1889 Washington's Magazine | April/May 2019

Washington’s Magazine

TRIP PLANNER: BELLEVUE, KIRKLAND + WOODINVILLE PG. 78

Kitchen Makeovers

Cherry Blossom Cocktail

Spot Prawn Recipes

April | May 2019

C O A STA L

CHIC

HOME + DESIGN

3

HOMES THAT WOW ON THE WATER

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WASHINGTON April | May

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2 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

APRIL | MAY 2019

Creative Space photography by Terray Sylvester From the outside, Mighty Tieton looks like just another warehouse. But inside, creativity is brimming, with locals binding books, running a letterpress, making mosaics and creating music. Step inside the workspace that is revitalizing this once-forlorn orchard town. (pg. 36)

Ed Marquand, owner of Mighty Tieton, works in the studios of Paper Hammer.

APRIL | MAY 2019

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 3

FEATURES APRIL | MAY 2019 • volume 14

52 Coastal Cool Water, water everywhere in Washington—and we’ve got a collection of coastal homes that will have you heading for the headwaters. written by Melissa Dalton

58 Baptism By Fire Seattle wasn’t always the bastion of cool it is today. Before the Great Fire of 1889, the city was a timber town with a seedy underbelly. written by Sheila G. Miller

64 Immortal Perfumes is a micro-perfumery.

At her Seattle studio, JT Siems creates all her literary-themed perfumes by hand, combining her love of fragrance with a weakness for books. photography by Meghan Nolt

Belathée Photography

A Whiff of Wonder

If Epic is in your nature, Spokane is your destination.

The largest urban waterfall in the West, Spokane Falls is the thundering heart of your next shopping, dining and entertainment adventure. Come experience the river and fall in love with Spokane. visitspokane.com/things-to-do

DEPARTMENTS

LIVE 14 SAY WA?

APRIL | MAY 2019 • volume 14

Spring is in the air, so get outside with our event picks. Then make sure to check out Unlikely Friends’ new musical love letter to the region’s best bands and grab Richard Chiem’s dark, dreamy new novel.

36

18 FOOD + DRINK

Raise a toast with the OOLA Distillery Cherry Blossom, the perfect cocktail for springtime. Grab local fare at PCC Community Markets and Doe Bay Cafe, then celebrate the return of fresh produce with our picks for best salads.

22 FARM TO TABLE

For a short time each year, spot prawns are the Washington delicacy everyone loves. Find out how Lummi Island Wild’s Riley Starks likes to serve them, then try a few recipes for yourself.

28 HOME + DESIGN

Terray Sylvester

Two kitchens get black-and-white makeovers that let the food—and the company—shine. Plus, easy kitchen upgrades for your home.

34

18

34 MIND + BODY

Six years ago, Nancy Herron decided it was time to get in shape. Today, she’s walking across Europe.

36 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE

Mighty Tieton, an artist incubator in this orchard town in the Yakima Valley, is bringing new life to the community, and sparking local creativity.

THINK 42 STARTUP

Already pleasing customers with its beautiful, organic linens, Plover now sells garden kits to give your yard a pop of color.

44 WHAT’S GOING UP

New condos and apartments are rising up in cities around the state.

46 WHAT I’M WORKING ON

Ingrid McQuivey

A Washington State University medical school professor is using data about the state’s east-west health divide to place residents where they can make the greatest impact.

42 10 11 86 88

Editor’s Letter 1889 Online Map of Washington Until Next Time

49 MY WORKSPACE

The Jansen Art Center brings Lynden’s artist community together with classes, contests and wine.

50 GAME CHANGER

Seattle’s KEXP wants to help you heal through music and open dialogue about grief and mortality.

EXPLORE 72 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT

Take the Yakima Valley Trolley for a trip back in time through Central Washington.

74 ADVENTURE

Kitsap Peninsula’s waterways are now a national trail, and there are plenty of ways to get out and enjoy the water.

76 LODGING

Cherry Wood Bed Breakfast & Barn is a working farm filled with rescue horses, teepees and wine. What’s not to love?

78 TRIP PLANNER

COVER

Go east, young man, away from the bustle of Seattle and into suburban delights—Woodinville, Kirkland and Bellevue have plenty of charm all their own.

photo by Andrew Giammarco (see Coastal Cool, pg. 52)

84 NORTHWEST DESTINATION

Yosemite National Park is a must-see, and it’s so big you better start exploring.

6 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

APRIL | MAY 2019

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CONTRIBUTORS

MICHELLE KEHM Writer Game Changer

TERRAY SYLVESTER Photographer Artist in Residence

ALISHA MCDARRIS Writer Adventure

INGRID MCQUIVEY Photographer Mind + Body

I’ve listened to KEXP since it was called KCMU and only available at 90.3 FM on the radio dial. Walking into the station’s new digs at Seattle Center and interviewing DJ John Richards felt more like a fan-girl dream come true than it did work. I’m so impressed by how KEXP has grown from a Seattle music station to a streaming global community that tackles tough social issues. (pg. 50)

Having lived and worked as a journalist in rural areas, I know how residents of small communities can struggle to find stable, meaningful jobs.

For those who are artistically inclined, it can be even tougher.

So I was excited to spend the day with Ed Marquand and the rest of the crew at Mighty Tieton. An atmosphere of diligence, good humor, and optimism fills their studios, and I was happy to see how that joy has overflowed into public art installations around downtown Tieton—in the form of beautiful glass mosaics that sparkled in the late-winter sun. (pg. 36)

I adore being in and around water, especially if it’s in a kayak.

But I’ve never wanted to get out on the water more than I have while writing about the Kitsap Water Trails. The sights, the sounds—mountain ranges in the distance, waterfront camping, whale-watching—and easy access to hundreds of miles of waterways had me yearning to hop in a kayak and start paddling! (pg. 74)

When Nancy and I met up for her photo shoot at the Port of Ridgefield trail, it was a sunny, 28-degree morning. We fought against the wind by shooting photography, then jumping in the car to warm up about every fifteen minutes. Despite the wind and cold, she never complained and kept a positive attitude. After the shoot, Nancy added more clothing layers and went back out to run her daily mileage. What a powerhouse! (pg. 34)

8 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

APRIL | MAY 2019

EDITOR Kevin Max

MANAGING EDITOR Sheila G. Miller CREATIVE Allison Bye

WEB MANAGER

OFFICE MANAGER

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Aaron Opsahl Cindy Miskowiec Jenny Kamprath

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Cindy Guthrie Jenn Redd

BEERVANA COLUMNIST

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Jackie Dodd Molly Allen, Melissa Dalton, Viki Eierdam, Catie Joyce-Bulay, Michelle Kehm, Alisha McDarris, Ben Salmon, Rachel Smith, Cara Strickland, Corinne Whiting Jackie Dodd, Ingrid McQuivey, Meghan Nolt, Terray Sylvester

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All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmitted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs appearing in 1889 Washington’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. 1889 Washington’s Magazine and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily those of 1889 Washington’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.

APRIL | MAY 2019

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 9

A PACIFIC NORTHWEST conundrum—make my home no more functional than necessary to keep myself outdoors where I belong, or make it so cozy that lavender is a scented candle and the outdoors appear only as smudged oil paintings on the paneled wall in the study?

In this issue of 1889 Washington’s Magazine— the Home + Design issue—we strike a balance of outdoors and indoors with our feature on three coastal homes, whose designs worship the state’s coastal beauty. Writer Melissa Dalton takes us to a log cabin on Henry Island, where an owner almost gave up renovation before having a breakthrough with white paint; on to Useless Bay on Whidbey Island, where a waterbound family of many generations puts its newly combined cabin to good use; finally out to Oysterville on the Long Beach Peninsula, where a historic home on Willapa Bay becomes the pearl of the region. In Coastal Cool on page 52, you will find inspiration for your next renovation or move.

You can also stay on budget with our DIY easy kitchen upgrades from food blogger Jenny Keller, of Jenny Cookies fame. Her kitchen is the beauty of her business. Her DIY style is our gain on page 32.

We go back in time to examine the truest accounts of the Great Seattle Fire of 1889.

Managing editor Sheila G. Miller gets the inside story from a Great Fire historian, Page Olson, the president of the Last Resort Fire Department, a nonprofit devoted to preserving Seattle’s fire department history. Turn to page 58 to read this rehashed investigation.

Our travel pieces take us to water trails on the Kitsap Peninsula (pg. 74), and time travel in a trolley through the verdant Yakima Valley (Travel Spotlight, pg. 72). We explore Seattle’s Eastside bedroom communities in Trip Planner on page 78, even light out 900 miles south to Yosemite National Park in our Northwest Destination (pg. 84).

Unlikely Friends puts together a cool anthology of regional rock. Six friends spread around the Puget Sound made a list of their favorites, then got together over subsequent weeks and laid down their musical homage to some of the best bands from the

10 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

APRIL | MAY 2019

Jenn Redd

FROM THE EDITOR

PNW. We Blast Last! A Love Letter to the Fabulous Bands of the Pacific Northwest, covers The Posies, The Sonics, Mudhoney, Dharma Bums and more. Turn to page 16 to read this story and scan the QR code to hear these cool Unlikely Friends.

Spring is not a season until cherry trees blossom in pink and white on the campus of UW, at Washington Park Arboretum, and Seward and Jefferson parks. This spring, double down on the tradition with a Cherry Blossom cocktail from OOLA Distillery. It takes on the same pink-and-white profile with gin, lemon juice, grenadine, Maraschino liqueur and egg whites. In Japan, the act of viewing cherry blossoms is called hanami. In Washington, hanami oola adds a kick. Cheers!

1889 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Washington content www.1889mag.com | #1889washington | @1889washington

EXTENDED PHOTO GALLERY See additional photos from our coastal homes cover story to inspire your next home makeover.

Andrew Giammarco

www.1889mag.com/ coastalhomes

#1889WASHINGTON What does your Washington look like? Connect with us on social media by tagging your photos with #1889washington.

GEAR UP Show off your state pride with 1889 T-shirts, hoodies, tote bags and more from our online shop. www.1889mag.com/shop

APRIL | MAY 2019

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 11

SAY WA? 14 FOOD + DRINK 18 FARM TO TABLE 22 HOME + DESIGN 28 MIND + BODY 34

pg. 28 Black-and-white kitchen makeovers let the view shine.

Eugene Michel Photography

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say wa?

Tidbits & To-dos

m

cal ark you end r ar

Tall Ships Lady Washington and Hawaiian Chieftan, two tall ships that visit dozens of ports on the West Coast each year, will tour the Washington coast in May (and throughout the summer). Ships will make stops in Ilwaco, Port Townsend and Port Ludlow in May. You can tour the vessels while they’re docked for a suggested $5 donation, or you can head out on a two-hour sailing excursion for a bit more. www.historicalseaport.org

Glass Straws Do your part to eliminate plastic waste by picking up a reusable straw. And remember, just because you’re being responsible doesn’t mean it can’t look cool—KOBO Art Garden makes beautiful, colorful glass straws. Glass artists Joshua Swanson and Motoko Hayashi sell their wares in Pike Place Market, as well as in the Space Needle gift shop and the Washington Athletic Club. Or check out their Etsy store, where you can find a glass straw and cute Mason jar combo. www.koboartgarden.com

Tour of Walla Walla

ca mark le you nd r ar

Entering its twenty-first year, the Tour of Walla Walla is a four-stage, three-day cycling race from April 12 to April 14. Watch professionals zoom through the green hills, or belly up with a glass of wine in downtown Walla Walla to check out the Criterium, a course that requires cyclists to take fast corners as they zig and zag past historic buildings. www.tofww.racedaywebsites.com

14 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

APRIL | MAY 2019

say wa?

Apocalyptic Company Candles

Hardmill has an ethos of creating “simple, traditional and rugged products” with an eye toward lasting forever. From knife rolls to potholders to bags, the company uses leather and waxed canvas in handsome shades. Check out Hardmill’s aprons, which offer highquality function for any activity.

Sure, candles can be soothing. They can also be amusing—and that’s part of Apocalyptic Company’s charm. Check out the Freudian Collection, which features scents called Absent Father, Distant Mother, Golden Child, and Black Sheep. Or perhaps the Millennial Collection is more your style, with candles called Crippling Anxiety and Overworked. They’re funny, yes, but also smell wonderful.

www.hardmill.com

www.apocalypticcompany.com

ca mark y le our nd ar T Walter Duncan

Hardmill Aprons

Bloomsday When Don Kardong started Spokane’s annual road race, the Lilac Bloomsday Run, in 1977, he thought a few hundred would show up. It was more like 1,200 runners, and today nearly 50,000 show up to participate. The event, this year on May 5, is named in honor of James Joyce’s Ulysses, because it’s a bit of an odyssey to run the 12K in spring in Spokane.

Look for Perennials, those who have raced in every Bloomsday since 1977. www.bloomsdayrun.org

APRIL | MAY 2019

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 15

J. Long

say wa?

Musician

Friend Zone

Unlikely Friends revitalizes the regional music scene

Listen on Bandcamp

written by Ben Salmon

LONDON. NEW YORK CITY. MELBOURNE, Australia.

Athens, Georgia.

History is littered with great rock ‘n’ roll bands from great rock ‘n’ roll cities.

Unlikely Friends is a great rock ‘n’ roll band, but trying to pin the band to one town is tough. Members are spread out across 60-something miles, with four in Seattle, one in Tacoma and one in Olympia.

“Right now we’re pretty heavily concentrated in central Puget Sound,” said core Unlikely Friends member Charles Bert. “We may need to cut a couple of those guys loose or ask them to move to Everett.”

In a way, though, the band’s regional makeup is perfect for its new project We Blast Last! A Love Letter to the Fabulous Bands of the Pacific Northwest, a collection of twelve covers of songs by beloved local bands like Mudhoney, Young Fresh Fellows, the Wipers, Beat Happening, The Posies, The Sonics and more. Each track is recorded in the Unlikely Friends style: noisy, poppy, nonchalant and fun. The band’s most recent fulllength, Crooked Numbers, was one of the best rock records of 2018.

According to Bert, the band didn’t spend much time planning the project. It simply made a list of its favorite bands, 16 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

APRIL | MAY 2019

added a couple of older acts out of respect for the musical elders, and started recording.

