KANSAS! Magazine | Fall 2017

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VOL 73

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ISSUE 3

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KANSASMAG.COM

Travel the Chisholm 150 years of the historic trail

contents features 40 |

The Chisholm Legacy

52 |

Song Trails

Rex Buchanan follows the old trail “that still wants to head north”

From Texas to Kansas, a music scholar traces the heritage of cowboy songs

departments 04 |

In This Issue

06 |

From the Editor

09 |

This Season

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

FALL 2017

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10 | Culture 12 | Sampler 15 | Outside 17 | Shop 18 | Eat 20 | Behind the Lens 22 | Reasons We Love Kansas 25 | Fall 2017 Events

26 |

Wide Open Spaces

26 | FAIR ENOUGH A Kansas photographer documents small-town fairs across the state

30 | A WEEKEND IN IKE’S TOWN The old trail town provides a perfect three-day family getaway

34 | TASTE OF KANSAS: ON THE HUNT FOR KANSAS STEAKS A few steakhouses that will take you off the beaten path

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KANSAS! Gallery: Fall

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#KansasMag

South of Abilene, following the route of the historic Chisholm Trail | Justin Lister

KANSAS! MAGAZINE FALL 2017

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FA L L 2 0 1 7

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VOL 73

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ISSUE 3

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KANSASMAG.COM

Travel theChisholm 150 years of the historic trail

ON THE COVER To commemorate the 150th anniversary of the Chisholm Trail, artist Torren Thomas illustrates what an average cattle driving group might look like during the 1800s.

IN THIS

issue

The story on photographer Brian 26 Goodman’s journey across Kansas county fairs has us excited about this year’s upcoming Kansas State Fair in Hutchinson. We’ll be there with a booth— Look for us! And afterward, share your photos online with #MyFairKS.

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

COUNTY FAIRS

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04

Longtime KANSAS! contributor Patsy Terrell passed away June 7, 2017.

She was a proud Kansan and particularly loved being a part of the KANSAS! magazine family.This issue features her final article, a story about Hatman Jack’s in Wichita—she said... it was a joy to write. Patsy was a fount of story ideas and a seasoned storyteller. Her passion and enthusiasm are dearly missed.

RECREATING HISTORY As writer Rex Buchanan notes in his essay about the Chisholm Trail, the cowboys who drove the cattle were diverse, comprising European Americans, Mexican Americans, African Americans and others. Some of them were not even cowboys, but cowgirls. Few images of that varied group of drivers were recorded, so we asked artist Torren Thomas to recreate a scene of what could have been an ordinary group of drivers, using historical photos to reference clothing and models to pose as the drivers. Don’t they look ready for the trail?

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PHOTOGRAPHS (CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT) BRIAN GOODMAN (2), COURTESY PATSY TERRELL, ILLUSTRATION BY TORREN THOMAS

REMEMBERING PATSY

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FALL 2017

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FROM THE

editor

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

THE TRAIL THAT JESSE BUILT It was 1867, a time when Kansas was in her youth and railroads and cattle trails were cutting their paths across Kansas. It was also the beginning of one of the most famous cattle drives, the Chisholm Trail. This period in our history brought forth booming cattle towns, spurred legends of the Old West and solidified Kansas as a destination for migrating pioneers.

Now in 2017, Kansas, along with Oklahoma and Texas, celebrates the 150th anniversary of the trail. In this issue, KANSAS! writer Rex Buchanan takes us back along the trail from “Border Queen” Caldwell, through Wichita, and up to Abilene. We’ve also provided a four-day itinerary for those wanting to retrace the historic drive.

Many Kansas communities will honor the Chisholm Trail with an array of events over the next year. Wichita will be hosting a Chisholm Trail Film series in August, and Abilene will celebrate Chisholm Trail Days in October—just to name a few. Visit chisholmtrail.org and ct-150.com for more information about the communities and events.

Thank you to all who voted for our readers’ choice “favorite local eats”! The votes are tallied, and we will feature the final top 20 in the winter issue, out this November.

Happy Trails!

ANDREA ETZEL

EDITOR, KANSAS! MAGAZINE

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PHOTOGRAPH Courtesy Andrea Etzel

FALL 2017

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THIS

season

FALL2017

12 Sampler

12

15 Outside 17 Shop 18 Eat 20 Behind the Lens 22 Reasons We Love Kansas 25 Fall 2017 Events

30

26

WIDE OPEN SPACES 26 Fair Enough 30 A Weekend in Ike’s Town 34 Taste of Kansas:

On the Hunt for Kansas Steaks

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

10 Culture

09 FALL 2017

PHOTOGRAPHS (CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT) Brian Goodman, Shutterstock, Brian Goodman, Lisa Eastman

Welcome to KANSAS! magazine’s “This Season.” Here we explore what’s new and buzzing throughout the state—from restaurants and shopping to cultural happenings and attractions.

this season

culture.

By Cecilia Harris

Cowtown Celebration

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

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JOIN ‘EM ELLSWORTH COWTOWN DAYS FESTIVAL Aug. 17–20, Ellsworth Watch the historical reenactment of the local sheriff being killed in a shootout during Ellsworth Cowtown Days, this year celebrating the former cattle town’s sesquicentennial. The annual event includes a longhorn cattle drive, a historical timeline parade, Western music, a rodeo, cowboy church and period games.

(405) 550-0970 | ellsworthcowtowndays.com TALKING TOMBSTONES Groups of 10 by appointment only, Caldwell Meet history face-to-face in the City Cemetery as deceased historical figures tell their stories. A cowboy holding a rifle stands near his grave as he shares the details of the cow camp shootout in which he was killed, and the wife of the town’s first marshal discusses his demise near his headstone.

(620) 845-2145 | caldwellkansas.com

Where in

KANSAS?

Abilene Ellsworth Caldwell

PHOTOGRAPH Shutterstock

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owboys gently slap ropes against their chaps while driving longhorns through town to a wooden chute, through which the cattle slowly maneuver their five-footlong horns as they climb into the rail car. Then the steam engine blows its whistle and begins to pull the loaded train east and out of town.

These are the sounds and sights of an important era in Kansas history to be commemorated during Trails, Rails and Tails, a festival celebrating the Chisholm Trail’s 150th anniversary, Sept.

2–3 in Abilene. During the event, visitors can take advantage of a reenactment of the first shipment of Texas longhorns leaving the Abilene stockyards in 1867.

Other Trails, Rails and Tails activities include music legends Red Steagall, Michael Martin Murphey, and Sons of the Pioneers; Pawnee Bill’s Wild West Show; blacksmiths, silversmiths and other historic artisans; cowboy poets and storytellers; a chuckwagon breakfast; Buffalo Soldiers, Native Americans, and the U.S. Calvary; gunfighters and can-can girls in Old Abilene Town; historical speakers; rides on the steam engine-pulled train; a draft-horse demonstration; and a Buckaroo Camp for kids. (785) 263-2681 | chisholmtrt.com

this season

sampler.

By Meagan Young

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Excursion Trains Across Kansas

Where in

KANSAS?

Topeka Atchison Baldwin Abilene Wichita

GET GOING RAILFEST WICHITA Saturday, September 16 Folks young and old are invited to the second annual Railfest hosted by the Great Plains Transportation Museum and Union Station. Tickets are $10 for 13 and older, while kids under 13 are free. All proceeds go toward educating and promoting the history of the Great Plains railroad systems across Kansas. Events include a variety of live music, local art, shopping and several dining options. And of course, there’ll be activities and train rides available for everyone.

PHOTOGRAPH Shutterstock

Full Steam Ahead:

he cautioning, breathy whistle of steam engines has long been replaced with the quick bite of car horns. The rhythmic, steel-on-steel sound of train cars muscling each other along is something powerful, irreplaceable, perhaps forgotten.

The thought of taking a train seems inefficient now, but Kansas offers several opportunities to ride a train for reasons other than just transportation.

The Abilene & Smoky Valley Railroad lets you charter your own train. Good for outings such as wedding parties, reunions, historical associations and birthdays, these charter trains even allow guests to arrange catering for their trip. If you’re closer to Topeka, be sure to check in at the Great Overland Museum & Education Center. Bring the kids to Choo Choo Junction for lots of educational fun to celebrate Topeka’s railroad history.

Atchison, the birthplace of Amelia Earhart, has deep transportation roots, both in aviation and locomotives. Tour the Atchison Railroad Museum and explore more than 20 restored train cars. If you’re looking for a ride and a good meal, try Midland Railway & Kansas Belle Dinner Train in Baldwin City for an evening away from the city bustle.

