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YOUR NEXT FAVORITE PLACE. Wood River Valley
Find out how to stay and play. Visit valleychamber.org
Start planning. Keep exploring. Never stop dreaming. Camping, Dining, Fishing, Hiking, Music, Festivals, Mountain Biking and Much More.
Cowboy Culture in the City photography by Aubrey Janelle 8 Seconds Rodeo returned to Portland for a fourth year this June. Founded by Portland photojournalist Ivan McClellan, the event celebrates the legacy of Black cowboys and cowgirls in a high-energy annual showcase. (pg. 52)
2 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2026
AT FAR LEFT A cowboy competes in the bull riding event at 8 Seconds Rodeo in Portland in June. BELOW Tiffany Guess, commentator for the 8 Seconds Rodeo, poses for a portrait in the Veterans Memorial Coliseum.
Oregon is home to eighteen official Scenic Bikeways, including the Madras Mountain Views Scenic Bikeway in Central Oregon.
FEATURES SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2026 • volume 100
38 Love in the Pacific Northwest From wine and wellness to saunas and forest bathing, Oregon has many options for out-of-the-way romantic retreats. written by Jean Chen Smith
52 8 Seconds Rodeo This event came to Portland to celebrate “culture, community and Black excellence.” Photographer Aubrey Janelle captured every second. written and photographed by Aubrey Janelle
44 Twenty-Six Reasons We Love Oregon Right Now
Russ Roca/Travel Oregon
Longtime 1859 writer Kerry Newberry assembles some of the best slices of Oregon culture that will make you want to swoon all o’er again.
4
written by Kerry Newberry
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2026
Ev er y R i ve r LEADS
OREGON’S
WILD RIVERS COAST POWERED BY NATURE
SOMEWHERE
WILD
OREGONSWILDRIVERSCOAST.COM Endless Adventure Awaits
Langlois, Port Orford, Agness, Gold Beach, Brookings-Harbor
DEPARTMENTS Daniel Robinson, courtesy of Froelick Gallery
SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2026 • volume 100
LIVE + THINK 14 NOTEBOOK
Oregon Coast Jazz Party at Nye Beach; Pendleton’s new Interwoven festival; Portland Book Festival.
18 FOOD + DRINK
Long live beer!; foraging adventures; Anna’s Table.
20 FARM TO TABLE
Newport’s Chelsea Rose Seafood and buttery black cod.
26 HOME + DESIGN
A revived Colonial Revival in Portland.
32 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE
Daniel Robinson finds beauty in the rough.
32
34 MY WORKSPACE Carter Hiyama/Lucky Duck
Kelli Rad/Gather Sauna House
Legendary photographer Mike Maple.
EXPLORE 62 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT Thor’s Well, Yachats.
64 ADVENTURE
Hot-and-cold experiences are making a splash.
66 LODGING
Lucky Duck, Carlton.
68 TRIP PLANNER
Roseburg and the Umpqua Valley.
76 NW DESTINATION
Long Beach, Washington.
64
66 10 Editor’s Letter 11 1859 Online 78 Map of Oregon 80 Until Next Time
COVER
photo by Peter Mahar Latourell Falls (see “Love in the Pacific Northwest,” pg. 38)
6
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2026
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CONTRIBUTORS
PETER MAHAR Photographer Cover “I love telling people’s stories. Whatever it might be, if you want it told honestly, I want to capture it for you. I have spent the last fifteen years honing my skills for getting people comfortable in front of the camera, so they’re free to be themselves.” Peter Mahar is a portrait and branding photographer based out of Portland since 2011. He loves spending time with his wife and six kids; they are his favorite thing to photograph.
KERRY NEWBERRY Writer Twenty-Six Reasons We Love Oregon Right Now “I could easily come up with 100 reasons to love Oregon right now—but we narrowed it down to twenty-six. Consider it a snapshot of the amazing things happening here, from wildlife preservation and regenerative agriculture to a vibrant creative scene dreaming up cool art and events, including Pendleton’s new fashion festival. We have fisher poets, truffle dogs, a coastal art trail, world-winning cheese and goat yoga. Oregon gives us so much to love.” (pg. 44) Kerry Newberry is a freelance travel and lifestyle writer and co-author of the Oregon Wine + Food Cookbook. She’s based in Portland but frequently found exploring her favorite places in the state, which are often populated by stacks of books and friendly dogs.
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JONI KABANA Writer My Workspace
AMANDA LOMAN Photographer Farm to Table
“Imagine finding a book on a shelf so beautiful and intriguing that you are compelled to open it without hesitation to see what might be inside. That is how I felt when I first discovered Mike Maple’s work. After viewing a couple of his photographs, it didn’t take long to realize a treasure was here among us in Oregon. His work encompasses an exquisite photojournalistic style, spanning many decades and various genres. But it is his portraiture that stands among the work of master photographers. From snake handlers to Ronald Reagan, his highly humanistic approach leaves viewers in awe from the nuances he sees and captures with his camera.” (pg. 34)
“A visit to a floating fish market to see the catch of the day feels like an essential part of a trip to the coast, but the real delight of this assignment was getting to visit Cari’s family fishing boat, the Monde Uni, where her husband, son and family dog were hard at work preparing for their next journey out to sea. It was an important glimpse into the multigenerational legacy of the family’s business.” (pg. 20)
When not working on programming and restoration of the Spray General Store, you can find Joni Kabana out on backroads digging up stories and visuals of small-town rural America.
Amanda Loman is an editorial photographer based in Portland. A native of New York state, she’s been lucky enough to explore in Oregon for the past decade.
EDITOR
Kevin Max
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Allison Bye
WEB MANAGER
Aaron Opsahl
SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER
Joni Kabana
OFFICE MANAGER
Cindy Miskowiec
DIRECTOR OF SALES
Jenny Kamprath
ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE
Terresa Clark
HOMEGROWN CHEF
Thor Erickson
BEERLANDIA COLUMNIST
Jeremy Storton
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Cathy Carroll, Jean Chen Smith, Melissa Dalton, Joni Kabana, Julie Lee, Kerry Newberry, Daniel O’Neil, Ben Salmon, James Sinks
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Christopher Dibble, Aubrey Janelle, Tambi Lane, Amanda Loman, Peter Mahar, Petar Marshall
Headquarters
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SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2026
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 9
FROM THE
EDITOR
THERE ARE innumerable reasons to love Oregon right now, but we’re offering our top twentysix. Kerry Newberry, one of our longtime writers, brings her A game, as she always does, and with it a creative and intriguing voice—the Oregon Coast as a 363-mile art gallery, truffle hunting with dogs, Portland recast as America’s best pizza town and acknowledging Oregon as the Dungeness crab capital of the world. Turn to page 44 to get (re)stoked. Another longtime 1859 writer and adventurer Jean Chen Smith divines Oregon’s most unforgettable romantic escapes. She takes us to some lesser-known venues in the vines, to a new Nordic sauna culture in the Columbia Gorge and down to Jacksonville, where it is a postcard of romanticism. Read more on page 38. Anyone who has followed 1859 even just a short time knows that our Homegrown Chef Thor Erickson has lived a life of stories. But telling them is a different talent. None of his stories is better than his reminiscence of grinding meat to make sausage at age 6 while one of his three sisters did the white-collar work of stuffing the sausage. In this story, sausage is “one of humanity’s greatest culinary achievements,” and we watch it being made. The recipe for Thorsage is one you’ll want to rip free and keep for the
10 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2026
holidays and beyond. Turn to page 24 to see the sausage being made. To me, food is romance. It comes mostly from the effort, the romance. Better if you can create something tasty in the process but entirely an overachievement for baseline romance. One way to do both is with black cod. This fish is so good that it needs only heat and a few ingredients before your guest considers you a culinary genius. In Farm to Table on page 20, we tell the story of Chelsea Rose Seafood, a sustainable fishing business from the Newport fleet. Their specialty is line-caught black cod. Read about this family, and then jump to the recipes with black cod for your next romantic coup. Speaking of Thor, our Travel Spotlight (pg. 62) is Thor’s Well. Just south of Yachats on the coast, Thor’s Well is a spectacular monstrosity of fluid dynamics. Known as the “drainpipe of the Pacific,” Thor’s Well, at high tide, is a feast for the eyes as waves crash over and into the massive stone sink, creating multitudes of waterfalls as it does and shooting water up through water spouts like fireworks. Time your visit for when a storm is blowing in and make a romantic weekend out of it on the southern Oregon Coast. Double down, and hit the Oregon Coast Jazz Party at Nye Beach on October 2 through 4. (pg. 14)
1859 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Oregon content www.1859oregonmagazine.com | #1859oregon | @1859oregon
HAVE A PHOTO THAT SHOWS OFF YOUR OREGON EXPERIENCE? Share it with us by filling out the Oregon Postcard form on our website. If chosen, you’ll be published here. www.1859oregon magazine.com/postcard photo by Masamichi Kishiku Autumn leaves in Southern Oregon.
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SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2026
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Amanda Loman
NOTEBOOK 14 FOOD + DRINK 18 FARM TO TABLE 20 HOME + DESIGN 26 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 32 MY WORKSPACE 34
pg. 20 The Chelsea Rose out of Newport brings black cod to the tables of eagerly awaiting diners.
The Dalles, OR FIND YOUR WIDE OPEN
5 4 1- 2 9 6 - 2 2 3 1 - e x p l o r e t h e d a l l e s . c o m
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Tidbits + To-dos
Ryan Heck/Luxefly Base Camp
Interwoven
written by Cathy Carroll
ca mark le yo nd ur ar
Luxefly Base Camp Eugene-based chef and restaurateur Sara Willis, an avid hiker, camper and backpacker, offers restaurant-quality dishes designed for the outdoors with easy, lightweight Luxefly Base Camp meals. Add hot water to the pouch to prepare options such as risotto with organic asparagus, cremini mushrooms, butter, Willamette Valley white wine and Parmesan or duck confit and white bean cassoulet with Hungarian sausage and bacon. The meat is sourced from longtime local purveyors. www.luxeflybasecamp.com
camark y len our da r Oregon Coast Jazz Party
Introducing Interwoven, a three-day mashup of fashion, design, food, art and culture celebrating Indigenous and Western makers that will be held in Pendleton on October 15 through 17. Explore a market with seventy makers of textiles, jewelry, pottery and one-of-a-kind works. Catch runway shows—including a fashion show on horseback. Workshops, demonstrations, food experiences, panels and pop-ups spanning community and historic sites around town create a dialogue between heritage and contemporary creativity. www.interwovenoregon.com
14 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2026
John Abbott, courtesy of John Clayton
Interwoven: Where Cultures Meet
Experience three days of world-class jazz at the annual Oregon Coast Jazz Party on October 2 through 4 at Nye Beach in Newport. Grammy Awardwinning jazz legend and Interim Artistic Director John Clayton (pictured at left) curated a lineup that includes Taylor Eigsti, Holly Hofmann, Camille Thurman and other acclaimed musicians. The festival at the Newport Performing Arts Center celebrates the legacy of former longtime Artistic Director Ken Peplowski, who died in February. www.coastarts.org/ oregon-coast-jazz-party
notebook ur R yo rk DA a m EN
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Portland Book Festival After selling out in 2025, the Portland Book Festival returns November 2 through 8 and is expanding, inviting audiences to experience stories through literature, music, food, visual art and community. Presented by Literary Arts, the festival’s largest gathering takes place November 7, when more than 100 local, regional and nationally acclaimed authors converge in the South Park Blocks. New events throughout the week include performances by the Philip Glass Ensemble, Oregon Symphony and 45th Parallel String Quartet. Readings, workshops, food events and cocktails happen at the Novel Book Bar inside Literary Arts headquarters. Featured authors include Renée Watson, Willy Vlautin, Patrick deWitt and Anthony Hudson (who also performs as Carla Rossi), plus Carson Ellis and Colin Meloy, whose novel Wildwood is also a new Laika animated film opening in theaters October 23.
Renée Watson
Anthony Hudson (aka Carla Rossi)
www.pdxbookfest.org
CAmark y LEN our DA R Mushroom Festival
Mount Pisgah Arboretum
Literary Arts
CA
Explore fascinating fungi at this beloved fall tradition at Mount Pisgah Arboretum on October 25. Discover hundreds of local mushroom species, learn from experts about edible and poisonous varieties, join guided nature walks and browse mushroom vendors, local food, arts and crafts. In addition to fungi, you’ll also find live music, cider pressing, a scarecrow contest and hayrides. www.mountpisgaharboretum. org/festivals-events/ mushroom-festival
SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2026
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
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Musician
A New Creative Voice Andrew Lion opens a new door to jazz in Bend written by Ben Salmon
AS WAS THE CASE for a lot of bands, the momentum of the Oakland, California, indie-jazz ensemble Negative Press Project was significantly stunted by the COVID-19 pandemic. Concerts came to a halt. In-person collaboration was suddenly much more challenging. And most impactful of all, many of the group’s members left the Bay Area, relocating to far-flung places like Finland, New York City, Los Angeles and Bend. Yes, Bend—as in Bend, Oregon. That’s where bassist Andrew Lion landed a few years ago, unsure of what the future held for Negative Press Project. “We were beginning to explore whether we should go in another direction with the project, and we ended up choosing the more classically informed direction,” Lion said. “So that left this other idea out there for consideration.” That idea? A more “jazz-adjacent” direction, to use Lion’s words—one that he instead decided to pursue on his first fulllength release as a solo artist, līder|lāder, slated for release in late 2026. Featuring eight vibrant tracks brought to life by an impressive roster of powerhouse players, the album might be filed in the “jazz” section of most record stores, but it also incorporates progressive rock, shifting rhythms, spacey psych jams, incandescent electric guitars, electronic elements and more into an exploratory post-jazz sound. 16
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2026
The ambitious feel of līder|lāder is not terribly surprising given Lion’s background. Sure, he studied at the California Jazz Conservatory in Berkeley, but before that he played in (and was influenced by) a variety of wide-ranging sounds, including altrock bands, singer-songwriter-driven projects, big pop productions and more. All of that bleeds into his solo work. “(Jazz) is such a rich wealth of information. It informs the music from a harmonic standpoint and a rhythmic standpoint, and I like to remain connected to it,” Lion said. “I can keep one foot in that camp while the rest of this is more of an authentic expression of who I am.” To succinctly capture the sum of his musical pursuits, Lion uses another interesting phrase almost like a genre name: Creative Music. It’s his way of delineating the difference between the welltrodden sounds of classic jazz and his own omnivorous fusion. “If somebody says the word ‘jazz’ today, people are going to have their own idea of what that means. There’s a tradition to it. And certainly, I appreciate the history of it. But I didn’t grow up with the same social circumstances and the same environment and the same repertoire that informed classic jazz,” Lion said. “So when I say ‘creative music,’ I’m talking about improvisation and post-bop, Wayne Shorter and Herbie Hancock,” he continued. “They moved the music forward (into a place) where the lines start blurring.”
