KANSAS! Magazine | Fall 2016

FALL 2016 | VOL 72 | ISSUE 3 | KANSASMAG.COM

RAGE E V E B SUE IS the

Touring the don’t- miss in Kansas $4.99

Buffalo Soldiers

tallgrass filmmakers

small-batch bread bakeries

contents features 36 |

Raise a Glass

47 |

The Wines of Miami County

52 |

Buffalo Soldiers

If you’re looking for a buzz or warm and fuzzy feeling, you’ve come to the right place. Kansas’ liquid culture is all the rage.

One region of Kansas makes the case for a grape revival.

Formed 150 years ago at Fort Leavenworth and destined to fight for a nation that didn’t want them, a group of soldiers left a legacy of courage, honor and contradictions.

departments 04 |

In This Issue

06 |

Editor’s Letter

09 |

This Season

10 | Eat 12 | Outside 13 | Shop 15 | Sampler 16 | Culture 17 | Ride 18 | Reasons We Love Kansas 21 | Fall 2016 Events

22 |

Wide Open Spaces

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

FALL 2016

02

22 | A CITY IN THE HILLS

Nestled in the Flint Hills, Manhattan offers an

anything-goes atmosphere with a side of adventure.

26 | FILMS IN THE HEARTLAND

Wichita is becoming the premier spot in Kansas for

independent filmmakers, thanks to the Tallgrass Film Festival.

30 | TASTE OF KANSAS: ARTISAN BREADS

Across Kansas, small-batch bakers such as Sharon Entz

are creating bread loaves rich in history, texture and taste.

59 |

KANSAS! Gallery: Fall

64 |

Fall 2016 Milestone

DOUGLAS COUNTY | Jeff McPheeters

KANSAS! MAGAZINE FALL 2016

03

FALL 2016 | VOL 72 | ISSUE 3 | KANSASMAG.COM

the RAGE BEVE UE ISS

Touring the don’t- miss in Kansas $4.99

Buffalo Soldiers

tallgrass filmmakers

small-batch bread bakeries

ON THE COVER Fresh Seven Coffee is a small-batch micro roaster and espresso bar in St. Francis that will serve each batch of coffee beans for—you guessed it—only seven days. Photograph by Doug Stremel

IN THIS

issue 36

POUR AND REPEAT

Our feature article on Kansas drink destinations required some drinking … but even more pouring.

After destinations were selected, photographer Doug Stremel headed out to Fresh Seven Coffee in St. Francis and The Bourgeois Pig in Lawrence to capture the images. Coffee foam topping was perfected, ice cubes were replaced and beer was poured.That image of a frothy head of beer on page 43 was the result of many attempts to get the perfect overflow shot. Art demands sacrifice, and in this case, it was spilt beer.

THIS FALL

our group includes

Writers

Photographers

Illustrator

IT’S JUST THE RHINO WAY

FALL 2016

04

For our feature story on Buffalo Soldiers, Kansas artist 52 Ted S. Komala recreated images from the past by basing his drawings on archive images, most of which were black and white. The work of military historians and historical reenactors helped fill in the gaps on the colors of certain articles of clothing, though the details of some items—such as a dusty neckerchief, remain an educated guess.

We were a bit skeptical when the draft for the “events” section arrived and included information that a rhinoceros would be participating in an upcoming animal painting party at Salina’s Rolling Hills Zoo. But zoo spokesperson Linda Henderson confirmed their rhinos would paint in their own particular way—“butt prints.” Non-toxic paint is applied to the rear end of a rhino, which backs up into the canvas. Needless to say, this is done only by trained zookeepers; don’t try this at home with your own rhino.

PHOTOGRAPHS (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) Doug Stremel, Shutterstock, Ted S. Komala

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

BUFFALO SOLDIER FASHION

FALL2016

Kansas Department of Wildlife, Parks and Tourism Andrea Etzel EDITOR

Sam Brownback GOVERNOR

Robin Jennison

KDWPT SECRETARY

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05 FALL 2016

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KANSAS! MAGAZINE

DIRECTOR OF SPECIAL PROJECTS

FROM THE

editor

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

WHEN SUNFLOWERS BLOOM, IT MEANS THE END OF SUMMER IS NEAR. They are the exclamation point to a season of weekends at the lake, hot and sticky days, and warm nights watching fireflies flicker across the backyard. I know when their golden petals begin to fall, cooler weather is close—bringing with it the sights and smells of autumn.

After a sweltering summer, autumn seems like a blessing. So, let’s raise a glass! Whether you enjoy a refreshing beer while tailgating, relaxing on the porch swing with a glass of wine, or sharing a cup of steaming coffee with a friend, this issue provides you with a “starter” list of some of the best places to quench your thirst.

Thank you to all who participated in our readers’ choice “favorite small towns” in Kansas. After tallying the thousands of votes that poured in from across the nation, we have chosen the top five communities. The winners will be unveiled in our annual Readers’ Choice issue this winter.

FALL 2016

06

ANDREA ETZEL

PHOTOGRAPH KDWPT

EDITOR, KANSAS! MAGAZINE

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KANSAS!

WINFIELD ART IN THE PARK October 1, 2016

Clay

Cou nty traVel & tourism

Island Park, Winfield, KS

• Outdoor art festival • Entertainment • Children’s art activities • Food vendors • Juried Show 12 x 12 booth for $40

VISIT CLAY COUNTY! • 100th Year City Band Special • Longford Rodeo Concert Series Events: • Pioneer Festival • Piotique-80th Anniversary

Sponsored in part by Winfield Convention & Tourism

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M M

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09.13.16

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Performers from the Walnut Festival come to provide music to school kids, the community, veterans, and festival goers from 9 am to 3 pm. Reservations for large groups are required.

317 COMMERCIAL ST.

Known far and wide as the shop worth the trip!

Baden Square: 700 Gary Winfield, KS

620-221-2161 |

There is plenty to see and do in Kansas.

Be sure to call ahead for complete details.

winfieldarts.org

Thursday thru Saturday, 10am-5pm and anytime the open sign in the window is on.

620.412.2759 • antiquespapermoon.com

Sponsored in part by Winfield Convention & Tourism

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The WoodWard Inns on FIllmore Chosen Best of the Midwest Travel 2014, 2015 and 2016 by Midwest Living Magazine 1272 SW Fillmore Street, Topeka, KS 66604 • (785) 354-7111 • www.TheWoodward.com

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30

THIS SEASON 26

22

Welcome to KANSAS! magazine’s “This Season.” Here we explore what’s new and buzzing throughout the state—from restaurants and shopping to cultural happenings and attractions.

10 Eat 12 Outside 13 Shop Newton

15 Sampler Manhattan Lawrence

PHOTOGRAPHS (FROM TOP LEFT) Doug Stremel, David Mayes, Deborah Walker, Justin Johnson

Where in

KANSAS?

16 Culture 17 Ride 18 Reasons We Love Kansas 21 Fall 2016 Events WIDE OPEN SPACES 22 A City in the Hills 26 Films in the Heartland 30 Taste of Kansas: Artisan Breads

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

Wichita

09 FALL 2016

Land & Sky Scenic Byway

eat.

this season

By Lou Ann Thomas

COOKOFF

at Porubsky’s Deli and Tavern

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

W

FALL 2016

10

hen temperatures begin to cool, our appetites shift from light fare to more hearty offerings. And what better way to warm us inside and out than with a bowl of steaming hot chili?

The quaint Porubsky’s Deli and Tavern in the Little Russia neighborhood of Topeka is a must-go for some of the tastiest chili in Kansas.

The Porubsky family has been dishing up its famous chili at lunch since 1947.The recipe was passed down from late founder of the deli, Katie Porubsky, and is still made fresh every day by her grandson and today’s owner, Charlie Porubsky, who grinds the hamburger each morning for the daily batch. Besides faithful locals, the chili has gotten national attention from Gourmet magazine, describing it as a “fine bowl of heartland comfort” and that “for the truly committed chilihead, Porubsky’s is not just a place to eat. It is a destination in itself.”

As fine as this dish is, you have a limited time to stop in—from September 1 through April 1, chili is served from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., Monday through Thursday. But, Charlie says, for those who need some chili for a meeting, gathering or event, he will be happy to set some

Where in

KANSAS?

aside, to be re-heated by the customer, for pick-up on Fridays.

For the brave, the chili is best paired with house-made hot pickles. If one doesn’t make you break a sweat then the other should. The hot pickles are the creation of Charlie Porubsky Sr., Katie’s son, and they get their heat from horseradish, Tabasco sauce and ground mustard. The cold-cut plate is another great addition to the chili and is large enough to be shared. But even when it’s not chili season, the deli serves up delicious, stacked-high sandwiches.

You might think the Porubsky family has enough to do to keep a deli and tavern going, but the building also houses a neighborhood grocery store.

Whether you enter through the tavern door or the grocery store, you’ll feel like you’re stepping back in history. Little has changed since Katie Porubsky opened the doors of this establishment tucked away next to the railroad tracks near today’s New Sardou Bridge.

Grab a seat at the counter or in a booth and mingle with the regulars, who could be anyone from blue-collar workers to state legislators and clergy.

But remember—there is no chili on Fridays. That’s the cook’s day off.

Get it while it’s hot! This chili is only available September 1 through April 1.

LENEXA CHILI CHALLENGE October 14–15, Old Town Lenexa The Lenexa Chili Challenge hosts 200 teams competing in two chili divisions—Chili Appreciation Society International and Home Style.

You can get free samples of chili Saturday beginning at 10 a.m. The samples are available while supplies last, so get there early for a taste.

There’s no shortage of activity with salsa and hot wing contests, live music and fireworks on Friday night.

On Saturday, find a hot-peppereating contest, beanbag toss tournament, and, for kids age 12 and under, a Kids Kornbread Contest.

Contest winners of chili challenge and Kids Kornbread Contest are announced Saturday at 4 p.m.

Lenexa.com Y’S BSK ERN U R PO & TAV u I DEL ardo E S 5788 N 508 ) 234(785

PHOTOGRAPH Doug Stremel

“Heartland comfort”

WAGONMASTERS DOWNTOWN CHILI COOKOFF September 24, Wichita For more than 30 years, the Wagonmasters Downtown Chili Cookoff, on Douglas Avenue in downtown Wichita, has been the place for chili cooks and tasters to converge. This year more than 70 teams from Kansas and surrounding states are expected to compete in the cookoff on Saturday, Sept. 24. More than $5,000 in prizes will be awarded in several divisions, including People’s Choice, determined by attendees, who leave a brightly colored bean (from their $5 ticket package) at the booth serving their favorite chili. The public tasting begins at noon. Live entertainment and other fun events, like the Mr. Hot Stuff and Ms. Chili Pepper contests, are also part of the day. wagonmasterschili.com

outside.

By Dave Zumbaugh

The Changing Leaves

T

he trees in the Sunflower State are full of the dazzling orange, red and yellow colors of fall, as long as you know where to direct your gaze.According to the alwaystrustworthy Farmers’Almanac, the peak stage to view fall foliage in Kansas is the last two weeks of October. So let’s take off! Don’t forget your camera to capture images for family and friends to enjoy later.

HIT THE SCENIC RIVER ROAD From the Lawrence area, go north on dusty county road East 850 that ends at the Kansas River. Continue west on North 2050 to encounter an unusual experience—mature trees, bursting with autumn colors, entirely wrapping the thoroughfare. This route converges into the historic Scenic River Road and includes broad vistas of the Kaw flood plain, with vibrant hardwood-covered hills.

ADVENTURE AWAITS ON THE KAW Head west toward the sunset beyond Lecompton; signs will direct you to the Kansas Capitols Trail, and the visual fun will continue nearly to Topeka. For those a bit more adventurous, launch a canoe into the Kaw River to gain the view from an explorer’s perspective. There are several boat ramps between Lawrence and Topeka on this National Water Trail System watercourse.

