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Dear Reader, We are opening a new publishing series for Kagero - modelers fans. This is a free series only in electronic version. We wish you pleasant reading.

KAGERO Team

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year

Workshop

4 Editor-in-chief: Damian Majsak Assistant editor: Stanisław Powała-Niedźwiecki e-mail: redakcja@kagero.pl phone +4881 501-21-05 DTP: KAGERO Studio Proofing: Karolina Kaźmierska Editorial board reserves the right to shorten texts and changing of titles and also is not responsible for author’s opinions contained in texts. Non ordered materials will not be returned.

Publisher:

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Scale modelling know-how

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Tomek Wajnkaim Aviation

KAGERO Publishing Akacjowa 100, Turka, os. Borek, 20-258 Lublin 62, Poland www.kagero.pl, kagero@kagero.pl Marketing: Joanna Majsak marketing@kagero.pl Sales: e-mail: oferta@kagero.pl, phone/fax +4881 501-21-05

Supermarine Spitfire Mk.VIII

Ralph Riese ISBN: 978-83-64596-63-6

Publisher of Super Model International Kagero’s modelling series warns all sellers that selling actual and archive issues of magazine with sales price different than one from cover is illegal and will result in criminal liability.

s h o p. k a g e ro. p l • w w w. k a g e ro. e u • w w w. f a ce b o o k . co m / K a g e ro. S M

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Vehicles

HOTCHKISS H39

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The H39 tank colours

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Joaquin García Gazquez Hubert Michalski

W ORKSHOP techniques | tools | workshop

Scale modelling

Our ABC is prepared for both beginners and more advanced modellers who are keen to come back to scale modelling after a few years of absence and would like to catch up with new techniques. We are open for cooperation. Feel free to write to us!

know-how Tomek Wajnkaim

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very modeller likes to store a few or over a dozen unfinished kits (some of us have even hundreds of them!). Frequent viewing of sprues, studying the instructions and choosing the paint scheme are very important part of preparations. However, you will only be able to start the building once certain “magic” moment comes and when you feel the “urge” to build.

Before cutting out the parts from the sprues, it is worth giving them a good wash. Such cleaning is necessary to get rid of all chemical substances left from the process of manufacturing the kit. The worst thing during the painting is the grease from injection machines. It effectively reduces the grip of paints, especially acrylics thinned with water.

Another very important part of the working process is to correctly cut out the parts from the sprues and to grind the unwanted connections. A well-chosen tools are fundamental for the effective building.

Every good modeller builds his workshop for years, collecting the best and the most useful tools. A belief that a random tool can do the job when used by experienced modeller may be true. However, in kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl

my opinion the right tool means quicker and lighter work.

And the last but not least glues and gluing. The first scale modeling rule says: “fit three times before gluing”. There are a few kinds of glues and every one of them should be used for different materials.

You will need a small amount of detergent, big bowl and warm (but not hot) water. Using a soft brush gently wash the sprues and rinse them with warm water. Leave them for drying on paper towels for a few hours.

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Side closing pincers

The best tools to cut parts from the sprues are side closing pincers. Their flat side is perfect for cutting off the parts.

W ORKSHOP

Cutting off the parts

Grinding

idea to make a special shelf in your workshop to store sandpapers samples in separate boxes.

the edges

When cutting out the elements make sure you don’t make any deep holes in plastic. You should leave a jagged edge, which will be removed later with sharp scalpel, file and sandpapers. The gradation of sandpapers should start with number 600 through to 800, 1000, 1200 and finally 1500–2000. Paper no. 600 is the smallest gradation which I would recommend for plastic models. Lower numbers are too thick and solid and may cause hard to remove scratches on surfaces. It is a good kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl

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W ORKSHOP

Sink marks During the process of injecting the kit there will always be some round sink marks. There are two simple ways to remove them. The first one is to pour over some liquid putty and softly grind the sink marks with a sandpaper.

Glues

Old school modellers may remember the method of producing the glue by mixing nitro thinner with plastic sprues. Nitro melts plastic and such mixture can be used as glue. Nowadays, such methods are obsolete and not needed (unless someone really wants to go back to his or her youth years). Currently, there are many especially designed products available on the market.