Eric Hansen Photography
Andrew Lion relocated to Bend after COVID and began recording his eclectic brand of “jazz-adjacent” music. This work comprises an album out this year.
notebook
Audiophile
Voices of Resilience Stroke survivors share stories that heal and inspire CORVALLIS NATIVE Molly Buccola was a 21-year-old marathon runner and college senior in California when she suffered a stroke. With support from her family, she relearned how to walk, bathe, eat and live independently. During the pandemic, she returned home to Bend and turned her work toward fellow stroke survivors, guiding them through reflective story-crafting journeys, a process of seven to twelve weeks each. That work in 2023 grew into the Beyond Stillness podcast of more than 100 survivor stories reaching every state and more than 100 countries. These accounts of resilience and insight into what truly matters are edifying for anyone—stroke survivor or not— and are available at www.beyondstillness.org/listen-here. In 2024, Buccola founded the nonprofit Beyond Stillness: Stories After Stroke, offering survivors paths to identity, purpose and connection through storytelling, gatherings, retreats and workshops, providing deeper emotional support beyond traditional hospital care. What inspired your story-crafting approach to helping stroke survivors? Post-stroke, I joined Woodside Priory School in the Bay Area, run by Benedictine monks who live in a monastery on campus. The students, grades six through twelve, are from all over the world with a variety of religious and spiritual traditions, and the monks are all about creating space for everybody. In monastic life, the focus is on community—they live and work with the same people for the rest of their lives— and like anyone, they all have their strengths, weaknesses, passions and downfalls. Everyone must figure out how to work with each other, but also how to lift the community as a whole. The monks and I worked with the students, faculty, staff and parents, creating retreats and reflective experiences for each group while honoring the important role each played in the community. Every week, the whole school would meet for a chapel service, and as director of campus ministry, I would meet with a selected speaker,
Photos: Beyond Stillness
interview by Cathy Carroll
AT LEFT Molly Buccola is the founder of Beyond Stillness: Stories After Stroke, a nonprofit that has a popular podcast and empowers stroke survivors through storytelling and community. ABOVE Beyond Stillness storytellers volunteer at the Fight Stroke Walk in Santa Clara, California, in May, sharing their intentionally crafted stories via QR code posters.
This is a group that is listening deeply, be it a sixth-grader or the head of the is speaking about real human things, school, for reflective sessions to help taking time to check in with each other them craft their story to deliver to the over texts. When forced to be still, whole community—students, faculty priorities and perspectives shifted. So, I and staff. started reaching out to supI realized that just as in MARK YOUR CALENDAR port groups around the state the Benedictine community, Attend Beyond asking, ‘Does anyone want to all of us stroke survivors Stillness Live, featuring craft their story?’ have something to offer—a thoughtfully crafted, seven-minute personal purpose within that commustories of wisdom, What are some impacts nity where we can share our purpose, connection and hope told live by stroke of completing the reflective unique wisdom. survivors. The event will story-crafting process? be held October 1 at McMenamins Kennedy Many have resumed therapy How did the podcast come School Theater after years without treatabout? in Portland. ment, rebuilt vital relationI started volunteering as a ships with doctors, nurses, therapists, stroke support group facilitator and was in awe listening to the way they family members and friends, joined shared these important reflections support groups to continue their on life that I wish everyone could healing journey while inspiring others, hear—things I wished I’d heard durlaunched their own support groups to ing my recovery—such as, ‘Now I get guide others through similar experito spend more time with my kids,’ ences, begun volunteering in their or ‘Now I listen more deeply.’ I don’t communities, extending their healing outward and continued sharing their think everyone needs a stroke to think stories at survivor events and local about that stuff, and I found that this community gatherings. is a group that I want to be around.
SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2026
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
17
Bigstock
food + drink
Beerlandia
Falling in Love Again … With Beer written by Jeremy Storton MY FIRST Oregon beer was at Deschutes Brewery in the mid 1990s. A lot has happened since then. We’ve loved, lost, lived and loved again. Oregon was a cool state with microbreweries that built a global craft beer powerhouse … but times have changed. The beer industry is no longer on a steep upward trajectory, and we lost a few great breweries along the way. So how do we regain the love for our beer we once had? I remember hearing someone say once that love is a verb, not a noun. It was at a wedding, and the speaker offered a gentle warning to the newlyweds to prepare them for the hard times that would inevitably come. But he also offered a hopeful reminder to those at the reception that we have a choice amid hard times. When passion fades, and the logistics of life challenge the love between a couple, choosing each other every single day becomes an intentional act, not a circumstance of fate. Ironically, I thought about this while having a beer at a local brewery. The challenge is real, but we haven’t lost anything, not really. Things have just changed. Some of the small breweries are now big. Some are gone forever. Change isn’t bad; it’s just change. The beer that made Oregon great is still great—better even. Like a young relationship where love just happened, but has matured into something more meaningful, it now requires action and choice to maintain it. I’m grateful to have lived in Oregon through the rise of craft beer. I’m grateful that the beer is still some of the best in the world. Let the changes come. I still choose Oregon beer. This is more than an affair; this is a deep, mature, forever kind of love.
Change isn’t bad; it’s just change. The beer that made Oregon great is still great— better even.
Photo: Tu Tu’ Tun Lodge
Cocktail Card
18
• 3 dashes Peychaud’s bitters • Ginger ale, to top • Nasturtium leaves and flowers, for garnish
recipe courtesy of Tu Tu’ Tun Lodge / GOLD BEACH
• 1½ ounces vodka • 1 ounce dry vermouth • ½ ounce pear liqueur (or Chartreuse for a more intriguing twist)
Sparrow Long Martini
Fill a tall glass with ice. Add the vodka, dry vermouth, pear liqueur and bitters. Top with ginger ale, and gently stir. Garnish with nasturtium leaves and flowers.
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2026
food + drink
BEST PLACES FOR
FORAGING ADVENTURES FOR FALL WILDCRAFT STUDIO SCHOOL
PORTLAND + COAST RANGE www.wildcraftstudioschool.com
KELLY’S BRIGHTON MARINA Skip the seafood counter and catch dinner yourself. At this old-school coastal marina, you can rent a boat, crab from the dock or dig for clams across the bay—then have your haul cooked on-site. Make a weekend of it with a stay at the family-run marina’s waterfront tent sites. 29200 US-101 ROCKAWAY BEACH www.kellysbrightonmarina.com
WILD FOOD ADVENTURES Go foraging with Pacific Northwest legend John Kallas, who’s been teaching people to eat from the wild since 1970. His guided courses range from wild fruits and sea vegetables to excursions through Sauvie Island, Oxbow’s old-growth forest and the Oregon Coast. Upcoming workshops include wild fruits of the Pacific Northwest. PORTLAND + OREGON COAST www.wildfoodadventures.com
Photos: Anna’s Table
Get to know Oregon’s fall fungi—chanterelles, lobsters, hedgehogs or matsutake—on guided forays through the Coast Range and Columbia River Gorge. Learn to identify, harvest and cook wild fungi sustainably, while picking up the forest-reading skills that can turn a walk in the woods into dinner. Later in the season, try your hand at bigleaf maple sugaring.
Dining
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP A signature “Beachcomber Stew” at Anna’s Table in Cannon Beach. A Chinook salmon dish. Anna’s Table puts as much art into its interior as it does its menu.
Anna’s Table written by Kerry Newberry CLAM CHOWDER and crispy fish and chips are easy to love on the Oregon Coast. But some nights, you want to dress it up a little—think seared Chinook salmon with herby hasselback potatoes, or a beachcomber stew brimming with salmon, whitefish, prawns and manila clams, made for mopping up with slices of house-made focaccia from a century-old sourdough starter. Welcome to chef John Nelson’s stylish little corner of Cannon Beach, where the Scandinavian roots run deep: blond wood, white wainscoting, moody maritime art and nostalgic photos that trace his family’s life on the water (his father was a commercial fisher, and his mother ran a dockside clam chowder shack). Along the way, Nelson has cooked his way through luxury outposts like Brasada Ranch and Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa, got very good at fishing and foraging and eventually channeled it all into his narrative cookbook, Dig a Clam, Shuck an Oyster, Shake a Crab. Snag a seat at the chef ’s counter for his best coastal stories and for off-menu bites— some straight from the book—think fish sausage, scallop ceviche or clam dip. Ask wine director John Zoller about his favorite producers, and he’ll deliver lively tales of his own, plus a pour to match. Whatever your order, save room: The coconut cake alone brings regulars back. 188 S. HEMLOCK ST. CANNON BEACH www.annastablecb.com
SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2026
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 19
farm to table
Farm to Table
Gone Fishing Newport’s Cari Brandberg has been fishing for black cod her whole life written by Julie Lee photography by Amanda Loman
Cari Brandberg, co-owner of Chelsea Rose Seafood, poses with a black cod—also known as sablefish—aboard the Chelsea Rose in Newport.
CO-OWNER OF Chelsea Rose Seafood, secondgeneration fisher, fierce advocate for safety gear and protector of Oregon’s fishing fleets and families, Cari Brandberg is a parent to many— whether her adopted and foster children or families left grieving through her work with Newport Fishermen’s Wives. How does she balance it all? “Fires first, every day,” she said, laughing. As we celebrate the International Year of the Woman Farmer, Brandberg exemplifies the female changemakers making a difference in Oregon’s agricultural economy. 20 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2026
Brandberg and her husband, Cody Chase, second-generation fishers, have carved out a corner of the seafood market. Established in 2003, Chelsea Rose is a multigenerational family business selling sustainable seafood, including tuna, halibut, crab and black cod (or sablefish)—a specialty of theirs. All of the seafood they sell is hook-and-line caught, resulting in a high-quality product sourced from their family’s catch and from twenty to twenty-five other local fishing families. People travel from across the Pacific Northwest to purchase whole fish and canned products made from remaining fish and byproducts in Chelsea Rose’s zero-waste facility aboard a historic fishing vessel built in 1907. Offering local seafood yearround, Chelsea Rose is the first place many customers try species such as black cod.
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Chelsea Rose Seafood manager Shelby Bernhardt fillets a black cod aboard the boat. The Chelsea Rose floats at Dock 3 in Newport. Customers examine the current fish offerings for sale on the Chelsea Rose, from albacore tuna to Dungeness crab.
Brandberg enjoys educating visitors from around the world about where quality seafood comes from. Flash-freezing sablefish allows Chelsea Rose to offer it year-round, while its whole-fish approach supports 100 percent utilization and virtually no waste. The business even makes dog biscuits from some byproducts. Brandberg says omega-3-rich sablefish is healthy for dogs’ skin and coats and may help alleviate allergies. “It’s not just for humans!” she said. Black cod is a beautiful white fish that many Americans have never tasted, according to Brandberg. It is one of the most-sustainable seafood choices, which she says should make people “feel really good about enjoying it.” At a time when Oregon’s fishing and crabbing industries face increasing regulations and declining availability, black cod is emerging as a bright spot. It is nearly impossible to bungle. The heart-healthy fish is naturally rich, moist and forgiving to cook. “No one should worry about cooking it,” Brandberg said. “It’s delicious however you prepare it.” Black cod is a favorite of executive chef Alfredo Betanzo at Georgie’s in Newport because “it doesn’t need much to taste amazing.” With its buttery texture, he keeps preparations simple, using lemon, heirloom tomatoes, herbs, butter and capers, allowing the fish to remain the star. “We’re fortunate to use local black cod from Newport, especially from the Chelsea Rose, where the fish is handled with great care from the moment it’s caught,” Betanzo said. “When
you start with such a great product, a few simple ingredients are all you need to create a delicious meal.” Chefs Michelle Korgan and Devon Chase of Ona Restaurant & Lounge in Yachats have deep roots in Portland’s culinary scene. They create elevated comfort dishes that let local ingredients—and black cod from Chelsea Rose—shine, blending close relationships with small producers and curiosity about food from around the world.
Cari Brandberg stands with her son, Sailor Chase, 9, and husband, Cody Chase, aboard their fishing vessel, the Monde Uni, beside longline tubs used to catch hook-and-line black cod.
SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2026
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 21
Sake Lees-Cured Sablefish.
farm to table
Sake Lees-Cured Sablefish
Ona Restaurant & Lounge / YACHATS Michelle Korgan, chef/owner SERVES 4 • 4 (6-ounce) sablefish steaks • Sea salt, to taste • 2¼ tablespoons local honey • Water, as needed for consistency • 1 cup sake lees (kasu) • 2-3 large sheets of kombu, moistened with sake
Black Cod, Two Ways
Black Cod with Lemon Butter Sauce Georgie’s / NEWPORT Alfredo Betanzo, executive chef SERVES 2 • 2 black cod (sablefish) fillets, about 8 ounces each • Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste • 2 tablespoons butter • 2 large prawns, peeled and deveined (1 per serving) (optional) • 2 cloves garlic, minced • 1 cup heirloom tomatoes, diced • ¼ cup chardonnay (or other dry white wine) • 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice • 3 tablespoons butter, cut into pieces • 1 tablespoon capers, drained • 1 tablespoon fresh parsley, chopped • 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
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Ona Restaurant & Lounge
Oregon Recipes
Pat the black cod fillets dry, and season both sides with salt and pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons of butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the black cod, and cook for 3-4 minutes per side, or until the fish is lightly golden and flakes easily with a fork. Transfer to a warm plate. If using prawns, cook them in the same pan for 1-2 minutes per side until just pink. Remove and set aside. Add the minced garlic to the skillet, and sauté for about 30 seconds. Stir in the diced heirloom tomatoes, and cook for 2-3 minutes until they begin to soften. Pour in the chardonnay, and let it simmer for about 2 minutes to reduce slightly. Add the lemon juice. Lower the heat, and whisk in the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter, one piece at a time, until the sauce becomes smooth and glossy. Stir in the capers, parsley and thyme. Return the fish (and prawns, if using) to the pan just long enough to warm through.
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Pat the sablefish steaks dry with paper towels. Lightly season with salt, and allow to rest at room temperature for 20 minutes. In a small bowl, combine honey and 3 tablespoons warm water, and then crumble in the sake lees. If the mixture is too dry, incorporate water a teaspoon at a time until a smooth paste forms. Evenly coat each steak with the marinade. Wrap each piece in the moistened kombu, and refrigerate. Cure for at least 24 hours and up to 3 days for maximum flavor. Prior to cooking, gently scrape off the marinade. Preheat the broiler. Broil the sablefish for approximately 3-4 minutes per side until the fish is cooked through and the surface is caramelized.
Spoon the lemon butter sauce generously over the top. Serve immediately. Chef’s note: Serve with herbed rice and roasted seasonal vegetables. The rice soaks up the lemon butter sauce beautifully, while the roasted vegetables complete a simple meal that lets the black cod remain the star of the plate.