LOOKING FOR LEAVES You will see cottonwood, ash, hackberry and gum trees turning bright yellow, their leaves sifting through the autumn breeze. Maples and several species of oaks will be clothed in countless shades of red. Smooth sumac trees line the road in scarlet, while their cousin, poison ivy, will appear to set the lingering green trees on fire, with vines spiraling upward around trunks and branches to the very top of the canopy. Osage orange trees will bounce softball-sized fruits into your path, while black walnuts will crunch under your tires, spitting gooey hulls in every direction.At this time of year, Catalpas and sycamores compete to see which can produce the largest leaves, and shaggy eastern red cedars add a dark green hue to the mix.

Where in

KANSAS?

GET OUTSIDE MAPLE LEAF FESTIVAL October 15–16, Baldwin City Since 1958, Baldwin City has hosted its popular Maple Leaf Festival with a variety of family activities, music, craft displays and unique food offerings. Don’t miss the historic landmark, Signal Oak, which is just north of town at the top of Simmons’ Hill; it played a vital role in the pioneer settlement of the area. mapleleaffestival.com FLORAKANSAS: THE GREAT PLAINS PLANT BAZAAR September 9–11, Hesston Kansas is home to several outstanding arboretums, which provide interpretive information on woody species with the added bonus of displaying vast arrays of showy, brilliant, fall wildflowers. The Dyck Arboretum in Hesston promotes the re-establishment of native vegetation and hosts FloraKansas, a sale of prairie plants, each April and September for you to grow in your home landscape. dyckarboretum.org ERNIE MILLER NATURE CENTER The Ernie Miller Nature Center in Johnson County is a distinctive venue that offers day hikes along wooded pathways, and cultural, historical and educational programs for all ages. The friendly staff is happy to share their knowledge of the natural history of trees and other flora. There are also live animal displays and a gift shop at this facility. erniemiller.com

According to the 2015 Farmers’ Almanac, the peak fall foliage dates were October 5­–21 for northern Kansas; October 12–28 for southern Kansas.

PHOTOGRAPHS Shutterstock

this season

this season

By Liz Weslander

ALAN BRUMMELL Phoenix Gallery 825 Massachusetts St. Lawrence (785) 843-0080

DANNY MEISINGER Spinning Earth Pottery 102 S. Elm St. Gardner (844) 890-8191

HASKELL INDIAN ART MARKET September 10–11 Haskell Indian Nations University, Lawrence Native-American artists from all over the country gather at this outdoor market to sell handcrafted jewelry, pottery, paintings and other original artwork.

The weekend also includes a pow-wow with traditional dances and music, as well as fry bread vendors and Haskell student booths.

PHOTOGRAPH Doug Stremel

CIDER DAYS FALL FESTIVAL September 24–25 Kansas Expo Center, Topeka This annual shopping extravaganza combines 250 craft vendors with a celebration of Kansas history and plenty of fun activities for the family. Spend your shopping breaks enjoying fresh-pressed cider, live entertainment, historic reenactments and more. $7 at the gate; $6 in advance.

From left, works by Danny Meisinger and Alan Brummel

Where in

KANSAS?

Alan Brummel’s pitchers are bisque fired, glazed and then glaze fired for 16 hours in a kiln at 2,400 degrees Fahrenheit.

The result is an extremely durable and beautiful vessel.

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

A

handcrafted ceramic pitcher is a lovely way to add some flourish to your standard beverage service. Here, two seasoned Kansas ceramicists offer some advice on what to look for as you shop for that perfect pitcher to impress guests this fall.

EASY POUR Danny Meisinger, owner of Spinning Earth Pottery in Gardner, creates pitchers that he describes as Greek in form. Although all of his pitchers—which tend to be tall with long, graceful spouts—are technically functional, some of them measure as tall as four feet, so his shorter ones are more practical for serving iced tea or sangria.

Meisinger says that the heart of a good pitcher is, naturally, the spout, which should handle liquids smoothly at both the beginning and end of the pour. A spout that points upward at about 45 degrees, he says, will typically pour well, but testing a pitcher before purchasing is also a fine idea—and completely acceptable at his gallery, so don’t be afraid to ask.

“If someone wants to see how a pitcher works, they can take it into the bathroom in the gallery and fill it with water,” Meisinger says.“We want them to be happy with it.”

13 FALL 2016

Pitcher Perfect

HANDLING THE VESSEL Alan Brummell is a Lawrence-based potter who has been creating functional stoneware and porcelain pitchers for more than 40 years.While some pitchers are for decorative purposes only, Brummell recommends anyone shopping for a ceramic pitcher to use should look for one with a handle that is thick enough to withstand some weight. A “thumb grip” at the top of the handle means that the pitcher will be more comfortable to grab and easier to handle, Brummell says.

“It’s also important to find something that is not heavy,” he says.“If it’s heavy empty, it will be difficult to hold when it’s full.”

Brummell’s pitchers, which can be found at Phoenix Gallery in Lawrence, often feature patterns inspired by nature, with critter designs like dragonflies, frogs, fish and honeybees. He also has a series of Kansas-themed pieces adorned with shocks of wheat.

shop.

this season

By KANSAS! magazine staff

sampler.

Kansas High Points MOUNT SUNFLOWER Maneuvering miles of dirt roads and crossing a cattle guard to get into Ed Harold’s cattle pasture are just part of the feat to reach the state’s most altitudinous spot—Mount Sunflower.

The site was designated as Kansas’ highest point in 1961 by the US. Geological Survey. At 4,039 feet above sea level, find a rugged tribute to Kansas,featuring mementos from previous visitors and a sunflower made of railroad spikes.

Getting There: Travel three miles west of Weskan in Wallace County on US Highway 40, then 11 miles north, and one mile west.

40TH PARALLEL MARKER Located in the Loess bluffs of the Glacial Hills is the Sixth Principal Meridian survey marker. You will want a firm grip on the railing as you make the 150-feet ascent up the wooded hillside to the point of interest.The cast-iron obelisk that bears the names of Kansas and Nebraska will be surrounded by the golds and reds of autumn along the Missouri River—a breathtaking sight.

Getting There: Take Kansas Highway 7, the Glacial Hills Scenic Byway, northwest of White Cloud and park at the pullout just before the “Welcome to Nebraska” sign; the trailhead is 50 yards north.

WELLS OVERLOOK People have been stairstepping to the top of the Wells Overlook tower since the 1970s for breathtaking views of the fall foliage over the Wakarusa Valley in Douglas County between Lawrence and Baldwin City.

Getting There: The popular spot is three miles south of 31st Street in Lawrence on U.S. 59, then ¾ mile east on N1000 Road.

OBSERVATION TOWER A quarter-mile west of the Maxwell Wildlife Refuge visitor center near Canton you can climb 30 steps up a metal lookout tower to see an expansive view of the Smoky Hills rolling countryside.

Getting There: Maxwell is six miles north of Canton on 27th Avenue, and then 1¼ miles west on Pueblo.

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

P

ut your head in the clouds at these high points in Kansas. With no mountains in the way, the horizon appears endless across several physiographic regions—giving you a view unlike any other.

PHOTOGRAPH Doug Stremel

DON’T MISS

Where in

KANSAS?

WHITE CLOUD FLEA MARKET September 2–4 Find more than 100 vendors in downtown White Cloud.

Vendors feature a variety of wares and treasures. Runs from 7 a.m.–5 p.m. facebook.com/ whitecloudkansasfleamarket

MOUNTAIN MAN RENDEZVOUS October 7–9 Maxwell Wildlife Refuge near Canton hosts fur traders, trappers, flintknappers and blacksmiths, as well as demonstrations of prairie life in the 1800s. rendezvous-country.com

If you’re looking for other scenic views, travel one of the 12 Kansas byways this fall. Find more information on points of interest and itinerary suggestions at ksbyways.org.

FALL 2016

15 SPARKS FLEA MARKET September 1–4 Find vendors selling antiques and collectibles in Sparks, just 11 miles south of White Cloud on Kansas Highway 7. sparksantiquesand collectibles.com

culture.

By Cecilia Harris

Celebrating the Silent Era

L

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

augh at the slapstick humor of a talented native Kansas comedian as you step back in time to the silent-film era during the Buster Keaton Celebration, September 23–24, in Iola.

Keaton was born in 1895 in nearby Piqua as his parents, who were vaudeville performers, traveled across Kansas in a medicine show with illusionist Harry Houdini. Buster was starring in their act by age three, and thus began a long career in entertainment.

In the 1920s, he pioneered silent comedies as a notable creative director and film star known for a deadpan expression and humorous, exaggerated physical movements.

“We celebrate the genius of Buster Keaton and all those who dedicated their lives to early and silent films,” says Susan Raines, executive director of the Thomas H. Bowlus Fine Arts and Cultural Center, which hosts the event.

The celebration combines entertainment and education through the showing of silent motion pictures with live musical accompaniment and short films, presentations on Keaton’s work, and a tour of the Buster Keaton Museum in Piqua where movie posters, photographs and other artifacts are displayed.

This year’s theme is “Buster Keaton and the Wild West.” The feature film, the imaginative Go West, was written and directed by Keaton, who also starred in the 1925 picture. Out West and Moonshine—two 1918 short comedies in which Keaton performed with silent comedy pioneer Roscoe “Fatty”Arbuckle—are on the list of movies also slated.

Notable speakers scheduled include Frank Scheide, from the University of Arkansas, presenting “A Disturbing Legacy: The Treatment of Native Americans in Westerns”; Martha Jett, film historian, discussing “Slips, Trips and Falls: Stunt People”; and Scott Eyman, author, editor and film critic, on “Buster Keaton and the Landscape of the West.”

“Our speakers are all recognized as experts in their field,” Raines says.“They really get in-depth with what these silent films mean to us today.” bowluscenter.org

FALL 2016

16

Where in

KANSAS?

CATCH OTHER KANSAS FLICKS THIS FALL GORDON PARKS CELEBRATION Nov. 5–6, Fort Scott Learn more about this native Kansan who was the first African American to direct a major Hollywood production, The Learning Tree, based on his autobiographical novel and filmed in his hometown, Fort Scott. The filmmaker also was a world-renowned photographer for Vogue and Life magazines who wrote musical compositions, poetry and a ballet. This year the celebration at the Gordon Parks Center includes speakers on Parks and his work and a showing of some Parks’ films, including The Learning Tree and Shaft. gordonparkscenter.org KANSAS INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL Nov. 4–10, Overland Park Watch documentary, narrative and animated independent films created by regional and national filmmakers at the Glenwood Arts Theatre. “It’s truly a film lover’s or purist’s delight because we play over a hundred movies in a week,” says festival president, Brian Mossman. “You have a chance to see the movie and then you get to ask any questions you may have to the filmmaker directly.” Enjoy short films and more, produced by some who have called Kansas home. kansasfilm.com

See four films for free at the Buster Keaton Celebration; the Friday and Saturday evening screenings are free.

Films begin at 7:30.

PHOTOGRAPH Doug Stremel

this season

this season

I

n May 2016, the natural beauty of Northwest Kansas was formally recognized and became even more of a destination with the addition of the Kansas Land and Sky Scenic Byway.

This newly designated byway is an 88-mile, two-lane roadway running through acres of changing landscape that features agricultural operations, as well as scenic views of western Kansas’ countryside.

The byway passes through three counties—Wallace, Sherman and Cheyenne—and four communities—Sharon Springs, Goodland,Wheeler and St. Francis.

Attractions along the byway that many travelers will find interesting include massive wheat farms, hunting ranches such as the Kuhrt Ranch in Edson, the unique topography of the Arikaree Breaks and even a giant depiction of Van Gogh’s Sunflowers, part of Canadian artist Cameron Cross’ international Van Gogh Project.

THE LAND AND SKY SCENIC BYWAY

by the numbers

• This route is divided among three counties:

Wallace County 16% Cheyenne County 50% Sherman County 34%

• 88 miles long

PHOTOGRAPH Doug Stremel

• Travels along US Highway 27 and US Highway 40

Where in

KANSAS?

