Travel

French Kiss

On a palm-fringed tropical island in the Pacific, a little piece of Paris has found its home. Say bonjour to Noumea, says Brenda Ward.

In front of the Chateau Royale hotel on Anse Vata beach, there’s an elderly Frenchman who sings as he strolls along the sand. This modern-day Maurice Chevalier croons as he passes the girls in chic bikinis, the children paddling in the warm shallows, and lovers relaxing in the swim-up bar at the hotel’s ocean-front pool. I’m in love with the sound of that gentle voice, as I find myself immersed in the French culture that overlays this Pacific paradise. Noumea is the largest city in New Caledonia, and Anse Vata is one of the best beaches. On this palm-lined strip of sand and its wide promenade, you’ll always find people jogging, a busy petanque area, and a small friendly market set up on a Wednesday. Over the road, there are pearl shops, boutiques, bars, and charming eateries serving everything from continental breakfasts to Vietnamese snacks, and crepes to ice creams.

Croissants and coffee

Come hungry to Noumea if you enjoy French food. In the morning, wander to your nearest bakery for the crispest croissants and a milky coffee. For lunch, head to the market to pick up fresh poisson cru (fish marinated in lime and cucumber) and devour it by the water with a loaf of crusty rustic bread. Then for dinner, make a reservation at one of the finest restaurants on the bay, Le Roof. Here, you dine in an overwater eatery, savouring one stunning course after another as you peek below at the reef sharks and stingrays that swim in the spotlight, metres below your table. Shop at a local grocery store for that special

bottle of burgundy, just NZ$19, compared to NZ$70 in a New Zealand wine shop, and pick up a wheel of French brie for small change. Buses into the city are inexpensive. Take one that weaves past the marina and turnof-the-century colonial mansions, with cool, classic verandas, shutters, and authentic French doors. Noumea’s centre is built around a park-like square, the Place du Cocotiers, where palm trees line pathways, and you can pop into one of the bistros for a light snack while you shop. Or you might want to save your money for French fashion: Parisian shoes, jeans and suits, high-end sportswear at good prices, and the most delicate peignoirs and fancy Parisian knickers from the lingerie shops. Shops may look dark and closed, but venture in; they’re deliciously airconditioned so you can escape the heat. Beware, they’ll close around lunchtime when staff head out for a sensible break and a big meal, and then reopen later, staying open until six. The rule is, swim early, shop later. If you’re staying in an apartment, a whole world of wonderful food opens for you a short walk from Anse Vata beach where you’ll find a supermarket with a dazzling array of imported delights. A can of cassoulet or couscous tastes restaurant-quality when it’s reheated in your apartment, or buy a baguette, saucisson (sausage), and brie for an inexpensive and charming lunchtime picnic. If you’re in Anse Vata there’s a deli which sells complete meals, again restaurant quality – because when the customers are French, they demand the best. So, if your budget isn’t Parisian, your holiday still can be. Surrounded by Peugeots, Citroens, and other European cars all driving on the right, with the sound of a Frenchman’s voice luring you to the beach, discover la vie belle just three hours from Auckland.

Note: Flights to New Caledonia are currently suspended but expected to resume on 31 October.