Vicarious | Winter 2022 Issue

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DISCOVERED Goodwood Revival

POWER BROKERS Paul Oz: Mastering The Art Of F1

94 DISCOVERED Gobsmacked In The Gaspésie

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Discover more at your Ducati dealer and on ducati.com

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EDITOR IN CHIEF “I am an artist. The track is my canvas and my car is my brush.”

– Graham Hill

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f this year’s F1 race at Circuit of the Americas in Austin, Texas proved anything, it highlighted with grandstanding splendour the days of openwheeled racing at the highest level is now thoroughly entrenched in the hearts of America’s racing enthusiasts.

very long time. I fully admit that in my opinion, the greatest F1 driver of all-time is still Ayrton Senna and his legend would have continued to grow but for that fateful day in 1994.

Of course, it goes without saying that great drivers such as Juan Manuel Fangio, Alain Prost, Michael It has long been the goal of F1 to break into the Schumacher and today’s greatest driver and arguconsciousness of race-lovers stateside, but their ably the best ever Lewis Hamilton, are champipassion for the sport of automobile racing has ons worth celebrating. It’s what makes the sport forever been rooted in NASCAR and to a lesser so compelling, to have a nearly continuous track degree IndyCar and other forms of GT car, truck record of successful F1 stars over the course of series and dirt track racing. If long-running shows many decades and now carry on that tradition with like The Bachelor and Survivor have taught us next-gen talents including Max Verstappen, Lando anything, it should have been obvious that the Norris and George Russell to name a few. best way to America’s heart would be to develop a TV series that takes viewers behind-the-scenes to In our Power Brokers feature this issue, we highuncover the deep and sometimes dark underbelly light British artist Paul Oz. His exceptional work in of the global giant that is F1? Netflix did just that oil paint and bronze is celebrated around the globe.

One of his main passions is F1 and he has worked and the rest is history. closely with the sport to bring to life the greats of From the outside looking in, F1 stars have always yesterday and today. Paul’s work has been featured appeared aloof, tuned into their own personal at F1 tracks around the world and two of his worlds and like politicians, connecting to the rest bronze sculptures are on permanent display at the of us only when it is convenient or self-serving. McLaren Technology Centre in Woking, England.

Some of that may be true, but what the series We hope you enjoy his interview with us. showcases is the drivers and team principles are real people, dealing with real issues and real life- At the heart of our magazine is our love of speed changing situations in real-time. In other words, and travelling the globe. F1 embodies both and it is it’s pretty real. Edited certainly, but real enough one of many sources of inspiration for the stories that it has made its mark on American culture and we deliver in every issue. I would like to take this opportunity to thank you personally for supportthat was exactly the point. ing VICARIOUS as we continue this great advenAs for me, my personal passion for F1 doesn’t ture and wish you and yours a very happy holiday need any encouragement. I have been a fan for a season!

JEFF VOTH Editor In Chief | VICARIOUS jvoth@vicariousmag.com

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EDITOR AT LARGE “Work is doing it. Discipline is doing it every day.

Diligence is doing it well every day.”

– Dave Ramsay What is it that makes something iconic?

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s it because of the boundaries the thing breaks?

Is it an honour bestowed because of endurance, permanence? Is it a combination of those two or something else entirely?

I ask because it seems that everything I’ve hopped into, onto, worn or watched as of late has been referred to as “iconic”.

The Jeep Grand Wagoneer is an icon reborn. So is the new Bronco. Every iteration of 911 enjoys this status as does the Mini Cooper (regardless of increases in size or numbers of doors). The latest Ducati Monster and Harley-Davidson Sportster S -- motorcycles that bear little to no resemblance to their predecessors -- are both icons too, only this time they’re icons reinvented.

overnight. It can take decades for a brand like Porsche to convince people that the simple fact that you’re behind the wheel of a 911 should instil as much confidence entering a corner at speed as the engineering involved to overcome how the laws of physics react to a rear-engine layout.

Now, everyone absolutely expects the latest 911 to out-perform because of the badge it wears and what that implies, not because we took the time to understand all of the science at work to defy physics.

Of course, that’s where we come in. It’s our collective job at VICARIOUS to take the time. To decipher and explain the underlying elements that aim to keep each thing amongst the icons. To vet claims, test boundaries and give every little thing a try to see if it meets, surpasses or falls short of iconic expectations. It’s a tough job, but a look at Similarly, the Omega Seamaster I review in this our ever-expanding masthead assures we’re well issue, is born of iconic stock. A watch built on a equipped. reputation of reliability in some of the most unbelievable conditions. Although this version of the Provided we don’t lose sight of this, we keep our watch made famous by Bond is quite a bit differ- noses to the proverbial grindstone, the hope is ent from anything 007 would typically wear -- it’s that our diligence will bolster credibility with you, a little dark, even for Craig’s moody portrayals. And our readers, so that the sight of the VICARIOUS Bond too is truly an icon for the ages, as even in banner at your newsstand will trigger the same levels of trust that the Black Horse of Stuttgart death he lives on. does -- an icon in print media that breaks down the Brands work tirelessly to achieve iconicity. icons it covers. We know this will take time, but Advertising and public relations foster a connec- as we look to start a new year of delving into the tion and develop recognition. Constant and worlds of Auto, Moto and Travel, I figured it would consistent exposure generates trust and creates be good to re-state and share our goals. Enjoy the aspirations amongst buyers. But it doesn’t happen issue.

MATTHEW NEUNDORF Editor At Large | VICARIOUS

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CONTENTS EDITOR IN CHIEF

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EDITOR AT LARGE

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CONTRIBUTORS

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Discovered

GOODWOOD REVIVAL

16

Featured Hotels

ROADSIDE CHIC

24

RITZ RECIPES

28

CORKSCREW

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Featured Road

THE GREAT OCEAN ROAD

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Featured Car

2021 BMW M5 COMPETITION

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Power Brokers

PAUL OZ: MASTERING THE ART OF F1

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Discovered

POWER VACATION ON LES ÎLES-DE-LA-MADELEINE

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Special Feature

FOR THE LOVE OF CONVERTIBLES

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Featured Motorcycle

2022 INDIAN FTR R CARBON

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OUR TEAM EDITOR IN CHIEF

EV Avenue

THE HILLS ARE ALIVE!

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Jeff Voth jvoth@vicariousmag.com

EDITOR AT LARGE Matthew Neundorf mneundorf@vicariousmag.com

Discovered

VINCENZA KART INDOOR

78 WEST COAST EDITOR Dan Heyman dheyman@vicariousmag.com

Featured Region

WHISTLER, BRITISH COLUMBIA

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EV EDITOR AT LARGE Steven Bochenek sbochenek@vicariousmag.com

Featured SUV

2021 MERCEDES-AMG G 63

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CONTRIBUTORS Ant Anstead Benjamin Yong Evan Williams

Discovered

GOBSMACKED IN THE GASPÉSIE

James Kerr

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Julie Tremaine Kelly Taylor Kyra Sacdalan Lisa Calvi

First Drive

GEORGIA ON MY MIND

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Pablo Kovaks

DESIGN & LAYOUT Jennifer Elia Time Zone

OMEGA SEAMASTER 300 BLACK BLACK

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Gear Up!

THE HOLIDAY GIFT LIST

EXIT LANE

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DIRECTOR OF NEWSSTAND Craig Sweetman

ADVERTISING SALES DIRECTOR Grant Wells gwells@vicariousmag.com

PUBLISHER TRQ MEDIA INC. 16 Heritage Court St. Catharines, ON Canada L2S 3H9

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CONTRIBUTORS ANT ANSTEAD Ant Anstead is best known for hosting car-centric TV shows.

His versatility and natural on-camera presence has allowed him to host car, travel, engineering, homes and art TV shows, and to date he has hosted 16 different TV shows and is currently working on five more.

For many years, Anstead built bespoke cars and one-off pieces of art for elite clients and collectors all over the world. As his reputation grew, he attracted the attention of various television networks. The British native co-hosted For the Love of Cars in 2013 and moved to the United States in 2017 to host Wheeler Dealers, the number one most distributed show on The Discovery Channel. He recently announced five new television shows in the works for 2021, including two collaborations with HGTV’s “Property Brothers” Drew and Jonathon Scott.

KYRA SACDALAN Kyra is an editor & journalist by day, and a PR & marketing wiz by night - with a passion for people, places and things. Someone coined the term ‘cultural Bloodhound,’ which is a title she wears with pride.

From discovering haikyos in Japan on a dual sport to exploring the booming culinary scene of Baja; or racing go-karts in Verona to doing donuts at an Ikea in Russia with a professional drifter or documenting the Dakar Rally; the list goes on and with every new experience and interesting idea, she’s ready to say yes.

EVAN WILLIAMS A life-long Maritimer, Evan has been searching for cool cars longer than anyone can remember. Look for him exploring the back roads of Atlantic Canada looking for new places to explore, new places for photos, and new places to eat.

After years of testing high-pressure parts to failure in a lab, Evan now tests cars, trucks, and SUVs, and is happy that there are no explosions anymore. Well, almost no explosions, don’t get him started on bad infotainment systems.

LISA CALVI Lisa became fascinated with vehicles during her formative years in Europe. Returning to North America, the fascination continued. She has combined her passion for writing, travel and cars with assignments from various magazine and newspaper outlets over the past 16 years, including Carguide Magazine, Saltwire Network and PostMedia.

Lisa runs an event management company, Odyssey International Limited, with her husband, which takes her on motoring adventures around the world and provides fodder for her stories.

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DISCOVERED

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GOODWOOD REVIVAL Horsepower In The English Countryside

Story and Photography

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Julie Tremaine 17

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adies and Gentlemen, Start Your (Vintage) lost control. It spun, skidded, and crashed into the Engines: The Goodwood Revival, a one-of-a- wall. Then took a beat, punched the throttle, and kind English racing event, is the closest you can got back in the race. come to time travel.

The Goodwood Revival describes itself as “a three There I was, standing by the edge of the race track day September festival celebrating the halcyon in what I can only describe as a proper frock, a glass of champagne in one hand and the other clamped days of motor racing with the accompanying glamover my mouth in utter shock. It had been raining our of 1940s, ‘50s and ‘60s.” It doesn’t even come all morning. The classic grand tourer sports car that close to describing the grandeur of the event, or had just peeled around the bend on the wet track everything it encompasses.

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Picture the scene for yourself. Imagine driving (on the left side of the road) through the narrow, cottage-lined streets of Chichester, a tiny village in the English countryside, only to arrive at the grounds of a 17th century mansion that’s home to the Duke of Richmond and one of England’s finest art collections. As you pass through the estate’s rolling hills, you start to see more and more vintage cars, in perfect states of preservation as though they were purchased new off the lot just days ago.

Inside them: men and women in perfectly pressed suits and dresses, hats to match, the men with shined shoes and “braces” (the English term for suspenders) and the women wearing white gloves and silk stockings with seams up the back.

mechanics’ coveralls to vintage fur stoles. Once you’re styled, you can sit for a portrait to capture the moment. If you’re anything like me, you will feel more civilized in that moment than you have in your entire life.

I had gotten to Goodwood by way of London, where I had landed at the invitation of Jaguar to drive two of their new models, the F-PACE SVR, a superpowered SUV that’s received a luxury makeover for 2022, and the redesigned XF, a mid-size sedan that totally changed my expectations of what that kind of car could be. I spent a day zipping the V8, 550 horsepower F-PACE through the country roads of the Cotswolds, thatched roof cottages in the rearview as I wound my way to Stratford-upon-Avon, Once you’re inside the gates of the Goodwood the intuitive navigation system learning my driving Motor Circuit, there are people everywhere... style as the miles ticked away. Of the thoughtful 150,000 of them, to be exact, almost every person details in the new model, the nav’s ability to learn in vintage-inspired clothing from the 1940s-1960s. frequent routes and keep quiet on roads it knows And the ones who aren’t fully prepared? Well, you drive every day is a truly inspired touch. they can get some help on the grounds. There are pop-up salons doing old fashioned “victory roll” But the next day, when I got behind the wheel of hairstyles, and boutiques selling everything from the new XF sedan, it was a whole new experience.

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Full disclosure: I tried to buy a Jaguar last year, squinting as hard as I could to stretch my budget, and I couldn’t make it work. The smallest model, the XE sedan, was too small: my head practically hit the roof and the blind spots, for me, seemed as big as the windows did. Even if I could have afforded what I would have added to the base MSRP of the mid-size XF, which I definitely could not, it felt kind of blah.

For its 2022 model year, Jaguar read my mind. The company dropped the XE from the line and redesigned the XF with a base MSRP of $61,800 CDN. But even with the significant drop in price, Jaguar added a huge amount of upgrades to this mid-cycle refresh. I got behind the wheel, punched the throttle as soon as I hit the road, and left Shakespeare in my dust.

and mid-size line, the XF feels sporty and fast, from the racecar-inspired steering wheel to the 2.0-litre four-cylinder engine. The interior has been upgraded with leather touches throughout and has an infotainment screen larger than an iPad’s which Jaguar says is 15 times faster and more responsive than the previous version. I drove fast that day. Really fast. But that didn’t seem to be a problem — the Brits seem to let loose on those winding country roads, too.

I have to be honest: when we ended the drive in Hampshire, I didn’t want to give the car back.

But a brand new car I could see myself racing up California’s Pacific Coast Highway in wasn’t going to cut it for the Goodwood Revival.

At Goodwood, the only breaks in the seas of vintage-clad people were for the cars, and they The car, to put it mildly, was everything I wanted were spectacular. British military vehicles from last year and couldn’t have. Straddling the entry- World War II filled with people dressed as soldiers.

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Couples dressed to the nines, tops down on their MGBs and Austin Healeys as soon as the weather broke just enough to take the chance. What was so beautiful about the scene, more than just the cars and the aesthetics of the event, was the sense of nostalgia and remembrance. So many of the cars had belonged to long-gone family members, and the people who inherited them lovingly maintained them the way their parents or grandparents had.

Some even had photos of their loved ones inside, or still had old cigarettes in ashtrays that had been there for 50 or more years.

Cars I never thought I’d see in my life, let alone get close enough to touch and talk about and appreciate on such an intimate level.

After I left the Revival, I had one more surprise waiting for me — a drive in a 1973 Jaguar E-Type.

My excitement was uncontainable. Maybe it was because it’s the 60th anniversary of the iconic car (which Jaguar celebrated with a 60th anniversary model earlier this year) or maybe it was because I had been looking at gorgeous cars all day, watching other people get to drive them and ride in them. This time, I was the one who got to sit in the Some of the most spectacular cars I saw were passenger seat, on a golden autumn afternoon in in the race paddock, waiting for their turn on the the English countryside. I gathered up my skirts, track. A gleaming, cherry red 1953 Ferrari 250MM. put one hand on my hat, and buckled up for the A 1935 Maserati 6CM, silver and sleek like a bullet. ride of my life.

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FEATURED HOTELS

ROADSIDE CHIC Story

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Jeff Voth

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oadside Chic is all about finding those hidden gems, the places that provide a perfect balance of comfort, luxury, exceptional service and the opportunity to do as much or as little as you want. Here are four exclusive getaway destinations that we believe offer not only a welcome end to your journey, but an equally inspiring route to get there.

