1889 Washington's Magazine | October/November 2018

Washington’s Magazine

Cranberry Recipes

Innovative Tiny Homes

Southern Oregon Wine Tasting

October | November 2018

AMAZED

TRIP PLANNER: WALLA WALLA PG. 76

WINERIES

BOUTIQUE SHOPPING | LOCAL HARVEST | ART WALKS BALD EAGLE VIEWING | ELECTRIFYING EVENTS THE WINE ISSUE

WITH VIEWS

BOLD + BEAUTIFUL WINERIES from Walla Walla to Vashon Island (and everywhere between)

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October | November

volume 11

You’re Welcome ...here.

Step into the Urban Wine Tour.

A wonderfully walkable wine experience.

Taste them all - we don’t judge.

visitspokane.com | #lovespokane

FEATURES OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018 • volume 11

58

46

Wind Wranglers

Tripping Over Washington Wine Country

Every year, Long Beach transforms during the weeklong Washington State International Kite Festival.

We scoured the state for the best wine-tasting experiences around Washington, from big-city views to island life.

photography by Kate Daigneault

written by Viki Eierdam

52 Preserving the Past The complicated legacy of Hanford lives on thanks to a national park and other history initiatives.

Kate Daigneault

written by Sheila G. Miller

A couple looks out at the Washington State International Kite Festival from nearby dunes.

Alaska

Awakening Just you and a few locals—Sitka deer, bears, moose, seals, sea otter pups, and migrating birds and whales. Peaks covered in snow. Budding forests. Northern lights and rainbows. Waterfalls rush, meltwaters flow, and calving glaciers send bergy bits on their merry way. For many, April and May is their favorite time of year.

small ships, BIG adventures

KAYAK l HIKE l SKIFF l CULTURE l WILDLIFE

888-862-8881

7-, 8- & 14-night adventure cruises • 22 to 90 guests • Apr-Sep

UnCruise.com

DEPARTMENTS OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018 • volume 11

74

LIVE 14 SAY WA?

Get into the fall spirit with Thanksgiving in Wine Country and other autumn events. Then, take a page from Nancy Blakey’s new book and get outside for an adventure or two.

18 FOOD + DRINK

McMenamins’ Kalama Harbor Lodge serves up all the charm, Rachel’s Ginger Beer provides an alternative treat, plus our picks for the best places for coffee around the state.

22 FARM TO TABLE

Pass the cranberry relish—hopefully made with berries from Washington’s cranberry bogs in Grayland.

26 HOME + DESIGN

Two designers merge form and function to create beautiful, liveable tiny homes.

Fire & Vine Hospitality

32 MIND + BODY

21

Like father, like son—the Millimans are gold-medal winners at the National Senior Games.

34 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE

Mary Beth Beuke makes one-of-a-kind jewelry creations through her company, West Coast Sea Glass.

68

THINK 38 STARTUP

Search no more for a pet-sitter. Seattle’s Rover comes to the rescue.

40 WHAT’S GOING UP

New wine-tasting options pop up around the state.

41 WHAT I’M WORKING ON

Dr. Darryl Potok talks medical education in Spokane.

42 MY WORKSPACE

UnCruise Adventures’ Sue Rooney says she has the best job in the world—and we can’t disagree.

Water from Wine sells wine to pay for worldwide clean-water projects.

Justin Bailie

Through Stories

44 GAME CHANGER

EXPLORE 66 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT

10 11 86 88

Editor’s Letter 1889 Online Map of Washington Until Next Time

Federal Way’s Pacific Bonsai Museum presents its bonsai as fine art pieces.

68 ADVENTURE

Join a novice on a charter salmon-fishing trip along the Columbia River.

74 LODGING

Eritage Resort is an adults-only oasis in Walla Walla, just right for the wine lover in your life.

76 TRIP PLANNER

Walla Walla is a southeastern Washington charmer with more than just wine to please the palate.

82 NORTHWEST DESTINATION

Southern Oregon is the state’s other wine country, and its small towns hide local bounty and cultural experiences.

COVER

photo courtesy of Alexandria Nicole Cellars (see Tripping Over Washington Wine Country, pg. 46)

6 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

theevocative

Truffles

sensual are coming... delicious Oregon’s Winter Food, Wine, Truffle Hunting, and Marketplace Extravaganza The Joriad™ North American Truffle Dog Championship January 24, 2019 Eugene and Willamette Valley Truffle Country January 25 – 27, 2019 Yamhill Valley Wine Country February 15 – 17, 2019 TICKETS oregontrufflefestival.org

angela estate | eugene cascades and coast | food for lane county | hilton eugene | j. scott cellars | king estate | mountain rose herbs new world truffieres | oregon culinary institute | oregon wine press | provisions market hall | red hills market | travel oregon | viking braggot co.

1889.FP.LogoProgress.indd 1

9/11/18 11:57 AM

CONTRIBUTORS

LAURA CHERAU Writer Adventure

JUSTIN BAILIE Photographer Adventure

After watching so many people fish on the Columbia River for years and years, I decided to try my luck on opening day of Buoy 10. I will admit I was a total novice in the fishing department. With no experience whatsoever, would chartering a very fast boat be any fun? Of course. Is it worth it to get out there and try something new? It totally is. (pg. 68)

Astoria, Oregon, is one of my favorite places to photograph.

It’s a beautiful town with so much history, and most of it came to be because of the Columbia River and salmon.

Since I grew up in the area, the guide and I knew many of the same people and had a great time talking about our home.

And even though we didn’t catch a lot of fish, the weather was about as good as it gets. (pg. 68)

8 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

VIKI EIERDAM Writer Tripping Over Washington Wine Country Exploring a hobby or interest along the road adds another layer to the travel experience, and the geographic diversity of Washington is a wine lover’s playground. From urban wineries in a bustling city to a mountain town slathered in European charm, Washington is brimming with adventures between the vines. Here’s hoping you have as much fun as I did seeking out fresh ways to savor wine. (pg. 46)

KATE DAIGNEAULT Photographer Gallery I’ve been to Long Beach quite a few times, but the Kite Festival makes it come alive. I love how it attracts kite enthusiasts of all levels and from all over.

Everyone proudly flies their favorite kites, whether they are competing or not. It makes for such a surreal scene having the sky filled with colorful shapes and characters. The choreographed kite ballet is my favorite, and the large kite field just can’t be missed. (pg. 58)

EDITOR Kevin Max

MANAGING EDITOR Sheila G. Miller CREATIVE Allison Bye MARKETING + DIGITAL MANAGER Kelly Rogers

OFFICE MANAGER

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Cindy Miskowiec Jenny Kamprath

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Cindy Guthrie Jenn Redd

BEERVANA COLUMNIST

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Jackie Dodd

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Melissa Dalton, Cheryl Dimof, Viki Eierdam, Catie Joyce-Bulay, Lauren Kramer, Ben Salmon, Vanessa Salvia, Cara Strickland, Chad Walsh, Corinne Whiting Justin Bailie, Kate Daigneault, Gemina Garland-Lewis

Statehood Media Mailing Address

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All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmitted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs appearing in 1889 Washington’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. 1889 Washington’s Magazine and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily those of 1889 Washington’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 9

FROM THE EDITOR WELCOME TO THE 1889 fall wine issue. I don’t have problems associating good wine with all seasons, personally, but fall is the harvest and crush, the barrel tasting and the season to do it all in proper attire.

Washington has so many world-class wineries and winemakers that it’s necessary to find a single organizing thread within this vast class to pursue. In this issue, we seek a cross-section of the state’s most scenic wineries—from Lummi Island to Vancouver to Woodinville, Yakima to Walla Walla. After all, wine is an experience, and how and where you have it become a part of your overall first impression. (If you can’t make it out to one of our scenic wineries, you can go local. What’s Going Up on page 40 reveals three new wine cellars and bars in Woodinville, West Richland and on Mercer Island.)

Our Trip Planner and Northwest Destination pieces are both centered on wine-growing regions, too. Trip Planner (page 76) will bring new reasons to visit Walla Walla. Northwest Destination (page 82) takes us down south to Southern Oregon’s Applegate, Rogue and Illinois valleys, where hidden-gem wineries are tucked back in the hills.

Farmer and winemaker Pat Tucker talks to us about using wine for a higher cause. In Game Changer on page 44, we delve Tucker’s devotion of 6 acres of wine to nonprofits that help provide people with clean water. In its first harvest under this program in 2014, Water for Wine donated 100 percent of proceeds of 984 cases.

Over on the coast, we wade into cranberry bogs in Grayland alongside cranberry farmer Matt Reichenberger. The second week of October brings Grayland’s cranberry harvest, the Cranberry Harvest Festival and the cranberry cook-off. If you can’t make it out for this event, support Washington cranberry growers by buying Washington cranberries and trying one of our recipes (on page 25) this holiday season.

One of the more intriguing stories of the issue lies in the pages of Small Wonders on page 26. We get an inside look at

10 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

two innovative tiny houses in Olympia and Wenatchee whose designers have made the tiny movement big.

My favorite of this issue, however, has nothing to do with wine or small homes, but a relic of WWII. This is a fascinating piece about the history of the Hanford Nuclear Site and its plutonium-production role in the Manhattan Project. As one of three secret sites working in tandem to harness nuclear fission for the bombs that would end WWII, Hanford is an interesting piece of world history that has been preserved as a National Historic Park, with tours for the public. “I think by studying the past, we get a better sense for the present,” observed Atomic Heritage Foundation president, Cindy Kelly.

Perhaps now more than ever, the past holds keys to understanding our present. Cheers!

1889 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Washington content www.1889mag.com | #1889washington | @1889washington

washington: in focus Have a photo that captures your Washington experience? Share it with us by filling out the Washington: In Focus form on our website. If chosen, you’ll be published here. www.1889mag.com/ in-focus

photo by Jason Bettyas

Mt. Rainier

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OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 11

FOOD + DRINK 18 FARM TO TABLE 22 HOME + DESIGN 26 MIND + BODY 32 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 34

pg. 22 Washington cranberries are a perfect fall flavor.

Gemina Garland-Lewis

SAY WA? 14

2019 Angus Bowmer Theatre

As You Like It

By William Shakespeare Directed by Rosa Joshi

on Ticketsrting a Sale Stber 2018 Novem

Hairspray The Broadway Musical Book by Mark O’Donnell and Thomas Meehan Music by Marc Shaiman Lyrics by Scott Wittman and Marc Shaiman Based on the New Line Cinema film written and directed by John Waters Directed by Christopher Liam Moore Mother Road

By Octavio Solis Directed by Bill Rauch World Premiere Indecent

By Paula Vogel Directed by Shana Cooper American Revolutions

Allen Elizabethan Theatre

Thomas Theatre

Cambodian Rock Band

By Lauren Yee Featuring songs by Dengue Fever Directed by Chay Yew Between Two Knees By the 1491s Directed by Eric Ting World Premiere/American Revolutions How to Catch Creation

By Christina Anderson Directed by Nataki Garrett

Macbeth

By William Shakespeare Directed by José Luis Valenzuela Alice in Wonderland

By Eva Le Gallienne and Florida Friebus Adapted from Lewis Carroll Directed by Sara Bruner All’s Well That Ends Well

By William Shakespeare Directed by Tracy Young Pilot Community Visit Project La Comedia of Errors Bilingual Play on! translation by Luis Alfaro Directed by Bill Rauch

2019 opening weekend: March 8 – 10 Playbill subject to change

March 1 – October 27 Artistic Director Bill Rauch Executive Director Cynthia Rider www.osfashland.org 1.800.219.8161 Two World Premieres and one short play about a long separation

Oklahoma! (2018): Royer Bockus, Tatiana Wechsler. Photo by Jenny Graham.

say wa?

ca mark le you nd r ar

Tidbits & To-dos

Bee Bar Lotion These decorative tins from Honey House Naturals contain a lotion that is incredibly longlasting—six months to be exact. Simply warm the Bee Bar Lotion up in your hands and enjoy.

Packed with rich emollients and essential oils, it’s the perfect thing to have on hand as the weather turns colder. www.honeyhousenaturals.com

Pumpkin Bash Celebrate Halloween this year at the Woodland Park Zoo for the annual Pumpkin Bash on October 27 and 28. This family-friendly event gets the zoo animals playing with their very own pumpkins as part of an ongoing enrichment program. See tigers, bears, hippos, lemurs and many more smash, stomp and roll their pumpkin toys. There will also be trick-or-treating for kids. One child 12 or under in costume gets free admission with a paying adult. www.zoo.org/events

camark yo len ur da r Northwest Chocolate Festival The Northwest Chocolate Festival is the premier event to attend if you have a sweet tooth. There are chocolate exhibits on display with more than eighty tasting workshops, a 21-and-over lounge, and a chocolate factory. Pick out a few holiday gifts while you’re there and be sure to sample the beer, wine and spirits. www.nwchocolate.com

14 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

say wa?

Halfpops

Thanksgiving in Wine Country Celebrate Thanksgiving weekend in Washington wine country this year, November 23-25. Many wineries throughout the Yakima Valley will offer special tastings, food pairings, live music and special holiday deals. Find out from winemakers and chefs which wines pair best with seasonal and traditional favorites.

our rk y dar a m n

cal

e

www.yakimavalleywinecountry.com

Are you the type of person who loves when the popcorn is almost gone so you can eat the halfpopped corn in the bottom of the bowl? This Seattle company created a snack that is just that. We’re just wondering why no one thought of this sooner.

Halfpops is sold in specialty markets around Washington and is available in seven tasty flavors. www.halfpops.com

Spiced Cider Mix MarketSpice has a new product just in time for fall—its very own blend of mulling spices with allspice, orange peel, cinnamon and cloves. Enjoy this blend as a traditional spiced cider or use it as the perfect base for your hot spiced wine recipe. www.marketspice.com

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 15

Janet Allison

say wa?

Musician

Dream Team

Jazz stars unite to make music written by Ben Salmon

THIS FALL, Washington jazz luminaries Jay Thomas and Oliver Groenewald will release a new album, I Always Knew, powered by Groenewald’s “little big band,” NewNet. It took a confluence of circumstances for the work to even exist. First, the two had to meet many years ago, when Groenewald, a native of Germany, was engaged in post-graduate work in the United States. Then, five years ago, Groenewald—a trumpeter, composer and arranger— contacted his old friend Thomas about gathering players to perform some of his works.

Thomas—one of Seattle’s finest saxophonists—called the “best guys in the area,” he said, and jumped at the chance to play Groenewald’s music.

“I love Oliver’s arranging so much,” he said, “and I have been thinking on an ambitious project for some time.”

Thomas’ father had been encouraging him to do an album of ballads, he said, and with Groenewald on board—as well as his elegant arrangements that give sturdy American jazz some effortless European flavor—it seemed like the time was right. “(With ballads), the trick is to have it be strong and exciting as well as lyrical and soulful, with sections that are faster and 16 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

higher and louder,” Thomas said. “I chose some songs that are lesser known because I love them.”

Thomas, Groenewald and the rest of NewNet spent a couple days recording at Robert Lang Studios in Shoreline.

“The old-fashioned way,” Thomas said. “All in the same room and no headphones.”

