J'N'C Magazine 2/2018

No 72 /2-2018

JEANSWEAR & CONTEMPORARY FASHION

No 72 / 2-2018

size matters! expanding the fashion range

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CONNECTING COMMUNITIES

editorial

j'n'c t o p i c s

curves on trend denim makers: fabrics and styles 2019 outdoor meets contemporary fashion

we hope you enjoy the issue, 72

thorsten osterberger & team

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Contributors

fredericke winkler freelance editor/producer the Berlin-based journalist (who specalises in trade press publications) always knows what is happening behind the scenes of the textile industry. for J’n’c she is shedding light on the new approaches and technologies in the quest for fit optimisation – diversity is key!

andres damm J’n’c correspondent tech and the city – our editor met up with hajime ishii at the legendary spring studios in new york. the development expert at chemical company toray talked to him about new and innovative materials it develops for uniqlo and other companies.

hans buttermilch photographer tempo, elle, sZ, Zeit and vogue are just a few of the publications the renowned munich photographer has been working for since the eighties. for J’n’c he set the scene for our current favourite pieces in the “most Wanted” section.

michael mann

diversity is one of the great buzzwords of our time. which explains why it’s also on the agenda for fashion designers, retailers and manufacturers, who are finally facing the fact that traditional sizing simply doesn't take into consideration the infinite variety of human forms. as the leading Us fashion guru tim Gunn rightly states: “Beauty comes in all shapes and sizes”. over the last two years he has been tirelessly repeating his call to action to designers on all media channels to finally move the focus from model sizes to what fashion shoppers really want: clothes they like – and fit properly! our author Fredericke winkler is giving us the lowdown on current market developments and showing how new digital techniques are moving fit optimisation technology forward. another focus of this issue is, of course, denim. the styles by various producers and manufacturers, which we photographed for you in a studio setting, show which fabrics and cuts are on trend at the moment. turkish manufacturer Fashion Point is celebrating its 25th anniversary and opened the doors of its production facility exclusively for us. we also went to visit the cEo of Baykanlar, orhan Baykan, in his new office in Barcelona.

contents 12

editorial

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contents

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Bits & Pieces: neWs on diesel, kings of indigo, pepe Jeans & co.

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most wanted must-haves & favourites

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denimal zoo, p60

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cover

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interview: neW Baykanlar Branch in Barcelona

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publisher epp professional publishing group gmbh liesegangstraße 17 40211 düsseldorf germany tel. +49 (0)211.830 30 fax +49 (0)211.830 32 00

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info@jnc-net.de www.jnc-net.de publishing management nikola köster, kathrin Wimber associate publisher pierre d’aveta

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editorial department chausseestraße 116 10115 Berlin germany editor-in-chief thorsten osterberger t.osterberger@jnc-net.de art director ivo Wojcik chief subeditor cloat gerold editors cheryll mühlen, anna proctor (asst.), Jean-noël teschauer (asst.)

editing assistant nils Jürgens copy editors cloat gerold, galina green contributors andres damm (nyc correspondent), fredericke Winkler photography hans Buttermilch, suzana holtgrave, michael mann, max stürmer, Bernd Wichmann translation galina green, paula hedley www.trendtranslations.de

advertising director pierre d’aveta tel. +49 (0)211.830 31 51 p.daveta@jnc-net.de bank details Btv Bank für tirol und vorarlberg ag iBan de25 7201 2300 0772 8980 00 sWift Btvade61xxx price germany 15.50 eur rest of europe 17.50 eur switzerland 20.00 chf print schaffrath druckmedien, geldern

fashion shoot: fit but you know it feature: 25th anniversary of fashion point

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tradeshows, p70

interviews: four experts on digital sizing solutions

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fit but you know it, p42

photography: suzana holtgrave styling: konstantinos gkoumpetis hair & makeup: yvonne Wengler model: canan

essay: making diversity the norm

fashion shoot: denimal zoo tradeshows: the dates for spring summer 2019

fashion shoot: just stay classy 10 Questions: Business talk With haJime ishii/toray industries

data protection notice in the event that delivery is not possible under the address provided, deutsche post dhl has the right to pass the correct address on to the publishers. the subscriber can appeal against this guideline.

We assume no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, contents, photos, clothing or products. the magazine and all of its contents and images are protected by copyright. the place of business and jurisdiction is in all cases düsseldorf.

logotype: martin steinigen

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bits & pieces

bits pieces raves for braves

text jean-noël teschauer

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ChiLdren of the revoLution

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diesel nicola formichetti has created a collection with a strong focus on denim, leather, outerwear and sweaters. for aW18, diesel is incorporating tokyo’s techno music scene into its designs: acid-pastel colours are paired with stonewashed and bleached vintage denim. the mix of utility wear and tokyo’s extreme streetstyle is a perfect match for diesel’s dark, rock vibe. diesel.com

skinny Lovies

pepe jeans the British label is starting its very own eco-revolution with the new tru-Blu programme: no more chemical washes — instead, the 100% sustainable ice shock technique vaporises co2 and leaves no secondary waste. feel good, look good: the processes — combined with natural ozon gas treatments and new 3d lasers — create washed looks (Wiser Wash) as well as natural effects and indigo contrasts.

kayamara the new womenswear label based in dusseldorf, germany is focusing on denim jeans and jackets as well as trousers. kayamara wants to provide retailers with a growing noos programme and collections that are available at short notice. the on-trend styles with perfect fit and cute details are available for customer friendly mainstream price tags of between 59 to 79 euros. the collections are manufactured in turkey and can be ordered exclusivley from rocas gmbh.

pepejeans.com

kayamara.de

bits & pieces

anerkjendt heritage and streetwear come together in the danish label’s latest collection. retro fabrics like terry, cord and velvet and a colour palette of brown, yellow and purple are definite nods to the seventies. in contrast to this are modern all-over prints, patterns and cuts. our favourite: the water-repellent jackets with magnetic pocket fasteners. anerkjendt.com

two are better than one

seventies jigsaw puzzLe

camel active for the aW 2018 season, german lifestyle brand camel active is releasing a jacket collection in which tonal blocking meets a reduced colour palette of pumpkin, khaki, blue, brown and black. stylish as well as functional: the collection’s signature piece is the two-in-one oversized parka with detachable woollen bodywarmer, ikat print, quilting and teflon coating on the inside. the voluminous silhouette of the parka, which is longer at the front and shorter at the back, is rounded off by a wintry faux fur trim. camelactive.de

nonChaLant in veLvet & siLk timeLess footwear

sofie schnoor established in 2001, the german label is renowned for its clear focus on classic, feminine elements and cool streetstyle. all models are designed and made by sofie schnoor herself. classic Japanese

floral motifs and animal symbols are the main features of the aW18 collection, alongside animal prints and striking lettering. Black, mustard yellow, red and olive dominate in the key materials of velvet, silk, cotton and cowhide.

fateeva the young viennese shoe label by elizaveta fateeva is redefining the term “essentials” for ladies’ and men’s shoes: fateeva, who also creates footwear for the label salvatore ferragamo, really strikes a chord with her designs, appealing to the ongoing demand for timeless design. a clear focus of the label is to outlast the transience of trends. the black and white sneakers and slip-ons — reduced to the essentials — are made in portugal, exclusively with italian leather manufactured especially for fateeva. fateeva.net

sofieschnoor.com

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bits & pieces

nordiC bLoCkbusters tiger of sweden for aW18, the swedish label, which can look back on a company history spanning 115 years, is presenting looks inspired by the swedish film institute — one of scandinavia’s most prominent film institutions. the collection is a homage to the art of cinema with subtle,

playful references: classic menswear elements are deconstructed and shown in a new context. individual bursts of colour brighten up the otherwise monochrome colour palette. uncompromising menswear with plenty of attention to detail and craftsmanship.

tigerofsweden.com

beyond the nine to five nümph the danish design team is presenting loud, feminine looks this season. a mix of different materials and colours dominates the collection. their own flamboyant prints come in intense tones like red, purple, green and brown, with velvet, silk, jersey and faux fur as recurring key materials. striking details serve as eye-catchers to increase brand recognition. the result is laid-back fashion for everyday wear that still looks the part after a long day at work and even cuts quite a dash at the club later on.

unique speCimen

numph.dk

kings of indigo the dutch label is known for tough design, durability and sustainable techniques for producing quality garments. kings of indigo has been working with recycled materials for quite some time now and one third of the current collection is already made from them. their goal: 100% sustainability. proving their point, they are adding the Japanese Boro jacket to its range.

Boro is a technique used by Japanese peasants who used and reused rags to patch their clothing. the Boro Jacket is made from different pairs of old jeans; every piece is both unique and sustainable.