THE SUTTON PLACE HOTEL REVELSTOKE The drive in from Kelowna, British Columbia on the 97A and eventually connecting with the famous Trans-Canada Highway offers a snapshot of west coast Canadian living. Small to mediumsized towns reside at the base of glorious pine and aspen-covered mountains stretching upward with ever-increasing majesty to the heavens as you wind your way towards Revelstoke.

appliances, a feature gas fireplace in the living area and one or two separate guest bedrooms for those requiring larger accommodations. The look and feel is cozy Canadiana at its best.

A large, heated pool with glorious mountain views, as well as several hot tubs throughout the resort, are available year-round. Dining takes place in three unique settings. Rockford Bar & Grill is the perfect place to drop your gear and revel in an elevated culinary experience after a long day on the Tucked at the base of the main resort ski lift, The slopes. On-the-go food is served at La Baguette in two locations: one at the resort, the second at the Sutton Place Hotel Revelstoke offers basic studio top of the gondola. Or you can sip and chat while rooms highlighting king-size beds with pullout enjoying the multi-award-winning local craft beer queen-sized beds for added guests, a refrigerator, scene at the Mackenzie Common Tavern. soaker tub and large windows with balcony views of the mountain. Larger suites further compli2950 Camozzi Rd, Revelstoke, BC, Canada ment your stay with full-size kitchens and top-end www.suttonplace.com/revelstoke 24

MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MUNICH The renowned Mandarin-Oriental, Munich is conveniently located in the “Old Town” district. A perennial favourite of celebrities and dignitaries, it first opened in 1880 as the Johann Kilian Stützel’s Ballhaus. Five-star rooms and suites define the interior space of the hotel, while a massive grand staircase graces the main lobby.

The famous Hofbräuhaus and Glockenspiel at Marienplatz are mere steps away. Those seeking a luxurious dinner need look no further than the hotel’s very own Matsuhisa Munich. Casual fair is served year-round at The Lounge or guests can choose from an Asian-inspired Mediterraneanstyle menu during the summer months at Mahjong Roof Garden on the newly design terrace. Munich Wide hallways lead to rooms featuring over-stuffed is magical any time of year and the Mandarin king-size beds, marble and wood bathrooms with Oriental, Munich is in the heart of it all. soaker tubs and the latest tech. Grand views of Munich’s majestic spires are visible through large Neuturmstrasse 1, 80331 Munich, Germany windows overlooking the city. Museums, the Opera www.mandarinoriental.com/munich/altstadt/ house and the finest shops in town are all within easy walking distance of the hotel. luxury-hotel

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HOTEL SAVOY FLORENCE A Rocco Forte Hotel, the sophisticated Hotel Savoy Florence is perfectly placed in the middle of the old city with easy access to all tourist sites. Exit the front doors and a quick stroll to the right will take you to the Duomo and galleria, or left to the main square, shopping and a short 15-minute walk to the famous Ponte Vecchio Bridge. Streets are narrow in spots, even for Italy, and driving here requires a great deal of concentration and patience, but the effort is well worth it.

Sophisticated and comfy rooms of varying sizes grace the interior of the hotel. All rooms feature king-sized beds, a marble bathroom and separate walk-in shower. Large windows look out towards 26

the Piazza della Repubblica. Who needs climate control when the view through an open window is so magnificent?

A truly authentic dining experience awaits at Irene restaurant. Breakfast is served buffet style or a la carte, but the real magic happens at night while dining streetside in glorious Florence. After dinner, be sure to take the short walk across the bridge to La Carraia for some of the best gelato in Italy. It’s open until midnight and the view of the Arno River at night is breathtaking.

Piazza della Repubblica 7, Florence, Italy 50123 www.roccofortehotels.com/hotels-and-resorts/ hotel-savoy

CARLTON HOTEL ST. MORITZ The Carlton Hotel is a beacon of comfort in this one-of-a-kind resort destination. All rooms are south-facing suites that overlook the lake and Alps adjacent to St. Moritz. Interior designer Carlo Rampazzi was given a blank canvas on which to re-create a hotel complimentary to its illustrious heritage, but equally in tune with today’s savvy traveller.

His design theme showcases unique décor in every room, even going so far as to implement different colour schemes and art work throughout each hallway. The 1,200 sq. metres, 3-storey Carlton Spa

offers a full menu of services in a lavish setting filled with views of snowtop covered mountains.

Two pools, one indoor and one heated outdoor, adjoin to form a cocoon of relaxation. Dining takes place at Da Vittorio – St. Moritz and Restaurant Romanoff, while the Carlton Bar & Bel Etage is a globally-renowned bar in which to warm up and reflect on the day’s activities while sipping a specialty cocktail in front of a crackling fire.

Via Johannes Badrutt 11, CH-7500 St. Moritz, Switzerland www.carlton-stmoritz.ch/en

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RITZ RECIPES VICARIOUS has partnered with The Ritz-Carlton, Toronto to bring you some of their favourite recipes with each issue. Try these for yourself and enjoy the pleasure of fine dining in the cozy confines of your own home or home on the road.

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POCH Bar & Kitchen Terrace redefines pub culture and pays homage to traditional British Gastrobars. Tucked away on the lobby level of the luxurious Ritz-Carlton, the restaurant gives a nod to iconic food and beverage trends of the past, reimagined with a new perspective on modern dining.

Designed by DesignAgency’s Allen Chan, EPOCH provides a contemporary and welcoming atmosphere. Guests are greeted with a relaxed chic dining room, the ideal place to unwind and socialize among a thoughtfully curated gallery of works

by Canadian artists Caitlin Cronenberg and Heidi Conrod. The centerpiece of the restaurant is a stunning wraparound bar fitted with pale stone countertops. The Green Room, adorned with a fireplace and pool table, is a cozy space, perfect for intimate events, and a tribute to the entertainment industry and Hollywood North. The terrace, created to be an extension of Simcoe Park, features a canopied bar, perfectly framing Anish Kapoor’s ‘Mountain Sculpture’ in the park and offers stunning views of the CN Tower, and also has an open-air kitchen with stone fire oven and sleek fire pits.

General Manager Guillaume Benezech says, ‘We wanted to provide a place that evokes your own story, where you can enjoy a personalized experience and create memories with your friends, family and colleagues.’

EARTH-TO-TABLE FARE Helming the kitchen at EPOCH Bar & Kitchen Terrace is Chef Jeff Crump, a Canadian slow-food pioneer and founder of Earth to Table Organic Farm and Earth to Table Bread Bar. Crump has authored two cookbooks based on the ‘eat local’ concept.

The EPOCH Bar & Kitchen Terrace menu is a culinary homage to our Chef’s earth-to-table philosophy, and his roots in the UK Gastrobar scene at The Fat Duck and the Hind’s Head. Thoughtfullysourced ingredients and an emphasis on seasonality is of paramount importance to his menu concepts. Chef Crump’s cuisine can be described as approachable and seasonally inspired.

A SIP THROUGH THE AGES EPOCH’s cocktails, designed by mixologist Jason Griffin, use creative mixology techniques to transport patrons through the eras. The beverage menu is divided into three chapters, each indicative of a moment in time: Retrospective (retro classics reimagined for today’s sophisticated palate), Contemporary (focusing on the current trends of eco-sustainability and health consciousness) and Prospective (forward-looking cocktails using modern techniques). The cocktail menu will spark nostalgia and intrigue the senses like the Mermaid Lagoon (a updated Blue Lagoon), Moment of Zen (an alcohol-free cocktail) and Business as Usual (a modern take on the Bloody Mary).

Along with its regularly scheduled service, EPOCH offers an express lunch option for people on the go and live jazz music every Friday evening.

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HOSTING FOR THE HOLIDAYS? Why not impress your guests with a beautiful seafood tower? This classic raw bar presentation can be sized for gatherings both large and small, and is easy to do in your own home with just a few tips.

PLAN THE TOWER For the most restaurant-worthy presentation, you can purchase a tiered metal tower to hold your ice and shellfish. However, any tiered dessert or appetizer stand can also fit most shellfish for your raw bar assortment, as long as each tier has raised rims to keep the ice in place.

You can also make your own seafood tower with bowls. For the base of the tower, use a large, shallow bowl such as a pasta serving dish. Place a bar towel in the bottom of the bowl. This will help soak up the water as the ice melts. Nest a smaller, shallow bowl or cake stand (with rimmed edge) in the centre and fill that with ice to make a second tier.

traditional choice for a raw bar presentation.

They’re small enough to enjoy on their own with a delicate texture and a slightly sweet flavour. If you prefer your clams steamed, by all means, do so!

SHRIMP Look for jumbo shrimp (about 16-20 shrimp per pound) or make it easy on yourself with pre-peeled and cooked shrimp, or try sweet spot prawns from BC. Peel and devein, leaving the tail on for serving.

CRAB Crab legs and claws are always a fantastic choice, You can either nest a very small bowl inside of that whether you’re choosing snow crab or king crab. to hold dishes of condiments like cocktail sauce, Estimate about 1 leg per person. mignonette, and lemon wedges, or present them LOBSTER on a separate serving platter. Don’t forget other Small lobster tails are a manageable size for essential serving utensils like cocktail forks, small seafood towers and can be divided into halves for plates, napkins, and a bowl for shells. easier sharing. Or steam a whole lobster in advance and enjoy both the tail and claw meat as part of PICK YOUR SEAFOOD The perfect seafood tower has a mix of raw and your seafood tower. cooked shellfish to give you a range of delicate, And for a luxurious finishing touch—why not a jar fresh flavours. Try this classic lineup and you won’t of caviar? go wrong.

PUT IT ALL TOGETHER: OYSTERS Steam the shrimp, crab, and lobster, and chill up to Offer a choice of both Atlantic and Pacific oysters— 1 day in advance of serving. at least one variety from each coast.

East: Beau Soleil, Malpeque, Raspberry Point Shuck the clams and oysters just before serving to West: Smokey Bay, Kumamoto, Pearl Bay enjoy them at their peak of freshness.

CLAMS Crushed ice, lemons, cocktail and hot sauce brings Littleneck clams or cherrystone clams are the it all together!

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“Travelling- it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller.”

Ibn Battuta

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LOCATION: UMLING LA PASS, LADAKH REGION, INDIA ALTITUDE: 19,300 FT VEHICLE: LAMBORGHINI URUS 31

CORKSCREW

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o anyone who appreciates the finer points of taking corners at speed on a racetrack, the word ‘Corkscrew’ means only one thing; turns 8 and 8A at WeatherTech Raceway Laguna Seca. It’s iconic. Get it right and you will be smiling for a least the next 1:27.62 seconds as your work your way back for another go around should you happen to be driving a McLaren Senna, the current record holder.

Of course, there is an equally compelling use of the word corkscrew that evokes a sense of surprise and delight as you anticipate the simple joy found in a fine glass of wine or spirits. While it may be a different pleasure than deftly making it through the famous set of turns located just east of Monterey, California, the pleasure is no less intoxicating. In fact, it is certain to last longer than a perfect lap of the racetrack.

Pablo Kovacs takes us inside the world of wine and spirits with insider knowledge only an expert can share.

ABOUT PABLO KOVACS Food and wine have always been a big part of Pablo’s life. His father, Thomas Kovacs was a chef for Starwood Corp. specializing in opening hotels, so Pablo was fortunate enough to grow up and live all over the world and experience many different cultures and cuisines. 25 years of hospitality experience, doing everything from cooking in awardwinning kitchens to running beverage programs for multi-unit restaurant companies, have all had a part in shaping how Pablo treats and cherishes his relationships with his clients. Pablo believes that wine has a unique trait – it brings people together.

Special bottles are rarely enjoyed alone, and ever since wine was first produced it has always been a conduit for conversation, good company, and celebration.

Besides wine Pablo has a deep passion for fine automobiles and the football team of his alma mater, The University of Washington. Having spent some time working with Singer Vehicle Design in Los Angeles has only made it worse and he’s on the hunt for his own ‘barn find’ so he can get to work on his own restoration. Currently Pablo is a Senior Wine Advisor for Harper’s Club and in his spare time he enjoys rounds of golf, local gatherings of Cars & Coffee and spending time with his wife Megan, his two children Skylar and Clayton, and their Border Terrier Scout 32

FOR THE LOVE OF BUBBLES The world of sparkling wines has a vast, expanding array of producers that crisscross the globe from wine region to wine region. It seems that every wine producing region now has a signature sparkling wine that possesses its own unique qualities. From light and fruity Prosecco to wonderfully dry and fragrant Crémant de Lemieux, there are endless options to consider when the occasion calls for bubbles.

Naturally, I have a current favorite that I’d like you to know about.

ULTRAMARINE

VIVA ARGENTINA!

NAPA, CALIFORNIA

LOCATION

Made by supreme bad-ass Michael Cruse, Ultramarine wines are single-vineyard, single varietal sparkling expressions of terroir. The fruit for the 2013 vintage Blanc de Blancs and Blanc de Noirs came from Charles Heintz vineyards in Occidental, CA. Wonderfully dry and fragrant and tremendous with any type of cuisine, especially Thai. The umami of spicy, rich food with the palette cleansing qualities of sparkling wine to me, is a perfect match. Cruse keeps production numbers ridiculously low and has achieved true cult-like status with this label. He produces both a Blanc de Blanc and Blanc de Noirs and like any reputable sparkling producer he allows significant ageing to happen in the winery. He is just now releasing the 2016 vintage. Ultramarine wines are hard to come by, but your best chances are in a restaurant so if you see it, jump on it.

I’ve come to learn that when it comes time to choose the bottle to buy at a restaurant or wine shop, for many wine lovers the decision is based on price, not preference. Enter the wines of Argentina. In terms of ‘Bang for the Buck’ only Spain produces more wines that can compare to the type of quality you can get for a moderate price.

CHEVAL DES ANDES MENDOZA, ARGENTINA

Everyone loves a good collaboration nowadays.

This one began in 1999 when Bordeaux powerhouse Chateau Cheval Blanc and Argentinian icon Terrazas de los Andes agreed to produce Bordeaux style blends with fruit from vines that are 50 – 100 years old. Cheval des Andes was born and now has 50 hectares of vineyards and farmland that produces fruits, vegetables, honey and a variety of proteins as well. The focus is the grapes – Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. This is one of those projects that makes you say, this is the way I would do it. Better yet, you’ll only pay $75-$110 for a bottle. Not cheap, but it really overdelivers for price paid. Order it instead of the Napa Cab or Bordeaux blend, you won’t be disappointed.

