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SEPTEMBER 2026

Matthew

Jukes 1967-2026

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www.vineyardmagazine.co.uk VINEYARD Kelsey Media, The Granary, Downs Court Yalding Hill, Yalding, Maidstone, Kent, ME18 6AL 01959 541444 EDITORIAL Editor: Rebecca Farmer vineyard.ed@kelsey.co.uk Features: Malcolm Triggs GRAPHIC DESIGN Jo Legg Flair Creative Design jo.legg@flair-design.co.uk ADVERTISING & MARKETING Jamie McGrorty 01303 233883 jamie.mcgrorty@kelsey.co.uk PHOTOGRAPHER Martin Apps www.countrywidephotographic.co.uk MANAGEMENT ]CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER: Steve Kendall DIVISIONAL MANAGING DIRECTOR: Fiona Mercer PUBLISHER: Jamie McGrorty RETAIL DIRECTOR: Steve Brown SUBSCRIPTION MARKETING MANAGER: Claire Aspinall PRINT PRODUCTION MANAGER: Kelly Orriss

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Matthew Jukes 1967-2026

Vineyard and winemaking onsite trials

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Rebrand for Dedham Vale Food fraud costs UK economy up to £2 billion a year

REGULARS 26 Wine matters

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New Isuzu D-Max electric vehicle powers up its one-tonne-plus payload, 3,500kg towing capacity and permanent four-wheel drive for VoltWorx26.

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Distribution in Great Britain: Seymour Distribution Limited 2 East Poultry Avenue, London EC1A 9PT Tel: 020 7429 4000 www.seymour.co.uk

The origins of viticulture

Partnership brings renowned German-engineered range to expanding portfolio

FEATURES 22

A world view

Before Sherry’s rise, there was Fondillón.

Managing harvest risks in 2026

From vineyard to fermentation.

Front cover image: © Andy Jones, Countrywide Photographic

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CONTENTS Features The Vine Post

Every growing season presents unique challenges, but one decision remains pivotal across all vineyards: determining the optimum harvest date.

A leap of faith

In the county of Essex situated in close proximity to the Crouch Valley, the River Blackwater and the Hanningfield Estuary, sits Missing Gate Vineyard.

Chardonnay: the best of the best

At a double blind tasting held at this year’s London Wine Fair, there was a surprise winner at the Icon Tasting: The Greatest Chardonnay Showdown.

Lightening the load

Reducing fatigue during vineyard trimming by hand. Working by hand allows operators to respond to the individual needs of the vines.

ar mer cca F e b

From the editor

“The whole secret of life is to be interested in one thing profoundly and in a thousand things well.” Horace Walpole

It has been difficult to find the words for this column after the sudden death of our friend Matthew Jukes. Our thoughts are with his wife Amelia, his sons Rollo and Victor and his daughters Isadora and Elspeth. There have been so many beautiful tributes to Matthew from across the international wine family, these have made me reflect on the close knit community in which we work and live. As the quote above indicates Matthew was a man with so much to offer, to say he will be missed is simply just not enough. We have a wine community that is able to truly celebrate success and recognise excellence in all its forms. To be able to do this means we work to be the very best that we can but are able to applaud and learn from the achievements of others. This is a unique treasure that we want to hold onto as we navigate what can at times be an uncertain and unfair world. Matthew had this quality – the ability to not just recognise talent but to celebrate and encourage others to fully embrace their potential. He had confidence and he inspired confidence. To make a comparison of ourselves to others should never be our objective but by showing respect to everyone and showing appreciation for others unique abilities we will become better versions of ourselves. This should be our aim – Matthew was a man who spent four decades inspiring others and recognising their achievements, so let us seize every opportunity to help our wine family. Farewell and thank you.

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SEPTEMBER 2026 | WWW.VINEYARDMAGAZINE.CO.UK

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IN MEMORIAM

Matthew Jukes 1967-2026

Matthew Jukes started his career in wine in 1987, working with consultant James Rogers at the Barnes Wine Shop, London. From there, he moved into buying for Bibendum Restaurant & Oyster Bar, London. Matthew regularly lectured and spoke at wine conferences, conducting masterclass tastings all over the world. Made an honorary Australian in 2012, he penned 14 wine books and launched his own award-winning drinks brand that is now sold in 13 countries, but for us he will always be known as our friend and as a champion of the English and Welsh wine industry. Matthew was present at every Vineyard magazine event and, with unsurpassed dedication, wrote a witty and compelling wine column in these pages every month. The magazine’s publisher, Jamie McGrorty, adds his own tribute to Matthew: I first came to know Matthew when we launched Vineyard magazine in 2018. Matthew had been a long-time champion of the growing English and Welsh wine industry and was incredibly supportive of our team. He gave us some of his characteristic confidence at a nerve-racking time. As anyone who has spent any time in Matthew’s company will know, he took every opportunity to be generous. I once told him that I loved Pontet Canet, and the next time we met he had decanted a bottle for me as a surprise. As tributes pour in from around the globe, it is clear that Matthew made that same kind of impact on everyone he met. Matthew wanted to share the joy of the wine experience with everyone, so each wine was a centrepiece, a conversation starter, but it was never long before the laughter flowed and the conversation turned to history, sport, art or even, on occasion, his love of satirical cartoons. When we at Vineyard organised our first tasting event back in 2019, Matthew suggested that he conduct a masterclass, taking guests through six English and Welsh wines that he felt warranted particular acclaim. The event was held in the middle of a field at Plumpton College, with room for just 30 people in our little marquee, and I will always remember Matthew saying that it was the cutest and smallest masterclass he had conducted. Despite that, he treated it as if it were a grand event, providing those 30 guests with his entertaining, humorous and down-toearth commentary on each wine. The way he eulogised over each glass, describing every mouthfeel in his flamboyant way was a delight to behold, and everyone went away feeling they had been part of something special. From 2022 onwards, Matthew used his tasting Masterclass at the Vineyard & Winery show to raise money for the Drinks Trust charity, again showing his generosity. This is my overriding memory of being with Matthew, and it’s one I am sure everyone who met him will share; you felt you had been in the presence of someone who was truly special, totally gifted at his trade and someone who had such a deep passion not just for wine, but for all those he cared about. Just a few days before his death on 6 August 2026, Matthew wrote his last column for Vineyard, which we are publishing in his honour and as a tribute to his talent, warmth and generosity. Our thoughts are with his wife Amelia and with the two sons they shared, Rollo and Victor, as well as his two daughters Isadora and Elspeth. Matthew will be greatly missed by all who knew him. 8

SEPTEMBER 2026 | WWW.VINEYARDMAGAZINE.CO.UK

MATTHEW JUKES 1967-2026 Just a few days before his death on 6 August 2026, Matthew wrote this column for Vineyard, which we are publishing in his honour and as a tribute to his talent, warmth and generosity.

Pushing the envelope I love old phrases and use them often. But I realise I sometimes have no idea of their origins. While preparing this month’s column, I described this trio of wines to my wife as those that push the envelope. But what does this actually mean? The word ‘envelope’ originally referred to the performance limits of aircraft. Regular pilots were instructed to keep to safe speeds and altitudes, but test pilots were encouraged to break new ground, pushing these envelopes.

Lots of English and Welsh wineries stay safely inside the envelope, as they should. But some risk danger and push hard to see what might happen. I expect we don’t hear about the failures! But when pushing hard results in wines like this month’s collection, these brave souls are worth celebrating. So, let’s raise a glass to those who have pushed the envelope so deliciously this month. I am so pleased that they have driven their wines past what might be commonly accepted to break new ground.

2020 The Weyborne, Wayward No.1, Limited Release Demi-Sec, West Sussex £52.80, reduced to £49.99 each for six bottles www.weyborne.com

I have no idea when this wine will be released, and I have only recently seen a tech sheet, but in one fell swoop, I am confident that I can declare it England’s finest new Demi-Sec creation! And I for one would not drink it with pudding, preferring to serve it as the ultimate aperitif, with its louche flavours and ultra-alluring palate. Thank goodness the exuberance is kept in place by knickersnapping acidity. Hand-picked, whole-bunch pressed, stainless steel-fermented and with nine months’ élévage on the lees in tank, it then

spent five years of ageing post-secondary fermentation in bottle. The blend is a bracing 86% Chardonnay and 14% Pinot Noir, and it is rewarded for its efforts with 33g/L of residual sugar following its hearty dosage. The touch of genius is that the residual sugar heartbeat within the glass comes across the palate as pure decadence instead of actual sweetness. It is utterly delectable, and I am wishing I had a glass beside me as I write this piece. Do not miss out, because it offers a completely different take on this rare style of wine to the acknowledged greats from say Nyetimber, Exton Park and Ambriel.

2025 Four Daughters, Riesling, Kent £26.00 www.fourdaughters.co.uk

Only 750 bottles of this wine were made, so it is in very limited supply. Interestingly, it is in fact an 85% Riesling, 15% Chardonnay blend, and this unusual amalgam has worked a treat. It is far and away the finest dry English Riesling I have ever tasted. That said, I have not enjoyed very many. But that is beside the point, because it really is a world-class creation.

It has all the élan of a succulent Eden Valley or Clare Valley dry Riesling, and I am still reeling that it is made here! But how did we get to this point? Legend has it that the Four Daughters story began in Leicester, when back in 1943, Great Grandpa Baxter contracted tuberculosis, caused by poor air quality. His inspired doctor prescribed the rare but free medicine, ‘fresh air’, and this resulted in the family moving to Kent, where they bought 70 acres of land, and a new farming story began. Today the farm spans 200 acres, and 45 were planted with vines five years ago. I wonder if they thought that, even in their wildest dreams, Lucy, Amy, Emma and Sophie would make this ground-breaking, delicious, lime-zest-tinged Riesling.

2025 Williams Family Wines, Pinot Noir Précoce £28.50 www.williamsfamilywines.com

If there were an award for best ‘newcomer’, then Williams Family Wines would romp home with the gong. While their 2025 Williams Bacchus does not break too much new ground for this style, it is certainly delicious. 2025 Williams Pinot Gris starts to nudge the envelope, with 9g/L residual sugar on board, which gives it an off-dry, near-Alsatian feel, but with a much perkier demeanour; the wine that pushes the category with all its might is my featured PNP. It does a remarkable feat of culinary brinkmanship by utilising 45% English oak, 45% French oak, and 10% stainless steel to create a wine of elemental and brazenly unique appeal. The fruit hails from Herefordshire, where warm, steep slopes and nutrient-rich red soils

help to build an impressively toothsome wine, with bold fruit notes and a velvety texture. But the six months spent in English and French oak do something magical to the recipe, imbuing a rare sense of invisible patriotism, while cradling the contents gently and not overstepping the mark. You are left with a wine that sits outside the traditional box of Pinot Noir, and its unpredictable journeyman cousin Précoce, while delivering a different side to the latter thanks to its clever choice of fruit and utterly inspirational carpentry. I take my hat off to all this month’s vigorous envelope pushers. The more the merrier, and to think that Williams is both a new arrival on the wine scene and a member of this collective says more than mere words. SEPTEMBER 2026 | VINEYARD

NEWS

The origins of viticulture

Traces of the origins of viticulture in the Chianti region found in the woodlands of Badia a Coltibuono. New research conducted in the woodlands of Badia a Coltibuono, within the municipality of Gaiole in Chianti, is reshaping the history of viticulture in the Chianti area. Evidence uncovered at the Etruscan-Roman archaeological site of Cetamura indicates that grapevines were already present there more than 2,300 years ago. For more than fifty years, archaeologists from Florida State University, led by Nancy de Grummond, have been excavating the site. Between 2012 and 2016, numerous exceptionally wellpreserved grape seeds were recovered from the deepest layers of Etruscan wells. These seeds were likely deposited as part of votive rituals. The discovery pushes documented evidence of local viticulture back at least to the third century BCE. Genetic analyses conducted by University of York, with the support of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico, are yielding particularly significant

results. The studies have shown that the same white grape variety was cultivated and used for winemaking over several consecutive centuries, from the Etruscan period through the Roman era. The findings also confirm the use of vegetative propagation, the same technique still employed today to reproduce grapevines through cuttings. This provides evidence of advanced viticultural knowledge already in existence during Etruscan times. The analyses further revealed a clear predominance of white grape varieties, although some red grape varieties were also present. The discovery holds special significance for the territory of Gaiole in Chianti and for its archaeological museum, Chianti Origo, where the artefacts recovered from the excavations are preserved. The Mayor of Gaiole in Chianti has highlighted the cultural and historical importance of this research, which strengthens the connection between the area and a winemaking tradition spanning millennia.