Black Cod with Lemon Butter Sauce. (photo: Georgie’s)
717 SW 10th Ave Portland, OR 97205 503.223.4720 www.Maloys.com
For fine antique and custom jewelry, or for repair work, come visit us, or shop online at Maloys.com. We also buy.
farm to table
Homegrown Chef
Thorsage
written by Thor Erickson photography by Tambi Lane FOR MANY people, sausage has become the culinary metaphor for mystery. We’ve all heard the expression, “You don’t want to know how the sausage is made.” It suggests questionable ingredients, hidden processes and perhaps a little culinary sleight of hand. I couldn’t disagree more. To me, sausage is one of humanity’s greatest culinary achievements. At its best, it is the perfect expression of craftsmanship and thrift—a delicious reminder that with skill, patience and respect for good ingredients, humble cuts of meat can become something extraordinary. Sausage isn’t about hiding flaws. It’s about celebrating possibility. Think of it as an artist’s blank canvas, where pork, salt, herbs, spices, wine, vegetables and smoke become colors on a palette, limited only by imagination. My own sausage story began at age 6. Every holiday season, my father would gather the family to make Scandinavian potato sausage for both our family smorgasbord and my parents’ restaurant. Before long, our annual tradition expanded into bratwurst, weisswurst, Italian calabrese, Polish kielbasa and even spicy North African merguez. Each recipe told a story from somewhere else in the world, yet somehow found a home in our kitchen.
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You definitely do want to know how this sausage is made. See the recipe for Thor’s bratwurst.
farm to table
Back then, there were no shiny electric grinders humming away on the countertop. There was only a heavy cast-iron meat grinder clamped to the table and a hand-cranked sausage stuffer that seemed determined to build character in anyone turning the handle. Four days later, my arm would still remind me we’d made sausage that weekend. My job was to crank the stuffer with just enough pressure—not too fast, not too slow. One of my three sisters stood at the other end, carefully guiding the mixture of pork, fat, salt and spices into delicate natural casings. Too much pressure and a casing would burst. Too little and you’d end up with wrinkled sausages that looked more like tired earthworms than dinner. We laughed, teased one another and occasionally wore more sausage than we stuffed. It was messy. It was loud. It was perfect. Eventually, my father became frustrated with the rising cost of pork and the inconsistent quality available from suppliers. His solution was simple enough: Buy two pigs at the local livestock auction. Naturally, caring for them became my responsibility. My sisters immediately named them Lenny and Squiggy after the comedic greasers from Laverne & Shirley. It’s difficult to think of livestock as future sausage when they come running to greet you every morning. Feeding those pigs taught me something no cookbook ever could: Good food begins long before a recipe. It starts with stewardship. A year later, Lenny and Squiggy had lived remarkably good lives, and, yes, they became the finest sausage we’d ever made. That experience stayed with me. Sausage reminds us to waste nothing, respect everything and honor the animal by using it thoughtfully. Those lessons, learned from Lenny and Squiggy, have shaped not only how I cook but how I think about food itself. As Oregon’s farmers markets begin to overflow with late-summer produce, I find myself returning to one recipe more than any other: a classic bratwurst made with beautifully raised pork, fresh marjoram, white pepper, mace and ginger. Bratwurst is proof that simple ingredients, handled with care, can produce something extraordinary. Grilled and served with caramelized onions, wholegrain mustard and a cold local lager is the kind of meal that reminds us that the best food is often the least complicated. Along the way, I’ve found inspiration in the work of Oregon’s own Elias Cairo of Olympia Provisions. His unwavering commitment to traditional charcuterie, exceptional craftsmanship and thoughtful stewardship of ingredients and heritage has helped elevate the conversation around artisan sausage and cured meats in the Northwest. It’s the kind of work that reminds me that doing things the right way—patiently, intentionally and without compromise—is always worth the effort. Of course, not everyone has the time or inclination to grind meat, season it and spend an afternoon stuffing casings. If making your own sausage isn’t in the cards, Olympia Provisions produces some of the finest bratwurst you’ll find anywhere, making it easy to bring that same level of craftsmanship to your own table. And unlike the old saying suggests, knowing exactly how the sausage is made only makes it taste better.
Bratwurst YIELDS ABOUT 10 4-INCH SAUSAGES • 21/2 pounds boneless pork shoulder, cut into 1/2-inch pieces and put in freezer for 45 minutes prior to grinding • 12 ounces pork back fat, cut into ½-inch chunks and put in freezer for 45 minutes prior to grinding • 2 cups crushed ice • 11/2 tablespoons salt • 11/2 teaspoons ground white pepper • 3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper • 1 teaspoon ground mace • 1 teaspoon ground ginger • 3/4 teaspoon mustard powder • 1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom • 1/4 teaspoon ground coriander • 1/4 teaspoon ground caraway seeds (I do this in a mortar and pestle) • 1 tablespoon fresh marjoram, finely chopped • 1/4 cup heavy cream • 32-mm diameter natural hog casing, about 4 feet SPECIAL EQUIPMENT • Meat grinder • Sausage stuffer TO MAKE THE SAUSAGES Combine the pork, fat and crushed ice in a bowl, and then, working quickly, use a meat grinder to grind the mixture through a 1/4-inch die. Preferably grind the meat mixture into a bowl set atop an ice bath to keep the meat cold. Grind half of the ground mixture a second time. Chef’s note: It is imperative that the meat be at a constant cold temperature so that the fat doesn’t get too soft. You should be able to see clear definition between the
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lean meat and the specks of fat in the ground mixture. Chill the meat in the refrigerator while you assemble the spice mixture. Combine all the spices in a small bowl. Remove the ground meat from the fridge, and place it on the stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Add the spices, marjoram and heavy cream. Mix the meat mixture with the paddle for 3-4 minutes until threads begin to appear in the meat: If you take a clump of meat and pull it apart with your fingers, you will see tiny threads pulling apart. When you see this, your meat is ready. Chef’s note: If the meat mixture is too dry and stiff, add a little ice water. You want a soft/smooth mixture that will easily go into the casings. This is also the time to taste your sausage mixture so you can adjust the seasonings if needed. To do this, take a bit of the meat mixture, fry it in a pan, taste it and adjust the seasonings as needed. Place the sausage mixture back in the refrigerator while you prepare the casings. Thread your sausage stuffer with the prepared hog casings, fill the sausage stuffer with the meat mixture and stuff the casings, being careful to avoid air gaps and not overstuff the casings. Twist the sausages into links. Use a toothpick to prick any air bubbles out of the links. For best results, chill the sausages overnight. TO COOK Place the sausages in a pot of lightly salted water, gradually bring the liquid to a light simmer and gently poach the sausages until partially cooked, about 3-4 minutes (DO NOT BOIL THEM). Remove, and finish by frying or grilling them.
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home + design
Home + Design
Putting Down Roots A worn-down Colonial Revival in Portland is revitalized for new family life written by Melissa Dalton photography by Christopher Dibble
With the Reaves’ new household becoming a multigenerational landing spot, they needed a big and functional kitchen. The two-sided fireplace plays nicely in the kitchen and living room.
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home + design
The 1913 Colonial Revival had the right bones—these bones needed a revival.
WHEN PAM and Chris Reaves were moving from Copenhagen to Portland in 2018, they wanted to live in an old home. “We’ve always had older homes,” said Pam. “There’s something spiritual about older homes to us. They can be a lot of trouble, but they also have a lot of heart.” The couple managed to find one with both: a distinguished Colonial Revival in the Portland Heights neighborhood, originally designed in 1913 by the architecture firm responsible for Pittock Mansion. The Reaves found the heart and soul in all of the historic details still present, from the gabled dormer with its Palladian window, to the chunky dentil molding tucked under the balustrade, and the front door flanked by columns. “The proportions of the house were remarkable,” said Pam. “You think of historical homes as having lots of little tiny rooms, and this one had really gracious rooms.” Less remarkable was the color palette: a rainbow of 1980s hues on most available walls, from bubble-gum pink to lemon yellow and forest green. While the paint could be changed, the home’s deferred maintenance also needed to be addressed, and the couple wanted to make a few tweaks to accommodate modern life, like add a laundry room on the same floor as the bedrooms and a dedicated primary suite, and expand
the kitchen and finish the attic. “We didn’t want it to be a relic,” said Pam. “We’d learned from living a lot of our life in Europe that you can merge these two things, a modern home and a more historical backdrop.” They teamed up with Anne De Wolf, principal designer and owner of Arciform, a firm known for their restoration prowess. They’re the kind of people that can address everything from intricate woodwork and rope and pulley window systems, to installing AC in homes that weren’t designed for such systems. “Chris and I have always done stuff ourself, but this was a different ball game, because the house had been so abused,” said Pam. “We wanted to do the right thing, so having people who knew what they were doing and took their craft very seriously was phenomenal.” They began by restoring the exterior, ensuring it met the requirements of the house’s historic designation. Sections of the balustrade at the top had rotted due to exposure, so the Arciform team refurbished what could be saved, and reproduced what needed to be replaced. Windows were rebalanced and rehung. The striking two-story columns on the north side that frame a covered porch were repaired and reinstalled on sturdier foundations. “There’s all sorts of
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home + design
FROM TOP The Reaves put their own stamp on the traditional, creating a space that would feel more personal. The soft color palette of blues and grays are calming in a bedroom.
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techniques that aren’t invasive at all,” said De Wolf of the restoration process. “You just have to go slow.” Inside, the Reaves pitched in with demolition, which was more painstaking than swinging a sledgehammer. They pulled up layers of vinyl and carpet over the wood floors, peeled back strip upon strip of wallpaper and took the trim off piece by piece in order to remove the offending paint colors, before the trim was returned to its proper place. Doors were shimmied out, so they could polish the brass of every knob, lock and hinge. “We spent a lot of time undoing the things that had been done in the prior remodel that were inconsistent with the spirit of the house,” said Chris. “It felt like we were honoring the original workmanship.” When it came time to put the house back together again, “they wanted to layer the contemporary on top of the old to create this beautiful juxtaposition,” said De Wolf. This started with a new palette of soft whites, blues and grays inspired by their years in Denmark. (Even after being cleaned and stripped, it was still possible to see paint in the grain of the original woodwork, so it had to be repainted.) Contemporary tile, wallpaper, furniture and lighting fosters a pleasant tension set against the historic bones, and offers moments of surprise and delight as you move through the house.
For instance, the primary bathroom is set in a former sleeping porch, complete with windows and wall columns intact, so the scrolls on top of the column echo the glamorous swoop of the brass and nickel bathtub below. In another bathroom, the wall tile is printed with flowers and laid so “it looks like the flowers are blowing in the wind,” said De Wolf. “It’s a bit of an ombré effect and gets lighter as it moves up into the corner.” There are nooks for people to stow away, such as the third floor’s ping-pong room and Pam’s office with her drum kit, as well as gathering spaces galore. The living room sectionals fit the whole family so the couple can put up a projector screen for movie nights, while the kitchen and breakfast room revolve around a two-sided fireplace, another bit of Scandinavian hygge, with a chimney rebuilt by Portland Fireplace and Chimney and the exterior covered in custom handcrafted tile from Tempest Tileworks. Most importantly, with so many children and grandchildren in their family—anywhere from twelve to twenty-two are expected for holiday gatherings—the house now absorbs everyone they love. “We wanted a place that felt like it could hold all of us,” said Pam. “And I always want our home to feel like a soft place they can land.”
ABOVE Simplicity and sophistication in the primary bathroom design. AT RIGHT, FROM TOP Flower-printed tile adds interest to a bathroom. The third-floor ping-pong den. Low sectionals in the living room create a larger sense of space.
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Wonderful Wallpapers
Oregon-designed patterns to instantly add character
written by Melissa Dalton Willem Hendrik Design might be based in Bend, but they draw inspiration for their wallpaper designs from all over the world. Such is why the patterns evoke everything from the ocean blue hues of Capri and pink leopard motifs via Palm Springs to the Art Deco buildings of Miami. Our favorite is the PNW Retreat (pictured), complete with rainbow hues and nods to fly-fishing. www.willemhendrik.com Helmed by Avery Thatcher, the eponymous Portland design studio Thatcher will always surprise, delight and evolve in their takes on modern wallpaper. For example, there’s the new Midnight Troupe line (pictured), inspired by Italian filmmaker Federico Fellini, and the faded glow of a circus closing down for the night. www.thatcherstudio.com Portland-based Kate Blairstone’s collection by Manolo Walls reveals a colorful, maximalist take on uncommon plant motifs. Consider these picks: large-scale Tetrapanax leaves interspersed with light pink Chilean bellflowers, psychedelic shitake mushrooms (pictured) and a striking “ode to the artichoke.” www.kateblairstone.com In Portland, out of a 1911 commercial building painted black on SE Belmont Street, Makelike design studio creates an array of unique and covetable wallpaper designs that “express whatever is inspiring them at the moment.” That might be their first pattern, representing cacti and succulents, or a recent release, called Wave (pictured), which reinterprets vintage flour sack prints. www.makelike.com Photos, from left: Willem Hendrik Design, Thatcher, Kate Blairstone, Makelike
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An artist in his element. Daniel Robinson and his muse, Fossil and surrounding areas.
artist in residence
Artist in Residence
Beautiful Reality Sasha Santiago
Daniel Robinson paints what he sees across north-central Oregon written by Daniel O’Neil
LOOK BEYOND the Cascade Range curtain, past the greenery of the coast, valley and mountains, to where Oregon suddenly turns brown and—apparently—bleak, hardscrabble, less picturesque. There, in the semi-barren lands of north-central Oregon, one might find Daniel Robinson bearing witness to a moment of subtle extreme beauty, some rimrock slope illuminated by a fleeting, sublime sunset, an old silo bathed equally as stunning in the light and just as much a part of that place, all to be carefully composed into a serene painting. With a population of 450 and 60 miles northeast of Madras, Fossil has been Robinson’s home since the turn of this century. He was born in Buffalo, New York, grew up in Boise and Beaverton, and earned an art degree from Portland State University before he noticed the unnatural and natural beauty of paper mills and Willamette Falls in Oregon City, where he practiced plein air painting for ten years before relocating to the rain shadow, where he fits in fine as a reclusive artist. “It’s an austere place—we have juniper trees and grassland and the rugged rocks—but it’s also a beautiful place when you learn how to look for the beauty,” Robinson said. “And that’s part of where being an artist comes in, is really looking and taking the 32 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2026
time to be still and to just be able to take in what is beautiful. When the light is right, and you’re really looking at it and really feeling it, then you’re finding beauty in unlikely places. The subjects I usually pick are kind of ordinary things that are made extraordinary by the elements.” Robinson’s work does not seek to isolate the beauty of a place from its reality. Barns, silos, ranches, fence posts, roads and train tracks populate the north-central Oregon landscape, and Robinson willingly accepts and embraces this human imprint. As he sees it, he is a human on the landscape, admiring the rocks and sky before him. By including mankind in his work, Robinson figures he’s putting himself in the paintings. The evidence of mankind on the landscape is a theme that has long captivated Robinson, who admits he has probably never painted a scene void of human traces. He’s interested in what people are doing and have done, but he also enjoys watching birds and clouds. Such juxtaposition enriches Robinson’s work with visual interest while also providing a narrative. “I’m trying to create a painting that’s beautiful, that’s interesting, that’s truthful, but that also provides the viewer with some kind of questions that they need to work through,” Robinson said.