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AMARO An Amaro before and after dinner might just save your life…

of handmade ravioli and the most remarkable Bistecca alla Fiorentina (my love for the all mighty Porterhouse began here) we sat with our bellies stuffed and in need of a nap. “A round of Averna If you’re like me, and you enjoy stuffing your gullet please” said our wise friend to the waiter. We all with fine foods, wines and spirits, yet you tend to looked at each other, unable to fit another bite or regret it an hour later, there is hope. sip of anything into our bodies. “You’ll thank me 20 years ago, I was backpacking through Italy later” she said again. with a few cousins. Our family has an unquenchAmaro Nonnio and Averna are both examples of able desire to eat and drink local foods when we are travelling, especially in Italy. We had reached the heavenly spirit called Amaro. Averna is from Siena where we were staying at an old family Sicily and is made using a proprietary blend of friends house just outside of town in a small village herbs and citrus. Amaro Nonnino is grappa-based that was surrounded by vineyards straight out of from the Friuli region of Italy and is a little softer a movie set. One afternoon, our friend who was and less sweet. These are just two examples of American but had been living in Italy for 30 years a plethora of options when it comes to Amaro. asked us to join her for lunch. We were taken to Whether it is the herbal qualities, old folklore or an another small village up on a hillside with an old old family friend giving unsolicited advice, taking a castle and tiny narrow cobblestone streets to a sip of these spirits before and after you’re about tiny restaurant. Not knowing the best meal of our to do some damage at the table is paramount to young lives was about to happen, our friend ordered avoiding heartburn, indigestion or just discomfort all of us a glass of Amaro Nonnino. We had zero after eating heavy or rich foods. I think we can all idea what this sweet smelling, wine-based spirit agree that Italian cuisine and wines are some of was all about so we happily took it down without the most delicious things ever created, so do as really thinking about it. “You’ll thank me later” is the Italians do and enjoy some Amaro before or all our friend told us. Three hours later, after plates after your meal. You’ll be glad you did.

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FEATURED ROAD

THE GREAT OCEAN ROAD IT’S A G’DAY FOR DRIVING

Story 38

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James Kerr

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W

hen you think of Australia, you may think of popular sights like the sails of Sydney Opera house, the majesty of Ayers Rock or even the vastness of the outback but there is another great Australian experience – the Great Ocean Road.

Running from Torquay to Allansford along Australia’s south eastern coast, this 243 kilometre stretch of highway winds through varying terrain from soft, sandy beaches to spectacular cliffs.

Melbourne, the coastal capital city of southeastern Australia, is our starting point to access the Great Ocean Road. With a population of over five million, there is lots to see and do here, but we were after a slower paced scenic experience, so after picking up a car at the airport, we headed for Bellbrae, a small rural town about 100km away.

Bellbrae to Torquay, the official start of the Great Ocean Road is only eight kilometres. Golf courses, sandy beaches and great surfing are a few of the attractions of this popular tourist town. Several of the world’s most famous surf companies make their home in Torquay.

I would recommend taking a side trip east along the coast to Queenscliff. The maritime museum is definitely worth a stop, with displays ranging from local fishermen artifacts to military history. At the ferry terminal, stop for lunch along the harbour and climb the enclosed tower that gives you a bird’s eye view of the harbour, coast and town. Check the schedule for tours at Fort Queenscliff, still an active military base. It dates from 1860 when an open battery was constructed to defend the entrance to Port Phillip. Several historic gun batteries still remain and there are two lighthouses, a white one The first part of the drive was on modern multilane and a black stone one. The black lighthouse is one freeways as you would expect near Melbourne, but of three black lighthouses in the world and ship soon the drive becomes smaller two lane highways navigators would line up the black and white lightwinding through rural countryside. Along the way, houses to show the safe channel into Port Phillips you can see sheep grazing, tree hedgerows thirty bay. feet tall that are manicured to rectangular shapes, and of course, many road signs reminding you to Influenced by the Southern (Antarctic) ocean, “keep Left” , as Australians drive on the “other” temperatures varied along the coast from about side of the road.

100C to above 250C. Most of the time, a light shirt 40

FORT QUEENSCLIFF

and shorts were all that was needed but it can be windy and cool, especially along the tall cliffs. We did experience a day of rain, so keep a light jacket close at hand.

There is a variety of accommodations along the Great Ocean Road. Many of the towns along the road are small but hotels, campgrounds, bed and breakfasts and backpacker hostels are easy to find.

Some of the campgrounds even feature cabins and Yurts for those that don’t have tents or trailers. In most accommodation, you will have a microwave, fridge, kettle, and sometimes a stove/oven, washer, dryer. Hosts provided a small carton of milk on check-in for the coffee. There was cutlery, dishes and sometimes wine glasses. Free wireless connectivity is available almost everywhere in the towns along the route. We were travelling in February, near the end of the Australian summer holidays, but it was easy to find accommodation online or by asking residents at local stops.

Back on the road again, we travel to Anglesea. We stayed at a backpackers hostel and had a private bedroom and bathroom with common kitchen and living room. Our host recommended we dine at the local golf course and the selection was great and cooked perfectly. The dining room glass walls

overlooked the 18th hole, where a large resident group of kangaroo roamed freely as we ate. Seeing a large joey climb into its mother’s pouch with only its tail sticking out and then a couple minutes later seeing its head pop out made life-long memories of this stop.

Rather than eat all meals at restaurants, we often chose to pick up some fruit, oatmeal and yogurt at local stores and have them for breakfast at our accommodation. It makes for a relaxed start to the day. Lunches were often picnics at parks and beaches along the road. Fresh deli sandwiches, cold drinks and snacks could be found in grocery and convenience stores to take with us for the day. Wine is very reasonably priced, with a couple very decent bottles priced at $4 and up in the local liquor shops but beer was expensive, with a regular can often $6 or more. The same goes for drinks in restaurants. Check for “happy hour” times to get the best deals for food and drinks. For suppers, there is a wide variety of restaurants, with no lineups.

Kennet River has only a handful of residents, but it is one of the best places to view Koala in the wild. They are very difficult to see, as they blend in well with the eucalyptus trees, but we found a few

RAZORBACK, PORT CAMPBELL NATIONAL PARK 41

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FORT QUEENSCLIFF

within a couple minutes walk from the highway and they were sleeping on branches only a short distance above our heads. In various places along the highway you will see unusual road and walkway signs, such as watch for penguins, kangaroos, lizards, snakes and anteaters. Don’t fear. We only saw Koala and kangaroo.

Apollo Bay was our next stop. Going slightly inland to Erskine Falls park, you can take a short hike through trees and lush vegetation to see the falls. Near Apollo Bay, the Otway National forest takes the highway away from the coast for a short distance, with side roads that lead you out to Cape Otway Lighthouse. Along the road, the town of Marengo provided the opportunity to walk the rocky shoreline at low tide, fascinated by the abundance of shells and sea creatures.

Highlights of the road include visiting Twelve Apostles Marine National Park and adjacent Port Campbell National Park. This rugged coastline has sheer cliffs hundreds of feet high, with crashing waves battering the coastline. The twelve apostles (actually there are only seven of the original eight remaining) are limestone stacks eroded from the mainland by the powerful ocean. Further along the highway other limestone stacks get names like Razorback, Thunder Cave, London Bridge and the Grotto that aptly describe these formations. The stops are busy but not crowded and it is easy to pull off the highway to park and take a short walk

to view the sights.

Further along the coast, we watched wind surfers with their large kites zooming on top of the ocean waves while others learned to fly their kites along the sandy beach.

Our final stop is Warmambool, a small city of 35,000 just past the termination of the Great Ocean Road. Broad sidewalks and large awnings over the downtown area suggest they like to stay out of the nearly 900mm of annual rainfall, but summertime (January/February) is mostly dry.

Take a walk around the breakwater and view the islands that can be waded to during low tide. Middle Island is a penguin sanctuary and is protected by guard dogs to keep predators away. It is also off limits to visitors but it is only a few hundred metres away so you can view it from the breakwater.

A short distance from Warmambool, the inactive volcano rim of Tower Hill Reserve provides a short hike and a reminder that Australia is close to the Pacific Ocean’s volcanic Ring of Fire. Taking a more direct but secondary highway route back to Melbourne, we see farm and ranch land, more reminiscent of what you might find in Canada.

You can book tours that take you to some parts of the Great Ocean Road but travelling by car at your own leisurely pace is the best way to experience the wonders of the road. It’s a trip long to be remembered.

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FEATURED CAR

ROAD TEST 44

2021 BMW M5 COMPETITION Story Jeff Voth

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Photography Iain Crawford

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ower, and plenty of it, is the calling card of the 2021 BMW M5 Competition. The spec sheet reads like a Yankees line-up card from the 1920s when they referred to Babe and the boys as Murderers’ Row. A 4.4L twin-turbocharged 32-valve V8 engine produces an astounding 617 horsepower at 6,000 rpm and 553 pound-feet of torque at 1,800 rpm.

Matched to an 8-speed automatic transmission with steering-wheel-mounted paddle-shifters, it launches from 0-100km/h in 3.3 seconds and crests 160km/h in approximately 6.7 seconds.

It’s enough to snap your head at launch and rattle your brain a little as your mind tries to catch up with the reality of the speed you are achieving in such a short amount of time. In my experience, only the 2021 Porsche Taycan Turbo S had the same neck-snapping affect as it charged from 0-100km/h in under 3 seconds. Top speed for the M5 Competition is listed at 305km/h.

instantaneous with matching red carbon ceramic brakes slowing this 1,922 kg sedan to a quick and controlled stop.

Combine all this with standard all-wheel drive capability and exceptional power steering connected to a supple and thick leather-wrapped steering wheel, and it is easy to see why the M5, and in particular the Competition model, is so revered.

If the exterior of the M5 Competition is stunning to look at, the interior feels next level featured in black and midrange beige. BMW has always taken the time to focus as much attention on the fine details as it does on the bigger picture.

In our case it highlights an all black dash, center console, upper door trim and seats with lower door seat inserts in beige, plus complimentary beige stitching throughout. It looks fantastic and functions even better with the optional cooling and massaging front seats. They grip in all the right places — this is a sports sedan, after all — but Our Imola Red II tester is equipped with 20” M there is nothing like getting a massage while stuck light alloy double-spoke black wheels with 275/35 in traffic looking for an escape road to explore at ZR20 front and 285/35 ZR20 high perfor- speed. Oh, and did I mention it seats four adults in mance all-season tires. Stopping power is near complete comfort.

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POWER BROKERS

PAUL OZ MASTERING THE ART OF F1

Story Jeff Voth

P

aul Oz is a celebrated British artist who creates iconic portraits and sculptures employing two unique and very different mediums; oil paint and bronze. His work has been commissioned to highlight the sporting world’s greatest names including Muhammed Ali, Ayrton Senna and Bruce McLaren among many, as well as pop icons Bruno Mars, Sir Brad Wiggins and to celebrate the 50th Anniversary of Star Trek.

His passion for F1 runs deep and he has collaborated with the series to feature his work at tracks including Silverstone, Monaco, Mexico City and more. We caught up with Paul to discuss his passion for oil paint and bronze and see where his inspiration for racing art comes from.

V: Growing up, did you always want to be an artist?

I used to draw continuously, even won a prize for a felt tip thing with 3D parrots at age 5, and as a teenager, yes I wanted to go to art college – but simply put I didn’t have the qualifications to do that. I was grade C at GCSE art, I think because I wasn’t structured or methodical, just dived in.

And I was A’s in maths and physics, so the advice was to follow that path and get a ‘proper career’.

Even now with hindsight I don’t disagree with the advice not to pursue my dream to art college – at the time it was the sensible decision to follow the more academic path. And indeed I do believe that it’s everything I learnt in business that has enabled my career to get where it has now, especially in F1. It doesn’t matter how good the art is or isn’t without communication, marketing and business management knowledge to get it out there. I’m quite confident that I wouldn’t be here doing this if I had gone to art college.

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V: Was there a breakout moment where you went from being a lesser-known artist to being recognized globally?

It’s been a steady progression over most of the last decade – but with a couple of steep changes perhaps. The biggest catapult was the Senna bronze when McLaren launched it on social media. I was already working with teams and with F1 directly for many years – but this really did send everything next level – a definite breakout from being known nationally, to globally. I now have more followers in Latin America than the UK. The 1 minute unveiling clip that we filmed on the boulevard in one take

with zero prep, was their highest viewed post in 2019 too – and when they re-posted it last month had another 10 million views! One of those things perhaps where not overthinking it made it more powerful.

V: Do you have a favourite medium to work with?

cars when I was really young – I remember fitting into his Porsche tire and rolling down the hill in the garden! And being taken to Donington, Brands Hatch and Shelsley Walsh are vivid memories. My first memories of F1 though are definitely Senna’s black and gold JPS with bright yellow helmet. I think initially because most cool things on TV in the 80’s were black – like Knight Rider, Airwolf, Street Hawk. Only after his death did I learn about what an incredible human Ayrton was outside of the car, his ethos, kindness and charity work. He’s practically a saint in Brazil. I think we can see much of his character in Bianca and Bruno now, very strong family traits.

To work with – definitely oil paint. It’s so rich, vibrant and can be used almost sculpturally. But as for the end result – I’m really loving creating bronze statues so much. For the creative challenges especially, and the heightened emotions of the end result. I’m fortunate that the most prestigious bronze foundry in the world is just 18 miles V: As an artist, are there particufrom my studio at home, nestled in a valley near lar vehicle brands that you admire Stroud. So I have them for the molten metal work! from an artistic standpoint?

V: You are very passionate about Perhaps predictably for anyone who knows me... the F1 stars of today and yesterLamborghini. Such strong design language carried day and in particular the great through from the Miura and Countach into every Ayrton Senna. Where does this current model is inspirational in itself – the Gandini passion come from? line as they refer to it, through the side profile. I It’s a combination of many things I think. I’ve been was privileged to spend an evening with their a lifelong sportsman being one side of it, so I have head of design Mitja Borkert a few years ago – his a natural affinity with that mindset. It’s a passion energy and passion is infectious! McLaren too, the I shared with my father too so in a way even more direction the designs are moving in now, the rear important now that he’s not around. He had sports of their cars especially are so sculptural.

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V: Is there a valuable life lesson that you have learned as an artist while working with legends from the past and/or the current stars of today?

I’m trying to think past Imola 1994.... and I really can’t. Obviously for tragic reasons... not because I’d have wanted to be there as such, but because it’s the most important race weekend in F1’s history.

The first that springs to mind – and it’s tough – but don’t be a fan! What I’ve found is that everyone in the public eye has two very separate characters – when talking to a friend or associate, or when talking to a fan. Especially now with social media when everyone assumes they know you. And once they see you as a fan – there’s no going back. I’ve made the mistake a few times and seen an instant switch. Because of this I never ask for selfies or signatures, even when working with a team on a project I really try not to ask for anything unless I really have to. Being as professional and low maintenance as possible. Building relationships being infinitely more valuable than a cheap selfie just for socials.

V: You have also worked on many pop culture projects, are there one or two that standout for you?

I do wish I had more time for more pop projects too - F1 has certainly taken over the schedule in recent years. The whole ‘80’s Kid’ project has been so much fun to explore and create, celebrating everything awesome from my childhood. Two gallery shows deep over the last 5 years and so much more potential still! I have so many ideas that I just need to find space to create.

V: Is there a different medium that you would like to explore in the future?

V: If you could transport yourself to a race weekend at any point in Actually not really now! Sculpture has always had F1 history, what era and race would a strong pull for me since studying engineering that be? at university, and creating hyper realistic bronze statues in recent years has already exceeded my dreams there to be honest. And I’m so excited about what is coming up with bronzes – the next decade’s work is kinda already mapped out.

V: In a world obsessed with digital, is there a strong future for the more traditional forms of art such as painting and sculpture and might it even be more important at this time in history?

I have had exactly this thought, that as painting and sculpture become rarer, that it’s even more important to push on with the traditional mediums.

