JCK 2019 November/December Issue

T O TA L C L A R I T Y THE REALITY OF MODERN DIAMOND MINING

T O S H E D L I G H T O N T H E R E A L I T Y O F M O D E R N D I A M O N D M I N I N G , T R U C O S T, P A R T O F S & P G L O B A L , W A S C O M M I S S I O N E D B Y T H E D I A M O N D P R O D U C E R S A S S O C I AT I O N ( D P A ) T O C O N D U C T I N D E P E N D E N T R E S E A R C H O N D PA M E M B E R S , W H O TO G E T H E R , C O M P R I S E 7 5% O F W O R L D D I A M O N D P R O D U C T I O N .

T O L E A R N M O R E , G O T O T O TA L- C L A R I T Y. C O M

D PA M E M B E R S C R E AT E

T O TA L C L A R I T Y:

Get the Facts on Modern Diamond Mining

US$16 billion annually

I N N E T S O C I O EC O N O M I C A N D EN V I R O N M EN TA L B EN EFI T S

Our People SA L A RI ES A N D WAG ES PA I D B Y D PA M E M B E R S C R E AT E S

US$3.9

billion

Our Communities R O U G H LY

80% OF THE US$16 BILLION ANNUAL NET BENEFIT IS INFUSED IN THE COMMUNITIES SURROUNDING THE MINES

I N B E N E F I T S A N N U A L LY

Our Environment EVERY YEAR, D PA M EM B ERS PROTECT

3x the amount of land THEY USE FOR MINING, ABOUT 1,000 SQUARE MILES

EMPLOYEES AND CONTR ACTORS

A N N U A L B E N E F I T S A S S O C I AT E D

CARBON EMISSIONS ARE

A R E P A I D O N A V E R A G E N E A R LY

WITH SOCIAL PROGRAMS,

3x greater

5x the living wage IN THEIR COUNTRIES, R E F L E C T I N G A H I G H LY T R A I N E D , SKILLED WORKFORCE

I N C L U D I N G H E A LT H C A R E , E D U C AT I O N , A N D R E C R E AT I O N A C T I V I T I E S , T O TA L

US$292

million

FOR L AB-GROWN DIAMONDS (LGDS) T H A N F O R N AT U R A L D I A M O N D S , R E F L E C T I N G T H E E N E R G Y- I N T E N S I V E P R O C E S S O F L G D S , W H I C H R E P L I C AT E W I T H I N 2 W E E K S A N AT U R A L P R O C E S S T H AT C A N TA K E U P T O

a million years

JCK EVENTS | Special Advertising Section

JCK Show & Tell

recharge and restock at the Jewelry Industry’s Winter Oasis

J C K T U C S O N C O M E S AT A N E S S E N T I A L T I M E O F Y E A R F O R B U Y E R S T O S T O C K U P A F T E R T H E H O L I D AY S . T H E B A C K D R O P O F T H E T U C S O N D E S E R T, C O M B I N E D W I T H A N E C L E C T I C M I X O F V E N D O R S A N D I N S P I R I N G , R E L A X I N G E V E N T S M A K E I T T H E P E R F E C T B U Y I N G T R I P F O R A L L W H O AT T E N D . J O I N U S AT T H E J E W E L R Y I N D U S T R Y ’ S W I N T E R O A S I S O N F E B R U A R Y 5 – 8 , 2 0 2 0 AT T H E J W M A R R I O T T T U C S O N S TA R R PA S S R E S O R T & S PA T O R E C H A R G E A N D R E S T O C K .

restock

F R O M O N E - O F -A- K I N D C O L L E C T I O N S , LO O S E G E M S TO N E S , M O U N T I N G S A N D T E C H N O LO G Y T O F I N E F I N I S H E D J E W E L R Y, J C K T U C S O N H A S I T A L L . B E L O W I S A S N E A K P E E K O F S O M E O F T H E N E W A N D R E T U R N I N G D E S I G N E R S T H AT A R E # J C K T U C S O N B O U N D !

Your Sneak Preview of JCK Tucson 2020 Exhibiting Designers:

ALEX SEPKUS

ALEXIS BARBEAU

BROOKE GREGSON

DANA BRONFMAN

DEBRA IOSCHPE

DORIAN & ROSE

GOGREEN DIAMONDS

K. MITA

KIN AND PEBBLE

MARK PATTERSON

PETRA CLASS

STEVEN ANTON REHAGE

...and many more!

desert stones at JCK Tucson 2020 YO U ’ L L D I S C O V E R M A N Y E X C E L L E N T T H I N G S W H E N YO U V I S I T T U C S O N DURING GEM WEEKS, WITH GEMSTONES T O P P I N G T H E L I S T. F R O M N E W -T O -YO U VA R I E T I E S T O I N T E R E S T I N G V E R S I O N S O F S T O N E S YO U A L R E A DY K N O W A N D L O V E , YO U W O N ’ T C O M E H O M E W I T H O U T H AV I N G S E E N — O R S O U R C E D — SOME INCREDIBLE FINDS.

ALEX SEPKUS T H I S Y E A R , E X H I B I T O R S AT J C K T U C S O N ARE BRINGING THE GOODS IN A BIG WAY. T H E P R O M I S E O F N O TA B L E GEMSTONES IS NO SURPRISE, BUT T H E R E A R E T R E N D S TO LO O K F O R AMONG THE TREASURES.

AS DEMAND FOR A R T I S A N - M A D E C R E AT I O N S C O N T I N U E S TO I N C R E A S E , A R O S T E R O F TA L E N T E D JEWELRY DESIGNERS PROMISES TO ALISHAN OFFER STUNNING, HANDCRAFTED P I E C E S AT T H E S H O W. L O O K F O R E A R T H Y S T O N E S , F R O M R AW A N D N AT U R A L C U T S T O O PA Q U E S T O N E S T Y L E S L I K E A Z U R I T E , M A L A C H I T E , J A D E , L A P I S L A Z U L I A N D M O R E — S T O N E S T H AT R E A L LY L E N D A “ M A D E B Y N AT U R E ” A P P E A R A N C E ( B E C AU S E , W E L L , THEY ARE).

I F YO U ’ R E L O O K I N G F O R P O P P I N G C O L O R S I N F A C E T E D C U T S , PAY AT T E N T I O N T O C O N F L I C TF R E E , E T H I C A L LY S O U R C E D G E M S A N D MINERALS. PLENTY OF BRANDS WILL BE S H O W C A S I N G T H E I R R E S P O N S I B LY M A D E P R O D U C T S F O R T O D AY ’ S CONSCIENTIOUS SHOPPERS.

YO U ’ L L F I N D S O M E T H I N G F O R E V E R Y C U S T O M E R O N YO U R L I S T, F R O M T H E S H O P P E R S S E A R C H I N G MARCEL ROELOFS F O R SA P P H I R E S TO T H E LOV E R S O F L A B R A D O R I T E . T H E R E W I L L B E D I A M O N D S — B O T H N AT U R A L A N D G R O W N —A N D C R O W D F A V O R I T E S S U C H A S O PA L A N D TOURMALINE.

S O U R C E T H E M L O O S E I F YO U ’ D L I K E T O F O R T I F Y YO U R I N - S T O R E S U P P LY ( O R D E S I G N A P I E C E A L L YO U R O W N T O H O U S E T H E M ) , B U T D O N ’ T M I S S T H E I N C O M PA R A B L E D E S I G N P E R S P E C T I V E S O F T H E B R I L L I A N T C R E AT O R S E X H I B I T I N G AT J C K T U C S O N . C U S T O M E R S W I L L U N D O U B T E D LY F I N D T H E I R O F F E R I N G S A T E M P T I N G T R E AT.

I T ’ S A L L C O M I N G U P F A S T E R T H A N YO U C A N S AY, “ I S I T T H E H O L I D AY S E A S O N Y E T ? ” —AT JCK TUCSON 2020.

ALEXIS BARBEAU

TO R E G I S T E R F O R YO U R B A D G E O R TO L E A R N M O R E , V I S I T:

J C K T U C S O N 2 0 2 0 . C O M / J C KO N L I N E Contact Nina Mancini

Interested in Exhibiting? jckinsider.com

p: 203.840.5469 e: nmancini@reedexpo.com

@ j c k e v e n t s # J C K Tu c s o n

CONTENTS

6

JCKONLINE.COM

COVER

GOLDEN DELICIOUS

56

Cozy up to the fire with a smorgasbord of this season’s most scrumptious yellow metal designs.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOEL STANS

FEATURES 62

JEWELRY’S NEW JOBS Ensure your hiring strategy is ­optimized for 21st-century selling.

BY EMILI VESILIND

64

5 HOT TOPICS FOR 2020 D-to-C, AR, #neckmess, and more

BY THE JCK EDITORS

66

SALES FORCES Three top jewelry sellers share their counter culture secrets.

BY MARTHA C. WHITE

68

150 YEARS, 150 VOICES The conclusion of JCK ’s six-part ­anniversary series

BY WHITNEY SIELAFF

72

WISH LIST GRANTED

66

64

BY RANDI MOLOFSKY

78

19 LAST-MINUTE HOLIDAY HACKS Tips from industry experts to jingle all the way to the bank

BY AMY ELLIOTT

SPECIAL REPORT: LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS 83

Retailer reflections, an FTC Guide refresher, and the hottest new lab-created diamond designs

STILL LIFE: PHOTO BY JOEL STANS; MODEL: ALAIN GIL-GONZALEZ/ABACA/SIPA USA/AP

78

Stocking stuffer–ready jewels to light up anyone’s holiday

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

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#EffyMoments

EffyJewelr y.com FINE

JE WELRY

E S T.

1979

CONTENTS

12

8

JCKONLINE.COM

DEPARTMENTS JEWEL BOX

5 things rocking the industry

14 16 18

FROM THE EDITOR STAFF PICKS FROM THE PUBLISHER 22 JCK INSIDER 24 SOCIAL DIARY 27 NEWS GEMS

16

MODEL: JONAS GUSTAVSSON/SIPA USA (SIPA VIA AP); NECKLACE: MARCEL CHRIST/GALLERY STOCK

12

Jewelry is trapped in the trade war crossfire.

GEM PRICING REPORT

31 32 THE CALENDAR

Industry shows, Nov. 18, 2019–Jan. 12, 2020

35 SHOP TALK INNOVATIVE RETAILER

Shetler Fine Jewelers in San Antonio 38 RETAIL THERAPY

How do you prep for the busy holiday season?

40 STORE WE ADORE

Shibumi Gallery in Berkeley, Calif.

27

43 THE LOOK 44 DESIGNER SHOWCASE

Prounis Jewelry 50 RED CARPET 52 JCK ASKS...

Emily P. Wheeler

135 136 137 139

THE VAULT GOLD COLORED STONES

SHOW BIZ The highs and hues from September’s VicenzaOro show

141 TOOL TIME

Is it time to get your store on TikTok? Plus: the Fitbit Versa Lite and more.

148 THE WAY WE WERE

Cover stories from 150 years of JCK

44

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

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Like fashion, your gold customer is changing.

We get that.

Royal Chain creates gold jewelry for every customer who walks through your door.

Discover it on: ROYALCHAIN.COM 800 622 0960

G2G

GOT TO GOLD!

Nothing moves like gold.

Cover ook

18k yellow gold earrings with 2.2 cts. t.w. diamonds; $15,985; Ralph Masri; amber@ luxcartel.com; ralphmasri.com

Cypress Collection 888.674.8340 info@graymoorlanedesigns.com www.graymoorlanedesigns.com Graymoor Lane Designs is a division of Artistry, Ltd.

Go DeN rU e Warm up your cases with these luscious yellow metal looks

Moderno earrings in 18k yellow gold; $1,560; L. Klein; 860-559-9792; lkleinjewelry.com

Golden Dragon Tails earrings in 18k yellow gold with 3.42 cts. t.w. diamonds; $12,000; Umrao; 212-575-4727

Sol large Mandala pendant in 18k yellow gold with 0.2 ct. t.w. diamonds; $4,200; Belle Brooke Designs; 505-7805270; bellebrooke.net

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOEL STANS Prop Styling: Emily & Tony Mullin Centurion Arizona • The Select Shows • AGTA • JCK Tucson • SJTA Luxury by JCK • JCK Las Vegas • Prime • Centurion South Beach JCKONLINE.COM

Call for a catalog 888.674.3250 www.artistrylimited.com

WRAP UP THIS WINTER I N M I DA S L AY E R S

2 01 -2 4 4 -1 1 5 0

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midaschain.com

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NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

the industry authority

5 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY

Jewel box Earrings with 12.11 mm South Sea pearls, 58.86 cts. t.w. white jade, and 1.01 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $29,000; Assael; 212-819-0060; assael.com

1

Another royal wedding! On Sept. 26, Buckingham Palace announced that Princess Beatrice will tie the knot with multimillionaire real estate magnate Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi in 2020. And that means there’s another royal engagement ring for ­jewelry watchers to drool over: a platinum and diamond design featuring a huge brilliant-cut diamond center flanked by four baguette-cut diamonds. Mozzi worked with British jeweler Shaun Leane on the ring, which the designer described on Instagram as “a fusion of Victorian and Art Deco designs” that folds in “both Edoardo and Princess Beatrice’s characters.”

2

OPENINGS

Estimates place the ring’s center stone at 3–4 cts.

The lower level of a department store traditionally houses its least glamorous offerings. (At Bloomingdale’s on 59th Street in Manhattan, it’s how you get to the subway.) But at Saks Fifth Avenue’s New York City flagship, that’s where you’ll find Saks’ most precious gems: Appropriately named The Vault, the 12,000-square-foot space houses some two dozen jewelry and watch brands. On our visit, we spotted captivating pearl and colored stone styles from Assael; a stunning selection of Robert Procop pieces, including an almost palm-size aquamarine pendant; gorgeous red-carpet–ready designs from Martin Katz and Lorraine Schwartz; and enough Bulgari snakes to take over a plane. Plus, timepieces from the likes of IWC, TAG Heuer, and Vacheron Constantin ensure that male shoppers will be suitably entertained.

LEFT: PRINCESS EUGENIE/SIPA VIA AP; INSET: ROTA/CAMERA PRESS/REDUX

ROYALS

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The accessories gilding the models at fashion designer Roland Mouret’s spring 2020 runway show in London this past September—including screw-lock carabiners, chunky metal and pearl chains, and massive discs of swirly Fordite—were unmistakably Marla Aaron. The NYC-based jewelry designer, known for her precious metal “locks,” received a direct message from Mouret on Instagram earlier this year, in which he professed his fandom and asked if they might collaborate on the show. “Here’s this super extraordinary designer—yet he didn’t want to change us. He wanted me to do my thing,” recalls Aaron, who seized on the high-profile runway opportunity to make an (unannounced) debut of her latest designs: striking alphabet letter locks based on a vintage Bauhaus-era typeface.

Budelli ring with 19.21 ct. kunzite and 1.16 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k pink, yellow, and white gold; $76,000; buccellati.com

4

ACQUISITIONS 3

FASHION

For a while, Buccellati, the prestigious Italian jeweler that turned 100 this year, seemed in search of a home. In 2013, Italian equity fund Clessidra purchased a majority stake in the ­Milan-based brand from its founding family. The company was sold to China’s Gangtai Group three years later. Now it’s been sold again—but this sale is probably permanent. In August, Richemont, the luxury behemoth that owns Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and a bevy of watch brands, scooped it up for an undisclosed sum.

Andrea Buccellati, the grandson of founder Mario, will remain honorary chairman and creative director.

JONAS GUSTAVSSON/SIPA USA (SIPA VIA AP)

5

MAJORS A model dripping in Marla Aaron jewels at the Roland Mouret runway show during London Fashion Week

JCKONLINE.COM

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A recent survey found that 91% of millennials would consider eloping.

But would they get married at the mall? Helzberg Diamonds hopes so.

In partnership with the Universal Life Church, Helzberg has ordained hundreds of its associates. Which means that couples can now tie the knot in any of its 200-plus stores. And not only is the ceremony free, but H ­ elzberg will toss in a bottle of bubbly and two flutes. A ring isn’t ­required, but of course if the couple want one, they don’t have far to go.

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

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from the editor

Bubbles necklace in 18k yellow gold with 4.5 cts. t.w. aquamarines; $1,955; L. Klein Jewelry; 860-559-9792; lkleinjewelry.com

Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief vgomelsky@jckonline.com NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

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IT SOUNDS LIKE pure science fiction, right? Wasn’t it just last week that we were battening down the hatches for Y2K? I may sound like an old fogy in disbelief over how quickly time passes, but that’s the point.

Come January, I’ll be celebrating my 20th year writing about the jewelry industry, and I can’t help but feel a bit nostalgic about it. I was a month shy of my 27th birthday in 2000 when I attended my first JCK Las Vegas show.

A few weeks after that, I was off to Australia’s croc-infested Top End for my first press trip— to a Paspaley pearl farm. Later that summer, I met JCK jewelry director Randi Molofsky at a boozy, Platinum Guild–sponsored party at designer Ella Gafter’s posh Manhattan salon.

All of these things happened before the dawn of social media, if you can believe it. As L.P. Hartley famously observed, “The past is a foreign country—they do things differently there.” These days, “social media manager” is a critical role at any successful retail ­jewelry business, as senior editor Emili Vesilind makes clear in “Jewelry’s New Jobs” on page 62, in which she reveals what the industry’s ­newfangled job titles say about hiring priorities for retail jewelers in 2020 and beyond.

Conversely, one thing that hasn’t changed since I joined the industry is the alchemic mix of charisma, knowledge, and motivation it takes to be a true sales superstar. In “Sales

Forces” (page 66), contributor Martha C. White interviews three of the nation’s leading retail salespeople about how they cultivate great client relationships.

The effort requires time, of course, but we’ve got a shortcut: Check out contributor Amy Elliott’s “19 Last-Minute Holiday Hacks” on page 78 for a list of quick hits to make the most of the season. And don’t miss “Wish List Granted” (page 72), Randi’s visual guide to the styles sure to be in demand this quarter.

The new year is right around the corner.

Bone up on the issues that will dominate ­industry chatter with “5 Hot Topics for 2020” (page 64), a short list of conversation starters for the third decade of the ­millennium. (Hint: Think off the chain!)

Finally, on page 68, you’ll find the final installment of our “150 Years, 150 Voices” series, marking the end of JCK ’s sesquicentennial coverage. Many of you probably saw the news in August about the magazine changing its print frequency: Starting in January, JCK will be published four times a year (March, May, June, and September), as we divert greater resources to our digital side at ­JCKonline.com. While my tendency for nostalgia makes the transition bittersweet, I’m 100% sure that 20 years from now, as we ponder our 2040 forecast, JCK will be right there with you (as, I hope, will I!).

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; HAIR AND MAKEUP: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES

he year 2020.

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NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

the industry authority

OUR FAVORITE THINGS

STAFF PICKS 1

2

14k yellow gold Farrah locket with 0.06 ct. turquoise on 18-inch chain; My Story by Jackie Cohen; $2,075; concierge@ mystoryfinejewelry. com; mystoryfine jewelry.com

14k yellow gold earrings with diamonds and Sleeping Beauty turquoise; $4,200; Laura Medine; info@ markhenryj.com; lauramedine.com

18k yellow gold Plissé earrings with pearls and 1.42 cts. t.w. diamonds; $6,900; Hueb; customer@hueb.com; hueb.com

3

GLAM ROCKS

4

What JCK magazine’s Emili Vesilind is loving this month

Black Lucite and 10k yellow gold– plated bracelet; $175; Alexis Bittar; service@alexisbittar.com; alexisbittar.com

“Designs inspired by iconic vintage jewels were everywhere at the JIS and Centurion shows in Miami in October—I was loving all the classic-feeling glamour.” —Emili Vesilind, JCK senior editor

5

18k yellow gold Verde ring with malachite and black onyx; $7,500; Doves by Doron Paloma; info@ dovesjewelry.com; dovesjewelry.com

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www.facetbarcelona.com

H

FROM THE PUBLISHER

appy Holidays!

Mark Smelzer Publisher msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

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GREETINGS FROM MY flight home from Los Angeles after my yearly October tour of Southern California!

As in years past, I came west to attend the annual GIA Jewelry Career Fair in Carlsbad.

After a couple of years’ hiatus, I was asked again to moderate the “Creative Careers” panel.

The event—which featured Baba ­Blumkin, CEO of Luxe Jewelry and Loan; Wade Clar Jr., director of brand ­development at Julez Bryant; goldsmith and designer Alexandra Hart; Jenny Luker, president of Platinum Guild International USA; and Tiffany Stevens, CEO and general counsel at the Jewelers ­Vigilance Committee—was phenomenal.

As always, panelists were selected based on their nontraditional paths in the jewelry industry. After they described their jobs, I asked them about attending events, networking, volunteering for boards and committees, and mentoring. As you can imagine, all these activities have played a huge role in each panelist’s career. And listening to them reminded me of just how much I gain in terms of friendships, support, and even business success by pursuing these kinds of activities. If you are one of the rare people in our business who doesn’t join in and give back, start doing so today!

The next evening was reserved for the Jewelers 24 Karat Club of Southern ­California

Sunny Beverly Hills, Calif., where the 24 Karat Club gathered for its gala

black-tie gala, a long-standing annual event honoring leaders in our business (and providing a great opportunity to network with friends). This year’s event recognized three honorees beloved by the industry: Ruben Bindra, founder and president of B&B Fine Gems; Terry Chandler, president and CEO of Diamond Council of America; and Bill Jones, CEO of Sissy’s Log Cabin. Congrats to you all!

I was lucky enough to cap off the visit with a stay at the home of JCK editor-in-chief ­Victoria Gomelsky, her partner, Jim ­Sullivan, and their 1-year-old son, Niko. It was a ­gathering of family and friends, including three generations of the Gomelsky clan. The evening was another reminder of the friendships this industry has brought into my life and how lucky I am to be a part of it.

As 2019 comes to a close, we look ­forward to a new digital-first JCK in the years ahead.

We’ll still publish our four most ­popular print issues—March, May, June, and ­September—while we focus on growing our Instagram following (up from 20,000 to 37,000 in the last year alone); building our amazing podcast, “The Jewelry District”; introducing a how-to series of webinars; and delivering the most important stories in our JCK News Daily newsletter.

Happy New Year!

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; GROOMING: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES; RODEO DRIVE: HISHAM IBRAHIM/PHOTO LIBRARY/GETTY

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C E N T U R I O N

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY FOR 150 YEARS!

