1859 Oregon's Magazine | September/October 2018

STUNNING AND LUXURIOUS BY DESIGN

Oregon’s Magazine

RANGE ROVER VELAR

TRIP PLANNER: BEND PG. 98

Portland’s Bridge Tenders

Tiny Bathroom Makeovers

The Oregon Kiwitini

September | October 2018 HOME + DESIGN

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Visit Land Rover Portland to experience the all new Range Rover Velar.

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1859oregonmagazine.com $5.95 display until October 31, 2018

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THINK

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OREGON

September | October

volume 53

150 timeless colors personally crafted by Joanna Gaines.

Available at all Miller Paint Company locations. millerpaint.com

Rainbow Valley: Where Your Ideas Come to Life.

At Rainbow Valley, we want to design and build the best house for you.

This client had a clear aesthetic vision, and through close collaboration with our Design/Build and Outdoor Spaces teams, she was able to make it a reality. The house was also designed with an eye to the future.

Thanks to the sloping site, the basement pottery studio and guest loft are both accessible from the beautifully landscaped yard, allowing our client to age comfortably in her unique and perfectly tailored home.

Ready for your custom home or remodel? Come to Rainbow Valley.

New Homes

Kitchens

Remodels

Small Cottages

541.342.4871 rainbowvalleyinc.com 785 Grant St. Eugene, Oregon 97402 CCB# 56107 LCB# 9533

A View From the Top photography by Shauna Intelisano Portland’s bridges are an iconic part of the city, each adding to its personality. The bridges also have tenders, who ensure, among other things, that pedestrians, drivers and the occasional climber are safe and that the massive structures lift and lower properly. It’s a job for the curious and the patient—we tell their stories on pg. 76.

6 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

Portland’s Hawthorne Bridge is one of the busiest bike and transit bridges in Oregon, with around 8,000 bikes, 30,000 vehicles and countless pedestrians using it to cross the Willamette River each day.

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 7

FEATURES SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018 • volume 53

70 Green Living Oregon’s green building cred is strong and getting stronger. Check out some of the sustainable designs popping up around the state.

76

82

All Along The Watchtowers

Cutting Edge

Next time you drive across one of Portland’s bridges, rest easy—someone is watching over you. Meet Portland’s bridge tenders.

Ladies and gentlemen, sharpen your chainsaws. The McKenzie River Chainsaw & Arts Festival brings the world’s best chainsaw carvers together to coax art from logs.

written by Scott Latta 8 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

photography by Bradley Lanphear SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

Jen G. Pywell

written by Melissa Dalton

MENS • WOMENS • KIDS • CLOTHING • SHOES • GIFTS MENS WOMENS KIDS BABY CLOTHING SHOES TEXTILES GIFTS

DEPARTMENTS

LIVE 22 NOTEBOOK

Megan Morse

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018 • volume 53

Squeeze the last juice out of the good weather with our tidbits, then embrace the fall by curling up with the debut novel from Portland author Zulema Renee Summerfield.

30 FOOD + DRINK

What to quaff around an autumn fire, plan a fall road trip to eastern Oregon with our Weekend Wanderings, and get a head start on your winter coat by embracing beignets filled with Tillamook cheddar.

36 FARM TO TABLE

Kiwis in Oregon? Yep. Kiwi berries grow on about 125 acres around the state— learn more from Peter Dinsdale of Blue Heron Farm, outside Independence.

44 HOME + DESIGN

Got a small bathroom? Two designers show how they took tiny spaces and remodeled them into luxurious Mid-century escapes. Plus: learn how to make a terrarium to add mood to your bathroom.

52 MIND + BODY

Ultrarunner Ian Sharman started his career with one long walk. Now, he’s incorporating a love of Bend beer into his workout plans.

98 John Valls

54 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE

Estacada is a mural wonderland, thanks to Artback, an artists collective that creates a new one each year.

THINK 60 STARTUP

After an Oregon State University professor lost his vision, he figured out new ways to continue his research—and ViewPlus was born.

62 WHAT’S GOING UP

To bring Hayward Field into the future, the University of Oregon has to get rid of one of the most iconic pieces of its past.

64 WHAT I’M WORKING ON

After a layoff during the recession, David Bantz started selling hazelnut shells. They have more uses than you might think.

66 MY WORKSPACE

Baseball fans, unite! Portland may not have an MLB franchise, but it does have Baseballism, one of the best merchandise stores around.

52

32 17 18 110 112

Editor’s Letter 1859 Online Map of Oregon Until Next Time

68 GAME CHANGER

Project Erase helps people leave the past behind by getting rid of regrettable tattoos.

EXPLORE 90 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT

In 1893, Sister Protasia Schindler planted a giant sequoia at her monastery.

It still stands today, dwarfing everything around it.

92 ADVENTURE

After a climbing accident left Alysia Kezerian using a wheelchair, she changed the rules so she could keep adventuring.

96 LODGING

Minam River Lodge isn’t easy to get to—unplug and unwind in the wilderness.

98 TRIP PLANNER

COVER

You know about Bend in the summer and the winter. Bend in the fall is where it’s really at.

photo by Bronson Studios Photography (see Green Living, pg. 70)

10 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

104 NORTHWEST DESTINATION SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

A devastating wildfire that ripped through Sonoma County did nothing to dampen its spirit—or damage its ability to give visitors a great time.

CONTRIBUTORS

SCOTT LATTA Writer All Along the Watchtowers

BRADLEY LANPHEAR Photographer Gallery

BETSY L. HOWELL Writer Travel Spotlight

BRIAN HOLSTEIN Photographer My Workspace

Everyone I talked to for this piece found the job the same way I found the story: because it sounded interesting. What all of us discovered in our own way is that it’s really a job about people. There’s something so human to me about sitting in solitude watching a city come alive around you. Something tender.

I don’t think I’ve ever wanted to get a drink with someone more. (pg. 76)

The McKenzie River Chainsaw Art Festival was particularly enjoyable to photograph, because when I’m not behind the camera, I’m usually in my wood shop. Everything I do revolves around art and craftsmanship, so this opportunity to watch some of the most skilled chainsaw carvers in the world was a real treat. Watching these artists from across the PNW take a log or a tree stump and transform it into a beautiful sculpture right before my eyes was something special. (pg. 82)

I first visited Queen of Angels in the 1970s with my parents. My uncle was a monk at nearby Mt. Angel Abbey, and several of the Benedictine sisters were close friends of his. I returned in 1999, but it wasn’t until another visit in 2015 that I decided to write about the giant sequoia. The tree is a magnificent, peaceful presence, and I have been back twice more to draw from its wisdom and strength. (pg. 90)

I’m grateful for the chance to explore a local business in Portland. I don’t follow baseball much, so prior to this assignment, I had walked by this place a number of times but never went in. I love the story behind these guys—just an organic brand following, and definitely part of an American dream. (pg. 66)

12 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

I WORK FOR

HOME SWEET HOME For you, satisfaction is seeing the team’s project come to life. At SAIF, our team finds satisfaction in building awareness for workplace health and safety. With quality workers’ comp insurance and tools to help businesses prevent injuries, SAIF strives to make Oregon the safest and healthiest place to call home.

Protecting Oregon’s workforce. saif.com

13260_1859_SAIF_SinglePg_HomeSweetHome.indd 1

6/1/18 3:18 PM

EDITOR Kevin Max

MANAGING EDITOR Sheila G. Miller CREATIVE Allison Bye

MARKETING + DIGITAL MANAGER Kelly Rogers

OFFICE MANAGER

Cindy Miskowiec

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Jenny Kamprath

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

HOME GROWN CHEF BEERLANDIA COLUMNIST

Cindy Guthrie Jenn Redd Thor Erickson Jeremy Storton

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Melissa Dalton, Beau Eastes, Betsy L. Howell, Catie Joyce-Bulay, Scott Latta, Sophia McDonald, Mariah Miller, Chris Peterson, Ben Salmon, Vanessa Salvia, Jen Stevenson, Corinne Whiting, Mackenzie Wilson

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Anthony C. Castro, Brian Holstein, Shauna Intelisano, Bradley Lanphear, Megan Morse

Statehood Media

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14 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

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FROM THE EDITOR LAST YEAR WAS the hottest year Oregon (and many other places around the globe) has experienced. If you think there’s no heating of this planet, better not look at any thermometers, heat indices or NOAA statistics on what’s happening outside your front door.

If you’re like the rest of us, you’re doing your part, as small as it seems sometimes, to save our lifestyle and planet. Indeed, everything we write and photograph in 1859 and 1889 is climaterelated—from the grapes and hops we grow, to the forests we bike and ski in, to the ocean we walk and surf on our coast.

In this issue of 1859, our Home+Design writer Melissa Dalton looks at the state of sustainable building through a number of inspiring projects across the state. Creative re-use of existing materials and the addition of solar power is one theme that is good for the resident and better for the world.

On the agriculture front, we encounter the oddity of kiwis in Oregon. What? On Blue Heron Farm outside of Independence, Peter Dinsdale is growing kiwi berries, a smaller kiwi that you can eat like a berry, skin ’n’ all. Our Home Grown Chef, Thor Erickson, then takes these into their seasonally adjusted higher form of a Kiwitini for your pleasure.

Also take a look at how ultrarunner Ian Sharman stays fit, avoids injury and keeps on running. He was not born this way—he started walking and failing before learning to run long distances. Read his story on page 52.

For our travel features, Sheila Miller heads south to see what’s left of Sonoma County after its devastating fire last

year. She finds it well intact and the home of densely packed tasting rooms that kept her busy for a weekend.

We also look at a non-traditional season in Bend, the fall.

Most of the tourists have receded and this mountain town shows off its emerging cultural side with a long-running film festival and its own twist on Oktoberfest—not to mention the emergent world cuisines popping up in new restaurants. It’s also one of the best times to be on Bend’s hallowed trail network, just biking and running to your heart’s content. Cheers!

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 17

1859 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Oregon content 1859magazine.com | #1859oregon | @1859oregon

have a photo that shows off your oregon experience?

Share it with us by filling out the Oregon Postcard form on our website. If chosen, you’ll win 1859 gear and a chance to be published here.

1859oregonmagazine.com/ postcard photo by Mermanda Dawn Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor near Brookings.

#1859OREGON

DIGITAL EXCLUSIVE Bradley Lanphear

What does your Oregon look like?

Connect with us on social media by tagging your photos with #1859oregon.

See what it takes to transform logs into art at the McKenzie River Chainsaw & Arts Festival in our exclusive online video.

1859oregonmagazine.com/chainsawfestival 18 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

NOTEBOOK 22 FOOD + DRINK 30 FARM TO TABLE 36 HOME + DESIGN 44 MIND + BODY 52

pg. 36 Kiwis in Oregon? Absolutely.

Anthony C. Castro

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 54

Blue skies for days...

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Rogue Valley Manor is a Pacific Retirement Services community and an equal housing opportunity.

notebook

Tidbits + To-dos Lincoln City Fall Kite Festival The Lincoln City Fall Kite Festival takes place from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., October 6 and 7 on the beach in the center town, on the D-River Wayside.

Kids can make their own kites, and everyone can enjoy seeing some of the largest kites in the world being flown while you watch the running of the bols—a race to see who can run fastest into the wind while harnessed to a doughnutshaped kite. oregoncoast.org/lincoln-cityfall-kite-festival

our rk y dar a m n

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e

Botanical Bug Off Spray Summer may be almost over, but for those who still plan to hit the trails this fall, Suzi’s Bug-Off Spray is a must-have. It’s free of chemicals, like DEET, that you find in many commercial bug sprays, but still super effective, so that you and your family can enjoy the great outdoors. There is also a Bug-Off Stick for easy packing.

Keep your pup cozy at the campsite with his very own sleeping bag. Whyld River’s DoggyBag was created to help keep your best friend warm on the coldest adventures around the Pacific Northwest. These lightweight bags pack up super small, making them easy to take on the trail. Plus, they are available in three sizes. whyld-river.com

suzislavender.com

22 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER

Whyld River DoggyBag

2018

Fabulous natural light Maloy's offers a fabulous selection of antique and estate jewelry and fine custom jewelry, as well as repair and restoration services. We also buy.

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Cinnamon Bear Themed Cruises Christmas Ship Viewing 503-224-3900 Holiday Parties www.portlandspirit.com PortlandSpirit.com Visit Us in Christmas Valley, Oregon Group Rates Portland Spirit Cruises & Events Hours for both stores: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday Private Charters local family owned since 1994 86426 CHRISTMAS VALLEY HWY ∙ 541.576.2117

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Trail Butter This real-food energy snack is the perfect thing to bring on your next trail hike or run. Packed full of instant whole-food nutrition, it’s guaranteed to fill you up and keep you going wherever your next adventure may take you. Convenient to-go pouches are available in three flavors. trailbutter.com

m

calark you end r ar

Smith Rock Ranch Corn Maize The largest corn “maize” in Central Oregon opens on September 29 in Terrebonne. The Smith Rock Ranch is a fabulous place to take the family to kick off the start of fall. The maize is open until 6 p.m., Friday through Sunday. Other fun activities on the property include a pick-your-own pumpkin patch, pumpkin cannons, petting zoo, general store and more, plus food and drink vendors and live entertainment. smithrockranch.com

24 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER

2018

Bridge of the Goddess Half Marathon & 10K The Bridge of the Goddess Half Marathon and 10K may be the most scenic run in Oregon, with its nonstop views and tree-lined forest paths. Fifteen hundred runners depart from the deck of Bridge of the Gods in Cascade Locks and travel along the Columbia River Highway Trail.

At the finish line, pick up a finisher medal and enjoy some well-deserved lunch, beer and live music. The race starts at 8 a.m. on Sept. 15, so grab your girlfriends and get ready to run. runwithpaula.com/bridge-of-the-goddess-half-marathon-10k

Visit Pendleton in two downtown Portland locations PEND LETON PAR K AV E WEST 825 SW Yamhill St, Portland, Or 503-242-0037

P ENDLETO N H O M E STO RE 210 NW Broadway, Portland, Or 503-535-5444

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Musician

Portland Baroque Orchestra

Raising the Bar Monica Huggett’s Portland Baroque Orchestra rises to new heights written by Ben Salmon

MONICA HUGGETT IS ONE of the world’s leading Baroque violinists, an expert in the historically informed performance style, and the artistic engine behind the Portland Baroque Orchestra for the past twenty-four years.

And just like anyone else, she had to get her start somewhere.

For Huggett, that was the Pizza Express near her family’s home in London, England, where she played violin for £3 per night plus free pizza from ages 17 to 24.

“By the time I stopped,” Huggett said with a hearty laugh, “I’d sort of had enough pizza for life.”

Huggett, 65, has come a long way since then, and the PBO has come with her. The orchestra’s upcoming season—its 35th— will run from October through April and feature performances of works by Vivaldi, Telemann, Bach and more, plus the music of Latin America, Northern Europe and the Baroque period of England and France. The season will end with one of Huggett’s all-time favorite pieces, Mozart’s Jupiter symphony.

In fact, it’s Huggett’s enthusiasm that drives much of the PBO’s programming each year. Raised as part of a hard-working and highly musical family, she listened to pop, rock, jazz, classical and beyond.

