J'N'C Magazine 1/2015

JEANSWEAR And CONTEMPORARY FASHION

English

No 59 / 1-2015

Cool Cities Istanbul Street Styles Retail Talks ANd Service

INterviewS: Seyhan Özdemir, Ebru Debbağ, Cüneyt Yavuz, Manuel Bolaño, Jason Gallen

D 9.50 Eur B/NL/A 10.50 EUr E/P/I 11.50 Eur CH 15.80 CHF

CO SY PA N T S

www.alberto-pants.com

GDS – Global Destination for Shoes & Accessories

FOLLOW THE TREND TO GO AHEAD

OPTIMAL SENSE OF ORIENTATION AND INSPIRATION Each of the GDS Lifestyle Worlds has its own atmosphere and unique design.

IN JULY 2014, GDS OPENED ITS DOORS WITH AN ENTIRELY NEW CONCEPT AND BECAME THE “GLOBAL DESTINATION FOR SHOES & ACCESSORIES”. GDS BROUGHT DATES FORWARD AND COMPREHENSIVELY RE-DESIGNED ITS CONCEPT – FOR INSTANCE, WITH A NEW SEGMENTATION INTO THREE LIFESTYLE WORLDS AND A CLEAR FOCUS ON DETAILED TREND INFORMATION.

HIGHSTREET – THE MODERN PULSE covers the spectrum ranging from modern and sporty to traditional. Kids’ brands also appear here as well as an expanded section of accessories.

GDS took a major leap forward. Now that the new concept passed its baptism on fire in July 2014, it is now time for fine-tuning of the new course in February 2015. Therewith GDS kicks off the season and provides, immediately following the fashion week düsseldorf, the perfect orientation at the beginning of the season.

DESIGN TRENDSETTER

TRENDS OF TOMORROW

As a unique highlight at GDS, 20 exciting and innovative Design Trendsetter are going to be presented in connection with the Premium world STUDIO. Among these designers are Laurence Dacade, Alain Tondowski, Nicole Brundage or Charline De Luca.

These designers have been selected by an international first-class jury in the run-up to GDS.

The jury consisted of famous designers like Veronique Branquinho from Belgium; Ernesto Esposito, who worked for Sergio Rossi, Chloé, Louis Vuitton and Marc Jacobs; Simon Collins, Dean of Fashion at Parsons – The New School for Design in New York and Giuseppe Baiardo, CEO of Onward Luxury Group.

Here, the trends of tomorrow are going to be shown. This fascinating composition of exclusive designers is a unique source for research and inspirations.

CATWALK AND FASHION SHOWS The STUDIO show is already a favorite fixed event during GDS and draws attention to premium collections. In addition further impressive and professional fashion shows will be proverbially bringing collections to life.

POP UP – THE URBAN GROOVE is a lively marketplace for trendy street wear.

NETWORKING WITH BLOGGERS

STUDIO – THE PREMIUM NOTE presents shoe fashions from minimalistic to glamorous. Here it is all about craftsmanship, elegant design and perfection.

With events such as the Fashion BloggerCafé “Shoedition” and the Blogger Fashion Show GDS will also offer several special features for fashion bloggers.

For more information: www.gds-online.com

ENTERTAINMENT AT A HIGH LEVEL A very special VIP event is going to take place at the beginning of GDS, scheduled this time on the first trade fair evening, and promising to delight industry giants, exhibitors and VIPs alike. A music live act held by a popular artist will get the crowd into the right mood for the night.

FORUM TOUCH

FOCUS ON WHAT IS IMPORTANT In each of the three worlds, visitors are also guided by the “Highlight Route” – a defined path that leads along exhibition stands, special product presentations, fashion shows and events. GDS is herewith the ideal platform to discover new trends, developments and innovations.

TREND SPOTS In Trend Spots the most important seasonal trends for Autumn/Winter 2015/2016 are being strikingly illustrated and concisely visualised.

In trend installations shoes and accessories will be exposed in the context of design items, colors and atmosphere, to create inspiration and the right mood for assortment planning.

In the Forum Touch interseasonal innovations and materials can be experienced. On the one hand visitors can feel and see important seasonal materials but more importantly, it gives an overview of all classes of materials: leather, textiles, embossing, prints etc.

As an information pool for retailers and manufacturers Forum Touch is less about the end-product than about textures and surfaces the product is made of. Manufacturers as well as visitors get valuable knowlege for sales talks and compiling assortments.

Editorial

Editorial

Welcome to the circus The tradeshow circus now has a new attraction –

Never before has there been so much speculation and discussion about Berlin’s tradeshow scene than in these past few weeks. In mid-December new reports were landing on our editorial desk every few minutes. The rumour mill was literally churning. Bread & Butter cancelled! Panorama expanding! Seek moving to a new location! Bread & Butter maybe also relocating? What is going on in this already hyped up industry? Perplexity, head shaking, uncertainty – so soon before the Christmas break, some exhibitors who were planning to come to Berlin in January were left wondering what was going on.

After the wild speculations surrounding the continuation of Bread & Butter, the rumour mill was literally churning.

And to think everything started out so well: our beautiful Berlin, which had come of age, maturing from the Cold War ugly duckling of the fashion world into an internationally acclaimed fashion swan over the last few years, was really making a name for itself as the location for top fashion tradeshows. What Paris, Milan and London were for high fashion, Berlin was for the democratic midsection of the market – but, in contrast to Paris et al, the scene in Berlin was always characterised by major changes. Just after Karl-Heinz Müller made the decision to turn his back on his hometown Cologne and move Bread & Butter to Berlin in 2003, a fashion scene was developing in the city that was making people sit up and pay attention.

New events and showrooms were established, top tradeshows like Premium, and later Panorama got off the ground. And there was also plenty of room for cool niche shows like Capsule, Seek and Bright to emerge. A fantastic portfolio, an over-abundant offer – and right on our doorsteps too!

What a luxury, wasn’t it? What did we do to deserve all this? Well, it could have something to do with the classic German virtues: reliability, organisational talent, a down-to-earth attitude and commitment. But after the wild speculations surrounding the continuation of Bread & Butter, perhaps this image projected to the outside world wasn’t all it was cracked up to be.

The brand representatives are just as confused as everyone else. How could this have happened?

Examination of the root cause only triggers heated debates. Are there too many events? Are the locations too far apart? Are unpopular decisions the problem?

There are lots of opinions but no single truth.

We feel like shouting “Berlin is still here!” to the sceptics predicting an imminent downfall. But the sector that loves to reinvent itself more than any other will no doubt come up with something soon.

After all, when one door shuts, another opens! And that is a saying that Karl-Heinz Müller, always a man of surprising moves, is no doubt also contemplating right now.

That’s how we see the current situation anyway. But no matter what happens, we’ll be heading to the capital this January with a large portion of anticipation and curiosity. And we hope to see you there!

Ilona Marx

Wishing you an exciting tradeshow season, Ilona Marx

FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM WWW.INSTAGRAM.COM/ JNC_MAGAZINE

J’N’C not only has one foot in Berlin but we also feel really at home in Istanbul.

You can read all about the new shops that are booming on the banks of the Bosphorus and what the local fashion and design scene is up to in this tradition-steeped, yet edgy city from page 36.

READ THE GERMAN VERSION OF THIS EDITORIAL ON WWW.JNC-NET.DE

59 — 01/2015

A FEW AGAINST MANY

KHUJO IS A REGISTERED BRAND TRADEMARK www.khujo.com

the carousel has been joined by a rollercoaster.

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COntentS

Ove r v i ew

CONTENTS

The Masterpieces

23

Street Styles

38

883 Police

66

78

36

Ebru Debbağ, Orta

56

Istanbul Retail

40

Seyhan Özdemir, Autoban

54

Manuel Bolaño

62

84

Fashion Shoots

Fashion Shoots

104

10 Questions

114

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Seek

58

Cüneyt Yavuz, Mavi

Cool Cities Istanbul

The Listener 12

72

Column

16

Fashion Shoots

96

Lässige Ankle Boots, rustikale Biker Boots und jede Menge coole Kids Styles: Unsere Herbst/Winter-Kollektion 2015 wartet mit einer Fülle neuer, überraschender Modelle auf. Alle in derselben herausragenden Qualität und mit unserem einzigartigen Fußbett in zwei Weiten. Lassen Sie sich begeistern. BIRKENSTOCK. Das Original. birkenstock.com

COntentS

Ove r v i ew

COntentS 11 12 14 16 18

Editorial Content Imprint Column / Contributors Bits & Pieces

The Masterpieces

23

Cool Cities Istanbul

36

Street Styles Retail Service Talks – Seyhan Özdemir, Autoban Talks – Ebru Debbağ, Orta Anadolu Talks – Cüneyt Yavuz, Mavi

38 40 51 54 56 58

TRADESHOWS Seek, Berlin

Seek and you shall find

78

Modefabriek & Amsterdam denim days, amsterdam

Marketplace of opportunities

82

Fashion shoots Muriel Liebmann

True Blue

84

Christoph Voy

New Fall

96

Marc Huth

Brands & Brains

Mix ’N’ Match

104

Where To Find Us

112

Interview with Manuel BolaÑo

Lord Of the Bugs

62

883 Police, Interview with Faiz Musa

“We Gotta go and never stop going till we get there”

66

Ten Questions For

70

Jason Gallen

Dr. Martens

Standing the test of time

Victorinox

114

Retail & Architecture The listener, Frankfurt

Listen Up!

72

The upcycling fashion store, Berlin

Upcycle your life!

Publisher B+B MEDIA COMPANY GmbH Hildebrandtstr. 24 d 40215 Düsseldorf Germany Tel. +49 (0)211 8303 0 Fax +49 (0)211 8303 200 info@jnc-net.de, www.jnc-net.de Managing Director Michael Rieck

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Publishing Management Michael Rieck

14

Editor-in-Chief Ilona Marx /im Associate Publisher Pierre D’Aveta

76

Freelance Contributors Gerlind Hector /gh, ­Cheryll Mühlen ­ /cm, Jemima Gnacke /jg, Fredericke Winkler /fw Photography Marc Huth, Muriel Liebmann, Peter Lorenz, Eduardo Miera, Christoph Voy, Bernd Wichmann Illustration Frauke Berg Translation Galina Green, Paula Hedley Design & Layout Martin Steinigen, chewing the sun, www.chewingthesun.com

Image Editing Jean Pascal Zahn Copy Editors Paula Hedley, Eva Westhoff Head of Production Stefan Mugrauer Print Schaffrath Druckmedien, Geldern Advertising Director Pierre D’Aveta Tel. +49 (0)211 8303 151 p.daveta@bb-mediacompany.com

Price Germany 9.50 EUR A, NL, B 10.50 EUR; E, P, I 11.50 EUR Switzerland 15.80 CHF Bank Details BTV Bank für Tirol u. Vorarlberg AG Acc. no. 772 898 000 Sort code 720 123 00 Data Protection Notice In the event that delivery is not possible under the address provided, Deutsche Post DHL has the right to pass the correct address on to the publishers.

The sub­scriber can appeal against this guideline.

We assume no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photos, etc. The magazine and all of its contents and images are protected by copyright.

The place of business and jurisdiction is in all cases Düsseldorf.

Besuchen Sie uns auf der GDS an unserem Clarks Stand in Halle 4 I Stand G33 I 04. – 06. Februar 2015

column

TEXT Gerlind Hector Illustration Frauke Berg

Some of our

Contributors

Anita Krizanovic Fashion is only superficial at first sight, according to the PR consultant, fashion designer, qualified communications specialist and stylist Anita Krizanovic. With such broad horizons she refuses to limit herself to one and has proven her skills in various projects in which the focus is always on music and fashion. Originally from Frankfurt, she moved straight to Berlin after university. What she loves about her job is the new challenges and the fact that she always meets interesting people. At home her cat Kiwi brings her back down to earth and ensures that Anita can quickly relax and recharge her batteries.

Column

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What a Man!

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Charcoal burner, cooper, engraver are all once typical male trades that became obsolete many moons ago. And with them also many other manly pursuits that the 21st century woman would either turn her nose up or smile wryly at: urinating while standing up, opening beer bottles with their teeth... even cracking risqué jokes is frowned upon these days.

It may not seem fair, but this modern take on Charles Darwin’s ‘survival of the fittest’ means that other forms of prowess might be coming to the fore. These days it is the much talked about soft skills that count, and these are things women are simply better at. Not only is she more communicative and empathetic, but the female of the species is also proven to be better at multi-tasking. Conjuring up a three-course meal whilst gossiping on the phone and simultaneously going over a presentation for tomorrow – easy peasy!

Not to mention the fact that, under pressure from the media of course, women are pros at reinventing their appearances every few seasons – hairstyle, wardrobe and make-up included.

Despite this generalised self-optimisation hype, men have long since been left out in the cold, mostly due to a lack of ideas, but also – and let’s not shout this out too loud – because they lack the courage. Fortunately help is at hand: everything comes full circle in fashion eventually and here the magic word is ‘heritage’. In terms of outfits, this is making itself felt in extremely robust clothing made of tweed, cord and leather, in which even the most urban dweller would feel empowered to take on the Scottish highlands.

These sartorial trends are currently selling like hotcakes, especially to the kind of guys

whose daily routine consists of embarking on a 200-metre march before noon, from their kitchen table to the nearest café with Wi-Fi where they’ve been hatching plans for their next start-up for months now. Always stowed away in their army rucksack is a complete survival kit of water purification tabs, nightvision device and the obligatory Wootz steel knife, which a man could skin a wolf with, if he ever happens to bump into one that is.

After all, let’s be honest, these heritageenthusiasts don’t really want to be set free in the wild. Where are they supposed to charge their mobile phones or get their daily lactose-free chai latte fix?

It’s just a shame that the woman in his life doesn’t feel the same way and can’t help but raise a mocking smile when, for a Sunday stroll in the park, he slips on his sturdy Luis Trenker boots, which are of course sewnwelted and made of tough mountain cattle hide. This good old male niche, with its nod to robustness, strength and outdoorsy enthusiasm, is the epitome of pure happiness – even if it is all for show. ‘Just pretend’ is the motto! Even the barber trade, which in times of the ubiquitous hipster beard is actually totally superfluous, is experiencing another revival. Which takes us back full circle to the aforementioned extinct male trades. Having a razor-sharp knife held to their throats would give any man a real thrill. And, because women usually don’t enter such establishments of their own free will, the men can enjoy a laid-back silence amongst their like-minded fellows. After all, chatting ten to the dozen whilst handling sharp objects would definitely fall into the ‘multi-tasking’ category, and, as we know, that is something that’s best left to the women.

Hannah Godde The city of Mülheim an der Ruhr in North Rhine-Westphalia is rather unspectacular, but perhaps that’s the reason it has spawned some fantastic artists. In addition to the German comedian Helge Schneider, who is more responsible for the humour side of things, one such example is Hannah Godde, who has fully dedicated herself to the beautiful things in life – as a stylist and photographer. Starting out as a model and photo assistant in Hamburg she soon realised: this is it! The fashion industry with its ever-changing ideas, trends and talents fascinates her and every day she looks forward to working on projects, no matter how crazy. Soon also from New York and L.A.

Paula Hedley It was during a trip to the beautiful River Mosel when the twelve-year-old Paula fell in love with Germany and its unwieldy language. Back home, in Newcastleupon-Tyne, she determinedly worked her way through a ‘Teach Yourself German’ book and translated texts from old Bravo magazines for fun, which resulted in her becoming top of the class and eventually going on to study the subject at university.

Now based in Cologne, Paula earns a living with her hobby and, with her translation agency ‘Trend Translations’, which she runs together with colleague Galina Green, she specialises in fashion, lifestyle and marketing. For J’N’C she’s been translating our lifestyle articles and trend texts for what seems like half an eternity. What would we do without you, Paula?