I may employ technological methods – but am still focused on the traditional output. And there’s not much as permanent as bronze! I am wary of digital art, and really not sure about NFT’s. It’s inevitable that I’ll get involved soon, there are too many great ideas and discussions going on – but it must be in the right way for the right reasons. I believe that the NFT bubble will pop, but that there is scope for artwork specifically created to be an NFT, rather than the crazy place we’re at right now of short YouTube clips being valued so highly. But hey – who am I to say what is art and what isn’t!?

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DISCOVERED

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POWER VACATION ON LES ÎLES-DE-LA-MADELEINE ONE-DERFUL DAY ON THE MAGGIES

Story Lisa Calvi

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Photography Lisa Calvi and Garry Sowerby 53

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have an island love hangover. Home after a Lawrence. Despite the untouched beauty, Acadian 60-hour road trip, I find myself daydreaming charm, and being part of Canada, les Îles are relaabout craggy cliffs, seafood crepes, swaying sea tively unknown. grasses and shimmering sunsets.

The people of Quebec, though, are in on the secret.

“I want to go back,” I say to my husband, Garry. “It The 13,000 Madelinots that live full-time on the was so magical, a hidden gem.” islands are joined in the summer by visiting family and tourists, tripling the population.

Magical and hidden perfectly describe the island paradise with which we have been smitten since Hear ye, Canadians! Rather than our first visit a few years ago. fly off to some offshore locale, Les Îles-de-la-Madeleine, Québec (Magdalen Islands) are a cluster of small islands, forming a lovely archipelago in the heart of the Gulf of Saint

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stay closer to home! Sort of.

The islands are a five-hour ferry ride from Souris, Prince Edward Island.

Why not make ‘getting there’ part of the vaca- sunny nooks on deck when the first enchanted tion? One weekend. Two ferry rides. A full day on island of the archipelago, Île d’Entrée, appears on the horizon. It’s still an hour to the dock and the the islands bookended by two evenings. mystical islands tease you, their hook-like form Sounds like a power vacation, requiring two key confusing your sense of direction. ingredients to be successful. One – like-minded road trip buddies. Good friends, Marie-Paule and The beautiful Domaine du Guy LeBlanc from Moncton, were in.

Vieux-Couvent, a lovingly restored former convent and

Two, a vehicle to spread out in, like the 2021 girls’ school, is our home for two Chevrolet Tahoe. With its tall stature, massive nights. Friend and owner, Denis Landry, and his staff are warm windows and panoramic roof, the Tahoe is the and welcoming. quintessential road trip vehicle. Extra luggage? No problem. A cooler? Yes! The kitchen sink? That will The 11 rooms are thoughtful, elegant and refined. fit, too!

The phenomenal art collection, scattered throughOur handsome Chevy Tahoe is powered by a super- out the hotel, always leaves us speechless. And the efficient 3.0-litre turbocharged diesel engine and food… ooh la la! an attitude that says, ‘give me a mission and let’s The hotel’s location in the middle of the archigo’. Business Class. pelago makes it the perfect base from which to The crossing from Souris to Cap-aux-Meules is explore. Head south out of the driveway and you’ll provided by CTMA, a transport company formed drive through the most inhabited of the islands. by the islanders in 1944. Staff is friendly, boarding La Grave, site of the first settlement and fishery, is efficient and fun to watch. with its quaint, shingled shops, was closed for the On board, you can eat and drink, of course. You’ll season. The perfect Madelinot souvenir would want to be outside in one of the many sheltered have to wait until next time.

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The artisanal studio La Fille de la Mer, where Ariane Arsenault creates whimsical soaps with ingredients foraged from the shores of the islands, was also closed. Luckily, her scrumptious soaps are featured in the bathrooms of the Domaine du Vieux-Couvent.

Les Îles-de-la-Madeleine deserve a longer stay, time to beach-comb, explore underwater caves and kite surf. One should also visit the 80-yearold Fumoir d’Antan, where the Arseneau brothers carry on the traditional methods of smoking fish or visit the Fromagerie du Pied-de-Vent to see how cheese is made.

But in this other-worldly place, with hundreds of kilometres of open ocean between you and the rest of the planet, driving to the end of every road and ‘gazing out to sea’ is sometimes the most fulfilling entertainment of all.

Les Îles-de-la-Madeleine sit atop ancient salt domes, covering a land area of 205 square kilometres, less than half the area of the city of Montreal. You can drive from one end of the archipelago to the other in just over an hour.

But what’s your hurry?

The islands boast striking scenery around every corner. Of the 435 kilometres of coastline, 300 are white sand beaches. Vibrant red and gray sandstone cliffs plunge into a cerulean sea and rolling dunes of multi-hued sea grass ripple in the wind.

One minute, you’re driving along a sandbar, the turbulent sea on either side. The next kilometre finds you staring across a lagoon from atop a cliff, other islands stretching out like a fairy tale mirage to the horizon. A few kilometres later, pine forests touch the roadside, reminding you you’re still in Canada.

An early morning photo session rewarded us with a sunrise that took our breath away. Three different rainstorms scudded over us in the afternoon as we headed north, whipping the moody sea into a frenzy. Then, an ethereal rainbow appeared and finally, sun.

Yes, we had only one day on the archipelago. But what a day!

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As Marie-Paule exclaimed, “We saw so many things. Even if we didn’t get to stay long, at least we got to go!” After all, a small taste of the islands is better than none.

We swung from swings with a view like no other at Auberge La Salicorne, drew a massive heart in the sand on the Pointe-auxLoups beach and played in the ever-present wind.

When a seal popped its glistening head out of the waves, we all squealed with delight. It disappeared for a moment, then 15 shiny heads appeared! The boisterous crew seemed as excited as we were.

The go-anywhere Chevy Tahoe proved an admirable companion. Sturdy, utilitarian, yet refined, we tackled mud, high water and sand in style.

I’ll remember watching the evening’s fiery sunset at the edge of the world from the hotel’s cheerful, cherry-red chairs forever.

The off-the-beaten path Îles-de-la-Madeleine are so worth the journey. They say as soon as you leave, you’ll want to come back. Nous reviendrons, belles Îles.

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SPECIAL FEATURE

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FOR THE LOVE OF CONVERTIBLES A QUINTESSENTIAL QUINTET

Story and Photography

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Dan Heyman 61

2021 MAZDA MX-5

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ho doesn’t love a convertible, right? That feeling of air rushing through your hair on the way to a weekend retreat at the beach, or a nice, cool summer’s breeze on the way to the movies.

The celebrity status; convertibles are an icon of the American motoring landscape that is rife with famous cars through the years, often driven by famous people. The pink Cadillac Eldorado, circa 1959; the Ford Mustang, circa 1964; the Chevrolet Corvette, circa 1963. Elvis drove them, so did Hunter S. Thompson. Steve McQueen. Dr. Dre. Janis Joplin. United States President Joe Biden – the list goes on, and on.

flex, maybe more noise, more weight for the roof mechanism or chassis reinforcements that leads to slightly less performance – that kind of thing.

I have, however, always left a special place in my car enthusiasm for convertibles that were conceived as such, developed from the ground up as topless.

To me, they just seem to feel more “as one” and true than do vehicles that have to share platforms with coupes and other body styles.

The bottom line, though, is for all my handwringing, the convertible is still a romantic image, a sign of success, maybe that you’ve “made it” to the Here’s the thing, though: for all their notoriety, I point where you can afford to lay out the funds for was never a big fan. After all; the climate where a vehicle that doesn’t make a whole lot of logical I live means I’ll be able to have the top down sense. (comfortably, mind) only for about 30 per cent of the year. So, already, I’d kind of be missing out Not to mention that while we don’t have quite as on what makes these what they are, their raison many drop tops as we once did – especially when d’être. Then, on top of that, you have the inherent it comes to American manufacturers – the models engineering issues that crop up when you remove we do get still provide rewarding drives and always a large part of a car’s structure. More chassis a great sense of occasion.

2021 PORSCHE 911 CARRERA S CABRIOLET

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What follows is a sampling of what you can look way. The lever action is so addictive that you often forward to as the days get warmer and it comes find yourself shifting extra times as you get to a time to start planning those great road trips – or light just to feel it do its work. simple driving dates – once again.

Then, of course, there’s the handling.

THE TWO-FACED LEGEND We often hear especially sharp-handling vehicles When it comes to convertibles – or, in this particcompared to go-karts, but the MX-5 really does ular case, roadsters – the Mazda MX-5 (Miata) make good on that statement and is equalled by should probably be the car pictured next to the very few others – one of whom does appear on this definition of “convertible” in the OED. Since 1989, list. it has soldiered on, never missing a beat and always coming to the fore with fantastic engineering, cool Not only is it bout the direct steering, but also looks and a pedigree that few other cars can lay about how low you sit to the ground. So low that it feels like the road is rushing by, perilously close to claim to. your seat. It will give you goosebumps on the right Remember: the MX-5 was originally designed with surface. those great British roadsters of old in mind, except Mazda wanted to make one that, well, you know, Why “two-faced”? Well, while the MX-5 has actually worked. Indeed, you can see the inspira- always been a roadster, they released an “RF” tion from the Lotus Elan in the original Miata, version – “Retractable Fastback” -- in late 2016.

It eschews the soft top we’ve always known and especially when it has its hard top on. loved, and replaced it with a power targa-style roof Today, the MX-5 exists almost in a class all its own, the likes we’ve never seen before on an MX-5. As but Mazda hasn’t rested on its laurels. The current cool as it looks (especially when deploying or stow“ND” version of the car has more horsepower than ing), it adds weight in the name of more passenger any model before it (the 2004-2005 Mazdaspeed comfort which is a bit of a no-no for the legions of version does have more torque, however), is rear- MX-5 (Miata) purists out there. Plus, it means you wheel-drive and gets one of the slickest shift lever can no longer reach over from the driver’s seat at actions in the biz. Sure; you can get one in auto- a red light and open or close the roof with nothing matic with paddle shifters but come on; you’d be more an outstretched arm and a little bit of grunt. missing out on way too much fun if you went that The novelty never wears off.

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2022 MINI JOHN COOPER WORKS CONVERTIBLE

THE FUNKY ONE Remember those famous British roadsters we referenced? Well, this Mini John Cooper Works (JCW) Convertible isn’t one, but it does a darn fine job of playing one on TV, as it were.

has an automatic transmission, and it’s time for it to walk back to the dugout – or is it?

So there’s strike one against the Mini Convertible.

ultra-cool while it’s at it, all bassy an burpy and angry. You get that go-kart like feeling here, too, but it isn’t quite as true because unlike the MX-5, the Mini Convertible shares its underpinnings with other hardtop models and you’ve got the extra weight of the roof mechanism to deal with.

The saving grace here is that “JCW” designation, for John Cooper was the father of the original Mini Cooper – the one built to go racing – so you know You see, while the “new” Mini was obviously that even BMW wouldn’t take that name lightly. inspired by the original, there was never a convertIndeed, they haven’t. This baby churns out 228 ible version of the original, unless you include the hp and 236 lb-ft, all fed to the front wheels via an Mini Moke – which you probably shouldn’t be eight-speed automatic with paddle shifters. As a doing. Maybe in an article talking about the Willys result, forward progress is brisk (but doesn’t feel MB jeep, but not here. that much faster than the MX-5) and it sounds Then there’s the fact that Mini is now owned by BMW so not quite as British as it once was. Strike two. Add the fact that this particular model is turbocharged (never a feature of the original) and

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Of course when it comes to a Mini, the performance is one thing but its looks are entirely another.

There are few vehicles that can act as much as a fashion accessory as this can, and especially when finished in this shade of paint, appropriately called “Zesty Yellow”. Add the black headlight surrounds, windshield surround, grille and two-tone wheels and you’ve got style for days, if not months. This thing is cool, and quite possibly the coolest car on this list.

THE GRIZZLED VET Only, it’s not – this is.

staring at the deeply-recessed gauge display. You just want to throw that leather jacket on and send it.

This is where the convertible starts to come into focus. It’s almost an intangible feeling you get when you lower yourself into the seat, drop the top and just…sit. You take it all in – both the car and what’s outside of it – and you start to see why people love these. The sense of freedom is unlike anything else in the car world, so much so that even a drive to the supermarket can feel just that much more…special.

This is the Ford Mustang, and for me, it is the car I think of when I think of convertibles. RWD, V8-powered (if you want, you can also have a turbo four-banger, but as good as it is -- yeah, no) and with a bloody great big hood stretching out to the horizon ahead – indeed, it’s been doing this for going on six decades, hardly ever missing a beat.

Even the OPEC-strangled Mustang II, not a great on-road performer when it comes to the Mustang canon, was a huge seller.

Of course, with the Mustang, there’s also the performance; power from the base version of the V8 (which is the only version you can get with the convertible; the coupes have more choices) is rated at 460 hp and 420 lb-ft of torque – not too shabby. It gets sent to the rears via either a sixspeed manual or 10-speed automatic, and while the former is the sportsman’s choice, the latter may be the better choice for the convertible’s more grand-touring nature. Either way; that naturallyIn a Mustang, you feel like the big cheese, the head aspirated power gets deployed with little delay, the honcho, the man when you’re behind that great noise from the twin-outlet exhaust makes every three-spoke steering wheel (that, it must be said, tunnel drive an aural delight and when you’re in a could do with a few less buttons attached) and Mustang, everything seems right with the world.

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THE SCALPEL Speaking of going on for decades sans interruption – here’s another car that’s been doing the same and wouldn’t you know it? The Porsche 911 arrived around the same time the Mustang did.

Indeed, the early/mid-‘60s was a good time to be a sports car fan.

Of course, the 911 is bigger, wider and more powerful than ever – in 911 Carrera S form seen here, its turbo’d flat-6 lets fly with 443 hp and 390 lb-ft of torque, enough to have it complete the run to 100km/h in and around 3.5 seconds. Which, when the top’s down, feels a lot faster than that.

corner-to-corner transitions are undertaken with precision and balance.

As rear-engined Porsches have always been, you will feel that weight slung out behind you a little but so grippy are the tires, powerful the engine and smart and well-tuned the various chassis components, you will be able to push through most corners with hardly a hint of understeer. The steering, though now electronically boosted as opposed to hydraulically as it once was, is perfectly weighted and the response from the front axle – which still sits quite close to the driver – is immediate and you still get that road feel that one craves on this day of EPAS all the things. Add the Sport Chrono package that I had on my tester, and things are taken up yet another notch thanks to tech like active driveline mounts to keep vibrations down and add chassis stiffness. Which, of course, is important in a convertible.

Being of “S” designation as opposed to “4S” also means that this is the RWD version, which, as we’ve argued throughout this tale, is the way to go in the convertible world. The lighter weight of an RWD car means the extra weight of the top mechanism isn’t exacerbated quite as much and since Porsche has gone with a single body style for both The telltale sign that a 911 has the Sport Chrono the 2 and 4 models, the Carrera 2 now gets the package, of course, is that analogue clock sitting great flared fenders that used to be reserved only atop the dash. As if just dropping the top wasn’t for the 4. enough of a thrill, the feeling you get as you stare Flared fenders, of course, mean nice wide tires and out between those pontoon-like fenders with that a wide track, meaning the stance is nice and low – clock whizzing away just in your lower peripheral is even with the “hump” required to fit the roof – and a tough one to match anywhere in this business.

