Trends and Forecasting

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Student name:Keleigh Abram Student number:201348766

Lifestyle shift overview

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Customer profile

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BRand essence

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Trend Concept

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trend mood/colour

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yarns & fabrics

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key silhouettes

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retail aspects

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CONTENTS

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TABLE OF

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PHASE ONE LIFESTYLE SHIFT OVERVIEW This trend package is an in-depth trend forecast for the design team at With Jean’s S/S22 season. The trend package will explore the lifestyle trend, ‘hyperconscious Consumers’, to form a successful creative direction for the upcoming season.

A noticeable long term “change in consumer’s attitudes and behaviours” (Hingham, W. 2009), in contemporary soicety, is that of ‘Conscious consumerism.’ A movement emerging as a subcategory of the megatrend, sustainability, conscious consumerism is a consequence of the current zeitgeist with multiple drivers influencing a shift in consumer behaviours. In line with educational progressions, like the ‘Greta Effect’ and the Ellen Mcarther foundation, spotlighting fast fashions catastrophic carbon footprint (Ellen Mcarther Foundation, 2017) consumers have become increasingly aware of their shopping habits impact on the environment. In particular, fashion sectors produce a significance in waste production and intensification of water scarcity (Gazzola et al. 2020). Furthermore, with the rise of the lifestyle ‘conscious consumerism’, the demand for brand transparency is not limited to environmental ethics, extending to the ethics in manufacturing and sourcing in the enlightenment of the “plights of vulnerable fashion workers” (Mckinsey, 2021).

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The detrimental effects of fast fashion have inflicted a change to fashion businesses to align with the emerging consumer needs. A large portion of consumers across a majority of sectors have responsibly shifted behaviours to more sustainable alternatives.

As reported by Gazzola et al (2020): the more common demographic of the ‘conscious consumer’, that is, on average, more aware and informed, are women between the ages of 18 -34 with a decent educational background. By connecting to the consumer

and adhering to their needs brands, offers brands the opportunity to gain a competitive edge whilst adding brand value and personality (Batra and Keller, 2016).

In terms of the promotion for the fashion business, adhering to the needs of the conscious consumer is a profitable task, where brands can simultaneously create admirable brand ethos whilst circulating the economy through a more sustainable business plan (Anushka, J. 2021).

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CUSTOMER PROFILING

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“By creating our individual pieces rather than collections we hope to continue to deliver pieces as timeless as your vintage blue’s” (By Jean, 2021)

The target consumers are young females aged 20 -35. With a decent educational and financial background graduating with a degree or higher, currently working or interning in the creative industry. Single or in a non-serious relationship, they live independently. Living in a decent-sized apartment in a city, proximity to a beach.

They have a booming social calendar, with past times like taking trips to the seaside, picnics in the park with friends, going to the gym and shopping. They are left-wing political, who are motivated to stand up for what they believe in, with a particular spark in feminism and environmentalism.

Financially comfortable, with a disposable income that can cater for their busy social life and accommodate their shopping addiction. On weekends, if they’re not working overtime creating or making art, they are just as busy attending social events and frequenting the weekend workshop/gym classes. They get involved in activities to expand their skillset and satisfy their need for constant selfimprovement, a radical growing market, according to Bell, A (WGSN, 2020).

They rarely make time to lounge inside, constantly outside or at work, in line with their disdain for laziness. In between their social breaks, they spend a lot of time finding inspiration from influencers on YouTube or Instagram or reading articles from fashion magazines like vogue.

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Their lifestyle requires an ontrend approach to their fashion choices, as they are constantly in company and care about their appearance. With the confidence to dress in bright colours, they are outgoing individuals who aren’t scared to stand out. They value quality and transparency with brands, reading into the essence behind the brands they shop

from. Heavily reliant on their own judgement, they arent quick to trust brands (Hingham, W. 2009) They are incredibly conscious of ethical shopping and sustainability, willing to pay the price for quality and sustainability, following the mantra of quality over quantity.

This is all in line with their immense care for the planet and spreading positivity.

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Demographics

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Name: Saskia Spence Gender: Female Age: 24 Marital Status: Single Location: Los Angeles Occupation: Fashion Journalist Annual income: $58,000 Education: Bachelor of Arts degree in English literature and language

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Pyschographics

Cares about appearance (goes to gym/yoga) Very passionate about her career Booming social life Feminist, concerned with women liberation Art fanatic Values family and friend relationships.