WINFIELD ART IN THE PARK October 7, 2017 Island Park, Winfield, KS

• Outdoor art festival • Entertainment • Wine Tasting • Children’s art activities • Food vendors • Juried Show 12 x 12 booth for $40 Sponsored in part by Winfield Convention & Tourism

(620) 221-2161 | www.winfieldarts.org

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ince 2001, target archery — a fun and challenging recreational activity— has expanded throughout the state thanks in part to the National Archery in the Schools Program. In Kansas, more than 150 schools take part in the program, which involves more than 3,500 students eagerly participating. Archery equipment suppliers offer a standard package of bows, arrows and safety equipment to districts at a discount.

While originally meant as an outlet for all pupils to get involved in a sport that did not require superior athletic abilities, the program has achieved even greater results.

Participating students have improved attendance, self-esteem, confidence, focus and motivation. Most importantly, kids learn people skills and accept diversity by directly interacting in social groups, rather than via electronic devices.

Trained instructors supervise all events, and NASP events have proven to be as safe as playing table tennis. A national tournament is held in May with almost 15,000 archers competing, and there is even a NASP World Championship.

this season

outside.

Archery for All Ages

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

By Dave Zumbaugh

PHOTOGRAPH Shutterstock

The Kansas State Archery Association is also fostering the sport in all of its forms, from bare bows and traditional wooden gear to modern and hunting bows. This group sponsors competitive tournaments for all Kansas archery clubs to perpetuate the sport and boost the fellowship of likeminded people. Both indoor and outdoor events are held to enhance the skill levels of archers.

FALL 2017

15

Where in

KANSAS?

Kansas-wide program

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Amenities include: 9 Hole Disc Golf Course King-Size Beds/Private Baths Massage Therapy Available Supper and Breakfast Included Wireless Internet Indoor Heated Pool/Hot tub Walking Paths/Fishing Pond Game Room/Fitness Room Near Glacial Hills Wine Trail Ask about Area Attractions

weBSite: www.theBaRnBB.coM 785-945-3225 • email: thebarn@giantcomm.net

14910 Blue Mound Road, Valley Falls, KS 66088 www.thebarnbb.com

this season

By Patsy Terrell

shop.

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HATMAN JACK’S WICHITA HAT WORKS 607 W Douglas Ave., Wichita, KS 67213 (316) 264-4881 | hatmanjacks.com

of the Hat

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PHOTOGRAPH Shutterstock

FALL 2017

Monday-Friday: 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. except Thursday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Saturday: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Closed on Sunday

A Tip KANSAS! MAGAZINE

ack Kellogg’s interest in fashion and history led him into the hat business at age 17.“The hat was the accessory that stood out the most,” he says.“It made the biggest statement about who a person was.”

Hatman Jack’s is a fixture in Delano, which was a separate town right along the Chisholm Trail where cowboys could blow off steam.“The streets of Wichita were paved by the sins of Delano,” Kellogg says.“The hat went hand in hand with history.”

And so does his business.“On any given day in this store we are likely to reach for a tool that could have been manufactured in 1890,” he says.

Kellogg’s work has been featured in movies and TV shows, but he loves to help anyone find the perfect hat for their face, shape and personality. “If somebody is shy and does not want to engage with others, I wouldn’t recommend a hat,” he says.“People who wear hats have more personality as a general rule than those who do not. It takes a little courage.”

Where in

KANSAS?

Wichita

this season

eat.

By Lou Ann Thomas

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OTHER CORN MAZES TO CHECK OUT: • Louisburg Cider Mill in Louisburg has a 10-acre corn maze open Sept. 15 to Oct. 31. Also on site are a pumpkin patch, children’s play area and a spider web climber. The Country Store features freshly pressed apple cider, apple butter, and the Mill’s own brand of craft sodas. louisburgcidermill.com • The Kansas Maze on the Gaeddert farm, near Buhler, was the first corn maze in Kansas and features a 4.5-acre maze, jumping pillow, play area, hayrack rides and a grill master who cooks hamburgers and hot dogs. Chili, nachos, Frito pie and apples with caramel are also on the menu. kansasmaze.com

FOOD HAPPENINGS NORTH END URBAN ARTS FESTIVAL 204 E. 21st St N, Wichita The North End Urban Arts Festival, in Wichita, promotes and supports area emerging artists. On September 30, from 3–9 p.m., attendees can explore the work of local artists, crafters, and musicians, as well as unique cuisine. The Street Food Gallery includes several food trucks serving items from LoLo’s Crepes to homemade Mexican food. The Festival Beer Garden, featuring local brewers, is also on site. facebook.com/northendurbanartsfest

Where in

KANSAS?

Topeka Grantville Louisburg Wichita Buhler

REES FRUIT FARM 2476 Hwy K4, Topeka During October, Rees Fruit Farm hosts fun-filled weekends complete with hayrack rides, clowns, a DJ and apples. In fact, October is the only time you can sink your teeth into the farm’s exclusive Apple Smoked Beef Brisket sandwiches, which pairs nicely with an apple cider donut or slice of apple crisp and a dip of Apple of My Eye ice cream. There are also daily activities for children and a Halloween party on October 29 at 6 p.m.

Concessions are cash only and available through October on Saturdays from 11 a.m.–8:30 p.m. and Sundays 11 a.m.–4:30 p.m.

PHOTOGRAPH Shutterstock

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

Corn Mazes & Fall Grazes

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his time of year the corn has grown so high you could get lost in it.

And some Kansas farms are welcoming you to do just that with unique corn mazes.

Gary’s Berries, near Grantville, hosts a Fall Festival that features an eight-acre corn maze, 10-acre pumpkin patch, wagon rides, games for the entire family and lots of delicious treats.

Food-stands serve everything from snack items to a full meal. For those who wish to take some fresh homemade treats on the road with them, new this year is the Exit Pavilion, stocked with pumpkin donuts, kettle corn, pumpkin bars and fudge to go.

“All are made fresh every day,” owner Gary Starr says.

Gary’s Berries Fall Festival opens Sept. 22 and runs weekends through October. Every Friday night features a professional-grade fireworks display and $1 hot dogs. garysberries.com

this season

ustin Lister is an internationally published portrait photographer based in Kansas. He shoots weddings as well as commercial and editorial projects. Some of Lister’s work can be found on page 40 as part of the Chisholm Trail feature.

What is the hardest thing to photograph badly? To photograph well?

Kansas sunsets or sunrises are pretty amazing and difficult to photograph badly.Weddings are very challenging to photograph well because of time and location restraints, and of course the stress.

Where are you from? Where do you live now? How many years have you been in Kansas?

I spent the first half of my life in Monterey, California, but I have lived in Kansas for 15 years.

If you had to describe your photography in terms of a color wheel, where would you fall on it?

I would say the colors of dusk or dawn— blue, purple, dark green, grey.

What was the moment you wanted to become a photographer? How old were you at the time?

I always loved photography as a hobby, but after a major health crisis where I had the get a kidney transplant due to an undiagnosed genetic disorder, I decided life was too short to not pursue your dreams. That’s when I got serious and started my business.

PHOTOGRAPHS Justin Lister

What was your first camera? What did you like about it?

Canon Rebel. I liked the autofocus and the cheap price.

If you had to describe your photographic style in terms of a family tree, who is your “mother,” your “father,” and your “brother” or “sister.”

Mother Annie Leibovitz (Famous celebrity and fashion photog) Father Erik Almas (Commercial photographer in San Francisco) Brother Tom Hoops (Inspiring British photog and friend/teacher)

Tell us about the shot that got away.

On a cliff in Ireland, some castle ruins with dramatic clouds as the backdrop. Sometimes you just have to leave the camera behind and experience a place like this rather than photograph it.This memory is reserved for just my wife and me.

What is your favorite Kansas landmark to photograph?

I would say any wheat field in central Kansas at sunrise and sunset is truly inspiring and the closest thing to the feeling I get near the ocean where I grew up in California.

Rank these Kansas icons in terms of your choice of photography subject: Open skies (Kansas is unique in its wide open, unobstructed view of the sky) Fields of sunflowers (iconic and beautiful) Prairie flowers (I don’t know their names but they are gorgeous) Cottonwood trees (lone tree on a prairie is a great shot) Buffalo herds (McPherson County has its fair share of buffalo to see) The Kansas River (Pretty nice place especially by the governor’s mansion grounds)

Tell us about your best chance photo taken in Kansas. Where was it? How did it come about?

Probably an engagement session I photographed in 2015. There were thick, dark clouds, which don’t make for particularly romantic photos. Then the last 10 minutes of day, the sun was below the dark clouds, creating the most amazing light and mood. Orange backlit fields with an almost black sky and some stray raindrops made for a memorable session.