“I loved it all,” she said. But when she started playing the modern violin, she never quite felt at home. Then, she discovered the Baroque violin—a violin from the Baroque period or modified to Baroque specifications—and historically informed performance, which aims to present classical music using the style, techniques and instruments of the day. The Baroque period is roughly defined as 1600 to 1750.

Historical performance is a “very lively, very intense and much more communicative way of playing classical music,” Huggett said.

“Sometimes, classical music feels like going to a museum. It’s almost 26 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER

2018

like going to church—you worship these pieces that were icons of Western civilization.”

A PBO performance has more in common with a rock concert, she said. Baroque music features strong rhythms and colorful textures.

The period instruments—fitted with gut strings, among other adjustments—have a different temperament and timbre than their modern counterparts. Huggett works hard to imbue the orchestra’s four dozen members with the history behind pieces, as well as the stories they tell without words, which informs their playing.

“Baroque music is like a conversation,” Huggett said. “I can actually put words to it. It’s like theater, (and) the more theatrical you can make the music, the more it translates to the audience.”

The PBO formed in the early 1980s, and when Huggett took over as artistic director in the ’90s, it was more or less a semi-professional community orchestra full of historical performance buffs. Since then, “the standard has risen enormously,” she said, “to an orchestra that has international repute.”

Huggett deserves credit for that, of course, but she is also quick to point out that she has grown artistically over the years, along with the PBO. Even with all her accumulated knowledge, skill and reputation, however, Huggett said she is still a rocker at heart. (She started out playing pop sessions in London, and can be heard on The Rolling Stones’ “Angie.”)

“I adored Eric Clapton when I was young. Really, somewhere in me, I have the soul of a rock guitarist,” Huggett said. “When I started working on historical performance, I found an avenue to let out that intensity. Wanting to be exciting on stage. Wanting to be a real performer. That’s definitely a part of me.”

MORE ONLINE

Learn more about the Portland Baroque Orchestra and its upcoming 2018-19 season at pbo.org

OCTOBER 11-14, 2018

CHANGE HAPPENS HERE.

BendFilm.org

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Bibliophile

Telling Stories Every Other Weekend takes us back in time PORTLAND AUTHOR Zulema Renee Summerfield is getting high praise for her first novel, Every Other Weekend. But a few years ago, she wasn’t sure she was cut out to write one in the traditional sense. So she didn’t.

“I was really struggling with how I was going to write a novel,” she said.

“At the time I didn’t tell stories in big, overarching plots. I was writing a lot of flash fiction.” After reading Love and Shame and Love, a novel composed of vignettes written by her mentor and colleague Peter Orner, she knew she could write her book the way she wanted. “Novels come in all kinds of shapes,” Summerfield said. “It really freed me to write a book in vignettes, and that’s how the structure was decided.”

Tell us about the book.

It’s a highly fictionalized retelling of some events that happened to me and my family when I was a young person.

It’s told from the point of view of Nenny, who is 8 years old. Her parents are recently divorced and her mom is newly remarried to a man who has his own kids.

So it’s about trying to figure out what that means to have two households and two separate lives and families broken apart and reblending. It’s basically about how families fracture and re-form and this young person trying to figure out her place in all of that.

How did you get into that mid-’80s mindset that permeates the book?

A lot of it is based on memory, and then just returning to some of those pop culture landmarks. I was watching a lot of ’80s sitcoms, I got some Time magazines from 1988 on eBay. It was just a lot of research. I didn’t listen to a ton

Tucker Sharon

interview by Sheila G. Miller

Zulema Renee Summerfield’s first novel is set in the ’80s.

of ’80s music when I was writing, but it was all kind of seeping in. I watched a lot of “Family Ties,” and that really helped trigger those memories. It was definitely really fun to revisit a lot of stuff that I hadn’t engaged with in years. Also, early on I was like, ‘Let’s see … Michael Jackson and The Cure,’ but that actually wasn’t really the stuff that I was into.

My sister was super into Poison, my bedroom was plastered in Bret Michaels posters. That kind of became a theme.

How did you get into writing and how have you made it a full-time gig?

I started writing when I was a kid, like 10 or 12. I was writing really crappy poems.

I was always writing, but it wasn’t until I went to college for Spanish and dropped out, and then I went back for creative writing, and I started taking writing more seriously.

I wouldn’t recommend it as a solid career path. I teach a lot and I tell this to

my students all the time—the likelihood that you’re going to make a living writing fiction is pretty close to none. It’s the truth, and honestly I don’t know that one should pursue writing, or any of the arts, for money. That seems shallow, and not right. I don’t do it for the money and neither should you!

You’ve been teaching and coaching writers for a long time—why does that appeal to you?

It’s really important to me that everybody gets space to tell their version of their story. I feel like that’s something that we should all work together to make happen. I love to teach, I love engaging with people. I think it’s a symbiotic relationship and the right space where people are learning from each other.

So that’s really important to me that everybody gets room to tell their story the way they need to tell it.

“It’s really important to me that everybody gets space to tell their version of their story. I feel like that’s something that we should all work together to make happen.”

— Zulema Renee Summerfield 28 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER

2018

food + drink

Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of Ransom Wine Co. & Distillery and Andrew Morse at Albany’s Vault 244

Ransom Manhattan 2 ounces Ransom Rye, Barley, Wheat Whiskey ¾ ounce Ransom Sweet Vermouth ¼ ounce Ramazzotti Amaro 2 dashes orange bitters 2 dashes aromatic bitters Combine all ingredients in a mixing glass. Stir with ice for twenty to thirty seconds, and strain into chilled cocktail glass.

Squeeze a swath of orange peel over the glass to release the oils, then drop peel into drink.

As fall arrives, grilling and beer don’t need to take a back seat.

Beerlandia

Beers Around an Autumn Fire written by Jeremy Storton ALTHOUGH THE DOG DAYS are behind us, visions of summer’s splendor flash across our memories like a late-night highlight reel. Lulled by warm days, many of us continue to push the outdoor barbecues in the evenings. But the chilly nights confirm that summer is indeed over. The days of summer salads and lagers may linger behind us, but a change of season invites a different, equally splendid experience.

In fall, I find myself sitting fireside, wrapped in a blanket and tending to the various meats, veggies or paella grilling over the coals. Sometimes there is wine, but there is always beer. For me, there is something that excites my palate about pairing dark and brooding malty beers with the crackle of fire and the sizzle of steak.

My goal is to curate the perfect beer “set list” for such occasions. Many beers will perform well, but which ones will strike the right chord when paired with grilled food, good tunes and the crisp night air? For me, the best beers will strike a balance between bitter hops, complex malt and quaff-ability. The beers below are a part of my revolving “set list” for such occasions.

HAPPY HOUR Pelican Brewing’s Sea’ N Red Irish Style Red Ale (Pacific City): Malt forward, toasted biscuits and toffee with a slightly dry finish.

AFTER DINNER

Wild Ride Brewing’s Brenna A Amber Lager (Redmond): Complex dark malts with a balanced but spicy hop flavor filling in the back end, with a clean and crisp finish you’d expect from a lager.

Feckin Brewery’s Top O’ The Feckin Mornin (Oregon City): Vanilla beans?

Cold-brew coffee? Bourbon barrels?

Steel-cut oats? Honestly, this Imperial milk porter is feckin’ perfect.

DINNER

Base Camp Brewing’s S’more Stout (Portland): Chocolate, coffee, sweet dried fruit and a hint of smoke. This beer is complex, boozy and delicious.

Try it with a toasted marshmallow in your glass.

Ordnance Brewing’s FMJ IPA (Boardman): The complex maltiness of a British ale combined with the hops of a NW IPA with a dash of herbal note for good measure.

30 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

Fort George Brewing’s Vortex IPA (Astoria): A very malt-centric tropical and citrus IPA that will pair with most food a fire can dish out.

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

food + drink

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Diners at Wild About Game. A plate at the event. Chef Philip Oswalt, right, of the Multnomah Athletic Club.

Gastronomy

Wild About Game written by Jen Stevenson RUN (AND EAT) wild with a thicketful of the Pacific Northwest’s best chefs at Nicky USA’s annual celebration of wild game and culinary camaraderie, returning on September 30 to the Mt. Hood Oregon Resort in Welches, Oregon. Now in its eighteenth year, the festival promises an impressive lineup of local cooking talent, from Castagna’s Justin Woodward and Aviary’s Sarah Pliner to Seattle chefs David Nichols (Rider) and Alex Barkley (Manolin). Against a backdrop of the Oregon high country’s brilliant fall foliage, guests sample gourmet meats, craft beers, charcuterie, spirits, cheeses, wine, cider, chocolate and coffee from nearly fifty top local purveyors including Olympia Provisions, Salt & Straw and Crowley Wines, plus meat-centric bites from more than a dozen acclaimed chefs like Gregory Gourdet of Departure and Kachka’s Bonnie Morales. The meaty merriment turns serious come the Carter Cutlery Cooking Competition, which pits four Portland chefs against four Seattle chefs, all vying for the coveted Overall Award title, claimed in years past by star chefs like Edouardo Jordan of JuneBaby, Gabriel Rucker of Le Pigeon and Gregory Denton of Ox. Wild About Game tickets are available online— if you plan to take the Cocktail Competition’s People’s Choice award judging responsibilities very seriously, consider reserving a room at the resort. nickyusa.com/wild-about-game mthood-resort.com

32 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

WEEKEND WANDERINGS: EASTERN OREGON

EN ROUTE

In historic Pendleton, home to one of the country’s most famous rodeos every September, grab a bite at busy Sister’s Café before embarking on the entertaining 90-minute Pendleton Underground Tour.

Try a pint of Righteous Indignation red ale at Prodigal Son Brewery and Pub, or pair wood-fired pizza with one of the beakerbound house cocktails at Oregon Grain Growers Brand Distillery, then head a mile east to the Pendleton Woolen Mill, which offers four free weekday tours, no reservations necessary. In La Grande, sip Walla Walla rosé at charmingly renovated Wine Down café and wine bar, then eat 6 Ranch grass-fed beef burgers and smoked aioli-drizzled dirty fries alongside the local college kids at Side A Brewing, set inside the historic La Grande Firehouse, just off the main drag.

Photos: John Valls

EAT + DRINK

Brake for Oregon berry shakes and Clown Cones at Wallowa’s delightfully oldfashioned Little Bear Drive-In, then shop everything from local seasonal produce to hand-carved apple heads at eclectic, century-old M. Crow & Co. general store in nearby Lostine. Ten minutes southeast, stock up on red raspberry seed oil and citrus sunrise body butter at Wild Carrot Herbals in downtown Enterprise, then claim a table in the grassy creekside garden at Terminal Gravity Brewery and Pub and tuck into brews and buffalo burgers.

In small but mighty Joseph, stroll the cheerful main street, which offers an impressive variety of culinary and retail amusements. After sipping your morning latte or green smoothie creekside at Red Horse Coffee Traders, queue up for a patio table and sausage-stuffed Swedish pancakes at Old Town Cafe, where they don’t skimp on the cinnamon roll icing.

After browsing the botanical goods at Beecrowbee and the truffle case at Good Food Award-winning Arrowhead Chocolates, stop into East Fork Brewery for thick, juicy Stangel Ranch bison burgers and pints of Cross-Eyed Cricket IPA. Slurp post-lunch soft serve at R&R Drive-In, work your way through a whiskey flight at Stein Distillery (call ahead to book a tour), then tour the meticulously curated Wallowa County Museum, where you’ll be urged to partake of the docents’ homemade punch and cookies. For dinner, head ten minutes south to Wallowa Lake, where the fetching

Swiss-Bavarian architecture has earned the area the nickname “Oregon’s Little Switzerland.” Join the reservations-only crowd at cozy Vali’s Alpine Restaurant, which offers two dinner seatings and one Hungarian-themed entrée nightly, plus homemade doughnuts on weekend mornings—don’t dally, they sell out fast.

End the evening back in town with live music on the patio at popular Embers Brew House, which claims the largest selection of microbrews in Eastern Oregon.

Take the long way home through darling Dayville, where the Dayville Cafe serves up hearty slices of homemade country pie at country prices. Across the street, procure provisions or get a flat fixed at Dayville Mercantile, a 122-year-old former school, saloon and dance hall-turned general store and bike shop. In tiny Kimberly, take the rutted road to Thomas Orchards, where the breezy farm store sells justpicked stone fruit and cherries, Triple H Homestead’s raw cow’s milk cheeses, and local honey. In sweet small-town Condon, browse the smallest branch of Powell’s Books and get scoops of Huckleberry Heaven ice cream at Country Flowers gift and coffee shop, then move on to Maupin to ride the Deschutes River rapids with the Imperial River Company before digging in at their resort restaurant.

SLEEP WELL

In Joseph, The Jennings Hotel combines the region’s rich history with modern style—set inside a turn-of-the-century landmark building on Main Street, each of the boutique hotel’s twelve rooms is curated by a different Oregon artist or designer, there’s a cedar sauna just off the main hallway, and the common area combines a full kitchen, wood-burning fireplace, and well-stocked library and record collection. For big views and a dose of nostalgia, book a lake-facing room or cabin at the historic Wallowa Lake Lodge, where guests curl up by the grand stone fireplace in the main lodge on crisp fall evenings. To live that ranch life, check into the homey Wilson Ranches Retreat in Fossil, a 9,000-acre working cattle ranch with a 1910 Sears Roebuck ranch house turned six-room bed and breakfast. After a hearty home-cooked breakfast in the dining room, take a horseback ride through Butte Creek Valley, hike the high desert hills or just read a Louis L’Amour novel in the hammock.

food + drink BEST PLACES FOR

FALL FORAGING Not just a pretty patio for sipping and soaking in valley views, the Sokol Blosser family’s esteemed Dundee Hills winery is home to one of the finest kitchens in the Willamette Valley. When executive chef Henry Kibit isn’t dishing up savory parsley root custard topped with salmon roe and licorice fern and slabs of tender brisket over fried wild nettles, he’s roaming the miner’s lettuce and morel-strewn hills behind the vineyard, collecting seasonal treasures to incorporate into the six-course Farm & Forage wine pairing luncheons he serves in an intimate, sunsplashed space behind the tasting room.

5000 NE SOKOL BLOSSER LN. DAYTON sokolblosser.com

RACK & CLOTH Exit I-84 onto the Historic Columbia River Highway just east of Hood River and mosey into tiny Mosier, an unexpected treasure trove of antique shops, cideries and this charming farm-to-table restaurant, taproom and market. Taste husband-wife team Silas Bleakley and Kristina Nance’s handcrafted smallbatch hard ciders made with apples from their nearby farm, pick up a dozen eggs or stay for a wood-fired pizza topped with heirloom tomatoes, sweet corn and basil. Don’t leave without an armful of fresh-cut flowers, just-picked stone fruit and garden greens, or ask about buying shares of the farm’s pasture-raised pork and lamb.

Alan Weiner Photography

SOKOL BLOSSER

OK Omen’s beignets are filled with Tillamook cheddar.

