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Mint-Rubbed Rack of Lamb
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volume 68
farm to table
Spice-rubbed rack of lamb with mint pesto, from a recipe with Iranian origins.
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farm to table
Homegrown Chef
Mint Condition written by Thor Erickson photography by Tambi Lane AS A KID, I had no idea that mint was an herb. My first memories of the cooling menthol sensation came from the Andes mints that my aunt kept in a crystal dish on her coffee table. My older sister would stuff them into my pockets—if we were caught, I’d get the blame. When the smuggling was successful, we’d consume every last one on the long ride home. I grew to love the flavoring that I thought was mint. From mint chip ice cream to Doublemint Gum (with hopes that a twin me would appear if I chewed it long enough), I enjoyed the “fresh” flavor of these treats. It wasn’t until I was older that I discovered the fresh herb, after finding a jar of mint jelly in my grandfather’s fridge. “Peanut butter and mint jelly? Yuck!” I exclaimed. My grandpa explained that mint jelly was used with lamb when fresh mint was not available. He showed me the fresh herb growing outside of his house— mind blown. In the early ’80’s, when I began to work in professional kitchens, one of my duties as dishwasher was to pick fresh mint for garnishing dessert plates. One afternoon, as I started harvesting the beautifully fragrant, deep green sprigs, one of the line cooks, Larry, called out the window to pick twice as much, because he needed it for “family meal.” Family meal is what restaurants call the meal that the staff has together before or after nightly service. Larry, a well-disciplined cook with large, dark eyes, was always in charge of this meal. “Tonight, I am cooking the food of my heritage,” he announced. “What is your heritage?” I asked. “Persian,” Larry replied, with an exasperated sigh, a roll of his eyes and a head wobble. He followed up with a whisper: “That’s code for Iranian.” Larry prepared a spice rubbed, braised lamb breast stuffed with roasted shallots and mint leaves. The succulent meat was served with a yogurt sauce studded with lemon peel, steaming hot flatbread from the oven and fresh and dried fruits. I was honored to learn about Larry’s culture through his food. The staff savored the bright notes of the mint and the unctuous, tender meat. So much so that the chef asked Larry to create a lamb and mint entree for the dinner menu. Here is that recipe.
Spice-rubbed Rack of Lamb with Mint Pesto SERVES 2 • 1 8-bone rack of lamb, divided into 2, 4-bone racks • 2 garlic cloves, minced • Kosher salt • 2 tablespoons olive oil FOR THE SPICE RUB • 1 tablespoon paprika • 1 tablespoon kosher salt • 1 teaspoon ground cumin • 1 teaspoon ground coriander • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper • 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon • 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper • 1/2 teaspoon brown sugar FOR THE MINT PESTO • 4 cups lightly packed mint leaves, rinsed and patted dry • 1/3 cup almonds, toasted • 2 medium cloves garlic, peeled and minced • Grated zest of one lemon • Juice from half a lemon • Salt and freshly ground black pepper • 1/3 cup olive oil, plus more if necessary FOR THE SPICE RUB Combine all the spices. (If possible, toast the spices whole and grind them after they have cooled). FOR THE MINT PESTO In a food processor, combine mint, almonds, garlic, juice and zest. Pulse about five or six times. Add oil slowly until the pesto has the texture of peanut butter. Season to taste with salt and pepper. FOR THE LAMB Rub lamb racks with minced garlic, and sprinkle with salt. Generously rub the racks with the spice rub and set aside at room temperature. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Heat a large stainless steel or cast iron pan over medium heat on stove. When pan is hot, add 2 tablespoons of olive oil to the pan. Sear lamb racks on all sides, creating a golden crust. Transfer pan to oven for 15 to 20 minutes until desired doneness. After 15 minutes, remove pan from oven, transfer lamb racks to a plate to rest. Cut the racks into single rib chops and top with a teaspoon of mint pesto. Garnish with a sprig of fresh mint.
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Spiritual Sojourn R A M B L E AC RO S S O R EG O N , R A I S I N G A G L A S S TO T H E S E D E ST I N AT I O N - W O RT H Y C R A F T D I ST I L L E R S written by Vanessa Salvia OREGONIANS HAVE GOOD TASTE. We embrace quality. We are known for our fine food, farmers’ markets, craft beer and exceptional wines for the same reasons as our distilled spirits, made by one of the most active artisan communities of this type in the country. Some of these spots, such as Bendistillery, which has been making Crater Lake vodka and gin since 1996, are spirits pioneers. Others, such as Gompers Distillery, which opened in Redmond in 2019, are embracing an inspirational past while planning for a potent future. “An entrepreneurial spirit and a desire to always try and find a better way of doing things permeates everything Oregon, especially when it comes to locally made, handcrafted products,” said Alan Dietrich, CEO of Bendistillery. A craft distillery road trip lets you taste established and experimental (or in some cases, forgotten) spirits straight from the source and experience Oregon’s beauty along the way. Whether you’re in the verdant hills of wine country, the volcanic moonscapes of Central Oregon, or the purple mountain majesty of northeastern Oregon, each stop is as memorable as the spirits you’ll taste. Take your time while visiting these distilleries. Explore and ask questions. The stories behind the distilleries are as interesting as the libations.
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Rogue Ales & Spirits
Rogue Spirits of Newport has an extensive whiskey enterprise, plus gin, vodka and a killer location for Pacific sunsets.
MAY | JUNE 2021
1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 67
D’oh! Donuts photography by Emily Joan Greene
HOMER SIMPSON once mused, “Donuts. Is there anything they can’t do?” Channel the spirit of Simpson, of Springfield (yes, Oregon), at Portland popup @Mama Bird for Mikiko Mochi Donuts weekend mornings for flavors such as black sesame, marionberry pie-filled or wildcards like yuzu funfetti.
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FROM LEFT Donuts from Mikiko Mochi Donuts in Portland. Mikiko’s Joel Magruder puts donuts on a wire rack to cool.
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