Vineyard September 2021

VINEYARD for viticulturists in Great Britain ™

SEPTEMBER 2021

Stealing the spotlight CLAIM YOUR FREE TICKETS & WINERY SHOW

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INSIDE ◆

Mobile services make sense

◆

Top medals for UK wines

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Matthew Jukes on subtly oaked whites

VINEYARD CONSULTANTS

• Vineyard sales & acquisition • Planning applications • Business plans • Environmental schemes • Grants •

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PlantinG, Trellising, Management, Consultancy and Labour As well as providing quality products, The Vineyard Store are also here to help, offering expert advice and access to the very best supplies on the market.

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VINEYARD for viticulturists in Great Britain

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www.vineyardmagazine.co.uk VINEYARD Kelsey Media, The Granary, Downs Court Yalding Hill, Yalding, Maidstone, Kent, ME18 6AL 01959 541444 EDITORIAL Editor: Jo Cowderoy vineyard.ed@kelsey.co.uk GRAPHIC DESIGN Jo Legg Flair Creative Design jo.legg@flair-design.co.uk ADVERTISEMENT SALES Jamie McGrorty 01303 233883 jamie.mcgrorty@kelsey.co.uk PHOTOGRAPHER Martin Apps www.countrywidephotographic.co.uk MANAGEMENT CHIEF EXECUTIVE: Steve Wright CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER: Phil Weeden MANAGING DIRECTOR: Kevin McCormick PUBLISHER: Jamie McGrorty RETAIL DIRECTOR: Steve Brown RENEWALS AND PROJECTS MANAGER: Andy Cotton SENIOR SUBSCRIPTION MARKETING MANAGER: Nick McIntosh SUBSCRIPTION MARKETING DIRECTOR: Gill Lambert SUBSCRIPTION MARKETING MANAGER: Kate Chamberlain SENIOR PRINT PRINT PRODUCTION MANAGER: Georgina Harris PRINT PRODUCTION CONTROLLER: Kelly Orriss DISTRIBUTION Distribution in Great Britain: Marketforce (UK) 3rd Floor, 161 Marsh Wall, London, E14 9AP Tel: 0330 390 6555 PRINTING Precision Colour Print Kelsey Media 2020 © all rights reserved. Kelsey Media is a trading name of Kelsey Publishing Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part is forbidden except with permission in writing from the publishers. Note to contributors: articles submitted for consideration by the editor must be the original work of the author and not previously published.

Where photographs are included, which are not the property of the contributor, permission to reproduce them must have been obtained from the owner of the copyright. The editor cannot guarantee a personal response to all letters and emails received. The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the Editor or the Publisher. Kelsey Publishing Ltd accepts no liability for products and services offered by third parties.

Kelsey Media takes your personal data very seriously. For more information of our privacy policy, please visit Kelsey Media takes your personal data very seriously. For more information of our privacy policy, please visit https://www.kelsey.co.uk/privacy-policy/ . If at any point you have any queries regarding Kelsey’s data policy you can email our Data Protection Officer at dpo@kelsey.co.uk.

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NEWS 8 HRH Duchess of Cornwall

congratulates Llanerch on its ‘incredible vineyard’

10 The sustainable and regenerative viticulture course

REGULARS 18 Decanter World Wine Awards Top medals for UK wines.

20 The Vineyard and Winery Show Official wine storage sponsor announced.

24 Matthew Jukes

The way forward for a vast number of English wines.

33 The agronomy diary

A natural defence against late season disease.

35 Meet the people

behind the wines

Profiling the careers of people working in UK vineyards and wineries.

36 The vine post

Is your vineyard visitor friendly?

37 Clarification of juice by floatation

46 Test performance of the

Sentia free S02 wine analyzer

48 UK harvest 2021

High quality yeasts and nutrients that can help speed up the process and reduce time while maximising the yield.

53 Machinery

Weed control between vines.

Front cover image: Danbury Ridge Wine Estate © Martin Apps, Countrywide Photographic

globe-asia vineyard.ed@kelsey.co.uk twitter @VineyardMagGB facebook VineyardMagGB

CONTENTS Features In conversation

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The British Wine Cellar was set up to plug a gap in the market and champion the ‘not on the high street’ wines – wines from smaller family run vineyards.

Wines that will rock the world

26

Danbury Ridge Wine Estate is already astonishing the wine world with its newly released Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vintages putting Essex, and the UK, firmly on the world stage.

Mobile winemaking services make sense

38

BevTech Ltd was formed 10 years ago to fill a gap in the UK market by providing the best winery equipment and mobile services.

Representing you

50

Members’ wines showcased to ontrade in an exclusive new series of tasting masterclasses designed to create stronger links between members and the industry.

Jo C

specialists Hutchinsons offers specialist Viticultural agronomy advice, guidance on nutrition, precision soil mapping and soil health.

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TRURO

From the editor

Benchmarking for success

The Vineyard

ALNWICK

eroy d ow

www.hlhltd.co.uk

In Oregon, USA, the annual Steamboat Pinot Noir Conference, which started over 40 years ago, gives winemakers a chance to benchmark their wines, through blind tastings, exchange of ideas and sharing of best practices. Steamboat has often been accredited with the with phenomenal rise to stardom of Oregon’s Pinot Noir – which is now reputed be amongst the best in the world.

The wines from Danbury Ridge Wine Estate demonstrate what can be achieved with the right location – along with great viticulture and winemaking. In my view, Danbury Ridge is setting new standards for still wines, they have already achieved remarkable accolades and glowing reviews for their first vintage, and I can’t wait to see how they influence the future of still wines here in the UK and on the world stage.

I have been fortunate to taste some outstanding UK wines recently, both sparkling and still – but disappointingly I have also tasted some real shockers. I have been rattling around this industry since its early days in the 1980s and witnessed a phenomenal leap forward in wine quality, so I am hugely disheartened when I taste wines that are poorly made, bland, simple – and quite frankly boring! Many sadly remind me of the amateurish wines of the early days. Maybe our industry needs the equivalent of the Steamboat! The WineGB Trade & Press tasting in September and the Vineyard & Winery show in November will both be opportunities for producers to try wines from their peers across the country – a prime benchmarking opportunity!

Wimbledon tennis usually coincides with vine flowering and both events seem to jinx the weather – with copious downpours, unwelcomed breezes and a dialling down of temperature. Hopefully there were enough favourable gaps in the weather to allow fruit set and the subsequent high temperatures of mid-July provided a chance for the vines to accelerate. I have frequently heard the expression, ‘it takes a lot of beer to make wine,’ - and I would imagine that the recent heat would make a cool beer at the end of the day very welcome.

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09/10/2020 10:24

Send your thoughts and comments

by email to vineyard.ed@kelsey.co.uk

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NEWS

HRH Duchess of Cornwall congratulates Llanerch on its ‘incredible vineyard’ Her Royal Highness The Duchess of Cornwall surprised guests at Llanerch in Hensol as she visited the vineyard to mark its 10th anniversary as part of her visit to South Wales with The Prince of Wales.

The Duchess congratulated owner Ryan Davies, who took over Llanerch 10 years ago, on his achievements over the last decade as she enjoyed a wine tasting. Her Royal Highness visited the vineyard’s hotel and met staff and local suppliers in Llanerch’s new restaurant, before planting a vine and enjoying a glass of the vineyard’s award-winning Cariad blush.

Speaking to Ryan Davies during her visit, Her Royal Highness said: “I’d like to congratulate you on the wonderful job you’ve done here at this incredible vineyard. As president of Wine GB, I’m proud to be part of wine growing in this country. We’re really getting it right in this country and giving the French a run for their money. I’ve loved my visit here and I hope I shall come back again to try your restaurant.”

Ryan said: “We are honoured that The Duchess of Cornwall chose to visit us during her trip to Wales to help us celebrate a decade at Llanerch. Her Royal Highness was particularly keen to hear about how we are expanding our vineyard, to see our new restaurant and – of course – to try some of our wines.

“Her Royal Highness was a joy to have at Llanerch and spent time talking to our whole team from housekeeping and restaurant staff to our wedding

> The Duchess of Cornwall and Ryan Davies

8

and events team. We also introduced her to some of our local suppliers who provide our restaurant with fresh produce every day. Her Royal Highness is passionate about British wines and it was fantastic to hear that she enjoyed our wine and was impressed with what we are doing at Llanerch.”

The Duchess of Cornwall met representatives from Miskin Eggs, Matt Fresh fruit and vegetables, Ty Tanglyst Dairy, Welsh Coffee Co. and SubZero ice creams in the restaurant.

Llanerch recently unveiled a 200 square foot extension to its award-winning restaurant and plans to plant a further six acres of vines at the vineyard.

Llanerch has seen tremendous growth in recent years, including the opening of the UK’s first vineyard hotel in 2019, offering 37 rooms and suites and meeting and conference facilities.

Ryan Davies took over the vineyard, which is one of the oldest in Wales, in 2010 when he was just 24 years old with no previous experience. He aimed to replicate the successful wine tourism models he had seen in vineyards in New Zealand and Australia, where vineyards are tourist attractions in their own right.

Since then, Llanerch has become the UK’s largest vineyard hotel and attracts visitors from around the world with its award-winning restaurant and bar, marquee and lodge wedding venues, on-site cookery school owned by Angela Grey, and popular wine tasting and vineyard tour experiences.

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Kenward Construction based in Horsham, West Sussex offer a full design and build service for your next steel framed building including composite cladding, concrete panels, roller shutter doors and bespoke designs to meet individual planning conditions.

Kenward Construction also offer a wide range of services offering a truly one stop shop for your next building project. Demolition, plant hire, access roads, drainage, sewage treatment plants, rainwater harvesting, paving, concrete floors/ slabs, walling and site landscaping.

To discuss your project in more detail email enquiries@kenward.co.uk or call 01403 210218

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Lab services • Pressing • Filtering • Bottling Riddling • Disgorging • Labelling • Storing

www.definedwine.com Outside Canterbury, CT4 5HL henry@definedwine.com

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NEWS

The sustainable and regenerative viticulture course

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A week-long ‘Introduction to Sustainable and Regenerative viticulture’ course will take place at The Dartington Estate, near Totnes in Devon from the 23 to 27 August.

The course is aimed at anyone in the UK viticulture scene, or thinking of getting into it, who wants to know a bit more about the alternatives to ‘conventional’ viticulture and has been conceived by Justin Howard-Sneyd MW. Participants will learn what makes for a healthy soil, explore tools for assessing and analysing their soils, and understand how different farming techniques will impact on soil health.

Based at Dartington for five days, students will spend a day at nearby Sandridge Barton Estate, and another day with vineyards in the southwest, including a half-day with Robin Snowdon at Limeburn Hill. Robin is one of the UK’s leading practitioners and educators in Biodynamic viticulture.

The course will cover the various certifications for sustainable viticulture around the world,

including WineGB’s Sustainable Wines of Great Britain scheme, and Chris Foss, former head the Plumpton College Wine Division, will be on hand to explain everything that this entails.

The soil experts of Schumacher College will explain what it means to farm ‘regeneratively’, and how this can be applied to viticulture.

On the final day, the course will include some of the business and financial aspects of sustainability and will dig into how to create networks of customers (locally, internationally and digitally) and how to use local food networks and the circular economy to make sure that your business is financially sustainable.

Throughout the course, students will also hear from a wide range of interesting people from around the world who will drop in via the power

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of digital media to share some thoughts.

Justin Howard Sneyd commented on the main attraction of the course: “We have conceived a highly stimulating week in which we will hear from some of the most interesting thinkers and practitioners in the field. This five-day course will provide students with the inspiration, the theory and the practical skills to take their first steps towards incorporating regenerative and sustainable principles into their farming.

“We all want to minimise our impact on the environment, and if the UK wine scene is to thrive, we need to be leaders, and to showcase how to increase diversity, to sequester carbon, and to leave the land healthier than we found it. We want to do what we can to help accelerate the sharing of knowledge.”

For more information visit: www.dartington.org/event/introduction-to-viticulture/

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NEWS

Artelium expands range to meet growing demand Artelium, a new contemporary Sussex wine estate with a forward-thinking vision for creative collaboration, is expanding its range with the launch of three new wines.

Artelium launched in 2020 and following the successful release of two award-winning sparkling wines, Curators Cuvée 2014 and Makers Rosé 2015, is now expanding the range to include three still wines.

Twenty Twenty Pinot Gris, Twenty Twenty Meunier Rosé and Twenty Twenty Chardonnay are a collection of wines from the 2020 vintage.

Artelium grows its grapes across the Sussex South Downs and works with some of the most respected winemakers in the industry to create exceptional English wines.

As with their sparkling releases, Artelium have used their creative spirit to produce visually stunning packaging, complementing the highquality wines inside each bottle. The labels feature delicate charcoal sketches and an elegant palate. This latest release aligns with the growing demand for English wines, with the category being one of the country’s fastest growing sectors.

The Twenty Twenty Pinot Gris is a single variety, single vineyard wine made from grapes grown by partner vineyard, Coombe Bottom, in West Sussex. The Twenty Twenty Rosé is crafted from Meunier grapes grown by a partner vineyard in West Sussex, Cheniston Vineyard.

The Twenty Twenty Chardonnay is carefully crafted from grapes grown across two sites, Artelium’s vineyard in Streat, East Sussex and partner grower, Cheniston Vineyard in West Sussex - an elegant unoaked expression of Chardonnay, showing the best of cool climate viticulture in an outstanding year.

Artelium Co-Founder Julie Bretland commented: “Following the successful launch of the award-winning Curators Cuvée 2014 and Makers Rosé 2015 sparkling wines at the end of last year, we’re excited to be adding three still wines to the portfolio. The Twenty Twenty Pinot Gris, Meunier Rosé and the Chardonnay each have their own distinct style and character, as you’d expect, but all three reflect the warm summer we had, and the skill and expertise of the growers and maker Owen Elias.”

New OIV President Luigi Moio, from Italy, has been elected President of the International Organisation of Vine and Wine for the next three years, succeeding the Brazilian Regina Vanderlinde.

The OIV held elections to elect its new President and the heads of its working bodies on the occasion of the 19th General Assembly held in Paris on 12th of July, 2021.

Luigi Moio is Professor of Oenology at the University of Naples and Director of the Vine and Wine Science Section of the same University. For over 25 years he has been involved in the sensory, biochemical and technological aspects of the aroma of wine. He is the author of around 250 scientific publications.

Write to us

Send us your thoughts for our new letters page to vineyard.ed@kelsey.co.uk

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New fizz on the block Boco by House Coren is Charmat method sparkling wine made in West Sussex using top-quality English grapes. By fermenting in a tank rather than a bottle, the wine can be released earlier, so it is bursting with fruit-driven flavours yet still showcases the crispness of English-grown grapes.

