J'N'C Magazine 2/2019

JEANSWEAR & CONTEMPORARY FASHION

N° 76 / 2–2019

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EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS

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Pierre D’Aveta There aren’t very many days when you won’t find me wearing a pair of jeans – hardly any, in fact. For me, well-fitting jeans are the perfect everyday uniform (sometimes also taking me well beyond daytime wear). And even if I easily exceed the German average of eight to ten pairs, I know I’m not the exception, but the rule. In recent seasons, runways from New York and London to Milan and Paris have been showing versatile head-to-toe denim looks, proving that men’s and womenswear designers have long since accepted this iconic workwear fabric into the club of the fashion elite. And it has even made it into the world of couture. So we could even say that denim has reached the peak of its existence – or has it?

You can read all about the “cannibalism of the denim industry”, an unavoidable shift and the discerning demands of Generations X and Z in our main feature entitled ‘Refocus – The State of Denim’ on page 48, for which author Björn Lüdtke asked international experts about the status quo of this ‘blue gold’.

We also travelled to the north and south of Europe for this issue.

KnowledgeCotton Apparel, Dr. Denim and Nudie Jeans always make a trip to Scandinavia worth our while: we caught up with the founders to find out about their perception of jeans and how they expect the future of the industry to pan out. In our cover editorial ‘Sashimi Denim’ on page 52, we’re also showing just how versatile menswear denim can be, while our second editorial shoot ‘Centraal City’ brilliantly demonstrates on page 88 how jeans don’t always have to play the leading role.

Moving on in a southerly direction, to Portugal to be precise, we took a glimpse behind the state-of-the-art scenes of vertical manufacturer Polopique. In an interview, founder Luís Guimarães revealed the advantages of producing in Europe and how, despite the challenges, sustainability can be integrated into a company’s structure.

So we hope that you not only learn something new from this issue, but can also draw some inspiration from the many movers, shakers, creators and forward-thinkers we spoke to.

Enjoy reading!

Cheryll Mühlen & team

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ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Anyone who knows J’N’C magazine will know Pierre. For about seven years, our hard-working associate publisher has roamed the globe to meet the movers and shakers of our industry. For this issue, Pierre took on an editor role for a change, to interview some exciting fashion insiders on behalf of our editor-in-chief.

Per Florian Appelgren PHOTOGRAPHER “I’ve always felt the need to photograph everything and everyone. Taking photos of people is a real addiction, a moment of pure joy and also what motivates me,” says Per euphorically, showing us once again just how much he loves his job.

Which of course made it twice as much fun for us to do the cover story with him in Düsseldorf’s Japanese quarter.

Markus Bronold PHOTOGRAPHER Following the philosophy “It’s not about the picture, it’s about the meaning,” photographer Markus Bronold is on a permanent quest to find the soul in his subjects, whether they are humans, animals, nature or architecture. For J’N’C he headed to Portugal, Denmark and Sweden to seek out the perfect picture.

CONTENTS 16

52

BITS & PIECES

20 BRANDS

Luke1977, Tom Woods, Copenhagen 26 MOST WANTED

Palladium, Snow Peak, Inuikii, Schuh Bertl, Shu, Wayks, Lacoste, George, Gina & Lucy 36 INTERVIEW Rains 38 NEWCOMERS

Dear Vanessa, Passepartout, Art of Scribble

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42 BEHIND THE SCENES

POLOPIQUE

48 COVER FEATURE

‘REFOCUS’ — THE STATE OF DENIM

52 COVER SHOOT

SASHIMI DENIM

62 INTERVIEWS

KnowledgeCotton Apparel, Nudie, Dr. Denim, Isko, True Religion, Dockers Challengers, Afew

TRADESHOW PREVIEW

78 COVER PHOTOGRAPHY: PER FLORIAN APPELGREN COVER OUTFIT: ISKO, KINGS OF INDIGO, NEW ERA

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FASHION SHOOT

CENTRAAL CITY 98 INSIDER OPINION Asad Soorty, Executive Director of Soorty

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PUBLISHER EPP Professional Publishing Group GmbH

PUBLISHING MANAGEMENT Nikola Köster, Kathrin Wimber

Liesegangstraße 17 40215 Düsseldorf Germany

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Pierre D’Aveta

Tel. +49 (0)211 830 30 Fax +49 (0)211 830 32 00

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info@jnc-net.de www.jnc-net.de

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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Cheryll Mühlen c.muehlen@jnc-net.de ART DIRECTION vista www.studiovista.de

EDITORS Cynthia Blasberg, Renée Diehl, Vanessa Pecherski, Aylin Yavuz

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Pierre D’Aveta Tel. +49 (0)211 830 31 51 p.daveta@jnc-net.de

COPY EDITORS Paula Hedley

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PHOTOGRAPHY Per Florian Appelgren, Markus Bronold, Valentin Mühl, Anna Vatheuer TRANSLATION Galina Green, Paula Hedley Trend Translations

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The magazine and all of its contents and images are protected by copyright. The place of business is Düsseldorf and the place of jurisdiction is Munich in all cases.

BITS & PIECES

CREATIVE PLAYGROUND FRISUR It all started with a T-shirt. But independent Berlin label Frisur has since developed into a sustainable ladies’ and menswear label that offers full-range collections and represents a modern, nonchalant style. It was established by the two friends Thies Meyer and Stephan SunderPlassmann. These days they follow non-seasonal trends with their collections and cooperate exclusively with manufacturers based in the EU that stick to both fair working conditions and environmental principles. A prime example of how even small brands can make a big impact.

FRISURCLOTHING.COM

BUILDING BLOCKS GOLDSIGN The AW19 collection by this Californian premium denim brand is a fusion of modernity and functionality. This season, designer Karen Phelps was inspired by the colours of British artist David Hockney and the shapes of sculptor Barbara Hepworth. And references to 80s icons can also be found in the collection.

But the brand’s style DNA, a clean minimalistic look, still shines through.

The modular system is also being continued this coming season, meaning that a look can be built up around a single garment – with an emphasis on ensembles. The collection includes individual items that can be teamed together to make a suit, such as a jacket with the matching skirt or jeans.

GOLDSIGNDENIM.COM

KAPORAL 100% recycled denim, 100% made in France. Together with Florentin Glémarec, the young menswear designer and founder of Icosae, denim brand Kaporal is breathing new life into old jeans: over 100 pairs have been bought back from customers and reused in the nine-piece collaboration, made up of various wardrobe staples. For his creations, Glémarec drew inspiration from the city and sport trends, which is reflected in the cool, comfortable and graphic oversized styles. The icing on the cake: each pair is made at a workshop in Marseille that is specialised in the production of textiles.

THE ULTIMATE SNEAKER BOOK What started out in 2002 as a kind of fanzine has meanwhile become one of the most influential sneaker culture magazines in the world. And its founder Simon ‘Woody’ Wood has now brought out his sneaker bible ‘Sneaker Freaker. The Ultimate Sneaker Book’ with the Taschen publishing house. As the name suggests, it’s the ultimate reference guide for sneakerheads and footwear aficionados alike. On over 650 pages, the book – in the typical sneaker lingo – features the most influential, best-known and offthe-wall models in sneaker history. An absolute must-have for all you sneaker freaks out there!

KAPORAL.COM

TASCHEN.COM

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KEEPING IT 100

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THE SNEAKER BIBLE

THE NEXT INSTALMENT GRIFFIN X WOOLRICH This is now the third instalment of the collaboration between Griffin Studio and Woolrich. And it certainly doesn’t disappoint. For the limited edition AW19 collection, high-quality Italian fabrics that have been discarded for various reasons such as overordering or outdated colourways, have been given a new lease of life. The Woolrich-branded Eco Ramar fabric was printed instead of dyed to reduce water usage, while a 100% recycled, exclusive ripstop polyester was used for the eco fabrics with over 40% harvested from the ocean by 1,500 Spanish fishermen for Seaqual.

In a nutshell: transparency, innovation and ecological awareness were the three core values behind this sought-after 100% ‘made in Italy’ capsule collection.

WOOLRICH.COM

ETHICS & FASHION PINKO X STELLA JEAN Womenswear label Pinko is putting even more focus on sustainability and the ecological and social impact of the fashion industry.

Together with Treedom, the website that allows you to plant a tree with just one click, Pinko has now designed a sustainable capsule collection of five T-shirts with ethical label Stella Jean.

The tees are made of organic cotton and printed with watercolours. Their illustrations, embroideries and motifs are a striking homage to the Masai culture in Kenya, while the colours are all inspired by the Pinko forest. A joint effort that proves that we can achieve a whole lot more together.

PINKO.COM

MODERN MOUNTAINEERING RVLT The brand’s AW19 collection is inspired by functional pieces from classic mountain and outdoorwear – the roots of RVLT’s early years. This means that the collection is functional and the outerwear line durable. The shirts come in brushed flannel fabrics that feel natural on the skin, while many of the sweats and T-shirts are organic with surprising details that are sure to put a smile on your face. And because they can, the knitwear line is also organic. Everything is suitable for daily wear, whatever your purpose, whatever the weather.

RVLT.COM

PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND The term ‘back to basics’ usually suggests a return to simplicity. But in the case of Pringle of Scotland, it refers to the fact that the Scottish label is once again playing to its core strength: knitwear. For AW19, the womenswear collection is showing us what two hundred years of knitwear expertise look like.

Bold graphics, Scottish tartan and loud colour combinations have been taken directly from the sportswear archive and are a stylish nod to ski elements from the 1960s and golf inspiration from the 80s. A fitting tribute to the brand’s own history.

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PRINGLESCOTLAND.COM

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BITS & PIECES

WASTE NOT, WANT NOT SELFNATION The brand for tailormade trousers is sending out a clear message in terms of sustainability: 40% less water, 85% less waste, 70% fewer chemicals, 100% recycling of anything that can be recycled. Their new ‘Zero Waste Selvedge Jeans’ are more sustainable than anything we have seen before, which is down to the gentle dyeing method by sustainable denim manufacturer Candiani and of course the on-demand production. To ensure the highest possible quality, the fabric, consisting mainly of Lyocell Tencel and recycled cotton, is manufactured on traditional weaving looms using a special weaving procedure.

ALL ABOARD! SCOTCH & SODA The label’s 16th ‘Amsterdam Blauw’ collection, ‘The Boathouse’, was inspired by the camaraderie at sea and is re­ interpreting the colours and shapes of the nautical look for men and women. Their own version of ‘crew wear’ is all about lightness, functionality and the classic red and blue colour combo. Wide shoulders, narrow legs and layering give the collection the typical sailor look. And as every authentic crew needs a mascot, adorning the Scotch & Soda uniform is none other than Brutus, Popeye’s arch enemy. The muscleman adds a fun touch to all the collection’s items, from the jeans to the varsity jacket.

SELFNATION.CH

NEW VALUES, OLD STRENGTH PADDOCKS Paddocks is sticking to this slogan for its new AW19 collection, which includes a new fit and its own ‘1974’ denim line. The latest addition, the ‘Duke’, is a tight leg, low-rise men’s jean available in four washes. With its elaborate workmanship, robust stretch and useful features like the mobile pocket, it certainly combines the brand’s new values with the strength it has come to be renowned for.