Dining

OK Omens written by Jen Stevenson

Renowned for both his impeccable plating and deep commitment to local and foraged ingredients, James Beard Award-nominated chef Justin Wills serves some of the most intriguing food on the Oregon Coast, with a side of spectacularly scenic Whale Cove views from the light-filled dining room tucked inside luxurious Whale Cove Inn. As the compressed cucumber and mint sorbet of summer make way for fall fare, expect celery root macarons, roasted cauliflower panna cotta and foie gras, lettuce and tomato (FLT) sandwiches.

Opt for the wine pairing with your chef’s tasting menu, or a bottle of Brick House Vineyards pinot noir— co-owner and sommelier Stormee Wills curates an Oregon Wine Board award-winning list that devotes plenty of space to Oregon vintages, at a very nice price.

NO LONGER Café Castagna, but still Castagna’s café, this lively new Ladd’s Addition wine bar retains the same sleek look (and beloved patio) as its predecessor, while debuting a playfully scholarly natural-wine-centric list to pair with James Beard Award-nominated Castagna chef Justin Woodward’s simple but superlative new bistro menu. Settle in for a late summer evening at one of the garden-side tables, inches from fragrant plumes of fresh mint and lemon verbena, and enlist the help of spirited sommelier Brent Braun, who won’t steer you wrong on the perfect bottle to go with Woodward’s burnt-beet-topped steak tartare, grilled squid with chicory and Thai basil, and buttermilk fried chicken with spicy greens and hot sour cream. Like the savory offerings, desserts are often twists on dishes served next door as part of Woodward’s modernist tasting menus. They shouldn’t be missed, particularly the Pacojet-pureed concoction of housemade chocolate sable cookies, heavy cream and macerated Oregon strawberries, splashed with a balsamic vinegar reduction, dusted with sable crumbs and aptly described on the menu as “kinda like a Blizzard.” Those concerned about the fate of the famous Café Castagna burger may have mixed feelings about its new incarnation, but it’s hard not to love a slab of beef slathered in smoked beef fat remoulade. If lingering over after-dinner drinks, sip the Scissors & Sidewalks, a light, effervescent, dangerously drinkable mix of Pineau des Charentes, Dolin blanc vermouth and lemon. Stay long enough (the wine bar’s open daily until midnight), and you might just end up joining one of the bar staff’s impromptu late-night dance parties.

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farm to table

Farm to Table

Crazy for Kiwi

Growing this tropical fruit is possible in Oregon written by Sophia McDonald photography by Anthony C. Castro

36 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

farm to table

Peter Dinsdale with his son, Ben, at Blue Heron Farm near Independence. The farm has 11 acres of kiwis.

OREGON IS KNOWN for producing world-class berries from spring to early summer. But come September, a strangelooking variety briefly appears for about two weeks. They’re tan globes about the size of a grape. Each has a sweet-tart flavor and a smooth skin that’s entirely edible.

Cut one open and the mystery is solved. The flesh of these tiny fruits is lime green and dotted with tiny black seeds. They’re known as kiwi berries, baby kiwi or hardy kiwi, and they’re kin to the fuzzy-skinned fruit commonly found in grocery stores.

Oregon is the country’s top producer of this unusual fruit— which is to say there are a handful of farmers growing them on about 125 acres.

Peter Dinsdale with Blue Heron Farm near Independence explains how this micro-industry came about. A berry farmer named Mark Hurst was interested in selling them through his wholesale business and was looking for partners willing to raise them. He’d already taken some to an international produce marketing conference and won rave reviews. “They were the sensation of the show,” Dinsdale said. “People really liked them and wanted more.” The fruit is tasty but it’s also quite healthy, packing a punch of vitamin C, folate, potassium and other

nutrients. Combine that with their intriguing appearance, and it’s no wonder people were interested.

Dinsdale, who was already growing a variety of berries on his farm, decided to give kiwis a go. In many ways, they were a good fit with his other crops. They could be pruned right after the blueberries in the winter and harvested in September after all the blackberries had ripened. That would allow him to keep his staff onboard and busy for a longer period of time.

In 1994, he planted 11 acres of thick-stalked kiwi berry plants between trellises with stakes the diameter of telephone poles (the vines that shoot up from the trunks are so strong they can pull down a structure that’s poorly built). In 1995, he dug up all the plants, fumigated the soil to rid it of a fungal disease that could kill the kiwis, and replanted.

This inauspicious beginning hinted at more challenges to come. Pollinating the vines proved difficult. Dinsdale’s son, Ben, has taken to traipsing under the trellises every year in what he calls a “bee suit”—a modified snow blower that shoots pollen over the vines and gives nature a leg up. Although the kiwis are a cold-tolerant variety from Siberia, they’re very susceptible to frost after SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 37

farm to table

FROM LEFT Peter Dinsdale started growing kiwi fruit in 1994. Ben Dinsdale holds a bin of kiwi berries at Blue Heron Farm.

bud break. Dinsdale has lost plenty of fruit to chilly spring mornings. In addition, the market for kiwi berries hasn’t taken off the way its early American champions hoped it would. “The returns have been acceptable,” he said. “It’s sort of worth it.”

Given his investment in this crop, tearing out the plants would not be worth it, he believes. Besides, they’ve grown on him after all these years. “I find it an aesthetically pleasing crop, with the large canopy and the trellises and the way the vines twine around everything,” he said. The plants have exfoliating bark that flakes and peels all along the trunks, which gives them a rugged and appealing look.

And like most people, he’s quite taken by the taste of the berries. “I’m a nut about eating fresh fruit,” he said. “The nice thing about these is when we’re finishing picking, there’s still kiwis out here until the first hard frost. So I can keep coming out here and picking a cupful for fresh eating. They’ll be ripe and sweet on the vine until then.”

Dr. Bernadine Strik, the berry crops research leader at the North Willamette Research and Extension Center in Aurora, has long been a champion of kiwi berries. She confirms and

expands on many of the challenges Dinsdale has faced growing them. The plants aren’t quite cold-hardy enough, and the tender vines are susceptible to breaking when gusty winds come up.

“Pollination is a problem because bees like kiwi, but they like raspberries and blackberries better.”

But she, too, hopes the hardy kiwi industry in Oregon will grow. “It’s an expensive crop to grow because you need lots of labor per acre to prune and harvest them, and the plants and trellises are expensive,” she said. “But it’s a high-value crop even if it’s small.”

Kiwis of all sorts are most commonly used in desserts. Chef Ryley Eckersley with Quaintrelle, a North Portland restaurant that specializes in New American cuisine, suggests making them into a compote with rhubarb and serving it atop vanilla panna cotta.

Another option is to cook them in a simple syrup and use that as the base for a summery cocktail. Bartender Camille Cavan from Quaintrelle calls her kiwi-inspired concoction Long Time Gone, and it gets its own sweet-tart flavor from Pimms liqueur, ginger liqueur and lime juice.

“I’m a nut about eating fresh fruit. The nice thing about these is when we’re finishing picking, there’s still kiwis out here until the first hard frost. So I can keep coming out here and picking a cupful for fresh eating. They’ll be ripe and sweet on the vine until then.”

— Peter Dinsdale 38 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

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Oregon Recipes

Incorporating Kiwi photography by Anthony C. Castro

Long Time Gone Cocktail

Vanilla Panna Cotta with Kiwi Berry and Rhubarb Compote

PORTLAND / Quaintrelle Camille Cavan

PORTLAND / Quaintrelle Ryley Eckersley SERVES 8

MAKES 1 COCKTAIL 1 ½ ounces Pimms ¼ ounce ginger liqueur ¾ ounce lime juice ½ ounce kiwi syrup (see recipe below) 2 ounces Fever Tree ginger ale 1 dash angostura bitters Shake Pimms, liqueur, lime juice, kiwi and bitters, then strain into a Collins glass.

Top with ginger ale and garnish with three slices of kiwi berries, lime twist and large mint sprig.

TO MAKE KIWI SYRUP Simmer 2 cups of 1:1 simple syrup with 4 kiwi berries, sliced. Let simmer for 45 minutes, then let sit for 24 hours. Fine strain the syrup, discarding the berries.

40 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

FOR PANNA COTTA 16 ounces heavy cream ¾ cup sugar 1 vanilla bean 8 grams gelatin 16 ounces buttermilk FOR COMPOTE 16 ounces rhubarb 16 ounces kiwi berries 10 ounces sugar 4 ounces Cocchi Americano aperitif 1 tablespoon lemon juice Sachet with 1 star anise, cinnamon stick and 5 pink peppercorns

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FOR PANNA COTTA Heat cream, sugar and scraped vanilla until 125 degrees. Bloom gelatin in cold water for about 3 minutes and strain and add to cream mixture. Run through a fine mesh chinois or sieve and pour into whatever molds you like.

FOR COMPOTE Chop rhubarb into inch-long pieces and cut berries in half. Cook until the rhubarb has softened in the cocchi and with the sachet. Add lemon. Add a splash of water during cooking if it appears to need it.

Once panna cotta has chilled, spoon the compote over the top and cover with chopped salted almonds.

Find additional recipes at 1859oregonmagazine.com/recipes

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Home Grown Chef

Kiwis … in Oregon? written by Thor Erickson photography by Megan Morse

BEFORE I TALK about kiwis, I need to be completely honest. When the editors of 1859 Oregon’s Magazine proposed that I write about kiwis, I though they had lost their minds.

Kiwis? In Oregon? Really? I went home and binge-watched “Flight of the Conchords” while I did some research. After a healthy dose of Bret and Jemaine, I soon found that kiwis do grow in Oregon, and are becoming quite popular.

Kiwi berries (also known as hardy kiwi, grape kiwi or cocktail kiwi) are smoothskinned and much smaller in size than their furry cousins from New Zealand. I drove out to Dundee to HB&K farms to pick a few for myself. The strawberry-sized kiwi berries, or Actinidia arguta, are not genetically 42 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

modified minis, but their own perennial vine, native to Japan, China and Russia.

Kiwi berries have a short growing season, typically September and October. As I filled my pail, I sampled a few of these sweet little fruits. They do not require the peeling of the furry skin that we are used to doing to prepare kiwis. “Just pop ’em in yer mouth!” one of the farmers recommended. In doing so, I tasted the sweet, acidic balance that kiwis are famous for. My head started to flood with ideas of how to use these little beauties—salads, jams, pies. … I know, I just roasted grapes in the last issue, but seriously, roast these kiwis and serve them warm over vanilla ice cream. You’re welcome.

Picking kiwis in the hot sun is a lot of work. Time for a cocktail!

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

The Oregon Kiwitini Thor Erickson

MAKES 1 COCKTAIL 3 ounces vodka 3 Oregon kiwi berries 2 teaspoons simple syrup Ice In a cocktail shaker, muddle the kiwi berries with simple syrup to release the fruit’s juice. Add ice and vodka.

Shake well, then strain into a well-chilled cocktail glass.

Garnish with a couple kiwi berries on a cocktail pick.

home + design

Little and Luxe

Two Portland homes pack a lot of luxury into remodels of their small Mid-century bathrooms written by Melissa Dalton

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home + design

The West Hills bathroom has sealed marine plywood to make it more modern.

Christopher Dibble

A Modern Take on a West Hills Mid-century WHEN A COUPLE bought this rambler in Portland’s West Hills, it still held much of its Mid-century charm, which the new owners loved.

Soaring ceilings clad in cedar in the living room? Check. Original kitchen cabinets in excellent shape? Yes, please. Unfortunately, their swooning stopped upon seeing the master bathroom. “The house was built in 1954, and I don’t think the bathrooms had ever been touched,” said Stewart Horner, principal designer at Penny Black Interiors, who worked with the homeowners on a refresh. “It was pretty much as it had been for fifty-plus years, and it wasn’t pleasant.”

First, there was the room’s unappealing Jack-and-Jill layout. A popular treatment during the Mid-century era, it meant the bathroom was shared between the parents’ bedroom and their daughter’s, ensuring privacy for no one. Drab tile and a claustrophobic “cubicle” of a shower compounded the need for a complete do-over. Horner and Look Construction teamed up to gut the space, then reconfigure it as a self-contained master suite.

Even after borrowing a bit of space from a nearby room, the new bathroom clocked in around 80 square feet. The homeowners’ wish list included a deep tub, double vanity and rain showerhead, all of which Horner was able to fit, while weaving in a modern aesthetic that jives with the home’s excellent Mid-century bones. “I call it more modern than ‘Mid,’” he said. “That was the brief: to work with this classic Mid-century architecture but make it more modern than Mid-century.”

Horner started with an interesting palette. “We wanted to use materials that were a little unusual,” he said. Now, the custom double vanity and tub surround are fabricated from sealed marine plywood, the edges exposed for a modern look. To safeguard water resilience, the surround was topped with a thin layer of Formica veneer that stretches all the way up the wall in the open shower.

There, a glass enclosure has an angled edge. “It’s wider at the bottom and narrower at the top, which actually creates a really interesting look,” Horner said. He specified a clever cutout in the glass so the homeowners can reach in and turn on the shower without getting a face full of water.

Small details add up to make the room feel spacious and luxe. A large frameless glass mirror hangs over the vanity, itself hovering about 8 inches above the floor. “Visually that gives you more space because you can see more of the floor,” Horner said. Sconces installed over the glass and nearby floating shelves afford more airiness, while brushed brass hardware and faucets lend a burnished shine that’s warmer than the typical chrome.

The adjacent master bedroom boasts wallpaper on the ceiling and show-stopping artwork, and the connected bathroom delivers personality in equally unexpected ways. Take the bespoke “Bubble Hex” tile backsplash from Portland maker Clayhaus Ceramics. The dramatic dimensional pieces and striking white and gray gradient are an inspired take on 1960s pop art, to fashion justthe-right mix of modern and “Mid” that Horner and the homeowners sought. “It’s the showpiece of the whole space,” Horner said of the tile. “It’s the perfect fit.”

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 45

Photos: Luke and Mallory Leasure

home + design

FROM LEFT The floor tile runs from the shower through the rest of the bathroom. The fixtures are all combined on one wall-mounted unit.

A Deliberate Remodel in Alameda Kenneth Birkemeier was a designer and builder working from the 1930s to the 1970s. He erected around 700 custom houses and apartments, many in the Northeast neighborhoods of Portland. Many of his Mid-century designs were dubbed the “houses of tomorrow,” yet Birkemeier had a solid appreciation of old-world craftsmanship and used it in many of his builds, such as where he incorporated Craftsman-style builtins fashioned from natural wood. When interior designer Courtney Nye set out to remodel the master bath in this Birkemeier-designed Alameda home, foremost in her mind was to modernize it without compromising his approach of blending the past and future. “We wanted to update but still tie in with the rest of the house and have a little ode to what it was before,” Nye said.

The master bathroom presented challenges. For starters, the room was cramped and a singular shade of teal, from the tile floor to the sink to the toilet. Even after borrowing an extra 2 feet of space from a nearby closet, the entire layout was a mere 65 square feet. “Still, we were able to work within the small footprint and maximize the feel of it,” Nye said.

First, she swapped the placement of the fixtures and combined the sink and toilet into one sleek, space-saving wallmounted unit. Doing so enabled her to extend the countertop across the entire length of the piece and fit in a generous, 4046 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

inch trough sink. A custom recessed medicine chest above the basin contains a large mirror, lights, and both open and closed storage. “I wanted to integrate as many components into one so that we wouldn’t have too many stops and starts, which could make the space feel smaller,” Nye said.

