Vineyard February 2023

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Agreeable symmetry

FEBRUARY 2023

Visiting a vineyard on the site of a medieval abbey

INSIDE Frost protection Introducing our new columnists Matthew Jukes looks at some incredible wines that catch the imagination

LAND & PROPERTY CONSULTANTS Expert advice for viticulture: • Site-finding • Sales & acquisitions • Planning applications • Environmental schemes & grants

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VINEYARD for viticulturists in Great Britain

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NEWS 8

Simonit & Sirch hosted by Defined Wine

10

Welsh wine strategy launch

11

Vineyard magazine welcomes two new expert columnists to the team.

www.vineyardmagazine.co.uk VINEYARD Kelsey Media, The Granary, Downs Court Yalding Hill, Yalding, Maidstone, Kent, ME18 6AL 01959 541444 EDITORIAL Editor: Rebecca Farmer vineyard.ed@kelsey.co.uk GRAPHIC DESIGN Jo Legg Flair Creative Design jo.legg@flair-design.co.uk ADVERTISING & MARKETING Jamie McGrorty 01303 233883 jamie.mcgrorty@kelsey.co.uk PHOTOGRAPHER Martin Apps www.countrywidephotographic.co.uk MANAGEMENT DIVISIONAL MANAGING DIRECTOR: Steve Kendall PUBLISHER: Jamie McGrorty RETAIL DIRECTOR: Steve Brown SUBSCRIPTION MARKETING MANAGER: Claire Aspinall PRINT PRODUCTION MANAGER: Kelly Orriss DISTRIBUTION

Distribution in Great Britain: Seymour Distribution Limited 2 East Poultry Avenue, London EC1A 9PT Tel: 020 7429 4000 www.seymour.co.uk Distribution in Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland: Newspread Tel: +353 23 886 3850 Kelsey Media 2023 © all rights reserved. Kelsey Media is a trading name of Kelsey Publishing Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part is forbidden except with permission in writing from the publishers. Note to contributors: articles submitted for consideration by the editor must be the original work of the author and not previously published.

Where photographs are included, which are not the property of the contributor, permission to reproduce them must have been obtained from the owner of the copyright. The editor cannot guarantee a personal response to all letters and emails received. The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the Editor or the Publisher. Kelsey Publishing Ltd accepts no liability for products and services offered by third parties.

Kelsey Media takes your personal data very seriously. For more information of our privacy policy, please visit Kelsey Media takes your personal data very seriously. For more information of our privacy policy, please visit https://www.kelsey.co.uk/privacy-policy/ . If at any point you have any queries regarding Kelsey’s data policy you can email our Data Protection Officer at dpo@kelsey.co.uk.

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REGULARS 20 Matthew Jukes

Nonconformists unite.

29 The vine post

Weed control in vineyards is an essential part of any management programme.

30 A viticulturist's diary

Recently Sam Doncaster returned to Germany, where he had the good fortune to attend several wine tastings.

39

Machinery advice and tips

Protecting high-value crops from the frost.

40 The agronomy diary

Delving into detail about soil pH.

42

Express your terroir

Does the beauty of machine harvesting give beautiful wines?

44

Performing sensory assessments

Critical points to think about when tasting and blending.

46 Representing you

WineGB Industry Conference.

49

Machinery

Performance ahead of price.

Front cover image: Warden Abbey Vineyard © Martin Apps, Countrywide Photographic

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Winery

CONTENTS Features Property for sale

14

An established vineyard with views to the South Downs has come to the market on the edge of Bolney village in West Sussex.

In conversation...

16

Vineyard chatted with Oz Clarke about the journey of English and Welsh wine together with the release of the updated version of his book.

Agreeable symmetry

22

Vineyard visits the remarkable Warden Abbey Vineyard in Bedfordshire located on the site of a medieval abbey.

Keep your cool

32

Average growing season temperatures are on the rise in the UK, leading to earlier budburst.

Accordingly, the risk from early season frost is significant and unpredictable from year to year.

Re b

Fa r mer a c ec

From the editor

“You always own the option of having no opinion,” said Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius This month I find myself straying into a controversial area. The topic I have heard discussed recently is about the perception of viticulture in the UK. Is viticulture in the same line as other agricultural activities such as top fruit growing? There have been very opposite sides of the argument put to me and I have found solace in the words at the top of this column (written nearly 2000 years ago) because I find both sides of the debate equally persuasive.

There is a point of agreement: the better the vineyard management, the better the grapes placed in the hands of a skilled winemaker, the better the wine. A good start but separate conclusions then develop.

On one side it has been argued that viticulture is quite unique in that the fruit produced by the vine is not ultimately the finished article. An apple or pear will be consumed as it is but the grapes from a vine must undergo such a significant and indeed in some cases lengthy metamorphosis that the resemblance of viticulture to other forms of agriculture is minimal. Likewise the marketing of the finished product is often very different to other agricultural produce.

On the other side of the argument is the idea that a vine is grown in soil, tended and cultivated and in some respects it could be considered that planting a vineyard is akin to planting a forest. This line of reasoning points to good techniques that respect the tree/soil/environment being the foundation of any crop and that in reality these fundamentals apply to whatever brand of agriculture you choose.

Whilst I have found that what was good enough for a Roman Emperor is good enough for me – hoping that the fence on which I sit is neither electrified nor topped with barbed wire – it has been great to listen to a debate which I am sure will continue maybe not for the next 2,000 years (who knows where climate change will have taken society by then) but certainly for some time to come.

6

Send your thoughts and comments

by email to vineyard.ed@kelsey.co.uk

ONE VINE AT A TIME VineWorks has been supporting UK vineyards since 2006 Specialising in:

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NEWS

Simonit & Sirch hosted

by Defined Wine On the 16 December Defined Wine organised an introduction to the internationally renowned Simonit & Sirch pruning methodology.

Yotes Court Vineyard, Kent was the setting for the half day pruning workshop. Although Defined Wine have no vineyards of their own, they are always looking at how to support their clients and so organised for the team from Simonit & Sirch to visit from Italy to provide a bespoke training course. The complimentary pruning workshop was attended by 22 brands

who Defined Wine make wine for showing how much clients appreciated the opportunity to learn the fundamentals of this technique.

Head Winemaker Nick Lane became convinced of the merits of the Simonit & Sirch technique after visiting their academy in Friuli earlier in November and was keen to show people the importance of a long term pruning strategy. Nick explained: “Their pruning method aims to respect the flow of sap within the vine and thus results in greater vine health over a longer period of time.”

Simonit & Sirch are looking to become more active in the UK where they recognise the potential of the wine industry and believe their techniques are particularly relevant in cool climates. The half day session was carried out in the mature and picturesque vineyard of Yotes Court under a thick blanket of snow, with the first 90 minutes in the classroom and the next two hours in the vineyard. Simonit & Sirch offer comprehensive online courses and are running a three day course starting in January in partnership with Plumpton college.

Pruning Competition 8

Entries will be open via the WineGB website for the Pruning Competition 2023 to be held on Friday 17 March at Yotes Court Vineyard, Kent.

Start thinking about who is your best pruner, cane puller and trimmer/tier! Further information to follow shortly.

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9 F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | V I N E YA R D

NEWS

Welsh wine strategy launch A first-of-its-kind strategy has been launched to set the future of the Welsh wine industry into focus over the next twelve years and increase the sector’s current value by 10-fold to reach £100 million by 2035.

Developed at a pivotal time for Welsh vineyards, with the support of the Welsh Government’s Drinks Cluster, the industry-led strategy is designed to ensure Wales builds on its emerging reputation as an experimental producer of varying wines, following some impressive successes in recent years that have been rewarded with a number of international awards.

The new industry strategy, launched at the Coal Exchange Hotel celebrated Wales’ achievements over the past year, including Welsh wine sales which, alongside English wine, increased by 31.3% to 9.3 million bottles in 2021. With the strategy in place as a framework for growth, Wales will continue to forge its own path.

The event, which was hosted by Jeremey Miles, Minister for Education and Welsh Language, outlined five strategic pillars as paving the future for Welsh wine.

These included a strong online presence, organisation, skills, wine tourism and Welsh wine identity and brand.

With over 30 vineyards now operating across the country, Wales’ status as an innovative producer of high-quality wine has gone from strength to strength thanks to its pioneering vineyard owners, the fantastic fruit that is

grown as well as Wales’ distinctive microclimate and landscape.

There are many similarities to New Zealand which has gone from small scale to internationally renowned in the last 30 years overcoming similar climate and landscape challenges.

Discussing the development of the strategy, Fintan O’Leary, Managing Director of Levercliff who facilitate the Welsh Drinks Cluster, said: “This strategy has been built by the vineyards themselves over a number of years and has been supported by the Welsh Government, as well as some of our regular contributors and partners – it’s been a real collaborative effort and sets out a clear vision for the industry’s future potential and how that vision will be delivered.

“One of the core aims is to encourage vineyards and industry stakeholders to explore their Welsh provenance further, as it is the microclimates and landscapes that put Wales in the advantageous position of producing awardwinning red, rosé, white and sparkling wines, all of which have led to global recognition for many vineyards across the country and there is definitely potential to expand on this further.”

With YouGov research showing that 87% of UK holiday-goers think that their food and drink experiences are important while on holiday, and 62% believing it is important that the food and drink provided is sourced locally, Welsh vineyards will make the most of the connection between Welsh food and wine and strengthen their relationship with

the tourism sector.

Alongside being called upon to explore Welsh identity, provenance and tourism further, the Drinks Cluster announced working on the delivery of viniculture and viticulture training (courses focussing on the production of wine) in partnership with Food Skills Cymru, Tyfu Cymru, Sussex-based Plumpton College and the Wine & Spirit Education Trust as part of a long-term strategy to strengthen and upskill the talent currently in the Welsh wine sector, and to encourage new talent into this unusual Welsh industry.

By exploring these five key strategic pillars further, Welsh wine experts also predict from past success that wine sales and revenue from cellar door activities – including wine tasting events, vineyard tours and overnight experiences – will bring in revenue of £14.4 million by 2035.

The tourism impact on Welsh GDP, partnered with Welsh wine’s popular growth is predicted to bring in a further £75.9 million by 2035.

Lesley Griffiths, Minister for Rural Affairs and North Wales, and Trefnydd said: “I’m pleased to see Wales’ first Wine Strategy published, which sets out how the industry can grow over the coming years. It’s important to note this is the industry’s strategy, put together by them which is good to see. The Welsh Wine industry has tremendous potential to build on what has already been achieved and the strategy will help it do that.”

Copy reproduced from www.businesswales.gov.wales Used under Open Government License

The beverage retailers wining and dining Google

10

Search marketing agency Salience has revealed the top 50 most prominent websites in the alcohol sector.

Majestic Wine has dethroned Waitrose Cellar to take the top spot as the most prominent brand in the United Kingdom when it comes to purchasing alcohol online, increasing in visibility by12% on last year.

Waitrose Cellar fell from the top spot after its visibility decreased by 15%.

Looking at this year's beverage industry search trends, Salience noted that searches for ‘craft beers’ are up 124% this year but searches for ‘Buckfast’ are down 24%.

F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | V I N E YA R D

Brett Janes, Managing Director at Salience Search Marketing, said: “The online alcohol market has been surprisingly steady in the UK over the past 12 months, only seeing 3% variance.