Bits & Pieces

Bits & Pieces Camel Active:

Trail to Balance

5Preview:

Mavi:

Bohemian Rhapsody ‘Winter Bohemian & Wild Temptation’ is the title of the autumn/winter 2015/16 collection by Mavi, which combines bohemian and urban outlaw looks. The garments by the denim weavers from Istanbul are aimed at a cross between the sporty ‘it’ girl and the dreamy boho rebel with wanderlust. For the new season the Mavi man is opting for vintage looks and roaming the city in washed-look jeans and biker-inspired outfits. /cm

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eu.mavi.com

High Five

Inspiration doesn’t come muh tougher than this: the film ‘Ghost Dog: The Way of the Samurai’, which was released in 1999, is the inspiration behind the ‘High Five’ pre-fall 2015 capsule collection

by Swedish label 5Preview. The autumn collection features sporty kimonos and boxing shorts, based on the main character of the film and his connection to the Samurai warriors. The colour palette is a nod to urban life in the big city and, apart from a few exceptions, is limited to black and white. Pigeon prints add little dashes of colour and a playful touch to the collection. The highlights include a transparent bomber jacket, an oversized mesh sport dress and a kimono-look jumpsuit. Perfect for the city warrior in you. /cm

Morphing, patchwork and material blocking are the key elements in the Camel Active autumn/winter 2015/16 menswear collection ‘Trail to Balance’, which conveys a deeper message: balance out opposites like old and new, light and dark, structured and smooth. And no one masters this balancing act between tradition and modernity and looking to the future without forgetting one’s heritage better than the people of the Himalayas, who provided the inspiration for the Bielefeld brand. Robust workwear meets casual sportswear styles with tailoring details and ethnic micro patterns on classic casual shirts – for everyone looking to strike a balance. /cm

DISCOVER THE NEW AUTUMN / WINTER 2015 COLLECTION

www.camelactive.de

www.5preview.se Adidas Originals:

Superstar Born in the seventies, a classic sneaker by Adidas can look back on a success story spanning many years, which is set to reach a new peak in 2015: the ‘Superstar’ – the name says it all – was originally designed for basketball, but soon claimed by the music industry, all thanks to Run DMC. The rest is streetwear history. For autumn/ winter 2015/16 fans of the company from Herzogenaurach in Germany can look forward to an exciting comeback of the ‘Superstar’. The legend is not only living on, but also having new life breathed into it. /cm www.adidas.de/originals

VISIT US AT: PANORAMA, Berlin: 19.- 21.01.2015 | WHO’S NEXT, Paris: 23.- 26.01.2015 MODEFABRIEK, Amsterdam: 25.- 26.01.2015 | CIFF, Copenhagen: 29.01.- 01.02.2015 HALLE 29, Düsseldorf: 31.01.- 02.02.2015 | MODA, Birmingham: 15.- 17.02.2015 WWW.CAMELACTIVE.DE

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Hall 6, 6.08

Bits & Pieces

Maison Scotch Amsterdams Blauw:

C-of-H Man:

Bon Voyage

Slim Byron

It’s only two seasons since the Cof-H Man men’s line of American jeans label Citizens of Humanity was re-launched. Simon Miller, who took on the position of Men’s Creative Director in summer 2013, sees the C-of-H man in a slim silhouette for the autumn/winter 2015/16 season. So guys: it’s time to tone those stomach muscles! “We have introduced our slimmest fit yet, the ‘Byron’, and our chinos are also cut slimmer than they may have been a few years ago,” explains Miller. Just as in previous seasons, the source of inspiration remains Japan and its many facets, as well as quality in terms of the fabrics. “This plays a large role in the finish of each collection and we continue to work closely with our partners there to provide the most authentic and modern collection.” /cm

Molami:

Audio Gems Even after several years, the headphones boom is showing no signs of slowing down. And how could it? Especially considering the increasingly cool styles with ever-improving sound that are currently taking the market by storm. Stockholm brand Molami has made it its task to combine electronics with fashion, and is presenting a sonorous and highly aesthetic headphones collection.

Their latest model is the in-ear headphones ‘Stitch’. With their ‘rounded square’ design in either matt black/gold or matt white/ copper, these must-have headphones are a stylish accessory for all audiophiles. /cm

www.citizensofhumanity.com

“Somewhere, beyond the sea. Somewhere waiting for me …” Lyrics once sung by Bobby Darin and an apt soundtrack for the autumn/ winter 2015/16 Maison Scotch Amsterdams Blauw womenswear collection. The motto is ‘Bon Voyage’ and it is dedicated to adventurous explorers setting sail on the blue denim sea. In the new season there aren’t just all manner of blue tones to discover, but also new silhouettes, aquatic prints and the very special ‘Petit Ami’ selvedge denim, which has been woven exclusively for Amsterdams Blauw, as well as ‘Mermaid’ – a pair of loosefitting tapered joggers. Denim ahoy! /cm www.scotch-soda.com

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Opulent

Avelon believes in beautiful otherness. And exactly what that means is being demonstrated by designer Erik Frenken for autumn/ winter 2015/16 with his first ladies’ resort collection for the Dutch fashion label. It includes T-shirts, jeans, suits and dresses. “We went for absolute freedom this season.

Knowing who we are and what we stand for gave us a sense of freedom that meant I could be truly limitless in my designs,” he says. “From developing and creating our own fabrics to the elegant big shapes that give the collection a sense of opulence and richness.” /cm

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Alberto:

Reloaded

Some things never change! One of those things is the high standards of the Alberto label from Mönchengladbach. For autumn/winter 2015/16 the trouser experts are once again offering a wide range of men’s styles, including classic slim fits, rough slacks, chinos, cargos and of course jeans – not to mention refined fabrics as well as various modifications and treatments. Highlights include the ‘Cozy Pants’, high-quality wool looks from the ‘Smart Dressy’ line, a 30-piece denim collection, ‘Smart Cotton’ pants and various premium jeans. They even have three trouser models made of veggie leather. It’s plain to see that Alberto loves pants. /cm www.alberto-pants.com

www.avelon.me

M

CY

www.molami.com

Avelon:

C

The Masterpieces

HERE FASHION COMES TO LIFE. FEAST YOUR EYES. SAVOR OUR WORDS.

BREATHE IN OUR UNIQUE ATMOSPHERE. REVEL IN INSPIRATION. SAY I LOVE YOU. SAY I HATE YOU.

HEAR THE COLORS. LISTEN TO YOUR IDEAS.

GET A FRESH START. HERE YOU ARE FREE.

HERE NOTHING CAN STOP YOU.

DON’T GIVE UP ON ANYTHING. PURSUE YOUR DREAMS. NOW AND FOREVER. THIS IS WHERE YOU COME TO LIFE.

premierevision.com 10 - 12 February 2015 We dedicate this event to all the players in the fashion world, bringing together, here in Paris, under the Première Vision banner and in a shared

The Masterpieces Editor’s Pick

J’N’C Proudly Presents: The masterpieces that have what it takes to become true classics

TEXT CHeryll Mühlen Photos Bernd Wichmann

59 — 01/2015

DEVOUR EVERY INCH AND ANGLE.

venue, all the different experts in : 23

The Masterpieces

Cape diem! – Aigle

LA PLAGE. LE SOLEIL. L’ORIGINAL. Made in France

59 — 01/2015

Saintfalls Aigle We all know the feeling: you’re out and about and suddenly get caught in a downpour, but the only umbrella you own is safe and dry at home. And it’s the same with rain jackets. But thanks to ‘Saintfalls’ by traditional French label Aigle, all the ladies out there no longer have to worry about

getting drenched! Because this lightweight cape can be easily stowed away in your handbag and instantly put to use when the weather chooses not to cooperate. It has a bonded seam, a hood and, thanks to the Aigle MDT coating, it is water and windproof, not to mention breathable, which

prevents moisture from collecting underneath. The feminine pastel nude tone makes a refreshing change to classic rain jacket colours. And the dark-red cords on the collar and pockets add highlights which can be swapped for nude-coloured variations as preferred. Two zipped pockets

www.aigle.com 24

also offer space for your keys, smartphone and other essentials. This cape definitely has what it takes to become a loyal, uncomplicated companion for everyday wear.

Premium Berlin Halle1, G04 | GDS Halle 1, C20 www.espadrij.com | #espadrij | instragram.com/espadrij | facebook.com/espadrij.eu New Showroom: Fichtenstr. 70, 40233 Düsseldorf

The Masterpieces

Cop This! - Blauer USA

59 — 01/2015

Blue Leather Bomber Jacket Blauer USA There’s just something about American cops – something different, cooler. At least in terms of their uniforms. Exhibit A: this biker jacket by Italian outerwear expert Blauer USA. The blue leather bomber jacket is based

on the uniform of motorcycle cops and shows how easy it is to acquire a touch of coolness.

Our masterpiece is almost a 1:1 replica: the flap on the chest was originally designed to allow the police officers to pull through

the cable of their headsets and prevent them from getting tangled up. The zips in the side seams offer easy access to the gun holster, even when the jacket is fastened up to keep out the cold. And the patch on the sleeve

www.Blauer.it 26

features the actual police logo from the USA – the shape and the blowing flag in the middle are 100 percent identical. The only difference is the name ‘Blauer’ at the top, instead of NYPD. Case closed.

The Masterpieces

Flying High – Schott NYC

PME-LEGEND.COM

59 — 01/2015

MA-1 Schott NYC It all started with the production of raincoats in 1913 in good old Manhattan. The label of brothers Irving and Jack Schott shot to fame with the famous ‘Perfecto’ leather jacket, which achieved cult status thanks to Hollywood legends James Dean

and Marlon Brando in the fifties.

But Schott NYC also provided the US Air Force and navy pilots with the ‘MA-1’ flight jacket. After originally being reserved for the American military, it soon travelled over the Atlantic to Europe via the black market and ended

up becoming a trend there too.

Today the flight jacket is once again soaring high and even discovering its feminine side.

Our masterpiece for ladies from the spring/summer 2015 season comes in a fresh beige tone and a slim-fit silhouette. It features

www.schott-bros.com 28

all details of the classic ‘MA1’: orange inside lining, a little stand-up collar, two flap pockets with press stud on the front, an inside pocket and an additional zipped pocket on the left arm.

What more could you want?

PANORAMA BERLIN

19-21 JANUARY 2015 | HALL1. UP - STAND N°12 P ME L E GE N D HQ GE R MA N Y | SP E DI TI ON STR A SSE 17, 5. OG | 40 2 2 1 D Ü S S E L D O R F | + 4 9 ( 0 ) 2 1 3 1 4 0 5 3 9 7 5

The Masterpieces

Rebel With A Cause – Replay

THE ORIGINAL PERFECTO JACKET

59 — 01/2015

Julibert Replay It’s hard to imagine the world of denim without the destroyed look. This statement might elicit a shake of the head from those people behind the times who can’t understand why anyone would spend cash on a pair

of ripped jeans. We would, of course, because we know how much work goes into them. A good investment is the ‘Julibert’ model by Replay. The ladies’ straight-fit jeans from the Italian fashion brand’s autumn/winter

2015/16 collection is made of 98 percent cotton and two percent elastane and is given its rough finish by hand in Italy. This includes classic destroyed details as well as a ripped knee and roughened-up parts, as well as

www.replay.it 30

a striking black denim patch and stitching. The look is rounded off with a stone-washed finish. For every contemporary rebel with attitude.

www.schott-bros.com | Premium Exhibitions Berlin, 19.-21.01.2015, Hall 1, G05 New Showroom: Fichtenstr. 70, 40233 Düsseldorf

The Masterpieces

White Space – Airbag Craftworks

59 — 01/2015

Taunus Airbag Craftworks Extreme purism! That’s the best way to describe the ‘Taunus’ rucksack by creative German label Airbag Craftworks. After all, who needs unnecessary extras in a bag when the most important feature is space? The ‘Taunus’, handmade in Kleestadt on the

edge of the Odenwald forest, offers enough room for a 15” laptop and everything else you might need on your travels. The waterproof cotton also protects belongings from the elements, and the two leather buttons on the left and right add a stylish

touch. The real eye-catchers on the all-white backpack are the rubber loops in neon orange. Style isn’t the only priority for Airbag Craftworks though; comfort also plays an important role: the padded back makes the bag extremely comfortable to

www.airbagcraftworks.com 32

carry. But the ‘Taunus’ does have one little surprise up its sleeve: hiding inside is a detachable inside pocket with zip fastener.

Sometimes less really is more.

The Masterpieces

Ik Droom Van Jou – Humanoid

59 — 01/2015

Duo Skin Droom Humanoid “We were not punk. We were Weverstraat. Humanoid just happened. No philosophy. Doing something.” That’s how the Dutch fashion label Humanoid describes itself on its website. Humanoid is “expressive,

creative, authentic, but always functional and contemporary,” – which definitely isn’t an empty promise. One example of the fact that these attributes are absolutely true of Humanoid is provided by the ‘Duo Skin Droom’.

And this round-neck T-shirt from the spring/summer 2015 collection is indeed a genuine ‘droom’, the Dutch word for dream. After all, this loose-fit shirt made of softly falling leather will be one of those few items in your

www.humanoid.nl 34

wardrobe that stands out with its sophisticated simplicity and versatility – whether casual, sporty or chic. A textile dialogue between colour, material and tailoring and a masterpiece par excellence.

THE MARKETPL ACE FOR LEADING BRANDS I N T E R N AT I ON A L FA SHI ON T R A DE SHO W | 19 – 2 1 J A N 2 0 15 www.panorama-berlin.com

The megacity between orient and

Cool Cities / Istanbul

Cool Cities / Istanbul

Text Gerlind Hector Photos Peter Lorenz

occident has a unique charm and cannot be compared to any other

Cool Cities

metropolis in the

Istanbul

world.

Hagia Sophia, the Princes’ Islands, Topkapi Palace – if you take in all of Istanbul’s classic tourist sights, you’re guaranteed to sleep like a log in your hotel bed every night. But the beautiful city on the Bosphorus has so much more to offer, including a dazzling art, club and cultural scene that brings together the best of Europe and Asia. Not to mention its boundless sources of inspiration.

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There are stores and cafés here that refreshingly stand out from the crowd.

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Currently booming is the Karaköy district, the neighbourhood below the historic Galata Tower, one of the city’s many clearly visible landmarks.

Erected in the 14th century by the Genoese, the tower dominates the northern end of the Golden Horn, the seven-kilometre-long bay of the Bosphorus. Long queues of tourists form here during the day, all patiently waiting to take in the unique views across to the European and the Asian parts of the city. Karaköy is home to stores and cafés that refreshingly stand out from the crowd of run-ofthe-mill international labels and chains that are the same the world over, whether in London, Lyon or Leipzig: like the no-frills vegetarian restaurant Lokanta Helvetia for example, or a small store like Aphorm, run by a young Turkish jewellery designer

and her sister, which offers handmade fashion, accessories and interior design of the highest quality.

Typical Turkish elements are cleverly combined with influences from the western hemisphere.

Individuality in combination with national traits are a major factor here, and young fashion designers, artists and architects in particular are taking the time to examine their cultural roots. Typical Turkish elements are cleverly combined with influences from the western hemisphere. In this way the country’s often tense political situation – topic number one amongst well-educated young Turkish people – is dealt with creatively. The new conservatism and image of Turkish identity presented

by Ankara is met in a more playful way in Istanbul.

That’s one reason why traditional craftsmanship is experiencing a big revival here and it even goes as far as epicurean pleasures. On every street corner you will find freshly pressed pomegranate juice, börek, bulgur and baklava being served up, especially in the newer, younger cafés.