The result is twelve tracks of sumptuous, swinging jazz, including Dexter Gordon’s “Ernie’s Tune,” Hoagy Carmichael’s “Stardust” and Duke Ellington’s “Blue Serge.” All but one are arranged by Groenewald, who also contributed a couple original songs.

“The tapestries of sound that Oliver constructed are amazing and unique and different, like Gil Evans mixed with Stravinsky, and never interfering with my train of thought as an improviser,” Thomas said. “They sound mature, and the music has a vibe that is a result of the band’s collective experience, and of course a love of the music, respect for each other and the joy of creating something new together.”

MORE ONLINE

For more information and to find upcoming concerts, head to www.jaythomasjazz.com and www.olivergroenewald.com

Nick Hall

say wa?

Bibliophile

On the Wild Side New book wants to make outdoors accessible to all interview by Sheila G. Miller

NANCY BLAKEY wants you to get outside.

Damn the rain—just go for it.

Blakey, a mother of four, wrote five books based on a syndicated column called Mudpies, which she wrote for Seattle’s Child.

In the books, she came up with interesting activities kids could do instead of watching TV or playing video games.

“I believe in benign neglect,” she said of her way of raising children. “All the projects I ever saw, you had to do with the kids. They felt fussy, and you had to show the kids what to do and supervise them. My philosophy was just sort of hands off, which is what true creativity is.”

Her new book, By The Shore: Explore the Pacific Northwest Coast Like A Local, which came out in May, is a similar approach, just for grownups. The book gives readers ideas for accessing the outdoors and the wilderness, season by season, with activities, advice and recipes.

“My ideal reader is a couch potato who’s kind of restless,” Blakey said. “A lot of people are super outdoorsy, and those people may enjoy the book. But my goal is, I really want to get people outside.”

What was the research for this book like?

When I was first asked to propose the book, I said, ‘I don’t want to do a typical guidebook—I don’t want to do Fodor’s. I want to do polar bear plunges and beach fires.

Sasquatch Books was great—they let me run with it and gave me free rein. So I just put in there things I wanted to do, or things I wanted to explore, or things I had already done that I wanted to share with others. I’ve always been pretty outdoorsy, but that had slid away.

You just get buried with work and kids. I had this light bulb after meeting a woman who said, ‘Oh you live on Bainbridge Island? You must be hiking and kayaking all the time.’ It was kind of embarrassing.

So I began exploring and hiking. I live in Alaska in the summers, and the backcountry is so unforgiving that it’s made me a pretty astute outdoors person. You have to know what you’re doing. So I brought that into my book.

How did you settle on the format? I love the way you give advice.

The idea actually came from my editor, Hannah Elnan. This book is technically geared toward millennials. One of them wanted to go salmon fishing but didn’t know where to start and didn’t want to appear stupid. So we came up with this idea of a guidebook. All these people have come to Seattle or the Pacific Northwest, so Hannah suggested, ‘How about you guide us? How about you teach us?’

The back story is my husband died suddenly five years ago.

He was delivering a motorcycle to Loreto in Baja Mexico and he had a heart attack. I was blindsided, and my whole family spent a couple years reeling. The book absolutely was one of the things that brought me back to

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

the things I love, and to life again.

The outdoors has always been a real consolation to me, and to take family members and friends and do the research tailored to whoever I was with and what they were interested in really brought me out of that gray zone and showed me that the world was still waiting. I have years ahead of me, hopefully, and the book was really instrumental for me. It brought me back around.

What was your favorite adventure you did for the book?

Solo hiking has always interested me, and I’d done a night here and a night there solo. But it’s kind of daunting as a woman to go by yourself. I really, really wanted to do it. It was part of my healing to get out there and face it with squared shoulders. Men do it all the time and nobody blinks, but a woman does it, and it’s like, ‘Oh no!’ I did The Juan de Fuca Trail on Vancouver Island. It was incredible, it was daunting, it was hard. I got muddy and bruised, but I just really loved it. Plus, I did it—now I can do it without blinking. Just like any endeavor, you put one foot in front of another. I don’t think anyone ever goes outside and comes back in and says, ‘Oh, I wish I hadn’t done that.’

How do you hope people use your book?

I hope it feels accessible. My intention is to make the outdoors accessible for everyone, a family or a 30-something or a boomer. I want the book to scale up or scale down. I think it’s really important for people to understand that spending time outdoors is one of the most valuable things they can do for their wellbeing. More and more research is showing that the outdoors is, in a way, critical to our sense of contentment and de-stressing.

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 17

food + drink

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Beers on tap include Kalama-only offerings.

Views of the Columbia River abound.

Totem poles have been on site for more than forty years. Ahles Point cabin is a cozy spot for a drink.

Beervana

The Clamor in Kalama written and photographed by Jackie Dodd KALAMA IS A small rail town and a shipping port that’s easy to pass without notice. Charming even from a distance but forgettable once you’ve reached your final stop, the small town of Kalama is now officially “destination worthy.”

With their signature combination of upcycled antiques and local artisan creations, the McMenamin brothers have brought the familiar stay-and-play hotel chain to a quietly captivating stretch of the Columbia River, just fortyfive minutes north of Portland. Kalama Harbor Lodge is absolutely worth any effort it takes to get there.

In some ways, it’s exactly what you’re used to, and in other ways, it’s a perfect step forward for the booze-andlodging brand. The beer, wine and food are what you expect—they won’t change the world but will make you full and content. After all, no one can really be mad with a full pint of a well-hopped beer and plate of Cajun tater tots.

The beer is both exactly the same core pours you’ve had at every location, as well as a healthy amount of impressive just-for-Kalama beer offerings (I’d recommend asking what’s new and limited release). The property is more beautiful than most of the renovated schoolhouses in the McMenamins portfolio, yet full of artfully crafted and wellplaced touches that sit like secrets waiting to be discovered.

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Two hidden passageways exist, concealed in plain sight behind paneled walls in different hallways, lovely murals depicting historical events adorn the walls throughout the grounds, and the architectural aesthetic was built to honor the Hawaiian heritage of the town’s founder, John Kalama.

The property is one you’d do well to get lost in, grab and a pint and just wander the grounds. Cloud Bar, perched on top of the hotel, is the perfect place to start with views of the river not rivaled within 100 miles. From there (once you’ve located the secret passageways, of course), wander just south, past the three sky-scraping totem poles, along a sleepy little well-paved path to a small cabin on the shore.

It’s not just any cabin, of course, it’s Ahles Point, the coziest place to enjoy a pint on the shores of the Columbia. A wood-burning fireplace, a small bar that seats only a few patrons, and a couple small tables are all you’ll find, making it the perfect place to enjoy a few beers and chat up the bartenders.

It’s far enough away from the hustle of Seattle or Portland to feel like you’re on vacation, but it’s just a short drive, leaving you with a feeling of being a million miles away yet right at home. In a way, it’s like adult summer camp. The other lodgers don’t travel too far during their stay. You’ll see them again at the restaurants during meal times. On the shore are water activities, and it’s not unusual to hear singing and merriment once the sun goes down. People are friendly and easy to meet, the beer is cold and well-made, and even when the service is slow, you remember that’s because life is slow here, and that’s exactly why you came in the first place.

food + drink

Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of Heritage Distilling Company

Brown Sugar Bourbon Horchata 2 ounces Heritage Distilling brown sugar bourbon 1 ounce horchata ½ ounce cream of coconut Orange slice, for garnish Grated cinnamon, for garnish Pour all ingredients over ice and stir to mix. Garnish with orange and grated cinnamon.

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 19

food + drink

CRAVINGS BAKED GOODS There’s really nothing like a piece of quiche from Brown Bear Baking—the contents are always changing. It’s worth getting there early in the day to make sure they don’t sell out and to get a great selection on all of the housemade pastries and goodies.

29 NORTH BEACH ROAD #1966 EASTSOUND www.facebook.com/BrownBearBaking

BAVARIAN FOOD Enjoy German sausages (including a vegetarian option) along with craft beer in a fun, festive setting at München Haus.

Top your sausages with a large assortment of mustard options, and don’t forget the cider kraut!

709 FRONT STREET LEAVENWORTH www.munchenhaus.com

PORT-STYLE WINE Rachel’s Ginger Beer has four locations in Seattle and Portland.

Gastronomy

Rachel’s Ginger Beer written by Cara Strickland FROM THE SEATTLE farmers markets to a spot in Pike’s Place Market and distribution all over the place (you can buy it on the website if no one stocks it locally), this company is a Washington success story. One sip will tell you why this delicious concoction has caught on. Founder Rachel Marshall was inspired to develop her product after living in Europe for several years after college. She’d never had traditional ginger beer before, but she was hooked and wanted to share what she’d found. Once back in the States, she went to work dialing in a recipe for her classic brew, later expanding to seasonal flavors as well. Now, there are four locations where you can fill a growler, get a Moscow Mule, or just sip straight ginger beer. But the company hasn’t forgotten its roots—you’ll still find RGB at the farmers markets.

1530 POST ALLEY (FIND OTHER LOCATIONS ONLINE) SEATTLE www.rachelsgingerbeer.com

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Wander over to the Gilbert Cellars tasting room and treat yourself to a sip of the non-vintage port-style wine, made from favorite vintages of tempranillo (what the Portuguese call “Tinta Roriz”). It’s a lovely way to end a meal.

5 NORTH FRONT STREET, SUITE 100 YAKIMA www.gilbertcellars.com

TOMATO BASIL BISQUE There’s nothing quite as comfortingly decadent as a hot bowl of tomato basil bisque, and Gunnar’s nails it. Pick up a cup of coffee or a sandwich while you’re there, or browse the natural market.

811 HIGHWAY 970, SUITE #6 CLE ELUM www.gunnarscommunity.com

food + drink

BEST PLACES FOR

COFFEE OLYMPIA COFFEE ROASTING COMPANY

600 4TH AVENUE EAST OLYMPIA www.olympiacoffee.com (check website for other locations in Olympia, Tacoma, and West Seattle)

SUNSHINE DRIP COFFEE LOUNGE

Photos: Through Stories

Hip surroundings mean nothing if the coffee doesn’t deliver—but that’s just not the case here. Enjoy a variety of expertly roasted coffee— at the downtown location, you can watch roasting happen while you do.

This Whidbey Island spot makes a smooth, satisfying latte and doubles as a gift shop. Enjoy light food options as well for a quick breakfast or lunch.

306 NORTH MAIN STREET COUPEVILLE www.facebook.com/sunshinedrip

MONORAIL ESPRESSO Famous the world over for being the first-ever espresso cart, Monorail now has three locations to meet your coffee needs. It’s been delivering high-quality coffee since 1980, adding homemade flavors (such as the delicious rose syrup) and baked goods along the way.

510 PIKE STREET SEATTLE www.facebook.com/monorailespresso117657621584837 (Additional locations in Westlake and Columbia Center)

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Cochinito’s tacos feature housemade tortillas. The taqueria has a full bar. Justin Curtis, left, and Travis Dickinson started the Spokane hot spot.

Dining

Cochinito Taqueria written by Cara Strickland

This cool spot roasts coffee on site, and its baristas are just waiting to share their coffee passion with you.

Check out the housemade shrubs for a non-caffeinated treat.

TRAVIS DICKINSON and Justin Curtis met while working together at Spokane favorite Clover. Dickinson was the chef and Curtis ran the front of the house. When they teamed up to start their own chef-made taqueria in downtown Spokane, complete with housemade tortillas and a commitment to seasonal, local ingredients made at a fine-dining level, it was bound to be good.

Dickinson drew on the food tradition he married into—his wife is originally from Sinaloa, Mexico. The results are sometimes surprisingly different, occasionally comfortingly familiar, but always worthwhile. Pair your tacos and appetizers with housemade sauces and salsas as well as thoughtfully curated beverages, including a fully stocked bar with a fresh, playful cocktail list. You can start small, but you’ll soon see why there’s a line just for people who want seconds.

2823 NORTH MONROE STREET SPOKANE www.vesselroasters.com

10 NORTH POST STREET SPOKANE www.cochinitotaqueria.com

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1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 21

farm to table

Cranberry farmer Matt Reichenberger talks about different berry varieties growing in his fields while riding on one of his track cars.

Farm to Table

Cranberries on the Coast This holiday treat is also a Washington crop written by Corinne Whiting photography by Gemina Garland-Lewis

FOR CERTAIN PARTS of Washington, this season has one (delicious) focus—cranberries. Take Grayland, a picturesque spot on the Pacific Coast where salty air meets marshy land. It’s situated about two-and-a-half hours southwest of Seattle. Each autumn, a weekend of food-focused festivities enlivens the Grayland Community Hall, appropriately located on Cranberry Road. The venue was built in 1939 by industrious Finns who populated and harvested the region.

Through the Years About 235 cranberry growers currently work on the West Coast, from Oregon to British Columbia. Cranberry farming in the southwest corner of Washington has a 100-year-plus history, and the cranberry bogs remain a cherished asset of Grayland. Although the fruit has always existed here, it wasn’t until the late 1800s that it was cultivated as a crop. While exploring the coastal stretches of Southwest Washington, a visitor from Massachusetts, Anthony Chabot, discovered native cranberries growing in bogs and flooded fields that reminded him of Cape Cod. Then, in 1912, Ed Benn planted Grayland’s first crop, convinced that the peat soil here could successfully cultivate commercial cranberries. Some of those vines still exist.

Today, 99 percent of local growers are part of an Ocean Spray cooperative—a farmer-owned company of 700 families across North America. Grayland is also home to the famous Furford picker, a machine named after its inventor that harvests and prunes the cranberry crop.

Leslie Eichner, executive director of the Westport Grayland Chamber of Commerce, explained that all but two farmers here use the labor-intensive dry-harvesting method, since they have no huge water source except for saltwater. On the other hand, cranberry farmers in Long Beach use water harvesting, thanks to their proximity to lakes.

In Grayland, Wendy Hatton and her husband, Don, have been cranberry farming for more than thirty years. Their first harvest took place in 1972, and they have greatly expanded since then. Both of their sons 22 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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farm to table

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 23

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Father-son duo Matt, left, and Mike Reichenberger farm cranberries in Grayland, as their family has done for several generations. Mike works on Furford cranberry pickers at the farm. Matt harvests some cranberries using an antique wooden cranberry scooper that he dates to the 1930s; the scooper has since been replaced with more efficient technology.

are now growers, too, and they own just over 50 acres. The oldest vines on their property date back to the 1930s.

Hatton’s parents always farmed in some manner, so when they saw an ad in the Aberdeen paper for a home swap, they decided to move the family into a teeny cabin set in the midst of prime farmland. Although Hatton said the job’s “not for everybody,” she said she got into the cranberry business because “I had farming experience. I could do it. I liked it.” She said it requires an incredible amount of work, but noted, “If you’re able to do it yourself, you can make a good living.”

Hatton explained that hundreds of cranberry varieties exist, and once planted, it takes about five years to get a crop. Despite all the rules and regulations, she appreciates that cranberry farming allows her family to work when they want. And although they haven’t gotten there quite yet, she and her husband remain hopeful that—one day—they’ll be able to take off several months each winter.

Hatton said summer months can be nearly as critical as harvest, as this is the time when the crops need “babysitting” and regular watering sessions, just like any garden. This rings especially true for this past summer, she said, which proved particularly dry.