Values sustainability Vegetarian, experimenting with veganism. only shops in organic or farmer markets for fruti and vegetables.

MEET SASKIA

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Behavioural

Avid shopper. She shops online when she cant shop in-store.

If she isn’t thrifting for designer brands (for sustainability), she shops at the mid-market level due to her preference for quality clothing and brand transparency. Her taste in clothes is very fashion-forward, colourful and confident.

Her favourite places to shop are Verge Girl, Free People, Triangl & House of Sunny.

SEE APPENDICES A FOR CUSTOMER PROFIL

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A DAY IN THE LIFE Morning

Evening

7 AM: Wakes up, checks her social sites.

Makes a nutritious, vegan breakfast, perhaps a buddha bowl, with a ritual matcha tea. Then heads to her morning yoga class, grabbing an oat latte on the way.

5PM: She finishes up on the section for tonight, grabs her coat and heads to the organic store after work. She has a shopping list and buys her usual fruits and vegetables.

6PM: upon arriving home, she will put her speakers on and listen to indie radio whilst she unpacks her ggroceries from her reusable tote bag, and get started on her dinner with a glass of wine.

8:30 AM: Returning home, she showers whilst listening to her spotify ‚shower‘ playlist. She carries out her extensive skin care routine, from her favourite (cruelty free) brands. Sticks on a well thought out, fashion forward outfit.

7:30PM: after eating dinner, she will start to get ready for the bar with her friends, she ties her hair back in an off duty model bun, does her makeup using her cruelty free makeup and sticks on her new outfit.

9 AM: After sitting on Instagram/ pinterst for some daily catching up on social sites, she packs her essentials in her bag (airpods, lip gloss, journal and crystals) and completes her daily affirmations.

9:30 AM: She leaves for work.

At Work

10 AM: Arrives at work, catches up with her collegues before arriving at her desk.

10:45 AM: She begins writing her piece on sustainability as an emerging trend in Gen Z, whilst having another oat milk latte to keep her awake.

12 PM: After sitting at her desk researching, she takes a half an hour social media break to facetime her mother, and then scroll instagram and Tiktok (unconsciously collecting information for her report) 2 PM: To break up her time sitting at the desk, she nvites her work best friend for lunch in the local cafe,where she has a avacado sour dough bagel with salsa, and gossips about the staff drama.

12AM: After a long night of chatting and dancing, she will come home, skin care, remove makeup, light candles and set into her bed to watch netflix untill she falls asleep.

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BRAND ESSENCE Brand Selection &

OPPORTUNITY FOR INNOVATION To choose a brand, I created a brand perception map (see Appendix B), this aided in navigating which brand was most appropriate in line with consumer and the chosen lifestyle shift: ‘Conscious Consumerism’.

The brand, With Jean, highly regards consumer needs of quality and . Being an up and coming brand there is a lot of room for opportunities to apply to their s/s22 season along with innovations applicable to the lifestyle trend. With Jean are well on their way to moulding to the needs of the conscious consumer with an already stable sustainable ethos.

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Furthermore, With Jean cofounders claim to have been “conscious consumers before [they] were With Jéan’s parents, so from the very beginning built the necessary practices into [their] business model to ensure [they] were always in support of ethical labour.” (With Jean, 2021). However, with this upcoming trend, in such a saturated market there is always room for innovation. With Jean have built relevant foundations to further build upon, regarding the needs of the consumer, valuing fashion-forward, sustainable and ethical clothing.

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“WITH JÉAN, THE ETHICALLY-PRODUCED, “IT GIRL” AUSSIE LABEL IS COMMITTED TO A SUSTAINABLE FUTURE” (STODDARD, T. 2020)

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With Jean is an emerging online store created by two friends during the summer of 2017. A Gold Coast, vintage-inspired label (Nakedvice, 2020) situated amongst the middle market region of fashion sectors. See appendix B for With Jean’s product range. Operating only as an online store, the brand is climbing in popularity and expanding consumer reach with their contemporary, on-trend designs that have gained momentum in the fashion industry with their unique colourful garments that in cooperating vintage-inspired silhouettes.