EXPLORE LAND AND SKY COUNTRY THERE IS PLENTY TO SEE AND DO ALONG THE LAND AND SKY SCENIC BYWAY. HERE ARE A FEW OF OUR FAVORITES. CARNEGIE ARTS CENTER Goodland A facility that supports all art forms, Carnegie Arts Center is home to monthly exhibits, art classes, lectures, recitals and theater performances. goodlandarts.org ST. FRANCIS WILDLIFE AREA St. Francis This grasslands area bisected by the Republican River is home to a variety of animal wildlife, including year-round white-tailed deer, mule deer and Rio Grande wild turkeys. ksoutdoors.com ST. FRANCIS MOTORCYCLE MUSEUM St. Francis Find an exhibit of nearly 100 vintage motorcycles from many manufacturers—including Harley Davidson and Indian—as well as history and memorabilia. stfrancismotorcyclemuseum.org FORT WALLACE MUSEUM Wallace The museum site encompasses four historic buildings and the modern museum building. Visitors will find, among other things, a variety of community history displays, restored Conestoga wagons, local fossils, and the extensive Floris and Viola Weiser collection of Indian Wars artifacts. ftwallace.com

Without stopping, it takes about one hour and 30 minutes to travel the 88 miles of the Land and Sky Scenic Byway.

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

Kansas Land and Sky Scenic Byway

ride.

17 FALL 2016

By KANSAS! magazine staff

this season

reasons.

By Cecilia Harris

REASONS we love Kansas

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

We search the state, near and far, to find reasons to love our Sunflower State.

FALL 2016

18

PLOW IN Rusty Tractor, Kensington Order an International Harvester at The Rusty Tractor in Kensington and you’ll bite into a beef patty topped with bacon, American cheese, barbecue sauce and onion rings. Most of the sandwiches, wraps, and burgers on this restaurant’s menu are named for—you guessed it—tractor companies. Other specialties include hand-cut rib eye, KC strip and sirloin steaks.

“The one thing we sell more of than anything else is our chicken fried steak,” says manager Tim Riley. Ask about the daily special. rustytractorkensington.com

SCARECROWS, PUMPKINS AND MORE Granny Mae’s Pumpkin Patch, Dorrance Hop aboard the trolley at Granny Mae’s Pumpkin Patch near Dorrance and listen to live musicians as you ride through Scarecrow Meadow, a village of scarecrows doing ordinary things.“There’s two entire baseball teams of little scarecrow boys playing each other, there’s a mailman, there’s a little kitchen set up where she’s cooking,” says owner Tonya Buehler. Pick from thousands of pumpkins and gourds in six unique patches with names like Munchkin Land (full of mini-pumpkins) and Full Moon Farm (featuring only white pumpkins). After the tour, munch on free roasted peanuts as you relax around the fire pit. Open Saturdays and Sundays from the last weekend in September through October. grannymaes.com

this season

Learn the heart-wrenching tale of Mattie Blanchard, whose husband murdered their five children with an ax, as you trek between gravestones in the moonlight during Talking Tombstones on October 15 at the Eastside Cemetery in Hutchinson.

Actors from Stage 9 dress in period clothing as they portray the departed (actors use obituaries, news articles and other research to provide insight into each historical character).“I always say that this brings someone back to life for one more night and gives a voice to events in the past,” says Peggy Livingston, Stage 9 president and historian.

Stage9hutch.com

REASONS

we love Kansas

GET SPOOKED Haunted Hotel, Dodge City Roam rooms of terror only if you dare at The Depot Theater Company’s Haunted Hotel event every October weekend in Dodge City. Based on a new theme each year, a creative script carries a creepy storyline from room to room, where the theater’s actors portraying the characters often improvise while interacting with visitors.

“The biggest draw is that this is a professional actor level of haunted house,” says Mark Vierthaler, theater company member.

“We bring in actors, set designers, and tech people to create this immersive theater. ” depottheaterco.com

IN TUNE Orchestra on the Oregon Trail, Alcove Springs Park Bask in the picturesque Alcove Springs Park near Blue Rapids on September 4 as you sit in a meadow listening to the Topeka Symphony Orchestra perform patriotic music including Battle Hymn of the Republic and film scores from movies like Star Wars: The Force Awakens. The stage is set against the backdrop of a rocky cliff not far from the spring that provided water to pioneers camping overnight on their journeys west in covered wagons.

“Alcove Springs is a beautiful setting; it’s very rustic,” says Brad Ekiss, president of the Marshall County Arts Cooperative, which sponsors Orchestra on the Oregon Trail. Several activities precede the concert, including wagon rides, historical presentations, cowboy poetry, other musical performances, and guided nature walks geared to interests such as history, flora and photography. ooot.org

Send your “Reasons We Love Kansas” to ksreasons@sunflowerpub.com or to Reasons, KANSAS!, 1020 S. Kansas Ave., Suite 200, Topeka, KS 66612.

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

Watch Millie, a female chimpanzee, paint a picture during Art Gone Wild September 17 at the Rolling Hills Zoo, Salina.“She’s very particular about what brushes she uses and how she paints,” says Linda Henderson, the zoo’s director of development and marketing. Millie selects one brush to paint an ostrich egg and a different brush to paint on canvas. Among other animals putting brush—or paw or hoof—to canvas are giraffes, painted wild dogs and rhinoceros. In addition, human plein air painters will take inspiration from the surroundings; dancers and musicians will perform; and children can participate in art activities during the event. rollinghillswildlife.com

BEYOND THE GRAVE Talking Tombstones, Hutchinson

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PHOTOGRAPHS (CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT) Shutterstock, Rolling Hills Zoo, Shutterstock (4)

ARTSY ANIMALS Art Gone Wild, Salina

reasons.

this season LITTLE BALKAN DAYS September 2-4 / Pittsburg A celebration of southeast Kansas’ Balkan ethnic heritage with food and music. littlebalkansfestival.org KANSAS CITY RENAISSANCE FESTIVAL September 3–October 16 / Bonner Springs Celebrate the 40th anniversary of this medieval-themed festival with jousts, stage shows and king-sized turkey legs. Huzzah! facebook.com/KansasCityRenFest

events.

EVENTS fall 2016

KANSAS STATE FAIR September 9-18 / Hutchinson Prize goats, cotton candy, carnival rides and you. A Kansas tradition celebrating agriculture, industry and family fun. kansastatefair.com KANSAS BOOK FESTIVAL September 10 / Topeka Book lovers gather at the Kansas Capitol Building for the 6th annual event featuring Kansas authors, readings and an award ceremony for the 2016 Kansas Notable Book honorees. kansasbookfestival.com KONZA PRAIRIE VISITORS’ DAY September 24 / Manhattan Free guided tours open up research areas and behind-the-scenes aspects of these lands dedicated to preserving natural Kansas. ksu.edu/konza RACE THE CHASE September 24 / Strong City A group of races across the Kansas Flint Hills, including the signature 50-kilometer competition. runreg.com

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VOLGA GERMAN SOCIETY OKTOBERFEST September 30–October 2 / Hays Celebrate central Kansas’ rich Volga-German heritage with polka dancing, crafts and, of course, beer. goforthaysstate.com HAND CORN SHUCKING CONTEST October 1 / Atchison Not yet an Olympic event, but full of competitive drama as the county’s best hand-shuckers gather for the high-noon showdown. visitatchison.com

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INTERNATIONAL LINEMEN’S RODEO October 15 / Agricultural Hall of Fame, Bonner Springs Pole-climbing and rescue-scenario competitions will determine the world’s best linemen (or women). aghalloffame.com

PHOTOGRAPH KDWPT

AMERICAN ROYAL WORLD SERIES OF BARBECUE October 26-30 / Kansas Speedway, Kansas City Smoke teams compete for international bragging rights, and we have the chance to taste it all. americanroyal.com CEDAR COVE PROWL-O-WEEN October 29 / Louisburg The tenth-annual event featuring educational tours and Halloween events to support the Cedar Cove Feline Conservatory’s mission of preserving endangered large cats. saveoursiberians.org

FIND MORE EVENTS AT TRAVELKS.COM All events are subject to change.

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a city hills in the

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

Nestled in the Flint Hills, Manhattan offers an anything-goes atmosphere with a side of adventure

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City Park

By Megan Saunders Photography by Michael Henry and David Mayes

Enjoy Coco Bolos’ specialty, “loud food, spicy music,” if you’re in the mood for New Mexican cuisine.

Head downtown to shop for a few souvenirs. Stop at Gatherings at 3 Thirteen if you’re looking for a decorative accessory or home accent.

Be sure to start one of your mornings at Arrow Coffee Co. The first drink is on the house!

Shop around, 2 p.m.

Begin with a little leisurely shopping. You’ll find a variety of local shops tucked into every corner of Manhattan’s revitalized downtown.

Add some unique décor to your home with a piece from Gatherings at 3 Thirteen, or browse beautiful European-made housewares at BoxLab. Downtown Manhattan offers temptations for everyone, from yarn and party supplies to cocktail dresses and camping gear.

Explore the Flint Hills, 4 p.m.

Take a short walk to the Flint Hills Discovery Center. While the exhibits at the facility are great for children to explore, adults will also enjoy learning the story of the beautiful Flint Hills that

BLUEMONT HOTEL The limestone and glass building is a new favorite among visitors, thanks to its upscale environment and proximity to the K-State campus and Aggieville.

HILTON GARDEN INN Featuring plush guestrooms and free parking, this hotel is located within easy walking distance of shops and restaurants downtown.

surround Manhattan. Beginning in September, visit the temporary exhibit “Going Home: Hidden Histories of the Flint Hills.”

Spice it up, 6 p.m.

Coco Bolos, located in Aggieville, Manhattan’s entertainment district, lives up to its slogan, “loud food, spicy music.” Enjoy flavors from the Gulf Coast and Southern New Mexico, straight from the open-exhibit kitchen. The Tijuana Trainwreck—layers of corn tortillas, machaca chicken, chili verde, chili con carne, bolo beans, Monterey jack cheese, roasted corn and sour cream on top—is a local favorite.

Kick back, 8 p.m.

Since you’re already in Aggieville, it’s definitely worth it to take in a little nightlife fun. Mingle at Auntie Mae’s Parlor, a former speakeasy that opened beneath a plumbing shop during Prohibition.

SATURDAY

THE HOMEPLACE AT PRAIRIEWOOD RETREAT Plan your stay in advance to snag one of Prairiewood’s two exquisite suites, perfect for couples. Prairiewood is located near Liquid Art Winery.

Get energized, 8 a.m.

Arrow Coffee Company’s beans are purchased from Messenger Coffee in Kansas City, which works with coffee farmers worldwide.

Owner Ben Motley says this focus on people starts with the farmers and ends with the baristas smiling at customers. “From the people who get up before dawn and bake pastries, or spend months studying espresso before they even

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

FRIDAY

WHERE TO STAY

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n Manhattan, Midwest charm meets big ideas.

Your weekend is whatever you make it—heaven on a fork, local art, dancing the night away, or simply soaking up the soft beauty of the Flint Hills that surround “The Little Apple.” Regardless of what you choose to do, you’re sure to discover why the community is dubbed a family, and you’ll probably leave with more friends than you had when you arrived.

A good 36 hours in town is all you need, so we’ve provided you with an itinerary. Come Monday, however, don’t blame us when you need to burn a sick day to recuperate.

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Linear Trail

touch a machine, to the customers who keep us in business—they all push us toward being better.”

First-time customers are in for a treat as the first drink is on the house.

dishes, Grier adds. “Harry’s soul is woven into the history of Downtown Manhattan,” she says. “Within the ornate, vintage Wareham hotel building, our team delivers a modern dining experience with a hyper-focus on our guests and a passion for handcrafting fresh, premium dishes.”

Take a walk, 9 a.m.

Enjoy a beautiful fall morning on Linear Park Trail. Choose a section from the nine-mile trail that leads you through tree-covered pathways alongside the Kansas River or simply enjoy a new perspective of the scenic Flint Hills.

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Artful encounters, 10 a.m.

If the weather calls you indoors, enjoy regional artwork at Kansas State University’s Beach Museum of Art. Four permanent galleries are devoted to visual art, and new, thought-provoking exhibits rotate through the museum. No wallet required— admission is free.

