TravelWorld Cruise Travel March.April.May 09

09.2 MAR.APR.MAY

cruise travel issue

12 Tips FOR A GREAT FAMILY CRUISE

Keep Off The Weight WHILE ONBOARD

“Must Have” TRAVEL ITEMS FOR WRITERS

PLUS NATJA’S ANNUAL CONTEST

Award Winners

Rounding THE

Cape

VOYAGE TO THE LAND OF FIRE AND ICE

O F F I C I A L M A G A Z I N E O F T H E N O R T H A M E R I C A N T R AV E L J O U R N A L I S T S A S S O C I AT I O N

TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE / 09.2 MAR.APR.MAY

09.2 MAR.APR.MAY

FEATURES 10 RADIANT ROUNDING Voyage to the land of fire and ice around the Horn from Chile to Argentina STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID MOORCROFT

16 75 YEARS APART IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC Cruising through paradise with three generations STORY BY BRIAN HEMSWORTH, PHOTOGRAPHY BY JERRI HEMSWORTH

22 BE ENCHANTED ON A SHORT FAMILY CRUISE Explore these 12 tips on making your family vacation the success you long for STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY NANCY SCHRETTER

26 A MODERN POLAR ADVENTURE FOR EVERYONE An Antarctic journey on the newest polar cruise ship STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY CAROLE HERDEGEN

32 DISCOVER THE ESSENCE OF NASSAU Practical steps to open new doors STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRISTINE TIBBETTS

36 CRUISIN’ FUN WITHOUT THE WEIGHT Healthy cruising in Alaska STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY SUE FRAUSE

COLUMNS 4 6

FROM THE PUBLISHER

7 8

BENEFITS OF BEING A NATJA MEMBER

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

NATJA

Introducing the 2008 NATJA Annual Awards Competition Winners

40

SPORTS & SIGHTS

Changes In The Wind For Baseball Spring Training /

44

SENIOR TRAVEL

Vegas Offers Much More Than Gambling /

47

BY MICHELLE NEWMAN

DISABILITY TRAVEL

Cruising The Southern Pacific /

52

BY CANDY B. HARRINGTON

SPOTLIGHT

Members “Must Have” Travel Items /

54

BY VICTOR BLOCK

ARTS & ARCHITECTURE

Lefkara: The Lace Village /

50

BY DAN SCHLOSSBERG

BY ARLINE ZATZ

LIBRARY 09.2 MAR.APR.MAY / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

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FROM THE PUBLISHER

Cruising Feeds

THE IMAGINATION When I think of cruising, the feeling of complete relaxation comes to mind. The first time I took a cruise, I was 17 and on my way to Alaska with my mother and grandparents. I was one of three people under the age of 45, and more often than not, I was bored out of my gourd. I spent a lot of time napping in my room while Mom, Grammy and Grampa played canasta with shipmates in one of the lounges. But Grampa encouraged me to write about my journey and what I saw. I still have that journal.

The second time I went on a cruise, it was in the South Pacific (see page 16). I went with my husband, mother-in-law and 7-year-old daughter to Tahiti and sailed from there. While I had very fond memories of the beauty of Alaska, I was really unprepared for the stunning views of French Polynesia. I was also unprepared for the ultimate relaxation that would quickly envelope my being. I had forgotten how peaceful a ship at night could be, how the sea air has a magical healing quality for the mind and body, and how very far away you can go, both physically and mentally.

Cruising is a wonderful way to see the world and get lost in one’s own imagination. Visiting faraway lands and exotic locales inspires all sorts of stories that need to be told to those at home.

That had to be what newspaper man Arthur Anderson had in mind when he created an advertisement in his Shetland newspaper for an “imaginary cruise” to the islands off of Scotland. This was in 1835 and his ad was solely meant to fill an advertising hole he had in an issue. Anderson was credited with “inventing” cruising, yet it wasn’t until 1843 that P&O advertised and carried out an actual “Interesting and Classic Excursion to Constantinople.” With that, classic voyages to faraway lands were born.

In 1844, the novelist William Makepeace Thackeray sailed around the Mediterranean. From this experience he wrote the popular book, From Cornhill to Cairo.

So it seems that writing and cruising were meant to be together from the get-go. This issue proves that much is to be learned from the stories cruising travelers bring back. There still is so much to feed the imagination!

Jerri Jerri Hemsworth Publisher jerrih@natja.org

TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE / 09.2 MAR.APR.MAY

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

10

Comments?

Questions?

Suggestions?

Drop us a line at Travelworld International Magazine by emailing kim@natja.org.

26

32

47

I hope that you’ve enjoyed the new look of Travelworld International Magazine! From all the positive feedback I’ve received, it seems like most readers do.

With our cruise issue, we’ve covered everything from how to pick a family cruise to how to stay fit while onboard. David Moorcroft takes us along for an exciting journey from Chile to Argentina (page 10). Christine Tibbetts gives us the inside scoop on Nassau (page 32), while Carol Herdegen gives us a stunning photo essay of Antarctica (page 26).

From our regular columnists, a number of topics are covered. NATJA members weigh in on their “never leave home without them” items for an interesting packing list in the NATJA Spotlight column (page 52). Michelle Newman visits the lace capital of the world (page 47) and Dan Schlossberg predicts changes for baseball spring training season (page 40).

These and many other exciting travel stories await you. Enjoy the issue!

Happy and safe travels!

Kim Kim Foley MacKinnon Editor kim@natja.org

2009 EDITORIAL CALENDAR You may have noticed that we’ve combined some issues this year. With all of the changes and updates to the magazine and the continuing work on the NATJA website, it seemed the best way to deliver TWI in a timely and relevant manner. The regular schedule will resume in the fall.

Submission?

Submit story and

June/July/August . . . . . .FAMILY . . . . . . . . . . .Deadline April 20

photography pitches

Sept/Oct . . . . . . . . . . . . . .LUXURY . . . . . . . . . .Deadline August 5

to kim@natja.org.

Do not submit images unless requested.

TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE / 09.2 MAR.APR.MAY

Nov/Dec . . . . . . . . . . . . . .FOOD & WINE . . . .Deadline October 5

The Benefits of Being a NATJA Member Travelworld International Magazine is the official magazine of the North American Travel Journalists Association Group Publisher Publisher Editor Art Direction/Production Art Intern Vice President, Marketing Contributing Writers

Helen Hernandez Jerri Hemsworth Kim Foley MacKinnon Newman Grace Inc. Kaycie Lund Brian Hemsworth Sue Frause Brian Hemsworth Carole Herdegen David Moorcroft Nancy Schretter Christine Tibbetts

Contributing Columnists

Victor Block Candy B. Harrington Michelle Newman Dan Schlossberg Arline Zatz

Editorial/Advertising offices Travelworld International Magazine 150 S. Arroyo Parkway, 2nd Floor Pasadena, CA 91105 P: 626.376.9754 www.travelworldmagazine.com Travelworld International Magazine is published bi-monthly by Travel Professionals Inc. 150 S. Arroyo Parkway, 2nd Floor, Pasadena, CA 91105

Volume 2009.2 March/April/May. Copyright ©2009 by Travel Professionals Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Advertising rates and information sent upon request. Acceptance of advertising in Travelworld International Magazine in no way constitutes approval or endorsement by Travel Professionals Inc. or NATJA of products or services advertised. Travelworld International Magazine and Travel Professionals Inc. reserve the right to reject any advertising. Opinions expressed by authors are their own and not necessarily those of Travelworld International Magazine or Travel Professionals Inc. Travelworld International Magazine reserves the right to edit all contributions for clarity and length, as well as to reject any material submitted. Not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts. This periodical’s name and logo along with the various titles and headings therein, are trademarks of Travel Professionals Inc. PRODUCED IN U.S.A.

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www.natja.org 09.2 MAR.APR.MAY / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

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NATJA

Introducing The NATJA Annual

AWARD WINNERS! THE RESULTS ARE IN. CONGRATULATIONS TO THIS YEAR’S WINNERS! GRAND PRIZE WINNERS Steve Pona Charlene Rooke Martin Morrell

1. Destination Travel: Domestic (Newspaper) 1st Place - Tracy Barnett Merit Award - Tom Uhlenbrock Merit Award - Jim Loomis Merit Award - Paul Bennett Merit Award - Jason George

2. Destination Travel: Domestic (Magazine) 1st Place - Mark Schatzker Merit Award - David McGimpsey Merit Award - Kay Grant Merit Award - Nancy Wigston

3. Destination Travel: International (Newspaper) Grand Prize - Steve Pona Merit Award - Lisa Sonne Merit Award - Heather Greenwood Davis Merit Award - Jason George Merit Award - Helen Fallding Merit Award - Ellen Creager Merit Award - Nancy Wigston

4. Destination Travel: International (Magazine) Grand Prize - Charlene Rooke Merit Award - Amy Rosen Merit Award - Marika McElroy Cain Merit Award - Joe Yogerst Merit Award - Jeff Greenwald Merit Award - William Kissel Merit Award - Sara Morrow Merit Award - Noah Richler Merit Award - Jarrett Wrisley Merit Award - Bill Thomas Merit Award - Elaine Glusac

5. Bylined Column (Print) 1st Place - Heather Greenwood Davis Merit Award - Carol Perehudoff Merit Award - Julia Ross Merit Award - Brad A. Johnson Merit Award - John Lee Merit Award - Heather Greenwood Davis Merit Award - Keith Bellows

6. Local Lifestyle 1st Place - Jeff Greenwald Merit Award - Tracy Barnett Merit Award - Elaine Glusac

7. Leisure Activity 1st Place - John Lee Merit Award - Peter Johansen Merit Award - Michael Hiller Merit Award - Bobbie Green

Merit Award - Kristen Bellstrom Merit Award - Shari Caudron

8. Series (one or multiple authors) 1st Place - James Conaway Merit Award - Timothy Taylor Merit Award - Christine Tibbets Merit Awards - Linda Fasteson

9. Sports in Conjunction with Travel 1st Place - Jessica Shambora Merit Award - Josh Sens Merit Award - Ingrid Hart Merit Award - Michael Hiller Merit Award - King Montgomery Merit Award - Tim Neville

10. Resorts 1st Place - Dave G. Houser 1st Place - Rex Pickett Merit Award - Tom Uhlenbrock Merit Award - Carol Perehudoff Merit Award - Ellen Creager Merit Award - Fyllis Hockman

11. Cruises 1st Place - Kimberly Brown-Seely Merit Award - Kristen Bellstrom Merit Award - Jeff Koehler Merit Award - Glen Petrie Merit Award - Andrew Solomon Merit Awards - Michael DeFreitas Merit Award - Howard Hian Merit Award - Dave Houser Merit Award - Ron Pradinuk Merit Award - Submitted by: George Burden

12. Personality Profile 1st Place - Amy Rosen Merit Award - Randy Gener Merit Award - Peter Bronski Merit Award - Judy Florman Merit Award - Michael Schuman