Festival Traditions Live On This year, the annual Cranberry Harvest Festival takes place October 13-14, but folks can enjoy the tasty, antioxidant-rich 24 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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“superfood” all season long. Eichner, once a grower herself, became the festival organizer in 2013. Although the anticipated event reaches its twenty-fifth year this fall, Eichner described it as a delightfully “homespun” production that hasn’t evolved much over time.

The festival’s turnout depends on the forecast, since the second weekend in October sometimes brings bad weather like sideways rain blowing away the tents of hardy outdoor vendors.

Thankfully, there’s plenty of indoor space, too. The festival occurs with cranberry harvest in full swing, meaning visitors get to drive through the bogs and watch the action up close.

Guided bus tours allow visitors to talk to farmers, watch them harvest and stroll through their warehouses.

Other festival highlights include an eating contest for kids and adults, the 5K and 10K “Jog the Bog and Beach” and a competition to determine the biggest berry grown by local farmers. On Saturday evening at dusk, illuminated participants join the Firefly Parade. And of course, there’s the muchanticipated Cranberry Cook-off, with categories ranging from main courses and condiments to breads and desserts. “Some people absolutely won’t give over their recipes,” Eichner said, recalling a particularly delectable standout—cranberry clam fritters, served with a buttery sauce.

“It’s the people coming in and being so interested in something specific to the region,” Eichner said of the festival.

“It makes me happy.”

farm to table Farro Salad with Cranberry Vinaigrette.

Farro Salad with Cranberry Vinaigrette SEATTLE / Rider David Nichols SERVES 4 2 cups farro 1 large sweet potato, cubed 4 tablespoons crumbled feta 4 tablespoons toasted pepitas 2 cups pickled cranberries 1 head broccoli ½ cup torn mint

Washington Recipes

Cranberry Concoctions Pumpkin Cheesecake with Gingersnap Crust & Cranberry Compote SEATTLE / Tilth Maria Hines and Joel Panlilio

YIELDS ONE 9-INCH CHEESECAKE FOR COMPOTE 2 cups cranberries (fresh or frozen, not canned) 1 orange ½ cup orange juice ½ cup sugar ½ cup maple syrup 1 1-inch piece of ginger, peeled and sliced into 4 big chunks 1 pinch of salt FOR CRUST 12 ounces ginger snap cookies 2 tablespoons brown sugar 1 teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ cup unsalted butter, melted FOR FILLING 3 8-ounce packages of cream cheese, softened and room temperature 1 ¼ cup sugar 1 cup canned pumpkin purée 2 teaspoons vanilla extract ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon ⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg ⅛ teaspoon ground cloves 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 3 whole eggs 1 egg yolk 1 pinch salt FOR COMPOTE Using a microplane, zest the orange. Set zest aside. Juice the orange and top off with more orange juice to get ½ cup of juice. Combine

cranberries, orange zest, orange juice, sugar, maple syrup, ginger and salt in a heavybottom sauce pot. Bring to a boil and turn down to medium-low heat until cranberries start to soften and pop.

FOR CRUST Break ginger snap cookies into small pieces and place in a food processor. Pulse until you get a crumb-like texture. Add ground spices and pulse to incorporate.

In a medium bowl, mix crumbs and melted butter. Press the mixture flat onto the bottom of a springform pan. Set aside.

FOR FILLING Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Using an electric mixer, beat cream cheese and sugar in a bowl on low speed until smooth. Add pumpkin purée and beat until combined. Add vanilla extract and flour to the mixture and stir to combine. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing until each one is incorporated before adding the next one. Do the same with the egg yolk.

Place the springform pan with the gingersnap crust on a rimmed baking sheet.

Pour filling on top of crust and spread evenly. Place it in the oven and turn down temperature to 325 degrees. Bake for 1 hour and 45 minutes without opening oven door.

Next, turn off the heat and leave cheesecake in for 20 more minutes.

Pull cheesecake out and let cool completely on a cooling rack. After it has completely cooled, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate to set, about 4 to 6 hours. After cooling and slicing, serve with cranberry compote.

FOR CRANBERRY VINAIGRETTE 1 cup picked cilantro leaves 4 tablespoons dried cranberries 1 tablespoons Dijon mustard Juice of 4 limes 1 teaspoon chili flake ½ cup olive oil Salt and pepper FOR PICKLED CRANBERRIES 2 cups fresh cranberries 1 cup red wine vinegar 1 cup water 1 teaspoon black peppercorns 1 cinnamon stick Cook farro in boiling salted water until tender. Cool down and set aside until ready to use. Toss broccoli in olive oil and place on medium-high heat grill and cook for about 5 to 6 minutes. Cube sweet potato, toss in olive oil and bake in 350-degree oven for 14 to 17 minutes until tender. In a sauté pan, toast pepitas with 2 tablespoons of olive oil until golden brown.

In a large bowl, mix farro with the roasted vegetables. Toss with cranberry vinaigrette, and place in large serving bowl. Top with crumbled feta, toasted pepitas and torn mint.

FOR CRANBERRY VINAIGRETTE Chop cilantro and dried cranberries and place in mixing bowl. Add mustard, lime juice, chili flake, salt and pepper, slowly whisk in olive oil until emulsified. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.

FOR PICKLED CRANBERRIES Boil all liquid, pour over fresh cranberries and let sit for three hours before using. You can make ahead and store in the fridge up to weeks ahead.

MORE ONLINE

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

Get cooking with more recipes at www.1889mag.com/recipes

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 25

home + design

“My approach is not to lose track of what feels inspiring and functional. I try to always bring those two together.”

Small Wonders Washington designers merge form and function in innovative tiny homes written by Melissa Dalton

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— Abel Zyl

Photos: Abel Zyl

home + design

FROM LEFT The Damselfly has thirteen windows and pale cabinetry. The roof looks like a breaking wave.

Olympia: Modern engineering and old-school craft unite Twelve years ago, Abel Zyl was walking in his Olympia neighborhood when he saw an 84-square-foot house parked in a backyard. Its owner, he learned, was Dee Williams, a local advocate for minimalist living and the tiny house movement, who had designed and built the abode herself. When Zyl bumped into Williams at the food co-op some time later, he told her she had inspired him. “I ran into Dee, and I mentioned that I kind of wanted to build my own tiny house,” Zyl recalled.

“She was like, ‘Kind of want to? You should do it.’” So, he did.

The small-scale construction project presented a fun creative challenge to Zyl, who had previously worked as an electrician and house remodeler and also studied boat building in college. He pieced together his first design from an array of found materials—including salvaged wood, the remnants of his senior year boat project and objects picked up in dumpster dives. “I’ve always had an eye for free piles,” Zyl said. “My friends would laugh because I can spot a free pile from a mile away.” With its cedar shingles and red-framed windows, his first house looks like a simple cottage, but there are hints of the aesthetic that he would hone for future tiny house commissions, including a handmade “moon window” and arched roofline.

That first project still sits on his property, a 34-acre farm outside Olympia that hosts his workshop. There, he’s built around thirty tiny homes under the company name Zyl Vardos. Each design is as unique as its owner, yet still evokes

his distinct style. It starts with a pencil sketch that gets refined via 3D-modeling software. The software enables him to “snap the lines of the house off the pencil sketch,” he said. He then uses a CNC (computer numeric control) machine to create patterns and cut parts for his imaginative shapes. “Because I use a CNC and a computer to design, I can make parts of any shape. They give me this really great creative flexibility,” he said.

He then builds many components by hand, from the doors and windows to porch lanterns and wood dryer vents.

His work has been called “whimsical” and “like something from a fairytale.” While those are apt descriptors, his designs always combine artistic flourish with practicality. Take the Damselfly, a home built in 2017. For it, he composed a roofline that appears as two pieces cascading over each other, like a breaking wave. Thirteen handcrafted windows, including a curved design over the kitchen sink, let in lots of natural light, and the pale-colored cabinetry, walls and cork floor don’t clutter the eye. Features like hidden drawers and cubbies in the stair tread, and a sliding Shoji screen door at the bathroom, save space. “My approach is not to lose track of what feels inspiring and functional,” Zyl said. “I try to always bring those two together.”

Much of his inspiration comes from his clients, whom he refers to as “co-authors” in the design/build process. “It’s always about people,” he said. “I’ve been pretty fortunate and met a lot of amazing people.”

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 27

Photos: Modern Wagon

Wenatchee: An adventure wagon takes a Washington couple to their new life If you visited a national park out west last summer, you might have seen Duff Bangs and Ashley Rodgers. The couple took an epic 11,000-mile road trip all over the western half of the U.S., hitting as many national parks as possible over three months. Starting in Seattle, they drove east to Chicago, then backtracked through the Grand Tetons and Yellowstone, dropping as far south as Zion and Joshua Tree. What made them stand out from other cars on the road? They towed their 28-foot-long, 13,000-pound tiny home, aptly dubbed the “Adventure Wagon,” the whole way.

The road trip was a reset for the Seattleites. “We were just ready for a change,” Bangs said. “We were ready for that next step and we also wanted to do some travelling.” Early in 2017, the couple sold their city condo, then designed and built the tiny house as a prototype for their company, Modern Wagon. “As an architect, I thought it would be a great design project,” Bangs said.

From the start, they weren’t interested in allowing the notion of tiny to dictate the home’s interior. “It seems like a lot of tiny homes are traditionally a home shrunk down into a smaller space,” Bangs said. “So, I feel like all the pieces get shrunk with that as well, such as the sink and appliances. Something like the bathroom becomes a very tight space.” Their approach was different. “It was an exercise in picking out the amenities that were most important to us and maximizing those spaces,” he said, “then letting the envelope and form of the tiny home evolve around that.” To that end, the couple identified priorities, such as a full-sized bathtub, washer/dryer, plenty of countertops for meal prep, and an open floor so Rodgers can roll out her yoga mat. Then the different areas were laid out for ideal weight distribution along the trailer bed.

Final tweaks ensured the home achieves the modern look the couple prefers and still feels roomy in its 270 square feet. Slanted 28 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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FROM TOP The Adventure Wagon has a sleeping loft over the couch. The 270-square-foot Adventure Wagon was home base for an 11,000-mile road trip.

front and rear walls cut a sharp silhouette and also increase headroom, most importantly where the sleeping loft is stacked over the couch. “We wanted to be able to sit up [in bed] and not hit our head on the ceiling,” Bangs said. They lined the exterior and roof with charcoal standing-seam metal, which provides a nice contrast to the white aluminum plastic composite siding.

Large windows and an interior palette of bamboo floors and light birch plywood further visually expand the space.

After logging many miles on the open road, the couple now calls Wenatchee home, where Rodgers is a social worker and Bangs leads his architecture firm modFORM. For it, he’s been tapped to design a few compact Detached Accessory Dwelling Units (DADUs). “They’re not on wheels but it’s a very similar design exercise,” he said. “It really allowed me to bend my whole design genre.”

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home + design

DIY: Use Wall Stencils for Eye-Catching Accents WE COULDN’T HELP but admire the striking artwork on the kitchen cabinets in Bangs and Rodgers’ tiny home.

It was painted by a friend of theirs, as a “celebration of our travels and our relationship,” said Bangs, who also likes how it adds a splash of color to the monochromatic interior. Try wall stencils for an equally artistic—and affordable—decorative accent, following the simple guidelines below. for the background and the stencil for a more subtle appearance. Basic wall paint will work for this project, though it’s also possible to experiment with different decorative effects, such as using gold paint, to make the overall design shimmer.

1 PICK A PATTERN

Wall stencils are fantastic for their versatility, so choose any pattern that resonates. Think about how the scale of the design will appear with repetition, and whether the size and repetition works with the rest of the room’s décor.

2

PREPARE THE WALL SURFACE

Apply the base coat to the wall. Tape off the area to be stenciled with painter’s tape, protecting trim, floor, and ceiling. Starting at the ceiling line, attach the stencil to the surface with painter’s tape, making sure it’s flat and the design is level.

CHOOSE COLORS AND EFFECTS

With stencils, you’re not confined to the colorways found in wallpaper and can custom match the stencil paint to the existing color palette in the room. Try a dramatic contrast and layer a light pattern over a dark color. Or, choose similar shades

4

PAINT AND REPEAT

Paint using a stencil brush or roller, making sure to monitor the amount of paint applied. Do not allow paint to get beneath the surface of the stencil, either from an overloaded brush or raised template, as that can blur the edges of the final design. Once the first image is applied, carefully remove the stencil and position it in the next open spot, using the registration marks.

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home + design

Out of the Ordinary Home Décor The Dish Side Table from Grain, a design studio located on Bainbridge Island, is made from FSC-certified American ash in the Pacific Northwest.

Perch your drink, or your bum, on its scooped tabletop, as it doubles as a stool in a pinch.

www.workshop-thegranite.com

Whether it’s a wall hanging or pillow, Katherine Entis of Soft Century specializes in textiles that reveal a unique perspective.

We especially like the knit paintings, which are “inspired by landscapes real and imagined,” and handwoven from top-notch yarn in her Portland atelier.

Kennett Mohrman

The Epoca Vase looks equally good whether it’s holding flowers or displayed on open shelves.

Designed and made by The Granite, a workshop in Portland, the unglazed matte white exterior is hand-painted with an assortment of colored shapes for a fresh and modern take on the average vase.

Charlie Schuck

www.graindesign.com

www.softcenturydesign.com

Got stacks of magazines on the floor by the couch? Seattle-based Fruit Super has created the perfect solution: the sleek, minimal Print Rack. The U-shaped body comes in either white or forest green powdercoated metal, with a cork base and solid wood handle. Consider the clutter conquered. www.fruitsuper.com

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 31

mind + body

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Philip Milliman pole vaults during a practice. The Millimans participate in Senior Games track and field.

Charles Milliman gets ready to attempt a jump.

Keeping It in the Family Father-son pole-vaulting duo aim to inspire written by Viki Eierdam

A POLE VAULTER since high school, Philip Milliman heard about the Washington Senior Games in 2003. He and his father, Charles, have attended ever since. In 2017, at the ages of 66 and 84 respectively, they took gold in their age categories for pole vaulting at the National Senior Games in Birmingham, Alabama.

Charles also walked away with a gold in the high jump.

Charles Milliman is pragmatic about it all. A retired minister who felt a call to ministry when he was working for Boeing in the 1960s, he competes in six track-and-field categories.

“I just do it within my own ability. I enjoy competition but it’s mostly to see what I can do,” he said. “Some events I come in seventh or eighth place. It’s not the winning. It’s the finding out what I can do.”

He took up endurance running on his 78th birthday, running three marathons in three days to equal his age and donating money raised to the Boys & Girls Clubs of the Olympic Peninsula. He repeated the endurance goal for his 80th birthday and his 85th, donating money to charities each time.

The senior Milliman has been training for marathons since he was 39. He found he could lose his mind in running, and 32 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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its ability to drastically reduce stress levels has kept him a fan ever since. With sixty-seven marathons under his belt, he’s still finishing in under seven hours.

“The main benefit (of staying active) is the wholeness of life,” he said. “You can do more at an older age when you’re physically, spiritually and mentally fit.”

