students, there will be additional lab sessions—we’re developing a sensory course, and we have our own capstone course that lets the students put it all together.

This may sound silly, but how do you design an undergrad degree around something that students won’t be able to drink legally until they’re juniors or seniors?

We got a law passed about four or five years ago so that students 18 years old and older can taste in those courses we teach. That was important—we needed to get that

law changed here. It’s working fine, although right now it’s got its own little problem because they can’t come to campus, so we’re figuring out how we can do tastings. If I can get samples to them, we can do Zoom video tastings.

How will the degree give the students more hands-on experiences?

We made it so that all students will finish the last two years on the Tri-Cities campus, and that’s so all the students will have the fantastic opportunity to work in vineyards and wineries in the Tri-Cities and all around it. The students based in the Tri-Cities all have jobs or internships in a vineyard or winery.

In our blended learning course in spring semester, students get together and we ask them, ‘What wines do you want to make?’ Then we pick a number of projects from that discussion and line them up with partner vineyards and wineries.

We look for the kind of grapes we need for the particular wine and we look for a partner winery. We hear from various groups how things are progressing and how things are done in the wineries, and then we evaluate the wines as they evolve, decide what needs to be done with them. And then we bottle the best wines, and we sell them. The students are involved in that whole process.

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my workspace

There’s magic hiding in an unassuming storefront in Walla Walla, tucked in a residential area in the College Place neighborhood. Enter Cugini Italian Imports & Deli—and be transported. Housemade salami with fennel, washrind cheeses, spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna, tapenade—the authentic flavors may just satisfy your wanderlust for now.

Cugini’s started as a cheese and meat shop run by cousins Don Maiuri and Victor Toppano (hence the name Cugini, which means cousins in Italian). The pair cured their own meats and imported foods from Italy, according to owner Michelle Martuscelli Kjeldgaard. “It is located right on the edge of all the Italian neighborhoods, and resides there now,” she said. “It is a common neighborhood and totally out of the area of other businesses.

People enjoy the trek and find it very curious as to why we are there … that’s why.”

My Workspace

An Eye for Italian Walla Walla’s Italian roots are on full display at Cugini Italian Imports & Deli written by Colleen Craine

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Kjeldgaard took over the shop in 2014, adding tables and chairs as well as a menu with more than 100 cheeses, housemade charcuterie and more than thirty imported and domestic meats. She has a deeper connection to the men who ran the shop before her, however. “It was Don Maiuri’s grandpa who sent for my grandpa, Dominic Martuscelli, in Italy in 1921 to come work for the Maiuri family farm,” she said. “My grandpa, Dominic, saved his money, bought and farmed his own land, and made wine for the Italian neighborhood. Customers and family still tell stories about him and his wine cellar.”

The large Italian community in Walla Walla started some of the first vineyards, orchards and farmed Walla Walla sweet onions.

my workspace

Kjeldgaard has a few favorite importers, but is always looking for new products and striving for authenticity.

She takes online classes to increase her knowledge, travels to Italy to find new products and gets to taste lots of cheeses and other foods. Kjeldgaard and Cugini’s have taken three group trips on food tours through Italy, spreading her love of the place to her customers. And when she’s at home in Walla Walla, she has a library of books that help her come up with recipes and pairings. The result? “We have been told we have the best Italian food in town and the Pacific Northwest by lots of people,” she said.

Like other small businesses, the coronavirus has challenged Cugini’s, and not just because of the canceled parties and wine events and wedding receptions. The deli has no indoor seating, some shipments have not arrived or prices have increased exponentially. “I am Italian first and foremost—I love what I do, I love people, I love feeding people,” Kjeldgaard said. “The masks, sunglasses, no contact, it’s very hard for me. … However, I hold out for hope! We will rise above it and enjoy the great company, as before.”

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game changer

Miles Bergsma

GoToTags technology allows businesses to connect with consumers, from virtual ordering to learning more about a product.

Gamechanger

Tag Technology

GoToTags help companies connect to their consumers like never before written by Sheila G. Miller IMAGINE YOU’RE shopping for a bottle of wine and instead of choosing the one with the dancing bear on the label, you pull out your phone and with a tap, learn everything from the provenance of the grapes to how long the bottle’s been sitting on the shelf.

No need to imagine—that technology is available and GoToTags, a Spokane company, is ready to change how consumers interact with the things around them.

“Any consumer product or good, where people care about its origin or its proper use or proper disposal, this technology will be appropriate,” said Keith Kegley, a GoToTags board member. “Any place where people want to be able to have digital behaviors associated with objects, this is a more robust way to do it.”

CEO and founder Craig Tadlock approached Kegley in 2012 with the idea to take the developing technology and develop a business around it.

“He had this awareness that new technology had been created that were these tags that could be interacted with by phones, and the key idea was that physical objects start to have digital behaviors,” Kegley said. “When you interact with something today, you’ve got a tactile touch of it. But imagine a world where there would be digital behavior?”

It wasn’t a quick process, but companies are starting to catch on—GoToTags has served more than 10,000 customers in a number of ways, but GoToTags expects business to increase significantly because, last October, Apple finally allowed its phones to connect with the tags.

“The general idea makes a lot of sense,” Kegley said. “There’s no reason anything that you interact with in the physical world can’t just give you digital information.”

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The technology is the same as that which allows customers to make contactless payments by waving their phones over a credit card reader. With GoToTags, the same reader in the back of the phone looks for the small tag, and when your phone is close to it, it establishes a communication link that allows you to access whatever information the company has placed on the tag.

Depending on the product, the tag can connect a user with any number of options—a user manual, for example, or information on the provenance of the product. Touch your phone to a tag next to a painting at a foreign museum, and your phone could tell you more information about it, in your language. The information available to consumers can be changed by the company, as necessary. And the price to add the tags to a product range from a few cents to a dollar per tag, depending on how durable the tag needs to be. The technology’s cost, Kegley said, continues to drop.

As restaurants adapt to reopening amid COVID-19, for example, many restaurants have approached GoToTags about adding tags at the table that allow customers to look at the menu and order from their phones.