13. Historical Travel

16. Culinary Travel 1st Place - Justin Paul Merit Award - Jessica Mueller Merit Award - Natalie MacLean Merit Award - Michael DeFreitas Merit Award - Kristen Bellstrom Merit Award - David McGimpsey Merit Award - Christopher Petkanas Merit Award - Chelle Koster Walton

17. Best Travel Article Written For Internet 1st Place - Peter Rose Merit Awards - Amy Rosen Merit Award - Ingrid Hart Merit Award - Nell Raun-Linde Merit Award - Peter Rose Merit Award - Dave G. Houser

18. Best Travel Broadcast (Radio,TV, Podcast) 1st Place - Darley Newman

20. Best Travel Book 1st Place - Travel & Leisure Magazine Merit Award - Darley Newman

21. Best Travel Guide 1st Place - Pauline Frommer Merit Award - Kirsten Whatley Merit Award - Rona Gindin Merit Award - Elizabeth Borsting

22. General Trade Story 1st Place - Chris McBeath Merit Award - J.L. Erickson Merit Award - Kenneth Shapiro

23(a).Tips and Advice for Consumers 1st Place - Molly Feltner; Jessica Labrencis Merit Award - Tim Leffel Merit Award - Sarah Pascarella

23(b).Tips and Advice for Industry 1st Place - Dori Saltzman

Merit Award - Kevin J. Miyazaki Merit Award - Reanna Evoy Merit Award - Janet Wilson Merit Award - Ron Pradinuk

26. Landscape, Sunset, Mountain or Ocean View 1st Place - Michael DeFreitas Merit Award - Peter Rose Merit Award - Douglas Peebles Merit Award - Julian Wainwright; Amanda Ross Merit Award - Michael DeFreitas Merit Award - Lorne Bridgman Merit Award - Stuart Dee

27. Architecture and/or Facility 1st Place - Douglas Peebles Merit Award - Robert Jerome

28. Press Release 1st Place - Cameron Andrews

29. Brochure, Program, Books, or Newsletter 1st Place - Ron Pradinuk

30. Best Overall Press Kit 1st Place - Jennifer Losch

31. Best CVB/Tourist Bureau Web Site 1st Place - Jennifer Bryant Merit Award - Kim Baker Merit Award - JoNell Modys

32. Best Newspaper Travel Section 1st Place - Jill Schensul

33. Best Travel Magazine 1st Place - Keith Bellows Merit Award - Elaine G. Srnka Merit Award - Ilana Weitzman Merit Award - Myrna George Merit Award - Keith Bellows Merit Award - Dominique Ritter Merit Award - Kent Black

1st Place - Linda Fasteson Merit Award - Barbara Wayman Merit Award - Kiran Desai Merit Awards - Christine Tibbetts Merit Award - Jay Walljasper

24(a). Overall Excellence for a Publication

34. Best Online Travel Magazine

1st Place - Keith Bellows Merit Award - Dominique Ritter Merit Award - Douglas Peebles

35. Best Domestic Newspaper Article

14. Senior Travel

24(b). Overall Excellence for a Single Submission (NEW CATEGORY)

1st Place - Sandra Kennedy 1st Place - Kate Pocock Merit Award - Pamela Hobbs

15. Family Travel 1st Place - Michael DeFreitas Merit Award - George Burden Merit Award - Diane Eaton Merit Award - Heather Greenwood Davis Merit Award - Robert Rivard Merit Award - Kate Pocock

TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE / 09.2 MAR.APR.MAY

Grand Prize - Martin Morrell Merit Award - Michael DeFreitas Merit Award - Glen Petrie Merit Awards - Gail Mooney Merit Award - Douglas Peebles Merit Award - Stuart Dee Merit Awards - John Montgomery

25. Best Cover Photo 1st Place - Kevin J. Miyazaki Merit Award - Annie Griffiths Belt Merit Award - Peter Rose

1st Place - Sarah Pascarella 1st Place - Kelly Schulz

36. Best Domestic Magazine Article 1st Place - M.G. Lord Merit Award - Lissa Poirot

38. Best International Magazine Article 1st Place - Tim Neville 1st Place - Guy Trebay For a more complete listing, please visit www.natja.org.

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Voyage to the Land of Fire and Ice Around the Horn from Chile to Argentina STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY

BY DAVID MOORCROFT

The colorful clapboard houses and weathered Victorian mansions of Valparaiso basked in the early evening sunlight as our cruise ship slipped its mooring and sailed into the steely-blue waters of the Pacific Ocean off the coast of northern Chile.

Valparaiso had been home for the past two days, and my companion and I had enjoyed exploring her eclectic hill-side neighborhoods and riding the rickety wooden elevators to the city’s commercial center below. But we had come to South America to see the land of fire and ice, and to make a-oncein-a-lifetime voyage around Cape Horn. So as our ship headed south to begin its 14-day journey from Valparaiso to Buenos Aries, all we could think about was the adventure that lay ahead.

Since we would be spending the next few days at sea before reaching our first port of call, we decided to spend the time exploring our ship— Royal Caribbean’s Radiance of the Seas.

As large ships go, the Radiance is a gem because she’s been designed to feel cozier than comparable ships weighing 90,000 tons and carrying 2,500 people. She’s big enough to come with a rock climbing wall, billiard room, minigolf, health spa, two swimming pools and a stunning cantilevered lounge perched atop the ship. Yet she’s small enough to have cozy bars, charming show lounges, and a lovely atrium filled with lots of natural light.

We enjoyed getting to know our ship, but couldn’t wait to get ashore once the snowcapped volcanoes and emerald forests of Chile’s gorgeous Lake District appeared on our port side TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE / 09.2 MAR.APR.MAY

Ra

Rou

adiant

unding Snow-capped peaks and mighty glaciers surround the remote Argentine city of Ushuaia.

09.2 MAR.APR.MAY / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

Radiant

Rounding

Sea lions bask on the rocks of Sea Wolves Island in the Beagle Channel near Ushuaia, Argentina.

Magellanic penguins nesting in the Otway Reserve near Punta Arenas, Chile.

and the Radiance dropped anchor in Puerto Montt’s Reloncavi Sound.

Nestled between the ocean and the majestic Andes Mountains just north of Patagonia, the Lake District sits on two tectonic plates with more than 1,000 volcanoes. The geographical result is so awesome that Jules Verne referred to the region as “the land of fire and ice.”

The Lake District was settled by German immigrants who built Puerto Montt and several picturesque villages along the coast of Lake Llanquihue near the snow-capped volcanoes of Cabulco and Osorno. One of the villages, Fruitillar, is home to a museum of traditional wooden houses, a mill and a blacksmith’s shop that show what life was like for the first settlers.

Just outside the museum, there are several bakeries that serve traditional German “Kuchen” cakes which are made of pastry and local fruit.

After leaving Puerto Montt, we made our way south along the majestic fjords of Patagonia and into the historic Strait of Magellan on our way to Punta Arenas. We were now sailing in the path of Ferdinand Magellan, the great Portuguese navigator who discovered this narrow path between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans in 1520.

On the wind-swept pampas outside Punta Arenas, we found plenty of wildlife including giant condors, grey foxes, falcons, and an ostrich-like bird called a “Nandu.” We also found two colonies of Magellanic penguins in the area, including one in nearby Otway Sound.

The Otway Pecket Harbor Reserve has a small viewing porch on the beach where we watched penguins slide into the Sound in search of food for their off-spring. There’s also a pathway with resting points where we were able to see penguins waddle to their burrows just a few feet away.

While timid if people get too close, these beguiling penguins are not shy about poking their heads out of bur-

rows, stretching their wings and squawking a few arias just to let you know who’s in charge.

After a delightful day in Punta Arenas, we sailed south along the Beagle Channel towards the remote Argentine city of Ushuaia. The 150-mile channel is named after the HMS Beagle, which carried naturalist Charles Darwin through these waters on her second voyage of discovery in 1832.

The first European to visit Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego was Ferdinand Magellan. As he sailed into the strait that separates mainland Chile from the island, he was amazed by the many fires the indigenous Indians had lit along the southern shore and named the place “Tierra del Fuego”

and we were thrilled by the spectacular scenery, fauna and wildlife.

The next morning the winds began to howl as we sailed south of Ushuaia and into the furious seas of Drake Passage near Cape Horn, the infamous landmark just 400 miles north of Antarctica. The winds were getting near hurricane force, our bow was crashing through 15-foot seas, and piercing rain was needling down.

Outside on the deck, we were beginning to brace ourselves when a strong gust ripped a glass panel off the roof of the Solarium Pool and sent it crashing onto the promenade deck some 20 feet below. I thought to myself,“Thank goodness we’re crossing from west to east— the easy way with the wind and current

(Land of Fire).

In order to see this rugged beauty close up, we took the “End of the World” train to the nearby Tierra del Fuego National Park, which is filled with soaring peaks, pristine rivers, and beautiful hiking paths that wind through emerald forests and the rocky inlets of the Beagle Channel. We also took a catamaran cruise along the Beagle Channel to see cormorants resting on Bird Island, and slumbering sea lions basking on the rocks of Sea Wolves Island. It’s a naturalist’s delight,

Street musicians perform tango music in the barrio of San Telmo, Buenos Aires.

at our stern. And we’re doing it during the South American summer, when we don’t have to worry about icebergs!”

At this point, a smaller cruise ship that had been following behind us turned tail and headed for protected waters north of the Cape. But we pressed on, eventually rounded Cape Horn, and almost instantly sailed into calmer seas as we headed north along the coast. It had been an exhilarating

09.2 MAR.APR.MAY / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

Radiant

Rounding

The German immigrant village of Fruitillar in Chile’s Lake District.

The colorful barrio of La Boca in Buenos Aries where the tango is still danced in the streets.

The terraced apartments of Casapueblo cling to the cliffs overlooking the Atlantic Ocean near Punta del Este, Uruguay.

experience, and much to our delight, the captain announced that we were now entitled to special privileges including the right to dine with one foot on the table, sport a tattoo of a fullrigged ship, and wear a gold loop in our left ear!

After several tranquil days at sea, we dropped anchor off the coast of Punta del Este in southern Uruguay and awoke to find ourselves surrounded by sand dunes, beautiful beaches and expensive-looking condominiums.

Since we wanted to explore the region on our own, we rented a car and drove straight to the city’s marina, where we found fishing boats unloading and cleaning their daily catch. As the fisherman filleted the fish, huge sea lions bobbed up and down in the harbor next to the pier, anxiously awaiting the scraps.

We then headed west along the coast to the sea-side resort of Casapueblo, which dramatically clings to the edge of a cliff overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. The hotel’s “modernista” style of design by Uruguayan artist Carlos Paez Vilaro features a white-washed façade of terraced apartments, gothic-

looking spires, a rabbit-warren of hallways and staircases, and varying shapes of balconies and windows. Its museum and restaurant are open to the public, and like the hotel, provide spectacular views of the sunset.

