Ivy League

Bajo el nombre de Ivy League se agrupan las ocho universidades más antiguas y prestigiosas de EE UU. Campus ajardinados e idílicos donde han estudiado presidentes, jueces y senadores, la élite del país. En 1965, el fotógrafo japonés Teruyoshi Hayashida retrató con su cámara su peculiar estética, un modo de sentir y de vestir que ha terminado por convertirse en todo un referente de la moda masculina.

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ué pasaría si descubrieras que firmas de ropa tan populares como Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Abercrombie&Fitch, Brooks Brothers, Gant o Franklin&Marshall deben mucho de su inspiración a un fotógrafo japonés apellidado Hayashida? Probablemente nada (salvo un lógico estado inicial de perplejidad, claro). Suena a locura, pero gran parte de este gusto actual por el look universitario (a caballo entre Grease y American pie) comenzó con un intrépido viaje de ida y vuelta entre la Costa Este de Norteamérica y el lejano Japón. ¿Nos hemos vuelto locos? Mejor empecemos por el principio...

A mediados del siglo XVII, los EE UU de América no eran más que otra colonia de ultramar del imperio británico. La Corona deseaba imponer sus principios éticos y morales sobre el Nuevo Mundo; así que decidió exportar cultura y conocimiento fundando las primeras siete universidades en territorio norteamericano. Durante los siguientes 250 años, dichas instituciones crecieron y se desarrollaron compartiendo dos elementos comunes. Primero, consolidándose como referencia nacional en materia de educación, formación, valores morales y éxitos deportivos. El segundo, algo más banal, destacando por sus fachadas de piedra decoradas por frondosos mantos de hiedra (ivy, en inglés). Una adorable planta trepadora que ha dado nombre, desde 1954, a la asociación más elitista y envidiada de EE UU: la Ivy League, la Liga de la Hiedra.

Compuesta por siete universidades anteriores a la propia Revolución Americana (Harvard, Yale, Princeton, Pennsylvania, Columbia, Dartmouth y Brown) y una que se sumó casi un siglo después (Cornell), la Ivy League estructura y articula la vida académica e intelectual de la flor y nata de la juventud americana. Gran parte de los personajes más relevantes e influyentes de su historia han estudiado, enseñado o formado parte de alguna de las Ivy. Benjamin Franklin (Pennsylvania), Albert Einstein (Princeton), John F. Kennedy (Harvard)... Presidentes, senadores, jueces del Supremo, abogados, financieros; estudiar en alguna de estas ocho universidades supone éxito profesional, prestigio y buena cuna. ¿Pero qué demonios tiene que ver Japón con todo esto? Un poco de paciencia, por favor.

Además de ofrecer una educación esmerada, re-

pleta de futuro, las universidades de la Ivy League siempre han destacado por su estricto código de vestimenta y conducta. Sus estudiantes, desde tiempos remotos, han adecuado su armario a las exigencias de un día a día (clases, prácticas deportivas, fiestas, actos sociales) perfectamente estructurado.

Una forma de ser y de vestir que tiene su propio nombre: el estilo Ivy. Y así llegamos al momento seminal de esta historia. Año 1965, Teruyoshi Hayashida, un fotógrafo japonés absolutamente desconocido decide coger un avión, poner rumbo a Norteamérica y recorrer con su cámara las ocho universidades de la Ivy League. ¿Su objetivo? Plasmar, con la máxima

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The football season runs from September to November. The games are held in a league system and thus all Ivy League universities play one another during the season. In recent years, Dartmouth and Princeton have been dominant. Since the Ivy League once used to be synonymous with powerful football teams, it is a disappointing fact

that the football prowess of today’s Ivy League universities is inferior to that of other collegiate football powerhouses.

The game between Harvard and Yale may be compared to the Waseda-Keio baseball game held in the Tokyo Big Six University Baseball League in Japan. The Harvard-Yale game is held alternately in Cambridge or New Haven. With its long tradition, the Harvard-Yale game usually attracts around 100,000 spectators.

Probably because there are only five players on a team, different from football, Ivy League basketball teams are more competitive in games with non-Ivy universities.

Ivy League basketball players often achieve outstanding results and many have been selected as All Americans or chosen to be members of

the U.S. Olympic team.

During theposible, season, an of two games naturalidad laaverage vida cotidiana, las cosare scheduled per week at each university.

As tumbres y los gustos estéticos de sus estudiantes, they are held in gymnasiums, basketball games los llamados a dirigir el país más poderoso del draw smaller crowds than baseball games. Even mundo, elgymnasiums sueño americano ¿El resulso, the usuallyhecho fill up carne. with excited tado?