"Though, while we haven’t seen much movement in brands at the top of market, there have been some amazing success stories in the middle. In particular 365drinks (443%), Farrar and Tanner (471%), and Vinissimus (2121%) have all had an incredible year in terms of percentage growth in their digital marketing efforts.

"Over 2023, we expect the leading

brands to be shaken (not stirred) as the implementation and effects of AI content and ChatGPT take hold.

For the full report visit: www.salience.co.uk

NEWS

Introducing new faces Vineyard magazine welcomes two new expert columnists to the team.

Laura Hadland Laura Hadland is a freelance food and drink writer and photographer, with a focus on wine, beer and spirits. Laura runs a creative agency called Thirst Media that handles a range of services for independent businesses like vineyards, bars and restaurants.

Laura began her career as a writer in 2008 when she started a blog quickly developing a taste for food and drink writing. Travelling as much as possible visiting vineyards, breweries and distilleries all around the world, and undertaking training Laura improved her knowledge and skills, including picking up WSET Level 3.

In 2015 Laura joined Rothley Wine Estate as a vineyard volunteer, assisting with all aspects of grape growing and wine making, which she said: "Taught her a huge amount". Laura also developed and delivered their in-house wine tasting programme spending seven glorious years there, every spare moment and learning a huge amount from the dynamic Liz Robson, “to whom I owe a great debt,”

Salvatore Leone

Salvatore Leone is an Italian independent Winemaking Consultant with 20 years and 34 vintages of experience in seven countries of both hemispheres.

Salvatore has been working in the UK for nearly ten years and it was at Nyetimber that he was given the first opportunity to discover the UK wine world.

Nine years ago Salvatore became selfemployed helping UK wineries to express their terroir in their wine with a holistic approach and specific range of services according to conditions and targets. Facilitating changes to achieve the vision while optimising quality performances and productivity within the team.

Salvatore is proud of being one of the first winemakers in the UK to start the production of red wines and vermouths, ten years ago.

Currently working with six companies his main clients are Albourne Estate and Oxney Organic Estate where Salvatore acts as their Winemaker as they have no full time staff with a production up to 70,000 bottles per year.

This includes the contract winemaking clients.

Salvatore has been successfully applying

she said. “My daughter was born in the first weeks of lockdown, and the first place she ever visited beyond home and the hospital, was the vineyard,” Laura added.

Moving to Shropshire meant leaving Rothley, but Laura was pleased to get hands on with the harvest again in 2022, this time volunteering at Hencote.

In 2017 Laura took the plunge to go solo with both her writing and her business gaining bylines in a wide range of publications including The Telegraph and Reader's Digest.

Her recent wine writing has been published in Glug magazine, including three essays in their latest book, the Wine Almanac. Her first book, 50 Years of CAMRA, was published in 2021 and was named Best Beer Book in the World by the Gourmand Awards.

Laura is on the committee of the Guild of Food Writers and she is a member of both the British Guild of Beer Writers and the North American Guild of Beer Writers. “Having judged numerous competitions (regional, national and international) across all areas of the drinks industry, I think is phenomenally

this model and managing his time efficiently between wineries while they have been saving on a full time winemaker’s role.

Now working on refining this approach Salvatore plans to take it to the next level and collaborate with more wineries allowing them to grow faster with less resources and more technical, hands on assistance.

“My family has been producing grapes for the last three generations and my journey started in Sicily – Italy when I was 13 year old,” Salvatore said. He went to the old Viticulture and Enology school at Marsala, established decades before the first universities appeared and soon understood that winemaking is all about knowledge combined with experience.

“I needed to learn some foreign languages to get access and interact with more people and information,” he said.

Going on to study winemaking at the Catholic University of Piacenza, and with a scholarship attending De La Rioja University in Spain first and the Catholic University of Santiago de Chile after.

Salvatore spent more than 10 years travelling and working in different countries to learn as

useful for helping to recalibrate your palate and keep abreast of industry developments,” she said. For the future Laura has aspirations to complete the WSET Diploma, but “I also have a toddler and a business to run so it's not on the cards any time soon,” Laura concluded.

much as possible from different approaches and growing environments. This includes some small Italian wineries as well as some big players in Spain, Australia, New Zealand, such as Constellation wines, Pernod Ricard, and Argentina with Bodega Familia Zuccardi producing over 25 millions bottles a year.

“My first love are the small wineries where it is possible to touch by hand every single step. The beauty of the UK is it has very small scale production while being very young in the context of the industry with so much to learn and new ideas to implement. No recipes can be applied and we all have the opportunity to learn from a challenging environment while leaving our fingerprint on our wines,” Salvatore concluded.

11 Photo: Tom Thistlethwaite, courtesy of Sussex Modern

LETTERS

Talk to us! @VineyardMagGB

I love these less popular varieties Dear editor, I enjoyed and agreed with your ‘From the editor’ piece in the January 2023 edition.

My husband and I took over a vineyard in Suffolk in 2017. It was taken over from abandonment and after some research I now know it was planted in the late 1990s through to 2010. We grow Rondo, Ortega, Auxerrois as well as the more popular varieties; Pinot noir, Chardonnay and Bacchus. We haven’t planted any new vines, so we work with the varieties we already have.

At Shotley Vineyard we produce a charmat-method sparkling wine, which is a blend of Chardonnay, Auxerrois, Seyval blanc and Reichensteiner. The story behind this wine is that we wanted to produce a sparkling wine, but also wanted to keep the wine single-vineyard. As a start-up business, we also wanted to lessen the lead times. You could say

@BordeauxWinesUK

paper-plane vineyard.ed@kelsey.co.uk

this is unfashionable in terms of grape varieties chosen and ENVELOPE the wine making method, but I dare say it works well.

As a grower, I love these less popular varieties and in particular Rondo, Ortega and Auxerrois. Not only do they taste good, they’re favourable to grow in this climate. Rondo has good disease resistance, ripens early and has versatility in terms of being used in a red blend or rosé. Ortega is fairly disease resistant, ripens early and has a beautifully aromatic taste. Auxerrois is versatile and has a delicate fruity flavour. I would love to see some of these less fashionable varieties get more recognition and to see the UK wine scene have more confidence is making wines with them. We have the potential to make some really interesting and delicious blends.

Looking to the future, will fashion continue to dictate? I say, let us be the trend setters!

Charlotte Davitt-Mills, Shotley Vineyard

twitter

The beauty of the vineyards covered with frost at Château Climens Did you know that even though frost is not a desirable element for the vines, it slightly acts as a protective layer against freezing damage? #BordeauxWinesUK

vineyardsofhampshire

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Throwback to heady summer days in the vineyards of Hampshire.

Producing top quality wines while having minimum impact on the land continues to be a priority for our members.

Regenerative viticulture uses practices that improve soil health and biodiversity with the outcome of healthy, more resilient diseaseresistant vines.

More flowers, more bees, less churn.

Looking forward to hazy summer days. #vineyardsofhampshire #hampshirevineyards #vineyard #englishvineyard #englishwines #englishsparklingwines #englishsparkling #sustainablewinemaking #sustainablewines #hampshire #hampshirelife #visithampshire #englishwinelands #regenerativefarming #biodiversity #soilhealth

F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | V I N E YA R D

rowton_vineyard

Jen Jen @Jenchik

twitter

@SundayBrunchC4 the best sparkling red I have tried is a UK wine from Sussex vineyard Bolney Estate. Their Sparkling Pinot Noir is amazing. Plug some UK wines!!! #bolneywinesg

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Last week Zoe attended the @simonitesirch pruning course put on by the good people of @plumptonwine and hosted by our friends at @astleyvineyard An amazing insight into the growth of the vine and how we can prune to preserve as much living wood as possible whilst reducing the amount of sometimes devastating pruning wounds.

This is going to be really fundamental in the life span of our little vineyard and we can't wait for the vines to start taking shape! #followtheflow #simonitandsirch #masterpruners #pruning #vineyardpruning #vineyard #englishwine

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PROPERTY FOR SALE

Established West Sussex vineyard comes to market BOLNEY | WEST SUSSEX An established vineyard with views to the South Downs has come to the market on the edge of Bolney village in West Sussex.

Foxhole Vineyard extends to about 30 acres, including 16 acres of well-established vines, with the remaining land down to grass. There is a wooded shaw that runs through the land with a small stream along with a pond.

The vines were planted in 2008/2009 and are now fully established. The majority are Pinot Noir with a smaller amount of Pinot Gris and Bacchus vines. In previous harvests, the picked grapes have been used by a highly regarded local wine producer.

The majority of the land is on a gently undulating south-facing hillside and the altitude varies between 25m and 31m above sea level. It is surrounded by wooded shaws and hedgerows, which give an element of protection for the vines. The vineyards are also deer fenced.

GUIDE PRICE: £690,000

Chris Spofforth, head of Savills viticulture team, says: “Foxhole Vineyard offers a rare opportunity for a buyer to enter the rapidly expanding English wine industry and acquire a well-established standalone vineyard.

“As Foxhole is purely a producer of grapes, it

For more information, contact Savills on 01732 879050

14

16 ACRES

would suit an existing producer who needs a reliable source of fruit or a new entrant looking to create their own personal brand without having to start from scratch.’’

Foxhole Vineyard is being marketed by Savills for a guide price of £690,000.

Savills Sevenoaks 01732 879 050 sevenoaks@savills.com

FOR SALE

Bolney, West Sussex •

29.71 acres in total

•

16.15 acres of well established vines

•

Situated to the west of the popular village of Bolney

•

Potential interest to existing producers and new entrants to the sector

•

Fine views to the South Downs

About 29.71 acres I Guide Price £690,000

Talk to us today Chris Spofforth Savills Viticulture 07812 965 379 cspofforth@savills.com

Richard Mann Savills Viticulture 07967 555 862 rmann@savills.com

savills

savills.co.uk

SALES AND MARKETING

In conversation...

This month Vineyard magazine chatted with Oz Clarke about the journey of English and Welsh wine together with the release of the updated version of his book entitled English Wine From Still to Sparkling.

The Newest New World Wine Country.

Photo: Simon Buck

16

Oz Clar

ke

The updated version of this book with a beautiful pastel green front cover giving the immediate mental image of restful countryside has been released just two years after the first edition and takes an in depth look at the vineyards of England and Wales.

Oz Clarke holds English and Welsh wine in high esteem and this is evident from the fact that he does not like the use of the term ‘industry’ when referencing production within our shores. “The term still subconsciously has an industrial connection,” said Oz. This conjures a mental picture that is a far cry from “the charming and attractive transformation of the landscape,” that is also producing world beating wines. In addition it implies no reflection of the way vineyard managers, winemakers and consultants are working together to support each other and here Oz uses the lovely example of Chapel Down who passed the benefit of their expertise to their neighbours and colleagues when downy mildew became a problem in the growing season a few years ago. I could only agree with Oz when he said: “This is not a corporate industry but a community;” the idea makes me smile.

On a rather more controversial note Oz said: “I don’t have a problem with the terms English Sparkling or Welsh Sparkling as the names have been well accepted overseas.

Markets such as Scandinavia appreciate and understand what they are buying when they see this term.” To protect the top end of the market and maintain the prestige of the traditional method ensuring that other methods of production do not degrade the perception of quality Oz suggested that if “vineyards work together, with technical committees and vineyard groups offering each other help and advice, a system of self regulation should then naturally develop.

“In this way we can avoid the danger of over regulation. One of the exciting things about winemaking in England and Wales is that talented men and women who have travelled all over the world with different visions of flavour and skills have the freedom to make great wine but they do not have to follow set rules. There is no such thing as ‘should’ when considering the taste of English and Welsh wine,” he added.