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kingsofindigo.com

Leaps & bounds filling pieces the sneaker brand from holland was founded back in 2009 by young architect guillaume philibert. sculptural and architectural models have been dominating its collections for almost ten years — and quality is always an utmost priority. “innovation is one of our core values and our customised soles are where it all starts,” according to philibert. the brand is a firm fixture in the sneaker segment and available to buy in more than 30 countries. even celebrities like singer zayn malik and model Bella hadid have been spotted wearing the cult shoes. the coolest style from the aW 2018 collection: the “origin low arch runner Blaze camo”. fillingpieces.com

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Visit and discover the denim potential in Turkey!

All key players from Turkish denim industry represent innovations and ready to share their best products at Turkey Lounge in Denim Premiere Vision Show Paris May 2018.

/tffmagazine

/utibsosyal

/tffmagazine

TFF Magazine

Web: www.turkishbluesign.com E-mail: goralm@uib.org.tr

photography hans buttermilch production & text thorsten osterberger

most wanted

J'n'c presents

eyecatchers it-pieces must-haves favourites

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ChiC for every oCCasion

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the danish womenswear label combines a feminine look, scandinavian casualness and affordable styles that keep up with the latest trends. for aw18, mbym is bringing back stirrup pants, a much-loved staple of the 1950s — but made with modern materials in a classic, sporty primary colour palette in blue, red and white. the best thing about their reinterpretation: they go just as well with trendy sneakers as they do with high heels. light, crease-free and the perfect second outfit to take to work with you and change into later, the “francesca” model is the ideal companion for day and night, whether for the office or after-work drinks.

T H E I N N O VA T I V E H U B F O R N E W T E X T I L E T E C H N O LO G I ES

4 TH - 6 TH

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M U N I C H FA B R I C STA R T

W W W . M U N I C H FA B R I C STA R T . C O M

most wanted

samsoe.com

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ride the tiger

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the brand SamsØe & SamsØe from copenhagen keeps on impressing with premium-quality materials and traditional scandinavian designs featuring on-trend details. for aw18, the label is presenting cool street styles, including our favourite: the “verner shirt”, with a pattern inspired by camouflage and animal print in brown, white, black and green tones. and for a head-to-toe look: fans of the pattern, which goes by the name “tiger green”, can also invest in the cap and rucksack.

DENIM TOUCHES EVERYONE SHOW US YOUR HANDPRINT WHILE OUR FOOTPRINT IS W H AT W E TA K E F R O M T H E PLANET WHEN WE CONSUME. O U R H A N D P R I N T I S W H AT W E GIVE THE PLANET BACK WHEN W E C R E AT E C H A N G E F O R B E T T E R AW 2 0 1 9 - 2 0

most wanted

high teCh versus heritage

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peakperformance.com

the urban collection by swedish brand Peak Performance is dynamic and innovative — and, compared to the main collection, perhaps even a touch more progressive. as usual, the focus is on functional, lightweight down parkas that impress with new and innovative materials with unique surface structures, such as a modern wool-look surface. the jackets also have vintage-style lining fabrics. and to match, peak performance has some surprises up its sleeve, including eye-catching, contrasting cricket-style jumpers that will also turn heads off the pitch.

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AMSTERDAM FASHION TRADE EVENT JULY 8–9 2018 MODEFABRIEK.NL

most wanted

superga.de

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itaLian veLvet

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the italian sports shoe brand was established in 1925 and became a cult classic in the 1980s. for aw18, Superga is bringing mainly platform shoes onto the market, or at least shoes with a thicker sole than usual. playful details like velvet laces, oral embroidery, shiny crinkle-effect uppers and sole trims made of braided rafďŹ a are sure to attract envious glances. our fave: model 2730 in velvet chenille with blue velvet uppers and the trademark superga sole made of vulcanised, natural rubber, complete with a three-centimetre wedge.

Kingpins Show Amsterdam April 18 / 19 Hong Kong May 16 / 17 New York June 6 / 7

Kingpins Transformers: Transparency Amsterdam April 17 New York June 5 www.kingpinstransformers.com

www.kingpinsshow.com

Kingpins Trend: F/W 2019 In collaboration with Amy Leverton of Denim Dudes Available online April 18 Daily presentations at all Kingpins Shows

most wanted

lacoste.com

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iConiC CoLLeCtion

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the green crocodile has been adorning the polo shirts of cult label lacoste for an impressive 85 years. the brand has ďŹ rmly established itself as a fashion and lifestyle staple so it’s hardly surprising that for its anniversary this year, the design team is incorporating iconic design elements from its archives into present-day styles. particularly worthy of mention are the silhouettes — especially the loose-cut trouser and jacket models, which are providing the wearer with added freedom of movement. our favour ite is a lovely combination of french elegance with athleisure: the cherry-red cotton dress.

17 – 20 September 2018 Paris Le Bourget A CHAQUE SAISON SON DENIM

www.texworld-paris.com

replayjeans.com

most wanted

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smeLLs Like teen spirit

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very much in the style of the nineties, Replay’s aw18 collection is all about an easy-going, relaxed vibe. logos and stripes on jackets, sweaters and trousers are a nod to the athleisure trend and are also imbuing the range with a younger feel. large check patterns and military elements are giving the otherwise sweet and sporty styles a rougher edge. ladies can pair this with one of the four models from the corduroy trousers line or a pair of comfortable straight-cut jeans made from “touch comfort”, a soft stretch fabric.

SELVEDGE RUN TRADE SHOW FOR QUALITY GARMENTS AND CRAFTED GOODS

THE ES SENCE

N° 07 JULY 03— 05 20 18 PALAIS AM FUNKTURM HAMMARSKJÖLDPLATZ 14055 BERLIN ACCREDITATION AT WWW.SELVEDGERUN.COM

it took a long time for designers to acknowledge that beauty comes in all shapes and sizes. today the era of fashionable and functional clothing that excludes no one has ďŹ nally arrived.

e s s ay

making diversity the norm text fredericke winkler

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Johanna link for thecurvymagazine.com

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W

hat is beautiful? that is the million-dollar question when it comes to fashion and each era comes up with a new answer that differs strongly from that of its predecessors. a long time ago, women dressed in men’s clothing would have caused an outcry, later androgynous silhouettes were all the rage, and then the heroin chic look was en vogue. But they all had one thing in common: the icons were always young, and for the past seventy years they have also been getting thinner and thinner. But those days may be over. today, ashley graham, size 16, is the international top model of the moment; iris apfel is considered a fashion icon at the grand age of 96, and singer Beth ditto, at just 1.58 metres tall and gorgeously curvy, is the face of the latest zalando campaign, europe’s biggest online fashion platform.

should be. sometimes you’re dealing with a rounded bottom, sometimes a beer belly, large breasts, chunky thighs or upper arms. similarly, ageing bodies also have different needs: a stooped posture and a mix of fat deposits and muscle wasting in different places. as if that weren’t enough, both obesity and age can cause the body to function differently: more perspiration or heat buildup, causing friction points in various places. this calls for other methods of finishing and alternative materials. diversity requires a whole lot more in terms of performance.

But it also delivers a whole lot more.

making diversit y the norm

in the past we would look for the lowest common denominator in standardised body proportions, symmetrical faces and youthful perfection, but nowadays it’s diverse, unique bodies and faces that are keeping the fashion world on tenterhooks. this turn of events has unleashed a wave of enthusiasm and activists everywhere are welcoming it as a new platform for non-discrimination. But fashion isn’t really doing anything other than what it’s always done: looking down from its pulpit onto the streets beyond in the fashion capitals of the world, absorbing the crazy sights of real life and bringing them back onto the streets, styled as a trend. But diversity is not a hype or an outlandish trend, but actually a reflection of tangible demographic developments, which also happen to be mass phenomena.

time for a reality check

comfort matters, but the real focus of the aW18 Jack & Jones plus range lies on a sharp look and silhouette

the market for clothing in uk size 14 and above is worth around 22 billion dollars in the united states and this increase comes mainly from the ranks of gen z consumers, born after 1995, which grew by 35% in 2015 alone. in europe, great Britain especially is leading the way: in 2017 the plus-size market there was worth about 6.6 billion pounds sterling, which is equivalent to just under 19% of the total market share. according to an evaluation by priceWaterhousecoopers (pWc), the plus-size segment on the British isles will continue to grow at an aboveaverage rate of around 6%. not only because the proportion of overweight people will most likely rise, but also, because – with access to new body confidence – they will increasingly choose specific plus-size offers, in turn increasing the number of providers. this applies not only to the uk but, according to the pWc study, potentially to a total of 15 markets in the world, with the united states, germany, italy and china leading the way. in short, the global significance of the market is growing and conventional fashion vendors should hurry if they want to play in the top league, otherwise they are going to get left behind. and whether they like it or not, the chances that their customers will develop new needs and demands as part of this development are high. many brands from the most diverse segments are developing their own plus-size lines by now. oscar de la renta and donna karan have one, as do asos and kate hud-