UnThe puñado de imágenes hipnóticas, absorbenfans. last league champion was Princeton.

tes y mágicas, que hoy parecen sacadas de un catálogo de moda. El trabajo de Hayashida acabará tomando forma de libro, Take Ivy, probablemente la radiografía más profunda realizada hasta la fecha de la élite universitaria americana. Inesperadamente (o no), la obra se convierte en una especie de biblia estética y, posteriormente, en un volumen de culto rebuscado y copiado por cientos de diseñadores de moda de todo el mundo. ¿Pero qué se esconde tras esta extraña fascinan-

ción? ¿Qué valores intenta proyectar la Ivy League?

El primero y más básico es, sin duda, el patriotismo (nada tan americano). Cada mañana, las ocho universidades Ivy ven alzar en lo alto de un mástil –estratégicamente colocado– la bandera de las barras y las estrellas. La Universidad no es sino la prolongación de un concepto de orgullo nacional que acompaña a los estudiantes a lo largo de toda su vida. Una forma de entender la realidad que, en su futuro, trasladarán a las empresas para las que acaben trabajando. No obstante, antes de dar ese salto definitivo hasta su dura vida laboral, tendrán que superar una serie de pruebas –no menos exigentes– que el campus les irá poniendo.

Es primordial conseguir la aceptación de los demás. Para ello, se han de seguir a rajatabla dos principios básicos: “juega duro” y “estudia duro”.

Una doble acepción para un mismo mensaje (con una explicación muy sencilla). Todo chico Ivy ha de demostrar que es sociable, educado, correcto, divertido e incluso –si la ocasión lo requiere– irreverente, sabiendo siempre elegir el momento adecuado para serlo (señal ésta de su inteligencia).

Y es precisamente el intelecto el otro aspecto al que la élite de Norteamérica presta mayor atención.

Demostrar que se es un buen estudiante, con éxitos académicos notables, siempre será un punto a favor.

Es aquí, también, donde la competitividad empieza a hacer acto de presecia.

Pero para competitividad, la propia del ámbito deportivo. Quien no practique un deporte o no reúna condiciones físicas destacadas, será marginado.

La universidad es el principal granero del que

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se nutre un país como EE UU, históricamente plagado de grandes atletas. No conviene olvidar que el propio término Ivy League tuvo en origen connotaciones deportivas, asociándose sobre todo al fútbol americano. La rivalidad entre sus ocho miembros, sin embargo, abarca otras disciplinas, como baloncesto, lacrosse o remo (incluyendo la famosa regata entre Harvard y Yale, que emula históricamente a la mítica rivalidad entre las inglesas Oxford y Cambridge).

Y por fin, su forma de vestir, que tampoco escapa a su propio sello.

Los estudiantes pasan las jornadas dentro de un mismo recinto (la mayoría de los días se limitan a ir a clase y a estudiar en su habitación), por lo que se impone un look cómodo. Eso sí, aderezado con unas pinceladas de la elegancia propia de los niños bien. De este modo, paso a paso, va naciendo un improvisado estilo que progresivamente se irá implantando más allá de los muros de sus facultades. Shorts con mocasines, polos, jerseys de pico, pantalones chinos, chaquetas de béisbol, sudaderas deportivas, americanas de cuadros... (prendas, eso sí, adornadas con el nombre de la universidad, el equipo de fútbol o las siglas de la fraternidad impresas en el pecho). Ha nacido el estilo Ivy League.

Como ejemplo ilustrativo de esta obsesión por la vestimenta, rescatamos alguno de los veinte artículos “del buen vestir”, perfectamente redactados, que todo estudiante de Yale debe seguir al dedillo. “Tener siempre un traje de color oscuro preparado para posibles cenas o eventos de gala”; otro: “Elegir chaquetas de sport o blazers en color camel con corbata oscura para reuniones informales con amigos o citas con señoritas”. Tomamos nota.

Mucho de estos estudiantes de la Ivy League acabaron trabajando en 110 110 grandes empresas de Nueva York y, más concretamente, en Madison Avenue, la avenida más influyente de la ciudad. Carne de Mad Men. Un cambio laboral que les obligaría a sustituir el estilo universitario del campus por el traje negro impecable de la jungla de asfalto, pero siempre TheThe Eight Eight The IvyEight Ivy League League IvyUniversities League Universities Universities guardando en el armario la camiseta, orgullosa, de su facultad.

nica, Ishizu crece en el Japón inmediatamente posterior a la Segunda Guerra Mundial, aún ocupado por las tropas americanas. Siendo apenas un adolescente, conoce al teniente O’Brien, antiguo alumno de Princeton y seguidor impenitente del estilo Ivy. Así, poco a poco, Kensuke comienza a interesarse por el gusto occidental y su vestuario.