PADDOCKS.DE

SCOTCH-SODA.COM

UNCONVENTIONAL MOVES AXEL ARIGATO The ‘House of Luxury’ Braun Hamburg is welcoming a new addition to its sneaker portfolio: young Scandi label Axel Arigato is now part of the family. Recently established in 2014 by Albin Johansson and Max Svärdh, the sneaker brand with the minimalistic silhouettes and attention to detail quickly made a name for itself. And one of the reasons for that is its unconventional marketing: instead of presenting collections early, the duo has opted to take the ‘see now, buy now’ approach, presenting a new shoe on social media every week, which customers can purchase right away. Their products are meanwhile available all over the world – including, of course, at Braun Hamburg.

BRAUN-HAMBURG.COM AXELARIGATO.COM

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BRANDS N° 76

MODERN TERRACEWEAR LUKE1977 The autumn/winter 2019 collection by British menswear brand Luke1977 can be divided into two sub-categories: ‘Luke, the Technical Tailor’ and ‘Luke Sport’. The latter is particularly important this season because its Creative Director, Luke Roper, sees this as an integral part of British brand heritage: “The most important element of British menswear is terracewear (laid-back fashion inspired by the looks worn on football stadium terraces) which also makes up a large part of our brand DNA. For the 2019 autumn/winter season, I have continued this legacy with technical jackets, two-piece tracksuits and high zip-up necklines, adding modern details and new designs.” Vintage-inspired side stripes on sleeves and trouser legs as well as a palette of rosé, cream, green and amethyst are also predominant here. For the ‘Luke, the Technical Tailor’ collection, on the other hand, the focus is on neon highlights on workwear-style coats and jackets, as well as the colours olive, wine-red and green. /rd LUKE1977.COM

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P R E M I U M INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PLATFORM FOR ADVANCED CONTEMPORARY FASHION

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BRANDS N° 76

FROM JEWELLERY TO DENIM TOM WOOD Originally starting out as a jewellery brand in 2013, Norwegian brand Tom Wood launched its denim line for men and women in 2017. The upcoming collection for autumn/winter 2019 not only consists of classic denims and a smaller, more trend-based capsule collection made of deconstructed denim, but also includes a collaboration. The ‘Røros Wool Project’, created with Norwegian brand Røros Tweed, which specialises in textiles made from first-class local wool and local production, is characterised by large, graphic patterns. Tom Wood’s complete autumn/winter collection draws its inspiration from Norwegian heritage and culture, ranging from the traditions of wool making and craftsmanship down to the colour palette reminiscent of the country’s coastal architecture and nature. /rd TOMWOODPROJECT.COM

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I N T E R NAT IONA L DE N I M T R A DE FA I R

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BRANDS N° 76

ON-TREND MINIMALISM COPENHAGEN FOOTWEAR The new baby of Liebeskind founders Johannes and Julian Rellecke was only established in 2017 but is already available from over 200 selected retailers. The concept is clear: to bring Copenhagen’s lifestyle to the streets in the form of high-quality, fairly produced shoes, made in Italy. The product portfolio includes hiking models, sneakers, boots and flats, all inspired by the modern and minimalist Scandi style. Some new shoe models will be introduced for the autumn/winter 2019 collection but updated versions of the designs from the current spring/summer collection will also make it back into the range. For example, the ‘CPH40’, a dad sneaker that proved so popular in the summer, it will now be available in winter colours with a black sole instead of a white one. And the hiking trend will also be referenced in the upcoming collection: the ‘CPH95’ with a material mix of mesh and different leather types is perfect for all urban hikers. There is also the ‘CPH92’ with higher platform soles and the wanderlust-inspired ‘CPH99’, which is wowing us with its contrasting colours and shapes. In terms of colour options, the entire AW19 product portfolio will be dominated by dark berry, navy and green hues accompanied by black, white and neutrals. /rd COPENHAGENFOOTWEAR.COM

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3 - 5 SEPTEMBER 2019

I N T E R N AT I O N A L FA B R I C T R A D E FA I R M U N I C H FA B R I C S TA R T. C O M | # M U N I C H FA B R I C S TA R T

PHOTOGRAPHY VALENTIN MÜHL PRODUCTION CHERYLL MÜHLEN

MOST WANTED

PERFECT SYMBIOSIS

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PALLADIUM ‘Pallakix’ is the new kid on the Palladium block for autumn/winter 2019 and combines the best of boots and sneakers.

Developed in typical Palladium style, the Pallakix is narrower and sportier, yet still retains the popular look the brand is renowned for. Paired with athleisure-influenced outfits, it is revealing itself to be the shooting star in a world of chunky sneakers. All you have to do is choose between high or low-top and the brilliant colourways – from all-white to all-black to pink-yellow-black-red and blue-red-grey down to our Most Wanted favourite in blue-turquoise-black-grey.

Even in times of uniform looks, they’re guaranteed to add a flash of individuality!

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PALLADIUMBOOTS.DE

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INDIGO BEAUTY

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SNOW PEAK Japanese outdoor brand Snow Peak represents functionality, comfort and durability, three elements it combines in its high-quality fashion pieces.

The best example is this seemingly modest parka. Its rich indigo-blue shimmers when the light falls on it, and those in the know will be fully aware that it’s not easy to indigo-dye such a tightly woven nylon mixed fabric, so it’s really quite unique.

The material blend is 66% cotton and 34% nylon and feels light and pleasant when worn. Thanks to its lightweight appearance, the parka can afford to mix things up with its voluminous 3D pockets, which are on the side so they don’t ruin the appearance of the stylish silhouette.

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SNOWPEAK.COM

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MOST WANTED

INUIKII Dark wintery days may be getting rarer by the year but that doesn’t mean we have to forgo exciting winter styles. Swiss footwear label Inuikii offers just the right balance between functional boot and urban sneaker. Just like the men’s ‘Ovata Military Olive’ boot from their AW19 collection.

Despite its functionality, the soft fur lining not only keeps you warm, but also dry thanks to the waterproof uppers, making the boot ideal for rainy autumn and winter days. The combination of olivecoloured leather offset by the contrasting colour of the quilted inset and the orange lacing makes these boots an absolute key piece in any shoe cupboard.

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INUIKII.COM

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MOST WANTED

MADE FOR WALKING

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SCHUH BERTL “As there were hardly any welted ladies’ boots out there, I had the idea of developing styles that weren’t just a smaller version of a man’s model, but also look feminine,” explains Bertl Kreca, better known as ‘Schuh Bertl’.

Which means that you can have a 3.5 cm heel without having to walk on your tiptoes, while the asymmetrical lasts guarantee that the shoe follows the natural shape of your foot and won’t pinch in all the wrong places. In addition to their sheer comfort, the boots, which are also available in black, are made of the finest calf leather and come with a sewn-welted leather sole.

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SHU This jacket may come across as quite unassuming, but it will win you over the moment you put it on.

Padded with lightweight plant-based down by DuPont Sorona and a waterproof, windproof and breathable membrane fabric, it will keep you cosy and warm during the long, cold days of winter. And if anyone knows how to deal with winter, then it’s the Russians, right? Founded in St Peters­ burg in 2012 by Andrey Kravtsov, all the label’s products are vegan – something that they are understandably proud of. The fact that the design is also minimalist and functional is really striking a chord with its fans. When the days start to get a little warmer, you can detach the hood, turning it into a cool streetwear-style bomber jacket in a flash.

FROM RUSSIA WITH LOVE

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SHUCLOTHES.RU

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MOST WANTED

WAYKS Established in 2017 between Sydney and Berlin by siblings Leonie and Fabian Stein, Wayks offers well-thought-out equipment that’s ideal for everyday urban lifestyles as well as adventures on the road. They started out with the ‘Wayks One’ rucksack, which consists of two parts: the Day Pack and the Cube, a detachable bottom part that works as a separate camera bag, cool pack or cosmetics stash, meaning you can transform the daypack into a larger or smaller travel rucksack in a jiffy. Thanks to its completely detachable back and shoulder padding, it can also be transformed into a more lightweight version of itself. As if that weren’t enough, the ‘Wayks One’ rucksack can be packed like a suitcase so you will never have to rummage around up to your elbows again. And another reason it’s earned its place in our Most Wanted list is the fact that it’s made from recycled PET bottles at a production site approved by both the Fair Wear Foundation and Bluesign.

WAYKS.COM

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SUSTAINABLE MULTI-TALENT

MOST WANTED

GAME, SET, MATCH

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LACOSTE.COM

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LACOSTE Surprisingly often it’s the reduced looks that we are most attracted to. Perhaps because they are free from any distractions. A bit like the new sneaker model by Lacoste.

It’s pretty obvious that the ‘Court Slam 319’ has its origins in the game of tennis, but its chunky unisex silhouette is reminiscent of 1990s models, the Lacoste ‘Tennis 91’ to be precise. With its Lacoste lettering and embossed crocodile in the same colour, the Court Slam is the perfect option if you’re looking for something more reduced but still eye-catching.

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MOST WANTED

GEORGE, GINA & LUCY Be honest: would you have guessed that George, Gina & Lucy were the brand behind these bags? Fans from back in the day will have recognised them by their characteristic carabiner clasp, but the German bag label, with Nicolas Neuhaus at the helm, has not only reinvented but also rediscovered itself since then. And it could well be the most exciting brand comeback of the year: modern styles like cross-body bags, bum bags and harnesses, alongside practical totes and shoppers, eye-popping colours with a smart use of logos and an inspiring contemporary design will from now on be defining the DNA of the bags and catapulting them firmly into our Most Wanted league.

GEORGE-GINA-LUCY.COM

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BACK WITH A BANG

INTERVIEW – RAINS

OH PLEASE, LET IT RAIN TODAY! Supply and demand have always dictated the market economy, but sometimes it seems as if the supply doesn’t meet a certain demand. That’s exactly what Philipp Lotko must have thought when, together with Daniel Brix, he established the label Rains in 2012. With their version of the classic rain jacket, it has gone on to become an internationally successful outerwear company.

Philipp Lotko, co-founder of Rains

INTERVIEW CHERYLL MÜHLEN

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What sets Rains apart?

We provide a mix of revitalised designs from rainwear archives and original rainwear solutions that challenge the perception of rainwear. Our product DNA is classic but innovative and we’re always searching for new ways to develop the brand – that’s our constant motivation.

But we are also inspired by Scandinavian weather and Nordic aesthetics. We like to challenge people’s general perception of rainwear – always pushing it in new directions. That what’s make Rains unique in all aspects.

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How do you combine this mindset with the collections?

Each Rains collection is made with the intention of both honouring and challenging the traditional perceptions of rainwear and proving that rainy weather is always an opportunity to display your personal style. Our goal is to create minimalistic and long-lasting silhouettes and push the boundaries of what we can do with our signature PU fabric. For our previous AW18 collection we translated it into matte, glossy and transparent PU. One of the new additions to our universe is the Thermal Line – waterproof outerwear designed for cold, wet weather.

The entirety of the collection utilises featherless 3M Thinsulate insulation, allowing the Thermal collection to provide extreme warmth in extreme con­ ditions, as well as remaining highly compressible for tight packing. The fill is as lightweight as natural down, highly breathable and hypoallergenic.

Your products not only have a high fashion appeal and reliable functionality, but also very appealing prices. How can you offer such an affordable price range?

We have a wide spectrum of people who buy into our brand. The diversity of our collections is definitely one of our strengths – men and woman aged between 16 and 70 purchase our products.