Greeks, Persians, Romans…they’ve all ruled from this city with its unique position on the banks of the Bosphorus – which has been one of the most important trading routes since antiquity, making the passage from the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara possible. Currently, of course, it is mainly curious tourists who are taking Istanbul by storm and bustling around the Grand Bazaar and the Blue Mosque. But those who take the time to go off the beaten track and get to know the people and the country behind the main tourist attractions will come across pure inspiration. And will soon start planning their next trip.

For the GERMAN VERSION OF the Guide visit WWW.JNC-NET.DE

ISTANBUL IN NUMBERS Founded as a Doric Greek colony: in 660 BC Name change: first known as Byzantium; from 324 BC Constantinople and since 1930 Istanbul Population: officially around 14.5 million, unofficially 20 million Number of houses of worship: over 3100 mosques, 40 churches, 16 synagogues Average temperature: 14°C Number of universities: 29 Number and height of hills on which Istanbul was built: 7 hills between 40 and 70 m above sea level World’s first coffee house: opened in 1554 in Istanbul

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When the muezzin replaces your alarm clock by calling to prayer at five o’clock in the morning, the air is scented with sandalwood and every day heralds a whole raft of creative adventures, then one thing is for sure: you must be in Istanbul!

The megacity between orient and occident has a unique charm and cannot be compared to any other metropolis in the world. “Like a mix between Cairo and Milan. Or perhaps New York and Kabul!” as Antony Doucet, marketing manager of the luxurious House Hotel, succinctly puts it. This beautiful city on the banks of the Bosphorus, which has been the Frenchman’s chosen home for several years now, frequently elicits envy amongst his circle of international friends. After all, Istanbul truly is a melting pot of cultures: the national art and creative scene has its reasons for choosing the city as the centre of its creativity. It feels like there is a new hotspot or a cool store opening every other day – and the hip district of the moment changes every few months.

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Cool Cities / Istanbul — Street Styles

Cool Cities / Istanbul — Street Styles

Istanbul Street Styles

simge, 23 ceramics student Jacket H&M Trousers Topshop Glasses Urban Outfitters

Nihan, 23 engineer Top & skirt Zara Sneakers Vintage

Güven, 29 interior designer

Angelina, 27 mother of two Trouser suit The Kooples T-shirt Dolce & Gabbana Shoes Bottega Veneta

Jacket Hugo Boss Shirt Massimo Dutti Trousers David Naman Belt & shoes Prada

“The ocean,

“The people

Esra, 31 actress

here are crazy

Dress Morine Comte Marant Shoes Handmade by a cobbler

about fashion blogs.

a big city, friends – Istanbul is a cool place to

And they really

hang out.”

inspire me too.

Zeynep

Istanbul is international.”

Nihan

“Istanbul is paradise!”

Nüvit

Busra, 30 fashion designer

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Sinan, 26 director

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Jacket Zara Trousers Levi’s Shoes Hotic Sunglasses Toms

Nüvit, 58 businessman Neslihan, 35 shoe designer Jacket Vintage Top Zara Skirt Nes Butik Shoes Nike Glasses Dior

Cardigan Hugo Boss Shirt Acne Trousers Gap Shoes Camper Glasses Vintage

Zeynep, 20 designer Sneakers Nike Air Max Earrings Hello Kitty Rest of outfit Taksim Vintage

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Shirt Maison Scotch Skirt Homemade Sneakers New Balance Bag Givenchy

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Cool Cities / Istanbul — Retail

Cool Cities / Istanbul — Retail

Istanbul Retail

ATELIER 55 IS A COOL CONCEPT STORE THAT OFFERS INTERNATIONAL DESIGNER FASHION AND FUN ACCESSORIES.

Sahi Kemankeş Kara Mustafa Paşa Mahallesi Kılıç Ali Paşa Mescit Sokak No. 2 Karaköy, Beyoğlu 34400 Istanbul T +90 212 2446363 www.sahi.com.tr

Labels:

Atelier 55

Aliye Dortler, Aquazzura, Bora Aksu, Charlotte Olympia, Jean Pierre Braganza, Holly Fulton, Linda Farrow, Philip Treacy, Vivienne Westwood

Serdar-i Ekrem Sokak Seraskerci Çikmazi No. 55 Galata 34420 Istanbul T +90 212 2453255 www.atelier-55.com

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After spending twenty years working in advertising as a marketing specialist for CocaCola and other companies, Çiçekten Yeşilkaya was searching for the perfect work-life balance.

In the name of love she is following her heart and has been living in Madrid since 2011 where she works as a management consultant, but in August 2014 the time had come to embark on her very own personal project. So she opened Sahi, which means ‘truth’, and since then she

THE RICHNESS has been commuting between Madrid and Istanbul. “I wanted to sum up the richness and the dynamism of Turkish culture,” she enthuses and emphasises that she has turned her very personal dream into reality. At Sahi, Çiçekten presents only the best that Turkey has to offer.

Handmade products that mirror the richness of everyday Turkish items and other decorative articles. Finely woven hammam cloths, decorative ceramics and the sugary sweet Turkish Delight,

AND THE DYNAMISM OF TURKISH CULTURE SUMMED UP. made locally by a confectioner.

What makes the place truly loveable, however, is not the many handpicked treasures – if you don't find the right souvenir

here, you only have yourself to blame – but the unique rooftop terrace on which you can enjoy a relaxing glass of tea and baklava, which is delivered fresh from Gaziantep every day. You can let your gaze drift over the centuryold Kılıç Ali Paşa mosque and delight in the scent wafting up from the nearby hammam. And if this doesn’t make you want to return to the pretty city on the Bosphorus, we don’t know what will.

Atelier 55 Wandering up from the Bosphorus toward Taksim Square, you’ll be faced with steep steps and a confusing maze of small alleyways. It’s not exactly the first place you’d expect to find a cool concept store like Atelier 55 with its international designer fashion and fun accessories on an area covering 150 m². Başak Abaci worked for Turkish-born Bora Aksun in London for years,

until she decided six years ago that a healthy portion of Brit chic wouldn’t do Istanbul any harm. Hats by Philip Treacy and dresses by Vivienne Westwood take her back to her time in the British capital and are cleverly combined with Turkish brands.

She started out with just 15 labels but then added styles she personally also likes to wear: and meanwhile also sells décor and

interior design items. Başak loves to experiment with colours – and that’s the reason why she’s kept the interior at Atelier 55 simple in light grey and white. The clear structure with long raised platforms lining the walls and a large display case in the middle further accentuate the colourful mix of fashion, shoes and belts. “I travel a lot and am always on the lookout for interesting labels,”

says Başak Abaci, who is not only responsible for ordering at her Istanbul shop. She also owns a store in Bodrum, the popular beach resort on the southwest coast of Turkey. This is where she comes to wind down occasionally – but truth be told, Başak prefers the city with its natural chaos.

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SAHI

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Cool Cities / Istanbul — Retail

Cool Cities / Istanbul — Retail

LABELS: LABELS:

APC, Adidas, Airbag Craftworks, Barbour, Bleu de Paname, Dagmar, Fjällräven, Freitag, Levi’s, Nike, Unser Erbe, Raf Simons for Fred Perry

American Retro, Anne Sofie Madsen, A Question of, Eastpak, Han Kjøbenhavn, Henrik Vibskov, Pantone, Raf Simons, Rizzoli, Wood Wood 290 SQM

Selfestate

OR FASHION STORE? SELFESTATE

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SELFESTATE

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Gallery or fashion store?

Selfestate does both! The expansive light-flooded location right around the corner from the historic Galata Tower, which dates back to the 14th century, is an absolute must for culture vultures visiting Istanbul. This is where international well-known artists like Giovanni Scognamiglio from Italy show their work.

There’s also space for a good se-

TO PUT

290 SQM navia is so renowned. Additional highlights are special items like the Eastpak rucksacks by Raf Simons and denim jackets and waistcoats customised by Turkish artist Emrah Özhan especially for Selfestate. The architecture of the store is also pretty impressive: the roughly sanded concrete floor and witty decorative objects, like the sawn-in-half fairground horse decorating

the wall, add an individualistic touch and atmosphere. A large table with chairs tucked away in a back corner invite discussions and creative conferences, which often take place spontaneously at gallery openings. The exposed walls with their different textures and brickwork hint at a long and eventful past.

THE PERFECT MEETING PLACE

www.selfestate.com

DOES BOTH!

lection of glossy fashion books, magazines and CDs. The clothing and accessories are not aimed at the classic mainstream; instead they are tailored more toward an art-interested clientele.

Noticeable is the high number of Scandinavian designers like Anne Sofie Madsen, Henrik Vibskov and Han Kjøbenhavn, who prefer clear lines and the high quality for which Scandi-

www.290sqm.com

Şahkulu Mahallesi Küçükhendek Caddesi No. 7 Galata, Beyoğlu 34220 Istanbul T +90 212 2936702

Amsterdam, Zurich – and now Istanbul also has its own branch of 290 SQM. When he was only 14, Ido de Voos travelled alone by coach to Paris to check out the unusual styles that he couldn’t find in his hometown of Amsterdam. So it made sense to make a career out of his skill for sniffing out cool trends and open a shop – and then another. And because all good things come in threes, he decided to open a store in

TOGETHER Istanbul too. Here, on the cusp of occident and orient, fashion with a more individualistic look is particularly popular. Shoes, bags, clothes and handmade jewellery – 290 SQM is located on Serdar-i Ekrem, the popular shopping street which snakes its way through Istanbul and is the perfect place for fashion aficionados to meet. Brands like Adidas, Dagmar and Bleu de Paname are cleverly com-

bined, resulting in a harmonious whole. The search for the ideal must-have piece is made easy with the shop’s clear structuring and well-organised interior: polished concrete flooring, walls with either mirrors or exposed brickwork and formally arranged shelving units at the side. At the rear centre of the store is an ancient workbench on which a few selected accessories like belts, wallets and scarves are geomet-

AN INDIVIDUAL LOOK.

rically arranged; pretty accessories that can’t be ignored. All of which makes for a fun shopping experience. And the multilingual shop assistant is happy to give advice if you find yourself spoilt for choice.

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GALLERY

Serdar-i Ekrem Sokak Sahin Apt. No. 27 A Galata 34420 Istanbul T +90 212 2490121

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Cool Cities / Istanbul — Retail

Cool Cities / Istanbul — Retail

Kameleon Müellif Sok. No. 5-7 Beyoğlu 34421 Istanbul T +90 (212) 293 24 20 www.kameleon-int.com Halt

FASHION AND ACCESSORIES MAINLY FROM

Azir Mirza, Cedric Guillermo, Crea Concept, Eva vs. Maria, Gülnur Özdağlar

LABELS:

“WE WANT TO

Gülçin Uzunalan, Hasan, Koça, Kalashnikov Monkeys, Locomotees, Rich & Vibrant

INSPIRE PEOPLE’S AESTHETIC

TURKISH

IMAGINATION AND

DESIGNERS AND

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HALT

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Although Ankara is the official capital of Turkey, many open-minded creative types are drawn to Istanbul. “Interesting people from all over the world come here, and find a way to realise their ideas,” say Caner Cihangir and Murat Duman, who also made the move from Ankara to Istanbul. Two years ago the two young men opened the Halt store, whose name references the German command meaning

STIMULATE THEIR

CRAFTSPEOPLE.

CREATIVE SPIRIT.”

Kameleon ‘stop’. And it’s a fitting choice because there’s no getting past Halt, at least not if you have your eyes open. In addition to fashion and accessories they offer a whole range of interior design and homewear items mainly by Turkish designers and craftspeople. Caner and Murat have worked long and hard at perfecting the concept and made it their job to offer a platform for young local talents. Their

great selection of necklaces and bracelets, either made of solid silver or with eye-catching pendants on neon-coloured bands, is particularly diverse.

Fans of striking looks will find what they want as well as those who prefer more sophisticated understatement. When it comes to the interior of the store the keyword is functionality: grey stone flooring, white walls and sufficient shelving to arrange

the stock in an appealing way. A few potted plants and a gnarled root on the wall bring a bit of nature into the mix; something that there isn’t too much of in this bustling city of over a million inhabitants. Caner and Murat have created their own small paradise here and are definitely proving their skills in finding the beautiful things in life.

Hacer Sayman is a true cosmopolitan. And not only because she regularly travels to Berlin to collect art. Hacer, who studied business in Vienna where she picked up the Viennese sense of humour, has meanwhile been living back in Istanbul for a while now. And here, in the former Greek-Jewish quarter Beyoğlu, she chose to open Kameleon.

“We want to inspire people’s

aesthetic imagination and stimulate their creative spirit,” says Hacer Sayman. In addition to jewellery and fashion, on an approx. area of 100 m² she offers all kinds of curiosities, like fashion prints from the 19th century, old film posters or artful glass objects. The former are by the Turkish artist Gülnur Özdağlar, who makes her filigree jewellery out of old PET bottles.

Hacer has a story to tell about every article she sells and you can tell that she has not only invested a lot of energy into her store but also plenty of heart and soul. Feminine knitwear by Crea Concept is sold here, as well as striking eyewear by Azir Miza. In order to have enough room for her stock she simply knocked a few walls through to the next building, which had been a small

workshop until a few years ago.

Istanbul is constantly in a state of flux and this is especially visible in Kameleon with its combination of exposed brick walls and modern mix of brands. It’s definitely all in the name – Kameleon is a concept store that is constantly being updated to reflect the burgeoning new ideas and travels of its dynamic owner.

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HALT OFFERS

Labels:

Küçükhendek Caddesi No. 18 Kuledibi, Galata 34220 Istanbul T +90 212 2434193

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Cool Cities / Istanbul — Retail

Cool Cities / Istanbul — Retail

ParisTexas Büjükhendek Caddesi No. 4 A Galata 3422O Istanbul T +90 212 2526151

Misela Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 107E Beyoğlu 34421 Istanbul T +90 (212) 243 53 00

www.facebook.com/like.paristexas

www.miselaistanbul.com Labels: Acne, Alexander McQueen, APC, Dior, Dries van Noten, Fendi, Hackett London, J.Lindeberg, Jil Sander, Norse Project, Raf Simons

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The aloof charm of Nastassja Kinski in the eponymous film

by Wim Wenders doesn’t really apply to this store. It’s definitely more about glamour and luxury, especially when it comes to fashion. The brand mix is simply exquisite, with fashions by Alexander McQueen, Jil Sander and Dior. But Hackett London and J.Lindeberg are also available to cater to the more demanding male tastes.

Cool vintage sunglasses by Fendi and Raf Simons presented in a display case directly on the

counter round off the range. The elongated store can be accessed from both sides, from two different streets, which ensures more than enough customer footfall; shoppers can browse and discover their own personal must-have items in peace and quiet. The interior is all about clean lines, with the sparing use of special effects to add a twist.

Herringbone parquet flooring muffles the click-clack of high heels and the roughly plastered walls are simply decorated, with shiny golden curtains that

THE IMPRESSIVE CHARM OF HIGH-CLASS COUTURE COMBINED WITH A WONDERFULLY IMPERFECT AMBIENCE.

Misela, Tina@Anatolia

Misela look particularly elegant as a background to the clothing racks. All in all, the combination of high-class couture and wonderfully imperfect interiors, including visibly aged sideboards, adds a personal note to the store that makes it inviting and intimate. A cat, who seems to have chosen ParisTexas as its new home, adds to the overall impression of homeliness. She is permitted to curl up on the small velvet stools, and is only turfed out when the store closes in the late evening.

Covering a mere 10 m², Misela, a luxury treasure trove of a shop, makes you want to move in straight away. The mini store’s cool stone floors and roughly plastered walls are a wonderful contrast to the products on offer, which certainly don’t scrimp when it comes to gold and glitter.