By now, it was time to board our ship for the voyage up the Rio de la Plata to Uruguay’s capital of Montevideo, and then on to our final destination in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

Located on the southern banks of the Rio de la Plata, the Ciudad de Nuestra Señora Santa María del Buen Ayre was founded in 1536, and expanded through waves of immigration from Europe. As a result, Buenos Aires was built with European-style grand plazas, broad boulevards and grand buildings, which is why the city is often called “the Paris of South America.”

While Buenos Aires is a huge city filled with 13 million residents called “portenos” (people of the port), the main tourist areas are concentrated in seven small barrios including Monserrat, where we found the 19th-century Casa Rosada (pink house) in Plaza de Mayo.

The Casa Rosada has been home to many Argentine leaders including

Juan Peron and his charismatic wife, Eva, who famously addressed her adoring public from the palace’s left balcony in1951. Madonna used the same balcony in the movie “Evita” when she sang the film’s theme song “Don’t Cry for Me Argentina”.

Our next stop was the Caminito pedestrian walkway in the Bohemian neighborhood of La Boca, which is surrounded by colorful houses, pretty cafes, and street vendors selling their handmade crafts. The street is lined with sculptures, murals, engravings and tango dancers who perform and pose for pictures with tourists for a few pesos.

Since it was our last day in Buenos Aires, we decided to watch a tango show and dine on some delicious Argentine grilled meats in the barrio of Puerto Madero. After close to a month in South America seeing some of the most spectacular scenery in the world, it seemed like a fitting way to conclude our marvelous journey of discovery, and coincidentally, to celebrate my birthday.

David Moorcroft is a freelance travel writer and cruise blogger. You can find his blog at: www.tripharbor.com/commodoredave/.

One of many beautiful beaches that ring the coastline of Punta del Este in Uruguay.

The Ascensor Concepcion is one of 15 wooden elevators that connect lower and upper Valparaiso, Chile.

75 years apart IN THE

SouthPacific

ic

Cruising through paradise with three generations STORY BY BRIAN HEMSWORTH PHOTOGRAPHY BY JERRI HEMSWORTH

When my family decided to take an intergenerational trip, we looked carefully at our options. My mother, 81 and recently widowed, was healthy enough to travel, but didn’t like spending long periods of time on her feet. Conversely, with my six-year-old daughter, we needed to find a vacation that provided lots of activities and engagement for a young girl. My wife and I just wanted a vacation, so anything sounded good to us.

After exploring vacation home rentals, Disneyworld, driving trips, and rail vacations, we decided on a South Pacific cruise aboard Princess Cruises Tahitian Princess. Time, budget, airfares and language were the deciding factors. Plus, I had been there once before. While more than 30 years had passed since my first trip to the French Polynesia, I liked the concept that I had some idea of what we were getting ourselves into. I knew about the general geography, about the languages (French and Tahitian are both spoken in French Polynesia), the currency, and the weather. Since we were traveling in a group with a 75-year age spread, I wanted as few surprises as possible.

Bora Bora proved to be more majestic than its reputation.

09.2 MAR.APR.MAY / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

75 years apart IN THE

SouthPacific ON TAHITI For a group with an elderly mother, a wife, and a young daughter, we decided to hire a private licensed tour guide on the island, many of whom wait on the docks for cruise ship passengers. We found a nice woman and cut a deal to have our own personal tour.

There are many “formal” sites to see on Tahiti. One can make it around the island in a day, as long as your stops are relatively short. The Paul Gauguin Museum, a highlight of the trip in my youth, would be a bit too far and too much of a rush to make on this trip. The boat was shoving off at 5 pm, so we stayed on the near side of the island, driving slowing along the coast, gazing at the luscious beauty of the island.

One of the most memorable stops was in a rich, wet rain forest, where my wife and I hiked to an incredible waterfall. We chatted with our tour guide,

Maeva (Tahitian for “welcome”), learned about her family, local lore, and the Tahitian economy. The cost of our guided tour was about $80 U.S., about one-third of what the organized trips from the ship would run. Plus, no major complaints—from any generation!

SECRET SHIPBOARD SPOTS At 670 passengers, the Tahitian Princess is a smaller ship than most others in the Princess fleet. For my money, though, it was great. I was fearful of cattle calls for boarding, meals, and shows, but it they never materialized.

Based on a tip we read on CruiseReviews.com, we found that the Tahitian Princess has a small deck on the bow just outside the spa. For $15 a day, or $100 for the whole cruise, you can get a pass to the spa deck. It includes a locker room, showers, Jacuzzi, and private sun deck. What a deal! We never had to fight for a deck chair. We soaked in the hot tub each night after our adventures. We even used it to shower before leaving on our departure day.

Dining was the one formal thing we did on ship. My mom liked going down to the dining room, mingling with other passengers, and showing off her granddaughter. I think my wife and daughter might have preferred just getting a pizza or a hamburger from the snack bar, but we were always happy once we made it to the dining room.

Shortly after sun up our second morning, the captain slowed the engines. We stepped out onto our balcony, and were treated to a vision of unquestionable beauty. Glassy waters kissed the sandy shoreline of one of the greenest, most luscious islands you can imagine. While a few small buildings could be seen, it looked to me much the way any of the Pacific islands must have looked to western explorers a couple of centuries before.

Huahine is little-known island in the South Pacific. Much less traveled than Tahiti, Moorea, or Bora Bora, it’s a trip back in time to an undisturbed place.

It’s not Hawaii or Bermuda or Jamaica.

You won’t find 7-Elevens, McDonald's,

As with all the islands,

One can’t help but respect

the foliage on Raiatea

the sacred religious site

was superb.

when viewing the ruins and sacrificial alter at the Marae on Raiatea.

“Le Truck” on Huahine was not for the faint of heart, or back!

The author and his daughter marvel at the unbelievable colors of the fish and ocean.

The Marae was home of the “sacred trees,” some of which were literally rooted in the ocean.

09.2 MAR.APR.MAY / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

75 years apart IN THE

SouthPacific or Starbucks there. In fact, you’ve got to look pretty hard just to find one of its few small villages. The pace is slow, so lower your expectations for things like table service, taxis, or finding drinks with umbrellas served on the beach.

To get around, we rode in a “Le Truck,” a big, open-door truck that passes for a tourist bus, shuttling people from a small dock to the main village on the island. Its suspension is virtually nonexistent, giving one an experience something like that buckboard stagecoach. For me, a fun experience; for others, not so much. We walked through villages and along beaches, and tried to come to grips with that fact that we were in the beautiful South Pacific.

The next day we were at sea, heading from the Society Islands over to Rarotonga, the capital of the Cook Islands. Technically a part of New Zealand, we actually had to walk though a make-shift customs office in one of the dining rooms, where our passports were stamped.

Rarotonga is much more of a tourist destination, with resorts dotting its beautiful coastline. We put ashore, and after a bit shopping and a snack, hired Charles, a jolly cabbie who didn’t need any conversation starters other than “hello.” We asked if there was a familyfriendly beach anywhere near, and he took us on a 20-minute ride to Muri.

It’s a quaint area with lineup of nottoo-big beachfront resorts. Many places don’t like the cruise traffic coming in and invading their beaches, but Charles brought us right to one that he said welcomed cruisers. We spent the day swimming, reading, and walking up and down the popular beach.

Charles came back at the appointed hour to return us to the docks. As he did, he asked if we would tell our

friends about Rarotonga. He told us how they, unlike some islands in the South Pacific, welcome tourists. “If your friends come, I will get to keep working on this beautiful island,” he said. Well, consider yourselves told.

HOLY GROUND Next stop was back in the Society Islands, on the sacred island of Raiatea.

The itinerary actually lists the stop as Raiatea and Tahaa. A strong golfer could drive a ball between the two islands, but the ship only makes port on Raiatea.

We had made friends with one of the young British bartenders onboard, and asked him where he liked to go when he got off the ship. He rattled off a number of spots, complete with location and names of proprietors.

Another great tip we learned on the Internet came to play on Raiatea. Someone on CruiseCritic.com commented that they rented their own car and drove themselves around the island. It was cheap, easy, and let them go wherever they wanted. The only caveat was that the rental agency only had five cars, so you needed to be one of the first over to the island. I was in the first water taxi ashore. I got to the rent-a-car shack and was second in line.

Raiatea is another beautiful island, but of particular interest is the Taputapuatea Marae. A marae is a sacred religious site, and this one is one of the most well-preserved in all of Polynesia.

It sits in a stunning location, a flat piece of land that leads right up to the ocean’s edge. Marked across the area are stones and alters used by the ancient Polynesians. Raiatea is believed to have been one of the stopping points for ancients who made the journey north to what we now know as Hawaii.

It was quiet and solemn there, as it should be. There were no T-shirt shops, no burger stands, and no postcard racks. There were just a few small signs, educating those who made the journey.

TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE / 09.2 MAR.APR.MAY

As our ship sailed in the late afternoon between Raiatea and Tahaa, we walked to the very bow of the ship to take in the views. Just as we crossed the breakwater in the coral reef that surrounds the islands, we began to feel the waves under the ship. Just then a bit of magic happened. Off the starboard bow, a pod of dolphins escorted us out to sea, not 10 feet from the ship’s edge. Dancing and jumping to the rhythm of the waves cast off by the ship, the cynic in me wondered how Princess Cruises had trained the dolphins to do their dance on cue. It didn’t matter to me, it was a bit of heaven, right here. Yes, Raiatea is a sacred place.

THE JEWELS OF THE PACIFIC Bora Bora is all that one might imagine, and more. It was a destination I hadn’t seen on my previous trip, and one we all really looked forward to. We weren’t disappointed. I won’t try to describe the color of the water, or the sky, or the mountain peaks in Bora Bora.

You wouldn’t believe my description anyway. Standing there on ship, hiking the trails along its stunning peaks, or swimming in its mesmerizing waters, words just simply don’t suffice.

Bora Bora is home to virtually every kind of water sport you can imagine.

You want to dive with sharks? Want to pet a manta ray? Feel the urge to deep sea fish? No problem. We opted for the more serene glass bottom boat: touristy, yes, but delightful just the same. Schools upon schools of brightly colored fish came to feed on the chum put out by the young assistant, who swam along with us, drawing the fish in closer and closer.

We rented a car after the glass bottom boat, and made our way around the island. We had ample time to head back to beach we had seen, savor a great meal at a local restaurant, and spend a few hours soaking up paradise.

My daughter received a bit of an ed-

ucation at that beach. While I was busy snorkeling with mantra rays (yes, just 20 feet off the beach), my daughter noticed that some of the women were wearing, shall we say, incomplete bathing suits. My wife had to explain how women from different places wear different kinds of suits.

Some wear little or nothing at all. My daughter took it in stride, thankfully.

Another evening passage to our final port, and we reached the tropic jewel of Moorea. Not as well known as Bora Bora, but equally stunning, Moorea is just 9 miles from Tahiti. It is rumored to be the mythical island “Bali Hai” immortalized by author James Michener. Moorea has all the water attractions one could want, including a new dolphin experience. For us, it was bittersweet that we had come to Moorea, because it signaled the last full day of our trip. As our ship set sail that evening back to Papeete, I wiped my eyes, sensing tears forming.

