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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

150TH ANNIVERSARY MARCH/APRIL 2019

JCKONLINE.COM

DESERT WIN FROM SUPPER CLUBS TO SPEAKEASIES, W H E R E T O E AT, D R I N K & LOUNGE IN LAS VEGAS

SILVER RUSH GO FOR THE BOLD W I T H ­G E O M E T R I C , CHAIN-LINK & ­S C U L P T U R A L S T Y L E S

RING FEVER WE’RE ALL AGLOW OVER THE WINNERS OF THE 2019 JCK JEWELERS’ CHOICE AWARDS


JCK Las Vegas - Booth 14101 For Appointments: 1-855-ASK-EFFY, ext. 679

group.com


E F F YJ E W E L R Y. C O M

F I N E J E W E L R Y E S T. 1 9 7 9


THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

150TH ANNIVERSARY MARCH/APRIL 2019

JCKONLINE.COM

DISPLAY’S THE THING

EYE-POPPING SHOWCASES TO SHOW OFF YOUR MOST SPARKLING JEWELS


Design and Photo © 2019 Le Vian Corp. All Rights Reserved.

® TRI-COLOR GOLD

AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY AT LE VIAN LUXURY RETAILERS

LEVIAN.COM • 877-2LEVIAN


N O O N E C O LO R S YO U R W O R LD LI K E LE V I A N â„¢


G2G

GOT TO GOLD! Fashion is fickle, gold is forever.


Like fashion, your gold customer is changing. We get that. Only Royal Chain creates gold jewelry for every customer who walks through your door. Discover it on: ROYALCHAIN.COM/G2G 800 622 0960


JCK EVENTS | Special Advertising Section

JCK Show & Tell

B&B FINE GEMS

PANJSHIR

Welcoming the 2019 Global Gemstone Neighborhood

COLORLINE

ENCHANTED DESIGNS

W H E N W E S AY J C K L A S V E G A S H A S E V E R Y T H I N G , W E M E A N I T— D O W N T O T H E L A S T B R I G H T LY C O L O R E D G E M S T O N E . As the show returns to its home at the Sands Expo and Venetian,

From Australia to New Zealand, Poland to Czech Republic, Germany,

it brings with it a long list of exhibitors seasoned and new, neatly

Singapore, and an impressive list of companies from India, Thailand,

organized into alluring neighborhoods to best serve you, our visitors.

Hong Kong, and right here in the United States, this area of JCK

You’ll find your favorites: Luxury, (celebrating 20 years!) with its exquisite

Las Vegas features vendors both domestic and international, giving

offering of high-end jewelers; Design Center, with its rock-star lineup

gemstone-seekers a literal world’s selection to choose from.

of creators; The Plumb Club, which will debut a brand new look for its pavilion this year, in addition to new experiences (stay tuned for more

You can—and probably will—spend days at the show checking out the

on that!), and recently committed to maintain its presence through 2025;

latest finished jewelry designs sure to delight your customers. Your

Essentials and Tech, with everything you need to stay up-to-date on the

ability to source loose gemstones is equally vital, whether you want

latest in business technology and innovation; and many, many more.

to have them on hand for repairs or custom work as a retailer, or to inspire your next design as a creator. No matter what part you play in the

We’re proud of the offerings for 2019, and excited about the latest

industry, our mission is to give you the best experience possible in one

addition to the JCK lineup: This year, we’re introducing the Global

all-encompassing show.

Gemstone neighborhood, featuring more than 200 companies from all over the world, including an expansive pavilion dedicated to the

To help you get a head start on stone sourcing, the Global Gemstone

member exhibitors of the International Colored Gemstone Association

pavilion will open one day earlier than JCK Las Vegas, on Thursday, May

(ICA), like the Alberta, Canada-based Enchanted Gems, whose ammolite

30, 2019. Can’t make it to Vegas before the official start of the show?

is pictured here.

Don’t fret. The pavilion will remain open through Monday, June 3.

For more information and to plan your show, visit jcklasvegas2019.com


What’s New at

Venue EXPERIENC E THE NE W LOOK AND FEEL AT THE SAND S EXPO & THE V ENETIAN . USE GPS NAVI GATI ON I N THE JC K MO BILE A PP A LO N G WI TH AN I MPROVED SHOW F LO O R L AYO U T TO G ET TO YOUR D ESTI NATI ONS WI TH EAS E.

Discovering New @ JCK IT’S NEV ER BEEN EAS I ER TO FI ND NEW PROD UCTS ON THE JC K S HOW F LO OR WI TH JCK’S ALL-NEW D I GI TAL LO O KBO O K, AC C ES SI BLE ONLY AT THE SHOW.

JCK’s TAO Takeover PA RTY WITH JC K! JCK I S TAKI NG OVER MULTI PLE AREAS AT TAO, INC LU DING T HE NI GHTCLUB AND TAO BEACH. S PO NS O RED BY EF F Y, THERE WI LL BE MULTI PLE DJS, DRINKS A ND THE NIGHTCLUB AND TAO BEACH WI LL BE O PEN EXC LU S IV ELY FOR JCK. SEE YOU THERE!