Editor-in-Chief VICTORIA GOMELSKY Creative Director PETER YATES

Managing Editor MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

EDITORIAL News Director / ROB BATES rbates@jckonline.com

U.S. ADVERTISING SALES CT/DE/LA/MA/NJ/NY/PA Regional Manager / RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905, fax 917-591-8501 rgewertz@reedjewelrygroup.com

Senior Editor & Social Media Director / EMILI VESILIND evesilind@jckonline.com

AK/AL/AR/AZ/CA/CO/HI/IA/ID/IL/IN/KS/KY/ MD/MI/MN/MO/MS/MT/NC/ND/NE/NM/NV/ OH/OK/OR/SD/TN/TX/UT/VA/WA/WI/WV/ WY/CANADA/MEXICO Regional Manager / ROBIN LUTIN 310-474-9610, fax 917-591-8501 rlutin@reedjewelrygroup.com

Photography Director / FREYDA TAVIN Art Director / ALFREDO CEBALLOS Jewelry Director / RANDI MOLOFSKY Jewelry Editor / RIMA SUQI

FL/GA/ME/NH/RI/SC/VT/PUERTO RICO Regional Manager / LARS PARKER-MYERS 203-840-5808, fax 203-840-9808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com

Contributing Editor / BRITTANY SIMINITZ bsiminitz@jckonline.com Copy Editor / SHARON CONGDON Editorial Contributors AMANDA BALTAZAR, KAREN DYBIS, AMY ELLIOTT, KATHY HENDERSON, BOB ICKES, ARI KARPEL, VENESSA LAU, KRISTIN LUNA, MICHELE MEYER, RACHEL S. PETERS, MONA QURESHI-HART, STUART ROBERTSON, NANCY SIDEWATER, WHITNEY SIELAFF, DANIEL P. SMITH, MATT VILLANO, MARTHA C. WHITE, KRISTIN YOUNG

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

Senior Vice President / Reed Jewelry Group (JCK magazine, JCK, Luxury, JIS & JCK Tucson) YANCY WEINRICH 203-840-5481 / yweinrich@reedexpo.com Event Vice President / Reed Jewelry Group (JCK magazine, JCK, Luxury & JCK Tucson) SARIN BACHMANN 203-840-5651 / sbachmann@reedexpo.com I N T E R N AT I O N A L A D V E R T I S I N G BRAZIL/EUROPE/MIDDLE EAST MIREK KRACZKOWSKI Ul. Skierniewicka 14 / 108, 01-230 Warsaw, Poland 48-22-401-70-01, fax 48-22-401-70-16 cell 48-600-344-881 mirek@jckonline.com INDIA KAUSHAL SHAH 1A – 1101, Lodha Bellissimo, Apollo Mills Compound, Off N.M. Joshi Marg, Mahalaxmi, Mumbai – 400011 Maharashtra, India 91-22-2305-9305; cell 91-98-2171-5431 kaushal@kaushals.com

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J C K L A S V E G A S , L U X U R Y & S W I S S WAT C H

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Portfolio Sales Director JIM FOX 203-840-5958 jfox@reedexpo.com

Event Director KATE (NELLIS) YOUNGSTROM 203-840-5675 kyoungstrom@reedexpo.com

Group Marketing Director AMANDA GOCHEE 203-840-5375 agochee@reedexpo.com Special Events and Conference Director KATE (NELLIS) YOUNGSTROM 203-840-5675 kyoungstrom@reedexpo.com Strategic Accounts Manager JESSICA GOLDKOPF AUDET Luxury 203-840-5955 jgoldkopf@reedexpo.com International Accounts Manager ALEXANDRA WURSTER Passport, Hong Kong, Germany & International Companies 203-840-5332 awurster@reedexpo.com Account Executive LARS PARKER-MYERS Clockwork, Essentials & Technology, Gallery, Bella Italia, Retail Innovation 203-840-5808 lparkermyers@reedexpo.com Account Executive ANA CROSBY Bridal, Currents, Diamond Plaza 203-840-5305 acrosby@reedexpo.com

Account Executive NINA MANCINI Bridge, Design Center, Design@Luxury 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedexpo.com Account Executive BARBARA MURRAY Global Gemstone, First Look 203-840-5820 bmurray@reedexpo.com Sales Executive DANIEL EYZAGUIRRE Antique & Estate, Plumb Club, Lab-Grown Diamonds 203-840-5887 deyzaguirre@reedexpo.com Retailer Account Manager JCK Las Vegas MONALISA DEPINA 203-840-5556 mdepina@reedexpo.com Retailer Account Manager Luxury ISABEL CAJULIS 203-840-5950 icajulis@reedexpo.com Marketing Manager JCK Las Vegas LINDSAY TYLER 203-840-5340 ltyler@reedexpo.com Marketing Manager Luxury AMANDA MARINI 203-840-5649 amarini@reedexpo.com

Group Marketing Director AMANDA GOCHEE 203-840-5375 agochee@reedexpo.com Portfolio Sales Director JIM FOX 203-840-5958 jfox@reedexpo.com Sales Manager NINA MANCINI Arizona Ballroom 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedexpo.com Account Executive DANIEL EYZAGUIRRE Tucson Ballroom 203-840-5887 deyzaguirre@reedexpo.com Retailer Account Manager ISABEL CAJULIS 203-840-5950 icajulis@reedexpo.com Marketing Manager AMANDA MARINI 203-840-5649 amarini@reedexpo.com

CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE

the industry authority

INSIDER

DID YOU KNOW?

A Sonoran hot dog is a baconwrapped frank topped with pinto beans, tomatoes, jalapeño, onion, mayo, and mustard. The James Beard–winning El Güero Canelo is said to serve up Tucson’s best.

The JCK TUCSON show runs Feb. 5–8.

TO LEARN MORE, VISIT tucson.jckonline.com

ISN’T IT RICH?

At Malka Diamonds in Portland, Ore., “we never sell, we educate,” says David Malka. The GIA-graduate gemologist, who owns the store with his wife, Ronnie, wanted Malka Diamonds to be “similar to the jewelry stores of the early 1900s, where everything was done in-house and the customer trusted their jeweler like family.”

For more on Malka, visit jckinsider.com/full-circle.

SEE WHAT’S HAPPENING ON THE SHOW FLOOR! FOLLOW @jckevents ON INSTAGRAM. JCKONLINE.COM

TOP: ALYSON HURT/FLICKR

MALKA MEET

Luscious stones in deep, saturated colors—such as this Andreoli rubellite and peridot ring (top) and Alex Sepkus imperial topaz ring (above)—are just one trend on tap for fall, says JCK contributing editor Brittany Siminitz. To see what else is in her forecast, visit jckinsider.com.

Social Diary

JEWELRY NIGHT OUT

1 GOLD COASTS

The L.A. and NY Metro chapters of the Women’s Jewelry Association marked the annual JNO on Sept. 12 with smiles and sparkle galore

6

Publicist Lauren McCawley, Lord Jewelry’s Lena Ağdere, Erica Courtney’s Sheila Siu, and Janvier’s Tanya Parikh in L.A. NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

JCK110119_024_SocialDiary.indd 24

3

Jewelers of America communications and PR pros Lauren Thompson and Amanda Gizzi at Shamballa Jewels, the site of N.Y.’s fete

Gemologist Wendi Mayerson and NY Metro presidentelect Eve Streicker

7

2

WJA’s new executive director, Jennifer Markas, with designer Mary Enright

4

WJA NY Metro JNO design contest winner Julie Lamb

5

Allyson Bainbridge Riccardi, NY Metro’s communications chair, and treasurer Delphine Leymarie

8

Douglas Kazanjian regales JNO attendees at Kazanjian Beverly Hills, his family’s jewelry salon.

B&B Fine Gems’ Dave Bindra with Jeanne Larson of Pala International

1–5: DAVID STEWART BROWN/DSB PHOTOGRAPHY LLC; 6–8: MORGAN ARIANA COFFEY/MORGANIZEPHOTO.COM

24

JCKONLINE.COM

10/29/19 6:18 PM

TRUST

MINE-TO-MARKET COLORED GEMSTONES CULTURED PEARLS GREATER PROFIT! REGISTER TODAY! February 4 – 9, 2020 Tucson Convention Center

800-972-1162 www. agta.org/register-tucson info@agta.org www.agta.org @agta_gems Gemstone – 100% Natural, Ltd. Ring – Phenomenon Jewels

the industry authority

27

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

NEWS JEWELERS CAN USE

NEWS GEMS JEWELRY CAUGHT IN TRADE CONFLICT

O

N SEPT. 1, the Trump administration slapped a 15% tariff on Chinese jewelry exports into the United States, part of its ongoing trade war with China.

Included on the list: diamonds; cultured and natural pearls; precious stones, including rubies, emeralds, and sapphires; synthetic precious stones, including diamonds; silver jewelry; gold necklaces and neck chains; religious jewelry; and more.

Some jewelry items had already been tariffed prior to Sept. 1, including certain gift boxes, jeweler’s balances, beads, and scrap.

China is a substantial manufacturer of jewelry sold in the United States, where imports totaled $2.09 billion in 2018— around 15% of total jewelry imports, according to the U.S. Census Bureau. That same year, the country also shipped $233 million in gem-quality diamonds and $1.01 billion in gemstones to the United States. It is a growing producer of lab-grown diamonds as well.

While a variety of products, including toys, clothes, and dog collars, had their tariffs removed—to avoid an effect on holiday shopping, President Trump said—jewelry items had not, at press time, been spared.

MARCEL CHRIST/GALLERY STOCK

BY ROB BATES

JCKONLINE.COM

NEWS GEMS

Q&A

Industry sources had mixed reports about the effect the tariffs have had. “We’ve actually heard very little from our members on the tariff issue,” says David Cochran, president and CEO of Manufacturing Jewelers & Suppliers of America. Stuller says the tariffs have had a “minimal” effect on its business, as it manufactures most of its products domestically. In her last conference call, Signet Jewelers CEO Gina Drosos warned that the tariffs might hurt her business, but said that the company was cutting back the percentage of products it sources from China, from 33% to 15%.

Esther Fortunoff, president of Fortunoff Fine Jewelry, which has one store in Westbury, N.Y., and a website, says she’s heard from her box vendors that the cost of their items will go up, possibly as much as 25%. “Twenty-five percent is a lot,” she says, “and in the consumer’s mind, things like boxes and bags are part of doing business. They don’t see that as what they are paying for, but it all goes into the retailer’s costs.”

Abe Sherman, CEO of Buyers Intelligence Group, a retail group, has heard that some of his members are struggling to figure out how to handle the rising costs, particularly as the price of gold is also on the upswing. “It’s a mess,” he says. “So many of our items, especially diamond jewelry, are made in China.”

He notes that 15% added cost is enough to erase any profit in a slim-margin business such as jewelry. But he believes the real confusion could come when trying to stock balance, given that the extra duties paid to the government are not likely to be refundable. “If the jewelers paid the government an extra $1,000 for the item, will the vendors give them the full credit for it?” he asks.

11.5 Percentage of Signet’s sales that come from e-commerce. That’s more than double what it was two years ago.

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

JCK110119_027_NEWSGEMS_v7.indd 28

Sloane Picot Floating Diamond band; $1,190 Mrs. Code band with pink sapphires; $790; Hayley Paige for Hearts On Fire

3 Questions for...

CARYL CAPECI IN MAY, CARYL Capeci, then president of Hearts On Fire, was ­promoted to CEO of Chow Tai Fook North America, the newly established Boston-based arm of the Chinese ­conglomerate that ­purchased Hearts On Fire in 2014. In S­ eptember, Capeci spoke to JCK at Hearts On Fire University, the brand’s biennial ­education event. —RB Why has Chow Tai Fook set up its North American hub?

In the five years since buying Hearts On Fire, Chow Tai Fook has learned a lot about the American market. We see a tremendous opportunity in building the North American market and going beyond Hearts On Fire and [sister brand] Mémoire. When you look at the typical jewelry store, there is still an enormous amount of their jewelry case that is not branded higher-end diamonds. There is still a lot of generic diamond product. We can provide them that. And eventually, we will look to colored stones and some of the other things that Chow Tai Fook specializes in. We will also look beyond just the independent jewelers to [the majors].

Where do you see the opportunities for growth in the U.S. market?

In the U.S., we think the ­greatest opportunity is in the strong ­independents. At Hearts On Fire University, we have 175 companies who are investing thousands of dollars per person to be trained and to be educated about how to be better.

We have Harvard Business School ­professors here teaching a course about business succession and how to build a business for the long term.

These are retailers invested in the future, and those are the ones we want to stay invested in.

You recently started a collaboration with influencer Hayley Paige. What is the thinking behind that?

[It speaks to] the importance of self-purchase, and how critically important for everyone in the diamond business it is to encourage young girls, especially, to be open to the idea.

Hayley Paige calls her bands “power bands.” She is planting the seed with these 28-year-old women that you can buy your own bands. So once they get engaged and get married, self-purchase is part of the equation. Young girls, and even 30- and 35-year-old women, do not see diamonds as something they can easily buy on their own. And we have to start giving that message.

SIGNET STAT: MARILYN MONROE COLLECTION 1.5 CTS. T.W. DIAMOND DANGLE NECKLACE IN 10K WHITE GOLD, $2,999, ZALES.COM

28

JCKONLINE.COM

10/29/19 6:21 PM

NEWS GEMS

INDUSTRY&PEOPLE COMINGS AND GOINGS

taking on a new role as DDI’s regional director to lead its expansion in Africa.

Gonsoulin has been promoted to vice president of bridal, fine jewelry, and findings.

of sightholder sales for India and the Middle East.

Mary Lou Keen has retired as show manager for the American Gem Trade Association after three decades with the group.

Richard J. Whitby, who had

served as senior vice president of finance for De Beers Group sightholder sales, has joined ALTR Created Diamonds as chief financial officer.

John McCullough James Avery Artisan Jewelry has appointed John McCullough, previously

Jerry Ehrenwald Kathryn Kimmel Jerry Ehrenwald, who has

headed the North American division of the International Gemological Institute since 1991, is leaving the lab to start the Laboratory Grown Diamond Exchange, a trading platform for created diamonds. He will be succeeded

by Avi Levy, a veteran of diamond companies Star Diamond, MJJ Brilliant, and Renaissance Jewelry.

Kathryn Kimmel, senior

vice president and chief marketing officer of GIA, retired Aug. 30. Kimmel has been with GIA 29 years.

Alix Gonsoulin Toby Cruse, a two-decade Stuller has appointed Brian Henderson, who has worked for Crate & Barrel and The Gap, as vice president of marketing. Additionally, Alix

29

veteran of De Beers, is joining Diamond Foundry as vice president of strategic sales. He most recently served as De Beers’ vice president

Mary Lou Keen

Lab-grown brand Lark & Berry has named industry veteran Paul Ziff as North American brand president. He previously headed the North American division of Ralph Lauren Watches and Jewelry.

chief operating officer, as CEO. He is the first person outside the founder’s family to head the company. Chris Avery, son of the company’s founder and namesake, is retiring as CEO but will remain chairman of its board.

Signet Jewelers has appointed Neil Old as head of its United

Kingdom division. He was previously CEO at Jessops

Forevermark has let go six

employees at its U.S. division, including two employees who had long been the face of the De Beers –owned brand: vice president of sales Kevin Lane and vice president of partner development and training Jeffrey Skaret. A company source said the brand is not downsizing but changing direction.

Ian Rowe

The Diamond Development Initiative (DDI) has named Ian Rowe, who has served as deputy executive director since last September, as executive director. He replaces Dorothée Gizenga, who is JCKONLINE.COM

Tel: 323.255.6900 Fax: 323.255.6934 3334 Eagle Rock Blvd. • Los Angeles 90065 info@alexvelvetusa.com

NEWS GEMS

INDUSTRY&PEOPLE

30

of Louis Vuitton North ­A merica, as president of its

Blue Nile has named Sean Kell—current head of the

North American division.

He replaces Kilian Müller, who earlier this year left the brand to become director of sales for Bucherer Group, owner of Tourneau.

senior living referral service

A Place for Mom —as its

Alastair Bickerstaff

CEO. He takes over from Eric Anderson, the Bain Capital Private Equity executive who served as the e-tailer’s interim CEO following the January departure of Jason Goldberger.

De Beers Group Auctions

has appointed Alastair ­Bickerstaff as head of product and sales. He has been with De Beers 15 years.

World Diamond Council

Monaco Calibre 11 special edition; $6,550; TAG Heuer; 973-467-1890; tagheuer.com

Benjamin Beaufils Richard Weisenfeld has retired as president of the

­executive director MarieChantal Kaninda has left the group after two years.

Watch news site Hodinkee. com has named Joe ­Thompson

Jewelers Board of Trade

Europe Ltd., a retailer of

cameras and photography supplies. Colleen Rooney, former chief communications officer and vice president of brand marketing for Qurate Retail Group, has joined the company as chief communications officer, replacing Carol Schumacher.

child-safety product manufacturer Britax, which at one time was headed by Pandora CEO Alexander Lacik.

The Women’s Jewelry Association (WJA) has hired Tiffany & Co. veteran Jennifer Markas as executive ­director. She replaces Bernadette Mack, who has relocated to Virginia. The WJA is moving its offices to New York City.

after a year on the job. He is succeeded by Erich Jacobs, who joined the group as vice president of information technology in 2018.

Auction house Phillips has named Alexis ­Vourvoulis senior specialist and vice president in its Los Angeles office. She joins Phillips from Bonhams, where she was a jewelry specialist.

Sue Rechner

where she will oversee the customer purchase journey.

A 15-year veteran of the Omaha, Neb.–based store, she previously served as ­director of marketing.

Pandora has appointed Erik Schmidt as chief human

resources officer. He was previously chief HR officer at NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

JCK110119_027_NEWSGEMS_v7.indd 30

Jennifer Markas Ashi Diamonds has a­ ppointed Thomas Eddy sales repre-

sentative and marketing consultant for the West Coast region. He previously worked for Gabriel & Co.

TAG Heuer has ­appointed Benjamin Beaufils, a ­veteran

as its first executive editor, where he will oversee dayto-day editorial operations.

Thompson, a veteran watch industry reporter, got his start at JCK and recently appeared on JCK ’s podcast “The ­Jewelry District.”

WD Lab Grown Diamonds

has hired Sue Rechner as its CEO. Until recently, she was global president of Merrell, the footwear and apparel brand. She has also worked for Frederick Goldman and a variety of watch brands.

She takes over from founder Clive Hill, who will continue to serve as an active board member and shareholder.

Adrienne Fay Borsheims has promoted Adrienne Fay to vice president,

Sean Kell

Alexis Vourvoulis

Kering has appointed Bartolomeo (“Leo”) ­Rongone

Frederick Goldman’s recently formed Jewelry Solutions Group has enlisted John Badee, former general manager of Riva Precision Manufacturing, to be its director of manufacturing and engineering. Donna DeLucia, former director of sales for John C. Nordt and LeachGarner, has been appointed senior director of technical sales.

CEO of Italian brand Bottega Veneta. He succeeds Claus-Dietrich Lahrs, who has headed the brand since 2016.

Alrosa’s supervisory board has reelected Anton Siluanov

as chairman. Siluanov serves as first deputy prime minister and minister of finance of the Russian Federation.

Joe Thompson

HONORED Day’s Jewelers, the eight-

store jewelry chain based in Waterville, Maine, received the 2019 Renys Large ­Business Award from the

Institute for Family-Owned Business on June 3.

A recently discovered species of mineral will be named after veteran GIA gemologist John Koivula. The mineral, known as Johnkoivulaite, was found in the Mogok Valley of Myanmar.

JCKONLINE.COM

10/29/19 6:21 PM

NEWS GEMS

I&P

York bankruptcy court.

Also filing was Tara Jewels H ­ oldings, which owns 100% of the company.

Ed Bridge Jewelers of America will honor Ed Bridge, chairman emeritus of Ben Bridge Jeweler, with its 2020 Gem Award for Lifetime Achievement. The ceremony will take place Jan. 10, 2020, at Cipriani 42nd Street in New York City.

FINANCIAL On June 24, Tara Jewels LLC, a New York City–based wholesaler formerly known as Fabrikant-Tara, filed for Chapter 11 protection in Southern District of New

TD Bank has given Greenwich, Conn.–based four-store chain Betteridge Jewelers a $20 million asset-backed revolving line of credit.

On Aug. 8, the Securities and Exchange Commission revoked the shares of Scio Diamond Technology Corp.

Executives said the delisting won’t affect the company’s planned sale to Nevada ­corporation Adamas One. Lord + Taylor has been purchased by Le Tote, a 7-year-

old clothing rental subscription website, for $75 million.

The department store chain was previously owned by HBC, which owns Saks Fifth Avenue and Hudson’s Bay.

31

Auction house Sotheby’s has been purchased by telecom entrepreneur Patrick Drahi for $3.7 billion. As a result, it will become a private company for the first time in 31 years.

Camile Hannoush, one of the owners of Hannoush ­Jewelers, has purchased Michaels ­Jewelers, the 10-store ­Waterbury, Conn.–based chain.

0.875 ct. t.w.

Fusion diamond pendant in 14k white gold; $3,280; Ashi Diamonds; 212-319-8291; ashidiamonds.com

ASSOCIATIONS The Plumb Club, the ­supplier comprising some of the biggest names in the industry, is requiring members to become certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council.

REMEMBERED Donald McCutchen, owner of McCutchen Jewelers in

Rockville, Md., died June 17 at age 70.

David Morrow, husband of Reinhold Jewelers founder Marie Helene Morrow and a

Albert Milton, managing

partner in the business, died of cancer in August at age 88.

Robyn Hawk, a self-described “serial blogger” who served as a “fly on the wall,” ­chronicling the jewelry business for various outlets, died July 16 following a stroke. She was 63.

director since December 2018 of Debswana Diamond Co., the 50-50 joint venture ­between the government of the ­Republic of Botswana and De Beers Group, died Aug. 16.

Mark Cohen, co-owner and

main designer for the jewelry brand and retailer J.J. Marco, died May 27. He was 63.

GEM PRICING

POLITICAL TENSION SLOWS MARKET GEM DEALERS IN the United States are feeling c­ autious after September’s Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, reporting that political distractions here and abroad had already affected market performance, and the lack of buyers from mainland China at the show reinforced expectations for further slowing.

Many dealers think the holidays will be average at best.

Expect retailers to continue buying only for immediate needs while holding off on investing in stock.

The market is experiencing decent activity at price points below $500. The one persistently hot area remains designer and boutique-style artisans working with colored stones.

It’s this part of the market where agates, garnets, spinel, tourmalines, and zircons are particularly well traded. As for the market in general, blue sapphire remains the top seller.

Nigeria, Ethiopia, Madagascar, and Sri Lanka are the main sources today. Demand for fancy color sapphire is also stable.

Colored stone jewelry retailers are finding that customers don’t respond to marketing the way their parents did. Making the sale often depends on successfully creating an experience.

JCKONLINE.COM

JCK110119_027_NEWSGEMS_v7.indd 31

VS1

VS2

SI1

SI2

GOOD

DIAMOND: 1 ct. round brilliant G

$6,800

$6,320

$5,700

$4,720

$6,080

$5,800

$5,450

$4,470

I

$5,700

$5,200

$4,950

$4,000

J

$4,900

$4,500

$4,080

$3,760

H

1 to under 2 cts.

$2,750–$4,500

$8,000–$10,000

2 to under 3 cts.

$3,500–$6,000

$9,500–$11,500

Rhodolite Garnet 1 to under 3 cts.

$30–$70

$70–$110

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$90

$90–$150

DIAMOND: 1/2 ct. round G

$3,570

$3,200

$2,700

Rubellite Tourmaline $2,340

$3,200

$3,000

$2,600

$2,270

I

$2,720

$2,630

$2,250

$2,150

J

$2,240

$2,125

$2,000

$2,050

H

DIAMOND: 2 ct. round brilliant G

$12,200

$11,300

$9,350

1 to under 3 cts.

$75–$125

$220–$250

3 to under 5 cts.

$110–$225

$275–$375

Tsavorite Garnet 1 to under 3 cts.

$575–$850

$1,050–$1,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$1,500–$2,200

$2,500–$3,000

Tahitian Pearl Strand (knotted 14k ball clasp) $7,600

$10,300

$10,000

$8,300

$7,150

I

$9,700

$7,900

$7,600

$6,725

J

$7,200

$7,300

$6,400

$6,000

H

9 to under 12.5 cts.

$3,500–$4,500

$4,500–$8,000

10 to under 13.5 cts.

$4,000–$5,000

$5,000–$9,000

Mozambique Cuprian Tourmaline 2 to under 3 cts.

$1,800–$3,500

$5,000–$6,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$2,500–$3,700

$6,500–$9,000

DIAMOND: 2 ct. princess cut G

$8,960

$8,100

$7,575

FINE

Alexandrite

Pink Sapphire $6,600

H

$8,350

$7,560

$6,800

$6,000

I

$6,475

$6,140

$6,000

$5,400

J

$5,350

$4,850

$4,770

$4,700

1 to under 3 cts.

$425–$715

$850–$1,100

3 to under 5 cts.

$525–$950

$1,350–$1,800

1 to under 3 cts.

$50–$75

$125–$150

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$80

$135–$170

Blue Zircon

Prices shown represent actual wholesale memorandum prices paid by retail jewelers on a per-stone basis. All prices are per carat except for cultured pearls. No responsibility or liability is assumed for the consequences of the use of any information in this report, nor for errors or omissions. The terms commercial, good, fine, and extra-fine are general classifications developed and used by The GemGuide. Each represents a range of individual quality grades. When they are used in conjunction with proper grading, one can accurately pinpoint a price from within the listed range. The GemGuide is published six times a year. A one-year subscription includes market reports and colored stone and ­diamond prices. For more information, contact Gemworld International Inc., 2640 Patriot Blvd., Suite 240, Glenview, IL 60026; 888-GEMGUIDE or 847-657-0555, fax 847-657-0550. U.S., Canada, $205 complete per year. Elsewhere $275 complete per year.

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

10/29/19 6:21 PM

32

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

the industry authority

SHOWS & EVENTS

THE CALENDAR

U.S.

• NOVEMBER 18–19

INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD Miami

iwjg.com

21–24

INTERNATIONAL JEWELRY AND MERCHANDISE SHOW New Orleans

helenbrettexhibits.com

22–24

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

National Harbor, Md. intergem.com

WEST COAST GEM & MINERAL SHOW Costa Mesa, Calif.

mineralshowslld.com

29–DEC. 1 INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

San Mateo, Calif. intergem.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

Southfield, Mich.

Los Angeles

30–DEC. 1

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

intergem.com

GEMFAIRE

Monterey, Calif.

White Plains, N.Y.

• DECEMBER

9–10

JEWELRY, FASHION & ACCESSORIES SHOW Schaumburg, Ill. jfashow.com

6–8

DALLAS CHRISTMAS BEAD & JEWELRY SHOW Grapevine, Texas aksshow.com

GEMFAIRE

Costa Mesa, Calif. gemfaire.com

GREENSBORO GIFT & JEWELRY SHOW Greensboro, N.C.