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Pack the purple, time varies If you happen to be in town on a Wildcat game day, you don’t need a ticket to experience the excitement. At K-State, tailgating is an art form. Park in one of the lots adjacent to Bill Snyder Family Stadium and meet up with friends for grilled delicacies, lawn games, and a hearty dose of purple pride.

Have a sip, 4 p.m.

For a little more imbibing, Liquid Art Winery and Estate’s hilltop tasting room offers breathtaking 360-degree views of Manhattan and the Flint Hills. Danielle and David Tegtmeier opened the 10-acre winery in spring of 2016 and added 7,000 grapevines. “Guests will be able to taste a flight of wine or hard cider, or buy it by the glass or bottle,” Danielle says.

Worthwhile indulgence, 7 p.m.

It’s should be illegal to visit Manhattan and skip out on Harry’s. Andrea Grier, Harry’s operating partner, says the restaurant is known for food so divine that you’ll taste it in your dreams; try the bruschetta or filet royale, two of Harry’s signature

LOOKING FOR MORE? While this is a busy sampling of Manhattan culture for a weekend trip, it’s only the tip of the iceberg. From local breweries to fall craft shows, there’s so much more to discover.

Visit manhattan. org to learn more.

Lock into adventure, 9 p.m.

You’ll need that delicious fuel for the mental exercises ahead at Locked Manhattan, the city’s first escape-room adventure. Zachary Droge, co-founder, says it blends together mystery, problem-solving and adrenaline-inducing stories. “It’s a chance to escape reality and immerse yourself into what feels like a movie,” he adds.

You and a group of friends have one hour to unlock a room filled with puzzles that will lead you to your eventual escape.

Wind down, 10:30 p.m.

If you need a nightcap, wander to 4 Olives, to experience its standout cocktail program that mixes creativity with unexpected flavors. Grab a seat at the bar to watch the skilled bartenders practice their craft, whether that includes an egg white or flaming orange peel.

SUNDAY A hearty breakfast, 10 a.m.

Meet The Chef, breakfast lovers. This local favorite serves down-home dishes that keep the brightly decorated space packed from open to close. Sink your fork into gooey crab cake eggs Benedict, or sip on a “manmosa,” made from light beer and orange juice.

Victory lap, noon End your weekend with a stroll through K-State’s beautiful campus. With some of the prettiest fall foliage around and historic limestone buildings, you’ll feel like an undergrad again. After all, you know how to plan one heck of a weekend in The Little Apple. manhattan.org

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KANSAS! MAGAZINE

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Tailgating, Liquid Art Winery, Linear Trail, Kansas State University Beach Museum of Art, Harry’s, 4 Olives

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KANSAS! MAGAZINE

films heartland in the

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Wichita is becoming the premier spot in Kansas for independent filmmakers, thanks to the Tallgrass Film Festival

Filming Double Digits: The Story of a Neighborhood Movie Star

By Amy Bickel

Photography by Harland Schuster

Justin Johnson, of Los Angeles, spent three years working on a film about a Wichita native and low-budget, amateur filmmaker, R.G. Miller.

The film was introduced to Tallgrass Film Festival in 2015 and it won the Best First Feature award.

JUST LIKE TELLURIDE Timothy Gruver had lofty ambitions for his hometown of Wichita. He wanted it to become a film festival destination—just like Telluride.

The small Colorado town is known for

JUSTIN JOHNSON CITY: Los Angeles FILM: Double Digits: The Story of a Neighborhood Movie Star, 2015 screening.

WHAT IT IS ABOUT: Richard “R.G.” Miller creates impossible blockbusters from his tiny studio apartment in Wichita, Kansas.

ABOUT TALLGRASS: “Every festival I have gone to, I was lucky the festival organizers were very hospitable. But no one came close to how warm and comforting, how generous the Tallgrass folks are. This isn’t just a little festival.

It is a very well-run, wellrespected festival. I just love the spirit of Wichita.”

its annual film festival. Gruver didn’t see why Kansas’ largest city couldn’t host a similar event.

Gruver had a passion for filmmaking, says Meadow-Conner. He attended film school at Brigham Young University, often sneaking into Sundance Film Festival parties. He eventually worked for Dreamworks Animation and for a few California film festivals before returning to Kansas in 2002. He launched Tallgrass the following year.

Gruver died in 2005, but Tallgrass still emulates his vision. “He knew what it was going to become,” Meadow-Conner says, who was asked by Gruver to come from Los Angeles and help produce the first festival. “The whole point of the festival is to showcase the best of independent films from around the world. You won’t see most of these films in the theater here. This gives you the in-theater communal experience.”

Jo Anne Lofland and her husband, Art Busch, have attended nearly every Tallgrass Festival. She says Tallgrass has become a premier Wichita event.

In 2015, MovieMaker Magazine named it one of the top 50 film festivals in North America worth the entry fee. With screenings and events throughout the year, Tallgrass also provides more than just a festival every fall.

“It gives you a feel for the amazing work that is being done that doesn’t always get the recognition,” says Lofland, who takes time off from the law firm where she works to see as many screenings as possible.

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ost people have heard of Sundance and Cannes Film Festival—two of the world’s premier film festivals. But here in America’s heartland, movie fanatics don’t need to travel to Utah or France to watch the latest independent films.

Wichita is quickly becoming a hub for filmmakers and movie fans. The Tallgrass Film Festival enters its 14th year in October, and there is nothing small or quaint about it.

Last year’s film festival drew more than 100 filmmakers and 15,000 people.

Over five days, Tallgrass-goers have the opportunity to view 200 of the year’s extraordinary independent releases—feature films and documentaries to shorts and animation. There are also VIP events, educational opportunities and parties, showcased at Wichita’s best attractions.

This year’s off-screen events are located at Botanica, Union Station, the Wichita Art Museum and Candela at the Lux, to name a few, says Tallgrass Film Association executive director Lela Meadow-Conner “Tallgrass is garnering the title of being a cool festival and Wichita being a cool town to visit,” Meadow-Conner says.

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

R.G. Miller directs a cast of dolls and action figures in “Blockbuster”-style feature films.

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BEYOND THE POPCORN By early summer, organizers were busy sifting through the 2,000 film submissions—each year, the number of submitted films grows—from 40 different countries. And then they get hard to work preparing special off-screen events.

Unlike traditional theater settings, Tallgrass gives viewers a chance to socialize and learn about filmmaking at roundtable discussions.

“When you get to watch the movie with someone who made the movie, and they spent their blood, sweat and tears making that film, there is no other experience like it,” MeadowConner says. “You get the opportunity to ask them about the passion they had. You can discuss the film and process it in another way than just getting up and leaving the theater.

“That is not something you get at the multiplex or on the couch.”

“The most special thing about Tallgrass is the Midwest hospitality … I love coming to regional festivals like Tallgrass because it’s a place where you can truly connect with the local film enthusiasts.”

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

—EMILY TING

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Wandering off the beaten path can sometimes lead to treasures, points out Justin Johnson, who produces web and commercial content in Los Angeles. Most Kansans hadn’t heard of R.G. Miller, a 50-something Wichita native and amateur filmmaker who has spent his life making movies.

Johnson, who has worked for YouTube, discovered Miller while he was working for a startup in New York called “Next New Networks.” Miller submitted a trailer for one of his first Internet Art films to the filmmaking network that Johnson co-founded called Indy Mogul. Johnson spent three years working on Double Digits: The Story of a Neighborhood Movie Star.

Last year, he introduced Miller’s intimate story to Tallgrass viewers, and the film won Best First Feature. “You are watching this downtown and you are seeing it with 300 people and getting all this applause,” Johnson says. “Then to have them come up and say they enjoyed the film, that is what makes it worth it.”

JOHN WILDMAN CITY: Dallas FILM: Ladies of the House, 2014 screening.

WHAT IT IS ABOUT: The horror film is about guys who follow the wrong dancer home from a club and find themselves trapped in a home of cannibals—and likely next on the menu.

ABOUT TALLGRASS: “What is really great is people are fascinated and curious about you and what you have done. It is why Tallgrass is an amazing conduit for the filmmakers and the film fans.

“As far as filmmakers are concerned, it is about the best introduction anyone could have to Kansas that you could possibly imagine.”

EMILY TING CITY: Los Angeles FILM: Already Tomorrow in Hong Kong, 2015 screening. Also involved in other films shown at Tallgrass: The Big Bad Swim, The Kitchen, and Man from Reno.

WHAT IT IS ABOUT: An attraction forms when a Chinese-American girl visiting Hong Kong for the first time meets an American expat who shows her the way, but timing may not quite be on their side.

ABOUT TALLGRASS: “The most special thing about Tallgrass is its Midwest hospitality. I’ve been to much bigger film festivals before that may be better in terms of getting your film sold or reviewed by the trades, but I love coming to regional festivals like Tallgrass because it’s a place where you can truly connect with the local film enthusiasts.

“Most independent films don’t have much of a theatrical life outside of the film festival circuit. … So really, the only way for an indie film fan in Wichita to see an independent film is to go to a film festival like Tallgrass. The programmers do a great job of watching thousands of hours of films to curate a program of topquality independent cinema for Wichita.”

taste of Kansas

TASTE OF KANSAS

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

Artisan Breads Across Kansas, small-batch bakers such as Sharon Entz are creating bread loaves rich in history, texture and taste

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By Meta Newell West

Photography by Deborah Walker

Loaves of light rye cool after coming out of the oven at Crust & Crumb Co. Bakery in Newton.

Baker Sharon Entz is concerned about what goes into bread, but also how the loaves, such as these baguettes, appear.

“Every loaf is a sculpture,” says Entz.

“Artisan breads are made from humble ingredients— flour, water and salt.”

—SHARON ENTZ

These small bakeries also play an important role in their communities.

According to Secretary of Agriculture Jackie McClaskey, “independent bakeries play a valuable role in Kansas communities by providing local food options as well as supporting growth of the local economy.”

Each bakery has a unique story, but all reflect years of dedication and training.

Entz, for example, earned a degree in milling science at Kansas State University and for a decade managed flour mills all over the country. Her professional baking began at the San Francisco Baking Institute, followed by a hands-on internship at Madison Sourdough in Madison, Wisconsin.

“I learned you have to shape thousands of loaves before you can consistently achieve a really good shape and be fast enough to produce enough loaves for a bakery,” she says. Despite having mastered the art of shaping the ideal loaf, she is still awed with the process and says, “every loaf is a sculpture, a piece of art.”

Since opening Crust & Crumb in January 2013, Entz has been on a rigorous schedule. On Tuesdays through Fridays, she begins baking from her location in

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n her five-acre plot of land near Newton, Sharon Entz is cultivating a patch of Turkey Red Winter Wheat. This is a crop deeply connected to the state’s history. Carried over as seeds by Volga German immigrants in the 1870s, the Turkey Red Wheat varieties flourished on Kansas soil and led to the region’s reputation as the “Wheat State.”

But it is not only the heritage of this wheat that attracted Entz to plant it. An artisan baker and owner of Crust & Crumb Bakery, Entz knows that Turkey Red can be baked into old-style breads with rich and complex flavors. Those types of breads are typically preservative free and contain no fats or added sugar; they are shaped by hand and baked in small batches; many are baked using steam to produce their typically crispy golden-brown crust, and they are made using age-old recipes and techniques.

“Artisan breads are made from humble ingredients—flour, water and salt,” says Entz. These breads are low leavened, sometimes using yeast, but more often they begin with natural sourdough starters.

There’s nothing fast about the process; instead the breads are slow-fermented, which leads to a depth of flavor not found in mass-produced bread.

Entz’s interest in baking traditional breads with traditional wheat reflects a boom of small-batch Kansas bakeries producing artisan breads, including crisp-crusted baguettes, rustic ciabatta and tangy sourdough loaves.

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

Entz keeps baker’s hours to make her bread, with work days beginning at 4 a.m.

taste of Kansas

A great marketing tool for your business.