Photos: Daniel Robinson, courtesy of Froelick Gallery
artist in residence
“When the light is right, and you’re really looking at it and really feeling it, then you’re finding beauty in unlikely places. The subjects I usually pick are kind of ordinary things that are made extraordinary by the elements.” — Daniel Robinson “Why would you want railroad tracks in your beautiful painting of the Columbia Gorge? Well, truthfulness, let’s be truthful about it—they’re there. And yet even though they are there and it is a little jarring, the Wishram hills transcend the scars on the landscape, and they’ve maintained their poise and their beauty even though highways have been cut into them and power lines have been put up. They still have this majesty.” To Robinson’s Portland gallerist, Charles Froelick, few other Pacific Northwest artists pay such homage to agriculture and the human-environment relationship on the rural landscape. “In the world of contemporary art, there are a lot of people that put value on conceptual complexity,” Froelick said. “However, the vast majority of humans like to be able to recognize what they’re looking at, and then they connect with an experience they may have had with it, whether it’s a memory of going to see family on a farm, taking a road trip through rural America or being engaged with it oneself. What I see in Daniel’s paintings makes me want to go experience that landscape in person.” More proof that Robinson’s view and realistic rendering capture attention and provoke thought: The State of Oregon recently acquired work by Robinson, as did Governor Tina Kotek. An upcoming show at the Froelick Gallery, from October 14 to November 28, will give a wider audience an opportunity to experience Robinson’s world, one that he calls “somewhat fanciful” but that is “anchored in a reality of barbed wire and mud puddles and things that normally you don’t think of as beautiful.” Robinson has lived in north-central Oregon long enough to convey the beauty he sifts, like gold dust, from his austere surroundings. Sometimes, but not often, Robinson said he’ll be in the studio painting a certain type of cloud, so focused for hours that he forgets himself before he takes a needed break, walks outside at sunset and looks up to see the same clouds that he’s painting. “That’s when I feel like, ‘Okay, I’m really part of things. I’m making some kind of connection here, or something is connecting with me, on a deep level that really can’t be put into words.’”
FROM TOP Daniel Robinson’s pieces Elevators and Scales (2019), Some Kind of Lonesome (2024) and Wishram Hills (2026).
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my workspace
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my workspace
My Workspace
Photographic Storyteller Southern Oregon’s Mike Maple uses his camera to reveal interesting truths written by Joni Kabana photography by Mike Maple IMAGINE LEAVING your small Tennessee town home at the age of 18, buying a one-way ticket to New York City and having the chutzpah to chase your dream of becoming a photojournalist in a highly competitive field. Mike Maple grew up in Germantown, Tennessee, just outside Memphis, where he developed an interest in photography while in high school. “I bothered every photographer I saw to ask questions,” he said. During a family Kansas City visit, he serendipitously photographed President Harry Truman’s funeral. After graduation, without knowing a soul there, he moved into a YMCA in New York City. After one of his idols, LIFE photographer John Dominis, told Maple to “go back to Tennessee,” he was encouraged by a receptionist to return and hang out in the photographer’s lounge. Maple took her advice and eventually found his way into the Time Life family and formed lifelong friendships, including Dominis, Rudi Crane and Alfred Eisenstaedt. The twenty-eighth floor became his home, where he soon was assisting some of the most renowned photographers in the world. Maple was later mentored by legendary TIME photo editor John Durniak, who helped propel him on a forty-plusyear career as a photojournalist, accepting assignments from TIME, Sports Illustrated, Newsweek, The New York Times and many more publications.
Renowned sculptor, artist and eccentric collector John McIntire in Memphis, Tennessee (2006). Mike Maple takes a self portrait in Lille, France.
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my workspace
After returning to Memphis, Maple worked at the daily newspaper, The Commercial Appeal. “I loved the daily newspaper thing,” he said. “I made my rounds in the community. Just normal everyday people. That is what I found interesting. Everyone has a story; you just have to stop and talk to them.” From Appalachian snake handlers to Elvis’ funeral to covering the civil war in El Salvador, Maple’s photographic subjects are made with a highly humanistic approach. Muhammad Ali,
Ronald Reagan, Julia Child, and Cheech and Chong are among the many people he has photographed, but he “favors the stories between A and Z, the lesser-known subjects.” The Briscoe Center for American History has acquired his archives. Today, Maple lives a quiet life in Southern Oregon where he relishes lush valleys, soaring mountain vistas and plentiful vineyards, and shows and sells his prints. A fan of Frenchglen, Crater Lake and Astoria, Maple has found a homecoming in Oregon.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT A 3-year-old girl peers out her backdoor in an apartment complex in Memphis, Tennessee, that the courts had declared uninhabitable due to crime and poverty (1989). Ronald Reagan jokes with friends and members of the media aboard his airplane during the 1976 presidential campaign. Sales clerk Mrs. Randall enjoys her lunch hour at A. Schwab’s, a historic dry goods store established in 1876 on Beale Street in Memphis, Tennessee, making it the oldest business on the street; Cheech Marin stood over the photographer’s shoulder when this photo was taken, making typical “Cheech” remarks about Mrs. Randall mushing up the crackers in her sardine juice (1980). In many places in West Africa, gas is sold in 1-liter bottles where it can take more than an hour to fill a car; in this case, it took four men with one funnel and one wine bottle almost two hours to fill up a Suburban (1994).
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(541) 943-3931
in the Pacific Northwest Oregon’s mostunforgettable romantic escapes written by Jean Chen Smith
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ROMANCE in Oregon isn’t defined by a single destination—it’s found in the moments shared along the way. Across the state, couples are discovering that the most meaningful getaways aren’t about checking off landmarks but slowing down, reconnecting and embracing experiences that feel both restorative and unforgettable. Here are five of our favorite romantic experiences for two.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The Wine Spa at The Dundee Hotel. Sipping at the nearby tasting room of North Valley Vineyards. Food and wine pairing at Open Claim Vineyards. (photos, clockwise from top left: The Dundee Hotel, The Dundee Hotel, Jean Chen Smith)
DUNDEE
Wellness & Wine for Two For couples drawn to wine country, few places feel more quintessentially Oregon than The Dundee Hotel. This intimate, twenty-two-room boutique property sits in the heart of Dundee, the small Willamette Valley town widely regarded as the birthplace of Oregon’s modern wine industry. It was here, in the rolling hills surrounding town, that pioneering vintners helped establish Oregon pinot noir on the world stage, forever changing the state’s agricultural and culinary identity. Today, couples can immerse themselves in that legacy without ever leaving the property. Located on-site, The Wine Spa offers vinotherapy-inspired treatments designed around the region’s most-celebrated ingredient, while several acclaimed tasting
rooms are located just steps from guest rooms. Spend the afternoon sampling the elegant pinot noirs of Le Cadeau Vineyard, exploring the terroirdriven wines of Open Claim Vineyards, discovering the handcrafted selections of North Valley Vineyards or settling in with a glass and a book at La Biblioteca, a distinctive wine and literary lounge. At Open Claim, couples can elevate the experience with a thoughtfully curated wine-and-food pairing, where seasonal small plates created by chef Jason Fritz are paired with the winery’s estate wines during an intimate, ninety-minute tasting. Together, they create a walkable wine-country escape where romance unfolds at a slower pace—one tasting, chef-crafted pairing, spa treatment and sunset stroll at a time.
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Stop by the cozy Lumos Wine Company tasting room near Corvallis while staying at the on-site guest cabin. (photo: Lumos Wine Company)
CORVALLIS
Countryside Charm While Oregon’s wine country often steals the spotlight, Corvallis offers a quieter, more-intimate kind of romance. Nestled between the Coast Range foothills and the rolling farmland of the Willamette Valley, the university town combines small-town charm, scenic countryside and unexpected culinary experiences that reward couples willing to venture beyond the state’s better-known destinations. For an unforgettable overnight stay, head to nearby Philomath, where the rustic-chic vineyard cabin at Lumos Wine Company offers sweeping views of vine-covered hills and evenings best spent with a glass of estate-grown pinot noir beneath the stars. Back in Corvallis, Corbin Bed & Breakfast provides another distinctive retreat, with thoughtfully designed accommodations nestled among 6 wooded acres and a breakfast experience that has become a destination in its own right. During the day, couples can explore the scenic back roads surrounding Corvallis, browse local shops downtown or venture into the Bellfountain, a small rural community near Monroe for a memorable experience at No Regrets Flower Farm, where seasonal goat yoga classes, farm tours and wine tastings offer a playful twist on traditional date activities. As evening falls, Corvallis reveals its most charming side. Start with dinner at del Alma along the riverfront or share Mexican small plates at TacoVino before catching an independent film at Darkside Cinema, the city’s beloved art-house theater. End the evening with small-batch creations from Sugar J’s Ice Cream Workshop.
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ABOVE, FROM TOP Colors emerge in the autumn in Corvallis. A dinner to feed your soul at del Alma in Corvallis. (photos, from top: Verena Dohmen/ Visit Corvallis, Visit Corvallis)
BREITENBUSH HOT SPRINGS
Visit Breitenbush Hot Springs for a relaxing soak that reconnects you with nature. (photo: Breitenbush Hot Springs)
Forest Bathing
The university town of Corvallis combines small-town charm, scenic countryside and unexpected culinary experiences that reward couples willing to venture beyond the state’s better-known destinations.
In an age of constant notifications and packed schedules, perhaps the most romantic luxury is simply being present together. Tucked deep within the Cascade Mountains east of Salem, Breitenbush Hot Springs offers couples an opportunity to slow down and reconnect through one of the Pacific Northwest’s most restorative experiences: forest bathing. Inspired by the Japanese practice of shinrin-yoku, forest bathing encourages mindful immersion in nature, inviting participants to move slowly through the landscape while paying attention to the sounds, scents, textures and rhythms of the forest. Surrounded by towering Douglas firs, cedar groves and the rushing waters of the Breitenbush River, couples can spend their days wandering wooded trails, soaking in natural geothermal hot springs and disconnecting from the distractions of everyday life. Unlike traditional vacations built around sightseeing, the experience here centers on presence, reflection and shared moments of quiet discovery. Accommodations range from rustic cabins to lodge rooms, while the property’s vegetarian meals are served communally, fostering a sense of connection that feels increasingly rare.
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Spend the morning cycling a scenic stretch of the Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail, packing a picnic to enjoy along the river before setting out to discover some of the Gorge’s most beautiful waterfalls. COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE
Soak in Sauna Culture The Columbia River Gorge has long attracted hikers and outdoor enthusiasts, but it is increasingly becoming a destination for wellness-minded travelers as well. For couples seeking a contemporary romantic escape, Hood River’s Lightwell Hotel + Spa offers an intimate base camp in the heart of the Gorge. The boutique property blends modern design with a distinctly Pacific Northwest sensibility, including an underground wellness space featuring a sauna and hot tub—an inviting retreat after a day spent exploring the region’s dramatic scenery. Couples looking to deepen the experience can also book a session at Nordica Haus, a Nordic-inspired wellness destination in Hood River that combines traditional sauna culture with guided contrast therapy. Moving between heat and cold has become a hallmark of modern wellness, offering an invigorating ritual that many couples find both restorative and energizing. Spend the morning cycling a scenic stretch of the Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail, packing a picnic to enjoy along the river before setting out to discover some of the Gorge’s most beautiful waterfalls, including Wahclella Falls and Latourell Falls.
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FROM TOP Unwind at Nordica Haus in Hood River. Hike out to Latourell Falls on a 2.4-mile nature walk. Relax at Lightwell Hotel + Spa in Hood River. (photos, from top: Pickles Photography/Nordica Haus, Katie Falkenberg/Travel Oregon, Lightwell Hotel & Spa)
Jacksonville’s historic charm makes for the perfect getaway for two. (photo: Travel Southern Oregon)
JACKSONVILLE
A Historic Love Story Few destinations in Oregon feel as effortlessly romantic as Jacksonville. Nestled among Southern Oregon’s rolling hills, the National Historic Landmark town offers a refreshing alternative to larger tourism destinations. Brick sidewalks, beautifully preserved nineteenth-century buildings, wine tasting rooms and tree-lined streets create an atmosphere that invites couples to slow down and savor the moment. Spend the morning exploring the Jacksonville Woodlands trail system before browsing the town’s independent boutiques, galleries and tasting rooms. Stop for a tasting at South Stage Cellars in the heart of downtown before settling in for dinner at Gogi’s Restaurant, where seasonal Northwest ingredients and an intimate atmosphere make it a favorite for date nights.
If you are staying multiple nights, make the short drive to Ashland for a performance at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival, one of the nation’s most-celebrated regional theaters. For accommodations, the historic Jacksonville Inn remains a favorite, offering old-world charm and modern comforts within walking distance of downtown attractions. Couples seeking a more-secluded retreat can book a stay at the nearby Wine Country Inn, where vineyard views and peaceful surroundings provide a romantic base for exploring the Rogue Valley. Whether wandering historic streets, sipping local wines or taking in a world-class performance, Jacksonville captures a timeless kind of romance that feels increasingly rare in today’s fast-paced world.
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Travel Oregon
SOME STATES charm you. Oregon captures your heart. Dark skies untouched by city lights, a world champion cheese, new indie bookstores, delicious Dungeness crab, elk herds 200 strong— the reasons to love this place multiply by the season. Here are twenty-six reasons— big and small, wild and refined—to fall for it all over again.
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Reasons We Love Oregon Right Now written by Kerry Newberry
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Summer Lake Hot Springs
Forget Lobster— Dungeness Crab is the Real Coastal Flex
THE STARS HAVE NEVER LOOKED BETTER
Move over, lobster. Oregon’s signature crustacean has entered the chat. Sweet, succulent and briny in all the right ways, Dungeness crab is worth planning a trip around. Served with melted butter, tucked into a crab roll, stirred into chowder or piled onto a seafood platter, it needs little dressing up. For the freshest catch, head to Newport, home to Oregon’s largest commercial fishing fleet— and the self-proclaimed Dungeness Crab Capital of the World. One bite makes the case.