GEMFAIRE San Diego

gemfaire.com

intergem.com

gemfaire.com

5–8

20–22

intergem.com

INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD

Las Vegas iwjg.com

13–15

GEMFAIRE

Santa Barbara, Calif. gemfaire.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW intergem.com

• JANUARY GEMFAIRE

Santa Rosa, Calif. gemfaire.com

Grandfather Compass pendant with turquoise, tanzanite, and diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $6,515; Retrouvaí; 646-745-6831; retrouvai.com

5–7

ACCESSORIES THE SHOW/ACCESSORIE CIRCUIT New York City

ubmfashion.com

helenbrettexhibits.com

GEMFAIRE

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Rosemont, Ill. intergem.com

TURQUOISE AND TANZANITE

3–5

HELEN BRETT HOLIDAY MARKET Gonzales, La.

December Birthstones

Chantilly, Va.

10–12

Del Mar, Calif. gemfaire.com

WHOLE BEAD SHOW Honolulu

wholebead.com

INTERNATIONAL • NOVEMBER

JMA HONG KONG

JEWELLERY ARABIA

29–DEC. 1

jewelleryarabia.com

Athens, Greece

19–23

Sanabis, Bahrain

DUBAI WATCH WEEK Dubai, United Arab Emirates

• DECEMBER 6–8

28–DEC. 1

Hamburg, Germany

Shanghai

shanghaijewelleryfair. com/en-us

CITRINE AND TOPAZ

GEMIN

dubaiwatchweek.com

CHINA INTERNATIONAL GOLD, JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR

November Birthstones

jewelryshows.org/en

gemin.eu

20–24

gtshows.com

Hong Kong

MINERALIEN HAMBURG

20–23

JAIPUR JEWELLERY SHOW Jaipur, India

jaipurjewelleryshow.org

• JANUARY 10–12

GUJARAT GOLD JEWELLERY SHOW Gujarat, India ggjs.co.in

mineralien-hamburg.de

20–22

SWAYAMVAR PREMIUM JEWELLERY SHOW Rajkot, India

namasteindiaevents.com/ swayamvar

Gaga earrings with citrine, blue topaz, and enamel in 18k yellow gold; $3,100; Sarah Hendler; 646-745-6831; sarahhendler.com

GET READY FOR… JCK TUCSON FEB. 5–8

JCKONLINE.COM

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10/29/19 6:24 PM

Your Holiday Resource Whether it’s trendy designs, classic styles, new stones, or gold-tipped roses, we have what you need to spread breathtaking joy.

See More Styles at Stuller.com/Holiday.

35

the industry authority

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

FOR THE SUCCESS OF YOUR STORE

SHOP TALK Michelle Shetler Shetler Fine Jewelers shetlerfinejewelers.com

THE FEMININE TECHNIQUE

I

Michelle Shetler and her all-female sales team practically wrote the book on clienteling

BY EMILI VESILIND

T’S NOT SNAPPY signage or a stylish storefront that lures San Antonio jewelry lovers into Shetler Fine Jewelers—the shop is invisible from the street, tucked into office space inside a five-story professional building. What reels them in are the smart, stylish, and well-connected women who work there, says owner Michelle Shetler.

The retailer, who bought the store from defunct Amarillo, Texas–based jeweler Duncan & Boyd in 2008 after working as its manager for three years, didn’t intentionally assemble an all-female sales force. But she’s seen success in cultivating a shopping environment where clients “feel like they’re talking to their friends.”

Her team prioritizes ­relationship-building above all else. “We’re an extreme ­destination, so we have to work hard each and every day to get clients to come to us,” Shetler says. “So there’s no question I have to work with highly energetic women with real clienteling experience.”

JCKONLINE.COM

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10/30/19 11:44 AM

Shop Talk

INNOVATIVE RETAILER

36

Temple St. Clair’s 18k gold and diamond Tree of Life locket

A stack of Jude Frances Jewelry bangles

Michelle Shetler (seated) and her all-female jewelry dream team

“We bring in new designers pretty much every week.”

—Michelle Shetler

really high energy around here for the entire four months leading up to the holidays. And it’s been very successful.

How did you end up hiring an all-female sales team?

I don’t exclude men from applying for positions! I’ve just had more women applicants for whatever reason. The longer I’m in the industry, the more I [understand] that there are so many companies and designers and vendors who are strictly male. So it’s interesting that it’s ended up like this for us. Culture fit is super huge for me.

When I bring on someone new, my manager will interview them first, then the entire team interviews them to make sure they’re a good culture fit.

I interview people last.

What tactics have been successful for you and the team when it comes to drumming up repeat business?

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

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We do a lot of events, especially in the fall. We’ve had what we call Passport Season for nine years now.

We send out a booklet that looks like a passport to 6,000 clients. When they open the passport, they have a list of all the events we do in the fall.

We bring in new designers pretty much every week. In September, we will have something like 15 events.

The first event is a girls’ night out where we have over 100 women come for a superfun party; they get girly drinks and a girly swag bag. It’s always well-attended, and we do a lot of outreach for it in advance: posting on social media and sending emails and texts to VIP clients. If clients bring a friend who’s never shopped with us before, they get a $100 gift card. It’s

What do you consider good clienteling?

We have a POS [point-of-sale] system where salespeople make notes on specific customers—designers they love, big occasions coming up, birthdays, anniversaries. And those notes remain in the event that a person leaves the team. I have a salesperson who is the best at reaching out to her clients. But she was recently in a rut. She said, “My clients are tired of me calling.” I sat down with her and said, “Let’s be really strategic with this.” I make sure we’re not calling the same people every week.

People get tired of constant outreach.

We do a spreadsheet for each event and make sure we’re inviting clients to events they will [genuinely] be

interested in. I pride my team on good clienteling. They do it really well.

What new jewelry categories have you had success with lately?

A lot of our custom jewelry work is bridal, but it’s also repurposing existing gems or jewelry pieces. I have a newish salesperson who has been in luxury retail for 25 years, and one way for her to start bringing her clients into the store has been to work with them on jewelry pieces they’ve had, often things they’ve inherited. It’s a great way for us not to just sell women jewelry, but also offer appraisal and advice and become trusted advisers.

GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO NOMINATE OUR NEXT INNOVATIVE RETAILER.

JCKONLINE.COM

10/29/19 6:26 PM

Proudly made in the USA Since 1951

Shop Talk

IL

FOURTH QUARTERMASTERS

BY EMILI VESILIND

Q: how do you prepare your store for the busy holiday sales season?

MELISSA BOOTH OWNER MELISSA DESIGNER JEWELRY Hillsborough, N.C. melissadesignerjewelry.com

BONNIE CORNELL CUSTOMER SERVICE MANAGER MONTGOMERY JEWELERS Montgomery, Ohio montgomeryjewelersinc.com

a: The holidays are a special time at Montgomery Jewelers.

We prepare for them by going over security steps and making sure new staff is trained and ready for any situation. We clean the inside of the cases before putting our decorations inside—we decorate with solidcolored ornaments and some Christmas pine, and silver and blue ornaments for Hanukkah.

And ordering our boxes and wrapping supplies in September allows us to accommodate the early shopper.

a: We get in all our Christmas orders from vendors by early fall so we can be on the ball when the holidays come. We have our annual sale in October so we have the money to pay invoices and go into the season not sweating December as much as maybe we would. We decorate for the Thanksgiving weekend and then take them down right after the new year, and we step up the frequency of our staff meetings.

a: Starting the beginning of the

World’s Largest & Finest Collection of Religious Jewelry

516-867-1500 (local) 1-800-229-0006 (toll free) sales@randpaseka.com www.randpaseka.com

HARVEY ROVINSKY OWNER BERNIE ROBBINS JEWELERS Somers Point, N.J. bernierobbins.com

fourth quarter, I send messages on a regular basis giving sales information, suggestions, and congratulations on a job well done, etc. We have regularly scheduled, proprietary, companywide in-house trainings. Marketing prepares the decorations for each store, and the staff sets it up. We don’t hire a seasonal staff. We’ve found that we’re unable to staff at the skill level we require on a seasonal basis.

JOANNE SCHILLING SALES ASSOCIATE PHILIP’S DIAMOND SHOP Marion, Iowa philipsdiamonds.com

a: Our town has something called a Chocolate Walk—it’s a fun adult event that all retailers in the town participate in. That’s really the kickoff for our holiday season. We’re there and open and trying to get shoppers in the mood. We also at that time get people to fill out wish lists— we’ve really been pushing wish lists hard in recent years because they work well for us.

JCKONLINE.COM

SHOP TALK

40

STORE WE ADORE 1402 FIFTH ST. BERKELEY, CALIF.

SHIBUMI GALLERY

Fine art, modern jewelry, and exquisite textiles converge at Shibumi Gallery, a tiny shop in Berkeley’s Gilman District that spotlights local and international artists

I

BY MATT VILLANO

N JAPANESE, THE word shibumi translates loosely into “effortless perfection.” That’s what April Higashi aims to accomplish at her jewelry store of the same name. The notion is, in a sense, her inspiration, her North Star. It explains why she strives to mix fine art with modern jewelry and unusual textiles, why she celebrates artists with multiple shows each year, why she has remained in one of Berkeley’s quirkiest neighborhoods for nearly 15 years. “There’s an organic quality about this place that’s still being refined,” she says. “That’s one of the things that makes it special.”

TEXTILES TO JEWELRY Higashi, now 51, always has been a creator. The half-Japanese Utah native came to the San Francisco Bay Area as a teenager and went to university for textiles and art. After graduation she worked various jobs in the fashion industry. Then she took a jewelry class and was hooked. Higashi started her own jewelry company with a friend, and nine months later they struck gold: NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

41

(FROM LEFT) MAREN CARUSO; AYA BRACKETT; STILLS: AYA BRACKETT (4)

Earrings by Higashi, Wales, Tomlinson, Sandra Enterline, Tura Sugden, Christina Odegard, Susanne Matsché, and Kate Eickelberg

Necklaces by Higashi, Enterline, Bukvic, de Pinto, Karen Gilbert, and Claudia Alleyne

Rings by April Higashi, Ruth Tomlinson, Darcy Miro, Polly Wales, Nina Bukvic, Jo Hayes Ward, and Julia Turner

Bracelets by Higashi, Miro, Sugden, Brandon Holschuh, Elisa Bongfeldt, Arielle de Pinto, and Maya Kini

“We’re small enough to provide personal and authentic service and big enough to make multiple great pieces and attract big names.”

—April Higashi

a huge order from Banana Republic. E ­ ventually the duo parted ways, but Higashi continued making her own stuff.

Finally, in 2005, she opened the storefront on the ground floor of a two-story live/work space in West Berkeley.

THE SHOW MUST GO ON Today most of the pieces at Shibumi sit in custom steel and glass displays. Higashi’s jewelry is in a case toward the back; pieces from some of the 40 other artists she showcases are on display elsewhere around the store. But Shibumi is more than just a shop; from the beginning it has doubled as a gallery that features creative genius in sculpture, textiles, photography, enamels, and more. Higashi curates between five and seven shows a year, and each one spotlights artists whose work is complementary. One recent event combined the work of two designers who are inspired by organic forms: Nan Collymore and her one-of-a-kind textiles and Eric Silva, who works with bone and antlers from animals that have died naturally.

CUSTOM BIZ While new designs account for the bulk of Shibumi’s sales, Higashi has diversified with a healthy custom business, specifically redesigning, resetting, restoring,

recycling, and reselling old pieces. “Someone who’s been through ­divorce might want to take a wedding ring and turn it into something else to transform her life,” Higashi says. She adds that she also works with heirlooms that ­customers want to make into new jewelry with new meaning. Overall, prices range from $250 to $15,000; a drawer in a cabinet near the front door features lower-end pieces throughout the year.

MANAGING THE JUGGLE Higashi’s world is small—her home and business occupy the same two-story building across the street from an old gravel factory. The store and studio are on the ground floor; the studio is about three times the size of the storefront, and she employs three full-time goldsmiths. Upstairs, Higashi and her 9-year-old son share a 1,200-square-foot living space. “I’m never too far from my work around here,” she says. “Most of the time, that’s a great aspect of the creative life.”

DO YOU ADORE YOUR STORE? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

833 Market Street, 10th Floor • San Francisco, CA 94103 • Tel: (415) 543-1580 • 800-864-0767 • Fax: (415) 398-3699 www.herco.com • Email: info@herco.com

43

the industry authority

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

STAY AHEAD OF THE JEWELRY TRENDS

THE LOOK 1

3 DAY OF THE PEARL 1/ Grace Perle hairpin in 10k yellow gold; $1,300; Sophie Bille Brahe; info@sophiebillebrahe.com; sophiebillebrahe.com

2/ Surrounding ring with mother-ofpearl and diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $12,470; Fernando Jorge; 929-314-4570; fernandojorge.co.uk

5

3/ Nuage earrings with pearls, diamonds, and colored sapphires in 18k yellow gold; $8,095; Aron Hirsch; shop@ aronhirsch.com.br; aronhirsch.com.br

4

2 Bold, modern pearls and rich yellow gold make beautiful music together

BY RANDI MOLOFSKY

4/ Pearl and diamond cluster cuff in 14k yellow gold; $8,800; Nancy Newberg; info@nancynewberg. com; nancynewberg.com

5/ Orb earrings with pearls in 18k yellow gold; $4,100; Lauren x Khoo; info@laurenxkhoo.com; laurenxkhoo.com

JCKONLINE.COM

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10/29/19 6:28 PM

the look

44

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

22k gold green aquamarine Tear pendant, $2,600; 22k gold small Solo Loop-in-Loop chain, $1,780

I

HERITAGE COLLECTION

While only in her mid-20s, Jean Prounis has created a covetable gold jewelry brand using centuries-old classical techniques

BY KATHY HENDERSON

22k gold sapphire Roz ring; $4,360; Prounis Jewelry; studio@ prounisjewelry.com; prounisjewelry.com

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

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N A CROWDED jewelry market, it isn’t easy for a new brand to attract the attention of fashion insiders. So when a 24-year-old fledgling designer gets an admiring launch article from Women’s Wear Daily, followed by features in Vogue.com and Forbes.com, it’s a good bet her line offers something fresh and exciting. In the two years since its debut, Prounis Jewelry has established itself as a collectible line of 22k gold fine jewelry in classical Greek motifs handcrafted by Jean Prounis.

The quick success of her company, which includes only one other full-time employee, delights Prounis, now 26. But it’s clear that she carefully considered her aesthetic—and the family traditions it reflects—before introducing the brand. “I worked for a year on developing the ­collection and on making sure I could articulate the inspirations behind it,” she says, seated in the small office she recently leased in New York City’s jewelry district.

“I took care to achieve a strong identity before l­aunching because I felt it was important in helping clients ­understand the brand.”

Prounis Jewelry’s origin story nods to the designer’s Greek heritage and the entrepreneurial strain that runs in her family—specifically, her great-grandfather Otto Prounis, who in the 1930s founded a nightclub called the Versailles across the street from the Waldorf Astoria hotel.

Edith Piaf sang there, Perry Como was a regular, and the club’s sage-green tablecloths and hand-gouached menus inspired the packaging and print materials for her jewelry line. (The nightclub closed in the 1950s and the space is JCKONLINE.COM

10/29/19 6:33 PM

606 S. OLIVE ST. STE 2018, LOS ANGELES CA 90014 213.622.9866 | 800.742.8864 RAHAMINOV.COM

the look

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

46

22k gold Trio Nona earrings; $3,450

22k gold garnet Masona ring; $5,980

22k gold Laurel Tropaion long earrings with antique Mediterranean coral and South Sea pearls; $6,800

now a steakhouse, with a wall of Versailles memorabilia.)

Jumping forward a generation, Otto’s son Nick amassed a library on ancient Greek culture, which he shared with his granddaughter. The rich gold jewelry she saw in the pages of her grandfather’s books and on display at the Metropolitan Museum of Art made a strong impression on Jean, the only child of globe-trotting parents who started successful businesses of their own in suburban Long Island.

“I grew up taking classes at FIT on the weekends and went to summer camp there when I was 11,” says Prounis, who longed to do something with her hands but couldn’t figure out what that might be. Just before entering Skidmore College as a biology major, she signed up for a class with master goldsmith Cecelia Bauer in the very building that now houses her office. “Something clicked,” she says with a huge smile. “I just fell in love.”

The ancient metalwork skills that Prounis learned under Bauer’s tutelage—granulation, soldering, stone setting, chain making, and, most crucially, working with a 22k gold alloy—meshed perfectly with her desire to create fine ­jewelry with a Greco-Roman influence. The fact that she could use responsibly sourced stones and an alloy of recycled gold mixed with fine silver and copper made her company sustainable from the start, a selling point with a clientele that

“We’re a young brand, but I wanted to come off as a heritage brand.”

—Jean Prounis

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

JCK110119_044_LOOK_DesignerShowcase.indd 46

skews toward self-purchasing women in their 30s and 40s.

Prounis acknowledges with a laugh that her taste in jewelry is more mature than the average millennial’s, with high-end lines such as Hemmerle, JAR, Taffin, and Sabba (created by another precocious young designer, Alessandro Sabbatini) among her favorites. “We’re a young brand, but I wanted to come off as a heritage brand,” she ­explains.

She envisioned clients who would become collectors, moving up from “entry pieces” such as $580 Hexa granulated stud earrings to $3,800 Trade rings (stackable gold bands ­inspired by ancient rings used as currency) to her best-­selling one-of-a-kind Roz pinky rings centered with colorful moonstones ($2,800), tourmalines ($3,480), or sapphires ($4,360). At the high end are couture pieces featuring diamonds, star sapphires, and South Sea pearls.

“Growing up,” Prounis says, “I, of course, purchased costume jewelry, but I gravitated toward antique fine ­because it has a history and can be passed on.” After ­designing and fabricating each new piece at a bench in her sunny office, she turns to a handful of freelance ­jewelers to help fulfill orders. “It’s important to me to have my eyes on every piece,” she says of producing the line in New York City. New collections are introduced JCKONLINE.COM

10/29/19 6:33 PM

the look

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

48

22k gold Granulated Boat-Shaped hoop earrings; $6,280

22k gold Granulated Pagoda drop earrings with South Sea pearls; $23,000

22k gold green tourmaline Calda ring; $9,800

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

JCK110119_044_LOOK_DesignerShowcase.indd 48

twice a year, most recently pieces featuring a Greek laurel leaf motif accented with 1940s Mediterranean coral.

The company got a huge postlaunch boost when the influential Brooklyn retailer Catbird agreed to carry the line. “That really helped grow the business,” Prounis says, and a year later, she convinced Bergdorf Goodman to host a successful trunk show. Now her list of retailers includes Bergdorf; Dover Street Market in New York and Los A ­ ngeles; Twist in Portland, Ore.; Reliquary in San ­Francisco; and Holly Golightly in Copenhagen, Denmark.

“We’ve developed a great client base,” she says, ­estimating that 40% of her business comes through retailers and 60% from private clients who contact her via the Prounis ­website or word-of-mouth.

A “Vow” section of the site displays unisex gold wedding bands, and the company’s Instagram account shows off custom-made engagement rings with the brand’s signature handcrafted look. “I wanted to call it ‘Vow’ rather than ‘Bridal’ because not everyone is getting married traditionally,” she says. “We get [commissions] from partners coming in together looking for alternative rings, often using their own heirloom stones.” For inspiration, they need only look at the designer’s hands, which are lined with bands of all widths and designs, including one studded with garnets, a favorite gem since a family trip to Prague.

One thing you won’t see on Instagram—or even on the Prounis Jewelry website—is a photograph of Jean Prounis.

Although she loves meeting clients at trunk shows and sales appointments, she has no desire to be the “face” of her product. “I wanted [the company] to be a brand, not ap ­ erson,” she says. “I’m proud of my family and wanted to use our last name, but I want the brand to be beyond myself.” She hasn’t felt the need to post Instagram stories of scouting trips to Greece, preferring photographs of boat-shaped hoops, seeded bands, and aquamarine teardrop pendants displayed on a neutral background.

Like many ambitious young designers, Prounis envisions expanding her business into other categories, including fragrance and stationery. But for now, she is content to carve clasps based on ancient Greek fibulas or fuse tiny granules to the shank of a cabochon ring. The allure of creating matte gold jewelry that becomes polished over years of wear is especially strong. “I love 22 karat,” she declares, “the history of it, the warmth, and how it becomes part of you. It’s a record of you and your life. I think everyone should open their hearts to it.”

JCKONLINE.COM

10/29/19 6:33 PM

the look

RED CARPET

50

PETAL PUSHERS We’re going to need a moment to rhapsodize over these Emmy-night blooms

BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

BILLY PORTER

To steal a line from his a­ cceptance speech: “The category is love, y’all.”

We love everything about the Pose star’s look, from the custom ­Michael Kors disco-diva suit (made with 100,000+ crystals!) to the ­asymmetrical Stephen Jones hat to, of course, the jewelry: cufflinks and a floral ­cocktail ring by Oscar ­Heyman, which is fast becoming ­Porter’s go-to brand. If you didn’t catch his Emmy-night speech, Google it right now—and grab some Kleenex.

JULIA LOUISDREYFUS

Love was all around at the Emmys.

Louis-Dreyfus’ stylist, Cristina Ehrlich, told Vanity Fair that the actress, a nominee for her role in Veep, “loves Oscar de la Renta,” who designed her beaded gold lamé column gown. JLD, in turn, told VF she’d fallen “deeply” in love with the dress (“if it were possible to fall in love with a dress”). And we loved the Superbloom earrings that Irene Neuwirth customized—with diamonds and opals—just for her.

18k yellow and white gold earrings with 5.73 cts. t.w. diamonds (similar to LouisDreyfus’); $31,980; Irene Neuwirth; 310-566-6660; ireneneuwirth.com Petali three-flower drop earrings in 18k yellow gold with 0.82 ct. t.w. diamonds; $14,970; Marco Bicego; 866-424-2346; us.marcobicego.com

UNDER $500

(FROM L.) SANTIAGO FELIPE/GETTY FOR ABA; DAN MacMEDAN/WIREIMAGE

Ring with 2.48 cts. t.w. diamonds and 0.93 ct. t.w. fancy color diamonds in gold and platinum; $35,000; Oscar Heyman; 212-593-0400; oscarheyman.com

UNDER $2,500

UNDER $50,000

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

Ring with 3.4 ct. round fancy orange brown diamond and 3.05 cts. t.w. round white diamonds in 18k white and rose gold; $35,000; Leibish & Co.; info@leibish. com; leibish.com

Flower ring with 10.25 cts. t.w. white sapphires in sterling silver with white rhodium; $1,950; Dilamani; 516-4666767; dilamani.com

Two-way convertible clear quartz and turquoise flower earrings in 14k gold– plated brass; $288; Bounkit; 212-2441877; bounkit.com

UNDER $20,000 JCKONLINE.COM

the look

Q&A

52

Horizon earrings in 18k yellow gold with turquoise, citrine, and diamonds

Asks...

EMILY P. WHEELER

The California designer taps into “the colors and textures of ’80s surf culture” for her new pieces IF THINGS HAD gone differently, Emily P. Wheeler could have been a model on the cover of JCK. When she was 16, Peter Lindbergh photographed her for Vogue Italia. But she took another direction, and now models—and celebs such as Taylor Swift and Rachel Brosnahan—wear her jewelry. Her new line, Kitty Hawk, is as cool as she is: “I grew up going to North Carolina with my family where my dad loved to windsurf, and the highlight for me was always visiting Kitty Hawk Kites,” she recalls. “The time and place has a distinct color palette in my memory. Bright neon sails, pastel bathing suits, natural wood decks, black rubber booms, and salty wet suits.” Surf’s up! —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO Age: 35 Number of years in the biz: 7 Number of employees you oversee: 0 Family and pets: Very tall and funny fiancé John, two rescue dogs named Leon and Lola [pictured ], and 14 fish.

Describe your personal style: Ethereal, eclectic, and colorful.

Comfort is key, and I wear sneakers with everything.

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

One-of-a-kind Sunset earrings with spinel and diamonds in 18k white gold

Tiered Signet ring with garnet, turquoise, and diamonds in 18k yellow gold

First piece you ever designed: Earrings for my mom when I was 12 made with hematite, wire-wrapped with sterling silver.

Piece you’re most proud of: My Sunset earrings, a flashy and sexy pair of earrings made with spinel and trillion, baguette, and pavé diamonds.

Best piece of advice you ever received: “Fake it till you make it.”

Worst piece of advice: “Get out of the jewelry industry.”

First job ever: I worked as an assistant to my dad, a photographer.

How did you get started designing jewelry? I began making beaded projects for friends as a hobby. I always had ambitions of creating fine jewelry. It grew organically: I started selling to friends, then doing small trunk shows, then selling in local stores, etc.

If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing?

Hiking; training my dogs; mountain biking in Jackson, Wyo., where my family lives; obsessing about fashion; or my latest hobby, ponding.

Jewelry you’re wearing right now: I always mix old pieces that were meaningful gifts, vintage jewelry, pieces from my signature collection, and one or two one-of-a-kind pieces from new collections that I didn’t have the heart to part with.

Five items on your desk right now: My computer, my sketchbook, seven pieces of jewelry from Kitty Hawk that need to get to New York ASAP, a bag of chocolate-covered almonds, and a pile of raw materials I’m brainstorming with for spring-summer 2020.