“Even before the first book went to press it was apparent that there would be a need for the book to be followed up,” explained Oz. Looking at some of the graphics from the book it becomes clear just how fast the English and

Welsh wine scene is changing. One excellent graphic uses wine bottles as a pictogram showing how production has increased over time. The wine bottle for 2018 was completely full with 13.2m bottles produced and proving that, despite seasonal variations in production, figures are only going to increase. In both 2019 and 2020 over 10m bottles were produced.

Oz went on to say: “To keep the graphic going to 2022 it would need a new bottle size.” This dramatically illustrates why this updated version of the book became necessary (a copy of this graphic is found on the next page).

Each vineyard featured in the book has a fact sheet containing information about the possibility of visiting that vineyard, any tours they may offer, how to buy the wine and personal recommendations from Oz about the wines. “Every entry starts with an invitation to the reader,” he said. The idea of localism was something that developed during the

pandemic and we all had our difficulties. Oz recalled: “Since there were no tastings I had to pull wines from under the stairs to keep my palate in training,” but when it was possible to get out and about again “people were sufficiently excited about visiting their local vineyards. The public have certainly embraced the opportunities to get into a vineyard walk about and enjoy the whole experience,” he added. “It is possible with a good visitor centre not to need your own winery,” he concluded.

This interest has been reflected across the on-trade. Talking to people about the demand for English and Welsh wines amongst the on-trade Oz has found that the supply cannot really keep up but happily there are many new vines coming on stream with every passing year.

Evident in the book is the proliferation of many smaller but prestigious vineyards. In a comparison with the first edition the <<

17

weren’t theearly first pioneers to make fizz in 1950s England andato believe in itsTaylor future.

The really of the made tiny bit. Carr SALES AND MARKETING The really early pioneers of the 1950s made a tiny bit.itCarr Taylor made some from Sussex Reichensteiner in 1983 and was quite made fromactually Sussex Reichensteiner in 1983 and itinwas quite good. some New Hall made a little Pinot Noir fizz 1985 – << chapter overview for just the county their time effort and money to develop these Out now good.

Hall actually made a little Pinot Noir 1985 – Thefizz updated edition of of Kent has sixNew extra vineyards or wineries. varieties, but winemakers have also foundtake but these were merely ripples.

Who would the bigin plunge?

English Wine: From Still to Sparkling.

East Anglia is another county that has seen ways to make other varieties work. Rondo is but these merely ripples.

Who take the big The Newest Newplunge?

World Wine Country significant increases inwere vines planted and a brute of a grape but whenwould treated gently Nyetimber, with its wonderfully ‘can-do’ American owners who

by Oz Clarke (Pavilion Books), is out now. the latest edition of the book reflects this it has been making nice wine all around the Nyetimber, with ‘can-do’ American owners who simply would notisits bewonderfully denied.

RRP £20. including six vineyards, one of which UK,” he added.

Danbury Ridge, whose objectivenot as the book It is clear from the book and from our simply would be denied. so neatly describes “is to make world class still conversation that Oz believes that climate is at wines – from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.” the very centre of everything wine. Speaking Using an analogy that is perfect for our about a visit to Gwinllan Conwy vineyard maritime climate Oz said: “The rising tide lifts he said: “They explained why the vineyard all boats, when more recognition comes to was so close to the Victorian tourist resort of a greater number of smaller producers the Llandudno. These places were built for winter greater benefit there is to everyone, the large recreation areas due to the mild climate; that and the small.” mild climate is also perfect for vines.”

That the ‘Newest New World Wine Country’ Oz went on to give lots of examples of micro has caught the attention of winemakers climates all over the UK. Areas where he over the pond is evident from the inclusion described the local conditions as “thrilling.” of Domaine Evremond in this latest edition One such example is, the scientifically of the book. “The French are not very good significant, Dungeness, the only classified at sharing respect,” said Oz and yet French desert in the UK “and you can see Boot Hill Champagne houses are now setting up shop Vineyard in the distance,” he added. The not just in Kent but also in Hampshire. “I point that Oz makes is that these vineyards think we can allow ourselves to recognise are not found in these areas by accident, they how well we are doing,” he said. Reassuringly have been researched thoroughly for site he added: “The wines made here by French suitability. Quoting the work of Dr Alistair Champagne houses will be different from Nesbitt he points to the exciting possibilities those of their neighbours.” that have been highlighted as a direct result PiWi varieties feature far more heavily in of science. “Climate change has a massive the updated book than the previous edition. part to play in the expansion of English and Under the county of West Sussex, Artelium Welsh wine but the work of scientists and the make an interesting addition to the updated increasing number of wine consultants must book which states “the new plantings in 2022 also be recognised,” he said. There can be no are not what you would expect – Souvignier doubt that climate change brings with it much Gris, Sauvignac, Pinotin, Cabernet Noir, uncertainty; rising temperatures and extreme (shown in millions of bottles) Divico.” Oz said: “They decided it was no weather events will become more problematic good planting experimental plots someone the world over. (shown in millions of bottles) has got to plant a lot; well done them.” To There are already significant changes that can contextualise the PiWi plantings “Champagne be seen in viticulture in the UK. “We talk about now have an accepted PiWi variety,” Oz vine growing in counties that would have been added. “Innovative British people are using impossible only a few years ago,” added OZ.

He thinks places such as the Crouch Of course, there continues to be a lot of still wine being made inValley, the Vale of Clwydd and the county of Suffolk are Of continues to be seen a lot of wine made in some ofthe the areasworld just waiting for a vineyard thecourse, UK, butthere we are increasingly by still the rest ofbeing as explosion. the UK, but we are increasingly seen by of theour rest of the world as sparkling specialists.

About 70 per cent wine sparkling, The new is edition of the book includes an interestingis section on wine in cans. The sparkling About 70of per cent of our wine sparkling, and every specialists. year the percentage grapes being grown for fizz Uncommon can be found on Virgin Atlantic and on the shelf in Selfridges showing that and every year the percentage for fizzhardly increases.

But Britain is lucky of in grapes severalbeing ways.grown Champagne this alternative format already has prestige increases. luckyor indies several ways.

Champagne hardly but “with a reduction in carbon footprint over makes anyBut stillBritain wine – is it lives by its expensive sparkling glass bottles canned wine has got a significant makes anyitsstill wine – itreputation. lives or dies its expensive sparkling wine and hard-won Asby Britain sets out to future,” said Oz. “It isshare a product thatthis fills an exact market need and portrays itself exactly as wine and its hard-won As Britain sets out to share this sparkling glory, with allreputation. the investment and long-term planning it is,” he added. One of the remarkable aspects of English wine inplanning is that the quality keeps sparkling glory, with all the investment and long-term that requires, still wines – cheaper to make, cheaper to cans sell – getting better. “Every year I try one, it is better that requires, stillcash wines – cheaper to make, cheaper to – career than the last,” saidsell Oz. provide a crucial flow safety valve.

While new plantings Oz Clarke has chaired the tasting for the provide aand crucial cashasflow While2017, new plantings career onward upward, theysafety have valve. done since still WineGB awards forwines many years. The wines are tasted blind identified only by a number but onward as few theychannels, have donealong sincewith 2017, still wines actually and offerupward, one of the wine tourism and what people might not know is that Oz writes to each of the entrants that have not received actually offer of themoney few channels, with wine tourism and hospitality, to one get some coming along back into the business. an award with both praise and constructive hospitality, to get some money coming back intocomments. the business.

This personal touch even to the anonymous vineyards behind those bottles

UK production figures 2012–2020 shows his dedication to the advancement of English and Welsh wine from ground to glass.

UK production figures 2012–2020

Right at the end of our conversation Oz let slip that his next project involves audiobooks. His prestigious and extensive acting career will assist him as he brings his books to life with a passion and sophisticated style that will present an irresistible invitation into the world of wine.

A graphic from the book showing UK production figures 2012-2020 (shown in millions of bottles)

13.2m 13.2m

10.48m 10.48m

10.55m 10.55m

2012 2014 2015 FEBRUA R Y 2 0 2 3 |2014 V I N E YA R D 2012 2015

5.9m 5.9m

5.06m 5.06m

6.3m 6.3m

1.03m 1.03m

18

2017 2017

2018 2018

2019 2019

2020 2020

EDUCATION

Brighton & Hove wine crawl Dona Frost, Programme Manager and Tim Andrews, Wine Business Lecturer, share a recent student enrichment activity in the Wine Division, a regular extra-curricula feature of the annual calendar for wine students.

The Wine Business and Wine Production students went on a ‘Wine Business Crawl of Brighton & Hove’.

The students visited Quaff, an independent wine merchant and founding member of Vindependents (independent merchant owned importer); Fourth & Church, a hybrid retail-bar-restaurant; Wild Flor, a restaurant consistently voted the best wine list in Brighton; Ten Green Bottles, a hybrid retail-bar; and Plateau, a natural wine bar and restaurant.

Each gave an overview of their unique

business models, wine sourcing strategies, the opportunities and challenges within the supply chain and the current economic climate.

All the businesses were very generous with their experiences, which made for a very insightful day. With many students gaining invaluable experience working in these businesses and similar businesses in the area, this was also an excellent opportunity to bolster relationships between Plumpton College and the local wine trade.

Saturday 13 May 2023 Aſter three years, we're delighted to announce that Plumpton College Open Day & Spring Fair is back!

Save the date, sign up for our newsletter and get notified when tickets go on sale.

DESKTOP www.plumpton.ac.uk ENVELOPE wine@plumpton.ac.uk INSTAGRAM @plumptonwine F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | V I N E YA R D

19

WINE REVIEWS

Incredible wines that catch the imagination.

In a world of conformity, you want things that stand out, that catch the eye, with their point of difference or even a genuine and authentic USP. In our world, it is better still if this point of difference ‘catches the palate’, too.

This month I have found three wines for you that taste incredible while at the same time possessing points of difference that catch the imagination and make them stand out from the crowd. You do not have to pay up for the pleasure either, as you will note that this trio boasts truly competitive price points. I feel this will be an important factor in 2023 as people continue to tighten their belts while at the same time feeling good about supporting their local businesses instead of splashing out on products made by anonymous overseas companies.

There is something deeply British about our successes in the field of nonconformity.

Whether it takes the form of William Webb Ellis picking up the ball rather than kicking it, or punkish outrage, inspiring the late Dame Vivienne Westwood to create some of the world’s most eye-catching, shockingly beautiful and, at the same time, genuinely home-grown fashion.

In the wine world, those who try hard to do something different often end up failing. The finest forms of vinous nonconformity come from people with ambition, persistence and determination while at the same time having a healthy disregard for the convention. It would be lovely to think that we can breed more wine folk like this in our trade because we need to catch every palate we can.

2021 Pattingham Vineyard, Rudge Heath Divico £18.99 www.pattinghamvineyard.co.uk

I have never written up two wines from the same estate in consecutive months in Vineyard. The lovely people at Pattingham were seemingly happy to be featured in last month’s article, so they offered to send me a couple more wines in their range.

I am glad they did because I happened to be pondering this month’s nonconformity theme when I tasted them. It was clear, in an instant, that Rudge Heath had to form the heart of this month’s piece.

There are audible Divico rumblings in the shires since this grape was granted permission to be planted in our land a couple of years ago, and it is easy to taste why when you wrap your palate around this wine.