“The whole project sort of evolved that way, that is, without any real plan. The ‘love letter’ concept came later, once we recognized the common thread,” he said. “We weren’t necessarily looking for songs that we could ‘make our own.’ We just chose a bunch of our favorite songs that seemed like they’d be fun to play.”

Instead of packaging them into an album for sale, the band released two songs per week earlier this year until all twelve were available at unlikelyfriends.bandcamp.com. There, listeners can download them for free, or they can pay what they want and the band will donate proceeds to the Tacoma Humane Society.

The charitable tie-in to We Blast Last! is yet another tribute to the region Unlikely Friends call home—and a music scene it considers to be an endless source of inspiration.

“It feels like regional music scenes are dying out, but you can still draw a line through sixty years of Pacific Northwest garage and punk and get a sense of the reverence that all these Northwest bands have had for each other,” Bert said. “We definitely take pride in that, though if our band is considered one of the torchbearers, then I can’t say it bodes well for the future of the lineage.”

say wa?

Bibliophile

Out of the Dark Richard Chiem channels his sadness but avoids shock value in his new novel EVEN IN THE darkest times, you can find some light.

Even when you think you won’t survive, you can. This message seems to hide in the background of Richard Chiem’s new novel, King of Joy. The book follows Corvus, a woman in the midst of such palpable grief and strife that she’s learned to withdraw into her imagination whenever necessary. While Chiem’s novel covers an awful lot of dark territory, he doesn’t shove the pain in the reader’s face—he glances at it, lets you know it’s there, then turns inward or toward something a bit more palatable, whether that is a hippopotamus or a song by Robyn.

I read somewhere you don’t like to use outlines, but your prose is exceptional. What is the writing process like for you?

I’m very much a sentence by sentence writer. The sentence is equivalent to a camera shot in a film, and I think in a similar way to a camera shot, a sentence can convey so much information for the reader, both in cadence and information.

I started the novel right after I watched the film Spring Breakers.

I was incredibly stimulated by that movie, and knowing that I work sentence by sentence, I thought the movie gave me enough to push the narrative forward. Line by line, sentence by sentence, I thought the story made emotional sense, but it was very hard because I do labor on each sentence.

You write female characters with a lot of grace. How do you go about that?

I try to write books I personally would like to read. Every book is built out of thousands and thou-

Brooks Calison

interview by Sheila G. Miller

Richard Chiem explores grief in his new novel.

sands of books, and there are a lot of narratives I’m tired of. The question is, how do we put these new stories out there? I think people turn to fiction to find the truth of things, and being a cis male, ablebodied, writing a perspective outside my own, I knew it would be incredibly challenging, but it was the story I was most interested to tell. A director I take a lot of inspiration from, Hayao Miyazaki, most of his films deal with strong, sometimes introverted female protagonists who go on a, and I hate the word ‘journey,’ but there’s an experience they go through which often ends in a strange, weird, out-of-body intimate experience. I took a lot from how Miyazaki encapsulates his characters, and I tried to do something similar.

This book deals in some heavy, dark stuff like violence and grief and tragedy. How did you write it so it didn’t seem gratuitous?

The stories I tend to get really drawn toward, they tend to be very edgy, and I’ve found other people calling my story edgy. But I really hate shock value.

One of my favorite directors is David Cronenberg, who has been called the father of body horror, but in his personal beliefs he’s very antiviolence. I think it’s interesting how, and this is a very common thing to say, but we’re all very desensitized to sexual violence and violence on screen, and it’s usually a man behind the creation of the movie, a male director directing a horrible scene, and it’s been kind of brought out to the audience to decide what to do. I think that shock value, or a focus on the action, is not doing enough work for the narrative, so I prefer not to show the acts. I want to put readers somewhere else. That puts them back on the emotional arc. This is a strange, dark novel, but I don’t want the reader to suffer, because I don’t see any point in suffering.

APRIL | MAY 2019

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 17

food + drink

Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of OOLA Distillery

The Cherry Blossom 1½ ounces OOLA gin 1 ounce fresh lemon juice ½ ounce grenadine ¼ ounce Maraschino liqueur 1 egg white

Everybody’s Brewing is a place that accepts, well, everybody.

Beervana

Dry shake all ingredients for 20 seconds until everything is blended well.

Add ice and continue to shake until the outside of the shaker is cold, then strain into a coupe glass and garnish with cherry blossoms.

18 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

Everybody’s Doing It written and photographed by Jackie Dodd “GET IN HERE!” a red neon sign screams from the otherwise monochromatic modern exterior of the Everybody’s Brewing taproom in the little town of White Salmon on the southern border of Washington.

It’s a call to action, it’s a mission statement, and it’s also the heart of who the brewery is.

“We named it Everybody’s because we want everybody to come here and feel welcome,” owner and head brewer Doug Ellenberger explained.

He doesn’t care if you don’t drink beer, if you’re sober, if you’re only there for the notorious nachos. If you’re a human, he wants you to pull up a stool and sit for a while.

From the expansive patio you can see a peek of the Columbia River, which separates White Salmon from the Oregon town of Hood River.

Although Everybody’s is officially a Washington brewery, it’s earned an honorary spot in the Oregon beer community thanks to being so wellloved in local circles and rapidly increasing its distribution across the Pacific Northwest. If you’re already in Hood River—especially if you’re there to tour the local beer scene—a quick jump across the river (just more APRIL | MAY 2019

than 2 miles away) is well worth it for a pint. The award-winning Cryo IPA is a must, the Country Boy is a local favorite, and the Cold Press Coffee Porter is fantastic.

Doug speaks fiercely about what makes him most proud about the brewery—the health insurance he was able to offer his crew this past year, the kayak-industry-famous status of his taproom’s beer slingers.

He’ll tell you how amazing his wife and co-owner is, as well as how much he feels his regulars are like family.

He will not, however, mention the awards his beer has won, or that his brewery is one of the twenty biggest in the state. He won’t tell you his beer is consistent, fantastic, and worth the drive over the bridge from Hood River. He may mention that the lab equipment he invests in to keep the beer as consistent as possible is among the most impressive for a brewery of this size—but probably not. He’s far more interested in the people who make up the fabric of the business than he is about bragging over his product.

These are things you’ll just have to find out on your own, over a pint of beer and some fantastic nachos.

BE MORE COOL Looking for award-winning wines that rival the Bordeaux region of France? Yeah, we’ve got that.

We’ve got more cool.

VisitTri-Cities.com

food + drink

CRAVINGS

FRENCH PASTRIES Whether you’re finding them at the farmers market or at their swanky new brick-and-mortar location, you’re sure to be thrilled with Left Bank Pastry’s creative and decadent treats. Depending on the day, you’ll find fruit tarts, macarons, buttery croissants or cream puffs in the shape of swans.

1001 4TH AVENUE E OLYMPIA www.leftbankpastry.com

HANDMADE CANDY Step into Bright’s Candies and you might feel like you’ve gone back in time. Cases of beautiful, handmade candy give you lots to choose from and you can take a peek at candy in production through the glass windows on the other side of the quaint store.

11 EAST MAIN STREET WALLA WALLA www.brightscandies.com

TRADITIONAL SALAMI PCC Community Markets offers cooking classes and from-scratch food.

Gastronomy

PCC Community Markets written by Cara Strickland STARTED IN A Seattle basement in 1953 with just fifteen families, PCC Community Markets are now the largest certified organic, community-owned food markets in the nation. Walking into one of these stores promises a treasure trove of local and fresh ingredients, products and gorgeous produce, meats and seafood. Right now there are eleven stores in the Puget Sound (five more coming in the near future). If you’ve been inside one, you probably know it offers delicious ready-to-eat food items, but did you know it makes everything in store from scratch using original recipes? You can even take cooking classes at many locations. It was this passion for ingredients and delicious recipes that prompted the release of Cooking From Scratch: 120 Recipes for Colorful, Seasonal Food from PCC Community Markets, last year. Inside you’ll find beautifully photographed ideas for any meal of the day—a little taste of PCC, even if there’s not one in your neighborhood.

LOCATIONS IN WESTERN WASHINGTON www.pccmarkets.com

20 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

APRIL | MAY 2019

There’s nothing like the real stuff.

Cured by Visconti is serious about doing things the right way. Its salami is fermented for one to three days and then aged anywhere from twenty-two to ninety days, all on site. Can’t make it to Leavenworth?

The store will ship.

636 FRONT STREET LEAVENWORTH www.viscontis.com/curedmeats

CRAFT BEER Green Bluff has been known for fresh produce and orchards for a long while, but beer? This is new territory. Swing by Big Barn Brewing to try the Lavender IPA or the Strong Oat Stout—the brewery offers a full range of beers to suit any drinker and a beautiful environment to drink it in.

16004 NORTH APPLEWOOD LANE MEAD www.bigbarnbrewing.com

food + drink

BEST PLACES FOR

SALAD VIF WINE | COFFEE This spot is a winner for interesting salads, with and without lettuce. Try the Local Roots Carrot Salad with tahini, preserved lemon vinaigrette, mint, pomegranate and za’atar.

It will change the way you think about carrots forever. Try the Chicory Lettuces, too, while you’re at it.

4401 FREMONT AVENUE NORTH SEATTLE www.vifseattle.com

GASPERETTI’S The Yakima Apple Salad is like taking a bite out of the valley.

Romaine hearts, local apples, toasted pecans and gorgonzola are tossed with housemade orange Pernod dressing. Add chicken for a little extra protein.

It’s the perfect way to experience Yakima, at a restaurant that has stood the test of time for more than fifty years.

1013 N 1ST STREET YAKIMA www.gasperettisrestaurant.com

THE HISTORIC DAVENPORT HOTEL PALM COURT Though there is some debate on the actual origin, the Davenport Hotel feels certain the Crab Louis Salad was invented inside its walls. Named for Louis Davenport and invented by celebrated chef Edward Mathieu (longtime chef at the Davenport who trained with Escoffier), the salad features butter lettuce, Dungeness crab legs, sliced hard-boiled eggs, tomatoes and, of course, the famous dressing.

What isn’t up for debate? This salad is delicious.

10 SOUTH POST STREET SPOKANE www.davenporthotelscollection.com

Doe Bay Cafe uses local island ingredients.

Dining

Doe Bay Cafe written by Cara Strickland YOU MAY BE familiar with Doe Bay Resort’s music festival or rustic accommodations, but you might not know it also has a restaurant offering up some of the best food on Orcas Island, composed of as much local goodness as the resort can find from island purveyors and its own garden. Depending on the time of year you visit, you can stop in for weekend breakfast and lunch— try the Buck Bay clams or the sweet corn soup along with a brunch cocktail.

Order from the menu or put yourself in the hands of a creative chef for a tasting menu on certain nights. The menu changes frequently based on what’s fresh and available at the moment, but what doesn’t change is the high-quality service and ambience. Be sure to make reservations and double-check hours, as things on the island change often.

OLGA, ORCAS ISLAND www.doebay.com

APRIL | MAY 2019

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 21

SalishCenter.org

farm to table

Farm to Table

Fleeting Delicacies Spot prawns are the short-lived surprises that truly hit the spot written by Corinne Whiting

IF THERE’S ONE Washingtonian who knows his spot prawns, it’s Riley Starks. Named for the four spots that bespeckle their bodies (two on the head, two on the tails), spot prawns are a delicacy with very short lifespans. “They’re really amazing live,” Starks said. “They’re very ephemeral and don’t keep like normal shrimp.”

If you treat them right, he explained—keeping the prawns in water that’s around 34 degrees (with adequate circulation, salinity and aeration)—they can last for about two weeks. This makes eating spot prawns all the more special, and a coveted Pacific Northwest tradition that begins around early May. “Spot prawns are the highest quality and value of any prawn you can find on the market,” Starks said.

22 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

APRIL | MAY 2019

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Get Simple Box • Basecamp Bellingham • Kind Bars • 790 KGMI • Mt. Baker Imaging + Northwest Radiologists • Boundary Bay Brewery • Bellingham Herald • Whatcom County • City of Bellingham • Port of Bellingham • Sanitary Service Company • Birch Equipment • Seeking Health • Towneplace Suites Springhill Suites • Coast Mountain Culture • Bellingham Tennis Club Made possible in part by a Tourism Grant from Whatcom County and the City of Bellingham.

MARK YOUR CALENDAR FOR OUR OTHER EVENTS THIS YEAR

TOUR DE WHATCOM July 20, 2019

MT. BAKER HILL CLIMB September 8, 2019

TRAILS TO TAPS RELAY October 20, 2019

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Charity Burggraaf

farm to table

When Starks owned the present iteration of the lauded Willows Inn from 2001 to 2013, he took great pleasure in hosting spot prawn gatherings on the deck every Sunday. These events continued through August, thanks to the restaurant’s 300-gallon insulated tote tank that had a commercial filtering system for seawater.

After replenishing its stock every week, the Willows team would sauté the prawns with chopped garlic, allowing guests to enjoy them al fresco alongside “killer margaritas.” Stark’s loyal patrons reminisce about those beloved feasts to this day.

These days, Starks sells spot prawns through Lummi Island Wild, a co-op that supports reefnet fishing and remains one of the ten most sustainable fisheries in the world. A commercial fisherman for forty-five years, Starks helped start Lummi Island Wild after moving to the island in 1992. He now enjoys his role as marketing manager of the business, which employs eco-friendly reefnet fishing practices, an historic Pacific Northwest method once used throughout the Salish Sea by its many indigenous peoples.

In addition to its variety of salmon offerings, Lummi Island Wild sells products ranging from Alaskan weathervane scallops and sablefish (black cod) steaks to 1-pound packages of frozen spot prawns. Lummi Island Wild buys its spot prawns live and exclusively from tribal fishermen of the Salish Sea, who are the first permitted into the waters every April, before sport and commercial fishermen get access.

Spot prawns are hermaphroditic, meaning they start life as males and later transition to females. When in perfect condition, they should have a green hue that’s a bit translucent. The prawns turn red when they are stressed, and this serves as a danger sign. First, the heads turn black, sending enzymes to the rest of the body that renders that meat soft, mushy and inedible. Despite the challenges of having to navigate this narrow window, Starks explained, “Spot prawns are significantly better than any other prawn you can find on the market.”