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Beyond the obsession with youth and the infamous size zero is a very different reality: according to a survey by eurostat in 2016, more than half of all adult europeans are overweight, with around 15% weighing in as obese. in the united states, according to statista, close to 40% of adults are obese. according to a study by the un, by 2030 the number of over 60-year olds will rise to 56%, to 1.4 billion, and to at least 23% in europe, especially in the cities. this increase in age is a symptom of prosperity, mainly affecting developed countries. already today, 28% of the population in germany is 60 and older. and according to the un study, they are wealthier, healthier and more active than their peers of previous years. in the united states, the 65+ group is expected to double by 2060 to 98 million. their culture is more diverse, they are educated to a higher level and their wealth is greater. the future institute in frankfurt describes what they have dubbed the ‘silver society’ as not only young at heart but also in a phase of life that did not previously exist. and this new demographic demands high standards when it comes to style and comfort, because their bodies often don’t fit optimally into clothes that use young bodies as templates. mature and wise as they are, the older generation simply don’t see why they should wear clothes that were obviously not made for them. they are also demanding clothes that are easier to move around in, with increased access to digital services. the fashion industry is therefore facing the challenge of a new growing consumer group that it hasn’t had to deal with before – but can no longer overlook due to its volume and purchasing power. so is this newfound enthusiasm for curves simply another marketing strategy? diversity is clearly a business proposition – at least in the case of plus sizes and age-free fashion. however, it is one that poses new challenges for the industry. it all began with easily resolvable problems, like the choice of models in keeping with new beauty ideals, or with new wording and the support of a body-positive initiative. But the next step is more complicated because these new audiences also come with new demands. a curvaceous body has its own proportions that need to be considered in the creation of the cut and grading. and these proportions can’t be standardised because fat doesn’t like to be told where it

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making diversit y the norm grey is great if the size is right: finally more and more brands are discovering the plus-size market for men

son’s sports brand fabletics. german menswear specialist Jack & Jones and sportswear brand nike also recently joined the fray. the plus-size collection violeta by mango stands out with its fabulously beautiful campaigns. and a few weeks ago, h&m sent plus-size model naomi shimada down the runway in paris to present its new studio collection. specialised brands and retailers are developing a whole new image together with their increasingly youthful customers. online retailer “swimsuits for all”, for example, which, as the name suggests, offers beachwear for everybody, has come up with the “survivor” collection, developed with the blog gabifresh, which offers a new take on the hit by destiny’s child. and of course the campaign is extremely proud and sexy.

in 2008, Bahman nedaie and zahir dehnadi from aachen in germany founded an online retail company for plus sizes in the premium segment called navabi. they meanwhile have 150,000 customers from 36 countries; ashley graham describes the store as “one of the best places with the best collections for curvy girls”, while german women’s magazine Brigitte is pleased that the subject is no longer shrouded in embarrassment. the retailer focuses on giving good advice and providing tips on dealing with different body types. their pieces have detailed descriptions, supplemented with precise measurements such as sleeve length and bust size, making it easier for customers to assess the sizes. zalando is also catering for various body types on its uk website and stocks a range of

items beyond size 14 in nearly every category. But unlike navabi, it only uses classic sizing information. german clothing company happy-size takes a plus size as its launching point and then grades downwards. this means they can ensure that the cut meets the requirements and proportions of a more rounded body. a similar problem is being solved by petite labels for women at the other end of the spectrum – because they are smaller than the norm. here too, it isn’t enough to just shorten the leg lengths because the body proportions – so also the back, bottom or shoulder breadth – are different in women with a height of 1.60 metres than standard dimensions. Just like in the case of plus

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B r a n d s t o wat c h

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asos plus

jack & jones

the asos plus brand has been offering plus-size collections for one and a half years now. it offers streetwear that picks up on all the latest trends extremely quickly, making it pretty unique in the plus-size sector. asos is unrivalled when it comes to trendy plus-size menswear. and they also stock other plus-size brands.

the danish label finally launched a collection in larger sizes this year. it’s a damn good feeling knowing that more and more renowned brands are now also discovering the plus-size market. finally a great choice for us men – from sporty to the understated scandi style, it’s all there.

Claus fleissner

men plus by happy size

tommy hilfiger

plus-siZe blogger

men plus, the plus-size menswear brand by happy size, offers plenty of choice. from basics to suits, colourful shirts and polos, knitwear, jackets, coats, trousers and jeans, everything that men with a bit of extra meat on their bones could want! and every season they also release a really cool trend collection.

men will find a large selection of american-style sport and streetwear as well as elegant shirts here. tommy hilfiger has been offering larger sizes for quite some time now. the label’s pieces are usually of a very high quality and relatively timeless. for a great fit that also looks good – you really can’t go wrong!

the frankfurt-based content manager is the founder of the blog extra-inches.de, where he poses as a model himself and gives valuable shopping and styling tips to well-built guys with a few extra pounds.

regardless of the service for the customer and the beneficial effect on the return rate for the retailer, body-scanning technologies have the potential to change the production processes of clothing. instead of fashion being designed, assembled and then distributed for sale, where it may become deadstock due to poor tailoring or the wrong size, the manufacturer could rely on customer and retailer data, utilising it ear-

But even if you aren’t a plus size, every single person has individual proportions – no body is straight off the rack. the online business can help because the goal of minimising the rate of returns happens to coincide with the need to take on the issues of different sizes within the conventional range as well. retailer fabletics, for example, evaluates whether customers regularly buy different sizes to determine whether they need to be adapted or not. digital giant amazon uses reference items to make suggestions for pieces the customers might buy next. in order to do this, the group creates photos and 3d models of its items, an investment that pays off if the return rates are reduced due to the extra investment. the spanish vertical retailer mango has been offering its plus-size line since 2014, which it sells at 100 points of sale: in spain, france, germany, italy, turkey and russia among others. the team behind violeta by mango told us: “We initially had doubts about the product, sizing, patterns, concept store and brand strategy. it was an ambitious project and very different to any we had done before. however, we knew that a lot of women were frustrated because they couldn’t find the right cut and size that were different to the standards created by most brands. We did some market research to gain insights and see if there was potential. and indeed, our suspicions were confirmed. uk Blogger danielle vanier is wearing nike's expanded plus-size collection which ensures perfect fit many customers with curvy and plus sizes expressed an interest in buying fashion that was adapted to their bodies. going shopping lier in the design process. in that scenario, was no fun for them. and they were dedicat- only clothes that really fit and are proving ed to the mango brand so we had to do it!” popular would be manufactured. including the emerging on-demand production technology in this scenario would further digital solutionsa simplify the supply chain. such streamlining would allow room for individual adaptations With the help of a short questionnaire, to the customer. american tech company Bold metrics collects customers’ size data as well as inforthis kind of technology promises cost savmation about their shopping habits and ings, increased efficiency and customer uses the results for individual advice. the satisfaction. But with fashion as a mirror of start-up from san francisco launched its society, a further, very elementary effect technology in 2015 and is currently working could take hold. Because if the industry on bringing body-scan booths to shopping could provide clothing sizes ranging from 4 centres, where customers can have themto 34 as standard, and it’s just the style that selves measured for free. using the data, counts at the end of the day, the next step avatars are created, allowing consumers to surely would be to offer underwear in an try on clothes on the internet, for example equally wide range of sizes and cosmetics from levi’s and g-star. this information is for darker complexions, while men who like also used for adjusting general size systems to wear high heels would find shoes made and to help create new ranges. specifically for them. after all, even once we in london, Bodi.me has launched a similar have overcome our size issues, we are still a concept for the european market and has long way off from catering to the demands already been able to convince brands and of true diversity. diversity certainly does deretailers like forever21, only, vero moda, mand a lot of performance. But also delivers emporio armani and alpha industries to use their technology. in the future it will be a whole lot of performance in return.

making diversit y the norm

melanie-jasmin jeske pr-expert

as @melodie_michelberger, the journalist has 28.5 k followers on instagram, who appreciate her contagiously upbeat attitude just as much as her commitment to trust the girls, the opinion platform she established for “feminist issues, gender diversity, empowerment and very simply: love”.

closed great jeans in different styles and washes, from high-waisted to skinny, up to uk size 18 (european size 46) – my top find of the year because the washes by closed are simply the best! and on top of that, the jeans are made in a fair and environmentally friendly way in italy.

rodebjer i love colourful fluttery dresses. the swedish label by designer carin rodebjer simply makes the best ones, even up to size xl. the styles are often so oversized and casual that i can fit into uk size 14 (european size 42) or m. i also love the silk kaftans that look great paired with jeans.

phylyda a swimwear label that makes bikinis in sizes up to uk size 26 (european size 54) that are also made in europe by a fairtrade manufacturer? yes, it does exist! phylyda celebrates femininity and all women – regardless of their dress size! i love the brightly coloured bikinias by this Berlin label. the fit is unbeatable as the pieces come in underwear sizes and you can buy them as separates. luxurious and fashionable swimwear for all women – i love it!

marina rinaldi marina rinaldi’s “persona” collection has a lot of beautifully tailored everyday dresses made of highquality fabrics with plenty of room for movement.

heist tights from heist up to uk size 26 (european size 54) – you really won’t find a better fit: they stay where they’re supposed to, above your stomach, all day long. they don’t annoy you by sliding down or gradually rolling down (which really drives me crazy!) and due to the super wide and ultra-comfortable waistband, the tights don’t dig in either. as i pretty much only wear dresses, i’ve tried all kinds of tights from all brands, but nothing compares to these ones.

the nude label i prefer to wear uncomplicated cotton underwear; the designs by the nude label come in lovely modern colours and are fairly produced in spain.