What makes GoToTags’ technology unique is it isn’t a QR code on paper that will get damaged over time—it can be embedded into the product, as small as a grain of rice or the size of a postage stamp, and last until the life of the product is over. Other companies may affix them to a product’s packaging, but behind a label or in a way that doesn’t disrupt the branding.

The company’s technology was recently used in Nintendo’s Animal Crossing game. It’s also being developed for use with an app that will allow users to share their contact information with the tap of a phone. Salvation Army bell ringers debuted the technology during the holidays last year so people don’t have to hang onto their loose change, but can quickly give a donation from their phones.

Chief Operating Officer and Chief Financial Officer Jon Garrison said the uses are endless, and soon the technology will be just another tool at our disposal.

“We have the readers in our hands,” he said. “We have this magic wand, and now it’s about companies catching up and saying, ‘How do we interact with this magic in the world to engage with our consumers?’”

BOUNTY

HUNTERS HOW TO EAT (AND DRINK) YOUR WAY THROUGH WASHINGTON written by Sheila G. Miller

ALL YEAR LONG, Washington’s farms, restaurants, breweries, distilleries and others work hard to bring their bounty to locals, visitors and those who can’t see the glory of this state for themselves.

No matter the time of year, there are ways to eat—and drink—your way through Washington. Maybe cheese is your choice. Perhaps beer makes you blush. It’s all here.

Here, some suggestions for how to find the bounty and libations that will make you even more proud to live in Washington. Of course, COVID-19 has changed a lot around visiting these places. Be sure to call ahead to check whether locations are open, and follow protocols like wearing a mask. Many places are open but have limited capacities. Be patient and support our local business owners.

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Sawyer

Sawyer makes farm-fresh meals in Seattle.

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HEAD FOR THE

HILLS

Photos: Yakima Valley Tourism

Sometimes it’s just best to go to the source, and no one knows this better than those who have hit the farm stands—and the accompanying orchards and farms—throughout the state.

An easy way to connect with these farms is by making a little fruit loop through the Yakima Valley. All that summer sun makes for a bounty of peaches, apples, pears and more, and at certain times of year, it can all be yours. Just make sure to have an empty trunk, because you’re going to fill it.

Barrett Orchards, opened in 2004, operates the Washington Fruit Place, which has different offerings depending on the season. Think donut peaches and pluots, Walla Walla sweet onions and all kinds of apples, plus all the spreads and other treats you can conjure. The farm shop also sells home decor and Chukar Cherries.

The Precision Fruit stand is a famous site in Yakima. The giant sign highlighting the antiques and fruit for sale is the first sign of something great.

Here you’ll find, yes, seasonal fresh fruit, as well as antiques.

You’ll also find Yakima Valley wine, jams and pickles, among other things.

Other farms in the region, like Krueger Pepper Gardens, Bill’s Berry Farm and Imperial’s Garden, offer U-pick during harvest season. Johnson Orchards sells fresh pies made from its fruit, which means you don’t even have to do the hard work of picking, chopping and baking.

ABOVE, FROM LEFT Picking pumpkins is just the start of the bounty in Washington.

Imperial’s Garden has a wide variety of produce to pick from.

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Outstanding in the Field

U-pick options abound in the Yakima Valley.

Outstanding in the Field organizes farm dinners all over the world, including Washington.

HIT THE

Yakima Valley Tourism

TROUGH If you’re the kind of person who likes local Washington bounty but haven’t yet mastered the art of turning it into a spectacular meal, leave the meals to the professionals.

Many farms and other organizations offer dinners and events throughout the year (or at least, during normal years when a pandemic hasn’t forced us into social distancing and away from crowds).

Make sure to check with the farms to see what the protocol is, and whether dinners are happening or have been delayed or canceled.

At Red Rabbit Farm on Orcas Island, farm-to-table dinners traditionally take place every Sunday. The dinners, run by chef Christina Orchid,

were featured in Fodor’s Travel as one of the world’s most unique dining experiences. Meals are served family style, and private dinners are still an option.

Heyday Farm House on Bainbridge Island hosts community dinners, as well as other pop-up chef and wine dinners, throughout the year.

The community dinners started back up in July, and feature fresh ingredients—many grown at the family-owned, 25-acre historic farm.

Or go truly in-depth with a three-day, immersive education project at Farmstead Meatsmith in Vashon. The Family Pig is a workshop that teaches you to slaughter, butcher and cure pork.

It’s an investment, but if you truly want to learn the ins and outs of raising and harvesting animals, this is your spot.

You’ll learn to slaughter pigs on Thursday, then butcher and OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2020

cure on Friday, with sausagemaking and charcuterie on Saturday. Each afternoon, guests indulge in a meal made from their hard work, and take home 3 pounds of their handmade sausage.

While not a local company, Outstanding in the Field is an Instagram-ready event planning group that brings an incredibly long table full of farm-fresh delights to picturesque farms and ranches. It was founded in 1999, and now hosts dinners at farms in all fifty states and many countries around the world, connecting diners with the chefs and others who make the food a reality. Typically, the company hosts Washington events in the summer and fall—2021’s planned locations include Oxbow Farm & Conservation Center in Carnation, Flint Beach Ohana Farm on Lopez Island and Monteillet Fromagerie in Walla Walla.

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Scott Heimendinger

HEAD OF THE

TABLE Restaurants throughout Washington are always on best-of lists, receiving accolades from the James Beard Foundation and others.

If your idea of scooping up the best that Washington has to offer is hopping from restaurant to restaurant, make a weekend out of it in Seattle.

There are, of course, other hotspots—Orcas Island and Spokane, among others, have plenty of forward-thinking chefs who could fill your weekend with bites of bliss.

But Seattle offers the best bang for your buck in terms of square mileage.

For an ultimate James Beard-approved foodie weekend, start in the Fremont 54

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area. Well, technically you’ll start on the Queen Anne side of the bridge, at Canlis. The restaurant’s chef, Brady Williams, was named Best Chef Northwest by the foundation in 2019, and was up for best service award in 2020.