Some of them basically just need a cool raincoat, while others are more trend and brand-driven. We aim to have something for everybody since we’re a brand for the people, and we want to make sure that our products are affordable.

Our product designs are minimalistic but still functional, which is one of the reasons behind our pricing structure.

Looking back, what was the most significant moment for your company?

There have been many since we estab-

lished the company in 2012, but a true highlight in our story has been entering the retail sector. This adds a new and really interesting dimension to the business.

Since you’ve already cooperated with different brands and companies, just how important are such collaborations nowadays and why do you do them?

A big part of our previous marketing strategy was based on collaborations.

It helped us enter the market and positioned us as being ‘more than a rain jacket’ – now, our focus is on our own collections, including new line extensions.

Speaking of the markets: what are your main priorities and which markets would you love to expand to?

We are represented in more than 30 markets. However, the aim isn’t to be represented in as many markets as possible, but to be successful in the markets we’re in. That’s what we are working towards every day.

So the key to success is …

Work hard, be humble and stick to the plan.

RAINS.COM

NEWCOMERS

ONE-MAN SHOW

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TEXT RENÉE DIEHL

Poyan Rahimzadeh, the founder of newly launched menswear brand Dear Vanessa, likes to do everything himself. That means a lot of work for him and explains why he even shot the lookbook on his own. And everything is incredibly planned to perfection: even the brand name is part of his storytelling. As Rahimzadeh explains: “Vanessa is the girl you couldn’t have, but you never got over.” His collections are always named after a character and his romance with Vanessa. His first collection, which will be launched for the autumn/winter 2019 season, is called ‘The Bar Mitzvah of Mortdecai’: each season will focus on a different character, which inspires all the pieces. In the case of Mortdecai, it’s all about growing up and taking his first big steps in life; his first big love (Vanessa, of course!), his first job, and his bar mitzvah. Rahimzadeh says of his inspiration for this: “I’ve always been an admirer of how Jewish people dress. I find their style aesthetically sophisticated, almost like a capsule collection by Dries van Noten.”

The collection’s key piece is a puffer jacket with a silhouette based on a 1970s Arctic parka, which the designer found in his personal archive. It has tailor-made lining and a water-repellent, stretchy ripstop outer. The colour palette of the entire collection ranges from muted mustard tones to pastel blue and mint green. dearvanessa.eu

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NEWCOMERS

SUSTAINABILITY MADE IN OFFENBACH

Whenever the city of Offenbach is mentioned, one of two things are likely to spring to mind: leather production or gangster rap. But since 2018, the three tailors Evalotte Dronka, Clara Maldener and Rosa Morales have been proving with their label Passepartout that Offenbach can also be associated with exquisite, sustainable fashion. The trio has set itself the laudable goal of not harming the environment or people’s health with their production. Most of the items they produce in their small fair fashion manufactory are unique. From this season they are no longer made of certified organic materials, as before, but only from high-quality residual fabric from surplus production, second-hand shops and flea markets, which are given a new lease of life through recycling and upcycling processes. Their current spring/summer 2019 collection ‘Sister’ focuses on the individuality of each woman with tops that can be adjusted with various tying and wrapping options – no matter what body shape, women should feel comfortable in the designs. Discreet patterns such as pinstripes or small florals and structured fabrics create a modern and playful look at the same time. In addition to female empowerment, the collection title ‘Sister’ also has a political dimension: by clearly distancing itself from fast fashion, Passepartout is calling for solidarity with women exploited by the textile industry.

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TEXT RENÉE DIEHL

passepartoutpassepartout.com

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NEWCOMERS

UV-ACTIVATED SKETCHES

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The first T-shirt designs by Art of Scribble were created out of love for the scribbling down of ideas and thoughts, and a firm belief in the whole art aspect of it. Established in 2016 in the heart of South Korean metropolis Seoul, the brand launched its first spring/summer 2017 collection at international fashion fairs in Italy, Germany and the USA. But its humorous, fresh designs are not the only thing that sets it apart: their individual pieces are printed using special ‘Sun-Tech’ ink, which makes the prints visible only when the wearer goes into the sun with them. The sunnier it is, the faster and more vividly the prints will appear on the clothing.

Indoors, on the other hand, they slowly disappear again, but the shape and colour of the graphics always remain slightly visible. To maintain the colours as long as possible, however, the tees shouldn’t be permanently exposed to sunlight: then they will withstand up to 300 washes.

The inspiration for the designs of the current SS19 collection was the joy of unexpected, beautiful events in life, like travel and love. And the T-shirts are just as colourful as that sounds: with lots of primary colours, playful doodles and witty statements. Since its launch, Art of Scribble has been selling in more than 50 outlets worldwide, with further growth on the cards. artofscribble.com

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02-04/07/2019 Kraftwerk Berlin

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A PORTUGE

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BEHIND THE SCENES — POLOPIQUE

ADAPT &

BEHIND THE SCENES — POLOPIQUE

CHANGE – SE SUCCESS STORY

Luís and his wife Filipa Guimarães founded Polopique in 1996 in Portugal, a country with a rich textile tradition. The company is one of the few complete vertical units in the world, offering all phases of the textile production process from spinning, weaving and garment-making to R&D, innovation and design. J’N’C paid Polopique a visit in Vilarinho, which is in the north of the country, and spoke to CEO Luís Guimarães about the advantages of a vertical structure and Europe as a location for doing business.

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INTERVIEW PIERRE D’AVETA TEXT CHERYLL MÜHLEN PHOTOS MARKUS BRONOLD

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BEHIND THE SCENES — POLOPIQUE

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“Our company has remained a reliable companion throughout all the many shifts in the market,” says Luís Guimarães with satisfaction, directly referencing Polopique’s philosophy. What began as a sourcing company developed into a vertical manufacturer in 2011, in a position to fulfil virtually customer need – and at short notice. This is a sought-after USP that attracts many well-known customers in times of rapidly changing trends and fast fashion. In keeping with their corporate policy, Guimarães prefers not to share the identity of these customers, but he does reveal this much: “Many of our clients are very well-known brands, perhaps the most important ones in the industry.” So what is their recipe for success? The location? The company philosophy? The extensive offer? Or is

it the quality? Luís Guimarães has the answers to our questions…

What is the difference between a company in Asia and your company here in Portugal?

There is a huge difference. When buying form Asia, a client is often forced to pay for the product up front, usually two months in advance, before production, and usually for bulk quantity due to the delivery times. Here, at Polopique, a client has flexibility both regarding payment and deliveries, with various options of partial delivery dates, with any given order completed and delivered to clients within four weeks. And concerning the fashion aspect, we can react very quickly to our clients’ needs because we are vertically positioned.

Apart from the fast reaction your company offers, what else makes Polopique special?

It is very important to me that I can give as much as I can to my employees.

We don’t pay the minimum wage, but 30 percent more than the average.

We give our employees’ health insurance for their families and life insurance as well; and we regularly pay bonuses based on our yearly earnings. I want my life to be comfortable, and I want the people who work with me to be comfortable as well. So, when we were building the new headquarters, I wanted to be sure that this place would be ideal for all of us, since we spend most of our day here.

We must feel like we’re at home.

Another stand-out feature is that you offer a wide range of fabrics, such as jacquard, Oxford, dobby, seersucker, stretch, fil coupé, twill, taffeta, flannel and various knitwear options. Are there any limitations when it comes to the fabrics?

No, we are prepared to create any kind of fabric and any kind of material. And during the whole process we take care of the environment as well.

How? Well, we – as far as I’m concerned – are the only company in the world that always uses 50 percent organic cotton – no

“IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO ME THAT I CAN GIVE AS MUCH AS I CAN TO MY EMPLOYEES.”

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LUÍS GUIMARÃES — FOUNDER OF POLOPIQUE

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Luís Guimarães takes his obligations very seriously. The welfare of his employees, his customers and his country is a matter close to his heart, one of the many reasons why Polopique has developed into an internationally successful company.

BEHIND THE SCENES — POLOPIQUE POLOPIQUE Staying ahead of the competition with state-of-the-art technology and tradition: The extensive archive from two companies creates infinite possibilities for patterns, fabrics and product groups that can be produced effortlessly and at short notice.

So an open-door policy…

Oh yes, completely. For everyone – even for our competitors. But we don’t show them our secrets, of course! (laughing)

I think what you’ve built up here is really impressive. The entire company seems incredibly friendly, open, and transparent. And it comes across as very natural, not in the slightest bit forced.

Thank you, but it really has always been like that.

Another natural mindset here is sustainability. How do you combine sustainability when a client or a brand isn’t interested in that aspect?

Some of our customers don’t give the topic much thought so we always take a risk when we say: “But we do it that way”.

There are still plenty of companies out there who talk serious talk about sus-

tainability when they’re in Europe but when they cross the border…well, not so much! (laughing) You just mentioned political restrictions; what exactly do you mean by that?

We would love to become more sustainable but ironically there are some laws here in Portugal that are holding us back.

Two years ago, we started producing our own energy. But before that we weren’t even allowed to and had to get our energy from the state-owned companies.

Now they allow us a certain amount that we can produce for ourselves. Still, our aim is to be 100 percent self-sufficient with water and solar energy.

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matter what. We’re currently working on a partnership in Uganda to increase the production of organic cotton so we can be certain to live up to the demand.

And we plant lots of trees to keep the balance. Unfortunately, we’re not 100 percent sustainable yet, because of certain political restrictions, but we’re working on it. All in all, our customers can come in and check any time how the fabrics are being made and tell us if they like them or not.

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BEHIND THE SCENES — POLOPIQUE N° 76

POLOPIQUE’S PERSPECTIVE Tucked away amidst the industrial landscape of Vilarinhos in Santo Tirso is the recently renovated and impressive head office of Polopique which, thanks to its modern architecture and huge window fronts, offers idyllic views of the Portuguese countryside.

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Let’s talk about your impressive archive that holds over 80 years of knowledge.

We not only have our own but also a company’s archive, which we were able to buy when they closed four years ago.

You can spend days going through it.

go to a country that can offer you the same or even better product than other countries in Asia – within just a two hours flight – is almost unrivalled. You can come here in the morning and be back home in time for dinner.

So a product designer can go to your archive and browse everything, pick a favourite and have it recreated immediately?

Exactly. We use codes that make it very easy for us to recreate everything from our archive. All within just four weeks.

What would you tell companies that produce in Asia for economic reasons, which is often the main reason for going there?

Honestly, I think that some of the companies still working in Asia aren’t really making the profit they think they are.

These companies will lose out in the long-term. To me, producing there is no longer an opportunity. Twenty years ago it was, yes, but not today. And you shouldn’t underestimate a very specific consumer group: the millennials. They have their own priorities, know exactly

What other advantages are there in having the production in Portugal, or Europe in general?

Well, the first, maybe obvious, advantage is being just two hours away from any other country in Europe. The chance to

what they want and what they need – including ethical products. They’re moving fast and they’re really clued up.

Speaking of future generations, what does the future of Polopique hold?

I hope we have a long-lasting future ahead. Unfortunately, I don’t have my own family working with me at Polopique, but I do have a whole bunch of really good, well-trained young people, who treat this company as if it were their own.

Apart from that, I think that we are very adaptable. We can shift quickly from one day to another; a very important prerequisite for the future textile business.

You have to be able to adapt and change quickly at any time – something we are very good at.