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The Stucchi Prinetti Family, owners of the woodlands of Badia a Coltibuono and longstanding supporters of the excavations, have likewise emphasized the importance of findings that link the estate’s history to the earliest roots of Chianti viticulture. This heritage was preserved through the centuries by the Vallombrosan Order and has endured to the present day through a form of viticulture deeply rooted in the local landscape. Should ongoing research confirm a genetic relationship between the ancient grape variety identified at Cetamura and grape varieties that still exist today, the implications would be of international significance. Badia a Coltibuono could become the centre of a unique project: bringing back to life the grapevine that grew on these hills more than two thousand years ago, long before the rise of Sangiovese as the defining grape of the region. This would represent far more than the reconstruction of a chapter of history. It would offer an opportunity to restore a part of Chianti’s deepest identity, transforming an extraordinary archaeological discovery into a tangible viticultural renaissance. In this endeavour, Badia a Coltibuono would not merely serve as the custodian of the memory of these lands, but as a leading force in shaping their future.

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NEWS

Rebrand for Dedham Vale as English wine enters a new era As English wine moves from emerging category to established premium player, brand strategy and design agency Contrast has unveiled a new identity for Dedham Vale, creating a distinctive positioning rooted in the landscape that inspired some of John Constable’s most celebrated works. Acquired by new owners last year, the established Essex vineyard recognised an opportunity to redefine its brand as the English wine category continues to evolve. Contrast was appointed to develop a strategic positioning and visual identity that would better reflect the quality of its wines while differentiating the business in an increasingly competitive market. The rebrand forms part of the vineyard’s long-term growth ambitions, providing a platform for an expanding portfolio, new audiences and future innovation. Research into the English wine market revealed a category often divided between heritage-led wineries steeped in traditional British symbolism and smaller challenger brands embracing a more disruptive, craft aesthetic. At the same time, younger consumers are increasingly discovering English wine through wine tourism, countryside escapes and premium hospitality experiences, creating an opportunity for Dedham Vale to occupy a distinctive middle ground – celebrating its heritage through a contemporary lens. The strategic positioning informed every aspect of the redesign. The vineyard has been renamed simply Dedham Vale, creating a broader platform that can evolve alongside the business as it grows. At the heart of the identity sits a new willow tree marque inspired by a central, historic willow overlooking the vineyard’s lake, while the wider visual identity draws on the changing skies, natural textures and the light that define the landscape. Inspired by Constable’s fascination with the skies above Dedham Vale, subtle celestial motifs feature throughout the brand, celebrating the relationship between the landscape and creativity in the area. 14

The rebrand also shaped the vineyard’s product portfolio, with Contrast naming the estate’s rosé The Painter’s Light in tribute to the distinctive quality of light that inspired Constable’s work. Together with a colour palette influenced by the soft hues captured in his paintings, the identity celebrates the connection between nature, artistry and winemaking, reinterpreting Dedham Vale’s heritage for today’s consumer. Claudette Munroe, Managing Director at Contrast, said: “English wine has evolved dramatically over the last decade. As the category matures, consumers aren’t simply buying a bottle of wine – they’re buying into a story, an experience and a sense of place. “We realised we weren’t creating another winery brand; we were creating a brand for one of England’s most inspiring landscapes. The connection between Dedham Vale and Constable wasn’t something to invent, it was something to uncover. That thinking shaped everything from the willow tree marque to the rosé, The Painter’s Light, creating an identity that is authentic to the place and capable of growing with the business.” Laurissa Kuligowski, Owner at Dedham Vale, said: “We knew the quality of our wines deserved a brand that reflected both our heritage and our ambitions. Contrast helped us uncover a story that had always existed within the landscape around us and translate it into an identity that feels distinctive, authentic and contemporary. “As English wine continues to attract new audiences, the new brand gives us a platform to stand apart while remaining true to who we are. We’re excited for the next chapter of Dedham Vale as we continue to grow our portfolio and introduce more people to our wines.” The new identity has been rolled out across the vineyard’s packaging, website and customer experience, establishing a longterm platform for the business as it continues to expand its range, including the launch of its first red wine next year.

SEPTEMBER 2026 | WWW.VINEYARDMAGAZINE.CO.UK

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Given the stricken nature of the wine industry, Vinewatch are making the following offer for two lucky vineyards: One complete system with gateway, 3 Ladybirds, an 8 in 1 soil sensor and a wet leaf sensor free of charge for 8 months. This will give you early warning on powdery and downy mildew now and frost alerts next year. After the 8 months are over you will charged £30 pcm going forward. To be in with a chance, give us a call.

• Disease prediction and fungal infection risk assessment • Irrigation timing based on canopy wetness duration • Frost monitoring and protection systems • Transpiration and stress monitoring

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SEPTEMBER 2026 | VINEYARD

NEWS

Food fraud costs UK economy up to £2 billion a year Researchers warn that greater investment in tackling the crime could deliver significant returns while protecting consumers and legitimate businesses. Food fraud is costing the UK economy up to £2 billion every year, according to the first study to calculate its full economic impact. The research, from the University of Portsmouth, estimates that food fraud costs between £400 million and £2 billion annually, making it one of the country’s most expensive forms of economic crime. The study examines offences including food substitution, false labelling and document fraud, where products are deliberately misrepresented for financial gain. Published in the Journal of Economic Criminology the research introduces a new way of measuring the cost of food fraud by looking at entire criminal operations rather than individual incidents. It also captures the wider impact on the legitimate food industry, including the loss of sales when fraudulent products displace genuine ones. The researchers found that around threequarters of the total economic cost comes from the direct replacement of legitimate products with fraudulent alternatives, such as the marketing of smoked salmon as Scottish despite being sourced in Norway. Although consumers may never realise they have been deceived, the consequences can include financial losses for businesses, damage to confidence in food supply chains and, in some cases, serious risks to public health for example fake spirits that contain industrial chemicals. Dr David Shepherd, from the School of Criminology and Criminal Justice at the University of Portsmouth, said: “Food fraud is often perceived as a niche issue, but our findings show it has a substantial economic impact on the UK. It is not just about consumers paying for something that is not what it claims to be. It undermines honest businesses, distorts markets and, in the most serious cases, puts people’s health at risk. “By measuring the full economic cost, we can better understand the scale of the 16

problem and make stronger evidencebased decisions about where enforcement and prevention efforts should be focused.” Unlike many other forms of fraud, the researchers suggest food fraud remains comparatively uncommon because of the extensive checks built into the UK’s food supply chains. They say that collaboration between regulators, manufacturers, retailers and certification bodies has created multiple layers of quality assurance that make it much harder for rogue traders to operate. Professor Lisa Jack, School of Accounting, Economics and Finance at the University of Portsmouth, said: “One of the most encouraging findings from this research is that the UK’s food industry has developed systems that make fraud significantly more difficult than in many other sectors. Businesses, regulators and assurance schemes work together to create barriers that prevent fraudulent products entering legitimate markets. “However, this is not a reason for complacency. Continued investment in prevention and enforcement is essential if we are to maintain public confidence in the food we buy and protect businesses that play by the rules.” The study also suggests that investing in food fraud investigations could generate significant economic benefits. Based on the cases analysed, the researchers estimate that prosecutions may deliver a return on investment of more than 400%, indicating that stronger enforcement could pay for itself while reducing harm across the food system. The findings provide policymakers with the first evidence-based estimate of the true cost of food fraud in the UK and offer a framework that can be refined as better data becomes available. The researchers hope this will help governments and industry to target resources more effectively and strengthen the resilience of food supply chains against organised criminal activity.

SEPTEMBER 2026 | WWW.VINEYARDMAGAZINE.CO.UK

On-site trials

Across the globe, in all wine regions, it is standard practise for vineyard managers and winemakers to conduct their own on-site vineyard/winemaking trials. Time and labour constraints, experimental design, project and data management issues can all impact the progress and success of the trials. Outsourcing aspects of trials such as identifying the type of vineyard/juice/wine data to collect, producing data collection protocols, data analysis, presentation and the interpretation of results in the context of vines, wine (flavour, aroma) and aging ability is now possible with support from VitiVino Research. Applied viticulture and oenology on-site trials are invaluable for assessing product quality parameters including wine organoleptic properties, and chemical/microbial analysis. In the UK we have the ADOPT grants that support collaborative farmer-led, on-farm trials or

Belinda Kemp, founder of VitiVino Research, outlines the benefits of onsite trials at the vineyard and in the winery. experiments to generate, test and demonstrate innovative solutions and practices to farming challenges. However, not every vineyard-based grant application submitted is likely to be successful. To assist with guiding in-house research and development, VitiVino can provide vineyard and winemaking technical reports and reviews focused on topics specific to your business needs (e.g. an international research update about a specific grape variety or wine style). These reports comprise the current available knowledge on a topic, identifies new techniques and equipment, and can identify growth opportunities to provide a competitive edge to your business. VitiVino plans to deliver masterclasses, webinars and workshops as well as custom

staff training including phenolic management in low and high tannin varieties, and international sparkling wine research updates.

Microbiome analyses

VitiVino are exploring options to provide a complete microbiome analyses service including sampling protocols and final report. This will be for soil, juice and ferments and profile bacterial and fungal (including yeasts) communities from DNA sequencing. If you are interested in juice/ wine microbiome analyses, please contact Belinda@vitivino.co.uk to explore this microbial terroir service. To learn more about VitiVino: DESKTOP www.vitivino.co.uk

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Determining the optimum harvest date

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DESKTOP www.vine-works.com ENVELOPE sales@vine-works.com phone-alt 01273 891777

Harvest readiness starts with effective maturity monitoring. Every growing season presents unique challenges, but one decision remains pivotal across all vineyards: determining the optimum harvest date. With seasonal variability becoming increasingly common, both between vineyards and within individual vineyard blocks, maturity monitoring has become more important than ever. It has evolved from a routine laboratory exercise into a critical management tool that underpins fruit quality, winery efficiency and, ultimately, wine style.

Beyond sugar levels

While sugar accumulation is often the most visible indicator of ripening, harvest decisions based solely on °Brix can compromise fruit quality. Effective maturity assessment requires a holistic understanding of berry development, integrating analytical measurements with sensory evaluation and knowledge of vineyard variability.