House Coren, the creators of the wine, wanted to release a Charmat method wine as it believes the style showcases the bright, fruity freshness found in English grapes. It also offers a more affordable alternative to the traditional method sparkling wines already on the market. The blend is 42% Reichensteiner, 29% Chardonnay, 29% Pinot Noir.

The name for the wine was inspired by Old Sussex regional dialect, ‘boco’ derived from the French ‘beaucoup’ meaning ‘lots of/more.’

William Coren, Managing Director of House Coren, commented “We love that English wine has become increasingly popular over the past few years, but we wanted to create an offering that was slightly more innovative and accessible without detracting from the traditional method.

The Charmat method allowed us to do that.

“Boco creates a whole different segment in the English wine market that we feel there is demand for. A different price dynamic, easier drinking and brighter packaging will all in turn appeal to a much wider demographic.

“We are delighted to debut our very first wine, which will be one of many in our future portfolio.”

William Coren, 32, runs House Coren vineyard with his family and planted 30,000 vines in May 2020.

Kinsbrook Vineyard releases new English rose Kinsbrook Vineyard, which lies just outside West Chiltington, Sussex, has released four new wines - three of which are from their 2020 vintage - including the wine producer’s first ever still and sparkling rosé wines.

KIN Précoce, Kinsbrook’s first still rosé wine, was made with 100% Pinot Noir Précoce. In the winery, the fruit was crushed and destemmed and given a few hours to macerate which lent the wine its deep blush tint as well as infusing it with vibrant flavour. Highlights include raspberries and cream and parma violets.

Its sparkling counterpart, Beckett's Rose 2016, enjoys hints of wild strawberries, lavender and redcurrant sherbet. Thomas á Becket rose bushes are planted at the end of every row in the vineyard, populating the site with bold pink blooms, and are traditionally used to warn of disease. At Kinsbrook they were cultivated by ‘borrowing’ cuttings from the family’s garden nearby – and so the name of the first sparkling rosé wine was inspired by Joe Beckett’s mother’s roses. A limited number of Beckett’s Rose 2016 magnums are also available.

The family-owned and run vineyard, founded in 2014, has also a Bacchus and Pinot Gris made in the heart of the Sussex countryside.

The KIN Bacchus 2020 is an unadulterated

example of the grape’s floral expression when it’s grown in England’s cool climate. The fruit was whole-bunch pressed and clarified in steel tanks to intensify its distinctive elderflower and acacia blossom aromas. Mouth-tingling acidity is offset by high natural sugars and subtle vanilla bean on the nose.

Meanwhile the KIN Pinot Gris is an honest and colourful expression of England’s grapegrowing potential. Direct in acidity while possessing a mouth-coating richness, the first vintage of this wine sold out in six months.

Precise winemaking techniques were used to spotlight its ‘luxe’ orange peel and white peach aromas and it can be enjoyed with almost anything.

“2020 was a remarkable year, the year of Covid-19 and the year the world stopped,” says Joe Beckett, who, at 28, is the youngest vineyard owner in the country. “In the vineyard, we faced extreme weather patterns including three nights of May frost and a 22° mid-summer temperature drop. The harvest came in beautifully ripe with small, intense berries. The resulting wine is packed full of character. 2020 will undoubtedly be remembered for its chaos and hardship; however, the wine from this vintage might just be some of the best ever produced in this country.”

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NEWS

New grants announced Growing Kent & Medway has announced £3million in R&D grants for projects that support inclusive economic growth and environmentally sustainable practices and innovations.

Funding grants of up to £250,000 will be made available to assist projects that aim to develop green technologies, processes or products for horticultural food and drink businesses across Kent and Medway.

A unique requirement of the funding application will be an expectation that businesses commit to delivering social value back to the region.

Whether through community engagement or by raising awareness around career pathways in horticulture, food production or AgriFood technologies.

The grants were announced as part of Growing Kent & Medway’s official launch at Fruit Focus on Wednesday 21 July 2021. They offer businesses operating in food production, packaging, processing or enabling AgriFood technologies the first opportunity to benefit directly from the programme.

Dr Nicola Harrison, Programme Director for Growing Kent & Medway, said: “The large-scale collaborative R&D grants we are making available will be awarded to projects that will help to establish the Kent and Medway area as a world-leader in climate-smart, sustainable horticultural food and drink production.

“These grants are an important part of our wider programme to build on the region’s reputation and international gateway status. We are investing in state-of-the-art infrastructure and research facilities, scientific expertise and enterprise growth to make this region one of the most dynamic, competitive and successful horticultural and agri-tech locations in the world.”

Priority innovation themes set out for the grant funding include: ◆ Minimising waste and maximising recycling ◆ Improving resource use efficiency and sustainability ◆ Increasing productivity ◆ Resilient food production, such as supply chain resilience and nutritional security ◆ Precision technologies, including sensor technologies, AI or robotics ◆ Solving the challenge of access to labour.

Oliver Doubleday, Chair of East Malling Trust, said: “Funding for research and innovation to support the horticultural industry has been at the heart of the Trust’s work for more than a century.

“Thanks to Growing Kent & Medway’s grant scheme, it will ensure the sector can make an even greater contribution to the development and sustainability of the local economy through the commercial application of science and research.”

Applications are open from 6 September 2021 and must be from Kent or Medway-based businesses, or businesses carrying out significant economic activity in the region, working in the horticultural food and drink sector or enabling technologies.

For more information about the grants and to find out how to apply, visit growingkentandmedway.com

Walk and cycle in memory of Simon Leschallas

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On 20th April 1971, the Wine Trade Sports Club organised its first ever Charity Walk over 12 miles around the City of London, during which a glass of wine was taken at each check point. £800 was raised.

Following this initial fundraising effort, in July 1973, The Wine Trade Sports Club Foundation was created.

Funds raised by the Wine Trade Sports Club are donated to the Foundation, who in turn make significant annual donations to The Drinks Trust (formerly The Benevolent). The walk has been a regular fundraising event over the years in various locations including Oporto, Bordeaux, London, Richmond Park, Three Peaks Challenge and the most recent walk at Hattingley in memory of Ben Campbell-Johnston kick-starting The Drinks Trust's Mental Health campaign which is still going strong today. To date, the Foundation has donated almost £750,000 to support people in the drinks industry.

This year we will be walking in memory of a

great friend, colleague and sports club member, Simon Leschallas, who died suddenly in July 2019.

Simon was a past master of the Vintners’ Company and the Worshipful Company of Distillers, as well as a trustee of the Wine Trade Sports Club Foundation. He was best known for his time working as brand ambassador for Champagne Bollinger at Mentzendorff. He was instrumental in sponsorship deals with the Open Golf, Royal Ascot, and the Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race amongst others.

In 2009, he formed a new company called St Aubyn Leschallas Wines Ltd, mainly importing Vondeling from South Africa, as well as taking on a role as brand ambassador for Charles Heidsieck Champagne.

Although Simon was best known for his work with Champagne, I am sure he would approve

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of a walk around English wine country, and Wiston Estate in Sussex have very generously given us access to their beautiful winery to host the Simon Leschallas Memorial Walk & Cycle.

We are inviting everyone to join us by getting together a group of friends, family and colleagues, set up a fundraising page via Virgin Money Giving, and come and join us on Saturday 18th September.

This will be a family event, with the walk being around 11km and a cycle which will take a similar time around the beautiful Wiston Estate and surrounding area at 10am followed by a barbeque.

More details will follow nearer the time. We are delighted that his widow Jo will be joining us.

If you aren’t able to join us on the day, you can make a donation at: www.virginmoneygiving.com/fund/ simonleschallasmemorialwalk-cycle

For more information visit: To register, please contact James Read by email james@jamesfinewines.com

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EVENTS

“Staycationers’ flock to the English Wine & Food Festival Over 1800 visitors flocked to the English Wine & Food Festival,organised by Thames & Chilterns Vineyards Association and hosted at Brightwell Vineyard, in the Oxfordshire countryside over the weekend of 10 & 11 July 2021.

In a relaxed atmosphere, with laid-back live music, visitors could taste and buy wine from 12 English vineyards from the local region, and enjoy locally produced artisan foods.

The event proved very popular with attendees of all ages, according to the MailChimp survey carried out by the organisers, with 83% saying they would attend the Festival in the future and

93% saying they thought it was good value for money.

From the survey, participant comments included: “Nice location, good variety of English Wines, relaxed atmosphere.”

“Open and airy festival. Wide variety of stands.

Music to enjoy. High quality food and drink.”

“Great experience from the cheery car parking and warm welcome to the moment we left. The whole Festival had a relaxed, family feel.”

“Loved it all – the chillout music, variety of stalls and the wine samples.”

Activities during this ‘stay local, buy local’

weekend included: wine tastings; wine to buy by the glass, bottle or case; tutored tasting sessions from a Master of Wine, Patricia Stefanowicz; more than 30 local artisan food and craft suppliers offering tastings and sales of their quality goods; and live music throughout the day.

The festival was the fourth organised by the Thames & Chilterns Vineyards Association, and the second hosted by Bob & Carol Nielsen of Brightwell Vineyard, Wallingford. The previous festival was held over one day with 800 attendees but clearly the popularity of this event has grown and future events are expected to be held over two days.

Photo: Claire Brooks

16

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www.englishwineandfoodfestival.co.uk

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17 S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 1 | V I N E YA R D

AWARDS

Top medals for UK wines The Decanter World Wine Awards 2021 results have been announced and show the strength of UK wines. Alongside one Best in Show medal, UK wines won two Platinum and nine Gold medals, as well as 81 Silver and 51 Bronze.

The UK Best in Show medal went to Squerryes, Late Disgorged Brut 2011, a Kent sparkling wine made from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. A coveted award as only 50 Best in Show medals are awarded globally. DWWA judges said in their tasting notes: “The drama and intensity of great traditional-method English sparkling wines is now widely recognised. What English wine creators are just beginning to grasp, though, is just how propitious their fine sparkling wines are for extended ageing, in large part due to the extraordinary, flavour-saturated acid profiles bequeathed by the long, luminous yet always fretful English summers.”

The judges awarded the late disgorged sparkling wine a score of 97 and the Best in Show trophy, describing its aromas as, “expressive, harmonious and refined after a decade of slow maturation.”

Two still wines won Gold medals. One Gold went to White Castle Vineyard’s ‘Pinot Noir

Reserve’ 2018, made with Pinot Noir Précoce in Monmouthshire, Wales. This was the firstever Gold medal won by a Welsh wine in the DWWA. The other Gold went to Kent-based Chapel Down winery’s ‘Kit’s Coty’ Bacchus 2019.

Platinum medals were awarded to two sparkling wines from Kent: Chapel Down Rosé Brut, non-vintage (NV), and Gusbourne Blanc de Blancs Brut 2016.

Seven sparkling wines won Gold medals.

They included Buckinghamshire winery Harrow & Hope’s Blanc de Noirs Brut 2015 and Surrey-based Denbies’ ‘Cubitt Blanc de Noirs’ 2014, as well as supermarket Morrisons’ ‘The Best English Sparkling Brut’ 2010.

Wineries in Kent enjoyed a particularly strong year, although 21 UK regions from Cornwall to Derbyshire and Conwy in North Wales were represented on this year’s medal table.

Sarah Jane Evans, Master of Wine (MW) and DWWA 2021 Co-Chair, said of this year’s competition: “You know that this is something that's been through a really rigorous judging process. We're not playing at judging here.

This is blind tasting. We have absolutely no

idea what the wines are and we're tasting them not only in panels together where we have to each discuss and think about them deeply, but then they go up to Regional Chairs who are experts in those countries and also have a chance to step back and decide whether they really are the right Gold medal winners.

Our dream for 12 years came true and with our first entry to Decanter world wine awards 2021 – with our Pinot Noir Reserve made from Pinot Noir Précoce vintage 2018 . To win a Gold was beyond our dream however this underpins everything we strive to achieve in producing quality Welsh wine. It’s been a rollercoaster of excitement, congratulations and well wishes from near and far, something that we will cherish forever.

Robb Merchant, co-owner White Castle Vineyard

> Robb and Nicola Merchant

18

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The full list of winners is available on the Decanter website https://awards.decanter.com/DWWA

We are immensely proud to have been awarded Best in Show at this year’s Decanter World Wine Awards, especially as we are the only English wine to make the list of the top 50 wines globally. This award is not only testament to our team’s hard work and expert winemaking skills, but it reinforces our place as one of the best Champagne and sparkling wine brands in the world.

Henry Warde, Squerryes’

“Then they go up to the Co-Chairs who re-taste and think again. So actually, that rigour, that independence is really, really a wonderful thing to have for a medal, so whether you get a Bronze, or a Silver or a Gold you can know it's been hard won.”

Stephen Skelton MW, Chair of the judging panel for UK wines commented: “Out of 149 English and Welsh wines submitted for the 2021 Decanter World Wine Awards, 12 of them were awarded Gold medals or higher, around the same as previous years.

The top five scoring wines (four sparkling and one still) all came from Kent wineries using overwhelmingly Kent grapes, with the others from Hampshire, East Sussex, Buckinghamshire, plus a remarkable Pinot Noir Précoce from Monmouthshire in Wales.

The top two scoring wines were a superb 2011 Squerryes Estate “Late Disgorged” Brut,

showing how well English sparkling wines can age, plus a relatively youthful 2016 Gusbourne Blanc de blanc, again showing what a few years of bottle age can do. The other top scoring sparklers were all from 2015 or older, which goes to show whilst having good stocks of older wines might be damaging to the cash-flow, in terms of quality, age counts.

Still wines didn’t fare quite so well this year, and whilst a Chapel Down Bacchus and the already mentioned Welsh wine got Golds, the Chardonnays on show could only manage Silvers. Maybe when the 2020s come of age, more still wines will merit Golds. Overall, the quality of wines entered was higher than ever, with only five wines not getting medals.

DWWA judges to international standards and any medal awarded is done so on the basis of genuine world-class quality, not just because it’s English or Welsh.”

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Matthew Stubbs MW judged on the UK panel for the first time in 2021 and commented, “I was very impressed by the overall quality.

I was expecting great fireworks for the sparkling wines, which we got, but also some excellent still wines, which demonstrates that the UK is not a one trick pony.”

In the 2021 DWWA competition more than 160 expert judges, including 44 Masters of Wine and 11 Master Sommeliers, tasted a record 18,094 wines from 56 countries.

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www.bdacollege.org.uk info@bdacollege.org.uk 19 S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 1 | V I N E YA R D

& WINERY SHOW

For viticulturists in Great Britain 24th November 2021

Kent Event Centre, Detling, Maidstone, Kent ME14 3JF

In association with

Vitifruit Equipment Sales and Hire

Elite Wine Refrigeration announced as official wine storage sponsor

Seminars

20

Elite Wine Refrigeration are our official wine storage sponsor ensuring that all wines for tasting at the Vineyard & Winery show will be served at the correct temperature.

Elite Wine Refrigeration will store all of the show’s wines in five or more specialist wine fridges on their stand, which will include the 100 wine tasting hub wines, the wines for Matthew Jukes’ tutored tasting, as well as wines that other stands will be bringing to the show – there is space for around 800 wines.