Skip the crowded overlooks and city lights. Oregon’s Outback is home to the world’s largest International Dark Sky Sanctuary, where 2.5 million acres of protected high desert—from Lake County to Fort Rock and Hart Mountain—deliver night skies almost untouched by artificial light. When the sun goes down, the Milky Way takes over. For the full experience, stay at Antelope Basecamp, the state’s first Dark Skyapproved lodging. Bring a blanket. Prepare to lose track of time. 46
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After more than a century away, sea otters may be returning to Oregon’s coast. Led by the Elakha Alliance, the restoration effort aims to bring back one of the Pacific’s most charismatic and ecologically important species. Beyond their undeniable cuteness, sea otters help kelp forests thrive by keeping sea urchin populations in check. A comeback could mean healthier oceans, stronger coastal communities and a major conservation victory. Learn more during Sea Otter Awareness Week (September 20 through 26), with events and educational programs happening along the coast.
Photos, from left: Joey Hamilton/Travel Oregon, Bigstock
Sea Otters Could Be Staging a Comeback
Wild Bees are Having a Moment
PENDLETON NEVER GOES OUT OF STYLE Long before “heritage” became a trend, Pendleton Woolen Mills was defining American style. Its iconic wool blankets and shirts have appeared everywhere from Surfer Girl to The Big Lebowski, but the real story begins in Eastern Oregon, where the familyowned company has been weaving wool for more than 160 years. To appreciate the craftsmanship behind the brand, tour the Pendleton mill, where towering, two-story Jacquard looms still weave the bold geometric patterns that have become a signature of the American West.
Photos, from top: Pendleton, Ken’s Artisan Pizza
This Eastern Oregon Festival is Weaving Something New Speaking of Pendleton, this fall the town debuts Interwoven: Where Cultures Meet, a threeday festival celebrating the creative exchange between Indigenous and Western makers. Expect to see emerging designers, a marketplace featuring more than seventy artists and makers, thought-provoking panels and runway shows— including one by horseback.
The Indie Bookstore Scene is Only Getting Better Sure, Portland has the legendary Powell’s—the world’s largest independent new-and-used bookstore. But that’s just the first chapter. Across the state, indie bookshops are thriving, from romance-only favorites like Grand Gesture Books in Portland and Daffodil Books in Eugene to charming coastal destinations like Cloud & Leaf in Manzanita, Beach Books in Seaside and Cannon Beach Book Company. Cookbook lovers have their own haven, too: Vivienne Culinary Books, Oregon’s only bookstore devoted entirely to food writing.
Honeybees get most of the attention, but Oregon’s other buzzworthy celebrities are the wild ones. The state is home to more than 600 species of native bees, including some of the rarest on the planet—from the critically endangered Franklin’s bumblebee to the rabbitbrush fairy cuckoo bee, discovered only in 2019. The latest reason to pay attention? Oregon State University’s Bees of Oregon: 2025, the first report of its kind in North America, found the Blue Mountains are the state’s biodiversity hot spot, with 418 documented bee species.
Portland Might Be America’s Best Pizza City New York and Chicago can keep debating. ICYMI, in 2021 Modernist Pizza authors Nathan Myhrvold and Francisco Migoya named Portland the best pizza city in America— and the city keeps backing it up, with local spots regularly landing on the prestigious 50 Top Pizza USA guide. Start with Ken’s Artisan Pizza, GRANA and Nostrana, and then prepare to rethink everything you thought you knew about a great pie.
Ken’s Artisan Pizza, Portland
Long before wellness became a lifestyle category, Oregon had already mastered the art of restoration. Here, the prescription is simple: Soak in natural hot springs, wander beneath ancient forests or follow a waterfall into the quiet of an evergreen canyon. With 363 miles of public coastline, alpine landscapes and wideopen spaces that invite you to slow down, Oregon offers the kind of reset no app can replicate. Just step outside.
The James Beard Awards Keep Coming for Oregon Since the James Beard Awards began recognizing America’s culinary standouts in 1991, Oregon chefs and restaurants have collected more than twenty honors, turning the state into one of the country’s most-exciting dining destinations. The momentum is only growing. In 2026, two more Oregon names joined the national spotlight. Nodoguro’s Ryan Roadhouse took home Best Chef: Northwest and Pacific after years of acclaim, while Portland’s Scotch Lodge earned Outstanding Bar. Consider it your cue to book that resy.
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WATERFALL SEASON NEVER ENDS HERE Multnomah Falls
Waterfalls … hallelujah. We can never get enough of the Columbia River Gorge’s cinematic, 12-mile Waterfall Corridor. The star attraction is Multnomah Falls, Oregon’s tallest waterfall, plunging 620 feet in two dramatic tiers. But the nearby supporting cast enchants, too: Latourell Falls and Wahkeena Falls. Skip the driving with the Waterfall Shuttle.
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Believe it. In 2019, Rogue Creamery made history as the first American producer to earn the title of World’s Best Cheese at the World Cheese Awards in Bergamo, Italy—for its now-legendary Rogue River Blue. Aged up to a year and hand-wrapped in syrah grape leaves soaked in pear spirits, it’s released just once each fall in famously limited quantities. Taste it for yourself at Rogue Creamery’s tasting room in Central Point—a pilgrimage every cheese lover should make.
Even Yoga Gets a Little Wild The state known for goat yoga—yes, actual yoga with goats—has turned a simple stretch into an experience rooted in place. Here, mats are unfurled between vineyard rows, beneath fragrant lavender fields, along the Pacific shoreline and set in fields of colorful dahlias.
Photos, from left: © Eliesa Johnson for James Beard Foundation, Katie Falkenberg/Travel Oregon, Red Herring Design/Rogue Creamery
THE WORLD’S BEST CHEESE? IT’S FROM HERE
Oregon Invented the Reset Button
Photos, clockwise from top left: Timberline, Alex Jordan/Oregon Coast Visitors Association, Diana Todorova Photography/LucidWild Estate
Timberline’s Mountain Celebrities are Adorable St. Bernards
The People’s Coast is One Giant Art Gallery
The views of Mount Hood always enchant, but at Timberline Lodge, the true stars arrive on four paws. Since the iconic lodge opened in 1937, generations of resident St. Bernards have welcomed guests, transforming a charming tradition into one of Oregon’s most-beloved rituals. Heidi (tenth) and Bruno (twelfth), the latest fourlegged ambassadors, have already embraced their roles as official greeters, photo companions and instant crowd favorites. Come for the mountain. Stay for the dogs.
Who needs a museum when the entire coastline is the exhibit? Along the state’s 363 miles of glorious coastline, the Oregon Coast Public Art Trail features more than 800 works of art scattered across thirty creative communities from Astoria to Brookings. Follow the self-guided route, and you’ll discover larger-than-life sea creatures, vibrant murals, coastal installations and a new tribute to African-American settler Louis Southworth. Available 24/7 and always free, the trail celebrates the stories and creativity of a place where the rugged and rocky coast itself is already a work of art.
Shakespeare Still Steals the Show in Ashland For nearly a century, the Oregon Shakespeare Festival has turned Ashland into one of America’s mostbeloved theater destinations. Founded in 1935, the celebrated nonprofit festival brings Shakespeare, contemporary works and bold new productions to stages that draw audiences from around the world. Planning a fall escape? October brings the season to a dramatic close, with productions like A Midsummer Night’s Dream and Come From Away joining the lineup for one last curtain call.
LucidWild Estate
AWE-INSPIRING WINERIES Get the scoop on how regenerative agriculture is redefining sustainable wine and farming at Troon Vineyard & Farm in Southern Oregon and Ambar Estate in the Willamette Valley—the latter was just declared one of the Top Winery Restaurants in the World by Wine Enthusiast’s prestigious 2026 global roundup. Design lovers, meet your new obsession: LucidWild Estate, where cinematic modern architecture meets an underground cave, plus tastings that come with meet-and-greets from Valais blacknose sheep, llamas and mini highland cows. Or head to Corollary Wines in Amity, a sparkling-only house with a sleek, cherry bomb-red tasting room and bubbles-inspired chandeliers overhead.
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Crooked River Canyon Scenic Bikeway
THIS STATE WAS BUILT FOR CYCLING Trade traffic for trails, and you can pedal through moss-covered forests and along windswept coastlines. With eighteen official Scenic Bikeways, the legendary 365-mile Oregon Coast Bike Route and the newly completed Corvallis-to-the-Sea Trail, the state offers endless ways to explore—whether chasing gravel through the Coast Range or cruising quiet country roads.
The Catch of the Day is Every Day
Winter Waters
Tufted Puffins Live Here
In Oregon, local fishers reel in some of the coast’s most-prized catches, from wild albacore tuna and halibut to Dungeness crab, pink shrimp and lingcod. But the real flavor of Oregon’s seafood scene goes beyond the menu. Coastal festivals and gatherings celebrate the people behind the catch, from Winter Waters in February to the FisherPoets Gathering, where commercial fishers share tales of storms, boats and life on the water. With the new Oregon Seafood Trail, there’s never been a better time to dive in.
With its brilliant orange beak, golden tufts and dramatic cliffside homes, this striking seabird is truly captivating. But the puffin’s future is fragile. Once numbering nearly 5,000 along Oregon’s coast, populations have declined sharply, making conservation efforts critical. Today, Three Arch Rocks in Tillamook County protects the state’s largest remaining colony, while Cannon Beach’s Haystack Rock offers one of the best chances to spot puffins during breeding season. A glimpse of these elusive birds is a reminder Oregon’s wild places are worth preserving.
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Oregon’s mostcoveted treasure is hiding underground. Native truffles have become one of the state’s most-unexpected culinary obsessions, and the Oregon Truffle Festival turns the hunt into an adventure led by some seriously talented truffle dogs. Each year, chefs, foragers and curious food lovers descend on the state for truffle hunts, dog-training weekends and culinary classes celebrating Oregon’s wild side. The state has made it official, proclaiming February Oregon Truffle Month. Fungi finally got their due.
Pawsitively Amazing People If your social feed could use more joy, meet Lee Asher. The founder of The Asher House has turned animal rescue into a movement, built on one idea: Every animal deserves a second chance. Before making Oregon home, Asher spent more than two years on the road with his rescue dogs, traveling across forty-nine states to champion shelter adoptions and share stories of hope. His first book, Saved by the Pack: How 50 Dogs Helped Me Find My Purpose, arrives this fall.
Photos, clockwise from top left: Russ Roca/Travel Oregon, Kathryn Elsesser/Oregon Truffle Festival, Rachelle Hacmac/Winter Waters
You Can Forage for Native Truffles With Truffle Dogs
A New Yorker Cartoonist Calls Portland Home
You Can Forage for Dinner, Then Feast in the Forest
Photos, clockwise from top left: Wanderlust Tours/Visit Bend, Bigstock, Ema Peter/Port of Portland, ODFW
After a guided foraging adventure through the Cascade forests with Bend-based Wanderlust Tours, gather beneath a canopy of ponderosa pines and firs for a fourcourse feast from Luckey’s Woodsman. Between courses, chef Jackson Higdon shares stories from the region and the techniques behind his outdoor-inspired food. The next dinner takes place October 17.
Oregon has no shortage of literary stars, from Cheryl Strayed to Lidia Yuknavitch—but a morerecent arrival is acclaimed cartoonist and author Tom Toro, whose work regularly graces The New Yorker. Pick up his latest book, And to Think We Started as a Book Club, at one of the state’s stellar indie bookstores.
You Can See Wild Roosevelt Elk Up Close Few wildlife experiences in Oregon rival the sight of a herd of Roosevelt elk roaming the misty Coast Range. At Jewell Meadows Wildlife Area, winter feeding tours (December through February) offer a rare chance to observe up to 200 of these magnificent animals from an unusually close, yet respectful, distance. Tours are free with a parking permit, but reservations disappear almost instantly when they open at 8 a.m. on December 1. Set your speed dial now.
EVEN THE AIRPORT SHOWS OFF NOW PDX recently landed at No. 1 in the nation, earning top marks from AirHelp and The Washington Post—and a No. 2 spot in Travel + Leisure’s 2025 World’s Best Awards. Much of the love goes to the airport’s spectacular new main terminal, where a soaring timber roof, giant video screens and a who’s who of local food, retail and art proves getting here can be half the fun. SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2026
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8 Seconds Rodeo RIDES INTO PORTLAND written and photographed by Aubrey Janelle THIS ACTUALLY was my first rodeo. This summer, 8 Seconds Rodeo took place in Portland’s inner city limits—where organizers had to bring dirt in by the truckload, where men and women arrived from Texas to Oklahoma to win big, where teenage girls barrel raced and where I met a horse named Rodeo, the owner a Portland native himself. The energy was palpable from the moment you walked into the Veterans Memorial Coliseum. It was Sunday, June 21: Juneteenth, summer solstice and Father’s Day weekend. The Portland community had every reason to celebrate. The announcer’s voice came over the speakers, reminding the crowd that we are here to celebrate “culture, community and Black excellence.” And that’s exactly what 8 Seconds Rodeo did. Eight seconds doesn’t seem like a long time until you’re watching a bull feverishly attempt to throw a man off his back. A fraction of a minute seems like slow motion as you witness just how fast a horse can be maneuvered around a barrel, sending dirt into the sky while the crowd roars and the duo charges straight down the line from which they emerged. Almost as impressive as the raw athleticism were everyone’s outfits, and dance moves. DJ Mal-Ski played music that kept anyone from sitting still; in fact, getting out of your seat was encouraged. Hand fans clacked open to the beat of the music while sweat dripped down brows. Chains, grills, boots and fringe bobbed and weaved through the crowd. 8 Seconds Rodeo is Black cowboy culture. Black cowboy culture is the culmination of joy, athleticism, music and fashion. And here in the Pacific Northwest, the rodeo represents more than a rider on a horse. It’s about preservation and expansion. Founder and photojournalist Ivan McClellan said it best: “This isn’t just about competition—it’s about visibility, legacy and creating a new future for Western culture.” 52 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2026
Derion Chavis of the Blue Bird Riders competes in the bareback event at 8 Seconds Rodeo in Portland in June.
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BELOW Garrion Hull adjusts his chaps and smokes a cigarette before the events at 8 Seconds Rodeo. AT FAR LEFT, FROM TOP Rodeo athletes dance to music outside of the Veterans Memorial Coliseum. An audience member dances with a hand fan.
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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Kobi-Lynn carries the Pan-African flag on horseback in the opening ceremony of the 8 Seconds Rodeo. Rodeo founder and photojournalist Ivan McClellan closes out the rodeo with a speech. The arena sits empty between events. A wrangler lassos a loose bull.
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Jaelah Knapper of the Blue Bird Riders competes in barrel racing. Garrion Hull holds on during the bull riding event. A cowboy preps a bull before a ride. A rodeo attendee shows off her grill. Two cowboys rest against a pen.
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TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 62 ADVENTURE 64 LODGING 66 TRIP PLANNER 68
pg. 64 Everything old is new again when it comes to hot/cold experiences in Oregon.
