Where the WAW makes you go WOW, golfing along the Wild Atlantic Way in Ireland.

A Golf Pilgrimage Along 


THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

WHERE THE WAW TURNS TO WOW!

Golf along the North West Coast of Ireland, part of the Wild Atlantic Way makes you go ‘WOW’ It’s hard to put your finger on it but there is something special about links golf in Ireland. One day you’re layering up as the wind howls down from the North pole and your cheeks become all rosy. The next day, the waterproofs come out as the Atlantic throws a few passing showers at you but then that third day … you wake up and, hold on, there’s something different. You look outside and the sky is blue as far as the eye can see and the landscape bursts out in fifty shades of green. You can hear the birdsong and the waves of the ocean gently lapping onto the beach. The course is out in front of you with towering dunes, upturned saucer greens, pot bunkers and it still gets you but, after your round, when you’re adding up your score in the clubhouse in front of the peat fire and the waitress brings a steaming bowl of chowder and a plate of sandwiches to the table … and your mate goes: “Wanna pint?”

There … that’s it … golf doesn’t get much better than that.

The Wild Atlantic Way is one of the cleverest Irish marketing initiatives ever. It is a coat hanger for every tourism offering along that at times rugged but oh so beautiful north western coastline. There is a collective of golf courses within the North & West Coast Links Golf organisation and they provide tailor-made golf itineraries for groups and individuals. It was on one of those trips that a group of fellow golf journalists and myself went on early May this year.

GAME OF STROKES First, we headed north to Game of Thrones Country and started our golf journey way north at Castlerock GC. After a proper Sunday lunch, an Irish tradition, we tackled the recently remodelled links along the River Bann on opposite sides of the Irish Open venue Portstewart.

Martin Hawtree was asked to look at a few bunkers which were deemed unfair and ended up changing a number of holes late last year, as one does. Now everything is embedded and there is hardly any sign of any work carried out, the links plays as it’s always done, fast and bouncy. It’s not a massive course but like any links course, the wind is always a factor and can quickly turn gentle par 4’s into 5-shotters.

The viewpoint on the 17th tee showcases all the humps and bumps and undulations on the course and late in the afternoon, it was a magical sight. There is also a 9 hole short course, equal in quality and popular with locals, kids and people that want to brush up on their approach shots.

We stayed overnight in Derry at the Bishops Gate Hotel within the fortified walls of the city.

The place was hopping and the craic was mighty.

BALLYLIFFIN, PORTSALON and DONEGAL Day 2 and we’re heading up the Inishowen Peninsula and to Ballyliffin, county Donegal. The Glashedy Links at Ballyliffin is one of two courses, the other one being the Old Course, and is ranked in the top 10 of Irish courses by GolfDigest. What can I say, it is one of my favourite courses in the world. Designed by Pat Ruddy and Tom Craddock, the Glashedy tells you the story of links golf in Ireland and how they got things done. Back in the day when golf was members’ golf, there was a requirement for tourism golf but with planning becoming more stringent, Pat Ruddy, just from building his own European Club, advised the membership to rather build a second world class links in the extensive dune land next to the Old Course and worry about improving bunkering on the Old Course later. This turned out to be a master stroke as it put Ballyliffin firmly on the golfing map. It’s a brilliant layout and will satisfy golfers of all levels. The bunkering is wicked and there’s always one to catch your ball whether you’re playing downwind or against the wind. The putting surfaces are perfect and if you can’t hole putts on these, there is a pro available.

About 15 km as the crow flies but a 90 km road trip as on opposite sides of Lough Swilly, such is the nature of traveling along the WAW, lies Portsalon Golf Club. One of the founding members of the Golfing Union of Ireland, the club started modestly back in 1891. Upgrades by Pat Ruddy and more recently by Paul McGinley, have brought the links up to modern standards. The links plays along one of the most gorgeous beaches in Ireland and has some exquisite par 3 holes. It’s remote but it’s superb.

We stayed in the town of Ballyliffin, minutes from the course and in the Ballyliffin Townhouse.

Owned by Cathal Doherty and run by him and his family, this extremely cosy boutique property is ideal for golfers … and it has a great Irish bar … and a pool table!