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2021 MERCEDES-BENZ E 450 CABRIOLET

THE GRAND TOURER While the Mustang’s “GT” moniker does stand for “grand touring”, the the Mercedes-Benz E 450 Cabriolet takes the cake in that department. It has nine gears, all-wheel-drive, the plushest interior by a long shot (finished here in white with navy accents to match the soft top – my oh my) and the most technologically-advanced cockpit with dual digital displays, augmented-reality navigation, ambient lighting and numerous “themes” to choose from (one of which – Lounge – makes the interior glow pink and automatically turns on the Burmester Hi-Fi system).

get you out of most any sticky situation.

While the Mini sounds all bulldog-like, and the Mustang all Detroit muscle, the Benz has a somewhat sonorous howl that manages to sound menacing and melodic all at the same time. Either way; it’s enough to show that this particular Benz drop can take as honest a crack at any fun b-road as the rest of this list. It will never be quite as fast as the Porsche in the hands of even the most experienced drivers, but for all its splashy interior bits and feature-rich environment, there’s a darn fine drive to be had here.

Not to mention that even though the E-Class Convertible sits below the S-Class and GT in the Mercedes convertible line-up, it has fantastic presence and its styling has it on-par with cars costing much more than it does. A look at the elegant headlight shapes, the multi-spoke wheels Power comes courtesy of a inline-6 turbo motor and twin tailpipes shows a car with all the right to the tune of 362 hp and 369 lb-ft, the latter of elegant luxury design flourishes, but with some which reaches its plateau at a lowly 1,500 rpm. This real purpose as well. It’s the best-looking car here is an effortlessly fast car whose low-end grunt will and in the convertible world, that matters.

Of course, while the Benz is well suited to wafting along the expressway or boulevard on the way to the ballet, weekend resort, steakhouse or what have you, one should ignore its performance chops at one’s peril.

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FEATURED MOTORCYCLE

FIRST RIDE 68

2022 INDIAN FTR R CARBON Story and Photography

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Matthew Neundorf 69

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hen Miguel Galuzzi was asked about the philosophy behind his iconic 1992 Monster he famously quipped “all a bike needs is a saddle, engine, two wheels, handlebars and tank to fill with fuel…”. Stripped of body panels, windscreens and other redundancies, Galuzzi’s minimalist approach set the framework for naked motorcycle design for decades to come.

Fire up the liquid-cooled, 60-degree, 1,203 cubiccentimetre engine and it rumbles through the Akrapovic exhaust. There are 120 wild-horses waiting to be unleashed and 84 pound-feet of torque, too. Throttle response -- something of an issue from the last generation of FTRs -- is smooth and well refined. Three riding modes can be toggled via the joystick on the left handlebar (Rain, Standard, The 2022 Indian FTR R Carbon, however, is more Sport) but Sport is the one you want. than just another naked motorcycle. It has some- Suspension is top notch. A fully adjustable Öhlins thing that extends well beyond its saddle, engine, fork and an equally tweakable, race spec, piggyback, two wheels, handlebars and tank to fill with fuel. internal floating piston shock, also from Öhlins, First of all, just a look at it. I mean literally, extend your arms and hold this magazine a little further from your eyes, and take in the entirety of this bike. Do you see it? Every line, angle and curve has been meticulously honed as form contributing to function.

connects the tubular swingarm to the gorgeous trellis frame. In factory settings, the ride is well tuned for my 84 kg frame, absorbing bumps and communicating road feel. Of course, their signature gold colouring also provides for a nice visual accent here too.

The bone line -- the line that bisects the lamp, tank, seat and tail -- is as straight and flat as a prairie highway. The primary and secondary angles created via the suspension, frame, swingarm and subframe, are repeated, creating balance while the visual weight of the engine is isolated from the subframe to communicate presence and intent.

The science of symmetry is at play here.

Acceleration is ferocious. The cupped, premium seat of the R Carbon version of the FTR keeps you locked in position. The bars could stand to be a bit wider for my liking but deliver immediate control and provide a comfortable perch. Braking, courtesy of Brembo, is more than ample.

Hustle into a corner and the 17-inch wheels (down from 18-rear, 19-front in last year’s version) help To translate that visual balance into a formidable quicken handling. The FTR is stable throughout performance machine, engineers placed the FTR’s a corner and rewards with both sound and speed fuel cell beneath the saddle -- the carbon-fibre upon exit. “tank” we see is really just an airbox. This keeps the centre of gravity low and, like the flat-tracker Minimal in design, maximal in performance, the it draws inspiration from, places heft over the 2022 Indian FTR R Carbon is proof of concept: rear wheel. beauty can also be the beast.

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EV AVENUE

THE HILLS ARE ALIVE! ELECTRIC BMWS FROM MUNICH TO THE ALPS

Story 72

I

Evan Williams

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he hills were alive with the sound of internal combustion engines echoing across the valleys well in advance of flashes of brightwork and sun on chrome. High-performance motorcycles, a rainbow’s worth of exotics from the likes of Lotus and Lamborghini, even single-seat open-wheel cars from the 1930s or earlier buzzed up and down the sides of the Bavarian Alps near the tiny town of Berchtesgaden. My convoy was silent. Whisking silently up and down the hillsides in BMW’s latest EVs, the i4 M50 and the iX xDrive50, destroying the tarmac, but not the peace and tranquility.

wiener schnitzel, warm potato salad, and pretzels the size of a truck tire, this was an afternoon of wandering, not driving.

A few weeks ahead of the festival proper, our small group instead visited the Biergarten am Chinesischen Turm. A large beer garden in the 18th-century urban forest called the Englischer Garten that makes up much of Munich’s downtown. With litre-sized mugs of beer thrown at us - with amounts of foam that would have been a crime in the UK - along with healthy portions of

continuous wave on the Eisbach as it resurfaces near the Englischer Garten is a welcome one.

Though the artificial wave is surrounded by unforgiving stone walls, at least the water is warmer than the Atlantic this time of year. I’m loaded up on pretzels and Hofbräu, so I’m not taking part, but watching each surfer take their turn is a great way to let lunch settle and relax on a warm fall day.

Munich’s old town, like many old cities of Europe, has fascinating architecture when compared to similar cities elsewhere in the world including the more remote regions of Europe or the oldest Canada has to offer. While some of the buildings are hundreds of years old, most were rebuilt within the last 70 years, restored to their original form.

You’re seeing them as they would have existed when first built, with the exception of horses and Even the best road trip can’t start and end in the sewers, not as they stand after hundreds of years mountains, though. Instead, our week started in of neglect.

Munich with a chance to explore the historic city and what we’re told is the biggest celebration of For an East-coaster like me, the sight of eager Oktoberfest east of Kitchener-Waterloo. surfers lined up for a shot at the unique single

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Greenspace abounds, an excellent transit system includes trams that will absolutely sneak up on you without a single worry, and since most of the city is flat ground it is extremely walkable. During my week, the city was filled with small festivals related to the auto show, but there seemed to be similar fairs much of the year.

Once finished with the city and its hustle and bustle, it was time to head south toward the Alps along the highways that have been the siren call of North American speed enthusiasts for decades: The Autobahn, in this case, the A8. Germany offered many more scenic ways to get to the hills, but if you get the chance to take one of these famed highways, you don’t pass it up.

signaled left and made the move over.

Suddenly, I was in the left lane and accelerating flatout in the BMW iX. The SUV forged on silently up to its limited top speed (double the highway limit here) while I kept one eye on the mirror, the other on the car in front, and one on the cars coming up behind slow trucks in the right lane.

I won’t give you driving tips for the Autobahn, but I will say that when you’re driving north of 180km/h, your exit comes up a lot more quickly than you had expected. And German off-ramps are short. Extremely short, both for entering and exiting. You’ve been warned, I learned the iX has excellent brakes.

The fear of BMW M5s and Mercedes-Benz S 65s Off of the highway, we’re into the Bavarian counpassing at double my speed faded, at least enough tryside. Fields of corn and wheat line the roads for excitement to take the controls, and I finally like Saskatchewan had been draped over the foot

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of the Rocky Mountains and then spattered with farmhouses and villages straight out of a classic movie. Want to build out here? You can have white walls with brown roof and trim, and that’s it.

If it’s not a law, it might as well be, because the only buildings that don’t follow it are the tall stone belltowers and buttresses of the church that is the center of each village and town.

known for its salt mines, then for its popularity with the Bavarian royals, and then became a sort of resort for US officials stationed in Germany until 1995. It is also the town nearest the infamous Kehlsteinhaus, or Eagle’s Nest, once a fortress, now an extremely opulent restaurant accessed by tour bus.

The area is home to multiple peaks that brush up against 3,000 metres tall, along with numerous lakes and the valleys that accompany this, but it’s not the top of those peaks I’m here for. The views are excellent, but it’s the roads that wind, twist, and double back as they ascend and descend the mountains that create a symphony for the automobile. The i4 in Sport Boost mode loves every moment of it as much as I do with M-car turn-in, quicker than M throttle response, traction control that is near-instantaneous (you don’t want to turn off all of the nannies when you’re on the edge of a Arriving in Berchtesgaden was my sign mark- literal mountain) to reroute power, and no worries ing official arrival in the Alps. The area was once about losing performance as you climb higher.

The signature of the German back road is perfect pavement, and that is a big part of what makes them ideal for driving quickly. The other parts are the twisting, turning, and changes of altitude along with excellent visibility and speed limits of 100km/h. If you’re wondering how those high speeds work, consider them more of a maximum than a minimum, the way we treat them here. Sure it’s great if you can go that fast, but nobody will tailgate you if you decide you’d rather take it slow and watch the scenery.

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All that’s missing from the i4 is the inline-six soundtrack, and if I’m being honest with myself, I don’t care. With the roads, scenery, and power, more noise isn’t missed. There are more important things to be paying attention to, and if you need an internal combustion soundtrack, drop a window and you’ll hear dozens.

Look for a list of the best places to drive in Germany and you’ll find much of that list is made up of roads here in the Bavarian Alps, and from the license plates, they have drawn visitors from around Europe. Spend an entire day taking life out of your tires on the pavement, spend the evening watching the sunset over the snowy mountain peaks. Even for an EV, like the BMW i4 and iX I’m driving, this is a wonderful place - credit here to Europe’s 240V mains power making every plug a Level 2 charger.

Every road trip, though, has that one road that got away. Or maybe it’s the road you save for next time? For me, this was the Rossfeld Panorama Strasse, a toll road that wound to the absolute top of the mountains and overlooked both Germany and Austria. Why did I miss it? A warning from the GPS, in German, telling me not to go there for reasons I couldn’t understand. Next time, and there will be a next time, that road will be mine.

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DISCOVERED

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VINCENZA KART INDOOR AN OCTANE-POWERED PARAGON

Story Kyra Sacdalan

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Photography Justin W. Coffey 79

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urning to face us as we entered the waiting learned firsthand in my penultimate visit. room, Manny flashed a deliberate smirk.

I had felt it for the last few laps, the tell-tale sign of “Well, I guess this is the last time we see each an impending storm. Lightning had crept towards other as friends…” the track since qualifying but no one cared – whether or not they had skin in the game. Ever In 2001, a momentous occasion occurred one the novice, I had the impression that Q1 included afternoon in Northern Italy. Three partners – a warmup lap, so I’d allowed far too many serious Matteo, the Front Man, Simone, the Maestro, drivers to sneak around me in the pecking order. and a silent third we’ll refer to as the Office Man The other half weren’t much of a bother. I knew – proverbially kicked open the tinted glass doors of Vincenza Kart Indoor (VKI for short) and I’d catch them when we turned it up. But alas, my welcomed-in their first batch of devotees. And in kook mistake which kept me light on the pedal put an instant, without warning, lifelong mates from all me at 9th in the lineup when the real race started. over the Veneto Region became mortal enemies, About three or four laps until the finale, droplets if only for a handful of laps. No one knew at the began to bridge together earth and sky, slowly, but time that this multi-level warehouse would be just enough to change the terrain. Rubber began to destined for greatness. A mirage at the fringes of lose its grip, and I channeled the book “The Art of the Dolomites, emerging as a phoenix out of the Racing in the Rain” by Garth Stein, waiting… watchashes of some dull factory or commercial space, ing… And as I suspected, the smooth corners my intentionally choosing a cycle of rebirth, thanks adversaries flowed through in our former passes to the owners’ unique vision of fluidity for their began to squeal as they inadvertently drifted upon fledgling circuit. With engineer Simone play- exit, subsequently allowing their pace to dwindle ing God, crafting and molding his twisty, Laguna enough for me to strike.

Seca inspired, off-camber ideas until they’re ready I was on his ass for a lap and a to be released, rising brighter and more glorious half. We were fast approachwith each resurrection. By the present-day, they ing the onramp which led to would offer high-powered Sodikarts, some clevthe most heavenly, gravityerly altered to accommodate disabled guests or an defying corkscrew descending additional passenger for teaching purposes, plus into a soft righthand turn that a number of variations of karting routes planned finished after two 90-degree around capricious weather patterns. Something I apexes. This is my section.

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Maybe it’s all the hours of Mario Kart in my formative years, but it’s here that I found my Zen. Even when I’m neck and neck with the opposition and we’re rubbing bumpers trying to reach the top of the platform – no matter how slowly I entered – when it was time to tip over the edge, I didn’t drift or hesitate or give in to the lingering “what if” feeling and tap my brakes. When I’m sending it down Spirale, I fly. He had no chance. I only pick up speed at the bottom, so I outdistanced “green helmet” with a solid gap by the S-curves. We were told the space where the wood and slab meet is covered in polyurethane with a little quartz on top, for grip. It was so effective, they had to dial back the mix to allow tires more playroom upon exiting the curl. To me, the fix was perfection.

to transform itself, if only slightly, before the more tenacious drivers can memorize the maze.

At first, the course held true to its name, keeping the single-story path confined to the “indoors” – doubling every year until 2005, when the concrete outgrew its cage. Still only ground-level, a bit of track now spilled outside. At last in 2007, fortune favoured the Italian trio. Presenting them with an opportunity to secure the neighboring lots and turn Vincenza Kart Indoor into what most closely resembles the racetrack today, still allotting room for a myriad of modifications. This (ish) is how I first saw VKI, some nine years later. And it blew my mind. Granted, I had never… You might need to sit down …never sat four inches from the pavement, grinding it out with my comrades along a purposeThis petrol playground hasn’t been burdened by built course, gripping the wheel of a Sodikart. Or mortality, never nearer to closing its doors until any kart! Until this day. But my shameful past the pandemic. And still, VKI is steadfast. The busi- aside, Simone’s imagination had produced someness, in its 20th year, hasn’t waned in popular- thing by which anyone would be impressed. ity or feared destiny might stamp out its brilliant flame from the beginning. With the Maestro holdMy first pass felt marvelous, but I had no time to celebrate. My ing the pencil, not a pen, success was drawn into rival wasn’t about to let me have the blueprints. The twists and turns as exhilaratmy new position without a fight, ing as they are fleeting. Never lasting so long you and time was running out. The become comfortable, or worse, complacent. Everelectrical symphony would be expanding, much like the Winchester Mystery reaching its crescendo soon – House (and just as maddening), VKI’s track tries just above our heads.