Representative sampling

Sampling should commence several weeks before the expected harvest date and increase in frequency as ripening accelerates. Representative sampling is essential. Bunches should be collected randomly throughout the block, accounting for differences in row orientation, canopy position, vine vigour and soil variability. Consistent sampling techniques ensure that trends observed over time accurately reflect vineyard development rather than sampling bias. Routine laboratory analysis focuses on three core parameters: soluble solids (°Brix), titratable acidity (TA) and pH. Together these measurements provide an indication of the balance between sugar accumulation and acid degradation. However, their interpretation depends on the intended wine style. Fruit destined for sparkling wine

Refractometer reading in a vineyard during harvest Photo: Daria Szotek, 2024

generally benefits from higher natural acidity and lower sugar levels, while premium red wine production often requires extended ripening to achieve flavour and tannin development. Phenolic maturity has become an equally important consideration, particularly for red cultivars. Skin tannins, seed lignification and anthocyanin development influence colour stability, mouthfeel and ageing potential. Berry tasting remains an invaluable complement to laboratory analysis, allowing growers and winemakers to assess flavour intensity, seed maturity, skin texture and the reduction of green, herbaceous characters that are not captured by chemical measurements alone.

Weather and technology

Weather conditions during the final weeks before harvest often dictate management decisions. Heat events can accelerate sugar accumulation while delaying flavour development, creating a disconnect between technological and physiological maturity. Conversely, rainfall may dilute berry composition, increase berry splitting or elevate disease pressure. Frequent maturity assessments enable vineyard managers to respond quickly as conditions change, balancing fruit quality against seasonal risk. Advances in vineyard technology continue to improve harvest decision-making. Portable refractometers, handheld pH meters and near-infrared (NIR) instruments provide rapid field measurements, while precision viticulture tools, yield mapping and remote sensing help identify spatial variability within vineyard blocks. These technologies are increasingly being integrated with weather forecasts and winery logistics to optimise harvest scheduling.

Vineyard experience

Despite these advances, maturity monitoring remains both a science and an art. Analytical data provide objective benchmarks, but they should never replace experienced vineyard observation. Vine balance, canopy condition, berry flavour, weather forecasts and winery capacity all contribute to determining the optimal picking window. As climate variability continues to challenge UK viticulture and the wine styles made here broaden, the importance of comprehensive maturity monitoring will only increase. Growers who combine robust sampling protocols with sound analytical data and practical vineyard experience are best positioned to deliver fruit that meets both production targets and winemaking objectives. In an environment where harvest timing can determine wine quality, maturity analysis remains one of the most valuable tools available to the modern vineyard manager. At VineWorks, our advice is built on experience, shaped by science and focused on helping vineyards thrive – one vine at a time.

Collective voice Aberystwyth University’s Institute for Biological, Environmental and Rural Sciences (IBERS) has been chosen to join a major group serving as the collective voice of more than 40 science and research organisations in the UK. A first of its kind collective for the UK, the National Research Organisations (NRO) brings together more than 100 leaders from government, research, academia, industry and funding organisations, marking a new chapter for the UK's research landscape. The member organisations represent a specialist national research capability dedicated to advancing science that benefits people, communities, the economy, the environment and national resilience. Professor Iain Donnison, Head of IBERS, which is part of Aberystwyth University and strategically funded by the UKRI Biotechnology and Biological Sciences Research Council, said: "Research at IBERS builds on more than a century of plant breeding and crop science at Aberystwyth. Our resilient crop varieties are helping to create more sustainable farming systems, enhance food security and support low-carbon environmental ambitions. “We are proud to be part of the NRO and look forward to continue working with partners across the UK to ensure research and innovation deliver real benefits for people, the economy and society." The NRO Group was established in response to growing recognition that the UK research landscape would benefit from stronger strategic alignment, clearer governance and greater visibility of the specialism and capabilities provided by national research organisations. Its priorities include delivering measurable impact against Government priorities, aligning research with national needs, securing sustainable investment in research infrastructure and capability, fostering innovation and skills, and strengthening the UK's global scientific leadership. Professor Sir Ian Chapman, Chief Executive of UK Research and Innovation, said: "Delivering UKRI's mission to advance knowledge, improve lives and drive growth requires the foundational capabilities provided by national research organisations, including our Centres, Institutes, Catapults and Units. I look forward to working in partnership with the National Research Organisation group as we shape the UK’s future.” Science Minister Lord Patrick Vallance said: "The UK's strength in science and innovation depends on collaboration across our research ecosystem. National research organisations play a vital role in generating the knowledge, infrastructure and expertise that support economic growth, improve lives and help address the major challenges facing the country. “I welcome the launch of the National Research Organisations Group and look forward to working with its members to maximise the impact of UK science and research."

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25 NOVEMBER 2026: EXHIBITOR SPOTLIGHT

2026

Optimising disease management SAN Agrow, sponsors of the seminars at this year’s Vineyard & Winery Show, explain why prevention makes the difference. Within the expanding UK wine sector, growers are increasingly seeking reliable, yet sustainable approaches to manage key diseases, while maintaining fruit quality and vineyard performance. SAN Agrow supports this transition with crop protection products for modern viticulture. With decades of experience, SAN Agrow develops biological solutions for specialty crops worldwide, combining research with practical field expertise. Through close technical engagement across the value chain, these products integrate seamlessly into existing crop protection programmes while supporting residue reduction and long-term sustainability. The UK soft and top fruit sector in

particular have benefitted from these crop protection programmes with significant successes achieved; driven by a strong demand for innovative, effective and sustainable solutions. This trend is reflected in the UK wine industry, where maintaining grape quality under variable weather conditions remains a key priority. Botector, a microbial fungicide suitable for use in organic farming, has proven a strong fit in UK viticulture. Botector provides reliable protection against Botrytis, one of the most critical fungal threats in UK grape production. Applied preventatively at key growth stages such as flowering, bunch, closure, veraison and pre-harvest, Botector forms

a UV-tolerant, living barrier on the grape surface that outcompetes pathogens and responds to environmental cues such as rainfall by increasing its active population. This maximises protection ahead of rising disease pressure and effectively prevents the development of diseases like bunch rot. Its mode of action ensures reliable disease control without leaving residues or impacting the vinification process, supporting the production of high-quality wines. SAN Agrow is proud to sponsor the seminar programme at this year’s Vineyard & Winery Show held on the 25 November at Kent Showground, providing a platform for knowledge exchange and the latest developments in viticulture. Supporting these seminars reflects SAN Agrow’s commitment to the industry, sharing technical expertise that enables informed crop protection decisions while safeguarding both crop quality and economic performance. Further information can be found via Agrii representatives or at www.san-agrow.com

Scan to book your free ticket attend 20 26

2026

Growth fuelled by £12.8m of existing investment New headline sponsor at the Vineyard & Winery Show for 2026, Itasca Group accelerates business fuelled by £12.8m of existing investment, strengthening leadership and expanding the English wine companies future capability. Marking a decisive next phase Itasca Group has announced a major step forward in its growth strategy, supported by £12.8 million raised from investors so far and a series of operational, commercial and leadership developments designed to strengthen its role in the fast-growing English wine industry. At a defining moment for English wine, Itasca is building an increased professional, commercially focused and future-ready business. The Group is investing in production capability, expanding grower partnerships, developing its own-brand portfolio and creating new hospitality experiences that bring the quality and character of English wine to life. “This is a pivotal moment for Itasca Group,” said Malcolm Walker, Founder of Itasca Group. “We have the backing, talent and ambition to build a stronger business and make a meaningful contribution to the future of English wine. Our focus is simple: better wine, better partnerships and continuous improvement every day.”

Strengthened leadership for the next phase of growth

As part of its transformation, Itasca has strengthened its board with the appointment of two experienced commercial leaders: James Lambert as Commercial Director and Chris Connor as Brand and Marketing Director. Their appointments reinforce the Group’s commitment to professional, commercial discipline and customer-led growth.

Winemaking talent

Winemakers Annamarie Fourie and Dene Louw bring international experience, technical depth and award-recognised expertise to the business. Annamarie Fourie was one of six finalists in the 2023 Diners Club Winemaker Awards for the Holden Manz Syrah Reserve 2018. During her decade at Holden Manz, the winery won numerous Top 100, Double Platinum and Double Gold awards at the National Wine Challenge and achieved its first five-star ratings from John Platter in 2021. Dene Louw, originally from South Africa, holds a BSc in Viticulture and Oenology from Stellenbosch University and has gained premium winery experience in South Africa, France and England. She contributes to wine style development, harvest management and continuous quality improvement.

Grower partnerships and customer success

Itasca combines contract winemaking expertise with its own vineyard and product development experience, giving the business a valuable understanding of both the grower and producer journey.

Recent customer wines produced with Itasca’s support have gained recognition at leading industry awards, including gold, silver and bronze medals at Wine GB Awards 2025 and Decanter 2025.

Own brand and international opportunity

Itasca is also developing an own-brand portfolio designed to meet changing consumer needs while showcasing the quality, character and confidence of English wine. The portfolio is being shaped for both domestic and international markets. In April, Itasca exhibited two new products at Pro-Wine Singapore as part of its international growth plans. The wines received strong praise and purchase intent from wholesalers, distributors and outlet owners, with feedback highlighting both product quality and presentation.

Hospitality: creating a destination for English wine

It is the intention that Cranborne Lodge becomes a centre of excellence for wine and a destination for hospitality, events and immersive brand experiences. Visitors will be able to stay, enjoy wine and food pairings, and gain a deeper understanding of Itasca’s wine and the craft behind them. The venue hosts weddings, events, winery tours and dining experiences with renowned chefs, placing wine at the heart of every visit, celebration and occasion.

New Essex facility to increase capacity

To meet customer needs and support continued expansion, Itasca has built a new state-of-the-art facility in Essex that will allow the Group to process a further 1,400 tons of fruit. SEPTEMBER 2026 | VINEYARD

A WORLD VIEW

Before Sherry’s rise, there was Fondillón

Even though British consumption of Sherry has declined significantly over the past few decades, largely due to changing consumer preferences and increases in UK alcohol duty, the country continues to be one of its most important export markets. The UK consistently ranks among the top three destinations for this category, alongside the Netherlands and Germany, reflecting Northern Europe’s affinity for oxidative and fortified wine styles. According to the Consejo Regulador de Jerez, around 20 to 30 million bottles of Sherry are exported globally each year, with the UK alone accounting for roughly a quarter of that volume. More recently, the category has shown signs of premiumisation, with renewed interest in aged sherries and niche fortified styles. Younger consumers, particularly aged 25 to 40, are increasingly interested in oxidative, heritage-driven, and low-intervention production, contributing to a clear revival in the mid-2020s. Yet, despite this renewed

curiosity, very few consumers or even enthusiasts are familiar with Fondillón. At a time when British drinkers are rediscovering the complexity of aged oxidative wines, one of Europe’s oldest and once most prestigious wine styles is still not widely recognised. Imagine a red wine with naturally high alcohol, sweet or semi-sweet with no added sugars, unfortified and aged for decades in ancient barrels, with the oxidative complexity of an Oloroso, but shaped by the Mediterranean rather than the cellar traditions of Andalusia. Fondillón, produced exclusively in the Alicante region of Spain, is a historic, noble wine once enjoyed by the world’s leading royal houses and known as the favourite of Queen Elizabeth I. Its defining characteristics under the Alicante DO are that it is made from 100% Monastrell, often left to overripen or partially raisin on the vine to concentrate their natural sugars, aged for a minimum of 10 years in old barrels, and reaching at least 16% alcohol naturally. Unlike Sherry styles, it is never fortified and achieves its high alcohol content entirely through

A ndr ea

tiveros Flores On

As British drinkers rediscover the complexity of oxidative wines, Alicante’s historic Fondillón is finding renewed relevance today as Andrea Ontiveros Flores, a sommelier and marketing & communications specialist from Alicante, Spain finds out.