If there was one place on this whole earth my whole family could return to again and again, it would be Moorea.

PARTING SHOTS As timetables would have it, we arrived in Papeete just an hour later.

Those young at heart, and yearning for nightlife, could dance the night away in town. We, on the other hand, chose to savor our last dinner, our last hot tub, and our last evening on board.

The ship required we vacate our rooms at an obscenely early time. But as promised, here’s the second half of our great Internet secret. We had the run of the ship for the day. We did a little shopping in the morning, but returned to the ship for lunch.

Though our bags were taken ashore at dawn for transportation to the airport, we had kept our bathing suits (another online tip). Our spa passes were still good, so we made the most of the day with some more sun, swimming,

Despite a 75-year age difference, Moorea was undeniably the most intriguing of the islands for everyone in the family.

Rarotonga had its own New Zealand charm and elegance.

Bora Bora beaches were truly spectacular.

and private lounging on what still felt like our private deck. As evening approached, we showered in the spa, and boarded the buses for the airport.

Traveling with my mom, my wife and my daughter far exceeded my expectations. I would find it hard to pick a better trip for three generations to enjoy, but I’m sure there are rivals out

there. In fact, I’m searching for our next one right now. Bon voyage!

Brian Hemsworth has written more than 100 travel, business and sports articles for publications around the world. He is currently the president of Newman Grace Inc., a marketing and design firm in Los Angeles. He can be reached at bhemsworth@newmangrace.com.

09.2 MAR.APR.MAY / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE / 09.2 MAR.APR.MAY

Be

Enchanted On A Short Family Cruise Explore these 12 tips on making your family vacation the success you long for STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY

BY NANCY SCHRETTER

On-board ship activities abound for the family with kids of all ages.

Many cash-crunched families are taking shorter vacations this year. Luckily, the cruise industry’s expanded array of quick getaways is well suited to fit their budget constraints. These three- to five-day sailings depart from a wide variety of U.S. ports, making them easily accessible. In addition, short cruises are an excellent value and provide first-time cruisers with an opportunity to test the waters before taking a longer voyage.

If your family is craving a cheap vacation getaway, a short cruise may be just right for you.

My family took a five-day escape on Royal Caribbean’s Enchantment of the Seas and came away hooked on the experience. Exciting ports and onshore adventures combined with highoctane onboard entertainment make short cruises a great vacation choice for type-A families.

When planning a short cruise, it’s important to pick the ship and itinerary best suited to your family’s needs. Here are some factors to consider in choosing the right one for you: Homeport convenience. Short cruises depart from a number of drive-to-port cities, cutting out travel hassles and eliminating the cost of airfare.

09.2 MAR.APR.MAY / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

For families on a budget, the short getaways are the perfect antidote.

This year, families can find short cruises sailing from homeports in states such as Massachusetts, Maryland, New Jersey, New York, Virginia, South Carolina, Florida, Alabama, Texas, Louisiana, California and Washington.

Itinerary. If your family has cruised often, you may wish to choose an itinerary that includes some exciting new destinations. For example, the Enchantment of the Seas’ five-day sailing calls at Key West, Cozumel and Belize City. Other short cruises visit Bermuda, the Bahamas, Turks & Caicos, Grand Cayman, and a variety of ports in Mexico and Canada. Relaxing days at private islands are popular and European short cruises are available this year as well. The number of in-port and sea days varies, so choose the itinerary that best fits your family’s preferences.

Shipboard amenities. Familyfriendly amenities are important in choosing the right ship for a short family cruise. Royal Caribbean’s Enchantment truly delivers in this category.

The ship features a beautiful water park area and sun deck with two pools, four whirlpools, and a colorful splash deck with 64 jets of spraying water to delight the kids. Adults and teens 18

and over congregate in the Solarium on rainy and windy days. This spot, with its retractable glass roof and windows, is home to two large whirlpools and is an ideal place to relax in all types of weather. Adventure-seekers head for the ship’s Jump Zone and rock-climbing wall. At night, teens enjoy the ship’s Fuel disco while adults savor the 360-degree views in the Viking Crown Lounge atop the ship.

Dining venues. When choosing a ship, consider your family’s flexibility needs and dining preferences. If you detest fixed dining times and your kids are unlikely to sit through a two-hour dinner, check for casual dining spots and look for cruise lines that offer freestyle dining, such as Norwegian Cruise Line. Norwegian’s ships are packed with a wide variety of comewhen-you-wish restaurants, informal eateries and 24-hour dining options.

Kids and teens programs. It’s important to consider each cruise line’s programs in light of your family’s needs and children’s ages. Each cruise line has a differing array of kids, teens and family programs, and some ships offer more dedicated kids and family spaces than others. Dedicated kids and teens spaces

TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE / 09.2 MAR.APR.MAY

often make a major difference in program participation, so check into the available amenities before choosing your ship.

Keep in mind the ages of your children when choosing a cruise line and ship for your short cruise. For example, if your family includes infants and/or toddlers, Disney Cruise Line offers on-board nurseries for children 12 weeks of age and older, while additional cruise lines provide group childcare options for 2 year olds who are not potty-trained (Carnival Cruise Lines, Disney and Norwegian), inroom babysitting services (Royal Caribbean and Celebrity), and special family programs for little ones (Disney and Royal Caribbean). In addition, short cruises on Royal Caribbean, Carnival and Disney Cruise Line also offer a variety of family activities.

Family staterooms. Newer cruise ships tend to have more balcony cabins and staterooms specially designed for families. Look for a short cruise on a ship that will allow you to enjoy some of these options. A series of family cabins are available on Royal Caribbean ships, including a Family Royal Suite that offers a Jacuzzi tub, an enormous balcony, and room for eight. Disney Cruise Line offers some of the largest

Royal Caribbean’s Enchantment of the Seas offers family cabins that can accommodate up to eight.

standard staterooms on the high seas and their family staterooms easily accommodate families of five with a sleep sofa and wall-mounted Murphy bed.

SHORT AND SWEET CRUISE TIPS Short cruises have a more compressed feel, but they’re great vacations for families with tight time or budget constraints. If you decide to just sail away, here are a few tips to ensure you’ll be enchanted with your short cruise experience: Decide on a budget. Additional costs for shore excursions, sodas and drinks, spa treatments, arcade games and Internet charges can add up quickly – even on a short cruise. Determine what your budget will allow and let the family know. Take advantage of money saving programs, such as soda cards for kids and teens.

Make your shore excursion reservations early. Get the family together in advance of your cruise and decide what you want to do at each port. This will save time while onboard the ship and help avoid disappointment when shore excursions sell out. Shore excursions often can be purchased a few months before departure, so visit the cruise line’s

website to see if advance reservations can be made. Weigh the options offered by the ship along with independent shore excursion opportunities. Message boards at www.cruisecritic.com and www.cruisemates.com can offer good insights and suggestions.

Work out your dining arrangements. Check out the available restaurant options. If you did not receive the dining time or table size of choice, visit the dining room as soon as you arrive onboard and find out if changes can be made. In addition, if you’d like to try out the alternative restaurants, make those reservations as soon as you arrive onboard the ship.

Explore the ship and find out what’s available. Once you find your cabin and get settled, take some time to look around the ship. Many families like to bring walkie-talkies onboard to allow parents to stay in touch while kids are on their own—and this is a great time to try them out. In addition, make sure to check the ship’s newsletter to learn about the entertainment and activities planned for the day.

Sign up for youth programs as soon as possible. If your kids are planning to participate in the ship’s kids and teens

programs, it’s important to get them comfortable and involved as soon as possible. Make sure to visit the appropriate age group areas, sign them up for the program, have a look around, and strongly encourage them to participate in the first scheduled event.

Friendships are often forged in the first evening and participation on that night can make all the difference— especially on a short cruise. In addition, if your cruise line offers in-room babysitting and you’d like to take advantage of this option, book your dates and times as soon as you get onboard.

Relax and get ready to set sail.

Come aboard, unpack, and get into the short cruise frame of mind. As the ship leaves the pier, join the gang at the sail away party and leave all your worries behind. When it comes to fun, these wallet-pleasing short cruises are definitely in the money.

Nancy Schretter is an award-winning travel writer and editor with more than 14 years experience in travel journalism and publishing.

Nancy founded the Family Travel Network and has served as its Managing Editor since its launch as an America Online Partner in 1995.

She is also the Cruises Editor for BellaOnline.

09.2 MAR.APR.MAY / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

a modern

polar ad for everyone

PHOTO: ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE / 09.2 MAR.APR.MAY

dventure An Antarctic journey on the newest polar cruise ship STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY CAROLE HERDEGEN

Until recently, adventure travelers the world over have only dreamed of someday leaving their footprint on Antarctica, our planet’s 7th continent. But today, those dreams can come true. >>>

09.2 MAR.APR.MAY / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

a modern

polar adventure for everyone

>>> 1.

In 2007, the travel world welcomed the launching of the first high tech polar expedition cruise ship, the MS FRAM, from the Norwegian shipping company, Hurtigruten.

>>> 2.

My journey began in Chile.

After two days of sightseeing in Santiago, the city known as the “cleanest capital� in South America, I traveled by land through the beautiful Chilean wine region to the coastal port city of Valparaiso. There I boarded the MS FRAM for an unforgettable adventure.

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>>> 3. After two days at sea, our first landing was the Chilean port city of Puerto Montt, the gateway to the Lake District. The view was a picture postcard featuring magnificent lakes, turquoise rivers and glacier-formed valleys surrounded by snow-capped volcanoes.

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12 >>> 4.

During the following days of cruising, the Andes Mountains offered spectacular views. This picturesque mountain chain extends over seven countries and ends at the tip of Chile. As we navigated through the fjords, one can only wonder how many millennia it took to create this natural setting.

>>> 5.

On day 5, after docking in the port of Puerta Natales, we traveled by bus to Torres del Paine National Park with its spire mountain peaks and aqua lakes.

>>> 6. Punta Arenas in Chilean Patagonia was our next short stay.

There we observed the Magellan pen-

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guins. As it was nesting time, they had left the sea and were returning to their underground burrows.

>>> 7.

Our next stop was Tierre del Fuego (the Land of Fire). We were now on the southern route to Cape Horn through the Cockburn and Beagle Channels. Our next adventure would 09.2 MAR.APR.MAY / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

a modern

polar adventure for everyone

be the dreaded Drake Passage which has swallowed men and ships since there were sailors on the seas.

At the Cape, we climbed to view the relief sculpture of an albatross in flight, a commemoration to those lost at sea.

From here onwards, we would be sailing to the great white wilderness by the same route taken by explorers, seal and whale hunters and today’s polar scientists.

>>> 8. & 9.

Our next landings were made on desolate islands. There we saw nesting penguins and seals resting on the beaches. On Aitcho Island, we observed three kinds of penguins; the chinstraps, the gentoos and king penguins.

>>> 10. & 11.

As we sailed further along the Antarctic Peninsula, the beauty

of the mountains, glaciers, sea ice and icebergs was everywhere. Antarctica is a continent ringed by an ocean and covers almost one-tenth of the earth’s surface.