Purses, iPad cases and clutches in various sizes made of valuable materials like python leather or lambskin are sure to awaken feelings of desire in every female. Special eye-catchers are

the geometric patterns adorning the surfaces of small must-have items – always in a mix of primary colours and shiny finishes. Serra Türker has created a small paradise that showcases her great creativity as a painter and designer in one complete package. Decorative armchairs with covers she designed herself, fresh flowers and scented candles spreading the delicate fragrance of sandalwood create an unforgettable atmosphere.

A large painting by Serra Türker

hangs on the wall, serving as the perfect backdrop for the classic Turkish tea service waiting to be used by the customers. The central visual is her memorable logo of three circles, which not only looks good, but also has a deeper meaning, as Serra explains. It represents the deep connection with her two sisters Mina and Lara: the first syllable from each of their names combined to create the name Misela, perfectly encapsulating the essence of femininity.

MISELA IS A LUXURY TREASURE TROVE THAT MAKES YOU WANT TO MOVE IN STRAIGHT AWAY.

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ParisTexas

Labels:

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Archive

Lastik Pabuç You can’t miss Lastic Pabuç on one of the busiest shopping streets in the trendy district of Beyoğlu. The name of the store means ‘rubber shoe’ and their specialised range of footwear has a magical pull on fans of sporty footwear. They stock sneakers in all colours and designs. Spread over two floors, models from pretty much all the major brands from Nike to New Balance and Adidas to Superga are stocked here. A smaller selection of more robust models offering the perfect grip, as well as socks and T-shirts round off the product range. www.lastikpabuc.com

International Istanbul: here you’ll find designer furniture, tableware, home accessories and the obligatory room fragrances. Located on the so-called designer mile, Archive, owned by Serdari Ekrem, offers the perfect selection of everything interior design aficionados could ever wish for. The 70 m² store with its dark painted walls and subtly lit products appears to be much larger than it actually is. In another small room customers can browse a range of vases, glasses, bowls and carafes.

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If you’re a fan of lovingly crafted products, then Aphorm is the place for you. Bilge Çiçekçiler opened the store in April 2014 with an integrated workshop where you can watch her sister Neriman making filigree jewellery with a welding torch. The cosy store is a real treasure trove for pretty but also useful bits and bobs that add a bit of colour to our lives. Textiles, bags, notepads – all handmade one-offs. www.aphorm.com

www.archive.com.tr

Lunapark Nes Boutique Neslihan Güneri hates high heels!

That’s rather unusual for a shoe designer, but it also means that the owner of Nes Butik has found her specific niche and calling: designing beautiful flat shoes.

Her small store, in a narrow street tucked between spice shops and cafés, is a bright mix of colourful fashion, striking statement necklaces and other accessories, as well as the aforementioned shoes. Some of which are showcased in birdcages, which can be explained by the fact that Neslihan is a big fan of crazy décor ideas. www.nesbutik.com

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Cool Cities / Istanbul — Retail +

Aphorm

Sentetik Sezar If you’re looking for cool vintage fashion, there’s a good chance you’ll be sent directly to Taksim Square from where you turn into a narrow street in order to find Sentetik Sezar. Three years ago Yilmaz Ordukaya opened this small store, where, amongst old porcelain dolls and tennis racquets, you can also snap up some wonderful second-hand vintage fashion by Daniel Hechter or Chanel. This is where Istanbul’s hipsters hang out and browse the countless sunglasses on offer.

These are the only products sold here that aren’t second-hand. www.sentetiksezar.com

‘Turkish very much’ is the claim of the small store in the currently hip Galata district, which sounds a little like “thank you very much”. Which kind of makes sense, seeing as Lunapark was conceived as a homage to young Turkish designers and traditional labels. The owners, Murat Tamgüç and Bertan Berk, who have been running an agency for retail and product design since 2004, present handpicked accessories, home décor, books and cosmetics, representing the crème de la crème of the Turkish creative scene. www.lunapark.com.tr

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Cool Cities / Istanbul — Retail +

Istanbul Retail +

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Industrie Denim The Zorlu Center, which opened in autumn 2013 and is perched on a hill above the Bosphorus Bridge, is prestigious and truly impressive.

The complex includes a centre for performing arts, a hotel, offices, residences and a shopping mall. As well as lovers of international luxury labels, denim fans will also go home happy after a shopping spree here.

Industrie Denim offers a comprehensive range from Levi’s to J Brand and Goldsign down to Armani jeans.

Shoes, bags, and small accessories round off the offer. The interior is a skilful mix of industrial chic and Wild West feeling.

Istanbul Service

Cool Cities / Istanbul — Service

Cool Cities / Istanbul — Retail +

Istanbul Retail +

www.industriedenim.com.tr

Milk Gallery

www.whatismilk.com

House Hotel Bosphorus Salhane Sokak No. 1 Ortaköy 34347 Istanbul T +90 212 3277787

Miniko, an exclusive boutique with a special kind of charm, is just one minute away from the Şişhane central underground station. Owner Elif Demirel Oltulu sells a vibrant assortment of second-hand and new items, which will make any label fetishist’s heart start beating faster: Prada, Gucci & co. jostle for attention here with Wayuuu bags from Columbia and silk dresses

by Anthropologie. The in-house café in the lower basement area serves homemade New York cheesecake and typical Turkish snacks like baklava and a variety of cookies.

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www.minikoshop.com

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www.thehousehotel.com

Miniko

Vintage Records Moda near Kadiköy, a trendy verdant district on the Asian side of the city, is where Istanbul’s inhabitants come to find some respite and calm. The most laid-back shopkeeper here is Mete Avunduk, and his special area of expertise is vinyl records and crazy miscellaneous items, including Snoopy figurines. If you happen to be looking for old records by David Bowie, Boney M. or The Doors, this is the place for you. Mete even sells cassettes, paperback books and projectors.

He certainly isn’t one to throw anything away. www.vintagerecord.net

House Hotel Bosphorus If these walls could talk... back in the 19th century, the House Hotel Bosphorus located on the banks of the great river, was the private residence of the Ottoman architect Simon Balian. He was a member of a well-known Armenian family who built many imperial buildings in Istanbul – including the impressive Dolmabahçe and Çırağan palaces, which still make their mark on the cityscape to this day. The residence, which has been transformed into a

hotel, scores points not just for its historical charm, but also for the elegant addition of contemporary design, thanks mainly to the Istanbul-based design office Autoban. As far as the interior is concerned, they ensured that whilst retaining the elegant architecture they could also offer guests the highest levels of comfort. The cosy atmosphere is further heightened by the stylish décor of the individual rooms that creatively combine wood,

marble and warm golden tones.

“We welcome our guests as friends,” smiles the hotel manager Bahar Karaca. “We take care of reservations for water taxis, restaurant tables or a relaxing massage right here in the hotel.”

26 rooms and suites are housed in the five-storey building with its wonderful views directly onto the impressive Ortaköy mosque and the Bosphorus bridge, which is beautifully illuminated at night.

The breakfast lounge boasts

an amazing view over the river, where you can watch big cruise ships and small fishing boats float by whilst relishing in the delicacies of Turkish cuisine. The staff at the House Hotel Bosphorus, which most definitely falls into the luxury category, knows exactly how to make your stay so pleasurable that you won’t ever want to leave.

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Somewhat hidden somewhere between Taksim Square and the Galata Tower lies the Milk Gallery, an art gallery and design store in one. The emphasis here is on street art, preferably by local artists, but international talents have also exhibited here.

There are also Pantone mugs for sale, T-shirts by Locomotees and pretty shoulder bags and laptop bags by the Istanbul-based designer Ece Kalabak. The Milk Gallery will soon also be setting up shop as a pop-up store in various locations, which is bound to keep things exciting.

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Cool Cities / Istanbul — Service

Cool Cities / Istanbul — Service

Istanbul Service

Lokanta Helvetia

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Istanbul’s chic upper crust currently likes to hang out at Münferit in the Galatasaray district below Taksim Square.

Whether business dinners or a romantic meal for two – it’s a pleasant place to spend time and the menu is exclusive. There is also a nice outdoor area, which is romantically lit up with candles at night. The exquisite starters like octopus couscous are highly recommended. And Çikolatalı

pim Lokma, a kind of Turkish doughnut with chocolate sauce, is also delicious. If you just want to enjoy a drink at the bar, you can sit back and listen to the relaxing lounge music playing in the background. Reservations are a must because after 8 o’clock in the evening Münferit is always packed to the rafters. www.munferit.com.tr

Trendy cafés as far as the eye can see, studded with the occasional cool restaurant – that’s Karaköy, very much the current on-trend district of Istanbul. Pim just opened a few months ago and is a place where artists, students and tourists meet to chat and hang out. The finely spiced Içli Köfte platter with walnuts and yoghurt tahini or the meatball pita sandwich with spicy sauce and roasted aubergines are sim-

ply sublime. This is where you will really grow to love Turkish cuisine and it’s a cosy place to while away the time. An artist friend of the owners has decorated one of the large side walls with an eyecatching graffiti artwork and the integrated patisserie also offers the finest homemade cakes and tarts. www.pimkarakoy.com

‘Beer Hall, Spice Store – Helvetia’ is written in German in weathered lettering on the building’s wall; a reminder of the fact that the restaurant district around the well-known Tünel (the city’s short underground railway line) used to be a busy area for international gastronomy. Nowadays this is the home of Lokanta Helvetia, which, instead of Swiss cheese fondue or German sausage, offers an incredible range of Turkish mezze. In the smallest space vegetarians and vegans

in particular will find delicacies to delight their palates at unbeatable prices. But making a decision might prove difficult because everything is worth trying, such as the filled pide, aubergine dip, lentils and bulgur salad. Carafes full of water are provided free at all the tables. But a table is hard to come by as the place is so popular.

General Yazgan Sokak 8-12, 34430 Istanbul

Ceneviz Café Ceneviz Café located right next to the historical Galata Tower is not exactly an insider tip, but nevertheless inimitably beautiful. The open-air café is set up like a small amphitheatre. Typical Turkish seating arrangements are spread out on steps, exuding local charm with brightly coloured cushions, blankets and carpets.

Tourists and Istanbul locals alike meet here for the obligatory chai served in dainty glasses with lots

of sugar. It may not be good for your teeth but it’s definitely delicious. Coffee, which in Istanbul is freshly roasted on every second street corner, is also available. The prices are moderate despite the fact that Ceneviz Café is clearly a tourist magnet.

And rightly so!

Fırçacı Sokak No. 4, 34430 Istanbul

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Münferit

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Form, function, experience – over ten years ago, Seyhan Özdemir and Sefer Çağlar established their Istanbul design studio Autoban, which combines western design traditions with eastern elegance. Seyhan Özdemir explains how they go about creating individual concepts that perfectly encapsulate the essence of interior and product design.

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Seyhan Özdemir

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Seyhan Özdemir, born in 1975, grew up and went to school in Istanbul’s Ortaköy district. She then studied architecture at the Mimar Sinan Fine Arts University in Istanbul, where she met Sefer Çağlar, with whom she founded the Autoban design studio.

Today Özdemir lives with her partner and her little daughter in Istanbul’s Beyoğlu district, very close to the Autoban studio.

How did you come up with the idea of calling your design studio ‘Autoban’?

It was originally an insider joke between Sefer and me. I’ve known Sefer Çağlar, with whom I founded Autoban, since we studied together. I was studying architecture and he was studying interior design. Whenever it all got too much for us, one of us always said: Come on, let’s head for the Otoban! ‘Otoban’ is the Turkish word for ‘motorway’ – and we thought it sounded good in other languages too, like ‘Autobahn’ in German. That’s where you go to embark on a journey, to collect new experiences, to meet people. And it’s also somewhere you travel at high speeds. We just thought that sort of inspiration suits the message that we wanted to convey with the name Autoban. Incidentally, the fact that we decided to swap the ‘O’ for ‘Au’ is a little homage to the German band Kraftwerk.

Since you founded the company in 2003 you’ve attained huge success in a relatively short time.

Why do you think that is?

Sefer and I were already working

through life with your eyes open, you’ll find things that inspire new ideas everywhere.”

Cool Cities / Istanbul talks — Seyhan Özdemir, Autoban

“If you go

Autoban

Seyhan Özdemir

on small projects when we were still at university. A few years later we were ready for our own studio and exactly one year later we travelled to Paris to a small tradeshow to present our little portfolio there. That’s the first time we came into contact with the international design world and met press representatives and other designers. Six months later Wallpaper magazine voted us ‘Best Young Designers’ of 2004. And things really started happening quickly after that.

We noticed that almost every other hip restaurant or café here in Istanbul has been designed

by Autoban, as well as exclusive hotels.

Yes, of course we had a bit of luck with the fact that at the same time as we were growing in popularity, Istanbul was also turning into a real centre for art and culture in Turkey. People were suddenly looking for interesting hotspots and places to meet, to talk, exchange ideas and hang out. And the international design scene also started taking an interest in Turkish design. This allowed us to fulfil our artistic

ambitions whilst also staying in Istanbul, our hometown. After that an increasing number of projects abroad followed in cities such as Hong Kong, Madrid and Baku. Meanwhile our design objects, such as lamps and furniture, can be purchased at 50 different sales outlets in around 30 countries.

Has Baku’s airport terminal been your biggest project to date?

Oh yes, and it was a massive challenge. Heydar Aliyev International Airport in the capital of Azerbaijan covers around 60,000 m² and is an international hub.

We knew that we had to retain the highest functionality whilst creating a feel-good experience for the people spending time here. Luckily, tailor-made furniture and unique lighting concepts are our speciality. Materials like wood, stone and textiles are softly lit, and with various ‘cocoons’ we created an inviting landscape, which perfectly combines architecture and art.

Where did the inspiration for this and your other smaller projects come from?

Inspiration is everywhere! If you go through life with your eyes open, you’ll find things that inspire new ideas everywhere. We travel a lot, to meet our clients, and we’re constantly having interesting conversations. But also here in Istanbul we experience a certain energy and an exciting cosmopolitan mix on a daily basis, which of course often also includes a fair bit of chaos. But that’s a good thing, as only imperfection is what challenges us to keep creating something new.

There’s no recipe for creativity; it has to come from within. And you should never say to an artist: do this, do that!

What is the biggest difference between working as an artist and working as an architect?

Architects have a much bigger responsibility towards their client. They have to take in everything that could be relevant. At the beginning of a project we let all of that sink in first: who is the client, what is the space like, and the culture, what is our instinct telling us? We reflect on all of this in depth before we set to work.

Autoban meanwhile employs a staff of 35. Do you always all agree on everything?

That would be terrible! Fortunately Sefer and I have very similar tastes, but agreeing all the time doesn’t get you very far either. We’re able to push each other in an effective way, enabling us to move forward.

In 2014 the German publishing house Gestalten published a book presenting the best of ­Autoban. How did that come about?

After around ten years we had already worked on hundreds of projects, designed the most diverse of spaces and created décor and interior accessories so we really wanted a summary of it all. Like a sort of archive of our ideas. We then came across Gestalten and were quickly on the same page as them. The book allowed us to leave a lot of the things behind us that in retrospect were still on our minds and to concentrate more on the future. After ten years you assess where you are and where else you want to go.

And? We are meanwhile a big team and have already achieved a lot.

In the next few years we want to work more internationally. It’s something that really appeals to us.

Anyone who works a lot also needs their havens of peace and tranquillity. Do you have a place like that?

Absolutely! I love to spend my free time in my 30 m² bathroom.

Quite some time ago we moved into an apartment really close by and completely renovated it.

I mainly used genuine, authentic materials like wood, marble and cast iron which look good and also feel good too. My bathroom, which is my favourite place to relax after a long day at work, features lots of black and white marble, but also quite a few playful details that make it look like a luxury bathroom from the turn of the century. It’s a wonderful place to relax – and also come up with new ideas!