Glues can be grouped into categories based on materials they glue together. There are classic plastic glues, two-binary glues, slit glues, cyanoacrylate for metal and resin elements and wood glues which may be useful for gluing the transparent parts. Some glues contain a thin needle for application, which can be warmed with a flame when blocked inside. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl

If the sink marks are in less visible places you can remove them with a round shaped knife and then grind them with a sandpaper. Sink marks appear only on one side of the sprues, most of the times in non-visible areas.

All glues are based on aggressive chemistry, even if they smell like citrus.

You must be cautious when using any glue, for example, cyanoacrylate can easily glue your fingers, too‌ Its fumes are very harmful to lungs and can

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matt transparent surfaces. If you are using this type of glue, you should also buy a special mixture to be able to remove it, it is so called debonder.

There are two kinds of glues I would like to especially focus on.

W ORKSHOP

Tamiya Extra Thin Cement (you can find its equivalents at other producers) is a slit glue. First of all, you put together two elements and then slide on the slit with a special brush added to the glue. Mixture delicately melts plastic and you have to wait a few moments for complete drying (with big elements it may take a few hours). To free your hands you can always help yourself by using Tamiya’s yellow tape. Below are some examples of securing the model during the glue drying.

Resin kit with photoetched parts kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl

Cyanoacrylate is ideal for uncommon materials such as resin and photo etched parts, as well as for normal plastic. There are three kinds of thickness, the runnier it is the quicker it dries, so the middle thickness seems to be ideal as we get a second for corrections. After complete drying of CA it can be ground like plastic and it can be used as a putty, too.

The best for applying the glue is thin, copper wire with a small loop, fitted to a comfortable handle. The smaller the loop, the smaller the glue drop.

The best way is to put a few drops of CA on a hard plastic surface, such as ear sticks container, which stops the glue from immediate drying so we can work with it for longer time.

Cyanoacrylate as a putty

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Supermarine

Ralph Riese Tamiya 1/32

Spitfire Mk.VIII

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Wing Commander Robert “Bobby” Gibbs was an Royal Australia Air Force ace who came to fame for his exploits while flying P-40s. After downing a Vichy French D.520 during the Syria-Lebanon Campaign, he went on to claim nine more Axis aircraft in North Africa. He was known for flying into battle while still injured and also for landing his plane in the desert to rescue a fellow pilot. Taking command of No.80 Wing at Morotai in January 1944, his Spitfire Mk.VIII featured his personal initials “RG” on the fuselage as well as 457 Squadron’s signature shark mouth and “Grey Nurse” nickname. From 1944 until the end of the war in August 1045, RAAF Mk.VIIIs supported mopping-up operations in New Guinea and the Dutch East Indies.

The kit was modelled to represent Supermarine Spitfire Mk.VIII, A58-602, RG-V, flown by Wing Commander Robert “Bobby” Gibbes, No.80 Wing, RAAF, while on station at Morotai Island in the Dutch East Indies in 1945.

Additional details were added to the kit cockpit from wire and plastic stock, using the BarracudaCast BR32002 Spitfire Cockpit Upgrade Set instructions as a guide. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl

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The cockpit upgrade set included a replacement control column and pilot’s oxygen hose. The kit-suppled seat was replaced with BarracudaCast BR32001Spitfire Seat w/Leather Backpad.

Kit-supplied PE harnesses were retained.

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Interior painting commenced with Tamiya’s XF-71 Cockpit Green and random earth tone postshading. Detail painting and weathering was done using thinned Vallejo Model Colour acrylics colours.

Interior parts were primed with Floquil’s Old Silver enamel kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl

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The RAF Temperate Fighter Scheme was painted using Tamiya’s XF-81, XF-82, XF-83 RAF Dark Green, Ocean Grey and Medium Sea Grey colours

Base colours were post-shaded for tonal variation using XF-25, XF-51 and XF-65 on the Dark Green; XF-19 and XF-22 on the Ocean Grey; and 1:1 XF-2:XF-19 and 4:1 XF1:XF-23 on the Medium Sea Grey. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl

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Aircraft markings were also painted using masks from Miracle Paint Masks

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Previous RAF fuselage and upper wing roundel areas were over-painted using “local RAAF” colours using darker shades of green and grey

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White main wing leading edges were added to complete the basic airframe painting

The masks for the intricate Grey Nurse shark mouth motif came in upper and lower engine cowl sections, each with separate lips, gums, teeth and throat parts. Eyes came in four parts.