In March, the longstanding fine-dining establishment shut its dining room to help the city weather the COVID-19 storm. That doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy Canlis’ excellent food—it just looks different right now, with family meals delivered to your door and an outdoor crab shack featuring, literally, buckets of crab ready for you to dig into.

Then you’ll swing up to Fremont, where you can enjoy the Asian fusion of your dreams at Joule—think short rib steak and spicy rice cakes—and the tiny Kamonegi’s hand-pulled soba noodles that will fill your stomach and your memories.

On day two, rev up your appetite with a morning OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2020

stroll (or marathon, because remember, you’re eating your way through some of Seattle’s finest restaurants). Today you’ll spread your wings a bit more. Start in Ballard at Sawyer, one of those gorgeous, bright locations that lead you to believe the food will be an afterthought. It’s not, though. The converted 1920s sawmill interior does nothing to diminish the excellent food served here— family-style delights like pork belly steam buns and squash blossom pupusas, or a breakfast banh mi and cinnamon roll monkey bread for brunch.

Up the street is the Rupee Bar, another ode to restaurant design, with Sri Lankan and Indian-inspired fare that will fill you up.

Still hungry? Head to Il Nido at Alki Beach. This log cabin spot features handmade pasta. No need for further explanation, but if you require it, cheese-filled raviolis and charcoal-activated spaghetti are just the start.

Yakima Valley Tourism

Below: Jeremy Beasley

Canlis converted its dining offerings to a crab shack (pictured at left) and a Canlis at Home program (above).

IF YOUR IDEA OF SCOOPING UP THE BEST THAT WASHINGTON HAS TO OFFER IS HOPPING FROM RESTAURANT TO RESTAURANT, MAKE A WEEKEND OUT OF IT IN SEATTLE.

Greg Lehman

HAVE A

DRINK It’s not fair to leave all the fun to the food. Washington is well-known for its beer and wine too, and for good reason.

Is it beer you seek? Washington’s breweries have won awards both national and local, with winners from Olympia (Headless Mumby Brewing’s top lagers) to Spokane (TT’s Old Iron Brewery makes a Scotch ale that will blow your hair back) to Bellingham (Kulshan Brewing Company keeps on winning). You’ll have to decide what you want, or you can pick a region and start your own tour.

In Seattle’s Ballard neighborhood, there are so many breweries you can work on

your Ballard Brewery Passport. The brewery district features eleven stops in just a 1-mile radius, including the excellent Reuben’s Brews. Earn a glass for visiting all the pubs, or belly up to one for a range of flavors—the Jolly Roger Taproom at Maritime Brewing is the perfect dark spot to spend a day practicing up on your pirate flair.

Spokane created an ale trail map designed to help beer lovers find all their favorites. It has thirty-five stops, ranging from Pastime Brewery in Oroville—3 hours northwest of Spokane—to Paradise Creek Brewing Company in Pullman, more than an hour south.

Pick them off one at a time, or focus on a few.

When it comes to wine, you’ve got a lot to choose from. The state has fourteen recognized American

FROM ABOVE Visit vineyards by horse at Cherry Wood Bed Breakfast & Barn. A Tesla will ferry you to wine in Walla Walla.

Viticultural Areas, and five more seeking approval. Because there’s no shortage of delicious wine to taste, sometimes it’s about the experience.

Chelan Electric Bikes offers a guided wine tour—throw on your helmet and zoom through vines for four hours, stopping at a secret beach and three wineries.

Or try Cherry Wood Bed Breakfast & Barn’s wine tours by horseback or hay wagon— picnic lunches, cheese and OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2020

fruit samples, and stops at up to four of the Yakima Valley’s best wineries make a perfect day.

In Walla Walla, you can be ferried from winery to winery in a Tesla. In Woodinville, the tasting rooms are so close together you can walk door to door, almost like Halloween for grownups. Truly, the list goes on. But however you choose to get there, you’ll be trying some of the best wine in the world.

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Sunshine for all Seasons!

Photo: Kay Gerdes

Bike Hike Glide Breathe - Please Recreate Responsibly 1-800-737-8462 visitsunnysequim.com

The PNW Holiday

written by 1889 Washington’s Magazine staff photography by Toby Nolan WE’VE LEARNED A LOT about ourselves in 2020—what we need to comfortably subsist during a quarantine, and what we can do without. So in this year’s holiday gift guide, you won’t find much in the way of fancy purses or high heels, men’s shaving kits or bow ties. It’s not that those things aren’t lovely. They are.

But what we’ve come to recognize about life in 2020 is that the best gift is togetherness—whether that’s over cocktails, in the kitchen, or out in the elements.

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1 Allsop Home & Garden Solar Tea Lanterns www.allsopgarden.com $29.99 each

3 Allsop Home & Garden Gem Light Solar Lantern www.allsopgarden.com $35.99

5 Throwboy 1984 Pocket Pillow www.throwboy.com $14.99

2 Sackcloth & Ashes Camp Coast blanket www.sackcloth andashes.com $109

4 Oregon Lottery and Washington’s Lottery scratch-off tickets www.oregonlottery.org www.walottery.com prices vary

6 Wildehaus Big Squat 10” Plant Stand www.wildehauspdx.com $52

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1 Favor Jewelry Top Knot Crown Hair Pin www.favorjewelry.com $44 2 Material + Movement earrings www.materialand movement.com $124 3 Clean Wit Industries Minted Rose and Lavender + Lemongrass soaps www.cleanwit industries.com $8 each 4 Material + Movement necklace www.materialand movement.com $254

5 Wooly Beast Winter Wonderland candle www.woolybeast designs.com $14.99 6 Wooly Beast Bearded Man soap www.woolybeast designs.com $7.99

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7 Favor Jewelry Brass Crescent Hair Pin www.favorjewelry.com $34 8 Favor Jewelry Fragment Stacking Rings www.favorjewelry.com $34 each