Acclaiming a spot in modern fashion amongst their desired consumer base - young, independent and fashion-savvy women, With Jean ensure they flourish in their high quality,

ethical clothing. By delivering pieces as “timeless as your vintage blues” With Jean (2021) has sought to create wardrobe staples for the affluent woman who cares for the environment and adopts a conscious consumer lifestyle. In line with the creators who “support ethical labour” and where “sustainability is a major focus” (With Jean, 2021). With the brand’s centralisation around ethics, the creators moved from Australia to Bali, to achieve this goal to ensure the production of sustainable garments. With their high regard and significance on ethical production, co-founder Evangeline has situated to Bali to oversee the manufacturing and ensure high-quality garments and ethical considerations are main-

tained throughout the design process (Stoddard, T. 2020).

Acclaimed conscious consumers (With Jean, 2021), the co-founders consider their approach to ethically producing, naturally embedded into their practice (Stoddard, T. 2020).

In line with this, amidst the recent Australian bushfires With Jean donated 100% of their profits (totalling $69,671.90) to help the devastation (Forbes.

2020). This is on par with their save the planet initiative, in which a majority of their brand is based. According to Forbes (2020), they have an “appetite and enthusiasm for global responsibility” and are well on their way to changing the community to a more sustainable one.

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BRAND PROFILE

Admired and worn by influential figures like Bella Hadid, Elsa Hosk, Emily Ratajkowski and a display of other fashion-forward, environmentalist celebrities, With Jean have an opportunity for exposure and consumer reach through celebrity endorsement, increasing the brand desirability (Mai, 2006) p.1). Along with gaining further reach, this leaks into the brands desire to change the fashion community to a more sustainable one through celebrity influence, linking to the consumer in terms of desirability (on trend) and sustainability.

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Identifiable colour stories of the brand: FIGURE 42

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Brand Action

Biodegradeable packaging creative

Brand Personality Brand Value

Kind

Social media relevant

creative Sustainable creative middle market Women environmental Fashion owned brand forward Celebrity Sustainable Vintage Sustainable endorsments middle market Sustainable inspired middle market environmental on trend environmental specific brand clothing Sustainable brand aesthetic Sustainable Conscious middle middlemarket market Colourful High quality environmental environmental Ethical production brand brand Global Youthful responsibility price Easy to navigate exlusive online stores Trendy

Essence

Charitable

no mass production

Social

Oversees ethical manufacturing in Bali

FIGURE 44: Posner, H. 2015. Total Product

Concept, This Study (Abram 2021).

BRAND ONION Figure 40, the brand-onion, showcases With Jean’s brand essence and identity. Serving as a visual representation of how the brand relate and form a relationship with their consumers. This allows room to navigate innovations and opportunities to extend the brand.

As shown in figure 40, With Jean’s

brand values are already heavily considerate of the conscious consumer trend. Their brand values circulate sustainability and ethical working environments, along with women empowerment. With an all-female team, With Jean are able to connect to their consumers by opting their own and aspirational personality traits (Watson, C. 2021)

INNOVATION POTENTIAL • Upcycling deadstock • Diversity and inclusivion policies • longevity • biodiversity • Less labels and price tags • (see appendix C):

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Lady Earth

TREND CONCEPT:

The trend concept: ‘Lady Earth’ is inspired by WGSN’s intelligence sector. Specifically, it is the natural element innovations that are gaining momentum in fashion businesses that inspired this concept. WGSN’s intelligence section emphasises the momentum of circularity schemes and their positive effect on sustainability.

By edging out virgin materials and “relying on nature for raw materials (...) to invest in biodynamic practices” (Bailey, 2021) the brand will boast genuine activism and female empowerment.

Subsequently, creating an invaluable brand personality admired by the target consumer.

is the “guiding force of creation” (Merriam Webster, 2021). The utilisation of natural properties to create dyes and transform fabrics into high-quality clothing is suggestive of ‘Lady Earth’ creating beauty out of nature, amplifying both femininity and nature.

The range will be closet staples that can be worn for years, with the innovative nature to be continuously upcycled by the consumer in line with sustainability.