Book Your Hotel H AVEN ’T B O O K E D YO U R H OT E L F OR JC K LAS V EGAS 20 1 9 YET? WITH THE S HOW QUIC K LY A PPR OAC H I N G , R O O M S A RE F ILLING U P! BE S U RE TO S EC U RE YO U R RO O M AT TH E V E N E T I A N O R T H E PA L A ZZO F O R O U R MU C H-A NTIC IPATED MOV E BAC K:

JCKLASVEGAS2019.COM/BOOKYOURHOTEL

T h e Wo m e n ’s J e w e l r y A s s o c i a t i o n is using the Industry Fund grants T H E J C K I N D U S T R Y F U N D W A S C R E AT E D A R O U N D T H E B E L I E F T H AT I T I S A N E S S E N T I A L E L E M E N T A N D PA R T O F J C K ’ S C O R P O R AT E R E S P O N S I B I L I T Y TO G I V E B AC K A N D C O N T I N U E TO N U RT U R E A N I N D U S T R Y T H AT H A S G I V E N T O S O M A N Y. T H E W O M E N ’ S J E W E L R Y A S S O C I AT I O N ( W J A ) S H A R E S S I M I L A R V A L U E S , E A R N I N G I T S P L A C E A S A J C K I N D U S T R Y F U N D 2 0 1 8 R E C I P I E N T. I T HAS BEEN SUCCESSFUL IN BUILDING A STRONG COMMUNITY OF S U C C E S S F U L , D R I V E N W O M E N . T O D AY, I T F O C U S E S O N U N D E R S TA N D I N G T H E C U R R E N T WO R K P L AC E E N V I R O N M E N T F O R WO M E N I N T H E J E W E L RY A N D W AT C H I N D U S T R I E S , A N D E D U C AT I N G E M P L O Y E R S A N D E M P L O Y E E S A B O U T G E N D E R - R E L AT E D W O R K P L A C E I S S U E S A N D B E S T P R A C T I C E S , T H R O U G H I T S G E N D E R E Q U A L I T Y P R O J E C T.

to commission an industrywide survey to collect data on gender-related topics; engage a consultant to guide the task force; deliver workplace policy and best practice seminars/ webinars; and develop enhancements to the existing mentorship program.

- Women’s Jewelry Association

EACH 2018 RECIPIENT WILL BE PROFILED IN THE JCK INSIDER NEWSLETTER. VISIT JCKINSIDER.COM TO SUBSCRIBE AND LEARN HOW THE JCK INDUSTRY FUND IS MAKING A DIFFERENCE. L E A R N M O R E A B O U T T H E J C K I N D U S T R Y F U N D AT J C K L A S V E G A S 2 0 1 9 . C O M / I N D U S T R Y F U N D .

JCKINSIDER.COM

@ j c k e v e n t s # J C K L a s Ve g a s


CONTENTS

JCKONLINE.COM

COVER

THE 2019 JCA WINNERS

We’re ringing in the 12th annual JCK Jewelers’ Choice Awards with 46 of your fellow retailers’ favorite pieces.

FEATURES 56

ALL ABOUT THAT CASE How to create displays that will stop shoppers in their tracks. PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRICIA HEAL

62

INSIDE PLAN Here’s how the chicest jewelry retailers are adorning their stores. BY MARTHA C. WHITE

64

150 YEARS, 150 VOICES: PART 2

64

To mark JCK ’s 150th ­anniversary, we asked 150 ­industry insiders to talk about how the jewelry business has changed over the years, and the role we played in that evolution. BY ROB BATES

68

70

56

MALLS OF AMERICA: PART 4 JCK ’s ongoing series on the shopping centers finding success amid an ever-changing retail landscape. This issue: Bal Harbour Shops. BY EMILI VESILIND

70

SILVER FINDINGS PLAYBOOK These are the white-metal styles fashion-forward retailers are ­snapping up this season. BY RANDI MOLOFSKY

74

STRIP PLANNER The best places to eat, drink, and play in Vegas during jewelry week. BY MATT VILLANO

(MODEL) PHOTOGRAPH BY HANNAH KHYMYCH, TOP: MYRA SWIM; CUFF RING WITH 1.1 CTS. T.W. WHITE DIAMONDS AND 3.54 CTS. T.W. FANCY PINK DIAMONDS IN 18K PINK AND WHITE GOLD, $16,000, MIZRAHI OF BEVERLY HILLS, 310-273-8174, MIZRAHIDIAMONDS.COM; YAELITA EARRINGS IN 18K WHITE GOLD WITH 1.26 CTS. T.W. DIAMONDS, $5,529, YAEL DESIGNS, 415-989-9235, YAELDESIGNS.COM; 18K WHITE GOLD NECKLACE WITH 24.73 CTS. T.W. DIAMONDS, $118,000, ANDREOLI, 212-582-2050, ANDREOLIUSA.COM; DOUBLE DIAMOND TRANQUILITY BANGLE IN 18K WHITE GOLD WITH 1.45 CTS. T.W. DIAMONDS, $7,230, ­RECTANGULAR FRAME AND CHAIN BRACELET IN 18K WHITE GOLD WITH 0.32 CT. T.W. DIAMONDS, $2,000, PRISM BRACELET IN 18K WHITE GOLD WITH WITH 0.32 CT. T.W. DIAMONDS, $1,960, SHEE’S FINE JEWELRY, NATALIE@SHEES.COM; SHEES.COM; (STILL LIFE) PHOTOGRAPH BY PATRICIA HEAL

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To j o i n t h e c a m p a i g n , p l e a s e v i s i t w w w. d i a m o n d p r o d u c e r s . c o m