Named after a Gallic chieftain, this deeply fruity Divico, when carefully tempered with a hint of Rondo and treated to a whisper of French oak, transforms into an erudite charmer. With an admirable depth of blackberry and black cherry tones coupled with an enticing dusting of sweet spices, this is an impressively balanced red wine with a fair degree of tension on the finish, too, which makes it even more toothsome.

20 F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | V I N E YA R D

es Juk

DESKTOP www.matthewjukes.com ENVELOPE vineyard.ed@kelsey.co.uk

w

Nonconformists unite

Mat h e

2019 Meophams, Signature Sparkling Brut £27.50 www.meophams.co.uk www.producedinkent.co.uk www.macknade.com

NV Oxney Organic, Estate Rosé £28.00 www.oxneyestate.com £25.99 www.waitrosecellar.com £29.99 wwww.corkk.co.uk

www.theenglishvine.co.uk

I am a massive fan of Oxney’s wines, and opening a bottle is always a treat.

Perhaps I have become too blasé because I tasted this sensational wine recently and, while writing an enthusiastic tasting note, assumed that it was based on Chardy and the Pinots (still a band name that no one has yet taken)!

How foolish I am because, instead, this mesmerising rosé is more of a field blend with Seyval Blanc in the lead singer role and the aforementioned trio making up the numbers.

This release is based on the 2018 vintage, and it is uncommonly smooth and unrushed on the palate. There is no hectic, ‘me, me, me’ urgency found in so many young sparklers.

It is not aggressively fizzy either, preferring to be controlled, prickly and pervasive. The Oxney blurb states, ‘These are corks that should pop onto village cricket outfields all summer long’, and I feel that this enchanting mental image sums up the unique, bucolic appeal of the wonderful wines from this fascinating organic estate tucked behind Rye in the verdant East Sussex countryside.

This wine has a wonderful story. Meophams founders David and Pauline Grey planted a host of different grape varieties in the early Nineties when they established this estate.

When they retired in 2015, they approached current Wine Director Surinder Bassi’s parents, who had worked on the farm for 21 years, to see if they would like to take it on. They took the plunge, and while rummaging around in the Meophams wine library, they discovered an old vintage of sparkling Reichensteiner made by none other than Dermot Sugrue.

It was a beauty, so they celebrated this unique wine style by releasing a thrilling 2019 vintage made by Nick Lane and Henry Sugden at Defined Wine. I cannot remember tasting a 100% sparkling Reichensteiner before, and I was unaware that this wine was made from this underrated grape when I first tasted it.

This point of difference has yielded a wine of uncommon delicacy and allure, making it all the more exciting.

It feels ‘easier’ to sink your teeth into than a ‘classic blend’ while at the same time tasting open, juicy and floral.

It is also unmistakably English with its delicate texture and mesmerising florals. Downright delicious, this is the epitome of nonconformity, and it has a heart-warming legend to back it up, too.

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EDITOR'S VISIT

r Fa d mer E itor

Agreeable symmetry

Rebecc a

This month Vineyard visits the remarkable Warden Abbey Vineyard in Bedfordshire located on the site of a medieval abbey.

When you arrive at any vineyard in the UK or anywhere in the world for that matter there are certain things that will be the same. There will be soil, there will be posts and trellis and there will of course be vines.

These points will differ in the detail but they are key elements of any vineyard however there are so many unique points at Warden Abbey Vineyard, it is difficult to know where to begin.

Perhaps it might be best to start with Henry VIII. According to Margaret Roberts, a member of the Friends of Warden Abbey who is also the historian for the site “it was on 4 December 1537 that the Dissolution of the Monasteries” arrived in this small part of Bedfordshire and the occupation of this site that had begun in 1135 ceased. The Abbey was of the Cistercian Order and in her booklet titled “Warden Abbey the Monastic Landscape,” Margaret writes: “Warden was one of six Cistercian abbeys in Britain known to have had a vineyard, with about 37 acres under vine it was by far the largest.” It is fascinating to learn that the current area where the vines are planted had been used in late middle ages for industrial purposes. In the soil lay hidden many Photos: Martin Apps, Countrywide Photographic

22

fragments of tiles, some with colours that are extremely well preserved. Even an old stone masons chisel or wedge has been unearthed.

The vineyard occasionally reveals one of these remnants of the past as the vines are tended and cared for. Whilst we are standing in the vineyard Margaret points out an area of 3.5 acres adjacent to the current vineyard which until recently had a disputed heritage.

Margaret explained that she has recently been able to prove that this area was part of the medieval monastic vineyard.

The site is now part of the Whitbred Estate.

In 1985 Lady Whitbred established a vineyard on part of the same site that had been home to vines around eight centuries before. The symmetry of this is quite breath-taking and the site is now run for charitable purposes

by Bedfordshire Rural Communities Charity (BRCC) in association with the Friends of Warden Abbey.

The Friends of Warden Abbey are all volunteers who generously give of their time and energy to ensure that this 4.5 acre plot with 4,500 vines continues to be cared for. Gerry Nolan, Chairman of the Friends explained: “Every Tuesday and Friday

there is an open invitation for any of the 70 volunteers to come and work in the vineyard.

The volunteers undertake all the jobs in the vineyard from planting through to pruning and on to harvest. “New volunteers are paired with experienced workers,” said Amanda Gibson a member of the committee. “There is no pressure and no rota; people do what they feel they are capable of and we all work together,” she added. “Even if you turn up once in a blue moon we are still delighted to see you,” said Amanda. A real sense of unity and working together is evident and it becomes clear throughout the visit that excellent award winning wine is not the only product of the vineyard. “I have made so many friends,” said Amanda and indeed our conversation is joined by more and more people. Apart from the social aspect of the vineyard Gerry points to the peace and tranquillity that can be found here – wellbeing walks regularly take place in the vineyard. Our visit took place on a cold but beautiful winter day and it is easy to see why the group have had new volunteers since the challenges of Covid-19 and its associated difficulties. Volunteering here would be such a rewarding experience.

The cold day prompts a conversation about the frost protection measures the vineyard puts in place. “We don’t, we simply can’t afford it,” said Gerry. “We do leave the tying down until later than other vineyards as a way of protection for the buds, but that is the best we can do,” Amanda added. This lack of frost mitigation has led to some very large fluctuations in harvest figures. The worst year was 2020 which saw significant frosts affect the vineyard and only one tonne was harvested that year. The average number of bottles that are produced is around 3,000 but in the very best year 6,000 bottles were produced.

To include the local community, each year the vineyard holds an open day attracting 900 visitors. This year it takes place this year on 10 September. There is a small charge at the gate and the vineyard hosts between 25-30 stalls. Wine tasting classes and events related to the history of the site together with sales of wine on the day are extremely valuable to the group. It is clear however that this open day is about the local community as much as it is about the vineyard, with attractions during the day bringing the history of the site to life for both children and adults. Old trunk prunings are sold off as garden sculpture or as nature hotels so it is even possible to literally take a piece of the vineyard home.

The open day is one of many events throughout the year that encouraged visitors to Warden Abbey. The vineyard tours provided have the option of being either guided or self guided. The self guided vineyard tour utilises QR codes that are scanned on a mobile phone and then take the user to the tour information for that part of the vineyard. There are also summer picnics on Sundays and Teddy Bear picnics are a nice touch that ensure the whole community is included. There is even an opportunity for members of the public to buy a pruning experience at the vineyard. The Friends of Warden Abbey all bring valuable ideas and skills to the vineyard and this gives a depth and diversity that are both surprising << and unique for this small site.

Gerry Nolan and Amanda Gibson

Tim Taylor, vineyard manager

Each year the vineyard holds an open day attracting around 900 visitors, taking place this year on 10 September 2023 23

Celebrating their 70th Anniversary in 2023, Bedfordshire Rural Communities Charity (BRCC) was originally set up as part of a network of Rural Councils of which there are 39 across England. Along with the vineyard the charity also has a farm shop which sells the Warden Abbey wines and heritage centre tea room. Tracy Cowan, Chief Executive of BRCC said: “The vineyard is our biggest community project.” The charity works hard for the Bedfordshire community providing many services including transport for members of the community that have mobility issues or helping local residents complete paperwork. “During Covid-19 many of our drivers took people to vaccine appointments and delivered food parcels. The community and wellbeing team made hundreds of wellbeing calls,” said Tracy who also praised the team for all the hard work they do. There are many initiatives that are undertaken by the charity such as village hall support, community engagement and others relating to Green Infrastructure – there is even an inhouse ecologist. One aspect of the charity's work is helping mental and physical wellbeing by connecting with green spaces. The vineyard dovetails with these objectives not just for the volunteers but also by hosting activities for the community. Tracy spoke of plans to set up ‘Yoga in the Vineyard’ classes which would make for some interesting photographs.

Following along with the local community theme at Warden Abbey, the vineyard already hosts groups of young people. Rafe Radford, one

<<

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The vineyard is nearly forty years old and as such there are places in the rows where a vine might have died so to fill in the gaps a layering technique is used of the volunteers and a retired GP explained that under 18s who have learning difficulties come to the vineyard and get involved in activities such as creating bug hotels “they have mixed abilities but they all enjoy returning to the vineyard” he said. The vineyard also works with semi independent adults that have learning difficulties and these groups take part in tasks such as planting new vines.

Tim Taylor, the newly appointed vineyard manager is quick to point out that they have to be creative in the vineyard. In the words of the philosopher Plato: “Necessity is the mother of invention” and this is evident at Warden Abbey. The vineyard is nearly forty years old and as such there are places in the rows where a vine might have died so to fill in the gaps a layering technique is used. This old technique basically takes advantage of the vines reproduction process. “A cane is buried and this cane will develop its own root system and once this is established we cut what we call the umbilical cord,” explained Amanda. While the vineyard is frugal there are also plans for the future. New vines are planted but only in blocks of 200 at a time. Providing the young vines with enough water is a challenge for the group of volunteers so planting is undertaken with great forethought. There is a plot of vines that are different to the three established varieties; they include Divico, Regent, Orion and Seyval Blanc. Tim explained: “Before we plant any new vines we need to be sure that the varieties are suited to this vineyard.” The soil is a mixture of Hanslope and Evesham clay and “can vary from the one end of the row to the other,” explained Gerry.

Tim has a background in farming and estate management and after a varied career path moved into viticulture and studied at

EDITOR'S VISIT

Photo: John Handscombe

The team outside the farmshop Plumpton. He stated: “Viticulture has the ability to turn an average piece of ground into something amazing.” Earlier in his career he helped to establish a vineyard from scratch planting acres of new vines, however at Warden Abbey Tim is excited by the prospect of “making the best wine from the old vines focussing on quality and the point of difference this can create.” The vineyard is mostly

Reichensteiner, Muller Thurgau and Bacchus which Tim described as: “Three old school varieties; great classics.” Tim wants to focus on the idea of regenerative farming and the nutrition of the vineyard accepting that whilst the old vines might not produce high yields they do produce high quality and intense flavour profiles. “At Warden Abbey << we are custodians of the present and the past,” he concluded.