POLOPIQUE.PT

Denim for every season

16 – 19 September 2019 Paris Le Bourget France www.texworld-paris.com

COVER FEATURE

“REFOCUS” —

THE STATE OF DENIM Whenever we talk about denim trends, we generally focus on styles, washes and silhouettes.

Not that these no longer matter, but more fundamental developments, like the way we live our lives or climate change, have a much deeper impact on the industry and the garments we will be wearing in the future.

TEXT BJÖRN LÜDTKE

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For a long time, denim has been a safe bet for brands and retailers. However, at the moment its status as a bestseller seems to be under pressure with the never-ending rise of a trend that is even more casual than jeans – athleisure, with trackies in technical fabrics on the one hand, and a revival of formalwear on the other. The cool kids of Berlin’s Kreuzkölln or Brooklyn’s Williamsburg and the fashion set at the shows in London, Paris or at Pitti seem to be returning to trousers made of cotton and wool. Is denim stuck in the middle?

Alberto Candiani from Candiani Denim is upfront about it: “Denim is currently suffering. Stores are full of jeans that look pretty much the same and can cost anything between 19 to 350 euros. In a way, denim has been cannibalising itself with a lack of innovation and excessive persistency on a stagnant trend.” Denny Hartmann, Head of Marketing & Communications at Cross Jeans, is less pessimistic. “A good pair of jeans is the basis of many looks and easy to combine. That’s why denim products remain important items for all kind of retailers.”

For women, skinny jeans still make up the majority of sales. However, there is a trend towards more volume for the fashion-forward woman. One style element, though, seems to be a given for all: a high waist. Melike Roth, Head of Product Management at Cross Jeans: “With the upcoming 80s and 90s influences, fits are becoming more relaxed and straight

in their silhouettes. Flared, bootcut and wide-leg jeans are gaining in importance and on the rise. But in the overall sales, skinny jeans are still playing a big role for women. Low-waisted items are no longer sustainable, there is definitely a tendency towards high-waisted models.” Dio Kurazawa is Head of Denim at London-based trend forecaster WGSN: “These days it’s trendy for women to have a big backside, spawned by the Kardashian craze. High-waisted jeans give you that certain curve effect and basically push everything up.”

Men, on the other hand, have traditionally been slower to adopt trends. “Obviously that excludes the fashion-forward male who continues to take risks, but the percentage he represents is insignificant,” says Kurazawa. Skinny jeans are still leading the way when it comes to sales. Rosey Cortazzi is Global Marketing Director at Turkish manufacturer Isko: “For men, skinny styles are continuing to drive growth.

Men of all ages are becoming more confident with stretch fabrics as they enjoy the comfort and freedom of movement these products allow.”

For the men and women who are bold enough to venture beyond the meanwhile basic skinny, we asked Dio Kura­ zawa what he thinks is hot (and not!) in terms of denim brands right now. “Hardeman is a young Dutch brand that’s pretty hot. And House of Holland does good denim.” He also mentions Marques Almeida, Wales Bonner, FourTwo in Fairfax and Heron Preston as being directional for the industry, even though they’re not purely denim brands. More traditional brands such as Wrangler, Lee or Guess seem to be losing relevance. Teetering on the edge are brands like Levi’s or Diesel, only redeeming themselves with their collaborations, such as Levi’s with Vetements, or Diesel with Shane Oliver.

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PHOTO IMAXTREE

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BLURRING BOUNDARIES So what do jeans need in order to become more appealing to the customer again? Kurazawa: “What denim has to focus on is what I call performance, functionality and comfort.”

Utility is a key trend that pops up in every conversation with our experts and includes decorative effects like cargo pants or zippers. However, at Isko the trend is interpreted on a deeper level, based on societal developments.

“As times change, we are seeing a blurring of the boundaries between athleisure and denim. Denim brands are becoming more interested in activewear silhouettes and functionality while sportswear brands are showing an increasing interest in denim.” Perhaps a reaction to the cannibalisation of denim in favour of athleisure as discussed above? Isko is reacting to this with four-way stretch technology that moves with the body like a second skin. They are also noticing the effect that the whole ‘experience culture’ is having on denim. “With Gen Z we are seeing experiences becoming more important than possessions, with travel being the number one priority. Generally, in order to minimise costs, they travel with hand luggage only, meaning that garments need to be packable and lightweight.”

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CLIMATE CHANGE & DENIM

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“And climate change is having an impact on people’s lives globally as seasons become more extreme, with warmer summers and colder winters.” More lightweight fabrics for summer and cosier materials for winter are needed. “We created a fabric that provides a surprisingly warm lining without sacrificing a genuine denim aesthetic: Isko Cosy. It’s ideal both for thermal insulation and wind-proofing and a great solution for the harsh winter weather.”

PHOTO WEEKDAY LIMITED RECYCLED EDITION

PHOTO COTONEA

The future lies in sustainable cotton.

Fashion with a conscience is currently in huge demand.

“Younger generations are discovering their voice and will be voting with their credit cards.”

“Climate change is real” is the one unanimous statement that is made by pretty much every expert we talked to in regard to the challenges faced by the denim industry. Sustainability is their trending topic, even though it hasn’t quite hit the consumer mainstream – yet. Younger generations are starting to care more and more about what is happening to the environment as they will be the ones who suffer from the effects, which can already be felt (another reason why the topic is not likely to disappear anytime soon). They are discovering their voice and will be voting with their credit cards. Future consumers might care less about the latest fashions (high or low waist?) rather than the durability and performance of a garment.

Suppliers, brands and retailers need to be ready when this shift happens, as it might come suddenly.

Many manufacturers in Turkey, for example, are leading the way when it comes to using more sustainable production technologies. Other places less so. Dio Kurazawa is not only Head of Denim at WGSN, but also Head of Sustainability.

“The problems are fast fashion and cost, as long as these are a hinderance, you’re not going to see the progression that we

A massive challenge in the entire industry is over-production.

The way the fashion system works at the moment is to produce and then hope to sell. Surplus is burnt or goes to landfill. Because of even more unpredictable weather in the future, forecasting seasonal buys will be even more difficult, so it will be increasingly necessary for brands to consider cutting lead times and working closer to season. “Over-production is being compounded by production strategies that are stuck in seasonal cycles,” says Kurazawa from WGSN. “A move towards trans-seasonal fashion will become more crucial, and in denim, this will be aided by fabric innovations that improve functionality and comfort, and regulate temperatures for a wider range of climates. It will also be important to produce closer to your client base in order to avoid excess shipping times.

On-demand innovations in manufacturing are also a necessary consideration.”

In order to achieve all this, technology will play a crucial role. Bluezone is the denim area at the Munich Fabric Start tradeshow and Panos Sofianos is its curator. “The latest Bluezone focused on B.L.U.E.C.H.A.I.N 4.0. We have investigated the reality of digital technologies […] to underline the necessity of moving faster in terms of how technology can be used in a responsible way to produce textiles […] The challenge is and will be to align all corresponding production steps with each other, from the first idea to the design to the prototype, production and final product.”

TIME TO RE-THINK Every step of the supply chain is under scrutiny in regard to its environmental impact. Can cotton be reused? Chemicals be avoided? Water usage minimised? Candiani Denim consider themselves “the greenest textile company in the blue world”.

Alberto, the head of the company, says: “We use recycled fibres and organic-based materials, waterless dyeing and finishes, degradable ingredients and zero-waste practices.

COVER FEATURE

Head to toe in sustainable denim.

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The RE-GEN capsule made of our recycled cotton and Tencel made with Refibra technology (recycled Lyocell by Lenzing) has been very successful and is actually no longer a capsule since it hit our main collection. Kitotex technology has taken over 50 percent of our collection so our water stays clean after the dyeing process and can be reused over and over again. All our fabrics are now engineered according to the latest washing technology so garment makers can be more efficient and successful using laser and ozone only.”

It is not only the industry that needs to re-think bad habits. Over-production is one thing, over-consumption another. Education is key. But who is going to educate whom?

Inspiring consumers to buy less may seem contradictory to an industry that is used to growth as one of its main trajectories.

However, younger generations will want to buy from brands they can identify with. Owning the latest trend might no longer be a status symbol. It might be more about having a durable product that wasn’t produced at the cost of mankind, animals and nature, along the lines of ‘You are what you wear’.

Kurazawa from WGSN: “It’s about being creative as a brand.

You can design a care instructions label in so many ways, if it’s intriguing enough, I’ll take it out, look at it and read it. Why not even make a cool badge out of it?” The care label might even suggest water-saving alternatives to a regular cycle in the washing machine or tell you that you don’t have to wash your jeans after every wear. “We have to be creative. The planet needs to be saved, so we have to think of intelligent ways of getting each other’s attention and to help us refocus on the things that are most important.”

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need to see. A lot of the denim we’re talking about is made in Bangladesh. The Rana Plaza building collapse is a reality.”

However, there is no blame attached. As long as we’re pushing fast fashion and keep cutting prices, it’s more like the chicken or the egg problem. “How can you expect them to invest – or where are they going to get the money to invest?”

Rosey Cortazzi from Isko: “We are seeing that consumers, especially Generation Y and Generation Z, are ready to walk away from brands that don’t demonstrate that they are good corporate citizens. This is generating a pressure on the industry and increasing the general level of knowledge about environmental and social impacts. As a result, brands and retailers are becoming more and more interested in proving that fashion can be done differently.”

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SASHIMI DENIM JACKET & PANTS ULLAC T-SHIRT ELLESSE HOODIE BJÖRN BORG

SASHIMI DENIM PHOTOGRAPHY PER FLORIAN APPELGREN PHOTOGRAPHERS ASSISTANT JULIAN WIEGAND STYLING NATALIA WITSCHKE GROOMING & MAKE-UP KERSTIN HUESGES

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MODEL JANNIK @ M4 MODELS

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SASHIMI DENIM

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SHIRT NEW ERA SUIT ISKO SCARF KINGS OF INDIGO

SASHIMI DENIM

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SWEATER SCOTCH & SODA SHIRT SOORTY DENIM COAT CANDIANI COAT CROCKET JEANS NUDIE SOCKS DICKIES SNEAKERS REEBOK SUNGLASSES MYKITA X MARTIN MARGIELA

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SASHIMI DENIM

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DENIM SHIRT GARCIA DENIM JACKET DIESEL JEANS CALVIN KLEIN JEANS SOCKS MODEL’S OWN SHOES STYLIST’S OWN BRACES STYLIST’S OWN

SASHIMI DENIM

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SHIRT CALIK JACKET LEE PANTS HOMEBOY SOCKS DICKIES SNEAKERS NEW BALANCE

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SASHIMI DENIM

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DENIM SHIRT WRANGLER SWEATER MARCEL OSTERTAG DENIM JACKET LEE JEANS KINGS OF INDIGO

SASHIMI DENIM

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POLO SHIRT FRED PERRY DENIM JACKET CARHARTT JEANS ORTA ANADOLU SOCKS MODEL’S OWN SHOES DR. MARTEN’S BEANIE SCOTCH & SODA BAG FREITAG

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SASHIMI DENIM

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JACKET ULLAC T-SHIRT KID VANILLA JEANS KINGS OF INDIGO SUNGLASSES KOMONO

SASHIMI DENIM

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DENIM JACKET ISKUR SWEATER REEBOK COAT KINGS OF INDIGO JEANS DICKIES SOCKS MODEL’S OWN SHOES REEBOK BEANIE CARHARTT

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SASHIMI DENIM

INTERVIEW – KNOWLEDGECOTTON APPAREL

THE WILL TO MAKE SACRIFICES Sustainable menswear brand KnowledgeCotton Apparel is already having a great year: the Danish brand celebrated the launch of its first denim collection for the autumn/winter 2019 season. For J’N’C, this was a perfect excuse to visit the team at their Copenhagen showroom and ask founder and CEO, Mads Mørup, about the motivation behind it and the future of denim.