As a volunteer pole vaulting coach at Sequim High School, Philip Milliman’s enthusiasm for physical activity is equally inspiring.

“In some ways, Dad and I aren’t normal, but we think of ourselves that way,” he said. “We strongly believe in bringing others along for the ride, being excited about it, moving until you drop. It’s never about beating someone else. It’s about beating yourself or being the best you can.”

Philip Milliman remembers that after church on Sundays when he was growing up, his folks would suggest a hike in the mountains instead of the less active pursuits his friends were engaged in. Today they invite others to hike portions of the 130mile Olympic Discovery Trail as they complete it in segments.

It seems to be a Milliman motto: “I’m never comfortable just sitting down,” Philip said.

mind + body

Charles Milliman Pole vault, 100-meter dash, 800-meter dash, high jump, long jump, standing long jump Age: 85 Born: Auburn, Indiana Residence: Sequim, Washington

Photos: George Stenberg

WORKOUT “I have no strict regimen.

If I register for a race, I put in more time for training.

I started running and got in the habit of it and kept it up. I run about every day except Sundays. As a retired minister, I don’t run on Sundays. I’m aware of alternate distance and intensity workouts but I just go out and run most of the time.”

NUTRITION

“In some ways, Dad and I aren’t normal, but we think of ourselves that way. We strongly believe in bringing others along for the ride, being excited about it, moving until you drop. It’s never about beating someone else.

It’s about beating yourself or being the best you can.”

“If I’m training for ultradistance, like my birthday when I ran 85 miles last November, I eat a boiled potato every hour. But any special stuff? No, I just eat regular foods. My wife’s a good cook. We don’t eat veggies everyday or fish once a week but we eat good meals. Not a lot of desserts.

We couldn’t afford them when we were younger so I never got in the habit.”

INSPIRATIONS “I have six points I share with people of why I’m still running. 1) I believe in God. 2) I have a good family support. We all do stuff together. 3) I don’t drink alcohol or smoke. 4) I exercise. 5) I have a good doctor. 6) I drink a lot of water.”

Philip Milliman

Pole vault and high jump Age: 67 Born: Pasco, Washington Residence: Sequim, Washington

WORKOUT Philip uses pickleball when he can for conditioning. He attends a Warrior Fitness program twice weekly at a local gym. Custom training includes several sets of upper body drills and swing drills such as leg swings, overhead push, high bar inversion drills, left leg pendulum drill and right knee drive drill. He also trains with the high school track kids he helps coach at Sequim High School.

NUTRITION Like father, like son. Philip thanks his wife, Rosaura, for his eating plan. Organics make up 80 to 90 percent of their diet, such as chicken, fish, fruits and vegetables. He’s an avid tea drinker and supplements with smoothies to ensure optimal produce intake.

INSPIRATIONS “Our family’s always been pretty active physically. My dad and mom are great inspirations.” Philip stays engaged with backpacking, skiing, running and organizing church activities like bicycling. His sister and brother-in-law are also Spartan racers. “I believe by keeping moving, the blood flows to the places that need healing.”

— Philip Milliman OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 33

artist in residence

Foraging For Jewelry Collecting sea glass goes from a hobby to a full-time business at West Coast Sea Glass written by Lauren Kramer

THERE’S SOMETHING DELICIOUSLY peaceful about wandering along a lonely beach, feeling the wind in your hair and the sand beneath your feet. One Olympic Peninsula entrepreneur took her love of beach wandering and turned it into a successful career.

Mary Beth Beuke, 55, had been searching the sand for sea glass since the age of 6, collecting fragments of glass whose sharp edges had been caressed and softened by water and time. “I just love being by the shore and walking, so my sea glass collection naturally fell into place,” she said. Another great love was crafting and making jewelry. One day she included a piece of sea glass in her jewelry and the result caught many admiring glances. Orders from her friends for more pieces of jewelry came flooding in, and before she knew it, Beuke was at the helm of West Coast Sea Glass, now a successful company selling sea glass jewelry online and in galleries all over the United States, Canada, Britain, the Bahamas and Australia.

34 1889 WASHINGTONS’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER

2018

artist in residence

After two decades of research, Beuke is an expert in identifying the glass in her collection. “History is really important in a sea glass collection, and that’s defined by color,” she said. “Glass was manufactured in many different colors 100 years ago than it is today, and back then the most common bottle colors in the U.S. were clear, brown and forest or emerald green. I consider these rarer colors to be of more value, and in my jewelry I only use the best pieces.”

There’s lots of detective work in sea-glass collecting and Beuke loves the thrill of finding something rare and identifying where it came from. One time she found a piece of glass belonging to an early-1900s walking cane. “For me, this becomes a process of glass archaeology and historical investigating,” she said. “It’s not just a broken piece of a 1970s bottle.”

Beuke has an office in the Olympic Peninsula and a studio in Tacoma. Together with Teresa Crecelius and Lindsay Furber—a longtime friend with whom she co-founded West Coast Sea Glass—she makes rings, earrings, necklaces, bracelets, cufflinks and a few pieces of home décor.

Each piece of jewelry created by the three women is accompanied by a card indicating when and where the sea glass was found, and any information about its historical relevance. Her customers love knowing pertinent information about their sea glass jewelry, and she often fields requests for a piece of jewelry made with sea glass from a particular beach or coastline. Sometimes customers will find sea glass on a beach during a vacation and mail it to her, requesting she use it in a piece of unique jewelry as a memento of their trip.

Over the course of her life, Beuke has amassed one of the world’s largest and rarest collections of sea glass fragments. She displays them during the lectures she delivers at museums and libraries, educating people about their origins. She keeps her jewelry business collection separate from her personal collection.

These days, however, the more historical pieces of sea glass are becoming increasingly hard to find. “It’s been four years since I found anything of historical significance in the U.S.,” she said with a tinge of regret in her voice. “The really rare pieces are either buried at sea or they’ve been found, and some of the best places on the planet that used to have rare sea glass forty years ago just don’t have it anymore.”

In terms of sea glass jewelry, that means making twelve pairs of blue earrings, requiring twenty-four pieces of sea glass, can

FROM TOP Mary Beth Beuke heads West Coast Sea Glass.

She creates sea glass rings, as well as other jewelry with the glass.

be next to impossible. “We have to rely on the pieces we have here, rather than foraging for new pieces,” she explained. “And some colors we simply can no longer provide, like aqua blue, which is much rarer than a green piece of sea glass.”

On a hot day in July, Beuke headed to her silver studio to complete a five-piece cobalt blue bracelet made of sea glass from old medicine bottles. A silversmith and photographer by trade, she has effortlessly merged her talents, creating stunning pieces of art in both her jewelry and photography. Home is a twenty-second walk from the beach, so she gets to indulge her love of beach wandering almost daily.

“It’s been such a joy connecting with people over sea glass,” she said. “I truly have the best job in the world.”

“History is really important in a sea glass collection, and that’s defined by color. Glass was manufactured in many different colors 100 years ago than it is today. … I consider these rarer colors to be of more value, and in my jewelry I only use the best pieces.”

— Mary Beth Beuke, of West Coast Sea Glass OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 35

STARTUP 38 WHAT’S GOING UP 40 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 41 MY WORKSPACE 42 GAME CHANGER 44

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startup

Rover connects pet owners with pet sitters and dog-walkers.

Friends for Fido

How Rover went from an idea to a coast-to-coast platform connecting pets and caregivers written by Chad Walsh

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startup

THE MOTHER-OF-INVENTION story is such a common one for tech startups that it’s almost become a trope. Take Reed Hastings, who got fed up with late fees from video rental stores and eventually founded Netflix, the order-bymail subscription DVD rental company turned streamingcontent juggernaut. Founder sees annoying problem.

Founder builds better mousetrap to eliminate said problem.

Founder’s nascent company changes the everyday lives of millions of Americans.

That’s how Rover, the Seattle-based website that facilitates relationships between pet owners and pet sitters and walkers, was born. In the mid-aughts, Greg Gottesman had to leave Seattle and needed someone to look after his yellow lab, Ruby Tuesday. Like millions of Americans, he turned to his local kennel to look after his beloved pet and went on his way.

But things were amiss when he returned home. When he picked up Ruby Tuesday, the dog was covered in scratches. Worse, the pet had come down with a bad case of kennel cough. Needless to say, the dog was in much worse shape when Gottesman picked her up than when he dropped her off.

Gottesman’s lightbulb moment came when his then-9year-old daughter chimed in, saying that if someone offered to pay her, she’d gladly look after pets.

The story goes that Gottesman ran with his daughter’s idea, unrolling Rover, the dog-sitting (and cat-sitting) and dog-walking company, at Seattle’s Startup Week in 2011, where Gottesman and his business partners took home the event’s top prize.

Seven years later, Rover now contracts with 200,000 pet sitters and walkers in 14,000 cities across the United States, from tiny dog-happy towns like Sun Valley, Idaho, to large sprawling metropolises like Seattle and San Francisco.

“Rover’s mission is to bring the joy of pet companionship to every responsible person in the U.S.—whether they work long hours, travel frequently or don’t have a local network of family and friends to help out with care,” said Pete Bahrenburg, a spokesman for Rover.

Here’s how it works. Rover is in many ways a community message board, where pet owners in need of assistance can connect to those sitters and walkers who have downtime and are looking for extra cash.

Think of it like a cross between Uber and Tinder. You search for pet sitters in your area and swipe right until you find one you trust. Once you’ve settled on one, you can order a bespoke roster of services that cater to your pet’s needs.

Bahrenburg said prospective pet owners should place a great deal of faith in how Rover operates. Indeed, all the petsitters who apply to house sit or walk dogs are run through a rigorous screening process prior to coming into contact with anyone’s pet.

“We have very high standards for our sitters and dog walkers,” Bahrenburg said, noting the company accepts fewer

“Rover’s mission is to bring the joy of pet companionship to every responsible person in the U.S.—whether they work long hours, travel frequently or don’t have a local network of family and friends to help out with care.”

— Pete Bahrenburg, Rover spokesman than 20 percent of those who apply to contract with them. “Our team reviews each sitter and dog-walker profile submission with a focus on dog safety. Profiles detail a prospective sitter or dog walker’s experience and background, as well as photos, references and third-party verifications.” Each new sitter and dog walker also completes a full background check processed

by Checkr, itself another tech startup.

While companies like ride-share programs create an environment where prices can rapidly rise during peak times, Rover allows pet owners and pet sitters the ability to haggle over the costs of services. “Pet sitters and dog walkers can set and adjust the services and rates they offer at any time by editing their user profile at rover.com or on the Rover app,” Bahrenburg said. “Sitters can always edit their rate as needed during conversations with pet parents, allowing them to offer custom rates for the services provided. For instance, sitters and walkers may offer a discount for multiple-pet households or raise rates for dog boarding, house sitting and drop-in visits throughout the holiday season.”

And Rover’s services don’t only apply just to dogs.

“While we are ‘The Dog People,’ Rover isn’t just for dogs,” Bahrenburg said. “Cat drop-ins are one of the fastest growing segments of our business. Sitters on Rover have looked after cats, birds, horses, pigs and even lizards and fish.”

So go ahead and plan that next family trip with the knowledge that you don’t need to leave your dog at the kennel for two to three weeks at a time. Indeed, you can have a oneperson kennel come to you.

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what’s going up?

Grab a Glass New wine-tasting options around the state written by Sheila G. Miller

Barrels Wine Bar, on Mercer Island, offers forty wines by the glass.

DELILLE CELLARS & SPARKMAN CELLARS

DOUBLE CANYON WINERY

DeLille Cellars and Sparkman Cellars announced a plan in late May to relocate their tasting rooms, production facilities and event spaces to a former Redhook Brewery site in Woodinville. According to The Seattle Times, the 20-acre site, across Northeast 145th Street from Chateau Ste. Michelle, will also house the Teatro ZinZanni, a dinner show. A restaurant is also expected to open on the site.

In West Richland, Double Canyon Winery in July opened a tasting room where visitors can try all its incredible cabernet sauvignon. The tasting room, a modern space with a tasting bar and tables, offers views of the barrel room and production area, as well as a patio with a fire pit and more views. The tasting room joins the winery, which opened its new facility in 2017, and a Seattle tasting room.

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2018

BARRELS WINE BAR In June, Mercer Island welcomed Barrels Wine Bar, a tasting room and wine shop. The shop offers forty different wines by the glass or bottles for purchase, as well as snacks. For the non-wine fans, there are also four diverse beers on tap, and can and bottle options as well. The shop offers daily wine tasting and opportunities to meet winemakers.

what i’m working on

What I’m Working On

The Doctor is In (Spokane) Dr. Darryl Potyk talks about the state of medical education interview by Kevin Max

IN 2016, the University of Washington reaffirmed its commitment to medical teaching in Eastern Washington. In connection with the private Gonzaga University in Spokane, the UW School of Medicine-Gonzaga University Regional Health Partnership program enrolled sixty students in its first year. We checked in with Dr. Darryl Potyk, the program’s chief of medical education, to talk about growth and the first two years.

Darryl Potyk is the chief of medical education at the UW School of Medicine-Gonzaga University Regional Health Partnership.

You started your role as the associate dean for the school a year ago. After your first year in the new med school, how would you rate the school’s success?

I think we’ve been very successful.

This is the first public-private partnership that the UW has engaged in. We came together for the greater good of the Spokane community. We have 120 students on this campus now, and we’re focused on getting them the best medical education.

it more clinically relevant to give students more time to focus on what area they want to spend their careers on. We have a couple of different rural clinical programs that have garnered national awards. Integrating humanities education with medical education has been another area of strength for us. Sometimes in this field, you can get wound up in data, but at the end of the day, doctoring comes down to people and relationships.

What is the competitive angle of this campus and this program?

We’re part of the bigger UW School of Medicine. We don’t really think of ourselves as competing with other campuses. We work collaboratively with UW. We’ve been here in Eastern Washington educating students in medicine for twenty-five years. One thing we’ve been able to do is reduce the [core] Foundations classes from two years to eighteen months. We compressed that time and made

What has the school’s presence meant for the Spokane community?

The community is behind medical education as a whole. In previous times, we were in a partnership with Washington State University and parted ways. There was some resentment around that. There are some people who still view this as more of a football game, yet it’s more important than the Apple Cup [the annual football meeting of rivals WSU and UW]. We’re at a tipping point

where we’re doing good things with research and clinical medicine, and I think the community supports that.

The program accepts sixty students each year. What do you see for the future growth of this program?

Expansion is on the horizon and important with the workforce needs in the Spokane area. At the same time, we’re scaling back the rate at which we expand. First, we need to figure out how to provide quality clinical experiences and clinical teaching resources before we can grow. We need to do that in a way that quality precedes expansion.

What do you want prospective students to know about this program?

I want people to know that we have been here for twenty-five years and are going to continue to be here. The UW School of Medicine is a costeffective model, and we are able to offer top-of-the-nation education at a great value.

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

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my workspace

Jocelyn Pride

My Workspace

Opening Eyes UnCruise creates experiences on small cruise ships written by Sheila G. Miller

Sue Rooney says she has the best job in the world. The director of guest adventures for UnCruise, a small ship adventure cruise company, just might be right. She designs the cruise experiences, whether it’s a wine and gastronomy cruise along the Columbia and Snake rivers or an experience in the Galapagos Islands. “I take a vision and then I put the puzzle pieces of that vision together,” she said.