Thank you very much for the interview!

Design studio Autoban was founded in 2003 by Seyhan Özdemir and Sefer Çağlar. Özdemir and Çağlar. The dynamic duo met at Mimar Sinan Fine Arts University, whose architecture department is oriented on Classic Modernism.

Just one year later in 2014 they were presented with the ‘Best Young Designers Award’. Since then they have participated in tradeshows all over the world.

In addition to many projects in Istanbul they completed their first international commission in 2010 in Hong Kong, followed by others in Madrid and Baku.

Today Autoban employs a staff of 35 and sells its product design from 50 sales outlets in around 30 countries.

Autoban offers architecture, interior design and product design concepts for restaurants, hotels and larger projects, like Baku Airport.

In January 2014 the Gestalten Verlag published a 320-page, linen-bound book about Autoban, which documents their many different projects with photographs and architectural plans.

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Cool Cities / Istanbul talks — Seyhan Özdemir, Autoban

Istanbul Talks Seyhan Özdemir

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Orta Anadolu produces a tremendous 60 million metres of denim per year, which it supplies to jeans brands from all over the world. Deputy General Manager Ebru Debbağ has been working for the Turkish denim weavers for 20 years and during this time she has witnessed all developments at first hand. She knows that material samples alone are no longer in keeping with the times and why you sometimes need a pole dancer to get your point across.

Ebru Debbağ Ebru Debbağ is the Deputy General Manager at Orta Anadolu and is responsible for sales, marketing and product development.

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She studied textile engineering at the Technical University Istanbul and also has a Master’s degree in business.

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Her career in the denim industry spans more than 20 years, during which she has also launched Orta Blu, which develops social projects with global partners like UNICEF and the BCI (Better Cotton Initiative).

Ebru is a certified yoga teacher and also trains children and young people at a sailing school in Istanbul.

You came to Istanbul when you were a young girl. Has the city changed very much since then?

No doubt about it! I came to Istanbul with my family in the eighties, from a small town in the south. Even back then it was a huge opportunity, when Istanbul only had a population of around five million. Officially it meanwhile has over 14 million, unofficially even more. The city is booming and has become a lot more urban. Global influences are instantly integrated here.

Istanbul is, of course, also the centre for art and fashion.

And Orta Anadolu will have no doubt changed a lot since then...

You can say that again! I have been working at Orta for around 22 years. I studied textile engineering at the Technical University of Istanbul and then took part in a trainee programme for prospective managers with the company. I’ve been here ever since and am really familiar with all the workflows and developments – and I’m still fascinated

Cool Cities / IStanbul Talks —Ebru Debbağ, Orta Anadolu

Orta Orta Anadolu was founded in 1953 as a spinning and weaving mill. The company was restructured in 1985 and started producing denim. Today Orta produces over 60 million metres of denim in Turkey and Bahrain. Transparency, commitment and reliability are key to the company philosophy. In 2010 Orta therefore established the Orta Blu department, which is dedicated to social and sustainability projects.

“We firmly believe that people can and should give something back to society.”

by everything that’s possible. For example, back then we only had five different fabrics to show. Today we have 1500 different ones.

What is the biggest innovation the denim sector has seen in the last few years?

Definitely the developments of stretch materials. We presented the first fabric for stretch jeans in 1999. Back then it was really only Fiorucci that you could have called a pioneer. Nowadays it’s hard to imagine the denim sector without stretch, especially because stretch models look like classic, robust jeans. The very first designs felt more like rubber on the skin and looked a bit like that too. But when you combine a cool look with comfort, you’re basically on the right path. Stretch has meanwhile even established itself amongst men who had resisted it for so long because they thought it was too feminine. But in everyday life – especially if you’re sitting in the car a lot, etc. – there is indeed nothing more comfy, and

if the look is rough enough then men will love it too. The modern coatings are also an important subject. Not just for fashionable, appearance-related reasons, but because we now have coatings like ‘Silver Denim’, which ensure that the garment is dirt-repellent and therefore doesn’t have to be washed as often. The inspiration for this, by the way, comes from the army sector, is also used in hospitals and is very much suitable for everyday wear, as the end result is less energy and water consumption. Consumers are realising that they can make their own contribution – even if it’s just by turning on their washing machine less often. There are so many innovations and options here. Denim will never lose its appeal!

Keyword: green fingerprint?

Absolutely! The topic of sustainability concerns us a lot, but it also comes with a dilemma. The question is always how much the customer is willing to pay at the end of the day. It’s clear

that denim production is linked to high water consumption, and that’s something we’re working on. A close cooperation with BCI (editor’s note: Better Cotton Initiative) is also important to us. Turkey is one of the biggest cotton-growing regions, and we should be taking a leading role in the organic cotton sector. Another approach is philanthropic, as we firmly believe that people can and should give something back to society. Under the name Orta

“Denim will never lose its appeal!”

Blu we are building up a community that deals with the subjects of innovation, sustainability and social responsibility down to

charity projects, for example in cooperation with UNICEF. There’s a lot that can be done, and at Orta there’s a permanent evolution happening. Not just in terms of the product range, but also in a wider context.

How difficult is it to keep having to present different customers with new ideas and innovations that revolve around the subject of denim?

You can’t stop developing! It’s so incredibly important to understand who your customer is. You have to really immerse yourself in the subject: what message will our customer convey to the outside world? What is their marketing strategy? What do the stores look like, and which PR measures are in place already?

When we know all of that we are also in a better position to meet the demands of the customers – preferably before they draw our attention to what they would like to have. In the past we just travelled around with a few material samples. But that just

doesn’t cut it anymore! Instead we present small tailor-made collections, based on different design ideas, which show all the possible options. This is how we convey complex messages, and it shows that we’re already thinking about the end consumers.

Are these ideas all developed here in Turkey?

No, we work together with designers and creative studios from all over the world, in order to create the most varied capsule collections. We have global consultants everywhere, who work for us and interpret new trends. These days it all has to happen a lot faster than in the past. Back then we visited our customers, for example in Italy, and spent the whole day with them, had lengthy discussions and then we all went for a leisurely meal together. Nobody has that much time anymore. We have to make our concept clear and straight to the point, also in the form of small events so our customer instantly understands

our message. For example, we had a few pole dancers perform in our stretch jeans. That really hit home and perfectly demonstrated the incredible flexibility of these fabrics!

So creativity doesn’t stop with the new development of fabrics?

That’s where it starts! Technology, design ... it’s all a very dynamic process. One of our major upcoming projects will be the opening of an Orta Innovation Lab in New York City in the first quarter of 2015. It will be a sort of a coexisting space, which we can invite young artists to. Fresh minds from whom we can learn a lot and who can also learn from us. So in the end everyone profits and learns from one another.

Thank you very much for the interview! www.ortaanadolu.com.

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Cool Cities / Istanbul Talks — Ebru Debbağ, Orta Anadolu

Istanbul Talks Ebru Debbağ

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For six years Cüneyt Yavuz has been CEO at Mavi, the most successful denim label in Turkey. Dressed in jeans and sneakers, the cheerful citizen of the world with AmericanPolish-Greek roots welcomed us to the Istanbul headquarters to chat about the Mavi success story, the Turkish identity and why he believes women are ‘leaders of change’.

Cüneyt Yavuz Mavi’s CEO began his professional career at Procter & Gamble in 1992.

During the following 16 years he held various sales and marketing positions at the company, where he managed the brands Duracell, Oral-B, Braun and Gillette, for Turkey as well as Eastern Europe, the Balkans and Israel.

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As Country Director of the entire portfolio of Procter & Gamble for Poland and the Balkans, he lived in Warsaw for five years, and then in Geneva.

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Since November 2008 Cüneyt Yavuz has been responsible for Mavi as CEO, during which time the brand’s turnover and profit have tripled.

Mr Yavuz, for a CEO you have a very casual look.

I’m not a big shot kind of guy, I don’t need an expensive Rolex on my wrist or a chauffeur to ferry me around. Instead I prefer the natural respect that people give me as a person – and not because I’m an important man working at a big company. This attitude is also reflected in our office in Istanbul. The door is always open here. If I demand passion and energy from my employees in their work, I have to set an example too.

How important is your Turkish identity to you?

Important, in a positive sense!

Last century a whole generation worked at making Turkey interesting from an economic perspective. This meant that we made a big name for ourselves on a global level, as far as the

Cool Cities / Istanbul talks – Cüneyt Yavuz, Mavi

“If I demand passion and energy from my employees in their work, I have to set an example too.”

“When you’ve found a certain niche,

Cüneyt Yavuz

you have to constantly keep moving.”

production of a variety of different products is concerned – including, of course, denim.

Then the second generation – in which I include Mavi founder Sait Akarlılar – wanted to create something with a little more sex appeal, something that awakens passion and desire. So he decided to create his own brand; after all, the know-how regarding production was already there.

The name Mavi was also quickly found: it means ‘blue’ in Turkish, which fits in wonderfully with the topic of jeans and also sounds good in all languages.

And the long-standing cooperation with denim guru Adriano Goldschmied, who understood us and helped us move forward, was also very significant. The fact that we didn’t just copy the big American brands – which of course were also very popular here in Turkey when Mavi was

founded in 1991 – turned out to our advantage. After just five years we were the market leader in Turkey!

And with that auspicious start the brand was then able to expand?

Exactly! Our first venture was on the North-American and Canadian markets. After all, our motto was that whoever makes it in these countries, which have a huge denim history and expertise, can make it anywhere. And that’s how it happened too ... we quickly achieved a high level of popularity, especially amongst a female clientele.

How do you explain that?

For me, women are the ‘leaders of change’ – always willing to experiment and seek change. Men, on the other hand, are more stubborn when it comes to stick-

ing with the brand that they have always bought. I remember this phenomenon very well from my time at Gillette. Trying to get men enthusiastic about a razor made by a different brand than the one they’re used to is incredibly difficult. But meanwhile Mavi sells more men’s jeans in the USA, which is a good sign. In Germany, on the other hand, 70 percent of the jeans we sell are women’s models. And in an international context it’s about half and half.

So we’re very pleased.

What are the most important sales aspects? Your own stores, shop-in-shops, online shopping?

In general we are closely observing the various different approaches to shopping. Here in Turkey, for example, there are more new shopping malls opening up. Which in turn has opened up interesting oppor-

tunities for us. In Germany you have the classic, well-developed city centres with their classic urban planning: the train station here, the pedestrian zone there.

So when we open a new store in Munich or Frankfurt, it’s a whole different challenge. The internet aspect is an essential part of it all, and the question shouldn’t be ‘whether’, but ‘how’. There’s no more turning the wheel back now, and we have to make sure that we integrate the online side of it as well as possible. Retail won’t become extinct because of this. Fashion brands also have to offer a certain entertainment factor and interaction – which works wonderfully online; and that’s what we’re concentrating on. The DNA of the consumers is revealed accurately on the internet, and that’s what makes it really interesting at the end of the day. For example, Ger-

man customers try to make sure they’re getting very good value for money: quality is important, but they want it at a reasonable price. And you’re also very service-oriented in Germany, aren’t you?

That’s correct! And that fits in with Mavi?

Very well, actually! You can get a great pair of jeans from us for 69 euros, which you’ll only find for 159 euros in the same quality elsewhere, but ours aren’t cheap mass-produced goods. German customers really appreciate this.

Germany is like a huge luxury liner, moving slowly and invincibly through the huge ocean. We, on the other hand, are small, but dynamic and can quickly adapt to the relevant market. And of course this also applies to the store design, which we regularly adapt and change. When you’ve

found a certain niche, you have to constantly keep moving. Never stand still. This approach means we grow by 10 to 15 percent per year.

How important are fixed objectives? And how do they affect flexibility?

Success doesn’t happen by chance! Every year we sit down together and draw up a threeyear plan. And then we look at the rankings of big companies and decide that we want to improve from fifth to third place in the men’s fashion sector for example. How many pairs of jeans do we have to sell to achieve this? What about shirts? Men usually have more shirts than jeans in their wardrobe. So if we sell x pairs of jeans, we could also sell x additional shirts at the same time, etc. It all boils down to figures at the end of the day.

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Cool Cities / Istanbul talks – Cüneyt Yavuz, Mavi

Istanbul Talks Cüneyt Yavuz

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Cool Cities / Istanbul talks – Cüneyt Yavuz, Mavi

Passt. Figur perfekt.

“Women are always willing to experiment and seek change.”

Mavi Mavi, which is the Turkish word for ‘blue’ was founded in 1991 by Sait Akarlılar in Istanbul and is the first Turkish brand to achieve global ranking.

Today Mavi is one of the leading jeans brands in Europe and is represented in 50 countries. In addition to quality and very good value for money, the focus is on the perfect fit; Mavi offers 50 different kinds.

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There are meanwhile around 5000 points of sale worldwide, 350 of which are the label’s own retail stores. In Germany, Austria and Switzerland alone Mavi has over 120 shop-inshops.

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Additional store openings and shop-in-shops are in the pipeline.

Stonewashed – even the roughest pebbles are left with a sanded, smooth finish after countless washes.

Washing, dyeing, sewing – the most modern methods are used at the Mavi factory near Istanbul.

It all sounds very dry...

No, it’s a lot of fun. The designers also contribute their know-how: what are the trends, what about additional accessories? Around our core subject of jeans we come up with a whole lifestyle world. That has a lot to do with creativity. How is the store design being received? Whereabouts in the store were the products placed that sold the best? We have a proper category management process, which we are constantly updating.

Is sustainability a topic?

There’s no doubt about it: sustainability is a must! We are beginning to realise that the consumer isn’t really demanding it, but to wait until the customer is figuratively holding a gun to our heads is out of the question.

It’s up to us to set the standards here! I am proud to be able to say that we don’t make any compromises and are still below all of the limits we have officially set ourselves, whether it’s regarding the use of water or chemicals.

Sandblasting, the treatment with silicon dioxide, is not something we use. Everything has to be right! Not just the final product, but also the working conditions, fair pay and the corresponding quality checks. We have always been very careful about who we work with and who our subcontractors are. I want to be able to look myself in the eye with a good conscience. And I can!

Thank you very much for talking to us!

www.atelier-gardeur.de

Anna Loos & Jan Josef Liefers, Markenbotschafter von Atelier GARDEUR

Lord of the Bugs Just like his idols – Martin Margiela, Boudicca and Viktor & Rolf – Manuel Bolaño loves experimenting. Under the watchful eyes of an armada of more than 50 Barbie dolls – a homage to his 16 cousins – the Catalan fashion designer works on

his rigorously designed avant-garde collections. Every season, Bolaño singles out one of his friends or relatives and creates an entire fashion universe around their personalities.

At 080 Barcelona Fashion, the biannual fashion event that showcases the best collections from the Iberian peninsula, Bolaño’s intricately worked and extravagant designs regularly stand out. They are so extravagant, in fact, that they have already caught the attention of the world’s greatest glamour queen, Lady Gaga, who ordered a particularly outlandish item. We met the shy, red-haired, hazel-eyed Bolaño at his atelier in a Modernist apartment in the chic Barcelona district of Eixample.

So why did you stop working for Mango?

Well, here in Spain, especially at big companies, it’s frowned upon to work as a designer and develop your own label at the same time. But I didn’t want to stop expressing myself through my own designs.

Manuel, you have just turned 30. Is this a significant age?

Is it a milestone birthday for you?

No, being 30 doesn’t really mean anything to me. But being eight was a significant age for me. That’s when my parents decided to leave Barcelona and move to Galicia – a place that seemed foreign, dark, rainy and unwelcoming. I didn’t want to go there and had to leave everything behind. Ten years later, when I was 18, I came back to Barcelona to study – and I’ve lived here for the past 12 years.