INTERVIEW PIERRE D’AVETA TEXT CHERYLL MÜHLEN PHOTOS MARKUS BRONOLD

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For autumn/winter 2019 you launched your denim line, which you claim to be ’the most honest denim line ever created’. Can you explain what makes it so special?

It’s been a long journey for us to get this product into our collection. We tried it before but weren’t happy with the results back then. Now our research and the partners seemed right to achieve what we wanted with our sustainable denim line, so this new line is our take on denim.

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to because we can take it in different directions.

Can we expect more fits and different colours next season?

Yes, for SS20 we are stepping into a blue wash, a summery jeans style. And we are also launching a wider, or let’s say loose fit.

Was it a successful launch?

Yes, it has been very well received, and we are extremely selective because this denim line will never be an on-sale item. And I think many retailers appreciate that.

When you launched the denim collection, many people wondered why it had taken you so long…

We just wanted to be sure that we did it right. Our customer base is very aware and discerning. So every little detail had to be thought through. It might just be a simple pair of jeans to some, but to us it’s more than a mere product. It is an exercise, a development.

What does KnowledgeCotton Apparel expect from the denim line?

We’re starting off small and will be taking it step by step. But if we can get the denim business going, it’s a completely new field for us and an extension of the brand. It represents a potential distribution that we’re looking forward

Speaking of development: you also added the CarbonFree certificate to your profile.

Yes, we’ve become a certified carbonneutral company. That means we need to keep track of our entire CO2 emissions. We need to document our flights and where we’re flying to, the way we

travel to work, go home from work – for every employee. But we also keep track of our factories and if the shipment has been on a vessel, on a truck or on an airplane. We even track and check the shipments to our customers. It’s a lot of pressure but in a good and efficient way. It becomes a healthy exercise.

Does this also count for your own little forest?

Somehow, yes. For those who don’t know, we have our own little forest with 2,000 trees in India. You could also call them carbon-neutral eaters because these trees ‘eat’ more carbon than a regular tree. So when we produce our shirts in India, we make sure that our consumption of CO2 caused by the production is no more than what our forest can consume. And in order to become an A-supplier of Knowledge­ Cotton you have to become carbonneutral, either by using windmills or solar panels. Many of our factories already do this and we’re actually building a new factory in India that will be 100 percent powered by solar energy.

INTERVIEW – KNOWLEDGECOTTON APPAREL N° 76 Mads Mørup, CEO & founder of KnowledgeCotton Apparel

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INTERVIEW – KNOWLEDGECOTTON APPAREL

KNOWLDEGECOTTON APPAREL Light, uncluttered and stylish: The showroom in Copenhagen is a reflection of KnowledgeCotton Apparel’s design standards and the perfect backdrop for the new collection.

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We are noticing a huge gap between the knowledge of sustainability from a consumer’s point of view and a retailer’s.

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Where does sustainability start in the first place?

At the very beginning, i.e. how you create the raw materials. This counts for everything that we consume in this world.

It’s crucial that the product is born in the right way. The process of manufacturing is ‘just’ fine-tuning all the attributes and details.

What obstacles do sustainable brands face that others don’t? And how do you overcome them?

You have to be willing to make sacrifices.

There are certain products that we cannot make the way we want to because the technical requirements are simply not in place yet. But it’s first and foremost about an awareness of what sustainability is and what it really means.

What we are facing at the moment, kind of our current main challenge, is greenwashing. Since the word ‘sustainability’ is being used more and more, what does sustainability actually mean in real life? So from a marketing perspective, it’s really hard for us to explain all this to the retailers. And how are they going to teach their staff and how will their staff communicate it to the consumer?

sumer’s point of view and a retailer’s.

The end consumer is very much aware of what sustainable fashion really is, what it stands for and what it should be like, while the retailers sometimes lack this knowledge. The demand from consumers these days is very high.

Communication and transparency are the most important factors.

Yes, they are. Radical transparency is going to be part of our business. And we are noticing a huge gap between the knowledge of sustainability from a con-

Are you planning on making more friends by launching a women’s line someday?

We haven’t planned it as yet, but it’s definitely something we’re thinking about.

So you invest in informing your partners, clients and retailers?

Yes, and in the way we communicate. We were very nerdy and technical in our communication before, but now we are trying to embrace sustainability more from a lifestyle perspective, to make it more accessible. But we also stand for steadfastness and teamwork. Many of our customers feel this spirit and our love for the product. You come as a customer but walk out as a friend.

KNOWLEDGECOTTONAPPAREL.COM

INTERVIEW – NUDIE JEANS

BETTER AND BETTER Joakim Levin is a big name in the world of denim.

Together with Maria Erixon and Palle Stenberg, he established sustainable jeans brand Nudie Jeans in 1999.

After repositioning themselves and taking a new direction, their pioneering work is meanwhile bearing fruit. We met up with Levin, who after a brief break is now back at the helm as CEO, for a chat at the Nudie Jeans head office in Gothenburg.

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Since you’ve been back on board as CEO for the last two and a half years, there has also been a new design team in the picture.

Sort of, because we’ve had a new Collection Manager, Martin Gustavsson, since last year. He used to work here when we started out, but then founded his own label and worked on some other interesting projects. But I managed to convince him to come back! (laughing) So now, as Head of Collections, he’s been in charge of the products for the last twelve months.

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Has he already left his mark in terms of the design?

Oh yes, absolutely. You’ll see. The first collection that he’s been in charge of will be the summer 2019 collection, which comes out this April.

Joakim Levin standing proudly under the iconic Nudie ‘N’.

INTERVIEW – NUDIE JEANS NUDIE JEANS Nudie’s HQ is located in a former bank building housing both their showroom and creative hub. Not to mention their collection of countless denim items, which are stored and further developed into new ideas here.

I’m curious, too. But when you say that Nudie will be focusing more on denim again, I have to ask: is the denim market struggling?

In general, I think it’s really tough. A wide majority of distributors that were available ten years ago are no longer here today, and street and sportswear are dominant trends. But denim has always sold well.

Even getting into the denim market today, as a newcomer, is hard – compared to when we started, the denim market is a completely different landscape.

Looking back and right into the future, what are you most proud of?

I’m very proud of our slow, but steady growth over the years. And we’re more focused on our repair shops so jeans can be reused and therefore worn for longer.

Currently we are opening several repair shops with selected retailers so the consumer has more opportunities to have

their denims mended. It might sound like a small step, but trying to be better – along with our customers – is what we always did and still do. We just focus on the projects we have and keep on digging from where we stand.

Sustainability is about giving very simple answers to very complicated questions.

Is there anything you hoped the industry would have accomplished by now?

Of course, I would have hoped that the industry in general would have progressed further with regards to sustainability.

It’s a huge topic with a lot of potential

for debate but, to cut a long story short, I would love to see the entire industry – not only denim, but fashion – focusing more on quality instead of quantity.

How do you combine sustainability in your life? Are you 100 percent sustainable when it comes to clothes?

I don’t think I’m better than anyone else.

As a matter of fact, here at Nudie we’re not that different from the rest of the world. A lot of people want to be more conscious and do better. Sustainability and what we do has never been about pointing fingers – we are simply trying to do the best we can and want to help others by becoming better wherever we can. Offering a free repair service and sustainable products and helping consumers to make good choices is how we can make a contribution. But to achieve real change, we need to rethink the way we live our daily lives. And we can start by making a small difference in how we buy and use jeans. Sustainability is about giving very simple answers to very complicated questions.

I don’t have a solution on how to live sustainably. I’m just trying as hard as I can in my personal life and I’m trying my best with my company.

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Give us a hint…

I would say it’s more focused on denim, a little bit more contemporary and a little bit back to basics – which is how we started out. Not as serious as in the beginning, more playful, louder, and definitely more colourful. And I can say that I’m extremely happy with the developments and really excited to see people’s response to it.

NUDIEJEANS.COM

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INTERVIEW – DR. DENIM

DENIM TRINITY

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INTERVIEW PIERRE D’AVETA TEXT AYLIN YAVUZ PHOTOS MARKUS BRONOLD

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Morten, Alexander and Johannes Graah are the driving forces behind beloved brand Dr. Denim.

The trio has been working together for 15 years now and invited us to their hometown of Gothenburg to talk about the evolution of the industry, running a family business and being “a little bit extra crazy about denim”.

Dr. Denim has its own fan community and is well known in the industry, but how would you describe Dr. Denim in just one sentence?

Alexander: Great jeans, made for living that fit just right and don’t cost a fortune.

That’s just what we do – and always have and always will.

A lot has changed since you started out in 2004. What’s the most significant and maybe most positive change you’ve noticed so far?

Alexander: To boil it down to a few key factors, one enormous thing is social media, which has impacted consumer behaviour like nothing else in modern times. It has levelled the playing field a lot; small players are able to reach a global audience and disrupt the industry in various ways. Also: the awareness of sustainability. Today consumers are very

aware of it and a lot of players in the industry have changed their approach.

Factories, for instance, are structuring themselves completely differently in terms of how they finish garments and how they source sustainable fibres etc.

Speaking of sustainability: is it a big topic for you within the company?

Alexander: It is. We’re not yet top of the class but we do as much as we can, given our position as a niche brand and our price point. So for us it’s not necessarily going to be all 100 percent organic cotton: sometimes we’ll use other sustainable fibres or work on the process or the chemical side of it. We find a balance and focus where it matters the most.

You mentioned the price of your jeans.

How is it possible to offer a good pair at a reasonable price?

INTERVIEW – DR. DENIM DR. DENIM The ‘Make Denim Great Again’ cap is not only a witty take on one of the most divisive political slogans of our time, but also a promise that the Graah family wants to keep – while maintaining affordable prices.

You have to justify your existence every day of the week.

The European market is well-trodden turf for your brand. How about other markets, such as the US? Johannes: Yes, Europe is where we have the widest distribution. But speaking of territories further afield, we’ve been

represented in Australia since 2007.

We’ve also been in Japan, New Zealand and other countries for a long period of time. We don’t look at demographics, but ask ourselves: how can we find the right team that can deliver the right Dr. Denim experience in any market, regardless of the market’s size?

Regarding the US, we’ve taken a different approach based on a subsidiary with an in-house showroom – not necessarily the obvious step to take when entering the US. It takes time to convince people.

It’s not the fastest way, but when you get it right, it really flows.

Looking at the denim industry in general, how would you sum it up right now?

Alexander: Interesting question. It’s a fast-changing industry and has changed very rapidly over the years, the most recent five years being the most interesting ones. It has changed and is still changing, so because of that we have a lot of opportunities, room and demand, especially for niche players. Now it’s just a question of positioning yourself and building off of that. But the landscape is way more dynamic and means you can’t just rest on your laurels and assume that because what you did worked ten years ago, it’ll work now. That’s no longer the

case. You have to justify your existence every day of the week. That’s how we see it at least.