Elite Wine Refrigeration is a Cheshire based wine fridge and wine cabinet distributor, set up

by Callum Dooley and Cherry Yung in 2016. Elite Wine Refrigeration have grown and now have

small showrooms around the UK distributing some of the most well-known brands of wine cabinets and fridges, such as: Climadiff, Avintage, Artevino, La Sommeliere and Dunavox.

Many of the wine cabinets and fridges are able to sync with the well-established Vivino app, which is used by millions to access information about wine. Elite Wine Refrigeration are hoping to bring the new wine fridge from La Sommeliere to the Vineyard & Winery show, that not only records the wines stored, but has a unique light that illuminates the wine so that it can be easily found. This will be an especially useful to enable the organisation of so many wines at the show.

S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 1 | V I N E YA R D

◆ Planning to plant a vineyard ◆ Malolactic fermentation: when, where and how ◆ Enhancing your tourism offer ◆ High achievers: yield and quality Callum Dooley commented: “We have been championing English wine, specifically, since we started. By working with vineyards around the UK we can offer our customers discounts on their wines or free bottles with their orders. Acting as the Vineyard & Winery show’s wine storage sponsor will allow us to expand our reach across the country so we can work with more vineyards, on a larger scale, to help support the industry with reliable, cost effective, accessible wine storage.”

THE VINEYARD & WINERY SHOW

Dr Gregory Dunn and Dr Alistair Nesbitt to speak at the show

> Dr Alistair Nesbitt The Vineyard & Winery Show is proud to announce two international experts who will host seminars on the day. Seminar sessions will take place throughout the day, in affiliation with WineGB, and will cover viticulture, winemaking and marketing topics, along with a dedicated session aimed at new entrants to the industry.

Yield and quality are always a hot topic in viticulture and Dr Gregory Dunn will share his expertise during the seminar session titled, ‘High achievers: yield and quality.’

Dr Gregory Dunn is the head of the wine division at Plumpton College, training oenologists and viticulturists at undergraduate and postgraduate level. Greg completed his PhD in the Botany Department at the University of Melbourne in the 1990s. For the last two decades Greg has acted in a range of positions in research, education and training in the Australian wine industry, including for DPI Victoria, the University of Melbourne and the National Grape and Wine Industry Centre in Wagga Wagga, NSW. Greg is currently deputy editor for the Australian Journal of Grape and Wine Research. Greg has contributed to and led a range of research and development programmes into yield forecasting, yield development and yield management in vineyards.

Dr Gregory Dunn commented: “Securing profitable and reliable vineyard yields underpins a successful wine industry. However, yield is very much a multi-faceted issue involving, among other things, the weather, vine spacing

Get your free ticket to the show The Vineyard & Winery show will be an unmissable event for anyone working in viticulture and wine production in the UK. The new ‘expo’ will take place on 24 November 2021 at the Kent County Showground.

Organised by Vineyard magazine and supported by WineGB, it will be an invaluable opportunity for all viticulturalists, winemakers, suppliers and the trade to come together. There will be a packed programme including technical talks from WineGB, tastings of the UK’s top wines, lots of machinery and equipment to see – as well as a long overdue chance to network with peers.

Purchase your ticket on Eventbrite via the Vineyard & Winery show website www.vineyardshow.com

> Dr Gregory Dunn and management, how the site interacts with the cultivar, management of pests and disease and abiotic stresses such as frost. In a marginal climate like the UK it is doubly important that all of these factors are considered and managed appropriately.”

Dr Alistair Nesbitt will look at the future climatic conditions for grape growing in the UK in the semina , ‘Planning to plant a vineyard’, aimed at both existing vineyard owners and those considering a vineyard.

Dr Alistair Nesbitt, from VineScapes, is a Viticulture Climatologist with significant expertise in how weather and climate interface with wine production, globally. He holds a PhD in viticulture and climate science and a BSc and Master’s degree in Viticulture & Oenology. Alistair lectures internationally on viticulture – climate relations, consults to new vineyards, governments and the global wine industry, drawing on 20-years’ experience to help UK wine production businesses establish and operate sustainably.

Dr Alistair Nesbitt commented: “The UK viticulture and winemaking sectors are developing rapidly and the climate in which they operate is also changing fast. I am really looking forward to talking with attendees about both recent and projected future climate change and what it may mean for UK growers over the next 20-30-years. For those thinking of establishing vineyards in the UK looking to the future has never been so important.”

Don’t miss out

◆ Network with the key players in the UK wine industry ◆ Meet with industry experts ◆ Learn the cutting-edge technology and see demonstrations of the latest machinery ◆ Take part in the Matthew Jukes tutored wine tasting. The worldrenowned wine writer and columnist Matthew Jukes will present 6 still and sparkling wines. Tickets are £20 and the proceeds are donated to the Drinks Trust charity. (Numbers are limited to 120 – so book early!) ◆ Visit the Wine Hub and taste some the UK’s best wines – up to 100 different wines available to try on the day ◆ Attend the WineGB seminars – Expert speakers will cover viticulture, winemaking and marketing topics – aimed at new entrants to the industry as well as those already established ◆ Join some of the biggest names in the industry such as CLM, Hutchinsons, Vitifruit, Bruni Erben, Royston labels – and many more

21

SALES AND MARKETING

C al ler

In conversation...

Ga r y

When did you set up The British Wine Cellar?

We started seriously working on the business in 2019, but we didn’t launch until April 2020 – it was a couple of weeks into the first lockdown actually!

We were waiting for our premises licence to be granted by the council, but eventually we had to get our local MP to support us so that we could go live!

We decided to set up The British Wine Cellar because we just couldn’t find anywhere good to buy English wine – mainstream retailers didn’t have any variety, it was all sparkling, and it was positioned as an alternative to Champagne (i.e. special occasions only, but we don’t think English wine should only be drunk on special occasions). We really enjoy still wines, but trying to find easy places to buy those was tough – smaller vineyards often weren’t geared up for online delivery, or the delivery charges were huge. We just wanted to find somewhere that had wines from a variety of different vineyards, that made it easy to buy English wine.

We’ve both got retail/e-commerce backgrounds so while we were discussing this gap in the market, we just felt like we had a clear vision of what this English wine website should be – it should have a wide range of wines from across the country, it should include tasting notes and vineyard stories, it should have a low delivery cost – and it should make it easy to link English wines back to something familiar (e.g. this wine is good if you like Malbec, this wine is good if you like Sauvignon Blanc, etc). We ended up thinking “why don’t we do it ourselves?”– It all went from there.

The British Wine Cellar’s raison d'être

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Our focus is on small-to-medium sized English and Welsh vineyards. When speaking to the vineyards we had previously visited on tours, we found that many were finding it difficult to sell their wines – as big retailers have administrative and operational requirements that most vineyards just aren’t geared up for. So we wanted to be somewhere that really championed the smaller vineyards –Chapel Down is easily found in supermarkets, so we offer wine from small, family owned independent vineyards.

We make buying English wine easy and enjoyable. Whatever wine you fancy – a zingy, dry white, to a full bodied red, and everything in between – we have it. On our website, we have a filter for customers to select by “usual” wine choice – for example if they usually drink Shiraz, they can filter by Shiraz-style reds that are from England and Wales.

We would love to remove any and all barriers to drinking English and Welsh wine. We have wines for all tastes, we deliver both quickly and very cheaply and we match cellar-door retail prices.

We think what really sets us apart is our service – we like to give things the personal touch, and whether that’s adding a handwritten gift tag to an order that’s a gift, sending personalised recommendations for a party, or delivering something on a specific day, we really try to bend over backwards for our customers.

al ler

English and Welsh wine megafans, Natasha and Gary Caller set up The British Wine Cellar to plug a gap in the market and champion the ‘not on the high street’ wines – wines from smaller family run vineyards with interesting stories to entice consumers. Their mission is to make buying English and Welsh as easy and enjoyable as buying any other wine – and their business is going from strength to strength.

ha C as

Na t

The team

It’s a small team – just us and our dog Monty (who loves supervising packing orders). We met when we were working at Hotel Chocolat. Having a retail background has definitely helped – between us we’ve also worked at high street brands such as Harvey Nichols, Haven, notonthehighstreet, The Co-Op and Costa. There are definite gaps in our knowledge though – I’m sure every small business owner would agree that you never stop learning when you’re running your own business.

Increasing sales

We have seen a big increase in general awareness of English and Welsh wines. Overall, across the retail market, there is more of a desire to shop locally and support independent businesses; supporting British and English wine ticks all those boxes. It also tastes amazing!

Selecting wines

We try to make sure our range has a good mix of still white wine, light and full bodied reds, sparkling wines, at different price points. So we sometimes approach vineyards because we’ve spotted a gap in our range and we want their wines to fill it. However, a lot of the time, vineyards approach us – and often their wines are just so amazing that we simply have to share them with our customers!

Best sellers

It definitely varies throughout the year – red wines do well for us all year round, but particularly well in the winter. Sparkling wines have done really well in the last couple of months – people are celebrating coming out of lockdown and life hopefully getting a bit more normal! Our Sauvignon-style whites such as Bacchus are also really popular.

Tips for vineyards to help sales I would say definitely have a think about what the wine is similar to – is it similar to Rioja, is it something that a Chardonnay fan would enjoy? Linking it back to wines people are familiar with is essential for us. Also share your stories – people love knowing more about the independent business they’ve bought from, so the more information you can give us, the better!

Supply, demand and prices

By far the biggest obstacle people have when buying English wine, we find, is price. We completely appreciate that the cost of producing wine in England and Wales is so much higher than mass-produced wines produced by a giant corporation – and that if it were too cheap, demand would outstrip supply very quickly. But price is still really prohibitive to English wine being discovered by a lot of people. While demand is growing at the moment, it could be growing even faster if we could just work out ways to make English and Welsh wine at a more accessible price.

What have you done this year that you are really excited about?

We launched our wine subscription service in June – we’re super excited about this. We have five different plans to choose from – to suit taste preferences and frequency. We also include subscriber-only wines – exclusive wines that are not available on our main website. We got so excited when we had our first subscription order not long after it launched! We can’t wait to see this part of the business grow.

The future?

I think the outlook is pretty positive for wine production in England and Wales. We seem to get better all the time and hopefully bigger harvests will bring some economies of scale, so we can lower the price a bit. I think we’ll produce an even greater variety of wines than we do now, which will help too.

Consumer demand for British products, made by independent producers has never been higher – I really hope this trend continues.

Favourite wines?

Our favourite sparkling is the wine we had on our wedding day – Fox & Fox CV Chairman’s Brut – we were actually the first people to launch this back in April as our exclusive, so it’s doubly special for us. I think our favourite still wines change all the time as we discover new ones. We both absolutely love Winbirri Signature, Sixteen Ridges Bacchus and Whitehall Charlotte May Rosé. Gary’s favourite is Stopham Bacchus – he absolutely loved it the moment he first tried it. I’ve recently discovered Wayfarer Bacchus – I think that might be a new favourite.

What do you do when not running The British Wine Cellar?

Being small business owners, we’re never really not running The British Wine Cellar – it’s all-consuming. We both still work full time too, so we’re pretty busy.

But we don’t really feel like The British Wine Cellar is work, it’s a real passion of ours. Our main hobby has always been visiting vineyards, long before the business came along, and that hasn’t changed. Outside of wine-related activities, we love a nice long walk in the countryside with Monty, or if the weather is nice, just having a BBQ in the garden – the simple pleasures in life are definitely the best.

S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 1 | V I N E YA R D

23

WINE REVIEWS

w es Juk

Subtly oaked whites

Mat h e

The way forward for a vast number of English wines globe-asia www.matthewjukes.com paper-plane vineyard.ed@kelsey.co.uk Subtly oaked whites are fast becoming my favourite style of white wine. Neither too skinny and sour nor too hefty and oily, these wines manage to cover a vast landscape of flavour and they inevitably possess greater food-matching skills than those without this sometimes-undeclared ingredient, too.

Involving every style from those wines where you can sense a certain textural depth on the palate but cannot smell a single stave up to perfumed creatures where the carpentry takes turns with the fruit to romance the drinker, these wines indicate that this is the way forward for a vast number of English creations who have yet to find their mojo. For this reason, I do not have any 100% Chardonnay wines in this month’s column, however, the Chardonnay grape does pop its head up briefly in one of the wines. Instead, I have a cornucopia of grapes all blessed by the lightest of touches of the mighty oak tree.

My inspiration for this article came in the form of a wine which I understand a huge number of people liked and it even won a gold medal at the WineGB awards but I really did not enjoy it at all. I am aware that I am breaking confidence as I write the next few sentences but I cannot fully explore my feelings without doing so. I hope that owner of Hidden Spring, David McNally, forgives me for this indiscretion. David asked me what I thought of his 2019 Bacchus Fumé long before it came up trumps on the WineGB tasting bench. I felt compelled to explain my thoughts in email because a simple, ‘I don’t like it’, didn’t seem fair on this occasion. My expression was that it was ‘a little too smoky bacon for me’. While this is a clumsy way of saying that the oak was too pungent and that I felt that it didn’t sit well with the fruit, David didn’t mind a bit. His

In association with

wine sold out, so be it. Each to his own. A year later and the 2020 turned up and I nearly dropped my glass. I sent David an email immediately, this time with a little more of an upbeat theme – what had he done between the awkward 2019 and the graceful and ethereal 2020? He explained, in fascinating detail, how he decided to modify his oak recipe and I have to tell you that if this wine doesn’t

h

All proceeds raised go to

24

Vitifruit Equipment Sales and Hire

Sponsored by

c a e 0 2 £ S T E TICK

win another gong then I think that the world has gone mad! This wine and others overleaf are extraordinary examples of just how talented some of our winemakers are when it comes to intricately weaving oak into the core of their magical white proceeds go to The Drin wines. Long may thisAll last.

It is anotherraised sure-footed Trusts step in the direction of making elite, still white wines in our land.

& WINERY SHOW

TAKE PART IN MATTHEW JUKES’ STRUCTURED WINE TASTING

World renowned wine writer and monthly Vineyard columnist Matthew Jukes will be conducting a structured wine tasting for 120 guests at this year’s Vineyard & Winery Show. This is your opportunity to have an exclusive insight into the very best of British wines with one of the world’s leading wine writers.

TICKETS ARE £20 EACH.

S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 1 | V I N E YA R D

All proceeds raised go to The Drinks Trusts.

To book go to: www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/the-vineyard-and-winery-show-tickets-140979015029

2020 Flint Vineyard, Silex Blanc £19.99 www.flintvineyard.com

This wine has the most extroverted oak impact of this month’s trio in spite of the fact that winemaker Ben Witchell describes his vessels as ‘neutral’.