TO ADVERTISE, CONTACT

Joanne Morgan

(785) 832-7264 / jmorgan@sunflowerpub.com

Come PLAYwith us in Marion County

Fishing and boating Hunting and hiking Camping and picnicking Marion County Economic Development www.growmarioncounty.com | 620-382-8830

downtown Newton at 4 a.m. Once the first breads are in the oven, she begins preparing for the next day—mixing large quantities of dough that will be shaped and then fermented overnight in a large walk-in retarder (a controlled-humidity refrigerator that slows fermentation and prevents drying)—and preparing sourdough starter. “I must plan 72 hours in advance to make sure I have enough starter,” Entz says. In addition, she works on pastries, including croissants and other seasonal specialties.

On Saturdays, baking begins just after midnight as about 1,000 loaves and pastries must be ready for the Newton Farmer’s Market and Wichita’s Kansas Grown and Oldtown markets.

In off seasons, when markets are closed, Entz opens the door of her commercial kitchen and allows customers to pick and choose from tables loaded with freshly baked items.

Despite a very busy schedule, Entz finds time to try new recipes and to tend her small crop of grain. “If all goes as planned, after harvesting and milling this year’s crop I’ll begin baking with some of my own flour,” she explains. “My goal is to grow, mill and sell flour to other artisan bakeries in Kansas. I’d also like to experiment with growing and milling other grains— rye, buckwheat, ancient grains and older wheat varieties.”

Workweeks of 80 or more hours and days that begin before dawn are nothing new to Entz, who was raised on a wheat farm near Peabody. “I grew up fascinated with making things from start to finish, the more complicated, the better,” she says. “I enjoy the hard work of being a baker; it’s much better than sitting at a desk— and healthier, too.” Another unexpected reward that bakers often cite is being part of a community, one that appreciates really good bread and willingly supports their endeavors.

Kansas Wheat Commission representative Cindy Falk takes it one step further as she comments on wheat farmers and bakers of the state: “Kansas grown. Kansas good. Kansas wheat producers take a lot of pride in what they produce, and in return, baking a quality bread product shows customers that Kansans are giving the world their best.”

A BAKER’S DOZEN

Listing of Artisan Bread Bakeries in Kansas

BONITO MICHOACAN BAKERY 1200 Minnesota Ave. / Kansas City (913) 233-0010 This bakery, open since 2011, offers traditional Mexican breads including crusty French rolls called bolillos, and sandwich rolls called telera, as well as sweet breads, including cuernos, pan dulce and conchas.

BOURBON & BAKER 312 Poyntz Ave. / Manhattan (785) 320-4959 The bakery portion of this business, in operation since 2013, supplies breads and pastries for Bourbon & Baker and Harry’s. Traditional Midwest-style breads are available by special order including buttermilk loaves, caramelized onion bread, honey wheat loaves and hot dog buns.

CRUST & CRUMB CO. 507B N. Main St. (alley entrance) / Newton (316) 212-2942 Open since 2013, the bakery produces artisan breads and pastries that are sold at farmers’ markets and area retailers.

HEN HOUSE MARKET 6900 W. 135th St. / Overland Park (913) 685-8400 Located in a grocery store, since 1996 this bakery has been handcrafting farm to market breads: French baguettes, Italian loaves, and several varieties of sourdough as well as rye and wheat loaves.

IBIS BAKERY 12817 W. 87th St. Parkway / Lenexa (913) 669-9883 In operation since 2014, the bakery specializes in organic pastries, and breads that are naturally leavened. Frenchinspired bread selections include country and cranberry walnut loaves, sprouted rye and sprouted quinoa-kamut loaves.

JOHN’S PITA BAKERY 5616 E Lincoln St. / Wichita (316) 927-2277 Specializing in pita bread that is sold in restaurants and grocery stores, this bakery traces its roots back to 1991.

PAK HALAL INTERNATIONAL FOODS 2259 W. 87th Parkway St. / Lenexa (913) 599-0700 This grocery store featuring Middle Eastern foods added an in-store bakery in 2008; they offer several varieties of pita and flat breads.

RADINA’S BAKEHOUSE 227 Blue Earth Place Suite 111 / Manhattan (785) 320-2253 Open since 2014, this bakery uses locally sourced products whenever possible, including flour from The Stafford County Flour Mills. Artisan bread offerings include Kansas sourdough, ciabatta, baguettes, and 7-seed multigrain loaves.

Croissants and other pastries, along with their own roasted coffee, are available in their in-store coffee shop.

STRAWBERRY HILL POVITICA 7226 W Frontage Rd. / Merriam (800) 634-1002 Open since 1984, this bakery produces old-world loaves of povitica layered with English walnuts, poppy seeds and apple cinnamon fillings, and other nontraditional flavors such as strawberry cream cheese and chocolate.

WHEATFIELDS BAKERY AND CAFÉ 904 Vermont St. / Lawrence (785) 841-5553 This establishment opened in 1995 and uses a wood-fired oven to bake breads, including golden multigrain loaves, baguettes and white sourdough. They produce over 12 different types of breads daily as well as a special of the day. They also offer brioche, challah and pastries.

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

BAGATELLE BAKERY 6801 East Harry St. / Wichita (316) 684-5662 In business since 1982, the bakery specializes in French baguettes, several kinds of sourdough loaves, pita bread, brioche, hamburger buns, cakes and pastries; the café offers manoushi and sandwiches.

GREAT HARVEST BREAD CO. 4002 W. 83rd St. / Prairie Village (with additional locations in Wichita and Lawrence) (913) 381-8877 In business since 1981, this franchise bakery grinds their own flour and uses honey to sweeten their breads that include challah and honey whole wheat loaves. Cinnamon rolls and scones are also available.

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1900 BARKER BAKERY AND CAFÉ 1900 Barker Ave. / Lawrence (785) 424-7609 Open since 2015, this bakery offers organic, naturally leavened breads including their two-pound utility loaf, apple raisin walnut loaves, seeded multigrain breads and several rye and porridge breads. The bakery also houses a full coffee bar and pastry shop.

FEATURES 36 |

Raise a Glass If you’re looking for a buzz or warm and fuzzy feeling, you’ve come to the right place. Kansas liquid culture is all the rage.

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The Wines of Miami County One region of Kansas makes the case for a grape revival.

Buffalo Soldiers

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

Formed 150 years ago at Fort Leavenworth and destined to fight for a nation that didn’t want them, a group of soldiers left a legacy of courage, honor and contradictions.

PHOTOGRAPH Doug Stremel

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If you’re looking for a buzz or warm and fuzzy feeling, you’ve come to the right place.

Kansas’ liquid culture is all the rage.

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

Whether you’re a hophead or a wine aficionado, a java junkie or a spirits connoisseur, artisans and producers across the state make it their business and craft to guarantee our sips are extraordinary, authentic experiences. All you have to do is have an open mind and embrace the liquid culture that’s sweeping across the plains. So many drinks, so little time—here’s a small sample of the Kansas beer, wine, coffee and distilled spirits that have us at hello.

Raise a glass to your favorite!

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Story by Kimberly Winter Stern and Lou Ann Thomas Photography by Doug Stremel

High Spirits Forget the fact that Kansas—thanks to ushering in the first law forbidding alcoholic beverages in 1881—once held the reputation as the country’s driest state. Fast forward to the 21st century where there’s a revival of microdistilleries popping up across the Sunflower State, happily joining the nationwide craze for craft spirits.

Boot Hill Distillery “Soil to sip” is how Dodge Hill’s Boot Hill Distillery describes its brand of handcrafted, hyper-local spirits. After all, the vodka, gin and white whiskey are made from grain that the three owners—Roger Kelman, Hayes Kelman, and Chris Holovach—grow on their Kansas farms in Sublette and Scott City.

The trio spent more than a year renovating Boot Hill’s distillery and tasting room, Dodge City’s former municipal building built in 1929. Each bottle is labeled with where the ingredients were grown. “We grow the grain and then mash, ferment, distill and bottle onsite here,” says director of marketing and distiller Mark Vierthaler. Boot Hill celebrated its grand opening mid-summer 2016 and, according to Vierthaler, the offerings will eventually include bourbon. “It’s resting in oak barrels for a couple of years, though,” he says.

501 W. Spruce St., Dodge City / boothilldistillery.com

High Plains Distillery High Plains Distillery is family owned and operated by Seth Fox and his wife, Dorcie. The microdistillery opened in 2005 and produces vodka, whiskey, gin, tequila and Kansas bourbon under the “Most Wanted” label with the mission of offering quality spirits at an affordable price. The Foxes have expanded the distribution of the Most Wanted Vodka well beyond Kansas, to Georgia, California, Texas and Montana, among other states. Call ahead for tour and tasting information.

1700 Rooks Road, Atchison / highplainsinc.com

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

Union Horse Distilling Co.

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Founded in 2010 by four siblings—the three Garcia brothers and their sister—Union Horse Distilling Co. is a grain-to-bottle 20,000-square-foot craft distillery located off Interstate 35 in Lenexa that doubles as a production facility and stunning event venue. A massive 500-gallon gleaming copper pot, dubbed “Chester Copperpot,” distills four spirits while Union Horse’s whiskeys are aged in new American oak barrels. Master distiller and co-founder Patrick Garcia signs and hand numbers each bottle of the distillery’s popular Reunion Straight Rye (93 proof) and Reserve Straight Bourbon (92 proof). Union Horse whiskeys are available in Missouri, Nebraska, New York, New Jersey and Connecticut.

“Consumers have an increasing desire to know what they’re drinking and to understand the journey and story behind the product,” says general manager Eric Garcia. “Just as farm-to-table has been so popular, we’re finding people have the same passion about grain-to-glass. We know people are thirsty for a truly tailored, authentic product.”

From milling locally sourced grains to fermenting, barreling, bottling and labeling, the entire process is done in-house. This gives them “a chance to share our distinct passion for small-batch handcrafted spirits,” Garcia says.

11740 W. 86th Terrace, Lenexa / unionhorse.com

Wheat State Distilling Wheat State Distilling opened in December 2013 and is Wichita’s first legal distillery since Prohibition. It produces craft spirits, including rum, bourbon, vodka, gin and whiskey from Kansas grains. Founded by master distiller, owner and Wichita native David Bahre, Wheat State bills its products as “field to bottle.” Extending his passion for tracing the ingredients that make up his spirits, Bahre encourages customers to refer to the batch and bottle numbers on each spirit to understand the process.

1635 E. 37th Street, Wichita / wheatstatedistilling.com

The Law

According to Nation Rock-throwing, hatchetwielding and keg-rolling Carry Nation was a woman on a mission in Kansas during Prohibition as she raided saloons and smashed joints serving patrons illegal liquor that she deemed “hell-broth” and “devil-soup.” Once married to a Civil War doctor who died from the effects of alcohol a year following their separation, Nation felt it was her duty to keep Prohibition’s laws intact. The intimidating, black-clad, six-foot-tall leader of the so-called Home Defenders (Medicine Lodge’s local branch of the Women’s Christian Temperance Union) and its members created a ruckus and left a trail of destruction throughout Kansas as they spread their gospel of abstinence from alcohol consumption.

No doubt Nation and her rowdy Prohibition activists would have their hands full and their hatchets working overtime in modernday Kansas, 83 years following Prohibition’s repeal, when artisans are redefining the quality of handcrafted beer, wine and spirits.

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Wine Country Meander through Kansas to enjoy the fruits of the winemakers’ labor and discover why the state is becoming one of the nation’s leading areas for vineyards and wineries. At one point in its history, Kansas produced a sizeable amount of grapes. In fact, Europe’s blight-ridden vineyards of the 1800s wouldn’t have survived without the help of rootstock from Midwest grapes, used as a graft for European grape varieties because of their resistance against the bacterial infection. By the 1870s, Kansas was part of one of the country’s largest grape-growing and winemaking regions. Today’s wine production is mostly in the eastern part of the state; because of the Kansas climate, skilled vintners grow hybrid grapes that include part of the heartier native American grapes such as Seyval and Vignoles, among others.

Drink Up! Other sip-worthy spots in the Sunflower state.

