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volume 69
farm to table
“Growing up, I would always tag along with my dad, whether it was just riding in a truck or hoeing or working with a cousin. I always knew I’d come back. I just didn’t know when or how.” — Jacque Duyck Jones, of Duyck Family Farm, on taking over the family business
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MAY || AUGUST JULY JUNE 2021 2021
farm to table
Farm to Table
Back in Blackberries Delicious and fulfilling fruit of hard work on Duyck Family Farm
written by Sophia McDonald photography by Daniel Stark BLACKBERRIES REACH their peak in July, just in time for pie making, ice cream churning, jam jamborees, backyard cocktail mixing and gluttonous fresh eating. While they’re at their best straight from the vine, juices warm from the sun and staining your fingers, they also freeze well, something that makes this Oregon snack available year-round. In fact, the freezer is the first destination for the vast majority of Oregon blackberries. According to the Oregon Raspberry & Blackberry Commission, more than 90 percent of the blackberries grown in the state are frozen within 24 hours of being picked. The frosty fruit goes into bags for consumers and food manufacturers, who use the fruit to add a kiss of Oregon sweetness to their products. More than 200 family farms—many of them multigenerational family properties, nearly all of them in the Willamette Valley—produce these black and blue treasures. One is Jacque Duyck Jones with Duyck Family Farm in Banks. Jones started her career as an elementary school teacher, where she adored teaching kids to read and looked forward to welcoming a new “crop” of students every year. But when her father was ready to retire, she didn’t hesitate to change directions and become the fourth-generation proprietor of the family business. “Growing up, I would always tag along with my dad, whether it was just riding in a truck or hoeing or working with a cousin,” she said. “I always knew I’d come back. I just didn’t know when or how.” For her, farming has always been more than a job. It’s a culture and a way of life. She also sees it as an opportunity to continue to be a role model for young women—in this case, demonstrating that running a farm can be a fulfilling way to make a living. Duyck Family Farm produces multiple crops on its 400 acres, including wheat and grass seed. But Jones said blackberries, which cover about 50 acres, have AT LEFT Blackberries cover about 50 acres at Duyck Family Farm in Banks. The farm grows the Kotata variety.
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FROM TOP Kiteboarding is the way to catch a wave on the Columbia River. (photo: Jen Jones) Cyclists get an insider’s taste of the fruit of the valley on a MountNbarreL tour. Hiyu Wine Farm offers a feast straight from the farm after a sunset walk through the fields.
Kiteboarding When the cool air of Portland meets the warmer air of the Columbia River Gorge, strong winds power the sails of pent-up city folk as well as the energetic little town of Hood River, as prokiteboarder Lindsay McClure calls it. It’s easy to clear your mind when the wind takes your sail and blows your worries away with views of Mount Hood and Mount Adams towering over the gorge. A tidal wave of interest has swelled around the water sports scene here. Fortunately, a less intimidating, entry-level option for soaring high above the waves has surfaced. Wing foiling, with its inflatable, handheld wing, offers easier navigation in a wider variety of wind conditions. If you want the challenge of getting to know the wind and waves better, try kiteboarding, in which the wind plays a bigger role. Many elite and professional 60 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
kiters come from around the world to practice, play and compete here, but there’s plenty of instruction for beginners, too. McClure recommends lessons at Cascade Kiteboarding, where instructors use microphones to give you tips through your helmet as you ride on the water. Once you learn how to harness the wind, you can kiteboard or wing foil nearly anywhere. “It’s a way to use natural energy to get out and explore,” said McClure. After a day on the river, stroll along the rolling gardens and pastures of Hiyu Wine Farm, where cows, chickens and ducks roam. To explore more vineyards and views, hop on a bike, ebike or shuttle with MountNbarreL through the blooming backroads of the valley (see pg. 78). www.mountnbarrel.com/bike-and-wine-tours www.hiyuwinefarm.com www.cascadekiteboarding.com
JULY | AUGUST 2021
Culinary
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Surfing
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“It wakes you up—you just get that alive feeling,” said Lexie Hallahan, who has been empowering women to chase this feeling with her since she started NW Women’s Surf Camps in 2005. Her camps and classes in Seaside create a diverse surfing community no longer dominated by men. In her camps, Hallahan strives to break down barriers that keep women from conquering the waves. Her eight instructors are not only talented Northwest surfers who inspire students of the water to be brave, but also certified lifeguards who spend a considerable amount of time teaching a healthy respect for rip tides.
“You feel more confident, you gain resiliency and you gain understanding of the natural forces,” said Hallahan. “But also, you feel like you’re part of the bigger scheme of things.” To start your journey, visit Clean Line Surf shop to pick up your board and gear before heading to Oswald State Park. Although surf camps are booked, Bodyboard Day Camp for teen and adult women let you connect with other women while taking the first step into the surfing scene by learning on a soft bodyboard. For a day full of surfing adventures with family or friends, take a coed group surfing lesson to study the waves and let them transform you.
ABOVE, AT LEFT Lexie Hallahan’s passion for surfing inspires women to conquer the waves of life at NW Women’s Surf Camps. BELOW Chefs Bob Neroni and Lenore Emery of EVOO offer a dash of expert tips in their twiceweekly culinary classes.
Mastering the art of cooking and gathering around to savor your creation together is an age-old tradition. It’s also an art for you to personalize. Whether roasting chicken in a first-class kitchen or sizzling corn over an open flame, let a professional chef spark some excitement in you to get creative beyond your usual weeknight dinner repertoire. Chef Bob Neroni of EVOO: Cannon Beach, emphasizes that Oregon has more than fourteen micro-seasons. His mantra: “There’s always something new to play with.” You’ll walk away with confidence to invite your friends to the backyard for your own dining experience. At EVOO, you’ll prepare three main courses paired with wine alongside Neroni as he offers tips for choosing the freshest ingredients and flavor combinations. For a deliciously passive experience, every Wednesday in August Neroni will be serving Mexican street-style corn on the cob over an open, wood-fired grill with cojita cheese and crema. What is his favorite dish? “Anything I’m making right now.” www.evoocb.com
www.nwwomenssurfcamps.com
“You feel more confident, you gain resiliency and you gain understanding of the natural forces. But also, you feel like you’re part of the bigger scheme of things.” — Lexie Hallahan, NW Women’s Surf Camps founder
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OREGON COAST MONOLITHS TODAY WE SIMPLY ENJOY the Oregon Coast’s monoliths as stellar scenery. Considering how they came to be, millions of years ago after lava from Eastern Oregon flowed through the Columbia Basin, gives us a deeper appreciation. The giant pillars of earth punctuate the coastal skyline, offering a home for teeming ocean life. Take in these protected marine gardens during a summer romp on the beach and ponder the geological forces, also at play.
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Haystack Rock, Cannon Beach (photo: TravelOregon.com/Joni Kabana)
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