3 minute read
PUR Delight
The purity of the fresh mountain air and the unspoiled nature surrounding Kempinski Hotel Berchtesgaden have helped to shape the culinary style Chef Ulrich Heimann has perfected for PUR, the hotel’s gourmet restaurant. The distinctive cuisine is modern European with subtle regional influences, featuring menus that reflect the turn of each season. The name keeps its promise: PUR’s cuisine is an impressively pure and simple, yet sophisticated pleasure.
Gourmet Restaurant PUR, from the mountains to the kitchen
BY ELAINE SWIFT
When he’s not in the kitchen, you’ll find PUR’s Executive Chef, Ulrich Heimann, hiking, skiing or climbing in the breathtaking mountains that surround Kempinski Hotel Berchtesgaden. One of his favourite spots is Untersberg Mountain in the Berchtesgaden Alps, and he says that climbing Mount Kilimanjaro was one of his most challenging but also rewarding experiences.
When Chef Ulrich Heimann is not in the kitchen, he loves nothing more than walking in the countryside or climbing in the mountains. But his passion for the outdoor life is about more than relaxation. The edible plants, mushrooms and berries he discovers when out walking, give him ideas for his dishes.
"The time I spend in the mountains helps me to keep fit and to maintain a good balance between work and private life,” says the Michelin-starred chef. “Finding solutions to the challenges of mountaineering is what makes it interesting. It’s important to be well prepared – the same things are true of the kitchen of course.
"The peace and calm I find outdoors helps me in this hectic, pressurised profession, where teamwork and cooperation are crucial.
“We have a special way of life here,” he says. “We feel and experience the seasons very intensely, so seasonal products are an important feature of my cooking”.
The restaurant’s philosophy is ‘pure alpine lifestyle’ and the focus is on the product’s authentic, natural flavour: the name PUR fits the concept perfectly. Indeed, the philosophy and Chef Heimann’s passion for the outdoors are intertwined.
“I often get my ideas while I’m out and about in the mountains,” he explains. “I am inspired by the different plants, edible wild herbs, mushrooms and sweet berries I find when out walking, and I try to incorporate them into my dishes”.
Although Chef Heimann uses little or no spice, his dishes are far from plain. He and his team use several different techniques to bring out and strengthen the natural flavour of a product. These include juicing vegetables, stewing them in their own juice or in a sous vide and making aromatic, clear stocks, broths and sauces from them.
“Pigeon breast, onion and foie gras is a good example of a dish in which pairing brings out the natural flavours of the produce,” Chef Heimann explains. “These ingredients go very well together. The sweetness of the pigeon is complemented by the mild, sweet Roscoff onion. A creamy, full-flavoured foie gras completes the dish.”
Pigeon breast and leg with onion and foie gras. The ingredients have been paired to bring out their natural flavours. The sweetness of the succulent pigeon is complemented by mild Roscoff onion, and the dish is completed with a creamy, full-flavoured foie gras.
Where possible, all meat, dairy and fish is locally sourced - Chef Heimann knows each of the suppliers personally. He selects all the products himself and knows exactly where his ingredients come from.
“I have developed my own style, and I try to give all my dishes my personal touch,” he says. “But of course, it’s important to be up to date with what's going on elsewhere in the culinary world and to use that knowledge to enhance your dishes and creations. It’s essential to stay curious and open to new developments.”
When asked to name his favourite dishes on the PUR menu, he laughs and says, “Every dish has to be my favourite dish before it makes it onto the menu at PUR!”
Saddle of venison, Jerusalem artichoke, blackberry. This dish reflects regionality and the autumn season. The venison is basted rather than roasted, and is mildly cured in spruce needles to give a unique, complex flavour which evokes the colours and images of nature.
The redesigned restaurant opened under its new name at the beginning of 2020. Calm colours and a simple design give it an elegant, subtle look, and create a serene, relaxed atmosphere. But it’s food and flavour that are the stars at PUR: the décor, colour, and lighting are designed so they don’t distract from the dishes. The impeccable quality and integrity of the ingredients speak for themselves, allowing the skilful flavour pairings to shine through in these light and flavourful dishes which surprise and delight.
The redesigned restaurant: calm colours and a simple design create a relaxed atmosphere and subtle look that doesn’t detract from the food. One of PUR’s most stunning features is The Box – an innovative private space designed for couples who want to celebrate a special moment.
“I would say it is definitely our team spirit that helps to make PUR special,” says Chef Heimann. “It starts with the creation of our dishes and follows through to the service in the restaurant.
“It’s a great mix of professionalism and knowledge and mutual respect, but we are able to be at ease and laugh together”.
Chef's Table: The best seat in the house is in Chef Heimann’s kitchen! The Chef’s Table is a wonderful opportunity to watch this talented chef as he creates his masterpieces. Guests can look over the Executive Chef’s shoulder as he prepares their meal, which he then serves personally.