Made from a blend of 50% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Blanc, 20% Bacchus and 10% Pinot Gris, the fruit is whole bunch pressed and fermented in average aged, four-year-old American oak (although I cannot sense that it is American as opposed to French) and then it is aged for nine months in barrel, too. There is no doubt that the oak adds gloss, élan and exoticism as well as helping these four grapes to get to know one another very well in a relatively short space of time. The only thing it doesn’t add is actual oakiness, which is a relief. Partial malolactic fermentation further softens Silex and some of the Bacchus used is held back from the 2019 harvest and this brings a more mellow tone to this oft-angular variety. It is clear that Ben thinks deeply about how he assembles this wine not least because it is called Flint Vineyard, Flint White (Silex meaning ‘flint’ in French) – so good he named it twice! It is a chance for him to show off his 3D wine blending brain and it works because this is one of the most adventurous, challenging and, ultimately, rewarding white wines in the country.

2019 Albourne Estate, Estate Selection £14.95 www.albourneestate.co.uk

If any winery in the country thinks that they can live without oak in their armoury then they are mistaken and this wine will show you why.

Made from Chardonnay, Ortega and a dribble of Bacchus, this wine is a masterclass in assembling a thoughtful blend from delicate components in a sensitive and beautifully balanced manner. While Ortega (22%) has its own particular juiciness, the oak in this wine was only deployed in the Chardonnay component and it was done with devastating precision. Bacchus’s job is to come in on the finish in order to bring levity and a snap of acidity. The Chardonnay was kept on its lees in a mix of new and older barrels and this allowed it to build in succulence and faint biscuitiness without adding any carpentry notes whatsoever to the finished wine. The result is a harmonious and complex white with summer orchard fruit, gentle florals and nice citrus touches and, given the value for money, it is definitely one of the most discreet and yet intellectually stimulating white wines of the year.

2020 Hidden Spring, Bacchus Fumé £18.00 www.hiddenspring.co.uk This wine is simply superb! What a difference a year makes and while I know that the 2019 sold out in record time, this is a far superior and extremely well-balanced wine. As you will have seen overleaf, this wine’s predecessor was the inspiration for this article.

Had nothing changed at Hidden Spring, I would never have written up this fascinating wine, but the newly released 2020 is a superstar and so in the space of just 12 months it sits proudly on this page. There is no obvious oak here, but it definitely forms part of this wine. Nor are there any of the dry roasted peanut notes that I find on many world styles of fumé wines. Instead, the oak manifests itself as gentle spice, gingernut and herb details which temper the green notes found in the Bacchus and bring a more exotic and layered feel to proceedings.

This is very astute winemaking and it shows that David McNally can not only take critical comments on the chin, but that he also thought deeply about how to maintain his style while subtly changing the delivery of the oak flavours in this wine. He decided to pare back the use of American oak, which I disliked, and augmented the French, making sure that a lower percentage of new oak was used overall. Jackpot!

25 S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 1 | V I N E YA R D

EDITOR'S VISIT

Ed itor

Wines that will rock the world

Jo Cowdero y

The July editor’s column in Vineyard alluded to a wine estate that is poised to shake the UK’s future with its visionary still wines. Situated in probably the most exciting viticultural region of the country, Danbury Ridge Wine Estate in Essex is already astonishing the wine world with its newly released Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vintages – stealing the spotlight from the celebrated regions of Burgundy, Oregon and New Zealand - putting Essex, and the UK, firmly on the world stage with these noble varieties.

Danbury Ridge is family owned and run by Mike and Heather Bunker with their two daughters Janine and Sophie. The family had returned to the village of Danbury after many years in Asia, purchasing the estate before realising its potential for vines. After a feasibility study in 2012 that indicated its suitability, the first vines were planted in 2014, mainly Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and they were soon producing fruit with a ripeness previously unseen in the UK. These outstanding results prompted serious and ambitious investment and the construction of a state-of-the-art winery for premium wine production – but with inspiration from the small domaines of Burgundy rather than large scale production.

26

Recognising the value of expertise, the family have selected a small, but outstanding team who support their mission to produce world-class wines. Liam Idzikowski, since his degree in Viticulture and Oenology from Plumpton College, has gained over fifteen years’ experience crafting fine sparkling and still wines worldwide, including Langham and Lyme Bay in the UK. He has been able to help steer this ambitious project from the start. “I had seen this region’s ability to consistently reach very high ripeness levels and was very excited about the flavours that could be achieved with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. We now have more control and experience in the vineyard and have a winery that is designed to facilitate the production of world class still and sparkling wines. We have had a glimpse of this potential already with the 2018, 2019 and 2020 wines, which are all looking very promising.”

John Atkinson is the resident Master of Wine at Danbury Ridge with a passion for the local geology and terroir. With his extensive knowledge of the wine trade as well, he guides the commercial side of the business, which is run

by Sophie and Janine.

Joe Tingey is the estate’s Vineyard Manager and Liam is assisted in the winery by Engineering graduate Hugo Seacombe. “We are a small but fluid team, so we all pitch in. The team also includes my sister who has been involved in the project from the beginning. After a law degree she worked in several wineries around the world before gaining valuable trade experience working for Liberty and Bibendum in London,” said Liam.

With his extensive knowledge of the area’s unique attributes, viticulturalist Duncan McNeill is Danbury Ridge’s vineyard consultant. He also knew the potential of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay

for still wine production in the area. “These vineyards frequently achieve ripeness levels of 90 to 100 degrees Oechsle (° Oe) – some of the best in the country! This is partly due to the fantastic growing degree days (GDD) here, which are generally over 1000, and the drier late season. These factors, along with low yielding clones and suitable soils allow for an elongated growing season with long hang times – giving superb maturity and phenolic ripeness,” Duncan added.

“The business model is simple, but strong,” commented Mike Bunker. “Still wines are our primary objective and we focus 100% of our attention on wine production,” he added. “The wine trade in Britain is probably the best in the world, so why not use it. We concentrate on top end restaurants, many with Michelin stars, and sell wine to the consumer through carefully selected distributors. We want to remain premium and exclusive, so export is an important part of the future business model and we are fortunate to have good contacts in Asia and this also steers our branding,” said Mike.

“We now have 30 acres under vine on the estate and a further 60 acres in estuarine Essex, grown by our associate growers. This will be increased to 70 acres next year. We also work with a vineyard on the North Downs of Kent for our sparkling-base Chardonnay. We only work with growers who are prepared to push quality rather than quantity and produce exceptional fruit - with the shared ambition to produce world class wines,” commented Mike.

Lucky number eight

The branding is sophisticated with understated elegance, refined and distinctive, and subtly incorporates the figure eight – which is a lucky number in Hong Kong where the family lived.

With meanings of prosperity, high social status and business success, the number eight features widely at Danbury. “Our logo is an artistic interpretation of an eight, and our bespoke bottles have eight ridges. We wanted to keep <<

“We are a small but fluid team, so we all pitch in.”

Photos: Martin Apps, Countrywide Photographic

27

EDITOR'S VISIT

> Liam Idzikowski, John Atkinson MW, Duncan McNeill, Joe Tingey

<< the familiar silhouette of a Burgundy bottle but also create something that was very tactile and unique”, explained Janine. “My uncle built an eight-sided ‘Octagon’ pavilion in the 12-acre Octagon vineyard. Our vineyard on the east side of the estate is named after the Norse god Odin’s eight-legged horse, Sleipnir. We have 88 acres in total on the estate. But, that is a coincidence and wasn’t planned,” Janine added.

A geologists joy

John Atkinson has an extensive knowledge of the local geology, the soils and their influence on the vines. “Most of the estate vineyards are on soils formed of gravels over London clay. Although the clay soils can have poor infiltration, they have some unique properties, including a large chemically active surface area to give a high cation exchange capacity – which acts as a great nutrient magnet. They contain a volcanic mineral called smectite,

which is also found in Pomerol. Smectite has unusual hydration characteristics, allowing the clay to shrink, swell and crack. The poor infiltration means that any heavy rain at harvest just runs off so there is no berry swell or splitting. The cracking allows oxygen to permeate the soil facilitating root growth and water uptake under drought. Lighter gravel loams soak up the heat beautifully, and in the autumn, along with the woodland shelter belts, provide the warmth needed for excellent berry development and ripeness.

“I think there is such great potential for still wine production in and around the Dengie peninsula which is heavily influenced by the Blackwater Estuary and the River Crouch – it’s a unique place that allows Pinot Noir and Chardonnay to develop their own authentic characters and expression. The wines, made

by Liam, reflect this, especially as Duncan and the vineyard team carefully manage the

yields,” commented John.

The vineyards

The vineyards are carefully selected to suit Pinot Noir and Chardonnay either for still or sparkling wines, and there are also some small plantings of Meunier for the sparkling blend.

The unique mesoclimate, with 1000 GDD or more at Danbury Ridge, the clonal selection and cultural practices such as leaf removal and yield control, all help facilitate a long ripening to develop flavours, along with the cool nights to preserve the gentle acidity. The vines are all trained single- guyot VSP. The Octagon Block is the most established vineyard on the estate, planted in 2014, on land that was previously an orchard. “The 12 acres are planted with Dijon clone 828 and three German Spätburgunder clones of Pinot Noir. The clones were planted knowing they << produce world class Pinot Noir wines

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29 S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 1 | V I N E YA R D

EDITOR'S VISIT <<

“Danbury Ridge have wowed the critics with their inaugural still wine.”

<< and because of their loose bunches and thicker skins, which allow for long hang times.

Incredibly though, with experience, we have found the Dijon clones are also very suitable to this region even during wet harvests and we are planting more of these.

These all have loose bunches and thicker skins allowing for long hang times – but avoiding Botrytis. We do not have any Precoce planted. We also have German Chardonnay clones including D 258, which is particularly aromatic and Dijon clone 95,” explained Duncan. Our rootstocks here are SO4, 3309, Rivaria and Binova,” he added.

The 12-acre Sleipnir vineyard was planted in 2017, again with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

“The clones here include Burgundian INRA 777 and GM 20-13. The Chardonnay clones are INRA 76, 95 and Fr 155 – which gives intense muscat flavours, rather powerful but good in the blend. Most of the rootstocks here are SO4," said Duncan.

Mike Bunker was a keen polo player for many years but was persuaded to give up his practice ground to make way for the 4-acre ‘polo field’ vineyard. “The free draining sand and gravel meant it was dry enough even in winter to use for polo practice – unfortunately for the ponies this meant it would also be good for vines,” said Mike. The Polo Field is focused for still wine production with a 50:50 split between Chardonnay and Pinot Noir clones. Chablis clone INRA 548 was added to the estate for the first time in this planting.

The winery

“The winery is designed to be as environmentally sustainable as possible.”

30

The cutting-edge winery must be the envy of any winemaker in the world and Liam has been instrumental from the start in selecting the best equipment to allow for premium wine production.

Standing like proud soldiers, alongside the imposing six tonne Coquard press, are seven round conical shaped Nomblot concrete tanks, with individual thermoregulation. The concrete has a low and slow oxygen permeability that creates the perfect conditions for whole bunch and whole berry cold soaking and fermentation of the Pinot Noir. The Scharfenberger rubber fingered de-stemmer, gently removes the Pinot Noir berries, without crushing ensuring they remain whole and intact for cold soak and the Nomblot tanks are gravity-loaded through hoppers. After fermentation the Pinot Noir is pressed-off its skins with the one-tonne Bucher basket press.

“I aim for minimal intervention, no chaptalisation or de-acidification,” explained Liam. The Pinot Noir cold soak in concrete takes 3-5 days with the thermoregulator set at 4°C but the actual must temperature is around 8-10°C. The cooling is then turned off and the

Pinot Noir starts fermenting spontaneously with wild yeast before inoculation with RC212, a Burgundian yeast. The temperature is kept cool (below 24°C) to ensure a long steady ferment which retains freshness for up to 28 days, with gentle punch downs. The wine is then transferred to barrel and the barrel hall warmed to 15°C or 16°C, for the wines to go through MLF,” Liam added.

“After whole bunch pressing in the Coquard, the Chardonnay is fermented in barrel with full solids - where some barrels undergo a spontaneous natural yeast fermentation. The Chardonnay also undergoes MLF - and the barrels that don’t get underway with MLF are seeded with wine from barrels that are.

“The wines can stay in barrels for many months, some up to 18 months, depending how the wine is tasting and its condition, with no battonage. It is then transferred to stainless steel tanks for blending and storage.

The wines do not receive any fining and the Pinot Noir does not get filtered. Previously the Chardonnay had a very light filtration but we no longer feel this is necessary. I use a range of French oak barrels including Tonnellerie Francois Frères, Tonnellerie Chassin Père & Fils and Tonnellerie Rousseau. The length of time the wine is able to stay in barrel amazes me,” commented Liam.

The grapes for the sparkling wines are hand harvested and whole bunch pressed in the Coquard, with only the cuvée press fraction used. After cold settling the juice is fermented cool in both stainless steel and old French oak.

“We use minimal SO2 and no enzymatic or fining treatments. Depending on the vintage we may do partial MLF or no MLF at all. The reserve wine proportion will depend on the vintage, but typically between 15% and 40% which are aged in oak foudres or unlined concrete tanks,” explained Liam.

“I receive fantastic quality fruit from the vineyard with great composition. Our Pinot Noir typically has a pH of 3.35 to 3.55 with a TA of 5-6g/l and alcohol of 13% or higher after fermentation. The finished Chardonnay is usually around a pH of 3.2 to 3.3 with a TA of 6-7g/l and alcohol average 13.5%. This does take the wines away from what could be considered typical for English wines, but my main aim is to display the power and concentration of flavours that this terrior is capable of,” Liam added.

The winery has its own high-spec laboratory to enable the team to carry out all wine and grape analysis inhouse. This was done in collaboration with oenological lab specialists Dujardin-Salleron.

All bottling, labelling, and disgorging is carried out in house with lines from GAI, supplied by BevTech, and TDD from Oenoconcept. <<

> Liam Idzikowski

> Wastewater lagoon

31

The wines

Danbury Ridge have wowed the critics with their inaugural still wine releases. The first limited edition 2018 vintages include the Octagon Block Chardonnay and Octagon Block Pinot Noir, along with the 2018 estate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

The Sparkling wines

Where the still wines will be terroir and vintage driven from around the River Crouch and Blackwater Estuary, the sparkling wines will be focused on displaying the art of blending, combining rich Essex Pinot Noir and saline Kent Chardonnay.

The aim is to keep a focused range of just two blends – one Pinot dominated and one Chardonnay dominated, both will be non-vintage.

Sustainability

Danbury Ridge is very much a family business that is looking forward to providing a legacy for future generations – which already includes Janine’s two young children - and their sustainable principles extend throughout the vineyard, winery and business as a whole.