Lummi Island Wild sources an array of buying clubs, restaurants and regional resorts (like Semiahmoo and Cedarbrook Lodge’s Copperleaf Restaurant). It also has what it calls a “win-win” relationship with Puget Sound Food Hub (PSFH), an innovative farmer-owned cooperative—or a “digital farmers market” that connects Western Washington farmers with wholesale buyers online.” They’ve been a lifesaver to us in many ways,” Starks said, “and I think we’ve been a lifesaver to them, too.”

In yet another endeavor, Starks recently launched a nonprofit called The Salish Center for Sustainable Fishing Methods. Two of the organization’s aims, he said, are to “give recognition to what it is that is harvested in the Salish Sea” as well as to realize the importance of cherishing and protecting this natural wonder.

When it comes to preparing and serving spot prawns, it’s a fine art. “The key to spot prawns is to not overcook them,” said Mitch Mayers, executive chef and owner of Ballard’s Sawyer 24 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

APRIL | MAY 2019

Spot prawns can be prepared in a variety of ways.

restaurant. “They cook exceptionally fast.” In the summer months, he deems a simple and light French stew the best way to show off the prawns and their distinctive sweet flavor.

At Willows, Starks also used to organize popular wine dinners, and he recalls one in particular that featured Portland chef Vitaly Paley. “A lot of chefs don’t get the chance to work with live prawns and don’t know what to do with them,” Starks said. Paley, however, knew just what to do. After heating salt mixed with aromatics and a little oil in a 600-degree woodstove oven, Paley poured the hot salt over a bowl of live prawns. The end result? ”Absolutely the best spot prawns I’ve ever had in my life,” Starks said. On that note, we’re adding these local treasures to the list of items our palate anticipates in the months to come.

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cannonbeach.org

farm to table

Alaskan Spot Prawns with Polenta Tortelletti, Truffled Sunchoke and Pancetta

Washington Recipes

Hitting the Spot

SEATTLE / AQUA by El Gaucho Kevin Benner SERVES 4

Spot Prawn Matelote

Parsley, to taste Lemon juice, to taste

SEATTLE / Sawyer Mitch Mayers SERVES 2

½ teaspoon saffron threads ¼ cup hot water 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 cloves of garlic thinly sliced, divided 1 large onion, chopped 2 ounces brandy 1 cup white wine 2 heirloom tomatoes, diced 2 cups button (or wild) mushrooms,

cut into ¼ slices 4 medium potatoes, peeled and

cut into 8 1-inch chunks 4 cups chicken stock 1 pound spot prawns, peeled

and cleaned Butter, to taste Salt, to taste

Spot Prawns with Shiso-Oyster Emulsion, Lime and Sea Salt

SEATTLE / RockCreek Seafood & Spirits Eric Donnelly SERVES 4 AS AN APPETIZER 8 head-on spot prawns 1 cup seasoned Wondra flour ¼ cup olive oil 1 clove garlic, sliced 1 scrape of orange zest 6 jalapeños 8 fresh shiso leaves 3 lime slices 12 ounces of oyster-shiso aioli

(see recipe) 1 pinch of coarse sea salt FOR OYSTER-SHISO AIOLI 1 cup shiso leaf, rough chopped 1 cup cilantro, rough chopped ¼ cup lime juice 4 oysters, shucked 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 cup grape seed oil

26 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

Dissolve saffron threads in hot water.

Heat olive oil in a large heavy pot over a medium-high flame. Sauté garlic until it starts to color, then add onion and mushrooms, and sauté until it softens and takes on a golden color. Add brandy and let cook for 1 minute, then add white wine. When the brandy looks syrupy, add tomatoes and cook them down for 3 minutes. Add the saffron.

Cook for a minute.

Add potatoes and enough stock or water to just cover, then bring to a boil.

Lower heat to medium-low, cover and simmer over a low heat until the potatoes are just tender, about 20 minutes. Salt to taste. Add spot prawns and cook for roughly 1 minute. Add a tablespoon of butter, squeeze of fresh lemon and parsley. Serve with a piece of toast.

Toss the head-on spot prawns in a bowl with the seasoned Wondra flour, gently tossing until they are evenly coated. In a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, add the olive oil and bring up to smoke point. Add the seasoned spot prawns to the oil and sauté them for about 1½ minutes. Flip the prawns in the pan and add garlic, jalapeño, shiso leaf and orange zest. Once the garlic is toasted, remove from the heat.

Plate cooked prawns over a 3-ounce pool of the oyster aioli and garnish with the crispy shiso, garlic chips and jalapeños. Sprinkle a pinch of coarse sea salt to finish.

Add lime wheels to finish the dish.

FOR OYSTER-SHISO AIOLI In a blender, add shiso, cilantro, oysters, lime juice and kosher salt. Blend on medium speed until the oysters and herbs are pureed smooth. Drizzle in grape seed oil until you have achieved a bright green, tangy and vibrant emulsification.

Taste and adjust the salt and acidity level as necessary.

APRIL | MAY 2019

Three 5-pound spot prawns, jumbo or colossal

FOR POLENTA TORTELLETTI 1 cup polenta 3 cups water ½ cup butter ½ cup mascarpone ¼ cup half and half Pinch salt Pasta dough FOR SUNCHOKE PUREE 1 pound sunchokes 1 cup heavy cream 1 tablespoon shallots 1 tablespoon white truffle trim or truffle oil FOR PANCETTA CHIPS 6 ounces pancetta, cubed Canola oil Remove the shells from the prawns and reserve any roe they are carrying. Bring water to a boil and whisk in the polenta and salt. Cook the polenta for 15 minutes on simmer, whisking periodically.

Stir in the butter, half and half and cheese, then cook for another 5 minutes. Chill the filling in refrigerator. When the polenta is set, portion into small balls to fill your tortelletti. This dish can be equally delicious without the pasta—simply keep your polenta hot and serve with the prawns.

Slice the sunchokes into 1-inch pieces, cover with water in a stock pot and bring to a boil with the shallots. Once the water has reduced and the sunchokes are soft to the touch, add the cream and truffles or oil. Bring to a boil and carefully blend.

Sauté pancetta with a little canola oil until browned, then set aside.

Sauté spot prawns in butter and add prawn roe. This should take 2-3 minutes depending on the size of the prawn. Remove the cooked prawns, but save the pan and liquid the prawns were cooked in.

Cook pasta in boiling water. Once al dente, remove from water and toss with remaining spot prawn cooking liquid. Sauté the pasta until the liquid is reduced enough to coat the pasta and create a delicious sauce.

Spoon the sunchoke puree into bowls, top with pasta and spot prawns, garnish with fresh herbs, truffle peels or truffle oil, and pancetta.

Alaskan Spot Prawns with Polenta Tortelletti from AQUA by El Gaucho.

APRIL | MAY 2019

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home + design

Back to Basics

Two kitchen makeovers embrace classic black-and-white schemes

Photos: Eugene Michel Photography

written by Melissa Dalton

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home + design

FROM LEFT Vaulted ceilings and big windows transformed this Spokane kitchen. The simple white tile goes to the ceiling.

Spokane: A Crisp Renovation Brings a Family Together WHEN SHELLY TRACY and her husband bought their Spokane home fifteen years ago, it wasn’t the house that sold them. “What drew us to the home was the lot,” Tracy said. “The house was something that we did not love.” Their 6-acre, tree-lined property is located near the Little Spokane River Natural Area, making it feel much like a nature preserve itself. But the original house there, built in 1985, had a cramped layout with windows that didn’t connect to the natural surroundings, starting with the tight, galley-style kitchen.

Around 2017, the couple contemplated whether to relocate or renovate. Then they met with builder Cameron Rippy of Rippy Homes and designer Oscar Torres, principal of Design Services Northwest. During the meeting, Torres proposed flipping the floorplan. “My suggestion was to move the kitchen to the south to expand the glass and expand the amount of light,” Torres said. Doing that, in conjunction with removing walls and inserting big windows, created better flow between the

previously segmented living areas.

Vaulting the ceiling also increased the sense of spaciousness in the existing footprint. “Basically, we took the same space that was there, and we made it feel like we doubled it in size,” Torres said.

Now, black cabinetry with Shakerstyle fronts anchors the kitchen. A simple white tile backsplash frames 6-foot tall windows, then climbs to the ceiling. “There are so many gorgeous tiles out there now,” Tracy said, “but I didn’t want it to compete against the view.” Upper cabinets received a coat of white paint so the boxes recede into the tile while ensuring Tracy has her storage needs satisfied.

An 8-foot-long island wrapped in quartz makes a visual statement, thanks to a striking waterfall treatment and thoughtful placement of the veining on the slab. “As I was picking out the quartz material, it was really important to me to have that movement extend all the way from the top down the side so it looks like a waterfall,” Tracy said. The island serves to protect the

APRIL | MAY 2019

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 29

Kelly Clare Photography

home + design

Timeless white subway tile, a custom hood and an apron sink make this kitchen blog-ready.

kitchen work triangle from the rest of the open-concept plan, and Tracy said the induction cooktop doesn’t get hot to the touch, only when cookware makes contact. “I have nine grandkids and they’re always up on that island, so it’s nice to know that I don’t have to worry about their safety,” Tracy said.

Now, the new kitchen windows overlook the canopy. “It feels like I’m in this treehouse and part of nature,” Tracy said.

Even better, the more functional setup makes her family’s large gatherings easier. “The kitchen work area is now its own space,” Torres said, so people don’t need to intercept the cook’s path to grab a snack or drink. Of course, there are exceptions, such as when the grandkids got restless last Christmas. “They were racing around the island with their scooters, which was pretty fun to watch,” Tracy said. “And I was still able to cook.”

Woodway: A Three-Week Remodel Gets a Blogger’s Kitchen Up to Scratch Thirteen years ago, Jenny Keller was home with her infant daughter when she decided to whip up a basic sugar cookie recipe.

After following all the steps, the outcome of her efforts was less than tasty. “The cookies were horrible,” Keller said. “So that put me on a path of perfecting my own version.” Keller succeeded, eventually piping a buttercream frosting on top, and generously shared her confections, which her mother affectionately dubbed “Jenny Cookies.” That became the name of Keller’s blog documenting her creative baking endeavors. These days, the blog has bloomed into a lifestyle site, and Keller has since opened a specialty bakery in Lake Stevens, written two cookbooks, and regularly works with national brands to create content.

More recently, readers have been following along as Keller and her family moved into their Woodway home. After 30 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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renovating their previous 1937 farmhouse, this house’s appeal lay elsewhere. “It was done enough to where I could do updates, but I wouldn’t have to tear it down and start over,” Keller said.

Since Keller both lives and works in her kitchen, that was one of the first rooms to get a makeover. “I’m a baker and a blogger, and I needed a space to shoot in, let alone do real-life cooking,” Keller said. Working with her contractor and a strategic list of changes, Keller was able to turn it around in just three weeks.

The basic layout stayed the same, so Keller started by making a focal point of the stove wall. First, she removed several upper cabinets and a too-low range hood. Next went the dated green tile backsplash, which cast a sallow reflection. It was swapped out for traditional subway tile in an offset brick pattern. “Styles change so quickly, so I like to go with timeless,” Keller said. Then the contractor fashioned a custom range hood and floating shelves from reclaimed wood, to bring warmth to the black-andwhite scheme. A new suite of appliances, including a stainlesssteel Wolf range and SubZero refrigerator, are the workhorses that will keep her business booming.

At the island, Keller first decommissioned a poorly located prep sink so she had more room to roll out cookie dough. “Why would you have a prep sink a foot away from the other sink?

I wanted to have more counter space,” Keller said. Next, she installed a classic apron sink, and finished off the counter with white quartz. A strip of black granite on the perimeter counter provides pleasing contrast. At a nearby built-in hutch, Keller repeated the subway tile and granite counter treatment for continuity, tying in the separate area with the larger space and ensuring it all flows together.

The new kitchen is all about the details that make a difference, just as Keller knew when she perfected her first recipe all those years ago. “It all started with a cookie,” Keller said.

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home + design

Little changes, like a new tile backsplash, can make a big difference.

DIY: Easy Kitchen Upgrades SOMETIMES A GUT RENOVATION isn’t an option, so we’re taking improvement inspiration from Jenny Keller’s project. “Little touches make a huge statement,” Keller said. She recommends identifying first what features can be worked with and what you absolutely can’t live with anymore. Here are a few suggested cosmetic changes that can revive a tired space.

1 SWITCH HARDWARE

REPAINT

Do as Keller suggests and “start small and go from there.” Hardware is a fun way to experiment, whether you prefer the quirky pulls from Anthropologie or a streamlined cabinet pull from Rejuvenation. If replacing the existing hardware with a different size, be aware that you may need to fill in the holes and touch up the cabinet finish.

2 CHANGE LIGHTING

4

Keller had recessed lights installed in the soffit above her stove wall, which lighten up the space for both cooking and photo shoots. If you want to incorporate a little more bling—lighting is called the jewelry of the room, after all—consider trading boring flush-mounts with ones that have more character. Just make sure the room retains enough light to see the cutting board clearly.

32 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

Never underestimate the power of paint to transform. This is the easiest and least expensive option. Kitchen too dark? Opt for a light color to brighten up the space. Or, choose a new hue that picks up the undertones of the existing counters and cabinets. If there’s time, paint the cabinets to really pack a punch.

APRIL | MAY 2019

BEAUTIFY THE BACKSPLASH

There are so many options when it comes to refreshing a backsplash, from traditional ceramic tiles or glass mosaics, to brick veneer or pressed tin. There are even peel-and-stick tile sheets for a low-commitment change-up. Just check that your choice will comply with heat from the stove, as well as withstand water and grease splatters.

home + design

Back in Black Add a pop of black to bring interest to unexpected spots in your kitchen

Michelle Aaro started the Portland-based Cedar & Moss in 2013 after she moved into a Mid-century home and couldn’t find any light fixtures that fit her new abode. Now, designs like the Isle Rod Pendant expertly blend old and new. Create a striking moment by hanging the matte black versions over a counter. www.cedarandmoss.com

The freestanding Vadholma Kitchen Island offers extra prep space, undercounter seating for guests, and two shelves for storage. Add the optional rack and it can also hang pots and mixing spoons within reach. Is anyone surprised this hardworking multitasker is from IKEA?