Five songs on your playlist: “Adore,” Cash+David; ­“Lovers,” Anna of the North; “Throwing It All Away,” Genesis; “Tilted,” Christine and the Queens; “The Right Type,” Chromeo [pictured ].

Guilty pleasure: Gummy candy.

Drink (daytime/evening): California wine.

How do you unwind? I snuggle my pups or go nerd out with my pond and feed my fish. Taking care of creatures makes me relax. When that doesn’t work, I turn to exercise or alcohol.

Book you’re reading: I read Where the Crawdads Sing by Delia Owens, and I am still not over it. It is such a beautiful book.

Personal motto: “Do something that scares you every day.” I was taught this by someone who was very special to me. Her voice in my head has pushed me into life experiences that I’m thankful for.

JCKONLINE.COM

Th e E x p e r t s i n Going Out of Business. Retiring. Moving.

Joey and Bret Westlake

“This sale exceeded my financial goals. It was above and beyond anything we could have expected.

Wilkerson is really unique in that they match the consultants with the owners.”

- Joey Westlake Victoria’s Fine Jewelry

“My name is Joey Westlake, and I’m the owner of Victoria’s Fine Jewelry in Rockport, Texas. I moved here about thirty-three years ago and that’s when I opened the store. I’m a member of IJO, RJO, and AGTA. My husband, Bret, and I have been talking about retiring for several years, and finally decided that now is a good time, so we decided to have the retirement sale. I’ve been dealing with Wilkerson for about twenty-five years. I got to know almost all the staff. They were wonderful people. There was no question when we decided to do a GOB, Wilkerson was the only company I would go with.

This sale exceeded my financial goals. It was above and beyond anything we could have expected. Wilkerson is really unique in that they match the consultants with the owners. Your specific set of needs will be met and they will address that. They match your personality. We enjoyed having our consultants every single day.

It was great!”

- Joey Westlake

Contact us today for a free consultation!

Call Bobby Wilkerson, Rick Hayes or Josh Hayes at 800.631.1999.

Or visit us at wilkersons.com.

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Dodecahedron earrings in 18k yellow gold; $1,600; Vitae Ascendere; 415-231-6999; vitae-ascendere.com

FEATURES

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COZY UP TO THE FIRE WITH A SMORGASBORD OF THIS SEASON’S M O S T S C RU M P T I O U S Y E L L OW M E TA L D E S I G N S

Photography by Joel Stans S t y l i s t s E m i l y & To n y M u l l i n Jewelry Editor Rima Suqi

Scatter Star bangle in 14k yellow gold with 0.21 ct. t.w. diamonds, $6,000, Dilamani, 800-3426677, dilamani.com; 14k yellow gold Cigar Band ring with 0.54 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,200, KC Designs, 800-552-3790, kcdesignsnyc.com; Malibu Star ring with 1.01 cts. t.w.

diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $16,000, Rahaminov Diamonds and Irit Ehrlich, 213-6229866, rahaminov. com; Chrona link bracelet in 18k yellow gold and platinum with 2.22 cts. t.w. diamonds, $23,540, Vram, 866-301-MUSE, musexmuse.com

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Oval link bracelet in 22k yellow gold, $8,400, Dorian & Rose, 213622-8480; Signet ring in 18k yellow gold, $1,750, Page Sargisson, 212-629-7092, pagesargisson.com; Opal cigar band ring in 18k yellow gold

with a 2.38 ct. opal, $4,950, Dilamani, 800-342-6677, dilamani.com; Laurel earrings with 0.47 ct. t.w. diamonds set in 14k yellow gold and sterling silver, $3,200, Michael Aram, sales@ michaelaram.com, michaelaram.com

Crownwork 18k yellow gold necklace and acorn pendant with 0.65 ct. t.w. diamonds, $16,150, Ray Griffiths Fine Jewelry, 212-689-7209, raygriffiths.com;

Cuban Link ring with 0.39 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold, $2,175, KC Designs, 800-552-3790, kcdesignsnyc.com; 18k yellow gold Wedding Diamond band with 0.25 ct.

diamond, $2,995, Page Sargisson, 212-629-7092, pagesargisson.com; Valentina necklace in 18k yellow gold with 5.28 cts. t.w. diamonds, $14,950, Dorian & Rose, 213-622-8480

Python 18k yellow gold choker, $66,000, Python asymmetrical drop earrings, $8,900, Cadar, 212-6633456, cadar.com; 18k yellow gold ring with 0.75 ct. t.w. diamonds, $4,000, 18k yellow gold ring with 0.13 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,725, Ralph Masri, amber@luxcartel. com, ralphmasri. com; 14k yellow gold earrings with 0.5 ct. t.w. round brilliant-cut diamonds, $2,700, Kimberly Elliott for Oro Alexander, 800-782-1231, oroalexander.com

Diamond Circle earrings with 1.49 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $4,775, Cirari, 212764-2823, cirari.com; 1 Diamond Smooth Long Fishtail earrings in 14k yellow gold, $6,875, Jacquie Aiche, 310-5507529, jacquieaiche. com; Gold Stars earrings with 1.95 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $9,000, Umrao, 212-575-4727

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HEN LVMH CHAIRMAN and CEO Bernard Arnault’s talented son Frédéric Arnault joined his father’s global luxury conglomerate in late 2018, he didn’t onboard as a chief marketing officer or head of business development. Instead, the 23-year-old stepped into the role of strategy and digital director for LVMH-owned Swiss watch brand TAG Heuer.

The technology-forward position—and the fact that one of Bernard Arnault’s offspring aspired to inhabit it—embodies the changes currently happening in retail ranks. As e-commerce, social media, and digital marketing and advertising become crucial to retailing, jobs are being reshuffled and new roles are being created.

For retail juggernauts such as LVMH, the shifts have led to the creation of jobs with titles such as marketing partnerships manager, social media ­director, and chief content officer (with dozens of nonmanagerial positions below).

At small and midsize jewelry companies, positions that didn’t even exist 10 years ago are now regularly promoted in job posts. Why? Everyone knows that e-commerce and social media, when used wisely, can modernize a retail business.

Edward Lemire, founder and president of ESP Global, an executive recruiting firm for the global ­jewelry industry, has recently seen the ­time-honored job of marketing director broken up and/or ­reallocated under the umbrellas of new tech-ified positions. “Every jewelry company you can think of wants to hire a good social media executive,” he says.

But social media is only the tip of the iceberg when it comes to positions your brand or company may want to fill. Here are some of the n ­ ext-generation staff roles you should consider adding to your ­employee roster in the near future.

A S T H E D I G I TA L

SOCIAL MEDIA DIRECTOR/STRATEGIST

The retailer’s e-commerce growth in recent years is a testament to how smart the creation and staffing of those roles can be. Suzanne Courvisier-Mathis, founder of Diamond Staffing Solutions, says Day’s president Jeff Corey “has mastered the digital side of things and grasped how important social media was early on.”

DIRECTOR OF CONTENT The internet has turned all lifestyle brands into publishers, pushing out a steady stream of content designed to entice today’s visually driven consumers. And while many jewelry firms leave the online storytelling to their marketing teams or social media pros, others are investing in professional writers to collaborate on social initiatives, ads, blogs, and other wordy endeavors.

DIGITAL PRODUCTION COORDINATOR A digital production coordinator—typically an entry-level position—works in tandem with e-commerce professionals to perform duties that can vary widely but may include product photography, posting products to the e-comm site, and scheduling social posts within a content calendar. Reeds Jewelers in Wilmington, N.C., at press time was advertising for a digital production coordinator to oversee and provide support for the development of innovative functionality on the company’s website.

This position tends to be flexible and often offers young employees room to explore jobs they may want to grow into.

JEWELRY’S NEW JOBS

AGE USHERS IN N E W R E TA I L RO L E S , E N S U R E Y O U R H I R I N G S T R AT E G Y I S O P T I M I Z E D FOR 21st CENTURY–ST YLE SELLING

Lemire notes that a few small jewelry companies in his circle are working to emulate the path Rhode

by Emili ­Island–based brand Alex and Ani took—e.g., hiring I l l u s t r ation by a band of young, tech-savvy content creators to blitz social media platforms.

It’s debatable whether that road to glory is still open; Instagram’s changing ­algorithms have made it a pay-to-play arena for marketers. But the power of social media is undeniable and can be particularly effective for small retailers looking to reach a tightly defined geographic area.

Many smaller jewelry companies outsource their social media, but others have brought it in-house—as upstart lab-grown diamond brands Diamond Foundry and Couple have done—perhaps for reasons to do with cost, or to ensure that their social content is imbued with that coveted behind-the-scenes authenticity.

E-COMMERCE MANAGER Equally—or, arguably, more—important to recruiting a talented social media staffer is identifying a professional to oversee your company’s e-commerce business and the platforms that deliver it to your consumers.

Day’s Jewelers, the nine-store fine jewelry chain based in Waterville, Maine, employs both a full-time e-commerce web manager (to take care of the website) and an e-commerce service manager (to take care of consumers shopping the site).

UX DESIGNER/ARCHITECT Major jewelry brands, including Stuller, have adopted this nitty-gritty digital role in recent ­ years. And despite its fancy name, it boils down to a simple thing: making sure every aspect of a shopper’s journey on a website is as smooth and friction-free as possible. That means optimizing every button, product page, and blurb of copy.

This position differs from a graphic designer or website developer in that the user experience ­(UX) designer advocates for the end user of an ­e-commerce site while simultaneously promoting the company’s business goals.

MARKETING PARTNERSHIPS MANAGER

New York City–based diamond jewelry brand Ritani recently added a marketing partnerships manager Ve s i l i n d role to its operations. It’s a tech-forward position that M a r i o Wa g n e r focuses on audience development partnerships with media outlets and other entities along with collaborations with other brands.

If reaching out to businesses and social media influencers is central to your company’s business strategy, this (or a similar) position may be worth considering.

DIGITAL CUSTOMER SUPPORT SPECIALIST In retail, your consumers are already contacting you through multiple channels— asking questions and scheduling appointments over the phone, through your website form, on email, and over Facebook, Instagram, and maybe even Twitter.

That means you might need a staffer dedicated to communicating on digital.

“Over the last 10 years, the online business has become the core component for us,” says Claire Goldwitz, vice president of marketing and business development for Ritani. “And our customers contact us in all different ways.” In response, the brand’s customer service team has changed. “The customer support team itself is ­extremely flexible. They’re comfortable talking to people across a number of platforms; we’ve even had customers direct message us on Instagram. Whatever channel makes sense for the customer, we will be there to talk to them.”

Atelier Swarovski is super-clear that its Diama brand uses lab-created Swarovski Created Diamonds (Signature ear cuffs; $2,490).

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Diamond Cuban Link choker in 18k white gold with 52 cts. t.w. diamonds; $133,400; Jadelle Beverly Hills; 310-721-5151; jadellebh.com

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5 Kaleidoscope Quadricolor ring in 14k gold with 0.01 ct. t.w. multicolored sapphires, amethysts, and tsavorite; $550; auratenewyork.com

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Through year-end, Gurhan is giving 25% of profits from its tourmaline jewels (like this one-ofa-kind $10,250 bracelet) to Earth Alliance, to help the Amazon rain forest.

The recent Ulysse Nardin augmented- and virtual-reality– powered pop-up at Watches of Switzerland’s SoHo shop

5 HOT TO P I CS FO R 2020

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IF YOU’RE A DIRECT-TO - CONSUMER BRAND SELLING SUPERCOOL C E R T I F I E D E C O - F R I E N D LY G O L D C H A I N S V I A V I R T U A L R E A L I T Y, C O N G R AT U L AT I O N S : Y O U ’ V E A L R E A D Y W O N 2 0 2 0

5: WATCHONISTA/LIAM O’DONNELL; MODEL: ALAIN GIL-GONZALEZ/ABACA/SIPA USA/AP

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WHO’S GOT THE CHAIN?

THE DIRECT ROUTE

Layered necklaces and designs featuring chains (often tagged #neckmess on Instagram) are among the more-is-more jewelry trends we’re predicting will take flight in the coming year. The spring 2020 fashion runways were full of bold chain pieces, including Marc Jacobs’ waist-length 1970s-inspired medallion necklaces and Alexander McQueen’s mixedsize links (pictured, opposite page).

There was also plenty of piling on: Fashion brand Zimmerman paired necklaces composed of huge ivorycolored curb links with ones crafted from thick shell beads, while designer Brandon Maxwell merrily stacked waist-grazing yellow gold necklaces anchoring gemstone medallions. Fashion always reflects culture—and these bold trends are positively vibrating with feminine power. —EMILI VESILIND

In April, Mejuri, a direct-toconsumer brand focused on millennials and self-purchasers and founded just four years ago by third-generation jeweler Noura Sakkijha, raised a tidy $23 million in its second funding round.

That’s on top of the $5 million the Toronto-based jeweler raised the year before. Two months later, another jeweler that targets the millennial self-purchase market, AUrate, raised $13 million, building on the $2.6 million it raised at its 2017 launch. Whatever happens with these companies, clearly the investment community sees them as the future of jewelry. Vanessa Larco, partner at New Enterprise Associates, which led the Mejuri round, said in a blog post she believes there’s “room for a modern jewelry brand that appeals to a new generation of consumers, with a modern and fun shopping experience, and that values their opinions.” —ROB BATES

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MARKET VALUE The industry hasn’t exactly had an easy time wooing millennials, and winning the hearts of their younger siblings in Generation Z may prove even trickier. Jewelers are increasingly looking at how to do that, as evidenced by a new report on the post-millennial generation produced for CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation.

Report author Jonathan Kendall said Gen Z shoppers—who already spend an estimated $163 billion a year—rank the environment as their No. 1 concern, and some 70% consider sustainability before they make a purchase. They also value authenticity, transparency, diversity, and a personal touch.

Plus, they are tough customers.

“The more added value, the better,” Kendall said. That “can come from its environmental credentials or its social value.” —RB

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THIRDPARTY SYSTEM The Federal Trade Commission has already said it doesn’t like lab-grown diamond companies calling themselves eco-friendly, and it turns out consumers aren’t crazy about that either. A recent survey

by MVI Marketing found that 85% of jewelry purchasers believe that independent third-party verification of chain-of-custody and eco-impact claims is “very important” when they purchase diamonds, be they mined or lab-grown. “The consumer is getting more sophisticated,” says Liz Chatelain, MVI president.

“We are starting to see consumer pushback, asking, ‘Who is really confirming and verifying what it is you’re telling me?’ ” —RB

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REALITY CHECK We’ve been talking about augmented reality, virtual reality, and holographic technologies for years, but 2020 will be the year they go mainstream at retail. Luxury watchmakers have already seized the moment. In July, a group of eight Swiss brands owned by the Richemont group—including Cartier, Panerai, and Piaget—banded together to create an experiential pop-up at New York City’s Hudson Yards called Arcadium where the only way to see products was virtually.

Both Bulgari and Ulysse Nardin have teamed with authorized retailers—Westime and Watches of Switzerland, respectively—to take clients on virtual tours of their timepieces. And in 2018, Ben Bridge Jeweler debuted holographic technology to allow consumers to visualize its customdesigned Bella Ponte collection and view the pieces on their mobile devices as they’re being made.

Says Ben Bridge CEO Lisa Bridge: “It gives them a new perspective on their jewelry and provides a unique journey.” With all roads leading back to the retailer, we presume. —VICTORIA GOMELSKY

SALES FORCES 66

Betteridge Jewelers in Greenwich, Conn.

WARREN LAGERLOEF

has been at Greenwich, Conn.–based Betteridge Jewelers for a remarkable 39 years. He says the scope of his work there is much broader than his title, senior salesperson, would suggest. Lagerloef believes that his background in design and a college minor in silversmithing gave him a great foundation for appreciating the craft and the history of a jewel, an approach that

THREE OF THE COUNTRY’S TOP JEWELRY SELLERS SHARE THEIR COUNTER CULTURE SECRETS

by Martha C. White

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O FIND OUT what draws customers to someone behind the counter or keeps them coming back over the years, JCK went straight to the source. We spoke with three celebrated salespeople—Warren Lagerloef in Greenwich, Conn.; Holly Lewis in Omaha, Neb.; and Alexis Padis in San Francisco— about what it takes to win friends and influence customers. Although the three have diverse ­backgrounds and came into the industry with different skills, from analytics to ­silversmithing, these sales superstars share the same ­philosophy about what turns a browser into a buyer. While there’s no “secret sauce” involved in what they do, they have a knack for forging genuine ­relationships with customers and pride themselves on delivering insight, advice, and service.

What character trait do you think has been the biggest asset to your sales success?

I’m a voracious reader and voraciously hungry to know everything there is to know about jewelry. To me, knowledge is the most important selling technique.

Is there someone in the industry you looked to for guidance?

I learned a huge amount from Terry [Betteridge]. If a great piece of jewelry came in, he was so open to teaching me what he knew. But it was more the liberty to learn on my own. There was no definition of what we did—clearly, it’s to

sell things, but our job was to be better at it than anybody else was, and what was important about that was your knowledge and your honesty.

You’ve weathered all sorts of economies. What’s the biggest ­difference between the highs and the lows?

In a gangbusters bull market, people kind of throw money at you—keeping up with the Joneses, that kind of thing— but you also get a larger amount of returns. I know in the worst of times, you get very few returns. Purchases are much more considered. If you’re spending money, you’re legitimately planning to spend it.

A lot of retailers feel ­threatened by e-commerce.

Why don’t you?

There’s always going to be the need for the “Warren factor”—I don’t mean just me, but in the sense of brick-andmortar, walk in and learn something. I still think there will always be customers asking, “You know my wife— what do you think she’d like?”

What they’re really saying is, “Sell it to me. Tell me about it, tell me why it’s special.”

What about the in-store experience keeps your ­customers coming back?

We don’t have ice scrapers in a bowl. We have people who are smart, and you walk out knowing you purchased ­something special and why. I think the e­ xperience we’re selling—at least, I hope—is learning about it, ­understanding the craftsman who made it, understanding the design…and appreciating it. I think it’s understanding that it’s more than just stuff.

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HOLLY LEWIS

has worked at Borsheims Fine Jewelry and Gifts in Omaha, Neb., for 25 years, but the executive sales associate introduces herself as “one of the newbies”—an indicator of the loyalty this Berkshire Hathaway–owned institution inspires.

Borsheims’ roots stretch back to 1870. In 1989, Berkshire CEO and famed investor Warren Buffett bought a controlling share in Borsheims. He and a cadre of Berkshire shareholders still make a pilgrimage to Borsheims each year during the annual shareholders meeting. Chances are, Lewis will be there to greet them— with a smile.

Borsheims Fine Jewelry and Gifts in Omaha, Neb.

How did you get into sales?

My friend always says my dad started me in sales with Girl Scout cookies. When I was selling them, he’d say, “You need to make it interesting.”

What motivates you on a day-to-day basis?

I enjoy being with people, and I enjoy being around beautiful jewelry. Our job makes people happy and that makes me happy. No matter how I’m feeling, I try to project happiness to the customer.

What quality do you think contributes most to your sales success?

I’m always honest. One time I answered the phone and this fellow wanted to buy a pair of earrings he’d seen on the website for his wife that she could wear every day. They were big dangly earrings, and I said, “I don’t think these are everyday earrings—they’re much larger and dressier than they look.” So we found something else. That’s happened time and time again; people rely on my knowledge.

The Padis-operated Walnut Creek, Calif., Forevermark boutique

ALEXIS PADIS

was born into the business, working in various roles at the San Francisco store her parents started in 1974 and have since expanded to encompass a total of five locations—including a Forevermark-branded store that opened this year in Walnut Creek, Calif. She became president of Padis Jewelry earlier this year and was recognized as a top Forevermark Carat Club seller in 2018.

How is selling branded gems such as Forevermark different from selling non-branded jewelry?

Even compared to other branded jewelry, Forevermark’s story is so comprehensive. It helps relay the bigger picture.

Jewelry is not something that people necessarily need, so it’s our job to impart how amazing gemstones and diamonds and fine jewelry are, and, more

What are some things you do to build relationships with customers to keep them coming back?

I treat each customer as if they’re going to spend a million dollars. I treat each customer like I like to be treated when I go shopping. Any little perk I can give them, I do, because people really enjoy that. And I try to keep being hands-on every time they’re here, whether it’s for a sale or a repair or even a cleaning. Say I special-order something for someone. When

I call to let them know it’s here, I say, “Why don’t you find me,” instead of just sending them to customer service.

importantly, to impart that knowledge in an authentic, meaningful, and educated way.

because we’re so close to Silicon Valley where you’ve got Peloton, Tesla, Apple—all these stores that have perfected the art of bridging the gap between online and real life.

You have a marketing analytics background. How does that help you?

People’s motives, their demographics, their place in life all affect what they’re looking for and why, and any kind of insight you have into that is incredibly helpful. It helps you do a better job of being able to curate the experience for them.

What’s the strategy behind how you position your Forevermark store as a distinct entity from the Padis brand?

We’ve all noticed the need to create a more fluid omnichannel approach. Forevermark wanted to echo what they’re showing the consumer online with the in-store experience. It really was the perfect marriage

How would you describe your sales style?

I don’t give a lot of pressure.

If a person just wants to come and look around, that’s not a problem, and most people who are repeat customers know I feel that way. I don’t just try to upsell everyone. I really try to help each person get what they want.

We hear a lot today about how consumers don’t just want a product, they want an experience. How do you deliver that?

It’s the hard part because it’s the intangible. It starts with the staffing and people you bring on your team and the company culture. It’s very much the approach the hospitality industry takes.

Marriott and the Four Seasons and Ritz-Carlton all have these approaches of go above and beyond for your customer. I think we have a lot to learn from the hospitality experience when it comes to the in-store experience for jewelry.

PA RT 6 O F 6

J C K WO U L D B E N OW H E R E W I T H O U T T H E I N D U S T RY I N S I D E R S W H O H AV E H E L P E D T H E M A G A Z I N E A L O N G T H E WAY — B Y M A K I N G T H E NEWS, READING IT IN OUR PAGES, OR BOTH. SO WE ASKED 150 OF T H E M TO J O I N T H E D I A LO G U E A B O U T H OW T H E J EW E L RY BU S I N E S S H A S C H A N G E D O V E R T H E D E C A D E S A N D T H E R O L E W E H AV E P L AY E D I N T H AT E V O L U T I O N . H E R E A R E T H E F I N A L 2 5 .

150 Y EA RS 150 VO I C ES

by Whitney Sielaff

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“I’ve been in the jewelry industry since 1992. Over time, the digital landscape has leveled the playing field by allowing designers to reach more buyers, stores, and other retail opportunities. Social media gets designs in front of everyone immediately.

The jewelry industry has worked its way into homes and garages and guest rooms with sites like Etsy. Instead of our industry getting smaller, it’s gotten larger.”

—TODD REED, founder and designer, Todd Reed

“I came to JCK in 1972. For my first significant ­feature, editor George Holmes set me loose to drive through the South for three weeks—starting in Atlanta and ending in ­Birmingham, Alabama—to interview every jeweler I could find. He sent me to Antwerp, Bombay, and Tel Aviv in 1979 to write the most famous story I ever wrote for JCK, ‘Checkmate: De Beers Moves to Protect the Cartel.’ In the year following, I wrote a major exposé of a widespread tax fraud that involved donating junk gems to museums at vastly inflated valuations. A grateful IRS official told me, ‘It’s because of your magazine that we’re in this room today.’

Every writer I worked with at JCK earned similar accolades. We were in fierce but friendly competition to maintain our magazine’s golden standard for excellence.”

••• “The biggest changes over time have definitely been in technology. Everything moves at a much faster pace. Products and companies can be launched in the blink of an eye. Important decisions and purchases can be made over a ­smartphone. But even with all of these advances, our industry is still primarily about relationships and reputation—business is still done with a handshake.”

—DAVID FEDERMAN, former senior editor, JCK; former executive editor, Modern Jeweler

—NIVEET NAGPAL, president and head designer, Omi Privé

2015 GRAND PRIZE JCK JEWELERS’ CHOICE AWARD–WINNING BLACK OPAL RING WITH TSAVORITE, BLUE SAPPHIRES, AND DIAMONDS, OMI PRIVÉ

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“We are a full-service advertising agency, and in 1999 our company made a decision to go all in for the jewelry industry. In the beginning, ­everything we did was traditional marketing.

Now, at least 60% of what we do is digital.

The industry was slow on the uptick. But most are starting to get it.”

“When I started, it was all about diamonds, rubies, sapphires—which were always blue—and emeralds. Today there is a much larger palette of exciting colored gems to choose from: tsavorite, tanzanite, aquaprase, and even red beryl/red emerald. We see sapphires in virtually every color, and we have tourmaline in every color, not just green.”

