The Book of Blogerfeld

The Book of Blogerfeld Edited by On a Wim Studios with essays by Karl Blogerfeld

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The Book of Blogerfeld

Book design by On a Wim Studios Dedication: This book is dedicated to PBK Acknowlesgements: Such a book would not have been possible without the internet.

Big up the internet for sure.

First published in February 2013 by On a Wim Studios in collaboration with DM Press Cover image: F. Zmetra by Parker Fitzgerald Table of Contents: Untitled by Robert Moses Joyce Introduction left: Unknown Introduction right: Raf Simons

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Americana Dreaming Role Models Street Steezin Indigo Children On a Whimsy Animal Instinct The Finer Things Drugs Teen Witch

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Introduction This is The Book of Blogerfeld, a deep meditatation on the themes and trends that we have covered up till the two year anniversary of Blogerfeld style.

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Clockwise from top: untitled by Tamara Lichtenstein Caravan kids by Jennifer Stocks Book Of Maps by MiquiBrightside America the Beautiful by benmillerphotography Flagmin by YACHT Page 4: untitled by feaverish Pages 6/7: THE WHITE HOUSE ON FLICKR

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AM ERICANA DREAM I NG

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Americana (noun) materials concerning or characteristic of America, its civilization, or its culture; broadly: things typical of America

Americana represents a style of design that is highly reflective of the history of America, and the philosophies of its residents. It is a beautiful marriage of high and low in a way that could only be done by a postold-money society. Like many things in America, its roots can be tied to those of the American dream, the notion that one can pull oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s self up from the dregs of society to the very top.

Americana style references the harsh, rigid, efficient geometry of modernism, but breaks with its ethos, and therefore is able to shift the aesthetic in directions that are an affront to the true modernist ethic.

Modernist designers were utopian idealists, attempting to create a better way of life through the combination of science and visual communication. For this reason, they formed a style that avoided subjective communication elements favoring instead clear, logical strategies for transmitting ideas. While the Americana aesthetic takes the same efficiency as a root, the reason it is chosen is different. The modernist toolkit is used with optimal manufacture in mind. It is then adorned with rich colors as a way of promoting an American ideal, that of the individual. Americana adds life and personality to the cold, deadpan delivery of modernism. For an inexpensive price, consumers can have their own high-design pieces that speak directly to them.

It is with good reason that the flag is taken on as a recurring element in Americana works. It harkens back to the aforementioned proclivity for individualism. It is a symbol of our pride in being who were are. We are different. We are superior. We are US. Next Post >>

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Above: Cam’Ron and Juelz Santana Opposite: Fendi Page 10: untitled by Kasia Bobula Page 11 top: Lana Del Rey Page 11 bottom: THE WHITE HOUSE ON FLICKR

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Opposite top: Border Crossing Opposite bottom: Flag by Reuben Wu Above: Untitled

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Left: THE WHITE HOUSE ON FLICKR 3 Below: Irina by MiquiBrightside

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Clockwise from top: Paris Hilton Natalia Vodianova Grimes Page 110: LiLo Pages 112/113: Karl Blogerfeld

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Role Models

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Role Model (noun) a person whose behavior, example, or success is or can be emulated by others, especially by younger people.

The problems with accepting another human has a total role model is that they are, by definition human. They will have failings just like the rest of us. At the point of those failings, a psychic split must happen to maintain oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s world view. Either, one must depose the idol as an ever correct beacon of perfection, ultimately transforming them into an ugly flawed vessel in contrast to their previous position, or one must learn to love their failed actions.

This can be seen in the case of witch house icon and former Disney channel star Lindsay Lohan. Once a shining example, her image has been tarnished through her bouts with substance abuse and flirtation with the penal system. While her star has faded as a result of the reduced attention from those who view her as broken, others have taken her as a prime example of the glory brought on by a complete devotion to hedonistic tendencies. This is her connection to the witchhouse movement. She is the modern poster child of the heroin/grunge/ nihilistic ethos that filled the 90s and is now being retro-fetishised by the current subculture.