Prairie Fire 20250 Hudson Ranch Road Paxico (785) 636-5533 prairiefirewinery.com

Shiloh Vineyard Smoky Hill Vineyards & Winery

Wheat State Wine Company There’s always something exciting going on at Wheat State Wine Company in Winfield, whether it’s live music, a fulllength feature film under the stars during the summer or a tour of the vineyard that includes Norton, St. Vincent, Vidal Blanc and Seyval Blanc grapes, among others. And of course, wine lovers from around the region flock to Wheat State to sip awardwinning wine on the patio, enjoy free tastings and explore the winery and grounds.

23622 Springhill Farm Drive, Winfield / wheatstatewineco.com

Wyldewood Cellars Wyldewood Cellars has an unusual claim to wine fame—elderberry wine. The family-owned winery opened in 1995 as a way to sustain the family farm, and 21 years later, it boasts 500 international awards and titles and more than 40 wines made from fruits, berries and grape varieties. Billed as Kansas’ largest winery, Wyldewood has three generations of the Brewer family working in the business.

John Brewer, who has a PhD in physics, is the owner of Wyldewood Cellars. He’s also one of three international, professional wine judges in Kansas. “It’s pretty simple,” Brewer laughs. “If it tastes good to you, then it’s good wine. People’s tastes vary so much.”

One of the joys Brewer has working at his winery is standing behind the tasting bar and watching people react to something they didn’t necessarily think they’d like.

“Their eyes light up and I hear lots of ‘wows,’” he says. “We have unique flavors in the Midwest because we cannot grow the California grape varieties, and often it’s a challenge to get people to accept flavors different from a California wine.

But our advantage is just that—we have things different from California.”

32633 Grapevine Road, Paxico / wyldewoodcellars.com

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2771 Centennial Road Salina (785) 825-8466 kansaswine.com

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With a degree in agronomy from Kansas State University, Kirk Johnston went to work on the farm that’s been handed down from generation to generation in his family since the 1920s. He and his wife, Treva, planted grapes in 2008 and experienced their first harvest four years later. “It was a good one,” Johnston says. Located in WaKeeney off the beaten path of Interstate 70, Shiloh Vineyard welcomes wine lovers from across the globe. “Sure, we like serving premium wine from the grapes we grow—dry whites and reds, semi-sweet whites and more—but it’s about sharing that with people,” Johnston says. The tasting room is in a renovated chicken coop Johnston’s grandfather built last century, and a 100-year-old restored barn is available for weddings and other special events. Oh, and Sam, Shiloh’s canine mascot, will greet you like a long-lost friend. Which is just how the Johnstons like it.

16079 M Road, WaKeeney / shilohvineyard.com

Get Hoppy The foamy, golden beverage once synonymous with football, the ubiquitous six-pack and thirst-quenching vehicle has evolved into a beverage to be savored for its depth of character and myriad flavor qualities. Brewpubs were legalized in Kansas in 1987, and today the state is part of the beer revolution sweeping the nation—there are gems galore where you can sip on great handcrafted brews.

Blind Tiger Brewery & Restaurant Named after the Prohibition-era custom of displaying stuffed tigers to alert speakeasy customers of the availability of alcohol, the Blind Tiger Brewery & Restaurant features flagship beers—many of them awardwinning—and a revolving menu of seasonal beers and stick-to-your-ribs pub food. Diners have a great view of the brewmasters as they tend fermentation tanks and keep tabs on the brewhouse’s activities.

417 SW 37th Street, Topeka / blindtiger.com

Free State Brewing Company

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Free State Brewing Company opened in 1989 on Lawrence’s bustling Massachusetts Street and is the Great Plains’ oldest microbrew pub, boasting a following that some describe as “cult-like.” The brewhouse bottles beers distributed throughout the region, and the restaurant serves homemade dishes such as crispy fish and chips, burgers, salads and more.

Be sure to try the year-round Ad Astra—this rich amber ale is a crowd favorite.

636 Massachusetts Street, Lawrence / freestatebrewing.com

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Tallgrass Brewing Co. Tallgrass Brewing Co. is located near the storied Flint Hills—hence the name’s nod to the famous prairie grass that once blanketed the area.

Tallgrass is known for its award-winning, world-class craft beers and for taking the plunge and opting out of glass bottles in favor of 16-ounce cans in 2010. Now a major regional brewery with its products sold throughout the region (thanks to a new 60,000-square-foot production facility that opened in 2015), Tallgrass has a beer-finder app to help fans locate popular brews such as Buffalo Sweat and Top Rope IPA. Although tours aren’t yet available, beer aficionados can enjoy Tallgrass brews at the 10-barrel, 300-seat Tallgrass Tap House.

Thanks to a dedication to producing good beer, says founder Jeff Gill, Tallgrass has made a name for itself outside Kansas, from Tennessee to Colorado and North Dakota to Texas.

“Kansas is still where the most Tallgrass is sold, and the first release of any new beer happens here. Buffalo Sweat, our stout-style beer— really, does the name get any more Kansas?”

320 Poyntz Avenue, Manhattan (Tap House) tallgrassbeer.com

Brew it Yourself Brew Lab in Downtown Overland Park celebrates the contemporary home brewer with a unique brewon-the-premises store. Serving both experienced hobbyists and novices, Brew Lab offers a full menu of brewing education experiences: opt for a private session, enroll in a public class or shop the shelves stocked with supplies, equipment and quality ingredients to complement your own brewing adventures. Spend an afternoon at one of Brew Lab’s brewing stations—call ahead to reserve a block of time and bring in your own recipe or have an onsite expert create one according to your palate. Cheers!

8004 Foster Street, Overland Park brewlabkc.com

Drink Up! Other sip-worthy spots in the Sunflower state.

Defiance Brewing 2050 Old Hwy 40, Hays (785) 301-2337 defiancebeer.com

Kansas Territory Brewing 310 C St., Washington (785) 325-3300 kansasterritorybrewingco.com

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Drink Up! Other sip-worthy spots in the Sunflower state.

Blacksmith Coffee Roastery 122 N Main St., Lindsborg (800) 576-5280 blacksmithcoffee.com

Paramour Coffee 810 4th St., Wamego (785) 458-5282 paramourcoffee.com

KANSAS!

Supreme Beans Kansas wouldn’t be a well-rounded drinking destination without the help of morning’s companion, coffee. It doesn’t matter how you take it—packed with sugar or black as night—it all begins with a perfectly roasted bean.

Fresh Seven Coffee Fresh Seven Coffee is a coffee paradise tucked away unexpectedly in St. Francis and serving the surrounding tri-state area. Kale Dankenbring and Heidi Plumb opened Fresh Seven Coffee in their 8-by-16-foot remodeled car trailer in 2013 and have been drawing coffee drinkers ever since. The couple does small-batch roasting with an emphasis on buying the freshest beans available; they then give the beans their signature lightto-medium roast as soon as possible after harvest in four-pound batches. “We focus on roasting so that the flavor profile of our single-origin coffee beans are retained, then let them sit for two days to balance the flavors, and we only serve that batch for seven days, hence our name, Fresh Seven Coffee,” Plumb says.

312 West Washington St., St. Francis freshsevencoffee.com

Fine Arts Unique • Functional Featuring the original handmade works of local, regional and national artisans.

Pottery • Blown Glass • Jewelry • Woodwork • Textiles and much more

Visit us in beautiful downtown Lawrence, Kansas!

825 MASSACHUSETTS STREET LAWRENCE KS - 785.843.0080

Reverie Coffee Roasters

PT’s Coffee Roasting Co. PT’s Coffee Roasting Co. in Topeka is an award-winning roaster that has been around and growing for 23 years. When cofounder Jeff Taylor identifies a good source for his beans, he, or a colleague, actually visits the farms where the beans are grown and meets the farmers. “We have visited hundreds of coffee farms and work with those farmers we have identified as the ones who are the best,” Taylor says. About 80 percent of the coffee PT’s roasts is acquired through their Direct Trade program. In addition to their café locations in Topeka and Kansas City, PT’s coffee can be found in at least 35 states, restaurants, select grocery stores and online.

929 SW University Blvd Suite 2704, Topeka ptscoffee.com

Also shop at:

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www.phoenixgalleryart.com

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Andrew Gough, owner of Reverie Coffee Roasters, sources Fair Trade, organic and sustainable beans whenever possible.

Ian Miller, head roaster, then gives the beans a light-to-medium roast. “We try to roast so it emphasizes the flavors of the particular origin. Each is tailored to bring out the best balance of sweetness and acidity,” Miller says. Reverie also uses locally sourced milk and cream, blended teas, chocolate and ice cream in its café. “We focus on quality in everything and are trying to educate our customers about coffee and advance the coffee culture in our community,” he says.

2611 E. Douglas Ave. Wichita reverieroasters.com

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in KANSAS! Magazine For details contact Sunflower Publishing (888) 497-8668 sunpubads@sunflowerpub.com

the wines

BEFO RE WH EAT B OF KA ECAM NSAS E THE AGRIC VINEY ICONI U LTUR ARDS C SYM E, G R A WERE BOL THE S P E-P R C T A T E. OMMO O D I N n U statew fact, if CING VENT ide pr URES it were ohibit ACRO n’t for of vine io SS n in 18 the in yards— troduc 81 and the Ka Assoc t io t h n of e subs nsas V iation equen iticult estima were t ure an t destr tes tha orn ou d uction t more Farm t—Ka grape Winer than 5 nsas m state. y ,0 00 acr ight h es of w ave be Grape come ine-gra s h a known pes ve bee the Fa n mak as ano rm Win ing a s ther ery Ac comm lo t passe w retu ercial rn to th d in 19 wine p eviden 85 to a e regio roduc t is in M ll n sinc o ti w o n for vin . One e iami C known eyards place ounty, as the th and is w resurg here a Somer City m ence is group set Win etro re of win quite e Trail gion, th farmla eries h . A rela e area nd sce a s x in b b e g o come nes an asts th day trip d ench ree win from th anting eries th e Kansa wine p at com s roduc bine M tion fa idwest cilities Story by .

LINDA A. DITCH

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of miami county

ONE REGION OF KANSAS MAKES THE CASE FOR A GRAPE REVIVAL

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KEVIN ANDERSON

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NIGHTHAWK VINEYARD AND WINERY More than 22 years ago, Don and Catherine Warring fell in love with a property where an old farmstead once stood in a grove of 100-year-old walnut trees. Here, the couple built a straw-bale home and planted a vineyard, which allowed them in 2010 to open what they describe as their small boutique winery.

Don explains they want visitors not only to try their wines but also to have fun, enjoy the scenery and listen to good music. He sees the winery as a peaceful getaway for people from the city and points out the 16-mile view across a valley. Approximately 200 people come each weekend, with a lively atmosphere on Saturdays and a more relaxed feel on Sundays.

“Bring lawn chairs,” he advises. “We sometimes run out of chairs.”

The Warrings grow approximately 3,400 vines in their vineyard. The grape varieties include Baco Noir, Chambourcin, Vignoles, Melody and Frontenac, from which they produce around 12 different wines, depending on the year, and one hard cider.

Catherine is the winemaker and works at the winery full time. Don still works in the insurance industry but is intent on striking the right balance with life, work and the vines.

“It’s always good to stay engaged in life,” he says. “We enjoy the people who visit our winery, and we have fun.”

1638 1 Wes t3 Paola , Kans 43rd Stre et as (913) 849-3 415 w: nig ht e: nig hawkwine hthaw s kwine .com ry@g mail.c hours om : Friday and S 11 a.m a . to 5 turday p.m.

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785-852-4004

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MIDDLE CREEK WINERY AND GRAUE VINEYARDS Kristin and Stephen Graue were attracted to the land around Middle Creek Winery because of the story it told.

“This is an historic property. There was an antique sorghum house and the remnants of an old vineyard and orchard,” Kristin says. “We discovered old hedge posts they used as stakes that were still holding some of the old vines, though they were not producing any grapes.”

The winery building was once their horse barn. The couple named their Cheyenne Red wine—which became one of their top sellers—after the building’s former equine occupant. Visitors also enjoy the Sunflower White and the Mead, made with honey, along with some of the 12 or so other varieties they make, depending on the season and harvest.