The Elroy Finger Pull and Cabinet Knob from Rejuvenation is a little Art Deco, a little modern, and will add a finishing touch to any cabinet. The solid brass hardware comes in an inky oil-rubbed bronze, or can be combined with aged brass for swanky mixed-metal contrast. www.rejuvenation.com

www.ikea.com APRIL | MAY 2019

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 33

mind + body

Walking Her Way Nancy Herron combines fitness with an adventurous spirit written by Viki Eierdam photography by Ingrid McQuivey

Nancy Herron runs on a favorite trail near her home.

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mind + body

“IT’S NEVER TOO LATE” is an oftused mantra. There are those who wistfully recite its promise, and then there are the Nancy Herrons of the world. At the age of 64, Herron found herself 40 pounds overweight with knee problems and a menu of failed diets in her rearview mirror. It was then that she set her sights on a dream adventure she’d been entertaining for more than two decades.

“I had a friend who mentioned The Way of St. James about twenty-plus years ago,” Herron said, referring to the Camino de Santiago in Spain. “It was always in the back of my mind, but I knew it had to be at a time in life when I had the time” At a crossroads, she joined a local Weight Watchers group, enrolled in a Jazzercise class, began walking and running consistently and booked a flight to Paris for six months in the future.

Since 2014, Herron has walked El Camino Francés and El Camino Norte in Spain and The Way of St. Francis in Italy—to celebrate milestone birthdays 65, 67 and 69.

She celebrates her seventieth birthday October 1, 2019, as she traverses 382 miles from Lisbon to Santiago de Compostela on the

Camino Portugués. The camino ends at the same pilgrimage destination as the other routes, but Herron views it as less strenuous. Plus, she looks forward to experiencing the scenery and gastronomy with close friends Lee and Sue Sayers.

Along with long walks, Herron attends a weekly yoga class, has found a kinship with her Jazzercise group and participates in a fun run at least monthly. She also trains for half-marathons and marathons throughout the year, and will race in a qualifier for the 2020 Boston Marathon at the end of April.

Herron stays motivated with the camaraderie of other runners, like the North County Running Club and the Ditzy Chicks—about ten female runners who are 60 and older. Solo or as a relay team, Herron finds great joy in promoting older female runners and being a mentor for younger women coming up in the sport.

“I did the Chicago Marathon when I was 68 with my daughter (Kelly). Our goal is to qualify and run Boston together,” Herron said. “I just cannot believe how blessed my life is and I think that’s why I keep doing these caminos.”

Since 2014, Herron has walked El Camino Francés and El Camino Norte in Spain and The Way of St. Francis in Italy—to celebrate milestone birthdays 65, 67 and 69. She celebrates her seventieth birthday October 1, 2019, as she traverses 382 miles from Lisbon to Santiago de Compostela on the Camino Portugués.

APRIL | MAY 2019

Nancy Herron

Globetrekker and Runner Age: 69 Born: Salem, Ohio Residence: Battle Ground, Washington

WORKOUT Herron runs 4 to 5 miles per day most days. She also attends a Jazzercise class and yoga. During half marathon or marathon training, she gradually increases distance to 60 miles per week, then cuts back to 20 miles one week for recovery and, over another three-week rotation, increases up to 60.

Because of her consistent jogging, long training walks are not necessary for aerobic conditioning but to allow her body to acclimate to a 16-pound backpack and the cadence of trekking poles and hiking boots.

NUTRITION With a successful Weight Watchers education under her belt, Herron sticks to a menu of fruits, vegetables and lean meats four to five days a week, which frees her up to enjoy more social eating on the weekends. On European treks, carbohydrates fuel her long days, and she staves off sluggishness by staying hydrated.

INSPIRATION “My grandmother was ahead of her time back in the ’50s.

She was a strong, independent woman. She loved baseball.

She wore trousers. She was a businesswoman (she owned a bar). Just watching her made me feel that I could be much more. I could be a strong woman and still be respected.

She was a dynamo and where my spirit of adventure comes from.”

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artist in residence

Small Town Revival

Artisan incubator buoys an entire town written by Catie Joyce-Bulay photography by Terray Sylvester

ON THE OUTSIDE, Yakima Valley’s Mighty Tieton looks like an abandoned warehouse. Its name hangs above a mustard-colored door not quite covering the previous owner’s sign. The deep blue mosaic T, surrounded by cheery yellow, is the only hint that inside, this artisan business incubator is aflutter with creative energy.

In one studio, a young woman glues tiny blue glass tiles onto a large, paper-covered easel. The tiles will eventually form a large-scale replica of an old apple crate label destined for display downtown as part of a National Endowment for the Arts-funded project.

The room around her, encased in shiny silver insulation, is a rainbow of mosaics made by the fledgling Tieton Mosaic.

Steve Morgan, of Naches, uses a 1921 Chandler & Price clamshell press in the Paper Hammer studio in Mighty Tieton.

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2019

Artist Alice Blaschke with her interactive mural “Buteo Jamaicensis, Red-Tailed Hawk.“ Photo by Jennifer Moreland, corvallismurals.com.

Undiscovered trails.

Undiscovered innovation.

Undiscovered tastes.

Undiscovered

visitcorvallis.com/art

800.334.8118

Stumble upon fascinating public sculptures and dozens of colorful murals. Wander a gallery or museum. Catch a show or concert.

Come visit Corvallis and Benton County, and discover what you’ve been missing.

artist in residence

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Ed Marquand is the owner of Mighty Tieton. Apprentice Jeremy Castillo, of Yakima, works in the Tieton Mosaic studio. The exterior of the Mighty Tieton warehouse complex.

Maria Solorio, manager of the Paper Hammer book bindery, works in the bindery studios. The Trimpin Sound Space gallery features various sound sculptures. Steve Morgan, lead artist at Tieton Mosaic, cuts glass for a mosaic apple label.

At the other end of the 40,000-square-foot former apple packing warehouse is Paper Hammer Studios, where most of the clever cards and paper goods in its Seattle storefront are handmade on silk screens and antique letterpresses.

Tucked between an industrial-meets-rustic events space and art gallery is Trimpin Sound Space, a kaleidoscope of both color and sound, where Seattle’s renowned sound artist Trimpin tinkers on projects and houses his Dr. Seuss-like collection of musical sculptures.

Behind another rolling wood-plank door is Goathead Press, run by artist Karen Quint, who rents out the space to other artists and uses it to make her woodblock and copper etching prints inspired by the surrounding hills, valley and sky.

The name of the press is a nod to the goat-head shaped thorns that started it all for Mighty Tieton owner Ed Marquand. One day in 2005, Marquand, a Seattle fine arts book publisher who has a cabin nearby, decided to ride his bike into Tieton. He popped both tires on goatheads and spent the day repairing the tires in the town center’s park. While doing so, he noticed he was surrounded on all sides by abandoned storefronts, which sparked an idea.

He spent that summer inviting creative friends from Seattle to sit in the grassy park and brainstorm potential businesses to fill the spaces, which led to buying up several of the abandoned 38 1889 WASHINGTONS’S MAGAZINE APRIL | MAY

2019

buildings. In 2007, he turned one—a warehouse closed since 1992—into loft-style condominiums. Next, he converted the neighboring warehouse into Mighty Tieton, where both private studios and those under the Mighty Tieton umbrella continue to evolve and thrive.

It’s impossible to talk about Mighty Tieton without also talking about the community. Marquand, who blends artistic inspiration with business savvy, saw early that Tieton, a town of roughly 1,200 surrounded by apple orchards in upper Yakima Valley, had affordability and proximity to Seattle going for it. What it lacked, in the aftermath of its agricultural heyday, was jobs.

“Our business model is hands-across-the-Cascades, so our creative ideas and clientele are in Seattle and the people who create it and design it live here and get the benefit of that,” said Marquand, who resides in downtown Seattle, but spends about three-quarters of his time in Tieton.

“The space was what attracted us in the first place, but once we started these businesses it became very evident that it’s the quality of the people who are here,” he said. “Every day they’re here they get better and better at doing something that is really high-level craftsmanship and consistency.”

Take Maria Solorio. Formerly a cashier manager in a bank in Mexico, she now manages the book bindery of Marquand

artist in residence

Editions, which creates high-end handmade art books.

“Maria’s been with me for twelve years now and she’d never bound a book when she started working for us, but now she’s really one of the best production book binders in the country,” Marquand said.

Solorio, who lives in nearby Cowiche, said she has enjoyed every aspect of her job since the first day.

Then there’s Steve Morgan. He was laid off from a seasonal job with an irrigation company, saw an opening at Tieton Mosaic and, without any professional art background, six years later is lead artist of the mosaic studio and runs Paper Hammer’s letterpress. Some days he also drives a forklift in the shipping department, because all of Mighty Tieton’s eighteen employees are cross-trained in each business.

“I believe that creative people have much more economic savvy and potential than people give them credit for,” said Marquand while sitting at a family-style table in 617, a chic tapas bar he’s installed in one of the abandoned buildings.

The tapas bar acts as both a community space and a draw for visitors. “I also think people like that can be plugged into other social problems or situations and might bring different perspective to very familiar problems—in this case, how do small towns stay relevant? How do they continue to exist?”

“The space was what attracted us in the first place, but once we started these businesses it became very evident that it’s the quality of the people who are here. Every day they’re here they get better and better at doing something that is really high-level craftsmanship and consistency.”

— Ed Marquand, Mighty Tieton owner APRIL | MAY 2019

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 39

STARTUP 42 WHAT’S GOING UP 44 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 46 MY WORKSPACE 49

pg. 42 Plover sells flower seed kits in addition to its organic linens.

Shelby Eaton

GAME CHANGER 50

INSPIRED

Mount Baker Wilderness Area

BE INSPIRED by the breathtaking natural beauty of Whatcom County. SPRING outdoors to visit the local Farmers Markets, taste your way along the Tap Trail, or enjoy adventures by land and sea.

Alaska Ferry from Bellingham

Schooner Zodiac

@BellinghamExperience

bellingham.org

startup

The Cutting Garden Collection include seeds as well as plant care instructions.

Garden in a Box

A local linens company has expanded its offerings to include flower seeds written by Cara Strickland IN 2007, SISTERS-IN-LAW Marisa Mercer and Sheila Mulvihill began looking around for organic textiles with style for their growing families, but all they could find was white. Both avid collectors of vintage, the pair drew inspiration from their favorites, playing with color and scale to make linens that felt more modern. That idea became Plover, which specializes in organic cotton bedding, curtains and table wear with personality.

Around the same time, Mercer and her husband moved into a house with a large yard. Though she hadn’t done much gardening before, it soon became her passion. She’s always reading books and magazines about gardening, and she regularly travels to the UK to glean horticultural secrets.

Though Plover textiles were initially featured in stores across the country—you might recognize them from Anthropologie— last spring the duo opted for a smaller business model, selling directly to consumers exclusively through the website.

Along with that change, Mercer began to wonder how her love of gardening might fit in with Plover. She’d noticed that when friends came over, they would always compliment her garden.

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“I would just give my friends seeds, bring plants over, or give them tubers,” Mercer said. “It would be kind of fun to just put together basically what I’m already doing in my own garden and just give them to friends.” These gifts formed the beginning of the idea for Plover’s new Cutting Garden Collection, which features a selection of seeds, tubers and step-by-step instructions, all wrapped in a Plover tea towel.

Whether you’re a novice gardener or more experienced, it’s likely you find unfamiliar seeds in these kits. “I really love unusual seeds, things that you don’t see at the nursery,” Mercer said. “The idea was to get some unusual things in there so that in the garden people will be like ‘I’ve never seen that before. What is that?’ Really putting together plants that look great, almost like a painter’s palette.”

To create the kits, Mercer started with color schemes. “I think that’s how most people buy flowers,” she said. “I’m the same way—I’m drawn to certain colors in the garden. I also love flower arranging—sometimes you’ll see a beautiful bouquet and you’ll see the way colors are combined and I like to try and re-create that in a planting scheme.”

Beyond color, Mercer chose annuals that were easiest to grow and had the best “garden habits” (they didn’t completely take over, and they looked pretty even when they were dying) so that they would work with a variety of climates and skill levels. She’s confident these kits will thrive throughout the continental US. Though Mercer picked some of her favorite combinations, she also invited Solabee Flowers and Botanicals, of Portland,

startup

“I really love unusual seeds, things that you don’t see at the nursery. The idea was to get some unusual things in there so that in the garden people will be like ‘I’ve never seen that before.

What is that?’ Really putting together plants that look great, almost like a painter’s palette.”

— Marisa Mercer, co-owner of Plover Organic

Photos: Shelby Eaton

Oregon, to create two collections. “One of their collections— we’re calling it Victorian Christmas—is orange, red and yellow— definitely not colors I have in the garden. I planted them and it looked amazing. I was like, ‘I would never have chosen these, but they are great.’” That’s an experience she hopes will be repeated often for her customers.

This year, Plover will offer five kits, available to ship from early March (though the tubers will need to be in the ground by the first week of June). Each kit is a limited run, and Mercer is planning to change it up for next year, choosing a new floral designer to curate a collection and mixing up the kits she’s designing herself. Keep your eyes open for fall kits, which will bloom in the spring, as well.

For Mercer, one of the kits’ priorities is to make gardening fun and accessible for people at all stages. “You can give the kit as a gift. The instructions are really explicit. Everything is going to be blooming at the same time—different heights, different textures, all the colors will look great together,” she said. “It’s also great for experienced gardeners because a lot of these are seeds that you don’t see very often.” Even if you don’t have a yard, this garden can be planted in a container as small as 12 inches in diameter.

Though the garden kits are created to beautify the outdoor space, they are also designed to make the indoors more lovely, as the name suggests. “Your flowers will look beautiful outside, but then you can cut them and bring them inside,” Mercer said. “You can have them by your bedside, your children can pick them— it’s the best of both worlds.”

AT RIGHT Once the garden kits bloom, you can cut a colorful bouquet for your home.

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what’s going up?

Home Sweet Home New condos and apartments rise up in cities around the state

The Fairhaven Tower is expected to open this summer.

written by Sheila G. Miller

Zervas Architects

URBAN LIVING IS coming to a city near you in 2019.

In Bellingham, the Fairhaven Tower is expected to open this summer. According to The Bellingham Herald, the five-story building will be built on a prominent corner in the Fairhaven District that once housed a gas station, and the building will have thirty-five apartments and a fifth floor with penthouse homes. The Fairhaven Tower is designed to look similar to a historic building, the Fairhaven Hotel, that was previously on the site.