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Jack & Jones; david nescholta for kult; iga droBisz

but will it fit?

possible to use Bodi.me to track your own body measurements and align them with fitness apps. german provider human solutions offers the body-scan method under the name isize and combines customer data with countryspecific serial measurements in order to give brands information about how well their cuts and size systems fit their customers. especially for ‘best-agers’, brands like Walbusch, a client of human solutions, this kind of reality check is an important basis for adaptation.

B r a n d s t o wat c h

sizes, vertical retailers such as asos and topshop are the first commercial providers of such special sizes. Which is a pretty amazing turn of events when you consider that companies who built their success on standardisation are now diversifying their sizes instead. for British company dorothy perkins, the variety of feminine shapes has been a topic since 1998 when they introduced their first petite collection. in 2012, a cooperation with the kardashians created quite a stir, firmly putting the media spotlight on the female posterior. their first plus-size line followed in 2016.

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fa s h i o n & l i f e s t y l e d e s i g n e r

intervieWs By thorsten osterberger cloat gerold

interviews

michael michalsky

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fashion gurus like tim gunn have been complaining for years that designers aren’t willing to respond to the actual size needs of interested customers. what motivated you to bring out a plus size collection in cooperation with happy size? many people still see plus sizes as a special fashion category. But i always ask myself: who decided that plus sizes have to come in subdued colours and baggy styles? With my 7days collection i wanted to create stylish

pieces for any occasion. happy size is the right partner for that. they understand that the secret to beautiful plus-size looks is good tailoring and emphasising the silhouette. why do so many designers refuse to serve the “regular” market? what’s your take on plus sizes? fashion’s purpose is to underline the character of the wearer — regardless of the dress size. i think we need to put an end to this compartmentalised way of thinking. please describe your approach in the creation of the plus-size atelier michalsky collection ... fashion should be high-quality, stylish and contemporary. these attributes are the focus of all my collections. Whether for happy size or for my haute couture line, i want to dress people in a beautiful and modern way.

which different textiles and materials were used for the plus-size collection? exceptional and luxurious fabrics are, of course, at the focus of the haute couture collection. you can’t compare it with a readyto-wear collection. for my happy size 7days collection i ensured that we designed items to flatter curves and use high-quality materials that hang well, instead of adding bulk. how did you deal with the topic of plus sizes visually? the main thing was to avoid black (laughing). i wanted to meet the customers’ fashion demands and avoid boring looks, instead creating fantastic, unique pieces with a trendy feel. could you imagine expanding your high fashion collections to include larger sizes? of course! i love creative challenges.

agency BaBirad picture / schraps

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With his 7days collection for happy size the german fashion designer embraces the customers’ demand for trendy plus-size pieces.

interviews

carola niemann

f o u n d e r & e d i t o r - i n - c hi e f t hec urv ym ag a z ine. c o m

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what made you come up with the curvy magazine format? it’s high time we started showing plus-size fashion in an appealing and high-quality way. We want to encourage young women to embrace their curviness. the image of women in the media is simply too one-sided and doesn’t reflect reality. We want to change that with the curvy Magazine.

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what is your philosophy? ‘celebrate the difference’ and ‘fashion and style for everyone’.

how is curvy fashion different from plus-size fashion? there’s no real difference if you ask me. But curvy collections often only offer sizes up to uk 16, meaning that curvy women have to turn to plus-size labels to find something that fits. there’s often a distinct lack of sex appeal in plus-size fashion... size doesn’t influence sex appeal for me — regardless of the magazine and models i’m working with. curvy women can be sexy

too. that’s why i want to clearly depict the sensuality of every woman as if it’s a given. how do you see the market developing in this segment? it’s all very positive at the moment and the market is well on the way to changing. But in my opinion, more brands could get on board. after all, curvy women should be able to decide where they spend their money, but they are being told by the current market that their only option is

plus-size labels. curvy women want to look just as fashionable, also in the high-priced segment and, above all, with the same brands as their slimmer friends. i think the brands have understood that by now. i just hope that curvy women are offered the same opportunity to express their taste individually. what could curvy brands still improve?

We don’t need to worry about the fit — curvy brands don’t exclude anyone. But the designs are sometimes a bit old-fashioned. they could be a lot more modern and fresher. and, above all, of a higher quality as far as the materials are concerned.

Ben lamBerty

in 2017 carola niemann launched germany’s first online platform for women with curves and plus-size figures. the curvy magazine will also be available in a print edition from may 2018.

interviews

alexander beckold

c o u n t ry s a l e s m a n a g e r jac k & j one s

what was it that made you launch a plussize range in addition to your existing collection at this point in time?

We saw a rising demand in the market that we needed to explore as a natural development of our business. We learned that if you are a plus-size guy, it can be difficult to find cool on-trend clothes that fit your body type. We do not create specific plussize collections — we simply just expanded our current, well-known collections into a broader size range to meet this demand. furthermore, we saw a good business case. it makes sense to us to accommodate a market demand and still offer what we do best;

create good on-trend quality products at a reasonable price. what are the advantages of a plus-size line?

We meet market demands. it is a way of showing that Jack & Jones is for all young men, no matter the size. you worked closely together with hirmer on the plus-size range. what challenges did you have to face? the collection was already there. every product was designed, created and fitted up to a size xl, so the challenge for us was the sizes and the graduation of the size scheme. concerning the specific fittings and size measurements we turned to hirmer. We started out by listening and learning from them and their experiences and expertise as one of the german market leaders within the plus-size fashion. We adopted the “do’s

and don’ts” and joined forces. We have been working closely with them for about a year to get this absolutely right. what silhouettes does jack & jones plus focus on?

We’ve learned that the demand in the market is on our current collection — only in bigger sizes. We have made a choice not to distinguish the plus-size collection from our current collections and silhouettes. have you received any feedback yet from customers about the new collection?

We got excellent feedback. We were very curious as to if we got the fitting right — since that was one of the main focuses for us. But we’ve learned that the effort and preparation we put in to this payed of. even the model we used for our first shoot wanted to take all the items home with him.

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Jack & Jones is now meeting market demands with a plus-size range.

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interviews

dr michael baurschmid

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manager ta i l o r i t

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the digital revolution is well and truly upon us. what developments do you predict for the near future? the shopping experience is moving away from individual bespoke tailoring or 3d body scans and towards digital communication. via a mobile app, the customer sends several personal measurements and corresponding body photos as well as images of desired clothing items to the system. Based on comprehensive data collections and artificial intelligence technologies such as machine learning in particular and image recognition, these systems can predict body measurements and approximate the size with corresponding garments. these solutions are usually used

tailorit offers brands and retailers a platform to flexibly optimise, using digital techniques and providing their customers with perfect fitting solutions. in the online shop or in the app of the retailer or provider. there are also solutions via mobile app from true fit, stitch fix, curvetips, mysizeid or Bold metrics, for example. what techniques should retailers invest in if they only have a limited budget? hardware solutions such as 3d scanners take up space on the shop floor and have to meet the requirements of the store

design. they only make sense if a customised product is being made with the measurement details or if the product can be individualised, e.g. the internal shape of a (ski) boot or tailormade shirts or suits. software solutions like size or fit recommendation systems would be the more practical approach for a retailer with a limited budget and usually more user-friendly. the costs of a software solution are usually lower

than having to make huge investments in a number of stores. which labels and retailers are at the forefront of innovation and are already working with these new techniques? stitch fix is a pioneer in the use of algorithms for determining sizes and amazon has positioned itself with the purchase of Body labs. there are offers from outfittery with pop-up scanners in train stations and airports or in stationary retail. the experience store exp37, initiated by tailorit, shows how the solution of curvetips can be used in order to offer the customer suitable product suggestions based on their individual figure and size.