CONTENTS

10

112

JCKONLINE.COM

DEPARTMENTS JEWEL BOX

5 things rocking the industry

46

16 FROM THE EDITOR 18 STAFF PICKS 20 FROM THE PUBLISHER 26 JCK INSIDER 28 JCKONLINE 30 SOCIAL DIARY 33 NEWS GEMS

The incredible shrinking (and changing) industry GEM PRICING REPORT

39 40 THE CALENDAR

51

Industry shows, March 21–April 30, 2019

43 SHOP TALK INNOVATIVE RETAILER

Elizabeth Potts of The Moonstoned 45 RETAIL THERAPY How do you go above and beyond for clients? 46 CAUSES TO CELEBRATE 48 STORE WE ADORE Washington, D.C.’s Shelter

51 THE LOOK 52 JCK ASKS...

53

Julie Romanenko RED CARPET

91 92 94 97

18

THE VAULT COLORED STONES DIAMONDS

SHOW BIZ AGS heads to Seattle for its always-anticipated Conclave.

99 TOOL TIME

Get the most from Instagram Stories. Plus: Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Horizon 2019.

112 THE WAY WE WERE

Cover stories from 150 years of JCK

43

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) © HUMAN FOR THE MALALA FUND; NESTOR CERVANTES; ELIZABETH POTTS @THEMOONSTONED

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cover look

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JCKONLINE.COM

Large pavé hoops in 14k white gold with 0.5 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,775; Adina Reyter; 212-688-8313; jenaweirsales.com

RING FEVER

We’re all aglow over the winners of the JCK Jewelers’ Choice Awards Cuff ring with 1.1 cts. t.w. white diamonds and 3.54 cts. t.w. fancy pink diamonds in 18k pink and white gold; $16,000; Mizrahi of Beverly Hills; 310-273-8174; mizrahidiamonds.com Organic diamond necklace in 18k white gold with 3.37 cts. t.w. diamonds; $1,350; Trésor Collection; 305-375-0935; tresorcollection.com

DISPLAY’S THE THING Eden bracelet in 14k white gold with 7.43 cts. t.w. diamonds; $17,600; Shy Creation

Eye-popping showcases to show off your most sparkling jewels

14k white gold earrings with 6.31 cts. t.w. diamonds; $29,500; Own Your Story; 571-435-7717; ownyourstory.us

Glittara ring in 14k white gold with 2.11 cts. t.w. diamonds; $3,860; Shy Creation; info@shycreation.com; shycreation.com MARCH / APRIL 2019

JCK030119_012_CoverLook_v3.indd 12

(TOP) COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY HANNAH KHYMYCH Hair: FELIX FISCHER USING L’ANZA HAIRCARE/FACTORY DOWNTOWN; Makeup: CAITLIN WOOTERS/ ART DEPARTMENT; Stylist: NINA STERGHIOU; Manicurist: ROSEANN SINGLETON FOR EMILIE HEATHE/ ART DEPARTMENT; Model: KINGA TROJAN/NY MODEL MANAGEMENT; Swimsuit: ROSA CHÁ (ABOVE) PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRICIA HEAL Prop Stylist: BEVERLEY HYDE/ART DEPARTMENT JCKONLINE.COM

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the industry authority

5 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY

Jewel box 1

Rough Tourmaline bracelet in 18k and 22k gold; $15,500; Petra Class; petra.class@gmail. com; petraclass design.com

2

AWARDS

TUCSON The 2019 Tucson gem shows were defined by larger conversations about ethical mining. Gem Legacy, a nonprofit that seeks to support East African mining communities, debuted officially at JCK Tucson and urged the industry to get involved. Designers were likewise eager to discuss gemstone provenance, from Petra Class’ collection of minty aqua­ marines custom-cut in Jaipur, India, to the 10.5 ct. green beryl—hand-picked from a Tanzania mine—in Debra Navarro’s JCK Tucson Design Challenge–winning Vincent ring. As for trends, opals remain infinitely in demand, and emeralds are still on fire. Tourmalines were twinkling everywhere, and rhodochrosite has officially landed on our radar. Get ready.

A Star Is Born actress/songwriter Lady Gaga made a splash at the Oscars on Feb. 24 with her homage to Audrey Hepburn: a sweeping updo, elbow-length gloves, an LBD by Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen, and, oh yes, the 128.54 ct. Tiffany Diamond. Gaga is only the third person to wear the gem publicly. The first was socialite Mrs. Sheldon Whitehouse in 1957; Hepburn later wore the cushion-cut stone in a Schlumberger Ribbon Rosette necklace in Breakfast at Tiffany’s promo pics. The diamond has now returned to its home: a vitrine on the main floor at Tiffany’s Fifth Avenue flagship. JCKONLINE.COM

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Magic Mushroom pendant with coral, rainbow moonstone, and diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $6,360; Brent Neale; 646-745-6831; brentneale.com

Haute Joaillerie Sapphire Orbe in 18k white gold with 15.14 cts. t.w. orange sapphires, 23.03 cts. t.w. blue sapphires, and 27.93 cts. t.w. diamonds; price on request; Audemars Piguet; 212-758-8400; audemarspiguet.com

SHOWS

Two Swiss fairs figured: If you’re getting beat up, join up. For years, the watch-heavy Baselworld fair has been held in late March in Basel, while ­Geneva’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie has taken place in mid-January, forcing those hardy souls who attend both to travel back and forth to Switzerland twice in the span of three months. Now with both shows suffering notable defections, they have synced up their calendar dates so they will occur back-to-back, starting in late April 2020. The arrangement will run until at least 2024.