—ANTOINETTE MATLINS, gem and jewelry author; president, Antoinette Matlins LLC

—ELLEN FRUCHTMAN, president, Fruchtman Marketing

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“Security has been a big change. When I ­started in the family store over 40 years ago, vendors still came in with a pair of sample bags.

There was no fear of setting appointments in advance, and no one felt the need to dress down in casual clothes with a backpack.”

—GEORGIE GLEIM, owner and president, Gleim the Jeweler

“I well remember my early impressions of JCK magazine. To me it was the equal to some of the more notable fashion magazines in layout, size, and imagery. We always kept a library of JCK issues as reference.”

—ANDREW BLOCK, CEO, Second Time Partners

••• “When I started with MJSA [Manufacturing Jewelers & Suppliers of America] in 1986, we had a publishing agreement with JCK for AJM [American Jewelry Manufacturer] magazine.

Many of the same sales and production folks handled AJM, and we worked together a lot.

JCK has always been a group of highly qualified professionals who take what they do very seriously and only produce the best.”

—DAVID ROCHA, executive director, Jewelers for Children

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“I’m a relative newcomer to the jewelry industry. I worked at Apple for nearly 10 years, then launched the wearables initiative for Movado Group in 2014. In many ways, this industry is a lot like others. Technology is changing the way we do business and creating opportunities to get very close to our customers through data and marketing, even without physical stores.”

—JO LAWSON, CEO, Sparkle Cut Diamonds

“The manufacturing and design process has ­witnessed incredible changes over the years. ­Computer-aided design and rapid 3D printing have led to better design capabilities and mass ­customization, accelerating the delivery of a finished product from the vision stage to the consumer.”

••• “Over time, retailers have begun to see the importance of branding themselves. That shift in mindset, the introduction of the internet, and now the demand for ­customization have really changed everything about running a jewelry business. My first impression of JCK was that it was serious— a newsy publication. It has since evolved its character to still report the pertinent industry news but with more personality.”

—ASHLEY BROWN, executive director of marketing and public relations, Stuller

—RUTH BATSON, former CEO, American Gem Society and AGS Laboratories

••• “The past 16 years have seen a gradual shift in how the ­jewelry ­industry views internet technology—initially as a fad, then a ­requirement, and now a way of life. Keeping abreast of new ways of doing business is difficult for everyone who’s trying to make the right choices to further their business. Time and again, JCK has reported that jewelers should never pinch pennies when it comes to internet ­technologies, just as it did in the 1960s about the importance of TV commercials.”

—MATTHEW PEROSI, chief thinker, Sapphire Collaborative

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“These are not quiet times for jewelry or raw materials, nor will they be in the future. We need to compete for the attention of a tattooed and computer-literate new generation. JCK magazine means effectiveness, curiosity, and knowledge—meeting people from the most important businesses and R&D [research and development] institutions and feeling the pulse of where the market is going.”

—ANDY JOHNSON, owner, Diamond Cellar Holdings

—EWA RACHOŃ, director, Ambermart

•••

“During the past few years, changes in the jewelry business have come faster than ever.

The entire world is living in acceleration. I like changes, as they are chances. But often they’re not correctly remembered, and they get lost in time. I am quite sure that, over 150 years, JCK has much more to tell than me about them. I would love to go through your archives and find them all written— like a fascinating testimony of the story of jewelry. A hundred and fifty is a great age and for sure a great achievement. All the very best for your future!”

—ROBERTO COIN, founder and designer, Roberto Coin

••• “For many in the jewelry industry, Maiden Lane and Fulton Street in New York are now only a memory. But that area was very much part of the business when I joined JCK in 1963. For the following 35 years, I was fortunate to work with talented professionals who made JCK the industry leader.”

—LEE LAWRENCE, former JCK international sales ­manager; founder, Professional Jeweler

PORTOFINO 2-ROW AND 4-ROW BANGLES IN 18K WHITE AND YELLOW GOLD WITH 1.91 CTS.–3.75 CTS. T.W. DIAMONDS, $11,500–$21,500, ROBERTO COIN

•••

“Looking back over my 25 years with the American Gem Society and AGS Labs, generational transitions in family businesses, the introduction of new diamond treatments and synthetics, and, of course, online retailing were monumental!”

71

•••

••• “One of the greatest shifts I have seen is that women have become much more directly involved in becoming collectors.

I used to see a lot of women educating their partners on what they liked. But now my customer is a woman buying the jewelry for herself. I feel like she really connects with the jewelry on an emotional and artistic level, which brings me great joy, truly.”

—IRENE NEUWIRTH, owner and designer, Irene Neuwirth Jewelry

••• “In 1975, Richard Liddicoat, the president of GIA, asked if I would be interested in addressing the AGS [American Gem ­Society] Conclave with Dr. Kurt Nassau and Bob Crowningshield.

Part of my presentation detailed my recommendations for GIA’s first foray into colored stone grading. Its overwhelming success ­resulted in Mr. Liddicoat assigning me the task of ­d eveloping GIA’s first colored stone grading course. Today, consumer ­protection objectives are being diluted in a maze of meaningless gem lab terminology, floating diamond grading standards, and misguided public policies. JCK has faithfully followed and reported many of these activities and developments, establishing and ­reinforcing its well-deserved reputation of presenting information with a fair and balanced approach.”

“I’ve been in the industry for 42 years, but who’s counting? We went from being a cordial, l­ocalized industry to one that was boosted big-time by the development of the I­ nterstate Highway System and the boom in suburbia and mall ­construction. Now, greatly abetted by the latest selling tool, the internet, the old retail ­formats are eating their own. Today, our core retailers, the ­independent operations, know that their future lies in e­ xpanding their reach. JCK is essential in gathering and publicizing information about trends, technology, personnel, and the outlook for the industry.”

—BEN JANOWSKI, founder, Janos Consultants

—C.R. “CAP” BEESLEY, chairman, Gemstone Standards Commission

18K GOLD PINK OPAL CHERRY BLOSSOM BRANCH EARRINGS, $23,680, IRENE NEUWIRTH

•••

•••

“In the early ’80s, I was part of an influx of immigrants from India, Iran, and other Middle Eastern and European countries who were migrating to the U.S. to expand their businesses, resulting in a boost in international trade and diversification of materials. The rough diamond business eventually phased out, and melee diamonds played a big role in the industry in the ’90s. In the 2000s, volume jewelry manufacturing moved overseas. The industry has been evolving all along, and it seems to be changing at a faster pace these days.”

“Forty years ago, there were no jewelry brands, internet, or i­Phones. We were open five days a week, and margins were a heck of a lot better. Everything has changed: the mix of our merchandise, the rise of jewelry and watch brands, marketing, responding to customer requests immediately, the importance of training our staffs, how we merchandise our showcases, technology. The retail experience—now certainly a buzzword—is a cornerstone to building traffic in our stores. And that experience has to be authentic and change to fit our customers’ tastes.”

—BASANT JOHARI, president, Kubér

Lux Bond & Green

—JOHN GREEN, co-owner, president, and CEO,

••• “When I first came to GIA’s downtown L.A. lab, there was no identification department. We all knew some colored stones could be treated, but we really didn’t know how to detect many of those treatments. Our expanded focus on colored stones proved fortunate, because advances in technology have continued to give rise to many new treatments that can significantly affect the value of a gemstone.”

—SHANE McCLURE, director of West Coast Identification Services, GIA Laboratory

•••

“In the late ’80s, JCK was an important source of information to me as one of those responsible for De Beers’ U.S. marketing programs. At that time, De Beers employees couldn’t visit the U.S., so JCK helped to fill the gaps and provide a valuable overall view of what was happening. Once I moved to PGI, JCK again played an important role in reflecting the growing importance of platinum in the bridal jewelry market in the U.S.” —JAMES COURAGE, former De Beers executive; former Platinum Guild International CEO; former Responsible Jewellery Council chairman

••• “I’ve grown up in a family-owned jewelry business, and JCK was and continues to be my number one source for news and trends in the industry.

JCK has only ever been interested in bringing to light the visions, dreams, and ideas created in the minds and hearts of the many artists around the globe. In the words of my father [the late designer Scott Kay], ‘Having ­someone’s back, no matter what, is heroic and speaks of passion and honor.’ I thank you all at JCK for capturing the essence of who my father was and continuing to support me in my new ventures.”

—TIFFANY KAY, founder, Tiffany Kay Studio

•••

“Ours is an industry that leads us to bring genuine passion to the work we do. During my professional lifetime, the underlying love of trade by jewelry people has remained a constant. As we witnessed major developments such as retail consolidation, branding, enhanced marketing know-how, and the powerful impact of social media and e-commerce, we called upon that passion to absorb those changes and to deal with them in a savvy and winning way. And JCK helped us do that. I, for one, read and digest every page in every issue.”

—RALPH DESTINO, chairman emeritus, Cartier North America and GIA

WISH LIST I T ’ S N OT TO O L AT E TO A D D S O M E EXTRA SPARKLE TO YOUR CASES. F RO M S H A P E LY R I N G S TO E M E R A L D THEMES, THESE STOCKING STUFFER– READY JEWELS ARE GUARANTEED TO L I G H T U P A N Y O N E ’ S H O L I D AY.

by Randi Molofsky

73

G R A N T E D BRIGHT STARS Lapis, rutilated quartz, and sapphire ring in 14k yellow gold, $3,750, Andrea Fohrman, sales@ andreafohrman.com, andreafohrman.com; Single Star inlay pendant with multicolored gemstones in 18k yellow gold, $5,300, Brent Neale, 646-745-6831, brentneale.com; Star earrings in 18k rose gold, $840, Carolina Bucci, customerservice@carolinabucci.com, carolinabucci.com; Four Star earrings in 18k yellow gold, $1,400, Jennifer Meyer, sales@ jennifermeyer.com, jennifermeyer.com; Istanbul sapphire and diamond ring in 18k yellow gold, $1,780, Selim Mouzannar, communication@ selimmouzannar.com, selimmouzannar.com

EVERYDAY EMERALDS Emerald earrings in 18k yellow gold, $9,000, Parulina, 917-438-7061, parulina.com; emerald crystal necklace in 18k yellow gold, $9,150, Irene Neuwirth, 310-566-6660, ireneneuwirth.com; Grass Seed

emerald ring in 18k yellow gold, $1,245, Ileana Makri, chiara@ rainbowwave.com, ileanamakri.com; emerald and diamond bracelet in 18k yellow gold, $8,925, Jemma Wynne, sales@jemmawynne.com, jemma wynne.com; Baby X earrings with emeralds and diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $2,900, Emily P. Wheeler, 646-745-6831, emilypwheeler.com

75

RAINBOW EARRINGS (Clockwise from top) Somewhere Over the Rainbow tourmaline and sapphire earrings in 14k yellow gold, $5,500, Mateo, sales@mateonewyork.com, mateonewyork.com; Brigid sapphire and diamond earrings in 18k yellow gold, $8,872, Ana Khouri, 646998-4840, anakhouri.com; Monroe Crescent earrings in white onyx with rainbow gemstones in 18k yellow gold, $6,000, Sorellina, 646-745-6831, sorellinanewyork.com; rainbow sapphire and diamond spiral 30 mm hoops in 18k yellow gold, $7,600, Suzanne Kalan, 818-885-6400, suzannekalan.com; Rainbow Disco multi gemstone hoop earrings in 14k yellow gold, $12,610, Robinson Pelham, 44-207-828-3492, robinsonpelham.com

SINGLECHARM BRACELETS

(Clockwise from top) Quartz and diamond bracelet in 18k rose gold, $1,495, Dezso by Sara Beltran, sales@ dezsosara.com, dezsosara. com; inlaid white petrified wood and topaz bracelet in 18k yellow gold, $2,745, Foundrae, wholesale@ foundrae.com, foundrae. com; Unicorn Fantasy link bracelet in 14k yellow

gold, $1,775, RetrouvaĂ­, 646-745-6831, retrouvai. com; Cord bracelet in 18k yellow gold, $775, Pippa Small, wholesale@pippasmall. com, pippasmall.com; moonstone bracelet with diamond and sapphire bee charm in 14k yellow gold, $1,015, Sydney Evan, 213-236-4444, sydneyevan.com

77

MARQUISE-SHAPE COCKTAIL RINGS (Clockwise from top) Black enamel eye ring in 18k yellow gold, $1,800, Nayla Arida, info@naylaarida.com, naylaarida. com; diamond Brutus ring in 18k yellow gold, $3,900, Kim Dunham, info@kimdunham.com, kimdunham.com; amber enamel Evil Eye ring with brown diamonds in 14k rose gold, $2,540, Lito Fine Jewelry, sales@litofinejewelry.com, litofinejewelry.com; marquise bezel amethyst and enamel ring in 18k yellow gold, $2,100, Sarah Hendler, 646-7456831, sarahhendler.com; pavĂŠ marquise diamond ring in 18k rose gold, $8,525, Anita Ko, 424-302-0413, anitako.com

L A S TMINUTE HOLIDAY HACKS

MAKE THIS YOUR MOST SUCCESSFUL YEAR-END Y E T. C O N S I D E R T H E S E T I P S F R O M I N D U S T R Y E X P E RT S T O J I N G L E A L L T H E WAY T O T H E B A N K .

by Amy Elliott

EARRINGS: GENEVIEVE HANSON; GIFTS: VICTORIA BEE PHOTOGRAPHY/MOMENT/GETTY

Kuro earrings in sterling silver and brass; $575; Ariana Boussard-Reifel; sales@ariana boussardreifel.com; arianaboussard reifel.com

79



MONITOR Q UA N T I T I ES Make sure you have enough inventory to get through the entire holiday season. “You’d be amazed how many studio designers run out of product the week before Christmas and lose 30% of their holiday sales because of it,” says New York City–based jewelry designer Ariana Boussard-Reifel.

2. Leverage Customer Wish Lists Give the customers who have wish lists on file special treatment. Personally notify them of promotions. Or host a VIP shopping event in their honor.

4

MAKE MERRY

3

SHOOT A BEAUTIFUL CAMPAIGN “It’s certainly an investment,” acknowledges Jennifer Gandia, co-owner of Greenwich St. Jewelers in New York City. “But considering that we use the photos across all touchpoints—in-store, website, social media, email marketing, digital advertising, direct mail, and more—we know there is impact, and sales as a result. Last year, we sold enough product out of the holiday lookbook to cover the cost of the shoot and printing, and we ended the year up 15% in sales.”

9. Incentivize With Discounts A 10% or 15% discount is always appreciated. Ditto free shipping for orders placed online. Offering a Black Friday promotion along these lines is vital—and expected—and it should be ready to go live on Thanksgiving Day, when people are shopping from home or on their phones.

“Consider offering special pricing on one of these pieces, and present it in a prewrapped gift box,” says Nan Palmer, owner of Denver-based Facets Jewelry Consulting.

“You can play with your margins here by selling large quantities at a ‘doorbuster’ price.”

5. DON’T STOP SELLING

“So, you’ve sold a beautiful pair of diamond stud earrings to your customer for his wife. What’s the next thing you do? Wrap it up and take his credit card? No!” says Kevin McLean, partner ­development executive at Forevermark U.S. “Ask him who else is on his list. He may not have realized that you have a pair of silver earrings for $75 that will be perfect for his niece.”

Find ways to make your in-store events extra-compelling. Men like whiskey. Henna tattoos are irresistible. And everyone loves a flamenco dancer. “We hosted pop-ups with local artists each weekend in December last year,” says Jamie Hollier, owner and founder of Balefire Goods in Arvada, Colo. “It brought new people to our doors and also offered our regular customers access to makers that share our gallery’s focus on artisan-made goods.”

6

BULK-ORDER BEST SELLERS

Use 7 Subliminal Gestures (yes, really) “When talking about the piece of jewelry, the jeweler can subtly, softly nod their head ‘yes.’ At the right time, this can influence a customer’s buying ­decision,” says body language expert, author, and media ­personality Blanca Cobb.

10

8

CELEBRATE EVERYONE

Honor and respect all your customers with displays that reflect the festive season in general terms. “We once did a window with a beautiful white sleigh in the background with white quartz elements that looked like little icebergs, and white jewelry on icy-blue mounts, and it was really effective,” says Hillary Macklowe, chief operating officer at Macklowe Gallery on New York City’s Park Avenue.

STREAMLINE YOUR ASSORTMENT Neutral gold-and-diamond or pearl pieces always sell during the holidays. Still, make sure you’re curating strategically and staying on-brand. “I won’t sell random things just to make a sale,” says Alexis Kletjian, a jewelry designer who owns an eponymous boutique in Kennett Square, Pa. “This holiday, I’m only reordering customer favorites.”

Love Lock necklace in solid 14k yellow gold with 0.21 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,080; Shy Creation; info@shycreation.com; shycreation.com

80

11. BE THOUGHTFUL ABOUT PACKAGING

“Our returning clients know they can count on exceptional wrapping without the insides being ‘given away,’ as our holiday wrap changes every year,” says Danielle Merzatta, co-owner of Merzatta in Morristown, N.J. “When a sale is closebut-not-closed, often preparing the gift wrap alongside the piece and showing the entire presentation that the purchase includes can seal the deal.”

14

Nurture Client Relationships

13

12

CALL IN SANTA

When Chicago-based Steve Quick Jeweler hosted a promotional event that asked customers to choose “mystery discount” ornaments from Santa’s sack, they hired a professional actor. “The person who plays Santa needs to be really outgoing,” says president Melissa Quick. “Ours stood outside and engaged random people who weren’t our regular clients to come in and shop, and the discount they got then compelled them to buy.”

“We position ourselves not as solicitors but as their trusted guides in gift giving,” says Julie Von Bargen Thom, owner at Von Bargen’s Jewelry in ­Hanover, Vt. “We don’t sit back and hope they remember their favorite pieces or tell their partners. We reach out and follow up.”

15

16

But Skip the Holiday Card

Jenny petite hoops in 18k yellow gold; $1,900; Rosa Van Parys; 818928-4430; rosa vanparys.com

“An email greeting is much more cost-effective, ­eco-friendly, and makes it easier for clients to respond,” says Kaeleigh Testwuide, ­president of The Diamond Reserve in Denver. “Last year I wrote ­personalized ‘We are here if you need us’ holiday emails and got a lot of responses and sales as a result.”

17 CULTIVATE

A POSITIVE ENVIRONMENT “We consistently have a leader on the floor setting the energy and celebrating the wins of the team,” says Brad Schneider, head of retail at Shinola in Detroit. “We know it only takes seven seconds to make a first impression, and we’ve got to ensure each one is positive whether it be through body language, visual merchandising, or the initial greeting of the guest.”

Omaha stainless steel watch with white enamel dial and green nylon strap; $700 (also includes orange and dark navy straps); Shinola; 888-3042534; shinola.com

Show Prices

Be transparent about what things cost. “The jewelry stores I know that are posting prices on their Facebook and Instagram platforms are selling their jewelry,” says Aleah Arundale, founder of the Jewelers Helping Jewelers Facebook page.

“This makes people feel empowered, and the more empowered a customer feels, the more likely they are to buy.”

DIVERSIFY YOUR PRICE POINTS “Designers should cover a variety of price brackets,” says Amalia Keramitsis, a New York City–based branding and retail consultant.

“Anything at or below $1,500 to $5,000 works well. Once you hit $10,000, that requires more thinking and decision-making on the part of the buyer.”

18. Message Your Differentiators “Identify what services you already offer that may attract the holiday shopper’s eye,” says Ashley Ayoob, manager of client and media services at Centro, an advertising software developer and digital media agency headquartered in Chicago. “This could include free shipping, free returns, and more. Boast about these in your social ad copy and through Google’s various ad extensions.”

19

Spread Good Cheer

Jewelers who amplify the holiday spirit in their ­communities see their efforts rewarded in sales. Since 2014, Alter’s Gem Jewelry has staged a tree-lighting ceremony in front of its store in Beaumont, Texas.

“Last year, we saw over 800 people attend—including the local news—and we see an increase in foot traffic not only after the event, but also prior to it,” says sales associate Michelle Coon.

SANTA: ANDREW BURTON/GETTY; TREE: CLOE-FONTAINE/UNSPLASH

Cairnes pendant with sliced diamond and petrified whale bone in 18k and 14k gold, sterling silver, and white enamel; $8,800; Merzatta; danielle@merzatta. com; merzatta.com

NEW MONTH FOR 2020

FEBRUARY

FEBRUARY 9 – 11, 2020

MIAMI BEACH CONVENTION CENTER MIAMI BEACH, FL

Join us at our next Miami Beach Event, now taking place in February!

The JIS February show is the perfect time to restock and replenish your inventory while reconnecting with vendors and buyers alike. Timed perfectly to bring you business exactly what it needs—JIS February is the perfect industry event for you.

Registration will be open soon and exhibitor inquires are welcome! JISSHOW.COM/FEBRUARY

AÄłordable Luxury Featuring Lab-Grown Diamonds

Call +1 646-452-7046 I Email: Info@smilingrocks.com www.smilingrocks.com

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

N T 19 O W P O R 20- G R R E B D LA ON AM DI

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

JCKONLINE.COM

GROWTH INDUSTRY

DESIGNED BY PENÉLOPE CRUZ

ATELIERSWAROVSKI.COM

LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS 86 Stacking rings with 0.375 ct. lab-grown pink, blue, and white diamonds in 10k yellow gold; $600 each; Lightbox; 866-657-7622; lightboxjewelry.com

AGE GR

WN

R E T A I L E R S A R E S E E I N G I N C R E A S E D D E M A N D A N D V E R Y F E W D R AW B A C K S T O S E L L I N G L A B - G R O W N D I A M O N D S . I S T H I S T H E D AW N O F A D É T E N T E B E T W E E N S U P P O R T E R S O F M I N E D V E R S U S M A N - M A D E G E M S , O R S I M P LY A T E M P O R A RY C E A S E - F I R E ?

T

b y K r i s t i n Yo u n g

HE JEWELRY INDUSTRY’S long-standing fear of labgrown diamonds appears to be rapidly disappearing. Instead of complaining about the potential damage nontransparency could wreak and the adverse effect man-made stones could have on the global diamond market, retailers are chanting about the emerging business opportunities.

Consumers, too, have shown a willingness to embrace lab-grown diamonds and are gladly eschewing stones mined from the earth in favor of manufactured gems—particularly if they come at a more affordable price. According to anecdotal evidence reported by JCK, the turnaround seems to have begun roughly two years ago.

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

Morgan Stanley estimates that by 2020, lab-grown diamonds could account for 15% of sales of gem-quality melee diamonds (defined as less than half a carat in rough form) and 7.5% of sales of larger diamonds. Paul Zimnisky Diamond Analytics projects the lab-created diamond jewelry market will grow to $15 billion by 2035.

If you need further convincing, consider the degree to which the walls separating the mined-diamond community and labgrown have fallen—to wit, De Beers’ foray into the lab-grown market with its wholly owned subsidiary Lightbox, which debuted at JCK Las Vegas in May 2018. Of course, the company had a huge leg up in the category: Element Six, De Beers’

JCKONLINE.COM

SM

Laboratory-Grown Diamond Price IndexSM

By LGD Exchange and GemGuide 4th Quarter 2019—October-December

.25-.49

Clean (IF-VVS)

Near Clean (VS)

Slightly Included (SI)

Included (I1-I2)

Colorless (D-F)

800-2,500

650-2,000

625-1,500

600-1,200

Near Colorless (G-J)

625-2,200

575-1,600

550-1,300

500-800

Faint (K-M)

550-1,200

500-1,100

450-800

400-600

Clean (IF-VVS)

Near Clean (VS)

Slightly Included (SI)

Included (I1-I2)

1,175-3,000

1,050-2,250

925-1,950

800-1,300

Near Colorless (G-J)

900-2,400

800-1,900

750-1,475

700-1,100

Faint (K-M)

750-1,350

650-1,200

550-900

500-700

Clean (IF-VVS)

Near Clean (VS)

Slightly Included (SI)

Included (I1-I2)

Colorless (D-F)

2,175-3,700

1,700-2,650

1,175-2,250

850-1,375

Near Colorless (G-J)

1,375-2,650

1,100-2,200

1,175-1,950

700-1,225

Faint (K-M)

1,100-1,625

900-1,350

775-1,175

650-900

1.00-1.49

Clean (IF-VVS)

Near Clean (VS)

Slightly Included (SI)

Included (I1-I2)

Colorless (D-F)

2,750-4,175

2,450-3,850

1,775-2,750

1,100-1,575

Near Colorless (G-J)

1,875-2,850

1,650-2,625

1,325-2,625

900-1,350

Faint (K-M)

1,250-1,800

950-1,450

875-1,350

775-1,100

1.50-1.99

Clean (IF-VVS)

Near Clean (VS)

Slightly Included (SI)

Included (I1-I2)

Colorless (D-F)

4,175-5,400

2,750-4,375

2,175-3,325

1,200-1,950

Near Colorless (G-J)

2,525-4,075

1,750-3,800

1,575-3,175

1,000-1,475

Faint (K-M)

1,600-2,075

1,450-1,950

1,150-1,700

900-1,250

.50-.69 Colorless (D-F)

.70-.99

Prices shown are for round only, excellent cut. Other shapes may vary slightly in price. There are many manufacturers of Laboratory-Grown Diamonds and prices can vary greatly from this list.