Draw a map of Kansas and pinpoint on it three locations that have significance for you or your career. What are they?

Topeka Interned for Nathan Ham Photography for a short period where he mentored me and encouraged my growth.

McPherson I met my wife when she was working as a pharmacist at Dillon’s, and she eventually donated me my new kidney! Amazing woman, needless to say.

Men’s Bible study at Countryside Covenant Church changed my life, changed my perspective and gave to me a sense of community I haven’t felt before.

Wichita I photograph many weddings every year and 90 percent are in the greater Wichita area. My clients and fellow wedding photographers are all an amazing group and have helped my career immensely.

Who would you name as an “Honorary Kansan” for their photography? Why? Scott Stebner.He currently lives in Kansas but has a similar path as me,growing up in California.His [photo] series and book on the modern day farmer and rancher are inspiring and relevant to our great state of Kansas.

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

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A conversation with KANSAS! photographers about their lives in photography

21 FALL 2017

Justin Lister

behind the lens.

this season

reasons.

By Cecilia Harris

REASONS we love Kansas

A storied Western-culture past and modern-day ranch life provide wide-ranging reasons for adventure

COWBOY GEAR Wamego, Kansas City, Topeka, Dodge City and Abilene Whether on the ranch or in the city, every cowboy and cowgirl needs the right gear, from saddles and tack to dusters and slickers, as well as pointed-toe boots and colorful Western shirts. Shop Vanderbilt’s in Wamego, Nigro’s Western Store in Kansas City, R Bar B in Topeka, and Long’s Western Wear in Dodge City.

(785) 456-9100 | vanderbilts.com (913) 262-7500 | nigroswesternstore.com (785) 286-3006 | rbarb.com (620) 227-2805 | facebook.com/pg/longsinc

RANCH RODEOS Medicine Lodge, Coffeyville, Meade and Council Grove Working ranch cowboys compete as a team in events mirroring their daily chores, such as branding calves, doctoring cattle, gathering strays, riding broncs, and penning steers (there’s even a wild cow milking contest) at the Kansas Championship Ranch Rodeo on September 22–23 in Medicine Lodge. Other Working Ranch Cowboys Association sanctioned rodeos in the state include the Coffeyville Interstate Fair and Ranch Rodeo on September 30 in Coffeyville, and the Meade County Fair Ranch Rodeo in Meade and the Santa Fe Trail Ranch Rodeo in Council Grove, both in July.

(620) 886-5293 | peacetreaty.org/events/rodeo (620) 251-2550 | fairandrodeo.com/attractions/ranch-rodeo (620) 629-7090 | meadecountyfairranchrodeo.com wrca.org/sanctioned-rodeo-schedule

A RANCH ADVENTURE Medicine Lodge, Manhattan and Cedar Point

The Dalton Gang Hideout in Meade relates the story of brothers Bob, Emmett and Grat Dalton, who robbed banks and trains from 1890–1892.Their sister, Eva Whipple, offered sanctuary at her Meade home, conveniently connected to a nearby barn by an underground tunnel.The notorious gang met its demise attempting to rob two banks at once in Coffeyville, where one of the bank buildings still stands and is open for tours. Some of the gang’s pistols and revolvers are displayed at the Dalton Defenders Museum, and a stone marks gang members’ graves in the Elmwood Cemetery.

(620) 873-2731 oldmeadecounty.com/hideout

Authentic working ranches provide opportunities to ride horses and wagons, drive cattle, and get an understanding of the cowboy culture. At the Gyp Hills Guest Ranch near Medicine Lodge, guests work cattle and assist with a cattle drive while viewing red buttes and mesas.

Lazy T Ranch Adventures near Manhattan offers hayrack rides through the scenic Flint Hills, original cowboy poetry and the opportunity to throw a lariat.

The Flying W Ranch near Cedar Point allows visitors to take moonlight wagon rides and assist with spring prairie burns.

(620) 886-3303 gyphillsguestranch.com

(620) 251-5944 daltondefendersmuseum.com

(785) 537-9727 lazytranchadventures.com

(800) 626-3357 coffeyvillechamber.org

(620) 340-2802 flinthillsflyingw.com

REASONS

we love Kansas

WILD AND WICKED Ellsworth Ellsworth celebrates its sesquicentennial this year and its heritage as“the wickedest cattle town in Kansas.”Ellsworth got that name a century ago when it was the end branch of the Chisholm Trail—and though there is little wicked left in the town,there is still adventure.A historical plaza walking tour offers 17 authentic frontier silhouettes and interpretive signs honoring Ellsworth’s original cattle town business district alongside the Kansas Pacific Railroad.The Hodgden House Museum Complex features exhibits on life during the cattle-drive era amidst 1880s structures.The C & R Old West Trading Post provides a wide selection of Western boots,hats and jewelry in a historic building.

(785) 472-4071 goellsworth.com

QUEEN OF THE COWTOWNS Dodge City Located on the Great Western Cattle Trail, Dodge City earned the name “Queen of the Cowtowns” long before television and movies brought the city worldwide fame. Costumed interpreters at the Boot Hill Museum bring the Old West to life through gunfights in the street and the Long Branch Variety Show. Bronze statues on the Dodge City Trail of Fame walking tour honor Wyatt Earp, Doc Holliday and others, while historical figures are memorialized inside The Gunfighters Wax Museum.As a reminder of the city’s living ranch heritage, longhorn cattle graze on prairie grass at Longhorn Park.

(800) 653-9378 visitdodgecity.org

Send your “Reasons We Love Kansas” to ksreasons@sunflowerpub.com or to Reasons, KANSAS!, 1020 S. Kansas Ave., Suite 200, Topeka, KS 66612.

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

DALTON GANG TERRITORY Meade and Coffeyville

reasons.

23 FALL 2017

PHOTOGRAPHS (CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT) Shutterstock, Kansas Championship Ranch Rodeo, KDWPT, Shutterstock, Ellsworth County Historical Society, Dodge City CVB

this season

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Zip KC Kansas City Renaissance Festival Moon Marble Company National Agricultural Center & Hall of Fame Providence Medical Center Amphitheater Sunflower Hills Golf Course Wyandotte County Historical Museum Downtown Specialty Retail Shops

this season SPIRIT OF THE CHISHOLM TRAIL FESTIVAL / September 1-3 / Abilene Longhorn cattle drive, re-enactment of first cattle train shipment, cowboy music and more chisholmtrt.com KANSAS STATE FAIR September 7-18 / Hutchinson The state’s annual gathering for 4-H champion show rounds, carnival rides, concerts and more kansasstatefair.com OKLAHOMA-KANSAS LONGHORN CATTLE DRIVE September 12-23 / Multiple locations Celebrating Chisholm Trail with cattle drives and cow camp stops at Caldwell, Wellington, Mayfield, Millerton, Clearwater and Wichita chisholmtrail150.org/event/texaslonghorn-cattle-drive

CHISHOLM TRAIL CELEBRATION October 6-8 / Delano Fall Fair, Delano Western parade,“Running of the Doves,” rope-making demonstrations, and more delanofallfair.com RUSH THE RAILS October 7 / Flint Hills Nature Trail A cycling and running event to celebrate the opening of the Flint Hills Nature Trail rushtherails.com SVENSK HYLLNINGSFEST October 13-14 / Lindsborg Held every other year, this festival celebrates the region’s strong Swedish heritage with dances, concerts and food svenskhyllningsfest.org

TOUR DE SALT BIKE RIDE October 14 / Strataca salt mine museum, Hutchinson A bike ride through the underground salt mine underkansas.org CHISHOLM TRAIL FALL FESTIVAL October 19-21 / Wellington Trail-related celebrations wellingtonkschamber.com PRAIRIE HARVEST FESTIVAL October 21 / Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve, Strong City Old-fashioned harvest festival with music, barn dances, storytelling and educational talks at this national site nps.gov/tapr TOMBSTONE TALKS October 28 / Abilene Re-enactors portraying the Chisholm Trail and cowtown era share stories of their lives and deaths abilenevisitors.com

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

WALNUT VALLEY FESTIVAL September 13-17 / Winfield Internationally known bluegrass music concert and campout with performers such as John McEuen and Socks in the Frying Pan wvfest.com

HISTORY OF JESSE CHISHOLM October-December / Mid-America All-Indian Center, Wichita Items and information from the collection of Jesse Chisholm’s family theindiancenter.org

events.