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1 Felton & Mary’s Artisan Foods BBQ Prayer Box www.feltonandmary.com $38.99 2 Marshall’s Haute Sauce Hot Sauce Sampler www.marshallshaute sauce.com $35 3 Rogue Creamery Oregon Blue www.roguecreamery.com $17

4 Rogue Creamery Mount Mazama Cheddar www.roguecreamery.com $12 5 Jacobsen Salt Co. Raw Honey Sticks www.jacobsensalt.com $5 for 10-pack 6 Durant at Red Ridge Farms Culinary Lavender www.redridgefarms.com $10

7 Durant at Red Ridge Farms Cyprus Black Lava Sea Salt www.redridgefarms.com $15

10 Salt Blade Seattle Stick, Tuscan Salami, Porcini & Sage salamis www.saltblade.com $15 each

8 HEW Woodworking Salt Cellar www.hewwood working.com $110

11 Durant at Red Ridge Farms rosemary fused olive oil www.redridgefarms.com $24

9 MADRE Legume linen napkins www.madrelinen.com $42+

12 Durant at Red Ridge Farms Apero Vinegar Trio Pack www.redridgefarms.com $25

15 Oomph No. 3 Sofrito and No. 6 Shiitake Umami cooking blends www.oomphcooking.com $13.99 each

13 Alchemist’s Jam Marionberry fruit spread www.alchemistsjam.com $10 14 Ground Up Oregon Hazelnut butter www.grounduppdx.com $16

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1 The Bitter Housewife Classic Bitters Kit www.thebitterhousewife.com $30

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8 Freeland Spirits Gin www.freelandspirits.com $35.95

1 2 2 Skunk Brothers Spirits Smoke Jumper Bourbon www.skunkbrothersspirits.com $39.95

7 Headwind Vodka www.headwindvodka.com $21.95

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4 4 Mary’s Mixers Bloody Mary Mix www.marysmixers.com $12.99

5 Freeland Spirits Dry Gin www.freelandspirits.com $35.95

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5 Wildwood Salted Brown Butter Texas Pecan Brittle chocolate bar www.wildwood chocolate.com $12.75

2 One Stripe Chai Original Chai Concentrate www.onestripechai.com $16

6 HEW Woodworking Creamer www.hewwood working.com $120

3 MADRE Tomato linen napkins www.madrelinen.com $42+ 4 Wildwood Berry Berry chocolate bar www.wildwood chocolate.com $13.95

7 The Oregon Farm Table Cookbook

by Karista Bennett www.powells.com $24.95

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10 Salish Lodge & Spa Huckleberry Syrup www.salishlodge.com $9.95

11 Salish Lodge & Spa Buttermilk Pancake Mix www.salishlodge.com $9.95

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7 Dovetail Workwear Multipurpose Work Gloves www.dovetail workwear.com $25 8 Dovetail Workwear Freshley Overall www.dovetail workwear.com $129

4 Danner Logger 917 www.danner.com $230

9 Dovetail Workwear Givens Workshirt www.dovetail workwear.com $69

5 Grayl GEOPRESS Purifier www.grayl.com $89.95

10 Puffin Coolers Beverage Jacket www.puffincoolers.com $15.95

6 Hydro Flask 15L Soft Cooler Pack www.hydroflask.com $174.95

11 Puffin Coolers Beverage Sleeping Bag www.puffincoolers.com $12.95

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A Peach of a Day Trip photography by Young Kwak

IF YOU’RE LOOKING for a juicy peach or a crisp apple to sweeten the pain of 2020, look to the farm-fresh treats from the Green Bluff area outside of Spokane. Here, farms welcome visitors to pick fruit and enjoy the bounty of Washington.

A red globe peach at Walters’ Fruit Ranch in the Green Bluff area near Spokane.

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Farmhand Paul Turbyfill drives customers from a peach orchard to the store at Walters’ Fruit Ranch. Gene Quhn, left, holds a Brenna A Stewardship Red, and his wife, Ivy, holds a glass of Townshend Red Table Wine at Big Barn Brewing Company. Alicia Schilling, left, speaks with Nate Bass at Big Barn Brewing. Rows of hops at Big Barn Brewing. Bartender Steph Lilly pours an Apricot Wit at Big Barn Brewing.

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Leslie Sanchez, second from right, picks a red globe peach as her husband, Edgar, left; 5-year-old son, Teddy, second from the left; and 7-year-old daughter, Emmy, look on at Walters’ Fruit Ranch. Orchard foreman Andreas Sinclair instructs customers on the correct way to pick peaches from trees at Walters’ Fruit Ranch. Customers walk through the maze at Walters’ Fruit Ranch. Treacy Harris looks for peaches for her granddaughter to pick at Walters’ Fruit Ranch.

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AT LEFT Bobbi Ward, left, places a peach in a box held by 4-year-old daughter Maxine at Walters’ Fruit Ranch. BELOW A McCormick-Deering tractor sits in a field at Big Barn Brewing Company.

TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 76 ADVENTURE 78 LODGING 86 TRIP PLANNER 88

pg. 86 A camp setting adds to The Society Hotel Bingen’s charm.

Alex Hoxie

NORTHWEST DESTINATION 92

travel spotlight

On the Farm Get in touch with your agricultural roots at Bellewood Farms

Pick apples at Bellewood Farms through October.

written by Matthew Milner GET IN TOUCH with Washington’s farmstead roots at Bellewood Farms—and grab some farm goodies to take home.

Bellewood Farms, in Lynden, combines the charm of an old-fashioned farmstead with the timeless joy of a distillery and farm store.

The farm has the largest apple and pear orchard in Western Washington, and it turns the fruit into something particularly delicious—distilled spirits.

Swing through the distillery’s tasting room for a taste of vodka, gin and liqueurs, then grab a couple bottles of its Bubbly sparking cider (there’s the hard stuff, too). Through the end of October, the farm’s U-Pick program runs Wednesday through Sunday every week, with apples running $2.50 per pound.

If strolling the orchards isn’t your thing, you can play cornhole on site or just sit and take in the views of Mount Baker, letting your kids loose in the tire garden.