This price list is prepared independently by the LGD Exchange and the GemGuide. The LGD Exchange is a buy/sell platform for in-trade only. None of the diamonds listed are owned, bought, or sold by the exchange. The GemGuide is published by Gemworld International and is independent and does not buy or sell gems, only conducts research and pricing. www.lgdex.org

www.gemguide.com

LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS 88

1 ct. cushion-cut white lab-grown diamond pendant in sterling silver; $900; Lightbox; 866-657-7622; lightboxjewelry.com

The Lightbox pop-up at Aventura Mall in Miami

synthetic-producing subsidiary, has been turning out lab-grown diamond discs for the manufacturing sector for the past 30 years, and has mastered the process of growing gemstones.

“We did a lot of analysis before we launched this,” says Steve Coe, CEO of Lightbox. “The company took the view, like any new technology, once it’s been developed, you can’t put it back in its box.”

Lightbox has since hosted retail pop-ups in New York City, Miami, and Los Angeles and is considering a permanent retail venture. In ­mid-October, the brand announced a brick-and-mortar wholesale trial with select Bloomingdale’s and Reeds Jewelers locations. While news like this clearly suggests there’s momentum behind the lab-grown business, statistics are not yet available to quantify how many stores are exploring the category.

“No one has a supportable handle on the number of retailers currently carrying lab-grown diamonds,” says Chris Casey, president of the New York City–based Lab-Grown Diamond Council. “We will be looking to provide this information in the first quarter of 2020 but anything prior to that is just a guess.”

JCK wanted to know more: How are lab-grown diamonds affecting ­jewelers around the country, how are they influencing mined-diamond business, and how are consumers responding?

Devon Bond, co-owner of Garrick Jewelers in Hanover, Pa., has been selling lab-grown diamonds for about three years. He began purchasing Diamond Foundry lab-grown gems—Leonardo DiCaprio is an investor—in 2016, around the time the brand began laser-inscribing its product.

“We felt it was better to be the first jewelry store in our area to offer and explain lab-grown diamonds rather than keep our heads in the sand and ignore them,” Bond says.

The store initially began carrying 0.5 ct. to 1.25 ct. stones; they saw about one or two sales of lab-grown diamonds per month. Today, the store sells two to four lab-grown diamonds per month outside of the holiday season. “This year, we are expanding into a complete bridal and fashion line in 14 karat gold with lab-grown diamonds,” Bond says.

Surprisingly, sales of lab-grown diamonds at Garrick have not affected NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

CLAIMS OF RESPONSIBILITY WILL “SUSTAINABLY GROWN DIAMONDS” BE THE INDUSTRY’S NEXT BIG THING?

BY ROB BATES After the Federal Trade Commission warned lab-grown companies not to call themselves eco-friendly or sustainable, many moved away from those claims.

But the newly formed Lab-Grown Diamond Council has enlisted SCS Global Services, the certification company that has worked for the Responsible Jewellery Council and Brilliant Earth, to develop a standard that will allow certain lab-grown diamonds to be called “sustainably grown.”

The standard will have three pillars: environmental impact, social responsibility, and community benefit, says Stanley Mathuram, vice president of corporate sales at SCS. The environmental standard will require companies to begin making their operations carbon neutral, and to account for the ecological impact of any mined materials used in the diamond growing process. The social responsibility standard will audit the company’s factories and cutters and measure their wages, working conditions, and whether they have or allow collective bargaining. The third pillar ensures that a company is incorporating some form of community benefit into its business model. “Sustainability means nothing if a company just does what’s needed,” Mathuram says. “It is more than just carbon.”

Furthermore, every “sustainably grown diamond” would have to be tracked through the supply chain, from the factory to the retailer. This won’t be easy, Mathuram admits, and he has gotten some pushback from growers, who up until now have been making these claims without any problems. But he feels it’s necessary in the new environment.

“None of the current [eco-friendly] claims are substantiated,” Mathuram says. “The FTC is being listened to by all the growers. It’s not the Wild West and the consumer is getting smarter, and they understand that environmental issues are a big deal, social issues are a big deal, climate issues are a big, big deal. It goes back to: We can’t just keep saying what we want anymore.”

18k white gold 1 ct. t.w. lab-created diamond stud earrings; $1,650; Brilliant Earth; 801-691-0952; brilliantearth.com

JCKONLINE.COM

Modern Brilliance is our new lab-grown Diamond jewelry collection premiering just in time for holiday gift-giving. It features an array of chic and classic styles — all available in 14K white, yellow, and rose Carrying lab-grown Diamond jewelry can expand your customer base by offering varying price points and a new story to tell. Order a selection for your holiday cases and capture those sales.

Learn more at Stuller.com/ModernBrilliance.

Items featured, left to right: 652481, 60872, 68577, 124033 and 123732

LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS 90 1 ct. t.w. lab-created diamond ring in 14k rose gold, $2,499, 2 cts. t.w. lab-created diamond ring in 14k white and rose gold, $8,999, ALTR; 646847-2323; altr.nyc

sales of the store’s mined diamonds. “Most customers come in wanting mined diamonds,” Bond says. “We offer [lab-grown] as an alternative and allow our customer to decide. Sometimes the customer has a budget that will not allow them to purchase a mined diamond of the size and quality they want, and they will gladly explore lab-grown.”

Bond says his biggest fear is that lab-grown diamonds will be misrepresented.

That would be commensurate with financial suicide. “I think the more we know and accept them, the safer you are.”

14k white gold Ripple hoop earrings with 1.02 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamonds; $3,440; amandapearl.com

COMMITTED TO THE CAUSE Amanda Brotman, owner of Amanda Pearl in New York City, is one of the more recent converts, having made the switch to exclusively selling lab-grown diamonds in her designs and in her store earlier this year. As a retailer and designer, she believes in the product’s ethical message. “There’s a huge market for it,” she says. “From an environmental and social standpoint, it just makes sense. Doing something positive is a huge selling point. And I feel good we’re not supporting terrorism or slave labor.… We’re all in.”

For the holidays, Brotman says she will treat her lab-grown diamonds much as she sold mined diamonds in the past. She will create a “normal” marketing push, including promoting the lab-grown diamonds as a giftable item.

If there’s been any pushback from consumers regarding her switch to labgrown, Brotman is not aware of it. “If anything, people get excited about them,” she says. “Our customer is pretty well-informed and someone who cares about these diamonds being traceable. They know for certain that they’re not supporting anything bad.”

ON DEMAND Even established jewelers, some of whom have been in operation for dozens of years, are embracing lab-grown diamonds. Roz Gordon, co-owner of Gordon Jewelers in Boonville, Mo., has carried New York City–based ALTR Created Diamonds since 2017. “Well, we have to keep up with technology,” says the ­retailer, who made the decision after watching the evolution of lab-grown ­colored stones over the years. “We have mined diamonds alongside lab-grown, and we disclose it up front.”

Gordon says it’s wrong to believe that lab-grown diamonds are for millennials or exclusively for a younger customer. “I sold a lab-grown diamond to a gal in her upper 50s,” she says, adding that the store has seen more growth with lab-grown diamonds than with lab-grown colored stones. “We sell to all ages. It comes down to what their beliefs are. Do they want diamonds grown in the earth or grown in the lab?”

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

Although her store offers jewelry ranging from $100 to $10,000, Gordon will not be positioning the lab-grown diamonds as stocking stuffers for the holidays.

Her rural farming community recently experienced a rash of floods, and she fears she would offend people by offering them on the cheap. Still, Gordon is optimistic that the lab-grown stones will do well this holiday and into 2020.

A number of retailers are entering the lab-grown arena in response to customer demand. Designer John Atencio, owner of seven jewelry stores in Colorado, says his company has always been dedicated to mined diamonds but heeded the call of consumers about two years ago. “As our customers were asking for more, and in some cases were going to buy solely lab-grown diamonds, we made the decision to start sourcing and selling those types of stones,” Atencio says.

Within the last few years, Atencio has seen the market change drastically; his stores now carry several lab-grown brands, including Diamond Foundry.

The retailer currently offers lab-created diamonds for bridal and diamond rings but made the decision not to introduce the stones into his own eponymous jewelry collection. “Customers seem split and very well-educated in the choices they have,” Atencio says. “Both types of stones—mined and lab-grown—are very relevant, and we are happy to serve and sell each type with full disclosure, confidence, and integrity.”

Like other retailers, Atencio believes strongly in full transparency, both between lab-grown manufacturers and retailers and between retailers and their customers. If the rest of the industry can be counted on to do the same, he’s convinced there is very little getting in the way of this burgeoning market.

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by Rob Bates NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

N 2018, THE Federal Trade Commission (FTC) concluded a major overhaul of its Jewelry Guides, including its recommendations on lab-grown diamonds.

Many in the lab-grown community, with some validity, hailed the changes as a major victory.

And yet, in the months since, some have gotten “creative” with their interpretations of the new Guides, says Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC) president and CEO Tiffany Stevens. A year after the overhaul, the FTC sent eight companies that sell lab-grown diamonds and diamond simulants letters about their marketing, warning their advertisements could possibly “deceive” consumers.

Which is why it’s important to review what the FTC Guides do—and don’t—say:

DISCLOSURE IS STILL REQUIRED. In perhaps the most commented-upon change, the FTC removed the word natural from the definition of a diamond. “It is no longer accurate to define diamonds as ‘natural’ when it is now possible to create products that have essentially the same optical, physical, and chemical properties as mined diamonds,” the FTC wrote, explaining the change.

That has led some to insist that the FTC has declared “a diamond is a diamond.”

While that’s a possible interpretation of the change, the commission never used that particular wording. Under the new FTC Guides—just like the old ones—the unadorned word diamond can still refer only to a natural, mined gem. That means disclosure remains a requirement for non-natural diamonds.

“Marketers still need to make those disclosures [if they are not selling] a mined diamond,” says Reenah L. Kim, staff attorney for the FTC’s enforcement division, who worked on the revamp. Furthermore, the disclosures need to be clear and conspicuous—and the closer the disclosure comes to the claim, the better.

“Some advertisers reveal the true nature of their products behind vague hyperlinks, in an FAQ section, or on an ­‘education’ page,” wrote the FTC in a June blog post. “That won’t do. Consumers could easily overlook the information JCKONLINE.COM

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LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS 94

SIMULANTS ARE DIFFERENT FROM LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS.

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because it’s not close to the product description.”

Marketers even have to be careful on social media. If the only descriptor comes in a hashtag (#labgrown), that could be misleading, the FTC says.

THE FTC RECOMMENDS THREE DESCRIPTORS FOR LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS. So how should companies describe lab-grown diamonds? The FTC recommends the terms ­laboratory-grown, laboratory-created, and [manufacturer name]-created. It has okayed use of the word cultured, but manufacturers need to use other descriptive or qualifying language.

The term synthetic was once on that list of recommendations, but it was removed with this revision. However, contrary to some assertions, synthetic hasn’t been prohibited; some labgrown companies currently use it in their marketing.

The new guides do give marketers leeway to use other descriptors “if they clearly and conspicuously convey that the product is not a mined stone.” But that doesn’t mean marketers can call their diamonds whatever they want. For instance, in the warning letters it sent out in June, the FTC cautioned against using the descriptors aboveground and real diamonds created in America, which it felt “[do] not clearly and conspicuously disclose that the diamonds are laboratory-created.”

“As a federal agency, [the FTC is] always balancing consumer protection against free speech,” Stevens said on “The Jewelry District,” JCK ’s podcast. “They wanted to give a little more of that free speech breathing room. Their line of thinking is, ‘Let’s open this up. And if anyone steps over the line, we’ll slap them down.’ Which they did.”

Stevens thinks the safest bet is that companies stick to the three recommended descriptors. “That fourth category is a little unknown,” she says.

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

The FTC—as well as the world of gemology—has always been clear that a simulant, or simulated diamond, may look like a real gemstone but has a different chemical composition.

Moissanite, cubic zirconia, and YAG are examples of simulants. Partial-diamond hybrids are also considered simulants.

A lab-grown diamond is chemically the same as a natural diamond, but it’s grown by a machine rather than beneath the surface of the earth.

In its warning letters, the FTC charged that some marketers were deliberately fudging the difference between the two.

It warned companies to “avoid describing [simulants] in a way that may falsely imply that they have the same optical, physical, and chemical properties of mined diamonds.”

Among the descriptors the FTC singled out in its warning letters: lab-created DiamondAura and contemporary Nexus diamond. It has said that the terms lab-created and lab-grown should be used only for products that have “essentially the same optical, physical, and chemical properties as the stone named.”

For simulants, it recommends the terms ­imitation or simulated.

YOU CAN STILL CALL NATURAL DIAMONDS NATURAL DIAMONDS .

Forever One 3.69 cts. t.w. emerald colorless moissanite solitaire with accents engagement ring in 14k white gold; $3,289; Charles & Colvard; 877-202-5467; charlesandcolvard.com

Another common misconception is that the FTC is not allowing mined diamonds to be called natural or real. Those terms are still allowed, but only for diamonds that come from the earth.

The FTC did, however, warn that those terms can’t be used in a misleading context. “It would be deceptive to use the terms real, genuine, natural, or synthetic to imply that a lab-grown diamond (i.e., a ­product with essentially the same optical, ­physical, and chemical properties as a mined ­diamond) is not, in fact, an actual diamond,” it wrote.

DON’T SAY LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS ARE ECO-FRIENDLY. Pendant with 0.55 ct. t.w. lab-grown diamonds in 10k white gold; $999; Smiling Rocks

The FTC’s Green Guides have long warned against what it calls “general environmental benefit” claims, like eco-friendly and sustainable.

“The concern about general environmental benefit claims is that they are susceptible to all sorts of interpretations,” says FTC attorney Robert M. Frisby. “It is rare that a ­product can have an environmental benefit in all the ways that consumers might take away from a general claim.”

The FTC says that marketers must have a “reasonable basis” for any eco-claim they make. If a retailer talks about a diamond’s eco footprint, and it lacks data on that footprint—and the fact is, many retailers don’t even know where their stones are produced—that may be considered a misleading claim.

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DROP EARRINGS 3. Leto emerald-cut drop earrings with 1.99 cts. t.w. lab-created simulant Nexus Diamonds; $442; Diamond Nexus; 800-509-4990; diamondnexus.com 4. Cascade earrings in 18k white gold and white rhodium vermeil with 121 cts. t.w. lab-created diamonds; ÂŁ2,990 ($3,880); Anabela Chan; sales@anabelachan.com; anabelachan.com 5. Earrings with 17 cts. t.w. emerald-cut Diamond Foundry lab-created diamonds; price on request; Balmain x Diamond Foundry; anazaraly@balmain.fr; diamondfoundry.com NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

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6. Diama Bloom rings in 18k responsibly sourced rose, white, and yellow gold with 0.3 ct. t.w. Swarovski created diamonds; $799 each; Atelier Swarovski Fine Jewelry; 401-400-6233; atelierswarovski.com 7. 14k yellow gold 0.2 ct. t.w. lab-grown diamond crisscross ring; $1,059; Stuller; 800-877-7777; stuller.com 8. Stacking rings in 14k gold with 0.33 ct. t.w. lab-grown diamonds; $762 each; Overnight Mountings; 888-731-1111; overnightmountings.com

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PENDANTS 9. Diama Signature necklace in 18k responsibly sourced white gold with 1.06 cts. t.w. Swarovski created diamonds; $2,990; Atelier Swarovski Fine Jewelry; 401-400-6233; atelierswarovski.com 10. 14k yellow gold 0.25 ct. t.w. lab-grown diamond French-set bar necklace; $645; Stuller; 800-877-7777; stuller.com 11. 1.25 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamond cushion halo with round center pendant; $4,200; Love Earth; loveearthsales@fgoldman.com; loveearthjewelry.com

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STATEMENT RINGS 12. Ring in 18k white gold and rhodium vermeil with lab-grown diamonds and a freshwater pearl; ÂŁ1,590 ($2,060); Anabela Chan; sales@anabelachan.com; anabelachan.com 13. Double halo engagement ring in 14k yellow gold with 1.4 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamonds; $3,651; Overnight Mountings; 888-731-1111; overnightmountings.com 14. Diama Lace narrow ring in 18k responsibly sourced gold with 0.45 ct. t.w. Swarovski created diamonds; $1,250; Atelier Swarovski Fine Jewelry; 401-400-6233; atelierswarovski.com

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15. 18k white gold 4 cts. t.w. lab-created diamond tennis bracelet; $4,775; Brilliant Earth; 801-691-0952; brilliantearth.com 16. 14k white gold vintage-inspired bracelet with 2.1 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamonds; $1,701; Overnight Mountings; 888-731-1111; overnightmountings.com 17. Diama Signature bangle in 18k responsibly sourced white gold with 1.49 cts. t.w. Swarovski created diamonds; $3,990; Atelier Swarovski Fine Jewelry; 401-400-6233; atelierswarovski.com

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PRODUCT

SHOWCASE MAKE YOUR VOICE HEARD Quality Gold 500 Quality Blvd.

Fairfield, OH 45014 Tel: 513-942-7659 Diamond Dept.: 866-228-0099 Email: infor@qgold.com Website: qgold.com More than just gold.... We are a grower and prime manufacturer of lab-grown diamonds. GCAL or IGI certified. Round and fancies up to 5 cts. D–I, VVS1–I1. Thousands of stones at qgold.com/stonefinder.

CHOOSE THE BEST OF THE BEST IN YOUR INDUSTRY.

With a new look, new chances to win, and wider exposure, the 2020 JCK Jewelry Awards will be packed with more innovation and beauty than ever.

VOTE NOW THROUGH 1/15!

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Atelier Swarovski Tel: 401-339-2715 Email: peter.englehart@swarovski.com Website: atelierswarovski.com Atelier Swarovski fine jewelry collections represent refined elegance and Conscious Luxury. The collections embody a new spirit of design, compassion, and sustainability featuring Swarovski Created Diamonds, created gemstones, and genuine gemstones and gold.

Overnight 1400 Plaza Ave. New Hyde Park, NY 11743 Tel: 888-731-1111 Fax: 888-222-2121 tings.com Email: sales@overnightmountings.com s.com Website: overnightmountings.com nt rings can be ordered complete with All of Overnight’s engagement lab-grown diamonds! This includes the melee and certified center stones. Delivery on all complete engagement rings is five to seven days.

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Overnight 1400 Plaza Ave. New Hyde Park, NY 11743 Tel: 888-731-1111 Fax: 888-222-2121 Email: sales@overnightmountings.com Website: overnightmountings.com

Atelier Swaro Swarovski ski Tel: 401-339-2715 Email: peter.engleh peter.englehart@swarovski.com @swarovski.com Website: atelierswarovski.com atelierswar ski.com

Overnight has the largest selection of jewelry that can be ordered complete with lab-grown diamonds! With over 50,000 styles available, Overnight is the No. 1 leader in lab-grown diamond jewelry.

Atelier Swarovski fine jewelry collections represent refined elegance and Conscious Luxury. The collections embody a new spirit of design, compassion, and sustainability featuring Swarovski Created Diamonds, created gemstones, and genuine gemstones and gold.

DiamSpark Lab Grown Diamonds

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54 W. 47th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-221-4400 Fax: 212-221-4401 Email: labgrown@diamspark.com Website: diamspark.com DiamSpark is a family-run company with a long-standing history in the diamond trade, going back three generations. We deal in HPHT/CVD polished diamonds, manufactured in a world-class facility equipped with the most advanced technology.

22 W. 48th St., Suite 805 New York, NY 10028 Tel: 646-452-7046 m Email: info@smilingrocks.com Website: smilingrocks.com b d d and d jewelry l Smiling Rocks is a high-end laboratory-grown diamonds brand with a philanthropic approach, donating 10% of each purchase to four charity sectors. We offer beautiful everyday essentials and fashion-forward collections, some with color diamonds, in 10k, 14k, and 18k white, rose, and yellow gold.

Stuller Inc. Lab Grown Source 21 Drydock Ave., Suite 610E Boston, MA 02210 Tel: 801-357-9151 Email: jerry@labgrownsource.com jerry@labgrownsour Website: labgrownsource.com Lab Grown Source is free to join and is the largest trading platform for lab-grown diamonds. Search and sort through over 17,000 grown diamonds from the best suppliers around the world.

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302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com Stuller metals are SCS-certified for 100% recycled product. We also have the coveted Responsible Jewellery Council certification. And we back our metals with fast, reliable service to help you succeed. Visit stuller.com/metals.

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2020

JIS FEBRUARY | “THE ORIGINAL” FEBRUARY 9 - 11, 2020 | MIAMI BEACH CONVENTION CENTER The JIS February Show is the 2nd largest JIS show of the year and one of the largest jewelry trade shows in the Western Hemisphere between the holiday season and Valentine’s Day. Now taking place in February for 2020, it’s the ideal time to restock your store or move inventory to start the new year.

JIS APRIL | “THE NICHE” APRIL 4 - 6, 2020 | MIAMI BEACH CONVENTION CENTER A niche jewelry affair and one of the most intimate events in the industry—here’s where you can get an early start on shopping for Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, and wedding season.

JIS OCTOBER | “THE LARGEST” OCTOBER 14 - 17, 2020 | MIAMI BEACH CONVENTION CENTER The JIS October Show is the second largest jewely trade show in the Americas and the largest, most diverse JIS Show of the year. This is the jewelry event to stock your store and sell product before the holiday selling season and year’s end. Shop and array of international and specialty pavilions with products from fine to fashion, high-end to handmade.

To lea le arr n m ore o re about a b o u t J I S E ve v e n t s a n d h o w yo y o u ca c a n p a r t i ci cipate a att a an n u upcoming p c o min g show, sh o w, visit v isit JIS SSH S H OW.C O W. C OM O M . F o r q u e s t i o n s o r a s s i s t a n ce c e , co c o n t a ct c t JJIS IS Show S h o w directly d ire c tly at at + +1 1 ( 800 8 0 0 ) 8 4 0 - 5 6 1 2 o r j i s s h o w@ w @ re e d j e we w e l r yg y group.com ro u p .c o m

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2020

VOTING GUIDE JCKJEWELRYAWARDS.COM

CONTENTS 110 110 111 113 113 114 114 115 116 117

RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE! VOTE FOR A CHANCE TO WIN A LUXURY HOTEL STAY DURING JCK LAS VEGAS 2020 Select “The Best of the Best” in jewelry design. Vote for your favorite piece within each product category, plus help determine the grand prize winner, which will be featured on the cover of the spring 2020 issue of JCK magazine.

Voting is only open to jewelry store owners and employees.

VOTE NOW THROUGH 01/15/20 AT

JCKJEWELRYAWARDS.COM

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COLORED DIAMOND JEWELRY DIAMOND JEWELRY COLORED STONE JEWELRY LAB-GROWN DIAMOND AND/OR GEMSTONE JEWELRY PEARL JEWELRY TANZANITE JEWELRY PLATINUM JEWELRY GOLD JEWELRY SILVER JEWELRY CONTEMPORARY METAL JEWELRY

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MIXED METAL JEWELRY

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FASHION/BRIDGE JEWELRY

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PERSONALIZED JEWELRY (BEADS, CHARMS, MESSAGING, INSPIRATIONAL) MEN’S JEWELRY BEST PRICE POINT BEST EARRING DESIGN BEST BRACELET DESIGN BEST RING DESIGN BEST NECKLACE DESIGN BEST BRIDAL DESIGN BEST STATEMENT PIECE INDEX

120 121 122 124 126 128 130 132 133

2020

VOTING GUIDE

Welcome to the annual JCK Jewelry Awards Voting Guide!

O ver my 15 years with JCK, we’ve always strived to keep all aspects of our business as new and exciting as possible. This year, we are proud to present the new JCK Jewelry Awards, encompassing the retailer-selected Jewelers’ Choice Awards you’ve always known, plus new awards from our editorial team and some of the industry’s most important jewelry business influencers!

The name may be different, but the quality of the entries remains. We are thrilled to showcase some of the finest jewelry designs in the industry, and to continue to host the only jewelry awards chosen by retailers themselves—you! Every vote counts, and voting for your favorites is easy: 1.

2.

3.

4.

Review the 2020 Voting Guide on the following pages.

Circle/note your favorites within each product category and price point.

Log on to JCKJewelryAwards.com and place your votes using this Voting Guide as a reference.

Select your ultimate favorite. When finished voting, please go to the Best of Show tab and select your overall “favorite among favorites.” The piece with the most votes this round will be honored as our grand prize winner and featured on the cover of JCK magazine’s spring 2020 issue.

Place your votes by January 15 to make your choices count!