5

LADY GAGA & DIAMOND RING: TIFFANY & CO. (2)

3

DIAMONDS

COLORS Is 2019 the year of Living Coral? That’s the word from Pantone, which anointed the hue its ­official Color of the Year. While the sunny, energetic shade may seem super-summery, its presence on the fall/winter 2019 runways from the likes of Carolina Herrera, Rodarte, and Marc Jacobs proves that coral isn’t just a seasonal shade. As for its jewelry counterpart, seek gemmy designs ­featuring not only coral, but also morganite, padparadscha, carnelian, and even variations of ­zircon, moonstone, and quartz to make a match. According to Pantone, the color embodies a desire for playful expression—which works quite well for jewelry, too.

In January, Tiffany added a new C to its diamond displays: country of origin. The retailer now provides consumers with provenance information for just about all the diamonds it sells over 0.18 ct.; it wants to eventually add that information to its grading reports. Andy Hart, senior vice president of diamond and jewelry supply, says the reason was simple: Shoppers want to know. “We are seeing a new generation of buyers that cares about the environment, social responsibility, human rights, and labor practices, and they care about the diamond traceability,” he says, adding that proving origin “will allow consumers to make an informed purchase.”

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from the editor

16

This Picchiotti necklace—with a 53.41 ct. kunzite, 8.1 cts. t.w. tsavorite, and 2.67 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold—was the star of VicenzaOro.

Melissa Rose Bernardo Managing Editor mbernardo@jckonline.com MARCH / APRIL 2019

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WHATEVER YOU CALL it, that’s me at the moment—pinch-hitting for editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky, who’s enjoying the last moments of her maternity leave. She’ll be back on this page next issue, just in time for our fall fashion spectacular and Las Vegas run-up. That’s right: Las Vegas run-up. As I write this, Vegas jewelry week is a mere three months away. And since I’ve only been to JCK at Mandalay Bay, I’m superexcited to see the show in its newold home, the Sands Expo and the Venetian… and to try the push-button Champagne service at Rosina in the Palazzo hotel. To help you plan your JCK Las Vegas trip, JCK contributor Matt Villano, our resident Vegas expert, rounded up the hottest bars, restaurants, and recreational spots (in case you need to do some ax throwing) in “Strip Planner” on page 74. Of course, Vegas isn’t all about cocktails and casinos. We know you’ll be shopping for jewelry—lots and lots of jewelry—and our two product-packed features will definitely help jump-start your shopping list. “Silver Findings Playbook” (page 70) collects some of the boldest, most graphic white-metal pieces of the season. (Remember: You can never go wrong with chunky chain link.) Plus, in our annual JCK Jewelers’ Choice Awards Winners portfolio (page 78), you’ll find 46

pieces beloved by retailers in categories such as bridal, gold, and colored stones. Need an under-$2,500 bracelet? We’ve got it. A $1,000 price-point piece? Check. And congratulations to our grand prize winner, Mizrahi of Beverly Hills, for its pink and white diamond statement ring, which you saw on our cover model. Because you need a way to show off all that jewelry, we put together a two-part Decor Special. In “All About That Case” (page 56), photographed by Patricia Heal, stylist Beverley Hyde conceived three outrageously cool display cases to give you ideas and inspiration. And in “Inside Plan” (page 62), contributor Martha C. White spoke to artists and retailers about their style and store-design secrets. And if you’re ever in need of some serious style inspo, might I suggest a trip to Italy? After spending a few days at VicenzaOro in ­January—my first (and hopefully not last!) time at the show—I’m convinced that Italians are the most effortlessly stylish people in the world. The vibe at the fair is chic but not snobby, and innovation is everywhere you look. I only wish I could have spent more time wandering the halls. One idea I’d like to steal from VO: the end-of-day Aperol Spritz. Surely we can manage to re-create that at the Venetian in Vegas. Who’s in?

PORTRAIT: BRUCE GLIKAS

nderstudy. Fill-in. Cover.

JCKONLINE.COM

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the industry authority

OUR FAVORITE THINGS

STAFF PICKS 1

2

Fat Knot ring with black diamonds in 18k white gold; $9,885; Engelbert Stockholm; info@ engelbertstockholm. se; engelbert stockholm.se

Knot Diamond Trim pendant in 18k yellow gold; $1,725; Carelle; 800-2257782; carelle.com

3

Long Knot earrings in 18k yellow gold with diamonds; $18,000; Sidney Garber; 877-4272377; sidney garber.com

Torsade Knot ring in 18k yellow gold and sterling silver; $750; Lagos; 877-9254305; lagos.com

“Forget hanging loose. Right now I’m fit to be tied for all things twisted, looped, and hitched.” —Randi Molofsky, JCK jewelry director

JCKONLINE.COM

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WHY KNOT?