Our celebrity narrative at this point has evolved from a state of idol study to one of hate-watching. Media companies feed off of the failures of others, moments that bring celebrities down to the level of the rest of us humans. There are the Oprahs of the world who skirt this, but many more fall to the role of Kim Kardashian, the butt of constant jokes by those with less taste than wit.

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Page 114 clockwise from top: Ice Cube Freja Beha Erichsen Method Man Sasha Pivovarova Clockwise from top: Alice Glass A$AP Rocky & Iggy Azelia David Lynch

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Camâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Ron.gif

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Clockwise from top: Lil B Prince The Olsen Twins Alice Glass

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LDR.Gif

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Clockwise from top: Kate Moss Kate Moss Kate Moss

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I Don’t Know Cuz I’m a G Clockwise from top: The Olsen Twins with Karl Lana Del Rey Bambi Northwood Daphne Groeneveld

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Clockwise from top: Nargis by Cocks and Desmarais Christopher Kane Kenneth Anger Page 94: . by Alex Porter Pages 96/97: Zebra Katz by SOAKED IN SOUL

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Street Steezin

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Steez (noun) Style with ease. Originally from the song Shadowboxin by GZA and Method Man when Meth says: “slip the cardiac arrest me, excorcist hip-hop posess me/crunch a nigga like a nestle, you know my steez” What would a conversation on high-low fashion be without a look at street wear influenced styles. Street wear is an interesting avenue because it is a low fashion informed by a culture that pulled conventions from high in an attempt to raise its own value. It was not in a method meant to merely copy the outside styles, but instead to comment on them in a way that relates back to the American dream. Street wear allows the owner to mimic high fashions but with labels that have a closer personal connection. It allows the creator to imagine him or herself the head of a renowned fashion house, a self-made style king or queen. In addition, it apes the outer form of high culture while doing away with the construction concerns such as bespoke creation.

The established fashion royalty have taken an interest into the aesthetic of more casual street styles as well. These come in the forms of big prints as well as bright colorful motifs. The case is of course harder to argue from high to low rather than low to high. The low culture had an established basis for borrowing because it is in the nature of the culture to use sampling and parody as tools for the recontextualization of texts.

Still, it is impossible to deny at least some vestigial interest that the high fashion world has in street wear.

Street wear provides an important alternate hierarchical system within the fashion world to the traditional label system. It gives an outlet to those who have a strong sense of style, but do not wish to live within the confines of the more strictly defined rules that have been built throughout fashion’s illustrious history.

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I Don’t Know Cuz I’m a G Page 98: untitled by lamontmelcker Page 99: Ladik Like Pictureplane by iksanov Clockwise from top: Chill Wave is Dead If You Do it for Loot The Emperors New Groove

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Clockwise from top: Gianni Versace Gucci Express Yourself

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Clockwise from top: Ricardo Tisci Charlotte Free Sniff Glue Worship Satan Unknown Billy Kidd

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Clockwise from top: Adobe Sluts Seapunk Karrah Kobus by sara kiesling twodicks katie eary

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Clockwise from top: end of summer by cybele malinowski Gianna, Germany, by Claudio Oliverio Carlos Andres Vallejo Page 62: Valeria Lukyanova Pages 64/65: Cosmos by Sarah Sitkin

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INDIGO CHILDREN

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Indigo Child (noun) Children who are believed to possess special, unusual and sometimes supernatural traits or abilities.

I suppose I should start off by addressing the fact that the definition of indigo children used here is an abstraction based on the original definition. Rather than the direct idea of children who are born gifted with supernatural abilities, we use an archetype designed off of the supposed signifiers of an indigo child. These include the belief that they are empathetic, curious, strong-willed, independent, and often perceived by friends and family as being strange; possess a clear sense of selfdefinition and purpose; and a strong feeling of entitlement, or â&#x20AC;&#x153;deserving to be hereâ&#x20AC;?.

As a result, we have altered the definition of indigo child to generally encompass self-exposure obsessed internet denizens who often take on new-age spiritual culture as an element of identity, sometimes incorporating fringe theories as central pillars of being. Indigo Children engage the gaze with full force. They bathe in the pale computer screen glow of the attention of masses of internet users. Their constructed identities are veneers applied for the sake of creating a unique self.