MARK SMELZER,, PUBLISHER

All first-place winners will be featured in JCK magazine, and the first-, second-, and third-place winners will be showcased in our “Best of the Best” supplement to the spring issue of JCK. Many companies have used their wins to promote their products in print, online, and at trade shows throughout the year. We’re delighted to provide them with this opportunity and to provide you, our readers, with hundreds of stunning and inspirational pieces to consider.

Help us name “The Best of the Best” in jewelry design by placing your votes today!

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

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2020

VOTING GUIDE

COLORED DIAMOND JEWELRY OVER $10,000

Neon Gems • $15,000

Mizrahi of Beverly Hills • $187,500

Norman Silverman Diamonds • $91,000

Setu Doshi • $22,500

Novel Collection • $48,015

DIAMOND JEWELRY $2,500 & UNDER Lika Behar Collection • $2,160

Gold and Diamond • $199,999

Gabriel & Co. • $1,445

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Shy Creation • $990

Gold Star Jewellery • $1,932

DIAMOND JEWELRY OVER $2,500

Setu Doshi • $5,250

Gabriel & Co. • $8,140

Gold Star Jewellery • $3,867

Gabriel & Co. • $11,640

Gold Star Jewellery • $8,465

Gabriel & Co. • $1,420

Anye Designs • $1,600

Mason-Kay Jade • $2,300

Samuel B. • $929

COLORED STONE JEWELRY $2,500 & UNDER

Stuller • $1,059

RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE! YOU COULD WIN A LUXURY HOTEL STAY DURING JCK LAS VEGAS 2020

JCKJEWELRYAWARDS.COM Denny Wong Designs • $1,800

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2020

VOTING GUIDE

COLORED STONE JEWELRY $2,501 – $10,000

Cirari by Color Jewels • $9,275

Nicole Barr • $7,500

Gabriel & Co. • $3,950

Dorian & Rose • $6,500

Jye’s International • $9,888

Stanislav Petrov • $21,000

Graziela • $23,575

COLORED STONE JEWELRY OVER $10,000

Lika Behar Collection • $10,950

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Amden Jewelry • $24,900

LAB-GROWN DIAMOND AND/ OR GEMSTONE JEWELRY ALL PRICES Stuller • $1,194

Smiling Rocks • $1,749

Gabriel & Co. • $750

Shy Creation • $480

PEARL JEWELRY $2,500 & UNDER

Alamea Hawaii • $1,800

Lika Behar Collection • $2,420

PEARL JEWELRY OVER $2,500 Rosa Van Parys Jewelry • $21,840

Yoko London • $22,000

Mastoloni • $2,705

Jye’s International • $20,300 NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

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TANZANITE JEWELRY ALL PRICE POINTS Ande Jewelry • $17,418

Ricardo Basta Fine Jewelry • $13,000

PLATINUM JEWELRY $10,000 & UNDER Stuller • $2,556

Parlé Jewelry Designs • $9,995

Gabriel & Co. • $6,665

Malo Creations • $3,999

PLATINUM JEWELRY OVER $10,000 Gabriel & Co. • $11,785

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Michael Schofield & Co. • $58,125

Schaffrath • $49,000

Jye’s International • $24,600

Rahaminov Diamonds • $415,000

Marika Desert Gold • $2,300

Gabriel & Co. • $1,050

Alamea Hawaii • $1,500

Frederick Goldman • $1,855

GOLD JEWELRY $2,500 & UNDER

L. Klein • $1,790

GOLD JEWELRY OVER $2,500 (CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE) Tekin Seyrekoğlu Jewelry • $2,176

Veniroe • $9,700

Nicole Barr • $7,500

Gabriel & Co. • $4,050

Alamea Hawaii • $2,800 NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

115

2020

VOTING GUIDE

GOLD JEWELRY OVER $2,500 (CONTINUED) Susan Gordon Jewelry • $19,500

Alwand Vahan Jewelry • $35,000

SILVER JEWELRY $1,000 & UNDER Jye’s International • $7,300

116

Nicole Barr • $250

Belle Étoile • $495

Gabriel & Co. • $400

Zina Sterling Silver • $500

Samuel B. • $879

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

Alamea Hawaii • $450

SILVER JEWELRY OVER $1,000

Nadri Jewelry • $2,700

Stanislav Petrov • $7,000

Frederick Goldman • $1,095

Ricardo Basta Fine Jewelry • $5,800

PiyaRo by Aiya Designs • $1,999

Stuller • $327

Thorsten Rings • $300

Thorsten Rings • $500

Frederick Goldman • $895

CONTEMPORARY METAL JEWELRY ALL PRICE POINTS

Thorsten Rings • $250

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JCKJEWELRYAWARDS.COM Frederick Goldman • $1,595

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

117

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VOTING GUIDE

MIXED METAL JEWELRY $1,000 & UNDER Lika Behar Collection • $790

Samuel B. • $149

MIXED METAL JEWELRY OVER $1,000 Just Jules • $13,300

Maui Divers of Hawaii • $395

118

Frederick Goldman • $1,095

Burcak Tolan • $12,000

Lika Behar Collection • $1,700

Alwand Vahan Jewelry • $3,750

PiyaRo by Aiya Designs • $2,249

Rahaminov Diamonds • $640,000

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

FASHION/ BRIDGE JEWELRY $500 & UNDER Belle Étoile • $495

Ania Haie • $79

Nadri Jewelry • $298

Ary D’Po • $179

FASHION/ BRIDGE JEWELRY OVER $500 Alamea Hawaii • $800

Nelson Jewellery USA • $6,350

Lika Behar Collection • $3,150

Samuel B. • $529 NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

119

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VOTING GUIDE

PERSONALIZED JEWELRY

(BEADS, CHARMS, MESSAGING, INSPIRATIONAL)

ALL PRICE POINTS Stuller • S - $284 | A - $283

Gabriel & Co. • $740

Kin & Pebble • $150

Mitchell K. Jewelry • $6,000

MEN’S JEWELRY $1,000 & UNDER

Samuel B. • $579

120

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

Thorsten Rings • $1,000

Art & Gems Jewelers • $899

Malo Creations • $999

Maui Divers of Hawaii • $895

MEN’S JEWELRY OVER $1,000

Gabriel & Co. • $1,725

Stuller • $1,284

Parlé Jewelry Designs • $14,995

Rahaminov Diamonds • $76,000

Ricardo Basta Fine Jewelry • $20,000

Gabriel & Co. • $175

Belle Étoile • $425

BEST PRICE POINT $500 & UNDER

Alamea Hawaii • $350

Lika Behar Collection • $480 NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

121

2020

VOTING GUIDE

BEST PRICE POINT $501 – $1,000 Stuller • $924

Gabriel & Co. • $1,000

Belle Étoile • $695

Lika Behar Collection • $810

Setu Doshi • $875

Asher Jewelry • $865

Maui Divers of Hawaii • $595

BEST EARRING DESIGN $5,000 & UNDER Gabriel & Co. • $1,255

122

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

Shy Creation • $680

Alamea Hawaii • $2,250

I. Reiss • $2,125

Gabriel & Co. • $4,545

Veniroe • $2,680

Lika Behar Collection • $4,070

Nelson Jewellery USA • $3,000

Liven Co. • $9,998

Setu Doshi • $9,350

Neon Gems • $9,000

Parlé Jewelry Designs • $9,395

Jye’s International • $9,888

Cirari by Color Jewels • $5,500

Gumuchian • $7,000

BEST EARRING DESIGN $5,001 – $10,000

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

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2020

VOTING GUIDE

BEST EARRING DESIGN OVER $10,000 Norman Silverman Diamonds • $21,000

Dallas Prince Designs • $18,995

Ricardo Basta Fine Jewelry • $17,000

Jye’s International • $28,500

BEST BRACELET DESIGN $2,500 & UNDER

Shy Creation • $1,340

124

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

Gabriel & Co. • $2,365

I. Reiss • $2,125

Madestones • $790

Samuel B. • $629

BEST BRACELET DESIGN OVER $2,500 Lester Lampert • $5,000–$10,000

Gabriel & Co. • $5,820

Yael Designs • $6,885

Shy Creation • $8,100

Dimitrios Exclusive • $3,000

Jye’s International • $7,600

Norman Silverman Diamonds • $700,000

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125

2020

VOTING GUIDE

BEST RING DESIGN $2,500 & UNDER

Alamea Hawaii • $2,250

Vinarii • $2,370

Shy Creation • $1,640

Brilliant Earth • $2,490

Maui Divers of Hawaii • $1,495

Izi Creations • $2,900

Gabriel & Co. • $3,290

Shy Creation • $4,900

Setu Doshi • $3,950

BEST RING DESIGN $2,501 – $5,000

Malo Creations • $2,999

126

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

BEST RING DESIGN $5,001 – $10,000 Heavenly Vices Fine Jewelry • $3,250

Anye Designs • $2,600

Dilamani • $9,000

Prince Jewelers • $6,000

Brilliant Earth • $9,980

Ande Jewelry • $9,999

Yael Designs • $7,074

Parlé Jewelry Designs • $9,395

Mizrahi of Beverly Hills • $175,555

Norman Silverman Diamonds • $229,740

BEST RING DESIGN OVER $10,000

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JCKJEWELRYAWARDS.COM Novel Collection • $45,000

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

127

2020

VOTING GUIDE

BEST NECKLACE DESIGN $2,500 & UNDER

128

Gabriel & Co. • $1,375

Ande Jewelry • $2,499

Nina Xouris Collaborative • $2,100

Shy Creation • $860

Alamea Hawaii • $2,450

Kabarovsky Jewellery House • $700

Maui Divers of Hawaii • $1,395

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

BEST NECKLACE DESIGN OVER $2,500 Malakan Diamond • $21,078

Parlé Jewelry Designs • $9,995

Joden World Resources • $9,880

Stuller • $12,000

Gabriel & Co. • $21,265

Norman Silverman Diamonds • $300,000

Joden World Resources • $62,500

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129

2020

VOTING GUIDE

BEST BRIDAL DESIGN $2,500 & UNDER

Frederick Goldman • $2,309

Stuller • $2,436

Gabriel & Co. • $2,500

Brilliant Earth • $1,690

Elegance Jewellery International • $2,199

Gabriel & Co. • $3,400

Frederick Goldman • $3,000

BEST BRIDAL DESIGN $2,501 – $5,000

CrownRing • $4,089

130

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

Anye Designs • $3,500

BEST BRIDAL DESIGN $5,001 – $10,000 Gabriel & Co. • $6,690

Brilliant Earth • $9,980

CrownRing • $5,200

Liberty Diamonds • $8,800

BEST BRIDAL DESIGN OVER $10,000 Setu Doshi • $13,350

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Marisa Perry Atelier • $268,000

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NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

131

2020

VOTING GUIDE

BEST STATEMENT PIECE $10,000 & OVER Stuller • $10,000

Mizrahi of Beverly Hills • $975,000

Staryou • $1,900,000

Norman Silverman Diamonds • $126,000

Neon Gems • $45,000

Gabriel & Co. • $50,030

Jye’s International • $122,000

Rahaminov Diamonds • $296,000

Marisa Perry Atelier • $86,500

132

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

INDEX Alamea Hawaii ������������������������������������ 113, 115, 116, 119, 121, 123, 126, 128

Madestones�������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 124

Alwand Vahan Jewelry ��������������������������������������������������������������� 116, 118

Malakan Diamond ���������������������������������������������������������������������������� 129

Amden Jewelry����������������������������������������������������������������������������������112

Malo Creations �������������������������������������������������������������������� 114, 120, 126

Ande Jewelry ����������������������������������������������������������������������114, 127, 128

Marika Desert Gold ����������������������������������������������������������������������������115

Ania Haie�������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������119

Marisa Perry Atelier ��������������������������������������������������������������������131, 132

Anye Designs ���������������������������������������������������������������������� 111, 127, 130

Mason-Kay Jade �������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 111

Art & Gems Jewelers�������������������������������������������������������������������������120

Mastoloni ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������113

Ary D’Po ��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������119

Maui Divers of Hawaii�������������������������������������������� 118, 120, 122, 126, 128

Asher Jewelry����������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 122

Michael Schofield & Co� ���������������������������������������������������������������������114

Belle Étoile �������������������������������������������������������������������� 116, 119, 121, 122

Mitchell K� Jewerly ���������������������������������������������������������������������������120

Brilliant Earth ����������������������������������������������������������������126, 127, 130, 131

Mizrahi of Beverly Hills ���������������������������������������������������������110, 127, 132

Burcak Tolan �������������������������������������������������������������������������������������118

Nadri Jewelry ������������������������������������������������������������������������������ 117, 119

Cirari by Color Jewels �����������������������������������������������������������������112, 123

Nelson Jewellery USA����������������������������������������������������������������� 119, 123

CrownRing ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������130, 131

Neon Gems�������������������������������������������������������������������������� 110, 123, 132

Dallas Prince Designs ����������������������������������������������������������������������� 124

Nicole Barr ��������������������������������������������������������������������������� 112, 115, 116

Denny Wong Designs������������������������������������������������������������������������� 111

Nina Xouris Collaborative ����������������������������������������������������������������� 128

Dilamani ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 127

Norman Silverman Diamonds �������������������������� 110, 124, 125, 127, 129, 132

Dimitrios Exclusive ��������������������������������������������������������������������������� 125

Novel Collection ������������������������������������������������������������������������� 110, 127

Dorian & Rose ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������112

Parlé Jewelry Designs ���������������������������������������������114, 121, 123, 127, 129

Elegance Jewellery International ������������������������������������������������������ 130

PiyaRo by Aiya Designs ��������������������������������������������������������������� 117, 118

Frederick Goldman ��������������������������������������������������������� 115, 117, 118, 130

Prince Jewelers �������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 127

Gabriel & Co� ��������������������������� 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 116, 120, 121, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 128, 129, 130, 131, 132

Rahaminov Diamonds���������������������������������������������������� 115, 118, 121, 132

Gold and Diamond �����������������������������������������������������������������������������110

Rosa Van Parys Jewelry ���������������������������������������������������������������������113

Gold Star Jewellery ��������������������������������������������������������������������� 110, 111

Samuel B� ���������������������������������������������������������� 111, 116, 118, 119, 120, 124

Graziela ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������112

Schaffrath �����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������115

Gumuchian ��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 123

Setu Doshi �������������������������������������������������������� 110, 111, 122, 123, 126, 131

Heavenly Vices Fine Jewelry ������������������������������������������������������������ 127

Shy Creation��������������������������������������������� 110, 113, 122, 124, 125, 126, 128

I� Reiss��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 123, 124

Smiling Rocks ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������113

Izi Creations ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 126

Stanislav Petrov ��������������������������������������������������������������������������112, 117

Joden World Resources �������������������������������������������������������������������� 129

Staryou��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 132

Just Jules ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������118

Stuller ������������������������������������� 111, 113, 114, 117, 120, 121, 122, 129, 130, 132

Jye’s International �������������������������������112, 113, 115, 116, 123, 124, 125, 132

Susan Gordon Jewelry �����������������������������������������������������������������������116

Kabarovsky Jewellery House ������������������������������������������������������������ 128

Tekin Seyrekoğlu Jewelry ������������������������������������������������������������������115

Kin & Pebble �������������������������������������������������������������������������������������120

Thorsten Rings ��������������������������������������������������������������������������� 117, 120

L� Klein ����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������115

Veniroe���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������115, 123

Lester Lampert ��������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 125

Vinarii ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 126

Liberty Diamonds ������������������������������������������������������������������������������131

Yael Designs ������������������������������������������������������������������������������ 125, 127

Lika Behar Collection���������������������������� 110, 112, 113, 118, 119, 121, 122, 123

Yoko London��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������113

Liven Co� ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������ 123

Zina Sterling Silver ����������������������������������������������������������������������������116

Ricardo Basta Fine Jewelry��������������������������������������������� 114, 117, 121, 124

This company index is published as a convenience and not as part of the JCK Jewelry Awards Contract. Every care has been taken to index companies correctly.

No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page numbers, or failure to insert or include information.

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

133

RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE!

VOTE FOR A CHANCE TO WIN A LUXURY HOTEL STAY DURING JCK LAS VEGAS 2020 Select “The Best of the Best” in jewelry design. Vote for your favorite piece within each product category, plus help determine the grand prize winner, which will be featured on the spring 2020 cover of JCK magazine.

Voting is only open to jewelry store owners and employees.

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the industry authority

135

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

THE ESSENTIAL JEWELRY GUIDE

the vault

LIGHT & SHADE

The gold setting has movement, which posed challenges when setting such large, valuable stones, Gabriella says, as did finding the right shade of pink to surround the diamonds. “The color had to be right,” she says. “I didn’t want the enamel to be more prominent than the diamonds—so we ended up making a color that’s never existed before.”

FOR THE FEST Before Patti Wong, chair of Sotheby’s Diamonds, approached Gabriella to collaborate with the house, the designer had created an entire line inspired by the color-drenched Holi festival.

“I think the pieces really appealed to her,” Gabriella recalls. “She specifically asked if I would create a high-jewelry version of the earrings for the capsule collection.”

FESTIVAL OF BRIGHTS

HOLI DAY MAGIC The earrings feature two fancy colored yellow diamonds (5.01 ct. and 5.03 ct., respectively), six 0.6 ct.–1.7 ct. round-cut brilliant diamonds, pavé-set pink sapphires, and enamel— all mounted in an 18k rose and 18k yellow gold setting.

SOTHEBY’S DIAMONDS, THE legendary auction house’s retail j­ewelry division, recently tapped London-based Lily Gabriella Fine Jewellery to create a capsule collection using extraordinary diamonds sourced and cut by renowned diamantaire Diacore. Designer Lily Gabriella’s playful Holi earrings were i­nspired by the Hindu Holi festival of color and include twin fancy colored yellow diamonds. Gabriella says she willfully ignored the sky-high value of the gems when designing the earrings so as not to be unduly influenced by it.

“I decided to create something that was modern and vibrant,” she says, “but would still make the stones really pop.” —EMILI VESILIND JCKONLINE.COM

the vault

GOLD

136

HOT STOCK TIP 18k yellow gold earrings with 8 mm freshwater pearls and 0.06 ct. t.w. bezel-set brilliantcut diamonds; $3,600; katkim finejewelry.com

HOOP TALK The Grande Pearl Oasis earrings by Los Angeles–based fine jewelry brand KatKim suspend a single freshwater pearl between two sculptural 18k gold hoops to create an edgy design that’s minimal yet anything but boring. —EMILI VESILIND

TREND GAME

WHAT ABOUT FOB?

Angel Wing fob necklace in 14k yellow gold with black onyx; $4,830; Dudley VanDyke; lauren@ megamegaprojects.com; dudleyvandyke.com

18k yellow gold Star fob with moonstone and 0.06 ct. t.w. diamonds; $5,200; Pamela Zamore; info@ pamelazamore.com; pamelazamore.com

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

14k yellow gold, black amber, and diamond necklace; $2,935; Michael & Markus; office@ michaelmarkus.eu; michaelmarkus.eu

In the Victorian era, men wore fobs—decorative ­metal pieces that sometimes doubled as seals and were often tipped with gems such as carnelian and onyx—as ­ornamental c­ ounterweights for their pocket watches. In recent ­seasons, a ­handful of contemporary fine jewelry ­designers have ­reinterpreted fobs and chains as pendant n ­ ecklaces that heavily reference their ­Victorian ­inspirations. The vibe (and ­craftsmanship) of these new fobs may be Old World. But when hanging around a neck, the look feels fresh, and even a little daring. —EV M. SPALTEN’S SWEET GEMDROP COLLECTION! SEE jckonline.com/topics/gold FOR THAT AND MORE.

JCKONLINE.COM

the vault

COLORED STONES

137

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

JADE OF HONOR NADINE AYSOY WON the U.K. New Designer of the Year award in 2018, but isn’t yet well-known in the United States—a situation that surely won’t last. In a sea of ­casual-feeling fine jewelry, the London-based Aysoy’s collections are refreshingly ­sophisticated, even royal-feeling in their ordered elegance. For her Celeste series, the designer bejewels jade discs—her base element—with deeply saturated sapphires and tsavorite, then boosts the sparkle factor with white diamonds. Glamorous yet wearable, these mini works of art transcend fashion’s fickle tides. —EMILI VESILIND

Celeste earrings in 18k white gold with 1.22 cts. t.w. white round-cut diamonds, 2.3 cts. t.w. blue sapphires, and eight 11 mm–14 mm jade discs; $13,300; Nadine Aysoy; info@aysoy design.com; nadineaysoy.com

Celeste earrings in 18k rose gold with 0.77 ct. t.w. pink sapphires and 9.75 cts. t.w. jade; $4,100

HOT STOCK TIP

ENTER GALACTIC

Celeste ring in 18k yellow gold with 0.04 ct. t.w. roundcut white diamonds, 0.49 ct. t.w. yellow sapphires, and one 12 mm white jade disc; $3,300

Celeste ring in 18k yellow gold with 0.14 ct. t.w. white diamonds, 0.59 ct. t.w. tsavorite, and a 23.65 ct. jade disc; $4,500 JCKONLINE.COM

We’re over the rainbow for jewelry brand Aisha Baker’s new Galaxy earrings, which depict rainbows and clouds colored by the pastel hues of opals, sapphires, and aquamarines. Based in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, designer Aisha Baker, who partners on her namesake collection with design director Hoonik Chang, says the otherworldly look was inspired by “a princess from the galaxy who sees our world through the lens of a prism.” Color us smitten. —EV Galaxy earrings in 18k white gold with 0.25 ct. t.w. diamonds and 3.96 cts. t.w. opals, yellow sapphires, aquamarines, pink sapphires, and briolette-cut white topaz; $11,200; aishabaker.com

LARKSPUR & HAWK’S HOME COLLECTION! SEE jckonline.com/topics/coloredstones FOR THAT AND MORE.

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the industry authority

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

THE GLOBAL GUIDE TO MARKETS

Show biz MOOD SWINGS The September VicenzaOro fair showcased a slew of seasonal jewelry sensations

BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

W

E’D LIKE TO tell you about the trends at ­VicenzaOro, which ran Sept. 7–11 in Vicenza, Italy, but we’re afraid of incurring the wrath of Lauren Kulchinsky Levison, the co-owner and curator of high-end Hamptons, N.Y., jewelry retailer Mayfair Rocks.

“I f--king hate the word trend,” said Levison, appearing on a panel titled, ahem, “Trendvision J­ ewellery + Forecasting,” alongside jewelry blogger/Instagram ­influencer Katerina Perez; self-described futurist Paola De Luca, known for her annual Trendbook; Alba ­Cappellieri, director of the Museo del Gioiello in Vicenza; and Vogue contributing editor Lynn Yaeger. “If you are selling high-level jewelry,” explained Levison, “you want to be saying words like heritage and timeless.”

As for color, the mood—to use one of Levison’s suggested subs for trend—was decidedly blue. Local brand Nanis, headquartered in Vicenza, added milky-smooth aquamarine to its brushed-gold Dancing in the Rain collection. Lapis was one of the top sellers for Torre del Greco, Italy–based Evanueva. New York City’s Cirari reported “doing very well” with Ethiopian opals, tanzanites, and sapphires. Les

­Georgettes by Altesse, the customizable French fashion jewelry company, pointed to the popularity of its reversible deep-blue and mustard leather cuff.

Houston-based Sutra Jewels stunned buyers with Mozambican paraiba pieces that shimmered like pools of crystal-clear blue water.

According to the German-born beach-loving designer Tamara Comolli, “blue topaz in all shades never goes out of fashion.”

Also having a moment (another proposed alternative for the dreaded T-word): rose gold. French label Marie Mas debuted an 18k rose gold Wave ring studded with undulating diamond pins. Every piece in Parisian designer Lydia Courteille’s La Vie en Rose collection—which mixed soft blush-toned gems such as morganite with sexy black ­diamonds—was set in rose gold. Comolli, whose jewels come in all colors of gold, confirms that customers are definitely thinking pink: “Rose gold wins over white gold,” she says. Just don’t call it a you-know-what.

JCKONLINE.COM

Candy India Dream pendant in 18k rose gold with 0.44 ct. t.w. sapphires, rubies, and tsavorite; $7,720; Tamara Comolli; lk@ tamaracomolli.com; tamaracomolli.com

DORIAN & ROSE

The Jewelry Industry’s

winter oasis is Wednesday, February 5 Ð Saturday, February 8, 2020 J W M A R R I O T T T U C S O N S T A R R PA S S R E S O R T & S PA LESS THAN 10 MINUTES FROM DOWNTOWN TUCSON

A C U R AT E D E X P E R I E N C E F O R RECONNE C T ING, UNC OVE RING T RE NDS AND E X P LO R I NG U N I Q U E D E S I G N S , T E C H N O LO G Y, LO O S E G E M S TO N E S , L A B - G R OW N D I A M O N D S & M O R E D U R I N G T U C S O N G E M W E E K S .

PETRA CLASS JEWELRY

R E G I S T E R TO DAY AT

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EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES & TECHNOLOGY

TOOL TIME VIDEO STAR Your youngest social-minded customers are on TikTok. Here’s what you need to know.