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<< Moving into the future there are so many possibilities for Warden Abbey Vineyard, including that of adding a pod to house events. Difficulties at the vineyard become obvious when I am told that to put up a permanent structure will not only require funding but due to the designation of a heritage site there can be no conventional foundations dug meaning a special base will need to be constructed to comply. There is also the possibility of extending the vineyard and Tim is keen to explore the idea of working with other vineyards, such as volunteering to help with tasks in the vineyard in exchange for goods or services. The not for profit community vineyard benefits from local companies that as part of their Corporate Social Responsibility programmes donate labour days and there are many opportunities for other companies to become engaged with this beneficial project. Securing funding streams has not always been an easy path though. One such example was a collaboration with an agricultural college which used the vineyard for one of their courses but this course was cut from the curriculum in 2013 and this funding was lost.

Warden Abbey Vineyard has achieved so much and the wines that are at its heart have also won awards. Gerry explained part of the reason for this: “Each bunch of grapes is picked by hand and carefully looked at before it goes into the crate.” The attachment to the vineyard of all those who volunteer is evident and brings to mind the “handmade with love” ethos. “Everybody that comes here is invested in the vineyard because they get so much more out of it than a glass of wine,” said Amanda. “The wine is almost a by product of all the other benefits of the vineyard,” said Gerry smiling.

Although the wines are made in relatively small quantities the 2015 Bacchus was awarded a Bronze Medal at the Decanter Wine awards. The Bacchus is only made in exceptional years and there is now a Bacchus 2019 available. Indeed 2019 was a great year for the vineyard and there is also a Warden Abbey Brut 2019 made in the traditional method and disgorged in

Warden Abbey Vineyard has achieved so much and the wines that are at its heart have also won awards 26

2022. The production of 1,500 bottles is made from three grapes consisting of 43% Muller Thurgau, 39% Reichensteiner with the remaining 18% Bacchus. From 2018 there is also a still white wine The Reformer which is 80% Reichensteiner 20% Bacchus. The wines are available from the cellar door but there are various stockists in the county including The Kingfisher hotel and pub which carries the still wines. This again is a lovely example of communities working together to promote local produce and also fits with the food ethos of The Kingfisher which uses beef produced only a few miles down the road.

The 2018 wines were made by the team at Halfpenny Green and after the disruption of Covid-19 the wines will again be made at this family run Staffordshire Winery which is ideally suited to the small production of the Warden Abbey Vineyard.

As I drive away from the vineyard up the single farm track I am slightly overwhelmed by what is being achieved here in this place where nearly 1,000 years of history are literally beneath your feet. The vineyard may not be profit making, but the community profit profoundly from these 4.5 acres tucked away in rural Bedfordshire.

Tracy Cowan

Margaret Roberts

27

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THE VINE POST

Weed control

Reid m To

Weed control in vineyards is an essential part of any management programme.

In the UK, as we receive high levels of rainfall and vineyards are often planted on highly fertile soils, weed pressure can rapidly become a significant concern if not kept in check. In many parts of the world, vineyards have been kept bare with a combination of cultivation and herbicide.

Weed control in vineyards is an essential part of any management program. In the UK, as we receive high levels of rainfall and vineyards are often planted on highly fertile soils, weed pressure can become a significant concern very rapidly if not kept in check. In many parts of the world, vineyards have been kept bare with a combination of cultivation and herbicide. However, vineyards in the UK have almost altogether moved away from this approach due to a large number of drawbacks.

Keeping the vineyard’s soil bare increases rapid erosion of the site, poor soil health and low biodiversity. Additionally, there are practical drawbacks as bare soil limits the access of machinery and, to an extent, manual work in the vineyard. Therefore, the majority of vineyard sites in the UK now tend to establish a cover crop in the alleyways (commonly grass), and control the weeds in the undervine area using a variety of approaches.

Herbicide

Traditionally the most common approach to managing the undervine area has been through herbicide applications. Herbicide is generally very affordable, highly effective and easy to apply, which is why it has been the chosen method by many for so long. However, the chemicals involved are contentious with evidence of residues appearing in food chains and long term negative effects to the soil and local environment. There have been a number of high profile legal cases where evidence of harm to operators resulting from long term exposure to these chemicals has been argued.

However, the extent of all these concerns is still widely debated and it does appear that when used correctly, safely and sparingly they are a highly effective method with limited drawbacks. What remains though is that public opinion on the use of herbicide has shifted

and more and more products are losing their approval licences – particularly on minor crops such as grapevines. Therefore, it is essential growers are flexible and work towards an integrated weed management programme.

Mechanical

There are now a large number of vineyard appropriate tools which can be used to manage weeds in the vineyard. From the common rotary tillers to strimmers and finger weeders to side hoes. The use of rotary tillers, such as a rollhacke, have become extremely popular due to their affordability and simple self-propelled mechanism. They work by tearing and smearing a shallow section of soil to uproot the germinating weeds. They can also incorporate organic matter and/or other applied fertilisers into the soil without disturbing the key soil structure beneath. However, timing is key – a rollhacke struggles with large established weeds and grass, but is also ineffective if used too early. Once weeds become large and established most of the mechanical options become ineffective and the only options that remain are mowers and strimmers. However, these only cut the weeds back rather than uproot them - a short term fix rather than long term solution.

Mulches

Unfortunately wood chips and bark are not recommended, as they can interfere with the nitrogen exchange in the soil and reduce the vines’ ability to grow. Other options are fairly limited, examples in literature are straw and paper mulches, which are fairly effective but practically very difficult to distribute in the vineyard. All that remains is the use of a side dispensing mower which ejects its clippings directly into the undervine area to build a mulch. When used correctly this can be a very effective method at suppressing weed growth and bringing organic matter into the soil.

However, to be effective a very large volume of clippings is required which means leaving the cover crop to grow to heights which may negatively impact airflow and humidity in the vineyard creating further problems.

Novel approaches

Recently a number of new and unusual alternative approaches have been developed. These include: ◆ Flaming: works by scorching weed tissue, damaging cellular structure and disrupting water and nutrient flow which kills the leaves. ◆ Foam: works in a similar way as flaming, but the heat is transferred to the weed via a hot foam made from natural plant oils. ◆ Electrical: works by transferring an electric current through the weeds and boils the plant tissue. ◆ High pressure water: works by firing high-pressure water, breaking the foliage of the weeds.

The above methods, which seem to have a number of advantages, are currently generally not ready for use in a commercial vineyard setting – and some may never be.

Flaming and electrical weeding are likely the most obvious candidates for use in a vineyard, but their efficacy is not yet high enough and costs are too large to compete with other existing methods.

To conclude, a vineyard manager must take great care in controlling the weed growth in their vineyard. Too much vegetative matter in the alleyways and undervine area contributes to nutrient and water competition, reduced airflow and higher humidity in the vineyard.

While herbicides are still available, their safe and appropriate use is encouraged with the use of well-timed mechanical options and in some instances the use of undervine mulching to complement their effectiveness.

In cases where an organic, non-herbicide approach is desired, this is very achievable, but will require more frequent and varied mechanical approaches. However, where more mechanical passes are required, there is the increased risk of compaction in the soils which can limit the grapevine's ability to source water and nutrients. Each of these advantages and drawbacks should be considered when designing a weed management programme.

DESKTOP www.vine-works.com ENVELOPE sales@vine-works.com phone-alt 01273 891777 F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | V I N E YA R D

29

A VITICULTURIST 'S DIARY

Application of the unusual Recently Sam Doncaster returned to Germany, where he had the good fortune to attend several wine tastings.

One of these wine tastings was a collection of recently released new variety wines, as made in micro-vinification form by a local research station.

For practical purposes they all get picked on the same day, and are hustled through the wine making, finished and bottled, all in a similar manner. All in tiny quantities as they are from very young vines.

Two wines really appealed to me, and I thought that they gave such a full roundness of ripe flavour that perhaps they might also do well in a slightly cooler climate, ie further north.

Another wine showed quite distinct Riesling characteristics, (flavour and structure,) and where it impressed the tasters so much, five of us, that we promptly finished the bottle!

The final interesting wine was a red, a dark 'tone' of red, but light in extraction (pale.) This had agreeable light bitter cherry flavours with a moderate Pinot Noir type of tannic depth. Not overly heavy, yet not insignificant, just very pleasant.

All of these vines carry the latest available complex multi-genetic resistance to fungal infection, whilst also indicating an interesting possible early ripening time.

Naturally work such as this is being duplicated now across Europe, where breeding teams are turning out new wine making varieties of vines in almost every wine making country.

For me it is the application of the unusual and very early ripening characteristics, that could allow fuller and more complex flavours and right out on the margins of a cool climate that interest me the most.

Especially so for the making of still, or 'table' wines.

This should allow much constructive work to be undertaken,

where growers and winemakers are able to team together, making consistently better wines as well as viable and sustainable businesses.

There are times that I wonder about how much manipulation of a 'must' is worth considering, whilst making wine from grapes that are less than fully developed. After all not only is there a lack of sugar, is it right that perhaps 20% of the resulting alcohol in a wine comes from 'crystal sunshine?' Does this not also indicate a diminished potential in possible fuller ripeness of flavour as well?

And are there not 'shadows' within a wine from chemical de-acidification? (Or perhaps a slightly 'soapy' character).

Of course this is not so applicable to sparkling wines, where their processing stems from a base point of earlier picking, and where the grapes have already reached a desired 'specification' of ripeness. The other 'built' flavour development coming from wine making skills, and activities, (lee's aging etc).

Previously I have written my views on grapes being 'fit for purpose', regarding wine making.

In doing so I clumsily wrote, and in an ill-considered form, an association to Halfpenny Green Wine Estate, where I had been working.

This was not to say in any manner that the wines made there were sub standard. Far from it as the wine making team worked in an admirable fashion to craft the best that they could.

In doing so they produce many fine wines for both their own brands, and for those of their contract wine making customers.

I regret thoughts that my remarks might have caused, suggesting that the wines could have been otherwise, and for which I apologise.

Sam Doncaster works for Volker and Marion Freytag, of Rebschule Freytag, Lachen-Speyerdorf, Neustadt an der Weinstrasse, Pfalz.

ENVELOPE samdoncaster@hotmail.com 30

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31 F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | V I N E YA R D

Laur

FROST PROTECTION

dla Ha nd

Keep your cool

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Thanks to climate change, average growing season temperatures are on the rise in the UK, leading to earlier budburst. Accordingly, the risk from early season frost is significant and unpredictable from year to year.

When planning for variable conditions, it is important to know your enemy. This is particularly true when it comes to understanding frost and the threat it poses to new growth in your vineyard.

“Frost can completely devastate the crop. It’s something I’m always paranoid about because it is so labour intensive,” says Director of Enborne Vineyard Mark Darley. “I start to lose sleep in January about losing sleep in April and May having to go out frost fighting.”

France’s agricultural ministry reported a 29% plummet in wine production across the country in 2021 after sustained frost events along with hail and disease took their toll on grape growers nationwide. To combat effectively we need understand the different types of frost and how they cause damage.

Radiation frost

When the nights are clear and calm, radiation frost is the enemy.

As the sky is colder, the ground’s warmth is transferred upwards.

Very cold air settles close to the ground, particularly in any available

32

dips in the terrain, with an inversion layer of less dense, warmer air above. This inversion layer is utilised by a number of frost protection techniques to mitigate against damage.

Humidity also offers a degree of protection from radiation frost damage. High levels of humidity in the air causes white frost on the vines. Temperatures remain close to zero and although the vine is covered in a white coat or even ice, this may actually protect the buds.

Soil moisture can also help to absorb and store heat during the day, reducing the risks at night

Advection frost

On cloudy, windy nights, advection frost is the foe. A large mass of cold air is moved in by strong winds and surrounds the vines. The temperature may dip well below 0°C and stay there into daylight hours.