What JCK magazine’s RANDI MOLOFSKY is loving this month

5

Eternity Knot diamond bangle bracelet in 18k rose gold; $6,950; Kavant & Sharart; hello@ kavantandsharart. com; kavantand sharart.com

PORTRAIT: KIMBERLY GENEVIEVE

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FROM THE PUBLISHER

T

A postcard-perfect view of the JW Marriott Tucson Starr Pass Resort & Spa

My first meeting with Vic’s son, Niko (short for Nikolai)

Mark Smelzer Publisher msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com MARCH / APRIL 2019

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I’VE JUST FINISHED a week in New York City; a week in Vicenza, Italy; and two trips to Arizona. Whew. First up in January was the 24 Karat weekend in New York. That event and those that surround it are always the ideal kickoff to the year ahead after the holiday break. And this year was no exception. I booked an extra day at the VicenzaOro show, as I’m not planning to attend Baselworld (for the first time in 15 years!), and I was glad I did. VicenzaOro was rocking with energy and people. It was great running into friends from around the world. I also rented an Airbnb in the center of town—which I highly recommend. The two Arizona trips—for the late-January Centurion Show and February’s Tucson gem week—were also a blast. A special highlight was this year’s edition of the JCK Tucson show. If you’ve not been, the show has been curated to celebrate the intersection of artisanal design and finished jewelry. It has a true gem week feel, while also featuring beautiful finished product. And the annual Thursday-night party—with more than 700 RSVPs this year—was terrific.

The most wonderful part of this business is its people. Yes, folks say that about many industries. But I’ve been in a few—entertainment, publishing, digital advertising—and I know this one is unique. There was a moment at JCK Tucson, when I was on the balcony of the Starr Pass above the bar area in full swing, and I looked down to take in the full scope of so many friends, all chatting, catching up, laughing, and enjoying each other’s company. Wonderful. But the best people moment was ­meeting JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky’s 12-week-old son, Niko. Vic and I tease that we are Mr. and Mrs. JCK, but we truly have spent a terrific amount of time together and have shared many of our lives’ ups and downs. Vic’s story of her path to parenthood is hers to tell, but I witnessed it all, and my own son, Nolen, came into the world in the middle of her journey. To finally meet her son was joyous. Yes, the jewelry industry faces challenges. Store closings are brisk, social media is perplexing, and millennials are fickle. But at the same time, we have the Nikos and Nolens of the world, and life is pretty damn beautiful.

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; GROOMING: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES; STARR PASS: COURTESY MARRIOTT

alk about a travel whirl.

JCKONLINE.COM

3/7/19 11:34 AM


THE ART OF SELF EXPRESSION.

Our art-driven jewelry helps a woman beautifully express her many passions and experiences. Each piece is a seamless marriage of original art, 22k gold leaf and enamel. Handmade in the USA.

I N F O @ E V O C AT E U R S T Y L E . C O M

E V O C AT E U R S T Y L E . C O M

S E E U S AT J C K L A S V E G A S , B O O T H 1 8 1 3 1

203-956-0705


THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY FOR 150 YEARS!

Editor-in-Chief VICTORIA GOMELSKY Creative Director PETER YATES

Managing Editor MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

EDITORIAL News Director / ROB BATES rbates@jckonline.com

U.S. ADVERTISING SALES CT/DE/LA/MA/NJ/NY/PA Regional Manager / RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905, fax 917-591-8501 rgewertz@reedjewelrygroup.com

Senior Editor & Social Media Director / EMILI VESILIND evesilind@jckonline.com

AK/AL/AR/AZ/CA/CO/HI/IA/ID/IL/IN/KS/KY/ MD/MI/MN/MO/MS/MT/NC/ND/NE/NM/NV/ OH/OK/OR/SD/TN/TX/UT/VA/WA/WI/WV/ WY/CANADA/MEXICO Regional Manager / ROBIN LUTIN 310-474-9610, fax 917-591-8501 rlutin@reedjewelrygroup.com

Photography Director / FREYDA TAVIN Art Director / ALFREDO CEBALLOS Jewelry Director / RANDI MOLOFSKY

Barcelona Collection 888.674.8340 info@graymoorlanedesigns.com www.graymoorlanedesigns.com Graymoor Lane Designs is a division of Artistry, Ltd.

Jewelry Editor / RIMA SUQI

FL/GA/ME/NH/RI/SC/VT/PUERTO RICO Regional Manager / LARS PARKER-MYERS 203-840-5808, fax 203-840-9808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com

Contributing Editor / BRITTANY SIMINITZ bsiminitz@jckonline.com Copy Editor / SHARON CONGDON Editorial Contributors AMANDA BALTAZAR, KAREN DYBIS, AMY ELLIOTT, KATHY HENDERSON, BOB ICKES, ARI KARPEL, VENESSA LAU, KRISTIN LUNA, MICHELE MEYER, RACHEL S. PETERS, MONA QURESHIHART, STUART ROBERTSON, NANCY SIDEWATER, WHITNEY SIELAFF, DANIEL P. SMITH, MATT VILLANO, MARTHA C. WHITE, KRISTIN YOUNG

Centurion Scottsdale Luxury by JCK • JCK Las Vegas JA NY Select Shows by Centurion Centurion South Beach Call for a catalog 888.674.3250 www.artistrylimited.com

C I R C U L AT I O N Director, PubWorX / WENDY EDELSTEIN Subscriptions and Customer Service 800-305-7759 (North America) 515-247-2984 (other regions)