But it’s interesting that you’ve borrowed elements of traditional Galician crochet work in your latest collection. Is this one of the many contradictions that you’re renowned for?

Perhaps, yes. In retrospect, I like the spirit of Galicia. And I like Galician traditions. My mother and grandmother were gifted craftswomen. The patterns and materials that I saw them use when I was a child still inspire me today. I particularly remember the underwear that they crocheted for my sister.

Your sixth collection also displayed a lot of crochet work and was dedicated to your mother.

Yes, and unfortunately she wasn’t able to see the launch because she passed away two weeks before it. The rest of my family didn’t tell me that she’d died until the presentation was over because it was so close to my show.

“I probably design these kinds of clothes because I’d like to be more extroverted myself.”

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Manuel BolaÑo

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Brands & Brains — Manuel Bolaño, Barcelona

Manuel Bolaño

Manuel Bolano designs his eccentric collections surrounded by inspiring objects and curiosities.

Despite clearly being a fountain of creativity, you also worked as a designer for Mango. How was that for you?

You may not believe it but I enjoyed it very much. It was great to be set a task and then be able to fulfil it – almost better than having to start every season from scratch like I do now, and dreaming it all up.

In 2007 you won the Young Designer Award at the Bread & Butter in Barcelona. Did that give your career a significant boost?

Winning the prize meant that I was given support with my distribution. My collection became available in several shops, which obviously enhanced my profile.

And how is it today?

Today, I sell my collection at two shops in Barcelona and one in Pamplona. I have one client in the Lebanon – and four outlets in Hong Kong. Unfortunately, it’s still difficult to establish yourself as a young designer in Spain because business there is founded on big, well-known, traditional labels, and buyers are too scared to give newcomers a chance.

Have you ever thought about turning your back on Spain for this reason?

No, not seriously, because I teach fashion here at a design school, which I really enjoy. But if it was possible, Antwerp or Tokyo would be my first choices.

How would you describe your approach?

My collections are always very much based on craftsmanship – and always have a very personal background. I dedicate every collection to a special person who is close to me, either from my circle of friends or my family. People say that my collections have a high recognition value. But I couldn’t say what it is exactly that makes them recognisable for others.

What was the inspiration for your spring/summer collection 2015, for example?

One of my friends was the inspiration for this collection.

He’s covered in tattoos of insects, which is why I developed insect patterns for the material – and it also features butterfly collars, and translucent, wing-like sleeves. He has this habit of never being able to keep his hands still, and playing

Manuel Bolaño Born in 1984 and grew up in Barcelona and Galicia.

Began his studies at the Felicidad Duce (FDModa) in 2002, which he completed in 2007.

For a brief period he worked with the Mango design team before becoming self-employed with his own collection.

In 2007 he was awarded the prize for the best collection among his final year students at Bread & Butter Barcelona.

Further awards followed, from Madrid’s Young Creators Contest, as well as the Festival Nuovo in Santagio de Compostela, and participation in the Projecte Bressol, a fashion project by the Generalitat de Catalunya.

His first collection Viudas (Widows) was presented in September 2008 at the 080 Barcelona Fashion show.

In March 2009, his collection Peliqueiro (the peliqueiro is the central figure in the carnival in Laza, a small community in southern Galicia) was also shown at the 080 Barcelona Fashion festival, and at the Rendez-Vous Femme exhibition in Paris.

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Brands & Brains — Manuel Bolaño, Barcelona

Interview Ilona Marx photos Eduardo Miera

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Brands & Brains — Manuel Bolaño, Barcelona

with paper, so I picked up on this in a dress using traditional folding methods from origami.

You have a reputation for being very introverted but you’ve designed a dress for the most extroverted person imaginable, Lady Gaga. And apart from this, wearing your collection requires quite a lot of self-confidence. How do you explain this contradiction?

Well, I probably design these kinds of clothes because I’d like to be more extroverted myself. The thing with Lady Gaga was really quite crazy. A friend of mine works for V Magazine and received a call from her stylist saying that she wanted to see some of my designs. She chose a pink leather dress with a teddy bear head on each shoulder. It’s really flamboyant!

You once said that, given the chance, you’d like to dress Helena Bonham Carter. What fascinates you about her?

For me, she embodies tradition and individuality – I almost feel as if she is a soul mate. She’s apparently a very warmhearted person who keeps close contact with her friends, but at the same time she seems mysterious, even bordering on the unapproachable. I think her way of dressing is perfect. She combines unique classics and high fashion brands with striking designs in a very skilful way. And yet she seems very down-to-earth.

the illustrator Conrad Roset, who paints very romantic images of women. How do you view contemporary women?

I like women who are traditional, on the one hand, who take care of their families and are there for their children, but who are open, fond of travelling and fashionable as well. My mother was this kind of woman. It’s an attitude that’s reflected in my collections. I enjoy combining traditional patterns from the 1950s, for example, with modern materials.

I also see a lot of romanticism and mystique in your collections. Are you superstitious?

Not always. I don’t pay attention to black cats, for example, but nor do I put shoes on the table. It’s unlucky. Apart from that I have a little mascot – the red-haired Blythe doll behind you, who comes with me every time I travel. Since I’ve had her with me, everything has run a lot more smoothly.

Do you have an aim in life, or a dream? (laughing) Yes, I’d like to work for Alexander McQueen at some point. Or Galliano or Dior. And I’d love to add L’Eclaireur in Paris to my list of clients.

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Thank you very much for talking to us!

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It’s also been said that you’re very contradictory. And when you were younger, you had very different ideas about what you wanted to be: a mathematician, a gynaecologist – and, of course, a fashion designer. You seem to have very eclectic interests!

Well, yes, that’s true. I love maths, and I could well imagine devoting myself to it entirely. My favourite aunt was a doctor and I had 16 female cousins from my mother’s side, but only three male cousins. That’s why I started thinking about becoming a gynaecologist. But in the end, the very same favourite aunt encouraged me to become a fashion designer, which wasn’t seen as a real profession in my family. For the first time in my life, I didn’t hesitate for a moment. Two days after I’d made the decision, I was on my way to Barcelona to study there. I can give you a good example of when I’ve hesitated, though. During my studies, a professor offered me a job as an accessories designer for Alexander McQueen. And although – or precisely because – I was a great fan of his, I turned it down. Not necessarily because I didn’t feel up to the job, but because I didn’t want to destroy the image I had of Alexander McQueen by subjecting it to reality.

You say you feel inspired by the Japanese artist Aida Makoto, who has earned fame from his erotic Manga creations. But at the same time, you work closely alongside

www.manuelbolano.com

PREMIUM BERLIN H 3 – A 08 www. d ey k . c o m

Brands & Brains — Police 883, PRESTON

Brands & Brains — Police 883, PRESTON

Interview Ilona Marx photos Bernd Wichmann

883 Police

“We gotta go and never stop going till we get there.”

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883 Police has a unique company history.

The creators of the menswear label, who own the Zabou company, harnessed their decades of expertise in the only way that made sense: after having manufactured everything from £2 supermarket jeans to £400 designer jeans, they realised it was

time to move on and create their own label. To support their production experience they hired a design team – and also got rid of any unnecessary ballast at the same time. Only 883 Police, a label founded in Milan, which Zabou had taken on, remained in their portfolio.

Right from the start the inspiration for the line was provided by Jack Kerouac’s ‘On the Road’ and the Harley Davidson ‘883’ models of the New York City Police Department. And together with his design team, Faiz Musa, brand coordinator and head of 833 Police, has been developing and fine-tuning the style of the collection since its launch in the mid-90s. Now they are really turning up the heat in order to take the international markets by storm with their line, which has matured into a lifestyle brand. We spoke to the boyish and extremely eloquent Faiz Musa in his hometown of Preston, previously a northern English denim hotspot, and base of the Zabou headquarters which, if the company keeps up the pace, will soon be famous for being the home of 883 Police.

pretty much all market segments, and the distributors and partners to go with it. In the late 1990s production almost ground to a halt here in Preston with all the companies outsourcing to countries offering cheap labour. Of all the manufacturing companies here we were the last to give up.

We tried to see it through to the end and remain competitive until we were the only ones left. And then the opportunity to run our own brand came up with 883 Police, an opportunity we had long been waiting for.

Although 883 Police is quite new on the market, the production location of Preston and the Zabou company already have a long history. Can you tell me something about the background?

Yes, to sum up: Zabou is a former production company that has been producing denim for a whole range of price segments since 1987. The building we’re in now, which is currently the beating heart and control centre of 883 Police, used to house 500 sewing machines on which only jeans were sewn. In the 1980s to mid-1990s Preston was the hub of denim manufacturing. In a radius of three miles around our company site there were around 50 manufacturers and finishers.

Following extensive renovations, Zabou’s premises in Preston now have a fresh new look. Particularly impressive is the building’s highly modern security technology.

Every door at the company head-

quarters is fitted with a fingerprint scanner. So 883 is not only state of the art from a technical point of view, but also in terms of its ­appearance and interior design.

What price segment did you make jeans for?

We made jeans for £2 that were then sold in supermarkets, as well as jeans for Paul Smith and Nigel Cabourn that went on to be sold for £400. So our expertise covered

Brand History 883 Police was founded in Milan in the early 90s.

The focus in 2015 will be on developing the brand from a purely denim brand into a lifestyle label.

40% of its collection is denim.

Production is carried out in a total of 11 countries including Tunisia, Turkey, India and the Far East.

The label works with its own sourcing offices.

It has 140 retailers in the UK and 300 to 350 worldwide. www.883police.com

In what year did you take over the brand for 883 Police?

That was in 1995. We had been looking for an option like that for a while and accidentally stumbled on the brand.

The owners are based in Milan and have been producing high-quality men’s shoes for between 200 and 300 euros since the early nineties. Because there wasn’t really a market for these products in Britain, the Italians sold the license. We were then allowed to sell clothing and even shoes – the latter of course not on the Italian market. The products that we had in our portfolio – detailed, biker-style denims – suited the image and name of 883 Police down to the ground. So we started out with jeans in the mid-nineties and soon realised there was a demand for what we had to offer. This success encouraged us to expand the product range.

So you make quality products at very affordable prices.

Who would you consider to be your competition?

Three or four years ago we were surrounded by mid-price brands, between 30 and 40 I’d guess, that have meanwhile all disappeared. But the process of sorting the wheat from the chaff meant that we came out of it even stronger and could gain market shares as we went. Now we see ourselves

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— ‘On the Road’ by Jack Kerouac

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Brands & Brains — Police 883, preston

as the competition to international brands like G-Star and Diesel. Brands that invest a lot in marketing and that have been around for 20 or 30 years. We, in contrast, are still a very young brand and are still learning. The most important thing for us at the moment is to develop our lifestyle, our message and our image and to convey that to a young target audience. And we want to open our own stores. We plan to start in London in 2016.

You say that young people nowadays travel differently.

How does that manifest itself?

The biggest difference is what they ultimately want to achieve. Before, you would take a rucksack and just head off without thinking about where you were going. Now they still want to do that, however it’s not just about trying to find themselves but about dipping into an identity that already exists. Certainly the world has become smaller through social media and other channels. People are so much better informed now. They want to get to know themselves and the world, but have to get out there and make their own experiences. Whereas, before it was totally going into the unknown. Now we have all the options all over the world. We have the freedom to ask: What do I want to do and where do I want to do it?

What are your most important plans for the future?

The biggest challenge for us right now is moving into international markets. 18 months ago we entered the US market for the first time. We are now also represented in the Far East. And over the past 12 months, we’ve also started in India and South Africa.

The restaurant, which actually looks like a restaurant and not at all like a canteen, is the heart of the new headquarters. After all, the team at 883 Police attaches great importance to food. And there is also a prayer room for the employees. A large showroom, opening at the beginning of the year, will attract even more 883 Police friends to Preston.

What makes you different from the competition?

The value for money we offer. We don’t claim to be making the best jeans in the world or the best T-shirts. But we do claim to make the best 80-euro jeans in the world. And the best 30-euro T-shirts.

How can you offer such value for money?

We have decades of production experience and from these years we still have good contacts to the production facilities who we work with directly – we currently have facilities in eleven countries. So unlike many of our competitors we don’t have an agency to act as the middle-man when it comes to foreign production. This means we save on commissions. Money that we can invest in the quality.

You appeal to a generally younger target group. Do these customers share your high quality standards?

No, not necessarily, at least not initially. That’s why at first sight it might seem foolish to insist on using good materials and finishing. But because we have a production background we just can’t help ourselves. Although I have to say: the young target group may not care about quality at first sight. They grew up with H&M and Zara and haven’t yet developed a real sense of quality. What counts primarily for these consumers is style, the brand and the price.

And that’s where we have to meet them. The fact that our items are of a high quality is something that counts further down the line: like when they are standing in front of their wardrobe and keep finding themselves opting for their 883 Police jeans. Simply because they feel so good to wear.

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You started out with menswear. Are you also planning a womenswear line?

Yes, once we start opening our stores, we will definitely be doing womenswear.

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The inspiration for 883 Police originally came from Jack Kerouac’s novel ‘On the Road’. Is his book still relevant to the collection?

Sure, that’s still our inspiration. But it’s very important that we bring it into a 2015 context. We will always have people who like our brand for its original identity, but we have to move into the current consumer target audience. We believe people still want freedom and enjoy travelling, but in a completely different way than back in Kerouac’s day.

So do you tailor the collections to the different markets?

The collection is still very much the same overall, but we are trying to listen to the requirements of the different markets and bring those influences into our brand as well. It’s always been influenced by Italy and America. Now we have to react to trends in the Far East and African countries – as well as America. We have a clear identity, but we want to meet the demands of all these markets. That’s not difficult for us though. We don’t have to work very hard at introducing ourselves. People look at the collection and instantly see what makes it different. That’s why I think people are interested. Because we’re offering them something they’re not getting from the other brands on the market.

Thanks for the interview. It has been a pleasure talking to you.

Brands & Brains — Dr. Martens, WOllaston

Text Jemima Gnacke

Dr. Martens

Standing the Test of Time Blogs and fashion magazines are full of them right now. Everywhere from Berlin and Tokyo, to Copenhagen and New York, Dr. Martens has undergone a modern Social media has been pushing the international hype because it fits in perfectly with the current nineties trend.

Back then it was grunge and punk bands in particular who declared Doc Martens as the triumphant footwear choice of anti-heroes. Nowadays it’s pop stars or the fashionconscious youth movement who are wearing them to add a rough, rebellious edge to their look. And it’s working very successfully, because the brand is moving with the times and not afraid of reinventing itself. Brand manager Kristin Staeren knows the reasons for this growing popularity: “Dr. Martens is a brand with a lot of soul and many different facets, which works in the high-end sector, in a vintage context or on the Goth scene. It fits in everywhere!”

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Dr. Martens – An alternative Shortly after the Second World War the German doctor Klaus Maertens developed the first prototype as an alternative to uncomfortable safety boots. The result: sturdy boots made of leather and rubber with an air-cushioned sole. A classic case of up-cycling, as most of the materials were salvaged and reused, such as the rubber from abandoned Luftwaffe airfields that was used for the soles. Maertens was the initiator and namesake of the brand. But the actual story of Dr. Martens only began when the British R. Griggs & Company acquired the license in the sixties and removed the first ‘e’ from the name. They adapted the free spirit of the founder and continued making the boots in large-scale production. Thanks to them, the extremely robust and durable boot with the famous yellow stitching developed into a symbol for working-class fashion of the period. A shoe for the working class, the perfect footwear for protesting in, yet still enough of a classic to be an individual projection surface for future generations. Even the skinheads managed to imbue the sturdy boot with their own message, which didn’t always have positive associations.

global revival. Whether punk or hipster, the famous boots simply appeal to every scene.