Heading south and past Donegal town, Co Donegal Golf Club or Murvagh for the locals, is Ireland’s longest links course. Eddie Hackett designed and again, Pat Ruddy remodelled this challenging links. Starting out on some flat and unimpressive land, the course quickly turns into a beast with little burns slithering through fairways and dunes and humps and hollows playing havoc with your lies. The Par 3 5th, the Valley of Tears, is close to 200 yards and with a bowl shaped green encased in high dunes, a possible card wrecker and one of Donegal’s signature holes. We spent the night at the renowned and acclaimed Harvey’s Point resort sitting pretty, framed by the Blue Stack Mountains and which offers a choice of luxury and budget accommodation, several dining options and a fantastic round bar, ideal to reminisce about your round that day.

LOUGH ERNE GOLF RESORT Going back across the (non existent) border into Northern Ireland, we head for Co Fermanagh’s only 5* golf resort. On the shores of one of Ireland’s largest bodies of water, the Lough Erne Golf Resort and its Nick Faldo designed golf course must be one of Ireland’s most scenic inland golf properties. In its short lifespan it already hosted the G8 and Rory McIlroy and Padraig Harrington opened the course with a special match.

The hotel is well photographed due to its tower lodges and lake wedged location and is appointed to a very high standard. Under the expert guidance of Chef Noel McMeel, the Catalina Restaurant was awarded no less than 3 AA Rosettes. The name of the restaurant was derived from the famous sea planes that were harboured in Lough Erne during WW2, such is the history surrounding this relatively unknown destination.

The golf course needs to be approached with care, all 7,071 yards of it. Most of the trouble is on the right, mostly water as in ‘lake’ … but deep bunkers, raised greens and sloping fairways make this a tour worthy course although very playable from the right tees. A Thai Spa and leisure centre provides some solace after a day on the links and prepares you for the days ahead.

The resort features regularly in the golf publications of the world and Dan Fallon, the author of ‘Golf Resorts of the World’ was at hand to provide a copy of his book to the resident Director of Golf Michael Stanford.

This is a golf resort with everything one needs to spend a few days away from it all and not long for anything else.

ENNISCRONE AND CARNE Going further south we crossed the border again into Ireland and our next two venues, Enniscrone and Carne Golf Links are seriously scenic golf courses. With fairways meandering though towering dunes, sea views on virtually every hole, elevated greens and deep pot bunkers, both courses test your every links shot.

They are tactical, require precision off the tee, thoughtful approaches and some nifty putting.

Enniscrone is more polished with superb putting surfaces while Carne is more golf as it was played originally, sometimes a bit rough around the edges but oh so enjoyable. Every where you turn there is a view of the Atlantic and it’s easy to get distracted.

MOUNT FALCON ESTATE Centrally located to tackle both Carne and Enniscrone is the Mount Falcon Estate.

Central to the hub of activities sits the Victorian Gothic Manor house built in 1876 which houses the 32 luxury bedrooms, the dining options and a swimming pool and spa.

The Maloney family and their staff look after you as if you were one of their own and the food is exquisite with home grown produce being the focal point.

Dotted around the estate are 45 luxury lodges ideal for groups and families. With fly fishing, clay pigeon shooting, falconry, a driving range and their own stretch of Moy River bank, one of Ireland’s best salmon fishing rivers, you won’t be short of things to do at Mount Falcon.

PURE BLISS …

What else can I say? Playing golf along the West coast of Ireland is nothing short of magical. Sure, it can at times be a bit rough, it can be nippy, it can be wet but it also can be sunny and mild and oh so rewarding. And at the end of the day, when you had your shower and head for the bar and the barman pours you a pint and asked you how your round was… you think for a second and go … well, on the first I …

MORE INFORMATION …

Contact the North & West Coast Links organisation and John & Paul who can organise a bespoke trip for you and your friends or join their organised events.

www.northandwestcoastlinks.com A special thanks to all the golf courses, the hotels but also to Saran, our driver and companion from ‘Spirit of Ireland’. He embodied the name of the company and made sure we were well looked after and on time … well, mostly … but that’s the nature of travelling in Ireland. A bit like a pint of Guinness, it needs time to settle.

Words & Pictures: Jo Maes, President of the EGTMA