FALL 2017

25

PHOTOGRAPH Shutterstock

EVENTS fall 2017

FIND MORE EVENTS AT TRAVELKS.COM

Because all events are subject to change, please confirm with organizers before finalizing plans.

wide open spaces

Fair Enough KANSAS! MAGAZINE

A Kansas photographer documents small-town fairs across the state

FALL 2017

26

By Nathan Pettengill Photography courtesy Brian Goodman

Brian Goodman’s Tips For Photographing (and Enjoying) a County Fair Drink Water: It’s Kansas, and fair season can still be hot.

Eat the Food: You can’t watch your weight—just dive in and eat some of that fried stuff.

Pick Your Time: The action happens at sunset. The majority of people arrive an hour before sunset, and that is when the fairs will get packed.

Take it Inside: Don’t overlook the events happening inside the 4-H buildings. There isn’t a whole lot of visual action, but there are fascinating exhibits.

Double-Up: Keep a wide lens and a close-up lens ready. You’ll also want a tripod or monopod.

Have Patience: Some of your best color images will come when the rides are running with their night lights on. You might have to wait several minutes or for hours in order to get several rides running at the same time within your frame.

carnival rides at the Wallace County Fair in Sharon Springs, the beer garden at the Cherokee County fair in Columbus or the huge monster truck rally at the Barton County Fair in Great Bend.

Goodman would arrive at the fairs before the main weekend events, catching the early 4-H showings and spending a lot of time walking around the fairgrounds before the crowds poured in. Then, eventually, he would be noticed.

“I tried to be that fly on the wall, but I stood out like a sore thumb because I had two giant cameras on my shoulders. People just came right up to me and asked what I was doing there. And as soon as I told them what I was doing, they wanted to introduce me to everyone in town and stay and eat dinner with their family,” says Goodman. “I was forced to meet people, and that was a really nice side effect of the project.”

Though the cameras might have made him stand out, Goodman wasn’t a stranger to small-town festivals. He grew up in the rural college community of Warrensburg, Missouri, home to the “Old Drum Days” celebration.

Nonetheless, there were still times, such as during the parade at Blue Rapids, when Goodman was struck by how perfectly the fairs and parades represented ideal rural Americana.

“Blue Rapids has a really cool town square and a parade that comes up this main street and goes around the courthouse on the town square. The courthouse lawn is just

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ny town can throw a fair—but no two towns will throw the same fair.

That’s a truth that photographer Brian Goodman discovered during a twosummer, 24-event journey across Kansas that he then documented in his project “A Kansas Fair Affair.”

Goodman’s photo journey began in 2011 as a simple outing to the Douglas County Fair in Lawrence. He was standing on the fairgrounds with his wife just as the carnival game section lights had lit up all around him, and he happened to notice a young girl approaching a nearby ball-toss game table.

“She had this stuffed animal and she was looking at the game, wanting to play it but calculating if she could win the game, illuminated by the lights coming out of this game stand,” Goodman says.

So he did what any photographer would do—he trained his camera on the subject and took the shot. A few seconds later, he realized he had something extraordinary. (See page 8.)

“You couldn’t set that up. If you tried to set that up, it would look fake,” says Goodman. “I don’t get excited a lot, because I take a lot of images as a photographer, but I turned to my wife and said: ‘Look at this photo that I just got!

I think this is the start of a project.’”

And it was.

But the project wasn’t an attempt to recreate that first photo at different Kansas locations. Rather, the project sought to gather great photographs that reflected something unique to each location, such as the vintage

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Go to Rodeos: These are visually exciting, and watching little kids at the mutton-busting is incredible.

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jam-packed with people, and I would sit back there and sometimes just forget to shoot because I was in awe, thinking, ‘This is a small-town Kansas scene that you couldn’t even recreate if you wanted to for a blockbuster movie.’”

Another memorable moment was during a parade in Abilene that featured military vehicles, people in Dwight D. Eisenhower costumes and crowds of people lining the street. To photograph it, Goodman placed himself in the middle of the street, slightly ahead of the flag guard at the start of the parade. Turning back to look at the parade coming down the street, he noticed something remarkable along the sidewalks: “All of the sudden everyone started clapping, and like a wave all along the road, all the men were taking their hats off and everyone was clapping for the soldiers coming down the road. I don’t know if it can get more patriotic than that. You don’t see that every day. The whole town reacted the same way—every single person.”

During the project, Goodman also developed a great respect for the 4-H programs that still thrive throughout the state and are showcased at the fairs. He describes these programs as “small kids showing huge animals.”

Brian Goodman’s Five Favorite Kansas Fairs Wallace County Fair in Sharon Springs—The town has some 500 people, but it seems like they bring in 15,000 people for this fair.

Cherokee County Fair in Columbus—This is a big carnival with the beer garden that I hung out in a little bit, and it’s about as far down in the state’s southeast corner as you can get.

Marshall County Fair in Blue Rapids—This is the one with that magical parade around the town square.

Barton County Fair in Great Bend— Probably the biggest one I went to.

The monster truck rally was huge.

Sheridan County Fair in Hoxie— This was literally where I saw my first rodeo. Loved the carnival rides there, too.

“These kids were handling these gigantic cows; you’ve got a 10-year-old girl moving around this huge animal like she’s been doing it her whole life.

And these kids were serious about it,” Goodman says.

As a photographer, Goodman found himself studying the understated drama in these events. “I focused on their faces.

You could see this grit and realness in the moments that they showed their sheep and tried to hold the animal in place. The kid is looking at the judge and looking back at his animal and it is all very serious.”

These type of discoveries caused Goodman to extend his project from one to two summers. At the end of two years, he had hundreds of 4-H images and some 20,000 photographs in all.

At that point, Goodman realized he had finished one of his initial goals of seeing the state beyond the Interstate-70 corridor.

But as a photographer, he isn’t quite ready to pack up the project.

“I just like the sights, sounds and smells of the carnival, and photographically I couldn’t think of anything better to shoot. I say I’m done shooting, but I may go out some more.”

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wide open spaces

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Ike’s Town A Weekend in

The old trail town provides a perfect three-day family getaway

By Meta Newell West Photography by Justin Lister and Lisa Eastman

Be sure to pay respects to Benjamin Franklin outside the Abilene Public Library.

Amanda’s Bakery & Bistro offers homemade sandwiches for lunch as well as pastries, bread and coffee for breakfast.

FRIDAY: HISTORIC DOWNTOWN ABILENE 12:30 P.M. Choose from homemade sandwiches and wraps or try a bierock at Amanda’s Bakery & Bistro. Be sure to save room for an orangecranberry scone, cinnamon crispy, freshly baked cookie or a slice of grilled coconut walnut bread.

1:30 P.M. Step back in time as you walk over to the Jeffcoat Photography Studio Museum. Vintage cases, cameras, rolls of film and photo props fill the studio operated by the Jeffcoat family from 1921 to 2007 and provide a unique look back through the ages.

2:30 P.M. Shop downtown Abilene where antique shops, some housing dozens of vendors, provide a haven of treasures from the past. Literature lovers will revel in the eclectic collection of new and used books at Rivendell Bookstore. Assemble your own scented candle,

Abilene is also a modern, thriving Great Plains town with healthy local-owned businesses, cultural attractions and natural sites for visitors to enjoy.

create a custom blend of potpourri and bath fizz or watch the staff pour custom candles at Cypress Bridge. Grab some nails from the bins at RHV Hardware and weigh them on an oldfashioned nail scale just as it was done in the early 1900s. Staking a claim to be the oldest operating hardware store between Kansas City and Denver, RHV offers old-fashioned service and shelves stocked with supplies for both professional and DIY projects. Quilters and fiber artists will delight at two neighboring stores: Material Girl Quilt Shop, full of fabric bolts and quilting patterns, and The Shivering Sheep, stocked with top-notch knitting, crocheting and spinning supplies plus handknitted items (they also offer free lessons). Need a shopping break? Order an old-fashioned Green River drink or Cherry Coke at Auburn Pharmacy’s seven-stool soda fountain. You can also walk over to the Convention & Visitors Bureau and watch a 45-minute video about the life of C.L. Brown, whose multi-million-dollar electrical and telephone empire had an enormous impact on Abilene. You might also want to pick up a Brown Memorial Foundation booklet or a brochure that identifies the Heritage Homes of Abilene.

5 P.M. Stop at the Abilene Public Library and take a selfie with Benjamin Franklin, just one of two bronze sculptures that greet visitors. Inside, sit a spell in one of their cozy seating areas or roam through the three floors of books, magazines and meeting spaces. A must-see is the breathtaking dome on the second floor, the one that greeted Carnegie Library patrons back in the early 1900s.