Prime examples of the indigo child style include Dakota Rose, and Valeria Lukyanova. Both have pushed their aesthetic into the realm of the uncanny valley, revealing an internal post-human idea of beauty.

They are compared to real life photoshopped images, reinforcing the connection between them and an alternate concept of reality in which people are modified by their interaction with technology to create a new sense of being.

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Clockwise from top: Gyary Fashion i-D Katie Eary Bubble Girl Isabel Marat

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Clockwise from top: Lemonade Mercedes by Ivan M. Trejo Femen

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Clockwise from top: Jean Paul Gautier Stella Stevens Valeria Lukyanova Brooke Shaden

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Clockwise from top: undisciplined words by massimo ankor танцующий петербург Ginger

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Clockwise from top: Alberta Ferretti Unknown Barbie

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Clockwise from top: Laundry with Projection by Marlon Kowalski The Gate by jrej Tumblr is my home now Page 78: seine et marne by Melchior Tersen Pages 80/81: hassan by indisposable

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On a Whimsy

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Whimsy (noun) Playfully quaint or fanciful behavior or humor.

One may get the sense, given the litany of â&#x20AC;&#x153;darkerâ&#x20AC;? topics covered in this book, that the Karl Blogerfeld style is one that is completely filled by grim themes. This is not the case. In fact, it is necessary to pay attention to the whimsy that can be found throughout the posts on the blog. There are numerous images that celebrate the happier side of both magical and chance situations.

The dichotomy of dark and light is an essential narrative driving force within the Blogerfeld world. It is a pairing that has the importance of the high/low styles of Americana. The contrast allows us to view each on more clearly. In addition their combination can allow one to serve as a commentary on another through the use of irony.

The dark represents a more controlled, finished product. One that has been manipulated to the point of being immobile. Whimsical works take on a more free feel. They feel open to reworking, reinterpretation.

They point to the world at large beyond that of an image. Through their focusing of attention, they draw the viewer into a larger field of view. This is unlike the dark products that are stuck in their own finished worlds.

This is not to promote the inhereent supremacy of one or the other.

Rather, it is to demonstrate the function that their duality serves. It allows one to gain a sense for the entirety of the image, rather than locking it into just one specific world to inhabit on its own.

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Above: Unicorn Opposite: untitled by da silva pflug

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Clockwise from top: untitled by leah bernhardt untitled by darkshapes untitled by .L.M.S.

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Clockwise from top: untitled by angeles peña Iceland Rainbow by vicmontol untitled by OhhhLordy untitled by margaret durow

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Opposite: Ignacio Torres Stellar Above: Unknown

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Clockwise from top: untitled by sleep, dream untitled by slash slash n.polek untitled by лёд 9

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Clockwise from top: . by neon.tambourine jean paul by synchrodogs . by Natasha Klimchuk Afro-poodle Page 18: 590 by jan postma Pages 20/21: untitled by Paula Lycan

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ANIMAL INSTINCT

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Instinct (noun) a natural or innate impulse, inclination, or tendency.

I look at pictures of cats on the internet. I do. I guess that makes me a normal human or something since, like smoking weed, everyone does it. I mean, I don’t go to those sites that are pages upon pages of LOLCats, or cute cat pic tumblrs or anything, but if I see a picture of a cat, dog, etc. on my dash, it might just get a reblog. What is it about animals that is so fascinating? Is it that we see ourselves reflected in them in a strange way? That we see little, less-than-genius, people running around and feel that we can relate to them? Is it merely our projection of human qualities onto them, or is there really something of ourselves to see in the actions of animals?

The answer to these questions is ultimately irrelevant, because whether projected or genuine, we find an interesting connection in our interactions with animals. There is a real magnetic appeal to images of animals doing human things. It is endearing (“aww look, he/she is doing people things!”).

The inverse is an interesting situation, one that is not always treated so warmly. Humans imitating animals is a more dubious game.