En apenas unos años, acaba consagrándose como el gran gurú del nuevo estilo nipón. Funda Men’s club, la primera revista masculina del país y, poco después, en 1951, inicia su andadura en el mundo de la moda fundando la firma Van Jacket, todo un mito dentro del amplio universo fashionista y referente histórico del estilo Ivy League.

Tras la Segunda Guerra Mundial, Japón había experimentado un baby boom sin precedentes, por lo que en la década de los sesenta el país contaba con una enorme masa de población juvenil. La astucia de Ishizu percibió rápidamente un importante nicho por ocupar; así que incorporó el estilo universitario americano a la cultura de su tierra. Una liberación elegante y meticulosa en medio de la más absoluta uniformidad tradicional. La idea era transmitir el sabor de la joven élite estadounidense a un público diferente. El éxito fue rotundo.

Así, Van Jacket y Men’s club –que redefinió su target hacia un público más joven– marcaron las tendencias de la sociedad japonesa durante décadas. Y fue precisamente el editor de esta revista, Fujingahosha, instado por el propio Ishiku, quien encargó el proyecto Take Ivy a Teruyosi Hayashida, autor de las fotos de este reportaje. El círculo se cierra. La iconografía asociada al imaginario popular de la cultura yankee se hizo grande desde 110111 111 111 Asia. Extraño, pero cierto. Desde entonces, decenas de marcas de éxito basan gran parte de sus líneas masculinas en el puro estilo Ivy. Una moda que comenzó en los campus universitarios, que un fotógrafo japonés llevó a las revistas de Pero regresesemos a Japón y a la biografía de un personaje extraorestilo de vida y que hoy invade los escapatodas las fotografías de este reportaje pertenecen al libro dinario coétano de Hayashida: Kensuke Ishizu. Vinculado desde joven rates y las ciudades de medio mundo.

Take ivy, de Teruyoshi Hayashida, publicado por powerhouse books.

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Probably that reason, there are three university-owned slopes La más norteña de laskiIvy as King’s Probably for that reason, the there are three university-owned ski slopes school emblem has the design of a crown and its the campus.

Needless to say, Dartmouth has school emblem design its campus. Needless the campus.

Needless to say, Dartmouth school emblem has the designhas of athe crown andofitsa crown and the to say, has tra- tra-has traLeague yDartmouth con un descomuschool mascot is a lion, the king of beasts. ditionally been strong in collegiate ski competischool mascot is a lion, the king of beasts. ditionally been strong in collegiate ski competischool mascot is a lion, the king of beasts. ditionally been strong in collegiate ski competiother Ivy League universities which which tions. Chiharu a former Japanese nal campus que da vida la in other Ivy League universities tions.

Chiharu Igaya, a former Unlike Unlike other Unlike Ivy League universities which tions. Chiharu Igaya, aIgaya, former Japanese skierJapanese inskierainskier were founded with religious strong religious affiliations, the Winter Olympics, was a prominent member were with strong religious affiliations, the Winter wasmember a prominent member were founded withfounded strong affiliations, the Winter Olympics, wasOlympics, a prominent localidad deteam.

Hanover (New Columbia University is unique in the way that of a past Dartmouth ski Columbia University is unique in the way that of a past Dartmouth ski team.

Columbia University is unique in the way that of a past Dartmouth ski team.

Hampshire). por sus it has itadvocated freedom of religion Dartmouth College is known for its for unique has advocated freedom of religion since its Dartmouth Dartmouth College is known its unique it has advocated freedom of religion since itssince its College is known forFamosa its unique inception.

Although it currently hasstu2,800 honorwhich code advocates which advocates and emphasizes inception.

Although it currently has stu2,800 stuhonor code which and emphasizes inception.

Although it currently has 2,800 honor code andadvocates emphasizes rígidos códigos de honor y dents, its first graduating class included only taking responsibility for one’s actions.

In accordents, its first graduating class included only taking responsibility for one’s actions.

In accordents, its first graduating class included only taking responsibility for one’s actions. In accorsus buenos esquiadores. eight students. itThus achieved agrowth rapida growth dance the university honor code,and exams and and eight it achieved rapid growth dance with the university honor code, exams eight students.

Thusstudents. it Thus achieved a rapid dance with thewith university honor code, exams aperiod shorta of period ofIntime.

In its neighbordormitories notaresupervised andeach thus short period time.

In its neighbordormitories notand supervised andeach thus each during during a shortduring time. itsofneighbordormitories are notare supervised thus hood is Barnard College, one of the Seven Sisstudent’s self-discipline is expected.