The Graues grow a large variety of grapes, including Vignoles, Muscat, St. Pepin, Norton, Chambourcin, Traminette, and Cayuga. “All of our wines are made with one hundred percent Kansas-grown grapes,” Kristin says. “If we don’t have enough grapes to produce a particular vintage, we buy grapes from other Kansas producers.”

4353 West 351st Street In 2014, Kristin and Louisburg, Kansas Stephen bought the New (913) 377-4689 Lancaster General Store just off the old town square in w: middlecreekwinery.com the tiny nearby town of New w: newlancastergeneralstore.com Lancaster. After extensive restoration work on the hours: 1874 National Historic Open by appointment and for Register landmark, which special events. included saving the original shelving, tin ceilings, and Wine tastings take place at wood floors, the store is New Lancaster General Store now Middle Creek Winery’s and Winery tasting outlet. This also 36688 New Lancaster Road freed up the horse barn winery room for private Fridays 12 to 5 p.m. functions and special Saturdays, 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. events, such as concerts and Sundays 12 to 5 p.m. and astronomy nights.

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abilene’s Victorian inn a bed and breakfast Abilene, Kansas

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rday h Satu : g s r u u o r o h th esday Wedn o 5 p.m. t .

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SOMERSET RIDGE VINEYARD AND WINERY Since planting their first vines in 1998, Dennis and Cindy Reynolds have grown Somerset Ridge Vineyard and Winery into a business that produces 5,000 cases of wine each year. Cindy has also spearheaded the promotion of the area’s wine heritage.

“We started the Miami County wine trail to tell the story of more than just one winery in this area,” Cindy explains. “Growing grapes is something we can do very well here.”

The Reynolds’ vineyard grows twelve different grape varieties, with each vine pruned and harvested by hand. The wines produced from these grapes encompass the entire taste range from dry to sweet. The most popular variety is the Buffalo Red, a fruity, semi-sweet wine.

The winery has live musical performances each weekend during the growing season, with food prepared outside by a variety of chefs. September and October is grape harvest season and their busiest time of year. Cindy suggests making a reservation if you plan a visit with more than just a couple of people. The Reynolds are delighted to welcome all guests, including fellow Kansans.

“Touring the wineries in the state is a great way to learn about where you’re from,” says Cindy. “You are tasting the output of your land.”

Touron the Trolley To make your tour of Miami County wineries a truly relaxing experience, consider booking a ride on the Miami County Trolley. Now in its fourth season, the trolley service takes visitors to each of the wineries in the area.

Brian and Michelle Roberts were looking for a business of their own when they paid a visit to Hermann, Missouri, and saw trolleys taking visitors to the area wineries. After spending six months learning the business from Hermann Trolleys owner Kevin Sanderlin, the Roberts were ready to get started. Sanderlin sold them their first trolley. Today they own two.

Wine tour participants must be 21 years of age or older.

The cost is $20. (Keep in mind that each winery also charges a separate $5 tasting fee.) Reservations are required since some tour times sell out in advance. A trolley can also be booked for weddings, corporate events and other parties or gatherings.

MIAMI COUNTY TROLLEY Paola, Kansas (913) 306-3388 w: miamicountytrolley.com e: info@miamicountytrolley.com

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The Miami County trolleys pick up guests at a Paolaarea hotel (typically the historic Jackson Hotel) or bed and breakfast. The full tour takes about five hours, and visitors spend about an hour at each winery. The driver will return you to your starting point or to a restaurant of your choosing. The Saturday tours begin at 11 a.m. and noon.

Sunday tours start at 11:45 a.m.

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• Multiple retail and dining options • Countless historic attractions and destinations • Several recreational and entertainment venues • Wide variety of cultural events and activities • Numerous lodging arrangements

CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU

®

BUFFALO

Formed 150 years ago at Fort Leavenworth and destined to fight for a nation that didn’t want them, a group of soldiers left a legacy of courage, honor and contradictions

Story by Melinda Briscoe Timeline by Bianca Brown Illustrations by Ted. S. Komala

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PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF The Library of Congress

SOLDIERS

are part of America’s lexicon and collective legend. Perhaps this is because of our love of anything “Wild West.” Maybe, it is a little part hero worship. And of course, there’s that Bob Marley song. But beyond the mystique, there are some core truths: Those who were originally known as the Buffalo Soldiers were the first allblack standing units of the United States military in 1866. One of the groups, the 10th Cavalry, was formed and based here in Kansas, at Fort Leavenworth. According to historian Robert Morris, the Buffalo Soldiers were recognized for their courage and discipline at a time when many white settlers on the frontier commonly thought black soldiers were disease carriers, cowards and likely deserters.

In fact, their courage may be why it is believed some of the Native Americans they encountered gave the cavalry soldiers of the 10th, and their counterparts in the 9th, the unique moniker. Comparing these soldiers to the buffalo—a creature

Buffalo Soldiers

Buffalo Soldiers Timeline

that fights fiercely even when wounded or cornered—would seem apropos. Of course, another story that the Indians thought the soldiers’ thick hair resembled the curly tuft of fur on the buffalos’ backs could be applicable as well. Either way, the animal would have been sacred to the Natives, and the soldiers came to wear the nickname with pride.

The Buffalo Soldiers rode out into a nation that was full of expansion and conflict. Excited to stake claim on their own piece of land and make a fresh start, Euro-American settlers had begun to pour into the frontier. The government, battered and exhausted from five years of the Civil War, turned to formerly enslaved persons as a new way to fill the army’s ranks. For their part, the African-American men who joined the ranks had compelling reasons to enlist.

“One of the things that attracted African-American men to join the army is that they were surrounded by people just like

July 1867

1870–1889

After more than two centuries of war between Native Americans and Euro-American settlers, the United States government creates the Indian Peace Commission to force Native Americans onto reservations away from settlers, roads and railroads. The new black regiments would become some of the first soldiers to enforce these policies.

Twelve of 25 black applicants are admitted into the United States Military Academy.

Despite being subjected to vehement racism, three black cadets graduate during this period.

The Plains Wars Era

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July 28, 1866

After contentious debates, Congress passes the Army Reorganization Bill, which creates six black regiments. Two of these, the 9th and 10th, are cavalry units.

The other four, the 38th, 39th, 40th and 41th, are infantry.

1875

Black Seminole scouts Sergeant John Ward, Private Pompey Factor, and Trumpeter Isaac Payne receive the Medal of Honor for saving their unit commander, Lieutenant John L. Bullis, in a battle with the Comanche near the Pecos River.

The Border Wars Era 1867–1891

During the Cheyenne War, the name “Buffalo Soldiers” is given to the 10th cavalry. It is unknown who first used the term and why it was initially applied to the troops, though the term eventually was applied to all black regiments.

1869

The army is reorganized and consolidates the black infantries.

The 38th and 41st become the 24th; the 39th and 40th become the 25th.

July 1870

A group of Mascogos (or Black Seminoles) enlists as scouts at Fort Duncan in Texas. They serve there and at Fort Clark, Texas.

1875

Private Adam Payne of the Black Seminoles is awarded the Medal of Honor for holding off Kiowa attackers and allowing his accompanying scouts to find safety during the Red River War.

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54 themselves,” explains Shelton Johnson, who has done extensive research about Buffalo Soldiers as a park ranger with the Division of Interpretation and Education at Yosemite National Park. “Moving from the South saved many black people’s lives back then. Some saw joining the army as a way to escape the oppression of civilian society. The original Buffalo Soldiers were men who literally could not be men in the South without being dead men. These men joined the army for a sanctuary. They would not have lasted long in the South immediately after the Civil War. They would have been lynched.”

Barrie Thompkins, a Buffalo Soldier reenactor and member of the Nicodemus Buffalo Soldiers Association, Kent Cavalry Company F, believes the men’s reasons were probably pretty practical. “Joining the army gave them a purpose,” he says. “This

was at the end of slavery, so where else would they go and what else were they going to do? For many black men, it was a better option than sharecropping.”

Glory and reality Once they became soldiers, the men quickly realized the honor and glory would have to come after other things.

Historian and filmmaker Kevin Willmott explains, “The Buffalo Soldiers were given the worst duties—things the white soldiers didn’t want to do like digging ditches, latrines and graves. And it wasn’t without harassment from white soldiers and settlers.

That was an ongoing obstacle.” The Buffalo Soldiers were given hand-me-down everything. From uniforms, to weapons and tools, even to horses. According to historian Tracy Barnett, the

1877

Soldiers of the 9th forcibly relocate Apaches to the most inhospitable part of the San Carlos reservation. This military action is in response to Apache attacks on settlements as the Apaches— who never received food and resources that were promised through treaties and were near starving—fought for their survival.

1877

1877–1878

In what becomes known as the Colfax County war and the Lincoln County war, soldiers from the 9th are sent in to evict white and Hispanic settlers from land claimed by a large company.

Henry O. Flipper becomes the first black soldier to graduate from the United States Military Academy. He begins his career with the 10th and would serve until 1881, when he was court-martialed under questionable circumstances as part of an embezzlement hearing. The US Army reviewed this case in 1976, clearing Flipper’s name and providing him an honorable discharge. President Bill Clinton signed a formal pardon in 1999, vindicating Flipper’s short but distinguished career.

1881

Black Seminole scouts are evicted from Fort Clark and refused the land grants and rations they had been promised in return for their services to the military and government.

1880

The journals and letters of the Buffalo Soldiers indicate that some of them were aware of this tragedy. “Every individual who put on the uniform had his own story, but many realized they were instruments of the government, helping to fight another group of people and aiding their own oppressors in displacing a people from their land,” says Johnson.

Previous legacy African-American men had faced dilemmas in serving in the U.S. military even before the Buffalo Soldiers had come along. The first American to die in the Revolutionary War was a former slave named Crispus Attucks. And in the Continental Army, 5,000 troops were black while thousands others fought with the British, who in notable cases advanced and protected their status as free men.

Black soldiers participated in 39 major battles and 410 lesser skirmishes during the Civil War. Fifteen states contributed

1886

Allen Allensworth begins his military service as a chaplain. A former slave, he creates educational systems and standards that are used by military personnel, their families and civilians.

Johnson Chestnut Whittaker, a black cadet at the United States Military Academy, is discovered “beaten, bloodied, and tied to his bunk.” An inquiry concludes that he did these things to himself, for which Whittaker would be court-martialed and expelled in 1881. The court-martial was overturned in 1883.

1887

1889

Charles Young becomes the third graduate from West Point.

His career would span more than 30 years, and he would become the nation’s first black officer to reach the rank of full colonel.

John Hanks Alexander becomes the second black officer to graduate from the USMA. He would serve with the 9th and became the first black officer to hold a regular command position.

1891

Black chaplain Theophilus G. Steward joins the 25th infantry. He would accompany the regiment to the Philippines and help the military establish schools for Filipino children.

1894

The 24th is brought in to break the Pullman Railways Strike in Los Angeles.

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Buffalo Soldiers at Fort Leavenworth were told they had to put their housing in the lowest, swampiest areas. The result was sickness and death for some soldiers.

Even with these conditions, the Buffalo Soldiers were given some of the most difficult tasks: to remove Native Americans in the Great Plains and Southwest and relocate them to “Indian territory,” which is now known as Oklahoma.

It ended up being a three-decade-long campaign. They had been taught that Indians were “savages” who must be shown the “civilized” way of life.

Denise Low, a former poet laureate of Kansas who is part Lenape and Cherokee, notes that by riding out against the Native peoples, the Buffalo Soldiers achieved an unfortunate parity with the whites who marginalized them. She writes that by serving under the flag, the soldiers became “part of the forces that sought to eradicate the Indigenous way of life.”

volunteers to the United States Colored Troops (USCT), the official designation given to nearly all black formations in 1864.

The 1st Kansas Colored Infantry and the 1st South Carolina Regiment were the first two black formations to be recruited and sent into combat.