natural fermentation of concentrated grapes. Owing to its prolonged ageing, it undergoes an oxidative process, gradually transitioning from deep red to amber or mahogany in colour, while developing complex notes of figs, dates, old leather and roasted nuts. It is aged for long periods in large, old oak barrels, typically following a vintage system or a simplified version of a traditional solera method used in Jerez de la Frontera, where younger wines are blended into much older “mother” barrels. Fondillón is considered rare due to its limited production compared to global Sherry volumes, but it is equally prestigious historically. If Sherry reflects a mastery of system, Fondillón is a mastery of time. Alicante’s hidden gem belongs to an older tradition of naturally concentrated Mediterranean wines, rooted in 15th-century “Greek-style” production, while Sherry

represents a later, more systematised evolution that achieved global commercial success. Often sweet and highly concentrated, these luxury wines could endure long sea voyages without losing quality, and were widely consumed in Northern Europe, becoming favourites among European monarchies of the 16th and 17th centuries. Sherry shares a centuries-old trade history with Britain. The wine from the Jerez region became a staple of British culture in the 16th century and has remained a cornerstone of global trade, sustained by export systems and long-standing British commercial networks. Today, bodegas are successfully promoting premium, bone-dry styles such as Fino and Manzanilla for contemporary consumption alongside tapas. In contrast, Fondillón followed a very different path, declining due to phylloxera, shifting consumer tastes, and, above all, a loss of

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production continuity. While Sherry became Britain’s fortified wine, Fondillón gradually disappeared from the conversation, despite once being served in Europe’s royal courts. Fortunately, a new generation of producers is reviving one of Spain’s oldest wines. Through an enormous effort to rescue time by working with untouched barrels more than 60 years old, they are recovering these forgotten casks as living history. They create a sense of generational continuity while remaining faithful to traditional Alicante winemaking. This is more about preservation than reinvention, creating a kind of wine archaeology. One renowned producer helping to lead this revival is Colección de Toneles Centenarios, which I visited in Villena, Alicante, and had the opportunity to taste its famous Fondillón “Luis XIV,” named in honour of King Louis XIV of France, who was

particularly fond of this style. Located in Alto Vinalopó, their ethos is based on deep respect for historic Alicante wines. Their production is low-intervention and sustainable, with a biodynamic focus. They achieve naturally high alcohol thanks to the region’s dry summers and high grape concentration from their old vineyards in the village of Cañada. They produce a wide range of styles, including still reds, orange wines, and a unique white expression aged under velo de flor in clay vessels. However, their most prestigious label is Fondillón Luis XIV, aged for over 50 years and awarded 96 Parker points. It is a single-barrel Monastrell wine sourced from centuries-old casks, praised for its extreme complexity, concentration, and deep notes of dried figs and dates. They also produce Luis XIV 25-year-old, which holds 93 Parker points. It shows a dense body, vibrant << acidity, and well-balanced sweetness.

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David Carbonell The Colección de Toneles Centenarios was created through a unique partnership with the barrel room of the Ferrero family, an Alicante wine producer with 25 ageing barrels that ceased activity in the 1960s and were carefully recovered in 2015 by David Carbonell, the head winemaker. The exceptional preservation conditions in the barrel room has allowed a collection of very old soleras – unchanged since the late 19th and early 20th centuries – to survive to this day. Fondillón is also produced by other specialised wineries in the region, such as Bodegas Monóvar, with vintages from 1996; Primitivo Quiles, a historic estate celebrated for its traditional aging methods; and Bodegas Francisco Gómez, which produces highly acclaimed Fondillón using organic and biodynamic Monastrell. This renewed interest in unfamiliar oxidative wines is gradually gaining attention in the UK, as British consumers increasingly value provenance, authenticity, and story-driven wines, with particular interest in naturally sweet and unfortified oxidative styles. After several marketing, branding, and trade efforts, Fondillón producers such as “Luis XIV” have begun to gain traction, achieving sold-out pre-shipments to the UK, generating strong interest in volume orders and establishing their position in the market. This release from Colección de Toneles Centenarios has also been featured in the British press, including Dreyfus Ashby, importers of fine wine, and by Sarah Jane Evans MW, who included it in her top 10 Spanish fine wines of 2021. But for such a fascinating and distinctive fine wine, the question remains: why hasn’t Fondillón become globally recognised yet? Why

does it still feel relatively unknown in the UK, despite strong interest in this style today? Perhaps one of the most important reasons was the lack of continuity and fragmented production during the 20th century, when this tradition came close to extinction. At a time when markets such as Britain helped define which wines became global, Fondillón missed that defining moment. Another key factor was the historical lack of export infrastructure, limiting its distribution and global positioning. In the UK specifically, there was no integration with the British wine trade, unlike Sherry, and regulatory complexity has ultimately impacted smaller producers. The bright side – and, I’d say, a unique opportunity – is the renewed momentum for heritage varieties and oxidative styles, alongside an increasing trend in the UK for rare wines and natural, low-intervention offerings. Today, the market is clearly in a moment of rediscovery for British drinkers, within a category waiting to be further explored. Consumers in the UK can now find Fondillón through several distributors, such as The Wine Society, which imports highly rated, limited-production examples like the famous “Luis XIV.” Other specialist merchants, such as WoodWinters, stock rare vintage bottles, including expressions aged over 25 years, as well as via direct shipping from European retailers like Decántalo. The future is certainly exciting for Fondillón, especially in markets such as the UK. In a country that has rediscovered the depth of Sherry, Fondillón may be the next chapter, not as a competitor, but as a forgotten counterpart, finally returning to the table.

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WINEMAKING WINE MATTERS

Photos: Hand Picked Hotels

Chilston Park Hotel DESKTOP www.handpickedhotels.co.uk/chilstonpark

Chapel Down DESKTOP www.chapeldown.com

A Kent wine partnership Chilston Park and Chapel Down. My columns often take me further afield, but it was a pleasure to stay close to home in Kent for this one. I recently visited Chilston Park Hotel and Chapel Down for the launch of their partnership, hosted by Henry Buss, the Southern sales manager of Chapel Down. The trip began at Chapel Down with a hosted tour of the vineyards, before moving on to a stay and hosted dinner at Chilston Park. It's a multi-centre trip connecting vineyard and hotel, and a great addition to tourism in a growing region like Kent. Chilston Park is one of 21 properties under Hand Picked Hotels, a privately owned collection of luxury country house hotels and coastal retreats across England, Scotland and the Channel Islands. The group was founded in 2001 when Julia Hands acquired a portfolio of hotels from the Virgin Group, and has grown through careful acquisition rather than rapid expansion. Set in Kent, Chilston Park sits within easy reach of some of the county's most established vineyards, which makes it a natural gateway property for wine tourism. What makes Hand Picked Hotels 26

particularly relevant to the UK wine industry is the seriousness with which wine is treated across the group. The group's philosophy centres on storytelling behind every bottle, food-friendly wine lists and strong sommelier leadership, backed by Head of Wine Louise Gordon and a newly created Group Wine Director role. That level of investment in wine expertise is still relatively rare among UK hotel groups, and it signals that wine is being treated as a strategic pillar rather than an amenity. The Chilston Park and Chapel Down collaboration puts that philosophy into practice. Chapel Down, one of England's most established and widely recognised wine producers, is roughly half an hour from the hotel, and the partnership has been built around three tiered experiences. The Luxury Tour & Dine Experience offers a full day of food and wine, with both lunch and dinner paired around the winery tour and tasting. The Discovery Experience balances a culinary stay with a winery visit and lunch. The Vineyard Retreat combines a tranquil overnight stay with the tour and tasting itself. Each package includes accommodation in a Manor House

SEPTEMBER 2026 | WWW.VINEYARDMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Classic Double room and a freshly cooked breakfast, alongside the exclusive Chapel Down tour and tasting. This kind of structured, multi-tiered offering matters for English wine because it moves the conversation beyond the tasting room. A guest booking a stay at Chilston Park is not just visiting a vineyard, they are experiencing English wine as part of a wider luxury hospitality narrative, with the country house setting, the dining and the producer story all working together. It is a model that treats wine tourism as an experience to be curated rather than a bolt-on activity, For English wine, partnerships like this are exactly what the category needs. Chapel Down gains direct access to a luxury hospitality audience already primed for premium food and wine experiences, while Hand Picked Hotels strengthens its wine credentials with a producer whose reputation is well established both domestically and internationally. It's a genuinely symbiotic relationship, and one worth watching as more English producers look to hospitality groups as a route to reaching new audiences.

Coates & Seely DESKTOP www.coatesandseely.com

Nicholas guided us through the estate’s expansion plans to the Isle of Wight. A new 20 hectare site followed a decade long search for coastal chalk, chosen in part for its lower frost risk, the kind of long-term planning and future proofing that defines how this estate operates. Joining us on the trip was Des Gunewardena, founder of D3 Collective, along with members of the Pillar Hall team. It was a great opportunity for the whole team to see behind the scenes and understand the history and future of Coates & Seely. The industry significance of this visit lies in what comes next. Coates & Seely have just released their first ever restaurant exclusive cuvée, created specifically for Pillar Hall, the 30,000 sq ft restaurant, bar and live music destination at Olympia. It is a deal they had never done before and were not going to do unless the fit was right. The wine is now the house English sparkling pour at Idalia, the 300-cover all day restaurant at the heart of Pillar Hall. Coates & Seely worked with the Pillar Hall team to create a tailored blend, with dosage and texture designed around how it would actually be drunk, at the bar and at the table. The result is dosed at 7g/l for a fuller, rounder character suited to that setting. English sparkling wine has spent years proving its quality in competitions and blind tastings. What it needs now is exactly this: serious hospitality operators building English wine into their identity rather than treating it as a novelty or a patriotic afterthought. Idalia, opening within Olympia’s £1.3 billion regeneration and led

f i t hs ri f

An exciting visit to Coates & Seely, fresh off the back of being recently voted number three in The Real Reviews Top Wineries of Great Britain 2026. I was invited to Coates & Seely’s Hampshire home along with members of the press and the wider Pillar Hall London team, my first visit to the estate. Coates & Seely was founded in 2008 by Nicholas Coates and Christian Seely, two old friends who set out with a specific ambition: to make an English sparkling wine capable of rivalling the best in the world. That search led them to the chalk downlands of Hampshire, geology that closely mirrors Champagne itself, and later to the chalk coastline of the Isle of Wight. Nearly two decades on, the estate has won gold medals and trophies across the world’s leading competitions and is listed in royal residences and Michelin-starred restaurants. This is not a young producer chasing credibility, it is an established one with a track record that speaks for itself, still expanding with intent. I spent the afternoon at the family’s home in Hampshire, meeting Nicholas Coates and tasting through the range with his wife Virginia, who trained under Prue Leith and worked as a private chef before taking on events and hospitality for the estate. Lunch moved from the NV range through to the 2014 Vintage Rosé magnum, La Perfide. Coates & Seely pride themselves on lower dosage wines, and the restraint shows. The name is a nod to “La Perfide Albion,” the old French dig at perfidious England, reclaimed here with the kind of industry humour that only comes from genuine confidence.