While the cat costume has been a staple “sexy” look for some time, animal play runs the risk of entering the entirely too creepy realm of furrydom. Furrydom implies that the interest in not in a human-animal connection, but instead more on the side of an animal attraction carried out in terms that are more permissible in our culture. I saw more here because furries are absolutely not considered “mainstream”.

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Clockwise from top: untitled by nachtfalter.silvie untitled by Rowena Waack Unknown 16092010 by Hudsalva Page 24: Miss-Stress by Michal Pudelka Page 25: Annie Phillips

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Clockwise from top: untitled by 4NI4 Huskies in Snow The Amazing Flying Cat

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Clockwise from top: untitled by valitova untitled by clair_voyant Poodle Jump Rope

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Husky.gif

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Clockwise from top: henry 4 by Melchior Tersen Petit by louPasc Alida Chelli Corey Smith

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I Don’t Know Cuz I’m a G Clockwise from top: Cat Burglar Hello Kitty at BofA Givenchy

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Clockwise from top: chrisrobinsonphotography tania by roman.noven untitled by Shane Connolly untitled by ada hamza

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Left to right: Fashion, by Claudio Oliverio MMM Rap Sumo Page 130: Masha by the_Yukka Pages 132/133: Alex_bling_bling.jpg

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The Finer Things

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Bling-bling (noun) flashy jewelry worn especially as an indication of wealth.

When I was growing up, there was a story that Shaq had paid some exurbanite amount of money to have the term “Bling” put into the dictionary. While I now know that isn’t how dictionaries work, it made for a nice story. The word did, in fact, enter dictionaries even if the previous story was less than real and while its rise and fall cycle in hip-hop culture wasn’t the longest, it still appears on the blogs and in the magazines of fashion writers. Bling has come to stand for any sort of ostentatious form of jewelry worn in a post-ironic genuineness.

While the meaning of the word may have changed, the symbols that it represents remain the same.

If we are to take the idea of fashion as the literal adornment of your identity, then I think the areas of jewelry and fur are particularly interesting avenues. Jewelry follows the same material basis as armor, and yet is seen as serving a completely different function. Armor is placed within the bounds violence and low society, whereas jewelry falls into polite, high society. In addition it provides interesting post-human entailments, the fusion of a person’s form with metal elements.

Is fur murder? Sure, murder on the wallet. In fact, murder on the upkeep too. Yes, the fur trade does have some awful practices, but what about vintage fur? This line is less clear than some in the world would like to draw it. Then there is fake fur as well. If it helps your conscience, think that all of the fur pieces worn in this section were created through ethical processes. This isn’t a book on right and wrong, it is a book on the style of Karl Blogerfeld. This isn’t a morals contest.

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Pages 134/135 clockwise from top: Diamonds are a bother. by Sunna Ben Together Apart by Michal Pudelka Faux Chanel Clockwise from top: The Vanity Fair by lindsay gray Love Magazine Lil B Taskforce юрий антонов

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Clockwise from top: Slick Rick Unknown Unknown Unknown

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Clockwise from top: Lauren Brie Jewish Rosary untitled by miranda lehman

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Opposite: Plastic Fantastic Above: Fabio Raineri

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I Don’t Know Cuz I’m a G Clockwise from top: Unknown Maxime Ballesteros Don’t Make Sense

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Clockwise from top: Nancy Acid Freak self-portrait with the help of a human tripod lorène by michel nguie Page 40: _ KRIST3N by P//RETTY P U K E Pages 42/43: pillows by fake domain name

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DRUGS

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Drugs (noun) a chemical substance used in the treatment, cure, prevention, or diagnosis of disease or used to otherwise enhance physical or mental well-being.

It is easy to see the lasting impact the psychedelic counter culture movement of the 1960s had on our culture at large. It created an entire subculture complete with its own verbal, visual and aural language. Through the time since, this subculture has been continually evolving, breaking, reforming, splitting. The current version has two ideologically opposed minds that are at war with one another, with actual participants generally falling somewhere in between.