Richland is also on its way to having more apartment space. Park Place, a 104unit apartment complex, is slated to break ground soon near Howard Amon Park and the Columbia River. The project will replace a longtime eye sore in the community, commonly called The Pit, along George Washington Way. The 106-unit project will have underground parking, ground-level retail and apartments in the Tri-Cities’ first mid-rise complex, according to the Tri-City Herald.

And up in Spokane, a long-awaited project may just get underway soon. 1400 Tower, on West Riverside Avenue, is expected to be a fourteen-story condo tower with fifty-five highend condominiums all tucked into downtown.

The only problem? The project still hasn’t broken ground, meaning its 2019 opening date is now a big TBD. That said, when complete, the project will remake the Spokane skyline.

44 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE APRIL | MAY

2019

what i’m working on

Evening the Playing Field WSU doctor seeks to change east-west health divide interview by Kevin Max

IN FEBRUARY, Ofer Amram, an assistant professor at Washington State University Elson S. Floyd College of Medicine, along with colleagues, published data from their research that showed a profound difference in the mortality rates of Washington residents from eastern and western Washington. We caught up with Dr. Amram to distill the results.

What was the impetus for the study?

The study originated in an east-west Washington comparison to examine where there was the greatest need for new medical residents from the College of Medicine. And in eastern Washington, there are far fewer medical residencies. We thought we’d look at different health outcomes to determine where we would have the most impact. We want to locate the new medical program residents where there are poorer health outcomes.

Was there anything that shocked you in the data?

The surprise was the extent to which some of the diseases were worse in eastern Washington. We can look at diabetes, chronic lower respiratory diseases and cerebrovascular diseases as examples where the mortality rates are far greater in eastern Washington than in western Washington.

Talk about the methodology.

Ofer Amram, an assistant professor at WSU’s College of Medicine, studied mortality rates in Washington.

We got the data from the Washington Department of Health. We analyzed five years of data, from 2011 to 2016.

The interesting thing is that we have the exact location of residency of the people in the study, which will allow us a high resolution. The aim of that mapping exercise was to provide access to the public and policymakers, as well as decisionmakers at the college, to understand where disparities exist in health care and where they want to focus the residents’ efforts.

What are the key findings?

The key finding is that eastern Washington counties suffer from higher mortality rates in all ten of the state’s leading causes of death than western Washington counties. The twenty counties comprising eastern Washington suffer from higher rates of cancer, heart disease, Alzheimer’s disease, unintentional injuries, chronic lower respiratory diseases, stroke, diabetes, suicide, chronic liver disease and flu. Although not in the top ten,

overdose-related death is higher in western Washington. Access to care and socioeconomic environment are the major drivers of healthcare access, and access to healthy foods. I think the main thing for us next is untangling the causes behind the higher rates. We want to know why.

How much does poverty play a role?

Poverty plays a primary role in this study. It encompassed many things, including access to health centers, access to insurance, access to transportation and to healthy foods. Poverty, for me, is the key. If you come out of poverty, it can improve many of these factors and, ultimately, your health.

How does this data get used by the WSU College of Medicine?

It will help us identify where to site the new resident programs based on need. It will help us track progress in the health of these communities moving forward—specific diseases and specific locations over time.

“Poverty plays a primary role in this study. It encompassed many things, including access to health centers, access to insurance, access to transportation and to healthy foods. ... If you come out of poverty, it can improve many of these factors and, ultimately, your health.”

— Ofer Amram, assistant professor at WSU Elson S. Floyd College of Medicine 46 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

APRIL | MAY 2019

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my workspace

Located on pedestrian-friendly Front Street in Lynden, Jansen Art Center is 22,000 square feet, full of six creative art studios, a performance hall, two floors of exhibit space, a gallery shop and a cafe. Affectionately known as “The J,” it is an incubator for artists of all ages.

Creativity is Calling Jansen Art Center brings art to the people written by Viki Eierdam

Jansen Art Center

Since opening in 2012, The J’s reputation as a place for artists to create, share and engage has spread beyond Whatcom County to Anacortes, Gig Harbor, San Juan Island and Canada. Annual events such as the “Falling Out of the Box” campaign—where jewelry and metal artists can purchase a box of themed materials and mail in their completed work—even draw artists from places like Colorado and Pennsylvania.

Inside The J, visitors will find a rotating juried art exhibit as well as a textile studio with a large range of looms, ceramic studio with multiple wheels and jewelry studio that emphasizes metalwork and stone setting. Each art medium offers public classes, workshops and directive independent studies. At the center of it all on the main floor is Firehall Café—part wine bar, part eatery and part live music venue. A nod to the building’s past as City Hall and the town fire department, old fire station doors open up to sidewalk seating and the elevated back deck is the perfect perch for pastoral views.

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1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 49

game changer

The Power of Music

FROM TOP Shelby Earl performs during a Music Heals event about mental health in 2018. John Richards, seen here speaking at the same event, is a KEXP host who started the program.

KEXP streams the on-air healing

“MUSIC IS EVERYTHING in the healing process,” said KEXP Morning Show host John Richards. “I hear from listeners every day about a song or lyric that helped them process, grieve or just move on.”

If you think that KEXP (on the Seattle dial at 90.3 FM and streamed at KEXP.org worldwide) is your ordinary, napinducing, public radio station—think again. KEXP is a listenerpowered, DJ-driven tour de force that plays cutting-edge music, a dizzying roster of music shows, and live in-studio performances from some of the best bands on the planet.

If that weren’t enough, KEXP is also tackling such issues as addiction, mental health and suicide.

“It really started when my mom died fourteen years ago,” said Richards, the DJ behind the genesis of the station’s signature Music Heals series. “I went on the air and started talking about my mom’s death and playing music that fit how I was feeling, and listeners started calling in to share their own personal experiences.” To Richards, the response he received was comforting—and overwhelming. “I realized that people needed a place to go, a community, to talk about their grief,” he said.

This triggered Richards to create the Mom Show, a heartfelt program he holds on the anniversary of his mother’s death every year. From there, things just evolved. “Each year, the Mom Show became less about my mom and more about the one thing we all share—grief. And so Music Heals was born.”

Today, KEXP’s Music Heals has grown to include four farreaching platforms. In the winter, listeners get a specially programmed day of Music Heals: Beyond Cancer, where 50 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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DJs ask listeners— and experts and guest musicians—to share their stories about how cancer has touched their lives and the music they use to cope. In late spring and early summer, Music Heals focuses on addiction and recovery; late summer and early fall is mental health; and in November, it’s mortality and music. Each Music Heals is twelve hours of on-air outreach and connection, of playing song requests and reading listeners’ stories, and holding interviews with people who have been affected by the subjects at hand. Music Heals live events are held as well—last year’s sold-out Death and Music event at Seattle’s Washington Hall included musicians such as Super Krew and Shawn Smith, and is a sure sign that Music Heals is striking a chord.

“The goal of Music Heals is to get people to talk about death, or mental-health issues, or suicide or cancer,” Richards said.

“It’s to create a safe community and to normalize these things that make people feel like they’re alone. KEXP wants you to know that you’re not alone.”

Richards said it’s only natural that KEXP is at the forefront of the healing movement. “The one thing we all have in common is music,” he said. “Music can tell stories you can’t.

The lyrics and melodies can make you feel better. That’s where the healing begins.”

MORE ONLINE

To tune in or for more information on KEXP and Music Heals: Addiction and Recovery in May, go to www.kexp.org/musicheals

Photos: Morgen Schuler/KEXP

written by Michelle Kehm

SUMMER AT CENTRUM

Located in historic Fort Worden State Park, in Port Townsend, WA.

7 FESTIVALS | 90 EVENTS | 350 ARTISTS | ONE EXTRAORDINARY PLACE FEATURED ARTISTS

JUNE THROUGH SEPTEMBER CHAMBER MUSIC VOICE WORKS FIDDLE TUNES WRITERS’ CONFERENCE JAZZ ACOUSTIC BLUES Above: Danielle Ate UKULELE the Sandwich

Danielle Ate the Sandwich

Jazz: Anat Cohen, René Marie, Gerald Clayton, Terell Stafford, George Cables Blues: Junious Brickhouse, Jontavious Willis, Phil Wiggins, Valerie Turner, Revered Robert Jones Fiddle Tunes: Genticorum, Fru Skagerrak, Frankie Gavin, Mitch Reed, Vivian Williams Voice Works: Pharis Romero, Peter Rowan, Bill & the Belles, Emily Millard, Brian Ó hAirt Writers: Kim Barnes, Daniel Orozco, Carl Phillips, Robert Wrigley, Paisley Rekdal Chamber Music: American String Quartet, Lucinda Carver, Kronos Quartet Ukulele: Daniel Ho, Danielle Ate the Sandwich, Bryan Tolentino, Brook Adams FOR DETAILS: CENTRUM.ORG As always, tickets for youth under 18 are free!

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This large family getaway on Useless Bay is a perfect jumping-off point for watersports.

Photo: Andrew Giammarco

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WITH WATER ALL AROUND WASHINGTON, THESE SHORELINE HOMES HAVE PLENTY TO OFFER

COASTAL COOL written by Melissa Dalton

A QUICK GLANCE at a map shows the distance between Washington’s northern tip at Neah Bay and southern boundary at the Columbia River is less than 200 miles. But once you account for the many islands, sounds, bays and rivers, the official coastline length increases to a whopping 3,026 miles of secluded beaches, tree-lined inlets, bustling ports and small fishing communities set at the water’s edge. We’re peeking inside three stellar home designs that celebrate the state’s coastal riches.

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1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 53

A LOG CABIN RESPITE ON HENRY ISLAND Kristina Gladstein’s log cabin on Henry Island was not always as serene as it looks today. When she first stepped inside the 1950s-era building, it had no electricity, no running water and a “pseudobathroom” that consisted of a composting toilet and little else. The logs themselves were almost black from age and smoke damage, which made the interior gloomy, as well as dysfunctional.

“It just looked so dark and ominous in there,” Gladstein said. She wondered whether she should save the structure, or tear it down and build anew.

The first step was to determine if the wood was salvageable.

Gladstein tried pressure-washing, with little success. When applying a coat of white-wash didn’t help either, she bought a few cans of white paint. “Everybody told me that they thought it was a terrible idea,” Gladstein said, but the outcome was a game changer.

“Once I saw the logs painted white, we knew that we were going to keep it,” Gladstein said. “I was in awe of the transformation.”

She then teamed up with local contractor Tom Nolan to rehab the rest of the home in a multiyear process that included treating the exterior, installing mechanical systems and a new roof, and adding two bathrooms, a mudroom and laundry. Two years into the renovation, Gladstein approached Lisa Staton of Lisa Staton Interior Design to help pull everything together.

The resulting cabin retains its utilitarian spirit. At the heart, a combination kitchen and dining room is ready for family meal prep, with copious counters and an island laden with accessible 54 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

1

2

1) The log cabin on Henry Island was renovated, but still maintains its utilitarian spirit.

2) White paint brightens the interior.

3) Moving the refrigerator to the pantry opened up the kitchen.

Photos: Belathée Photography

APRIL | MAY 2019

3

cookware. “It’s intended to be very easy to collaboratively cook and feast and relax,” Staton said.

In order to prevent appliances from dominating the scheme, Staton located the refrigerator in an adjacent pantry. “It changes the way you experience the kitchen,” Staton said. “It helps it feel more furniture-like and integrated into the living space.”

At the top of Gladstein’s punch list was to let the cabin embrace its waterside setting.

“The goal was for it to feel like a retreat deeply rooted in nature,” Staton said. Now, big picture windows overlook Haro Strait and salvaged materials pop up throughout the interior. In the living room, the original stone fireplace joins wide plank floors in reclaimed wood and a liveedge coffee table carved by a local artist. The contractor fashioned a bathroom vanity

by sinking a basin into a thick chunk of wood. The kids room upstairs features bed frames formed from old fence corral posts. “It shows how you don’t need precious materials for good design,” Staton said.

Henry Island is the westernmost island in the San Juan archipelago. With no ferry service and limited cell reception, it’s an ideal retreat from our increasingly technology-crazed world. Gladstein’s cabin offers an “opportunity for restfulness, mindfulness and togetherness that is getting harder to happen,” Staton said. The cabin’s pull was such that after wrapping the project in 2017, Gladstein relocated her family from Seattle to nearby Friday Harbor to adopt full-time island life. “After we did this project, we realized that we couldn’t go back to the city,” Gladstein said.

4

A FAMILY DESTINATION IN USELESS BAY Don’t ask John Zevenbergen if his family is into watersports—a better question might be whether there’s anything they don’t like to do in the bay. “We water ski, scuba dive, go skimboarding and fishing,” Zevenbergen said. Crabbing, windsurfing, sailing, swimming and paddling are also popular pastimes. “Between us we pretty much have a flotilla of boats,” Zevenbergen said. The family’s favorite spot for their pursuits is Useless Bay, which sits across the Puget Sound from Edmonds, where Zevenbergen grew up.

“My family always had a place on Useless Bay,” Zevenbergen said.

His parents bought property there almost sixty years ago, and Zevenbergen continued the tradition in 1995 when he

bought his first cabin. As his own family expanded with children and grandchildren, he bought the neighboring home in 2012, then promptly contacted the architects at Hoedemaker Pfeiffer for a renovation plan. As the project progressed, it made sense to replace the two cabins with one larger home, so anywhere from two to twenty people could be under one roof. Of course, easy access to the water was paramount. “They were looking for something that would allow them to use the property as a base for all of their indoor and outdoor activities year-round,” architect Steve Hoedemaker said.

Useless Bay earned its name around 1841 when the Wilkes Expedition observed its “exposure to storms.” Zevenbergen has

4) A simple palette inside keeps attention on the water outside.

Photo: Andrew Giammarco

APRIL | MAY 2019

seen those squalls up close. “In the winter, there’s so much wind that the waves hit the beach and spray saltwater right on the house,” Zevenbergen said. “The rain blows so hard and so consistently that it goes vertical up the wall.” To address this, the new construction prioritized durability. For the foundation, builder Heggenes Construction propped the home atop concrete piers sunk more than 50 feet into the ground to minimize potential flood damage when the water swells. The exterior received reverse board and batten siding, aluminum-clad windows and a zinc roof and gutter system, with a porch made of hard-wearing Ipe wood.