Let’s get a little personal: Dr. Denim is a family business. How do you manage to work with each other and differentiate between being colleagues and family?

Morten: First of all, all three of us are very passionate about denim. We all have different strengths and need each other’s competencies. We manage to challenge each other, have good dialogue and one ground rule: never fight to the extent that we abandon something at work.

A family business will always be special.

We understand that it can seem like a liability but to us it’s an asset.

What are you most excited about in the future?

Alexander: We’re actually making quite a lot of changes right now. You’ll see something new for the men’s collection for SS20. We also removed all legacy products, built a completely new palette of fits, fabrics and washes. So basically, we’re starting from scratch. You’ll still recognise Dr. Denim in every sense though – it will just be better.

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Alexander: You can’t just go into this with a traditional product portfolio perspective. You need to be a little bit extra crazy about denim, you need to believe that you can do things which people say you can’t, then you strive to do that and push that every day of the week. It’s a challenge and the only way you can get these two things to coexist is to be personally committed.

DRDENIM.COM

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INTERVIEW – ISKO

THE COMPRESSION REVOLUTION Turkish manufacturer Isko currently has over ten existing patents and over 100 patents in the pipeline. Among the most exciting is their wearable technology, which includes motion and touch sensors.

But with its world’s first woven compression product system, Isko Vital technology is probably one of the most comfortable innovations out there right now. We met up with Serkan Mert, Garment Development & Quality Specialist at Isko, for an interview to find out what makes this new line so unique.

INTERVIEW VANESSA PECHERSKI

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At this year’s ISPO Munich you launched your latest accomplishment: Isko Vital.

Can you tell us why it’s so unique?

Isko Vital is the innovative fabric and garment technology platform delivering the world’s first woven compression product system. We believe that this revolutionary concept, now in the process of being patented, will change the game in the industry with its multiple benefits and end uses. All Isko Vita fabrics are woven, offering users a higher durability performance level. Another added value is that the compression properties of the fabric don’t deteriorate over time. On account of its many benefits, not only has the platform been certified by the independent Hohenstein Institute in Bönnigheim, Germany, but also received the endorsement of a plethora of scientists.

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Where will Isko Vital be used and who is the most obvious target group?

The platform has a wide range of end uses and a large target audience. We noticed that millennials, in particular Generation Z,

are focused on experiencing the world rather than amassing wealth. These products are ideal for travelling as they help protect the wearer from ‘economy-class syndrome’ (deep vein thrombosis) on long-haul flights, without them having to wear an uncomfortable pair of socks.

But the fabric garment system is also great for the athleisure market due to its many benefits. It can aid recovery after high-impact sports, decrease muscle soreness and allow a better oxygenation of muscle tissue. The massaging properties of the product also make it suitable for the wellness industry as well as for everyday use. It can be particularly helpful for people with jobs that require prolonged standing.

Do you ever reach a point where something is simply impossible?

We never stop pushing the unlimited possibilities of denim and fashion. We do this with an approach focusing on competence, creativity and citizenship, working hand in hand with brands and designers to create a tailored response to their vision. We believe we should never stand still and always raise the bar of what we think is possible or not. For example, as a very unique approach in the fashion business, Isko is known for its patented technologies aimed at protecting innovation.

Through our advanced experimentations we’re also able to bring together the world of ‘sci-fi’ technologies with fabrics and garments, so the sky’s the limit!

How much research and how many years did it take?

Isko Vital is the culmination of a two-year development. This is the latest result of our research laboratory, embodying the company’s drive towards innovation and advanced technology applications.

Isko Vital started off with 18 pieces. What will follow next?

The European launch of the product took place at ISPO and we’re planning a USA launch at Outdoor Retailer in June.

ISKO.COM.TR

14. – 17. 5. 2019 Leading International Trade Fair for Processing Textile and Flexible Materials

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NEW CLOTHING. Concentrated inspiration for the textile processing of tomorrow: Experience the hotspot for innovative technologies around the processing of clothing. texprocess.com

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INTERVIEW – TRUE RELIGION

A TRUE COMEBACK Whether it’s a guitar-playing Buddha, striking stitching or a horseshoe; in the denim industry, these three elements have always been associated with True Religion. After all, the premium American denim brand has been regarded as a must-have for all jeans aficionados ever since it was esta­ blished in 2002. But after countless cases of plagiarism and the subsequent damage to its image, the brand has had to fight its way back into the must-have lists. Which it is doing with great success, as Reinhard Haase revealed to us in an interview.

Reinhard Haase, Managing Director of UNIFA Premium GmbH and True Religion Brand Jeans Germany GmbH INTERVIEW CHERYLL MÜHLEN

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Mr Haase, what’s been happening at True Religion recently?

Quite a lot, but first we need to distinguish between what’s been going on in the USA and Europe. While the US has its own retail business, here in Europe we are driving forward the wholesale business of True Religion. That’s the big difference to America. 90 percent of their business is made up of stores, whether outlet or full-price stores, but they’re not strongly positioned in wholesale business.

Lauren Kraus was recently appointed International Sales Manager and her task will be to try to also establish this wholesale sector in America, while also reaching out to the Asian market again.

And our wish for Europe is similarly strong; that we can integrate other countries back into the True Religion business. But as we know from experience, that will be no easy task because premium denim has never really been met with the same acceptance as it has in Germany, Benelux and the UK.

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Which countries are you referring to in particular?

France, Spain, Italy or the Scandinavian countries, for example.

Why is that?

Some of them simply have their own markets. Italy is still very focused on its own jeans brands. France, on the other hand, has never really been a denim market, at least as far as L.A. brands are concerned. But interestingly enough, we are doing very well in the UK, including at Selfridges, where our styles are among the top sellers. Basically, we generate 70 to 80 percent of our turnover with ladies’ styles, while in the UK and the USA it’s the opposite.

How do you plan on winning back the male target group on the German market?

After the Super Ts and Big Ts took a big hit to their image following cases of plagiarism, which was damaging to the brand, the ladies’ collections automatically became stronger. That’s just the nature of distribution because you sell what is doing well. We didn’t neglect the men’s collections, but we had to deal with the slight damage to our reputation first. That’s why we’ve lost out on the men’s business. And let’s put it this way: women forget faster than men – at least when it comes to fashion! (grinning) But the secret still lies in the fit of True Religion: it’s just cool. Like the brand itself.

It’s always been different. We have the Buddha, the horseshoe; eye-catching visuals that we can develop and feature within the collections. We have significantly reduced the number of Super T style down to eight and made the stitching colours more understated, that’s it.

What sets the German end consumer apart from consumers in the rest of the world?

Of course we can only judge the German market, but if you compare it with our market in England, you will see clear differences in the look. An incredible number of jogging items by True Religion are sold there. But they aren’t really as accepted or widespread in Germany. Although the country is one of the strongest markets, the Germans prefer their basics.

Do you sometimes wish that it was different?

No. Why would I? If it’s already working…

And to conclude, please describe True Religion in one sentence.

We do denim differently. And I stand behind that 100 percent.

TRUERELIGION.COM

MODEFABRIEK AMSTERDAM FASHION TRADE EVENT JULY 8–9 2019

M O D E F A B R I E K . N L

INTERVIEW – DOCKERS CHALLENGERS: DRY BATH

“STAY HUNGRY, STAY FOOLISH…” From tea-leaf cigarettes and a magazine to a pioneering product that can really make a difference: the mission of young entrepreneur Ludwick Marishane is to enthusiastically tackle existing problems in a smart way. The face of the current Dockers Challengers campaign is the brains behind DryBath – the world’s first waterless body wash that can replace having an actual bath.

This invention perfectly symbolises the South African’s goal in life: to make the world a little bit better.

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INTERVIEW VANESSA PECHERSKI

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Can you remember a key moment or experience when you first realised that you really wanted to make a difference?

It basically all started with my dad. I lived with my mom in rural Limpopo until I was seven years old and then moved to live with my father in a new environment where English was the first language.

More than 2.5 billion people in the world today have no adequate access to water and sanitation.

Around that time, my father introduced the rule that I had to give him a presentation about what I had learned in the morning, after break and after school every single day – from second up until fourth grade. He eventually stopped asking me to do it, but it was a good way of showing me the value of hard work and it made me the CEO of my own education.

From then on, I knew I had to make an effort to create value and decided to create values for others – wherever and whenever I could.

You came up with various business ideas before becoming the founder of DryBath…

Well, for me it was never really about being right. Whenever an existing problem catches my attention, I always ask myself: is it actually a problem? Is that problem relevant to me? And how can I solve it?

And then I work on it – whether I’m right or wrong. From my failed attempt applying for a patent for tea-leaf cigarettes

and founding my very own magazine to DryBath, I tend to eye ‘problems’ with a certain naivety that I think most entrepreneurs actually need. In the words of Steve Jobs: “Stay hungry, stay foolish”.

This particular example of foolishness made you build a company with nothing but a mobile phone to help you. Tell us about the background of DryBath: a product that keeps you clean without using a single drop of water.

When I was 17, I was relaxing in the sun with a few friends of mine. One of them came up to me and asked: “Why doesn’t someone invent something that you can just put on your skin so you don’t have to have a bath?” I thought about it, decided that I would buy something like that myself, went home, did some research and found some very shocking statistics: more than 2.5 billion people in the world today have no adequate access to water and sanitation. It took me years, but with no laptop and no proper internet I did

What are your personal preferences when it comes to fashion?

If I could have a uniform, I would literally wear one every single day. I don’t want to have to think too much and need clothes that actually work – hence my alliance with the brand.

As you are so vocal about your obsession with solving problems, how can your product idea be translated to the fashion industry?

Our generation is no longer obsessed with ownership. I personally don’t see the point in owning things. The waste caused by the industry that you currently see could get worse before it gets better.

I can imagine my generation saying: “I pay a subscription to Zara, I can come and grab the clothes I need and bring them back the next day.” That would be a good way for the problem to eventually solve itself, wouldn’t it?

DRYBATHGEL.COM DOCKERS.COM

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A true challenger: With his Dry Bath products, entrepreneur Ludwick Marishane is showing how he’s one step ahead of us all.

Your impressive perseverance made you one of the protagonists of the Dockers Challengers campaign. How did the cooperation come about?

I got an e-mail from them but didn’t know who they were, so I didn’t really pay much attention to it. I didn’t even respond the first time. And then a few years later they contacted me again, once again expressing their interest in working with me. The irony is that I love chinos! When I heard about the brand, I wanted to see the samples and when I found out that I could even do yoga in them, I knew that they perform the way they’re supposed to, which ultimately convinced me.

INTERVIEW – DOCKERS CHALLENGERS: DRY BATH

some scientific research, wrote down a formula, a 40-page business plan and a patent – all on my mobile phone. That’s how I invented DryBath: the world’s first water-substitute body wash.

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INTERVIEW – AFEW

SLAM DUNK! Afew is one of the leading sneaker stores in Germany, both online and offline.

Brothers Andy and Marco Biergen established their sneaker-mad business in Düsseldorf in 2008. October 2018 marked their ten-year anniversary, beginning with an exhibition that chronologically documented the store’s history using information panels, photos and display cases. The highlights were without a doubt the sneaker editions that Afew has brought out over the years in collaboration with brands like Diadora, Asics, Adidas and Kangaroos. And further anniversary events are in the pipeline. We caught up with Andy Biergen for a conversation about the added benefits of e-commerce, collaborations and the Afew community.