Although cruises to Alaska are UnCruise’s bread and butter, ships can sail year round. So the company offers other cruises to places around the world—Mexico, Hawaii, Costa Rica, Panama, and right here in the Pacific Northwest. “We have people go on those Alaska cruises with us and then they’ll go to a place they wouldn’t go if they didn’t trust us,” Rooney said.

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2018

Rick Duval

my workspace

UnCruise Adventures

In 2019, UnCruise will morph its fall wine cruise into a wine and culinary experience. The cruise will still include winery partners, but now will also offer spirits, beer, fruit, hazelnuts, coffee … all the things that make Washington (and its neighbor to the south) great.

Rooney’s favorite cruise the company offers is one that runs along the ColumbiaSnake River system. “Sometimes that’s a complete shock to other people because it doesn’t have whales or glaciers,” she said. “But it does have magic and the unknown. People think they know what’s out there and we get to blow their minds. … We get to mix food and culinary and wine and history, which is riveting. It’s an adventure of the mind and the palate.”

“I live to connect,” Rooney said. “I live to watch people’s eyes fly open. It’s the perfect job for me.”

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

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game changer

Water From Wine A Washington farmer uses grapes for the greater good written by Corinne Whiting

SOMETIMES DOING GOOD simply takes thinking outside of the box—or barrel, as the case may be. In 2012, Pat Tucker—a Paterson, Washington, farmer for more than forty-three years—came up with a brilliant plan. He decided to use the 6-acre vineyard on his family farm to benefit nonprofits, specifically those already invested in international clean-water projects.

Situated in the Horse Heaven Hills region, just north of the Columbia River near the Oregon border, Water from Wine enjoys its placement between the esteemed Columbia Crest Winery and Chateau Ste. Michelle.

The organization focuses on water because, according to the World Health Organization, 2.5 billion people worldwide lack access to clean water and a simple toilet. Other stats indicate that 5 million people, mostly children under the age of 5, die from water-related illnesses each year, and collecting water takes up as many as 200 million hours a day, mainly by women and children. Water from Wine partners with organizations already working to end the global water crisis, like Seattlebased Water1st International.

For the initiative’s name, Tucker sought inspiration from The Bible, specifically John 2:1-11, in which Jesus first turned water into wine. Tucker decided to symbolically flip that phrase to describe his own team’s mission. In the fall of 2014, Tucker’s family, friends and community members gathered to harvest the first grapes. He reached out to longtime friend Charlie Hoppes of Fidelitas Winery to make the wine, and that first harvest yielded an impressive 984 cases of cabernet sauvignon.

Tucker, who was impressed by Water1st’s work, pledged 100 percent of the proceeds from each bottle sold.

Through this partnership, each case provides one family in Mozambique, Ethiopia, Bangladesh and Honduras with clean water and a toilet for life.

To date, supporters have bought 3,900 44 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

bottles of cabernet sauvignon, which has raised $117,000 and translates to 1,300 people now enjoying the basic human right of water.

So far, Water from Wine has released five varietals, including the most recent—a 2015 Red Mountain cabernet sauvignon. Another impressive stat— worldwide, 35 to 50 percent of water projects tend to fail within the first five years. However, not a single Water1st project has fallen through, thanks to meticulous monitoring and models built to last.

Tucker said marketing has proven the biggest hurdle. “We want to get the word out there to increase sales, thereby increasing the amount of money we donate to clean water projects, but it’s been a challenge,” he said. However, staunch support from the community— and uplifting results—provide more than enough inspiration to carry on with the cause. For the last couple of harvests, the organization has welcomed help from between 120 and 140 volunteers.

“The most fulfilling part of this endeavor has been donating the proceeds from our wine sales to organizations like Water1st,” Tucker said. “Knowing that all the hard work put into harvesting the grapes, getting the wine in the bottle and selling the wine means that more people around the world have access to clean water.”

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

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sip

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TRIPPING OVER

WASHINGTON WINE COUNTRY THE BEST WINE-TASTING EXPERIENCES AROUND THE STATE written by Viki Eierdam

NEARLY 950 WINERIES call the Evergreen State home. From the Puget Sound to Lake Chelan to Yakima Valley, Walla Walla Valley and the Columbia Gorge, Washington is prime for a circular road trip to fourteen American Viticultural Areas. From maritime to mountains and desert to Missoula Floods remnants, there is adventure, vistas, history and romance to be uncorked in nearly every barrel and bottle. Follow along as we share some mustsee wine spots and experiences that elevate wine tasting to wine travel.

Charity Burggraaf

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Fred Broomhall

Sarah Tanksley

Richard Duval

San Juan Cruises/Eric Creitz

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ISLAND TIME

Ease into island time on the short ferry ride from West Seattle to Vashon Island. Vashon Winery has been crafting boutique wines for more than thirty years and it’s one of the few places in the Northwest producing wine from Chasselas Doré, a white grape that hails from Switzerland mountain ranges. If Vashon is boutique, Maury Island Winery is nano, but, as they say, great things come in small packages. These estate-grown wines emphasize sense of place with Puget Sound pinot noir and pinot gris.

To round out the three-winery Vashon Island tour, check out Palouse Winery. Its 2017 “Pearlescent” cabernet franc rosé is a quintessential island wine, pairing seamlessly with seafood and light salads.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP San Juan Cruises offers wine cruises every Thursday in the summer. The Willows Inn foraged cuisine includes poached rhubarb with lemon thyme. Bordeaux Cellars has mountain views. Maury Island Winery is a tiny operation. Palouse Winery is the perfect island spot.

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

DUE NORTH

At just 9 square miles in size, Lummi Island rewards visitors with one of the finest dining experiences in the Northwest at The Willows Inn. A scant five-minute ferry ride from Bellingham, its forage-driven menu—headed by acclaimed chef Blaine Wetzel—and mesmerizing water views are the perfect accompaniment to a curated wine list with a strong Washington selection.

Make it an overnight at this circa 1912 inn so you can partake in a pampering breakfast.

If you find yourself in Bellingham in the summer, be sure to book an unWINEd on the Bay winetasting cruise. Since 2012, San Juan Cruises has offered this scenic and educational experience that showcases a different wine region from around the world every Thursday evening. Photos ops of Bellingham Bay are a bonus.

3

OVER THE CASCADES

The Bavarian town of Leavenworth supports a healthy selection of tasting rooms along its main drag, but a short drive out of town affords its own surprises. Located completely off the power grid, Boudreaux Cellars highlights amazing mountain views deep in the idyllic Cascade Mountains, and the 200-barrel cellar takes advantage of consistent temperatures found only underground. Icicle Ridge Winery has two tasting rooms in town but, for guided wine hikes that end with lunch and a wine pairing, venture out to its 5,000 square-foot log home winery.

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WHIRLYBIRDS & BUBBLES

Established as an AVA in 2009, Lake Chelan already counts more than thirty wineries, the majority of which surround its picturesque lake.

The perfect way to take in all this lush scenery is a Lake Chelan Wine Valley tour aboard Lake Chelan Helicopters. Six separate wineries can accommodate a helicopter landing, including Rio Vista Wines, which hosts a summer concert series, and Tsillan Cellars, an Italianthemed winery complete with 80,000 pounds of Italian marble stone and on-site Sorrento’s Ristorante.

Focused on sparkling wine, KARMA Vineyards and its underground wine cave is a notto-be-missed stop while in Chelan.

With its estate grapes, KARMA invests in the traditional French method of creating sparkling wine and fashions a brut, brut de brut and a rosé style.

5

COLUMBIA VALLEY

Stone, rock, exposed beams, slate and hardwood are the materials used to create a menu of overnight accommodations at Cave B Inn & Spa Resort. A working farm that affords panoramic Columbia River views from its basalt cliff location, Cave B Estate Winery is one of the many on-site treats here. Drawing from more than 100 acres under vine, Cave B is part of the Ancient Lakes AVA. In the main lodge, Tendrils Restaurant thoughtfully pairs estate wines with locally focused cuisine.

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Tsillan Cellars

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LEADING THE PACK

Better known as the hops-growing capital of the U.S., Yakima Valley was the first AVA in Washington. Unique wine experiences and some of the highest-rated wines in Washington’s winemaking history can be found here.

Care to follow up a little rock climbing with wine tasting? Wilridge Vineyard is a recreational vineyard where guests can picnic, enjoy scheduled yoga, and also rappel from Andesite rock cliffs and hike, bike or horseback ride Cowiche Canyon’s Upland Trails.

Continuing the horse theme, Cherry Wood Bed Breakfast & Barn in Zillah offers hay wagon winery tours. By night, Cherry Wood is a glamper’s dream with decked out teepees and open-air soaking tubs, but a day of traipsing around four wineries in their “cowboy limo” is the plush life.

If you’re looking for views for days, Col Solare is the spot. Built on Red Mountain, guests relish views of the Yakima River, Col Solare’s fan-shaped vineyard and Mount Adams and the Horse Heaven Hills in the distance. Symmetry and beauty are found in the wines and mimicked in the architectural details.

In Prosser, Walter Clore Wine & Culinary Center aims to take visitors on a trip through Yakima Valley wine country in one stop. Highlights include views of the Yakima River, a different Washington AVA featured on the center’s tasting room lineup each month, a wine-driven small bites menu and a host of regularly scheduled tasting events.

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

SO MANY WINERIES, SO LITTLE TIME Here are more recommendations for top stops along the diverse landscape of Washington wine country.

Ste. Michelle Wine Estates

YAKIMA VALLEY Hedges Family Estate: A Frenchstyle chateau in the middle of Red Mountain with a must-see champagne room.

Prosser’s Vintner’s Village: Nine wineries, one tasting room and one wine bar comprise this walkable wine-driven development.

Yakima Valley Visitor Information Center: Visitors can purchase Yakima Valley wine, beer and cider and sample a rotating array of local wines.

7

Pixelsoft Films

Jumping Rocks Inc.

COLUMBIA VALLEY Columbia Gardens Wine Village: At the confluence of the Columbia, Snake and Yakima rivers sits the Port of Kennewick and its newest venture. Bartholomew Winery and Palencia Wine Company are the first tenants in this boutique winery concept.

WALLA WALLA Sleight of Hand Cellars: A fun, music-centric tasting room with vinyl spinning in the background.

GO EAST, YOUNG MAN

Walla Walla’s Abeja Winery is situated on 38 acres of gardens, lawns, creeks and vineyards. Its inn is anchored by a stunning, turn-of-thecentury farmstead where original outbuildings have been restored to luxurious guest accommodations. This appointment-only winery is steeped in dramatic history and capped off by some of the most premium wines in Washington.

Long Shadows Vintners and Foundry Vineyards have two things in common— beautifully crafted wines and thought-provoking art. The modern tasting room of Long Shadows displays Chihuly glass sculptures, and wines are a collective of five internationally acclaimed vintners. Choose from a 60-minute Portfolio Tasting or 90-minute Inside Story Tasting, both by reservation only. Also an art gallery, Foundry Vineyards holds tastings in a sleek space surrounded by rotating fine art pieces.

Visitors are encouraged to bring picnics and unwind in the outdoor sculpture garden.

Set in a circa 1915 schoolhouse, L’Ecole No 41 is simultaneously a unique tasting experience and story. For a deep dive, sign up for a Reserve Tour and Tasting, where guests are immersed in the history of L’Ecole through words, a walking tour and library wines.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Lake Chelan Helicopters offers wine tours. Tsillan Cellars is an Italian-themed winery near Lake Chelan. Col Solare’s vineyard is in the shape of a fan. Walter Clore Wine & Culinary Center educates the wine-loving public. Abeja Winery has guest accommodations.

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

Pepper Bridge Winery: A food & wine pairing class, complete with a chef-led tasting of small dishes.

Northstar Winery: Offering a blending experience capped off with a custom label.

WOODINVILLE Novelty Hill-Januik: An ultramodern winery with floor-toceiling windows that overlook barrel and fermentation tanks.

Chateau Ste Michelle: The newly remodeled visitor’s center offers multiple guest experiences and is ideal for picnics on the lawn.

Two Vintners: This industrial winery is a hit with parents because of the playroom behind the tasting room’s curtain.

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If tiny-house living is calling your name, Alexandria Nicole Cellars at Destiny Ridge has four where guests can overnight. For example, Jet Black is a blend of New York art gallery and Northwest upcycling complete with a repurposed fermentation tank that dispenses your choice of red or white wine from convenient kegs, a roll-up garage door that adds outdoor square footage and a bedroom oriented to greet the day with vineyard and Columbia Gorge views.

Less than two hours west from Paterson is Underwood Mountain, where Hawkins Cellars takes full advantage of its hard-fought location with more dazzling Gorge views and Mount Hood in the distance.

Croquet and bocce ball encourage guests to linger and hear the story of how winemaker Thane Hawkins made the move from animation to fermentation.

Skamania Lodge is celebrating its twenty-fifth anniversary throughout 2018. An emphasis on Columbia Gorge wines is the sip du jour as guests look over the breathtaking National Scenic Area. Skamania also offers a selection of wines in the onsite Waterleaf Spa and wine-infused lotions, scrubs and massage oils for spa treatments.

Patrik Argast

WESTWARD HO!

Emily Maze

8

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SOUTHWEST WASHINGTON

Take in views of the long-awaited Grant Street Pier, casting its nautical silhouette 90 feet out over the Columbia River, while swirling a glass of Alexandria Nicole Bohemian Blend or Terra Blanca cabernet sauvignon at WildFin American Grill. Located in the new Waterfront Vancouver development, this locavorecentric eatery boasts a “barrel to bar” program featuring Washington wines on tap.

Twenty minutes up I-5, it’s time for a sweet treat. Gary Gougér, winemaker at Gougér Cellars, has figured out how to remove the alcohol from his wines and, with no added sugar, crafts such tempting flavors of wine ice cream as zinfandel chocolate chip, muscat with lemon lime zest, muscat with toasted coconut and muscat with berries.

A collaboration between Chelatchie Prairie Railroad and Moulton Falls Winery, the Wine Train runs down the tracks from May through November. Purchase train tickets and wine at Moulton Falls, board the 1929 steam locomotive and enjoy a 7-mile excursion as it passes through a 330-foot solid rock tunnel.

AT LEFT Gougér Cellars sells wine and wine ice cream. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Hawkins Cellars has Mount Hood views. The Bramble Bump at JM Cellars has an arboretum, as well as a wine library and barrel room. Charles Smith Wines Jet City is in a defunct Dr. Pepper bottling plant. Skamania Lodge celebrates its anniversary with Columbia Gorge wines.

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KEEP IT MOVIN’ In recent years, wine country has done a great job promoting the idea of “Wine and…” Check out this abbreviated list designed to keep you imbibing and exploring.

Chelan Electric Bikes Winery Tour: Visit three wineries in four hours aboard hill-friendly e-bikes.

Let the guide pack it in and pack it out for you. In warmer months, bring your swimsuit to cool off at a beach detour. www.chelanelectricbikes.com

Red Mountain Trails: Saddle up for a trail-ride wine-tasting tour with these horse-loving guides.