Inside, the architects applied a restrained palette with rigorous consistency. Wood, concrete, marble and brass deliver a streamlined approach to the classic beach cabin aesthetic. Lightly whitewashed custom-milled spruce wraps the walls and polished concrete covers the floor. Marble slabs line the kitchen counters, inset buffets and appear on bathroom vanities. Brass bedecks cabinet pulls and bedroom lighting, and is also found underfoot as decorative seams in the concrete.

For the layout, bedroom wings flank a central great room. On one side is the principle suite—on the other, several bedrooms with en-suite baths. Thus, the home can accommodate a couple for a weekend, or more for a bigger family shindig. “One of the things that we always like to do is create experiences that allow people to forget about their urban existence and reminders of the work week,” Hoedemaker said. To that end, the central room has a wall of glass doors and windows that frame the view. This ensures the home will always connect Zevenbergen’s family to the bay, whether they’re storm-watching or fueling up for their next episode on the water.

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“It’s really about a different kind of time there, dictated by the tide, weather and natural rhythms.

That’s what makes it special.”

—Ralph Christensen, architect

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ART IN A HISTORIC OYSTERVILLE HOME There is a bench in Oysterville engraved with a quote from Willard R. Espy, an American writer who grew up in the Long Beach Peninsula town. The quote reads, “I can watch the slow breathing of the bay, six hours in and six hours out.” For architect Ralph Christensen, the words capture the vibe of the historic walking village on Willapa Bay. “It’s really about a different kind of time there, dictated by the tide, weather and natural rhythms,” Christensen said. “That’s what makes it special.”

In 2013, Christensen and his partner, Barb, both of the studio Res Loci, were approached to renovate Oysterville’s Captain Stream House, which had been built around 1869. Oysterville was one of the earliest settlements

in coastal Washington and so named for its booming oyster farming industry in the mid1800s. The Captain Stream House sits within the historic district and joined the National Register of Historic Places in 1976. Its owners, Martie Kilmer and husband Steven Romero, sought to preserve the house’s historical significance, while also updating it for the future.

Their team, including the Christensens and contractor Mack Brothers and Sons, started by meticulously restoring the front façade, then bumped out the rear just a few feet to accommodate fluid, open living on the main floor and a much-needed principle suite upstairs. “Our house didn’t really have a bathroom before,” Kilmer said. “We would streak

1) Local artists’ work fills the Oysterville home, including a crocheted curtain by Emily Bixler.

2) The property has a number of outbuildings, which allow activities of all kinds.

Photos: Mikola Accuardi

APRIL | MAY 2019

from the back porch to the garage to take a shower.”

At the rear of the property, the group built a pass-through garage with a two-bedroom guest apartment above it. There’s also a ceramics workshop and extensive garden, just steps away from the main house’s back door.

With this approach, the smaller footprint of the original Captain Stream House remains intact, but the property can flex with the couple’s needs. Christensen appreciates how the setup fits the village’s architectural past: “The spirit of Oysterville was always an amalgamation of small buildings.

People would have their house, a garage, a shed for tools, and a chicken coop and outhouse,” Christensen said. “It’s very much that compound effect of multiple buildings rather than one big building which holds everything.”

Throughout the interiors, art and craft seamlessly mix thanks to Kilmer’s vision and the artists she’s befriended through her work as a stylist and designer.

Brooks Woodworks fabricated the walnut kitchen cabinetry, as well as the custom dining table and benches. Emily Bixler knotted a crocheted curtain over the freestanding tub upstairs, while Doug Johnston wove the rope pendant lights over the dining table. “There’s nothing that’s really mass-produced,” Kilmer said.

Thanks to Kilmer and Romero’s efforts, the Captain Stream House now effortlessly reflects the slower pace in Oysterville and time spent walking, cooking homegrown meals and making art. “When you’re driving from the big city, there’s this turnoff on Sandridge Road,” Kilmer said.

“The second that we make that turn, my shoulders drop and the air changes and I get really relaxed. I still can’t believe that I get to live here.”

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BAPTISM

BY FIRE The view of First Avenue, from Columbia Street, after the Great Fire of 1889. (photo: University of Washington Libraries, Special Collections, A. Curtis 36930)

HOW SEATTLE GREW INTO ITSELF, THANKS TO A DEVASTATING BLAZE written by Sheila G. Miller

WHETHER IT’S BECAUSE OF FRASIER RERUNS, PEARL JAM’S POPULARITY, AMAZON OR STARBUCKS, EVERYONE KNOWS SEATTLE. THE LARGEST CITY IN THE STATE OF WASHINGTON AND IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST IS KNOWN FOR ITS COFFEE, ITS RAIN, ITS MUSIC. But in 1889, the same year Washington became a state, Seattle burned, and that paved the way for Seattle to go from a boom-and-bust timber town to the tech-savvy Space Needle-centered spot we see today.

Tom Walsh, a deputy chief for the Seattle Fire Department, said these types of fires were not uncommon.

“Chicago, Spokane, Boston, New Orleans all had great fires due to the prevalence of construction that enabled quick fire spread, proximity of buildings, lack of adequate water supply and volunteer rather than professional fire departments,” he said.

On June 6, 1889, it was Seattle’s turn.

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1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 59

ccording to the University of Washington’s digital archives, spring in 1889 was sunny and warm, in the 70s with little rain.

The basic, and in some cases incorrect, story goes like this—a woodworking assistant in a shop on Front Street (today, First Avenue) and Madison Avenue was heating glue over a fire. The glue boiled over around 2:15 p.m., catching fire and spreading to the floor, which was covered in turpentine and wood chips. In an attempt to put out the blaze, the assistant doused it in water, but this spread out the turpentine and the fire. The fire department arrived around 2:45 p.m., but with so much smoke it was hard to find the fire’s source, and it spread out of control. The fire department struggled to fight the blaze because water pressure fell, and hoses couldn’t reach the water in Elliott Bay because of low tide.

Page Olson, the president of the Last Resort Fire Department, has spent much of her time researching the Great Seattle Fire. The Last Resort Fire Department is a historical nonprofit dedicated to preserving Seattle’s fire department history through the acquisition of fire trucks and engines. The group has a museum that honors that history—and Olson became the de facto expert on the early history of the city’s firefighting, up until the department no longer used horses.

Olson said there remains a lot of misunderstanding about the fire—how it started, how it grew, and why it ended. She blames the errors on a lack of understanding of Seattle’s topography at the time, as well as people bringing their current understanding of fire—how it burns in modern buildings—to the story.

“If you take what you know today and what Seattle looks like today and make that the baseline, you’re never going to get it right,” she said.

For starters, Seattle in the 1880s looked a lot different.

Around Madison Street, everything west of where First Avenue stands today was underwater. There were bluffs about the height of a one-story building above tidal flats, and then the land rose sharply from there as you headed east, deeper into the city.

It was at First and Madison that the fire started, in the basement of a building that was separated from the next by just a wooden wall.

“This business where the fire began is below grade, which is critically important as the streets at that time were wooden planked streets,” Olson said.

Among Olson’s quibbles with the long-held versions of the fire’s origins? The glue pot.

Five people were working in the cabinetry shop that day, Olson said. “That’s why you get so much erroneous information. Just like any other accident, multiple 60 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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people all give you a different version of what happened.

They’re all looking in different directions or focusing on something different, so they see different things.”

But, Olson said, the original interviews with the employees all agree. John Back cut some glue with scissors and placed it in a glue pot on the top of the wood-burning stove. The stove, Olson said, had a divot specifically designed for the pot. Back threw turpentine-laced shavings into the stove. But the stove got too hot, and, Olson said, the glue spontaneously combusted after passing its ignition point. Fire shot out of the glue pot. Another employee slid a wooden board across the top of the pot to suffocate the fire, Olson said, but it was impossible to seal the top and shut out the oxygen because of two small apertures for the pot’s handle. Soon the board was on fire, too.

Someone threw a bucket of cold water on the fire.

“If it had been warm water, the room wouldn’t have exploded,” Olson said.

The glue exploded and bits of it spewed across the shop, spreading smoke and fire everywhere.

Two steamers, pulled by horses, responded to the fire, Olson said. One went to the dock at Columbia Street to draft water from the bay, but because the tide was so low, it took thirty minutes to get water

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT People on Front Street watch smoke spread at the start of the fire. (photo: University of Washington Libraries, Special Collections, UW 1735) The ruins of the Seattle Lake Shore and Eastern Railway Co. after the fire. (photo: University of Washington Libraries, Special Collections, UW 21471) A man guards a safe from looters in the wake of the fire. (photo: MOHAI, Seattle Historical Society Collection, SHS511)

into the hoses—though they did eventually access that water. It took other firefighters on site thirty minutes to figure out where the fire was coming from.

“They saw smoke but they didn’t see flames,” Olson said. Firefighters pulled up the sidewalk, and that’s when they found the inferno.

“Because the fire was below grade, it was able to get in underneath the streets,” Olson said.

The bad luck didn’t end there. The water used in the area where the fire started came from natural springs on what is today called First Hill (and also, commonly, Pill Hill). Olson said the city had six gulleys that went down the hillside and emptied water into Elliott Bay, with sidewalks and plank streets above. Hollow trees served as the sewage and water system, attached to the underside of the streets. Water was privately owned, and the Spring Hill Water Co. served the downtown commercial area, with a pumphouse on Lake Washington that sent water up to a 5-million gallon reservoir at the top of Beacon Hill. Fire hydrants were still scarce, Olson said—they’d begun appearing only in 1887. But the water pressure for the area was traditionally pretty good.

As firefighters pulled the spring water from the hydrant, pressure dropped.

“It was an instantaneous cataclysmic failure,” Olson said. “Because it was below grade, the fire was able to get underneath the street and damaged supports for the water system and the water system failed.” An interview in the 1960s with the man working at the pumphouse that day told the deeper story—with the damaged structure, the water was being pumped right into Elliott Bay instead of into the hydrants.

That’s when the mayor, who had taken over command from acting chief James Murphy (the real chief, Josiah Collins, was out of town for a convention), divided people into three groups—one to serve as a bucket brigade, one to remove valuables from the buildings nearby, and one deputized to protect the items removed and placed in other parts of town. alsh said a variety of factors, including the wood-framed buildings in close proximity, the lack of fire hydrants, the warm weather and the all-volunteer fire department, added up to disaster.

“Once a fire gets to a certain size, it begins preheating other buildings, and large embers are carried aloft and the fire can spread across streets,” he said. “Firefighters actually attempted to dynamite APRIL | MAY 2019

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT People line up in front of the Tacoma Relief Bureau tent after the fire. (photo: University of Washington Libraries, Special Collections, UW 12404) Destroyed wharves in the fire’s wake. (photo: University of Washington Libraries, Special Collections, A. Curtis 36929) Businesses, such as these along Second Avenue, set up in tents after the fire. (photo: MOHAI, Postcard Collection, 1998.62.3)

buildings to create a fire line, to no avail. We don’t do that anymore.”

It’s hard to imagine, today, why it took so long for the fire to burn through the city’s buildings. The answer, Olson said, is the difference in the lumber used in the 1880s versus today. “They had these huge dimensional timbers,” she said.

By late afternoon, smoke could be seen in Tacoma, and reinforcements were called in from as far as Portland and Victoria, BC. People moved their possessions up into residential neighborhoods in the hills or put them onto ships that headed to the middle of Elliott Bay. Murray Morgan’s seminal work on Seattle, called Skid Road: An Informal Portrait of Seattle, described people trying to save the spoils of the Opera House.

“Inside the building stagehands worked desperately to haul scenery to safety,” he wrote. “A rescue party climbed to the Masonic Hall on the third floor and came out with the more important effects, but the building was lost.”

Later, the fire reached Trinity Church, which Morgan wrote, few were eager to save. “‘It was a wooden structure and had on its front end a tall belltower,’ one volunteer fireman said later. ‘It was so ugly the fire would have been a failure if that tower had been left standing.’”

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its records. As 120 prisoners were removed from the courthouse, a young man went to the roof and poured buckets of water on the roof to stop it from burning.

With wind blowing from the northwest, the fire headed to the southeast. Ultimately, Olson said, the south end of the fire burned out when it hit the tidal flats. The area toward the south end of the fire was almost entirely wooden docks—in fact, one of the mills that burned saved its saw blades by cutting a hole in the floor and dumping them in the water before the fire arrived.

Firefighters were able to stop the fire to the north, but it was a long, slow fight. In one area, the fire was slowed because of a hole in the ground, while in another area the bucket brigade covered glass windows with wet blankets, preventing the windows from breaking and the fire from getting inside the buildings. Along the eastern edge of the fire, shorter buildings with less fuel allowed firefighters to get ahold of the flames. he fire burned until 3 a.m. Twentyfive city blocks, a total of 120 acres, were destroyed. The wharves between Union and Jackson streets were gone.

No humans died in the fire, though as many as 1 million rats did. UW notes that about 5,000 men lost jobs, and the city estimated its losses to be $8 million, when it may have been as high as $20 million. The cost of the fire, in today’s dollars, is about $697 million. All told, one person died as

a result of the fire—but not until June 27, when a wobbly brick wall fell into a pit, killing one man and injuring another.

“Seattle, prior to this fire, was a pioneer town,” Olson said. “It was a backwards cesspool. It was like a glorified logging camp, though there were families and children. But it was a really nasty place and it stunk.

“Before the fire, the city was trying to figure out how to fix that. It wanted to become a legitimate city. And to be able to do that they knew they had to raze the Pioneer Square area, and deal with the sewer problem and the rats and stuff.”

The fire allowed Seattle to transition from a timber and coal town into a seaport. There was no time to waste. At 11 a.m. the next morning, citizens held a meeting to determine how best to move forward. The decision? Rebuild.

It didn’t hurt, Olson said, that most people’s businesses hadn’t faced great losses beyond the buildings—their possessions were safe up in the hills or out on the boats, and their money was sitting in safes that hadn’t burned.

Within forty-eight hours, tents were up and people were back in business. By Sunday, businesses were announcing in the newspapers where they’d set up, and within the month more than a hundred businesses were back to work. Most rebuilt where their buildings had burned. The town was placed under martial law and a relief committee was created to deal with all the donations the city received.