The market sells local wine and cider, as well as cheese and other farm products from around the Pacific Northwest. Plus, there’s a cafe and bakery on site in case your wanderings leave you in need of a meal—or take a few baked goods to go.

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Get Some Space.

Clear Your Mind.

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SPECIAL SECTION

Shred safely at Oregon’s Mt. Bachelor. (photo: Anelise Bergin/Mt. Bachelor)

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Plus: Scan the QR codes in this section for more information from our advertisers

SKIING DURING A PANDEMIC WHAT TO EXPECT AT SKI AREAS THIS ANOMALOUS SEASON

BY MARCH OF 2020, the winter ski season was already in play. Though a long eight months separated the onset of the pandemic in the United States and the opening of ski areas in the Pacific Northwest, two things came into focus: this virus wasn’t going away soon and ski areas would have to make significant changes if they wanted to safely open to guests for this anomalous 2020-21 ski season. Also, in a perverse way, this could be the best year on record for ski area season passholders.

Being on a mountain, in the open air, is one of the safest places to be during these times. Skiing and

written by Kevin Max

snowboarding are essentially individual pursuits of recreation in the great outdoors and a psychological savior through the duration of winter.

“As ski season approaches, resorts are incorporating virus prevention into their winter operating plans, again turning to science and also learning from summer operations in the U.S. and from our peers in the southern hemisphere,” Kelly Pawlak, president and CEO of National Ski Areas Association, said in this year’s annual report.

So what’s different this season? What changes should winter warriors expect during the pandemic?

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SPECIAL SECTION

SEASON PASSHOLDERS RULE The first change is how ski passes are being sold and marketed this year. Prices are lower and forgiveness is greater. Day passes are all but gone.

At Crystal Mountain in Enumclaw, Ikon Pass renewal fees were discounted by $200, double the discount from the prior season. The Ikon Pass includes more than thirty resorts across the United States, including Crystal Mountain, The Summit at Snoqualmie and Mt. Bachelor in the Pacific Northwest. Under the Ikon Pass, passholders who didn’t use it this season, for whatever reason, have the option of deferring until the next season, no questions asked.

Mt. Bachelor created a new Passholder Promise for this season, under which passholders receive a voucher for ski days if the mountain is closed for extended periods and full refunds before November 20 for any reason.

Passholders rule at many resorts, especially this year. Because of social distancing and maximum crowd regulations, ski areas such as Stevens Pass make online reservations for onmountain time mandatory. Under its season Epic Pass, Stevens Pass (and others) allows passholders priority for reservations. Using a time-based reservation system will also help ski areas manage parking, which has been a pain point due to the popularity of skiing and snowboarding.

TRANSPORTATION WILL REQUIRE PATIENCE Mountain shuttles and buses will be the front line for civility or chaos. Those who opt for communal transportation should expect less capacity, longer waits and, possibly, reservations required.

AT RIGHT Seek solitude at Schweitzer Mountain Resort in Idaho. (photo: Schweitzer Mountain Resort)

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THE REST. UNLOCK ACCESS TO THE NW’S LARGEST PLAYGROUND — Come explore the sixth–largest ski resort in North America offering 4,323 acres of skiable terrain and the only 360° summit experience in the Northwest. Season passes and day tickets available now.

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SPECIAL SECTION

FACE COVERINGS ARE MANDATORY No matter how you get to the ski area, remember your face covering.

The NSAA is requiring its member ski areas to follow CDC mandatory mask guidelines for both indoor and outdoor spaces. Local, state and federal guidelines apply to all ski areas. Plastic shields do not meet the standard at ski areas. The good news is that many snow riders are already accustomed to wearing face coverings while on the mountain, so making it mandatory should not significantly change the culture.

Face coverings will be mandatory on and off the slopes this season.

MAINTAIN A SKI’S-LENGTH APART Social distancing meets skiing. One obvious change is how lift lines are managed. Nary a resort has used fluid dynamics well to manage the herd of riders in lift lines. This season, skiers and snowboarders will be required to maintain at least 6 feet in buffer to the next person, creating a seemingly long tail. All things considered, the tail of one set of skis to the boot of the next set of skis is typically around 6 feet. This may not seem like a derivation from the norm unless you’re counting time. Snowboarders queuing before dropping into terrain parks should also maintain at least 6 feet from the next boarder.

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Make tracks, make memories.

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SPECIAL SECTION

A QUICK GUIDE TO NAVIGATING THE 2020-21 SKI SEASON Day passes may be rare this year.

Gondolas like this one at Crystal Mountain will also be subject to social distancing. (photo: Crystal Mountain)

Make your reservation for ski times well in advance.

Season passholders will be able to defer their passes to next season without penalty.

CDC-defined masks are mandatory.

Plastic shields are not sufficient.

Shuttles will be more sparsely seated and take longer. Masks are mandatory.

Maintain a social distance of at least 6 feet in lift lines.

Unless a group is a family, lifts will accommodate fewer people per chair.

LIFTS WILL CARRY FEWER PEOPLE UPHILL If you’ve put on 15 pounds for COVID-19, fear not. Ski lifts will feel more roomy this season. Because of social distancing guidelines, those who are not family could be limited to one per chair, or two per quad chair. Vail Resorts, of which Stevens Pass is a member, announced at the end of August that masks will be required in all areas of their resorts and lifts will either be single or double occupancy for quads. Ear buds with music, podcasts and audible books are made for this. You may wait a few minutes longer, but no longer than a Tim Ferriss podcast humble-brag.

Though resorts in the Pacific Northwest have many chairlifts, there is only one enclosed lift—the Mt. Rainier Gondola at Crystal Mountain. Expect to see that gondola loaded with fewer people to conform to state and federal guidelines.

As always, maintain a safe distance from other skiers and snowboarders on the way down.

Gondolas will also be subject to social distancing. Take an open chairlift when possible.

Maintain safe distances while descending.

Restaurants and bars, if open, will enforce social distancing and mask requirements, except while eating or drinking.

Avoid crowded local bars and restaurants.