A picnic lunch and three winery stops are included in this fresh-air adventure. Not an equestrian at heart? Inquire about wagon rides. www.redmountaintrails.com

10

COMING FULL CIRCLE

Rockstar winemaker Charles Smith fashioned Charles Smith Wines Jet City from a defunct Dr. Pepper bottling plant. Located in the Georgetown neighborhood of Seattle, this extraordinary setting takes advantage of Boeing Field runways and nearby mountainscapes. The two tasting rooms are a real mix, with rustic Northwest representing downstairs and Austin Powersmeets-James Bond happening upstairs.

In the heart of downtown Seattle, wine lovers find their happy place at Purple Café and Wine Bar. Tours are given of the floor-to-ceiling “wine tower” which captivates first-time and returning guests. A team of sommeliers stands at the ready to help patrons with a wine list longer than 100 pages.

With more than 100 wineries comprising Woodinville wine country, Bramble Bump at JM Cellars is an oasis. This 7-acre arboretum offers a trail system with more than 400 conifers and 200 Japanese maples, while a rock garden, bocce court, outdoor fire pits and multiple patios accent the grounds. Massive custom copper doors lead to the wine library and barrel room where guests can attend a private wine blending with owner and winemaker John Bigelow.

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

Yakima Valley Carriage Company: Whether a romantic escape for two or a day with a group of friends, a horse-drawn carriage tour through Yakima Valley vineyards is an unrushed way to take it all in. Trot along from April 15 to October 31. www.yakimavalleycarriageco.com Photos by Lisa Monteagudo/MM3 Designs (center) and Jeanene Sutton (bottom)

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Department of Energy

Hanford’s B Reactor at the height of the Manhattan Project.

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OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

Preserving the Past How to remember and celebrate the mixed legacy of

Hanford

written by Sheila G. Miller

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

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Hanford.

Long shrouded in secrecy, this 586 square miles of desert in southeast Washington played a pivotal role

in World War II and the Cold War.

It was the site of incredible scientific and technological advancements that dramatically changed the United States and the world. But the work that happened here wasn’t without consequence—it created the plutonium used in the nuclear bomb detonated over Nagasaki, and production of that plutonium and other nuclear weapons rendered it a Superfund site with 56 million gallons of nuclear waste.

Hanford officially stopped producing plutonium and electricity in 1987, and today is known as much for the multibillion dollar cleanup as it is for the incredible backstory on how that waste came to be. Now, the federal government and a diverse group of community members are preserving the mixed legacy of this storied, if silent, place, with both the Manhattan Project National Historical Park and other efforts.

Hanford’s History Mike Mays runs Washington State University’s Hanford History Project. Mays grew up in Washington, went to high school in Pullman and earned degrees from the University of Puget Sound and the University of Washington. Still, when he got to Richland for his appointment at WSU-Tri-Cities, he didn’t know much about Hanford.

“My wife is from Alabama, and she was doing research and had to explain to me some of the details of the significance of the Tri-Cities and Richland and Hanford,” Mays said. “I was just shocked. Having grown up here and taken Washington state history in high school and to know really so little about what had happened was kind of shocking to me.”

The site was selected by the federal government in 1942 for its role in the Manhattan Project, a program 54 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

to develop nuclear bombs in response to the Germans’ discovery of nuclear fission. Hanford, along with Oak Ridge, Tennessee, and Los Alamos, New Mexico, were secret locations dedicated to figuring out how to harness the power of nuclear fission and create the bombs that eventually brought to a grinding halt World War II. When it was selected to house this section of the Manhattan Project, residents of White Bluffs and Hanford were given thirty days to leave their homes and farms in early 1943 and given a small amount of money to do so. Then, it was time to recruit the workers—eventually 51,000 people in all. Many knew little about what they might be building or what the facilities would be used for.

According to the federal government’s official Hanford website, making plutonium is inefficient—that is, to make a little plutonium you have to create a lot of waste, both liquid and solid. The site continued to create plutonium during the Cold War, and today about 8,000

employees continue to decommission, decontaminate and take down the buildings used to make the plutonium.

That means making sure the waste doesn’t get in the air, water, or ground.

But Mays, like many who grew up here, had only the vaguest notion of all this. So he decided he could prevent other students from having that aha moment later in life. As an administrator, he searched for ways to build academics on campus, and found a natural match—advancing the history of Hanford.

Community groups around the area had given oral histories, but there was no central clearinghouse. “They were tucked away in shoeboxes in people’s garages and attics and so forth,” Mays said. The Department of Energy created seed money to help the Hanford History Project begin conducting oral histories, primarily focused on the residents who lived in Hanford and nearby White Bluff before 1943. The project collected the oral histories hiding in people’s homes, as well as its own, all in one place. They’re now digitized, transcribed and on a website, www.hanfordhistory.com.

WSU-Tri-Cities also offers a freshman interdisciplinary seminar course that focuses on Hanford history. Students work on semester-long projects devoted to the Manhattan Project and the area’s involvement in it.

“While there are many people who know very deeply the history within the community … I would say most people are not fully aware of what the importance of the Manhattan Project was, not only for the community but for the world,” Mays said.

The Hanford History Project also facilitates research and manages the Hanford Collection—3,000 unique artifacts collected from the Hanford site between 1997 and 2014, dating between 1943 and 1990. Pieces from the collection are loaned out to museums, and the project continues to gather papers from notable Hanford alums.

To Mays, preserving Hanford’s history is a simple choice—he believes the Manhattan Project was the most significant event of the twentieth century. “There’s a lot of competition for that claim, but the discovery of nuclear fission and the development of nuclear weapons fundamentally changed the way that we experience life,” he said.

Mays believes there are several reasons Washington natives and other members of the public don’t have a strong understanding of the significance of Hanford.

There’s an idea in Tri-Cities like many other places, Mays said, that “if it happened in my backyard it can’t be that interesting.”

Department of Energy

Years of lobbying resulted in B Reactor’s preservation.

There’s also the fact that the project was so secret for so long—many people didn’t know that relatives worked at Hanford, or if they knew that’s where they worked, they didn’t know what they did there.

Mays also points to Hanford’s mixed legacy, and believes sometimes the humanitarian and environmental questions overshadow the scientific advancements made there.

“After Three Mile Island in 1979 and Chernobyl in 1986, there was a reconsideration of nuclear that was absolutely called for,” Mays said. “Nobody can argue with people’s concerns. … A lot of the story just gets eclipsed because of the very legitimate concerns of downwinders and the effects of not only the bombs that were dropped on Japan but the prolific testing that happened after that, and the impacts that had on communities from the Marshall Islands to Nevada to Washington and so on and so forth. It shifted the pendulum.”

Now it’s about trying to get the pendulum back to the middle, Mays said—where the public can consider the incredible science and technological advancements made while also recognizing the humanitarian issues and environmental problems that came from the Manhattan Project.

“The Tri-Cities community has been a little defensive, and they have some good reasons to be. It’s a community where the nuclear industry has been its lifeblood, first with the Manhattan Project and then with nuclear energy, and then with the complete reversal—with the cleanup,” Mays said. “So the tendency has been to focus a little bit more on the heroic, the Greatest Generation and the engineering and technological feats. That shouldn’t be discounted, but that’s only one part of the story. Likewise, if we only focused on contamination and the bombings of Nagasaki and Hiroshima, again that’s only one side of the story.”

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Atomic Heritage Foundation

Today, the public can tour the B Reactor and other parts of Hanford.

Preserving B Reactor Mays wasn’t the first person in the Tri-Cities to realize the importance of preserving Hanford’s history for future generations.

For more than twenty-five years, a group calling itself the B Reactor Museum Association toiled in an effort to prevent the site’s destruction. The association is primarily made up of people who worked at Hanford, though it is open to anyone.

John Fox, president of the B Reactor Museum Association, described the group as a grassroots effort to persuade federal authorities that instead of sealing it and forgetting about it, they should save just this one reactor.

It took years, Fox said, and a lot of help from engineering societies around the country, to get the building designated as a historic engineering achievement.

“It was a very high-risk gamble from the standpoint of physics and chemistry,” Fox said of the reactor and the rest of the site. “It was taking something from the 56 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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very forefront of scientific research at the time to mass production on an industrial scale.”

After the reactor was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1992, designated a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark in 1994, and named a National Historic Landmark in 2008, the B Reactor opened for annual public tours in 2009. Not all of the building is available for tours—due to hazards—but the control room and much of where the action took place is open to visitors.

Today, association members are still called on for special tours. Fox hosted a tour for Mitsugi Moriguchi, a survivor of the Nagasaki bombing. The year the bomb dropped, the Japanese visitor was 8 years old, while Fox turned 18. “I expected to be drafted to invade Japan, but the bomb was dropped in August and the war was over in September,” Fox said. “I wasn’t drafted, and Japan wasn’t invaded.” In other words, Fox said, the bomb affected his life in another way—he could very well have been killed in combat if the war had gone on.

Creating a National Park The B Reactor Museum Association worked with a variety of groups in preserving the reactor. Chief among those is Cindy Kelly, the founder and president of the Atomic Heritage Foundation.

Kelly started the foundation in 2002 with the mission of creating a Manhattan Project National Historical Park.

Over the past sixteen years, the foundation has worked to preserve properties at Hanford, as well as in Oak Ridge and Los Alamos, and worked with the local communities in those places to preserve and interpret the history.

The Atomic Heritage Foundation also has a huge online presence, offering up primary source documents and oral histories to the curious—want to see Albert Einstein’s letter to FDR warning of the German effort to make an atomic bomb? You’re in luck. Want to hear female physicist Leona Marshall Libby explain xenon poisoning? You’ve come to the right place.

“I think by studying the past, we get a better sense for the present,” Kelly said. “Obviously we are in a world full of nuclear weapons, on the one hand. On the other hand, the world is full of the benefits—nuclear medicine and research—that were generated by the project. Scientific innovations, high-speed computing, the human genome project, studies to understand what low doses of radiation can do in all sorts of contexts. All of these advances have been a direct descendant of the work done in the Manhattan Project, so it’s a very rich history.”

The park was established in November 2015 after the Department of Energy and National Park Service came to an agreement on the project. DOE owns and manages the sites, while the park service handles visitor centers and interpretive services. In Hanford, the free, four-hour guided tours cover the B Reactor as well as several pre-Manhattan Project facilities, including the old high school and the Hanford Construction Camp Historic District.

The biggest challenge of preserving Hanford, Fox said, came down to budget. The Department of Energy has a clear mission for Hanford at this point—to put its money into cleaning it up and packaging the 56 million gallons of nuclear waste that sit in underground tanks.

“That’s proving to be more of a challenge than building and operating the place in the first place, which is ironic,” Fox said. “Anything that doesn’t fit in that cleanup mission is harder to justify in the eyes of the federal agency, so (the park) took a lot of persuasion.”

Kelly recognizes the controversies of the Manhattan Project, both environmental and humanitarian, but said it’s important to keep it in context.

“What’s the legacy of Gettysburg, or Antietam?” she asked. “The Civil War was a bloodbath. Talk about brutal—they were bayonetting each other and short-

“I think by studying the past, we get a better sense for the present. Obviously we are in a world full of nuclear weapons, on the one hand. On the other hand, the world is full of the benefits—nuclear medicine and research—that were generated by the project. … All of these advances have been a direct descendant of the work done in the Manhattan Project.”

— Cindy Kelly, Atomic Heritage Foundation range firing. If you look at it now, that field is kind of bucolic looking and it’s hard to imagine.”

As to the environmental legacy, she notes only 10 percent of the 580 square miles was used, and identified the environmental legacy of Hanford as one of advancing stateof-the-art environmental cleanup technologies.

“Most of Hanford is pristine,” she said. “There’s a section of Hanford that has flora and fauna not seen in the wild since the days of Lewis and Clark. It’s always been a little frustrating to hear the drumbeat that it’s the largest Superfund site in the world.”

When the idea of the Manhattan Project National Historical Park first surfaced, Kelly said the park service worried about putting rangers at a Superfund site. But, she said, there’s less radiation in the B Reactor than outside of it.

“It’s not as bad as people think. Far from it,” she said. “That’s not to say there are not areas that are contaminated. The tank waste poses a unique disposal problem of what to do with it.”

There is a section on the park’s website noting some areas are still part of “active DOE mission activities,” and as a result some of the facilities aren’t open to the public or can only be visited through bus tours.

Fox hopes his group can help present more information about the environmental cleanup process, which Fox called “the fission product mess, which is the devilish problem here.”

“History is what happened and why it happened at the time, with the level of knowledge and understanding at that time,” Fox said. “Looking back at whether it should have happened or been avoided, we can always debate that forever. But what happened, happened. We aren’t necessarily memorializing it or lauding it by preserving it. It’s as important to preserve it as a reminder of the bad consequences it had and to say, ‘Maybe we should learn how to avoid doing these things when the next opportunity comes along.’”

Kelly agreed.

“It’s all part of our history,” Kelly said. “You don’t have to save everything—progress comes along. But I think it’s important to have something from every chapter. People are going to be curious about this, for generations to come.”

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WIND WRANGLERS photography by Kate Daigneault Each summer, Long Beach is transformed for a week during the Washington State International Kite Festival. Kites of all sizes fill the skies with color as famous kite fliers show off their skills and tens of thousands of spectators watch in wonder.

A variety of kites soar above the Washington State International Kite Festival in Long Beach.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT A young attendee hitches a ride to get a better look at the large kite field. The street leading up to the festival offers snacks as well as places to buy kites of your own. A festival visitor readies his kite. John Stefan, left, and a friend work on getting a large kite into the air.

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CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT One of the youngest competitors and field directors shows off his kite pins. Team Evidence performs a partners routine in the precision sport kite competition. Massive caterpillar kites fly along the ground in the large kite field. The crowd cheers during the sport kite ballet. Ribbons are awarded to festival competitors.

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ADVENTURE 68 LODGING 74 TRIP PLANNER 76 NORTHWEST DESTINATION 82

pg. 68 Leaf Geraghty leads fishing expeditions.

Justin Bailie

TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 66

Pacific Bonsai Museum

travel spotlight

Travel Spotlight

Art and Nature Pacific Bonsai Museum is one of two in the United States written by Vanessa Salvia

BONSAI TREES are living art, an artform that will never be completed or finished. It can take years to create an envisioned tree shape, followed by a lifetime of care. The Pacific Bonsai Museum in Federal Way, one of only two bonsai museums in the United States, presents bonsai as fine art pieces. The elegant, architect-designed outdoor setting offers seasonally rotating displays of fifty to sixty bonsai out of the museum’s 150 trees, some hundreds of years old. The exhibit was a private collection established in 1989 on the state of Washington’s 100th birthday. The exhibit transitioned to a nonprofit museum in 2014. Trees are protected by acrylic enclosures when the temperature drops and are watered multiple times a day on hot days. Though it’s open-air, it’s still a museum, complete with themed exhibits, talks, demonstrations and tour guides. Admission by donation.

It’s an island thing.