Relief arrived quickly, and Walsh said that was largely due to the fact that these fires were not uncommon. Rebuilding happened so quickly that in some cases the new buildings went up on top of rubble. “Prior to the fire of 1889, Seattle’s business district was a random pastiche of wooded structures.

The lack of planned design had created a city with streets too narrow to support growth, a sewer system that was hostage to the tide levels of Elliott Bay, and a resident population of 1 million rats,” Walsh said.

“Without the fire, it is unlikely there would have been a complete demolition and redesign of the entire business district. The fire happily eliminated the rodent problem as well. Gold was discovered in Alaska in the Klondike, and Seattle was a natural jumping-off point for people headed there.”

Though three major mills had burned, many others had not, and they provided huge timbers to rebuild, though this time the wood would be used only for the skeletons of the buildings—brick and mortar were the orders of the day.

“People needed jobs, their places of work had burned down, so they started right away,” Olson said. “There were more carpenters than were needed. … It was like a new gold rush for the carpentry and masonry workers who flooded the area.”

And new building and fire codes prevented a recurrence of massive fire. The city required masonry walls be at least a foot thick, for example. If you look at buildings still standing today that were built in 1890, Olson said, you’ll notice each story has different shaped windows, because they believed that would prevent fire from spreading.

Within thirty days, eighty-eight brick buildings were underway or projected to be built. “There are pictures showing people repairing docks within days, as soon as it was cool enough,” Olson noted. The burned docks were left in place and built around, and coal bunkers were rebuilt within a few months. By 1890, 465 buildings had been built. Wooden buildings were banned in the area that had burned, and in some places streets were raised up to 22 feet.

After the fire, the city moved from an all-volunteer fire department to a professional one. The city took control of the water supply, eliminated wooden pipes and made the rest of the pipes larger, and increased the number of hydrants.

“It takes many men to make a masonry town,” Morgan wrote. “Seattle gained more than it lost by the fire. When the fire started Seattle’s population was estimated at 31,000. When the census takers counted the population in 1890, less than a year after the fire, they found that Seattle had 37,000 inhabitants.”

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A Whiff of Wonder photography by Meghan Nolt IF YOU LOVE books so much you like to inhale the scent of fresh pages when you crack a new one, Immortal Perfumes may just be for you. JT Siems runs the micro-perfumery out of her Seattle studio, crafting all handmade perfume blends from original recipes. She draws from dozens of scents to create her historically inspired perfumes, which includes her flagship line, Dead Writers. Inspired by her love of literature, bottles range in name from Dharma Bum to Capulet to Lady Day.

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JT Siems’ handmade perfumes often feature historical and literary themes. Siems, a self-proclaimed literature nerd and a former English major, has always been interested in writers. One of her most popular scents, Dead Writers, contains notes of black tea, vetiver, clove, musk, vanilla, heliotrope and tobacco.

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ABOVE Siems creates all of her products in her home studio in Seattle. Depending on the season, Siems spends between fifteen and thirty hours a week in her studio.

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FAR LEFT, FROM TOP Siems keeps rolls of perfume labels readily accessible. Siems says she sells thousands of her 2 ml “sample size” bottles a year.

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Siems estimates she has at least 100 different bottles of scents and oils she uses to make her perfumes.

FAR LEFT, FROM TOP Siems pours sample sizes of perfume in her studio.

Siems recently added scented bookmarks to her product line. The quill-inspired bookmark comes with a sample size of perfume. Users can dab the perfume onto the tassel’s knot to create an aromatherapeutic reading experience.

TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 72 ADVENTURE 74 LODGING 76 TRIP PLANNER 78 NORTHWEST DESTINATION 84

pg. 84 Yosemite National Park has a wide array of waterfalls to view.

where every moment is picture perfect

Request your travel packet today!

800.365.6948 ~ www.pullmanchamber.com

Travel Spotlight

Trolley Back in Time Take a ride on the last interurban electric railroad in the country written by Molly Allen

Kenneth G. Johnsen

THE YAKIMA VALLEY is known for its rich, agricultural history, boasting Washington’s largest apple crop, nearly 75 percent of the world’s hops and vineyards as far as the eye can see. But there’s more to this place—add the Yakima Valley Trolleys to your list to explore a bit more of Central Washington’s history.

The trolley is the last intact interurban electric railroad in America, noted on the National Register of Historic Places. Visitors or community members looking for an afternoon outing can experience a trolley ride just as those in the early twentieth century did.

Trolley rides leave from an original intact car barn and motormen entertain riders with stories of the past as the trolley makes its way from Yakima to Selah. The experience will take you back in time, providing a fun way to learn about the important role trolleys played in city and agricultural development a hundred years ago.

The route to Selah goes through a scenic gap in the mountains known as Selah Gap. The trolley line, perched along a narrow shelf on the side of the cliff, shares the gap with the Burlington Northern Railroad, the Yakima River and Interstate 82.

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Enjoy an Adventure Getaway to the Kitsap Peninsula ...the Natural Side of Puget Sound

TM

TM

Kitsap Peninsula National Water Trails

Kitsap Peninsula

VisitKitsap.com/lodging

Easy to get to by ferry, bridge, bike, boat, bus or auto.

Baymont Inn & Suites - Bremerton 360-377-7666 | tinyurl.com/ybtb6rgf Best Western Plus Silverdale Beach Hotel 360-698-1000 | silverdalebeachhotel.com Comfort Inn on the Bay - Port Orchard 360-895-2666 | tinyurl.com/h8ovrzw Fairfield Inn & Suites - Bremerton 360-377-2111 | tinyurl.com/y7pg95bo Guesthouse Inn & Suites - Poulsbo 360-697-4400 | redlion.com/guesthouse

Hampton Inn & Suites - Hilton - Bremerton 360-405-0200 | bremertonsuites.hamptoninn.com Oxford Suites - Silverdale Waterfront 888-698-7848 | oxfordsuitessilverdale.com Poulsbo Inn & Suites - Little Norway 800-597-5151 | poulsboinn.com Bainbridge Island Lodging Association DestinationBainbridge.com Airbnb - airbnb.com. Type in the name of town

to find a place to stay on the Kitsap Peninsula.

adventure

On the Water(ways) Exploring Kitsap Peninsula’s national water trails written by Alisha McDarris

ALL AROUND THE jagged coast of Washington’s Kitsap Peninsula, waves lap at the shore. The tide ebbs and flows, receding as much as 15 feet in some places. Ripples reflect the sunlight, dazzling kayakers as they dip their paddles into the surf and whisk them back up again, waving at the sea in cheerful greeting. In the distance, between the nose of their boats and the Cascades in the east or the Olympic Peninsula in the west, porpoises frolic and, just maybe, a humpback will surface and spray a puff of salty air into the sky.

The Kitsap Peninsula is a mere ferry ride away from the traffic and noise, the quickened pace of life in Seattle, but a galaxy apart. Here, visitors come to commune with nature—a walk in the woods, a mountain bike speeding down miles of single track, a paddle around Kitsap’s some 371 miles of coastline.

It’s that coastline, with its chiseled inlets and 200 possible access points, that attracts not just adventurers beckoned by the song of saltwater waves, but the National Park Service, too. The waterways surrounding this peninsula are now officially recognized alongside the Appalachian Trail and the Pacific Crest Trail—the first-ever saltwater National Water Trail, so dubbed in 2014.

For a peninsula peppered with small seaside towns and far from bustling highways, such a prestigious recognition is significant.

“It creates in people’s minds a destination,” said John Kuntz, president of Olympic Outdoor Center. He’s been promoting the world-class waterways surrounding the Kitsap Peninsula since he first paddled the 150 miles around it in 1996. In 2008, he joined the North Kitsap Trails Association and started the process of garnering the area’s liquid assets the attention they so richly deserve.

Thanks to community and local government support and marketing initiated by Visit Kitsap Peninsula, Kitsap’s waterways have become a destination in their own right. The minute you push past the shoreline you’ll feel the immensity, the vastness of the natural world—the mountains in the distance, the sticky saltwater breeze on your face, the tap of the waves on the hull of your craft, harbor seals lounging on the rocks, bald eagles taking flight, orcas cresting in the distance. It’s almost too much to take in.

On the scores of beaches speckling the coastline there is climbing and oystering, playgrounds and waterfront eateries.

One of Kuntz’s favorite outings involves paddling from Poulsbo to Keyport for lunch and back.

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But it’s not just kayakers who are invited to enjoy the water trails. Stand-up paddleboards, canoes, kite boards, any beachable craft can enjoy access to the waterfront. Kuntz, together with Patricia Graf-Hoke, director of Visit Kitsap Peninsula, even created an interactive online map in 2018 marking eighty-four of the most accessible access points around the peninsula, pointing locals and visitors to the best places to launch or dock.

Among them are points in west-facing Seabeck, Bremerton and Port Orchard that offer spectacular sunsets with the Olympic Peninsula as the grand backdrop, and Bainbridge Park, where the sun rises over the hazy Seattle skyline. From Port Gamble you can paddle all the way up to Canada or simply stop for shopping and a bite to eat in the quaint waterfront town.

Blake Island, accessible only by tour or private craft, offers a Native American village, hiking and scuba diving. Poulsbo is home to one of the area’s largest harbor seal rookeries, and in Olalla, paddlers often stop for pizza and beer at Al’s Market.

“You’re really never far from a place you can paddle to,” Kuntz said.

Once a year, there’s even a celebration of sorts for those who know and love the water trails, as well as those experiencing them for the first time—Ride the Tide. The event guides participants from the Tracyton Boat Ramp through the Port Washington Narrows and to Port Orchard, a 6-mile journey that lasts two to three hours.

It’s just as easy to paddle on your own with the interactive map. To find an access point, simply visit www. kitsappeninsulawatertrails.com/maps and click on the markers to see details, including directions, descriptions, amenities and nearby recreation, from camping and hiking to shopping and dining. You can even filter results by the type of activities you’d like to participate in after you dock. It’s a resource that has opened the area, allowing visitors to enjoy all of Kitsap’s natural wonders alongside the residents who have known and loved these welcoming waterways for decades.

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Map courtesy Visit Kitsap Peninsula

lodging

ACCOMMODATIONS

Have you ever wanted to spend the night in a teepee? Here’s your chance! These are likely some of the most luxurious versions you’ll find. Each teepee comes with a very soft bed and down comforter, a refrigerator for midnight snacks and access to indoor bathrooms, or enjoy your shower in the openair facilities. You’ll need to leave your kids at home, but well-behaved canines are welcome with prior arrangements.

DINING

What’s a B&B without breakfast? Sample the bounty of the region with a full breakfast intended to showcase local ingredients.

Start with fresh pastries before moving on to protein—you might finish up with a fruit parfait. Owner Pepper Fewel tries out recipes in the winter, looking for new ways to tantalize her guests.

ACTIVITIES

Climb on a horse or into a hay wagon for a slower-paced wine-tasting tour, complete with lunch. Relax at the pool or by the campfire. Soak in an outdoor clawfoot tub under the stars, complimentary with any twonight stay. Be sure to keep your eyes open for additional horse- and wellness-related activities available throughout the season.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Visitors can check out wineries on horseback. Luxury teepees are available for visitors. Soak in an outdoor, clawfoot tub.

Lodging

Cherry Wood Bed Breakfast and Barn written by Cara Strickland THIS IS HARDLY your usual B&B. Nestled in the middle of wine country, Cherry Wood is a working farm growing apples, pears, cherries and grapes, and home to more than thirty horses, most rescued from slaughter. The B&B is a family business with a mother-daughter horsewoman team at the helm, along with a couple of husbands and a son and daughter-in-law. Their goal is to share their love of the land, horses, wellness and relaxation with their guests. Cherry Wood is open seasonally from April through early October.

3271 ROZA DRIVE ZILLAH www.cherrywoodbbandb.com

Imagine‌

Every time you spend the night at Sleeping Lady Resort, you are supporting the Icicle Fund. This means the Icicle Fund can help even more local non-profits in providing wildfire preparedness, arts for kids and adults, hiking trails and open spaces, and many other community benefits that enhance the quality of life right here where you love to visit.

When you stay, you give.

8 00.574.2123 | LEAVE N WORTH, WA

Find out more at SleepingLady.com/Imagine

1943 Columbia Park Trail Richland, WA 99352 509.943.4100 | www.visitthereach.org

trip planner

Bellevue has a big-city buzz all its own.

Off the Beaten Path The Eastside has its own great restaurants, wine and culture written by Sheila G. Miller

YOU’VE SPENT TIME in Seattle. You’ve watched them throw the fish, marveled at the view from the top of the Space Needle, maybe even caught a sunny day when the city lights up and everyone’s in short sleeves.

Now it’s time to do the surprisingly nearby, and chic, suburbs. We picked Kirkland, Bellevue and Woodinville for our foray into the bedroom communities that make up the region.

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Day COFFEE • CULTURE • BARS In Bellevue, start your day at Third Culture Coffee. This spot, which opened in 2017, is already wildly popular thanks to its ethically sourced coffee and tea from around the world.

If you seek a caffeine buzz that’s a little international, try an Indian filter coffee poured hot with condensed milk or a New Orleans iced coffee thick with chicory.

Properly caffeinated, a good stop for a bit of culture is the Bellevue Arts Museum. The

museum started as an art fair, and didn’t have a permanent home until 2001. The light-filled space contains a constantly rotating set of exhibits, and the museum takes an open-minded approach to the styles and types of art it features—a recent exhibit included a re-creation of a band’s van intricately crafted entirely from cardboard.

If you’ve got a good weather day, check out the Bellevue Botanical Garden.

Just 12 miles east of Seattle!

Merrill Images

trip planner

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Kirkland has five waterfront parks with beach access, perfect for kayaking on Lake Washington. The Bellevue Arts Museum has constantly rotating exhibits. Lady Yum makes macarons seem necessary.

The 53-acre public park is free and open from dawn until dusk, and in it are a variety of gardens, from a contemplative Japanesestyle space to an area filled with rhododendrons.

Finally, refresh with a beer from one of Bellevue’s breweries— Bellevue Brewing Company has great beer with the added bonus of an extensive menu that offers an idea of the right beer to pair with the meal. Another option is Resonate Brewery & Pizzeria, which is a gem hidden away in a strip mall neighborhood. Go looking for it and leave satisfied. And remember, there’s always Tavern Hall, a great beer spot that also happens to have great bar food (loaded fries, shishito peppers, grilled cheese).