Two Civil War heroes, Edward Hatch and Benjamin Grierson—both white—were the first colonels assigned to the 9th and 10th cavalries. “Hatch and Grierson were considered quite progressive back in that day, to head colored units,” explains Johnson. “George Armstrong Custer was one of the first people offered those units and he turned it down. He thought being in charge of units of black soldiers would be bad for his career.” Thompkins adds, “Custer said he did not ‘want anything to do with those brunettes.’”

In that sense, says Johnson, the story of the Buffalo Soldiers was the story of all African-American men who fought for the United States. “They were fighting the same battles over and over again, fighting on two fronts: the enemies of the United States and the internalized racism that existed in the United States itself.”

Riding out Upon formation, the 9th Cavalry was assigned to the Texas area and fought in many campaigns of the “Indian Wars,” including tracking down and capturing famous Apache military leaders like Geronimo and Victorio, a master strategist. The highly trained and experienced U.S. Army embarked on a year-long chase to find Victorio and his people. And just when they thought they had him, he would trick them and effectively

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elude them. The Buffalo Soldiers were able to finally track him down. And once they did, “the Buffalo Soldiers and Victorio’s troops fought for so long, for over 14 days nonstop,” explains Thompkins. “They literally had to decide to take a time out because both sides were exhausted.”

Beyond the Plains After the frontier battles, the Buffalo Soldiers were sent to various places, for a variety of campaigns—both major and minor.

The 9th and 10th cavalries were sent to Cuba in 1898 to fight in the Spanish-American War. And even there, they continued to face prejudice. Signs in certain businesses told the black soldiers to stay away. They were instructed by their superiors to stay on the docked ship they arrived on while their white counterparts were allowed to leave the boat and travel

Summer 1903

Charles Young is made acting superintendent of Sequoia National Park. Young and his troops built the roads at the Sequoia more efficiently than any previous acting superintendent and troops.

March 1916

The 10th joins the command of General John J. Pershing in the Punitive Expedition, a crossborder raid into Mexican territory.

The Spanish-American War Era

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

June 1899

Buffalo regiments are deployed to the Philippines, the first time that black regiments are sent overseas by the United States.

1907

Allen Allensworth and Theophilus G. Steward retire.

about as they pleased. In the tropical Cuban climate they were not given lightweight uniforms to wear. Instead, they were expected to continue donning their heavy woolen uniforms.

At the time, future president Theodore Roosevelt was second in command of the armed forces in Cuba. The famous “Rough Riders” he headed were in quite a jam when they lost their weapons and found themselves surrounded by heavily armed Spanish fighters.

“When the movies have depicted that battle, you rarely if ever see portrayals of the Buffalo Soldiers. When, in fact, they saved the day,” says Johnson.

Willmott elaborates, “Roosevelt admitted that the Buffalo Soldiers saved his troops and helped win that battle. He made the famous statement of ‘they can drink from our canteens’, which at that time really meant something.”

Five black cavalrymen won the Congressional Medal of

1918

Henry Johnson, private in the 369th Infantry Regiment of the 93rd Division, is awarded the French Croix de Guerre.

Armed only with a knife, Johnson held back a night raid of 12 German soldiers and saved the life of his fellow sentry.

October 1917

The allblack 92nd Infantry Division is formed. The soldiers call themselves the “Buffalo Division.”

World War I Era

April 1917

The United States formally enters World War I. In all, some 400,000 black soldiers would serve the United States during WWI. Of these, 200,000 would serve in Europe (160,000 of them as labor and roadclearing units and 40,000 of them as part of the 92nd and 93rd infantry divisions).

June 1917

Colonel Charles Young is removed from active duty after protests that his rise in the ranks would put him in command of white soldiers. Officially, the War Department claims Young has high blood pressure and this is the cause for removal.

1937

Europe descends into war and black civilians and soldiers argue for complete racial integration in the military in order to boost the fighting capacity of the United States. These calls are ignored.

1940

The army expands the scope of all-black units, including the traditional approach of noncombat support units such as engineering and transportation units, but also an artillery and chemical unit.

World War I I Era Summer 1919

Returning from World War I as military victors and heroes, black soldiers face unwavering prejudice and hostility at home. In what would be known as “Red Summer,” 78 black veterans are lynched and 14 are burned alive—many while wearing their uniforms.

1939

The United States Army creates the 47th and 48th allblack units as quartermaster regiments.

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56 Honor for their bravery during that campaign. Unfortunately, Roosevelt’s gratitude didn’t last. He later told newspaper reporters that the Buffalo Soldiers had been slow and cowardly.

The record, however, belies his words.

Other officers, however, became advocates for the Buffalo Soldiers. One of these was General John Pershing, who went on to command American forces during World War I. As a first lieutenant in 1895, he took command of the 10th Cavalry to help find and apprehend the famous Mexican revolutionary Pancho Villa. He personally chose the 10th for this assignment. Though they were unsuccessful, Pershing never forgot the tenacity and work ethic of his soldiers. Years later, General Pershing would be instrumental in having the all-black 92nd and 93rd infantry divisions fight in WW I, but under French command (because

of newly enacted Jim Crow laws the soldiers were, in effect, shut out from fighting for America). They were the first Americans to fight in France in WW I and would continue to fight in that country for the duration of the war. Due to his association with the Buffalo Soldiers, Pershing was given the name of “Black Jack.” Although it was meant as a slight on his character, he liked it and kept the nickname.

National Park Service Americans love their national parks; so do visitors from other countries. But how many people are aware that the Buffalo Soldiers were among the first park rangers? In 1899 and then in 1903–1904, the soldiers worked in both Yosemite and Sequoia National Park. “The military stewardship of the

Historic Site in Alaska, the Haleakal National Park and Hawaii Volcanoes National Park in Hawaii and Glacier National Park in Montana. In a sense, any visitor to these locations owes a debt of gratitude to the Buffalo Soldiers.

“The way I see it is when someone does a good job, they deserve to hear a thank you,” continues Johnson. “Part of my job as a ranger and educator is to make sure that their contributions are not forgotten.”

parks started because once those areas were designated as national parks, the people who at one time chopped down trees to build their houses and killed deer to feed their families had to be removed,” explains Johnson. “The army was already set up to enforce law and order in the Wild West. The military brought a sense of safety and security to the newly formed National Parks. In 1903 the Buffalo Soldiers built the first trails on top of Mt. Whitney, which at that time was the highest peak in America. They also built the first usable wagon road through Giant Forest in the Sequoia National Park, and in 1904 they created a nature trail in Yosemite, which is considered the first in the National Park system.”

Johnson notes the soldiers would go on to serve at locations that were or would become national parks and sites across the United States: the Klondike Gold Rush National

Legacy After President Truman desegregated the U.S. military in 1948, the Buffalo Soldiers’ days were numbered, and the allblack units were disbanded between 1951 and 1953. However, their legacy endures.

Barrie Thompkins wants people to know the soldiers

December 1943 1944 June 1941

The Fair Employment Act makes racial discrimination in the government and defense industry illegal.

The act, however, is widely ignored and unenforced.

The all-black 555th Parachute Infantry Battalion is formed.

The battalion was deployed in a secret mission along the Northwest coast, fighting forest fires and in position to respond to Japan’s launching of some 9,000 air balloons loaded with bombs.

Fighting along the Italian front, Buffalo Soldiers of the 92nd are placed in frontal assaults repeatedly by an openly antiblack commander.

Historians regard his decision as an intentional move to inflict the most casualties possible on his own men.

October 2000

1948

1953

President Harry S. Truman orders the official desegregation of the United States military.

Ninety percent of black servicemen in the United States military serve in integrated units.

Junction City dedicates a memorial to the Buffalo Soldiers of the 9th and 10th divisions who were stationed nearby at Fort Riley. The organization for creating and funding the monument was spearheaded by a group of veteran Buffalo Soldiers, including Tural Covington Jr., Albert Curley, Fredrick T. Donlan, Samuel G. Kimble and Jay P. Meigs Jr.

The End of the Buffalo Soldiers 1944

The 9th and 10th cavalry regiments are added to the 2nd Cavalry Division.

The division is quickly disbanded, and the black soldiers are refused combat under the notion that the reconnaissance missions of their units are unnecessary for modern warfare.

were men of many talents. “Some say all the Buffalo Soldiers did was build forts and roads. In all, there were 23 who received the Congressional Medal of Honor. They’re the highest decorated cavalry regiment in all of U.S. military history, so how can anyone say all they did was build roads?” says Thompkins. “They helped settle the West. They strung telegraph lines. They delivered the mail when Pony Express ended. Their contributions are numerous and great.”

“Their spirit lives on in various forms of the civil rights movement,” says Johnson. “Whether it was W. E. B. Dubois, Booker T. Washington, or Malcolm X, the soldiers’ courageous spirit is seen in them. The Buffalo Soldiers had to keep fighting the same battle over and over again. That battle was to prove that they could fight.”

June 1950

Though officially integrated, the US Army continued de facto segregation for many units and forms the all-black Second Ranger Infantry (Airborne), who take the name of the Buffalo Rangers.

July 1992

Chairman of the Joint Chiefs of Staff, General Colin Powell, dedicates a monument to Buffalo Soldiers at Fort Leavenworth.

August 26–27 2016

Buffalo Soldiers ride again!

Hundreds of members of the Buffalo Soldiers Motorcycle Club gather in Kansas City before riding to Fort Leavenworth in honor of the 150th anniversary of the Buffalo Soldiers.

—Timeline compiled and written by Bianca Brown.

“It’s a complicated legacy,” says Willmott. “Their challenge was that they were second-class citizens at best. The reality was that they were fighting for white society against another people of color. They were in challenging racial and ethical situations, but they thought if they succeeded, that would push civil rights along.

They felt they were fighting for a bigger cause even though they were fighting for a nation that didn’t want them.”

SOURCES: Sheffer, Debra. The Buffalo Soldiers: Their Epic Story and Major Campaigns. Praeger, 2015. Print; Rawn, James. The Double V: How Wars, Protest, and Harry Truman Desegregated America’s Military. Bloomsbury Press, 2013; National Park Service brochures; Greenville Online, “Buffalo Soldier Laid to Rest,” local news section from February 19, 2016, accessed May 02, 2016; Biggs, Bradley. The Triple Nickels: America’s First All-Black Paratroop Unit; Gazelle Book Services, 1986; Coen, Ross. Fu-Go: The Curious History of Japan’s Balloon Bomb Attack on America, University of Nebraska Press, 2014; United States Army, army.mil/medalofhonor/Johnson, accessed May 10, 2016; U.S. Army garrison.leavenworth.army.mil “Buffalo Soldier Memorial Park” accessed May 10, 2016; interview with Jack McDonald, May 12, 2016

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The 332nd fighter group, famously known as the Tuskegee Airmen, see their first battle.

They would serve until October 1945.

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June 1943

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SHAWNEE COUNTY | Brad Neff

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CHASE COUNTY | Bruce L. Hogle

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SCOTT COUNTY | Alan Hutchins

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DOUGLAS COUNTY | Jeff McPheeters

milestone BLUES MASTERS AT THE CROSSROADS

October 21–22 | Salina, Kansas

Once again this autumn, some of the nation’s top Blues musicians, as well as the genre’s up-and-coming stars, will converge at Salina’s Blue Heaven Studios for two days of soulful performances.

Blue Heaven is a world-class recording studio in a converted Gothic-style church built for acoustics and for an audience of some 450. The Blues Masters at the Crossroads event, now in its 19th year, has previously featured Rock & Roll Hall of Famer Gregg Allman, Texas legend Guitar Shorty and Chicago’s Honeyboy Edwards.

Tickets for the two-night event are sold through blueheavenstudios.com, which also has downloads from previous years’ performances and recommendations for area accommodations and restaurants.

The event is organized by Acoustic Sounds, the parent company of Blue Heaven Studios, and by Salina’s vinyl record-printing plant, Quality Records.

“Stay for both nights, if possible, and make time on Saturday from 10 am to 2 pm to tour our music studios and the Quality Records pressing plant,” suggests Acoustic Sounds communication manager David Clouston.“It is the only vinyl LP pressing plant in the Midwest. It has been in operation since 2011, and it presses records for all the major labels, Sony etc., as well as our own independent label.”

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PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF KDWPT

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