Stand for Something Even since Dr. Martens was acquired in 2013 by the financial investor Permira, the brand has stayed true to its nonconformist image. However, the clientele of today is a lot more diverse and the design is a lot more versatile. The former niches of youth subcultures are merging. “We’re trying to position ourselves more broadly as a non-fashion brand in order to be more accessible to the masses. Colours and prints are helping us to shed the traditional Doc Martens black-only look,” explains Kristin Staeren. And it looks like this approach is working. A lot of fans are pulling their old Docs out of the back of their shoe cupboards and celebrating their patina, but the new generation is enjoying experimenting with the brand’s attempts at innovations. Unworn and stiff, in pink, patent leather or glitter are the looks they are going for. It’s no longer comfort or convictions that are at the foreground, but style. This coming summer, floral and tattoo prints will be playing just as much a role as the monotone look: with the boots and their soles in the same colour. As the central success model, the focus remains on the boot, but the classic low shoes are also gaining in significance and becoming narrower. The somewhat unconventional strappy sandals are forming a newer line for the ladies, which also counters the wintry look of the boots.

So Dr. Martens is heading out of familiar waters and into open seas. With their innovative approach they have already taken countries like England, America and Italy by storm. The German market, according to Kristin Staeren, is still proving a little difficult. But as the number one Dr. Martens city, London is proving eternal loyalty and demonstrating the diversity of the brand in all its facets.

With the current slogan ‘Stand for Something’ everyone can feel as if they belong to their own movement, as long as it’s not superficial. It remains to be seen how long the hype will continue. But if they are well looked after, a pair of Dr. Martens will outlive a few turns of the tide – or at least until the next revival. www.drmartens.com

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c on t em porary f ash ion t ra de s how

a utumn / winter 2015 / 16 NEW LOCATION

January 19 t h - 21 s t 2015 ARENA BERLIN

w w w .seekexh ibit ion s.com

Retail & Architecture — The Upcycling Fashion Store, Berlin

Text Gerlind Hector Photos Matteo Cerescioli

The upcycling Fashion store / Berlin

Upcycle your Life!

S P R I N G . S U M M E R 16

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Four young Berliners decided to throw the classic idea of consumerism out the window and set up their own fashion label. And on top of that they also opened up their own concept store, which is one of the few examples that truly deserves the concept store tag.

After all, you’d be hard-pressed to find more thought, vision and consistency elsewhere.

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The term ‘concept store’ is one that the international fashion pack is getting a little tired of hearing. Because in most cases the ‘crazy concept’ is restricted to a few items of clothing and three home interior accessories, plus one or two dry cupcakes for good measure. A unique and authentic concept is more of an exception to the rule – but at The Upcycling Fashion Store it’s an integral part of the approach, and hard to top in terms of variety.

Here, on Anklamer Strasse in Berlin-Mitte, a small store has, almost unnoticed, become the mecca of upcycling fashion and everything that goes along with it. Four young entrepreneurs, who definitely had more in mind

than getting a smart fashion label off the ground, are behind the exciting concept. Arianna Nicoletti, Carina Bischof, Luise Barsch and Jonathan Leupert are living their dream here, in every respect: their electricity is powered by renewable energy from Grüner Strom, the money transactions are handled by GLS Bank, which is a cooperative bank run on social and ecological principles, and even when it comes to food the four owners opt for organic.

Around four years ago they joined forces and founded their upcycling-fashion label Aluc, which initially only focused on blouses and shirts. They have since also added accessories.

Basically, the principle is simple:

residual items from the textile and clothing industry, known in the industry jargon as ‘dead stock’, don’t land in the rubbish, but come to Aluc where the team integrate the remaining stock back into the consumer cycle by redesigning it. Their trademark is the interchangeable button-off collars, which make any shirt or blouse a versatile multi-talent.

“We wanted to counter the unnecessary use of valuable resources in Germany too,” remembers Luise, who met most of her fellow Aluc comrades in London, or to be precise: whilst working for Orsola de Castro who founded From Somewhere, the first British upcyclingfashion label. Orsola de Castro is frequently mentioned as a big

source of inspiration for the four highly motivated store owners, who aren’t afraid of the competition. In their store, which covers an approx. area of 70 m², they not only sell their own label but also products by Milch from Austria, Globe Hope from Finland and From Somewhere from Britain. All of the fashion and the accessories have an upcycling background, which is usually hard to tell at first glance.

It really is hard to believe that the sweet butterfly necklace has been made out of an old computer circuit board or the chic LBD is made from only one single pair of discarded men’s trousers. They also refused to make any compromises where the interior is concerned, so

02 + 03 FEBRUARY 2015 M UNIC HFAB R ICS TART. COM

I N T E R N AT I O N A L D E N I M T R A D E FA I R

Retail & Architecture — The Upcycling Fashion Store, Berlin

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The Upcycling Fashion Store Anklamer Strasse 17 10115 Berlin T +49 (0) 162 6128064 www.upcycling-fashion.com

Labels

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207, Aluc, Carin Fürst, Deaf­ messanger, From Somewhere, Globe Hope, Milch, Mija T. Rosa, Oldgold, Pamoyo, ReClothings, Reet Aus, Sag + Sal, Schmidttakahashi, Steinwidder, Trash Design Manufaktur

from the clothing rails to the sales counter down to the watering can lighting, they have made sure that they make the best of any residual stock.

The four Aluc founders are only too happy to pass on their experience and knowledge about upcycling to others. Every last Tuesday in the month designers, photographers and other fashion enthusiasts meet here on Anklamer Strasse to exchange

ideas and opinions at the fashion meet-up ‘Strich und Faden’. “We enjoy being the central port of call for young company founders, who are looking to combine cool fashion with a good conscience,” emphasises Carina. Sometimes the focus is on viral marketing, sometimes on specific production tips.

In September 2013 The Upcycling Fashion Store’s unique store concept won them the Fa!r-

Handelspreis award in the textile retail category. Arianna, Carina, Luise and Jonathan actually have a vision and a message that makes sense, which is that we seriously need to rethink our throwaway mentality. After all, with slow instead of cheap fashion and an appreciation of raw materials, fashion suddenly becomes twice as fun, because a good conscience is guaranteed.

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Retail & Architecture — The Listener, Frankfurt

Retail & Architecture — The Listener, Frankfurt

TExt Fredericke Winkler

The Listener, Frankfurt

Listen Up!

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High ceilings with old factory lamps hanging down on heavy chains. A gallery opens up the view to a second floor. Hanging on the walls are picture frames containing worn jeans on blackboards, like works of art. Written in chalk, they have titles like ‘Levi’s 501 from 1983’. Meticulously arranged sixties furniture, rugs, wooden elements and a little bar go hand in hand with the otherwise industrial-looking rough look of the space, the patterned cement tiles and steel details. A vintage motorcycle on the opposite side of the wall counteracts its tidy surroundings. There is a gramophone on the sales counter; a nod to the entertainment of bygone times and a luxury in today’s plug-andplay society. With all of these impressions you might have to

temporarily push the actual reason for your visit to the back of your mind upon entering the 600 m² store. Because before you begin shopping here, you will need to soak up the gallery-like atmosphere. You have to take it all in. Understand a few things.

And that’s the concept.

“Endless amounts of mails, chats, tweets and posts, but hardly any actual conversations.” This is the statement that introduces the background information about the store on its own website. The aim is to counter today’s fleeting communication, in order to really start listening properly again. To the stories of the brands and of course to the customers. This is a noble aim, which is reminiscent of the retail ethos of days gone by, when the shops only employed qualified sales assistants

whose main job it was to serve the customers instead of filling the shelves with products. A space to pause for a moment?

To talk and listen? Of course this only works if you have something to tell. That’s why only brands with an honest story make it into the portfolio of The Listener.

The list currently includes 142, a majority of which are made up by jeans brands like Nudie, Levi´s, Edwin and Denham. But also denim rebels like Natural Selection from the UK have their feet in the door, along with staunch and steady, quality brands like Woolrich, G-Lab and Stone Island. But the brand list earns its points primarily for its foray into the fashion avant-garde with Comme des Garçons, A.P.C., Sonja Rykiel and Avelon. Due to the broadness of its range, which

includes everything from clothing to accessories, an extraordinarily to-the-point shoe selection and an exclusive cosmetics offer, The Listener is quickly becoming a one-stop shop on the discerning Frankfurt fashion scene.

Here they are finding the time for stimulating conversations in keeping with the Listener slogan: “Two ears, one mouth, multiple realities”.

But the mission of the store goes one step further: it’s clear that they are looking to offer a new take on consumerism by critically questioning what customers really need, which brands are worth buying and how important it is that a garment gains, rather than loses value after it has been purchased, such as the Levi’s from 1983, which have made it as an exhibition piece. On the first

Brands

The Listener Stephanstr. 3 60313 Frankfurt am Main +49 (0) 69 2100 8000

A Kind of Guise, Adriano Goldschmied, Aesop, A.P.C., Aqua di Stresa, Avelon, Barbour, Birkenstock, BLK DNM, Burlington, Buttero, Mackintosh, Moma, Nigel

www.thelistener.de

floor of the store there is also a denim repair workshop.

It’s really easy to see why The Listener has become an institution for cultured shopping in Frankfurt’s city centre so shortly after opening in 2013. And it’s not hard to answer the question of how the concept is so well rounded, as the two founders, Hakan Temür and Ardi Goldman are familiar figures on the fashion scene. Hakan Temür’s fashion distribution agency Brandpool, which represents labels like

Nudie Jeans and Denham and was launched 14 years ago, is meanwhile firmly established in the industry. Ardi Goldman has been responsible for turning many a trendsetting real estate concept into reality in Frankfurt, such as The Goldman 25Hours Hotel in Frankfurt’s Ostend. And of course he also found a unique piece of architecture for The Listener in Germany’s business capital. Goldman commissioned the extensive renovations of the MA* quarter in the former diamond exchange, which isn’t far

Cabourn, Nudie Jeans, Opening Ceremony, Our Legacy, Citizens of Humanity, Comme des Garçons, Denham, Dr. Martens, Edwin, Equipment, Filson,

from the main shopping street, the Zeil, and in the centre of the hip Neustadt district. He is now building up a progressive tenant structure of offices and retail concepts. So The Listener also serves as a best-practice example of Goldman’s vision for the MA complex. All the more praiseworthy is the fact that the duo has had the guts to leave room for unique and individual labels in their store. Despite all of this aesthetic perfection, however, The Listener is not too smooth and polished. It offers plenty of

Folk, Paul Smith Jeans, PB0110, Pendleton, Roberto Collina, Schott NYC, Sonia Rykiel, Surface to Air, TenC, The Last Conspiracy

points of friction in the form of an independent product mix, its openness to exchange, whether it be in the everyday running of the store, or in special events or through the high regard of its products and their stories.

Is the syntactic similarity of the store’s name to the classic film ‘The Wanderers’ deliberate? Who knows? After all, the story, which is set in 1963 in New York’s Bronx, is all about style and rock’n’roll, both of which The Listener has definitely mastered.

Find more Shops ON WWW.JNC-NET.DE

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Within a year The Listener has developed into a hotspot on Frankfurt’s fashion retail scene. And the denim and fashion store’s secret to success isn’t actually a secret, because its concept is revealed in the name.

Someone has obviously been listening very closely here.

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TRADESHOWS – Seek, Berlin Text Jemima Gnacke

Seek Berlin 19 – 21 January 2015 Arena Berlin Eichenstrasse 4 12435 Berlin www.seekexhibitions.com

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What is it that we are seeking exactly? In the case of contemporary fashion tradeshow Seek, it is like-minded people, space for ideas, innovation and a certain unconventionality.

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Seek brings together what belongs together, on a platform that offers brands plenty of scope for development. After past seasons at the Kühlhaus venue at Gleisdreieck, the event is now moving to a new location: Arena Berlin, a hall of bricks, steel and glass located directly on the River Spree. The listed building was built in the 1920s as a bus depot, and with its industrial charm it perfectly encapsulates the raw character

Seek and you shall find of the area between Kreuzberg and Treptow. Berlin institutions like the Club der Visionäre, White Trash Fast Food and MS Hoppetosse are in the direct vicinity. Seek will be moving into these new premises for the first time in January 2015.

The Future of urban Lifestyle The tradeshow will be taking place twice a year with 200 very carefully curated brands from the sectors Upper Streetwear, Elevated Sportswear, New Classics and Authentic Designer Collections. At the focus is mod-

ern menswear, complemented by selected womenswear, as well as accessories, lifestyle and tech gadgets. Since its launch in 2009 Seek has focused on themes like culture, independence and the future of the urban lifestyle, which is particularly reflected in the curated portfolio of traditional, established and new, visionary labels: Aigle, A Question Of, Alpha Industries, Christopher Ræburn, Dunderdon, Han Kjøbenhaven, Lyle & Scott, Whyred and YMC, to name just a few. They contribute to making Seek a true authority that goes beyond the mainstream. Lots of trends and previews into the fashion future can be seen here, including styles that are making

their way into the mainstream or still being worn by a cool, international audience.

In its status as fashion tradeshow, Seek is all about the product, concept and philosophy of the people behind the brand.

And the visitors sense this too – because the method of selection and presentation of the exhibitors is deliberate and selective. There’s a story to tell and there’s no hectic or pressure, but a personal, friendly, almost familial atmosphere. The words that best characterise Seek are “calmness and quality, that’s its ‘pace’,” says Maren Wiebus, Seek’s Sales Director.

“We incorporate a lot of input and suggestions from our exhibi-

TRADESHOWS – Seek, Berlin

Amsterdamdenimdays.com

Celebrate all things indigo April 13 – 18 Westergasfabriek & City Center

Amsterdam Denim Days will host a number of denim events.

We’ll be combining that with the raw wood of the boxes. There is a continuum from the Kühlhaus to the Arena: cosy and informal,” says Maren Wiebus.

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A Growing Spectrum of possibilities

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tors into our concept development. Word of mouth has made Seek what it is today. For that you need trust and a strong network.

We have never put the focus on the event, but always on the brands and products – that’s the DNA of Seek.”

The growing success is proving the organisers right and making itself particularly apparent with the increasing number and qual-

ity of the brands. Although it will be interesting to see whether the tradeshow manages to retain its charm now that it’s moving out of the cosy Kühlhaus: “It’s time for Seek to take the next step. The fair has achieved a popularity and relevance that enables us to move into our own location. The industrial, historical charm will remain the same thanks to the stone flooring and glass blocks.

So if you are looking to temporarily flee the stress of Fashion Week, you’re better off coming straight to Seek, which despite the January cold outside, is set to be warm and homely.

And to make sure no one has to cover the long distances on foot through wintry streets, there will be an Audi shuttle service between Premium and Seek, or, as a little extra, a tour to the most important shops in the city like Andreas Murkudis, Soto and the Voo Store, all shops that have a lot in common with the spirit of Seek because they reflect exactly the brand image

that can be found at the tradeshow. As retailers they come into contact with the customers on a daily basis and serve as a seismograph for the development of the brands. And because the spectrum of possibilities is growing with the new location, a Seek app is being provided by the organisers with information about all events and useful details – another service that the visitors will profit from.

One thing’s for sure: it won’t all be work, work, work at this winter edition of Seek because, in addition to the business aspects, the relaxed setting offers plenty of room for fun and a good atmosphere with top-class catering and a great musical backdrop to boot. And the Fashion Tech – Innovation Lab by Premium and Seek will be promoting the interdisciplinary exchange of knowledge, dedicated to the digital developments in the industry with presentations, lectures and workshops. Interesting insights and outlooks, from 2015 at the (bigger and better) Seek.

City Center

A special indigo program carried troughout downtown Amsterdam.

13 – 18 april

Kingpins Show

An invitation-only, boutique denim sourcing show.