Ebb & Ember
NORTHWEST DESTINATION 76
E • SHOP • N I
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THER • S A T G
Explore Albany y r o t s r u o y Discover
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From unique shopping to local wine, farm fresh food, and our beloved carousel, Albany is full of memorable stops. We’re #authenticallyAlbany, and we can’t wait to share it with you.
Scan the code for our favorite experiences or plan your trip at VisitAlbany.com Download our free Albany Explorer app today. Photos (clockwise from right): Emma Downtown, Albany Farmers’ Market, Historic Carousel (photo by AO Films), The Natty Dresser
Travel Spotlight
Holey Phenomena!
Oregon’s ‘Drainpipe of the Pacific’ written by Joni Kabana
Thor’s Well, on the Oregon Coast and south of Yachats, is a powerful “Drainpipe of the Pacific.”
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Bigstock
OREGON HAS ITS fair share (and more!) of natural wonders, but one freaky standout is Thor’s Well, a large sinkhole 3 miles south of Yachats near Cape Perpetua. This is not the ordinary road type of sinkhole. This is a massive hole near the edge of the ocean where salt water rushes seemingly into a bottomless basalt pit. Sounds scary? Just wait until you see it in person. This “Drainpipe of the Pacific” is actually a 20-foot rock formation that most likely occurred when a sea cave’s roof fell, creating an opening in the rock hosting massive waterflow that can titillate one of those most terrifying recurring nightmares. It gets its name due to local legend that Thor, the Norse god of thunder, became enraged and punched a hole with his hammer into the earth. The best time to see this natural phenomena is at high tide or, better yet, during a coastal storm. Arrive just before high tide, and you will see the hole as it sits empty and watch it fill up rapidly. If conditions are conducive, you might also see the Spouting Horn, where sea water shoots high in the sky as it forcefully hits the sides of the well. Reaching Thor’s Well is only a 5- to 10-minute walk from the parking area, and there are a few steps to reach the viewing area. Caution must be applied in abundance, as sneaker waves are common and can sweep risk-taking onlookers away. The volcanic rock is highly slippery, so do not get a harebrained idea to get closer for that perfect shot. And hold onto your cameras—high winds have snatched many pieces of equipment away from unsuspecting hands and into the abyss. Nightmare or dreamy landscape? You decide!
C U LTU R A L I N S T I TUT E
www.tamástslikt.org • 541.429.7700 ww 47106 47 7 106 Wildhorse Blvd. Pendleton, OR 97801 Exhibits, Museum Store Open Tues-Sat, 10am-5pm Kinship Cafe Open Tues-Sat 11am-2pm First Fridays are FREE!
dive in, stay a while
89.9 FM allclassical.org
adventure
Adventure
Hot and Bothered
Across Oregon, sauna-and-plunge rituals are turning up the heat on connection, calm and date night written by Cathy Carroll
Flux Thermal Lounge in Bend calibrates its cold plunges to track the Deschutes River’s seasonal temperatures, from a summery 65 degrees down to a wintery 45.
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experience at Breitenbush Hot Springs, I wasn’t rushing to try it again. I thought the new Flux Thermal Lounge in Bend would help. With six soaking pools ranging from 45 degrees to 104 degrees, it professes a no-pressure, good vibes reinvention of the lounge experience—part modern bathhouse, part social space. It hosts sound baths, DJ nights and “Ice Breaker,” a playful social evening designed around meeting new people in a relaxed, low-pressure environment. Queer community nights are in the works, too. Flux founder and CEO Dini Vemuri said the concept is an alternative to Bend’s more traditional social infrastructure around alcohol consumption, offering warmth, cold, music, lighting and shared experience to create a different kind of social energy. “There aren’t a lot of low-pressure ways to meet people,” she said. “If you go to the speed-dating things or you’re going on these apps, the vibe is just different versus here, where there’s no pressure, you can get into open conversation. There’s a whole bunch of other people, and it’s very approachable for introverts.”
Flux Thermal Lounge
SITTING NAKED IN A RUSTIC cedar sauna in the forest along the Breitenbush River, steam rising through slots in the wood floor and sweat beading down my back, I felt my core approaching the same temperature as the earth’s—unsurprising in a sauna perched atop a capped geyser of volcanically heated water from thousands of feet underground. Pushing open the door, I plunged into a clawfoot tub of frigid water—a bracing slap that brought me to my heightened senses. I returned for sweatfest part two and emerged onto the snow-covered deck feeling triumphant, renewed, invincible. Giddy with geothermally induced vigor, I sat on a snow-covered ponderosa pine log, wearing two well-positioned fern fronds and posed for my Christmas card photo. It was years ago, and recipients thought it proved the practice required a strong heart and a weak mind. Today, however, sauna-cold plunges pour into my Instagram feed, emblematic of a global trend that’s taking hold in Oregon in many forms. While I never forgot the rush of that
Kelli Rad/Gather Sauna House
Samantha Henry/Gather Sauna House
adventure
Gather Sauna House parks its mobile sauna beside the Deschutes River in Bend for cold plunges informed by Baltic sauna tradition.
It’s also popular for couples’ date nights—a distraction-free environment where phones are off-limits. “It’s a space where you can really settle into your own body, and when you feel settled, you’re much more receptive,” said Vemuri. “That highbandwidth communication for any relationship is the basis for trust and respect that comes when you can really fully see each other, and this is a space where that can happen easily.” Flux isn’t the only place reworking this ritual. A few miles away, at Gather Sauna House in Bend, Halina Kowalski-Thompson takes a route rooted in her own Baltic heritage. She spent fifteen years as a mental health counselor and trauma therapist at the Portland VA Medical Center, and now she applies that same lens to sauna and plunge—small, repeatable doses of stress that teach the nervous system it can recover. She trained with a master of Baltic sauna rituals, pirts (pronounced “peerts”), in Latvia. That philosophy shapes how Gather runs: no clocks, no metrics. “This is one place not to be on a clock,” Kowalski-Thompson said. “We really want to encourage you to follow your body and listen to your body.” The signal to leave the sauna is simple: “When the idea of jumping in an ice-cold river sounds great.”
She points to its universality, from Finnish and Baltic to Roman and Indigenous sweat lodge rituals, nearly every culture developed some version of thermal cycling. Research supports the traditions: Heat triggers the production of proteins that help repair and clear out damaged cells, while cold exposure spikes dopamine and norepinephrine, resetting the nervous system and, over repeated sessions, training the body to handle stress more calmly, she said. Kowalski-Thompson doesn’t prescribe minimums—even a few seconds in the cold does something good, she said, but for guests chasing real results, she points to a rough range of thirty seconds to four minutes per plunge, and a weekly baseline, drawn from recent research, of around fifty minutes total in the sauna and eleven minutes total in the cold, split across several sessions. From October through May, Gather’s mobile, wood-fired sauna parks by the Deschutes River. When the river freezes, they simply break holes in the ice. The rest of the year, the sauna relocates to Hanai Foundation center in Bend, where coldplunge tubs stand in for the river.
Ebb & Ember PORTLAND Plunge into the Columbia River from the floating sauna moored there. www.ebbandember.com
Imzadi Sauna & Forest Spa ASTORIA Sauna, cold plunge and forest bathing along the Klaskanine River. www.imzadisauna.com
Chozu Bath & Tea Gardens ASHLAND Japanese-style bath gardens with soaking pools, cold plunges, steam rooms and custom sauna. www.chozugardens.com
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Photo: Ebb & Ember
MORE SAUNA + COLD PLUNGE EXPERIENCES TO EXPLORE
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Photos: Carter Hiyama/Lucky Duck
THE STAY The two-bedroom guesthouse gets the luxe treatment: Coyuchi linens, Hawkins New York towels, Under Luna bath products and a tucked-away private hot tub. Want to really settle in? Add a fridge stocked with prepared foods and wine curated by chef Kari.
CORNER CAFÉ
Lodging
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Inside Lucky Duck’s guest house. Wine country hospitality with scratch-made pastries from the Corner Cafe. A kitchen made for your own culinary pursuits.
Lucky Duck written by Kerry Newberry WANT TO LIVE like a local in the heart of Oregon wine country? Check into Lucky Duck, where Carlton’s oldest building is now a sleek home base for eating, drinking and settling into small-town life. Upstairs, a newly refreshed two-bedroom guest house occupies the top floor of the 1910 building that once housed Carlton’s first bank. The latest venture from James Beard-nominated chef Kari Shaughnessy and her Hayward team, Lucky Duck puts a distinctly local spin on wine-country hospitality. Think Oregon’s twist on the European “country restaurant with rooms”—an immersive stay where food and drink are central to the fun, not an afterthought. Decorated with earthy ceramics, funky art posters and vintage lamps, the living space has serious cool-aunt vibes. And the kitchen? Chef-worthy, naturally, with Bernal Cutlery knives, Made In cookware and Sabre flatware. Go ahead and plan a night in. Outside, the private courtyard is made for dinner parties. Fire up the grill, gather around the outdoor table for ten or just sink into the hot tub with a glass of local wine. Come morning, head downstairs for espresso and something freshly baked at the Lucky Duck café, and then grab picnic provisions before heading out. For wine, Flâneur Wines and Big Table Farm are both just a few blocks away. Think less hotel, more keys to the most-coveted apartment in wine country. 119 W. MAIN ST. CARLTON www.luckyduckor.com
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Good mornings start here with espresso from Summon Coffee and pastries from the Hayward kitchen. The graband-go case is stocked with picnic provisions, from farmstead cheeses and ferments to cured meats and tubs of Hayward’s umami-rich koji butter. And don’t miss chef Kari’s cult-favorite tahini cookies—if you can snag one before they sell out.
LUCKY DUCK SHOP Find earthy ceramics from Sarah Kersten Studio, MADRE Linen napkins, Sabre cutlery, vintage glassware, statement whisks and a thoughtful selection of wines from producers including Monument and Morgen Long. The flower-adorned cookbook room stacks floor-to-ceiling shelves with the tomes that inspire Hayward’s kitchen and personal notes from the chef.
POP-UPS There’s always something cooking. Seasonal pop-ups range from tastings with boutique producers like Perry Colin to restaurant residencies, including a recent Mexican-inspired stint from Astral. Come fall, holiday markets bring cured meats from Revel Meat Co., bouquets from Even Pull Farm and the chef’s legendary sourdough focaccia.
Escape to the coast for a romantic getaway at Shearwater Inn in the heart of Lincoln City. Wake up to beautiful ocean views, and enjoy a light complimentary continental breakfast delivered to your room each morning. Spend the day strolling the beach, relax in the hot tub, then enjoy dinner for two at Kyllo’s Seafood & Grill, conveniently located right next door. End the evening in your ocean-view room with a king bed, gas fireplace and deck—the perfect setting for a little time away together.
Relax Overlooking the Ocean
120 NW Inlet Court LINCOLN CITY
541.994.4121 | shearwaterinn.com
Oceanfront
Comfort Enjoy breathtaking ocean views in the heart of downtown Cannon Beach. Just steps from the beach and local restaurants, shops and galleries, Schooner’s Cove Inn is the perfect setting for your next Oregon Coast vacation.
188 N. Larch Street CANNON BEACH
503.436.2300 | schoonerscove.com
trip planner
Roseburg
THANKFULLY, Richard Sommer ignored the naysayers. Sixty-five years ago, the pioneering winemaker planted what would become Oregon’s first commercial pinot noir vineyard, on a former turkey farm outside Roseburg. Since then in Southern Oregon’s scenic Umpqua Valley—now home to some thirty wineries—vintners have routinely followed the instincts of the late “Father of Oregon Wine,” experimenting with new-to-Oregon varietals and yield-boosting innovations and even launching a winery in a former car dealership. Risk-taking spirit has long been a hallmark around Roseburg, the Douglas County seat and onetime Oregon timber capital, from the time mercantile owner Aaron Rose claimed 320 acres in the Homestead Act in the 1850s—and then gave parcels away to attract the railroad and even churches to his new town. Among other notable examples, wood industry giant Roseburg Forest Products began as a Depression-era sawmill with salvaged parts. And in 1972, a conservationist rolled the dice on rural Douglas County for the state’s only drive-thru animal park, Wildlife Safari. An Indigenous word for dancing water, the Umpqua is actually a patchwork of more than 100 interconnected valleys nestled between the Klamath, Cascades and Coast mountain 68 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2026
written by James Sinks
ranges. For thousands of years before white settlers arrived and swindled them, the Cow Creek Band of Umpqua Tribe of Indians called the valleys home. It won back its official tribal status in the 1980s and now runs the Seven Feathers Casino Resort in Canyonville. The water still dances. The North and South tributaries of the Umpqua River slide through rugged valleys, whitewater and fishing holes, and braid together near Roseburg en route to the Pacific. Along the way, you’ll find lures for waterfall hunters, hot spring dunkers, kayakers, bikers and hikers. Explore historic downtowns, breweries and farm-to-table menus. With sparse crowds, and iffy cell service in spots, maybe you’ll also personally recharge. “It is a beautiful place to slow down,” said Cooper Ridge Vineyard co-owner Paula Wilson, standing on their multilevel deck on a hillside above the North Umpqua River. The view is something. So, too, are the sparkling wines they’ve been experimenting with. Taste some? The Sparkling Pomegranate Cuvée is a winner. In the Umpqua nowadays, it’s very easy to say yes.
Photo: Experience Roseburg
The North Umpqua River remains one of Oregon’s pristine rivers for fly-fishing and rafting.
From wine to wildlife, their risks are your rewards
FA R M F R E S H TA ST E O F FA L L .
WE LIKE IT.
Fall tastes better when you slow down and savor it. In Roseburg, country roads lead to farm stands overflowing with the season’s harvest, while crisp mornings and golden afternoons invite you to linger a little longer. Spend the day exploring, then settle into a cozy evening surrounded by the beauty of the season. It’s an easy kind of escape, where the pace is slower, the scenery is beautiful and there’s always something f resh waiting around the corner.
555 SE KANE STREET | 541-672-9731 | EXPERIENCEROSEBURG.COM
James Sinks Experience Roseburg
Experience Roseburg
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Challenge your game at Bar Run golf course. The prized carrot cake from The Farmstand by Lehne Farms. Kick back at Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards.