Next, she exchanged a dark, confined shower for one that occupies the entire side of the room, streamlining it with a glass partition. By dropping the shower’s entry threshold to zero clearance, the floor tile now runs unobstructed throughout the room, creating the illusion of more space. White tile with a light-colored grout further prevents the tableau from feeling too busy. “I kept the floor and wall tiles white just to make it feel more open and bright,” Nye said.

Her finish selections read modern yet timeless, since she aimed to reference the home’s current and previous incarnations. The natural white oak of the built-in vanity syncs with the home’s original oak floors. The tile backsplash behind the sink is a beautiful green that recalls the bathroom’s former teal palette and complements the tones of the wood.

The end result accommodates the homeowners’ entire wish list—including luxuries like the double sink and a towel warmer—to conjure a true master suite, yet still flows seamlessly with the historical house thanks to Nye’s unwavering eye. Achieving such an elegant balance between the past and future, craftsmanship and modern function, we think Birkemeier would have approved.

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home + design

DIY: How To Make a Terrarium NOTHING PRETTIES THE BATHROOM like a little plant life. Following these easy tips, terrariums can be made with materials bought from specialty terrarium shops, pet and aquarium stores, home improvement destinations and the nursery.

1 PICK A CONTAINER

Whether it’s a vintage cloche from an antique mall or an ordinary fish bowl, pick a clear glass container that will offer plenty of space for the plants and transmit enough light to encourage growth. If choosing a container with a lid, make sure it won’t be sitting in the direct sun, as that can kill the plants inside.

CHOOSE A PLANT

Opt for a specimen that will enjoy the bathroom humidity, flourish with the room’s lighting conditions and grow fairly slowly, so it doesn’t crowd out of the container too quickly. Good choices for a humid spot are ferns and tropical houseplants.

4

Once the plant is in place, top the foundation with other materials that will contrast with its size and leaf structure. These can be colored pebbles, coral and shells, small pieces of driftwood, crystals and geodes, moss and lichen, or even found objects, like small figurines. Leave empty space around the plant so it remains the natural focal point.

2 POUR THE FOUNDATION

Cover the bottom with small rocks to encourage drainage. Pour in a layer of sand, using a funnel to keep the grains neat. Have fun choosing the colors of these elements, since they will be visible. Next, add activated charcoal pellets, usually available at a nursery or aquarium store. Then top everything off with enough soil for the plant’s roots to thrive.

A good rule of thumb is to set the foundational layers at about one-third of the vessel, to keep the overall composition balanced and leave enough room for growth.

LAYER IN CONTRAST

5

MAINTAIN

Don’t forget to water the plant according to its needs. Place your composition on a shelf in the bathroom, on the corner of the vanity, or hang from the wall or ceiling, and enjoy!

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 49

home + design

Design Finds Get the modern ‘Mid’ look of the West Hills bath

Go bold with Clayhaus Ceramics’ Futura Collection. It’s comprised of five different tile designs that can be mixed and matched in a rainbow of glazes, all with a distinctive three-dimensional quality to their surface. clayhaustile.com

There’s no need to have disparate packaging around when the cotton balls and Q-tips can be decanted into these chic stoneware vessels, available in a variety of sizes. Offered in either white or black and topped with low-profile acacia lids, they’ll create a much more cohesive display. rejuvenation.com

For a minimalist treatment similar to the floating light fixtures in the West Hills bath, try the Baird Aged Brass Sconce from Hudson Valley Lighting, which combines a simple brass base with an oversized orbital shade. Pick it up at Globe Lighting, an outpost for fine lighting in the Pacific Northwest since its first store opened in Portland in 1978. globelighting.com

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SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

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mind + body

Ian Sharman at the finish of a 16-hour race.

Grit, Training and Bend Beer

Ian Sharman takes a more casual approach to ultrarunning written by Mackenzie Wilson

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mind + body

Ian Sharman

Pro Ultrarunner and Head Coach at SharmanUltra.com Age: 37 Born: Northampton, England Residence: Bend

WORKOUT

Sharman trains other ultrarunners.

HOW DOES AN economist from London who’s lived most of his life at sea level transform into an ultrarunner capable of conquering 100-milers above 10,000 feet? For Ian Sharman, 37 and of Bend, it all started with walking.

In 2005, Sharman was living in London and saw a TV show highlighting the Marathon des Sables race, 150 miles in six stages over seven days. It made him wonder if he could do something like that. He played sports growing up, but had never focused on running. “On the TV show, I saw people walking most of it and I thought, I’m sure I can walk for a week, that doesn’t seem like a big deal.”

The next year, Sharman signed up for the race. During stage three he got hyponatremia—dangerously low levels of sodium in his blood—and had to drop out.

Two years later he finished thirteenth, the highest a Brit had ever placed at that point in the race’s history. By 2011, Sharman was a sponsored ultrarunner specializing in 100-mile trail races.

Even with loads of titles to his name, Sharman couldn’t avoid the reality of ultrarunning as a profession. “About three months in, I was like, ‘Oh, this doesn’t really pay anything, so I have to do something else,’” he said.

Fellow U.K. ultrarunners had been asking him to coach them, so he started Sharman Ultra: Endurance Coaching. Now, Sharman is known as much for being an uberaccomplished ultrarunner as he is a coach.

He and a team of elite coaches help runners navigate training, prevent injury and develop grit—something Sharman knows a thing or two about.

The races he competes in keep him on his feet sometimes between twelve and twenty-four hours in temperatures above 100 degrees.

“Mental toughness matters a lot more than just pure physical fitness,” he said.

“The fitter you are, sometimes that can make you a little bit cocky and then you think it’s going to be easy, and it’s not easy.”

To accomplish such feats you’d assume takes perfection, but, Sharman says, far from it. “You can get away with being less than perfect if you do a lot of other things right,” he said.

Sharman has adopted a less-is-more training mantra, and doesn’t shy away from enjoying Bend’s craft beer scene.

“Usually I avoid alcohol for a couple of weeks before a major race, but otherwise it’s a big part of my lifestyle, and I tend to eat out multiple times per week,” he said. For an extreme athlete, Sharman has a refreshingly relaxed take on diet and exercise—maybe because he knows the best way to succeed at anything is to take it one step at a time.

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

Running, usually around ten to fifteen hours a week, plus hiking, especially in the Cascade Mountains, and light gym strength work a couple of times a week.

NUTRITION I try to eat a generally healthy and balanced diet without any fads, but Bend is such a beer town and that’s one of the things I love about it. Three staples in my diet are hummus, salmon and avocados.

INSPIRATION I’m inspired by worldclass distance runners like Mo Farah, Eliud Kipchoge and Haile Gebrselassie. Outside of sport, great leaders like Nelson Mandela have always shown me hope about the best side of humanity, and we need more people like him in the current world.

EVENTS • Down ’n’ Dirty Half in October

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Mural © The Artback

artist in residence

Art Climbs the Walls

Estacada’s artists paint the town red … and yellow and purple and …

“The Mushroom Forager,” designed by Nolene Triska and painted in 2012, is one of the various murals painted throughout Estacada.

written and photographed by Catie Joyce-Bulay

AT FIRST GLANCE, Estacada is a sleepy little pass-through town to get to recreation destinations in bordering Mount Hood National Forest. If you stop to stock up in the grocery store, you can’t help but notice a Native American tribe fishing Celilo Falls under the “Fresh Produce” sign. Then look across the street and huge mushrooms rise from the forest floor among apartment doors and a giant forager. On the wall next door, Chinese-Americans harvest ginseng, an important pre-World War I crop for the region. These are the murals of the Artback Artists Cooperative. Twenty-one in all, they are ubiquitous downtown and in surrounding parks, calling visitors to take notice of the rural town of 3,000’s surprisingly vibrant arts scene.

I recently spent a sunny summer morning touring the murals with two of their creators. Walking among them with artists Jenny Joyce and Kolieha Bush, they pointed out weather damage or something they’d change, giving me the history and often naming the people depicted in them.

“I think the door should be open on the chapel, don’t you think?” asked Bush while surveying a mural on Second Street.

“Kinzy Faire Garden,” designed in 2000 by Am Griswold, who also works in clay, depicts a lush local garden. No longer maintained, its beautiful blooms live on in the mural as part of the town’s history.

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“We’re doing this for Estacada, for people in the town,” said Joyce, who was part of the project’s founding and designed and led its first mural in 1994. “That’s hard for some to understand, but we’ve had real consistent support throughout the years.”

Half of the money they raise for murals comes from donations, the other half from grants.

Joyce, who, like Bush, works as an artist for McMenamins, moved to Estacada in the 1990s and soon got to know other artists living there. She had worked with children painting murals through Artists in the Schools, and she helped form the artists cooperative to raise money for the city’s first mural.

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Murals © The Artback

artist in residence

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP “The Early Trains of Estacada,” designed by John Freese, was originally painted with house paint in 1995 and repainted in 2015. Artists Kolieha Bush, left, and Jenny Joyce stand in front of 2003 mural “The Arts in Estacada,” designed by Joe Cotter. 2002’s “Tree of Life,” designed by Kolieha Bush, Reeva Wortel and Emily Hyde.

It was important to her and the other artists that they be compensated for their work. Joyce, who now lives in Portland and grew up with a love of art, has worked as a professional artist for her entire career.

“People think art is fun and they shouldn’t have to pay for it,” said Joyce, who shows her oil and canvas landscapes and abstracts in a couple Portland galleries. “There’s a lot of delusions about life as an artist. It’s important to pay us.” She credits the small stipend the artists receive to the group’s survival over the last twenty-four years.

The artists, a core group of ten with new additions each year, named themselves Artback, a play on “outback,” since they initially saw themselves as outliers. The murals have since made a great impact on the former logging and rail town and its residents not only embrace them, but feel a sense of pride over them.

The Artback Artists paint their mural the last weekend in July, which used to coincide with an event called Timberfest.

The mural painting soon became its own event, and a few years in, someone in town decided the artists should have music to paint to. A band appeared, Bush recalled. The festivities naturally developed into the Estacada Celebration, a home56 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

grown arts and music festival. The city bought a semi-truck stage and made the festival official in 2000.

“The first year the band was playing kind of for us,” said Bush, a resident of nearby Eagle Creek who works in a variety of media, including papier mâché and bronze and shows her work in downtown’s artist-run Spiral Gallery and at the Oregon Country Fair. She credits the fair’s creative spirit as an influence on her free-spirited art.

This year’s mural, one of the co-op’s most intricate designs, depicted the annual summer celebration. The mural, co-led

by Bush and calligraphy and watercolorist Nolene Triska, was inspired by a postcard Triska made of the celebration.

The first mural, “Fishing the Clackamas,” was completed in a day with house paint. The artists now use better-quality mural paint and a varnish with fixative to preserve the murals from weather and sun damage. The process now takes several days, but the murals should last at least twenty years. Unique to the group is its focus on the restoration of old murals.

“A town that’s full of faded murals is really sad,” Joyce said. “As we redo them, I think they’ve gotten better. I’m a better artist now than I was thirty years ago and to bring it back to life is really fun. I love that.”

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STARTUP 60 WHAT’S GOING UP 62 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 64 MY WORKSPACE 66

pg. 66 Baseballism’s flagship store sits near the Portland Beavers’ original stadium.

Brian Holstein

GAME CHANGER 68

PRESENTS

OCTOBER 25-27 A three-day event for creators, designers and thinkers.

startup

John Gardner demonstrates the technology with students at a National Federation of the Blind Camp.

Blind Man’s Vision Darkness for physicist illuminates needs for science, and ViewPlus answers the call written by Chris Peterson

IN 1988, JOHN GARDNER was a professor of physics at Oregon State University when his world went dark.

Literally. Routine glaucoma surgery left him blind. It was the proverbial thunderbolt that illuminated resource weaknesses just as technology and disability rights were ascending.

Gardner was well-placed to harness the positive energy of this perfect storm. He and partners would develop software and printers that allow blind students and professionals around the globe to comprehend, analyze and communicate ideas.

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Thanks to help from colleagues and then-rudimentary audio technology for computers, Gardner initially continued to teach and do research. But he couldn’t interpret data from his own lab and students without help from others. He was determined to create tools so he and others could work independently through other senses—touch and hearing.

Braille translates letters and numbers into a tactile language for the blind, but sciences rely on specialized symbols, graphs and charts to convey complex information. If someone has never seen an equation, terms like numerator, denominator or square root can be mind-boggling. Symbols and diagrams require such long descriptions that their meanings can be lost as they’re described. Math Braille is another complicated language altogether.

Gardner and local and international students and colleagues have invented tools or improved upon existing ones to communicate complicated concepts. Early on, it was a graphics calculator which used changing pitches of a tone to indicate points on a graph. Later, a young woman struggling with math prompted Gardner to develop DotsPlus to help sighted teachers convey mathematical terms to blind students

startup

FROM LEFT The ViewPlus EmBraille, Elite and Max are all printers that help the blind.

in their universal layout form, rather than learning math Braille or slogging through lengthy descriptions. Using the DotsPlus template with MS Word+MathType creates such equations.

Gardner had been receiving National Science Foundation grants for his university research for years, traveling regularly to Washington, D.C., for reviews and to confer with other project leaders. His NSF cohorts now asked how a blind person could direct physics research. One day, he showed what he thought was a handful of fellow project managers his idea for DotsPlus.

The NSF had recently been mandated by Congress to fund projects geared to people with disabilities, and it turned out someone who awarded those projects was in the room, too.

Gardner’s idea was immediately funded.

Braille printers at that time lacked the resolution and printer drivers to emboss DotsPlus, so developing an adequate embosser was a top priority Gardner and two students tackled. One student devised a grid system that led to a durable Braille embossing system. This was the first project of their newly established company, ViewPlus, in 1996. They patented and sold their first embosser in 1999. When the students moved on, Gardner and his wife, Carolyn, began building ViewPlus. She is his “eyes” in his non-academic life. While he worked at OSU, she coordinated the Adult Basic Education program at Linn-Benton Community

College’s Benton Center. She recognized that some tools for the blind could be helpful for learning dysfunctions, too.

Among recent products the company has developed is a printer that combines Braille and colored graphics so sighted and blind can work from the same printout. Another device uses audiotactile feedback to understand an embossed graph via a computer’s audio. Gardner demonstrated by putting a structural diagram of aspirin on his computer’s touchpad. Moving his hands along the embossed diagram and Braille, we listened to the description.

Only a fraction of the population requires Braille and tactile graphics, so ViewPlus’ market is small, but broad. Its software and printers are used in schools and businesses around the world and it has an office in Europe as well as the home base in Oregon.

Rarely is an inventor also a savvy business person, so running the business was challenging as well. That changed when the Gardners’ son, Dan, joined the business. He was a 19-year-old electrical engineering student when his father went blind. Though he occasionally helped with engineering suggestions, he had no desire to to join ViewPlus.

Then, when he switched to finance and business, he found himself frequently testing ideas on his family’s enterprise. Today he is ViewPlus C.E.O. and enjoys solving business problems as much as his father does technical problems.