INTERNATIONAL FASHION TRADE SHOW

July 21 – 23, 2018 GALLERY-DUESSELDORF.COM

INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOW FOR SHOES & ACCESSORIES

September 2 – 4, 2018 GALLERY-SHOES.COM

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photo g r a ph y

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fit

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konstantinos gkoumpetis h a ir & m a ke up

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shirt Fred Perry Je ans marina rinaldi@navabi.de

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c lot h i n g Fashionlable

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swe atshirt P.e nation trousers levi’s Jacke t kings oF indigo socks adidas boots dr martens

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Jacke t cheaP monday top Puma x soPhia Webster shorts Wrangler hip-bag nico sutor

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polo Fred Perry x amy Winehouse Foundation Jacke t P.e nation trousers kings oF indigo sne akers nike

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shirt Pe nation trousers levi’s Jacke t kings oF indigo socks adidas shoes dr. martens

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dres s vivetta Jacke t P.e nation

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dres s ganni belt Weekday

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Jacke t a.P.c. poloshirt calvin klein jeans skirt ashley graham x marina rinaldi

shirt Fila Jacke t c.P. comPany trousers ellesse sne akers reebok bag ellesse socks stance slides Puma

f e a t u r e fa s h i o n p o i n t

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the turkish denim manufacturer fashion point is celebrating 25 years of expertise

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fashion point

as we reach the golden age of the denim trend, its downsides are also becoming apparent. Jeans production is responsible for some of the greatest environmental damage the fashion industry is currently creating. now it’s up to the manufacturers to put their skills to the test. as a leading textile company, turkish manufacturer fashion point aims to meet the demanding requirements and manifest respect for the environment and its employees in all processes and institutions as a fundamental principle.

keeping up with the times: fashion point founder teoman ademogullari

text cheryll mühlen photography bernd wichmann

tee the complete satisfaction of its customers, they need to offer more than flawless goods and health and safety. the demand for sustainable and fair production processes is a growing market segment. thanks to an innovative research and development centre, which is continuously evolving in the fields of science and technology, fashion point can respond to desires and needs in terms of social responsibility. in monthly cycles, the team works on new fabrics, styles and washing methods. a special dyeing technique and organicwash product line, which is maintained with a flexible production and quality management system, is also standard at fashion point. and they are always looking for the most efficient use of natural resources in the context of sustainability.

they want to ensure that only environmentally friendly materials are used, and that the waste that is generated does not harm the environment. their company treatment system ensures the latter. fashion point is convinced that quality and success can be achieved with a strategic management system and an understanding of social responsibility. and they have plenty of proof that they take the issues of sustainability and fair trade seriously: fashion point is monitored and certified by the Bsci (Business social compliance initiative), sedex (enabling responsible supply chains), reach (registration, evaluation, authorisation and restriction of chemicals) and gots (global organic textile standards). in short: fashion point is a company working for a better future.

about fashion point fashion point tekstil Üretim a. Ş was founded in 1993 in istanbul, by teoman ademogullari. a lot has changed in the world of fashion since then. ademogullari is well aware of that, which is why he is continuously adapting the company’s working methods in line with contemporary standards together with his team, in the interests of the needs of the present and the future. after all, fashion point aspires to become the preferred manufacturer and solutions partner for its customers — both nationally and internationally.

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s

ince it was established in 1993, fashion point has increased its production capacity to 400,000 units per month. to cope with this enormous number, around 1,000 employees work on a total area of 20,000 m² at three fully connected in-house production facilities. their philosophy is based on development and innovation. the company considers it both an obligation and motivating factor to constantly keep improving in all areas. accordingly, flawless production and delivery to the customer are the top priority.

But in addition to impeccable quality goods, the istanbulbased company attaches great importance to the safety of its employees. goggles, gloves, masks, plastic boots and other safety measures are therefore a must. But to be able to guaran-

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fashion point all for one: the company’s main staff has been together for decades. f.l.t.r.: Özlem pektas, ismail karademir and teoman ademogullari

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photography bernd wichmann

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passion from day one: in order to keep on top of the market in terms of innovations, more than 50 people from different disciplines and countries are working together to ensure the company’s future in corporate-wide resarch & development processes.

“quality and success can be achieved with a strategic management system and an understanding of social responsibility.”

fashion point

thanks to the apropriate investments in new generation production processes for “sustainability” it is now possible to decrease the water and chemical consumption for denim washes dramatically.

acta non verba: With 800 employees located in five different production facilities in turkey, 350,000 pieces per month are transformed from the idea to the product

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humans first: creating social compliance activities since the beginning, the audit processes at fashion point have been in use for more than a decade

“we are always looking for the most efficient use of natural resources in the context of sustainability. fashion point is a company working for a better future.”

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in t e rv ie w b ay k a nl a r

hola beautiful barcelona With its 20th anniversary and the opening of a new showroom in Barcelona, the denim manufacturer Baykanlar has its sights set firmly on the future. We met up with the company’s sales & marketing manager meserret ok and ceo orhan Baykan at their new office for a chat. report pierre d’aveta photography bernd wichmann text cheryll mühlen

e

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baykanlar Baykanlar tekstil is a global leading denim manufacturer. established in 1998, the company strongly believes in the significance of innovation, sustainability and social compliance. for our interview we met up with Baykanlar general manager orhan Baykan and sales & marketing manager Meserret ok.

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stablished in 1998, Baykanlar has since managed to grow into one of the world’s leading denim manufacturers with the aim of producing designs that represent the inspirational interests and lifestyles of their brands.

But beyond that, Baykanlar’s understanding of service is what differentiates them from the competitors. their new showroom, in the centre of Barcelona, is not only closer geographically for their european clients, but also a strategically smart move in terms of politics. why did you decide to establish an office in barcelona? m e s e rre t: We wanted to provide a fast service to our customers and have a place that everyone can reach easily. Barcelona as a location seemed not only logical but also easy. We have customers all over europe and the

united states and we believe that Barcelona is always worth a visit for everyone. did you also consider other countries? m e s er r e t: We looked at different offices in different places but Barcelona and especially this beautiful spacious apartment really has an amazing atmosphere. this office is not only very large but also has lots of rooms. i think it would be quite difficult to find such a good location in another country. o rh a n: We also wanted our customers to feel more like friends than clients when they visit us. m e s er r e t: that’s right. a place where you can have a good time. and here it seems like we had everything: a great place, great food, great weather. o rh a n: oh yes, with our Barcelona showroom we want to change our customers’ moods.

what does that mean? m e s err e t: We want whoever comes here — especially from nordic countries where the weather is not so nice — to feel a little bit happier and relaxed by the time they leave. you already mentioned it briefly, but were the fact that the country’s travel connections are better also a reason for launching an office in spain? o r h a n: yes, for people coming from sweden, germany or other european countries, it’s faster to fly to spain than to turkey. so what are your hopes and expectations for the new office in barcelona? o r h a n: We’re not expecting too much from this office in a specific way, but if it means that we are connecting more with our customers, we will be able to grow a lot.

let’s talk about another occasion: you’re also celebrating your company’s 20th anniversary. reflecting on those two decades, where is baykanlar headed? m e s e rre t: We are basically in our twenties, which i think is a very good point to be at. But we also want to learn more and use the given technologies so this year we are working on becoming a more sustainable company. o rh a n: But i want to emphasise

that we are not using sustainability for our marketing. We will be as sustainable as possible and make it a company principle. m e s e rre t: yes, that’s true. it’s not a marketing tool. We are applying it as a principle, starting from this year and we will implement it in our collections, our fabrics, our production; everywhere. We will use less water, less chemicals and will have state-of-theart technologies and machines to help us do that.

capacity-driven. We grow our capacity according to the market’s needs. But we are focused on design, innovation and technology. i am proud to say that.

done today to get our businesses ready in time.

what things exactly? o rh a n: the aim of yesterday’s principles was to increase profit and what is your most important and shareholder value, but they market in europe? ignored day-to-day operations. so today, a compelling and highm e s e rre t: every market is imporimpact purpose that teams can tant. We can’t specify one. We get enthusiastic about is key. it is built a company and a set-up where everyone is important. We evident that the pace of change doesn’t slow down and will conhave different teams who take care of the different markets, but tinue to accelerate well into the we don’t differentiate. of course, future. our company needs to be sustainability is a tricky business some are bigger compared to more agile, more open and willothers, but we also learn some– what is baykanlar’s primary ing to learn, and we also need to focus? saving water, energy, rethink our focus on the future thing from each and every one. chemicals, or are you more versus the present. so only by social-driven with employees? embracing inclusion and creating what will the future bring? a true level playing field for evo rh a n: our employees always o rh a n: nobody knows what eryone can a company connect come first. then water and our tomorrow will bring – especially and adapt to all the diversity in third priority is saving energy. in terms of globalisation, digital today’s global marketplace and technology, or demographic keep up with the changes. it’s just sustainability aside: are you shifts, but most people agree more capacity or design-driven? that certain elements are already like surfing — you need to stay on top of the wave! obvious, and things must be m e s e rre t: Baykanlar is never

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what do you mean by saying you “are not expecting too much”? m e s e rre t: it means that we don’t expect to gain new customers or grow our quantities or capacities, but we want to provide them with a better service. When they come here to create their designs, they can use all the rooms. they can lie down on the floor, design and paint — whatever they want. they can literally feel at home.

bayk anl ar

all in the family With their spacious new office in Barcelona near the plaça de catalunya, Baykanlar have created a cosy and beautiful place for customers to relax and feel at home

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her: top Fred Perry Je ans & belt baykanlar sne akers reebok him: Jacke t & Je ans baykanlar gile t aeance

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Jacke t c.P. comPany Je ans candiani sne akers reebok

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him: windbre aker uniQlo Je ans bossa sne akers reebok her: windbre aker uniQlo Je ans bossa sne akers Puma

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denim coat candiani hoodie asos swe atpants c.P. comPany

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model s leonie otto @ iZ a io & paul krause @ m4 / m a sks @wintercroF t m a de by maren

Jacke t & Je ans u.s. denim sne akers reebok

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tradeshows

ss 2019

text cheryll mühlen anna proctor

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premium 5 — 8 july 2018

get the full picture

usp: brand power and lifestyle station berlin luckenwalder strasse 4-6 10963 berlin premiumexhibitions.com

leadership, brand power and a relaxed working atmosphere are the key elements of the premium tradeshow.