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I battled the Green Hornet through the culminating laps, with another foe joining in on the fun after I passed him (again, down the curlicue), however he ultimately bested me when Manny accidentally bumped my kart approaching a turn. Moving back and forth with my former victim, I left him behind once again when the rainfall at last made ice of the asphalt, and “Green” just couldn’t hold onto all 270cc’s of pure Honda power around the helicoid – his true nemesis it seemed. Almost colliding with this aluminum tornado, I saw a clearing on the inside and seized my last overtaking before Zeus opened the flood gates. We were in the terminal lap before it arrived. Heavy tears fell onto everything in sight, and we left our Honda-powered vessels tired, soaked and satisfied. Clearly, out of professional athlete shape, my exhaustion led to sloppy lines and 7th Place gave way to 9th. Out of the 22 vehicles, or out of ten, I would have been stoked all the same. I left victorious in my little world, ready to come back in week to do it all over again.

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A master stroke of engineering, Il Maestro – with some expert help from 360 Karting who made the ramps and safety barriers – combined concrete on the ground-level with marine grade 22mm plywood and a resin coating at elevation. Even in the earlier iterations of the course, one full revolution – pending all stations were open – took roughly about two solid minutes at an average speed. Then add to the mix a third inside floor and a steep incline to that open-air spiral descent [insert: weeee!], and by 2021, this heart-pumping, ass-sweating, palm-blistering speedway grew to a whopping 1.4 kilometres of unadulterated, bliss. I liked her in adolescence. A two-minute track is impressive. However, I fell in love when we came back in 2019 after they first unveiled Spirale, the second spiral in Europe. But this one was better, easier to maintain, and the planks allowed for adjustments, per the owners’ tastes. And even after some time apart, I stepped up to the post-outbreak holding cue at the entrance – masked and ready to have

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my temperature taken – still carrying butterflies in the trio’s Front Man be a smiling face at the counmy stomach. Excited at the chance to pull onto the ter, invited me to drive a few legs completely alone.

I spent the time wisely – studying the track, findcircuit a second time that week. ing my rhythm. It was key to my later performance.

The one which I stood waiting for in a little space We were funneled into the small room where VKI provided crammed with competitors. When one of the track helmets and head-socks for marshals shouted my pseudonym in his thick sanitary measures. Each cubby Italian intonation, I knew it was my turn to take a was equipped with its own dryer seat aboard the 180-kilo (it’s all in the protective plus an in-room high-grade features) race craft. Before I stepped out, Manny air purifier to kill bacteria and turned to the group and ended our alliance for the ensure moisture is a nonissue. next half an hour.

This place is also where we can slide on a ribprotector and chat with amici, our friends, before each nom de guerre is called out and assigned a kart. Manuel Lucchese – Manny to us – had introduced us to this haven. He’s been a patron since the inauguration, and it shows in his driving. We’d gathered up a group of local pals to have one last hoorah before Justin and I had to venture home to the States. It was a Friday afternoon, and already each round was full. I was eager to show everyone how much I thought I’d improved since our previous outing. Earlier that day, Davide, VKI’s Marketing Manager and his colleague who helps

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This was my night. I drove quicker than last week. Much quicker. I soared – the world melted in my peripherals. The blur told me what I needed to know: I was going fast.

In my mind, the soul of Michael Schumacher inhabited my body, and I let him take over. Meanwhile, from Justin’s point of view taking photos in the real world, I looked like bobble head doll steering a glorified lawn mower. Sometimes I think I missed the most vital parts of childhood. The mischief, the

cation in my achievement. Shutting my eyes for a nanosecond to take in the sweet smell of success just long enough that when they opened, before I’d reached the damned halfway mark on my closing lap, Manny, coming from dead-last [insert eye roll], casually pulled up alongside me, waved and bolted towards the wooden helix. The chase was on (again).

Pulled quickly back into reality, I gave him hellfire. As best I could at least. We bumped and grinded all the way up the slope.

It almost seemed like I had him too, just as we crested the final platform before descending.

injuries, facing my fears, no. Having no fear at all. I had none of it. I did what I was inherently good at, and I avoided failure at all costs. So, as promptly I climb towards middle age, I’m reliving a past I never had. At least at this point, I’m more courageous. More willing to fail, and it’s that acceptance which brought me, close enough, to the Winner’s Circle in the end. At the qualifier, I wasn’t surprised when I found myself in the first row of the grid, I knew I had it. I’d fought tooth and nail with my antagonist, a steely-eyed regular who showed no mercy to this pair of braids, and by some twist of fate, I overtook him. He’d been caught behind a rogue Kart at the back of the pack who’d given up all hope of competing so instead resigned to drifting aimlessly back and forth across the pavement.

Their carelessness might have been infuriating, had I been the one abruptly decelerated by the frivolity.

Instead, I was selfishly elated – happy to use any means necessary to take my place in front. I’d worked for it! Okay, not really… This was maybe my eighth or ninth time in command of a kart. My opponent spends much more time and resources honing his skills as a driver, so admittedly, he deserved the acclaim more than me. But I really wanted it. And this is racing. A business built around money, talent and dedication, with a prize won, too often, by luck. A circumstance of which I took full advantage. My forthcoming victory would not be tainted by remorse. So, as I felt the gap widen behind me and the distance to the finish line fast approaching, I betrayed just a moment of gratifi-

But he managed to sneak through the inside, and had I pushed, making contact could have spun me out in the least opportune location. It was that split-second I decided losing to a multi-time Moto Malle contender-slash-Motocross Championslash-VKI Legend was an honor. But losing to anyone else on track would be my life’s failure. So, I gave way to Manny and smashed the pedal to the floor, procuring all the finesse I could muster not to drift down the spiral as I channeled my favorite Mario Kart character.

By the end of it, I was battle-worn. Dumbfounded by the pros who compete with faster vessels, for many more rotations and under a lot more pressure. There were bruises in places which made no sense. My hands were tense, still clenching the invisible steering wheel, while I tried to remove my safety accoutrement. Freed, I dragged my sweatsoaked limbs into the building, grateful for the invention of climate control. Everyone gathered around the lobby waiting to see their times. In some strange intuitive way, I knew I’d placed well but still never expected second. In my very short racing career, this was the best I’d ever finished.

It had been a long time since I tasted the intoxicating elixir of hard-earned glory. Probably some twenty years, when team sports were still a thing for me. But seeing my unflattering iPad photo sitting above the words “2nd Place” was rejuvenating. A boost of confidence which I didn’t know I lacked. An energy to sign myself up for another round of punishment. I might not quit my day job for a career in karting, but there’s no doubt my daydreams have been changed forever. All thanks to three good men and one amazing racetrack.

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FEATURED REGION

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WHISTLER, BRITISH COLUMBIA 2021 AUDI E-TRON SPORTBACK

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ith staycations and road trips appearing to be the holidaying norm moving forward, choosing the ideal vehicle and and destination becomes essential. In the case of beautiful British Columbia, is there a better pairing than the allelectric Audi e-tron and the outdoor mecca known as Whistler?

Roughly a two-hour drive from Vancouver’s vibrant downtown, the area receives approximately three million visitors annually and boasts many activities in addition to the winter sports it’s built an international reputation on. We took the “green” crossover on a weekend getaway up into the mountains earlier in the year to discover some of the best the resort has to offer.

DRIVE The e-tron is the first fully zero-emissions Audi product. Introduced in 2018, a sleeker fastback variant dubbed the Sportback followed the original SUV, which we had the chance to test over a few days. Almost tailored for the unpredictable west coast climate, the “coupe” styled utility vehicle features two powerful electric motors —one installed at each axle delivering an electric version of the company’s signature quattro all-wheel drive — generating 355 horsepower and 414 pound-feet of torque.

Mode that, when activated, temporarily increases the output to 402 horsepower and 490 lb-ft of torque. This is good enough to get the 2,000-kilogram-plus e-tron from 0 to 100km/h in a scant 5.5 seconds.

Blasting along an empty stretch of highway, the binary acceleration happens in seemingly instantaneous fashion. Smiles continued around the high altitude bends thanks to a near 50:50 weight distribution ratio, as well as standard adaptive air suspension constantly adjusting the damping level to provide taut handling or a comfortable ride depending on the individual situation — one passenger compared the latter to floating on a cloud.

Coated in cool Plasma Blue Metallic paint exclusive to the limited Edition One model, there are all sorts of neat design elements: cue the contrast silver Singleframe grille, big gold-colour brake calipers and 20-inch blade-spoke alloy wheels. The interior of the top Technik trim loaner was quite futuristic: LED illumination everywhere you look, haptic feedback aluminum control buttons and a massive 12.3-inch virtual cockpit plus display showing a variety of customizable information like battery life and remaining travel distance.

Speaking of the battery, the e-tron utilizes a highBlessed with sunny weather during our adven- capacity 95-kilowatt-hour lithium-ion battery ture, the environment was ripe to test the Boost advertised with a range of some 350 kilometres.

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Fully licensed and open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, there are a number of standouts such as the ahi tuna poke and chips starter containing avocado, jalapeno, pickled onions; or the impossibly tender 10-ounch Certified Angus Beef striploin steak served with a side of fingerling potatoes, Try as I might, I couldn’t do better than 247 kilo- seasonable vegetables and red wine jus. metres between plug-ins, though the steep routes PLAY and spirited driving obviously played a factor. A full Daylight is no longer a prerequisite for a trek top-up at a 240-volt Level 2 charger takes approxi- through the magnificent forests of Whistler. mately nine hours, however Whistler Village has a Vallea Lumina takes visitors on a multimedia night single public DC fast charger that can cut that time walk, comprised of immersive lighting, sounds, down to just 30 minutes (80 per cent capacity). videos and even holograms used to tell the story of The base Audi e-tron Sportback starts at starts at a father and daughter who mysteriously vanished $89,100 in Canada. in the woods, along a 1.5-kilometre trail on nearby STAY Nestled away up in the Coast Mountains is the four-star Westin Resort & Spa, a stone’s throw from the village. Recently renovated in 2018, the family friendly hotel has over a 100 rooms — including two-bedroom suites with a balcony and loft units — all featuring full kitchens, fireplace, soaker tub and trademark “Heavenly Bed.”

Cougar Mountain.

A joint project between Montreal-based entertainment studio Momentum Factory and local tour operator The Adventure Group, the experience is fun for all ages and not too physically demanding although wearing comfortable close-toed shoes are recommended. Driving from the village takes about eight minutes, or hop on the complimentary In terms of amenities, guests may enjoy the use shuttle. And either before or after the short hike, of a well-stocked fitness room and unique indoor/ warm up in front of the fire pits and grab a snack outdoor hybrid pool and hot tub. Underground and a souvenir at the concession stand outside the parking is available on-site for a fee, and a select entrance. number of spots have adjacent 120-volt outlets for (albeit slow) EV charging.

EAT An abundance of restaurants exists at the resort, but why venture out when Grill & Vine offers fine dining right inside the Westin? The contemporary eatery highlights fresh, sustainable ingredients in its creation of Pacific Northwest-centric dishes.

FEATURED SUV

ROAD TEST 90

2021 MERCEDES-AMG G 63 Story and Photography I

Dan Heyman

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he Mercedes-AMG G 63 may just be one of the most legendary SUVs of all time. After all; when you’re pretty much shaped exactly as you were when you debuted almost five decades ago but are still able to command enough interest that folks are searching the world over to get one, you’re doing something right.

details; twin side outlet exhaust on each side, classic roundel headlights, bright green paint and door locks that sound like a rifle bolt when you plip the keyfob. So they should sound loud; they are an excellent preview of what this truck itself sounds like, especially if you’ve selected the loud exhaust setting. You will be moving quickly when you dip Th G-Class – especially in AWG G 63 form – is a that throttle, and you will hear about it. very limited run vehicle. So much so that they’re You sit high, in command of everything around commanding such interest in the aftermarket that you – both inside and out – and the windows are certain governments are having to levy special taxes on them to keep the market from running so tall that you feel like you can see out for miles, making this beast of a vehicle surprisingly threadrampant. able when in town. Not that you have to do too And why shouldn’t they be so sought after? Just much threading; most people are just going to get look at it; all chiseled, with huge fenders, huge out of your way. rear-mounted spare tire, huge 22-inch wheels and huge power, to the tune of 577 horsepower There are few cars available in showrooms today and 627 pound-feet of torque. Then there are the that have true legend status. This is one of them.

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DISCOVERED

GOBSMACKED IN THE GASPÉSIE A RIDING TRAVELOGUE

Story and Photography | Matthew Neundorf 94

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We rightfully decided to let the AY 1: If you want to get technical, day 1 started crow keep its speedy route and last night. In an effort to trim some highway follow the path of a flatulent slogging from what will be our longest day, my moth instead. Sure it means cousin and I opted to head up to my cottage the extra hours and kilometres evening before official departure. Our reasoning on the bikes but it also means was sound -- trim those kms, get a good night’s twists and turns, no 401, sleep and an early start -- but a stop at Corbyville’s no Autoroute 20 and most importantly, no Montreal.

Signal Brewery for dinner and the accompanying carryout didn’t leave us as fresh as initially desired, come sun up.

Not that a requisite stint on the 40 is all that much Our phones chime their alarm with the kind of better. Cracked, pot-holed et bouché avec beausynchrony the two of us tend to share on these coup des Québécois en vacances, our pace slows trips. After eight years of making multiple annual considerably. Zut, alors! two wheeled escapes, we have an ebb that flows.

To break the monotony we decide to swap rides at By 6:17 the bikes -- mine a 2015 Triumph Tiger lunch. Sure, we’re both riding middleweight Tigers 800 XCx, his is a box-fresh 2021 Tiger 900 GT but with six years and an eternity’s worth of tech Pro -- are packed, ready and northbound to high- development between them, Jeff’s shiny new way 7.

900 has me working mental finances to see if I

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should be considering an upgrade. The engine is stronger, quicker, sounds incredible, and the electronic suspension makes the broken road feel as dreamy as Cool Whip. I reluctantly give it back at the next fuel stop and file those memories for later consideration.

DAY 2: Crossing the bridge over the Saguenay, I bear witness to the prettiest sunrise I think I’ve ever seen. It casts the southern leg of the mighty Saguenay river in a mix of red and orange that’s mixing with fog and mist to create a scene that could warm the coldest of souls.

Riding through Ste-Anne-de-Beaupré and memories of thirty-plus-year-old school trips flood my hippocampus. My high school years were highlighted with annual treks to the city’s mountain for multi-day snowboarding escapes. The views are certainly different without the snow, but there is familiarity and comfort around here.

I curse myself for not firing up the GoPro to capture and share its beauty. It’s mesmerizing, life affirming, humbling. C’est magnifique! I quickly decide this is a time and place for me and me alone. Sorry, gang. Come here yourself and snag one of your own. Trust me -- it’s worth it. And so is the route out of town.

Just shy of 900km later and our wheels are rolling onto the best road of the day. Route 170 is the southern half of the Fjord Route and offers up 150kms of empty, winding and rolling asphalt running north from Saint-Siméon to Chicoutimi.