Danbury Ridge no longer uses herbicides in the vineyards. “We mechanically weed and bud rub during the growing season and have the assistance of Suffolk and Mule sheep to graze the vineyards over winter – with the added benefit of some fertilisation. The vines are mostly low vigour and disease pressure is low, and we use Integrated Pest Management (IPM) across all vineyards. To help build soil nutrients, the grape pomace from the winery is composted and returned to the vineyards and we also use pelleted chicken manure.

Some of the Danbury Ridge vineyards have drip irrigation. “These are not for yield but to keep stomata open and photosynthesis going to maintain ripening in areas where we can get some drought and water-stress,” explained Duncan.

The winery is designed to be as environmentally sustainable and energy efficient as possible to minimise the carbon footprint. “The above ground cellar is a ‘thermal envelope’ completely insulated and it maintains a stable temperature of between 12-16 °C year-round. The winery has solar panels which supply all the daytime electricity. We also have automatic light sensors to save energy,” commented Janine.

“Reduce, reuse and recycle is our ethos and our wastewater is treated in eco-ponds, or lagoons, installed by Living Waters, so that it is safe to return to the waterways. We collect rainwater also,” she added.

Danbury Ridge are long term supporters of The Woodland Trust and have an ongoing tree planting programme. “We have planted 8,000 trees on the estate including a Jubilee Wood for the Queen’s golden jubilee project,” Janine commented. “We also have a six million litre rainwater reservoir, which supplies water for the vineyards’ drip irrigation – and also includes a fishing lodge for my Dad,” Janine added.

32 S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 1 | V I N E YA R D

Rob S

AGRONOMY DIARY

ders un

A natural defence against late season disease

a

Elicitor products offer a useful addition to late season disease control programmes, when traditional fungicide options can be limited by strict harvest intervals. Hutchinsons agronomist Rob Saunders explains.

Controlling key foliar diseases like Powdery and Downy mildew during late summer into early autumn is often made more challenging given the various label restrictions on final fungicide applications before harvest.

Depending on the product, harvest intervals are usually at least 21 days to one month, but can be up to 63 days for those containing mancozeb. This potentially leaves vines exposed to disease infection during that period, a situation that is easily compounded if weather favours disease build-up, or if canopies are too dense, and/ or ripening and picking is delayed.

Once defoliation occurs, vines lose the ability to convert sunlight into sugar, jeopardising quality and the ability of vines to lay down reserves for next season.

It is during this period when there is little or no cover from traditional fungicides that elicitor products, such as Fytosave, could offer a significant advantage to growers. With no residues or lengthy harvest intervals, they provide a low-risk way of protecting crops in conventional and organic systems.

Preventative action

Elicitors are based on components that essentially mimic microbial attack (e.g. by a Powdery mildew pathogen) when they are detected by receptors in the plant cells, tricking vines into activating various natural disease defence mechanisms.

Fytosave for example, uses two naturally occurring complex carbohydrates called COS (Chito-oligosaccharides) and OGA (Oligogalacturonans). These provide a double alarm signal to stimulate the plant’s defence mechanisms.

COS is detected by cell membrane receptors as a “foreign” molecule from a pathogen, while OGA is detected as coming from damage to the plant’s own cell walls. The double biochemical

alarm works quickly (within 30 minutes of application) and spreads systematically around the plant, activating three main responses: 1. Thickening cell walls by depositing more cellulose and lignin, thereby providing a physical barrier to disease attack 2. Increasing peroxidase production to generate oxidising chemicals that are toxic to attacking fungi 3. Increasing salicylic acid production to manufacture more anti-fungal toxins.

Because of this action, elicitors must be used preventatively, before any disease symptoms are visible. They do not have a direct effect on plant pathogens, so are not something growers can turn to where curative action is required to tackle disease already present.

The recommended approach is to begin using elicitors earlier in the season, around pre-flowering, however the natural defence process can be initiated at any point in the growing season, providing no disease is present.

It typically takes three initial applications to fully build up the plant’s defence mechanisms with a product like Fytosave, so depending on disease pressure, it may be necessary to support the elicitor with conventional fungicide chemistry to prevent mildew coming in during this “build-up” period.

Once natural protection has been established, it should be maintained with regular follow-up applications throughout the remainder of the season up to harvest. Treatment intervals are typically every 7-10 days, although this varies according to the product and disease pressure.

Always check the recommended intervals between applications and maximum number of treatments allowed on the label.

In very high disease pressure situations it may be necessary to again support elicitors with conventional fungicides, and generally there is good tank mix compatibility with the main options to allow this.

Managing resistance

The benefits of an integrated approach such as this can be two-way, as elicitors help reduce the disease pressure that traditional fungicides are exposed to. However, because they do not act directly on the pathogen, they are not subject to the same resistance risks as that chemistry, therefore provide a useful resistance management strategy.

With the important multisite mancozeb being lost from the armoury and metalaxyl resistance becoming more widespread within UK vineyards, growers must support and protect remaining chemistry, so elicitors could be a useful addition to foliar disease programmes, this season and next.

globe-asia www.hlhltd.co.uk paper-plane information@hlhltd.co.uk phone-alt 01945 461177 S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 1 | V I N E YA R D

33

EDUCATION

Changes to staff

> Ana Dogic, Sarah Midgley & Deepika Koushik With the students either taking a well-earned break or working in vineyards and wineries across the country, this month we decided to focus on two important changes to staff in the Plumpton College Wine Division.

Ana Dogic (left) is leaving us after a little over 12 months. Ana took over the reins from Sarah Midgley, who took some time away on maternity leave. We would like to thank Ana for her excellent contribution to the winery and for teaching practical winemaking to our students.

Ana brought energy and expertise to the Wine Division and will be sorely missed by both students and staff. We wish Ana all the best as she pursues an exciting opportunity in the UK wine industry with her partner.

Sarah Midgley (middle) after giving birth to young Elliot, has returned to the Wine Division in a part-time capacity, and we are delighted to welcome her back. Sarah will focus on winery sustainability courses and guidelines, mentoring and targeted development activities for UK winemakers. Sarah commented: “I am very much looking forward to getting stuck into my new role which will also allow me to use my winemaker knowledge and teaching skills.”

Sarah and Ana are pictured with Deepika Koushik (right), who we welcome as the new winemaker at Plumpton College. Deepika was

34

awarded an MSc (Viticulture and Enology) from the University of California, Davis, an MSc (Applied Biotechnology) from the University of Westminster (high distinction) and has taught undergraduate students microbiology in India and the USA. Her winemaking experience includes stints in the Russian River Valley in the USA and Burgundy, where she was awarded the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin Award (2019). In addition to this, Deepika was the recipient of the INSPIRE Scholarship for topping her State in HSC level (equivalent to A levels) exams in India and was the recipient of the Mrs Ferooza Easwaran Golden Jubilee Prize for securing the highest grade in Microbiology (2013-2014). Deepika commented: “I am passionate about viticulture and oenology and I have a strong understanding of the science at its core and an appreciation for the tradition that comes with creating wine.”

The UK wine industry is one of the fastest-growing and most successful in the agricultural sector. So if you're interested in pursuing a career with a wealth of exciting opportunities, consider one of Plumpton College's degree courses, apprenticeships, or part-time courses. With the finest facilities and courses available in the UK, you'll be able to gain all of the knowledge you'll need to be successful in this highly competitive global industry.

Visit www.plumpton.ac.uk for more information S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 1 | V I N E YA R D

CAREERS PROFILE

, Gu & St ter

a rs

Meet the people behind the wines

Ch ris Wi lso n

Chris Wilson had been working as a wine journalist for more than a decade, so setting up his own winery was not so much a change in career as a diversification.

For Chris it’s a chance to make wine as well as write about it, to get his hands dirty – and escape from the laptop and spittoon! Gutter&Stars is a unique urban winery in a windmill, in Cambridge. But Chris doesn’t want to make run of the mill wines – he wants his wines to excite and intrigue.

Becoming a winemaker

I left national newspaper journalism in 2010 to study at Plumpton College and graduated in 2013 with a BSc in viticulture and oenology. It was three years well spent, not least the study tours and winemaking placements, and it cemented my desire to make wine. The fact that it took seven years to set up my own winery was down to a combination of starting a family, getting some really interesting wine writing gigs and finding the right location.

Gutter&Stars

Gutter&Stars is a small business - I am the owner and winemaker, but also the tea-maker, cleaner and everything in between. I continue my work as a freelance journalist writing for Decanter, The Buyer and Harpers among others.

The name, Gutter&Stars is taken from a quote in Oscar Wilde’s Lady Windemere’s Fan, a play I studied growing up. The winery is self-funded (no city investors here), so the name sums up nicely our ‘shoestring’ approach and situation. We may be in the gutter, but we are looking at – and indeed aiming for - the stars. There’s also a Fatboy Slim album titled ‘Halfway Between the Gutter & The Stars’ which is close to my heart.

There are music references in much of what we do, from the labels to how the ‘brand’ is presented online and across social media. The aesthetic is important to me, and I’ve worked hard with designer Ed Wright to come up with an identity for Gutter&Stars which is eye-catching and – I’d like to think – different from many other producers.

All the 2020 wines used fruit from Missing Gate Vineyard in Essex. This Crouch Valley vineyard is owned and farmed by the Speakman family who, alongside viticulturist Duncan McNeill, did an amazing job in the vineyard. The ‘I Wanna Be Adored’ Bacchus sold out in three days and coming up are a Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Plans are afoot for the 2021 harvest, of course, and I hope to increase production this year, using fruit from Missing Gate and I’ve also got my eye on some Oxford-grown Ortega. Uniting Cambridge and Oxford through wine, what could be more fun?

A winery in a windmill

The biggest challenge is getting equipment in and out. It’s a listed building with a narrow (ish) door so I can squeeze a barrel in but nothing larger than a 290L stainless tank. This constraint informs the winemaking to a degree as I am reliant on small batch production - which offers me many blending opportunities! I plan to expand production this year and there is ample space inside the winery for the extra barrels and tanks I need.

The customers

Cellar door and direct to consumer sales are an important part of my business model – so it helps to be in a characterful building that’s close to the centre of Cambridge. Social media, as well as the local press, has helped a lot in getting my story out there, and I’ve sold wine to all corners of the UK. Around 50% of the Bacchus was sold locally and the rest via the website and couriered to customers around the country.

Winemaking philosophy

I want my wines to excite and intrigue, I want there to be texture and bite…

I’m searching for savoury notes, pepper and punch rather than hedgerows and flowers. It’s important to me that each wine is different and true to the vineyard and the vintage. They must look sharp too.

Bright future for the UK – and East Anglia

I think sparkling wines will continue to bloom - but watch out for alternatives to traditional method; Charmat and pet nats are in the ascendancy and that’s good for the industry and – crucially – for the customer.

Looking at East Anglia specifically - still wines will go from strength to strength and Essex will become the hotspot for growing fruit for the UK’s burgeoning still wine scene. It’s already on the map, but from what I hear on the ground - over the next 5-10 years the Crouch Valley will fully stretch out its limbs. There are lots of ambitious plans afoot.

Norfolk will be another key area.

Top tips for a career in winemaking Get your hands dirty. Taste. Travel. The direct route isn’t always the best route.

Recent imbibes

Recent favourites include Flint’s Silex Blanc 2019, the Danbury Ridge Pinot Noir 2018 and Sugrue’s ‘The Trouble With Dreams’ 2015. When it comes to sparkling wine, Dermot is a magician.

Any spare time?

My time away from the cellar and my desk is filled with family life (I have two young-ish daughters), music, cricket, cooking, competitive Top 10ing - and planning the next adventure.

S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 1 | V I N E YA R D

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C her r y

GRAPE GROWING

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The vine post

Co e tabl

Is your vineyard visitor friendly?

Before your first vines are planted, there are myriads of items already on your checklist from site analysis, cultivar selection, frost/wind protection to soil preparation, nutrient balance and access considerations.

However, it is vital to also include a plan for your long-term aims: do you wish to host tastings, conduct vineyard tours or sell your wine through a cellar door?

The World Tourism Organisation defines tourism as: “A social, cultural and economic phenomenon which entails the movement of people to countries or places outside their usual environment for personal or business/ professional purposes.”

Visitors seek meaningful experiences which authentically connect them with the brand/their surroundings. Positive memorable experiences help to strengthen your brand and generate beneficial word-of-mouth advertising whilst attracting new visitors and more importantly, returning ones. It is incredibly useful to consider the following scenarios at the very beginning of your viticultural journey, however it is never too late to make improvements if your vineyard/ winery is already receiving visitors.

There are five overarching categories associated with any attraction being visitor friendly:

36

◆ Wayfinding and signage ◆ Visitor information ◆ Overall ambience/visual appeal ◆ Services and amenities ◆ Quality of service and professionalism In order to capitalize on your venture, you need to put yourself in the position of a visitor. Firstly, who is your target audience?

What is their age bracket, how far have they travelled, what exactly are they coming to see/ do? Assessing your site and brand as a whole, (vineyard, winery, cellar door, online presence etc) through the eyes of your visitors is the best way to highlight opportunities and any areas for improvement. A good tip for doing this practically is to take photographs. We often become so accustomed to our surroundings that we stop noticing the details; photographs are a great way to view things in a neutral manner.

At the very beginning of your journey, it can be difficult to visualize your end goal and your plans will naturally adapt with the process.

Therefore, it’s easiest to start by thinking of your brand as a general attraction before focusing on the viticultural specifics. All visitor attractions, (museums, galleries, garden centres etc) require a basic combination of services to allow visitors to enjoy themselves: sufficient and well-maintained parking areas, regularly cleaned toilet facilities and regularly emptied

bins. Accessibility options, including ramps and/ or lifts as well as appropriate lighting, (especially during winter).

Additional universal considerations include links with public transport, a café and a gift shop. Information is key; provide your visitors with details of where to eat and stay locally, give them maps of walking routes and allow them free wi-fi access. If dogs are permitted, ensure there are plenty of dog bins and mark their locations on your site map. Install regular signs asking visitors to keep their dogs on leads if required and consider putting out a bowl of drinking water for your four-legged visitors.

From a working viticultural perspective, it is important to have clear, obvious signage relating to moving vehicles, (including forklifts and tractors) warnings about spraying and restricted access areas. You’ll need to decide exactly where you’re happy for members of the public to walk, both through the vineyard and to view the winery, so that they don’t impede actual working practices. Where will you keep your machinery, where will you receive commercial deliveries and most importantly, where will your staff toilets and break room be? Access for large commercial vehicles is a priority from the beginning in order to physically receive your vineyard trellising materials and equipment, but do you want this to be the same access point for your visitors and potential coach groups?

If all of the above is not enough food for thought, it is worth considering how you can diversify your brand’s offering and collaborate with other industries/events. Examples include holding wildlife walks, art exhibitions and mindfulness classes through to hosting weddings, corporate events and outdoor cinema evenings. The opportunities and possibilities are limitless and the beauty of vineyards and wine is that they can enhance many other events.