Photography Contributors BALL & ALBANESE, KEVIN CREMENS, RYANN FORD, LIAM GOODMAN, KEN GUTMAKER, ETHAN HILL, NICOLE LaMOTTE, STEPHEN LEWIS, MARK LUND, JEAN-PHILIPPE MALAVAL, GAVIN O’NEILL, CODY PICKENS, NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS, MIKAEL SCHULZ, PATRIC SHAW, JOEL STANS, REBECCA STUMPF, KENJI TOMA, DIEGO UCHITEL, KENNETH WILLARDT, JAMES WOJCIK

PUBWORX

PUBLISHED FOR REED EXHIBITIONS BY

Digital Imaging Specialist JAIRO CORLETO

VP, Content LIZ BUFFA

Dolce Collection

Publisher MARK SMELZER 917-273-0357 msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com

Operations Director MICHAEL CANDEMERES Operations Account Manager ESTRELLA BIBAS Premedia Specialist VANESSA COPPOLA

VP, Business Development MATT CHERVIN

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

Senior Vice President / Reed Jewelry Group (JCK, LUXURY, JIS) YANCY WEINRICH 203-840-5481 / yweinrich@reedjewelrygroup.com

I N T E R N AT I O N A L A D V E R T I S I N G BRAZIL/EUROPE/MIDDLE EAST MIREK KRACZKOWSKI Ul. Skierniewicka 14 / 108, 01-230 Warsaw, Poland 48-22-401-70-01, fax 48-22-401-70-16 cell 48-600-344-881 mirek@jckonline.com INDIA KAUSHAL SHAH 1A – 1101, Lodha Bellissimo, Apollo Mills Compound, Off N.M. Joshi Marg, Mahalaxmi, Mumbai – 400011 Maharashtra, India 91-22-2305-9305; cell 91-98-2171-5431 kaushal@kaushals.com

ISRAEL RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905 fax 917-591-8501 rgewertz@reedjewelrygroup.com THAILAND BUSABA THAWEEPHOON Reed Tradex Co. 32nd Floor, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, 100/68-69 N. Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok, 10500, Thailand 66-2-686-7374, fax 66-2-686-7288 cell 66-96-725-1525 busaba.thaw@reedtradex.co.th

CHINA/HONG KONG/INDONESIA/ JAPAN/KOREA/MALAYSIA/ PHILIPPINES/SINGAPORE/ TAIWAN/VIETNAM QUENTIN CHAN Leading Media Ltd., Room B, 16/F 8 Hart Ave., Tsimshatsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 852-2366-1106, fax 852-2366-1107 cell 852-9438-9577 quentinchan@leadingm.com

REED JEWELRY GROUP J C K L A S V E G A S , L U X U R Y, S W I S S W AT C H & J C K T U C S O N

Event Vice President SARIN BACHMANN 203-840-5651 sbachmann@reedjewelrygroup.com Portfolio Sales Director JIM FOX 203-840-5958 jfox@reedjewelrygroup.com Group Marketing Director AMANDA GOCHEE 203-840-5375 agochee@reedjewelrygroup.com

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY JCK NEWS DAILY

A ROUNDUP OF OUR BEST STORIES DELIVERED TO YOUR INBOX EACH DAY.

Breaking news, industry insights and practical advice for the jewelry trade. With all original, not aggregated content, the JCK News Daily newsletter is the industry’s true, business-to-business news source.

JCKONLINE.COM/SUBSCRIBE

Account Executive ANA CROSBY Bridal, Currents, Diamond Plaza, Plumb Club 203-840-5305 acrosby@reedjewelrygroup.com Sales Executive BARBARA MURRAY Global Gemstones, First Look 203-840-5820 bmurray@reedjewelrygroup.com

Special Events and Conference Director KATE (NELLIS) YOUNGSTROM 203-840-5675 kyoungstrom@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive NINA MANCINI Bridge, Design Center, Design@Luxury; JCK Tucson (Arizona Ballroom) 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedjewelrygroup.com

International Accounts Manager ALEXANDRA WURSTER Passport, Hong Kong, Germany & International Companies 203-840-5332 awurster@reedjewelrygroup.com

Sales Executive DANIEL EYZAGUIRRE Antique & Estate, JSA Security, Lab-Grown Diamonds; JCK Tucson (Tucson Ballroom) 203-840-5887 deyzaguirre@reedexpo.com

Account Executive LARS PARKER-MYERS Clockwork, Essentials & Technology, Gallery, Bella Italia, Retail Innovation 203-840-5808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com

Strategic Accounts Manager JESSICA GOLDKOPF AUDET Luxury 203-840-5955 jgoldkopf@reedjewelrygroup.com

Retailer Account Manager JCK Las Vegas MONALISA DEPINA 203-840-5556 mdepina@reedjewelrygroup.com Retailer Account Manager JCK Tucson & Luxury ISABEL CAJULIS 203-840-5950 icajulis@reedjewelrygroup.com Senior Marketing Manager JCK Las Vegas SAMANTHA NAGEL 203-840-5917 snagel@reedjewelrygroup.com Marketing Manager JCK Tucson & Luxury AMANDA MARINI 203-840-5649 amarini@reedjewelrygroup.com


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CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE

the industry authority

INSIDER Color Fused By Fire

DID YOU KNOW?

The circles around W-E-L-C-O-M-E in graphic designer Betty Willis’ iconic sign were made to look like silver dollars. Cha-ching! JCK LAS VEGAS runs May 31–June 3.