Berlin calling! in July, the premium will welcome the entire international fashion industry. over the years it has made a name for itself as both the most important business platform for contemporary fashion and the leading international trade fair for womenswear, menswear, shoes and accessories – always powered by the three “cs”: content, commerce and community. content in particular plays an essential role for the organis-

ers. that’s why the premium team attaches such importance to storytelling. the individual brands are investing heavily in their own brand and appearance to present trends in their best light and convey the story behind them. another important part of premium’s portfolio includes the new collections as well as the up-and-coming talent and creativity of emerging designers.

With new concepts, innovative projects and a total of around

1,000 brands, the fashion tradeshow is continually presenting itself to buyers as a place for networking, emotion, inspiration and innovation. the fashion department store concept at show&order in the kühlhaus venue will be complementing the wide range of brands and diverse themes. the ‘reallife example’ next door replicates a creative concept store over six floors, all named after international fashion capitals.

berlin

down by the river seek 5 — 8 july 2018 usp: streetwear meets skateboarding meets boardsports arena berlin eichenstrasse 4 12435 berlin seekexhibitions.com

seek stands for fairness, clarity and honesty, coupled with contemporary trends.

the trade union will be returning, as well as the showrooms and seek houses. the trade union section was introduced last season to keep the ordering process relaxed for everyone involved. the idea behind it is that various labels join forces in one area to present their products in a unified way, bringing new faces onto the scene as well as new

concepts. the motto for the organisers is to maintain the characteristics of the seek brand, while always looking to improve and move with the times. in this way, new partnerships and approaches are invested in every season, ensuring that the tradeshow remains an exclusive highlight of Berlin fashion Week – and of the summer season.

bright 5 — 8 july 2018 usp: brands represent authentic subcultures arena berlin am flutgraben 12435 berlin bright tradeshow.com

new design talents and skateboarding brands come together at Bright, which is always full of surprises. calling all profashionals! the Bright tradeshow is going into its next round under the title: member of the Bright Brigade. and now under new management – after marco aslim and thomas martini stepped down earlier this year, handing over completely to the premium group – the motto of the next summer edition is ‘Bright future’. visitors can look forward to innovative collaborations, progressive styles and inspiring creations in the ‘skateboarding’

bright, brighter, brightest and ‘street culture’ segments. a new feature is the integration of a B2c format that allows more direct communication, providing a touchpoint for the brands and consumers in an authentic atmosphere. at the same time, every new Bright event always has plenty of surprises up its sleeve. the ‘new’ Bright team has a very clear vision of the future: first of all the spirit of the community should be boosted and innovations further developed. they also plan to work closely with their sister tradeshow, seek, ensuring forward-looking ideas and concepts that will boost momentum and authenticity.

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the seek team has come up with a great all-round wellness package. from the giveaways down to the ‘Badeschiff’ – the outside area of the seek and Bright. the new, enlarged outdoor area offers an interactive and inspiring exhibition area for brands and visitors, with a view of the river spree and the cityscape on the opposite bank.

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summer is getting closer, which means that the summer edition of seek is almost upon us too. under the title ‘destination’, the tradeshow is bringing the holiday vibe to Berlin. twice a year the international fashion industry meets up in the heart of the german capital to discover the latest fashion trends at seek, as well as explore the local bars, restaurants and clubs. to ensure that this business trip turns into a real holiday event,

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berlin

season kickoff in berlin

tradeshows

as the prelude event to the new season, panorama Berlin offers a large range of relevant brands presenting everything from womenswear and menswear, outerwear, denim, shoes and accessories down to selected lifestyle items.

panorama 3 — 5 july 2018

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usp: the market place for fashion & lifestyle messe berlin jafféstrasse 14055 berlin panorama-berlin.com

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panorama Berlin is not only one of the most influential fashion fairs on the german market, but as the kickoff event also heralds the start of the new ordering season. the focus of the previous edition was ‘shaping identities’ – a call to the industry to position itself on the market with clear statements and strong presentations. this concept will be extended for the coming summer edition to expand on the idea of community. the aim is for the industry and retailers to come together to facilitate a faster exchange of ideas and to spark discussions. in addition to the usual overview of trends and upcoming collections of future seasons, the organisers are also offering interesting presentations, get-togethers and lectures

to round off the overall package. awaiting the professional visitors are also some relatively new formats, including the xoom hall for sustainable fashion. “in January we celebrated the successful premiere of xoom. at the first event more than 40 innatex brands showcased their products for international buyers and impressed countless new customers with their collections. it was an extremely successful start. the talks with exhibitors, buyers and partners encouraged us to further develop the cooperation together with panorama Berlin from this summer,” says alexander hitzel, project manager of xoom. not only the sustainable exhibitors will be given more space to show their collections, but also the nova hall: the new nova

court will give the current athleisure and fashion sports trend its own area. another new addition is the ‘retail solutions’ section, where service providers can support fashion retailers with their ideas: from simple-touse digital solutions to franchising and gastro formats for the shop floor down to merchandising and retail branding.

Jörg Wichmann, the ceo of panorama Berlin, is satisfied with the past season and looking forward to what the summer edition will bring: “the increase in the number of international buyers, the enthusiasm of the visitors and the lively exchange among customers and exhibitors are once again proving how important panorama Berlin is as a leading fair and the best way to kick off the new season.”

usp: craft and heritage brands palais am funkturm hammarskjöldplatz 14055 berlin selvedgerun.com

it’s always more fun in a crowd. and if the continuation of their cooperation with panorama Berlin is anything to go by, selvedge run agrees with this statement — but the two fairs will no longer be taking place right next to each other. under the motto ‘the essence’, at the beginning of July over 100 brands from all over the world will be presenting around 1,000 expected visitors with an extensive spectrum of collections in the new venue: the palais im funkturm. But no need to worry — the marshall haus might have just been a stone’s throw away from panorama, but the new venue is just a fiveminute drive from messedamm Berlin and easy to reach by bus (or shuttle service) and rail, but also by taxi. if the weather is good, you could even walk from

berlin / offenbach

one venue to the other. and the journey there is definitely worth your while. at the previous edition, selvedge run impressed with a unique selection of brands and excellent customer service. this is why there will once again be a shuttle and luggage service, as well as a roundthe-clock service for exhibitors and visitors.

taking care of business

the organisers are optimistic about the future of the selvedge run trade show and expecting organic growth and optimised flow for visitors and exhibitors. after all, just like the fashion industry, the trade fair landscape is undergoing a period of intense change, which is being welcomed by exhibitors and visitors alike.

i.l.m offenbach 1 — 3 september 2018 usp: traditional condensed order platform with a laid-back atmosphere messe offenbach kaiserstrasse 108 — 112 63065 offenbach am main ilm-offenbach.de

the number of german retailers decreased, the organisers were happy about their newfound international relevance. for buyers from europe, as well as the ilm international leather america, asia and the far and goods fair is the place to be for middle east, ilm has become an the bags, accessories and lugimportant date on the calendar. gage industry. even in its 148th “many international companies edition, its success is continuhave been coming to offenbach ing unabated, meaning that the for several seasons now. that is organisers have been able to further develop their position as testimony to the quality and siga leading fair. their ethos: order- nificance of our event,” explains ing comes first! ilm therefore arnd hinrich kappe, managing also sees itself as much more director of messe offenbach. of a classic tradeshow for doing the focus continues to be on the business — extras like fashion ordering, which is what ilm is all shows and discussions take more about. But the fair is still planof a back seat here. ning on optimising and expandthe last edition this march ing its mix of exhibitors. the was attended by around 6,000 constant development of their visitors and 300 exhibitors, with website and presence in social an increase in the number of media is also part of the develinternational buyers. although opment strategy. a leading business-oriented fair that attracts international buyers.

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selvedge run 3 — 5 july 2018

selvedge run is all about a great working atmosphere, good customer service and a handpicked selection of high-quality brands from all over the world.