The road is epic in every sense of the word, following the carved-out corridor of glacial construction.

The scenery it scythes through is peppered with sheer cliffs, mountain passes and tiny villages competing for your attention.

A spell of rain does little to slow our pace as we’ve both essentially fused with our machines at this point. After around 1000km and eleven-ish hours in the saddle, the precipitation is energizing for the final stretch.

Southbound, the other half of the Fjord Route, labelled as the Route de Tadoussac, squirms in similar fashion to yesterday’s highlight reel, only this time it runs right alongside the river. At this time of day its beauty is rivalled only by its emptiness, save for the fog that’s yet to burn off. I’m praying it stays that way, at least as far as moose and deer are concerned.

We made tracks at the crack of dawn in order to ensure our 11:00am ferry crossing in Godbout, some 370kms away. While the visuals and empty road are truly glorious, the temperatures are hovering around the il fait froid levels of comfort. My heated grips are working wonders but I’m envious of Jeff’s toaster of a seat.

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Route 138 running east along the northern coast of the St. Lawrence River seems to pick up exactly where the Route de Tadoussac left off. Rising and falling, it hugs the mouth of the Marine Highway that sees over 200 million tonnes of cargo slip through it annually. I spot a few fully laden ships in the distance but am sure their numbers are down from normal times.

The F.-A.-Gauthier enlists its various thrusters to slide into Godbout’s terminal while a collection of riders, drivers and pedestrians gather to snap photos of its final maneuvers.

Being a motorcyclist has its advantages here as we’re not only first to board, but we’ll be the first let off on the other side, in Matane.

Settling in with a pint, the two-hour tour across the mighty St. Lawrence is smooth, relaxing even -- a nice break after our early morning hustle. From here on out, we have no set schedules, just some dots on the map to connect and the birthplace of Canada to explore.

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Disembarking the ferry, we ride to the interior and pick up a portion of the Trans Quebec Trail.

The riding is easy until gravel gives way to mud.

Apparently a storm ripped through here while we were enjoying those pints. We slip n’ slide our way through ascending parts of Mount Logan and bisecting bits of Gaspésie National Park. It’s work in parts but the rewards are worth it. Exiting the park we set up camp for the night in Cap Chat and we plonger nos orteils dans la fleuve, on the northern coast of the mighty St. Lawrence.

DAY 3: I have the JetBoil going and coffee in the works before Jeff starts to stir. Our dinner last night was a lobster feast complete with garlic butter.

Prepared by the campsite, it was devoured while watching the sun set slowly over the river. The view ranks near as high as the one that had started that day, although this time I snapped pics to share. It’s events like these that will tattoo themselves onto one’s soul.

The steam from my first cuppa has apparently awakened some garlicky-butter remnants in my moustache and beard. It sure as hell ain’t napalm, but it smells like victory to me.

Route 132 winds away around the entirety of the Gaspe Peninsula’s scenic coastline.

I’ve already ridden large chunks of the Pacific Coast Highway, lapped the Isle of Man, tamed the Tail of the Dragon and hit countless other bucket-list strips of asphalt in my time, and I’d put 132 up against any one of them. It is quite simply one of the best riding roads I’ve ever experienced.

small donation to help with upkeep, and read about the legend of Blanche de Beaumont. As we do, the skies darken considerably, rain begins to fall and I wonder if Mme. de Beaumont’s ghost is still playing tricks.

That wonder is confirmed when our Google Maps route pitches us along an ATV trail enroute to Dalhousie, NB. Construction on the paved way into town has closed the road, and somehow the wizards of Mountain View have redirected us onto thirty kilometres of slippery, shale lined single It earns that crown because there aren’t really track. Technically it’s labelled as “Thompson Road” stand out sections to speak of: the whole thing but it isn’t a road at all and surely never has been.

-- taken in its entirety -- is just incredible. Almost Clearly, Mme. de Beaumont’s ghost is wise with all of the tarmac is new and smooth and even the Google-Fu. Merci! dated parts are kept in good knick. The views, sounds and smell of the sea are always there while, DAY 4: The penultimate day of our trip sees us cliffs, waterfalls, mountains, towns and light- back in la belle province, rejoining route 132. As it winds along the Matapedia river, my eyes are drawn houses swap places in our periphery. to the collection of covered bridges along the In 1534, Jacques Cartier found safe harbour in the way. Unknowingly, the one we stop at to admire bay of Gaspé. The history books will tell you that the is the oldest surviving example in the entirety intrepid explorer stuck a cross in the ground and of the Gaspé; the Heppell Bridge. Built in 1909 claimed the land in King Francis I’s name. What and measuring 39 metres in length, it crosses those books won’t mention is that the historical the Matapedia and provides local anglers with an landmark labelled as “the Birthplace of Canada” excellent spot to fly fish. now competes with a McDonalds for tourists’ attention. We barely notice the spot as we pull our Working through the Gaspe highlands, towards the north bikes out of Gaspé and point them towards Percé coast, I’m amazed at just how Rock.

The arched island of limestone can be spotted long before the borders of Percé are crossed. We arrive during high-tide, so a walk over via the sandbar to the geological icon is sadly not in our cards.

We take a short hike to snag some views, make a

slender the peninsula actually is. There are a myriad of logging roads and dusty trails to explore and extend the trip, but along the main route the St. Lawrence will reappear after only an hour and a half.

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Crossing the Pont du Quebec, memories of previous trips to Quebec City begin to permeate my helmet. Typically those occurred during Carnaval du Quebec. A magical time, to be sure, mais il fait froid et glacial en hiver. It’s nice to be here in the heart of the summer sun, quand il fait chaud et ensoleillé.

Few buildings, let alone hotels, enjoy the emblematic status of the city they are situated in as Quebec’s Fairmont Le Château Frontenac. A little older and much bolder than the Heppell bridge, the Château overlooks the lower town of Old Quebec city, castle-like, from its perch on the Cap Diamant section of the promontory of Quebec.

We poke around the cobblestones, ice cream in hand, and stop for another beer. Sitting on something other than my bike’s saddle feels foreign but good and we debate stairs versus funicular for our trip back to the upper town.

Instead of campfire lobster, we aim for a meal at Aux Anciens Canadiens but have to settle elsewhere as it’s completely booked. We’re both blown away by the sheer number of people out on the town. It’s refreshing to be a part of something resembling normal in such an incredible place, but we’ve masked up just the same.

You can’t help but be awestruck by both its presence and architecture. The combination of Scottish baronial and French château style (penned by an American, no less) combine to create a gothic appearance that is both proudly rooted in Europe and somehow distinctly Canadian.

DAY 5: Knowing our ride home into the GTA today will feel more like a long commute, we’ve agreed to further indulge with the Château’s Premium Breakfast. The brioche is flaky, buttery and delicious and I’d normally be happy to finish with the yogurt parfait, but bacon, eggs, beans and toast Jeff and I both feel a little undeserving and under- follow. There will be no need to stop for lunch along dressed as we enter the grand mahogany lobby -- the way and I’m doubting I’ll want dinner at the end we don’t usually spoil ourselves by bedding down in of the trip. luxurious digs. Dishevelled, sweaty, and our riding gear neither cleaned nor pressed, we don’t exactly We again avoid the traffic and congestion of blend in with the clientele. No matter, as we’re Montreal by dipping down onto the south shore, treated as cordially as if we were Ewan and Charlie through Brossard. When Route 30 curls back stopping in, mid-way round. A pair of local brews up to meet the 20, we’re only minutes from the are sitting on ice and even some truffle popcorn Ontario border and, despite having nearly fivehundred kilometres left to cover, this trip feels as awaits in our room. though it culminates at that imaginary line.

Jeff has never been to Quebec, let alone explored its historic old town, so I’m glad we arrived early so All told, we covered just over 3,500km of ground on this trip. Upon reflection that number feels I can show him around as best I can. small as every metre covered could have been much more expansive. Like most of this incredible country, adventure, excitement and discovery often lies beneath the surface and, despite enjoying every minute of this journey, we know we’ve only scratched at mere fragments of it. The beauty and terrain of eastern Quebec, in particular the Gaspé, is second to none in Canada. Steeped in history and bubbling with beauty, it’s a region begging for you to create times and places to call your own. And there’s no better way to do so, than on two wheels.

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FIRST DRIVE

GEORGIA ON MY MIND 2022 PORSCHE VEHICLE BLITZ

Story 102

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Kelly Taylor

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ucked away among the cedars and tall pines of northern Georgia, surrounded by row upon row of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and a handful of other grape varietals, is one man’s ode to the Porsche Speedster. Here, high on the Dahlonega Plateau about 120 kilometres north of Atlanta, Karl Boegner maintains eight of Porsche’s finest examples of sports cars.

“The car’s like 1,800 pounds, so that’s plenty enough,” he says.

Other cars in the collection include a 1962 notchback Speedster, of which Boegner estimates only 50 remain worldwide of the 699 that were built.

As well, there’s an 89 Speedster, a 1974 Carrera — a four-cylinder model with the engine short enough it’s basically a mid-engine. Boegner says The pride of Boegner’s collection may well be the that means it lacks the tail-happy attitude of some 1958 Speedster restored for actor and singer Olivia six-cylinder models.

Newton-John following her 1978 blockbuster While the cars are parked inside for most of their Grease. Boegner, proprietor and winemaker emeri- time on the mountain, they’re far from static tus at Wolf Mountain Winery, says he’s owned the displays. Boegner says each car gets at least 20 car for 25 years, and upgraded the engine to the miles per week of driving time. “They’re mechaniSC engine first introduced in 1964, which after cal devices. If they’re not drivin’ they’re dyin’,” he some tweaks produces about 105 horsepower, 10 says with a laugh. He likes driving ONJ’s ’58 the more than the standard SC and nearly 50 horse- most. power more than the stock 1958 1600 engine’s Of all the cars here, it’s the one that got away 59 horsepower. that’s most noteworthy. Boegner says he had dibs

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on Bruce Jennings’ 1959 Carrera Speedster, which was stored at Laguna Seca Raceway at the time.

Worried he’d have to sell too many of his cars to pay for it, plus pay to trailer it back from California, he passed. “I could have had it for $240,000. It just went at the Porsche Museum for $2.2 million,” he says in a 2020 video.

One of the dangers of bringing automotive journalists and enthusiasts to a place such as Wolf Mountain, and arranging for a tour of the owner’s collection, is it might just steal the show. So without further ado, here’s the real reason we’re here.

It’s to drive the 2022 Porsche 911 GTS, Macan, Macan S, Cayman T, 911 Targa, and Cayenne GT. Fortunately, the roads around Wolf Mountain offer

An eight-speed automatic transmission transfers power to the Porsche Traction Management all-wheel drive with map-controlled electronic clutch. It all rides on Porsche Active Suspension Management air suspension with variable ride height.

a delightful demonstration of the handling abilities of each. The flagship, at least for this program, is the Cayenne GT, the first time the GT moniker — which makes frequent appearances on Cayman and 911 models — has been applied to the company’s big SUV. With a turbocharged V-8 engine, the Cayenne GT commands 631 horsepower and 626 poundfeet of torque, yet despite all that power on tap, it continues to display Porsche’s ability to make very powerful vehicles feel very daily-drivable. It’s like riding in Dr. Jekyll with Mr. Hyde only a right-foot tap away. A sport exhaust, switchable from moderately quiet to a throaty, guttural rumble, completes the transformation.

does cut weight compared to steel.

A wing extends at 112km/h and adds 41 kilograms of downforce at speed, helping the rear end gain maximum traction. Unique front and rear fascia distinguish the GT from other Cayennes. Cayenne GT starts at $200,700 while the tester rang in Corralling all those horses comes down to ceramic at $230,495 with a range of options including a rotor blades as big as some wheels. Porsche quotes Burmester sound system, contrasting leather the diameter of the front discs as 440 millimetres, seat inserts and a modest — by comparison to which is more than 17 inches, Just for the rotor. the upcharge on some models — $1,030 for the The rear discs are no slouches either, at 410mm or ceramic composite brake rotors, including $1,500 more than 16 inches, in diameter. destination fee.

The body is an amalgam of galvanized steel and The darling of the group was, in my view, the aluminum, while the roof is a contoured carbon- Cayman T. Lightweight, nimble and fast, the fibre panel. It precludes availability of a sunroof but Cayman T sports a 2.0-litre turbocharged four105

cylinder boxer motor mounted mid-ship delivering 300 horsepower and 280 lb-ft of torque. Amazing was the delightful exhaust note Porsche was able to wring out of a four-pot motor. It grumbles and rumbles with the best of the company’s larger motors.

Interestingly, the Canadian price is considerably less than the converted U.S. price of $54,900, which would translate at the time of writing to more than $69,000. Instead, the Canadian base price is $58,500. Yet, despite giving up $10,500 in currency exchange, the Macan in Canada has Being lighter, and with a mid-engine configuration more content, not less, than the U.S. models. Extra that improves the car’s balance, I would be tempted Canadian standard features include heated seats to pick it over a 911. The short-throw shifter — an and heated steering wheel. upgrade from standard Cayman models — makes it The base model Macan employs a 2.0-litre turbo easy to snick through the gears, even in the throes four-cylinder motor delivering 261 horsepower and 295 lb-ft of torque. It transfers that power of Atlanta traffic. through a seven-speed Porsche Doppelkupplung The subject car was a brilliant yellow, and an accent dual-clutch transmission to the Porsche Traction stripe on both doors bears the Cayman T insignia.

Management all-wheel drive system.

As a mid-engine, it sports two storage areas: one under the rear window and a trunk under the hood. Standard equipment includes a power tailgate, heated side mirrors and 19-inch Macan wheels Unlike some cars, the side vents are functional, painted silver. The tester included nearly $34,000 with one side feeding the engine’s radiator and the in options, including $4,430 for leather interior, other feeding the turbocharger’s intercooler. a premium package ($2,650) comprising LED The T employs sport seats with elevated bolsters, headlights, dynamic lighting, lane-change assist, though they’re not as restrictive, or as challenging rear heated seats and a BOSE surround sound to enter and exit, as the buckets on the 911 GTS. audio system.

The Cayman T starts at $77,900 while the tester If the base Macan isn’t enough, Porsche also offers is priced at $86,970, including $1,500 destination the Macan S, with a 3.0-litre six-cylinder motor fee. It included such options as those sport seats, offering 375 horsepower and 383 lb-ft of torque. larger 64-litre fuel tank and navigation.

It shaves about two seconds off the 0-100km/h The Macan crossover is Porsche’s best-selling times (to 4.8 seconds) and runs the price up to product ever, with more than 600,000 sold world- $70,600. The tester, with $43,000 in options, wide so far. It’s easy to see why. Nearly as nimble rang in at $113,820, including $1,500 destination as the Cayman T, as luxurious as a Cayenne and fee. arguably the perfect urban crossover, the Macan Two flavours of the 911 were offered, each with vast starts as Porsche’s most-affordable model. differences in feel from the other. The 911 Targa 106

4 GTS and 911 Carrera GTS both have the same engines, twin-turbo six-cylinder boxers delivering 473 horsepower and 420 lb-ft of torque, but with 175 extra kilograms of weight and an eight-speed PDK dual-clutch transmission, plus front seats that veered toward comfort more than race car buckets, the Targa felt considerably different than the Carrera GTS. Still very sporty, the Targa felt more like a grand touring car than a hard-charging sports car.

for 911 — and let’s face it, even in 911s with rear seats, they’re typically just well-upholstered parcel shelves anyway — so the car comes with rearseat delete. That, the transmission, the lack of a roof stowage system and other weight-saving measures, contribute to it being those 175 kilos lighter. Targa starts at $173,700, with the tester at $215,700. The Carrera GTS starts at $150,700 and the tester was priced at $198,280. Both as-tested prices include $1,500 destination fee.