Only a fraction of the population requires Braille and tactile graphics, so ViewPlus’ market is small, but broad. Its software and printers are used in schools and businesses around the world and it has an office in Europe as well as the home base in Oregon.

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 61

Renderings courtesy of SRG Partnership

what’s going up?

Athletic Pursuits

New athletic facilities, big and small, await for Oregon written by Sheila G. Miller MANY TRACK AND FIELD buffs are in mourning at the changes underway at historic Hayward Field. The facility, which was built in 1919 to house football and grew into the legendary location of Olympic Trials and USA Track and Field championships, has been torn down and will be rebuilt entirely using funds from the Phil and Penny Knight Foundation and other donors.

The new facility is the result of Eugene hosting the 2021 world outdoor championships. It will have an expanded capacity—from 8,500 to 12,900 with room for temporary seating up to 30,000—and a nine-story tower with an observation deck, as well as a locker room and an indoor practice facility. Missing from the facility will be the wooden stands where fans have cheered on racers for nearly a century.

The project was designed by SRG Partnership, and is expected to open in spring 2020.

On a much smaller scale, other communities are getting new athletic facilities as well. In Bend, Cascade Indoor Sports is opening a 48,500-square-foot facility with a trampoline zone on the first floor, a “pickleball zone” with eight indoor courts, and a third-floor viewing area and lounge.

Near West Linn, a plan is in place to construct a 95,000-square-foot indoor lacrosse and soccer facility. The twostory building in Wankers Corner would have a full-size soccer field with seating and other amenities around it.

The original plan was for the facility, from Fieldhouse Athletics LLC, to be finished this fall.

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2018

FROM TOP Hayward Field will be rebuilt to accommodate up to 30,000. The project is expected to be completed in 2020.

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what i’m working on

David Bantz is the owner of He Sells These Shells.

Selling Shells Reducing waste, and saving the environment, with hazelnut shells interview and photography by Vanessa Salvia

TURNS OUT, Oregon’s hazelnuts are good for more than making pies, cookies and eating out of hand. Tualatin resident David Bantz, owner of He Sells These Shells, sells cracked, bagged hazelnut shells to garden centers and at farmers markets, and has participated in research looking into how effective hazelnut shells are at removing toxins from water.

At home, Bantz has set aside a large area near his driveway where he unloads truckloads of hazelnut shells—80,000 pounds at a time. He bags them by hand and delivers them himself. Around his home, the hazelnut shells fill pots and line pathways, where this quintessential Oregon resource really shines. About 67,000 acres in Oregon are dedicated to growing the nut.

How did you get into selling hazelnut shells?

In 2008, I lost my job in land-use planning after the bottom fell out for land development. I found a couple part-time jobs in my field and didn’t like them, so I came home and told my wife, Sharie, that I was going to sell hazelnut shells! I had purchased some a number of years ago at a farmers market in Beaverton. I found a processor to buy directly from, and bought an antique weighing scale and started filling bags by hand. I’m selling to about twenty-five individual buyers that contact me directly, at the Milwaukie farmers market, a few hardware stores, the Backyard Bird Shop in West Linn and at thirtythree garden centers from Seattle to Cottage Grove. I also get about eight out of ten of my bags back for refills. I 64 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

fill orders the same day or within two days. Sharie can get thirty 25-pound bags in her Kia Soul so she delivers for me when I can’t.

What are the benefits of using hazelnut shells rather than other mulches?

The nut processors don’t have any desire for the shells, so in the past those have ended up being burned or buried. So using them helps alleviate that. The cracked shells are pointy and rough, so slugs don’t like to crawl on them and cats don’t like to dig in them.

They keep weeds from germinating because the shells are very dense, and in the sun they get really warm while also keeping the ground below them cooler, so weed seeds don’t germinate. The shells last for seven to eight seasons, while you have to

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

replace bark mulch every year or two.

They can be used to smoke meats and they add a nice flavor to barbecue. In fact, one of the uses I’m looking into is pelletizing them for wood stoves. You can pile the shells in the bottom of large pots to make them lighter and easier to move around.

Tell me about the water quality research into hazelnut shells.

The Port of Vancouver, a student at Cal Poly-Pomona and Georgia Tech have all used my shells for testing water quality. They’ve all found similar results. The Georgia study found that contaminated stormwater can be cleaned in the most effective way with nut shells in a burlap bag. The hazelnut filter removed more fecal coliform, hydrocarbons and heavy metals better than the $500 commercial filter.

Every Moment Covered

Full Spectrum News | opb.org 1859_slogans-image2018_FINALS.indd 3

8/2/18 8:48 AM

my workspace

My Workspace

Baseball For All

Oregon may not have a baseball team (yet), but it has a successful baseball company written by Beau Eastes photography by Brian Holstein

What started out as a youth baseball camp put on by four former University of Oregon club baseball players is now a $10 million a year lifestyle brand built around America’s pastime. That means you can purchase everything from T-shirts adorned with baseball terms like “Southpaw” and “Live Life Like a 3-1 Count” to $85 leather toiletry bags.

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Baseballism has retail shops in baseball hot spots around the country— Cooperstown, New York; Scottsdale, Arizona; Boston; and San Francisco to highlight a few—but its flagship store is in a beautifully renovated warehouse on Northwest 22nd and Quimby in Portland, just seven blocks from the Portland Beavers’ original stadium, Vaughn Street Park.

The company doesn’t have a licensing agreement with Major League Baseball, instead creating products from sayings and slogans familiar to passionate baseball fans. Baseballism does have two official licensing deals, one with the Babe Ruth family to use the iconic image of Ruth’s swing as part of its official logo, and another with the cult classic movie “Major League.”

2018

my workspace

The four former teammates, whose business cards feature pictures from their youth baseball days, have successfully marketed to old-school baseball fans who curse the designated hitter and Astroturf, as well as to a younger generation who grew up with Ken Griffey Jr. bouncing around the Kingdome with his hat on backward. Baseballism sells T-shirts and hoodies with baseball sayings that go back decades, but also produces caps with reclaimed carpet from PDX and handbags made from vintage glove leather.

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

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game changer

Erasing the Past, Rewriting the Future A tattoo removal program in downtown Portland extends far beyond body ink written by Corinne Whiting WHILE SOME ORGANIZATIONS aspire to leave their mark, Outside In’s tattoo removal program has the reverse aim. Located in downtown Portland, Project Erase has helped thousands of people get rid of body ink that serves as a painful reminder of their past. The main objective—to remove tattoos in the safest and most comfortable way possible. “(An example of ) tattoos that we might remove include visible gang-related symbols that could be a barrier to both successful employment as well as a risk to personal safety,” program coordinator Caroline Jackson said, “a tattoo that a victim of domestic violence was forced to get by their abuser or that directly triggers the trauma from past abuse, tattoos representative of past addiction whose removal provides a significant step toward recovery, (and) hate symbols that represent an ideology the client no longer subscribes to and hopes to move on from.”

The service is reserved for those living below 200 percent of the federal poverty level, and the fees follow a sliding scale, which ranges from $25 to $55 per treatment, depending on income and family size. The affordability can be credited to a dedicated team of doctors and nurse practitioners who volunteer their time.

Clients are never required to discuss their personal journey or reasons behind the removal.

Clients, who are anonymous, have had positive experiences with the program. “Removing the tattoos was the last stop on my recovery from traumatic circumstances that led up to them,” one said. “It’s not just erasing tattoos, it’s closing the book on the trauma that came with them.” Another commented, “Thanks to Project Erase, removing my facial tattoos has meant that I can seek upward mobility in my career without being immediately judged. … I feel like I can start my life over now, and this is infinitely valuable to me.”

Initially conceived by the Oregon Psychiatric Association, the program has experienced much growth since Outside In

A client undergoes a tattoo removal session.

took it on in 2002. The once-small operation now enjoys an expanded team and improved equipment. The team uses a Quanta Q+C laser to remove tattoos—and a chiller for pain management. Jackson said it can take anywhere from five to fifteen treatments, depending on a person’s immune system, the depth and thickness of the ink and whether the work was done with a professional tattoo gun or by an alternative method.

Sessions are scheduled six to eight weeks apart to give the immune system time to remove the ink particles.

Jackson first volunteered at Outside In before jumping at the chance to join the program about a year ago. She raves about the clients she meets through an all-inclusive project that “doesn’t have a lot of barriers.” She always chats with first-time clients— over the phone or in person. And if folks don’t have internet access to complete the online application, they can mail in a paper version or call in.

“I think the common thread is that so many clients are in a place of trying to move forward, which is really inspiring,” Jackson said. “I’m really inspired by people’s growth and determination.”

“Removing the tattoos was the last stop on my recovery from traumatic circumstances that led up to them. It’s not just erasing tattoos, it’s closing the book on the trauma that came with them.”

— a Project Erase client 68 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

This Century Modern

H2O TODAY An exhibit from the Smithsonian Institution Traveling Exhibition Service

Dive into H20, our planet’s lifeblood.

Through interactive displays and scientific insights, discover creative ways to steward our water resources well into the future.

by THE SHELTER STUDIO INC.

theshelterstudio.com | designs built for the environment | 541.306.4270

1680 East 15th Avenue, Eugene | natural-history.uoregon.edu H2O Today is adapted from an exhibition by the American Museum of Natural History, New York.

Jen G. Pywell

The Passive House in Corvallis proves sustainable design doesn’t have to look modern.

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Green Living Step inside these recent sustainable home designs from around the state written by Melissa Dalton

O

REGON HAS SOME serious green building cred, but there’s always room for improvement. Governor Kate Brown led the state into an embrace of energy conservation when, last November, she signed an executive order stating that newly constructed residences must demonstrate 40 to 50

percent more energy efficiency than conventional construction. Intrigued, we checked out three recent sustainable builds to better understand what our future neighborhoods might look like.

David Paul Bayles

Jen G. Pywell

FROM LEFT The “reading cave” is one of the Christiansons’ personal touches.

The home is a Craftsman style.

The First Passive House in Corvallis CHOOSING TO BUILD their first home was a nobrainer for Carl and Julie Christianson. He runs G. Christianson Construction, which was started by his parents in Corvallis in 1986. Less obvious is that the couple would make their home a certified Passive House.

Although Carl’s company had never built one, the project suited his natural curiosity. “As someone who’s into gadgets and being innovative, this is an innovative way to build,” Julie Christianson said. “It’s a release for his creativity, trying to figure out how to make it all work.”

Buildings, both residential and commercial, account for 39 percent of energy use across the United States, with most of that energy obtained from fossil fuels and nuclear sources. Constructing to the Passive House standard is a tried-and-true method to drastically reduce a home’s energy consumption and thereby the carbon emissions that result from the energy generated for the structure. The Passive House model attains such energy efficiency through a concert of components, including continuous insulation and elimination of thermal bridges for airtightness, high-performance windows and doors, and controlled ventilation. Gaining experience with Passive House construction, and becoming certified in the approach, was a logical step for Christianson as more customers seek to save energy. “As a builder in town, that’s definitely the direction we wanted to go as a company,” Christianson said.

Once the Christiansons found an empty lot in the Brooklane neighborhood, they collaborated with Eugene architect Jan Fillinger, a self-described “passive house geek” and co-author of a book on the subject. Fillinger

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and a team of consultants delivered the complex modeling needed for Christianson’s crew to achieve such high levels of airtightness, while the couple pored over the home’s details. The Christiansons knew they wanted a Craftsman-style home from the beginning. “I think a lot of people think a Passive House has to look modern,” Julie Christianson said.

Now, quality finishes and a thoughtful use of space govern the home, from the gracious front porch to the classic interior trim and generous windows. The house brims with personal touches, such as the hickory floor inlaid with a compass rose that recalls Julie Christianson’s summers on a tall ship, and the “reading cave,” an alcove under the stairs that reminds Carl Christianson of a childhood spent reading books beside his father’s rocking chair. Then there’s the intangible benefits, like a stable internal air temperature from all the insulation, no pesky drafts, and continuously filtered air free of pollens and pollutants. “I think a lot of people look strictly at the cost of the components,” Christianson said. “But what they’re missing is that by putting all the pieces together, you end up with a house that’s really comfortable.”

In 2017, the project became the first certified Passive House in Corvallis, and with solar panels installed on the garage, is nearly Net Zero. Yet as important as such details are, the bigger picture is even more so. “Carl’s house avoids 19 tons of CO2 every year compared to a code house,” Fillinger said. “If all houses throughout the entire United States did that, it is possible to slow down carbon emissions to the point that we can slow down global warming and eventually, hopefully, reverse it.”

Photos: Claire Thorington, Courtesy of Green Hammer

A Net Zero Home for Retirement in Shady Cove IN ORDER TO PREPARE a realistic budget for retirement, you have to trim the fat. While concocting their plans, David and Debbie Hill figured out one way to keep their monthly household costs down—the couple built their forever home to Net Zero energy standards.

Why? “So our utility bills won’t be very high!” Debbie Hill said. “We’re retirees. It just seemed like the way to go.”

Prior to moving to Southern Oregon, the Hills lived in Columbus, Ohio, for thirty years and worked as information analysts for a division of the American Chemical Society. Upon inheriting a 1-acre lot in the small town of Shady Cove, they decided to swap out the dilapidated house on it for one that would suit their lifestyle. “We wanted to build a smaller, energy-efficient home for retirement,” Debbie Hill said. “I didn’t want a big house to clean. A smaller house would be convenient for us to grow old in.” The couple worked with architect Erica Dunn from the design/build firm Green Hammer to create a 3,200-square-foot home that balances peak energy efficiency with warm and modern conviviality.

Dunn started by designing the home to Passive House principles. “With our focus on the Passive House envelope, it’s the most cost-effective way to get to Net Zero energy and drive those loads down,” she said. Triple-pane windows, superior insulation and careful positioning on the lot to optimize solar exposure are all supplemented by a rooftop solar array to achieve Net Zero. That means the house generates

as much renewable energy over the course of the year as it consumes. “In the summer, our [monthly] electric bills, even though we run the AC, are just a minimal $10.96,” Hill said. The house is tied to the grid, so that amount covers a standard connection fee imposed by the power company.

Next, Dunn incorporated aging-in-place strategies to ensure the home would comfortably accommodate all of the occupants, which include the Hills, Debbie’s father and their four dogs. The lot slopes down at the back toward the Rogue River, so Dunn kept the house at a low profile on the approach, with all of the primary living spaces on-grade with the site. “The thought was that a wheelchair wouldn’t have any thresholds to cross on the main floor,” Dunn said. A plethora of built-in storage and durable finishes make for easy maintenance, as well as an organic, modern aesthetic. “We used a lot of fir throughout, because that has such a nice rich color and tone to it,” Dunn said. That warmth extends to the exterior, where multiple inset porches are clad with cedar reclaimed from a deconstructed wood trestle bridge in the region.

These days, the Hills are living just the life they sought in their new house, whether that’s listening to the sound of the river from the porch or enjoying the night sky from the rooftop deck. “It’s certainly built to meet all our needs,” David Hill said. “That is, everything we need and nothing we don’t.”

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT The Net Zero home in Shady Cove has triple-pane windows. The home has fir finishes. A solar array on the roof generates renewable energy.