North Umpqua River

For more than 20 years the best chefs and winemakers from around Oregon have joined forces at Steamboat Inn to create a special night of food, drink, and friendship. Reserve your place at the table and join the tradition.

thesteamboatinn.com Photo by justinbailie.com Steamboat Inn operates under a Special Use Permit from the Umpqua National Forest

Complimentary Wi-Fi • Complimentary Deluxe Breakfast Buffet Outdoor Pool and Hot Tub • The Crow’s Nest Bar and Grill Complimentary Bike Usage • Fridge and Microwave in Each Room Riverside Suites • Conference and Banquet Facilities • Pet-Friendly Near Historical Downtown Kennewick • Locally Owned and Operated

435 CLOVER ISLAND DRIVE, KENNEWICK, WA 866.586.0542 • 509.586.0541 • www.cloverislandinn.com

Don’t risk a fall visit to Cannon Beach.

It might rain; there could be rainbows and all sorts of annoying dramatic skies.

cannonbeach.org

adventure

Adventure

Fall Fishing on the Columbia River Chartering a boat on opening day at Buoy 10 written by Laura Cherau photography by Justin Bailie

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THE LATE SUMMER AIR is full of salt smell, warm and misty. I like getting up when it’s still dark and moving around outside with only the light of the bait-and-tackle truck. I have been told the salmon fishing is going to suck, because it’s early and the run was late last year, something blamed on warmer ocean and river conditions. But I am hopeful that beginner’s luck will play in my favor. I’ve never caught a fish. I’m 38.

Leaf Geraghty is laid-back in the way you’d want a charter guide to be. Down-to-earth would be another way to describe him. He’s a big guy, a guy’s guy, a father and a contractor.

He’ll try like hell to land you a fish on a bad day.

He knows about the tides and weather and the sandbars. His humor is a bit Chevy Chase and a bit young Bruce Springsteen, I think.

Geraghty’s dogs have already eaten his lunch, which he left on the stairs of his house while packing the boat up this morning. When I show up, though it is well before our starting time, he’s already got the boat in the water.

Geraghty’s River Wolf is called the Bar Tender. It’s an open-sled boat with an offshore bracket and an Evanrude 300 hp—an excellent rough water boat to have on the lower Columbia. I know about the other kind of bartending and being a single mom and writing. I know next to nothing about fishing. I think I am supposed to be quiet. I’ve stared at this river for what feels like forever and watched people fish from shore. That’s what started this—I took a photograph of anglers on shore and the clouds opened and looked holy and I thought maybe I would like to fish too.

The river is a person with a temperamental personality. She changes colors frequently. She can be soft like brown butter or violent and black. This morning her black water is kind and quiet and only lurches and laps the hull when I climb aboard.

Geraghty leaves to park his truck and returns with his two dogs, who run down the dock and jump in the wrong boat. The boat’s owner looks confused. It’s still pitch black out. Geraghty gives the dogs a good talkingto, and they figure out the boat I am on is theirs.

“We should be okay. If I fall off, just turn the motor off. We should be pretty good. Already a lot of guys are turning out and going to the ocean,” Geraghty says.

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adventure

Charter guide Leaf Geraghty prepares for an early-morning fishing trip.

The river is a person with a temperamental personality. She changes colors frequently. She can be soft like brown butter or violent and black. This morning her black water is kind and quiet and only lurches and laps the hull when I climb aboard.

“Forecasts for the river are not the best. A little bit of daylight starting here, we got a full tank of gas, we got bait, just need a couple of Chinook to bite and we’re there.” It’s 5:30 a.m.

Today we will not be tending the bar. We’re staying on the river. Often the Washington side of the river gets so crowded with boats during the Buoy 10 season that it looks like the occupants could join hands and form an island, or a chain, like some ants do during flood season. It’s a pretty spectacular sight from the minty green Astoria-Megler Bridge, which spans the width of the Columbia River and connects the northern corner of Oregon with the southern tip of Washington. “Sometimes a whale hangs out here,” I exhale as we pass. I want to see the whale. We don’t.

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We catch our first salmon of the day around 7 a.m. A 15-yearold boy from Long Island, New York, reels him in. “On the board! We’re on the board!” Geraghty exclaims. He gets on the phone. A big part of being a good guide is how many friends you have out on the water. All day Geraghty’s phone is blowing up to the opening chord progression of AC/DC’s “Highway to Hell.”

They talk about where the fish are and what they seem to be biting. Today the answers seem to be “nowhere” and “nothing.”

We mill around for hours, trolling with our lead droppers, flashers, anchovies and cut-plug herring. We use a spinner on the bow a couple of times.

Ted Hughes, the English poet, thought fishing was meditative, “some form of communion with levels of

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adventure

yourself that are deeper than the ordinary self.”

I order myself to stay in the present moment.

I know that if I catch anything, it is out of my control. It would be because a fish is hungry, or deranged, or because of the “short bus” flashers Geraghty said were “consistently good.”

Or because of the tide, the cold water current, the weather, coincidence or something more spiritual that I failed to grasp.

We decide to bail on the absentee Chinook and go sturgeon fishing in the afternoon. The sky is still gray cashmere and the hills misty and navy blue on the horizon. The water ebbs milky green identical to its foggy forest surroundings.

When I finally reel in a green sturgeon it is exactly 1 inch longer than my 11-year-old son. It is hard to reel in a big green sturgeon the size of your child as fast as possible. My left arm and leg shake uncontrollably. I fear losing the rod. We measure him and then I let him go. After the fight is over, I realize I just made the sturgeon irritatingly late for something, like when I make my son brush his hair before he runs out the door.

We have to wait for the tide to come back in to return to salmon fishing. “Got the curse!

C’mon, stupid salmon! Beat it, seagull,” Geraghty says. We fish for more hours. I’ve been in boats before, but never for this long. I could have flown from Seattle to Dubai to much the same physical effect—the 3-foot chop mimicking in-flight turbulence of a mellow and fatigueinducing nature.

When Geraghty finally throws his hands up and resigns himself to a beanbag chair and a can of Pringles, it is time to leave. He counts five total salmon caught from the boats he knows, including the one we caught. I am relieved beyond measure to be going home. It is fun when we do a big loop in the River Wolf on the way home, like going on two wheels in a Formula One racer. On the other hand, I feel like it’s making me late for something.

On Thursday, those who want their limit head out to the ocean for Coho. I feel like a salmon fishing failure who just landed in Dubai and doesn’t wish to leave her hotel room. I am amazed to realize that I actually like this and I’d probably do it again. Would I go out for open ocean? Tuna? Marlin? I would. I vow to catch a damned salmon and eat him for dinner. I look forward to long hikes and winter steelhead. I need waders. Maybe I’ll get Geraghty to take me out for crab or coho or both.

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adventure

FROM TOP LEFT Leaf Geraghty’s dogs, Ellie and Buddy. A caught fish. Geraghty prepares a line. Boats along the Columbia River. Geraghty holds a fish in a net.

The Astoria-Megler Bridge spans the river.

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Photos: Fire & Vine Hospitality

ACCOMMODATIONS

Lodging

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Eritage is a jumping-off point for wine tasting. Ten guest rooms populate this adults-only resort. Butterscotch pudding at the restaurant. Eritage plans to add ten more rooms.

Eritage Resort written by Cara Strickland NESTLED INTO THE rolling fields and vineyards of Walla Walla wine country, you’ll find this adults-only resort, almost like a mirage. Eritage is the brainchild of Va Piano Vineyards owner and winemaker Justin Wylie, whose vision was to create a place to gather and relax in luxury, all while enjoying the best of what wine country has to offer. The resort is convenient to the local vineyards and for dining in and around Walla Walla, but far enough to help you feel you’re getting away from it all.

1319 BERGEVIN SPRINGS ROAD WALLA WALLA eritageresort.com

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There are currently ten guest rooms (ten more are soon to be constructed), each including a private deck or patio with views of the mountains or the manmade lake. Enjoy nightly turn-down service for your soft-as-air kingsized bed, luxury bath products and a stateof-the-art entertainment system for all your viewing needs. The rooms have a fireplace, seating area, a large shower and a soaking tub for ultimate relaxation.

DINING

All resort guests are invited to a continental breakfast with housemade baked goods and whatever other seasonal fare might be available. For dinner, check out Eritage’s intimate in-house restaurant, helmed by James Beard Award-winning chef Jason Wilson. The menu changes seasonally to allow the culinary team to showcase the region’s bounty.

AMENITIES

Enter fully into relaxation by booking an in-room massage during your stay. Get out on the lake with a paddleboard—complimentary for resort guests—or take a dip in the pool.

Try your hand at a lawn game, or simply sit in a lawn chair and take in all the natural beauty.

If you’re looking to host an event, keep in mind that Eritage is fully equipped for weddings, meetings and other gatherings.

trip planner

Small Town Roots, Bigtime Wine Walla Walla is about a lot more than just wine written by Catie Joyce-Bulay

L’Ecole No. 41 is based in an old schoolhouse.

I FIRST FELL in love with the Pacific Northwest while living in Eugene, Oregon. Even after I returned to my home state back east, the PNW kept calling to me and I eventually convinced my husband we needed to move back.

He landed a job in Walla Walla, a town we knew nothing more about than as a Bugs Bunny cartoon reference.

I soon found Washington’s Inland Empire to be a completely different planet from the Pacific Northwest I thought I knew. Far from being a disappointment, exploring all the Walla Walla Valley has to offer has been a grand adventure. Lush forests are replaced by rolling hills and high desert, a vibrant green in the spring, and changing colors every month after.

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As for the town, it doesn’t get much more charming. Yes, Walla Walla is best known for its wine, favoring bold Bordeaux styles, but it still holds strong roots in its farming community and pioneer heritage. It is home to three colleges which bring an abundance of arts and culture to the town of about 35,000. The wineries have helped cultivate a foodie scene that’s hard to beat.

Saffron Mediterranean Kitchen

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OCEAN CREST RESORT • 360-276-4465 4651 SR 109 Moclips, WA 98562 OceanCrestResort • info@OceanCrestResort.com

Experience Walla Walla’s laid-back, small-town charm blended with more than 120 world-class wineries, award-winning restaurants, history, arts, and culture beyond our size.

Plan your next adventure at WallaWalla.org Fly from Walla Walla and check your first case of wine for free!

Learn more at TasteAndTote.com

Melissa McFadden

Fort Walla Walla Museum

trip planner

Day WINE • OLD WEST CHARM • MODERN ART Driving into town from the west, catch the wind just right and you may be inspired to belt out a line from “America the Beautiful” when you see those amber waves of grain undulating across the plains like a golden ocean. Although Walla Walla’s tiny airport has daily flights to and from Seattle, driving gives you the perfect excuse to begin wine tasting before you even get to town. As the not-so-distant Blue Mountains come into view, so do the cluster of wineries that make up the Westside District.

Woodward Canyon Winery is one of the first on Highway 12, and one of the oldest wineries and vineyards in the valley. Its tasting room, a restored 1870s farmhouse, was the old home of the teachers of Lowden School, next door, which today is also a winery. The 1915 restored school is home to L’Ecole No. 41 Winery, where you can still ring the old school bell before stepping inside for a tasting. Enjoy a glass of their crisp, grapefruity Chenin Blanc (one of my favorites) while sunning on the patio.

The first thing you’ll see as you spot town is its tallest building and hallmark of downtown, the Marcus Whitman Hotel and Conference Center. A stay in this historic hotel sets you up perfectly for a stroll through the Downtown District’s many wineries (you can’t throw a stone without hitting two), chic boutiques and restaurants.

Spend the afternoon touring Walla Walla’s art paired with wine. Start at Foundry Vineyards, where rotating exhibits bring 78 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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in world-renowned artists. The sculpture garden contains permanent pieces made at the Walla Walla Foundry. DAMA Wines’ new downtown tasting room showcases regional artists and each of the wine bottle labels of this woman-owned winery features a female artist. The wines at both are worth tasting even without the art. By now, you’ll begin to notice how approachable the wineries are, how readily pourers will give newbies the lowdown on what’s in the glass and how it got there, along with restaurant recommendations. It’s not uncommon to find the winemaker herself in the tasting rooms.

Walk a few blocks more onto Whitman College’s campus and tour the sculptures. Tucked among giant trees, a Japanese garden and a footbridge-covered winding stream are totem poles and sculptures, many cast at the Foundry, including “Carnival,” a colorful Venus de Milo by celebrated Pop artist and Walla Walla resident Jim Dine. Don’t miss the Dale Chihuly glass sculptures in the Reid Campus Center and Cordiner Hall, then head to the Sheehan Gallery, home to the college’s indoor art collection.

Dinner is a walk away through Main Street’s preserved brick buildings that readily recall its early days as a stopover on the Oregon Trail. I never miss an opportunity to have another bowl of T. Mac’s dreamy Bolognese when friends and family come to town. For fine French fare, Brasserie Four is a delight, and the new Soi 71’s Thai menu is spot on.

Sarah Koenigsberg

trip planner

Day

FROM LEFT A living history character at Fort Walla Walla Museum. Cugini Italian Import Foods has the charcuterie makings ready for you. Foundry Vineyards features a raft of art. Woodward Canyon Winery is in the Westside District. DAMA Wines has a new downtown tasting room. Brasserie Four serves up French food, like this bouillabaisse. The Marcus Whitman Hotel is the crown jewel of hotels.

HISTORY • HIKING • PANORAMIC VIEWS PICNIC If you’re staying at the Marcus Whitman, you don’t have to go far for a great breakfast. The complimentary breakfast buffet has everything you need to provide a solid base for your busy day of hiking and wine tasting.

History buffs will want to make a morning trip to Fort Walla Walla Museum, where you can roam through an authentic pioneer village and see a life-sized replica of a thirty-three-mule team pulling a Harris combine used to plow the steep slopes.

Those looking for an abridged history lesson can visit the second floor of the Marcus Whitman Hotel, and see an artist rendition of the Whitman Mission and the region’s history.

Get a jump on picnic-gathering supplies with a visit to neighboring College Place, which, like everything else, is only a ten-minute traffic-free drive away. Cugini Italian Import Foods has all the essentials for charcuterie, from housemade soppressata and salami to a variety of imported olives and cheeses.

It will be worth the extra five-minute drive to visit Frog Hollow Farm’s farm stand beside its century-old farmhouse for fresh heirloom vegetables (find its tomatoes in many downtown and Seattle restaurants).

Epic picnic views abound across town on Pikes Peak Road or Scenic Loop Road. Visit an eastside winery on the way, like Walla Walla Vintners, to pick up a bottle to go, before winding

up the hillside for breathtaking views of the valley’s farmlands below.

For a hike in the Blues, take Mill Creek Road to Tiger Canyon, winding up the dramatic canyon striped with ponderosa pines on its north-facing slopes and wildflowers to the south. The road eventually turns to dirt, with Umatilla National Forest and hiking trails on the right and Mill Creek Watershed on the left. Head to Deduct Trailhead to hike in the forest along the North Fork of the Walla Walla or farther to Table Rock for rim views.

After a hike, the southside wineries are the perfect place to relax, home to the newly designated Rocks District AVA. Northstar Winery has one of my favorite glass-in-hand views of the vineyards, foothills and mountains. Back in town, swing by the Vineyard Lounge for its happy hour. I recommend the local wine of the month paired with chorizo-stuffed mushrooms and fried calamari with housemade dipping sauces. Then stroll across the street to the WhitehouseCrawford, whose farm-to-table ingredients are impeccably and elegantly prepared.