This trend concept is considerate of the detrimental effects of fast fashion and virgin materials on carbon emissions and the scarcity of water. Setting in stone With Jean’s sustainable ethos, ensuring consistency in their brand ‘Lady Earth’ is inspired by organic messaging and personality whilst forms and structures, implicative instilling the ‘propensity to inspire of mother nature. This trend con- action’(Batra & Keller. 2016), ceptualises women’s personifica- within their targeted consumers. tion of nature, where femininity

Consistency and quality are essential to a successful clothing range. (Tsolova, 2016) Possessing a specific brand identity, that reflects the brand‘s aesthetic and brand values are the fundamentals to creating an appropriate s/s22 range for the target consumer. Paralleling With Jean, with the conscious consumer.

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PHASE TWO

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TREND MOOD Mood and ‘colour is tethered to states of mind” (Textile View, 2021). Taking inspiration from the consumer’s mindset and embodying the link between the brand’s message and the consumer’s needs will, in turn, create an emotional connection. Themes of nature, femininity, earthly powers and creation makes up the mood board for this trend concept.

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Considerate of the target con- consumer who values conscious sumer: ‘Lady Earth’ is a cele- shopping and is willing to pay bration of both nature and fem- the difference, where “spending ininity and combines the two tendencies increase” (Goldstein in recognition of the conscious Market Intelligence. 2021) with consumer’s personage. The quality and transparency. high-quality range will allure the Considerate of the target consumer: ‘Lady Earth’ is a celebration of the beauty of both nature and femininity and combines the two in recognition of the conscious consumer‘s personage. The highquality range will allure the consumer who values the environment conscious shopping and is willing to pay the difference, where “spending tendencies increase“ (Goldstein Market Intelligence. 2021) with quality and transparency.

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CORE COLOURS

WGSN (2021) states that the application of colour, in „its purest form“, is becoming increasingly popular because of the conscious consumer trend. Undyed neutrals is a trending colour scheme for the sustainable consumer in S/S22, where colour is derived from natural sources or the yarn/fibre is left in its natural form (native colours like off white/brown). In alignment with the trend concept, nature is the core foundation of the colour scheme. The incorporation of trans-seasonal hues will intensify the ranges sustainability and longevity. These core colours are timeless neutrals inspired by the natural „mineral tones and softer pasters“ (Pantone, 2021). Green and browns are the dominant colours amidst women‘s sectors in 2021, as they resonate with nature and are key in a more „cautious market“ (WGSN, 2021).

The choice of colours was derived from the idea of naturally obtained dye from organic elements, as bio-design is an up and coming innovation for 2022. With consideration of femininity and With Jean‘s defined colour stories, energetic and vibrant colours which are an incoorperation of pinks oranges and greens.

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ACCENT COLOURS

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CORE COLOURS

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Patterns Nature surface inspired

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ACCENT COLOURS

Combining With Jean‘s vintage style with nature, to create retro nature patterns.

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Natural and unprocessed low-impact yarns underpin this direction. Create texture play with fine cottons, slub linen and hemp, and worsted RWS wools. Use FSC or recycled lyocell and viscose blends for soft drape

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Grown from non GMO seeds, where ancestorl methods of farming is practiced to create organic cotton fibres (SustainyourStyle, n.d.).

Due to organic cotton having longer fibre than regular cotton, the material is softer to touch and more durable and thus higher quality. This cotton fits well with the consumer‘s desires for sustainable fabric with ethical sourcing whislt providing luxury.

YARNS AND FABRICS FIGURE 92

Investigating the brands previous product range in order to create continuity and a foundation for the new range, with high quality fabrics and ethical manufacturing.

100% cotton This is apart of their latest range, where the shirts are all natural fibre, a theme to carry through into the S/S22 range

Throughout the range, natural and low-impact yarns will be utilised to create texture (WGSN, 2021), through the use of organic cottons, tencil, linen and silk. Furthermore, there is a innovation oppurtunity for With Jean to use recycled fibres to blend creating soft drapes for the desires silhouettes.

For S/S22, the goal is for all products within the range to be naturally sourced. The use of man-made products, in the previous ranges, will be substituted with natural products (made from plants) in line with the needs of the conscious consumer. For the brand to progress, away from the use of petroleum-based materials like polyester, the reliance on plant-based fibres is integral to the sustainability and quality of this range. Essential to the trend, the materials should be viable and high quality with low environmental impacts.

organic cotton Versatile fibres that can be combines with other fibres to enhance the comfort of fabrics as well as the funcitionality (Tencil, 2021), Key factors for the conscious consumer, as it allows for flexibility without sacrificing quality and softness. Breathable, sustainable and longlasing fabric, with colour vibrancy.