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bilene is a reflection of its ever changing past, from a “rough-and-tumble” cowtown to a genteel, Victorian-era “city of the plains” filled with thriving businesses and stately homes and the childhood home of President Dwight D. Eisenhower.

But Abilene is also a modern, thriving Great Plains town with healthy local-owned businesses, cultural attractions and natural sites for visitors to enjoy.

Here is our recommendation for a family weekend trip to Abilene.

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RHV Hardware is a working hardware store with all the charm of old-time shops.

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Some of Abilene’s attractions include (clockwise from upper left): Auburn Pharmacy, the Greyhound Hall of Fame, the Eisenhower Center (the Dwight D. Eisenhower Presidential Library, Museum and Boyhood Home), the statue honoring Dwight D. Eisenhower and Amanda’s Bakery & Bistro.

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5:45 P.M. Another photo op awaits just around the corner from the library in Little Ike’s Park, where you can take a selfie with the young Ike statue.

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6 P.M. Cross the street and order a basket of fried green beans with wasabi, a craft beer, wine or spirit and relax as you enjoy the casual-chic atmosphere at Three One One. Choose from fish tacos, sliders or full-size burgers paired with freshly made potato chips or onion rings. Entrée specials range from smoked prime rib (on Friday evenings) to blackened mahi served with Jasmine rice or mashed potatoes and a fresh veggie.

OVERNIGHT Choose from one of the city’s hotels or call for weekend reservations at Engle House Bed and Breakfast, one of the few Mission Arts and Crafts homes on the National Register of Historic Places. A getaway where you can relax with a cup of coffee in the library or living room, on the front porch or patio overlooking the original carriage house.

SATURDAY: THE STREETS OF ABILENE 8 A.M. Before breakfast and pastries at the Engle House, begin your morning with a walk through Eisenhower Park & Rose Garden and enjoy a riot of fall flowers and colors.

10 A.M. Take a drive down Third Street and Buckeye and marvel at the stately homes of yesteryear. Keep your eyes

open for Victorian Italianate and Queen Anne architecture intermingled with bungalows. Can you pick out a Prairie-style, a Gothic Revival, Second Empire or Georgian home? Take note of the residence at 800 N. Buckeye, the family home of C.L. Brown. Other Spanish-style homes in the area were built for his employees.

10:45 A.M. Introduce children to seemingly ancient technology by allowing them to speak into the mouthpiece of the wooden box telephone or to dial a rotary phone at the Museum of Independent Telephony located within the Dickinson County Heritage Center. Follow the directions on the switchboard to experience the method telephone operators used to connect calls. As you explore the evolution of the phone, you’ll also discover how C.L. Brown’s independent telephone company eventually evolved into Sprint. Then, move out back where people of all ages will enjoy a ride on an original C.W. Parker Carousel built in Abilene in 1901 by another Abilene entrepreneur. If time allows, check out the log cabin, barn, general store, one-room school and outdoor jail.

12:30 P.M. Join the locals at The Hitching Post for a budgetminded lunch that features home-style cooking.

1:30 P.M. As you enter the carefully maintained 226-acre Brown’s Park, you’ll notice a large, colonial-style brick residence. Dedicated as the Brown’s Home for the Aged in

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3 P.M. On the way back into Abilene, stop and pet the resident greyhounds at the Greyhound Hall of Fame and learn how Abilene became “The Greyhound Capital of the World.” Then, as you drive down Buckeye, keep your eyes open for the large outdoor murals of Hickok and Ike located on the east side of the street just past the Dickinson County Courthouse.

9:30 A.M. Many consider the Eisenhower Center as the city’s gem. Here, you can visit the modest home of the Eisenhower family, pay your respects at the burial place, watch a video at the Visitors Center and purchase an “I Like Ike” pin in the gift shop. Permanent and changing exhibits await you at the library or museum, and there’s another opportunity for a selfie with the 11-foot statue of General Eisenhower. Another option is to step back in time as you enter the grand hall of the Seelye Mansion with a fireplace featuring Tiffany-cut mosaic tile. You’ll be able to tour every room on all three floors in what was once referred to as the finest home between Topeka and Denver. Be sure to roll a wooden ball down their lever-operated bowling alley, and check out the recreated laboratory where patent medicines, such as “Wasa-Tusa” and “For-Zona,” were manufactured.

5:30 P.M. Eat at Mr. K’s Farmhouse in the same location where Ike and Mamie dined when they visited Abilene.

Specialties include chicken or steak strip dinners complete with a salad and soup course; prime rib is available Friday and Saturday nights. Don’t miss their Eisenhower memorabilia, including a paddle signed by Mamie.

11:30 A.M. Take a bite of nostalgia as you sink your teeth into fried chicken at the Brookville Hotel, where the signature meal is served family style on Blue Willow china. Or, you can opt for the bar and grill atmosphere at Ike’s Place, where you’ll find portraits of President Eisenhower as a young sports enthusiast.

Menu choices include wings, burgers, pastas, salads or steak.

7 P.M. Enjoy an evening of professional live theater, professional music or first-run movies at the historic Great Plains Theatre.

12:30 P.M. Before leaving town, pull into Russell Stover candy factory, just off the interstate, for your chocolate or ice cream fix, and be sure to check out the back room for great deals.

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SUNDAY: FINAL CHOICES

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1929, it continues to provide independent living for senior citizens. Although you may drive through the park, it’s also a great place to hike. No matter the mode of transportation, be on the lookout for the Boy Scout Camp and Mary Dell Camp for girls, a nature trail, disc golf course and the Brown waterfall. Look closely and you might discover the remnants of a zoo and the lake that once attracted swimmers and boaters by the droves.

taste of Kansas

TASTE OF KANSAS

Kansas Steaks On the Hunt for

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Steakhouses that will take you off the beaten path

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By Lou Ann Thomas

Photography by Bill Stephens and Josh Roesener

Pair a drink with the steak of your choice and make a new friend or two while dining at Guymon Petro’s communal bar tables.

Atmosphere adds to the steakhouse experience.

Upscale and modern, the interior of Guymon Petro in Dodge City provides a unique dining experience.

Guymon Petro One of the state’s newest steakhouses is Guymon Petro in Dodge City. This beautifully restored brick building was built in 1903 and is located across from the Boot Hill Museum.

They fired up their grills in December 2016.

The steaks are part of the Premium Beef Program, which consists of meat that is a cross of Hereford and first-generation Angus. Every steak, whether the 8-ounce filet, 14-ounce ribeye or the tenderloin medallions, is grilled on an open gas broiler, allowing customers to actually watch their steaks being cooked. Then each is served with choice of a side, which includes the option of an over-sized baked potato loaded with butter, sour cream, cheddar cheese and bacon bits.

“It’s a meal in itself,” manager Dexter Whitney says.

Other side choices include Cajun corn, Napa slaw, sweet potato fries or roasted garlic mashed potatoes.

On Friday and Saturday nights Guymon Petro offers a prime rib special and features live music.

Jim’s Steakhouse Another steakhouse that has stood the test of time is Jim’s Steakhouse in Pittsburg, which, since 1938, has been known for its in-house cut steaks and large portions.

“I won’t serve what I wouldn’t want to eat.”

–RICK ELLSWORTH, owner of Jim’s Steakhouse in Pittsburg

One of the most popular items is the sirloin tips, an entire pound of hand tenderized, lean and trimmed sirloin served with two sides. The tips are so popular that Jim’s goes through two tons of them every month.

Another popular cut of steak is the ribeye, which is well marbled for the ultimate tenderness and taste.

For a side, be sure to check out the onion rings. Like the fries, Jim’s onion rings are hand cut and also breaded in-house.

They are served in generous portions, and owner Rick Ellsworth says that on any given night it’s rare a table doesn’t have a plate of them on it.

“I won’t serve what I wouldn’t want to eat,” Ellsworth says.

North Star Steakhouse The North Star Steakhouse, in North Topeka, has been delighting beef lovers’ taste buds since the early 1940s. Original owner, William E. “Jug” Robinson, was a notorious bootlegger during prohibition, and the atmosphere inside the simple white clapboard building with the large green star on the front still has the feel of a tuckedaway speakeasy.

But walk through the door with the little window, which was once used to determine whether you should be allowed to enter, and it quickly becomes all about the steak, which is cooked on a well-seasoned flattop grill.

The house “Steak for Two,” a 32-ounce hand-cut sirloin, is a North Star original, but steaks on the menu range from an eight-ounce bacon-wrapped filet to a 28-ounce Porterhouse.

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anking third in the country in beef production, Kansas is known for great steaks and steakhouses. Here we list a few steakhouse standards and a few new heavy-hitters, as well as some less well-known gems. All are worth the trip.