15 – 16 april

Blueprint

Two-day denim festival with the best denim brands, expos, vintage treasure hunting, music, food & drinks.

17 – 18 april

Seminars

‘Towards a brighter blue’ with key speakers from the denim industry.

16 – 17 april

Tradeshows – Modefabriek & Amsterdam Denim Days

Text Jemima Gnacke

Modefabriek Amsterdam 25 – 26 January 2015 Amsterdam RAI Europaplein 8 1078 GZ Amsterdam www.modefabriek.nl

Amsterdam Denim Days 13 – 18 April 2015 www.amsterdamdenimdays.com

MarketPlace of Opportunities

C

M

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CM

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Every important European city can meanwhile boast its own fashion tradeshow. The German capital has what feels like a dozen. But the leading fair of the Benelux countries is Modefabriek in Amsterdam – where the Amsterdam Denim Days will be entering their second round in April.

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A powerhouse of opportunities, there’s no other way to describe Modefabriek. It is one of the first fashion tradeshows in Europe and started back in 1996. Having been friends for many years, the partners Lucel van den Hoeven, Rick van Rijthoven, Caroline Krouwels and Anne-Claire Petit were the original team who got the event off the ground, with a mere 27 exhibitors who looked rather lost in an industrial gasworks.

The will to experiment from that time has long since been harnessed and led in the right direction, but still promises plenty of variety: after constant growth, both in terms of its size and popularity, Modefabriek is held at the Amsterdam RAI, the biggest conference centre in the Netherlands, and since the early days it has developed into the leading tradeshow of the Benelux countries with meanwhile more than 19,000 visi-

tors, 600 represented brands and an area of 40,000 m². It is a logistical challenge to create tangible themed areas, but the team from Modefabriek strives towards change and reorganises the combination of participating brands year after year, in order to keep the event exciting and also to reflect economical and trend-relevant developments of the current market.

On 25 and 26 January 2015 the focus on the exhibition grounds will once again be on the values of innovation and creativity, which is reflected in the division into the following four segments: ‘The Floor’ for commercial, on-trend fashion, ‘The Frame’ for international market leaders and contemporary fashion, ‘The Square’ for high fashion and modern classics, and ‘The Pavilion’ for very stylish brands with a strong identity. The new platforms ‘Blueprint’ (denim), ‘Studio’ (new looks), ‘Mint’ (fair fashion), ‘Style Matters’ (premium menswear) and ‘Salon’ (sophisticated luxury) can be found in the corresponding areas. Just like last July, this January the tradeshow activities will also be accompanied by an extensive line-up, including symposia on relevant industry topics and a business platform for potential partnerships. And, as always, a

little distraction and relaxation from the exhausting tradeshow business is provided for: a selection of the country’s important department stores will have their own stalls in pop-up format on the tradeshow grounds. The specially designed food market will be offering a wide spectrum of culinary delights – all accompanied by live performances by various musicians

Blue Gold of Amsterdam And from 13 – 18 April 2015 Modefabriek is offering the urban jeans market its very own event in the form of Amsterdam Denim Days. Amsterdam has the world’s highest density of denim brands, so it’s only logical that they will be dedicating a series of different events to the spectrum of themes related to ‘blue gold’, with a focus on premium craftsmanship and innovation.

Together with the partners HTNK Fashion Recruitment & Consultancy and House of Denim, the premises of the Westergasfabriek, amongst others, will be transformed into an indigo arena showcasing the denim scene’s latest trends.

The event is divided into three individual ones: starting with denim trade fair the Kingpins Show (15 – 16 April) which is for professional trade visitors only, and followed by Blueprint (17 – 18 April) with workshops and a vintage market also aimed at the end consumer. As part of the ‘City Center’ line-up the love of denim will also be carried into Amsterdam’s city centre from 13 – 18 April, where there will also be a series of events, including a cooperation with the most important denim stores in the city such as Scotch & Soda, Replay and SPRMRKT. In summer 2014 a total of 36 brands took part in Blueprint and the Kingpins Show, such as Denham, Kings of Indigo, Nudie Jeans and G-Star Raw and not forgetting a number of interesting, smaller labels. With 4500 visitors the events are far from being mass attractions, but at Amsterdam Denim Days it’s primarily about “uniting everyone from the producers to the consumers and breaking down barriers,” explains Kingpins founder Andrew Olah.

And this passion for all things indigo and the corresponding lifestyle will continue to be the common denominator in April 2015.

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Shirt K.O.I Denim jacket Closed Jeans Bogner

Denim shirt American Apparel Denim jacket Dawn Cardigan Liebeskind

Denim shirt Closed

Pullover Eleven Paris

Pullover Diesel Denim jacket Tommy Hilfiger Jeans Mavi

Denim shirt Mustang Jeans Replay

Denim shirt Closed Denim gilet Tommy Hilfiger Jeans Denham

Denim shirt Wrangler Denim jacket 7 For All Mankind

Pullover Eleven Paris Jeans Timberland

Pullover Gina Tricot Denim shirt Tommy Hilfiger Denim jacket Diesel Jeans 7 For All Mankind

Turtleneck sweater Gina Tricot Denim shirt Cheap Monday Coat ASOS Trousers Mac Socks Falke Boots Closed

Shirt Diesel Denim jacket Wrangler Trousers Cheap Monday Boots G-Star Raw

Turtleneck sweater Kilian Kerner

Denim shirt Weekday Jeans Cheap Monday Belt K.O.I

Denim jacket Drykorn

Photography Muriel Liebmann Styling Hannah Godde Hair & make-up Linda Sigg / Nina Klein Models Lynn Amelie / PMA, Jakob Christian / m4

Sweat jacket Sleevles parka Jeans Sneakers See more Fashion ON WWW.JNC-NET.DE

Maeckes

Adna Dress Paul Smith Coat MIchael Sontag

Outfit Versus Versace

Mulatu Astatke Shirt Weekday Trousers Hien Le Braces The Kooples Hat Cheap Monday Bowtie Herr von Eden Scarf Scotch & Soda

Erlend øye Shirt Joseph Jacket Alexander McQueen Trousers Jil Sander

Sweat jacket Sleevles parka Jeans Sneakers

Maeckes Outfit Versus Versace Hat The Kooples

Adna Outfit Henrik Vibskov

Photography Christoph Voy Sweat jacket Sleevles parka StylingSneakers Alexandra Heckel Jeans

Assistant Beatrice Gehrmann Models & New Fall Festival performers Mulatu Astatke Erlend Øye Maeckes Adna

Special thanks to New Fall Festival www.new-fall-festival.de Next edition: 29.10.-01.11.2015 Düsseldorf

Maeckes

Erlend øye

Turtleneck Jil Sander Trousers, waistcoat & cap Herr von Eden Shoes Dr. Martens

Sweatshirt Orlebar Brown Trousers Sissi Goetze Boots Filippa K Hat By Malene Birger

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Long dress Riani Short dress COS Skirt Tiger of Sweden Shirt tied around waist Franklin & Marshall Coat Bershka Earrings Forever 21 Watch Sheen by Casio Scarf/turban Vonschwanenflügelpupke

Top Isabell de Hillerin Shirt tied around waist & skirt Reserved Dress Fred Perry Denim jacket Citizens of Humanity Coat Weekday Collection Jeans Replay Shoes Geox

Socks Burlington Bag Bogner Sunglasses Escada Earring & ring Bjørg Bracelets Vibe Harsløf Watch Komono

Sweat jacket Sleevles parka Jeans Sneakers

Top Franziska Michael Blouse Liu Jo Pullover tied around waist Reserved Leather jacket Meindl Jeans Closed Trousers Joseph Belt Vonschwanenflügelpupke Shoes United Nude

Leather top Augustin Teboul Blouse Caruso Jacket Edited Short denim shirt Denham Long denim shirt Levi’s Skirt & shoes Topshop Jeans Citizens of Humanity Socks Falke Bag Karl Lagerfeld Watch Nixon Bumbag Eastpak Rings Pernille Corydon Turban Jeonga Choi

Bag Coccinelle Ring Vibe Harsløf Sunglasses Rebecca Minkoff Necklace Stylist’s own Earrings Versus Versace Hat Franklin & Marshall

Sweat jacket Sleevles parka Jeans Sneakers

Denim top American Apparel Top Karen Millen Pullover Uniqlo Jacket G-Star Skirt Drykorn Shorts Martin Niklas Wieser Hat Tiger of Sweden Scarf Stylejunky Bracelets Sal Y Limon Headphones Urbanears

Jeans shirt tied around waist Tommy Hilfiger Long-sleeved top Rich & Royal T-shirt Edited Denim vest Calvin Klein Jeans Leather jacket Ganni Skirt Weekday Denim hotpants American Apparel Shoes Superga Ă— Versus Versace

Socks Falke Backpack Versus Versace Bracelet Lola and Grace Watch Komono Ring Vibe Harsløf Sunglasses Dita

Sweat jacket Sleevles parka Jeans Sneakers

Corsage top Bobby Kolade Long-sleeved top Weekday Collection Shirt Markus Lupfer Shirt tied around waist Karen Millen Jacket Michalsky Trousers iHeart Jeans Franziska Michael

Photography Marc Huth Photo assistant Jens Sage Styling Anita Krizanovic Hair & make-up Mischka Hart / Basics Model Lucy / Core-Management

Belt Tosca Blu Shoes United Nude Socks Falke Bag Piquadro Sunglasses Mykita Jewellery Lola and Grace

T-shirt Levi’s Leather jacket Liebeskind Skirt Hien Le Overall & rings By Malene Birger Trousers Sand Belt Noosa

Shoes Dr. Martens Socks Falke Earrings Bottega Veneta Vintage Bag Closed Visor Jeonga Choi

Where to find Us

Where To Find Us Selected stores Germany

Do You Read Me? Auguststr. 28 D-10117 Berlin Heil Quelle Pannierstr. 40 D-12047 Berlin K Presse+Buch Fernbahnhof Zoo D-10623 Berlin K Presse+Buch Am Ostbahnhof D-10243 Berlin K Presse+Buch Bahnhof Spandau D-13597 Berlin K Presse+Buch Airport Schönefeld D-12521 Berlin K Presse+Buch Airport Tegel D-13405 Berlin HDS Retail Boxberger Str. 3-9 D-12681 Berlin HDS Retail Airport Tegel D-13405 Berlin

59 — 01/2015

K Presse+Buch Bonn Hauptbahnhof D-53111 Bonn

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K Presse+Buch Bremerhaven Hauptbahnhof D-27570 Bremerhaven K Presse+Buch Bremen Hauptbahnhof D-28195 Bremen

TERMINE 2015 INternational

K Presse+Buch Dortmund Hauptbahnhof D-44137 Dortmund K Presse+Buch Dresden Hauptbahnhof D-01069 Dresden Relay – HDS Airport Düsseldorf D-40474 Düsseldorf Grauert GmbH Düsseldorf Hauptbahnhof D-40210 Düsseldorf HDS Retail Airport Frankfurt D-60547 Frankfurt Schmitt & Hahn Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof D-60051 Frankfurt Schmitt & Hahn Gießen Hauptbahnhof D-35390 Gießen K Presse+Buch Fernbahnhof Altona D-22765 Hamburg K Presse+Buch Hamburg Hauptbahnhof D-20099 Hamburg K Presse+Buch HH-Dammtor D-20354 Hamburg K Presse+Buch Hamburg Airport D-22335 Hamburg HDS Retail Airport Hannover D-30669 Hannover

HDS Retail Hannover Hauptbahnhof D-30159 Hannover Bahnhofsbuchhandlung Heidelberg Hauptbahnhof D-69039 Heidelberg Falter Bücher & Presse Hindenburgstr. 190 D-41061 Mönchengladbach Soda. Internationale Magazine & Bücher Rumfordstr. 3 D-80469 Munich K Presse+Buch Bahnhof München-Ost D-81667 Munich K Presse+Buch Munich Hauptbahnhof D-80335 Munich K Presse+Buch München-Pasing Bahnhof D-81241 Munich Schmitt & Hahn Bahnhofsplatz 9 D-90004 Nuremberg Schmitt & Hahn Airport Nuremberg D-90411 Nuremberg Grauert KG Oberhausen Hauptbahnhof D-46045 Oberhausen

Colette 213 Rue Saint-Honoré 75001 Paris France

27.02. – 01.03.

MAGMA 117-119 Clerkenwell Road London EC1R 5BY GB Do Design Calle Fernando VI, 13 28004 Madrid Spain Papercut Krukmakargatan 24-26 11851 Stockholm Sweden

12.09. – 14.09.

Drawn & Quarterly 211 Bernard Ouest Montreal, Quebec H2T 2K5 Canada Around The World 148 West 37th St. New York City, NY 10018 USA Athenaeum Nieuwscentrum Spui 14-16 1012 XA Amsterdam Alchemy Works 826 East 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90013 USA

K Presse+Buch Stuttgart Hauptbahnhof D-70173 Stuttgart Wittwer Airport Stuttgart D-70629 Stuttgart

Messe Offenbach GmbH Kaiserstr. 108 -112 · D - 63065 Offenbach am Main Fon + 49 69 - 82 97 55 - 0 · Fax + 49 69 - 82 97 55 - 60 www.messe-offenbach.de · info@messe-offenbach.de

ten questions for — Jason GallEn, Victorinox

ten questions for:

Jason Gallen Victorinox

President of Fashion Division

59 — 01/2015

1 What are you wearing today?

Today I am wearing a very classic look from Victorinox: the Esher dark denim jeans, a classic white woven shirt and my favourite hybrid wool and nylon sweater from the FW14 collection.

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2 What is your favourite piece in the Victorinox collection?

From FW14 I would have to say it’s our Torre jacket, a bonded wool water-repellent Thermore insulated parka. From the upcoming FW15 collection it’s hard to choose just one as there are so many strong pieces – I’m very much looking forward to the final collection being delivered so I can order it for myself. Since I can’t choose one I will give you my top three: - the Charmotane Raincoat - a two-ply raincoat in OD Green with contrasting lining, - the Kettenhemd Sweater, a classic cowl neck sweater in soft merino wool in a beautiful port wine colour, - and from a design perspective, the custom quilt pattern design for our utility vests and shirts, which was inspired by original Swiss military quilting but has a modern and unique twist.

3 At what age did you know that you wanted to work in the fashion business?

I have always been attracted to how people dress and their style.

My family has been in the garment industry for four generations, so I guess you can say it has always been in my blood.

4 What made you want to start working for Victorinox?

The brand. I have such an appreciation for the heritage and values so I wanted to help translate that into our retail stores for the consumer and through the clothing we produce.

5 What fascinates you about outerwear?

The complexity of designing and producing it. Knowing how much architecture, engineering and detailing has to go into the product in order to construct beautiful, high-quality outerwear is fascinating. The end consumer only sees the final product and appreciates the quality, but we know each step that goes into the craftsmanship.

6 Was there any point in your life, when you wanted to switch to another industry?

I actually started my career on the retail side of the business with a natural tendency towards merchandising. I was always intrigued to understand how the consumer thinks. This approach has allowed me to find success with developing products and services for brands that I believe in.

7 What do you see as the biggest challenge for the fashion business in the future?

The consumer has so many choices, staying relevant and meaningful and providing value to their lifestyle. The consumer is changing so fast and we need to be more agile to deliver what they want from us, when they want it.

8 Who do you admire in the fashion business?

Mickey Drexler. He has been masterful as a merchant and consumer advocate and has created brands and re-established brands with such meaning.

9 What are your thoughts on ­Switzerland?

Switzerland is such a beautiful country, I love the tension that exists there between the traditional and modern architecture.

And I have such an appreciation for the culture, high quality, precision and down to earth nature of both the people and the country as a whole.

10 What is your favourite place in the world?

At home with my family.