There are those who believe drugs are a central end to a means in a way that goes beyond their directly observable bodily effects. They profess to the greater power that the chemicals allow them to tap into. They are the remaining vestige of the hippie movement of the 60s, considered soft-minded and rarely granted genuine attention.

The other group is those who view the chemicals as a social enhancer.

They see no potential for drugs beyond their readily apparent physical effects. They are viewed by the first group as being shallow, as not examining the possibilities of the situation. They are criticized as being the drug movementâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s embodiment of capital consumerist culture. They seek the immediate of their artifice and look for nothing beyond that.

As noted before, most users fall between these two poles, finding a middle ground with which they are comfortable. As is seemingly always the case, no perfect 100% definition seems to adequately describe the situation. While drugs may pose some potential benefits for the users, the chances are slim that they are worthy of the first groupâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s high praise.

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Pills Pressure.gif

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Page 46: Cross Pills Page 47: Pill Head Clockwise from top: Jesus Lives Bob Dob Mariel Bennett Page 50: Jesus Dranks Page 51: Mr Rogers

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Above: Lilo Opposite: fields of Dreams Pages 54/55: sweet dreams by 42andpointless

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Clockwise from top: Unknown Pink Mushrooms LSD is Fun Billmatic Zoolander Dinosaur Bones

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Clockwise from top: a$ap Rocky - Peso Cocaine Ecstasy Pills for Jesus

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Clockwise from top: . by neon.tambourine Daniele Buetti Goth Asain bathe by bethfromabove Daniele Buetti Page 148: Unknown Pages 150/151: twodicks

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Teen Witch

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Witch (noun) a person, now especially a woman, who professes or is supposed to practice magic, especially black magic or the black art

The teen witch is the corner-stone of the Karl Blogerfeld style. The witch is a combination of high and low styles, of light and dark. Witches can be minimal, or then can be ornately adorned. The pull towards witch styles first came from an interest in the music genre witch-house. The style’s low-fi, 90s referencing aesthetics, and strange blend of hedonistic and nihilistic influences make it a rich cultural subject that can entered from many angles. The addition of the web lead to a diverse radicant formation which produced more diffuse genre walls.

The teen witch is the complete essence of adolescent rebellion. Through the application of that identity archetype, the person first rejects standard fashion conventions. The witch as a historical figure obviously takes a position that leans heavily away from the community, but the symbol can be interpreted even further. Witches were early examples of rights leaders in identity politics. They were independent women who wished to take on a life that was defined away from their traditional societies in which they were strictly bound by gender roles. The notion of magic furthers the idea of rebellion. It is rebellion from the very idea of a limited observable reality. It opens up the idea that the impossible could in fact be possible, accessing Allister Crowley’s idea of “As above, so below”. It places the individual at the helm, as commander of his or her own world. For a teen who is just beginning to realize the control that is exerted on his or herself, putting the self at the forefront is a brave act.

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Opposite: Daniele Buetti Above: Felice Fawn

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Clockwise from top: II by Sarah Sitkin kalda by Saga untitled by A.Moltini OZ Chelsea Wolfe

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Clockwise from top: 666 <3 by JOLIE MA Feeling Super Suicidal Seto Ayumi Pages 158/159: Neon Tambourine

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Opposite: my friend clarkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ex girlfriend Above: The Widow by Rekanyari Pages 162/163 Clockwise from top: Witchcraft Paris, 09 11 by Jael Levi untitled by DRUNKEN C GVCCI HVCCI

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Clockwise from top: Faith by Nebulaskin untitled by mercedesbeach You light up my life by Timothy Neesam

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Clockwise from top: Tumblr Collages Black and White Magic Unknown Nya Nya Nya Unknown Unknown Pages 168/169 Clockwise from top: untitled by nequest untitled by jamespayden untitled by miranda lehman untitled by Rosa Methol untitled by JordanStrong untitled by this doesn’t count

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Get the definitive word from timeless taste makers Karl Blogerfeld on such gripping topics as: Soft Grunge, Witch House, Sea Punk, Chill Wave, Americana, Celebrity CULTure, and Cat Pictures