I

BY EMILI VESILIND

F YOU’VE RECENTLY found yourself asking, “What’s TikTok?” you’re not alone. The Chinese-owned social media app’s profile has been steadily rising since it debuted in the United States last year. Here’s the short answer: TikTok is a smartphone app for making and sharing videos and reportedly has more than 500 million users worldwide. It’s also the buzziest social media network since Snapchat.

WHAT MAKES TIKTOK DIFFERENT

HERO IMAGES/GETTY

Like Instagram’s Stories, TikTok allows users to create and post short videos that play vertically. But its tools—all the bells and whistles you can add—are more plentiful, and way more fun. TikTok videos can be souped up with a cool soundtrack (a single tap brings you to a roster of popular songs categorized by music type), a filter that rains gold flecks, or one in a zillion available GIFs and stickers. In TikTok, video editing feels a lot like video gaming.

The all-around feel is super casual. Its home page is a noisy jumble of trending videos—all from people you don’t personally know and maybe don’t even follow. On Facebook and Instagram, we’re siloed into our hand-picked stables of friends and acquaintances. But on TikTok, watching strangers do “hashtag challenges”—videos that respond to a hashtagged theme—and “duets” (singing side by side with a person in an existing video) is half the fun.

WHY IT HAS POTENTIAL FOR BRANDS Is TikTok worth the effort for brands? There’s no guarantee with social media, but all signs point to: probably.

Teenear, a young artist whose song “I Like It” is a

Some marketing experts say it could be the next “it” platform for reaching young, social-minded consumers. soundtrack choice on TikTok, says she likes the app because “it’s a platform to market to your audience in an organic way. TikTok allows space for anyone…to make their own mini-video and get their message across.”

Big brands are already scoping it out, securing partnerships with TikTok, and/or running limited-time campaigns.

Both Guess and Chipotle have sponsored hashtag challenges.

Earlier this year TikTok announced a multiyear partnership with the National Football League that will see third-party brands sponsoring content on the NFL’s TikTok account.

Severine Ferrari, founder and editor of proposal-planning site Engagement 101, was one of the first jewelry industry insiders to jump on the TikTok train. “I do think there’s an opportunity for brands to explore on TikTok, with posts that fit the platform visually…and [also fit] its humorous tone,” she says. Ferrari points to the platform’s relatively egalitarian playing field as a bonus for smaller brands. “Even if you don’t have a large number of fans, the algorithm picks up popular videos.” In other words, if your video’s hot, you could ­become the coolest thing on TikTok.

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‌THE GOODS

WHO, WHAT, WEARABLE

FITBIT VERSA LITE Lightweight, comfortable, and easy to use. That’s an alluring ­trifecta of traits when it comes to smartwatches made to be worn while working out. And it aptly describes the Versa Lite— the ­latest connected watch from Fitbit. The feather-light device, which features an anodized ­aluminum case topped with Corning’s Gorilla Glass 3, wears like a slim sports watch; you almost forget it’s on your wrist. But underneath its no-frills design and simple, one-touch control is a Bluetooth-enabled watch packed with some very useful tools. —EMILI VESILIND

What it does: The Versa Lite tracks steps, distance, calories burned, female health details, and sleep stages. It also notifies users of texts and calls along with alerts from hundreds of compatible apps, should you want them.

Additionally, it’s water-resistant and comes preloaded with more than 15 goal-based exercise modes.

What we liked: The watch is available in a Skittles bag worth of colorways: white with silver aluminum, lilac with silver aluminum, mulberry, and marina blue (a rich blue). And it’s priced so reasonably that some people might be tempted to nab one to match every pair of Lululemon yoga pants they own.

Best features: The entry-level smartwatch combines Fitbit’s excellent fitness tracking with a notification system that’s every bit as reliable as the brand’s more full-featured Versa original smartwatch. Bonus: You can customize the Versa Lite’s face by choosing from 500-plus designs. ($159.95; fitbit.com)

SUPPLY IN DEMAND

DESKTOP METAL STUDIO SYSTEM Third-generation jeweler Christian Tse’s marketing company, Formula 3D, has partnered with Desktop Metal to debut the Desktop Metal Studio System—a 3D metal printer that enables designers to print metal jewelry faster, and without the need for special ventilation and facilities, dedicated operators, or expensive tooling. The three-part system includes a printer, debinder, and furnace and integrates with Desktop Metal’s cloud-based software. The coordination makes for a seamless workflow, from digital file to finished jewelry piece. —EV The Desktop Metal Studio System is available for lease starting at around $6,000 per month, or for purchase at $160,000.

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

SIMON’S ONLINE-ONLY OUTLET MALL! SEE jckonline.com/topics/technology FOR THAT AND MORE. JCKONLINE.COM

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

143

Arch Crown Inc. Costar Imports, Inc. Tel: 650-389-6969 Email: info@costarimports.com Website: costarimports.com After customer demand, we have taken our most popular stackable wedding bands and introduced matching stackable bangle bracelets with our new locking mechanisms! These bracelets can be customized with diamonds and birthstones.

460 Hillside Ave. Hillside, NJ 07205 Tel: 800-526-8353 Fax: 973-731-2228 Email: info@archcrown.com Website: archcrown.com Preprinted Tags and Labels for Holiday/Seasonal Promotions.

Turn browsers into buyers with preprinted tags and labels. Ideal for identifying precious and semiprecious jewelry, new items, special sales, price reductions, and seasonal clearances. Ask about our assortment special—100 styles to choose from!

Cirari by Color Jewels 36 W. 44th St., Suite 900 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-764-2823 Fax: 212-354-8488 Email: info@cirari.com Website: cirari.com Cirari is a leading designer and manufacturer of gemstone and diamond jewelry. Our collection is finely crafted with exquisite style and competitive prices to meet every woman’s demand at every stage of her life. We are committed to providing superior quality and craftsmanship in each item.

Stuller Inc. 302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com This holiday season rely on Stuller for all of your packaging and giftwrapping needs. Our vast in-stock inventory has you covered all season long. Visit stuller.com/packaginganddisplays.

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Le Vian® Tel: 877-2LEVIAN/516-466-7200 Fax: 516-466-7201 Email: eddielevian@levian.com Website: levian.com Le Vian® toasts the 20th anniversary of its exclusive Chocolate Diamonds® with its latest bejeweled confection, Chocolate Souffle™ featuring a delicious mix of Chocolate Diamonds® and Nude Diamonds™, its 2020 Diamonds of the Year.

Hoover & Strong 10700 Trade Road North Chesterfield, VA 23236 Tel: 800-759-9997 Fax: 800-616-9997 m Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Website: hooverandstrong.com Hoover & Strong has over 650 die-struck bands including hundreds of new classic, fancy, multi-tone, and diamond styles!

All bands are Made in the USA with Harmony Recycled Precious Metals. Visit hooverandstrong.com to see all our products.

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Gabriel & Co 545 W. 45th St., Third Floor New York, NY 10036 Phone: 212-519-1400 Fax: 646-273-1611 Email: lverona@gabrielny.com Website: gabrielny.com Discover the iconic Bujukan collection inspired by the Balinese art of persuasion.

Delicate, yet fresh and fun, it’s the perfect gift or self-purchase and might just be the start of a new love affair! Shop online or find a retail store near you at gabrielny.com.

Effy Jewelry Website: effyjewelry.com The stars align brilliantly in Effy’s celestially inspired 14k white gold necklace. Classic pavé-set diamonds double as convenient conversation starters in a piece that dazzles in any environment.

Royal Chain Group 2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Fax: 212-730-7616 Email: sales@royalchain.com Website: royalchain.com Royal Chain is known for its fabulous gold, with over 40 years of experience. Due to increased demand, we’ve recently released a new brochure all about men’s jewelry. Shop from new men’s looks and request an in-store copy by emailing marketing@royalchain.com.

Nelson Jewellery USA Inc. 631 S. Olive St., Suite 300 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-489-3323 Fax: 213-489-1832 Email: info@nelsonus.com Website: nelsonus.com Nelson’s tradition of creating unique and timelessly elegant fine jewelry continues. The diamond pendant pictured was a finalist in the 2016 Jewelers’ Choice Awards’ Best Price Point Under $500 category.

Midas Chain 151 Veterans Drive Northvale, NJ 07647 Tel: 201-244-1150 Fax: 201-244-1151 Email: sales@midaschain.com Website: midaschain.com Imagine a piece that effortlessly enamors customers across every demographic. That’s exactly what Midas Chain crafted with this pair of 14k yellow gold graduated bead earrings. The lightweight dangle earrings secure on post backs. MSRP: $645

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

Earstuds USA 5580 LBJ Freeway, Suite 525 Dallas, TX 75240 Tel: 972-458-2076 Fax: 972-458-1412 Email: david@earstudsusa.com Website: earstudsusa.com For customers who crave individuality, glamour, and style, these elegant fancy yellow radiant-cut drop earrings are perfect. Mounted in 18k yellow and white gold, the earrings are set with 6.03 cts. t.w. radiants and 0.8 ct. t.w. round brilliant G VS diamonds.

JCKONLINE.COM

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE Garmin International Ltd.

145

Herco

1200 E. 151st St. Olathe, KS 66062 Tel: 913-440-1422 min.com Email: media.relations@garmin.com Website: garmin.com/marq

833 Market St., 10th Floor San Francisco, CA 94103 Tel: 415-543-1580/800-864-0767 Fax: 415-398-3699 Email: info@herco.com Website: herco.com

estined for those who aspire to the lifestyles The MARQ collection is destined Garmin has redefined over decades of innovation. These extraordinary luxury modern tool watches are forged from their DNA, and authentic in every detail.

Herco offers a wide variety of 14k and 18k yellow, white, and pink gold jewelry. We also carry many items in 22k and 24k gold, platinum, silver, titanium, palladium, and stainless steel.

Rand & Paseka Mfg. Co. Inc.

Artistry Ltd.

10 Hanse Ave. Freeport, NY 11520 Tel: 800-229-0006 Fax: 516-867-0230 Email: sales@randpaseka.com Website: randpaseka.com Rand & Paseka has the most extensive line of religious jewelry found anywhere, all made in the USA. This beautiful 14k cross with 0.05pts diamonds is available in yellow, white, and rose gold. MSRP: $245

Jewelers Mutual Group 24 Jewelers Park Drive Neenah, WI 54956 Tel: 800-336-5642, ext. 2118 Email: sales@jminsure.com Website: jewelersmutual.com/benefits jewelersmutual.com/ben Try our Program Benefits Calculator and learn how JM Care Plan™, JM Shipping Solution™, and Jeweler’s Cut® Link can help you grow revenue and cut costs.

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8272 Lincoln Ave. Skokie, IL 60077 Tel: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Email: orders@artistrylimited.com Website: artistrylimited.com Elegant and timeless...14k white gold and diamond pendants. Clover pendant with 0.46 ct. t.w. diamonds, 16–18-inch chain, MSRP: $1,710. Teardrop pendant with 0.46 ct. t.w. diamonds, 16–18-inch chain, MSRP: $1,550. Circle pendant with 0.51 ct. t.w. diamonds, 18-inch chain, MSRP: $1,834

RDI Diamonds Inc. 2300 W. Ridge Road, Fourth Floor Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 585-225-0415 Email: arickard@rdidiamonds.com Website: rdidiamonds.com Guaranteed to help you never make a bad inventory buy again.

You Me We™ offers complete customization that includes our no-risk 100 percent Sell Thru Guarantee! Customize your solution for your store with four different package options.

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

CLASSIFIEDS

146

FOR SALE

CAREER OPPORTUNITIES

B9Core 530 printer purchased new March 2019, 45 hours, 2 trays, one unused, emerald, yellow resin LED Cure Box. Must Sell: $7500.00.

Frank 920-928-3035

Great Opportunity and Top Pay, Southwest Florida Call Stuart Dunkin 239-822-1022

SERVICES TO TRADE

Experienced Fine Jewelry Store Manager

Moore Jewelers Inc (Frank George Moore) 60481 East Arroyo Vista Drive, Oracle, AZ 85623

SCHOOLS & EDUCATION JEWELRY CLASSES

• Wax Modeling • Casting Mold Making • Bead Pearl Stringing • Diamond Setting • Rendering/Design • Jewelry Repair Long and Short Term Courses EST. 1979, LICENSED BY NYS ED. DEPT. 32 East 31 Street (Park & Madison) New York, NY 10016 Call (212) 686-1944 www.studiojewelersltd.com

STUDIO JEWELERS, LTD

JEWELERS & SALES REPRESENTATIVES The Nation's Largest Restyle Event Company Seeks Experienced Jewelry Sales Representatives and Bench Jewelers who are free to travel and ready for the financial success that working for a great company offers. Salary plus commissions $80K to $120K+. Set schedule; no cold calls. 34 weeks per year travel required, security provided. Benefits include bonuses, 401K and profit-sharing plans, dental, paid health and life insurance, commuting allowance, paid travel expenses and vacation.

INVISIBLE EXPERTS! INVISIBLE SET DIAMOND JEWELRY REPAIR • SIZING • REPLACE MISSING STONES TIGHTEN LOOSE STONES • LASER WELDING

We Have The Answer to Your Problems! www.invisibleexperts.com SIGNATURE JEWELRY INC.

1-877-8-EXPERT 213-624-6026

617 S. OLIVE ST. STE. 201 LOS ANGELES, CA 90014

WATCHES & WATCH WORK ACCUTRON REPAIRS Done by a Certified Accutron Technician 45+ years experience, 99% parts in stock, quick turnover, all work guaranteed, reasonable prices.

Star Findings PO Box 6167, West Orange, NJ 07052 212-941-7655 ernie@starfindings.com www.starfindings.com

TRADE SUPPLIES

Fax resume to 770.499.8974 or email careers@danaaugustineinc.com www.danaaugustineinc.com

CUSTOM MADE MANUFACTURING RUN A CLASSIFIED AD STARTING AT $220 Call your JCK Sales Representative or email JCKClassifieds@advance.net.

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

3D computer design 3D wax printing ● Precious metal casting ●

●

Stone setting and finishing Diamond supply ● Laser engraving & repair ●

●

Limpid Jewelry at your service since 1979 800-446-0445 www.limpidjewelry.com info@limpidjewelry.com

JCKONLINE.COM

ADVERTISING

INDEX AGTA pg. 26 Website: agta.org Toll-Free: 800-972-1162 Alex Velvet pg. 29 Website: alexvelvetusa.com Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Phone: 323-255-6900 Artistry Ltd. pg. 10 Website: artistrylimited.com Email: getinfo@artistrylimited.com Toll-Free: 888-674-3250 Color Jewels Inc. pg. 49 Website: cirari.com Email: tarek@colorjewels.net Phone: 212-764-2823 Costar Imports pg. 51 Website: costarimports.com Email: info@costarimports.com Toll-Free: 877-7COSTAR Diamspark Lab Grown Diamonds pg. 97 Website: diamspark.com Email: labgrown@diamspark.com Phone: 212-221-4400 Earstuds USA pg. 23 Website: earstudsusa.com Email: sales@earstudsusa.com Toll-Free: 866-327-7883 Effy pg. 7 Website: effyjewelry.com Email: inquiries@effyjewelry.com Toll-Free: 855-ASK-EFFY Facet Barcelona USA Inc. pg. 17 Website: facetbarcelona.com/usa Email: sales@facet.es Phone: 212-302-8200 Gabriel & Co. pg. 15 Website: gabrielny.com Phone: 212-519-1400 Garmin pg. 25 Email: Caitlin.stephens@garmin.com Phone: 913-440-5849 GIA pg. Inside Back Cover Website: gia.edu Email: marketing@gia.edu Phone: 760-603-4000 Toll-Free: 800-421-7250 Herco pg. 42 Website: herco.com Email: info@herco.com Toll-Free: 800-864-0767

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Hoover & Strong pg. 54 Website: hooverandstrong.com Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Phone: 804-794-3700 Toll-Free: 800-759-9997

Quality Gold, Inc. pg. 91, 93 Website: Qgold.com Email: info@Qgold.com Phone: 513-942-7659 Toll-free: 800-354-9833

Italgem Steel pg. 20 Website: Italgemsteel.com Email: sam@italgemsteel.com Phone: 514-388-5777 Toll-Free: 855-ITALGEM

Rahaminov Diamonds pg. 45 Website: rahaminov.com Email: info@rahaminov.com Phone: 213-622-9866

JCK Events pg. 4-5, 140 Website: jckshows.com Toll-Free: 800-257-3626

Rand & Paseka pg. 38 Website: randpaseka.com Email: sales@randpaseka.com Toll-Free: 800-229-0006

Jewelers Mutual Insurance pg. 37 Website: jewelersmutual.com Toll-Free: 800-558-6411

RDI Diamonds pg. 34 Website: rdidiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-874-8768

JIS Show pg. 81, 106 Website: jisshow.com Email: info@jisshow.com Toll-Free: 800-840-5612

Royal Chain Group pg. 9 Website: royalchain.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960

JTR Jewellery Exporters’ Association pg. 39 Website: jtr.org.tr Email: info@jtr.org.tr LGDEX.org pg. 87 Website: lgdex.org Email: info@lgdex.org Phone: 212-221-0535 Toll-Free: 877-892-2555 Lab Grown Source pg. 99 Website: labgrownsource.com Email: jerry@labgrownsource.com Phone: 801-357-9151 Le Vian pg. Inside Front Cover, 1 Website: levian.com Email: sales@levian.com Toll-Free: 877-2LEVIAN Midas pg. 11 Website: midaschain.com Email: sales@midaschain.com Toll-Free: 877-643-2765 Nelson Jewelry USA pg. 47 Website: nelsonus.com Email: info@nelsonus.com Toll-Free: 800-489-3327 Overnight pg. 95 Website: Overnightmountings.com Email: sales@overnightmountings.com Phone: 516-865-3000 Toll-free: 888-731-1111

Shy Creation Inc. pg. 19 Website: shycreation.com Toll-Free: 800-606-1749 Smiling Rocks pg. 82 Website: smilingrocks.com Email: info@smilingrocks.com Phone: 818-441-8125 Stuller Inc. pg. 33, 89 Website: stuller.com Email: info@stuller.com Toll-Free: 800-877-7777 Swarovski Gemstones pg. 84-85 Website: swarovski-gemstones.com Tim Roark Inc. pg. 21 Website: timroarkinc.com Email: info@trimportsatl.com Phone: 404-872-8937 Toll-free: 800-568-2011 UBM Rotaforte International Fairs Inc. pg. 138 Website: ubmrotaforte.com Email: info-rotaforte@ubm.com Phone: +90 212 519 07 19 Umicore pg. 22 Website: umicorepreciousmetals.com Toll-Free: 877-795-5060 Wilkerson pg. 53 Website: wilkersons.com Toll-Free: 800-631-1999

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United States Postal Service Statement of Ownership, Management, and Circulation Statement Required by 39 U.S.C. 3685 showing the Ownership, Management and Circulation of JCK, published 7 times/year (Jan/Feb, Mar/Apr, May, June, Jul/Aug, Sep/Oct and Nov/Dec), for October 1, 2019. Publication No. 434-570. Annual subscription price $59.95.

1) Location of known office of Publication is One World Trade Center, 28th Floor, New York, NY 10007. 2) Location of the Headquarters or General Business Offices of the Publisher is One World Trade Center, 28th Floor, New York, NY 10007. 3) The names and addresses of the Publisher, Editorial, and Managing Editor are: Publisher, Mark Smelzer, One World Trade Center, 28th Floor, New York, NY, 10007. Editor, Victoria Gomelsky, One World Trade Center, 28th Floor, New York, NY 10007. Managing Editor, Melissa Bernardo, One World Trade Center, 28th Floor, New York, NY 10007. 4) The owner is: Reed Exhibitions, 201 Merritt 7, Norwalk, CT 06851. 5) Known bondholders, mortgagees and other security holders owning or holding 1 percent or more of total amount of bonds, mortgages or other securities are: None. 6) Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: September/October 2019. 7) Extent and Nature of Circulation: Average Number of copies of each issue during the preceding 12 months: (a) Total number of copies printed (net press run): 28,782. (b) Paid/Requested Distribution (1) Paid/Requested OutsideCounty Mail Subscriptions: 15,853. (2) Paid/Requested In-County Subscriptions: 0. (3) Sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors, counter sales and other Paid/Requested distribution: 377. (4) Requested copies distributed by Other Mail Classes: 0. (c ) Total Paid and/or Requested circulation: 16,230. (d) Nonrequested Distribution by Mail (1) Outside County nonrequested: 8,722. (2) In County nonrequested: 0. (3) Nonrequested copies distributed through USPS by Other Classes of Mail: 0. (4) Nonrequested Distribution outside the mail: 3,696. d. Total Nonrequested Distribution: 12,418. Total Distribution: 28,649. (g) Copies not Distributed: 133. (h) Total: 28,782. (i) % Paid/ Requested Circulation 56.65%. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: (a) Total number of copies printed (net press run): 28,152. (b) Paid/Requested Distribution (1) Paid/Requested Outside-County (b) Paid/Requested Distribution (1) Paid/Requested Outside-County Mail Subscriptions: 14,825. (2) Paid/Requested In-County Subscriptions: 0. (3) Sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors, counter sales and other Paid/Requested distribution: 1,134. (4) Requested copies distributed by Other Mail Classes: 0. (c ) Total Paid and/or Requested circulation: 15,959. (d) Nonrequested Distribution by Mail (1) Outside County nonrequested: 8,974. (2) In County nonrequested: 0. (3) Nonrequested copies distributed through USPS by Other Classes of Mail: 0. (4) Nonrequested Distribution outside the mail: 3,120. e. Total Nonrequested Distribution: 12,094.

Total Distribution: 28,053. (g) Copies not Distributed: 99. (h) Total: 28,152 (i) % Paid/Requested Circulation 56.89%. 8) Electonic Copy Circulation: 0. 17) Publication of Statement of Ownership will be printed in the November/December 2019 issue of this publication. 9) I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete.

Mark Smelzer, Publisher October 1, 2019.

Copyright Š2019 Reed Exhibitions. All Rights Reserved. JCK Vol. 150 No. 7 (ISSN 1534-2719) is published 7 times a year in January/ February, March/April, May, June, July/August, September/October, and November/December for $59.95 by Advance Local LLC d/b/a Headline Studio on behalf of Reed Exhibitions, 201 Merritt 7, Norwalk, CT 06851. Reed Business Information is a division of Reed Elsevier, Inc. Circulation records are maintained at (800) 305-7759. Periodicals Postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to JCK, P.O. Box 5663, Harlan, IA 51537. JCK is a registered trademark of Reed Properties Inc., used under license.This advertiser index is published as a conve-nience and not as part of the advertising contract. Every care will be taken to index correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page number, or failure to insert or include information. Please reference page number listed for more information.

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THE WAY WE WERE COVER STORIES FROM 150 YEARS OF JCK

CROWN & COUNTRY

AS ROYAL FANS gear up for the Nov. 17 season 3 premiere of The Crown, what better excuse to feature the March 1953 Queen Elizabeth– themed issue of The Jewelers’ CircularKeystone? “Certainly no other event can draw so much public attention and interest to fine jewels,” we wrote in “All Eyes Are on the Coronation,” encouraging jewelers to capitalize on monarchy mania. “Precious stones, particularly diamonds, would seem to offer your chief promotion tie-in.” But don’t stop at stones, we added: Break out the antique silver (or reproductions), fine china, and luggage/travel accessories (to promote trips to London!). There was also no shortage of fit-for-a-queen jewels: cameos carved with Elizabeth’s portrait, Victorian-style diamond bangles, and tiaras aplenty. And jewelers who really wanted to splash out could order a set of replica crown jewels from London’s R. White & Sons for $1,400—for display purposes only, of course. —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY NESTOR CERVANTES

The coronation of Queen Elizabeth gave The Jewelers’ Circular-Keystone (and American retailers) plenty of inspiration

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T O TA L C L A R I T Y THE REALITY OF MODERN DIAMOND MINING

Today, 99.8% of diamonds are certified by the Kimberley Process as conflict-free.

T O L E A R N M O R E , G O T O T O TA L - C L A R I T Y. C O M

LEADING DIAMOND PRODUCERS EMPLOY

77,000

EMPLOYEES AND CONTR ACTORS WORLDWIDE, PROVIDING SAFE, H I G H - Q U A L I T Y A N D W E L L- P A Y I N G J O B S

MODERN DIAMOND MINING

LEADING DIAMOND

C R E AT E S M O R E T H A N

PRODUCERS PROTECT

$16 billion

3x the land

NET POSITIVE SOCIOECONOMIC AND

T H E Y U S E F O R M I N I N G G L O B A L LY ,

E N V I R O N M E N T A L B E N E F I T S A N N U A L LY —

OVER 1,000 SQUARE MILES,

8 0 % O F W H I C H I S R E TA I N E D B Y

EQ U I VA L E N T I N S I Z E TO YO S E M I T E

LOCAL COMMUNITIES

N AT I O N A L P A R K