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it’s all about quality

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düsseldorf

gallery 21 — 23 july 2018 usp: an international hub in düsseldorf during the cpd order areal böhler hansaallee 321 40549 düsseldorf gallery-düsseldorf.de

develop the showroom concept and keep enhancing the exhibitor portfolio in order to stay internationally relevant: these are just two of the goals that düsseldorf tradeshow gallery sets itself with every edition to ensure it maintains its international standing. With more than 800 international brands from around 25 countries and approximately 6,000 professional european buyers, gallery is firmly on course for success and has also been able to impress visitors with its fashion shows and events by platform fashion. “the feedback and approval we

have been receiving show the importance of this event, which has become a real feather in düsseldorf’s cap. and it’s also a great usp for gallery,” explains ulrike kähler, project director of gallery & gallery shoes/managing director of igedo company. “the use of the location as a temporary showroom and therefore an order base for seasonal orders is in keeping with our aim of offering market-oriented concepts. We’re particularly delighted that more and more brands are exhibiting at both gallery and gallery shoes.” for the next edition the organisers are working on extending the showroom concept, adding promising newcomers and additional brands.

from 17 countries to place and partly also finalise their seasonal orders.” that is also reflected in the visitor numbers: around 9,800 professional visitors were in attendance and ensured that plenty of orders were placed. “the future of trade fairs in general depends on many factors.

But for our platform we can say that the best possible service, flexibility, advanced concepts and changes to the schedule

are definitely paying off and also bode well for the future,” concludes kähler.

But there’s no time for the organisers to stop and rest on their laurels because as soon as one edition ends, preparations start for the next. exciting side events, outstanding collections and culinary specialities will once again be on the agenda – further evidence that gallery is working hard on adding to its newly acquired appeal.

a tradeshow with an international approach in a modern industrial setting.

game, set, match gallery shoes 2 — 4 september 2018 usp: europe's only shoe fair with such a modern stylish format areal böhler hansaallee 321 40549 düsseldorf gallery-shoes.com

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tradeshows

a unique brand portfolio showcased against the industrialstyle backdrop of areal Böhler

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düsseldorf tradeshow gallery shoes needs more space. the second edition of the show and accessories fair, which was launched in august 2017, has proven that the shoe industry is very much at home at this newly created order platform at areal Böhler. the outlook for the third edition at the beginning of september is certainly bright. “the european shoe industry is

showing its approval of the new platform and taking it seriously with a view to a shared future,” says ulrike kähler, managing director of igedo company and project director of gallery shoes. “the curated concept, contemporary vibe in the halls and the expertise and concentration of labels in the individual zones have all proven popular. retailers are making the most of the presence of more than 500 brands and over 350 exhibitors

global meeting hub

munich

the fashion industry is currently facing a number of challenges without any clear solutions in sight. all the more reason for munich fabric start to provide a networking platform to pave the way for interactions, discussions and partnerships and provide inspiration and responses to market-relevant questions and the latest developments. smart textiles, biotech, digitalisation, future fabrics and sustainability are just a few of the topics that exhibitors will be shedding light on in the ‘key-

house’. also taking place are various showcases, ‘sustainability innovations’ and the popular ‘organicselection’, which provides in-depth information on the latest developments in the field of future-proof, sustainable textiles. as well as the many opportunities to interact and discuss a varied range of topics, the lineup also includes expert panels, roundtables in the Bluezone’s denim club as well as trend seminars. But the real highlight of munich fabric start will be the

product developments and new collections of the 1,000+ exhibitors for the aW 19 season. the adjoining Bluezone with more than 100 significant brands is one of the world’s biggest denim and sportswear shows, representing the interests of the market and the brands. the organisers are expecting a lot of new suppliers, guaranteeing a wide portfolio of innovative product developments. the tradeshow has done its homework with indepth trend research in order to create a perfect mix of internationally renowned companies and creative start-ups showcasing niche products or experimental product ideas. it also ensures a high standard of services with the goal of creating the best possible platform for efficient working.

munich fabric start & bluezone 4 — 6 september 2018 usp: one of the biggest textile tradeshows zenith halle & kesselhaus lilienthalallee 29 80939 munich

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munich fabric start impresses with its unique, incomparable flair and exciting showcases. denim is widely featured in the Blue zone by more than 100 brands as well as in panels and trend seminars in the denim club.

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paving the way for a bright future of fashion

munichfabricstart.com

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berlin

green showroom 3 — 5 july 2018 usp: berlin’s most important green fashion fair kraftwerk berlin köpenicker strasse 70 10179 berlin

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greenshowroom.com ethicalfashionshowberlin.com

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this July, the german capital will once again be showing itself from its greenest side and inviting visitors to the greenshowroom and ethical fashion show at kraftwerk Berlin. together with the two conference formats fashionsustain and #fashiontech, organised by the premium group, they are important meeting places for international buyers, media and influencers. the exhibitor portfolio includes everything from contemporary street and urbanwear to straight-up high fashion and, alongside more established names, also showcases young designer labels like Jeckybeng, kuyichi, graciela huam, rakha, re;code and stinne g‚orell. at the last edition the organisers had a whole host of items on the agenda including seminars, workshops, guided infotainment tours and networking events. the aim is to give visitors an all-encompassing overview of the sustainability industry. another attraction is prepeek by fashion changers, which is establishing itself at the fairs as a highly successful platform specially for bloggers, youtubers and instagrammers. With more than 300 bloggers and influencers in attendance, the third edition was a huge success. in a separate blogger lounge with stylists, influencers can pick out individual garments from the collections, capture them on camera during photo shoots and post about them on their social media channels. that’s one way that the ethical fashion show Berlin is opening up the channels to the end consumers for its exhibitors. and the premiere of the fashionsustain conference organised by messe frankfurt also exceeded the organiser’s expectations.

“With our new fashionsustain conference format and the cooperation with the premium group and their #fashiontech conference and exhibitions, we have found the perfect partner with whom to transform kraftwerk into the most happening hub for the future of fashion,”

greenhouse berlin the german capital is showing itself from its greenest side with topics like sustainability, ethical production and future technologies. explained olaf schmidt, vice president of textiles and textile technologies at messe frankfurt. parallel to the two conferences, a two-day thinkathon focused on the ‘fabric of the future’, with around 30 interna-

tional masterminds and forward thinkers from various scientific, economic and creative fields working on two industry tasks initiated by zalando and the fashion council germany. so for the next edition, visitors

can again look forward to sustainable collections, conceptual ideas and promising events. and once again kraftwerk Berlin will be turned into a future-oriented, global platform for all innovation and sustainability topics.

florence / amsterdam

ultimate menswear stage pitti uomo 12 — 15 june 2018 usp: the world’s leading trade show for menswear fortezza da basso viale filippo strozzi 1 florence pit timmagine.com

pitti uomo is always ready to capture the latest fashion vibrations and new projects.”

ing summer event: over 1,200 brands from 15 segments will be exhibiting their collections. to add some variety into the mix, the fair shook up a few things at the last edition by integrating new areas and projects. the pittismart app will help visitors to maintain an overview and serves

as a digital guide at the event. the event’s illustrious renaissance location is symbolic of the tradition, modernity and strength of character that is epitomised by the fair and contributes to pitti’s usps: always in tune with the times, progressive, contemporary and reliable.

modefabriek 8 — 9 july 2018 usp: inspiring creative pool for the mid to high-end fashion market in a relaxed atmosphere rai amsterdam europaplein 24 1078 gz amsterdam modefabriek.nl

a creative and inspiring fashion trade event, proudly based in amsterdam. fun equals motivation and motivation equals success. that is something the brains behind modefabriek are only too aware of, and since the beginning they have always ensured that the focus isn’t just on the business aspect, but also on a creative and entertaining programme of accompanying events. relaxed and friendly are therefore two words that best describe the amsterdam fair. and the 45th edition this July will certainly be living up to its p2p (people 2 people) over B2B claim. it’s precisely this central p2p idea that attracts the profash-

good business is fun ionals to the rai amsterdam every six months, as the positive atmosphere of the fair is highly appreciated by both exhibitors and visitors. the number of international visitors slightly increased at the last edition, a result that modefabriek is hoping to build on for the ss19 season. although there won’t be any major new segmentation like in January, the organisers make it their aim to plan every edition anew – in order to always offer their audience exciting talks, advice platforms, fashion shows, music, food and shopping. in short: the upcoming modefabriek is destined to be another must-attend fashion event.

tradeshows

and that’s exactly what is tempting more and more international visitors to tuscany. in January, pitti uomo recorded a four percent increase in the number of overseas buyers – and 9,200 international buyers in total. the organisers are hoping to maintain this strong result at the upcom-

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there are many events on the international trade fair calendar but none of them can match pitti uomo. the 94th edition this June is expecting over 36,000 visitors who will flock to florence’s menswear fashion pilgrimage site of fortezza da Basso to gain an overview of the ss19 collections. the lifestyle aspects of the leading menswear fair are hard to describe in words, they really have to be seen to be believed.