>>> 12. & 13.

For the next 6 days, MS FRAM made landings on the peninsula and the mainland. Each landing was unique. Some contained the homes of various animals and bird species while others housed scientific research stations.

>>> 14.

Next stop was Whaler’s Bay on Deception Island, part of a volcanic caldera. The hot surface meeting the cold air and sea produced an eerie fog over this deserted whaling station that began in 1905 and as a consequence to a mudslide; its structures were abandoned to the elements in 1967

>>> 15. & 16. Walker Bay on the island of Livingston was our final landing. Like an “open air” museum, it offered an interesting collection of fossils and a shoreline covered with southern elephant seals that could provide an entire day of photography.

No one can leave Antarctica without strong feelings. Apart from wishing everyone could personally visit this incredible place, our sincerest hope is that the countries of the Antarctic Treaty continue to protect and preserve this valuable, natural asset of our planet.

Michigan writer Carole Herdegen is the Editor and Travel Consultant of TravelSite.com, the host site of her travel magazine, TravelQuest with Carole Herdegen.

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TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE / 09.2 MAR.APR.MAY

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Discover the Essence of

Nassau Practical steps to open new doors STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY

BY CHRISTINE TIBBETTS

Doing research before a cruise opens doors beyond the gangway. I found three remarkable options in Nassau beyond the ship’s organized stops, plus a fine walking tour.

In Nassau catch the #10 bus on Bay Street, head west for $1 and ask to get off at Nettie’s. The bus stop is two blocks from Prince George Wharf where my Carnival Fascination docked; Nettie’s is a Bahamian experience. Nettie Symonette is an island woman protecting and sharing her culture. She’s a self-declared minimalist, telling me “I don’t wear underwear or shoes any more. I am back to the simple days of life when I was a girl in Eleuthera.”

You can be back to her basics too for $10 and a few hours, any day except Tuesday, strolling the grounds, experiencing her paintings, tasting leaves of indigenous plants like bay geranium and playing dominoes on tree stumps under the leafy branches.

Nettie collects 300-year-old pots, enamel water pitchers, metal measuring cans and very old sewing machines. “The girls all watch TV now and don’t know how to sew,” she laments. She’s a teller of tales and unfolds quite a few in her one-room schoolhouse and outdoor story-telling area.

“I’m not a spiritual person,” she says,“but I believe in a higher power. Where else do the ideas for my paintings come from? I saw something as I slept, and then I saw something and then I saw something, and so I did eight paintings.”

Nettie’s grounds and museum keep expanding with plantings for tea and medicines so she can energize and heal in ancient ways, and show visitors how things used to be…and maybe still should.

Chew fast because she pulls off big clumps of leaves, explaining what they’re for and then hands you another.

You’re expected to comply. I boosted my immune system 10 TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE / 09.2 MAR.APR.MAY

Color is plentiful in Nassau with regard to its architecture and people.

PHOTO: ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

09.2 MAR.APR.MAY / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

TOP: Elaborate hand-made costumes from previous Junkanoo parades in

TOP: Cruise ships often tie Key West to Nassau as a port of call and in-

Nassau are on display in the Educulture center, museum and workshop.

depth discoveries abound there too. The Customs House houses eight

ABOVE: Simple never figures in to a Junkanoo costume in Nassau; the

galleries of art and history.

teenager in this remarkable bird creation marched and danced in the

ABOVE: Asa Tift’s 1850s salvage business turned shipwrecks into profits and

annual Junior Junkanoo parade Dec. 11.

actor Richard Derreth tells the story in the Key West Shipwreck Historeum.

TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE / 09.2 MAR.APR.MAY

Discover the Essence of

Nassau

different ways in five minutes. And that was just the front yard.

“Many things we don’t really need,” Nettie claims. “I eat Cheerios by hand—no milk. I don’t eat anything with thin skin, only thick. Beans are good, and so are fish, conch and grits.

“Basic is the way to eat,” Nettie says.

To help travelers do so, she’s opening a 15-unit hotel with cafe. Cruise ship visitors who spent just part of a day can go back to Nassau and book a few nights.

Wouldn’t be for everyone, considering the posh hotels and resorts visible on West Bay Street from the bus en route to Nettie’s, but it would be and immersion in local culture and heritage, very good reasons to travel and not always so easy to discover.

Expect small meals served on tin plates hand painted by Nettie.“Soup is going to be very big here, using my own recipes,” Nettie says,“and cooking lessons. You can’t go any place in this world doing what I do,”she claims.“Rooms are secondary; you can get a hotel room anywhere.”

The hotel and café are on the ocean side of the road with private beach access and an outdoor massage area.

Just the opposite—abundant energy— is the case if you get yourself from the ship to a Junkanoo costume shed.

E-mail Educulture Bahamas Ltd. before you sail and they’ll pick you up at the dock. That’s the place to steep in Junkanoo traditions. New Orleans music and marching, we know, and the splendid costumes of Mummers in Philadelphia. The Junkanoos of the Bahamas are their ancestors, loaded with creativity, energy and joie de vivre.

You’re unlikely to stumble across this Junkanoo costume museum and current-day workshop even if you’re strolling the Nassau shops, so a con-

tact ahead of time is a vital plan. Only Disney cruises book the Junkanoos as a port of call, the Center’s researcher Alecca Ramsey told me.

African people brought to the Bahamas by the British celebrated joyously for three days at Christmas when they were released from their labors, Ramsey explained, concealing their identity in costumes of symmetrical strips of rags or newspaper, from sponges retrieved from the sea and with plaited straw.

Today’s costumes are elaborate themes rising high above shoulders and heads and following the design of the historic costumes on display in Educulture. Tissue paper is often the medium, cut strip by strip in identical lengths, sometimes trimmed with barber shears to become short fringe, and always meticulously glued one piece at a time to achieve a particular color design.

These amazing costumes are layered and Ramsey says that’s on purpose.

“African history consists of many layers,” she says. “We cook in layers too and the Junkanoo reflect this. We no longer hide in the bushes but we parade on Main Street,” Ramsey says.

“Bahamians love to party.”

At least 30 big groups, some with 100 people or more—families, neighborhoods, civic organizations—build themed costumes every year, competing fiercely for awards for style, theme, music and marching presentation.

Many of the winners can be seen in the Educulture, as well as historic costumes and instruments.

When you book a cruise to Nassau, try to choose a date with a Junkanoo parade; the Ministry of Tourism Web site can help. Shoulder-to-shoulder with local people having fun their traditional ways gives meaning to travel. Snagging an invitation to their home is even better. The Bahamas People to People program (local volunteers share their culture) will invite you to lunch, church

or a civic club meeting if you call ahead.

The Bahamas Ministry of Tourism sponsors year-round encounters, matching visitors with residents of similar interests. Additional wonder: it’s free. The last Friday of every month, People to People serves tea at 4 p.m. in Government House.

OTHER ACTIVITIES Just $10 gets you a 45-minute guided walking tour from Festival Place at Prince George Wharf where ships dock. Walks start at 10 a.m. and head out every 90 minutes.

The fabled straw market burned Sept.

13, 2001, and rebuilding is in the plans. I’d recommend heading for Bay Street and some lovely international shops. Shirley is the banking street and art is on display in the foyer of the Central Bank.

The National Art Gallery is within reach as is the Pompey Museum with 18th century history to the present, and local Bahamian art changing frequently.

Hard to be hungry as a cruise ship traveler, but the Graycliff restaurant in a 1740 mansion boasts five stars and might be something to plan in advance for reservations.

IF YOU GO Bahamas Ministry of Tourism www.bahamas.com 242-302-2000 People to People Experience www.bahamas.com Enter people to people in search bar peopletopeople@bahamas.com Educulture Bahamas Ltd. and Junkanoo Museum www.educulturebahamas.com info@educulturebahamas.com Difference of Nassau nettiesplace@batelnet.bs .

Christine Tibbetts is an award-winning writer from Georgia who has written for the Tifton Gazette, the Dallas Morning News and Retire in Georgia Magazine.

09.2 MAR.APR.MAY / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

Cruisin’ Fun

WithoutT

Kayaking in Ketchikan’s Whiskey Creek.

TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE / 09.2 MAR.APR.MAY

TheWeight Healthy cruising in Alaska STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY SUE FRAUSE

One of the main reasons I avoided going on a cruise for so many years was the food factor. I’d heard horror stories about cruisers gaining from 2-12 pounds on a weeklong cruise, and the image of me

rolling off a ship after seven days at sea was not a pretty picture.

So it was with a bit of apprehension that I made my cruise debut aboard Holland America’s MS Oosterdam. Along with 1,799 other passengers and 795

crew members, I was on the Alaskan Explorer cruise, with stops in Juneau, Yakutat Bay and the Hubbard glacier, Sitka, Ketchikan and Victoria, BC. The gigantic floating hotel has 11 decks, nine pianos, two swimming

09.2 MAR.APR.MAY / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

Cruisin’ Fun

WithoutTheWeight

pools and one internet cafĂŠ. There is also the Greenhouse Spa and Salon and Fitness Center. My home for the week was a deluxe verandah cabin furnished in tropical colors with a king-size bed, small sofa and chair, TV, ample closet space and a bathroom with a tub/shower.

The MS Oosterdam serves 11,000 meals a day, which is a lot of calories.

This was going to be a challenge! In addition to the Lido Restaurant with its numerous food stations serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, there is the Vista Dining Room and the Pinnacle Grill. There are also nine bars and cafes, 24-hour room service and a

mini-bar in each cabin.

In addition to trying to maintain a healthy diet, I also wanted to spend time outdoors. The Promenade Deck was my venue for daily walks that included six laps (three laps equals one mile). I figured walking two miles a day would keep things in check, even if I did splurge by eating a hot fudge sundae at midnight.

As much as I got into the rhythm of life on the Oosterdam, I was looking forward to discovering Alaska from the outside, too. Seven of us signed up for a bike and hike excursion in Sitka, which was a three-hour trip that included a four-mile coastal bike ride and a mile-

Bicycling to Thimbleberry Lake in Ketchikan.

TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE / 09.2 MAR.APR.MAY

long trek through the Tongass National Forest. It was an easy ride to the trailhead where we hiked into Thimbleberry Lake. From there we broke into two groups, depending on our biking ability. Our group did some intense peddling, navigating up a steep hill to picturesque Blue Lake. Okay, I pushed my bike part of the way, but the trip back down was a thrill!

In Ketchikan, I was the lone kayaker on a 2.5 hour trip. My friendly guide put me in the front position of a twoperson kayak and off we paddled. Our route started in Thomas Basin, and from there we made our way through historic Creek Street, crossed the Ton-

Holland America bakes its own bread on board. But keep your consumption in check.

gass Narrows across to Pennock Island and paddled through Whiskey Cove.

The grey skies were threatening, but only a spattering of rain came our way. A few days earlier, I wimped out on a rafting trip down the Mendanhall River in Juneau due to a severe downpour.