Be civil. We’re all in this together.

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FEWER INDOOR AND MORE OUTDOOR TABLES AT RESTAURANTS On-mountain eateries, if open, will look like phase 3 restaurant seating—farther apart and outdoors as much as possible. NSAA calls for increased cleaning and disinfecting for restaurants, restrooms, ticket offices and rental shops.

If your ski vacation contemplates patronizing local bars and restaurants, consider making that pasta dish or trying a new steak rub at your accommodations instead of putting yourself and others at risk in the general population.

For many, this season will test your ability to maintain civility. Always try to be the better person and ski and ride with a clear and open mind.

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2020

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Photo by Northwest Rafting Company

Top photos: Micah Cruver; bottom: Talia Jean Galvin

lodging

ACCOMMODATIONS The owners place a lot of value on meeting travelers where they are in life—and their wide range of accommodations reflect that. Choose European-style hotel rooms (named for different school subjects) with shared bathrooms on each hall, steal away to a private cabin, complete with an outdoor hammock and a kitchenette stocked with all the essentials for morning coffee, or embrace the hostel experience (like you’ve never experienced it) with the luxurious bunkhouse, complete with privacy curtains, outlets, cubbies and reading lights in each bunk.

TOP, FROM LEFT The Society’s lobby features a cafe serving breakfast and lunch. Rooms vary from private cabins to European-style options. A renovated school gym has games and equipment for guests. BOTTOM The hotel property centers on a renovated schoolhouse.

AMENITIES The heart of the Society Hotel vision has always been about connection. That’s what the hotel is going for with the renovated school gym (complete with games and equipment for guests), the airy lobby lined with books, and the spa and bathhouse (with outdoor hot tub, saltwater pool, sauna and cold plunge). In the lobby, you’ll find a cafe serving full breakfast and lunch, while in the bathhouse, snacks and drinks are served poolside. Guests in private cabins have full access to the spa, while those in the hostel and hotel rooms can add on a day pass.

EVENTS If you’re looking to host a yoga retreat, a corporate event or a wedding, there are a range of options on this property. From the renovated gym to the unique light-filled subterranean building known as the Sanctuary, you’re sure to find the perfect backdrop.

Lodging

The Society Hotel Bingen written by Cara Strickland THIS CHARMING HOTEL, a sister of the Society Hotel in Portland, is ready to be your home base for exploring the Columbia Gorge. Surrounded by mountains, a thriving food and drink scene, and a robust outdoor sports array, there’s something for everyone.

The hotel itself has a similar vibe to the Portland location, but with more room to spread out. The main building is a repurposed historic schoolhouse, with lots of options for recreation and relaxation on the property.

210 NORTH CEDAR STREET BINGEN www.thesocietyhotel.com

VisitVancouverUSA.com

Visit Vancouver USA

trip planner

Vancouver’s new waterfront development is a perfect spot for a stroll.

Very Vancouver

Vancouver has so much to offer, you’ll never even look across the river written by Sheila G. Miller

VANCOUVER IS COMMONLY considered a bedroom community for Portland, and in some ways that’s true.

Located just across the Columbia River from Oregon’s biggest city, people flock to Vancouver for its more affordable housing, the lack of state income tax and its small-town feel. But there are more reasons to spend time in Vancouver beyond its easy access to Portland. The city’s burgeoning brewing and dining scene, its compelling history and the variety of outdoor recreation options make it an easy spot to spend a weekend without ever wanting or needing to cross the river and head to the shining lights of Portland.

Remember that COVID-19 may have changed when locations are open and how they’re able to cater to visitors.

Call ahead and remember to wear a mask and practice social distancing.

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Day WALKING • WINE • FINE DINING You’ll want to start your trip by getting a lay of the land. In Vancouver, much of the area you’ll want to spend time in is within walking distance.

Start at the city’s new waterfront development, which has changed the face of the city entirely.

Once an industrial area not particularly hospitable to visitors, the 32 acres of waterfront has been transformed to provide walking trails, water-facing restaurants, bars and shops, as well as offices, condos and eventually, a boutique hotel.

After walking through Riverfront Park and wandering down the Grant Street Pier—suspended by cables instead of held up by pilings— to check out the mighty Columbia River, get that vacation feel early by checking out the wine tasting rooms on the waterfront. Maryhill Winery opened a tasting room along the waterfront in 2019, and there is a large patio if the weather cooperates. Nearby, Airfield Estates offers tastings of its Yakima Valley vintages and Pepper Bridge

Winery and Amavi Cellars will show you how it’s done in Walla Walla. Several other wineries, including Brian Carter Cellars, Valo Cellars and Barnard Griffin, are planning to join in the waterfront fun soon. If wine is your thing, you’ll also want to check out the more than two dozen other wine-tasting rooms and wineries in downtown Vancouver and beyond.

Grab lunch at the waterfront, or continue your walking tour by heading north toward Esther Short Park. The park serves as a kind of living room for the city, with plenty of spots to rest and, during normal times, a variety of events each weekend. After strolling through, swing over a few blocks to the Columbia Food Park. It’s a new idea to continue to revitalize this section of town—a large park once used by C-TRAN, the region’s public transit, sat empty or underused until this concept emerged. The idea is to bring a variety of new food vendors to the park, where they can congregate around a shared bar, like a food cart pod popular in other parts of the state. For now, you’ll find Mack Shack Gourmet Breakfast Burritos and Slow Fox Chili Parlor.

Other nearby restaurants sure to sate whatever hunger you’ve worked up on your walk include The Smokin’ Oak, a Texas-style barbecue joint with sandwiches like The Fatty and plates like the Texas Trinity, and Little Conejo, a great spot for tacos for $5 apiece.

A stroll through the rest of downtown will lead you to a variety of boutiques and vintage stores, including Most Everything Vintage, a must-stop for all lovers of kitsch.

When it’s time to call it a day, check into the Hilton Vancouver Washington or the Homewood Suites. But don’t end your night without dinner and a cocktail. The Grocery Cocktail & Social is the perfect spot for the end of your evening. Try one of the signature cocktails (Existential Crisis, anyone?) and split a Backyard Box with a choice of sides and sandwiches.