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amsterdam / marrakech

kingpins show 18 — 19 april 2018 usp: denim-focused and highly informative tradeshow in the jeans mecca of amsterdam

the truth about denim

westergasfabriek klönneplein 1 1014 dd amsterdam kingpinsshow.com

the highlights of the event include a garment installation, daily trend presentations with amy leverton from denim dudes and the ‘transformers’ in the transformatorhuis (transformer

house) area. here visitors will find a curated selection of exhibitors that kingpins believes follow the best sustainable practices in their factories and are willing to share their solutions with the industry. after all, for both manufacturers and buyers there is no getting around issues like social responsibility and financial aspects. the list of exhibitors includes candiani denim, orta anadolu, arvind limited, tejidos royo, Jeanologia, tonelle, elleti group, the italian Job, rudolf group and officina +39. visitors can also look forward to seminars, various trend presentations and an expert panel debunking myths about denim, as well as a lecture by invista.

the cooperation with messe frankfurt will have. Both partners are hoping to benefit from each other and the moroccans are looking forward to being able to demonstrate an increased presence at the international messe frankfurt fairs. after all, with its 205 international tradeshow events, 50 of which are textile fairs, messe frankfurt is one of the biggest trade fair organisers in the world. the 128 exhibitors at last october’s event were very satisfied,

praising in particular the excellent communication and the high quality of the visitors. for the first time, manufacturers and pre-suppliers from the leather sector were also in attendance. as well as the tradeshow’s particular advantages, such as its long-standing cooperation with fast fashion specialists, the geographic proximity to the european market and the stable political situation in the country are also huge plus points for the organisers and local producers.

kingpins invigorates the denim industry with the best resources, seminars and atmosphere. last season, 1,330 visitors and just under 600 companies made their way to Westergasfabriek to gain an overview of all the denim industry’s trends and innovations. and the april edition for aW19 will once again be focusing on a cross-section of the most important hot topics currently affecting the sector, showcased by around 80 exhibitors.

full speed ahead maroc in mode october 2018 usp: a look behind the scenes of the moroccan clothing industry promenade paddock moulay hassan circuit marrakech

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marocsourcing.ma

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a popular melting pot of culture and tradition, marrakech is the perfect location for maroc in mode – maroc sourcing. the tradeshow developed in leaps and bounds at the last edition and is now optimistically looking towards the future by offering not only the local, but also the european fashion industry new opportunities for fast, price-sensitive sourcing. the positive upswing of the fair was also noticed by its 1,779

visitors from 22 nations – with a clear majority coming from morocco. But the organisers were able to report an impressive 19% increase in comparison to the previous year. in terms of overseas visitors, france dominated with 23% followed by spain with 17% and germany with 13%. the excellent reputation of the buyers from companies like desigual, c&a, marc o’polo, mustang, s.oliver, tom tailor and zalando was also representative of the growing respect for maroc in mode. “the textile sector in morocco has taken on a new speed, which is also being reflected in the diversity of the moroccan exhibitors at the fair,” said mohamed tazi, general director of amith (the moroccan association of the textile and apparel industries). the compact offer comprising denim, knitwear and tailored collections, as well as the cooperations with messe frankfurt and the portuguese textile association are pooling the strengths of the fair by the moroccan amith with support from the ministry of foreign trade. We will have to wait until october to see what effects

paris

texworld 17 — 20 september 2018 usp: textiles, fabrics, components le bourget 1 avenue de flandre 75019 paris texworld.fr.messefrankfurt.com

brand new & condensed visitors (81%) and is positive that this can be maintained at the next edition in september. new visitors travelled in particular from north america and africa – especially from morocco and tunisia. south africa and ethiopia were also well represented. the number of european visitors increased, as russia, poland and hungary showed a growing interest in texworld denim. the

denim premiÈre vision 23 — 24 may 2018 usp: one of the top european denim trade shows

organisers are also happy about the high number of german buyers and are hoping for similarly solid results in september. discussion and presentation opportunities, shows and other exciting events in the social village round off the comprehensive offer of mainly chinese, pakistani and indian manufacturers, making for another exciting texworld denim in september 2018.

new food for thought

parc floral de paris route de la pyramide 75012 paris denimpremierevision.com

a hub for creative industry planners from young designers to ready-to-wear fashion brands, from sportswear brands to denim players. denim première vision is being given a reboot and shifting its focus to contemporary inspiration and experiments. the organisers are aware of the challenges facing the jeans industry and trade fair organisers, which is why they want to inform and provide inspiration. the best way to shake things up is by breaking out of their usual routine, by regularly changing the location of the fair. the may edition is taking place in the parc floral de paris, while the december show will be held in the truman Brewery in london.

in terms of content, the focus will be shifted onto fashion brands who want to create modern jeans collections and are looking for the best sourcing tools. the aim is to create a friendly atmosphere for doing business, and to concentrate on the essentials in the ‘show urbanization’ which will be back again this year. another highlight is the collaboration with ‘decontextualization’ designer lutz huelle, who has come up with a series of reinterpreted denim silhouettes and fashion looks. awaiting visitors is a mix of manufacturers, suppliers, laundries and finishers, who will provide food for thought and help the buyers to understand the issues currently faced by the industry.

tradeshows

this february, for the first time, messe frankfurt france organised texworld denim as an independent format, dedicating an entire platform to denim manufacturers – and it was a resounding success. the idea of pooling

all suppliers and manufacturers of jeans and fabrics in one place has paid off. a total of 13,000 visitors came over the four days of the fair to view the collections of 80 exhibitors. “the aim is to help visitors find the right contacts quickly,” explains michael scherpe, president of messe frankfurt france, who was extremely satisfied with the share of international

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messe frankfurt france is changing the concept to turn texworld denim into a show in its own right.

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st y ling

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4 JULY 2018 – KRAFTWERK BERLIN WWW.FASHIONTECH.BERLIN

FASHION. TECH. DIGITALISATION. INNOVATION. BUSINESS.

10 questions

intervieW andres damm

10 j'n'c t a l k

questions

hajime ishii director & general manager global scm division, toray industries, inc. figures, but the costs are enormous, so, it’s clear that this kind of product can only be a commercial success if it convinces customers all over the world.

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was that the case with heattech?

With over a billion sold items, we certainly can’t complain that our investments in research haven’t paid off.

ultra-thin down jackets, shirts that cool you down — the chemical company toray is behind various technologies making a significant contribution to the success of Japanese textile giant uniqlo. J’n’c met up with hajime ishii in new york.

1

toray and uniqlo are constantly working on new innovations — what technical advancements can we look forward to? there are technologies that are already being used in other areas of everyday life, but they need to be refined before they can be put to use in textiles. intelligent materials that allow garments to store information or convey information are a prime example of ideas that are no longer just absurd pipe dreams of the future.

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do you see scope for improving existing technologies? of course, existing technologies can also be developed further. microfibres, for example, are becoming increasingly lightweight and so the clothes are becoming even thinner.

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does this lightness mean making sacrifices in terms of durability? no, definitely not, the fibres are designed so that they are at least as durable as thicker fibres.

4

how does toray, as a chemical company, deal with the increasing demand for natural materials and the general trend for sustainability? there are a multitude of options and technologies to work in a sustainable and ecological way, even for a chemical company. for example, the microfibres for heattech are derived from vegetable oils. on the other hand, how the products are dealt with is an important aspect. We try to create long-lasting, high-quality products. a microfibre that manages to retain its fresh appearance and still fulfil its function after many washes is much more environmentally friendly than a cotton shirt that loses its shape after three washes and will therefore be thrown away.

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so a synthetic microfibre can also be sustainable? absolutely. you also have to take into account the amount of

energy that is saved by hi-tech fibres. it’s been proven that wearing heattech clothing raises the perceived temperature of the wearer by approximately one degree celsius. if you need to heat less, you’ve already achieved an enormous saving in energy.

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clothing to combat the cold makes sense, but what about when it’s too hot? intelligent technologies can be extremely useful here too. the airism fibre we have developed, for example, has a huge cooling function. admittedly, at first it sounds illogical to add another layer of clothing to help you sweat less on hot days. But that is exactly what happens with underwear made of airism, because the fabric is moisture absorbent and intensively cooling.

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research is expensive — how many products do you need to shift in order to economically justify the investment? the economic objective is, of course, to achieve a maximum turnover: the larger the quantity, the lower the research costs that need to be passed on to the consumer. We can’t name exact

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does the material play a role for the customers when buying clothes, or is it primarily the design that counts? uniqlo is a fashion brand so both these aspects play a role for its customers. and that’s reflected in our cooperations. regardless of whether it’s ines de la fresange, J.W. anderson or christopher lemaire, all our partners are clearly committed to comfort for the wearer and uniqlo’s high expectations of lifewear. and that’s when great design happens. But the material responsible for that comfort shouldn’t be subordinate to the form.

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uniqlo and particularly their heattech items emphasise the longevity aspect. can demand be sustained or even increased at that level? yes, on the one hand by new customers, both in existing and new markets. thanks to good marketing, we have endless opportunities for growth. and then of course, through further improvements and innovations. if we improve the product, existing customers will add those items to their wardrobe and replace other, less comfortable, items with ours.

Wonderful to wander Bikini Berlin

CONCEPT SHOPPING MALL FASHION. FOOD. DESIGN. www.bikiniberlin.de