If you still have energy, Club Sapolil has live music most nights, offering a laid-back wine bar vibe.

Check out the Gesa Power House Theatre or The Little Theatre of Walla Walla for live performances.

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WALLA WALLA, WASHINGTON

trip planner

EAT T. Mac’s www.tmacsww.com Brasserie Four www.brasseriefour.com Soi 71: A Thai Noodle House www.soi71noodlehouse.com Whitehouse-Crawford www.whitehousecrawford.com Colville Street Patisserie www.colvillestreetpatisserie.com Maple Counter Cafe www.maplecountercafe.com/wpsite Graze www.grazeevents.com

STAY Marcus Whitman Hotel & Conference Center www.marcuswhitmanhotel.com Walla Faces Inn www.wallafaces.com/hotels/

FROM LEFT Burwood Brewing is a great stop when you’re tired of wine tasting. Walla Walla Community College has a College Cellars.

Abeja www.abeja.net/inn

Day

Green Gables Inn www.greengablesinn.com

BIRDING BENNINGTON LAKE • BREWS • AIRPORT DISTRICT

Maxwell House Bed & Breakfast www.themaxwellhouse.com

PLAY Woodward Canyon Winery www.woodwardcanyon.com L’Ecole No. 41 Winery www.lecole.com Foundry Vineyards www.foundryvineyards.com DAMA Wines www.damawines.com College Cellars www.collegecellars.com Sheehan Gallery www.whitman.edu/sheehan/ Sheehan_Exhibitions.html Hiking the Blue Mountains www.bmlt.org/new-page-2 Birding at Bennington Lake www.blumtn.org Club Sapolil www.sapolil.com Gesa Power House Theatre www.phtww.com The Little Theatre of Walla Walla ltww.org Burwood Brewing Company burwoodbrewing.com Quirk Brewing www.quirkbrewing.com DW Distilling www.dwdistilling.net Walla Walla Distilling Company www.wallawalladistillingcompany.com

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For a lighter breakfast, I love starting my morning off at Colville Street Patisserie. Get there when it opens at 9 a.m., while the bright morning light filters in and the warm freshly baked pastries are being brought out. It’s never too early to sample the gelato, inspired by local ingredients like sweet pea or honey lavender. For heartier fare, try the pancakes or the Eggs Casey, topped with creamy mushroom sauce, at Maple Counter Café across the street.

Then head to Bennington Lake, a popular recreation area for locals. Walk, run or bike the trails around this reservoir for great views and opportunities to spot a variety of ducks, geese and other birds. Get there on a Tuesday morning and meet up with the Blue Mountain Audubon Society’s weekly bird walk.

Afterward, stop in at nearby Walla Walla Community College’s College Cellars, where students of the renowned enology and viticulture program produce an array of award-winning wines. Attendants of the student-run tasting room are eager to share what they’re learning, and you’ll get a taste of some lesser-known varieties and maybe a tour of the production facility. Head back into downtown for more lunch options. Graze’s veggie torta is one of my favorite sandwiches OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

and the pizza of the day never disappoints at Olive Marketplace and Café.

Around day three of showing visitors the sights, wine fatigue starts to set in. Luckily, Walla Walla has some great craft breweries and distilleries to switch it up. I head to the Airport District, where tasting and tap rooms for all three craft beverages are housed in the World War II Army base. Get caffeinated at Walla Walla Roastery or relax with a black ale on the lawn of Burwood Brewing Company. You can sample Walla Walla wines in the form of brandy by the fireside in DW Distilling’s tasting room. It’s worth making the appointment to visit Walla Walla Distilling Company in the old guard station, where you can sip a lavender-forward gin in the funky tasting room made from recycled materials.

Make Quirk Brewing and Agapas Mexican Cravings food truck your final stop. Check out the eclectic tap list, then ask for an ale made with local Mainstem Malt. After the friendly pourer tells you its local grainto-glass story, you’ve probably identified a pattern of camaraderie and community pride that runs through the veins of everyone here. I’m not allowed to call myself a local yet, but when I am, I’ll be proud to call Walla Walla home.

REALLY GOOD WINE MADE IN DUNDEE, OREGON

WINEBYJOE.COM | @WINEBYJOE

Dream big.

Plan ahead.

Washington College Savings Plans can help you start saving towards a brighter future.

Explore your options at wastate529.wa.gov

GET and DreamAhead are qualified tuition programs sponsored and distributed by the State of Washington.

The Committee on Advanced Tuition Payment and College Savings administers and the Washington Student Achievement Council supports the plans. DreamAhead investment returns are not guaranteed and you could lose money by investing in the plan. If in-state tuition decreases in the future, GET tuition units may lose value.

northwest destination

Southern Oregon Wineries in the Fall

Head to Oregon’s other wine country for culture, cafés and carafes of wine written by Kevin Max

ANY WAY YOU propel yourself through Southern Oregon—walking, cycling or driving—you can connect the natural and cultural dots that make this region the sketchbook of wine lovers. There are rolling hills that run into the forested Siskiyous, valleys with generous exposure to the sun, small towns with upscale dining from local bounty and world-class Shakespearean theater at its heart. Taken together, these things make for the quintessential Oregon getaway.

This trip builds around the tickets for any performance at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival. The 2018 season ends in mid-October with Henry V and Romeo and Juliet on the Shakespeare stages and Manahatta and Snow in Midsummer, among others, on the modern stage. The 2019 season picks up again in March, 82 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

with As You Like It and Hairspray, for starters.

I remember being in the audience for my first big production play. It was nowhere near the professional level as OSF, yet left an indelible mark on the younger me. Bringing your own kids to OSF is more magical than Disney.

Hie thee now from bard to bounty.

Southern Oregon wineries are not an undifferentiated bundle of grapes.

The wineries and regions here are as distinct as the varietals—from cooler Burgundian pinot noirs and chardonnay in the Umpqua region to Spanish, Italian and Rhone wines in the southern regions.

Irvine & Roberts is a comely winery in the rolling hills of the southern Cascades and Siskiyou ranges 5 miles southeast of Ashland. The tasting room and patio

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

Andrea Johnson Photography

DANCIN Vineyards is an Italian villastyle tasting spot in Medford.

There are rolling hills that run into the forested Siskiyous, valleys with generous exposure to the sun, small towns with upscale dining from local bounty and world-class Shakespearean theater at its heart. Taken together, these things make for the quintessential Oregon getaway.

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Performing arts. Bursting culinary scene.

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Just 2 miles off I-5, left at exit 35. | Central Point, OR Next to the world famous Rogue Creamery.

(541) 664-2218 LedgerDavid.com

EAT The Twisted Cork www.thetwistedcorkgrantspass. com Porters www.porterstrainstation.com

Cornelius Matteo

Hearsay www.hearsayashland.com Larks www.larksrestaurant.com Smithfields www.smithfieldsashland.com

T. Charles Erickson.

SOUTHERN OREGON WINE COUNTRY

northwest destination

Jacksonville Inn www.jacksonvilleinn.com Rogue Grape www.theroguegrape.com

FROM LEFT The Oregon Shakespeare Festival’s Allen Elizabethan Theatre during OSF’s 2013 production of A Midsummer Night’s Dream. Irvine & Roberts’ patio is a great spot for a short getaway.

Urban Cork www.theurbancork.com

STAY Ashland Hills www.ashlandhillshotel.com Peerless www.peerlesshotel.com Lodge at Riverside www.thelodgeatriverside.com Elan www.elanguestsuites.com

PLAY Oregon Shakespeare Festival www.osfashland.org Irvine & Roberts www.irvinerobertsvineyards. com DANCIN www.dancinvineyards.com Cliff Creek Cellars www.cliffcreek.com Augustino Estate www.augustinoestate.com Wooldridge Creek WInery www.wcwinery.com

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serve as much as a serene getaway as they do a platform for lovely wines. The first acres planted were pinot noir and chardonnay in 2007, before planting pinot meunier in 2012.

The chardonnay is exceptional, as is its pinot noir, but the pinot meunier steals the show.

DANCIN Vineyards—a crush of the prenoms Dan and Cindy Marca, the hardworking proprietors of this Italianate retreat in Medford—is another favorite. Not only does DANCIN have the best label art, its dining and wine-tasting spaces inspire conversation. If not for the camera function to capture the beautiful vistas, cell phones would be neglected in favor of old-fashioned banter.

Another favorite of ours is Cliff Creek Cellars.

The cabernet sauvignon, syrah and Super Tuscan are fantastic in the bucolic Gold Hill vineyard. Cliff Creek also has a tasting room up north in Newberg. If you’re passing through Newberg on another wine tour, put Cliff Creek Cellars on your list. Set in a renovated bank with Ionic columns and a vault used as a wine cellar, this tasting room has patina.

Augustino in the Illinois Valley offers its visitors two experiences—a tasting in the old red barn near Grants Pass and the more lofty tasting room in a treehouse in O’Brien, 7 miles southwest of Cave Junction.

Wooldridge Creek Winery in the Applegate Valley got an early jump on others, planting grapes for hobby wine in 1978. Over time, it grew into a producer of grapes for other regional winemakers. Today, Wooldridge OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

Creek is a farming mecca, producing great wines, cheese at its creamery and its own charcuterie. Either visit its tasting room, Vinfarm, in Grants Pass, where the winery serves its cheese and charcuterie in a brickwalled den, or head out to the winery and farm for expansive views.

There are too many amazing wines and tasting experiences to get to in one visit. Valley View Winery in the Applegate Valley is one.

Try the chardonnay and viognier.

In Medford, the downtown wine scene is coming to life with tasting rooms, including Urban Cork and the new Rogue Grape, a brick building with local and regional wines in house.

In a climate where wine grapes thrive, naturally so does other produce and meat, setting the table for some of the state’s best farm-to-table restaurants. In Ashland, Hearsay, Larks and Smithfields are a few that top the charts for local and exquisite. In Jacksonville, Gogi’s and Jacksonville Inn are favorites, the latter for its atmosphere and wine selection and the former for its mustard-crusted filet mignon and cocktails.

In Medford try Porters, a renovated train station with local fare and more than thirty wines by the glass. In Grants Pass, The Twisted Cork fits nicely into the theme of local food and wine.

Just a few years ago, the Southern Oregon wine scene was sleepy and largely unheralded.

Today its wines are garnering top honors and its restaurants are the epitome of bounty.

Eat. Drink.

Explore.

See Albany Discover Oregon Historic Homes Destination Fabulous cuisine, artisanal brews, historic districts, architectural wonders.

541-928-0911 www.albanyvisitors.com 110 3rd Ave SE Albany, OR 97321

1889 MAPPED The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1889.

Oroville Bellingham

Friday Harbor

Republic Colville

Mount Vernon Port Angeles Coupeville Forks

Okanogan Lakewood Marysville Everett

Port Townsend

Newport

Seattle Port Orchard Shelton Aberdeen

Montesano

Wilbur

Waterville

Bellevue Renton Kent Federal Way Tacoma

Spokane Davenport

Wenatchee Ephrata Ritzville

Olympia

Ellensburg Colfax

Chehalis

South Bend

Yakima Pomeroy Richland

Cathlamet Longview Kelso

Prosser

Pasco Kennewick

Dayton Walla Walla

Goldendale Vancouver

Stevenson

Live

Think

Explore

18 Kalama Harbor Lodge

38 Rover

66

Pacific Bonsai Museum

21 Cochinito Taqueria

40 Double Canyon Winery

68

Buoy 10

22 Cranberry farms

41 UW-Gonzaga Regional Health Partnership

74

Eritage Resort

76

L’Ecole No. 41 Winery

82

Southern Oregon wine country

28 Modern Wagon 34 West Coast Sea Glass

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42 UnCruise 44 Water From Wine

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

Asotin

Enjoy your Hood River visit this fall with these wonderful local shops!

PHOTOS: BLAINE FRANGER / BEAUTIFULHOODRIVER.COM

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RECE Stay 2 consecutive nights in a Riverview room at the Westcliff Lodge during your visit to Hood River and receive a $50 voucher to use at any of our local partner restaurants, shops, and wineries. Call for details!

IVE A

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Until Next Time

A Transformational Kayak Journey written by Cheryl Dimof

IT WAS OUR LAST DAY on the island, and I asked myself if I had to go home. I could sneak off, ditch work, responsibilities, and live out a castaway fantasy—at least for the short time our Pacific Northwest weather would comfortably support it. There would, of course, be treks across the island to Tillicum Village for smoked salmon and mimosas. One cannot rough it too much.

Twelve women, including our guides Maria Cook and Spring Courtright—who lead three of these “Transformational Kayak Journeys” every summer— had paddled our kayaks 2.5 miles from Bainbridge Island to Blake Island, accompanied by the occasional harbor porpoise.

For three days and two nights, we camped on the sandy northwest tip of the island. We hiked, made beach art, ate, drank wine (I came prepared with my stainless-steel REI stemware), read poetry and had a combination of “sharing time” and quiet solo time. We turned off our cell phones, broke free of social media and connected with nature, each other and ourselves.

Yoga on the beach was among our island adventures. A seaplane, landing nearby, disturbed our asanas. Emerging from the plane was a neatly dressed young couple with a picnic basket, which elicited gasps of excitement from our group: “Look! He’s going to propose!” “It’s so romantic!”

“Let’s show them our butts!” Our intention of mindfulness sparred with our voyeuristic tendencies. As we downward dogged, we watched them sit down together on a log. As we tadasana-ed, we watched them picnic. “I hope she says yes after all this,” one woman observed. As we vrksasanaed, we watched them kiss. They returned to the plane accompanied by the sound of cheering women.

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OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

Our practice completed, we gathered our tarp, turned our thoughts from yoga (and romance) and completed our weekend adventure. Wind and waves challenged our return home and, though the rudder on my kayak broke, I was able to paddle my boat capably against the forces of nature.

Was the journey transformational? I’m sure it was for the couple beginning their lives together. Perhaps someday the story they tell their children will include a bunch of wild middle-aged yoginis. As for me, I was reminded that I could do without too much extra stuff—without the REI stemware or the iPhone. That not every adventure has to be Instagrammed. That I could, in fact, paddle my own canoe (or, in this case, kayak). I ditched my recent favorite outdoor buzz phrase of “I love not camping,” and learned that, in this second childhood of mine, pitching a tent on the beach is, once again, awesome.

The island calls me to visit again soon to live out a bit more of my castaway (but with drinks and appetizers and yoga) fantasy.

Sometimes I get what I’ve heard is called fernweh—an aching for faraway places I’ve never been. But experiences like this remind me that the Pacific Northwest is special and renews my appreciation and gratitude for this beautiful corner of the world that I call home.

SEE THE FOREST FOR THE CHEESE

KEEP IT REAL. KEEP IT WASHINGTON. Washington dairy. As delicious as our state is beautiful.

W A D A I R Y. O R G

Washington’s Magazine

Cranberry Recipes

Innovative Tiny Homes

Southern Oregon Wine Tasting

October | November 2018

AMAZED

TRIP PLANNER: WALLA WALLA PG. 76

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BOLD + BEAUTIFUL WINERIES from Walla Walla to Vashon Island (and everywhere between)

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volume 11