Care was needed to align the upper and lower cowl teeth parts

Kit exhaust stubs were replaced with Quickboost QB32143 Spitfire Mk.VIII Exhaust-Fishtail and painted with Model Master Burt Iron Buffing Metalizer, washed with Vallejo Model Air 70826 German Cam. Black Brown, and drybrushed with 70998 Light Grey. Minor touch-ups to the eyes and teeth were done using Vallejo acrylic colours. Airframe weathering commenced with oil and enamel-based washes. AK Interactive AK303 Grey Wash for Kriegsmarine Ships enamel wash was applied to the underside recessed detail. MIG Abteilung Abt125 Light Mud oil wash was applied to the green areas and AK Interactive AK045 Dark Brown for Green Vehicles enamel wash around the engine areas and to the grey areas kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl

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Kit wing cannons were replaced with Master AM32016 Spitfire C Wing Hispano 20mm Cannons in Fairings, and wheels were replaced with BarracudaCast BR32010 Spitfire Z-Block 4 Slot Mainwheels. Earth effects were added to the wheels using MARU TECHNICS Easy Mud 21104 Pacific Beach (Buff).

Limited exhaust staining was applied using highly-thinned XF-19 followed by XF-52 and X-19. Restrained wing root chipping was added using thinned Vallejo acrylic colours, water-soluble Faber-Castell pencils, and a 2B graphite pencil. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl

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Before you start The kit: •• 1/32 Tamiya Supermarine Spitfire Mk.VIII (Item No 60320) Construction: • • The multimedia kit was assembled as per kit instructions. Some parts were replaced using aftermarket resin sets, and additional details were added to the cockpit using wire and plastic stock.

Enhancements, modifications, and aftermarket replacements: •• BarracudaCast BR32001 Spitfire Seat w/Leather Backpad •• BarracudaCast BR32002 Spitfire Cockpit Door with Separate Crowbar •• BarracudaCast BR32003 Spitfire Cockpit Upgrade Set and additional details from •• wire and plastic stock as per the set instructions •• BarracudaCast BR32010 Spitfire Z-Block 4 Slot Mainwheels •• Master AM32016 Spitfire C Wing Hispano 20mm Cannons in Fairings •• Quickboost QB32143 Spitfire Mk.VIII Exhausts-Fishtail Scale finish and weathering: •• The model was painted with Tamiya RAF Temperate Fighter Scheme acrylic colours and weathered using MIG oil paints AK Interactive enamel washes. Wear and tear was kept to a minimum.

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Commander of the 80th Wing and top ace of the RAAF – Clive ”Killer” Caldwell – posing near his Spitfire Mk. VIII coded CR-C (no. A58-484).

Morotai, January, 1945. Under the windscreen there are 27,5 victory marks – all of his career. Caldwell was also the only allied pilot who claimed victories over German, Italian and Japanese planes.

Spitfires Mk. VIII of 453nd RAAF Squadron (80th Wing) at Morotai airfield before departure to Tarajan. Both planes have their upper surfaces repainted with ”RAAF Foliage Green”, and lower surfaces with ”RAAF Sky Blue”. In the foreground there is a QY-U (no.

A58-510) piloted by R.J. Webb, in the background – QY-W (no. A58-532), which was lost on 30th of August, 1945, after F/Lt W.M. McCoombs was forced to land at sea due to the engine failure. Pilot survived. Morotai, 29th of May, 1945. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl

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Spitfire HF Mk. VIII coded RG-V (no. A58-602) – personal machine of the W/C Robert H.M. Gibbes. Morotai, March, 1945.

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Spitfire Mk. VIII coded DL-R (no. A58-360) of 54th RAF Squadron (1st Wing) during the refuelling. First part of the code – ”DL” – is in grey colour, which was used only in this particular unit. Darwin N.T., 1945.

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Spitfire LF Mk. VIII (no. A58-526; ex-MT552) named ”Avagrog” and coded UP-R of 79th RAAF Squadron, Morotai, second half of the year 1945.

The name on the cowling is the Australian colloquialism meaning ”have a beer”. Plane is in standard camouflage: Dark Green/Ocean Grey/ Medium Sea Grey.

Spitfires Mk. VIII of 79th RAAF Squadron parked on the Pitu (Morotai) airstrip. In the foreground there is a machine coded UP-R (no. A58-526), named ”Avagrog”. The first part of the inscription means: “Australian Victory Aircraft” (AVA), and the ”grog” is referred to the alcohol drink.