Day WINERIES • GOLF • LIVE MUSIC You’re not hallucinating. Yes, those are giant mushrooms and a massive marijuana joint atop an Interstate 5-flanking store in the town of Sutherlin. Yet that’s not what you’ll find inside. Irreverent and kitschy, Magic Mushroom Oregon Gifts was opened two decades ago by Linda Pinsent and her husband, who fashioned mushroom-shaped lamps out of natural materials like seashells. Today, they sell pretty rocks and the handiwork of local artists. For chuckles, there’s a sign declaring a “clothingoptional” shopping section. At the onetime site of a moonshine operation is Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards, the nation’s first to commercially produce the tart Austrian white grüner veltliner. Judges called their 2021 bottling the best white wine in the country. The winery is a perfect first stop to sample the diversity of vintages that thrive in the Umpqua’s Mediterranean-like climate, with its hot days and cool nights. Their bold syrahs also have worked their way onto best-of lists. The sloping property also features Southern Oregon’s first wine cave, with cozy sitting areas, Roman-style artwork on the ceilings, scriptures underfoot and, among the barrels, a smiling Humpty Dumpty. (Still not hallucinating. It’s actually a concrete winemaking cask.) An old tractor is parked in front at The Farmstand by Lehne Farms. In the back, you can park yourself at their charming coffee shop and bistro, with fresh salads, soups and baked goods. Try the gluten-free carrot cake and frozen chocolate bananas, with or without hazelnuts. From here, its a quick drive to HillCrest Vineyard, the stillmodest birthplace of Oregon’s pinot noir industry and also a horticultural laboratory. Richard Sommer tried planting several varietals—and the new owners have their own creative spark, and even make wine in Europe. 70 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2026
Nearby, Girardet Vineyards and Winery, another of Oregon’s early wineries when it opened in 1971, was the state’s first grower and bottler of baco noir, a rich red French hybrid. With reliably warm autumn days and maybe a sore tush from hours in the car, you can unwind many ways at nearby Bar Run, a reclaimed gravel mine. Swing clubs on its eighteenhole golf course flanking the South Umpqua River, or plop into a lazy river pool and covered hot tub—open through September—that feel plucked from a Disney resort. Pool day passes are $40. Like many downtowns in rural places, Roseburg’s historic district is quieter than it used to be. You still will find a crowd at upscale True Kitchen + Bar, launched by a onetime waitress with a vision for a community gathering place. Try the steaks or scallops, and save room for the skillet cookie with caramel and local Umpqua Ice Cream. A block away is The Rosebud Theatre, a cozy remodeled music venue opened by local musicians, with a velvet rope in front, acts every weekend and a speakeasy in back with a turntable and happy vibes. Still not hallucinating. This is really Roseburg.
Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards is a perfect first stop to sample the diversity of vintages that thrive in the Umpqua’s Mediterranean-like climate.
e p a c Es to Sunny Sequim!
Tucked in the rain shadow of the Olympic Mountains, Sequim is full of natural beauty, outdoor adventure, and small town charm. Any time is a great time to visit Sequim on the Olympic Peninsula!
visitsunnysequim.com 1-800-737-8462
trip planner
Day In 1959, a late-night fire near downtown spread to a parked truck laden with explosives. Heard 30 miles away, the explosion— known as The Blast—remains one of Oregon’s biggest tragedies. It killed fourteen people and injured 120 others, flattened several blocks and sparked tighter safety regulations nationally. From the epicenter and a memorial plaque, it’s a short walk to Jackson Street, with strong java everyday at Bumble & Bean and the Umpqua Valley Farmers Market on Saturdays. Along the avenue, browse Gallery Northwest for local art, Whiskey Creek Rustics for clothes and keepsakes, Serendipity for chocolates and Mac’s Tracks for model railroad things. If you’re a train buff, or not, owner Lachlan MacKinnon will point you to a warehouse where the Umpqua Valley Model Railroad Club is building a Douglas County diorama. Passenger trains stopped coming to Roseburg in 1955. Today, the former depot is the southernmost location of the McMenamins historic preservation and brewery family, with ales and pub fare arrivals on the trackside patio. Among Blast-damaged buildings in 1959 was a former Chevrolet dealership, which has been repurposed into the Paul O’Brien Winery. You’ll still find impressive models in the showroom and tanks in the garage, only now with more refined octane. Also downtown in a circa-1908 building is the tasting room of boutique Trella Vineyards, which bottles a sparkling malbec rosé, pinot noir and a punchy baco noir called Pugilist. Dubbed the Highway of Waterfalls, State Highway 138 curves a lot between Roseburg, Diamond Lake and Crater Lake. Along the way and into the Umpqua National Forest, you’ll be within short hikes of eleven splashy wonders including two-tiered Toketee Falls, which tumbles 120 feet in a basalt canyon. Nearby is the trailhead to cliffside Umpqua Hot Springs, a popular spot for campers and bathing suit haters. The bulk of the drive, you’ll follow the crystalline North Umpqua River, where risk-seeking boaters bounce in Class III whitewater and fly-fishers try their moxie along 33 exclusive miles for steelhead, salmon and sea-run trout. Guides are available for hire. In old mining parlance, a “steamboat” signaled an unproductive claim, and it was time to move on. In the enclave of Steamboat, the mines may have disappointed, but it’s satisfying now with fishing, farm-to-table dinners and technology-free relaxation at the iconic Steamboat Inn. Overlooking the North Umpqua, the place offers easy access to where early 1900s novelist Zane Grey once camped and fished. With no cell service, you’re invited to do weird things like talk, play board games and read in front of a fire. And as night falls, leave a window or door ajar. The dancing water never gets old. 72 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2026
Photos: Experience Roseburg
DOWNTOWN • HIGHWAY OF WATERFALLS
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Downtown Roseburg features a mural by artists Karen Eland and Katie Daisy. Toketee Falls plunges a towering 120 feet. On the banks of the Umpqua, Steamboat Inn is a favorite for those who fly-fish and just want to unplug. The optimal growing environment makes the Umpqua Valley Farmers Market one of Oregon’s best.
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EAT Brix Chill and Grill www.brixgrillroseburg.com Bumble & Bean @bumbleandbean.coffee on Instagram The Farmstand at Lehne Farms www.thelehnefarms.com Lighthouse Center Bakery www.lighthousecenterbakery.com McMenamins Roseburg Station www.mcmenamins.com/ roseburg-station-pub-brewery Steamboat Inn www.thesteamboatinn.com
Experience Roseburg
ROSEBURG, OREGON
trip planner
True Kitchen + Bar www.truekitchenandbar.com
A majestic hike along the North Umpqua Trail goes for 79 miles.
Umpqua Valley Farmers Market www.uvfarmersmarket.com
Day
STAY
HIKING + BIKING • WILDLIFE PARK • SOURDOUGH
Cooper Ridge Vineyard www.cooperridgevineyard.com Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards www.reustlevineyards.com Seven Feathers Casino Resort www.sevenfeathers.com Steamboat Inn www.thesteamboatinn.com
PLAY Abacela www.abacela.com Bar Run www.barrungolf.com Cooper Ridge Vineyard www.cooperridgevineyard.com Girardet Vineyards and Winery www.girardetwine.com HillCrest Vineyard www.hillcrestvineyard.com North Umpqua Trail www.blm.gov Paul O’Brien Winery www.paulobrienwines.com Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards www.reustlevineyards.com The Rosebud Theatre www.therosebudtheatre.com The Secret Wine Society www.thesecretwinesociety.com Toketee Falls www.fs.usda.gov Trella Vineyards www.trellavineyards.com Triple Oak Wine Vault www.tripleoakwinevault.com Wildlife Safari www.wildlifesafari.net
The North Umpqua Trail follows the scenic river for 79 miles, normally, but chunks are temporarily closed for wildfire rehab, so check maps if you want to trail run or bike. Across from the Steamboat Inn, a half-mile navigable section affords an easy morning stroll alongside friendly banana slugs. Back in Roseburg, at Brix Grill and Chill you’ll find post-workout calories on a big breakfast menu, with omelets, Benedicts, waffles and biscuits and gravy available seven days a week. Also a good idea: Bring an appetite. Metalwork animals hang about in the town of Winston, but the biggest draws are the reallife ones at 600-acre Wildlife Safari. It takes about ninety minutes to drive the park’s 4.5mile roadway, among big cats, zebras, bears and a quizzical ostrich. Since the place opened in 1972, 259 cheetahs have been born there, making it the most-successful breeding program in the western hemisphere. After years of researching climate and soil types, a former doctor and his wife in 1995 took a leap and began planting his favorite grapes—the Spanish grape tempranillo—just outside Winston. Earl and Hilda Jones named their winery Abacela, which means “planting vines” in Castilian. In 1997, Abacela bottled the nation’s first single varietal tempranillo, and they deservedly continue to win awards. With a glass on
74 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2026
their Spanish-themed patio, you’ll feel like giving them an award, too. The winery also has pioneered Pacific Northwest production of malbec, cabernet franc and the Spanish white albariño. Score some sourdough and maybe late lunch at artisan, vegetarian Lighthouse Center Bakery in the community of Umpqua. Nearby, the late Scott Henry in the 1980s invented a vertical wine trellis to help boost grape yields. He never patented the design, because he wanted to share it. The historic downtown of Oakland looks much the way it did in the stagecoach days, except for a surprising population of mannequins, and not only at the museum. A former bank, now the tasting room of Triple Oak Winery, still has patched up concrete where thieves once tried to chisel into the vault from below. In an old mercantile is The Secret Wine Society, with an ornate bar and vintages from around the world. Despite the moniker, the goal isn’t to be secretive, said Robert Douglas, the entrepreneur and vinophile who opened the place. “We are just one and a half minutes from the interstate,” he said. “People ask why we opened in Oakland, and I answer why not.” The naysayers, he said, have it wrong. In the Umpqua, they tend to.
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northwest destination
Northwest Destination
Shells, Sea Breeze and Sunsets
Escape to the Long Beach Peninsula amid oysters, kites and sweeping views written by James Sinks
Long Beach, one of the world’s longest beaches, is a haven for dogs and their humans.
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1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2026
That’s helping a rebound of a native oyster species once harvested by Indigenous Chinook tribes, who called the area Tsako-Te-Hahsh-Eetl, or “place of the red-topped grass.” “We aren’t just sustainable as a farm but also regenerative, bringing the bay back to how it was when settlers arrived,” said Antony Barran, a onetime advertising executive whose family decided to go into the oyster business. And the approach is working. The company will harvest 2 million oysters this year, he said. Next year, it will be 3.5 million. After your tour, order freshly harvested oysters off the barbecue or on the half-shell at their restaurant, on the dock with sweeping bay views. Then, with or without boots, there’s plenty to catch on the 28-mile-long, fingerlike peninsula, which is 1.5 miles across at its widest point. It’s home to six beach communities, a mummy, shellfish-gathering beaches, cranberry bogs and a drivable Pacific beach known for kite-flying and colorful sunsets. And then there’s the food. Sustainable aquaculture, coupled with organic farming of the on-land sort, is giving the region’s culinary scene some hyperlocal panache, said Alli Williams with Washington’s Evergreen Coast, the local visitor bureau. A newish term, “merroirs” help highlight that place matters when it comes to taste and other qualities of seafood, Williams said. (Merroirs mean places in a marine environment, and are akin to terroirs that help describe the soil conditions where wine is cultivated.)
Washington’s Evergreen Coast
AMONG THE MANY memorable vistas on Southwest Washington’s Long Beach Peninsula, you can wander the past and glimpse a hopeful future. Before Washington became a state, the abundance of oysters in shallow Willapa Bay—sheltered on the inland side of the peninsula—created a bustling port where tons of the protein-rich shellfish were loaded onto ships to San Francisco. Creatively, the place was named Oysterville. Over time, however, the rich oyster beds were overharvested and degraded, and the industry slumped. Today, what remains in Oysterville, which is the state’s second-oldest community—with a church, dozens of well-kept houses and a former cannery—are all listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Now, in addition to a self-guided walking tour of the vintage Cape Cod-evoking community, visitors are invited to see how sustainable farmers are bringing the bay back. Past piles of shells, sustainable Oysterville Sea Farms offers popular ninety-minute tours that include a peek inside its nursery, a trip onto muddy flats and lessons in shucking. If you don’t have boots for the watery part of the tour, they’ll lend you some. One of several ecologic-focused farms on the bay but the only one offering tours, the business manages some 300 acres with an old-fashioned, no-dredging, hand-farmed-withoutchemicals method that is both restoring the fragile seabed and allowing native grasses to return.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP A glimpse of the lighthouse at Cape Disappointment State Park. The annual Washington State International Kite Festival is held every August. Oysterville Sea Farms show its beauty amid purpose.
You’ll arrive on the peninsula at the southern end, just across the Astoria-Megler Bridge from Oregon and near the Columbia River harbor town of Ilwaco, in the shadow of the basalt highland of Cape Disappointment. Named by frustrated fur trader John Meares in 1788, the cape is now the centerpiece of a Washington state park that includes 8 miles of hiking trails, rugged beaches, a Lewis and Clark interpretive center and two functioning lighthouses. Travelers can stay at one of them. Park visitors need a Washington state Discover Pass. The park also includes pieces by wellknown artist Maya Lin, which are part of the Confluence Project and celebrate the history and cultures of the Columbia River. As you head north, the largest of the towns on the spit is Long Beach, population 1,800, so it’s not a metropolis. Initially known as Tinkerville before it was incorporated in 1922, it’s home to beach-town chic in the form of cedar-sided buildings, a glamping resort and spa and the World Kite Museum, which hosts an international festival every August. It’s also where a road-spanning sign declares boldly you’ve reached the “World’s Longest Beach.” That’s not exactly right, however. It’s the longest beach peninsula and the eighthlongest beach on the planet. At Marsh’s Free Museum, which is sort of a cross between a Ripley’s Believe It or Not!
and an antique store, you’ll find Jake the Alligator Man, a supposedly mummified oddity that won notoriety in the pages of tabloids like Weekly World News. Also from the annals of the unusual, near the museum is a replica of what was once billed the world’s-largest frying pan, used in the 1930s for a local clam festival. Just the original handle remains, and the rest is fiberglass. Cranberries were harvested by Native Americans for centuries before European settlers arrived, and the area is still home to several working bogs. There’s u-pick at Cranguyma Farms, a cranberry museum and an annual Cranberry Festival every October. For exercise, the 8.2-mile Lewis and Clark Discovery Trail weaves through dunes and forests and is popular with bikers and runners, stretching from Ilwaco to Long Beach. North of Oysterville, the road ends at Leadbetter Point State Park, where you’ll find hiking and bird-watching trails through forests and seagrass, and kayaking on the Willapa Bay Water Trail. No matter how or where you spend your moments, the Pacific beach is nearby and seems to go on forever. With the waves whispering, kindle a bonfire, permitted year-round. Maybe eat a local oyster or two. And as the day ends, if nature cooperates, admire the peninsula’s epic light show as the sun drifts lazily behind the Pacific.