G ce

London collaboration

Alice Griffiths

Alice Griffiths is a wine communicator boosting the profile of English and Welsh Wine on social media. Alice has worked within the agriculture industry for the past 20 years, spending time as a lecturer and a smallholder before discovering her passion for viticulture, winemaking and wine tasting. Get in touch to have your events featured: ✉ Posingwithalcohol@gmail.com DESKTOP www.alicegriffithswine.com INSTAGRAM Alice can be found on social media under @alicegriffithswine on Instagram.

by an experienced restaurateur, choosing to make an English wine its house pour, and commissioning a bespoke blend to do it, signals a shift in how English wine is being positioned in premium hospitality. Des Gunewardena has described finding in Coates & Seely a winemaker unwilling to chase volume, much as his own team refuses to chase scale in hospitality. That shared outlook, patience over speed, quality over expansion, is precisely the kind of alignment that gives English wine credibility in high-end hospitality settings. Both partners describe this as the start of an ongoing relationship, with further pours planned as Upstairs at Pillar Hall opens later this October.

Idalia at Pillar Hall DESKTOP www.pillarhall.co.uk

EDITOR’S VISIT

The land at Missing Gate has been in the same family for nearly 200 years and the land on which the first vineyard was planted was originally purchased after WWII as part of the push to feed the nation. Having been used as arable land and interestingly to raise dairy cows the Speakman Family wanted to put the land into production for the future. It is now possible to look out across acres of land producing exceptional quality fruit from the manor house that has been home to the family for three generations. “Farming production has been underfunded but we wanted this land to grow something valuable again,” said Nick Speakman who runs the business in conjunction with his wife Ali and three sons Charlie, Olly and Jack. Olly described his dad as “taking a leap of faith”

“All at Missing Gate send our heartfelt condolences to Matthew Jukes’ family. He was a great supporter of the nascent Essex wine industry. His honesty and kind words helped with our development enormously.” 28

itor

In the county of Essex situated in close proximity to the Crouch Valley, the River Blackwater and the Hanningfield Estuary, sits Missing Gate Vineyard. The family run vineyard was first planted in 2018 by the Speakman family.

A leap of faith

becca Far me e R r

when he first planted the vines on the unique soil of this part of Essex. “My dad told me the bunches were too small but he liked the idea of planting once for the next three decades,” said Nick with a laugh. The original planting of 18 acres has since grown to over 110 acres across numerous soil types. “The topography of the Crouch Valley means most of the vineyards sit on the productive London Clay but we sit on a high point of the area at 61m above sea level which is the watershed between the Blackwater and Crouch Valleys and we have tougher igneous based clays,” explained Nick.

“One of the things I really appreciate about working in the vineyard is how the same clone on a different rootstock will perform in a completely different way” Olly, Jack and Nick The vine varieties include Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, Bacchus and also Sauvignon Blanc. There are other varieties planted here such as Merlot along with even more unusual varieties that the family team are keeping to themselves. “One of the things I really appreciate about working in the vineyard is how the same clone on a different rootstock will perform in a completely different way,” explained Jack Speakman who is in charge of the management of the vineyard. Jack points to the Alsatian N81 clone of Pinot Blanc as a good example of rootstock choice making a significant difference in fruit development. “Pinot Blanc is a great variety to work with,” said Jack. The main route through the vineyard gives the impression that the vines fall away beside you as they follow the contours of the slopes on either side giving a wonderful panoramic view. The quote from Henry Beecher Jones springs to mind: “It is easier to go down a hill than up it but the view is better at the top.” Indeed, the slopes have proved to be the perfect frost drain and are the reason why the vineyard has escaped the worst of the frost this season. “We have had about 2% frost damage overall, although one block did suffer 10% frost damage,” said both Jack and Nick together. The vineyard has suffered in the past from

cutworm caterpillar damage so there is evidence of barrier control with caps used to prevent access to the new shoots by this damaging pest. Cutworm causes significant damage to emerging shoots and can often be mistaken for bird damage. The vineyard team have had the help of independent consultant Marco Tessari in diagnosing this issue. Marco has also provided advice on shoot positioning and pruning techniques. The team have also had the benefit of expert advice from Nigel Blieschke of Torbreck Vintners in the Barossa Valley. There is a team of skilled workers on site that undertake the major vineyard tasks including pruning leaf stripping, canopy

management and harvest. As a licensed Gangmaster Jack is able to ensure that the vineyard has all the labour in place so that tasks are undertaken when the timing is perfect. “The latest harvest was 5 November in 2023,” said Olly. The aim is for the fruit to develop to between 90°-100° Oechsle depending on the variety with acidity levels again depending on the variety. The Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc are given greater hangtime to allow the sugars to accumulate. “We have been able to achieve 105°-107° Oechsle leaving us with a finished wine pushing 14% alcohol without chaptalization but this makes wines that are just not the wine style we want << to produce,” said Nick.

Any grapes that are left longer on the vine do require the vineyard team to put up bird nets. The team expect to be putting out the nets before the end of August with the high number of sunshine hours and the dry weather meaning the vines look to be significantly ahead of past seasons. “We have reached the point where we don’t now want late rain. We had that problem in the 2023 season where the late rain caused an increase in fruit fly damage. We do a lot of work on the removal of hedgerow fruits to try to control populations of SWD. We find that when the hedgerow fruits are finished the timing of the ripening for the grapes means that SWD move straight from hedgerow to the vine,” said Jack. The balancing act Missing Gate supply fruit to numerous other producers. This year the g act cinwill e balan family team at Missing Gate that there be 130 tonnes of Thestimate fruit produced “although I have yet to finalise the harvest estimates,” said Jack quickly. This will allow Missing Gate to keep enough fruit to produce around 40,000 bottles from the 2026 harvest. The wine is sold onsite with Missing Gate offering visitors the chance to sit and enjoy a significant selection of wines by the glass

The tasting room is open seven days a week and with RHS Hyde Hall and its famous gardens nearby, the area is a popular destination with visitors.

Vi ne V i

nneu tnr iuti torn it:

whilst enjoying the view across the vines. The wines by the glass start at an extremely good price of £6. This gives visitors an enticing invitation to try something that would be outside of their normal comfort zone. Any visitors who do venture to take the plunge and try something different are in for a surprise. “There are 30 different wines to try because of the different soil types across our vineyard plots,” explained Nick. Tastings are conducted in a marquee with a fantastic interior design. There is a feeling of a safari tent from the 1920s, a luxury combined with elegance but there is still a modern twist. For the winter months there is a wood burner although in the current temperatures it sits unused but the atmosphere that it would create on an early autumn evening is something that every visitor would enjoy. “We have a fantastic designer in Ali,” said Nick referring to his wife who is responsible for the wonderful décor that visually captures the essence of a luxury but relaxed wine drinking experience.

Smiths of the Forest of Dean

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The tasting room is open seven days a week and with RHS Hyde Hall and its famous gardens (including a drought tolerant garden) nearby, the area is a popular destination with visitors both from the local area and further afield. From Thursday to Saturday the tasting room offers a seasonal menu which has been expertly curated to shine a spotlight on how the wines of Missing Gate pair exceptionally with several food styles. The wines of Missing Gate are made at the Defined wine facilities on the Essex/Suffolk border and the team work with winemaker Tim Manning who is based in Tuscany. These international wine connections have been made possible because Nick and Ali Speakman run an international food technology company FoodPhysics. The company has revolutionised aspects of food production with Pulsed Electric Field (PEF) technology a technique that allows access at the cellular level to fresh produce. The applications of the technology range from increasing shelf life to improving the quality of freeze dried fruits. PEF technology has been approved by the AOV for the treatment of grapes and wine. With international connections at universities and research companies all over the world it is hardly surprising that the new winery that is being built at Missing Gate will incorporate research and development into its core. “The PEF technology will also have applications in wine production and the research winery will investigate this area as well. I enjoy the process of getting something to work better to be less energy intensive or to enhance a process,” said Nick with warmth in his voice. Missing Gate may be making remarkable advances in the science of food technology but that has been woven seamlessly into the history of the land and the importance of the soil. The story of the wine produced here has been cleverly incorporated into the label designs with the Three Horse, Two Horse and One Horse Pinot Noir wines. The Number of Shire Horses that it took to successfully pull a plough through land was directly linked to the soil type and these phrases are traditionally associated with the land in Essex and the Crouch Valley in particular. <<

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The only blended wine that is produced at Missing Gate is named Salt Weight, a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc.

It is important to the Speakman family that the wines demonstrate the identity of Essex – the dry climate with high sunshine hours linked with the history of the unique soils are the central themes of all the wines. “People really enjoy the link between the land and the wine through the horse power story and we have a lot of customers who regularly come in to buy these wines,” said Charlie. Two Horse Land Pinot Noir 2022 is served at The Farmers Dog (The pub belonging to Jeremy Clarkson) and has won much praise. The recently bottled Pinot Noir 2024 is a wine that has huge aging potential. For many 2024 was a year that was poor in terms of weather but Missing Gate in Essex had only average rainfall and good degree growing days meaning this wine has black fruit notes underpinned with spice that give an elegant drinking experience. This wine indicates that there are many exciting things ahead at Missing Gate and the day of the visit Olly was heading to Defined to discuss the progress of the wines from the 2025 harvest. The only blended wine that is produced at Missing Gate is named Salt Weight, a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc. The name comes from the discovery of weights dating to the roman period (in the fields planted with Pinot Blanc) that were used by traders selling salt that was produced in the Crouch Valley notably the Saltcoats, a couple of miles from the vineyard. Salt production is still synonymous with this part of Essex. The wine produced is a beautiful honey colour with pear notes and a balanced acidity with 12.5% alcohol and the wine has a wonderful long finish making it perfect to accompany seafood

Nick and Charlie but also as a stand alone easy drinking wine. A long finish is something that is noticeable in every wine that Missing Gate have produced. It is so noticeable it is almost like a fingerprint. This is especially true in the Sauvignon Blanc 2024 which is fruit forward with a lively acidity, this wine has introduced itself as soon as the

bottle is opened. A great wine with a long finish this is a wine to drink at anytime with or without food and is an exciting representation of the excellent Sauvignon Blanc that can be produced in Essex. Missing Gate is a perfect metaphor for a vineyard where imagination meets technical innovation. There is an open

road ahead that the family team at Missing Gate will continue to navigate with their customary humour and technical expertise. It feels like the deep connection to the past and the land has given this team the confidence to embrace the future with a desire to constantly improve. It is in fact a complete recipe for success.

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A season running ahead

Why 2026 is rewriting the UK vineyard calendar. If you haven’t started preparing for harvest, now is the time. Across much of the UK, harvest is shaping up to be one of the earliest in recent memory. Veraison arrived during the last week of July on many sites, but the warning signs had been there for months. Since April, prolonged heat and exceptionally low rainfall have accelerated vine development, shortened the ripening period and left growers watching fruit mature at remarkable speed. Not every vineyard has responded in the same way. Sites with deeper soils and better moisture reserves have generally maintained balanced growth, while

shallower or drought prone vineyards have seen reduced shoot growth and earlier signs of water stress. This season has highlighted just how important soil type, site and canopy management are in determining crop development.

Why are grapes ripening so quickly?

The answer lies in how vines respond to heat and drought. Warm conditions accelerate sugar accumulation while speeding up the breakdown of malic acid; the acid responsible for the crisp, green-apple

character of immature grapes. At the same time, berries lose a small amount of water through transpiration, concentrating sugars even further. As soils dry, vines redirect energy away from producing new shoots and leaves and towards ripening fruit. Berries soften sooner, seeds brown earlier and skins begin to toughen, all signs that physiological maturity is advancing. The result is a compressed ripening window. Sugar rises rapidly, acidity falls quicker than normal, and grapes move from veraison to harvest readiness much faster than growers expect in a typical UK season.