The whole word ”Avagrog” is the Australian ”pub language” colloquialism which stands for ”have a beer”. There is also a small letter ”R” visible under the propeller. In the background there is a UP-T (no. A58-509) Spitfire piloted by F/Lt W.J. Basey.

Both planes are in RAF camouflage: Dark Green/ Ocean Grey/Medium Sea Grey. Propeller cones are painted black. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl

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Spitfire LF Mk. VII coded UP-F (no. A58-517; ex-MT594) and named ”Hava-Go-Jo!!” of 79th RAAF Squadron, Morotai, beginnings of the year 1945. Machine was piloted by F/Lt Norm Smithells. The inscription under the elephant emblem was a slang version of the phrase: “Have a go, Jo” (Try to face me, Jo). ”Jo” is the humorous name for the Hideki Tojo, the prime minister of Japan in 1941–1944.

Spitfire Mk. VIII coded UP-F (no. A58-517) and named ”Hava-Go-Jo” of 79th RAAF Squadron. Machine has a pink elephant ”Jumbo” from Walt Disney’s cartoon painted before the windscreen. It was often piloted by F/Lt Norm Smithells. The propeller cone was in Medium Blue, which suggest the ”B” Flight. It was one of the few planes with whole vertical stabilizer pained white, which was commonly seen on the 5.

AAF planes. Morotai, June, 1945.

Spitfire LF Mk.VIII (A58-411, ex-JG611) coded QY-P, and nicknamed ”Betsy”, of No. 452 Squadron RAAF flown by F/O Peter Bullock; Sattler, North Australia, second half of the year 1944. Camouflage is made of Dark Green, Foliage Green and Sky Blue.

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Spitfire Mk. VIII coded QY-T (no. A58-516) of 452nd RAAF Squadron during the return flight from mission over the Halmahera. Machine is piloted by F/Lt L.S. Compton. Under the cockpit there are two victory marks visible. This Spitfire was lost on 17th of July, 1945, when it burnt completely on the Sepinggan (Balikpapan) airfield. Fortunately, pilot F/Sgt B.F. Gurney managed to get out of the cockpit in time.

Spitfire LF Mk.VIII (A58-435, ex-JG622) coded QY-T of No. 452 Squadron RAAF, flown by F/Lt William ”Ron” Cundy; Sattler, North Australia, break of the year 1944. Camouflage is made of Foliage Green and Sky Blue. Pegasus was pilot’s personal emblem. Cundy became an ace during North Africa campaign but he did not manage to face Japanese pilots.

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Spitfire Mk. VIII coded UP-B (no. A58-492) and named “Mac III” of 79th RAAF Squadron (80th Wing). It was piloted by F/O Hugh Kennare. The plane was previously coded UP-U, which can be seen on the photo. Later the “U” letter was changed to “B”. Propeller cone is in Medium Blue, which indicates “B” Flight. Morotai, end of May, 1945.

Spitfire LF Mk.VIII (A58-522, ex-MT514) coded UP-A, and nicknamed ”Hal-Far”, of No. 79 Squadron RAAF flown by F/Lt Leonard ”Len” Reid. The plane is one of the Malta’s defenders where it stationed in Hal-Far, which is memorialized by the personal name; Morotai, Dutch East India, 1945.

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DECALS /48, 1/72 1 , 5 3 / 1 : s le a in sc

VEHICLES

Joaquin García Gazquez

HOTCHKISS

H39

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VEHICLES

T

he Hotchkiss H 39 was a development of the H 35, the main improvement consisted on the adoption of a more powerful engine, apart from other slightly differences. This version can easily be distinguish because of the rear part of the engine, which is more voluminous and its horizontal instead of sloping outline.

The turret was made by AMX, being identical to the Renault R-35 y R-40 ones, it was armed with the 37 mm Sa38 L/21 gun, some H-39 were improved with the L/35 gun, such as the model of this article.

The crew was made up of only two men, the driver and the commander, which was a big problem as the commander had to take care of charging, aiming and shooting. All of this work could affect and reduce the general performance.

After the armistice the remaining vehicles were used by the Wehrmacht, as in their basic configuration, as improved or as base for self-propelled guns and command vehicles.