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Tencel A soft light weight fabric, with qualities of luxury. Incredibly durable material, perfect for sustainable needs, with qualities like conductivity that make it the perfect wardribe essential fibre (Boss, H. 2021).

Linen FIGURE 95

50% Rayon, 50% Viscose

Polyester/Elastane Rib

50% Rayon, 50% Viscose

Natural fibre with qualities like durability, soft feel and elegant appearance - well known for its luxury. Silk is a high end fibre, operating in couture fashion (Master Class Staff, 2021). Silk is an aesthetic fibre adding luxury to garments, with elasticity qualities makign garments flexible. Silk is a common fibre for dresses, as it drapes and frames a body well.

Silk

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KEY SILHOUETTES

The vintage-inspired identity of the brand has inspired the creation of vintage and feminine silhouettes. The label will focus on familiar brand product types like figurehugging basics, a core silhouette for the ‘lady earth’ trend concept.

With Flowers Wrap Skirt

50% Tencil, 50% Silk: Botanic Origin, Natural Fibre soft, breathable, durable material, falls to the curves of the body with a liquid like drape.

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With Basics Flare Trousers

Organic Cotton Natural Fibre

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Fitting flare trouser, textured at the touch

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With Basics Linen Button Up

With Floral Basic Dress

Organic Cotton 50% Tencil 50% Natural Fibre

Linen Natural Fibre

Body hugging, smooth to touch sretchy material

Naturally cooling &

With Basics Essential Tee

With Basics Tie Back Crop

Organic Cotton & Tencil Natural Fibre Fitting basic cotton tee, textured at the touch

Tencil Natural Fibre Fitting Tie back, stretchy feel, shapes to your body

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RETAILING POP UP & social media With the launching of the range featuring the trend concept ‘Lady earth’, With Jean will market to their desired consumers through visuals tangible with the idea of femininity, creation and nature.

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With Jean operates solely online, this presents as a brand opportunity to host a weekend-long popup store in a busy city like Newyork or London.

Keyes, (2019) informs the success of pop-ups in their boosting of social media engagement and sales. 66% claiming it raised brand awareness.

In the weeks leading up to the pop-up store, With Jean can host a competition on social media.

The competition will work based on trending the hashtag ‘Lady Earth’, the entry requirement is to repost the brand’s post on their story with the hashtag ‘Lady Earth’. The winner will receive a piece from the new range. This helps create user-generated content on social platforms by portraying the brand’s essence and consideration of sustainability; this offers the brand an opportunity to build desired salience amongst consumers (Batra and Keller, 2016). To reiterate the idea of sustainability and quality, each customer who attend and purchases products at the pop up will receive a reusable tote bag. There is an omni-

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Appendices Appendix A : This Study, ABRAM, K. 2021. Customer Profiling Excerise

Appendix B:: This Study, ABRAM, K. 2021. Brand Positioning Map (informed by Posner, H. 2015).

University of Leeds

Appendix C: This Study, ABRAM, K. 2021. Trend Canvas

Figure List Figure 1: With Jean 2021. Lala Dress [Online].

[Accessed 2021]. Available from: https:// withjean.com/collections/all Figure 2: With Jean 2021. With Jean Logo [Online]. [Accessed 2021]. Available from: https://withjean.com/collections/all Figure 3: With Jean 2021. Lou Sarong [Online].

[Accessed 2021]. Available from: https:// withjean.com/collections/all Figure 4&5: With Jean 2021. Andy Dress [Online]. [Accessed 2021]. Available from: https://withjean.com/collections/all Figure 6: With Jean 2021. With Jean Tee [Online]. [Accessed 2021]. Available from: https://withjean.com/collections/all Figure 7: With Jean 2021. ‘As Seen On’ [Online]. [Accessed 2021]. Available from: https://withjean.com/collections/all Figure 8: Pajot, T. n.d. Vintage Flowers [Online].

[Accessed April 2021]. Available from: https:// www.shutterstock.com/search/hippie+flowers.

Figure 9: HARWOOD, E. 2020. Chunky Rings [Online]. [Accessed April 2021]. Available from: https://www.nylon.com/fashion/chunky-ringsto-add-to-your-jewelry-collection.