TYPICAL HARVEST INDICATORS BY VARIETY Variety

°Brix

Titratable acidity (TA) (g/100 mL)

Sensory indicators

Chardonnay

18 - 20

0.8-1.0

3.1 - 3.3

Yellow/green berries, brown seeds, citrus and stone fruit aromas

Bacchus

17 - 19

0.6-0.75

3.1 - 3.3

Pale yellow berries, elderflower and lime aromatics

Pinot Noir

20 - 22

0.6-0.8

3.3 - .5

Full colour development, supple skins, red fruit flavours

Pinot Meunier

19 - 21

0.6-0.8

3.2 - 3.4

Even red/black colour, brown seeds, berries soften uniformly

*Targets vary depending on site, season, crop load and intended wine style. Sparkling wine production typically favours higher acidity and lower sugar levels than still wine production. 34

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ALL THINGS AGRONOMY This season, relying on the calendar could prove costly. With ripening progressing so rapidly, regular fruit sampling is essential. Rather than focusing on °Brix alone, growers should assess the full picture of ripeness, including sugar, titratable acidity (TA), pH, berry colour and physiological maturity. Together, these indicators provide the clearest guide to harvest timing and help ensure fruit is picked at its optimum balance of sugar, acidity and flavour.

Across parts of the UK, July 2026 recorded virtually no measurable rainfall, while sunshine hours significantly exceeded those of July 2025, leaving many vineyard soils exceptionally dry. Dry soils are generally less prone to deep compaction because they are structurally stronger. However, if significant rain arrives before or during harvest, conditions can deteriorate rapidly. Wet soils are highly vulnerable to rutting, smearing and structural damage, particularly where machinery repeatedly follows the same wheelings. Low ground pressure tyres, minimising unnecessary machinery movements and planning traffic routes carefully can all help protect soil structure during harvest.

Harvest preparation starts now

An early harvest leaves little room for last minute organisation. Every picker needs buckets, gloves, PPE and vine snips. Sharp secateurs are often overlooked but make a noticeable difference, producing clean cuts that reduce berry damage and improve picking efficiency. Harvest machinery deserves the same attention. Tractors, trailers, presses, pumps and sorting tables should all be serviced before harvest begins, when even minor breakdowns can quickly become costly delays.

A season that rewards preparation

Every vintage presents its own challenges, but 2026 stands out for its pace. Heat, drought and accelerated ripening have shifted the UK’s harvest calendar forward by weeks rather than days, leaving growers with less time to react than usual. The vineyards that perform best this season

are unlikely to be those with the earliest fruit; they will be those that are best prepared. Regular sampling, flexible harvest planning, well maintained equipment and organised picking teams will be key to making timely harvest decisions. In 2026, waiting for the “usual” harvest date may simply be too late.

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Protecting soils during harvest

Fit

Don’t rely on the calendar: monitor the fruit

Megan Fitzpatrick For advice on agronomy and government grants, contact, Megan Fitzpatrick MRes, MBPR (Hort), FQA , Agronomist and Farm Business Consultant. ✉ fitzpatrick.agronomy@outlook.com 📞 07870 522084

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Rob S

AGRONOMY DIARY

ders un

Botrytis risk may be down, but not out

DESKTOP www.hutchinsons.co.uk ENVELOPE information@hlhltd.co.uk phone-alt 01945 461177

Botrytis pressure has been lower than normal in most vineyards after an exceptionally warm, dry season so far, but the risk never disappears, so Hutchinsons agronomist Rob Saunders offers his advice for protecting crops through to harvest. Botrytis bunch rot is an ever-present threat in UK vineyards, but fortunately this season, several factors have combined to reduce the risks as bunches ripen – at the time of writing at least. One is the fact that flowering was completed relatively quickly in warm, dry conditions, meaning less opportunity for the latent infection that is caused when spores get into the scar tissue left when flower caps (calyptra) detach. That is not to say there is no latent infection lurking in bunches, and if conditions favour disease over the next few weeks, any that is there, could soon appear. The optimum temperature for spore germination is around 18-21°C, although research shows some can germinate below 10°C or above 30°C. Surface moisture is essential though, which can be provided by rain, dew, mist, fog, or even just very high humidity.

Open bunches at less risk

Bunch architecture is another important driver of Botrytis pressure, as tightly packed bunches have poorer airflow and are more at risk of berries rupturing due to high turgor pressure, creating entry points for infection and releasing a sugary solution that fuels the Botrytis cinerea fungus. By this stage in the season, there is little we can do to alter bunch architecture,

which is driven by inherent varietal traits, and can be manipulated with the use of growth regulators, such as prohexadione, at flowering. Temperatures at flowering also have an effect, with hot, dry conditions resulting in greater elongation of the rachis and more open bunches. We have seen this in some varieties this season, notably Bacchus, which could help reduce disease risk in those crops.

Management options

While some factors are beyond growers’ control, there are still a few key cultural and chemical tools we can use to help mitigate Botrytis risk late in the season, as summarised below: ◆ Leaf stripping around the bunch zone improves airflow, reduces humidity, and can also help ripening. Many growers want to retain some leaf cover to prevent sunburn over the main summer months, however by late August/early September, UV intensity is declining, so this should not be an issue. De-leafing can also make it easier for pickers to see the bunches, potentially improving harvest speed and efficiency too ◆ Controlling weeds and other vegetation in the undervine area similarly helps improve air movement and reduces the likelihood of conditions that favour disease ◆ Foliar calcium applications are thought to help reduce Botrytis risk, by strengthening cell walls and making berries less prone to splitting. Applications made pre-veraison are generally considered to be the most effective

◆ Apply a Botryticide to prevent disease

spreading. There are three main options available, based on either pyrimethanil, cyprodinil + fludioxonil, or fenhexamid. In trials, we have seen they can all contribute something to Botrytis control, however the 21-day harvest intervals will preclude their use closer to picking ◆ Consider biological protection. With little or no harvest interval, biological products based on ‘good bacteria’ such as Aureobasidium pullulans or Bacillus amyloliquefaciens D747 can be a useful option for protecting bunches right up to harvest. The former works mainly by colonising the surface of bunches to outcompete pathogens, while the latter does the same, but also includes metabolites with anti-fungal activity. Recognise these are biological products, so applying them in the correct conditions is crucial, especially to maximise any benefits from spores colonising bunches. Finally, it is worth noting that many vines are two to three weeks ahead of normal at the time of writing, due to the favourable conditions. There is variability across regions and within individual crops though, especially where primary, and in some cases, secondary, growth was hit by late frosts. How growers manage any variability at harvest depends on individual decisions and winemaker requirements, but if the plan is to wait for everything to mature (rather than discarding under-ripe bunches), it will be essential to adequately protect those bunches that ripen first as acidity declines, sugar content rises, skins soften, and the natural antimicrobial compounds diminish.

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GRAPE SPOTLIGHT

Chardonnay: the best of the best

u ra Hadland a L

Biddenden produces million At a doubleVineyards blind tasting held atover thisayear’s London litres cider and juice every year. Wine of Fair, there was a surprise winner at the Icon Tasting: The Greatest Chardonnay Showdown. The winner was not from Burgundy, or the sunny slopes of California, as you might expect. Instead it was a single variety from Tasmania that took the title. The 2023 Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay was crowned the best in the world – one of three wines of Australia to rank in the competition’s top ten. English producers, Danbury Ridge, also performed phenomenally well, taking third place in the Chardonnay Showdown for their Octagon Block Chardonnay 2023. These wines are made every year using a focused selection of fruit from handpicked parcels of the estate. The grapes were whole-bunch pressed and fermented in 228L French oak barrels, then left on the gross lees for 18 months. There was a further 12 months elevage before release to give a creamy wine with complex tropical fruit flavours. The fact that such a competition even exists is testament to the incredible global success story that is Chardonnay. The grape variety has proliferated unimaginably from its humble beginnings. It all began, so the story goes, in the village of the same name in the Mâconnais district of Burgundy. Chardonnay has now gone on to become the most

Gusbourne

planted white grape variety in the world. A vigorous variety known for its heavy cropping, Chardonnay’s popularity amongst winemakers is no doubt thanks to its flexibility and forgiving nature. It grows in a range of climates and its sensitivity to winemaking practices means that the grape can exhibit anything from mouth filling honey and butterscotch tones to austere mineral-heavy, lemon scented wines. It’s not all good news, however. It is an early budding variety that can leave it susceptible to frost. That is a particular worry for English growers who have seen more prolonged and later frost events when the shoots come forth in the spring. Having a thin skin can also make Chardonnay a ready candidate for mildew in damp seasons. Despite these drawbacks, Chardonnay has become relatively ubiquitous throughout the wine growing world. There was a tendency amongst some New World producers to

over-oak Chardonnay from the 1980s. This led to the rise of the so-called ABC ‘movement’ in the early 2000s. “Anything But Chardonnay” were the words on everyone’s lips as consumer palates grew fatigued by heavily sweetened, full-fruited and creamy wines. However, the ABC movement did not spell the end for the grape by any means. Thanks to the diversity of wines that can be made, and the complexity it can exhibit when left to express its innate character, Chardonnay is back in a big way. In fact, the strong public reaction may have helped winemakers to put more consideration into their methods to fit in with changes in public tastes. And perhaps nowhere is Chardonnay having a new dawn more than here in the United Kingdom. To an extent, the grape is moving away from its traditional bedfellows, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, and standing on its own two feet as a single varietal to be reckoned with.

Chardonnay grapes at Gusbourne

Chardonnay’s origins Dr Carole Meredith spent 20 years as a professor at UC Davis doing active research into grape genetics. One of her most famous findings was the establishment of Chardonnay’s parentage. Pinot was shown to be the father, the pollen parent. Gouais Blanc, a now extremely rare variety, was the mother. It is not known which variety of Pinot exactly is the parent: Noir, Gris, Blanc or Meunier. That is because they all have the same DNA profile. “In botanical terms, they all represent a single variety,” Dr Meredith says. She suspects that it may have been the case that the reason Pinot and Gouais Blanc were able to create such a strong offspring was due to them being so genetically different from each other. That diverse gene pool has created a grape variety that has not just survived, but thrived. The variety’s first mention in the historical source material is disputed. Some cite a document of 1330. Cistercian monks from Cîteaux Abbey were supposedly noted for building a wall around a section of their now famous Clos de Vougeot vineyard in Burgundy, which was planted solely with Chardonnay. Clos de Vougeot is now widely regarded as the original experimental vineyard and the cradle of terroir winemaking. Others feel that the most secure early reference is much later, deriving from the nearby French village of Saint-Sorlin, known now as La Roche-Vineuse. Written in the late 1600s, it discusses plantings of the “Chardonnet” grape. Whatever the truth of the matter, the variety spread first across France and then outward through Europe, before being picked

up by the New World. It was first seen in California in the 19th century, under the auspices of the head of the California Viticulture Commission, Charles Wetmore. He had imported cuttings from Meursault to plant in his Livermore vineyard. Those first plants, and further material brought over by the Wente family, established Chardonnay firmly on the West Coast. In Australia, its proliferation as a commercial variety is often attributed to Murray Tyrrell jumping the fence of Penfolds’ experimental HVD vineyard to “liberate” some Chardonnay cuttings in 1967. However, this may simply be a question of never letting the truth get in the way of a good story! In England, Chardonnay was a natural choice for the first pioneering winemakers of the modern age because, of course, it is one of the classic trinity of grapes used for making world-class sparkling wines. The cool English climate helped the variety retain its natural high acidity, making it a perfect base for award-winning sparkling wines. It is estimated that the combination of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay now makes up around 70% of all vines planted in England and Wales in total, with Chardonnay accounting for nearly half of that number. That makes it the most planted variety in the country. In the past 15 years or so, however, as summers have warmed and the growing season has lengthened, growers have found themselves able to achieve Chardonnay harvests with higher sugar levels and fuller ripeness. This has encouraged the production of more singlevariety sparkling and still Chardonnays. It is the proliferation of high-quality single-variety Chardonnay in England and Wales that we focus on in more detail in this month’s Vineyard Magazine. SEPTEMBER 2026 | VINEYARD

GRAPE SPOTLIGHT

The small producer Brabourne Vineyard, Kent. Blanc de Blancs and single variety still Chardonnays are still a minority when it comes to the total commercial output of English and Welsh vineyards, but winemakers and the wine-drinking public certainly appear to be getting a taste for them. Hester Fenwick, the co-founder of Brabourne Vineyard, on the Kent Downs took time out to tell us more about her work with Chardonnay as a single variety.