LONG BEACH PENINSULA, WASHINGTON
Photos: Washington’s Evergreen Coast
northwest destination
SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2026
EAT The Depot www.depotrestaurantdining.com Dylan’s Cottage Bakery www.dylanscottagebakery.com MyCovio’s www.mycovios.com Oysterville Sea Farms www.willapawild.com Pickled Fish www.adrifthospitality.com Salt Hotel & Pub www.salt-hotel.com
STAY Adrift Hotel www.adrifthospitality.com Lighthouse Oceanfront Resort www.lighthouseresort.net Oysterville Guesthouse www.airbnb.com Salt Hotel & Pub www.salt-hotel.com Snow Peak Campfield www.snowpeakcampfield.com Sou’wester www.souwesterlodge.com
PLAY Cape Disappointment www.parks.wa.gov Confluence Project www.confluenceproject.org Cranberry Museum www.cranberrymuseum.com Cranguyma Farms www.cranguymafarms.com Lewis and Clark Discovery Trail www.wta.org Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center www.parks.wa.gov Marsh’s Free Museum www.marshsfreemuseum.com Ofuro Spa www.snowpeakcampfield.com Oysterville Sea Farms www.willapawild.com World Kite Museum www.worldkitemuseum.com
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1859 MAPPED
The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1859.
Astoria Seaside
Milton-Freewater
Cannon Beach
Hood River Portland Tillamook Gresham
Pendleton
The Dalles
Joseph La Grande
Maupin Government Camp
Pacific City Lincoln City
Baker City
Salem Newport
Madras
Albany Corvallis
Prineville Sisters
Florence
John Day
Redmond
Ontario
Bend
Eugene Springfield
Sunriver Burns
Oakridge Coos Bay Bandon
Roseburg
Grants Pass
Paisley
Medford Brookings
Jacksonville Ashland
Klamath Falls
Lakeview
Live + Think
Explore
14 Interwoven
62 Thor’s Well
15 Mushroom Festival at Mount Pisgah Arboretum
64 Flux Thermal Lounge
19 Anna’s Table 20 Chelsea Rose Seafood 32 Froelick Gallery
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66 Lucky Duck 68 Toketee Falls 76 Long Beach Peninsula
Until Next Time Sunlight bathes Wy’East Vineyards near Hood River. The vineyard sits at an elevation of 1,700 feet at the base of Mount Hood. photo by Petar Marshall
If you know us, you know Oregon.
Some of the most compelling stories in the Pacific Northwest are happening right in your backyard.
opb.org
Continue for Special Insert
HOT SPRINGS • SPAS • FINE DINING • WORLD-CLASS GOLF • WELLNESS RETREATS • CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING • COASTAL LODGES
Every stay at Soul Community Planet comes with
space to reconnect with each other and ground yourself in nature.
SALISHAN COASTAL LODGE BY SCP HOTELS SALISHAN.COM EXPLORE OFFERS
Reconnect & Rejuvenate at these PNW resorts
W
hen we look in the mirror after a challenging summer, we see someone whose body craves the clean air along forested trails, a line dropped in a cool river, a long walk along a sandy beach, a rejuvenating massage, a collegial round of golf and a forget-everything getaway to one of your favorite resorts, or perhaps a new one. Now is the time to book these experiences. Fires have been extinguished, kids are back at school, summer traffic is gone and your best friends have been waiting to reconnect with you. Here are some of our favorites that get you on the Pacific Ocean, take you into to woods, bring you to pristine fishing holes, set you up for a scenic round of golf and then deposit you in the spa for much-needed relaxation.
Saddle up for a trail ride during your getaway to Black Butte Ranch outside Sisters. (photo: Boone Rodriguez/Black Butte Ranch)
A publication of Statehood Media
Cover: River Lodge at Sunriver Resort
www.1859oregonmagazine.com www.1889mag.com
(photo: Sunriver Resort)
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Oregon SALISHAN COASTAL LODGE Touch the grass and touch the trees at Salishan Coastal Lodge on the central Oregon Coast. South of Lincoln City, Salishan is home to golf and an aerial park, with a thrilling system of zipline through tree canvases ending in eighteen elevated decks along the way. Go with trained aerial guides and leave civilization far below. Biking, hiking and surfing are also on the menu when you’re on the Oregon Coast.
The lodge offers 9 miles of nature trails, or head to Gleneden Beach for surf lessons. Begin each day with Soulful Starts, a complimentary morning meditation session to clear your mind for the adventures ahead. Any hale day in the outdoors should end at The Spa at Salishan, with massages, facials and an outdoor hot tub overlooking Siletz Bay. End your day with a glass of Oregon wine alongside Dungeness crab cakes and Thai green curry at The Attic.
FROM TOP Salishan’s aerial park and ziplines are a thrilling family adventure. Black Butte Ranch is home to two scenic golf courses. (photos, from top: SCP Hotels, Rick Schafer/Black Butte Ranch)
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BLACK BUTTE RANCH In the fall warmth of Central Oregon’s high desert, Black Butte Ranch has many ways to lose yourself in the outdoors. Hiking trails around the ranch are attainable for most visitors. The signature hike up the namesake butte, Black Butte, is a 4-mile out-and-back that gains 1,600 feet and can take two to four hours, depending on if you’re stopping to smell the manzanita. Black Butte has too many ways to lose yourself to list them all, but pickleball, horseback riding, birding, paddling and indoor and outdoor pools are just a few. If you prefer a lot of well-manicured grass, jump on one of the resort’s two eighteen-hole golf courses. Big Meadow is a challenging course designed by Robert Muir Graves. The other course, Glaze Meadow, was redesigned by John Fought and is known for its large greens. Don’t forget to book time for the alternative nineteenth hole—the Spa at Black Butte, located inside the Glaze Meadow Recreation Center. The myriad dining options at Black Butte include: the Lodge, Aspen Lounge, Lakeside Bistro, Robert’s Pub and the General Store. Let Black Butte do the cooking, and relax with a glass of wine with the love of your life.
In the fall warmth of Central Oregon’s high desert, Black Butte Ranch has many ways to lose yourself in the outdoors.
Soak in the Oregon Coast while exploring the nature trails at Salishan Coastal Lodge. (photo: SCP Hotels)
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ELEVATED LEGACY
Snoqualmie Casino & Hotel Redefines the Pacific Northwest Escape High above the misty treetops of the Snoqualmie Valley, Snoqualmie Casino & Hotel offers a refined Pacific Northwest retreat where luxury, culture, and breathtaking natural beauty comes together. Just 30 minutes from Seattle, the AAA Four Diamond destination reflects the vision of the Snoqualmie Indian Tribe while delivering an elevated hospitality experience unlike any other in Washington. Perched along a forested ridge, the property blends modern sophistication with rich cultural heritage, inviting guests to experience exceptional accommodations, award-worthy dining, world-class entertainment, rejuvenating wellness, and thrilling gaming – all surrounded by panoramic Cascade views.
Design Grounded in Heritage
An Elevated Casino Experience
A 210-room hotel, blends contemporary Northwest design with meaningful Snoqualmie cultural influences. Throughout the property, architecture, artwork, and carefully curated design elements celebrate the Tribe’s connection to the land.
Beyond its luxury accommodations, Snoqualmie Casino & Hotel continues to elevate entertainment in the Pacific Northwest. Guests can enjoy nearly 1,800 slot machines and their favorite table games, plus a spacious nonsmoking gaming area. A new 2,000-seat entertainment and convention center brings headline acts, large gatherings, and conferences to the Cascade foothills—cementing Snoqualmie Casino & Hotel’s role as a hub for both leisure and celebration.
Guest rooms feature warm wood finishes, natural stone accents, and floor-to-ceiling windows framing sweeping valley or mountain views. Every detail is thoughtfully designed to create a stay that feels both restorative and distinctly Northwest.
A Spa Inspired by the Earth MoonRise Spa continues that sense of connection, offering wellness experiences inspired by the natural beauty of the Pacific Northwest. Signature treatments incorporate regional botanicals alongside modern therapies, while hydrotherapy amenities, herbal steam rooms, and tranquil relaxation spaces encourage guests to slow down, recharge, and reconnect.
Culinary Northwest, Reimagined The property’s culinary offerings are a celebration of the region’s bounty and boldness, each concept rooted in craft, comfort, and local flavor. At Vista Prime Steaks & Seafood, sweeping valley views complement a menu of expertly prepared cuts and coastal fare, while 12 Moons brings a modern Asian dining experience rich in flavor and artistry. Falls Buffet—the only casino buffet in Washington state—offers an abundant spread for every palate, from classic comfort dishes to global specialties. For casual all-hours eats, a second Drip café now serves artisan coffee and light bites 24/7, perfect for early risers or late-night players.
Hawks Peak Perched above the excitement of the casino floor, Hawks Peak Sports Bar & Grill has quickly become a destination for sports fans year-round. With 66 large-screen televisions, there’s not a bad seat in the house—whether you’re cheering for the Seahawks, Mariners, or your fantasy team. The menu elevates classic pub fare with Northwest flair, while the sky-high display cases are filled with nostalgic sports memorabilia that transport guests through decades of iconic moments. It’s the perfect blend of comfort, camaraderie, and adrenaline-fueled action.
37500 SE North Bend Way, Snoqualmie, WA 98065 snocasino.com | /snocasino
A Destination Worth Discovering The recent achievement of AAA Four Diamond status reflects Snoqualmie Casino & Hotel’s commitment to exceptional service, thoughtful design, and elevated guest experiences. Its recognition earned by only a select group of hotels and restaurants, placing the property among the premier hospitality destinations in the region. Whether visiting for a relaxing getaway, a celebrated dining experience, live entertainment, or an unforgettable weekend in the Cascades, guests will discover a destination where luxury is rooted in culture, inspired by nature, and elevated by genuine hospitality.
Oregon SUNRIVER RESORT Sunriver Resort is where you go for the fully catered getaway. This Central Oregon timeless classic resort appeals to all ages and all seasons, with 40 miles of paved paths for biking and walking. There are adjacent trails that dip into the Deschutes National Forest, crossing tangents of the Deschutes River. Sunriver is also synonymous with its world-class golf. Four courses adorn the 3,300-acre resort, with the most-famed Crosswater Club, designed by Bob Cupp with the Deschutes and Little Deschutes criss-crossing it often. There is pickleball, pools, yoga, spin classes and farm-to-table dining. The Spa at Sunriver Resort is an escape all to itself. Book the treatments you deserve in this serene retreat. Don’t just touch grass at Sunriver, look for it on the surface of other galactic bodies and the Oregon Observatory at Sunriver. Try one of its many high-powered telescopes during a dark, clear high desert night.
LAKE CREEK LODGE A classic Central Oregon getaway is Lake Creek Lodge in the Camp Sherman area. Think comfortable and cozy cabins on one of Oregon’s most pristine
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Sleep creekside at Lake Creek Lodge in the Deschutes National Forest. Curl up by the fireplace in the cozy cabins at Lake Creek Lodge. From its golf courses and spa to its miles of paved trails, Sunriver Resort is a perfect stay for any season. (photos, clockwise from top: Lake Creek Lodge, Lake Creek Lodge, Sunriver Resort)
bodies of water, the Metolius River. This is a spot for anglers to drop a line and feel stress float away. Enjoy the waters of the Metolius, and let your flies drift slowly downriver under the canopy of the Deschutes National
Forest. Hiking and mountain bilking trails are abundant in the surrounding forests, including the Mount Jefferson Wilderness. If you brought kids, take the kids out to the Wizard Falls fish hatchery just 6 miles from Lake
Creek Lodge for a nearby outing. Return home to a luxury cabin with a fireplace to cozy up to in the cool fall mountain nights. Bring your own food to your cabin, or make reservations at the sumptuous Høst Supper Club.
Boone Rodriguez
The Spa at Sunriver Resort is an escape all to itself. Book the treatments you deserve in this serene retreat.
Adventure Awaits
From summer mountain trails to winter powder days, from crisp autumn rides to spring-blooming quiet—
Boone Rodriguez
The Ranch is where every season becomes your next great adventure. Book your year-round stays at BlackButteRanch.com today 866-242-5532 866-242-5532 BlackButteRanch.com
BlackButteRanch.com
Washington
Snoqualmie Casino & Hotel’s outdoor hot tub pairs a serene soak with scenic views. (photo: Snoqualmie Casino & Hotel)
SNOQUALMIE CASINO Let entertainment whisk you away. Find your luck at the tables, and then find serenity at the waterfalls near Snoqualmie Casino & Hotel. Enjoy worldclass gaming as well as live music and comedy for entertainment at Snoqualmie. Pop out to five-star pampering at MoonRise Spa, in the forest bath of the Cascade foothills. Take in a massage, a sauna or the relaxation lounge while you soak in all of the green. You can’t miss the nearby Snoqualmie Falls, which majestically plunge 268 feet to the river below. A short interpretive trail connects the upper and lower falls viewpoints. Return to the modern comfort of the hotel rooms, many of them reconnecting you to nature with views of Mount Si and the Snoqualmie Valley. End your day at Vista, for a good ribeye, lobster mac and cheese and a lovely Washington wine.
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DESTINATION RESORTS 2026
FROM LEFT Relish modern rooms with mountain views at Snoqualmie Casino & Hotel. Find locally sourced dining, a spa and a range of activities for the whole family at Alderbrook Resort & Spa on Hood Canal. (photos, from left: Snoqualmie Casino & Hotel, Alderbrook Resort & Spa)
ALDERBROOK RESORT The quiet and tranquil Alderbrook Resort & Spa on Hood Canal is again quiet and tranquil after a three-year update that included common areas, the restaurant and spa. Another perk was the addition of The Drinkery, a spot for coffee, drinks and snacks. Alderbrook retains the same charming
character it has for more than 100 years, a charm that is no longer dated. Don’t worry, the reading nooks in guest rooms are still there for curling up with a good book. Whether it’s fall or winter, the miles of forested trails are a good place to wander before coming back in from the elements for a massage at the spa and a huckleberry lemondrop cocktail at the restaurant.
Dining at the resort restaurant naturally begins with oysters harvested from the Hood Canal that you’re overlooking from your table. Move on to truffled lobster mac and cheese with PNW mushrooms, paired with a Bodhizafa IPA or a Browne Heritage cabernet sauvignon from the Columbia Valley. Head back to your room, and curl up with a good story in your book nook.
ect You Are Here!
Stay at Historic Lake Creek Lodge • • • • • •
Open all year round 22 historic & luxury cabins Pet friendly cabins for your furry friends Enjoy views of Lake Creek from your cabin Eat at HØST Supper Club & Bar Relax in the hot tub & seasonal pool
541.588.2150 • lakecreeklodge.com YOUR NW TRADITION Escape to the glacier-carved shores of Hood Canal.
Check Out Our Specials
Established 1935
13375 SW FS Rd. 1419 • Camp Sherman, OR
Your Four-Season Getaway, Just Around the Bend Across 3,300 forested acres, Sunriver Resort invites you to experience the best of every season, only 15 minutes south of Bend, Oregon. Tee off on four award-winning golf courses, bike 40+ miles of trails, ski nearby Mt. Bachelor, paddle the Deschutes River or make a splash at the yearround Cove Aquatic Center, and dine at 11+ cafes and restaurants. From first snow to high summer, adventure is always in season at Sunriver Resort.
Plan your stay with specials on guest rooms & suites, vacation rentals and more at SunriverResort.com/Offers