TO LEARN MORE, VISIT lasvegas.jckonline.com

ROLLIN’ STONES

nicolebarr.com 877.810.7312

JCK contributing editor Brittany Siminitz is rounding up this season’s biggest jewelry trends: hoop earrings (the more the merrier and the bigger the better!); arm cuffs (such as this rhodium-plated silver, diamond, and boulder opal piece by .925Suneera); sleek chokers; and gem-studded pearls. For more details and jewels, see jckinsider.com.

SEE WHAT’S HAPPENING ON THE SHOW FLOOR! FOLLOW @jckevents ON INSTAGRAM.

SIGN: LAS VEGAS NEWS BUREAU

SPRING CYCLE

Among the most popular gems at Tucson? The cheery tourmaline, in ocean blue, pale and deep pink, and vivid green, like this modern grass-colored pendant by Belle Brooke and these organic Granny Smith apple–hued earrings by Debra Navarro—both JCK Tucson designers.


CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE

the industry authority

ONLINE

@JCKMagazine JCKmagazine @jckmagazine @jckmagazine

INSTAGEM

FAVORITE FEED OF THE MONTH Need to up your gemstone IQ? There’s no better IG than GemologyGeek (@gemologygeek), Erica Silverglide’s colorful peek into “the world of Gems, Jewels & #Gemacation.” Don’t let the lengthy captions scare you; they’re packed with details about history, provenance, and even Mohs hardness.

Breaking down all the diamond colors and their causes. (Trace elements of boron! Who knew?)

Another treasured member of the GemologyGeek crew: Eloise the pup

Showing us where star sapphires got their name

Examining a 147.46 ct. (!) John Dyer Dreamscape-cut Bahia citrine

Geeking out over a Muzo Emeralds–designed bracelet featuring the company’s stones

Spessartine or spessartite? Both, says GemologyGeek, but spessartine is more common.

“While I have a very generous spouse who often gives me beautiful jewelry, I have outpaced him in buying most of my diamond jewelry.” — JCKonline reader Laurel DeVarney on “Diamond Producers Association Debuts Self-Purchase Campaign” JCKONLINE.COM


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Social Diary

GEM AWARDS

1

A CUT ABOVE

Designing men Stephen Webster and David Yurman clown around with Webster’s wife, Assia.

Jewelry’s best and brightest packed NYC’s Cipriani 42nd Street on a frosty January night for the always cozy and convivial annual Gem Awards

4

2

Just-retired Rolex president and CEO Stewart Wicht, the Gem winner for Lifetime Achievement, with his wife, Susan

3

The Jewelry Design winner, Fernando Jorge, makes his way to the stage.

Town & Country’s Will Kahn (aka @willsnotebook), the winner for Media Excellence

5

6

The Adventurine’s Marion Fasel, last year’s Media Excellence honoree, announces the 2019 winner (see No. 3).

Vogue contributing editor and renowned jewelry collector Lynn Yaeger with designer Irene Neuwirth BENJAMIN LOZOVSKY/BFA.COM

30

Rapper, jewelry lover, and Tiffany brand ambassador A$AP Ferg

Host Olivier Stip of Chanel with Andrea Davey of Tiffany & Co., which won for its marketing and communications

MARCH / APRIL 2019

JCK030119_030_SocialDiary.indd 30

7

8 Sophie Quy, whose Threads received the Retail Excellence award

9

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the industry authority

MARCH / APRIL 2019

NEWS JEWELERS CAN USE

NEWS GEMS

I

ARTUR/ISTOCK/GETTY

THE INCREDIBLE SHRINKING (AND CHANGING) INDUSTRY

N 2018, THE jewelry industry once again shrank— at least the part measured by the Jewelers Board of Trade (JBT). According to JBT, 1,064 North American jewelry companies discontinued operations last year, which breaks down to 893 retail jewelers, 106 wholesalers, and 65 ­manufacturers. That’s almost exactly equal to 2017, when JBT logged 1,066 discontinuances. Among the stores ­closing in 2018 were at least six that were over a century old, and one—Monahan & Co. in Harwich, Mass.—that was more than 200 years old.

You can’t judge a business entirely by the numbers BY ROB BATES

JCKONLINE.COM

JCK030119_033_NEWSGEMS_v3.indd 33

3/7/19 11:49 AM


NEWS GEMS

THE SCOOP

34

What’s Clicking on JCKonline

The top stories for February. Don’t miss a headline or blog post! Sign up for our daily newsletter at jckonline.com/newsletters/ subscribe.

552

Carat weight of the yellow diamond that was excavated from the Diavik diamond mine in Canada’s Northwest Territories in October. It now stands as the largest diamond ever found in North America.

1

Samuels Jewelers to

Close All Its Stores: After filing for bankruptcy in August, the 128-year-old, 110-store chain has reached the end.

2

The 552-Carat Diamond

on View in New York: JCK contributor Kristin Young got up close and personal with the largest diamond ever found in North America at the Phillips auction house.

3

Signet Jewelers Slashing

Home Office Head Count: America’s largest jeweler is offering certain nonstore employees “voluntary transition” packages.

4

This Lab-Grown All-

5

Diamond Ring Beat Jony Ive’s to the Punch: The Project D ring, which Dutch Diamond Technologies fashioned from a single 155 ct. plate of lab-grown diamond, is the first entirely man-made diamond ring to be produced.