Active frost protection measures rarely guard against this type of frost because of the strong winds and lack of an available source of warmer air.

How frost causes damage

Frost damages new growth when osmotic dehydration compromises the cell’s structure, or the cell wall is burst by expanding ice crystals. The amount of damage sustained depends very much on the stage of development that the buds have reached.

Dormant buds are able to tolerate very low temperatures as they have been isolated from the plant’s vascular system. They contain little water and little free space for ice crystals to form that might damage the tissue.

Once the vines are triggered to wake from their winter dormancy by prolonged periods of higher temperatures, the buds are reconnected to the vascular system and the primary buds begin to grow. As scaly buds grow, they become less dense and contain more water, so they can easily take damage in freezing temperatures. As shoots and leaves unfurl, the plant becomes even more susceptible to frost.

“The average worst temperature in this country is about minus 12°C to 14°C,” says Vine Works’ Senior Viticulturalist, Charles Martin.

“At the scaly bud stage, in those temperatures, you could lose about 50% of your crop. Then, when you have green shoots with leaves beginning to show, you can start to have an effect from the frost at just minus 2°C, so it changes dramatically as the vines develop. The trouble with the late frosts in May is that you have shoots of three or four inches long, and it’s very hard to protect those.”

Secondary and tertiary buds are contained within the bud structure, waiting to replace the primary if it is damaged. However, a shoot growing from a secondary bud may or may not bear fruit.

Secondary buds will only sprout a maximum of one inflorescence so yield will certainly be reduced if primary buds are compromised.

Regardless, the time lost when the primary buds are damaged may mean that a secondary crop does not have the time to ripen properly.

Frost damage is not always immediately visible. Young green shoots may wilt, but older, more hardened shoots may not show damage for several days. Where late frosts catch inflorescences, this too may not be seen until a few days later when they dry out and the individual flowers start to fall off.

Frost mitigation measures

Mitigating the effect of frost begins with careful planning of a vineyard to enhance the amount of heat retained by the soil and minimise the amount of time that vines are exposed to lower temperatures. Site selection, trellis design and soil management all have a role to play here.

Forewarned is forearmed. A good weather station that records the frost will give you the data needed to map where it occurs and the opportunity to plan how you will react to it. Having an accurate wet bulb temperature also helps to anticipate frost in the moment. Mark Darley, Director at Enborne Vineyards, thinks that thermal imaging drones are the next step for larger vineyards to accurately map the exact location of cold pockets during the night so that costly mitigation measures can be focused during a frost incident.

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Passive measures

Charles Martin at vineyard managers Vine Works is an advocate for natural methods of frost mitigation – planting on slopes where frost can drain away and avoiding pockets where frost will naturally collect. Varieties can play an important role too – Pinot Meunier buds later and is a stronger vine, so that can be a good choice for frost-prone areas of the vineyard. <<

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33

FROST PROTECTION “The effects of frost can be huge, “ Charles says. “I’ve seen frost travel down a road. Somebody had left the gate open and the frost went down through the gateway and into the vineyard. You could see where the frost affected the plants. It always follows that easy path so it’s worthwhile doing what you can to channel the frost.

“Remove all the trees and scrub from the lowest part of your vineyard, so the frost can funnel away without being impeded. If you’ve got an advection frost, the cold winds come in from the north so if you put in a tree barrier that can help to divert it a bit. Then when the frost comes in, drink a glass of whiskey and wait for it to pass.”

One of the most straightforward practical measures you can take in an established vineyard is to prune accordingly in frost prone areas. As vines have apical dominance – the buds furthest away from the trunk will grow

<<

first – pruning late in the Spring can help delay the growth of the buds you wish to protect.

Double pruning or using the ‘sacrificial cane’ technique can also help to delay the growth of your chosen primary buds until after the frost risk has passed.

Wind machines

The Tow & Blow is a portable wind machine developed in New Zealand. It captures the heat rising from the soil and blows it back over the vines, stopping ground temperatures from decreasing to a point where frost can form. It can be angled to give flexibility for vines planted on a range of elevations. The Tow & Blow is distributed in the UK by Vitifruit Equipment.

“Being a mobile frost protection, it can be moved to wherever you need it to be effective,” Vitifruit’s Managing Director Richard Whitt tells me. “It’s very easy to set up and it runs independently, so it doesn’t need to

be connected to an electricity supply. The machine can be pre-programmed to come on at a certain temperature so that it can be left unattended overnight.” Depending on the contours of the land, the smaller model, the Tow & Blow 250h can protect around three to four hectares, while the larger model, the 650i, works to a radius of around five hectares.

Irrigation systems

Irrigation as a frost mitigation measure protects against both advection and radiation frost, at perhaps the lowest temperatures of any measure, down to minus 8°C. As the temperature of the water being sprayed is higher than the air and the vine, it creates a warmer microclimate. The water creates a thin layer of ice around the plant, and as the water freezes, latent heat is released.

As long as the water is continuously applied, this process continues, preventing the <<

Frost damage vs temperature at different growth stages – Protect your vines Growth stage

Closed

Bud scales

Woolly bud

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First leaf separated

2-3 leaves separated

Shoots 2-4cm long

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Temperature

34

N.B. This does not take into account time of exposure to the different temperatures – longer exposure times lead to more damage ©Vine-Works Ltd

F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | V I N E YA R D

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The Crop Candle Company supplied Whitehall Vineyard << bud from reaching the damaging low temperature of the air.

“The benefits of the Plantex 360 automation include targeting specific areas of the vineyard which are affected differently by frost,” Ewan Worsley, Plantex’s Managing Director, explains. Plantext UK are a provider of technical irrigation solutions across a range of industries, with particular expertise in vineyards.

“In-field sensors mean your specified temperature and humidity level is automatically detected, giving you peace of mind that your water and energy usage is as minimal as possible,” Ewan continues.

The sprinklers and control system have a long life span and can be integrated with a drip irrigation system to irrigate and fertigate your vineyard.

Bougie Candles

36

Lighting small bonfires, and then oil-filled smudge pots, to ward off unexpected frosts is a long-standing method of active frost fighting.

Stopgel has been synonymous with the production of modern antifrost candles since 1995.

“We were originally, and still are, grape growers and famers ourselves and we started making this product to answer our own needs” Cédric Chazalet explains. “The candles we put on the market are the same candles we use to protect our own crops. Stopgel actually translates in English as ‘to stop frost.’

“Thanks to this we improved the candles on two key points,” Cédric continues. “First, Stopgel Green candles have very low smoke emissions compared to petroleum-based candles for more responsible protection of vineyards and orchards. Second, and this is perhaps the most important, thanks to a raw material which is unique to our products, Stopgel Green candles perform better as they have a significantly higher calorific value per hour than petroleum candles.

Additionally to this, each candle has a serial number for extra quality assurance.”

Stopgel Green candles are contained within in stackable metal buckets and burn for up to eight hours. They use a unique natural and renewable stearin “wax” that produces 50% more energy than a paraffin or petroleum candle and emits much less smoke. It is also a biodegradable product. Two hundred candles per hectare are required at minus 2°C, and by increasing the numbers used, they can be effective down to minus 7°C.

F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | V I N E YA R D

Eco friendly crop candles use 100% vegetable wax with refills to avoid throwing empty cans into landfill Tim Jeffs, Founder of The Crop Candle Company worked with Sustainable Wines of Great Britain to come up with something that was more eco-friendly and more economical than traditional paraffin candles. They offer a 100% vegetable wax candle that emits significantly less carbon per hour than those traditional types. The Crop Candle burns for 12 hours, covering a five metre radius. Eight hour refills are available to drop in after the wax is depleted, so the same container can be reused four or five times.

“This dramatically reduces the number of candle cans going to landfill at the end of the season,” Tim said. “We have listened to how vineyards would like their candles to be made better, so as well as looking for a more environmental solution, we provide wood shavings that go in the top of the candle to speed up the lighting time.

“If another frost protection method becomes compromised, our candles are great to have in the shed. They are a good insurance to have as they have a five year shelf life.” Tim suggests ordering early to have Crop Candles on hand well before any Spring frosts. The Crop Candle team are also on hand to advise vineyards about when to burn their candles, avoiding wasted effort when the buds are still small << enough to be resistant to lower temperatures.

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Heating systems

Some vineyards are experimenting with placing heating cables along the trellis wires as a frost protection method. At Hencote in Shropshire, this system has been trialled since 2020 under the guidance of NIAB East Malling Research.

“The area covers 0.25Ha with cables that warm the sap of the vine through contact with the radiated heat of the insulated cables,” explains Winemaker Gavin Patterson. “The trial is ongoing. Inevitably there is a high cost to fight frost, in equipment, manpower and energy, it is therefore important to consider what methods are employed carefully to suit each vineyard site. At Hencote we have not yet settled on our long term method and our standard practice for frost mitigation at this stage remains the age-old method of the use of wax frost candles.”

Mark Dawley at Enborne is about to trial one of the latest technological advancements in the battle against frost. They are installing infrared lighting modules into their smallest vineyard because it has direct power and the system can simply be plugged into the mains. A series of separate modules are linked by waterproof connectors, so it can be extended as much as necessary to suit your vines. Frolight is distributed by Plantex UK. “We’ve trialled lots of methods over the years, and this one looks as though it could be a bit of a game changer for us,” Mark says. “Frolight

are guaranteeing frost protection down to minus 6°C. It provides protection over a 30cm diameter radius from where the tubes are, clipped to the spurs of the vine and along the fruiting wire. The more established heated wire system is very effective for small buds, but once they grow 5cm or so away from the wire it’s not going to provide you with protection. If the infrared does prove to be as effective as they say, then it is going to be more than adequate later in the season.”

This electrical system has been used successfully in Burgundy and Champagne. It can be fully automated and the use of infrared radiation as a heat transfer medium means that there are no major energy losses, regardless of wind or rain. We look forward to hearing more about how well it works for All Angels if they have frost events in the coming Spring.

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38 F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | V I N E YA R D

MACHINERY ADVICE AND TIPS

Protecting high-value crops from the frost

BROUGHT TO YOU BY

Spring frosts are one of the worst threats vineyard owners face.

Frost damage is devastating not just for the producer but the wider industry too, as smaller crops often mean less for the pickers, the contract wineries, the packaging and labelling suppliers, and retailers too.

While the best way to prevent damage is to ensure the right varieties of vines are planted on the right frost-free site, growers have long needed to adopt other methods to mitigate the impact inflicted on young buds when the temperature drops.

One of the oldest methods used to protect vines is by heating the air in the vineyard.

Many UK growers have adopted the traditional French practice of placing and lighting bougies, however, these require a significant amount of labour to set them out and light them (often during the small hours of the night).

Those looking for a more efficient approach have long chosen to use the Frostbuster and Frostguards from Agrofrost.

Unlike other frost protection systems, the working principle is not based on raising the temperature above the critical values but on phase transition and controlling the forming of hoarfrost which is the biggest enemy for flowers and buds.

Without protection, the layer of hoarfrost will increase and finally cause damage to the plant by dehydration as the ice crystals extract energy and humidity from the buds and flowers.

The Frostbuster and Frostguards, which are supplied to UK growers by leading viticultural machinery specialists NP Seymour, form a hot air stream every seven to 10 minutes, so part of the ice evaporates while the remaining ice gets energy from the passing air.