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Small, Smart & Sustainable / Salem / Eco-rated Prefab Homes

Bronson Studios Photography

Robin Rigby Fisher Design/Dale Lang

ideabox

In the early aughts, architect Jim Russell saw a niche in the market.

“We were watching the initial versions of what prefab is today,” Russell said. “We were looking at what was in the magazines and seeing that they were all at a pretty high price point.” Russell, who has a career background in energy and resource efficiency and factory-built housing, decided to take a different approach and in 2006, launched ideabox, which creates small, well-designed, affordable, green-rated prefab homes.

Based in Salem, ideabox now has a range of models and sizes to choose from, starting from the 430-square-foot minibox for $111,800 and climbing to the 1,658-square-foot Roadrunner for $198,900. Each home comes equipped with a menu of green features, including a wellinsulated shell, energy efficient windows, Energy Star appliances, no-VOC paints and low- to no-formaldehyde cabinetry. But most important to Russell is that customers get a home that suits the way they like to live.

“One of the compliments that we get from clients is that they know they’re in a house that’s unique,” Russell said. “And for us, any time we can build something that’s smaller and lessens the carbon footprint, that’s a pretty rockin’ place to live.”

/ Portland / A Net Zero ADU

/ Summer Lake / A Small Rural Retreat Nestled in a prairie at the edge of the Great Basin, this modest, shed-roofed home effortlessly blends in with its natural setting.

Located at the PLAYA Artist Retreat Center at Summer Lake, the two-bedroom, 885-square-foot cottage was designed by William Roach, PLAYA’s co-founder, and Nir Pearlson and Roger Ota of Nir Pearlson Architects.

While the group referenced the history of the region with the use of corrugated steel siding and a red metal roof on the exterior, the interior framing was more forward-looking.

Panelized walls were built in a factory in Eugene, which cuts down on waste and environmental impact during construction, then erected on site and filled with double insulation. As Pearlson recently wrote in Fine Homebuilding magazine: “Early on, we decided to gear the design toward prefabrication, which we believe is the future of affordable and sustainable housing.”

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You might call it an experiment. In 2016, a client approached Portland-based Birdsmouth Construction about adding a 665-square-foot apartment over their two-car garage in Southeast Portland. The plan was to convert it into an Accessory Dwelling Unit, but this wouldn’t be a run-of-the-mill remodel. The homeowner hoped to certify the new digs as a Passive House. Typically, “very small buildings don’t do well as good candidates for certified Passive House,” said Birdsmouth designer Ben Valentin. “But we said we’d give it a shot.”

While that initial goal did prove to be out of reach, when the project wrapped in early 2018 the team had fashioned a remarkably energy-efficient structure. Triple-pane windows and continuous super-insulation make for supreme airtightness, while a mini-split heat pump and heat recovery ventilator ensure top-notch ventilation and interior comfort. With the addition of a small solar array, the ADU is now certified Net Zero and generating more energy on site than it needs over a year. We call that a win.

Photos: skylab

An Energy-Efficient Modular Home in Portland LIKE THE MANY 100-year-old bungalows on this Northeast Portland block, this new home also started with a basement foundation. But that’s where the similarities end. On a sunny fall morning in 2012, semi-trucks arrived at the site to offload the rest of the house. They were soon assisted by giant cranes to lift and stack six angular modules into place, while a crowd of onlookers gathered on the sidewalk to observe the progress. “By 4 p.m. the whole house was there, which was a remarkable thing to watch,” said Jeff Kovel, architect and principal of Skylab Architecture.

“There’s nothing there in the morning, and then a house is there in the evening.”

In 2009, the Seattle-based prefab company Method Homes contacted Kovel to design a modular scheme suitable for city infill lots. It was the recession, the building world was in chaos, and Kovel had the bandwidth. “We wanted to be able to provide a custom architectural solution through a more accessible process and hopefully at a more accessible price point,” he said.

His firm devised, essentially, a “set of building blocks” composed of 100-square-foot triangular modules, which can be combined and customized in a range of floor plans that respond to a variety of site conditions.

“We had seen in the prefab market that there were a lot of standard floor plans that may or may not fit the site really well, so we wanted to move beyond that limitation,” Kovel said. He and Method have since dubbed the system HOMB in a combination of the word “home” and the honeycomb aspect of combining modules, with the Portland installation the prototype.

The triangle shape serves a dual purpose. For starters, it’s the “strongest shape,” making it wellsuited to truck transportation or being hoisted in the air by a crane. “They can’t flex as much. That flexing would theoretically pop the grout out of the tile or put cracks in the drywall,” Kovel said. Being able to deliver a building in such a complete state means project timelines can be buttoned up more quickly.

The Portland home only took six or seven months from basement excavation to move-in, which is several months less than a normal house build might need. The triangle shape also serves up a dramatic, almost iconic, form. “We liked how they help break up that boxy modern look that’s so common in prefab,” Kovel said.

Part of the owners’ brief was for a sustainable home, which the prefab process is well-positioned to deliver. Construction waste is significantly reduced since the home is built off-site in Method’s Ferndale, Washington, factory, where off-cuts and excess can be saved and used on other projects. The controlled conditions eliminate exposure to the elements and potential moisture problems. According to Skylab, the home’s exceptional insulation values and highperformance building skin deliver energy savings of roughly 40 percent over homes built to code. Plus, the rooftop is ready for a solar array. Efficient mechanical systems complete the picture, as well as low-VOC finishes for improved indoor air quality. Said Kovel: “Prefab in general is just a tighter, greener approach to building.”

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

FROM LEFT The triangular modules from Method Homes. The interior is light and airy.

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Portland is a city of bridges, and behind these bridges is a cadre of people making sure they operate smoothly.

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ALL ALONG THE WATCHTOWERS Inside the lives of Portland’s bridge tenders written by Scott Latta / photography by Shauna Intelisano

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 77

EVEN BY THE DREARY STANDARDS OF PORTLAND WINTERS, 2017 was especially bleak. At one point, five storms slammed Portland in five weeks. The Weather

Channel, stating what everyone in the city was thinking, dubbed it “America’s most winter-fatigued city.” When a foot of snow fell in one twenty-four-hour period in January, the nation gawked as hapless Portlanders abandoned their cars along impossibly glassy hills.

But the real trouble started two months later, when the sun came out.

Federal guidelines maintain that when the Willamette River rises above 12 feet, all Portland bridges must be staffed twenty-four hours a day. Under normal circumstances, it’s not a problem for the county’s eight full-time bridge operators. But as the snow melted in the Cascades—141 percent of its normal depth—it collected in reservoirs within the mountains’ foothills. Slowly, the Army Corps of Engineers released the water into the Willamette so as to not flood the river. It meant the city could carry on as normal, but that the river would be above 12 feet from March 10 to June 19—101 consecutive days. Endless winter gave way to endless work.

Full-time and on-call operators took on twelve-hour shifts. Road maintenance workers were trained to raise bridges. Today, a county spokesman looks back on it as “a real challenge.” But 44-year-old Kristian Williams, who has sat in the control rooms of Portland’s bridges for more than two years, remembers it more pointedly.

“Bonkers,” he said.

It’s a curious job that has a way of attracting naturally curious people. “I wanted to be a bridge operator for as long as I realized there were bridge operators,” Williams said. Before this, he worked as a night clerk at a hostel in Northwest Portland. “What I didn’t anticipate was that I was really just going to like the work.”

On Tammy Vanderlinden’s second day as lead bridge operator, she arrived to the Morrison Bridge at 6:40 a.m. to find a car on fire. Vanderlinden’s journey to the Morrison was not unlike her peers’. A year earlier, she worked at a steel factory. Before that, she drove a bus for TriMet on 78 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

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a route that crossed the Hawthorne, beneath the dutiful watch of operators she would later supervise. For years, she made industrial silicon wafers. She carried mail.

“It was just like, ‘That sounds cool,’” she said. “I think as long as it’s interesting and you’re still learning, you come to work and you’re excited, people appreciate you, and you can do something for the community—those are the things that are exciting to me. In this job so far I haven’t gotten bored. It’s always something new.”

Being a bridge operator is a little like being a lighthouse keeper and a little like being a firefighter. You have to be able to manage long stretches of unstructured time, ticking off work orders and startling thrill-seeking teenagers through the loudspeakers, knowing that any morning could greet you with a burning car or any ship with a blasting horn.

“I’m sure a lot of people are surprised,” Vanderlinden said, “especially when they’re doing stupid stuff on the bridge and I get on the PA and say, ‘I can see you, knock it off,’ and they’re like, ‘There’s somebody up here? Oh my god.’”

Multnomah County’s bridge operators oversee four of Portland’s downtown bridges—the Broadway, Burnside, Morrison and Hawthorne. Only the Hawthorne, the oldest vertical-lift bridge in America and the busiest bike and transit bridge in Oregon, is staffed twenty-four hours a day, seven days a week.

The Hawthorne was a steel marvel when it opened in 1910, a modern solution to the precarious timber bridges that traversed the Willamette in Portland’s earliest days.

In 1913, it carried 1,600 vehicles and 1,200 horse-drawn carriages a day. On any given day now, it transports 30,000

Lead bridge operator Tammy Vanderlinden enjoys the job because “it’s always something new.”

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Built in 1910, the Hawthorne Bridge is the oldest vertical lift bridge operating in the U.S. During her shifts, Tammy Vanderlinden stays busy by watching the river, working on projects and responding to incidents on and around the bridge, as well as safely lifting and lowering the bridge. A boat passes under the Hawthorne Bridge.

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vehicles, 8,000 bicycles, and 800 buses, or roughly the population of Corvallis.

But the Hawthorne’s endurance over hundreds of thousands of lifts isn’t a testament to its construction as much as to the men and women who have tended to it for 108 years. By 1930, just twenty years after the bridge opened, Portland estimated it would only last another decade. It was the operators who kept it alive—who noticed how the timber platform warped and cracked in the summer heat, who learned to constantly lubricate the cables, and who even today lift the bridge at regular intervals to wake it up and let it stretch its knees.

The rope-and-pulley routine of Hawthorne’s early days has given way to a touch screen that starts the delicate mechanical dance. Gates lower, span locks release, engines rotate, and 1.8 million pounds of concrete eases toward the water, lifting the center span—and the bridge operator, along with the occasional stowaway falcon—into the sky.

IT’S ONE OF THE LONELIEST JOBS in Portland—on the Hawthorne especially, Williams said, you might not see another person after relieving the one before you. But it may also be one of the most contemplative.

Especially on graveyard shifts, long stretches of silence settle in when river traffic stops. As long as the work is done and you can take action at a moment’s notice, you can kind of just … do what you want. Williams reads The Economist and Oscar Wilde. Some operators knit. Vanderlinden spent time learning Dutch so she could speak to her husband’s family.

You are flanked by the city but separate from it, surrounded by people but above them, a fixed post in the current.

Even sound feels farther away. The rush of traffic over the Hawthorne’s steel grates dies in the operator’s booth as a lifeless buzz. A police siren bounces off downtown buildings and dissolves over the water.

“I think that’s when you get kind of lonely, when it’s nighttime,” Vanderlinden said. The self-proclaimed daughter of a hippie, Vanderlinden spent an itinerant childhood in Berkeley, Seattle and Mexico before she was old enough to choose to stay in Oregon. Like all operators, she started on call. When she came on full-time, she applied for the lead operator position and got it. Now she leads the team from the bridge office three days a week and puts in two weekend day shifts on the Morrison.

She has spent so many hundreds of hours watching the bridges that she talks about them as if describing her

kids to a new babysitter. The Hawthorne is polite and well behaved. The Broadway, not so much. (“You’re going to get creamed if you don’t get out of their way.”) The Burnside is all business.

From the top of the bridge, maybe better than anywhere else in the city, she can see both Portlands—the one that rose alongside the river over the course of many decades, sprinkled with signs of the one to come.

“You see right on the east end of the Burnside they’re pulling down the Fishels building,” Vanderlinden said, with something like nostalgia. “That’s going to be something new. They’ve got the new courthouse going in on the west side. That’s going to be a tall glass structure. It’s going to be really different.”

The bridges, too, will change. The impending Cascadia earthquake means it’s time for Multnomah County to decide whether to retrofit the Burnside Bridge or replace it altogether—for about $500 million. The Hawthorne, with its twin 450-ton concrete counterweights, would be a catastrophe, but the price tag means the decision of what to do about it may be for the next generation.

If the bridges do come down, whether by collapse or by choice, much will be lost. The paintings a previous operator left behind inside the Burnside; the “hobbit door” Vanderlinden squeezes through to enter the Morrison; the sight of a lazy peregrine riding a flagpole into the sky. These things create a sense of place, and the operators a sense of constancy. A bridge operator is not an anachronism, whether you can open the Hawthorne from a laptop or not. (You can.) She is a human, at the end of the day, there to watch out for other humans. That’s what would be lost if the bridges were managed from a computer. Who would be there to greet the flaming car, or to call out to the reckless teenager? To offer a pack of cigarettes to the man dangling his legs over the edge, alone?

Being a bridge operator makes you more conscious of the city around you and more aware of your place in it. You think about things you didn’t know were worth thinking about before. That’s why when you ask Williams his favorite time of year to be on the bridge, he pauses for twenty-four full seconds before deciding—winter. The things that went through his mind to bring him there, the solitary privileges of his position, are the same things Tammy Vanderlinden means when she explains why she loves her job.

“You see the whole city around you,” she said, “moving.”

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Carver Alex Pricob, of Renton, Washington, works on a piece during the McKenzie River Chainsaw & Arts Festival.

CUTTING EDGE

photography by Bradley Lanphear

EACH YEAR, some of the world’s top chainsaw carvers (yep, that’s a real thing) gather in Blue River to crown the best of the best. The carvers use their chainsaws to transform logs and stumps into finely carved sculptures— eagles, bears, even Sasquatch. The event, organized and held at the McKenzie Community Track & Field, is an annual festival—mark your calendar for July 19-21, 2019, to see the action in person.

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A bear begins to take shape at the hands of Bob King, a chainsaw carving artist based in Edgewood, Washington.

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT Bob King concentrates on his carving. David Duckett, of Mill Creek Wood Works, stands by some of his artwork.

Jacob Lucas, of Bonney Lake, Washington, has been carving since 2004. A festival competitor shows off his carving skills.

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

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Linda Chavez is the first woman to compete at the McKenzie River Chainsaw & Arts Festival.

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Tristin Lemmons, left, of Coos Bay, and Alex Pricob work on pieces during the festival. A bald eagle carving.

Chainsaw artist Jacob Lucas created this dragon sculpture.

TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 90 ADVENTURE 92 LODGING 96 TRIP PLANNER 98

pg. 98 The Tower Theatre is a little like Bend’s living room.

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In the Shadow of the Giant The giant sequoia of Queen of Angels Monastery written and photographed by Betsy L. Howell

MORE THAN 700 MILES from its native range in California, a 125-yearold giant sequoia tree welcomes visitors to the Queen of Angels Monastery in Mount Angel.

In 1893, Sister Protasia Schindler found the seedling growing beside the railroad tracks. She immediately dug it up to plant next to the monastery’s entrance. Many years later, she said that if she’d known how large it would grow, she never would have planted it so close to the monastery.