INTERVIEW CYNTHIA BLASBERG PHOTOS AFEW

Afew isn’t just known for selling limited edition sneakers, but also getting involved in collaborations. You’ve meanwhile worked with almost every brand.

When did you start doing that?

Our first official collaboration was in 2014, the ‘Afew x Kangaroos Peanut Butter’ with a run of 100 pairs. But it feels more like the ball really started rolling with the ‘Koi’, based on the ‘Gel Lyte III’ by Asics.

Officially we only did the collaboration in 2015 but first approached them about it in 2012. To celebrate Japan Day in Düsseldorf, we wanted to do a limited edition

of the ‘Koi’. The huge Japanese community in Düsseldorf, a Japanese brand, and Afew, which is located in Düsseldorf’s Japanese neighbourhood, also known as ‘Little Tokyo on the Rhine’: to us it seemed like the perfect match! But the Asics headquarters in Tokyo decided against it because they usually cooperate with celebrities or really big stores.

Despite this, we wanted to see our idea through anyway and decided to have a pair made by hand together with a leather workshop and a master shoemaker. And then we presented that one pair on our website and on social media. The ‘Koi’ went viral all over the world and suddenly we had a whole lot of requests. Asics even caught wind of it too. For the 25-year anniversary of the ‘Gel Lyte III’ we, and a few other selected stores, were asked and were finally able to bring out the ‘Koi’ officially – on Japan Day! How did you originally get into the sneaker business?

We were basketball fans when we were kids and also loved playing it ourselves.

Marco and I always wanted to have the sneakers of our favourite basketball players. But it was difficult to get our hands on the shoes in Germany. When we were older, we started sourcing sneakers via our trainer and his connections. First for us, then for friends, and then for friends of friends – until one day we had around 100 pairs in our dad’s garage. We then started selling shoes on Ebay, which helped us to finance our shoe addiction and also trips to the USA,

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INTERVIEW – AFEW

obviously to buy more sneakers! After completing our apprenticeships, we were stuck in jobs that we weren’t happy in, so we opened the store.

So you could say you turned your hobby into a career...

You could say that! (laughing) You also launched your online shop right at the beginning. Does e-commerce bring added benefits or is just competition for your stationary store?

We show that sneakers are part of a culture, a lifestyle.

selling shoes. The limited editions in particular are really special and still get us excited. The customers notice that and it’s contagious. We show that sneakers are part of a culture, a lifestyle. There are stories associated with the individual sneaker models that we tell online, but also offline. By doing that we’ve built up a community throughout Europe.

Speaking of community: I read that in 2015, over 250 people from all over Europe camped out in front of your store for four days for the release of the ‘Koi’. How would you describe your community and what significance does it have for a store like Afew?

Our community is a vibrant mix. There are people who have followed what we do since day one and grown with us. Then you have the kids. And there are people, for example, who discover Virgil Abloh and end up finding out about us that way.

And at the big releases or events they all come together. We try to steer the hype surrounding sneakers in certain directions

and to tell the story behind it, in order to give the hype or the sneakers in question a foundation. We not only do that via digital channels, but also offer events where the community gets together. We see it as our duty to speak to our customers, to acknowledge them and to offer them more than just kicks. For example, we’ve initiated a meet-up called the ‘Afew addicted Community’ and get together at irregular intervals, around once a month.

It’s more of a regional meet-up, but for our ten-year anniversary we invited people from across the whole of Europe.

What do you think is the secret of your success?

It’s like the first ‘Koi’ that we just went ahead and did: you somehow have to weave your way in there. Once you have a foot in the door, you have to make the most of it. Really get people talking and then deliver the goods – and then you’ll have the opportunity to grow.

AFEW-STORE.COM

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The online shop definitely brings extra benefits. You can do a lot of things online that just aren’t possible in a bricks-andmortar store. We produce a lot of content and generate traffic. People visit our website, and meanwhile also our social media channels, to keep up to date with the latest sneakers. We do photo shoots, video campaigns and create editorial content. That’s how we provide people with an overall impression of the products. Customers come into our store because a cool photo on Instagram has caught their eye. In the store they experience a personal connection thanks to our team. And everyone in the team really is fantastic, because they are friendly and well-informed. They can also authentically pass on their enthusiasm for sneakers. After all, it’s about more than just

Just like a gallery, the store, with its characteristic turquoise flooring, provides customers with a direct overview of the sought-after sneaker models.

Andy Biergen, co-founder of Afew

The two Afew brothers don’t shy away from experiments.

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TRADESHOW PREVIEW

PANORAMA BERLIN & SELVEDGE RUN Berlin

2 — 4 July 2019

panorama-berlin.com, selvedgerun.com

SUCCESSFUL REORIENTATION This July, Panorama Berlin is picking up where it left off in January. In other words, the event factor, infotainment and ‘matchmaking’ will continue to be the organisers’ core focus, as they are what ultimately provide recognisable added value for the industry. In addition, visitors to the Retail Solutions Hall will be offered an educational programme with ‘knowledge to go’, providing solutions to challenges that retailers are facing at the POS. In addition to all that, for the first time a new creative platform for outdoor, active sports and lifestyle brands will take place outside the South entrance of the Berlin Expo Center, serving as a new hotspot for the Selvedge Run & Zeitgeist community. Together with Selvedge Run & Zeitgeist, as well as Xoom, Panorama is showing that it’s an extremely versatile platform.

“After the very successful merger with Panorama Berlin, Berlin Expo Center is the new home of Selvedge Run & Zeitgeist. As an integrated part of Panorama Berlin, we have created an impressive platform that presents an exciting mix, centred on the themes of Denim, Craft, Tradition and Current, as well as presenting the crossover concept as a social trend.”

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Shane Brandenburg ­— founder of Selvedge Run

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“If we look back at the last edition in January, it becomes clear that the reorientation of our concept, focusing more on the event and infotainment aspects, has really struck a chord with the industry. And the positive feedback we received afterwards has proven us right.”

Jörg Wichmann ­— Managing Director of Panorama Berlin

Amsterdam

10 — 11 April 2019

kingpinsshow.com

TRADESHOW PREVIEW

KINGPINS AMSTERDAM FROM LEADERS TO LEGENDS This April will mark the roll-out of Kingpins Amsterdam’s new exhibitor criteria requirements. Which means that the organisers are requesting that all denim suppliers exhibiting at Kingpins Amsterdam attain a Social Compliance (CSR) standard.

“We believe all exhibitors should have this standard by the end of 2020 in order to exhibit at our show in 2021,” says founder Andrew Olah, who is setting new benchmarks.

“Our voices are much louder and stronger together than individually, but we need to show accomplishments and transparency – which, in the end, publicly demonstrates our commitment to making our industry better for everyone – producers, marketers, consumers and our planet.”

Andrew Olah ­— founder of Kingpins

MODEFABRIEK 8 — 9 July 2019

modefabriek.nl “As well as being very proud of all (600!) brands on show, I really like the fact that we are providing more than fashion with our incredibly inspiring fringe programme. You have the possibility to see new collections, meet people and gain information and inspiration. We understand that creativity is good business – and good fun.”

Lucel van den Hoeven — CEO of Modefabriek

CREATIVE POOL Instead of from Sunday to Monday, Modefabriek will now be taking place from Monday to Tuesday. But, as usual, the fair is much more than just two days of viewing the latest collections, discovering brands and meeting new people.

With its MF Talks line-up, it is recognised as a procreative and inspiring fashion trade event and a real highlight that you won’t want to miss.

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Amsterdam

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TRADESHOW PREVIEW

SEEK Berlin

2 — 4 July 2019

seekexhibitions.com

HUB OF COOL The ‘Trade Union’ concept developed

by Seek Director Maren Wiebus and her team will be continued this July and fine-tuned each time.

Pioneers and visionaries from the industry will continue to be given extra space to boost communication and inspiration and provide food for thought. And this time too, sharing is caring: together with Berlin NGO One Warm Winter, the fair is doing its bit for charity.

The motto this time is sneakers: the exhibitors, as well as all visitors, will be asked to donate their old pairs by putting them in the containers provided.

#FASHIONTECH BERLIN Berlin

2 — 3 July 2019

fashiontech.berlin

A MUST-VISIT This is where the industry gets together to share digital knowledge, to learn and to develop new business models. It’s also an ideal place to check the progress of your own company’s digital transformation. A total of four areas ensure that everyone leaves the event having gained knowledge that is relevant to their own business. #FASHIONTECH Berlin is a must-attend event for decision-makers and big players in the fashion industry.

“With best-case examples, we want to inspire decision-makers to drive forward the digital transformation in their companies.

After all, if you’re already lagging behind today, you will have difficulties surviving on the market in the future. We want to communicate a new spirit and promote the desire to experiment. It’s all about trying out new things and being faster.”

Michael Stracke — Chief Business Development Officer of #Fashiontech Berlin

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PREMIUM Berlin

2 — 4 July 2019

premiumexhibitions.com

SIGHTS SET ON THE FUTURE The tradeshow landscape is evolving. And so is Premium.

The restructuring of the halls, which started in January 2019, will continue to be at the focus next season too.

The goal is to summarise the themed areas more precisely and to make it easier for visitors to maintain an overview, as well as to inspire them and reach out to them on an emotional level. Exhibitors here present key looks rather than huge collections. And sustainability is another topic that Premium is remaining loyal to. So not only will increasing numbers of sustainable brands be exhibiting at Station Berlin, but in terms of catering they will also be doing without plastic, ensuring that waste is separated for recycling, and also promoting eco brands in particular.

“Every day we are having conversations on how to avoid the use of plastic and are working together with all of the sector’s protagonists to find specific solutions.

With Premium, we are providing a platform for sustainable brands, as well as German designers who produce locally and new technologies that contribute to a better ecosystem in the long term. As a sparring partner of the industry, we promote dialogue and help people to network. Only together can we make a change.”

Anita Tillmann — Managing Partner of Premium Exhibitions

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NEONYT Berlin

2 — 4 July 2019

neonyt.messefrankfurt.com

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SPOTLIGHT ON RETAIL New positioning, new quality, new appeal – the first edition of Neonyt impressed in January with an even more streamlined fashion profile, in-depth contents and community building. For the upcoming event the organisers are already considering putting more of a focus on the topics of technology and innovations. Leading the way here is the presentation format ‘Showcase of Change’, which will make the innovative products and services by international exhibitors more tangible for visitors and also lay the foundations for a sustainable fashion future. And with a specially tailored line-up of talks and a showcase, Neonyt is shifting the focus onto retail: conventional retailers in particular will be provided with retail know-how to help their customers make sustainable fashion choices.

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“Neonyt is a unique format worldwide that is clearly leading the way into a sustainable fashion future. Beyond the three days of the fair, we experienced on-trend labels with excellent collections and first-rate talks by forwardthinkers from the fashion business. The mood was extremely positive and defined by the changes in fashion and optimism paired with a sense of awakening. Our success was also reflected in the increasing number of conventional retailers and the positive feedback.”