So how did I fare after a week of all that food and fun? Very well, indeed.

Not only did I thoroughly enjoy life on a cruise ship, I didn’t gain a single pound. And yes, I’m ready to get back on board.

TIPS FOR A HEALTHY WEEK AT SEA ■ Use the stairs. Cruise ships have elevators, but I used the stairs instead of getting a free ride

■ Use the Promenade Deck. At any time of day, passengers can be seen doing laps around the ship. I always walk with my iPod, mixing my tunes with the spectacular views.

■ Use the spa and fitness center. I treated myself to a manicure, pedicure and hot stone massage. Perfect remedies for all that outdoor exercise I was enjoying.

■ Sign up for active shore excursions. Whether it’s dog sledding or snorkeling, head for shore and take in the scenery with one of the local guides.

■ Eat wisely. I only dined on the Lido Deck twice; all those food stations were too tempting. I usually ate breakfast and lunch in the Vista Dining Room or

had room service. Lunch and dinner menus include a light and healthy section, and special dietary needs can be accommodated.

IF YOU GO Holland America Line; www.hollandamerica.com.

Sue Frause is an award winning freelance writer and photographer. She has been published in The (Everett) Daily Herald, Seattle Post-Intelligencer, The (Vancouver) Province, Boston Herald, Seattle magazine, Seattle Bride magazine, Northwest Travel, TravelAge West as well as on Around the World Travel Radio, www.vagablond.com, www.spas.about.com, and www.tangodiva.com. She can be reached at sue@suefrause.com.

09.2 MAR.APR.MAY / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

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SPORTS & SIGHTS

Changes in the Wind for Baseball

SPRING TRAINING WHETHER IN ARIZONA OR FLORIDA, FANS CAN STILL REJOICE

By Dan Schlossberg

My Aunt Phyllis, who passed away earlier this year just short of her 105th birthday, wasn’t far off when she referred to my annual March trip as “spring cleaning.”

Baseball players need six weeks to dust off the cobwebs of winter, while managers have to cleanse their rosters, dropping from nearly 100 invitees at the start to the chosen 25 proscribed for the varsity roster.

Fans need time to dust off, too—to reacquaint themselves not only with their favorite teams but their favorite sport.

The routine is roughly the same at all 30 majorleague camps: pitchers report first, along with the catchers needed to handle them, with full squads coming a week later, a series of intra-squad scrimmages, and then up to three dozen exhibition games that don’t count in anyone’s mind but the manager’s.

Although spring training usually runs from Valentine’s Day to April Fool’s Day, give or take a few groundhogs, its echoes persist throughout the summer.

That’s especially true this year, since Vero Beach was suddenly left vacant by the Dodgers in a move locals labeled the second abandonment of Brooklyn.

After 60 years, the pristine complex created as Dodgertown in 1948 could have hosted the Orioles, Nationals, or any number of clubs unhappy in their current locales. Its location is both ideal and idyllic, sitting not far from Florida’s Atlantic coast in an Indian River community packed with more oranges than people.

Orlando, with its Mickey Mouse ears, sits northwest, with the tony towns of Palm Beach, Boca Raton, and Fort Lauderdale lined up along I-95 like TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE / 09.2 MAR.APR.MAY

fans waiting in line for tickets.

Jupiter, at the north end of Palm Beach County, hosts the only ballpark with two resident teams: Roger Dean Stadium, spring home of both the St. Louis Cardinals and Florida Marlins.

That means there’s a game every day, though the Cards are a better draw because the Fish feed on selling tickets to locals who can watch them 81 times a year at Dolphin Stadium, a rain-plagued stadium that should never have been allowed to go topless in the tropical summer.

While the Marlins are the only team to go south from spring training, they’ll soon have lots of company. Unlike spring training, when all teams voice equal optimism, the fortunes of most go south after the passage of several months separates the contenders from the pretenders.

Exhibition games are the big draw during spring training, though attendance was hurt this year by the ill-timed competition of the World Baseball Classic. That event left virtually every team without its top stars well into March. The New York Mets, for example, were missing 16 men when camp opened and half their starting lineup until Team USA and Puerto Rico were eliminated.

Thankfully, that won’t happen again until 2013— unless saner heads switch the tournament to November, filling the gap between the World Series and winter meetings.

In the meantime, Florida and Arizona are expected to continue their tug-of-war for teams.

Blessed by better proximity of teams, the Cactus League has created a prickly problem by being so

ABOVE: USA Chipper.

PHOTO: BILL MENZEL

FAR LEFT: Chipper Jones and David Wright.

PHOTO: BILL MENZEL

LEFT: St. Patrick’s Day at Scottsdale Stadium.

PHOTO: CACTUSLEAGUE.COM

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SPORTS & SIGHTS

successful at luring teams from the Grapefruit circuit. In 2010, for the first time, each state will have 15 teams, forcing at least two teams per day to split their squads and create an even number of games.

Denizens of Cactus country will include Arizona, both Chicagos, Cincinnati, Cleveland, Colorado, Kansas City, both Los Angeles clubs, Milwaukee, Oakland, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, and Texas.

Sunrise, Arizona, Complex.

PHOTO: CACTUSLEAGUE.COM

Getting the squeeze in the Grapefruit League will be Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Detroit, Florida, Houston, Minnesota, both New Yorks, Philadelphia, Pittsburgh, St. Louis, Tampa Bay, Toronto, and Washington.

Since spring training means millions to each local economy, Florida won’t continue to lose business without a fight. In 2007, for example, fans attending Cactus League games spent $310,775,015—and that was before the Reds, Indians, and Dodgers arrived on the scene.

Cleveland left Winter Haven, Fla., when the town of Goodyear offered to house it in a $75 million complex called Ballpark Village. The Dodgers, wanting to be closer to their Los Angeles fan base, agreed to share a new complex in Glendale with the Chicago

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White Sox, moving north from Tucson. That move left Tucson with the D’backs and Rockies, with everybody else in the Valley of the Sun network anchored by Phoenix and Scottsdale.

Fans love spring training because of the relaxed, casual atmosphere. Games are played in compact parks where access to players is easy and autographs are as plentiful as hot dogs. Heroes of the past, including such Hall of Famers as Yogi Berra and Sandy Koufax, show up as special instructors. Best of all, food and tickets carry minor-league price-tags.

Public address announcers delight in giving the current temperature as well as the temperature at the home team’s regular-season stadium.

Even the music is tongue-in-cheek, with Roger Dean Stadium airing Darth Vader music when the umpires make their initial appearance.

Fields have natural grass, most games are played in daylight, and nobody cares who wins or loses. What could be better?

Spring training, almost a secret ritual before official baseball discovered a potential gold mine, has become such a hot travel destination that many vacationers are already planning for 2010.

That includes those who plan to combine Disney World, spring break, and baseball with a stay in Kissimmee,Lake Buena Vista, or other Orlando suburbs.

Since renting a house is far more economical than renting a room, families and friends are already calling a half-dozen house rental companies near Disney. The best of them, All-Star Vacation Homes, offers houses of various sizes and descriptions. Most have heated pools and Jacuzzis, game rooms, computers with WiFi, in-home movie theaters, multiple bedrooms, several TVs, DVD and CD players, large kitchens, and car rental discounts and mid-stay housekeeping upon request.

For more information, see www.allstarvacationhomes.com or call 800-692-5568 or 407-997-0733.

Former AP newsman Dan Schlossberg of Fair Lawn, New Jersey, has covered baseball spring training since 1971. A nationally published travel writer, he is also the author of 34 baseball books. See more on spring training at www.baseballbits.com, one of Dan’s Web sites.

* VEGAS SENIOR TRAVEL

Offers Much More Than Gambling BARGAINS, ACTIVITIES BECKON

By Victor Block

My first stop was the Eiffel Tower, where I oohed and aahed over views from the observation deck 50 stories above ground. Next I wandered among splashing fountains and graceful statues reminiscent of ancient Rome. Then came a gentle canal ride as a gondolier serenaded his passengers in Italian. Finally, I decided, it was time for lunch.

This truncated ‘round-the-world tour was not the result of magical time travel. I was in Las Vegas, where touches of other cities and countries, present and past, are among the wealth of wonders that awaits visitors.

While Vegas is known primarily as a gambling Mecca, I was there for everything else it has to offer, and what a full menu there is.

To begin, one could spend days experiencing “The Strip” — the four-mile stretch of Las Vegas Boulevard where most of the largest hotels are located. Many properties a list of things to see and do, some free and others reasonably priced, that can fill several days of non-stop activity.

The Eiffel Tower that soars above the scene is a halfsize replica of the Paris original. My Roman sojourn took place at Caesar’s Palace hotel, where Julius himself might feel at home. The gondola ride actually took place in the lobby of the Venetian Hotel.

The hotels compete to outdo their neighbors in terms of sheer drama. In front of Treasure Island, where I stayed, I watched a band of lovely temptresses aboard a sailing ship engage in a heated battle with a pirate vessel, which sank before the fascinated audience. Music, sword fights, firing canons TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE / 09.2 MAR.APR.MAY

and a human-size talking parrot are among features of this free extravaganza, which is played out four times each evening.

Other megahotels offer their own inducements to attract people to stop by, come in and, they hope, visit their casino. A corner of the Bellagio’s lobby is transformed into a botanical garden complete with an oversize waterwheel, talking tree and extensive floral displays that change with the season. Nearby is a Gallery of Fine Art where works by the likes of Andy Warhol and Roy Lichtenstein are displayed.

Do you enjoy visiting zoos? The Lion Habitat at the MGM Grand provides as close-up encounters with the King of the Jungle as you’re likely to experience anywhere.

I spent an hour and could have stayed longer at the Shark Reef at Mandalay Bay While sharks are the major attraction at the only predator-based aquarium in North America, gold crocodile, endangered Komodo Dragons and schools of colorful Caribbean reef fish are among other inhabitants.

Both land and sea life also awaits visitors to Siegfried & Roy’s Secret Garden and Dolphin Retreat at The Mirage. Outside pools are home to several dolphins, and an underwater viewing area offers opportunities to admire those endearing creatures at close range.

In the land section of the Garden leopards, white and snow tigers, and white and tawny lions prowl in habitats that are enhanced with trees, climbing rocks and waterfalls.

After dark, Las Vegas earns its reputation as “Entertainment Capital of the World.” On any night,

Rat Pack is Back show: (L-R) “Joey Bishop, Sammy Davis, Jr., Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin” PHOTO: LAS VEGAS NEWS BUREAU/LVCVA

The Strip at night.

PHOTO: RETINA2020/DREAMSTIME.COM

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SENIOR TRAVEL

Springs Preserve with The Strip skyline in distance.

PHOTO: SPRINGS PRESERVE

world-class performers like Tom Jones, Elton John, Jerry Seinfeld, David Copperfield, and Donny and Marie Osmond appear on stage.

A nod to nostalgia directed me to “The Rat Pack is Back,” which recaptures the time when Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, Joey Bishop and Sammy Davis, Jr., the stages, and nightclubs, of the city. Realistic impersonators sing, dance and banter, and “Marilyn Monroe” adds to the fun with a show-stopping appearance.