The tree now dwarfs the building as well as the other trees on the grounds, including one of its progeny planted in 1982. In 2004, the giant sequoia was designated an Oregon Heritage Tree. This honor is bestowed for an individual tree’s historical significance, accessibility to the public, and general health.

The Benedictine Sisters at Queen of Angels welcome people of all faiths for personal, overnight retreats, or for shorter visits to explore and enjoy the grounds.

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Alysia Kezerian’s travels have taken her around the world, including Salzburg, Amsterdam, Vienna, Prague and Bratislava.

Accessible Adventure Alysia Kezerian may use a wheelchair, but that’s not stopping her travels written by Mackenzie Wilson IF THE LITTLE ENGINE That Could was a person, it would be Alysia Kezerian. The 24-year-old, from Danville, California, hasn’t let anything get in the way of her seeing the world, not even a devastating injury.

In 2015, Kezerian, then a student at the University of Oregon, was paralyzed from a fall at Smith Rock State Park near Terrebonne. She was bouldering up a 10-foot rock face and on the way back down, a section of the rock broke off, sending her to the ground. Adrenaline dulled her initial understanding of whether she was hurt. “I thought, oh I didn’t hit my head, I’m fine,” Kezerian said. “Then I tried to move my legs and I couldn’t.”

It took rescue crews seven hours to get Kezerian out of the park because of the unforgiving terrain. Before going into surgery at St. Charles Medical Center in Bend, an orthopedic surgeon told her she shattered her L2 vertebrae. “I remember just flat out asking, ‘Am I going to walk again?’ He said it was very unlikely, that I had complete paralysis,” Kezerian said.

Many people would have given up on their dreams of traveling.

Not Kezerian—she has continued traveling internationally, inspiring other people with limited abilities through her Instagram page, Wheelies Around the World, to go on adventures and find ways to keep traveling.

In 2016, she returned to the University of Oregon, but not for long. She dreamed of studying abroad. The logistics were 92 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

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an uphill battle, but a counselor helped make it happen. “No one ever said, ‘This is going to be too hard. Don’t do it,’” she said. “Everyone was like, ‘This might be hard, but we’re so up for the challenge.’”

Kezerian traveled internationally before her injury, but knew it would be different after. She says a lot of the problems that come up for her while traveling now would surprise able-bodied people. “The biggest piece with traveling for long periods of time, for people with spinal cord injuries, is making sure you’re not sitting on your bum for too long,” Kezerian said. “For some people, there’s no muscle tissue down there so it’s easy to get pressure sores.”

She said all airplanes are supposed to have an aisle chair that can help people who use a wheelchair get on and off the flight and allow them to have access to the bathroom during the flight—but in her experience, not everyone is fully trained to use them. “I personally will just hold it for eleven hours,” Kezerian said. If that’s not an option, she’ll book a layover to make sure she has proper access to a bathroom during her travels.

While studying abroad in Vienna, Austria, Kezerian found it to be more accessible than many places she visited in Europe. “I stayed in a vacation rental in Paris where there was an elevator, but it wasn’t wide enough for my chair … my friends were super resourceful, though. I would stay in the elevator and the boys would meet me at the top with my chair,” Kezerian said. The “top” was six flights up. Bathrooms in Europe were a constant struggle for Kezerian. Most the time they weren’t accessible and even if they qualified as accessible in the particular place, Kezerian said the requirements weren’t the same as in the United States. “Most door widths in the U.S. are just wide enough to fit the size wheelchair that I have,” Kezerian said. “In Europe they are way smaller,

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adventure

“Helping people see that the entire world is there, you just have to approach it strategically, that’s been very fulfilling.”

— Alysia Kezerian so sometimes I’d have to pop a wheel off of my chair and have someone help me through.”

The struggles she’s had traveling all seem insignificant against the backdrop of the Eiffel Tower, the Swiss Alps or the canals in Amsterdam, but they did inspire her to create a platform for people who use wheelchairs to share their experiences traveling. Kezerian launched Wheelies Around the World on Instagram in July 2017 and built a following of nearly 5,000 people.

She’s received messages from people who never thought they’d be able to travel internationally again. “Helping people see that the entire world is there, you just have to approach it strategically, that’s been very fulfilling,” Kezerian said. The page also gained a following from able-bodied people. “I didn’t make the page with the thought of creating any sort of social change, but it’s cool how that has sort of come along with it.”

Since her injury, Kezerian has graduated college, traveled to thirteen countries and now works as an administrative assistant in San Francisco. She’s also baffled doctors by taking steps on her own.

At St. Charles in 2015, she noticed her hip flexor twitching, but doctors told her that was normal. She didn’t get her hopes up. “I took what they said to heart. You know that it happens sometimes—signals get through,” Kezerian said. That twitch was always in the back of her mind, and now she’s regained use of about twenty muscles in her legs.

Doctors can’t tell her why she’s regained the use of some of her muscles. “Spinal cord injuries are probably one of the most ambiguous injuries you could possibly get,” Kezerian said.

“There’s just not enough research to give a definitive answer.”

Now that she’s taken steps on her own and even climbed flights of stairs, she’s unsure of what her future holds.

“I feel like my head is sort of being split between two worlds right now—the world of accepting being in a wheelchair and learning to love it and celebrating that … but then also really wanting to walk,” Kezerian said.

One thing she’s sure of is that there’s no end in sight for Wheelies Around the World. “I’ll always have a part of my life where I was in a wheelchair and I know what it’s like to be treated differently, and I know what it’s like to try and travel in it,” Kezerian said. “So even if I did start walking again, there’s a huge part of me that still can really empathize with people in that situation.”

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Nestled deep in the ruggedly beautiful 360,000-acre Eagle Cap Wilderness, this unique property is the result of a painstaking six-year buildout by Portland-based owner Barnes Ellis, who first stumbled upon the lodge while attending a childhood family reunion.

Carefully constructing the main lodge and adjacent cabins from felled logs, reclaimed wood from former structures and building materials delivered via helicopter, Ellis reopened the lodge in 2017, instantly attracting a diverse collection of intrepid guests willing to go the extra mile (or eight) for a one-of-akind backcountry experience.

Photos: Evan Schneider

HISTORY

DINING

A hearty appetite is mandatory ’round these parts—with the help of a rotating crew of live-in staff members who pitch in to chop vegetables, pour wine and wash dishes, executive chef Carl Krause turns out epic ranch breakfasts like house-cured pastrami hash with thick wedges of buttery German pancake, and show-stopping family-style suppers that might involve smoked Carman Ranch rib-eyes and dark chocolate brownies smothered in smoked cherry compote one night, and juicy roast Hawkins Sisters Ranch chickens with homemade brown butter spaetzle and charred Walla Walla onion salsa the next. Lured by the ring of an old-fashioned dinner bell, guests gather to feast in the highceilinged dining room overlooking the meadow, forging new friendships over Minam Margaritas, bottles of Willamette Valley pinot noir and pints of the lodge’s signature IPA, brewed by Enterprisebased Terminal Gravity.

ACTIVITIES

With no cell service or internet to speak of, days are filled with whatever wilderness activity suits your frontier fantasy—horseback riding along the wild-trout-packed Minam River, hiking the Wallowa-Whitman National Forest’s 535 miles of trail, or paying a visit to nearby Red’s Horse Ranch, a National Forest Service-owned former dude ranch frozen in time. Come nightfall, sit on the deck with a single malt scotch and trade tales with fellow cabin dwellers, or tramp through the forest to the wood-fired hot tub for a soak under the stars—zero light interference means a dazzling celestial display—contemplating life, love and what delights tomorrow’s breakfast menu might bring.

Lodging

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The lodge offers suites as well as cabins. From the lodge deck, views include the Wallowa Mountains. Guests eat dinner together.

Minam River Lodge written by Jen Stevenson WHETHER DROPPING into the Minam River Lodge via foot, horseback, or chartered flight, there are two things you’ll do immediately after being warmly greeted by manager and jack-of-all-trades Isaac Trout—sign a waiver detailing the potential wilderness perils you’ll face (snakes, bears, overheating in the wood-fired sauna), and write your name on a mason jar. After all, when you’re an 8.5-mile hike or 20-minute flight from the nearest sign of civilization, dishwashers aren’t exactly de rigueur.

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350 Resort Drive, Diamond Lake, ORegon | 541.793.3333 | diamondlake.net

ART in Bend’s OLD MILL DISTRICT

trip planner

Shoulder Season

Turns out, Bend is a year-round kind of town

The Old Mill is Bend’s premier shopping destination.

written by Kevin Max

BEND IN FALL, once a vacuum between summer mountain biking and ski season, is now one built around culture, the absence of crowds and top-to-bottom blue skies in the waning fire season.

When kids go back to school and the floating battalion of protein in Crocs and flip-flops flops their way back south, Bend comes alive in a more subtle way. Fall brings the BendFilm festival, Oktoberfest, uncrowded trails, relatively open tables and the final bounty from area farms.

As we witness the ravages of global warming, with hotter summers leading to more and bigger wildfires, summer is the nexus of hot, smoky and grey. As temperatures cool and wildfires recede, hiking and biking trails in Bend transform from temptation to reality.

Much like Christmas, BendFilm Festival comes but once a year— setting cultural gifts under the learning tree for all of the boys and 98 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

girls who have tired of formulaic box office hits. It’s a time to travel without leaving your theater seat, a time to walk a mile in the shoes of others through the ambitious billing of documentary films, and a time to meet upcoming actors and filmmakers during BendFilm parties.

Spanning a long weekend of October 11-14 and many venues, the fifteenth annual festival brings in great films and turns out the best in Bendites.

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

Day OUTDOORS • BENDFILM FEST Sparks Lake, in the shadow of Mount Bachelor, is an emerald-green body of water that many flock to in the summer. In September, however, the crowd recedes and its true beauty emerges. Now is the best time to grab your standup paddleboard (or rent one in town) and stroke your way across its pristine surface. Be sure to bring a camera in a waterproof bag. You’ll definitely want to save this scene and this memory. Pick up some sandwiches or sushi at Newport Avenue Market and bring a picnic lunch. When you stop on the banks of Sparks in September, you’ll notice that mosquitoes, too, are gone for the year.

trip planner

Zach Violett

Megan Morse

Megan Morse

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Sparks Lake has views and solitude. Rainshadow Organics offers farm-to-table dinners. Wild Rose isn’t your average Thai spot. Gravel riding is a very Bend pursuit.

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trip planner

For those who prefer terra firma, or if you have a mixed group of interests, try the nearby Green Lakes Trail just up the road. This hike is a consistent climb of 1,100 over 4.2 miles up to a mountain lake. This is another beautiful place for a picnic lunch or merely to dip your feet in the cold water. You can either double back from there or go the full loop by taking the Soda Creek Trail. Either way, the average round trip without a lunch stop will take four to six hours.

Back in downtown Bend, the BendFilm Festival is abuzz in theaters, restaurants and bars. Now in its fifteenth year, the film fest brings in some of the best up-and-coming filmmakers, who mingle with festivalgoers and are incredibly accessible at BendFilm parties throughout the weekend. This is a good chance to step out of the mind-numbing blockbuster formula and get back to a mindset of active film watching.

Downtown Bend offers an ever-increasing palate of restaurants and cuisines. After a film, stay downtown and duck down the back side of Tower Theatre for Oaxacan tacos and craft beer at Taps & Tacos, a new cultural offering from Worthy Brewing. Wild Rose, a cozy northern Thai restaurant on Oregon Avenue, serves up beautifully spiced dishes like manna. Zydeco Kitchen + Cocktails offers a refined Southern and Cajun menu that updates American classics in the process.

If you have an ambitious travel planner in your party, get a reservation for a longtable dinner at Rainshadow Organics, a 40-minute drive into neighboring Sisters. This experience on a stunning organic farm will last well beyond your weekend.

Day

Megan Morse

LOCAL BITES • GRAVEL RIDING • CRATER LAKE SPIRITS Sparrow Bakery in Northwest Crossing is one of the best ways to start any day. Handmade pastries with good local coffees fuel the buzzing bakery. Downtown, La Magie Bakery is the place for french toast stuffed with marionberry and mascarpone cheese and dipped in custard. Either of these bakeries should get your day started on the right foot.

When you ponder Bend in the high desert, Ponderosa pines dominate the landscape of that reverie. Shevlin Park, on the northwest side of Bend, however, is situated around the babbling beauty of Tumalo Creek. Aspens and Western Larches mark the changing of the season with vibrant yellows in an otherwise evergreen forest. There is the 2.5-mile Tumalo Creek Trail that meanders along the western bank of the creek and the scenic 6-mile loop if you’re feeling up to it.

From the parking lot, it’s easy to right-size your hike—whether you’re with small kids or determined thru-hikers.

By now, you know about gravel riding and the miles of trails in and around Bend. You may have even ponied up for your own gravel bike.

No matter—there are some stunning vistas up toward Tumalo or out toward Sisters that only gravel bikers will witness. Check in with one of the local bike shops—Sunnyside Sports, Pine Mountain Sports or Crow’s Feet Commons.

If you have small kids, for whom the world is a wonder a day, definitely take them to the High Desert Museum south of Bend. There, they can be themselves in the company SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 101

EAT Newport Avenue Market newportavenuemarket. com

Photos: Megan Morse

BEND, OREGON

trip planner

Worthy Taps & Tacos worthytapstacos.com Wild Rose wildrosethai.com Zydeco Kitchen + Cocktails zydeco kitchen.com

FROM TOP Crater Lake Spirits tasting room offers mini cocktails. Worthy Taps & Tacos adds Oaxacan flavor to Bend.

Rainshadow Organics rainshadoworganics.com Joolz joolzbend.com La Magie lamagiecafe.com

STAY Oxford Hotel oxfordhotelbend.com Best Western Premier Peppertree Inn at Bend bestwesternpremierbend. com Springhill Suites marriott.com

PLAY BendFilm bendfilm.org Oktoberfest bendoktoberfest.com Crow’s Feet Commons crowsfeetcommons.com Crater Lake Spirits craterlakespirits.com High Desert Museum highdesertmuseum.org

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of wild beasts, such as raptors, lynx, otters and eagles. A new exhibit called High Desert Dreams—The Lost Homesteads of the Fort Rock Basin, is a stunning black-and-white photography portfolio not to miss.

Grab a bite at Primal Cuts on Galveston Avenue, where you’ll find choice cuts of locally raised meats in tasty variations from charcuterie boards to tortas with housemade carnitas. Or go al fresco on the back deck of the small neighborhood tavern, Brother Jon’s across the street. A little farther east on Galveston is Sunriver Brewing, a nice atmosphere with good beer and food. Options abound on Galveston.

If you’re in town during BendFilm, the theaters are still hopping with film shorts and features. If you time your visit for September 21-22, you will stumble into Bend’s Oktoberfest, a booming festival that shuts streets down to cars and opens them to music stages, the Bend Beer Choir, wiener dog races, food carts and, of course, local craft brews.