The higher the humidity, the more energy is transferred. This allows growers to protect crops with only a fraction of the energy input that is needed by other systems.

The Frostbuster works by burning gas to provide a heated air supply, which is then blown by a tractor-driven fan. By driving around the vineyard following a pre-determined route, it is possible to protect an area of up to eight hectares.

It allows growers to protect crops at sites where no water is available and can be used not only during radiation frost but also during wind frost.

Alternatively, the Frostguard is a smaller, stationary version of the Frostbuster, featuring a petrol engine-powered fan which can rotate 360° continuously, to protect up to one hectare of vines.

For more information on the Frostguard and Frostbuster from Agrofrost, as well as the other frost protection equipment NP Seymour offers, please phone the office on 01580 712200 or email sales@npseymour.co.uk

39 F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | V I N E YA R D

Rob S

AGRONOMY DIARY

ders un

Delving into detail about soil pH

a

Ch r is

Although vines are generally quite resilient to varied growing conditions, soil pH is an important factor to monitor regularly, due to its influence on the plant availability of nutrients.

The Liebig principle applies here: The least available nutrient comes to be the growth limiting factor, even if all other nutrients are available in luxury amounts. It is best visualized as a wooden barrel with variable height staves, each representing a different nutrient. The lowest stave will dictate the maximum amount of water the barrel can hold.

In the cool UK climate, higher soil pH (above 7.3) makes vines more prone to iron deficiency, while boron, phosphate, manganese, magnesium and to a lesser extent, potassium availability can all be reduced beyond pH 8 to 8.5.

The nutrients are still present, but chemical interactions in more alkaline soils cause them to be unavailable for plant uptake. In extremes, this causes visible chlorosis, but more frequently just sub-optimal growth and lower grape quality. Where nutrients are sub-optimal, physiological disorders can occur. For example, millerandage risk increases where boron and zinc are limited just before flowering.

Low pH causes problems too. Below pH 6.0, problems with nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium, calcium and molybdenum are often encountered.

Generally, few growers establish vineyards on very acidic soils, however waterlogging and/or poor drainage can cause acidity to increase, and sandier soils are prone to acidity increasing over time due to their lower cation exchange capacity (CEC). It therefore pays to test soils regularly, and is a legal requirement under DEFRA’s farming rules for water for England.

40

Terramap analysis often reveals interesting and sometimes significant variations in soil pH, even within a relatively small area. In one six ha field recently mapped in Kent, for example, pH ranged from 6.2 to 8, which was thought to be impacting on crop performance.

Remember, pH is measured on a logarithmic scale, so the physical impact of a single point shift may be much greater than it sounds.

Buffer pH

When discussing pH, we must differentiate between the soil’s normal water pH and its buffer pH, essentially the natural ‘resting' pH. Surface interventions, such as applying ammonium fertilisers (especially ammonium sulphate), which lowers pH, or lime, which raises pH, will push any soil away from its buffer pH, often resulting in pH differences through the profile.

The extent of this variation depends on past land use and how much soil mixing occurred from tillage practices, but generally a larger pH gradient is likely where soil was previously undisturbed (e.g. after old permanent pasture).

Remedial actions

On sites destined for planting new vines, rootstock selection should be tailored to the soil’s active calcium level.

The SO4 rootstock is one of the most widely grown in the UK, and generally favours soil of pH 6.5-7.5, while on more alkaline soils above 7.5, Fercal may be better. In more acidic soils, Gravsac is a consideration.

For established vineyards requiring lime to nudge from acid towards alkali, agricultural liming equipment is too large, so the alternative is a granulated limestone product such as Calcifert. The material can

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Cooper

Soil pH can significantly impact vineyard productivity and grape quality. Hutchinsons agronomists Rob Saunders and Chris Cooper explain why, and show how to address any issues.

be applied with a regular fertiliser spreader, and has been finely ground, giving a larger surface area in relation to its volume, making it available to soil and plants faster than agricultural lime products with large aggregates.

Lime is best applied in early spring, but avoid applying to frozen ground, or when there is risk of material being washed off before it can work its way into the soil. The same applies to any granular fertiliser.

The quantity of lime required is related to soil texture (relative proportions of clay, silt and sand). Generally, sandy soil requires less material to move the pH by a given amount than a clay soil, due to inherent differences in CEC. However, sandier soils are less able to hold onto lime and other nutrients, so are at greater risk of pH slippage.

On high pH chalky soils, most growers will apply an iron sulphate or iron metalosate type product in spring to address potential deficiencies, supported with foliar applications of key nutrients where required through the growing period.

In-season tissue testing, typically at early flowering, and possibly again at veraison, is worthwhile for tailoring nutritional programmes to soil and crop requirements.

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Balanced

The balanced approach provides some protection and offers the best flexibility for the creation of diverse blending components between still and sparkling as it can be adapted from batch to batch and each pressing fraction can be treated differently according to taste/target. This promotes a lasting fruit expression, good ageing potential and the expression of secondary and tertiary aromas.

Reductive

The reductive approach promotes the preservation of primary aromas with a certain phenolic structure and a moderate

an t

In order to keep it simple we will take the case of a single estate where the vineyard surrounds the winery. Even so, with the right set up, the grapes can also travel a few miles or be de-juiced for settling onsite before despatch. Key point: once the berry is detached from the stem, some juice is extracted, thus, maceration and oxidative processes get started: is this good or bad? It depends what we want to achieve.

Let’s explore some possible approaches in the UK context focusing on oxidation and maceration (extraction): ◆ Oxidative ◆ Balanced ◆ Reductive.

In the oxidative approach we don’t use any oxidation/microbial precaution such as SO2, tannins, ascorbic acid, inert gas, chitosan, etc.

This can be indicated for non-aromatic wines where shelf life/ageing is important like in sparkling bases. In this scenario, we’ll oxidise some compounds, generate new ones and potentially protect the shelf life: how is this possible? Well, if oxidation happens at juice stage we’ll lose some compounds, (mostly phenolics and free primary aromas if any), that can’t be part of the oxidative processes anymore, making the wine last longer with very good ageing potential and tertiary aromas potential. The level of oxidation can be managed at will and it works great for example with pressings decreasing colour and tannins in the finished wine.

i ng Consu lt

How about the quality for still and sparkling wines? What changes in winemaking?

Oxidative

ma k

Harvest machines became more popular in the old wine world 40 years ago. They improve the efficiency by dropping the manual work in a vineyard by 30%-40%.

Harvest is a delicate time-sensitive operation where hostile climate and disease appearance can represent expensive issues.

With enough crop per meter, the picking can be cheaper, way quicker and more eco-friendly, as in most cases, it requires only two operators in the vineyard for both: picking and transporting the grapes to the winery. Harvesters also allow using the winery equipment at full potential making processing faster and cheaper, while saving cleaning water, time and energy. We normally process two to three times more grapes compared to hand picking: e.g. 18 tonnes, three people, with a three tonnes press in a 17 hour shift. By leaving the stem on the vine, (3%-7% in weight and 30% or more in volume), the marc management is easier.

i ne

Does the beauty of machine harvesting give beautiful wines?

I’ve been an independent winemaking consultant in the UK for 10 years and I’m very excited to start my series of articles with this topic by sharing my experience. shelf life (except red wines, we might talk about them another time). This wine will need a high level of protection during its entire life and it can be suitable for aromatic still and sparkling wines (charmat).

In all cases, it is crucial to manage maceration and oxidation according to the target, e.g. longer and balanced macerations for rosé, and aromatic white grapes with precursors, less for non-aromatic and even less for classic sparkling bases which include quick de-juicing from picking (timing).

Some phenols can be reduced with positive effects in most cases by promoting oxidation at juice and/or using PVPP, proteins etc in different steps.

In summary, it all depends and yes, machine harvested grapes can make quality wines of many kinds as long as we apply the “right” criteria and equipment accordingly.

The above can also be applied to hand picked grapes based on target.

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Performing sensory assessments

ru

n pto

Critical points to think about when tasting and blending.

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Technically, wine is always in a state of flux and never truly stable.

Many small scale chemical reactions are ongoing once wine has been stabilised such as tannins polymerising and hydrolysing into different compounds.

It is particularly important to be aware of this for your wine flavour profile and its development as well as also to check against wine taints or faults that may be occurring at the early stages.

With the bottling and blending season just around the corner, it is not just the ability to taste for faults which is important but also to taste for flavour and mouthfeel.

There are a few different techniques and methods for sensory assessment methods such as the duo-trio; paired comparison; paired preference; same/different; and the triangle test. It is important for winemakers to choose the right method for the necessary application, so consider if you are looking at adding something during the winemaking process to improve aroma, or flavour, as well as mouthfeel and structure.

A triangle test is a more commonly used method. The protocol involved is one where tasters assess the aroma and palate of the three wines and circle the code of the sample that is different from the other two. If no difference is perceived, the taster must guess. It is important to ensure minimum tasters in order to make the assessment statistically significant, with four out of five people correctly identifying the different wine.

Below are important considerations to uphold to ensure a good and correct sensory assessment to get the best out of the wine tasting. ◆ Blind tasting is recommended. Blind tasting means that the taster has no idea which wine is being tasted and the order is randomised with no clues or hints to minimise bias. ◆ Include a minimum of two independent tasters into the tasting group.

People’s ability to taste varies with some tasters able to recognise, or not, certain aromas that the other might not be able to pick up. ◆ Training with standardised kits is important to better understand wine faults. It also allows individuals and staff to improve their tasting and sensory skills and can increase your range of tasters for specific aromas and taints. ◆ Perform multiple tastings. Guessing is quite common and there are other risks of people making mistakes. To reduce the effect of human error, without increasing the number of tasters, you can repeat the tasting in a different order to ensure a statistically significant result. ◆ Maintain a good tasting environment. Visual stimulation, tiredness, fill height, temperature and other visual and external sensory cues can all change the sensory perception of flavours. Maintaining consistency in the tasting room with pre-poured 30ml samples at a constant temperature (20oc) with random presentation and limiting the length of time the tasting takes place (one hour max) should keep the tasting consistent. ◆ Communication should be kept to a minimum between tasters. Tasters should be quiet and keep judgements private, even body language should be controlled as much as possible, in case this influences another taster’s judgement. Facing away from each other and using

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their own scoring sheet is imperative. ◆ Don’t taste when tired. Tiredness, hunger and emotional state can affect a tasting. Generally keep tastings at least half an hour after a meal or drinking. The morning is generally preferred. Limit the number of samples to be tasted to six or seven and allow for a short rest before the next flight of samples are to be tasted. ◆ Consider difference before preference. Identifying a difference between the wines is more important than choosing the preferred wine. It is important to establish a significant difference between the samples otherwise there is little point in changing from the original wine. Preference is important and can persuade someone to choose one sample over the other, while this is helpful in the decision making it is critical to identify a real difference between the samples that can be reliably, and repeatedly, identified before making costly decisions.

Wine faults and taints

Although always to be avoided where possible, dealing with wine faults is part of the course for a winemaker. It is vital to correct issues that may arise during the winemaking process. Being able to identify the common faults and understanding your own limitations in recognising certain faults is important in being able to address issues and minimise further reduction in wine quality.

Wine taints are different from faults as they typically have an exogenous source such as cork taint whereas faults come from the winemaking process. Common taints and faults are listed below and there are a great range of Laffort products that can help reduce or remove some of these issues. It is, however, always best to avoid them in the first place by employing best practice in winemaking and later bottling and packaging.