As described hood is Barnard College, one of the Seven Sisstudent’s self-discipline is expected.

As described hood is Barnard College, one of the Seven Sisstudent’s self-discipline is expected. As described ters, that still aexchange closea exchange with with in its motto—“the oneofcrying in the in the ters, thatmaintains still maintains close in its motto—“the voice ters, that still maintains a close withexchange in its motto—“the voice ofvoice one of crying inone the crying Columbia University. wilderness”—the Dartmouth campus exudes a Columbia University. wilderness”—the Dartmouth campus exudes a Columbia University. wilderness”—the Dartmouth campus exudes a of vigorous youth.youth. sense of vigorous sense ofsense vigorous youth.

Dartmouth’s principal there are three university the campus. Needless to s ditionally been strong in tions. Chiharu Igaya, a fo the Winter Olympics, wa of a past Dartmouth ski Dartmouth College is honor code which advo taking responsibility for o dance with the university dormitories are not sup student’s self-discipline is in its motto—“the voice wilderness”—the Dartm sense of vigorous youth.

institutions: Brown College forstudents male is also isunique in the Ivythe League for for institutions: Brown College for students male students CornellCornell in institutions: Brown College for male is alsoCornell unique inalso the unique Ivy League forIvy League and Pembroke College for female students. a school ofadministration hotel Rodeada naturaleza en última en incorporarse. andde Pembroke College for female students. having a school of administration hotel administration and Pembroke College for female students. having having aLa school of hotel from from from College has male 2,400 male students and and a number of prominent and resBrown College hasstudents 2,400 male which a number of prominent hoteliers and resBrown College has and students which awhich number ofsu prominent hoteliers and resunaBrown colina de2,400 Providence Debe nombre a hoteliers Ezra Pembroke 1,200, totaling 3,600 3,600 students for for taurateurs have graduated.

Ichiro Ichiro Inumaru of the of the Pembroke 1,200, totaling have graduated.

Pembroke 1,200, totaling 3,600 students for students taurateurs havetaurateurs graduated.

Ichiro Inumaru of theInumaru the university. entire university.

Brown University does does Imperial Hotel inisJapan is one is graduate.

Inter- Inter(Rhode Island).

Desde 1764, Cornell, que en 1865 fundó the entire university.

Brown University Imperial Hotel ingraduate.

Japan one graduate. the entire Brown University does Imperial Hotel in Japan one Internotinexcel inexcel a particular sport, but a swimming after completing fourofyears learning not a particular sport, but a swimming afterfour completing fourofyears not excel acon particular sport, but a swimming estingly,estingly, after estingly, completing years learning cuenta la in curiosidad una institución con másadministration, deof learning is test a required ofpart the of physical test that all aspects oforhotel restaurant administration, is a required the that physical test that all aspects ofor hotel or restaurant test is atest required part of part the physical test all aspects of hotel restaurant administration, que todos suscomplete. alumnos estudiantes.

Cuenta all freshmen must Acquiring suffi- suffia 8.000 successful graduate will receive a Bachelor of all freshmen must complete.

Acquiring a successful receive of allde freshmen must complete.

Acquiring suffia successful graduate will graduate receive a will Bachelor of a Bachelor cient swimming is therefore degree—a quite pompous-sounding de- decientskills swimming skills is therefore mandatory Science degree—a quite pompous-sounding cient isskills therefore mandatory ScienceScience degree—a quite pompous-sounding dehanswimming deallpasar un examen demandatory conAlso, una reconocida escuela for students. gree. only Cornell offers a special dormifor all students. gree.

Also, only Cornell offers a special dormifor all students. gree. Also, only Cornell offers a special dorminatación para ingresar. deforhostelería. married couples, isminute a fiveis minute tory for married a five minute tory fortory married couples, whichcouples, iswhich a fivewhich walkthe from the campus. walk from the campus. walk from campus.

Columbia University was founded in 1754 as College.

Probably for reason, the AKing’s veinte minutos enthat metro school emblem has the design of a crown and its desde Times Square, se eleva school mascot is a lion, the king of beasts.

Unlike other Ivy de League universities which este gigante la docencia. were founded with strong religious affiliations, Creada en 1754 como King’s Columbia University is unique in the way that es freedom la Meca del peitCollege, has advocated of religion since its inception. Although it currently has 2,800 sturiodismo y la comunicación dents, its first graduating class included only contemporánea. eight students. Thus it achieved a rapid growth during a short period of time. In its neighborhood is Barnard College, one of the Seven Sisters, that still maintains a close exchange with Columbia University.

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