ASSEMBLy

The Bronco’s kit, was the first commercialized by the Chinese company. It is a good kit, although some aspects might get better, to obtain a more realistic reproduction.

To improve the model I used the photoedge sheet Eduard Ref. 35921, Hotchkiss H-39 (H) 1/35. At the beginning I was going to use the chains included in the kit but I changed my mind and used the Modelkasten’s “French Hotchkiss H35/39 Track“ ref.

SK-40, fine and easy to assemble.

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Comparing the kit with real information, we can observe that in the kit, the chassis casting of the front block’s welding, does not correspond to the real one. For that reason I had to erase it and make the appropriate one, using stretched plastic, textured with the soldering.

The tools are improved changing the handles by other made from round Evergreen, finally the photo edge‘s supports offer with the necessary fineness.

Another element that I had to relocate was the mudguard’s support. Both the hull and the casting’s turret are textured with Mr. Surfacer 500 applied with a thick bristle’s paintbrush.

The mudguard’s terminals are changed by the Eduard’s ones, finer and more realistic from the scale point of view

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VEHICLES

The undercarriage is detailed with rivets, plastic nuts, circular sections, etc. the return wheels’ support is detailed with plasticard and plastic rivets. Finally, the driving wheel’s foundry signatures are made with stretched thin plastic, textured with a blade.

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VEHICLES

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VEHICLES

PAINTING Base ColoUr The elected decoration, was seen in an interesting article from the magazine “Histoire de Guerre”, Nº 78, about the 14 BCC, with a number plate M40466, named “Alexandre”, which was commanded by the sub-lieutentant Barthelemy Arbona, boss in the 1st Section, 1st Company.

Reproducing this type of camouflage requires a good planning of the work, as well as the use of mixed techniques appropriate to the reproduced element.

We start applying the sand color, with Tamiya’s acrylics, it is obtained mixing two parts of XF59 “Desert Yellow” with one part of XF-60 “Dark Yellow”.

The model’s volumes are embossed applying two light raises. The first adding XF-55 “Deck Tan “to the base and the second, thinning the previous mixture with XF-2 “White”.

The green stains are done with Humbrol’s paintings applied with a paintbrush and mixing Matt Light Olive 86 and Matt Marine Green 105 into equal shares. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl

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VEHICLES

Two coats are applied, letting them dry for a two hours, covering perfectly the painted areas.

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VEHICLES

Another useful technique to do wavy camouflages of hard edges, consists on using putty to delimit the colours, in this case I used “Play-Doh”plasticine.

Above it, we apply the brown colour, resulting from the mix of Tamiya’s XF-64 “Red Brown”,with a drop of XF-59 “Desert Yellow”.

The French flag is easy to reproduce through masks, beginning with white…

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VEHICLES

…ending up with blue and red.

In this case, I had to paint the ace of spades in blue but I did not have the right decal, so I used one of an upside-down heart.

The rest was obtained from other decals, transferible “Decadry” for “Alexander”, etc.

To finish and let the model prepare for the ageing work, I sealed it all with a coat of Micro acrylic varnish, resulting from the mix of both glossy and matt.

This way, we obtain a slightly glossy and uniform surface ready for the ageing process kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl

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With masks and Tamiya’s acrylics, I did the necessary work until the right Hotchkiss’ symbol was obtained.

VEHICLES

weathering PROCESS The “1940 French” campaign, was short but much more cruel than what has been related,the vehicles had no time to suffer from an extreme ageing, because the campaign was short. However, we had to reflect the intense use, as well as the dirtiness and the environment where the combats took place.

When making a model, we do not need to apply everything we know but, to adapt our techniques to the wanted result. In my case, I always try to obtain a natural and realistic result as I explain in the following step by step.

As usual, I start applying a general dirty coat. In this case, mixing Humbrol’s 26 Khaki and 170 Brown Bess enamels.

To enrich the model with tonality, we apply an oil paintings treatment, dividing the palette into two zones, one for the colours used in the dirtiest areas and the other for the base colours:

Once the process is finished, it shows a dirty, tarnished and monotonous aspect.

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Then I remove some of it, imitating vertical spouts, cleaning up those areas where the crew was more active.