Why is it so important to consider all of these tourism options from the very beginning when you really want to focus your excitement on the plants themselves? The ultimate aim is to sell your wine and for the UK wine industry to continue to grow, we need more and more visitors to buy English wine again and again. The more wine being sold, the more vineyards thrive!

globe-asia www.vine-works.com paper-plane sales@vine-works.com phone-alt 01273 891777

David

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Clarification of juice by flotation

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Clarification of juice by discontinuous flotation is a powerful tool for the winemaker that has been used in the wine industry for over 20 years. Previously restricted to continuous treatment for large installations, recent developments by equipment manufacturers have made this technique available to small wineries for batch treatment.

Advantages over classic cold settling are:

◆ Rapid clarification ◆ Good clarification including difficult juices ◆ Much lower energy costs compared to classic cold settling ◆ Performed at ambient temperature and so juice can be inoculated immediately. ◆ Reduced loss of sterols and other yeast micronutrients ◆ Ability to add bentonite for protein stabilisation pre-fermentation.

The method involves the flocculation of solids and suspended particles followed by flotation with inert gas to form a floating layer above clear juice. The clear juice is then removed with a reverse racking.

Pectin treatment

It is essential to treat the juice with pectolytic enzymes to ensure good juice clarity and floc formation. Most oenological suppliers now produce enzymes specifically for flotation.

Ensure that the pectins are fully broken down by performing a pectin test.

Flocculant addition

Once the pectins have been broken down it is necessary to add a flocculent agent to help floc formation and stabilise the foam. The most common agent is gelatine and this must have a high bloom number, above 80.

Isinglass can also be used to help floc development but not without gelatine.

There are now some vegan options for flotation, based on pea protein, potato protein and chitin.

But success is not always 100% guaranteed.

The flocculating agents need to be well incorporated. If using a pump, the tank needs to be turned over at least once. A rouser will achieve the same result more rapidly.

P h o t o: To

Other additions

At this stage it is also possible to make other juice modifications. In particular phenolic modifications by treating with fining agents such as carbon and PVPP. It is also a very good time to make a bentonite addition for protein stabilisation. Even slow settling sodium bentonite can be used.

Flotation

Once the flocculation has been achieved the flotation can be started.

Pump requirements for this are: ◆ Inert gas sparging unit on inlet with flow meter ◆ At least 6 bar working pressure ◆ A reaction chamber on the outlet ◆ A pressure gauge ◆ A pressure release valve To start the flotation, circulate the wine from the bottom to the top of the tank. Ensure that the return is below the level of the juice to avoid oxidation.

Set the gas flow rate to 30ml nitrogen per litre juice. i.e. for a pump of 5000 litres (at 5 bar) you will need 2.5 l/min nitrogen. Argon cannot be used as it does not have the same solubility properties.

Once the tank is circulating, gradually close the pressure release valve to increase the pressure in the pump head to about 5 bar. Re-adjust the inert gas flow rate to the correct setting. The tank needs to be turned over for one entire volume i.e. for a 5000 l/hr pump; 5000 litres and 1 hour.

After flotation the pump is stopped, and the tank left for at least two hours for the lees to float to the surface. It is possible to leave if for up to 12 hours before the particles start to sink.

Racking

Racking of the clear juice is done from the bottom of the tank using a site glass. The cut-off point from clear juice to floating lees (flees) is normally very sharp.

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The lees remaining in the tank will appear to be of a significant volume. However, it is mainly composed of air and the liquid volume is quite small. It can also be quite difficult to wash out.

The flotation pump can be used for other winery duties

Conclusion

Discontinuous flotation is a quick and efficient method of juice clarification that has very few disadvantages. The capital cost is low and operating costs much lower than classic cold settling. It is also easier for unskilled operators as the cut-off point is quite precise. At BevTech we can supply a range of pumps from 3000 l/hr upwards.

> Flees

> Flocs

> Setup

Practical observation

As soon as the racking is finished the juice can be inoculated, with no need to wait. The juice for treatment should not have started fermentation.

This makes the process inefficient and the juice clarity poor.

globe-asia www.bevtech.co.uk phone-alt David Cowderoy 01444 411141 / 07400 208205 paper-plane david@bevtech.co.uk S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 1 | V I N E YA R D

37

WINEMAKING

Mobile winemaking services make sense BevTech Ltd was formed 10 years ago to fill a gap in the UK market by providing the best winery equipment and mobile services.

David Cowderoy’s winemaking experience has now spanned five decades, and he has an enviable – and invaluable - gold mine of production knowledge. David’s company, BevTech Ltd was formed 10 years ago to fill a gap in the UK market by providing the best winery equipment and mobile services – supported by winemaking expertise.

Vineyard finds out how David’s open and honest approach to business means that his extensive knowledge provides his clients with unique support, as well as logical costeffective solutions for their wine production ventures.

David Cowderoy grew up in one of the UK’s earliest vineyards, Rock Lodge in West Sussex, which was planted in 1963 by his father, Norman

Cowderoy - one of the industry’s forefathers and pioneers. The vineyard is now managed by Plumpton College. After a post graduate diploma in viticulture and oenology from Australia’s Roseworthy College in the 1980s, David has now made wine in countless countries and regions around the world - and at more wineries than he can remember. “Plus a few I would rather forget,” laughed David.

“Although I was fortunate enough to experience vinegrowing and winemaking from an early age at Rock Lodge Vineyard, I chose winemaking as a career because it is multidisciplined, it incorporates science and practical skills, as well as creativity and artistry. I love the seasonal nature of wine production, the fact that every year is different keeps it fresh and

challenging – and I enjoy the finished product!

“I set up BevTech after returning from winemaking in France in 2011. I was providing consultancy to a UK vineyard setting up a winery and it quickly became apparent how poorly served the industry was with UK-based equipment suppliers – particularly those that actually knew about winemaking and were able to give good advice and appropriate solutions. I also saw that many smaller wineries could not justify the cost of a consultant, so through BevTech, I could also provide advice and help with improving wine quality – which of course is good for the industry as a whole,” commented David.

“I spent sometime researching and visiting potential suppliers in Europe, to find those with Photos: Ian Pack

38

excellent quality and value for money – and of course top after sales service. I am very happy with the partners we have at the moment and have an excellent working relationship.

“The first company I linked up was SK Škrlj from Slovinia who manufacture tanks and presses as I was most impressed by their facilities and quality which rivals the best from Germany, Italy or France, but at a very competitive price.

“The next was a chance encounter at a trade fair where I met Luigi Mori . Mori’s range of crushers, de-stemmers and must pumps have some excellent design features are well engineered and yield very good results, preserving fruit quality. Their range extends beyond the winery and I now also supply their grape harvest trailers,” added David.

BevTech clients represent a broad spectrum of UK wine producers from new entrants to, as David says, “the old hands who have been in this game as long as I have – and are now firm friends!” After 40 years of winemaking around the world David has gained plenty of knowledge and experience – but admits: “ Being a poor salesman – but hopefully this means I give good honest advice!”

“I think we can all agree that it is currently a very exciting time in the industry. I have >> worked all over the world and see many

<<

Plant and equipment for the beverage industry and food sector

High Solids Crossflow Filter

Wine Crossflow Filter

Wine Continuous Tartaric Stabilization System

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padovan@tmcigroup.com

39 S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 1 | V I N E YA R D

WINEMAKING

<< regions as rather stale and stagnant, but the UK is innovative, dynamic and energetic – it’s both refreshing and gratifying to be involved in the UK industry,” said David.

Winery equipment for winemakers

BevTech specialises in supplying winery equipment and services, including mobile services to UK wine producers. “Equipment can be as simple as a pump or complete turn-key winery installations. Our ethos is to ensure that the customer gets the appropriate equipment for their situation – which is not necessarily the most expensive. With our understanding of winemaking, we spend a lot of time talking about a customer’s requirements, for now and in the future, for their individual situation, their wine styles, markets, and even workforce, in order to propose the solutions that will work best for them,” explained David.

Quality at the forefront

S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 1 | V I N E YA R D

The most recent addition to the range of suppliers to BevTech is Ayres vini, who are a collaborative group of several complimentary companies. “We had been working with Sparkling Equipment for some time, who are the major supplier of disgorging equipment in Cava. We also represent O.M.B.F., from Italy, who manufacture corking, wiring and filling machines. Ayres vini is an association with these two companies, plus CMP, suppliers of riddling machines and Fileurope, for stillages – so we now have an end to end supply capability. The real beauty of this collaboration is that the engineers of each company know the others equipment – so can ensure seamless operation,” added David.

Mobile bottling and labelling

Mobile services are a common feature in most wine regions around the world as they make good business sense – it’s usually better to use a contract service rather than invest in high-cost capital equipment that is only used a few times a year. “I was familiar with mobile services from working abroad and knew the advantages. BevTech’s first service was the GAI mobile bottling line in 2015, and it has hardly stood still, as throughput has increased year on year as the industry and wine volumes grow. Producers are realising the advantages of using mobile contract services, not just the cost, speed and convenience, but the benefits of skilled operators and premium equipment, such as the GAI, that preserves the wine quality. I think we are currently bottling, and labelling, close to a quarter of all the wine produced in the UK – both still and bottle fermented sparkling, with screw cap, cork or crown caps. There has been so much demand that I am now purchasing another GAI bottling line for next year. We will also have capabilities for >> Stelvin Lux and Vinolok,” commented David.

“It’s both refreshing and gratifying to be involved in the UK industry.”

“Anyone who has worked in wineries around the world will have come across equipment from GAI, and will know it’s reputation for quality,” commented David. For BevTech, it was a major coup to win this agency. “I was absolutely delighted when we agreed this with GAI. I think that as I am a winemaker we could communicate about the things that really matter.

Many of their staff are winemakers or from winemaking families.”

As David explains, the GAI factory near Turin is state of the art. “As you wander round the factory, you come across robotised forklifts silently transporting components around the place and the odd technician with an iPad controlling a bank of lathes. It’s quite eerie.” The technology doesn’t stop there. “The parts picking is modelled on that used for VW and is highly automated. They even have automated picking of their stationary.”

40

Latest in the lineup

Stainless steel tanks and process systems

www.sk-skrlj.com

More than 50 years of experience in the production of winemaking, beer brewing, and process industry equipment.

Wine Tanks Fermenters Pneumatic Presses

Distributed through our UK agent: BevTech Ltd Unit 2 Moonhill Farm, Haywards Heath, RH17 5AH, T. 01444 411141

WINEMAKING Mobile filtering

<< “Last year we introduced a mobile filtering service, using a Padovan TMCI, 60m2 crossflow which filters 40hl/hour, and can operate 24 hours a day. It is also suitable for filtering small batches, such as 1000 litres. We immediately saw a huge interest as producers find that the mobile crossflow is much easier than other filtration methods, with lower losses and, when needed, sterile filtration is guaranteed,” said David.

Mobile juice recovery from lees

There can be significant losses in the winery if it is not equipped to recover juice from the lees. “A new mobile service from BevTech, to be introduced this harvest, is juice recovery from lees, with the Padovan Dynamos rotary crossflow filter. In fact, I wrote about this in Vineyard magazine in July 2021, the article is called ‘A new way to handle your bottoms’ – and there has already been a lot of interest, which makes sense as juice is valuable!” David added.

Mobile cold stabilisation

Another new service from BevTech this year is a cold stabilisation unit, from Padovan which will be on display at the Vineyard & Winery show in November. “This performs continuous cold stabilisation by the contact process, and with a throughput of up to 400 hl/day, not only is it fast but economical as its energy consumption is far less than batch treatment,” explained David.

Charmat sparkling service

Charmat method sparkling wines undergo secondary fermentation in a closed pressure tank, rather than a bottle. The number of Charmat method sparkling wines in the UK is increasing, with some rather large volumes entering the market and BevTech is currently the only contract winery able to offer this service.

“Charmat is a particularly exciting development in the industry for me.

Many years ago, I was at the forefront of traditional method sparkling wine in the UK, so it’s apposite that I should now be leading the charge with Charmat productions! We are doing production for more and more clients creating some very interesting styles with extremely high quality – and this year I plan to make our own.

“From a winemaking perspective there is no difference to carrying out >>

42

globe-asia www.bevtech.co.uk phone-alt David Cowderoy 01444 411141 / 07400 208205 paper-plane david@bevtech.co.uk S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 1 | V I N E YA R D

Distributed through our UK agent: BevTech Ltd Unit 2 Moonhill Farm, Haywards Heath, RH17 5AH, T. 01444 411141

WINEMAKING

> David Cowderoy << the fermentation in a bottle or a large tank – apart from the fact that the winemaker has more control over the process in tank – the winemaking is still a skill. The winemaker can easily add nutrients, stir lees, or if needed re-inoculate – all of which are impossible when the second fermentation is in a bottle. Bottling is more challenging, but we have a GAI counter pressure filling line for bottling Charmat sparkling wines or any beverage that is under pressure.

“If a winery plans to keep a bottle fermented wine on lees for the minimum required time of nine months, then I don’t understand why they wouldn’t choose the Charmat method as the results would be the same or actually better,” David added.

Lower alcohol and wine in cans

44

“I am planning to do some trials on Charmat with lower alcohol, as I think this is an interesting and very real consumer-led trend in wine. There is an opportunity, in wines such as Charmat with high dissolved CO2, to produce a balanced product with less than 10% alcohol - which doesn’t impact on the flavour profile and is not noticeable by the consumer.

“Providing a canning service is something I keep picking up and putting down. Wine in cans is potentially a very interesting product for the UK and

S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 1 | V I N E YA R D

one that is only just starting to be explored. However, I have no immediate plans to add a canning line – as so far, my hopes have been dashed by a global shortage of cans,” exclaimed David.

Challenges ahead

“Lots of producers will hate me for saying this but the industry has to keep in mind the risks of over production, producing more wine that we can sell. It has happened to almost every other wine producing country and its completely naïve to think it won’t happen in the UK – the question is not if, but when, and how we can prepare for it,” David warned.

Last imbibe?

Gusbourne Estate 2015 Boot Hill Pinot Noir – an absolute delight and great to see how English Pinot Noir can age so beautifully.

Any spare time?

Training and rowing competitively – now on the Master’s circuit – takes up most of my spare time, and I have also taken up archery recently. I enjoy a nice long walk with my Border Collie, Monty (short for Montepulciano!) – particularly if followed by a good pub lunch.

9-01-2014

18:19

Pagina 1

MACCHINE IMBOTTIGLIATRICI

And we have been taking part in it since 1946 with a continuous R&D, building every single part of our machines with care and passion. The quality that begins in the vineyard finishes in the bottling process because Gai works side by side with the biggest world wine producers being bound to them thanks to a thick web of more than 100 foreign importers and assistance centers.

Scriba Studio / ph Paolo M archis io

UK-DAVID COWDEROY pubb 148,5x210 [2014]

Thanks to our R&D, today we are able to face the bottling with two monoblocs only: one for rinsing, de-aerating, filling, gas injecting, closing the bottle and the other for washing, drying, capsuling and labelling.