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Housed in a historic building across Wyatt Earp Boulevard from the Boot Hill Museum in Dodge City, Guymon Petro honors its cowtown roots with modern flair.

taste of Kansas

A REAL COWBOY BAR Buster’s Saloon in Sun City isn’t really a steak place, but it is a place for a great steak.

In a town of fewer than 50 people, Buster’s is surrounded by Gypsum Hills and prairie. In fact, it has been described as an “authentic cowboy bar in the middle of nowhere.”

Yet this Barber County watering hole has been serving up cold beer and food since Buster Hathaway bought the 1870s-era building in 1946.

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Six years ago, rancher Harry Dawson purchased the saloon and has kept it much as it was. On the weekends he serves barbeque, specials and an award-winning ribeye steak, listed among the “top ten steaks in Kansas” by various travel websites. Every steak is cut in-house, seared to keep the juices in, then slow cooked. Most of the steaks are Certified Angus, but Dawson, whose family has been in the beef business in Barber County since 1901, sometimes uses beef raised on his own ranch.

– HARRY DAWSON

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“People come here to slow down and relax.

We’re not in a hurry, and if you are, we think you should slow down.”

Dawson also raises the heritage hogs used in Buster’s homemade cheese-andjalapeno sausage. Another Buster’s original is a dish called When Pigs Can Fly, which is a large, whole chicken, stuffed with five different kinds of peppers and heritage pork, then smoked for four hours.

The saloon usually opens around Happy Hour on Thursday, and on Friday, Saturday and Sunday at 11 a.m.

North Star Steakhouse, North Topeka

A local favorite is the 14-ounce, three-quarter-inch thick KC Strip served, as every steak is, with a salad, dinner rolls and a side.

Those sides include a bottomless platter of fresh hand-cut fries and pan gravy, hash browns with gravy or a loaded baked potato. Though best known for its steaks, the restaurant also serves fried, blackened or grilled catfish and a chicken-fried steak that fills a plate.

“We’re a small operation, with only 14 tables, so we can control everything easily and focus on great food and customer service,” Jeff Schell, managing partner, says.

Big Ed’s When you order a steak at Big Ed’s in Bird City, it’s a good bet that the person cooking it over the open grill knows what she’s doing. That’s because Cathy Loop, the main cook at Big Ed’s, has been grilling steaks there for more than 16 years. In fact, when Robert and Sherry Cherry purchased Big Ed’s nine years ago, Loop was part of the deal.

The loin from which the steaks are cut is never frozen and each steak is cut to order, ranging from petite, around 12 ounces, to Big Ed’s size, which can go about as large as you can eat. On Friday and Saturday night, hungry diners can order the Big Ed’s Prime Rib, which runs a whopping 28 to 30 ounces.

Before hitting the grill, each steak is seasoned with Big Ed’s Seasoning, the ingredients of which are a closely held secret. Customers can purchase small bottles of the seasoning at the restaurant to take home with them.

The Cherrys wanted to keep Big Ed’s true to its history of serving great steaks and maintain its friendly reputation, so they have made very few changes since taking ownership.

“We decided if it wasn’t broken, then we shouldn’t mess with it,” Sherry says. “And we haven’t. It’s pretty much the way it has always been.”

Which means it’s still all about the steaks and the atmosphere.

Contributing to the hometown feel of the place are the original wood floors and tin ceilings, with animal heads and Robert’s hunting trophies adorning the walls.

Music Mini Fest

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09.12.17 Performers from the Walnut Festival come to provide music to school kids, the community, veterans, and festival goers from 9 am to 3 pm. Reservations for large groups are required.

Baden Square: 700 Gary Winfield, KS

620-221-2161 |

winfieldarts.org

Sponsored in part by Winfield Convention & Tourism

BeBop Market Vintage, antiques, and lots of other very cool stuff!

BeBopMarkets.com

Clay County

Large Variety of Pop-Up Shops at Kansas’ Most Fun Holiday Market!

November 19, 2017 (Sunday), 9 am-5 pm Anderson Building, Industrial Road, Lyon County Fairgrounds, Emporia, KS

traVel & tourism

VISIT CLAY COUNTY! SpeCIAL eVeNTS: • Longford Rodeo • Pioneer Festival

• Annual Piotique Celebration • City Band Summer Event

Visit our website for details and event dates! www.claycokansas.com

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FEATURES 40 |

The Chisholm Legacy

52 |

Song Trails From Texas to Kansas, a music scholar traces the heritage of cowboy songs

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Rex Buchanan follows the old trail “that still wants to head north”

PHOTOGRAPH Justin Lister

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chisholm 41 FALL 2017

Rex Buchanan follows the old trail “that still wants to head north”

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legacy Story by Rex Buchanan Photography by Justin Lister Illustration by Torren Thomas OPPOSITE Artist Torren Thomas recreates some of the faces of the men—and few women—who herded cattle from Texas to Kansas along the Chisholm Trail.

PHOTOGRAPH Doug Stremel

modern

Trail Riding Retrace the Chisholm Trail, in comfort with this four-day travel guide by Cecilia Harris

In 1867, drovers spent weeks herding longhorns through Texas and Oklahoma before sitting in the saddle another 15 days to push the cattle from the Kansas border to the railroad shipping point in Abilene.

Now, of course, you can spend far less time driving that same route.

In fact, in just three hours you can retrace the entire Kansas portion of the Chisholm Trail, but if you have time, you can take a longer journey and stop at historic attractions and great dining spots along the way.

Here is our guide to a four-day trip along the Chisholm Trail route.

We suggest following U.S. Highway 81 from the Kansas-Oklahoma state

the Old Chisholm Trail

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

Ever since the last cattle were driven up the trail in the 1870s, it has been romanticized to the point that it’s synonymous with the Old West. The Chisholm Trail, and other cattle trails from those times, still influences the clothes we wear, the music we listen to, the movies we see, the food we eat, even the way we think about ourselves.

Even now, the trail is still out there, reminding us of the days gone by.

Most trails and roads in the West are old, starting out as game trails, used by deer or bison, and later by Native Americans. The Chisholm Trail, though, is a little different.

It is generally credited to Jesse Chisholm, who laid it out shortly after the Civil War. Then Illinois cattle dealer Joseph McCoy saw the money to be made in moving cattle from Texas ranches to Kansas railheads. In 1867 he built stockyards in Abilene and talked to the railroads. He did some advertising. And the cattle, mostly longhorns at first, came up from Texas, driven by young riders, among whom were African Americans, Mexicans, some women and former Confederate soldiers. Covering 15 or 20 miles a day, they pushed the cattle north to Kansas, first to Abilene, later to Newton and Ellsworth, as the trail evolved in response to the railroads and settlers. Eventually, the cattle drives shifted farther west, to Dodge City and Ogallala, Nebraska, before the settled frontier and now-established cowherds in the north brought them to an end.

In some ways, these trails aren’t completely dead.

The Chisholm Trail in Kansas, though not as well marked or celebrated as, say, the Oregon or Santa Fe trails, is still there. Shoot, it’s shown on today’s Kansas highway map and fairly easy to trace by car.

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line to Caldwell and then to Wichita. From there, take Interstate 135 to Newton, and then Kansas Highway 15 to Abilene. Each of these towns along the original path was, at one time, the end of the often-changing Chisholm Trail route as the railroad moved south. Of course, since you are not driving cattle, you can reverse the route depending on where you begin. You can also adapt the trip into a threeday, two-day or one-day journey and concentrate on a few highlights.

Whichever option you choose, the trail awaits. Enjoy the route, and a word of advice to the wise trail boss: Be sure to scout ahead on seasonal hours for attractions so that you don’t have a wagonload of disgruntled riders.

Now, of course, you can spend far less time driving that same route.

In fact, in just three hours you can retrace the entire Kansas portion of the Chisholm Trail

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day one modern

Trail Riding

Arise at daybreak like a cowhand, round up yer pardners and start your trail ride near the state line two miles south of Caldwell at the Highway 81 roadside turnout for the Ghost Riders of the Chisholm Trail silhouette and marker. Mounted on top of a stony bluff, this lifesize metal cutout of cattle, drovers and a chuck wagon on the original trail reflect the drives of yesteryear and mark a great viewing spot.

After this stop, mosey into Caldwell, branded the “Border Queen City� in its early days, and stop at the Trails, Rails and Scales Visitors Center. Here, you can ask for a downtown walking tour map of historical markers. The tour features true tales from the raucous cattle-town era after the railroad arrived, such as the story of a cowboy who survived 13 wounds in a gunfight only to be tried for murder. At high noon, graze on beef

The Historic Chisholm Trail The drovers learned to follow trails Where Chisholm’s wagons passed.