Thimo Schwenzfeier — Show Director of Neonyt, Messe Frankfurt

London

24 — 25 July 2019

jacket-required.com

TRADESHOW PREVIEW

JACKET REQUIRED A TRUE COMMUNITY Located in Shoreditch, Jacket Required represents a new definition of UK fashion, with a more urban take on menswear. Added to this is the sense of community that gets stronger with every season. A lot of the visitors and exhibitors have been coming to the show for many seasons and the friendships and connections at Jacket Required are something that you’ll be hard pushed to find elsewhere.

“Jacket Required is an incredible show that I feel proud to be a part of. The exhibiting brands are carefully curated, all committed to quality and craftsmanship, but also bringing their unique identities to the table.”

Martin Arnold — Fashion Portfolio Director of Jacket Required

DENIM PREMIÈRE VISION Milan

28 — 29 May 2019

denimpremierevision.com

NEXT STOP: MILAN After a successful edition in London with over 2,300 visitors, the announcement of Milan as the next stop has been met with great enthusiasm. This enthusiasm will now be passed on to the growing number of selected exhibitors who will bring the next edition of Denim PV to life.

“Milan represents an important choice to us since the city is recognised as a worldwide capital of fashion and has a long history with the denim industry. It even has its own denim ecosystem, developed in the region, offering the opportunity to create synergies with the brands and foster creativity.”

Guglielmo Olearo — International Exhibitions Director at Denim Première Vision

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TRADESHOW PREVIEW

TEXWORLD Paris

16 — 19 September 2019

texworld-paris.fr, messefrankfurt.com

“People often say that they meet brands that they don’t see anywhere else at Texworld and its fellow fairs in Paris: with Apparel Sourcing, Avantex, Leatherworld, Shawls&Scarves and Texworld Denim Paris, we cover every aspect of a fashion collection and our exhibitors can deliver any quantity of every fabric at competitive prices. It’s a great opportunity to find the best solutions for every fashion project. For me, managing the whole Fairyland for Fashion is a fascinating and extremely rewarding experience.”

Michael Scherpe — President of Messe Frankfurt France

A MANUFACTURERS’ MUST We all know that Paris is the capital of fashion – in more ways than one. It’s also a place of business where the Fashion Weeks and the big textile fairs come to a close and where fashion brands finalise their projects. “If you add the organisational skills and the marketing force of a global expert specialised in textile fairs like the Messe Frankfurt group, the result is a business platform that brings together all professionals from all the global fashion industries,” says Michael Scherpe. So it’s no surprise that this tradeshow attracts around 1,000 exhibitors from all over the world and offers a rich variety of products from basics to creative high-end fabrics of an excellent quality.

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Frankfurt am Main

14 — 17 May 2019

TRADESHOW PREVIEW

TEXPROCESS/ TECHTEXTIL texprocess.messefrankfurt.com, techtextil.messefrankfurt.com

FOCUS ON SUSTAINABILITY Tradeshow duo Techtextil and Texprocess take place on the Frankfurt exhibition grounds every two years.

This year, numerous exhibitors will be focusing on sustainable topics in the presentation of their new products and the Techtextil Innovation Award will be highlighting sustainable textile innovations. And with an offshoot of the Fashionsustain conference, the Tex­process Forum will be covering the topic of sustainability in the textile and fashion industry.

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With the special event ‘Urban Living – City of the Future’ in cooperation with Creative Holland, the Dutch creative industries, the two fairs will be presenting a separate themed exhibition space dedicated to life in the city of the future. The area will be presenting the practical uses of a number of innovative textiles. An accompanying line-up of fringe events offers additional industry insights.

And also awaiting visitors to Techtextil and Texprocess is an enormous bandwidth of innovative and sustai­n­ able materials and technologies by leading inter­ national companies.

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GALLERY Düsseldorf

20 — 22 July 2019

gallery-duesseldorf.com

INTERNATIONAL WORLD OF BRANDS With 350 labels from around 15 countries, the showroom concept, which lasts between five and nine days, is a real USP of the threeday Gallery tradeshow at the Areal Böhler in Düsseldorf. Around 50 agencies and premium brands are in attendance at any given time and the interest is growing steadily. In addition, Gallery showcases a further 450 brands from 20 countries with a focus on contemporary, avant-garde and design.

“An international world of brands that appeals to hipsters just as much as to Italian style aficionados, fans of brand-name shoes or lovers of established bag brands. With a current share of 25 percent, shoes and accessories are gaining in significance. Taking place prior to its sister fair Gallery Shoes, Gallery therefore represents an earlier ordering event for shoes and accessories in Düsseldorf.”

GALLERY SHOES Düsseldorf

1 — 3 September 2019

gallery-shoes.com

A EUROPEAN PORT OF CALL “After just four seasons, Gallery Shoes has not only well and truly arrived, but also firmly established itself in the consciousness of the European shoe industry,” confirms a delighted Ulrike Kähler. With 9,800 European visitors and over 550 brands from 20 countries, the young German fair has already proven itself.

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“Our future goals are focused on dynamically further developing the portfolio and gradually expanding the space at the Areal Böhler, along with increasing the internationality of the visitors. We now already have a credible reputation to attract even more European buyers to Düsseldorf in the mid to long-term.”

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Ulrike Kähler — Managing Director of Igedo Company and Project Director of Gallery & Gallery Shoes

Offenbach

7 — 9 September 2019

ilm-offenbach.de

TRADESHOW PREVIEW

ILM SUMMER ST YLES “We steer clear of experiments as it only becomes hard for visitors to keep up. Tradeshows are tiring and also expensive, which is why they need to be efficient and worth everyone’s while.

And that’s what ILM is. We are a fair where you can network and mingle, but our focus lies clearly on the business side of things.”

Arnd Hinrich Kappe — Managing Director of Messe Offenbach

PURELY BUSINESS More than anything, visitors and exhibitors at ILM appreciate the continuity of the leather goods fair. After all, it’s very important to the organisers that they attract highquality exhibitors, who are garnering attention on an international level and enticing new customers. And to make sure the fair is even more informative next September, the daily line-up of fringe events will be expanded further.

BELARUS FASHION WEEK Minsk

10 — 14 April 2019

bfw.by

“As you know, the most promising and relevant trends from the catwalk quickly become bestsellers when they can be quickly adapted for sale. So it’s important to be a prominent player and trendsetter,as well as being the first to dictate the trends.”

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NEWCOMER INSIDER TIP The beginning of the calendar year traditionally coincides with the start of the fashion marathon on all continents, but if you’re looking for upcoming designers, there is one event that should immediately find a spot in your tradeshow calendar: Belarus Fashion Week. This April, the 19th edition will be held at the National Exhibition Centre BelExpo.

Yanina Hancharova — CEO of Belarus Fashion Council

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COMPLETE LOOK CALVIN KLEIN

PHOTOGRAPHY ANNA VATHEUER STYLING MINE ULUDAG HAIR & MAKE-UP ELLEN VAN EXTER

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MODEL VERA AMORES @ UNO MODELS ART DIRECTION SILKE BÜCKER

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CENTRAAL CITY

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CITY

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DRESS ACNE STUDIOS THE OUTNET BLAZER PALLAS PARIS

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SHIRT & DRESS PAUL SMITH EARRING & OTHER STORIES

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KNITTED SWEATER & SKIRT JIL SANDER JEANS LEVI’S SNEAKERS WOOD WOOD

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SWEATSHIRT WEEKDAY PANTS STINE GOYA BOOTS ARKET

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BLOUSE BLANCHE SKIRT UNIQLO BOOTS ARKET

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BLOUSE ARKET SKIRT UNIQLO

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COMPLETE LOOK WRANGLER

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COMPLETE LOOK LEVI’S

CENTRAAL CITY

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BLOUSE WOOD WOOD JACKET & PANTS WEEKDAY

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CENTRAAL CITY

INSIDER OPINION – ASAD SOORTY

A LOVE OF DENIM & THE PLANET What began as a shop in the 1980s has meanwhile become an international player on the denim market with a lot of love for the environment, their employees and their clients. We spoke to Executive Director Asad Soorty about the Pakistani company and found out that one page is just not enough to tell you about everything that makes this manufacturer so exemplary.

INTERVIEW CHERYLL MÜHLEN

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You’re heading this company in the second generation: what has changed most in the market since Soorty started out?

Ten or twenty years ago, suppliers were hard to find and brands weren’t as consolidated as they are now. The supplier-buyer power dynamic was totally different to what it is today. But one of the biggest changes on the market came along with the introduction of new raw materials and technological advancements.

Denim has become an everyday staple and yet even more demanding in the sense that consumers consider denim a huge part of fashion and are now even wanting to learn where their clothes came from, what exactly they are made of, who made them, and what conditions they were made in. At Soorty we believe that transparency is a must. Only by being transparent can we define areas of opportunity and grow and change for the better.

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Soorty has high standards when it comes to social responsibility. How do you live up to that?

Well, we are currently launching our new garment facility which is certified LEED Platinum, a mark of quality and achievement in green building. We are also collaborating with Groasis – a Netherlandsbased technology, which will help us in our mission to reduce our water usage in Karachi using almost no water at all. And Soorty is a longstanding partner of UNDP, working together to create awareness, skills and employment in areas we operate in.

But we also believe in encouraging young people so we sponsor the Soorty Lecture Hall at Habib University. We have a ward at JPMC, Pakistan’s largest hospital, which treats 15,000 patients annually, and Soorty facilities have ongoing blood donation initiatives where between 300 and 400 people give blood monthly, which adds up to Asad Soorty is following in the footsteps of his father Shahid. around 400 bags per month.

That’s impressive. But let’s talk about your goal of an ‘Ultra Green Future’ as it says on your website.

Unfortunately, sustainability has become an over-used term.

The industry needs to find a better way to understand and gauge sustainability. At Soorty, we focus a lot on conserving our water resources, because the water crisis is a very real issue, in our region in particular.

You mentioned it before, but tell us more.

Karachi suffered a heat wave three years ago in which more than 1,000 people died, and two lots of heavy flooding around five years ago, which also displaced millions. So climate change is affecting us directly. Right now. It isn’t about future generations, it’s about us and it’s happening now.

You have quite an impressive portfolio of clients. Why do you think your clients come to you?

We are a global company with local solutions, meaning we have multiple countries of production and offices in the US, Amsterdam, Turkey as well as Bangladesh.

We keep fabric stock in Turkey to serve the European market and offer the full range of services from cutting to packing, including washing. Our R&D facility in Çorlu, Turkey is operated by a team of experts delivering solutions to our customers and giving them the space to experiment with new ideas, developments or prepare custom-made collections. Our business model is based on an extensive understanding of what the market needs.

Speaking of needs: what makes denim so fascinating?

I think denim is the most versatile product in the world – it goes beyond cultures, eras, boundaries. It questions the status quo, breaking conventional ideas of what is and what is not possible; what you can and cannot wear, who you can and cannot be.

The beauty of denim is that it allows each and every single person to express themselves, in their own unique way.

SOORTY.COM

INTERNATIONAL FASHION TRADE SHOW

July 20 – 22, 2019 Showroom Concept July 19 – 23, 2019 INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOW FOR SHOES & ACCESSORIES

AREAL BÖHLER GALLERY-DUESSELDORF.COM

We are international order-oriented trade shows for fashion, shoes and accessories with a mix of young and established brands based in Dusseldorf!

September 1 – 3, 2019

AREAL BÖHLER DÜSSELDORF GALLERY-SHOES.COM

© JOÃO MORGADO

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