Perfume inspired by silk

Have you ever wondered how a fragrance is created and what defines its individuality? Who are the people behind the perfumes we wear and what special qualities do they need? We spoke to Alienor Massenet and Emilie Coppermann, two ‘noses’. Together they have created Storie di Seta - a line of fragrances for Ferragamo, inspired by the exquisite, beautifully designed silk collections of this iconic fashion house.

Meet the Ferragamo noses

BY ELAINE SWIFT

Born and raised in Paris by Bohemian parents, EMILIE COPPERMANN describes her perfume style as unconventional, playful and full of surprises. A Master Perfumer since 2016, she still feels proud and emotional when a brand announces that a perfume she has created will receive their label. Mother of four, Emilie lives life to the full, balancing a busy work and home life, and she still finds time to play the piano!

ALIENOR MASSENET is often described by those who know her as chic and eccentric. Alienor’s creative and instinctive approach, together with a passion for each of her creations down to the smallest details, ensures the highest-quality and perfectly reflects the spirit of the client’s brand. Her most satisfying moments come when she finally reaches the perfect balance for a perfume after thousands of trials.

What was the starting point for the Storie di Seta fragrance collection and which natural ingredients did you choose?

Alienor Massenet: Over the years, Ferragamo has created a stunning range of silk patterns which are still very popular today. Silk has a specific touch and sound. Like perfume, it’s very sensorial. We took our inspiration from the brightness of the colours, the magic of the motifs, and from a vision of the ancient Silk Road.

We then created a ‘Silk Thread’ - an exclusive accord that unites all four fragrances in the collection and creates a powerful multisensory impact.

An accord is made of different notes, blended together so they lose their individual identity and create a new, unified scent. Among the elements that compose the Storie di Seta fragrances are notes of iris with a hint of lily of the valley, along with Lilybelle® - a new eco-sustainable molecule from perfume manufacturer, Symrise - created from orange peel. Next, we added the softness of leather and a touch of ethically extracted Timut Pepper.

Emilie Coppermann: We had carte blanche on the choice of ingredients. Both Ferragamo and Symrise are committed to sustainability, as well as respecting natural resources, and supporting the communities that produce the ingredients, so this was front of mind.

For example, the Filo di Seta accord uses ingredients that are 62% renewable and 99% biodegradable. With Giungle di Seta, we focused on mandarin, peony and an original crisp note of green pea. Savane di Seta features bitter orange, an essential oil of carrot seeds, and ginger - the result of a cooperation with farmers in Madagascar.

How you get your inspiration? Do you have a particular method?

AM: My inspiration comes from many things: reading books, watching a show, visiting an exhibition, seeing a TV report, talking with different artists, walking around the streets where I live, and yoga too. I often think of my scents in terms of shapes, colours and materials - like architecture or a painting. When I’m creating, I like having my feet level with my hips. So, either I sit on the floor in lotus position, or I put my legs up on a chair. I find it relaxing. I’d love to have a Japanese-style office with a floor-level table!

EC: I get inspiration from everyone and everything around me. When I’m creating, I’m open to all ideas, and to criticism as well - it’s always interesting whether I choose to listen or not. I have infinite sources of inspiration - travel, literature, art and also people! I like to get people around me to smell my creations and exchange ideas with them. I really like successes that are the result of teamwork. I’m especially happy when I succeed in my constant quest to create something that has never been done before - something disruptive and unexpected, yet harmonious of course.

Please can you explain the term ‘olfactory pyramid’ and give us an example?

AM & EC: The olfactory pyramid is a perfume’s structure which is composed of the top, middle and bottom notes. The three levels of the olfactory pyramid correspond to a perfume’s different scents, from the most evanescent to the most persistent. The ingredients don’t all have the same importance or the same longevity. This composition, which varies from one perfume to another, explains why the scent evolves throughout the day.

We’d love to hear a little about you both…

AM: People often describe me as chic and eccentric! I grew up in a family rooted in tradition with a taste for luxury, and respect for age-old rituals. While I’m proud of my background, I’m a liberated and iconoclastic perfumer. I have no trouble expressing my creativity and I give free rein to my instincts and to the emotions I detect in other people. I love contrasting natural raw materials with molecules and captives, and teaming them with the latest discoveries in neuroscience.

EC: “I’ll be where I’m least expected.” This could easily be my mantra given that my creations cultivate a signature that is both delicate and full of surprises – a harmony of opposites and counterintuitive choices of ingredients. I grew up in Paris, raised by hippie parents, and my grandmother. I have a boundless love for my native city and a passion for travelling. I became Master Perfumer at Symrise in 2016 and I’m part of a team that’s one big happy family. On top of this I’m a mother to four children and somehow find time to play the piano. I’m living life at full throttle, and I couldn’t be happier!

Does your personality influence the creation of a perfume?

AM: Of course! Every perfumer has a style and expresses their creativity in different ways. My perfumes are very direct with a readable signature, but they are also facetted with colourful accents to make them come alive. I’d say my style is still evolving each day. For Storie di Seta, we wanted to create a signature that could both reflect our personalities, and at the same time be authentic and true to Ferragamo. The collection reflects the spirit of the House, by using the very best quality, most innovative ingredients to create fragrances that are combinable.

EC: I would define my style as unconventional and playful: I like to create surprising concepts and unexpected associations. However, creating for a fashion house such as Ferragamo means acknowledging and working with its heritage. We are like actors who have to get to the essence of their character. For example, all Ferragamo perfumes have a certain roundness, a caressing smell, and convey a certain joy. We had to bring that across into this collection too. I like how the contrast and duality create a unique story and give the perfume another dimension, a deeper identity.