They led them through frontier travails, To journey’s end at last.

One hundred fifty years ago, War stopped, to our relief.

But for our nation yet to grow, The people needed beef.

With that, the Chisholm Trail was blazed Into our nation’s story, And generations now have raised The legend into glory.

Then came a man named Joe McCoy Whose visionary plan Would bring alive the great cowboy And change our hist’ry’s span.

These cowboys tamed the wild, wild west, With bravery unsparing.

They earned their place in hist’ry’s quest, Through courage brave and daring.

He saw where railroads sent their trains.

His vision was foreseen: Move Texas cattle through the plains, Clear up to Abilene.

Today, in our mind’s eye we see The spectacle they brought: Of cowboys ranging wild and free In spite of dangers fraught.

The railroads built the stockyards here To take the herds of beasts, And ship them on from the frontier To markets in the east.

The bawl of steer, the neigh of horse, The sizzle of a brand, Would set the stage for this route’s course On up to Kansas land.

In Texas, longhorns ranging free Were worth four bucks a head, But in the cities they could be Ten times that, people said.

The story of the Chisholm Trail Shows brave determination That helped these heroes to prevail And build a growing nation.

So Texas drovers heard those words, And chose to venture forth.

They gathered up vast cattle herds, And bravely brought them north.

So now we pause to celebrate And honor without fail, The vision which they did create: The historic Chisholm Trail.

Then Jesse Chisholm traded goods To Indian tribes down south.

His wagons rolled through plains and woods In times of rain and drouth.

at The Red Barn or The Shack, then take a selfie near the life-size longhorn steer replica in Heritage Park and admire the Chisholm Trail Outdoor Mural. After touring past trail artifacts at the Border Queen Museum, pay your respects at the Boot Hill tombstones in the City Cemetery. For dinner, consider Richard’s Last Chance Bar and Grill to rustle up tasty steak. Up the road about 30 miles, lay out your bed roll or rent a cabin at the Wellington KOA where you can pitch horseshoes.

NOTE: A shorter version of this poem will be included in the official program of the 2017 Symphony on the Flint Hills. Author Ron Wilson was proclaimed the state’s “Poet Lariat” by a 2003 gubernatorial proclamation. You can read more of his work inspired by rural life and Kansas ranching culture at ronscowboypoetry.com

Caldwell’s main street, 1900, a few years after it was a vital resting point along the Chisholm Trail. Photograph courtesy Kansas State Historical Society.

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In the annals of our nation Stands this immortal tale: The remarkable migration Known as the Chisholm Trail.

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by Ron Wilson, Official “Poet Lariat” of the State of Kansas

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In some ways, these trails aren’t completely dead. The Chisholm Trail in Kansas, though not as well marked or celebrated as, say, the Oregon or Santa Fe trails, is still there.

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The trail enters Kansas down by the Oklahoma border, just south of Caldwell, which was established in 1871, grew up along the trail, and really became an honest-to-goodness cowtown later on. It embraces that cowboy heritage, with an annual festival celebrating the Chisholm Trail’s founding.

Today, about where the trail entered Kansas from Oklahoma, a stand of wind turbines cranks slowly away in the wind.

From Caldwell, the trail heads generally north and a little east. Back in the old days, this would have been mixed-grass prairie, a combination of the grasses from the tallgrass prairie to the east and the shortgrass prairie to the west. Today, it’s mostly wheat (Sumner County often leads the state in wheat production) and some cotton. The land here is strikingly flat, as you might expect. Cattle trails, like most routes, take the path of least resistance, and here the trail passes through the Wellington/McPherson Lowlands and the Arkansas River Lowlands, areas where time and erosion have flattened out the land, something Jesse Chisholm took advantage of.

But there were obstacles. Many rivers to cross. Today, those streams, like the Chikaskia River and Slate Creek, north of Caldwell, are barely noticeable from the road. But in the old days they must have been a challenge, especially when they were in flood. As it continues north, the trail drops into bottom ground near today’s town of Clearwater, crosses the Ninnescah, then angles north and east to Wichita. Most of the physical evidence of the trail is lost in the city, but place names of natural features serve as reminders. Cowskin Creek, which runs by the southwest edge of Wichita, close to the airport, probably earned its name because the hides of cattle that died along the trail and were stretched out here. Northeast of Wichita, the trail goes across branches of Chisholm Creek, named after the man himself.

From Wichita, after crossing the Arkansas River, the trail heads generally north, up to Newton. In fact, the trail, though it is nothing more than a road, seems to have a northward drive to it—a directional urging rare in a state where the lanes generally take us east and west. So it heads north, inexorably north, at times with an angle a little to the east, through more wheat fields and hedgerows. But in Marion County, north of the town of Goessel (a place better known for its Mennonite heritage than any cow trail), the land opens up,

day two modern

Trail Riding

Ride into Wellington and pick up supplies—Western-themed handmade jewelry, photographs and paintings—at Huckleberry’s Handmade Gear and Cowboy Collectibles.

After shopping, you can lunch on a cheesesteak sandwich at No. 7 Coffee House. Tour the Chisholm Trail Museum where you’ll find a coffee pot, pistol and other items cowboys used on the cattle drives passing west of the city. You can also ask directions to a monument that sits directly on the trail. Steer toward Clearwater, founded in 1869 as a trading post for the Texas cattlemen heading to Abilene. Don’t miss the Clearwater Historical Society Museum and a stone monument and metal silhouettes standing on the trail route. After Clearwater, you can head ’em up and move ’em out to the Historic Delano District in Wichita. Weary drovers looked for a mulberry tree, which still stands on West Maple Street, as a sign they were nearing the end of the trail. Herds were brought through what was then

the frontier town of Delano. Today, a stone monument in Delano Park marks the spot where cattle crossed the Arkansas River to enter Wichita for shipment. Further east on Douglas Street, a plaque near Union Station in Wichita’s Old Town indicates where the cattle pens and loading chutes once stood. With guns outlawed in Wichita at the time, the trail-riding and gun-toting cowboys often chose to spend their pay and keep pistols close to hand in Delano’s gambling halls and saloons. You can quench your thirst at local watering holes here as well. Throw down a Dove Runner Red Wheat at Aero Plains Brewing, or order bourbon at The Monarch, named after a Wichita saloon from the 1870s. You can also lasso a cowboy hat at Hatman Jack’s, one of the largest hat stores in the country. Steer east of the trail to the Prairie Rose Chuckwagon near Benton, to spend the rest of the day riding in a horse-drawn wagon; shopping the mercantile; watching an old Western movie; visiting the Hopalong Cassidy and the Silver Screen Cowboys museums; dining on smoked brisket, cowboy baked beans and hot apple cobbler; and listening as the Prairie Rose Rangers perform cowboy ballads and western tunes. Return to Wichita’s historic Hotel at Old Town to bed down for the night.

day three modern

Trail Riding

Shoot over to Wichita’s Old Cowtown Museum to talk with a blacksmith, gunfighters, drovers, and other historical interpreters while touring the more than 50 original and re-created structures that include a saddle and harness shop, city marshal’s office, jail, saloon and dry goods store. For lunch, order a Cowboy Ribeye at the River City Brewing Company, then stop at the Wichita-Sedgwick County Historical Museum to see the Chisholm Trail pictorial exhibit.

Keep them dogies movin’ as you follow Interstate 135 north to Newton. Stop at the Harvey County Historical Museum for a Historical Marker Driving Tour brochure and to learn about the infamous Gunfight at Hide Park in 1871. The shootout occurred inside Tuttles Dance Hall, which stood a little more than a block away at the corner of West Second Street and Old Mill Road. Over yonder in North Newton, visible swales

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Even now, it’s easy to imagine cattle herds grazing in the Smoky Hills pastures, maybe putting on a few more pounds as they slowly cover the last few miles to the railhead.

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

begins to undulate. The trail moves into an eastern outpost of what is, in effect, the Smoky Hills. The bedrock here is sandstone, deposited during the Cretaceous Period of geologic history, 100 million years ago. This landscape is more rolling, some still in pastures of native grass, the same grass the old cowherds would have encountered. This landscape is less altered by human activity, easier to identify with horses and cattle.

Continuing north, ever north, between the little towns of Lehigh and Canton, the Chisholm Trail encounters the Santa Fe Trail. Two great lines of commerce intersect here. The Santa Fe Trail, busy long before the Chisholm Trail got started, was, of course, mainly a freight trail for goods going to New Mexico. It seems like the meeting place of these trails should be celebrated as a vortex of the Old West.

Instead it’s a place of pastures and wheat fields, railroad tracks and meadowlarks.