If Oktoberfest isn’t happening, try the Crater Lake Spirits tasting room on Bond Street. This small-batch distiller has won awards for its gins and vodkas made in its distillery in Tumalo, just SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

outside Bend. Or pop over to the Old Mill for Walla Walla-made wine at Va Piano Vineyards tasting room. While you’re in the Old Mill District, remember the things you don’t have at home and stop for rare spices from around the world and, of course, REI for your next camping or skiing odyssey.

Joolz, with its Mediterranean-infused menu, is a good place to end the night. Chef Ramsey Hamdan brings his Beirut childhood to plates in Bend. Share small plates of hummus, baba ghanouj, kibbe and lamb kebabs. Try the Beirut cocktail, a whiskey and lemon concoction that sets everything right.

Try like hell to save room for Bonta gelato, just a stroll down the street. Flavors from India and Zanzibar permeate the shop and are incorporated into some of the dozenplus flavors.

If you’ve targeted the BendFilm weekend, be sure to finish strong with a Sunday show that transports you to another world before reentering your own—remembering the words of Robin Williams from Dead Poets Society, “Carpe Diem. Seize the day, boys. Make your lives extraordinary.”

Open September 21 through January 20 NEW EXHIBIT

59800 South Highway 97 | Bend, Oregon 97702 541-382-4754 | highdesertmuseum.org

Smithsonian Affiliate

This exhibition has been organized by the Christopher Cardozo Collection and is circulated through GuestCurator Traveling Exhibitions.

This exhibition has been funded in part by the Oregon Heritage Commission, Oregon Parks and Recreation Department.

Mother and Child

An adventure center in downtown Bend featuring the finest collection of beer, an awesome patio, and a full-service specialty ski and bike shop 875 NW Brooks St. on Mirror Pond 541-728-0066 | crowsfeetcommons.com

t Frost rt er be ob Ro fference” —R di e th l al de ma d that has less traveled, an “I took the road

northwest destination

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Sonoma City Hall sits at the center of the historic plaza. Benziger Family Winery practices biodynamic farming. Sonoma’s mission sits at the edge of the plaza. The California Cheese Trail has many stops in the area. The Francis Ford Coppola Winery has movie memorabilia.

A Phoenix From the Ashes Sonoma County won’t let a fire stop its spirit written by Sheila G. Miller A YEAR AGO, Sonoma County and surrounding areas were crippled by a massive wildfire. Rolling hills were blackened, vineyards were damaged, and homes destroyed, but the fires did nothing to dampen the area’s spirit.

Indeed, nearly every street-facing surface in the area still features stickers that say #SonomaStrong or handmade signs thanking firefighters for their help in saving residents’ homes.

There’s no better way to support this community as it gets back on its feet than by spending some tourism dollars in the region.

I was happy to oblige.

Glen Ellen was particularly hard-hit by the fires. But the Jack London Lodge in Glen Ellen, where I stayed on a recent weekend, was spared. This renovated motel, tucked into a lush hillside, has charm, free breakfast, and one heck of a bar.

Right up the hill from the lodge sits Benziger Family Winery, which is a great spot to learn more about how wine is made.

The winery, which practices biodynamic and green farming, offers tram tours through the vineyards, into the winery and even a peek at the wine cave, all while tasting glasses of its wide variety of wines.

Keep traveling up London Ranch Road and you’ll find Jack London State Historic Park. This is the author’s Beauty Ranch.

He bought much of the acreage in 1905 with a dream of innovating agriculture, including with his pig palace, a circular pig pen he designed. The remains of the ranch, including ruins of the Wolf House and the winery, are compelling. They’re also the site of Broadway Under the Stars, a concert series that combines music, picnicking and wine.

To get a true historic sense of Sonoma, swing through Sonoma Plaza, a national historic landmark that has the last Spanish mission, built by Franciscan priests in 1824 and established under a Mexican government that had recently gained independence from Spain. The historic adobe structures are open to the public.

The plaza features a lot more than just history—it’s also chock full of top restaurants and shopping. Sit on the back patio of the girl & the fig for a croque monsieur or swing by El Dorado Kitchen for a weekend brunch—brioche french toast, anyone? Then finish the tour at one of more than two dozen wine tasting rooms on the plaza, including Hawkes Winery, which has a bright patio for good people watching and some killer cabernet sauvignon.

If you’re not a huge wine person, never fear—Sonoma and its surrounds have plenty of other activities to recommend. Heck, even the wineries have non-alcoholic options. For example, Francis Ford Coppola Winery in Geyserville has a movie gallery 104 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

stuffed with memorabilia like Academy Awards and set pieces from The Godfather. It also has two beautiful swimming pools to escape the late summer heat.

Know that if you’d prefer beer or cider (or even a cocktail), there are options aplenty—Lagunitas is based in Petaluma, and Russian River Brewing, of Pliny the Elder fame, has its brew pub in Santa Rosa. Lesser-known breweries also dot the region and offer tastings and tours, just like their famous winery friends.

Maybe cheese is your thing? The California Cheese Trail features forty-four cheesemakers from all over the state, but nine of them are in the Sonoma area, and they’re filled with delicious ways to indulge.

With its fine wine and estates built into the rolling hills, Sonoma County can seem like a moneyed place for the urban visitor. But remember, there are dozens of farms growing all

SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA

northwest destination

EAT the girl & the fig thegirlandthefig.com El Dorado Kitchen eldoradosonoma.com Sonoma Market sonomamarket.net Spinster Sisters thespinstersisters.com

STAY Jack London Lodge jacklondonlodge.com Astro Motel theastro.com AutoCamp Russian River autocamp.com MacArthur Place Hotel & Spa macarthurplace.com

PLAY The Barlow thebarlow.net The Cheese Trail cheesetrail.org BR Cohn brcohn.com Benziger Family Winery benziger.com Jack London State Historic Park jacklondonpark.com

kinds of crops and livestock hidden around the area. As a result, the farmers markets are divine, with offerings from local honey and fresh produce to artisan foods and handmade crafts. You can also find plenty of homegrown flavor at Sonoma Market, the locals’ grocery store, including some of the best Caesar salad dressing in history.

A local friend and I headed one afternoon to B.R. Cohn, an understated winery in the hills of Glen Ellen. There, we had a wine and food pairing, then bought oysters from a man who brings his catch each day from Tomales Bay. We were similarly tempted by the winery’s excellent olive oils, which were the first produced in California in a century when B.R. Cohn started making them in 1990.

While B.R. Cohn is a great stop, it’s impossible to estimate just how many wineries are tucked around each corner. A good

rule is to never go to more than four or five in a day (and four is a lot), and to remember that most of the fun is exploring a new setting and taking the time to enjoy the wine. Plus, really, there’s little bad wine to be tasted. On my list to check out this visit was The Donum Estate, which focuses on pinot noir and has an outdoor sculpture gallery throughout its 200-acre estate.

This is not someone’s grandma’s art—this is Ai Weiwei, Keith Haring and Anselm Kiefer-level art.

For a more hipster experience, Scribe is a reservations-only spot started in 2007. The wine is great, the vibe is very cool, and the last time I was there I sat in a giant tree swing. Or try Three Sticks Wines, another reservation-only spot but this one right in downtown Sonoma. Located in the Vallejo-Casteñada Adobe, the winery offers tastings and food pairings and is a tremendous example of historic preservation. Bonus: the wines are delicious.

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EXPLORE OREGON

eat + stay + play

ARBORBROOK VINEYARDS ArborBrook Vineyards is a boutique producer of exceptional handcrafted wines. Family-owned and operated, it is located in the heart of Oregon wine country in the Chehalem Mountain AVA. Visit the tasting room for a relaxing and casual wine tasting experience. Weekdays, 11– 4:30.

Weekends, 11–5.

503.538.0959 17770 NE Calkins Ln. NEWBERG arborbrookwines.com

A Christmas Experience! Christmas Treasures brings you the most treasured ornaments and items for gift giving and collecting. Start a new family tradition.

Come experience the Old World charm, and see our unique products not only during the holiday season but all through the year. A family business for 24 years.

Featuring: Jim Shore, Dept. 56, Possible Dreams, German Nutcrackers and Smokers, Nativities, Charming Tails, Michel Design Works and so much more. Located on Highway 126, 40 miles east of Eugene.

800.820.8189 52959 McKenzie Hwy. BLUE RIVER christmas-treasures.com

THUMP COFFEE

BALCH HOTEL

At Thump, every coffee has a unique story. Through years of perfecting and simplifying the process, Thump is able to honor the journey, the complexities and the people that are inseparable from every coffee it roasts. Located in the heart of downtown Bend, Thump serves coffee with enthusiastic customer service and the utmost integrity. Don’t just drink coffee— experience it.

Recently named #1 Fan-Favorite Travel Destination in the Columbia River Gorge, and #7 in Oregon! With 300 days of sunshine, the Balch’s on-site dining, spa services, sunny patio, garden grounds and majestic Mt. Hood views inspire getaways for rejuvenation and reconnection. The vintage elegance of this historic country inn, surrounded by the golden expanse of wide open meadows and big sky, produces clarity of mind and heart that settles the soul.

541.388.0226 25 NW Minnesota Ave. BEND thumpcoffee.com

541.467.2277 40 S. Heimrich St. DUFUR balchhotel.com

BRIDGEWATER BISTRO

HISTORIC HOTEL PRAIRIE

Ann and Tony Kischner’s Bridgewater Bistro is a full-service restaurant in Astoria on the banks of the Columbia River, just below the majestic Astoria-Megler Bridge to Washington. The restaurant is open seven days a week, serving lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch, and diners can catch live local music Wednesday through Sunday. The bistro serves a diverse and affordable menu of small plates, soups, salads and main courses that focus on regional products, and menus are 90 percent available gluten-free. Breads and desserts are baked in house. Order from the full bar and award-winning wine list, specializing in regional vineyards.

Located at the base of the Strawberry Mountain Wilderness Area, Hotel Prairie is the prime location for recreational activities. Plan for several nights so you can hike, fish, kayak and bike! Then during your downtime, you can relax in the hotel lobby, backyard patio or our wine/beer lounge. Scenery and history abound as you travel to and from Prairie City as we are on the Old West Scenic Bikeway and Journey Through Time Byway. We’ll guide you to the best sights and museums around.

Hotel Prairie is just steps away from restaurants and shops. You can even charge your EV or Tesla at our charging stations while here. Come. Stay.

503.325.6777 20 Basin St. ASTORIA bridgewaterbistro.com

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CHRISTMAS TREASURES

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

541.820.4800 112 Front St. PRAIRIE CITY hotelprairie.com

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1859 MAPPED

The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1859.

Astoria Seaside

Milton-Freewater Hood River Portland Tillamook Gresham

Pendleton

The Dalles La Grande

Maupin Government Camp

Pacific City Lincoln City

Baker City

Salem Newport

Madras

Albany Corvallis

Prineville

John Day

Redmond

Sisters Florence

Joseph

Ontario

Bend

Eugene Springfield

Sunriver Burns

Oakridge Coos Bay Bandon

Roseburg

Grants Pass Brookings

Jacksonville

Paisley

Medford Ashland

Klamath Falls

Lakeview

Live

Think

Explore

22 Lincoln City Fall Kite Festival

60 ViewPlus

90

Queen of Angels Monastery

26 Portland Baroque Orchestra

62 Hayward Field

92

Smith Rock State Park

32 Wild About Game

64 He Sells These Shells

96

Minam River Lodge

36 Blue Heron Farm

66 Baseballism

98

Bend

54 Artback Murals

68 Outside In

104 Sonoma Plaza

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SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

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Until Next Time

Home Is Where Oregon Is written by Maiah Miller

THE LOVE I FEEL for Oregon grows in my life much like the native pine tree. I have a delicate version inked on my wrist as a constant reminder of the Pacific Northwest, and each flash of the boughs peeking from my sleeve reminds me of home.

As a military spouse, I move often, seemingly farther away from my birthplace of Eugene with each duty station. I carry this love for my home state like a security blanket. It is something I can reach for and cling to in times of homesickness. Oregon invades my thoughts when daydreaming, like the fog along the coast. I find ways to weave my love of the state into my life, even when I’m physically far from the valley I grew up in.

When I first left the state to move with my twin to Texas, we followed the only car with Oregon license plates we had seen in the vast state and eagerly accosted them when they parked, excitedly asking them where they were from. After much confusion, we realized they were driving a rental car and had no idea their license plates were Oregon plates.

When my husband deployed for the second time to Afghanistan, going home was my lifesaver. I loaded up my car with running shoes and our newly adopted puppy and drove sixteen hours straight to Eugene. Eugene was my refuge for those long months of separation, and it was only the safe return of my Marine that made me travel back to San Diego.

Our next duty station was Monterey, and this time the drive to Oregon was shorter. In nine hours I could be home, running the Amazon trail, sipping coffee with my mother at Noisette bakery, dancing at Ballet Fantastique or simply roaming the aisles of Market of Choice. Eugene made my heart beat faster. The cleaner air, the greener trees and abundant organic and healthier food invigorated me.

Even having twins didn’t slow me down. Becoming a new mother released a maternal longing for my native home, so I counted down the days until I could bring my new family to Oregon. After my girls were born (while

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my husband was on assignment), I convinced my friend in Portland to fly down and drive me back with my tiny infants. The twins made their first trip to Oregon at six months, with a joyful whoop from me when crossing the state line (instantly regretted when I remembered the little babies sleeping in the backseat). Even if they wouldn’t remember their first Oregon trip, I wanted my girls to be immersed in the love I have for Oregon.

When my husband was finally on leave and able to travel with us, I delighted in navigating my favorite trails and coffee shops as a family. It was a wonderful experience to introduce him to “all things Oregon”, and show him the beauty of my state.

Now I am almost the farthest away I could be while still remaining in the U.S., and I have to bite my tongue to keep from critically comparing everything to my beloved Oregon. (It’s not this humid in Oregon! We have scenic running trails in Oregon. In Oregon you can actually find vegan restaurants. Oregon doesn’t have these terrible spider-cricket hybrids. And so on.)

When I force myself to stay in the present, I appreciate my current community. I’m meeting new friends and exploring the state we temporarily call home. But the pine tree on my wrist reminds me of where my heart is and I find myself dreaming of the day we load up the car and head west to Oregon—this time for good.

We’ve been proudly protecting our furry friends and finding them loving homes since 1868.

Thank you for helping us help them.

Creative Services Donated by Leopold Ketel

oregonhumane.org

STUNNING AND LUXURIOUS BY DESIGN

Oregon’s Magazine

RANGE ROVER VELAR

TRIP PLANNER: BEND PG. 98

Portland’s Bridge Tenders

Tiny Bathroom Makeovers

The Oregon Kiwitini

September | October 2018 HOME + DESIGN

Beyond the legendary capabilities that come with 70 years of Land Rover heritage, the new Range Rover Velar has been named 2018 World Car Design of the Year at the World Car Awards.

LIFE ON THE FRONT OF

Combining avant-garde design with time honored engineering excellence, the new Range Rover Velar is the latest iteration of the Official Vehicle of the Northwest Experience.

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Visit Land Rover Portland to experience the all new Range Rover Velar.

1859magazine.com

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1859oregonmagazine.com $5.95 display until October 31, 2018

LIVE

THINK

EXPLORE

OREGON

September | October

volume 53