Some days were spent exploring nearby attractions that beckon visitors away from the Strip. The Springs Preserve is but a short drive away, but very far in terms of setting and story. One exhibit depicts the geological and biological formation and history of the Mojave Desert. Another illustrates how animal and plant life adapt to the harsh, barren environment. A video and other displays describe construction of Hoover Dam, which may be visited on day-trips from Las Vegas.

Outside, an eight-acre botanical garden and over two miles of gentle hiking trails provide opportunities to explore various desert environments and view native plant, animal and bird life that have moved in.

For a very different aspect of the area’s history, I signed up for a half-day Pink Jeep Tour to Eldorado Canyon and the oldest and most famous gold mine in southern Nevada . The trip included explorations of roads and ravines inaccessible to most vehicles, but it was the Techatticup Mine that has the most fascinating story to tell.

After being located in 1861, it produced millions of dollars in gold ore as miners used picks and shovels to dig three miles of tunnels, working by candlelight.

A guide pointed out traces of candle wax still stuck to rock walls and remnants of precious metal glistening in the candlelight. She also related exciting stories of times when gunfights over gold and women transformed the canyon into a rowdy place that even lawmen refused to enter.

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Nature preserves and mining lore may not be the main temptations that have transformed Las Vegas into a city that never sleeps. However, they’re among countless attractions that offer alternatives for those seeking respite from the slot machines and gaming tables, or for whom those pursuits hold no appeal at all.

IF YOU GO The economic downturn has spurred a rush of special discounts that allow just about anyone to live like a “high roller.” How often can you book a room for $79 at an AAA-rated four-diamond resort hotel?

While prices vary, that bargain was offered recently at Treasure Island, and it’s typical of those at other hotels as well that can stretch your travel budget. For more information, call 800-944-7444 or visit treasureisland.com.

When it comes to dining, the famous low-cost “Las Vegas buffet” still lives, most often off the Strip. That can mean breakfast for less than $6, and dinners costing $8.95 for prime rib, $9.99 for steak and shrimp scampi, and $12.99 for crab leg buffet.

To splurge on a more memorable meal, you can’t do better than the Brand Steakhouse in the Monte Carlo Resort. A perfectly grilled oversize steak was more than adequate for two. For more information call 800-311-8999 or visit montecarlo.com.

Another special treat was dinner at Twin Creeks in the Silverton Hotel. It draws a loyal following of locals attracted by the magnificent presentations, impeccable service and, of course, food. Twin Creeks Classics, beginning at $17, include prime rib and other entrees accompanied by salad and two side dishes. For more information call 866-946-4373 or visit silvertoncasino.com.

For more information about Las Vegas, including the budget-stretching discounts now available, call 877-847-4858 or visit visitlasvegas.com.

Victor Block is an established, award-winning travel journalist whose work has appeared in a variety of major outlets for over a quarter-century. His specialties include off-beat travel, overseas destinations and seniors travel. He augments basic information with an introduction to the people, culture and essence of places he visits. He currently focuses on newspaper travel features. He is based in Washington, D.C., and can be reached at shayphred@aol.com.

* LEFKARA: ARTS & ARCHITECTURE

The Lace Village HOW ONE TOWN IS TRYING TO KEEP AN ANCIENT ART FORM ALIVE Story and Photos By Michelle Newman

Tucked away and nestled in the foothills of the Troodos Mountains in the southeast of Cyprus is a charming village with old stone buildings, cobblestone streets, narrow winding alleys, and a colorful past.

Locals believe that the name Lefkara comes from the words “Lefka Oria� referring to the surrounding

Lace making and embroidery is a 2,000-year-old Cypriot tradition.

white limestone mountains of the area. Located between Larnaka and Limassol, Lefkara is a quaint sleepy village renowned for its exquisite lace.

Lace making and embroidery is a 2,000-year-old Cypriot tradition. Historically, Lefkara is the most fa-

mous of all the villages around for its elaborate lace, although there are a handful of villages scattered in rural areas specializing in other types of lace made with different techniques. Omodos village is known for their needle woven lace using a looping technique similar to one that is used for making fishnets.

For over 600 years, the lace making tradition has been passed down from generation to generation, through grandmothers and mothers to daughters.

Villagers took great pride in this hand craft. The lace ladies lovingly make Lefkaritika lace using the same techniques that were introduced by the Venetian noblewomen during the Venetian occupation from 1489 through 1571. The Venetian ladies summered in the cool mountains of Lefkara to escape the heat of the cities. As a result of exposure to the Venetian lace, the Lefkara lace makers adapted and incorporated some of the new techniques while adding their own spin.

It is reputed that Leonardo da Vinci visited Lefkara and commissioned an elaborately embroidered lace cloth as a gift for the altar of the Milan Cathedral which is depicted in his Last Supper. In earlier times, lace makers also created beautiful bodices, dresses and cloaks, (not only in linen but also in silk), in addition to tablecloths, runners, curtains, and bedspreads. The earlier lace was embroidered on heavy homespun linen and cotton originally woven on their antique family looms.

Lefkara lace is a form of cutwork where thin warp thread are counted and carefully cut away with small scissors. Next, the cut area is embroidered with pearl cotton thread to create a tiny opening, which is either left open or filled in with embroidery stitches resembling filigree and lattice work. The satin stitch and buttonhole stitch are used in this tedious 09.2 MAR.APR.MAY / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

new caption

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ARTS & ARCHITECTURE

process. This type of drawn and counted thread embroidery is very time consuming and detailed requiring concentration and excellent embroidery skills. The finished lace must look as good on the back as the front, no sloppy work allowed! The lace is pinned to small pillow to stabilize it and make it easier to work on.

Traditional lefkaritika is done on white, ivory, or khaki Irish linen with a single strand of white, brown, or beige DMC pearl cotton thread. The same geometric motifs have been used for centuries with designs for the embroideries inspired by nature such

ABOVE: In the early 20th century, the lace business was quite profitable and put Lefkara on the map.

LEFT: If the funding of a Lace Institute comes to fruition, it would help in exhibiting, documenting, educating, and continuing the legacy of this traditional handcraft.

as the sun, daisies, and rivers. The patterns all have names like: Leonardo da Vinci, spider web, snowflake, Byzantine, and almond. Usually a zigzag pattern representing a river is embroidered around the inside border of the cloth and then edged with a lace trim for the finishing touch.

At the beginning of the twentieth century salesman headed overseas for months at a time with their suitcases stuffed with lace and not returning until all of their wares were sold. There was a large demand for this luxurious lace through out Europe, England, and Egypt. The lace business was quite profitable making some families wealthy and putting Lefkara on the map. Lefkaritika lace became so famous that a tablecloth was presented to Queen Elizabeth in 1953 in honor of her coronation. Some of the older lace makers still remember working on this historic cloth.

Fast forward, unfortunately this exquisite lace is now endangered of becoming extinct as the younger generation isn’t interested in continuing this traditional handcraft. The pay is low, the hours are long, and the work is tedious; creating an exodus from the rural areas to the higher paying jobs and glamour of the big city. Lefkara’s Mayor Andreas Shoshilos is quite concerned about this and determined to do whatever is necessary to keep the lace heritage alive in his village. Plans are underway to work with the European Union to receive grant money to fund the building of a Lace Institute of international significance. The Institute’s purpose is to exhibit, document, educate, and continue the legacy of this traditional handcraft.

The Cypriots are resourceful and proud people who have historically been able to rebound from adversity and flourish. After the Turk’s brutal invasion in 1974, with a 33% unemployment rate, 40 percent of the population forced to relocate into refugee camps and tent cities, losing their homes, incomes, and businesses, the Cypriot government established the Cyprus Handicraft Centre in Nicosia. The main purpose was to create a cottage industry to assist, re-educate and train women by providing them with the necessary skills enabling them to become economically independent. This program was an enormous success and continues to offer traditional craft workshops including Lefkaritika, weaving, silver smithing, pottery, and wood carving. Visitors are encouraged to tour the center, visit the studios, shop in the gallery, and view the permanent folk costume exhibit.

With his fierce determination we can only hope that Mayor Shoshilos’ vision of a Lace Institute is realized soon enabling a 600-year-old handcraft to survive for future generations and preserve a rich Cypriot textile legacy.

For further information, visit www.pricetower.org or www.visitbartlesville.com.

Michelle Newman is a designer, writer and photographer focusing on art, craft, design, fashion, and cultural destinations. She has written for Better Homes and Gardens, Womans Day, Belle Armoire and Expressions. Based in San Antonio, Texas, she can be reached at michellenewmandesigns@hotmail.com.

09.2 MAR.APR.MAY / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

* CRUISING DISABILITY TRAVEL

The Southern Caribbean HOLLAND AMERICA LINE OFFERS A NICE ACCESSIBLE GETAWAY

By Candy B. Harrington

.

Photography By Charles Pannell

With luxury cruise ships literally flooding the market, cruising has never been more accessible.

And although the itinerary plays an important role in the total accessibility of any cruise, more and more ports of call are now offering accessible shore excursions. Such is the case with Holland America

The good access continues throughout the ship, with barrier-free access to all public areas. As an added feature, the housekeeping staff uses handheld caddies instead of those behemoth wheeled carts; which helps increase the hallway accessibility for wheelchair-users.

A PRIVATE PARADISE

The accessible floating bridge leads over to the Punda shopping area, near the dock in Curaçao.

Line’s (HAL) nicely accessible ms Westerdam, on their seven-day Southern Caribbean itinerary.

The ms Westerdam has 928 staterooms including 28 which are wheelchair-accessible. The accessible staterooms are available in a variety of classes and sizes, many of which have private balconies. Access features include wide doorways, good pathway access and zero-step access to the bathrooms. The accessible bathrooms have a roll-in shower with a fold-down shower bench, a hand-held showerhead, grab bars in the shower and around the toilet and a full five-foot turning radius.

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The ports on the ms Westerdam’s Southern Caribbean itinerary emphasize fun and sun, but all of them have accessible options. At the top of the list is Half Moon Cay, HAL’s private island. Even though Half Moon Cay is a tender port, HAL uses its own accessible tender, which features roll-on access.

Once ashore, there is a paved pathway from the dock to Fort San Salvador, where you’ll find a gift shop, a straw market, a bar, the first-aid station, an ice cream stand, and an information booth. Beach wheelchairs are available for free loan at the first-aid station on a first-come basis.

If you have a large group, then consider reserving the Private Oasis. This large over-water cabana features a bar, hammocks, deck chairs, private restrooms and even a hot tub. The package includes an open bar, a delicious BBQ lunch, snacks and some very attentive service. The cabana features ramp access, with more than enough room to roll around. It’s very accessible, and just a fun party place.

SHOP TILL YOU DROP Oranjestad, Aruba, is the next port of call; and although accessible transportation is limited in this Caribbean port, the area around the dock is pretty accessible.