“We only have ten rows of Chardonnay, so the only times we can do a pure Chardonnay is in the high yield years when we can get over one tonne of it. This year is looking good! We did a Blanc de Blancs in 2020, which is still aging, and a still Chardonnay in 2023.” “For us Chardonnay struggles to ripen more than our Pinot Noir – we have had a couple of years (2017, 2024) where we

Brabourne Vineyard

didn’t bother picking it because it was late in the season and still not where we wanted it to be. “We’re quite high up here so our normal picking time is mid-October. If it hasn’t hit the levels we want by then, there’s not much point in hoping that it’s going to get better – but they tend to be the low yield years anyway. Normally we use Chardonnay in a sparkling wine with the Pinot Noir (2018, 2019, 2022, 2025). And 2021 was dire for both grapes, so we made Vermouth.” “In terms of selling, most of our visitors state a dislike of Chardonnay before trying it – but the vast majority have been put off by a heavily oaked examples in the past so they realise it was the oak, not the Chardonnay, that they disliked. Ours is very light and unoaked. It is not our best seller because it is so light, but it definitely has its niche market – and is my favourite wine!”

Aged sparkling Chardonnay Exton Park Vineyard, Hampshire. Exton Park Vineyard in Hampshire have form when it comes to trialling new ways of bringing flavour and complexity to their wines. They were the first to create a sea-aged English sparkling, for example. The ‘60 Below’ Blanc de Blancs 2014, made from 100% Chardonnay, of course, spent 12 months submerged to a depth of 60m under the English Channel/La Manche off the coast of Brest, Brittany. This release was followed up by a ‘60 Below’ Blanc de Noirs 2014. So it was no surprise to see them toasting a phenomenal success in the 2026 Wine GB awards. Their 100% Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs Vintage 2013 picked up the gold in the Best Aged/Prestige Wine category. They have claimed that the wine has the longest lees ageing of any English wine from that vintage, as it was bottled in 2014 and disgorged in 2025. The award-winning 2013 vintage sparkling was made using the grapes harvested from the first twenty rows of Exton Park’s oldest vines. The vineyard was first established in 2003 and its on-site winery was built there in 2009 – all to the vision of Exton Park’s late founder, Malcolm Isaac MBE. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier were the first varieties planted on the estate’s chalk slopes. The Chardonnay grapes harvested in that particular vintage enjoyed the benefits of a long, warm summer, and so were able to mature to their fullest on the vines. Such was the concentration and balance of 40

60 Below

the wine that an experiment in long aging on the lees was a gamble worth taking. Such prolonged maturation periods show a new confidence in English winemaking, as well as demonstrating that the secure financial foundations are in place to allow a parcel of wine to be tied up for so long before it comes to market. Exton Park are not the first to release late disgorged styles, Chapel Down, Wiston Estate, Gusbourne and All Angels are among the names that have also brought Cuveés made with a long period of lees aging to the market.

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GRAPE SPOTLIGHT

Aged still Chardonnay Gusbourne, Kent. Still wines “are a labour of love” according to Laura Rhys MS, the Head of Wine at Gusbourne of Kent. However, the labour is gradually easing slightly, thanks (and I use the word with caveats!) to the dramatic impact of climate change making it easier to achieve the necessary ripeness in the Chardonnay plantings. Still wines are very much a minority concern when you look at the industry as a whole. Of the total production, sparkling wine is dominant, with some three-quarters of all wines produced by English and Welsh makers being sparkling. Gusbourne already have an excellent reputation for sparkling wines, but have found that still wine also fills an important place in their portfolio, not least to fulfil the demand from restaurants who want quality English-grown still wines on their menus Gusbourne’s still Chardonnay, Guinevere, is generally made from Burgundy clones and has been produced since 2011. At a recent tasting, a part of their 20th anniversary celebrations, Gusbourne demonstrated that not only does their wine have the flavour and freshness to meet the highest expectations, but in addition that their still wine can also be laid down for as long as a decade, with delicious results. At their 10 Years On tasting, hosted at London’s 67 Pall Mall, the 2016 Guinevere was tasted alongside the most recent release, the 2023 vintage. 2016, as you may remember, was described as a vintage of two halves by Stephen Skelton in his annual harvest report – with excellent sugar levels

and very ripe grapes on the one hand, but low yields on the other. However, this was exactly what Gusbourne needed to make a full flavoured still Chardonnay that has softened and intensified over the intervening years. The 2016 Guinevere was made using grapes only from Gusbourne’s Boot Hill Vineyard. The parcels of grapes were whole bunch pressed and fermented in 228l barrels. The wine then spent 10 months in oak; 20% new and 80% old. Compared to its younger counterpart, Guinevere 2016 has a delicate creaminess and round notes of honey, pineapple and soft peach. The 2023, made in what was described as a “near perfect year” exhibits Gusbourne’s characteristic salinity against crisper citrus and fruit flavours. This wine was made from Chardonnay grapes from both the Boot Hill and Commanders vineyards. It was also whole-bunch pressed and the fermentation was split between 228l barrels and 500l puncheons. It spent nine months in oak – 16% new and 84% old – before enjoying a further six months’ repose on the fine lees in stainless steel. It was fascinating to weigh up the old and the new in terms of how the soft fruit character had developed and evolved over time and how both exhibited a certain richness, which had come to the fore beautifully in the older wine. Both are undeniably excellent, but the mouthfilling character of the 2016 was truly worth the wait. This exhibition of Guinevere in her delicious maturity is arguably a part of the first wave of purposefully aged still English

Chardonnay Guivevere 2023 wines that we are seeing being released in a more public forum. Conventional wisdom states that the fresh acidity of English stills will be best enjoyed while they are young, but Gusbourne has clearly demonstrated that their wines have all the character and depth that is required to easily buck that trend. I am very hopeful that this can be taken as a sign of some more mature still English and Welsh wines filtering through that are yet another feather in the cap of our industry on the international stage.

HARVEST PREPARATION

Managing harvest risks in 2026 From vineyard to fermentation. The 2026 growing season has brought a mix of challenges across UK vineyards. Periods of heat, drought stress, and irregular rainfall have created conditions that may impact grape composition at harvest, leading to higher pH, elevated sugar accumulation, nutrient imbalances, and increased pressure from spoilage microorganisms. These conditions can translate into fermentation difficulties, reduced aromatic expression, and greater microbiological instability if not managed proactively.

Understanding fermentation risks

One of the most common concerns in difficult vintages is sluggish or stuck fermentation. Stress conditions in the vineyard can lead to musts with reduced yeast assimilable nitrogen (YAN), vitamin deficiencies, and altered sugar profiles. High fructose concentrations, particularly in overripe fruit, can be challenging for yeast to metabolize during the final stages of fermentation, increasing the risk of residual sugar and fermentation arrest. Higher pH values may further complicate fermentation by creating more favourable conditions for spoilage organisms while reducing the effectiveness of sulphur dioxide. As a result, microbiological management becomes increasingly important throughout the winemaking process.

Establishing yeast dominance

A strong fermentation strategy starts with proper yeast management. Early and effective inoculation helps rapidly establish the selected yeast population, limiting the growth of spontaneous microflora and unwanted microorganisms. Promoting rapid yeast dominance reduces competition for

nutrients, improves fermentation reliability, and supports cleaner aromatic expression. Nutrition also plays a critical role. Supplying balanced nitrogen and survival factors at the appropriate stages of fermentation helps maintain yeast vitality and reduce stress. During the early stages, Nutriferm Ultra provides organic nutrients rich in amino acids and growth factors that promote healthy yeast development and cell multiplication. When aromatic expression is a priority, Nutriferm Arom Plus can help support the formation of aroma precursors while maintaining strong fermentation performance. As fermentation progresses and alcohol levels increase, yeast are exposed to greater stress. Nutriferm Advance helps maintain yeast viability and metabolic activity, supporting a steady fermentation through the more demanding stages of the process. In situations where fermentations begin to slow or show signs of arrest, Nutriferm No Stop can provide targeted support to help maintain momentum and achieve completion. This approach is particularly valuable when fermenting musts with elevated sugar levels, low YAN, or other conditions that increase the risk of sluggish or stuck fermentations.

Protecting aroma and freshness

Oxidation management is equally important in seasons where fruit quality may be variable. Oxidative damage can reduce freshness, diminish varietal character, and limit aroma potential before fermentation even begins. Preventative treatments such as Claril OX can help protect must quality from the earliest stages of processing by limiting oxidative damage during grape handling and settling. At juice rack-off, antioxidant solutions such as EnartisPro Blanco can further preserve freshness, safeguard delicate aroma compounds, enhance

varietal character, and contribute to greater palate volume and mouthfeel. Taking preventative action early often delivers better results than attempting to correct oxidation issues later in the winemaking process.

Managing microbiological stability

Elevated pH and compromised fruit can also increase the risk of spoilage organisms such as Brettanomyces, lactic acid bacteria, and acetic acid bacteria. Once established, these microorganisms can be difficult to control and may negatively impact wine quality. For wineries concerned about microbiological stability, EnartisStab Micro M provides an additional tool to help manage microbial populations and support product stability while preserving wine quality. When integrated into a broader quality management programme, preventative microbiological control can reduce risk and improve consistency.

A proactive approach

While seasonal conditions cannot be controlled, careful preparation before harvest can significantly reduce their impact. Evaluating fruit maturity, monitoring nutrient levels, implementing early oxidation protection, and selecting the right yeast and nutrition strategy will help producers navigate potential challenges and capture the best possible expression of the vintage. In a demanding harvest year, a proactive approach from grape reception through fermentation remains the most effective way to protect wine quality, preserve aromatic potential, and ensure successful fermentations.

More information can be found on our website. Looking for further technical support? Reach out to Jennifer Lincoln at Enartis. Products are locally available through Itasca Wines. DESKTOP www.enartis.com/en-uk/ ENVELOPE Jennifer.lincoln@enartis.com SEPTEMBER 2026 | VINEYARD

From grape to glass, and beyond: Celebrating the entire UK sector Working in partnership with Vineyard magazine for a developing UK wine industry. WineGB is the national association for the English and Welsh wine industry. WineGB represents, leads, and supports the sustainable growth of the Great British wine sector.

If you are interested in wine production in the UK, find out more about WineGB and join us. Visit our website www.winegb.co.uk

UK wine enters a new era

The wines and vineyards that defined the 2026 WineGB Awards. The 2026 WineGB Awards – held for the first time at 10 Union Street, London – have confirmed a decisive shift in the trajectory of English and Welsh wine. Confidence, diversity and technical mastery were the defining themes of this year’s results, with judges praising an industry that has “outgrown the box” and is now producing wines of world class calibre across multiple styles.