A research that started 60 years ago, an ongoing one.

GAI SINCE 1946 • BOTTLING LINES FROM 1.000 TO 15.000 B/H frazione Cappelli 33/b - 12040 Ceresole d’Alba (Cn) Italia tel. 0172 574416 - email: gai@gai-it.com - www.gai-it.com

BEVTECH LTD • David Cowderoy, tel: 01444 411141 email: david@bevtech.co.uk • www.bevtech.co.uk

DISGORGING AND DOSING MACHINE

CORKING AND WIRE-HOODING MACHINE

NECK FREEZER

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AUTOMATED RIDDLING CAGE

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Sparkling Equipment David Cowderoy +44 1444 41 11 41 david@bevtech.co.uk

Specialist in supplying riddling machine, riddling cages and storage cages, vision system.

Specialist in supplying neck freezer, disgorger and doser, transfer machines.

Specialist in supplying corker/ wirehooder, liqueur mixer, capsuling machines.

45 S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 1 | V I N E YA R D

WINEMAKING

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Test performance of the Sentia free SO2 Wine Analyzer

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Comparable to established laboratory and winery methods.

Small, medium and large-scale winery operations use different methods in determining free SO2 in wine samples. Many of these tests use industry accepted methods such as Aeration Oxidation. The Aeration Oxidation method relies on a transfer of unbound sulphur dioxide from the wine through an airstream to a capture vessel where the SO2 is fixated by oxidation with hydrogen peroxide. The Sentia free SO2 Wine Analyzer is a hand-held device for rapid on the spot results for free SO2 from a single drop of wine.

This external validation study(1), conducted as per CLSI EP09-A3 guidelines(2), assessed the Sentia free SO2 Analyzer against an established laboratory method (Aeration Oxidation – A/O Method).

Summary

Method comparison between the Sentia free SO2 Analyzer and the A/O method demonstrated good correlation (r2=0.91). Standard error was 4.3 mg/L. Repeatability for red wine was 2.0% (CV) and for white wine it was 1.8% (CV) and was found to be well within laboratory industry standard acceptance precision.

Laboratory/winery utility

The Sentia free SO2 Analyzer is intended for in-winery testing of free SO2 in wine samples by personnel without the requirement for specialist skills or the need for sample collect and return.

It is a reliable, convenient, easy-to-use handheld instrument with enhanced features designed to assist operators during the testing process: ◆ Fast results (less than a minute) across the 350 mg/L reporting range ◆ Small, 8 μL sample size ◆ Push-button ejection of used test strips to minimize user interaction ◆ No need for any reagent pre-mixing – just apply the wine sample and go ◆ Easy-to-use colour touchscreen interface and clear display of results as mg/L or ppm units ◆ Integrated strip lot identification to facilitate rapid, error-free calibration data capture (calibration free system) ◆ Seamless, secure data download via WiFi connection

Technology

The Sentia System which includes the Analyzer and the consumable test strip have been designed and developed using Universal Biosensors’ pedigree of medical device expertise.

The analyzer uses the same platform as Universal Biosensors’ other medical devices and the test strip is manufactured on the same equipment used to manufacture other medical device consumable products. This allows Sentia to deliver a testing solution that is on par with any of its other previous products delivered in the medical device field.

Unlike glucose and fructose enzymatic tests, the free SO2 strip uses voltammetry instead of amperometry, which in this case means observing electrical current as a function of voltage rather than time – specifically, square wave voltammetry.

When wine is added to the strip, it dissolves dried down reagents on the strip. The dried down acid automatically adjusts the pH of the sample so that the hydrogen sulphite gets converted to sulphur dioxide. This becomes directly reduced at the electrode when the square wave waveform is applied. The data obtained is analysed to generate “differential current vs voltage” data which contains a peak around 600 mV. The height of this peak correlates to the concentration of sulphur dioxide in the wine sample.

Study purpose

The free SO2 test on the Sentia Analyzer must demonstrate sufficient performance against the laboratory reference method to be complementary in the context of a winery setting.

The results – in terms of precision and low bias – facilitate optimal use of the analyzer for decision making purposes.

The study investigated: ◆ Agreement versus a proven reference laboratory method used for free SO2 testing and reporting (accuracy) ◆ Repeatability (precision)

Methods Method comparison

107 wines comprising 51 red wines and 56 white wines were tested as part of this study.

Any varietal was capped at a maximum of 10

46

globe-asia www.BruniErben.co.uk phone-alt 07805 081677 paper-plane Mark.Crumpton@BruniErben.co.uk

mparison

Table 1 – Sentia Analyzer versus Aeration Oxidation method comparison regression statistics and bias based on mean values Slope (95% CI)

Intercept (95% CI)

Correlation Coefficient (r)

Coefficient of Determination (r2)

Standard error (mg/L)

1.159 (1.087, 1.230)

-4.123 (-5.057, 3.189)

0.955

0.91

4.3

Table 2 – Sentia free SO2 performance for a red and DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSION

White

30.48

1.8%

Win test con labis co effic use

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Slope: 1.159 (95% CI 1.087 to 1.230) > Tableanalysis 2: Sentia free SO2 performance forexcellent a red and white wine Data demonstrates precision reproducibility study (CLSI EP05-A3 5 Day Study).

• with Intercept: -4.12 (95% CI 2.0% -5.06and to -3.19) repeatability CVs of 1.8% for red and white wine respectively.

Table 2 – Sentia free SO2 performance for a red and to not overly skew the data in any one way. At Discussion and test at the point-of-use to monitor free SO2 • conclusion Coefficient of determination (r2) ≥0.91 white wine reproducibility study (CLSI EP05-A3 5 Day > Table 1: Sentia Analyzer versus Aeration Oxidation method REPEATABILITY comparison regression statistics and bias based on mean values

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to itsWine intended use with wine samples. Over Type Mean (mg/L) Repeatability Repeatability the measuring range, the following CV Weighted SD Linear Red Least Squares regression results were 16.86 2.0% 0.33 presented: •

concentrations in wine samples. The reliable, The Sentia Analyzer was validated according Standard error 4.3 mg/L. Testofrepeatability performance the Sentia Analyzer is to its intended use with wine samples. Over the was lab-quality complemented its speed, simplicity, measuring range, the following wasWeighted ≤2.0%Linear CV, well below thebycriterion of efficiency, Repeatability and overall practicality in point-of-use settings.

Least Squares results were presented: SD regression acceptance. ◆ Slope: 1.159 (95% CI 1.087 to 1.230) 0.33 ◆ Intercept: -4.12 (95% CI -5.06 to -3.19) Winery personnel can confidently use Institute, the Waite Precinct, (1) AWRI - The Australian Wine Research 0.54 Hartley Grove cnr Paratoo Road, Urrbrae (Adelaide) SA 5064 ◆ Coeffi cient of determination test (r2) at ≥0.91 the point-of-use to monitor free SO2 (2) CLSI EP09-A3 Measurement Procedure Comparison and Standard error was 4.3 mg/L. Test repeatability Bias Estimation Using Patient Samples, 3rd Edition (Clinical and concentrations in wine samples.The reliable, Data precision Laboratory Standards Institute) One redanalysis and one whitedemonstrates wine from the same lotexcellent was ≤2.0% CV, well below the criterion of lab-quality performance of Evaluation the Sentia (3) CLSI EP05-A3 of Precision ofAnalyzer Quantitative with repeatability CVs of 2.0% for red were tested as per CLSI EP05-A3 guidelines(3) to and 1.8% acceptance.

Measurement Procedures, 3rd Edition (Clinical and Laboratory is dently complemented byStandards its speed, simplicity, Institute) and whitewithin wine assess variation therespectively.

Sentia System. Three Winery personnel can confi use the efficiency, and overall practicality in point-ofdifferent test strips lots were tested for five days use settings. with two runs per day.

The above study was conducted using test strips References and analyzers manufactured on validated lines. the external site (1) a wine sample was tested on a Sentia Analyzer and simultaneously tested on the reference (Aeration Oxidation).

Wine Type method Mean (mg/L) Repeatability Subsequent data analysis was performed by CV Universal Biosensors Pty Ltd (Rowville, Victoria, Red 16.86 2.0% Australia).

White 30.48 1.8%

Study).

Repeatability

Results Method Comparison

(1)

AWRI - The Australian Wine Research Institute, Waite Precinct, H 5064

Free SO2 is just the beginning.

(2) CLSI EP09-A3 Measurement Procedure Comparison and Bias Es Figure 1 shows a plot of the Weighted Linear Laboratory Standards Institute) Least Squares regression performed on free SO2 (3) CLSI EP05-A3 Evaluation of Precision of Quantitative Measurem results from the mean Sentia result compared Standards Institute) to the mean free SO2 result from the reference Aeration Oxidation Method.

Table 1 presents method comparison regression statistics and calculated bias.

This study demonstrated good correlation References White Paper | Sentia Wine Analyzer 6 (r2=0.91) of the Sentia free SO2 Analyser with (1) AWRI - The Australian Wine Research Institute, Waite Precinct, Hartley Grove cnr Paratoo Road, Urrbrae (Adelaide) SA the reference laboratory Aeration Oxidation 5064 Method. The study also showed a standard (2) CLSI EP09-A3 Measurement Procedure Comparison and Bias Estimation Using Patient Samples, 3rd Edition (Clinical and error of 4.3 mg/L. Laboratory Standards Institute) (3)

CLSI EP05-A3 Evaluation of Precision of Quantitative Measurement Procedures, 3rd Edition (Clinical and Laboratory Repeatability

hows a plot of the Weighted Linear Least Squares regression performed on free SO₂ results from Standards Institute) Data analysistodemonstrates excellent precisionfrom the reference Aeration Oxidation Sentia results compared the mean free SO₂ results able 1 presents comparison regression statistics and calculated bias. withmethod repeatability CVs of 2.0% and 1.8% for red

Table 1 presents method comparison and white wine respectively. regression statistics and calculated bias.

of Weighted Linear Least Squares Regression Fit (Red) and line of Identity (Grey)

f the Weighted Linear Least Squares regression performed on free SO₂ results from s56 compared to the mean free SO₂ results from the reference Aeration Oxidation 6 study. nts method comparison regression statistics and calculated bias.

of 10 to .Least At Squares the Regression Fit (Red) and line of Identity (Grey) d on sted ation). ed le,

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WINEMAKING

white wine reproducibility study (CLSI EP05-A3 5 Day Study).

The Sentia Analyzer was validated according

As world leaders in biosensor technology, our reputation is built on precision.

That’s why you can trust the SentiaTM hand-held wine analyzer to accurately measure free SO2 levels in your post-fermentation wine. No sample preparation.

No reagent preparation. No calibration.

No special training required. Just reliable test results in less than a minute, wherever and whenever you need them. And with more key wine analysis tests on the way, free SO2 is just the beginning.

For sales and distribution enquiries please email info@mysentia.com or visit mysentia.com

Figure 1- Plot of Weighted Linear Least Squares > FigureFit1:(Red) Plot of Weighted Linear(Grey) Least Regression and line of Identity

Squares Regression Fit (Red) and line of This study (Grey) demonstrated good correlation Identity (r2=0.91) of the Sentia free SO2 Analyser with the reference laboratory Aeration Oxidation Method. The study also showed a standard error of 4.3 mg/L.

THE POWER OF A LAB IN THE PALM OF YOUR HAND.

47 29243_SENTIA_PRODUCT LAUNCH_AD_WBM-USA_10.75x14"+BLD_FA.indd 1

S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 1 | V I N E YA R D

4/12/20 10:00 am

WINEMAKING

This year’s harvest is set to be like no other with a mixed weather season and social distancing measures in the winery and vineyard causing potential delays and dramatic process changes.

The ability to process fruit at speed and in a cost effective way is always a consideration and one that might be more important now.

The Laffort range of fast acting enzymes and high quality yeasts and nutrients can help speed up the process and reduce time while maximising the yield. Laffort have launched some great new products for this year’s harvest to improve flavours, improve processes and reduce pesticides in your wines.

ZYMAFLORE® XORIGIN

Saccharomyces cerevisiae yeast selected for well-balanced and complex wines, respecting the typical character of grape varieties and terroirs.

ZYMAFLORE® XORIGIN adds smoothness and aromatic finesse. Its low production of SO2 makes it particularly suitable for making wines where the main objective is to control sulphite levels. Its low production of volatile acidity and its POF (-) character allow for production of wines of great aromatic purity.

ZYMAFLORE® KHIOMP

Non-saccharomyces yeast of the species Metschnikowia pulcherrima for BIOProtection of white and rosé musts as well as grapes during prefermentation phases at low temperatures.

ZYMAFLORE® KHIOMP is the result of a mass selection from among grape and must flora during cold stabulation. This strain is characterised by its ability to maintain its population for several days at a very low temperature. Due to its very low fermentation capacity, ZYMAFLORE® KHIOMP allows for BIOProtection of the harvest or must from the predominance of potentially undesirable indigenous microorganisms.

VEGEMUST®

Formulation based on 100% vegetable proteins, non-allergenic and suitable for Organic winemaking.

The expertise of our teams around the world allows us to offer a new 100% vegetable protein solution dedicated to fining musts. Combining a high flocculation speed with a wide spectrum of action for the elimination of phenolic compounds, VEGEMUST® promotes rapid cold settling, with good compaction of solids.

The presence of patatins in the formulation helps to reduce the risks of wine oxidation at an early stage.

POWERLEES® LIFE

Formulation based on 100% yeast derivatives, suitable for Organic winemaking.

POWERLEES® LIFE is particularly rich in reducing compounds including reduced glutathione. R&D work on the study of alternatives to sulphites during ageing allowed us to select these inactivated yeasts for their ability to slow down oxygen consumption in wines. Used once or several times throughout ageing, POWERLEES® LIFE protects wines from premature oxidation, refreshes already oxidised wines and increases ageing potential. Very high protection potential, particularly in the context of producing wines without added sulphites.

QUERTANIN® Q2

Stave-grade ellagitannins extracted from the heartwood of American oak for the ageing of white, red and rosé wines.

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Developed using an innovative extraction process, QUERTANIN® Q2 has all the qualities of American oak.

QUERTANIN® Q2 acts on the tannic structure and contributes to the balance of wines by regulating redox phenomena and by recreating a medium rich in ellagitannins identical to that provided by a new barrel.

S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 1 | V I N E YA R D

n pto

High quali‫ ﬚‬yeasts and nutrients that can help speed up the process and reduce time while maximising the yield.

ru

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UK harvest 2021

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WINEMAKING NOBILE® DARK ALMOND Made exclusively from selected French oak, NOBILE® DARK ALMOND chips result from a new toasting process.

Thanks to its complex oak compounds, NOBILE® DARK ALMOND contributes to the impression of sweetness while respecting the fruit character in wine. NOBILE® DARK ALMOND helps to bring out grilled aromas (almond, coffee) and subtle notes of dark INNOVATION chocolate.