Photos: Visit Vancouver USA

trip planner

Day HISTORY • BREWS • ICE CREAM You’ve seen modern Vancouver. Today it’s time to go back in time. Vancouver has been an important part of the Pacific Northwest for hundreds of years, and it’s got the historic sites to prove it.

Chief among these is Fort Vancouver. The fort, established in 1825 as a fur trading post operated by the Hudson Bay Company, sits on the banks of the Columbia River. It served as the Northwest’s main colonial settlement until it burned in 1866.

Today, a replica of the original fort stands on the archaeological footprint of the fort, which was excavated and preserved by the National Park Service. You can walk through the wooden gates to find gardens, wooden buildings representing the fur store and other fort life of the 1800s.

The area also served as a military barracks—the first U.S. Army post in the Pacific Northwest and

FROM TOP Fort Vancouver’s history dates to the early 1800s. Maryhill Winery has a tasting room on the waterfront. Grab some tacos at Little Conejo.

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trip planner

ABOVE, FROM LEFT Project Confluence’s Land Bridge is a public art installation providing context of the region’s indigenous roots. Pearson Air Museum shows off historic aircraft. AT RIGHT A hike at Moulton Falls Regional Park is a must.

key during both the Civil War and the Indian War. After World War II, the barracks and base became a subset of Fort Lewis and was used primarily for offices. In 2011, the army base buildings were transferred to the National Park Service for restoration. Some have reopened to the public, while many remain closed.

Walking (or driving) through the barracks, just blocks from the I-5 corridor, feels like a true step back in time—there are structures with wraparound porches built in the early 1900s, a grouping of Civil Conservation Corps buildings put up in the 1930s and barracks from the 1940s. A quiet feeling of history pervades.

Many of the buildings have markers and signs that explain their historic uses. Find Officers Row, a group of twenty-two restored nineteenth century homes. Several are open to the public, and the Grant House, built in 1850, is now a nice restaurant perfect for grabbing a sandwich and a coffee.

But don’t rest too long—there’s more history at the Pearson Air Museum. It offers an inside look at the “golden age of aviation,” with old airplanes and historical information about the role the base and the airfield have played.

You’ve earned a beer after all this learning. The greater Vancouver area is home to a bevy of breweries and tap houses—forty-two at last count. You can stick close to the core with visits to Brothers Cascadia, Fortside or Loowit, or head out to the farther-flung options, like Grains of Wrath in Camas and Hookum in Ridgefield.

No matter what you pick, you’re going to find lots of great beer. Make sure to check each location to make sure they’ve reopened post-coronavirus. And if you really want to take your beer seriously, pick up a Brewcouver passport at a participating brewery and record visits to earn prizes.

Make a beeline for downtown’s Treat Vancouver, which makes small-batch desserts including ice cream, donuts and pies. Flavors change with the seasons and are worth a detour if you’re not nearby.

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For dinner (do you have room for dinner?), treat yourself at Amaro’s Table. This cocktail hotspot has two locations—one in downtown, the other in Hazel Dell—and a daily risotto special. That’s about as good as it gets.

Day PIZZA • CONFLUENCE • WATERFALLS Though it may be hard to believe, you’ve really only scratched the surface on the culinary hotspots of Vancouver, but if time is running out, make sure to head over to Rally Pizza. It’s tucked into an unassuming strip mall on Mill Plain Boulevard, ten minutes east of downtown. And it’s worth the detour, because it offers the perfect thincrust pizza and perhaps more importantly, concretes— frozen custard blended with treats like Washington cherries and lemon curd.

With your belly full and your brain ready for more important history, you may want to visit the Confluence Project’s Vancouver Land Bridge, an earth-covered pedestrian bridge that connects Fort Vancouver with the Columbia River over State Route 14. The site opened in 2008 and has native basket weavings, indigenous plants and a timeline path that shows how the landscape has changed over time.

Views of the river and Mount Hood here are spectacular.

It’s part of Confluence, a nonprofit that has worked with a half dozen Pacific Northwest communities, tribes and artist Maya Lin to create public art installations that help tell the history of the Columbia River system.

Then, see at least one of the outdoor wonders that Vancouver has on its doorstep. After a forty-five minute drive along the Northern Clark County Scenic Drive, you’ll find yourself in Moulton Falls Regional Park, which features hiking trails that can take you to two waterfalls, as well as a high arch bridge and a swing bridge over Big Tree Creek.

You’ll leave here vowing to explore Clark County more— and soon.

VANCOUVER, WASHINGTON

trip planner

EAT The Smokin Oak www.thesmokinoakpit.com Treat Vancouver www.treatvancouver.com The Grocery www.thegrocerycocktailsocial.com Amaro’s Table www.amarostable.com Little Conejo www.littleconejo.com Rally Pizza www.rallypizza.com

STAY Hilton Vancouver Washington www3.hilton.com HomeWood Suites www.hilton.com

PLAY Fort Vancouver www.nps.gov/fova/index.htm Brewcouver www.brewcouver.com The Waterfront www.thewaterfront vancouverusa.com

Photos: Visit Vancouver USA

Moulton Falls www.visitvancouverusa.com/ things-to-do/outdoor-recreation/ moulton-falls

ABOVE Rally Pizza is high-quality food in a no-frills setting.

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northwest destination

New in Newport

A small town on the Pacific comes out of its shell written by Kevin Max

PERHAPS DESIGNED BY COVID-conscious forces, Agate Beach in Newport comes in packages that are socially distanced.

The tides and the wind collude to create a sandscape of hills, plateaus, and walled and sunken rooms made from sand. It all has the feeling of being blown from the pages of Dune.

A small town on the central Oregon Coast, Newport has always had a distinct personality shaped by oddities and fisheries.

It’s home to both Ripley’s Believe it or Not museum and a historic bayfront laden with impressive trawlers, their fishing poles and rigging jutting into blue skies. If you blur your eyes, you could easily create a Monet painting from the harbor at Le Havre.