Wine faults

Wine taints

Oxidation-ty pe faults

Cork-ty pe taints

◆

◆

◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

Oxidation Acetaldehyde Volatile acidity Ethyl acetate Mousiness

Additive-related faults ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

Sulfur dioxide (SO2) Diacetyl Geranium Brettanomyces faults

◆ ◆

2,4,6-Trichloroanisole (TCA) 2,4,6-Tribromoanisole (TBA) 2-Methoxy-3,5-dimethyl pyrazine (Fungal must)

Chlorophenol/ Plastic-type taints ◆ ◆

2,4- + 2,6 -Dichlorophenol Indole

Earthy-ty pe taints Reductive wine faults ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

Hydrogen sulfide Mercaptans Disulfides Dimethyl sulfide (DMS)

◆

Geosmin

Smoke taint ◆ ◆

Guaiacol 4-Methylguaiacol

Products available from Laffort to enhance sweetness and mouthfeel: OENOLEES®

Specific preparation of yeast cell walls with a high sapid peptide content (Patent EP 1850682). OENOLEES® contributes towards improving organoleptic quality in wine by reducing aggressive sensations, refi ning action that promotes elimination of certain polyphenols responsible for bitterness and astringency. It also increases sweet sensations specific peptide fraction that has an extremely low perception threshold (16 mg/L against 3 g/L for sucrose) and helps to reduce Ochratoxin A levels. Dosage: 20-40 g/hL

MANNOSPARK®

From each flute of sparkling wine, no fewer than a million bubbles are set free!

The harmonious organisation of this whirlwind of bubbles in the glass is extremely stimulating to the senses when tasting: to the ear, but also and above all to the eye.

The aesthetics of the effervescence is a decisive criterion for consumers who aspire to fine, elegant and persistent bubbles regularly supplying a generous and stable rim to form a harmonious foam.

MANNOSPARK® is a formulation based on mannoproteins, resulting from a research programme launched by LAFFORT® in 2014, in collaboration with the University of Reims, to improve bubble size and the thickness and stability of the rim.

OENOLEES® MP

Yeast cell wall extract (mannoproteins) rich in sapid peptide (Patent EP 1850682) and polysaccharides. Contributes to increasing the sweetness sensation in wines (red and white). Allows the winemaker to better counterbalance acidity and bitterness. Can be used just prior to bott ling. Dosage: 10-30 g/hL.

TANFRESH®

Instantly dissolving (IDP) ellagic and proanthocyanidic tannin preparation based on grape tannins. To refresh white and rosé wine against oxidation and aty pical ageing. To boost structure and mouthfeel. To help eliminate reductive odours. Dosage: 0,5-6 g/hL

POWERLEES® LIFE

Formulation based on 100% yeast derivatives, suitable for Organic winemaking.

POWERLEES® LIFE is particularly rich in reducing compounds including reduced glutathione.

R&D work on the study of alternatives to sulphites during ageing allowed us to select these inactivated yeasts for their ability to slow down oxygen consumption in wines.

Used once or several times throughout ageing, POWERLEES® LIFE protects wines from premature oxidation, refreshes already oxidised wines and increases ageing potential. Very high protection potential, particularly in the context of producing wines without added sulphites.

QUERTANIN® Q2

Stave-grade ellagitannins extracted from the heartwood of American oak for the ageing of white, red and rosé wines.

Developed using an innovative extraction process, QUERTANIN® Q2 has all the qualities of American oak. QUERTANIN® Q2 acts on the tannic structure and contributes to the balance of wines by regulating redox phenomena and by recreating a medium rich in ellagitannins identical to that provided by a new barrel.

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45

Representing you Working in partnership with Vineyard magazine for a developing UK wine industry.

WineGB is the national trade body representing the vine growers and winemakers of Great Britain from the largest producers to small hobbyists.

Our members work together with the organisation to develop strategy, expertise and marketing opportunities for long-term, sustainable success.

FACEBOOK-F twitter INSTAGRAM LINKEDIN-IN

@winegb @Wine_GB @winegb @winegb

If you are interested in wine production in the UK find out more about WineGB and join us. Visit our website www.winegb.co.uk

WineGB Industry Conference Our first major event of the 2023 calendar will be the WineGB Industry Conference, taking place on 6 March at Denbies Wine Estate in Surrey from 9am to 4:30pm. The event will combine talks on winemaking, viticulture, sustainability, business and marketing and is open both to WineGB members, who benefit from a discounted rate, and to non-members.

The day will begin with addresses from keynote speakers as well as a presentation of the latest industry data, sourced from the WineGB Industry Survey and the Wine Standards Agency. This will be followed by several concurrent breakout sessions on a variety of industry topics with an emphasis on looking ahead and planning for our future. Join

46

us to learn about the latest trends, share knowledge and network with your peers.

Visit the events section of the WineGB website where you will find more information and the Eventbrite link to purchase tickets.

Book now and benefit from a discounted early-bird rate.

For more information or to enquire about sponsorship of this event, please contact Angelina@winegb.co.uk

On the website…

Don’t forget to explore the new and improved WineGB website. In the spotlight this month is our sustainability scheme, Sustainable Wines of Great Britain.

Visit the ‘Sustainability Goals’ page – www.winegb.co.uk/who-we-are/sustainability-goals – to find out more about SWGB’s key objectives which include reducing the carbon footprint of vineyards and wineries; improving soil health; promoting biodiversity; and optimising canopy management and grape yields.

On the ‘Making our wines more sustainable' page you can explore how the scheme operates, including its use of ground-breaking technology, its Trade Mark, information bulletins and Rule Book – www.winegb.co.uk/our-wines/making-our-wines-sustainable The full list of members, together with those who are accredited (have passed their SWGB audit) can be found on this page: www.winegb.co.uk/our-wines/making-our-wines-sustainable/swgb-members

Membership of WineGB entitles you to a 10% discount on packaging supplied by WineGB Gold Patron WBC. For more information and how to join, please email phoebe@winegb.co.uk

For more information about the scheme, please contact Laura Tattam at laura@winegb.co.uk

JOIN WINEGB

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MACHINERY

Performance ahead of price Morris Lubricants urges farmers and growers to prioritise engine oil performance with its top five maintenance tips.

Morris Lubricants is advising farmers and growers to put oil, lubricant and grease performance ahead of price as they prepare their tractors for the new season.

With rising prices hitting the agricultural community hard, such as the steep increase in fertiliser costs having a significant impact on the sector, it can be tempting to look for short term savings elsewhere. Choosing a cheap, alternative oil to the manufacturer’s specification, at a lower price, may seem like a sound investment.

However, says Adrian Hill, Morris Lubricants' Technology Manager, selecting the wrong, and usually, an inferior quality oil may result in significant, long-term consequences to equipment performance and in the end, an overall increase in running cost.

The company, which manufacturers the specialist Agrimax range of agricultural lubricants for a wide range of tractors, vehicles and farming equipment, has just launched a new video series with tractor enthusiast and mechanic Guy Martin. The short videos demonstrate that no matter the agricultural vehicle, equipment type, brand or model, choosing the correct oil, lubricant and grease can have a positive impact on uptime and profitability.

Adrian outlines the company’s top tips for farmers as they prepare their vehicles for the new season.

Service intervals

Investing in a new or modern tractor is a significant capital expense, and farmers and farming contractors need the assurance that the investment will perform reliably over many years. After the initial three-year manufacturer’s service schedule, some owners may choose to delay future servicing, but this can prove false economy.

Engine oil over time may start to degrade, causing damage to vital engine components, so it is always advisable to meet the manufacturer’s recommended service intervals.

Right oil for the right job

Some older machinery may have always operated reliably using a universal tractor oil, but modern diesel particulate filters can be sensitive to these universal oils. Instead, farmers should ensure they are using the correct oils for both the engine and the transmission (back end) systems.

Seek technical advice

Machinery downtime is not only costly but can damage reputation if stock or deliveries are affected. Seeking professional advice regarding the correct engine oil specification, or service intervals will always pay dividends.

Morris Lubricants has a dedicated team of experts on hand to provide the latest oil, lubricant and grease recommendations for a wide variety of agricultural vehicles and equipment. Whether it’s a tractor, combine harvester, mini digger, or an all-terrain vehicle (ATV), the Morris Lubricants Technical team has the appropriate solution to keep tractors and other equipment working in the field rather than stuck in the workshop.

Choose performance rather than price

Adrian concludes, “Choosing the right engine oil for the right tractor is a key part of equipment maintenance. It should be seen as a cost-effective and proactive means of protecting engine performance and ensuring equipment longevity.

“The fifth and probably the most important tip is to be guided by performance and not purchase price. This will ensure that farmers do not need to spend additional budget, at a time when costs are already at a premium, on unnecessary repair work.

“This is one of the key areas we discuss with Guy Martin in our new video series, which concludes with why engine oil quality matters.”

Quality first

Modern tractor engines are now designed to Stage V emissions compliance for off-highway vehicles, to meet the latest emissions legislation. These modern engines will include after treatment devices, such as AdBlue systems, diesel oxidation catalysts and diesel particulate filters, to limit harmful particulate matter and NOx emissions.

Oil choice is important. Selecting the correct, high-quality oil will more than pay for the slightly higher purchase price in the long run.

For example, an incorrectly specified engine oil can block catalysts or filters, potentially leading to significant remedial costs in the region of £3,000 or more for the replacement part, plus the additional cost of the repair and downtime itself.

49

Covering South & South East England

Vitifruit Equipment Sales and Hire

FAN SPRAYERS

SPRAYERS

PROVITIS PRE-PRUNER

BOISSELET CULTIVATORS & STRIMMERS

MOWERS: GRASS & PRUNINGS

PROVITIS CANE PULLER

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 vitifruitequipment@sky.com

 01732 866567

be seen as the machine is capable, with one operator, to pull out three hectares per day.

When Vitifruit Equipment initially studied the system in the Loire valley the vigneron was pulling out between three to four hectares per day whilst also mulching the prunings with a flail mower at the rear of the tractor. With this reduction in overall time taken in the vineyard he was also able to get on with pruning faster (as there was no manual pulling out) and reduce the number of people employed during pruning.

To get the machine to work to its full

D

Witt

A significant part of winter pruning costs are taken up by pulling out the cut canes from the wirework.

On average 40% to 45% of the total winter labour cost is taken up in this activity. In order to see if it is possible to reduce that cost Vitifruit Equipment have loaned their Provitis VSE 430 machine to Chapel Down Vineyard for a trial lasting a number of days.

This trial will give a true account of performance and will be used to compare it to their traditional hand pulling out method.

It is hoped that significant cost savings will

ard

DESKTOP www.vitifruitequipment.co.uk phone-alt 01732 866567 ENVELOPE vitifruitequipment@sky.com

ch

Reducing winter pruning costs

Sayel l & R d i i av

VITIFRUIT EQUIPMENT capacity some initial work is required at the time of secateur work to place the cut canes in the appropriate position so that they can easily be pulled out sideways from the trellis, and one or more wires may need to be dropped or lifted to ensure a continuous flow of canes through the machine.

The machine itself sits on a multi function mast which can also be used with a trimmer, de leafer, multi brush bud rubber/weed strimmer, pre-pruner, canopy lifter and tucking in tool. All these tools are available for hire or sale from Vitifruit Equipment.

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EQUIPMENT SUPPLY • SERVICE & SUPPORT TOP MANUFACTURING PARTNERS

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