NOBILE® INNOVATION

NOBISPARK

NOBILE®

Typical

The search for the finest balance between natural oak compounds and sparkling wines during alcoholic fermentation has led us to develop NOBISPARK. This oenological bidule allows the second fermentation to be carried out under oak, for more complex and more elegant Traditional Method wines.

Typical

Typical

Through its funding of R&D work on the typical Typical character of Chardonnay wines, LAFFORT has ®

demonstrated that the vinification of musts from this grape variety with ZYMAFLORE® CX9 in the presence of NOBILE® STAVE 18-DIVINE brings out a greater concentration of pyrroles in the wine. Pyrroles are precursors of thiopyrroles, compounds that contribute to the typical character of Chardonnay wines with notes of fresh hazelnut and almond.

The combined use of NOBILE® STAVE 18-DIVINE and ZYMAFLORE® CX9 from the alcoholic fermentation phase allows for the production of distinctive and elegant Chardonnays. This phenomenon is more intense when they are retained during the malolactic fermentation (LACTOENOES® B7 DIRECT).

Typical Typical ZYMAFLORE® CX9 & NOBILE® STAVE 18 DIVINE

globe-asia www.BruniErben.co.uk phone-alt 07805 081677 paper-plane Mark.Crumpton@BruniErben.co.uk S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 1 | V I N E YA R D

Typi

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Representing you Working in partnership with Vineyard magazine for a developing UK wine industry.

WineGB is the national trade body representing the vine growers and winemakers of Great Britain from the largest producers to small hobbyists.

Our members work together with the organisation to develop strategy, expertise and marketing opportunities for long-term, sustainable success.

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If you are interested in wine production in the UK find out more about WineGB and join us. Visit our website www.winegb.co.uk

> Kevin Sutherland (Bluebell Vineyard Estates); Trevor Clough (Digby Fine English); Ana Dogic (Sugrue South Downs); Dermot Sugrue (Sugrue South Downs & Wiston Estate); Laura Rhys MS (Gusbourne); Sergio Verrillo (Blackbook Winery); Mike Wagstaff (Greyfriars Vineyard)

Members’ wines showcased to on-trade in exclusive masterclass The first instalment of our new series of tasting masterclasses, designed to create stronger links between our members and the on-trade community, was held on Monday 12 July at Blackbook Winery in London.

An exclusive benefit for WineGB members only, this first masterclass session focused on the WineGB Awards’ trophy winning wines, which were presented by our CEO and Master of Wine Simon Thorpe, alongside winemakers and representatives from Wiston, Greyfriars, Digby, Gusbourne and Bluebell.

Top sommeliers from around the country were given the chance to taste and learn about the top-performing wines and wine styles at this year's WineGB Awards with the line-up which included: Best Classic Cuvée NV/MV Ashling Park Estate, Ashling Park Cuvée NV Best Prestige Cuvée Chapel Down, Kit's Coty Coeur de Cuvée 2015 Best Sparkling Rosé Digby Fine English, 2014 Vintage Rosé Brut Best Classic Cuvée Vintage Greyfriars Vineyard, Cuvée Royale 2015 Best Blanc de Noirs Harrow & Hope, Blanc de Noirs 2015 Best Sparkling Blend Stonyfield Wine, Sparkling White 2017 Best Blanc de Blancs Wiston Estate Winery, Blanc de Blancs 2015 Best Still Chardonnay Gusbourne, Guinevere Chardonnay 2019 Best Still Bacchus Chapel Down, Kit’s Coty Bacchus 2019 Best Still Rosé Bluebell Vineyard Estates, Ashdown Rosé 2018 To accommodate everyone safely the day was split into two sessions, which also included a Q&A, with Sergio Verillo, owner of Blackbook, who also presented a selection of the urban winery’s award-winning wines.

Sustainable wines hit the shelves The UK’s first fully accredited sustainable wines produced under the WineGB Sustainable Wines of Great Britain scheme have now been released.

These are the first wines produced by SWGB members to be permitted to include the certification mark on their labels.

The 10 wines, which have all been produced in a SWGB-accredited winery with grapes grown in an SWGB-accredited vineyard, include: ◆ Yotes Court On the Nod Bacchus 2020 ◆ Yotes Court Best Turned Out Pinot Meunier Rosé 2020 ◆ Henners Gardner Street Rosé 2020 ◆ Three Choirs’ canned wine range: Three Choirs Sparkling, Three Choirs White, Three Choirs Rosé, Three Choirs Red ◆ Gusbourne Guinevere Chardonnay 2019 ◆ Gusbourne Pinot Noir 2019 ◆ Gusbourne Pinot Noir Rosé 2020 Five of these wines were submitted into this year’s WineGB Awards. All received either a gold or silver medal, with Gusbourne’s gold award-winning Guinevere Chardonnay 2019 also taking the trophy for the Best Still Chardonnay.

The scheme, which launched in February 2020 and is exclusively open to WineGB members, now has 61 members with 22 accredited vineyards and eight accredited wineries. Newly accredited members include Hundred Hills vineyard and winery, Pinglestone Estate vineyard, Chapel Down winery and Ridgeview vineyard.

To gain accreditation, the members of WineGB’s environmental sustainability scheme must undergo an annual self-evaluation to monitor progress against guidelines. Upon joining, then every three years, each self-evaluation score is checked and verified by independent auditors, Ricardo PLC. In September, the SWGB’s Data Repository is scheduled to be launched. This online information repository will allow members to store and present information for audit privately and securely. It will also allow the SWGB scheme to set benchmarks to help members evaluate their performance from a sustainability perspective.

i

You can find out more about Sustainable Wines of Great Britain on the WineGB website. www.WineGB.co.uk

New features added to tasting One of the most anticipated events organised

by WineGB for its members is the annual London Trade and Press tasting.

While last year’s event was sadly unable to go ahead, sights are now set on making the 2021 event, which will take place on Tuesday 7 September at the RHS Lindley Hall, London SW1, better than ever.

One of the first main trade tastings to take place this year, a great deal of interest has already come in from producers looking to exhibit, as well as trade and press keen to get back out after Covid-19.

In the last two years, so much variety and range has been released, and everyone is eager to discover more, taste the new releases and of course meet with the producers themselves.

Due to the pandemic, there will of course be a number of appropriate safety measures in place, including the regulation of visitor numbers, the safe use of spittoons and reduced handling of

tasting bottles.

The need to layout the tasting in a slightly different way has offered the opportunity to introduce a number of new features, such as a special focal point on UK wine tourism which it is hoped will attract a number of high-profile travel journalists.

This year we will also be exhibiting the WineGB Awards’ trophy winning wines on a free pour table together with the regional champions in the awards. We will also be using the event to announce the winners of the Winery of the Year category as well as the crowning of Supreme Champion.

Open for WineGB members only, there are numerous exhibitor opportunities for producers.

If you would like more information on becoming a WineGB member or exhibiting at the trade and press tasting, please phone the WineGB office, details below.

JOIN WINEGB

phone-alt 01858 467792 paper-plane office@winegb.co.uk globe-asia www.WineGB.co.uk 51 S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 1 | V I N E YA R D

Equipment for Vineyards

HARVEST CONTRACTOR Our company has over 10 years experience with mechanical grape harvesting. We harvest nearly 600 hectares of vineyards each year.

Our harvester is a high quality ERO 7000 machine with the new selection table.

Benefits: • Harvest a bigger area in a short time • With the destemmer and the new selection table we get a perfect grape quality • You can harvest vineyards when they’re in the third year • Unloading into grapeboxes

■ ■ ■ ■

Cultivators Vine Trimmers Soil Aerators Hedge Cutters

Your contractor for grape harvest.

In partnership with VINES DIRECT LTD

Lohnunternehmen Lukas Klein

Purchase direct from the UK Importer:

Saint-georges-Straße 4 | 67245 Lambsheim | Germany t: 01892 890364 • e: info@lameng.com Lamberhurst Engineering Ltd • Priory Farm Parsonage Lane • Lamberhurst • Kent TN3 8DS

www.lameng.com

Email: lohnunternehmen-klein@gmx.de Mobile: +49 (0) 15142358410

Your specialist tractor and machinery dealership

New and used tractors, machinery and equipment for your vineyard and winery. plus spare Parts, Service, repair and after Sales Care.

Avon

Works,

Kent,

Cranbrook,

TN17

01580

2PT

712200

sales@npseymour.co.uk www.npseymour.co.uk

52 S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 1 | V I N E YA R D

vid Sayell & a D

c ha Ri

Weed control between vines

rd Witt

Helping vineyards find the right kit to deal with the weeds.

VITIFRUIT EQUIPMENT

> Before and after use with the Petalmatic

This season has been challenging to say the least. The wet and warm weather has encouraged the weeds to flourish and David Sayell at Vitifruit Equipment has been extra busy helping vineyards find the right kit to deal with the weeds by hiring and selling both herbicide sprayers and under vine Boisselet hoes and strimmers.

Many vineyards are new to the Boisselet equipment so David explained that his practice is to take the kit to the vineyard and try out the various modular add-ons to find out which is the most suitable for the soil type, weed abundance etc before starting the hire period.

With the diversity of soil types and conditions experienced, knowing exactly what you are working with and understanding how best to address specific issues is imperative. Flexibility is the order of the day and the Boisselet range adapts to meet any needs. Finding the perfect fit means assessing all the options for working in the ground these options are: Cutmatic – simple knife blade for shallow work. Speed 4 to 8 kph.

Petalmatic – rotating head 250 mm or 350 mm diameter. Speed 2.5 to 3 kph for deeper more powerful work undercutting and shaking out the weed roots from the soil. This is normally done first thing in the spring and straight after harvest and followed by the faster Cutmatic during the summer. It is also used to pull out and level any soil ridges which have been pushed over the graft.

Petalmatic Plus – by adding one or two yellow rubber " fins" to the Petalmatic vertical blades it is possible to stroke the stems of more mature vines and pull away any weeds.

Discs and hoes – to be inserted in front or behind the Cutmatic or Petalmatic to broaden the cultivated strip, cut a clean line between the grass alley and cultivated strip or cut through tall grass and weeds to stop them clogging up the main tool.

Rollhack – a clod breaker for use in low weed density sites in dry or stony ground to move soil along a line beside the vines and push it toward the vines; usually used in conjunction with the Cutmatic or if the soil is dry and loose with the finger weeder.

Finger weeder – for use in low weed density and previously cultivated dry soil to run along the side of the vines disturbing the soil between the vine stems with rubberised fingers which push the soil rather than undercutting and thus is only used in kind dry soil types which move easily.

There are also options for working above ground: Filmatic Strimmer - to strim in and out between the vines.

Mini Rotofil - multi head strimmer to run along the outside of the vines clearing long grass and weeds; clearing the strip between the vine stems and the mowed alleyway.

globe-asia www.vitifruitequipment.co.uk phone-alt 01732 866567 paper-plane vitifruitequipment@sky.com S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 1 | V I N E YA R D

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Vineyard thrives on agri-tourism Biddenden Vineyards produces over a million litres of cider and juice every year.

FRUIT AND VINE TRACTORS IN STOCK AND READY TO GO!

COVERING KENT, SUSSEX AND SURREY

Haynes Agri

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RICHARD SMITH 07483 035922

H AY N E S A G R I C U LT U R A L LT D .

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Vitifruit Equipment Sales and Hire

TRIMMERS AND DE-LEAFERS FROM PROVITIS AND AWS STOCKMAYER www.provitis.eu www.aws-stockmayer.de

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/vitifruitequipment S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 1 | V I N E YA R D

 vitifruitequipment@sky.com

 01732 866567

New McCormick compact

The new X2 compact vineyard tractor range by McCormick will be available in the UK from September 2021. The two models in the range, X2.055 and X2.060, have a maximum output of 49 and 57 horsepower (ISO) respectively, with 1.9-litre, 3-cylinder, turbo aftercooled engines, and boast the Kohler Stage V emission engine.

A new feature of the X2 is the Engine Memo Switch that allows the operator to quicky save and retrieve engine rpm settings. It is available in two configurations: Standard, available for the platform or cab versions, and GE (Ground Effect), only for the platform version which, with a “lowered” set-up further reduces the overall height from the ground, making it suitable for working under polytunnels. The cab has air-conditioning, flip-up front window and radio, as well as noise and vibration insulation.

The mechanical power shuttle transmission is available in 12/12 or 16/16 versions if equipped with a creeper unit, with a minimum speed of 220m/h. The fuel tank has a 40-litre capacity, while the hydraulic flow rate is increased to 35 litres/minute for the rear lift and it also has a dedicated 20-litre/minute steering pump. The category one threepoint hitch can lift up to 1200kg and the front lift system, optional with or without a 1,000 rpm PTO, up to 400kg. The rear mechanical PTO is available in 2 different speeds: 540 and 540E, plus the synchronised forward speed. The dual traction front axle has an electro-hydraulic engaging “Hydralock” differential lock in both the STD and GE versions.

The tractor weighs just 1600kg for the platform version and has a maximum permissible mass of 3050kg, while the wheelbase of just 1790mm and the minimum width of 1260mm with rear tyres available in two versions, 20” and 24”, which allow the GE version to maintain bonnet heights from the ground of 1131mm and 1206mm respectively (on the Standard version these measurements become 1230mm and 1301mm).

The McCormick X2 range can be equipped with the advanced “McCormick Fleet Management” telematics monitoring system, designed to monitor the efficiency of the work site in terms of fuel consumption, working hours and scheduled maintenance. The system operates through a dedicated portal that allows the owner to maximise the activity of the tractors and monitor their operating costs.

www.farol.co.uk Rycote Lane Farm, Milton Common, Thame, Oxfordshire, OX9 2NZ Unit 12, Newton Business Park, Newton, Nottinghamshire, NG13 8HA Coldridge Copse, Shefford Woodlands, Hungerford, Berkshire, RG17 7BP Wharf Farm, Coventry, Hinckley, Leicestershire, LE10 0NB Holmbush House, Holmbush Ind. Est., Midhurst, West Sussex, GU29 9XY London Road, Twyford, Reading, Berkshire, RG10 9EQ

55 S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 1 | V I N E YA R D

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VIN10 RIDDLING AND DISCORGING LINE Itasca Wines is delighted to announce our Riddling and automated Disgorging Line is now fully operational!

Our Disgorging Line, custom designed

by TDD, with high end laser guided vision control and jetting, labelling and packaging line is ready for use.

If you require your wines disgorged call Itasca Wines!

Riddling, Disgorging, Labelling, Packaging, Storage, Dosage Advise and Consulting.

Temperature Controlled Storage available Full label design services with our inhouse Graphics team.

Let Itasca Wines turn your ideas into that special and distinctive label.

Contact us to find out more Itascawines.com | info@itascawines.com | 01252 279 830

Itasca Wines, Penn Croft Winery, Clifton Farm, Croft Lane, Crondall, Hampshire, GU10 5QD