Day SHOPPING • MINI-GOLF • MACARONS You know Kirkland as the namesake of Costco’s store brand. It’s a lot more than that. Located on the shores of Lake Washington, this city has five waterfront parks with beach access. You can rent a boat or go on a boat tour along the lake, or kayak or standup paddle on a nice day.

Beyond the water, the city has a lot to offer. Head downtown to browse through the shops that line the main drags.

Rocket Fizz Soda Pop & Candy Shop is filled with candies you remember from your childhood, plus a ton more you’ve never seen. Purpose Boutique combines shopping with philanthropy, as portions of your purchase are donated to an anti-trafficking organization. Or try Ragamoffyn’s Women’s Consignment Store, where you can find high-end and designer clothing cast off and ready for you to step into. Asher Goods has stylish men’s goods, and Boo Boo Barkery & Boutique has everything you didn’t know your dog needed.

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Flatstick Pub is a great stop if you’re looking to add a little athleticism to your beer drinking. There are twenty-four Washington beers on tap, plus an indoor nine-hole mini-golf course with hazards and obstacles.

No stop in Kirkland is complete without a macaron at Lady Yum. With fifteen regular flavors (salted caramel, s’mores, honey lavender, to name a few) and about five rotating seasonal or monthly flavors, there’s a treat for even the most discerning palates. Bonus—grab a glass of champagne and stay awhile.

After all, macarons are best when eaten immediately (and in large quantities).

For dinner, Volterra is the place to eat. The restaurant and its chef, Don Curtiss, were made famous by a wild boar tenderloin in a gorgonzola sauce. But the entire Tuscan menu and exceptional wine list in this charming restaurant are worth trying. Don’t sleep on the pork jowls or the lobster risotto, either.

After all that delicious food, you’ll need a little exercise.

Head for the Cross Kirkland Corridor, a new-ish gravel trail, running a little less than 6 miles. It was once a rail line, and today it’s a 10-foot-wide crushed gravel trail that connects the entire city.

While on the trail, there’s good news—a delightful brewery backs right up to it. Run, walk or ride your bike until you hit Chainline Brewing’s backyard deck, then belly up for a beer or two at this unassuming spot. Currently, the brewery is tucked into an office park which hides its beautiful barrel system picked up from a hotel lobby setup in Japan (really). Soon, the brewery will operate a twenty-barrel system just a few blocks away. Chainline is a little different from your average Pacific Northwest brewery in that it focuses on lagers and pilsners—though like any brewery in Oregon or Washington you’ll definitely find an IPA on tap.

Sunshine for all Seasons!

One of Frommer’s Best Places to Go in 2019!

1-800-737-8462 visitsunnysequim.com

EAT Volterra www.volterrakirkland.com Tavern Hall www.tavern-hall.com Lady Yum www.ladyyum.com Richard Duval

BELLEVUE/KIRKLAND/WOODINVILLE, WASHINGTON

trip planner

Barking Frog www.willowslodge.com/barking_frog The Herbfarm www.willowslodge.com/herbfarm _restaurant The Commons Kitchen + Bar www.thecommonscafe.com

STAY The Willows www.thewillowslodge.com Heathman Hotel Kirkland www.heathmankirkland.com

PLAY Third Culture Coffee www.thirdculturecoffee.com Bellevue Art Museum www.bellevuearts.org Bellevue Botanical Garden www.bellevuebotanical.org Flatstick Pub www.flatstickpub.com Chainline Brewing www.chainlinebrew.com Patterson Cellars www.pattersoncellars.com Guardian Cellars www.guardiancellars.com

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Woodinville Warehouse District is ground zero for winemaking in the area.

Day TASTINGS • PAIRINGS • FORAGED FOODS Woodinville is about a lot more than wine, but let’s just say the wine makes the stop momentous.

It is vital that you make time to eat at The Commons Kitchen and Bar. You will likely have to wait for a table, as this is a popular spot. Trust me, it’s worth it—the bacon is crispy, the pastries are flaky, the juice is fresh squeezed. After brunch, my husband and I debated whether it’d be weird to go back for dinner that night and also breakfast the following day.

In Woodinville, wine tasting begins after breakfast. In fact, wine tasting before noon isn’t considered gauche. Unlike places like Oregon’s Willamette Valley or Sonoma and Napa in California, which often have you traversing long country roads between wineries, Woodinville brings the wine to you. In the Hollywood District, there are nearly three dozen wine tasting rooms, many in the same buildings. The Warehouse District is where the magic actually happens—that is, where much of the wine gets made and bottled and shipped. During busy times of the year, you can see wineries sharing equipment or its people lending each other a hand.

Your best bet is to focus your efforts in the Hollywood District, where you can grab bites and sips at a variety of storefronts, all within walking distance. Begin at Guardian Cellars, founded by a former police officer with a love of wine. Bordeaux-style blends here have names like Gun Metal and Alibi, APRIL | MAY 2019

and they’re delicious. Around the corner, sit on the heated patio at Patterson Cellars and try some truly spectacular wines, including a Sangiovese that tastes much more expensive than its price tag. Head chef Javin Bakke has also created experiences with food that are totally over the top—pair your wine flight with a tray of cheese, fruits and crostini, or charcuterie and roasted veggies. Better yet, match them up with jcoco chocolates for dessert. Other tasting rooms, including William Church Wines, àMaurice Cellars and Gorman Winery, offer equal delight.

There’s nothing wrong with going old school and checking out Chateau Ste. Michelle, the state’s oldest winery complete with a chateau and beautiful grounds that make you feel like you’re in a more traditional setting for wine-tasting.

If your taste buds are wined out, there’s Woodinville Whiskey Company right up the road and Métier Brewing, a special place making very special beer.

For dinner, check out Barking Frog or The Herbfarm, both on the grounds of The Willows Lodge. At Barking Frog, you’ll find a comfortable but upscale restaurant with wooden beams and rustic style, but the food is anything but casual—it’s local and modern. The Herbfarm offers ninecourse dinners filled with foraged and fresh ingredients and wine pairings. Make sure to stay over at The Willows Lodge for a grand finale you didn’t know you needed.

northwest destination

California’s Crown Jewel Yosemite National Park has all the makings for outdoor adventure written by Sheila G. Miller

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Sweeping vistas are just one draw at Yosemite National Park.

Mariposa Grove features Giant Sequoias. The Majestic Yosemite Hotel was built in the 1920s.

YOU’VE SEEN ANSEL ADAMS’ black-and-white photos. It’s time to bring those views to life.

Yosemite National Park is one of those must-sees on the long list of the U.S.’s glories. At 1,200 square miles, it’ll take more than one trip (or two or three or four) to see it all, but you’ve got to start somewhere, the sooner the better.

The national park, established in 1890, is in the Sierra Nevada mountains in California, a little less than three hours southeast of Sacramento (and closer to Fresno and Merced). It feels a world away from the central valley towns closest to it, thanks to jaw-dropping rock formations, waterfalls and meadows that stand out along each curve in the road.

Yosemite is the third oldest national park in the United States, the result of naturalist John Muir and others lobbying Congress to protect it from grazing animals and other encroachment.

More than 3 million people travel to Yosemite National Park each year, so be prepared for some crowds. But you can get 84 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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a bit off the beaten path and find nature and solitude. April through October is the most popular time to visit, though the park is open and mostly accessible—some roads will be closed due to snow—during winter.

To get started, you may want to stop into the Yosemite Valley Visitor Center to get more information from rangers.

From there, it’s a real game of Choose Your Own Adventure.

If it’s beautiful views you seek, you have many options.

Yosemite Valley is home to many famous views, though you should be prepared for traffic. The Tunnel View includes a photo-ready vista of El Capitan, Bridalveil Falls and Half Dome in the background. Or head up Glacier Point Road to get a sweeping view of the valley and Half Dome. For some serious waterfall-viewing, go in the spring during snow runoff.

At more than 2,400 feet, Yosemite Falls can be seen from a variety of locations throughout the park. There are many other waterfalls throughout the park worth checking out.

YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK, CALIFORNIA

Kim Lawson

northwest destination

EAT The Mountain Room at Yosemite Valley Lodge www.travelyosemite.com The Majestic Yosemite Hotel www.travelyosemite.com Jackalope’s Bar & Grill www.tenayalodge.com

STAY The Majestic Yosemite Hotel www.travelyosemite.com Tenaya Lodge www.tenayalodge.com Half Dome Village www.travelyosemite.com/ lodging/half-dome-village

PLAY Hiking Half Dome www.nps.gov/yose/ planyourvisit/halfdome.htm Checking out the views www.nps.gov/yose/ planyourvisit/touring.htm Communing with trees www.nps.gov/yose/ planyourvisit/sequoias.htm

If what you truly desire is to commune with giant trees, Yosemite has you covered there as well. The Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias, in the southern part of the park, has more than 500 trees that stand nearly 300 feet tall and are more than 2,000 years old. The grove is easy to access and there are a range of hikes to see more of the trees, ranging from easy to hard.

Do note that Mariposa Grove is the biggest and most popular—two other groves of Giant Sequoias can be found in lesser-visited parts of the park. Tuolumne Grove is a 1-mile hike to see two dozen trees while Merced Grove requires a 1.5-mile hike to see the two dozen trees (and both hikes back are uphill, so be prepared).

Beyond just looking at the scenery, if you have time in Yosemite you owe it to yourselves to get into it, by camping, fishing, hiking or going on guided tours. With the proper preparation and permit, you can hike Half Dome (this is a 14-

Kenny Karst

Damian Riley

Yosemite Mountain Sugar Pine Railroad www.ymsprr.com

mile round-trip, strenuous hike that includes cables along a steep ascent at the end). There are plenty of other hikes that are less intense, including a 5-mile loop around Mirror Lake that provides incredible views of Half Dome. There are also 12 miles of paved bike paths in the park that offer other vantage points for incredible scenery.

When you’re tapped out for the day, there are a variety of hotels and campgrounds inside the park. Certainly the most impressive is the Majestic Yosemite Hotel, built in the 1920s and listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Or grab a canvas tent cabin (heated or unheated) in Half Dome Village.

There are plenty of other hotel options in between. As for dining, you’ll find pretty high-quality fare—the dining rooms in the park’s lodges and hotels are your best bet for upscale foods and incredible views. Tenaya Lodge’s Jackalope’s Bar & Grill is also a good option. You’ll find grocery options in strategic locations throughout the park.

APRIL | MAY 2019

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1889 MAPPED The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1889.

Oroville Bellingham

Friday Harbor

Republic Colville

Mount Vernon Port Angeles Coupeville Forks

Okanogan Lakewood Marysville Everett

Port Townsend

Newport

Seattle Port Orchard Shelton Aberdeen

Montesano

Wilbur

Waterville

Bellevue Renton Kent Federal Way Tacoma

Spokane Davenport

Wenatchee Ephrata Ritzville

Olympia

Ellensburg Colfax

Chehalis

South Bend

Yakima Pomeroy Richland

Cathlamet Longview Kelso

Prosser

Pasco Kennewick

Dayton Walla Walla

Goldendale Vancouver

Stevenson

Live

Think

Explore

18 Everybody’s Brewing

42 Plover Organic

72

Yakima Valley Trolleys

21 Doe Bay Cafe

44 Fairhaven Tower

74

Kitsap Peninsula National Water Trail

22 Lummi Island Wild

46 WSU College of Medicine

76

Cherry Wood BB&B

34 Ditzy Chicks runners

49 Jansen Art Center

78

Bellevue Arts Museum

36 Mighty Tieton

50 KEXP

84

Yosemite National Park

86 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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Asotin

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Until Next Time

A Year in the Woods written by Rachel Smith | illustrated by Allison Bye

TURN-KEY, the listing said. There was a grubby futon and three mattresses, original to the 1968 A-frame.

Dark paneled walls, an asbestos tile floor. But also skylights, a raw wood ceiling, a natural spring down a forested path. We’ll call it Javi’s Spring, Kevin said, as we drove away. Javi barked his agreement.

At the time, we were living happily in Mexico, but a cabin in the woods was our dream. Although we had not spent much time in the North Cascades, the lofty mountains and mossdraped trees exerted some magic over us. In December, our real estate agent handed us the keys.

We ordered a cord of wood, since our idyll got twice the rainfall of Seattle. Just before Christmas, Javi and I braved the first night. There was no insulation, no electricity, no phone. I lit our propane lamps and made a fire with a bundle from the gas station. Rain pinged the metal roof. I fell asleep on the futon, the last embers glowing, the floor-to-ceiling windows all darkness.

The dog howled. A light flashed. I sat up from sleep, exposed. A figure was there on the porch, spotting me with a flashlight.

“Wood!” he said. It was 11 p.m., a day early. He threw the pile of wood out of his truck at the street. For two days, I hauled wood up the long, steep driveway. It was too green and rain-wet to burn.

We were not discouraged. We took the old mattresses to the dump, painted the paneling white. The generator broke.

We had it fixed. It broke again. We bought another. We fixed leaks, replaced faucets, repaired spots of rotted wood. We installed a soapstone stove and tried to burn our green wood.

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Spring came and we replaced the old, rusted water heater and bought a washer-dryer. We wrangled up offgrid batteries and a good inverter, second hand, and paid to our eyeballs to have them installed. “Those should be ventilated,” an old local said, a few weeks later, eyeing the job, “or they might blow up.”

In summer, we traveled, and came home to our old propane fridge gone warm. Kevin cleaned the vent pipe and we went to bed. The carbon monoxide alarm sent us naked into the yard before dawn. We spread a mattress beside a mossy tree and slept under the lightening sky. Javi leapt toward his spring through the ferns.

One clear day, I took Javi to the river beach. The sun set the mountainside ablaze with green. There were salmon in the river now, someone had said. A flock of birds flew low and Javi followed them with his gaze. I sat bare-armed on the rocks and was dazzled.

When fall arrived with its constant rain, we made plans to move the batteries. We hired someone to build us a study above the spring, and by the time he’d put holes in the ground and poured concrete, it had doubled in cost.

We had made no improvements to the asbestos tile, but we were not discouraged. We tested the green wood. It had cured.

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TRIP PLANNER: BELLEVUE, KIRKLAND + WOODINVILLE PG. 78

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