Oddly quiet, considering all the history it must have seen.

From this historic location, the Chisholm Trail continues north, through these sandstone hills, across the Smoky Hill River and on into Abilene. Even now, it’s easy to imagine cattle herds grazing in the Smoky Hills pastures, maybe putting on a few more pounds as they slowly cover the last few miles into the railhead.

It’s just as easy to look at this land in our own times, say, on an early spring day when the grass begins to green up and cattle dot the hillsides, and think back on how much that old trail, its cowboys, and, yes, Jesse Chisholm still influence us. Kansas still produces lots of beef. Kansans still go to rodeos and listen to country music and alternately embrace and deny the designation of their cities as “cowtowns.”

And much of that because of an old trail that still wants to head north, a trail that has receded into history, but still leads us to who we are.

from the cattle still can be seen in Chisholm Trail Park near the Kauffman Museum, which is surrounded by native tallgrass prairie.

You can arrive at Abilene in time to order a Chisholm Trail Steak at Joe Snuffy’s Old Fashioned Grill for dinner. It’s just a short ride to the Windmill Inn Bed and Breakfast for a cowboy’s view of the stars over the prairie before turning in for the night, or stay at Abilene’s Victorian Inn Bed and Breakfast, an 1887 physician’s home that reflected the opulent era ushered in by the cattle drive’s financial boom.

Actors at Wichita’s Old Cowtown Museum portray life and the professions that would be encountered along the Chisholm Trail in the mid- to late-1800s.

Why “Chisholm”?

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

The historic cattle trail takes its name not from a cowboy or cattle baron, but from a savvy trader who knew the land and the people who would travel across it

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Sometime in 1865, a half-Cherokee by the name of Jesse Chisholm sought to expand the reach of his trading post at the mouth of the Arkansas River by scouting a trail from Wichita and south into Indian Territory. By the next year, he had made several runs on this trail, sometimes with cattle and other times with supplies, and his route became known as “Chisholm’s Trail,” changing to “The Chisholm Trail” as other cattlemen began to use it over the next few years.

The trail that Chisholm laid out would expand to Abilene and, in 1867, down into Texas when the Kansas legislature lifted a law to allow Texas cattle to be driven into the state west of the sixth meridian—roughly near McPherson, and west to Colorado.

A year later, Chisholm died, and the trail’s name outlived its founder.

According to Kerry Wynn, associate professor with Washburn University’s history department, Chisholm was part of the early trail development “when there was money to be made and adventure to be had.” But he wasn’t a political leader or large-scale businessman who created the route through heavy trading. What Chisholm did bring was knowledge of the land. Wynn says Chisholm had been in the American West with his mother before the Cherokee were forcibly removed to that area in the late 1830s. Years in the region allowed him to become familiar with traditional animal migration and trading trails that had been used for centuries.

“An important aspect of this region is that it is a meeting ground and a trading ground for many groups of people, a crossroad between major Native-American nations that trade, such as the Comanche coming up from the west and south, long before Europeans came,” says Wynn. Chisholm, who had worked as an interpreter and guide, would have known these routes well. And because he set up a trading post, Chisholm also would have known the people along those routes.

“Chisholm’s distinctiveness is in his interactions with many different groups of people,” says Wynn. “He was a trader and a negotiator; he moved between the two worlds, which allowed him to make a lot of money for himself and for people like him.” James Mead, one of the founders of Wichita, was just one of the people who worked with, and prospered along with, Chisholm.

The trail that took Chisholm’s name ran into difficulties in 1885 when Kansas lawmakers once again banned driving cattle from Texas to Kansas to try to stop the spread of Spanish fever and hoof-and-mouth disease. By this time, however, the railroads had expanded into Texas and were replacing open-range cattle drives. But the trail remained, if not in active use, then certainly in historical memory, always bearing the name of the man who was believed to speak some fourteen different languages and guided tribes, traders and cattle trains across the lands he knew so well.

–Christine Steinkuehler

day four modern

Trail Riding Jacque Karl owns and manages Rittel’s Western Wear in Abilene.

Watch can-can dancers kick up their heels in the Alamo Saloon as you sip a sarsaparilla before stepping outside the swinging doors at the sound of a gunfight in the dusty street in Old Abilene Town.

Sink your teeth into a Wild Bill Burger at the Hitching Post, then corral the kids and hop aboard the Abilene and Smoky Valley Railroad’s excursion train pulled through the prairie by a steam locomotive. Mosey to the Heritage Center to spur your knowledge of this, the first wild and wooly cattle town,

where Wild Bill Hickok shot his own deputy and Marshal Tom Smith ruled with his fists. Be sure to see the six-shooter Hickok took off a rowdy cowboy, then head over to the city’s CVB to rein in a Texas Street guide identifying the 1860s saloons, gambling houses and mercantiles in the original business district. Also at the CVB, you can pick up a driving tour brochure of historic sites such as the Drovers Cottage, the stockyards, and Smith’s gravestone in the Abilene Cemetery. Outfit yourself in a cowboy hat, boots and jeans at Rittel’s Western Wear before riding off into the sunset toward home.

Outfit yourself in a cowboy hat, boots and jeans …

Photograph of Dodge City Cowboy Band courtesy Library of Congress

t r a i l s

From Texas to Kansas, a music scholar traces the heritage of cowboy songs Story by Patricia E. Ackerman

“The Cowboy Girl Musical Selections” courtesy Library of Congress

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

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Growing up in South Texas, Jana Fallin developed an early fascination with cowboy history. She loved hearing tales about cowboys rounding up unruly herds of longhorn cattle near her hometown of Coleman, Texas, and learning about the rides north along the historic Chisholm Trail.

That young cowgirl-wannabe went on to earn an undergraduate degree in music from Baylor University, followed by master’s and PhD degrees in music from the University of Texas at Austin.

Her childhood love for cowboy history evolved into academic research about the history of cowboy music.

Strangely enough, her career followed the route of the … the songs are more Chisholm Trail as she accepted than an old-timey playlist. a tenure-track position with They are also working Kansas State University’s School of Music in Manhattan, tools passed on to us.

Kansas. Since 1988, Fallin, her husband, David, and their two sons have called Manhattan home—and Fallin has been able to pursue research in cowboy music along the Chisholm Trail.

For two decades, sometimes sponsored by programs such as the Big XII Faculty Fellowship, Fallin has researched these songs in various locations such as the extensive western history collections archived at the University of Texas and the University of Oklahoma libraries, the Kansas State Historical Society, KSU’s Hale Library, the Smithsonian Institute, and the U.S. Library of Congress.

One of the most important collections Fallin found was the cowboy music collection in the

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University of Texas library that houses the cowboy music collection of John A. Lomax and his son, Allen Lomax. John Lomax grew up hearing the songs from actual cowboys and started the first real collection of cowboy songs in the early 1900s by recording them with early devices.

“He went on to publish a book titled Cowboy Songs & Other Frontier Ballads,” says Fallin.

“This was the first real collection of cowboy music ever to be published.”

For Fallin, the songs are more than an old-timey playlist. They are also working tools passed on to us. Storms, predators, hunger, and exhaustion, could result in stampedes. So the cowboys sang along the Chisholm Trail to calm their cattle as they were driven north across hot and dusty trails.

Fallin has given hundreds of presentations on trail music across the state of Kansas. “I especially enjoy talking with school children,” she says. “They love cowboy history and really enjoy singing the songs that the cowboys sang along the trail.”

One of the songs Fallin has researched extensively is “Home on the Range,” which was originally a poem by Brewster M. Higley titled “My Western Home.” Higley, a native of Indiana, moved West into a cabin on West Beaver Creek in Smith County, Kansas, where he wrote the poem. It was first published in the Smith County Pioneer in 1875. Daniel E. Kelley, a carpenter friend of Higley, created a tune for the poem.

As trade routes like the Chisholm Trail moved cattle from Texas to Kansas, the cowboy culture connected the two regions. Higley’s prairie poem traveled south until Texas composer David W. Guion later compiled sheet music for it, and we now know the song as “Home on the Range.” It came to be called the unofficial anthem of the American West and was adopted as the official state song of Kansas on June 30, 1947. Many renditions of this iconic tune have been performed by legends such as Bing Crosby, Frank Sinatra, Gene Autry, Burl Ives, Pete Seeger, Willie Nelson, and Connie Francis. “Home on the Range” was reported to be the favorite song of President Franklin D. Roosevelt.

For Fallin, the song’s history and legacy are an example of how the Chisholm Trail, the prairie and the cattle drives continue to be more than legends or footnotes in the past, but a connection to our heritage.

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