A landmark year for quality

Langham Wine Estate (Dorset) dominated the podium for the second consecutive year, securing Supreme Champion, Best Producer, Best Sparkling Wine, and Best Non Vintage Sparkling Wine for its Corallian Classic Cuvée NV, which achieved an extraordinary 99 points. Judges celebrated its “outstanding balance and layer upon layer of flavour,” marking it as one of the highest scoring wines in the history of the competition. Hattingley Valley’s Kings Cuvée 2017 (Hampshire) followed closely with 98 points and the Best Aged/Vintage Cuvée trophy, praised as “a very accomplished wine that shows great class.”

Langham Wine Estate (Dorset) dominated the podium for the second consecutive year, securing Supreme Champion, Best Producer, Best Sparkling Wine, and Best Non Vintage Sparkling Wine

Still wines: a category coming of age

This year’s results underline a major evolution in still winemaking, with standout performances across Chardonnay, Bacchus, rosé and Pinot Noir. Blackbook Winery (London) took Best Still Chardonnay and Best Still Wine for Pygmalion Chardonnay 2023 (97 points), described as “an outstanding Chardonnay that fires the soul.” Balfour Winery Liberty’s Bacchus 2025 earned Best Still White (not Chardonnay) with 96 points, showcasing the growing sophistication of England’s signature aromatic variety.

Producers to watch: contract winemaking and newcomers West Sussex stood out for technical excellence, with Wiston Estate named Best Contract Winery, with client wines earning 14 medals and Abingworth Vineyard was awarded Best Newcomer, achieving one Gold and four Silver medals in its debut year. Regional champions demonstrated the breadth of quality across England and Wales, from Flint Vineyard in the East to Vale Vineyard and Velfrey Vineyard in Wales. Co chair judge Peter Richards MW and host for the awards ceremony, summed up the mood of the evening: “There was a time when you felt like you could put UK wine in a neat box. No longer. There is now an ambition, diversity and adventurous nature to many wines that speaks of confidence in the craft. The 2026 WineGB Awards confirm that English and Welsh wine is not only maturing – it is thriving, innovating and earning its place on the world stage.” A thanks to our headline sponsor for the awards ceremony, Rankin Brothers & Sons and all the trophy sponsors – Mayo Wynne Baxter, Croxsons, Enartis, Between the Vines, Harpers, LCB, The Pig, NFU Mutual, A.E. Chapman, Vetreria Etrusca, Boxes & Packaging, Riedel and Oak Creative.

The full list of winners can be found on the WineGB website: www.winegb.co.uk/wines/awards/ 44

DATES FOR THE DIARY Visit our events’ page for the full list of activities taking place.

7 September 2026

WineGB National Press & Trade Tasting

25 November 2026 2026

Strengthening the future of English and Welsh wine through export growth WineGB highlighted at its conference in July, the growing international demand for English and Welsh wine and the strategic importance of exports for the sector’s long term resilience. With premium sparkling outperforming global averages and still wines gaining recognition in key markets, international expansion is now central to industry growth.

Producers are already achieving success across the Nordics, Japan, the United States, and travel retail. These markets offer structured routes to entry, strong consumer alignment, and clear commercial potential. WineGB is focusing its Export Programme on providing

comprehensive support and solutions to the practical challenges of everything involved in the process from logistics to compliance and production planning, as well as market intelligence, trade missions and importer introductions. WineGB encourages producers to explore priority markets, engage with export support programmes, and develop export ready plans to unlock new commercial opportunities. The global market is ready for English and Welsh wine and WineGB stands ready to support producers in building sustainable, profitable export growth and who want to be part of this success story.

JOIN WINEGB

phone-alt 01858 467792 paper-plane office@winegb.co.uk globe-asia www.WineGB.co.uk SEPTEMBER 2026 | VINEYARD

Electric vehicle powers up New Isuzu D-Max electric vehicle powers up its one-tonne-plus payload, 3,500kg towing capacity and permanent four-wheel drive for VoltWorx26. The new Isuzu D-Max Electric Vehicle featured at VoltWorx26, an event organised jointly by Isuzu dealer Crawfords Group in Chelmsford and Plumpton College in East Sussex. The VoltWorx event at Plumpton brought together representatives from a broad range of manufacturers, technology providers, educators and sustainability specialists, with more than 150

delegates from local authorities, education, professional sport, ground care and fleet organisations. The first European production Electric Vehicle pick-up to offer over a one-tonne payload as well as permanent four-wheel drive and 3.5 tonne towing capacity, the Isuzu D-Max EVs impressed visitors to VoltWorx26. Delegates enjoyed test drives with Crawfords Group

SEPTEMBER 2026 | WWW.VINEYARDMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Isuzu, West Sussex, and took the opportunity to discuss features such as lower running costs, ecologically considerate and quiet performance, and the tax efficiencies of an electric pick-up, including lower benefit-in-kind company car tax. With a focus on sustainability, guests networked and enjoyed keynote presentations from the Energy Saving Trust and Brighton and Hove FC. Panel discussions and breakout sessions explored industry perspectives on sustainability and the adoption of electrified vehicles and machinery. Topics included charging infrastructure, total cost of ownership, workforce skills and the practical implementation of new technology. “We’re delighted the new Isuzu D-Max EV continues to receive a high level of interest at events like this following its launch this year, with our zero-emission pick-up now being delivered to customers within diverse environments where sustainability, low operating costs and tax efficiencies are sought after,” said Alan Able, Managing Director of Isuzu UK. “Congratulations to Crawfords Group on their initiative in organising an event such as VoltWorx26.” “The launch of the Isuzu D-Max EV pick-up is an important new option for businesses that want to reduce emissions without moving away from the capability they expect from a working pick-up,” said Wes Crawford, Managing Director of Crawfords Group. “With full-time four-wheel drive, a one-tonne payload and a 3.5-tonne towing capacity, it demonstrates that electrification can be practical for demanding commercial and fleet operations. VoltWorx 26 gave customers the opportunity to explore such developments and have honest conversations about where electric vehicles can work within their businesses.”

We stock CALVET sprayers in various configurations, including Tangential Semi-Mounted Chassis, Tangential Carried Chassis, and Tangential Rear Chassis, providing tailored solutions for vineyards. As the UK stockist and expert for vineyard sprayers and machinery, we offer top-quality equipment designed for durability and efficiency, meeting the unique needs of British vineyards.

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MACHINERY & EQUIPMENT

Partnership brings renowned German-engineered range to expanding portfolio Kirkland UK is proud to announce they are the official Weidemann distributor for the South of England, strengthening its position as one of the UK's leading suppliers of specialist machinery for fruit growers, vineyards and the wider agricultural sector. The partnership brings the renowned German-engineered Weidemann range of articulated wheel loaders, telescopic wheel loaders, telehandlers and attachments to Kirkland UK's expanding portfolio. Weidemann machines are particularly well suited to the horticultural and viticultural sectors, where compact dimensions, excellent visibility and outstanding manoeuvrability are essential. Their articulated steering allows operators to work efficiently within narrow rows, while powerful lifting capabilities make them ideal for handling harvest bins, pallets, pruning material and a wide variety of attachments throughout the year As well as being suited to vineyards and orchards, the Weidemann range offers versatile solutions for livestock, mixed and arable farms. Whether feeding livestock, mucking out buildings, stacking bales, loading grain, handling fertiliser or carrying out general yard duties, Weidemann machines combine compact size with impressive lifting performance to maximise efficiency on every farm. Scott Worsley, Managing Director of Kirkland UK, said: “We are delighted to become the official Weidemann distributor for the South of England. Weidemann has an outstanding reputation for engineering quality, innovation and reliability, making it a perfect fit for our customers. The range complements our existing specialist machinery portfolio and provides an excellent solution for fruit growers, vineyard managers and farmers looking for compact, versatile handling equipment that performs day in, day out. We look forward to supporting customers with expert advice, demonstrations, genuine parts and

Kirkland UK appointed official Weidemann distributor for the south of England.

industry-leading aftersales service.” As the new distributor, Kirkland UK will supply the complete Weidemann product range, backed by experienced sales specialists, service engineers and genuine parts support. Customers are also able to book in on-site machinery demonstrations,

ensuring every machine is matched to the specific requirements. For more information about the Weidemann range or to arrange a demonstration, please contact Kirkland UK on 01622 843013 or visit www.kirklanduk.com SEPTEMBER 2026 | VINEYARD

producing a more considered finish around replacement vines, end posts and areas where machinery simply cannot achieve the same level of precision. The trade-off, however, is that trimming can be physically demanding, especially over a full day’s work. One of the biggest contributors to operator fatigue is weight. On most battery-powered trimmers, the battery is mounted directly on the machine, meaning the operator is supporting its full weight with every movement. Over the course of a season, that extra weight can take its toll on shoulders, wrists and arms.

Witt

As the UK wine industry continues to mature, many vineyards are placing increasing emphasis on quality rather than simply maximising output. Canopy management plays a key role in achieving this, and while larger vineyards often rely on tractormounted equipment, manual trimming continues to have an important place, particularly in smaller vineyards or blocks where greater attention to detail is required. Working by hand allows operators to respond to the individual needs of the vines,

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Reducing fatigue during vineyard trimming by hand.

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VITIFRUIT EQUIPMENT An increasingly popular alternative is to carry the battery in a backpack, leaving only the motor and cutting head in the operator’s hands. The reduction in weight is immediately noticeable, making the trimmer easier to manoeuvre and significantly less tiring to use throughout the day. The Zanon RAPTOR is one example of this approach. By moving the battery onto the operator’s back, the tool feels lighter and better balanced, making it easier to maintain control and accuracy, particularly when working above shoulder height or moving between rows. The benefits extend beyond comfort alone. Reduced fatigue helps operators maintain a consistent standard of work from the first row to the last, rather than seeing quality decline as tiredness sets in. For vineyards that value careful canopy management, this consistency can be just as important as outright productivity. Battery-powered systems also bring quieter operation, reduced maintenance and the freedom to work without petrol engines, making them well suited to vineyards where staff may spend long days carrying out trimming by hand. As labour remains one of the industry’s greatest challenges, investing in equipment that reduces physical strain can help make skilled manual work more sustainable. For vineyards that prioritise careful canopy management over covering the greatest number of hectares, ergonomic tools such as backpack-powered trimmers offer a simple but effective way to improve both operator comfort and the quality of the finished result. www.zanon.it/en/raptor/

DESKTOP www.vitifruitequipment.co.uk phone-alt 01732 866567 ENVELOPE vitifruitequipment@sky.com 50

Lightening the load

MACHINERY & EQUIPMENT

KEEP YOUR VINEYARD LOOKING ITS BEST First impressions matter. From wine tasting lawns and visitor areas to paths, terraces and hospitality spaces, Kress robotic mowers help keep your public-facing grass areas neat, professional and ready for guests, automatically. Less time mowing. More time focusing on your vineyard and your visitors.

Kress robotic mowers for vineyards Available from Crawfords Group

Talk to Crawfords about the right solution for your site.

www.crawfordsgroup.co.uk SEPTEMBER 2026 | VINEYARD

THE ART OF PLANNING Summer months are approaching fast, and harvest will be here sooner than you think. Itasca Technical Services’ engineers are ready to service your equipment and support everything needed for a smooth harvest. Don’t get caught out this harvest – book your equipment servicing now with our professional and experienced engineers. CONTACT US TODAY 📞📞 01233 510098 ✉ john.s@itascawines.com

Penn Croft Winery, Clifton Farm, Croft Lane, Crondall, Hampshire. GU10 5QD Tel: 01252 279830 / @itascawines