Shopping is the big attraction here. There are side-

walks and curb-cuts along most of Lloyd G. Smith Boulevard, the main drag in town. Along this thoroughfare you’ll find a wide variety of shops, restaurants and open-air markets. Although some shops have a step up, most of the newer ones have level access. They are still working on improvements to the sidewalks in this area, however, access is pretty good all the way down to the Renaissance Mall.

Fort Zoutman, which is about a half-mile walk from the pier, may be an option for some folks. For the most part, the uneven pavement and lack of sidewalks can be avoided by crossing the street and taking alternate routes. The fort, which was built in 1796, has one step at the entrance and paved level pathways throughout the courtyard. It’s an interesting diversion, but not a good choice for power wheelchair-users or folks who can’t do at least a few steps.

Wild Things Curaçao, on the other hand, offers a very reliable and accessible tour option for wheelers and slow walkers. Tio Taxi Tours provides island tours in their lift-equipped Bluebird Bus. The bus normally holds 30 people, but capacity varies depending on the number of wheelchair-users aboard.

Try to book a tour that includes a stop at the Ostrich and Game Farm, if possible. Tours of the complex are conducted in an accessible safari vehicle with roll-on access. It’s great fun and the tour guides are very entertaining.

The Curaçao Sea Aquarium is also worth a visit, as it features ramped access to most exhibits, and its a good place to get acquainted with the local marine life. And if you want to get up-close-and-personal with the creatures of the deep, then sign up for the Animal Encounters program.

After a short introductory briefing by a Handicapped Scuba Association-certified instructor, you’ll

interact with stingrays, nurse sharks and turtles in an ocean tidal pool. Although some conditions preclude participation in this program, the staff is very accommodating, and many wheelchair-users and slow walkers have enjoyed this unique experience.

If you’d prefer to stick around the dock, then you’re in luck too. There is excellent pathway access to the welcome center and a paved level pathway to a small shopping complex and an open-air market. A pontoon bridge leads over to Willemstad’s popular Punda shopping area. A free water taxi operates when the pontoon bridge is out; however there is a three-inch step at the entrance. Best bet is to browse through the colorful open-air market and use the pontoon bridge when it floats back into place.

Whatever your choice, there are lots of accessible options in Curaçao, Aruba and Half Moon Cay. And thanks to HAL, the ms Westerdam provides a nicely accessible way to get there.

ABOVE, LEFT: Tio Taxi Tours uses lift-equipped transportation for tours of Curaçao. lodging option.

ABOVE, RIGHT: The ms Westerdam features 28 wheelchairaccessible staterooms with adapted bathrooms.

IF YOU GO Holland America Line (800) 547-8493 Access & Compliance Department www.hollandAmerica.com Tio Taxi Tours +599 9 560 5491 • www.tiotaxi.com Ostrich and Game Farm +599 9 747 27 77 • www.ostrichfarm.net Curacao Sea Aquarium +599 9 461 6666 www.curacao-sea-aquarium.com Candy Harrington is the editor of Emerging Horizons and the author of Barrier Free Travel: A Nuts and Bolts Guide For Wheelers and Slow Walkers. She blogs regularly about accessible travel issues at www.BarrierFreeTravels.com.

09.2 MAR.APR.MAY / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

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FAMILY TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT

Members “Must Have”

TRAVEL ITEMS

FIND OUT WHAT’S IN THESE JOURNALISTS’ BAG OF TRICKS

By Arline Zatz

My tape recorder suddenly stopped in the middle of an important interview. I hadn’t packed spare batteries, so by the time I got back to my office, I had forgotten a few important facts. As a result, I learned a lesson—for not only had I relied on the tape recorder, but hadn’t brought a pad or pen!

This incident inspired me to create a list of essential items to take on any trip – just in case.

Several NATJA members have their own list of “must have” items along when traveling, including the hand wipes that Linda Kavanagh carries with her on trips, and the Benadryl that Diane Tritt Eaton packs. Long-time travel journalist Maxine Sommers includes medication to treat headaches or indigestion due to consuming bad food. She also takes Band-Aids, antibiotic ointment, battery charges to keep her camera and cell phone working, extra pens, a notebook, important phone numbers, a small flashlight with fresh batteries, tiny scissors, and at least $100 tucked away on her person.

Instead of checking his luggage, Howard Hian uses an Eagle Creek roll-on, and notes that he“never fails to take a Platinum noise canceling headset; iPod shuffle, cell phone and quick-dry clothes.

Food and travel writer Charyn Pfeuffer depends on her Solio solar charger.

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“It charges my Blackberry, digital camera and laptop, plus it eliminates the need for batteries, having to pack a lot of adaptors, power cords/chargers and voltage converters.” In addition, Pfeuffer uses a small padlock.

“To lock my suitcase when leaving luggage with concierge services, especially when traveling abroad.

A backpack is used to stow important items while exploring nearby cities for one to two nights.” Krazy Glue is another item she finds useful “because I can fix almost anything with this product—close a wound, fix broken eyeglasses, a broken heel or nail.

It’s like having a Girl Scout in a tube! My Kindle is another ‘must have’ so I don’t have to schlep hard copies of books and magazines. Newspaper and magazine subscriptions are delivered/downloaded to the Kindle and I’ll usually download a few books as well before a big trip. The Kindle is compact, lightweight and convenient, and I won’t leave home without 10 tabs of Cipro; 10 tabs of Ambian; a reusable water bottle; ear plugs; Blackberry World Edition; personal photos; Gin Gins ginger candy for nausea; a photocopy of my passport and major credit card.”

PHOTOS: ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

When Jim Bruner travels, he uses a money belt.

Placed inside is a copy of the first page of his passport, birth certificate and credit card, along with an 800 number to call should the card is misplaced; a list of any prescriptions; name, address and phone number and emergency contact; copy of a checking account check; savings account number and bank information. His carry-on contains any prescription meds; change of underwear; toiletry items; clean shirt; snacks and gum; reading material; tickets or confirmations for travel and accommodations; extra batteries and disks (or film) for the camera, and when traveling to Europe, a small amount of local currency as well as travelers’ checks.

Neala Schwartzberg can’t do without her Swany Walkin’ Bag. “I love it because it’s only eight pounds, and all four wheels roll and swivel,” while Bonnie Neely relies on a Sleep Sound machine when away because, she feels, “You never know what noise you might have to endure in or outside a hotel. The battery-operated Magellan brand allows me to place family photos on its built-in photo screen, and because this gadget folds flat, it is travel safe against crushing.”

Sheree Bykofsky takes her iPhone, charger, medicine, toothbrush, sunglasses, scissors, tweezers, hairbrush, business cards and an umbrella, and to save time, keeps extras of these items packed in her luggage. Editor and publisher William Tomicki brings a photo of his family with him because, he feels, “It is a constant reminder of their love and support.

Since they aren’t always with me on the road, it makes being apart difficult, but to be able to see their smiling faces and connect with them even if only through a photo, enhances any trip.”

“A bathing suit takes up very little space in a suitcase,” notes editor/writer Heidi Ellison, “and you never know when you might get the chance to relax in a pool, hot tub or sauna which is a great way to relieve travel stress,” while journalism Professor Emeritus R. Thomas Berner, in addition to the usual clothing and toilet items, carries two cameras, extra digital cards, batteries, battery chargers, cell phone and charger, laptop with external hard drive, pens, paper, adapters for foreign travel, business cards and a Sony reader.”

Gary Lee Kraut keeps pen and paper on hand. Even though member Jennifer Miner considers herself a light packer, she says that there is one relatively new gadget she cannot leave behind or she’d feel at a loss.

“That’s my teeny little, incredibly portable digital video camera—the Flip Mino HD. It holds up to an hour of video, and instantly uploads onto a laptop or computer via the built-in USB. It plugs in to recharge the same way, and the procedure is unbelievably fast. Once the video is uploaded, a busy travel writer can start the next day with those 60 minutes back.

Stills are easily taken off the Flip to be made into digital photos.

Aaron Tuell, director of public relations for the Outer Banks Visitors Bureau, brings his Sudoku book when flying and likes to have fingernail clippers on hand. Like other NATJA members, Dr. Elinor Garely remembers to take her passport, credit cards and sunglasses, while adding Pepto, Duct tape, two pairs of reading glasses, an extra watch and a magnifying mirror. Andrea Granahan travels with clothing “that take up very little space, such as a rayon sarong that serves as a beach towel, a sheet, a shawl, a skirt, and a bathing suit cover-up also used as a dress.”

And, if a hotel desk clerk has ever forgotten to wake you at the requested time—as has happened to me—I never fail to travel with a small battery-operated alarm clock. It’s insurance that I’ll never be late for an appointment!

Arline Zatz is the award-winning author of Best Hikes With Children in New Jersey (The Mountaineers); 30 Bicycle Tours in New Jersey (Backcountry); Horsing Around in New Jersey (Rutgers University Press), among others. Her features and photographs appear nationally in newspapers and magazines.

09.2 MAR.APR.MAY / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

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LIBRARY Baseball Bits The Best Stories, Facts, and Trivia from the Dugout to the Outfield

Wai-nani, High Chiefess of Hawaii: Her Epic Journey

Paris Revisited: The Guide for the Return Traveler

Dan Schlossberg

Linda Ballou

Gary Lee Kraut

Facts, stories, and anecdotes about legendary players and managers, teams and games to remember, and everything from spring training to winter dealing.

Casual fans and hardcore baseball buffs will enjoy.

Price: $14.95 Available at: www.baseballbits.com

Through the eyes of high chiefess, Wai-nani, experience the Hawaiian society as it existed when Captain Cook arrived at Kealakekua Bay in 1779.

Price: $17.95 Available at: www.lindaballouauthor.com

A true insider's guide intended for those who enjoy fine informative travel writing, whether returning to Paris, looking to get it right the first time, or savoring Francophile fantasies from home.

Price: $18.95 Available at: www.amazon.com

Horsing Around in New Jersey: The Horse Lover's Guide to Everything Equine

30 Bicycle Tours in New Jersey

New Jersey's Great Gardens

Arline Zatz

Arline Zatz

Discover the heart of the Garden State—its farmlands, beaches, pine barrens, lakes, and canals—by bicycle! Tours contain directions, detailed maps, and informative descriptions of the natural, cultural and historic features encountered along the way.

Price: $16.95 Available at: www.funtravels.com

Explore the gardens of the Garden State.

The 125 gardens include rose, colonial, herb, Shakespeare, demonstration, education, bird, butterfly, and wildflower gardens, plus one-of-a-kind gardens in unexpected places.

Price: $19.95 Available at: www.funtravels.com

Arline Zatz The first guidebook to everything equine in the Garden State, this book is for horse lovers— from the novice who yearns to go horseback riding but doesn't know how or where to begin, to the experienced equestrian seeking new trails, campsites, and challenges.

Price: $19.95 Available at: www.funtravels.com

Promote Your Book in the TravelWorld International Library!

Now NATJA members can promote their books in the TWI Library. Let fellow members and readers worldwide know what you’ve published.

To request rates, place your order or gather more information, contact: librarian@natja.org

TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE / 09.2 MAR.APR.MAY