Figure 10 : MARCHANT, T. 2018. Campo de’Fiori, Rome [Online]. [Accessed April 2021].

Available from: https://www.harpersbazaar. com/culture/travel-dining/g7225/mostbeautiful-places-in-italy/.

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Figure 13: Kendall 2020. Charcuterie Board Beach Picnic [Online]. [Accessed April 2021].

Available from: https://mystyledlife.com/.

Figure 14: Marie Claire 2021. “Sex and the City”-Inspired Outfits to Shop [Online].

[Accessed April 2021]. Available from: https:// www.marieclaire.com/fashion/a35381968/sexand-the-city-outfits/.

Figure 15:With Jean 2021. ‘As Seen On’ [Online]. [Accessed 2021]. Available from: https://withjean.com/collections/all

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Figure 16: SILVA, J. 2019. 30+ Top Aesthetic Home Design Ideas [Online]. [Accessed 2021].

Available from: https://safehouz.com/30-topaesthetic-home-design-ideas/10/.

Figure 17: Urban Outfitters 2020. Productivity Planner [Online]. [Accessed April 2021].

Available from: https://www.urbanoutfitters. com/shop/productivity-planner.

Figure 18: Urban Outfitters 2021. Cozy Slub Tassel Body Pillow [Online]. [Accessed April 2021]. Available from: https://www. urbanoutfitters.com/decorative-pillows-throwblankets.

Figure 19: With Jean 2021. With Jean Tee [Online]. [Accessed 2021]. Available from: https://withjean.com/collections/all Figure 20: With Jean 2021. With Jean Tee [Online]. [Accessed 2021]. Available from: https://withjean.com/collections/all Figure 21: Women’s March Twitter 2019.

Women’s March [Online]. [Accessed April 2021]. Available from: https://twitter.com/ womensmarch/status/1106552361487683584.

Figure 22: NaiyaPrints n.d. Girl boss [Online].

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Figure 34: With Jean 2021. Top [Online].

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Figure 36: With Jean 2021. Gigi Dress [Online].

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Figure 41: With Jean 2021. Andy Dress [Online].

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Figure 45: With Jean 2021. Daisy Skirt [Online].

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Figure 51: RICH, B. 2020. The Health Benefits of Oranges Go Well Beyond Vitamin C [Online].

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Figure 54: Instagram.com/novomonde 2019.

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Figure 72: DYAS, B. 2015. Things Your Plant’s Leaves Are Trying to Tell You [Online].

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Figure 87: With Jean 2021. Gigi Dress [Online].

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Figure 97: WGSN 2020b. Woven Top [Online]. [Accessed 2021]. Available from: h t t p s : / / w w w. w g s n . c o m / l i b r a r y / r e s u l t s / c368a4dad0a57b8e571aa0d1aa62edd4.

Figure 98: WGSN 2020b. Minimilast Tshirt [Online]. [Accessed 2021]. Available from: h t t p s : / / w w w. w g s n . c o m / l i b r a r y / r e s u l t s / c368a4dad0a57b8e571aa0d1aa62edd4.

Figure 99: WGSN 2020b. Sans Titre [Online]. [Accessed 2021]. Available from: h t t p s : / / w w w. w g s n . c o m / l i b r a r y / r e s u l t s / c368a4dad0a57b8e571aa0d1aa62edd4.

Figure 100: WGSN 2020b. Sans Titre 2 [Online]. [Accessed 2021]. Available from: h t t p s : / / w w w. w g s n . c o m / l i b r a r y / r e s u l t s / c368a4dad0a57b8e571aa0d1aa62edd4.

Figure 101: WGSN 2020b. Wrap Skirt [Online]. [Accessed 2021]. Available from: h t t p s : / / w w w. w g s n . c o m / l i b r a r y / r e s u l t s / c368a4dad0a57b8e571aa0d1aa62edd4.

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Figure 108: With Jean 2021. Lala Dress [Online]. [Accessed 2021]. Available from: https://withjean.com/collections/all Figure 109: With Jean 2021. With Jean Logo [Online]. [Accessed 2021]. Available from: https://withjean.com/collections/all

Figure 110: Muji 2021. Indian Cotton Tote Bag [Online]. [Accessed 2021]. Available from: https://www.muji.ae/en/buy-indian-cottoncanvas-wide-tote-bag.html.

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