The Carrera GTS, with bucket seats and prominent side bolsters that grip very tightly — and made it harder to get in and out — a seven-speed manual transmission and with less weight, gripped the road slightly better and felt a bit more nimble.

Those bolsters may make it challenging as a daily driver, however.

The 911’s timeless design proves that if a carmaker gets the basic design right, it doesn’t have to radically redesign the car every four years. The car has gone through tweaks over the years and certainly looks more refined now than in its early days, but the basic shape is unmistakable.

Perhaps the greatest tribute to Porsche’s design is Those one-piece bucket seats would have made that even decades later, its models remain prized the rear seats even harder to access than is normal possessions of a Georgian winemaker.

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TIME ZONE

OMEGA SEAMASTER 300 BLACK BLACK Story Matthew Neundorf

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his isn’t the Omega timepiece I wanted to review for you. Given the timing of this issue and my affinity for James Bond, I’d asked for an opportunity to indulge in a little kiss kiss bang bang action with the 007 Edition of the Omega Seamaster 300 Diver. However the Bond watch wasn’t available. It’s selling quicker than Adele’s “25”, so I ended up with one better suited to agents of Spectre: the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Black Black. And yes, that redundancy is actually a part of its name.

Photography Matthew Neundorf and Carolyn Merey

THE LOOK The case, bezel, dial, strap buckle, crown, and helium escape valve are all crafted from ceramic.

This means the watch is both incredibly light and extremely durable. Technically the pottery involved here is ZrO2 (zirconium oxide), a material that’s literally as tough as nails (it registers up to 6.5 on the Mohs hardness scale).

And yes, you read that correctly, those two ridged little buttons at 10 and 3 are ceramic, not just PVD-coated metal. To ensure this uniformity of As a diver myself, I couldn’t see the point in wear- materials Omega had to invest in perfecting an ing a black-on-black-on-black timepiece while injection molding technique as ceramics that are donning fins and a mask. And it would feel pretty that small (and hard) don’t lend themselves easily disingenuous to recommend a dive watch with to milling. And they nailed it. Both screw-down debatable legibility, especially below the water. The crowns are flawlessly executed and easy to use Seamaster 300 is an icon, afterall. A reference (although I had no reason to burp any Helium). of precision, reliability and performance amongst divers. The overt impression of form over function Closet chemists will note that ZrO2 is typically a white crystalline oxide of element number 40 on going on here is heresy. your periodic table (zirconium). Omega adds iron Minutes after unboxing, I was ready to package pigment to the batch before baking at temps that it up and send it back. But then I strapped it on, could melt steel. This imbues the ZrO2 used here turned my wrist to take a peek, and the “black- with its inherent darkness. From there the larger ness” of the Black Black came to life in the light. parts are machined, laser-ablated, and polished.

The contrasting finishes of both mirrored and brushed, so common to stainless steel, are executed here to perfection. Just take a look at how the process accentuates those lugs alone.

Meanwhile, the frosted bezel has a distinctly granular quality to it.

And then of course, there is the iconic “wave” patterned dial that has graced the Seamaster 300M since 1993. To make that happen --as well as the logo and every other detail you see-- the ceramic was laser-ablated to render the threedimensional crests, which were then polished.

This positive relief treatment and mix of textures the extra engineering and styling present in this creates a dial that absorbs and reflects light in specific model. And, as an added little bonus, the astounding ways. mobile strap retaining loop has a pip on its inside to lock it in place.

A similar treatment was executed for the indices which have also been coated in anthracite The unidirectional bezel clicks through its posiSuper-LumiNova, as have the skeleton hands. tions with positive feedback and unsurprisingly, I Surprisingly, this makes the Black Black incredibly couldn’t detect any play or slop with the mechalegible in both light and darkness -- certainly much nism. Both the crown and the Helium release valve more so than I initially assumed -- as everything are easy to manipulate, and regardless of how has a muted grey to it under normal conditions and often you play with those things, no fingerprints glows a ghostly blue at night. will be left visible.

THE HEART AND SOUL Whirring away at 25,200 vibrations per hour, beneath the sapphire crystal caseback, the Black Black is powered by Omega’s Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8806 automatic movement. Certified to the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS) standard, the Black Black is accurate to within 0/+5 seconds per day while also offering extensive shock and magnetic resistance.

For those unfamiliar, the METAS standard tests watches as a whole while the traditional Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) only tests uncased watch movements. As such, the Black Black has been subjected to eight differTHE FEEL The all-black treatment creates an understated ent tests related to quality, durability and accuracy timepiece piece to be sure. Much of its 43.5mm over ten days. And this testing only begins after diameter and 14.47mm height disappears in its the calibre 8806 has already achieved COSC own absence of colour -- black is slimming, after- certification. all -- and it also wears with similar stealth.

What this all means to the wearer is that the Black Thanks to the curled lugs and relative lightness of Black has been built to near bomb-proof specifithe ceramic materials, the Black Black wears quite cations. It is a timepiece that will continue to be comfortably on my 7.25-inch wrist. I appreciated incredibly reliable in all manner of activities while that it ships on a rubber strap as it bolsters the also boasting 55-hour power reserve and a fivetool-watch ethos of the Seamaster line, despite year warranty.

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CONCLUDING THOUGHTS At first blush, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Black Black feels like a gimmick for the rich: the type of fashion forward timepiece more readily associated with brands like Hublot. And I’ll fully admit I was quick to write it off. But spend some time with it and you begin to appreciate the engineering and effort going on.

While I probably wouldn’t make the Black Black my choice for a one-and-only type acquisition or my first pick for an open water excursion, it has the undeniable charms of a fashion piece and the excellence in engineering of a tool watch.

I can’t stress enough how legible the mix of treatments to the ceramic make this timepiece. And, more importantly, for any prospective owners (or Spectre agents) out there, is how those finishes create a visual impact that continually evolves, depending on lighting. During the weeks I had it on my wrist, I swear this watch appeared blue, black, and at least sixty shades of grey.

For any skeptics out there, I challenge them to do what I did. Wear this timepiece before rendering final judgment. It’s far more attractive than I expected and its functionality rarely, if ever, takes a back seat to form.

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GEAR UP!

THE HOLIDAY GIFT LIST Story

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herever your plans take you while behind the wheel over the holidays, consider bringing along a few of the items below to ensure safe travels and an enjoyable time at your destination. From a DIY LED fog light conversion kit to an unexpected sneaker collab, here is VICARIOUS Mag’s top favourite gear of the season.

Benjamin Yong

air with the debut of the Indian Motorcycle eFTR Mini. Following the success of the eFTR Jr, the former has a much lower 18.4-inch seat height, and is lighter, than the latter making it easier to teach young people eights years and older how to ride.

The Mini is styled after the full-size FTR750 race 1. SAILUN BLACKHAWK ICE PREY bike and takes advantage of an electric powertrain HW06 SNOW TIRES boasting a top speed of 22km/h (14mph). A China-based Sailun Tires recently unveiled the 24-volt rechargeable battery good yields 30 Blackhawk Ice Prey HW06, a premium studdable minutes of continuous use. Priced at $639.99 winter tire intended for light trucks and SUVs. The CDN. aggressive directional tread pattern possesses proprietary X-Groove channels to evacuate slush 3. PHILIPS ULTINON ESSENTIAL and snow resulting in superior traction on both ice LED FOG LIGHTS Lighting technology has been advancing by leaps and the white stuff. and bounds lately, and products like the Philips The specially formulated rubber compound Ultinon Essential LED Fog Lights is proof. These remains pliable and effective in the coldest plug-and-play bulbs instantly transform dull halotemperatures, helping to tackle the most severe gens into ultra-bright energy-saving LEDs deliverroad conditions our North American winters can ing a colour temperature of 6500K, which is close dish out. Look for the HW06 at your nearest OK to that of daylight, and cutting through inclement Tire, that exclusively sells and services the brand weather. in Canada.

A nifty compact fan and metal heat sink are 2. INDIAN MOTORCYCLE EFTR MINI installed inside the base to draw airflow and Give the kids a compelling excuse to step away prevent overheating, as well as prolonging life. Fits from the electronics and breathe in some fresh most vehicle applications with fog lights taking 1.

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bulb sizes including H7, H8, H11, H16, 9006, 9145 and PS24W. 4. VOLVO X CASCA KÖR KNIT In celebration of World Car Free Day last fall, Volvo and Casca Designs footwear company located in Vancouver teamed up to create a limited-edition sneaker perfect for driving. With the XC40 Recharge SUV serving as inspiration, and sustainability at the core of each brand, 10 per cent of the gum sole is constructed out of old car tires while the flexible knit upper contains material from seven recycled plastic bottles.

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The signature Volvo Thor’s Hammer is reinterpreted on the Kör Knit via the T-shaped vegan suede detailing on the toe box, and Volvo lettering is present on the heel tab. The shoe is comfortable thanks to a cushy insole, and customers may upgrade to a custom-fit 3-D printed version during ordering through the Casca app made to scan a consumer’s foot.

5. AMAZON FIRE TV STICK 4K MAX Staying at a hotel or house rental doesn’t equal having to forgo contemporary creature comforts, like streaming your favourite shows on a TV. Amazon has just released the latest Fire Stick, packing a quad-core 1.8 GHz processor that is a whopping 40 per cent more powerful than the previous model, meaning programs launch quicker and general navigation is smoother.

Simply connect the player to an empty HDMI port on a compatible device to experience 4K Ultra HD video and rich Dolby Atmos sound. Those too lazy to physically press buttons are free to ask the Alexa-enabled remote for assistance in surfing content. And the Max is future-proofed, utilizing next-generation Wi-Fi 6 communication to reduce lag if paired to a supporting router.

6. GOAL ZERO LIGHTHOUSE 600 Camping and hanging out in the backyard at night are only two of many excellent reasons to keep the Goal Zero Lighthouse 600 nearby. This high-tech lantern shines 600 lumens of adjustable light in all directions and is powered by a large 5,200 mAh internal lithium battery, which can provide juice to small mobile devices as well. To recharge, plug in a USB cable or hand crank the built-in handle in an emergency.

Alternatively, the Lighthouse may be topped up with the Nomad 5 Solar Kit. Prop the five-watt 112

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Nomad anywhere the sun is shining and connect the lantern directly to the Nomad. In addition, the bundle includes a bonus handy Flip 12 compact power bank easily stowed in a pocket.

7. MYGEKOGEAR SAFETY KIT Auto accessory specialist myGEKOgear has assembled the ultimate gift set for the safety conscious driver. Pre-wrapped and ready to give to a lucky recipient, he or she will receive a number of must-have items, such as the Orbit 110 full HD dash cam featuring 1080p resolution, 120-degree viewing angle capture, CMOS low-light sensor, g-sensor to lock onto footage files following a collision, 1.5-inch LCD screen, and complimentary 8 GB microSD memory card.

There’s also a unique MagiClaw smartphone handsfree mount, designed to grab onto virtually any hard surface, tire gauge tool, pepper spray and a mesh pouch to hold insurance and registration papers and other important documents.

8. VIEWSONIC TD1655 In today’s connected world, work often happens outside of traditional business hours. The new ViewSonic TD1655 portable touchscreen monitor makes sure productivity won’t drop just because you’re on the road. Giving a generous screen size of 15.6 inches yet only measuring 6 millimetres thick and weighing in under 1 kilogram, it will slip inside any bag or backpack no problem.

On the side are a mini HDMI and two USB-C ports, guaranteeing compatibility with most laptops, phones and tablets, and being two-way the latter is capable of either supplying power to a laptop (when the 60-watt adapter is plugged in) or vice versa. The TD1655 produces vibrant images and even has onboard speakers in case users want to hook up a gaming console for some travelling entertainment.

The menu system can be controlled by a finger, the included stylus or a neat joystick embedded on the back corner. Prop up the display in landscape mode using the flip-out aluminum rear panel, or repurpose the slick magnetic protective cover as a folding stand to go portrait. And the glass features a 6H hardness rating to protect against accidental scratches.

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EXIT LANE This is Radford...... recreated.

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adford, for those who don’t know, draws upon the heritage and craftsmanship of legendary British coachbuilder Harold Radford, who once created truly outstanding cars for a celebrity clientele that included, for example, all four of The Beatles.

RADFORD TYPE 62-2

one of these Radford Lotus cars are one offs, totally bespoke, customisable dreams....and we are making just 62 of them. The modern Radford will deliver the ultimate in global luxury and personalisation, blending British character with state-ofIn 1948, Harold Radford created a great British the-art technology and traditional craftsmanship. coach-building company initially working with the likes of Rolls Royce, Bentley and Aston Martin. It We are right in the heart of this renaissance was a golden age of individually designed, unique, of coachbuilding, creating rare, bespoke, rolling and now priceless, coach-built cars, whilst Henry pieces of artwork. We are seeing a resurgence in Ford made cars for the masses, coach-builders coachbuilding and the use of shared platforms, such as Zagato, Pininfarina, Gurney Nutting, Figoni manufacturers the world over are using the same & Falaschi and others including Radford provided platforms with different body styling on top. It’s clear that classic or heritage is back and boomart in perfect synergy with exquisite engineering. ing. Aston Martin is well underway with recreating Just like Harold did it 60 years ago, our legacy now the legendary DB5s and DB4 Zagatos. Jaguar is allows us to co-brand with some of the biggest making XKSSs, D-Type’s and C-Types, Bentley is players in the automotive world. We are entrusted bringing back the Blower and there’s a Countach as the custodians of legacy brands as we look to in there somewhere too! fearlessly redefine heritage and rewrite the narrative of coachbuilding for a new generation of car The appetite is there and the timing for a revival of proper coachbuilding is right now. People want lovers. something unique, something different and someIn the summer of 2021, we revealed to the world thing tailor-made. the first Radford of the modern era, built in partnership with Lotus. It is a mid-engine two-seater We are proud to be reviving Radford and humbled Type 62-2 coupé and it takes inspiration from the to be custodians of this legendary company. We revered 1969 Lotus Type 62, of which only two will strive to design build and drive on-trend vehicars were made. We are using the very latest in cles based on classic timeless designs for the manufacturing, tooling and technology to deliver a roads of tomorrow. And we cannot wait to share thrilling and pure driving experience. Every single our journey.

Today Radford is reborn as a global luxury brand with a British heart and soul and we are here offering customers highly-bespoke, coach-built and very personalised automobiles.

Ant Anstead Contributor | VICARIOUS

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Harold Island, Lake Muskoka

ROLL A OATMA S S5370 02 N S S5 35 0 03

Serengeti® designs and develops eyewear to set you free.

The design, quality and comfort of our frames and superior definition of our lenses will keep you in complete control behind the wheel or throttle, in sun, snow or sky.