The industry, the art and the recreation here have always been centered on the sea. From Oregon’s crab, albacore tuna and Chinook salmon catches, to galleries along SW Bay Avenue, to surfing and recreational fishing from docks and chartered boats, Newport is a splinter of its namesake, Newport, Rhode Island.

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While our Newport has struggled to define a larger role for itself over the years, many recent additions have brought the town of a little more than 10,000 people into focus. Oregon State University has a large and growing investment in Newport with the Hatfield Marine Science Center. Opened this year is the new, $61.7 million, 72,000-square-foot Marine Studies Building with classrooms, offices and an innovation lab for marine sciences students.

For foodie visitors, the opening of Local Ocean couldn’t come soon enough. The Oregon Coast is full of fish, but few are the restaurants that don’t bread and fry them. Down on the historic bayfront, Local Ocean has garage-like doors that open to the bay and a menu that opens Newport for fine seafood dining. The menu, the staff and the setting are extraordinary. Dishes such as the grilled halibut with Swiss chard, edamame and applewood-smoked bacon and the seared coho salmon with roasted poblano pepper in a saffron sauce will have you hooked.

Kevin Max

NEWPORT, OREGON

northwest destination

EAT Local Ocean www.localocean.net Mo’s Seafood & Chowder www.moschowder.com Rogue Brewery Bayfront Public House www.rogue.com The Coffee House www.thecoffeehousenewport.com

STAY Best Western Plus Agate Beach Inn www.bestwestern.com The Embarcadero Resort www.embarcaderoresort.com

PLAY Buy fish from the dock at the historic bayfront www.discovernewport.com

Kevin Max

Go crabbing from the Newport free public crabbing pier www.discovernewport.com Surf the coast www.ossiessurfshop.com Charter your own fishing boat www.nmscharters.com

AT LEFT The Yaquina Head Lighthouse stands guard over Newport. ABOVE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Yaquina Bay Bridge is an Oregon classic. Animals like the tufted puffin greet visitors to the Oregon Coast Aquarium. Sea lions spend time on the docks. Ripley’s Believe It or Not Museum is filled with kitschy oddities.

Rogue Brewery’s public house is also along the bayfront and shouldn’t be overlooked. This brewery captures the terroir and vibe of Newport with its ales. Across the elegant Yaquina Bay Bridge, by famed architect Conde McCullough, is Rogue’s bigger footprint with its massive brewing facility and its Rogue Spirits Sunset Bar, where its distilled spirits are served alongside beer and a good pub menu.

Next door is another vaunted institution of the Oregon Coast—the Oregon Coast Aquarium. Recently reopened after closing due to the pandemic, visitors can now make reservations and follow a one-way circuit to stay safe while getting inspired by the stunning new Indo-Pacific Coral Reef exhibit.

In-person education programs for kids will reboot when it is safe to do so.

Once a scene of crowded tents buzzing with attendees, one of the premier events on the Oregon Coast, the Newport Seafood

& Wine Festival, will change its format to allow for safer distancing this February. The new options include small shuttles that will take people to intimate dining settings or a virtual festival, in which virtual festival-goers buy a kit that includes bottles of wine.

Pair that with fresh seafood from Newport, from Local Ocean’s Dock Boxes (a local seafood meal kit shipped to your front door with everything needed to make two meals) or an order from Oregon’s Choice, wild caught and fresh-canned Chinook, Dungeness and Albacore tuna. Close your eyes, take a bite and you will be transported to Newport’s docks where trawlers are unloading fresh fish, the gulls are crying in jealousy and the sea lions are grunting dominance and approval.

Remember that COVID-19 may have changed when locations are open and how they’re able to cater to visitors. Call ahead and remember to wear a mask and practice social distancing.

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2020

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1889 MAPPED

The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1889.

Friday Harbor

Aberdeen

Newport

Marysville Everett Chelan

Seattle Bellevue

Port Orchard

Tacoma

Colville Okanogan

Whidbey Island

Olympic National Park

Republic

Winthrop

Coupeville

Port Townsend

Shelton

North Cascades National Park

Mount Vernon

Port Angeles Forks

Oroville

Bellingham

San Juan Islands

Leavenworth

Renton Kent Federal Way

Wilbur

Waterville

Spokane Davenport

Wenatchee Ephrata Ritzville

Montesano Olympia

Mount Rainier N.P.

Ellensburg Colfax

Chehalis

South Bend

Pullman Yakima Pomeroy

Long Beach Kelso

Cathlamet

Longview

Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument

Richland

Mount Adams

Prosser

Pasco

Dayton

Walla Kennewick Walla

Goldendale Vancouver

94

Stevenson

Live

Think

Explore

15 The Pavilion

40 Atomo Molecular Coffee

76

Bellewood Farms

18 Métier Brewing

42 Urban Visions

78

Crystal Mountain

20 Callen’s Restaurant

44 WSU Viticulture & Enology program

86

The Society Hotel

21 Watershed Cafe

46 Cugini Italian Imports & Deli

88

Esther Short Park

22 Holmquist Hazelnuts

48 GoToTags

92

Newport, Oregon

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2020

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Until Next Time The Wenatchee River, near Leavenworth. photo by Petar Marshall

BREATHING DEEPLY COMES NATURALLY

Three rivers and seven wilderness areas meet in Missoula, Montana, a small town with extraordinary personality and transcendent charm. It’s ecstasy for the outdoorsy—an essential escape to the fresh mountain air. A chance to rest and renew, unplug from the everyday and plug into nature. Be nourished and eat well in this hip little community and culinary hot spot where local food reigns, and soak in the serenity of some of the world’s most soul-stirring landscapes.



YOGA ON THE CLARK FORK RIVER, DOWNTOWN MISSOULA.

Masks on. Keep your distance. Travel smart. We’ll see you soon. Find everything you need to know before you hit the road at destinationmissoula.org/travel-updates

Welcome to hospitality!

TOPPENISH, WA LEGENDSCASINO.COM