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VEHICLES

Alteration Base Colour Yellow Ochre 88 (T) Olive Green 050 (Abt) Olive Green 73 (T) Transparent Yellow 281 (R) Red Naples Yellow 224 (R) Fadded Navy Blue 030 (Abt) Yellow Ochre 88 (T) Natural Shadow Earth 74 (T) Transparent Pink Earth 98 (T)

Alteration Dusty Areas Light Mud 125 (Abt) Dark Mud 130 (Abt) Sepia 416 (R) Wash Brown 080 (Abt) Toasted Shadow Earth 409 (R) Natural Shadow Earth 74 (T) Transparent Pink Earth 98 (T)

(R) – Rembrandt; (T) – Titan; (Abt) 501 Abteilung.

Next, we outline the details, insisting on the hatches and usable areas.

To raise the contrast, some punctual areas are revised again with the base colour, especially those where the crew is more active.

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VEHICLES

The tools are painted with Vallejo’s acrylics, imitating the wood’s grain. The metallic parts are painted with Humbrol’s black enamel bronzed with dust graphite.

…and I fix it with oils diluted in Humbrol thinner.

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To paint the chipping, it’s necessary to have clear that the base color was the olive green, to obtain it; I mixed Vallejo acrylic 892 Yellow Olive and 914 Green Ochre, for the deepest chipping, I mix 950 Black with 982 Cavalry Brown.

Once I dry the result is perfect.

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The pigments are the best way to imitate heavy and accumulated earth and dust in a model. In this case I was used European Dust P028, Gulf War Sand P037 and Dark Mud P033, all of Mig Productions. I put it with a brush in the places where accumulations want to be imitated powder and land…

VEHICLES

The grease and oil spots, are imitated by artistic oil paint “Asphalt” by Titan, it’s important to locate it in the places capable of accumulating grease, the logic and the observation of real images, they were indicating us where to apply it.

The bottom parts was worked the same way, insisting more with the pigments and dirt of accumulated earth and dry mud.

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VEHICLES

The Figure It’s by Nemrod, one of the includes in the item 35024 “Tankistes Français 1940 2 fig.”. It was enhanced with a hornet head for obtain more expressivity, also I add a Tamiya french helmet, and the side protectors was made with tin sheet, using as pattern, those of the original head.

The figure was painted with Vallejo acrylics. For the leather cape, I prepared a mixing of 940 Saddle Brown, 872 Chocolate Brown and 861 Glossy Black, which there will give a bit of satin finish, perfect for the leather. For the highlights I add 911 Light Orange. For the downlights, I apply very soft glazes with Glossy Black mixing with 950 Black.

Also it’s necessary to sand well the fins of the cast and to fill with putty, some pores and joints.

The “waste” under the foot was model with Magic Sculpt putty.

For the trousers, I prepared a mix with 887 Brown Violet, and 880 Khaki Gray, for the lights I add more Khaki Gray and 845 Sunny Skin Tone. It was shaded adding Brown Violet and Chocolate Brown.

I have used to paint he face, my standard basic mixture, departing from a base with 876 Brown Sand, lightening for the lights with 845 Sunny Skin Tone, and shading adding 921 English Uniform and 817 Scarlet. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl

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VEHICLES

the Base Any model wins very much in a base aptly worked, It’s not necessary to do a complex work, sometimes a very simple but well worked, it’s enough to show better our model, in this case I did a minimalist base, but carefully painted for perform with its function.

The painting work starts airbrushing Tamiya acrylic XF-52 “Flat Earth”.

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The materials used are very simple, wood base acquired in a fine arts shop of suitable dimensions, and the Tamiya sheet “ Diorama Sheet (Stone Paving A) “ Ref. 66592. The base was painted in black with Citadel primer spray “Chaos Black”.

The Tamiya sheet was cut and glued to the base, once dry, I apply a pair of white glue diluted with water, to hard it for the later paint treatments.

After, I drybrushing with Humbrol 067 Matt Tank Grey, heightening the paving stone texture. With Vallejo acrylics, in several gray tones some cobblestones for add a variety colors.

With artist oils I add dirty and color variations to the base.

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VEHICLES

Once placed the vehicle, they are given the last touches, with oil asphalt, there are imitated the vehicles grease and oil spots, with pigments I imitate dust, dirt and earth, the leaves are pods of birch, glued with white glue.

Once dry, with XF-57 “Buff”, I airbrush a few bands of treads, to imitate the planned of vehicles and rolled traffic.

The Modelkasten tracks were placed at the end of the whole process, they are painted with XF-52 “Flat Earth” applied with airbrush, later it was drybrushing with silver color, in the polished zones for rubbing, some washes with earthy oils diluted with Humbrol thinner and pigments, give the final touch.

Finals

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VEHICLES

Diverse tests, and don’t to stick the hand supported of the figure on the train of filming, until the end, guarantee a natural support of the figure in the vehicle.

The weathering must to go according to the different vehicle parts, the degree is not equal of dirtied in the bottoms and road wheels, that in the upper zones of the vehicle.

The exhaust is necessary to work, with oxide pigments I and washes with Titan artistic oil Transparent Brown Oxide 75.

Bibliography: Focus No. 5, Hotchkiss H39, Pascal Danjou, Editions du Barbotin.

Histoire de Guerre, Nr 78 ”14e Bataillon de Chars de Combat”. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl

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Hubert Michalski

The H39 tank colours

A

fter building 400 of H35 tanks, the French

Literature, and history enthusi-

company Hotchkiss released the first, and

asts called them ”types”. Every

the only one modification of that vehicle,

variant of colour was applied on tanks in their home factory.

better known under its army name “char léger modéle 1935 H modifié 1939” or – rarely used, shorter, factory

The first camouflage type –

version – “char léger modéle 1938 série D”. Due to the

used on H35 tanks with chassis

impracticality of both names, modified vehicles were

numbers from 40001 to 40220

simply named H39 and accepted by the French army

– was made with two shades:

on the 18th of February 1939.

sand and green, usually sepa-

The main visual difference between H39 and H35

rated from each other with a

tanks was the shape of engine compartment which was

black line.

changed because of using a more powerful 120 HP en-

Second type of camouflage

gine. After building about one hundred of H39 tanks,

showed some advantages of H39’s modifications, and

used on H35 tanks (chassis number from 40229 to

Hotchkiss made another modification, this time to add

for this reason the French commandment also ordered

40400) consisted of five colours: yellow, green, brown,

some firepower, a short-barrelled SA18 cannon (cal. 37

the same upgrade for some of H35 tanks (only without

maroon and grey. Often, these colours were separated

mm) was changed to a long-barrelled SA37 type with

changing the engine). According to the archive photos

with a black line.

the same calibre. Simultaneously, so called “tails” were

these modifications were carried out as requested.

As from the chassis number 40401 (first H39 vehicle),

added at the back of the vehicle. These were useful for

A few years of production saw H35 and H39 tanks

the third type of camouflage came out. It consisted of

crossing anti-tank obstacles (e.g. wide ditches). Tests

painted with at least 6 different camouflage schemes.

only two colours: green and light grey. The colour transi-

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tions, same as before, were usually separated with a thin,

the mentioned types. Most of them replenished Weh-

Bibliography

black line but it wasn’t a must. The last known H39 tank

rmacht forces. Archive photos show that overwhelm-

Jentz L. Thomas, Regenberg Werner, Beute-Pan-

with the third type of camouflage was the vehicle with

ing number of captured H35/H39 tanks (and other

zerkampfwagen, Boyds 2007.

chassis no. 40668.

vehicles built on their chassis) was overpainted to the

Danjou Pascal, Hotchkiss H39, La Deniserie 2009.

standards fitting those from Panzertruppen.

Danjou Pascal, Hotchkiss H35/H39, Ballainvilliers 2009.

Probably from H39 chassis no. 40692 (to no. 40900) the fourth type of camouflage showed up. It was made with light green and dark grey colours. Both were

Web

painted with smooth transitions between each other,

http://www.chars-francais.net

without the thin, black line.

http://www.atf40.fr

There was also a batch of H39 tanks (chassis numbers from 40913 to 40965) which received another type of camouflage, consisting of three colours: light green, brown and grey. The transition between colours was soft

http://www.missing-lynx.com Hotchkiss H39 from 1st section, 1st company of 14th BCC; France 1940.

and void of black transition line.

The last, sixth type of camouflage used on H39 tanks from chassis no. 40957 to 41200 (and further), was the one made of two colours: dark grey and brown. Same as with the fourth and the fifth type, the colours were applied with wavy transitions, without separating them with a thin, black line.

A different story of H35/H39 tanks camouflage history is their duty in German army. It is estimated that after the defeat of France in 1940, Germans were able to overhaul about 600 vehicles of kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl

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