Helzberg Opens 7 Next-

Generation Stores: The format showcases a variety of new digital features, including letting consumers try on rings using augmented reality.

“One day [Blake Nordstrom] came to my department and said, ‘What can I do for you?’ I replied, ‘You can help me tear these boxes open.’ He agreed, and there we were, ripping boxes. Later my co-worker said, ‘Do you know who that is? That was Blake Nordstrom. He shouldn’t be ripping boxes open.’ I said, ‘He wanted to.’ ” —An employee sharing a memory on Facebook of Blake Nordstrom,

former head of his family-owned company. On Jan. 2, Nordstrom died of cancer at age 58.

MARCH / APRIL 2019

JCK030119_033_NEWSGEMS_v3.indd 34

TOP: PIXELFIT/E+/GETTY

The good news is that the number of c­ ompanies entering the industry is going up. In 2018, 230 new companies listed with JBT, a 38.6 percent spike from the year before. That comprised 190 retailers, 25 wholesalers, and 15 manufacturers. Yet those stats may underestimate the number of new companies out there, and the business being done. Eric Braunwart, owner of Columbia Gem House, says he’s regularly contacted by young jewelry designers and retailers who seek him out since his company deals with responsibly sourced and Fair Trade gems. He’s found that these ­new-breed companies tend to sell through

­nontraditional channels such as Instagram and Etsy. Most of them aren’t listed on standard industry references like JBT. “We get two or three new accounts a week,” Braunwart says. “I’d say maybe 10 ­percent of them are on JBT’s radar.” In fact, some haven’t even heard of the industry’s ­credit-rating group. “They pay for everything with credit cards.” “We have all wondered if the market is ever going to come back to traditional brick-andmortar stores,” he adds. “But I think a lot of it is going to this new kind of retailer.” Richard Weisenfeld, president of JBT, admits that these companies are likely not showing up on its lists. “We’ve had trouble capturing the designer who is selling direct to the public,” he says. “We are not on that radar. One of the things we’d like to do is to get those people more involved.”

JCKONLINE.COM

3/7/19 11:49 AM


NEWS GEMS

Q&A

35

The Pandora Reflexions collection

3 Questions for...

SID KESWANI IN 2018, SID Keswani, a former executive at Target Corp. and CEO of grocery chain Fiesta Mart, became head of the Americas for Pandora. Here, he talks with JCK about Pandora’s new way of viewing franchisees, whether it will ever again sell to multibrand retailers, and just what the company has in the pipeline. —RB

multibrand location would be a great asset to the market. There are places where we will fill in a few pockets. What new initiatives can we expect from Pandora? Last year, we launched a new

bracelet, Reflexions. We will continue to support that. We have a beautiful new launch coming, Pandora Garden. We have a good partnership with Disney involving The Lion King. We have a new innovation coming in October, but we can’t give you specifics on that.

What changes does Pandora plan to make to its U.S. division? In November, we announced that our franchisees are our strong partners, and this thought process around [franchise buybacks] is going to stop. The focus is going to be on how [Pandora and its franchisees] move forward together. We are introducing new omnichannel initiatives in the U.S. where we will share profits with our franchise partners. Pandora has significantly trimmed its multibrand retail network. Do you see a reversal there? A few years ago, we closed quite a few locations. We are now looking at it differently. We will have continued partnerships with the multibrand stores. We are looking at some ways to reinvigorate the network across the U.S. There are places that don’t need a full-line store, but a JCKONLINE.COM

Tel: 323.255.6900 Fax: 323.255.6934 3334 Eagle Rock Blvd. • Los Angeles 90065 info@alexvelvetusa.com


NEWS GEMS

INDUSTRY&PEOPLE Forever Colors bangles with signature steel cables and PVD; $275–$350; Charriol; charriol.com

REMEMBERED

Matthew Tratner has been appointed GIA’s global director of business development. He was previously director of sales and membership at Jewelers of America and publisher of National Jeweler. He replaces Craig Danforth, who joins Jewelers Mutual Insurance Co. as vice president of client solutions. Regina Ciarleglio

Philippe Charriol

will replace Tratner as JA’s director of membership.

On Feb. 26, Philippe Charriol, founder of watch and jewelry brand Charriol, died in a car racing accident in Le Castellet, France. He was 77.

COMINGS AND GOINGS Auction house Doyle has appointed Laura K. Doyle as its CEO and Joanne Porrino Mournet as its president. Doyle is the youngest daughter of former CEO Kathleen Doyle, who will now act as chairman.

Kim E. Pelletier Kim E. Pelletier has been appointed president of IGC Brand Services, the Chicagobased fine jewelry division of IGC Group Antwerp. Pelletier,

who most recently served as senior vice president of Jacmel Jewelry, will relaunch IGC’s Naledi jewelry brand. Luca Bernasconi is the new

president and CEO of the U.S. division of Rolex. He previously served as president and CEO of Rolex Canada. He replaces Stewart Wicht, who retired in January after eight years as head of the division. Swiss jeweler de Grisogono has appointed Céline Assimon, a veteran of Piaget, as its CEO. She takes over from John Leitão, who has served since 2013. De Grisogono also hired Keith Rosen to serve as general manager of the Americas. Rosen previously worked at Tourneau, Panerai, and Piaget. Kaiser Time president Steven Kaiser has been elected chairman of the Jewelers’ Security JCKONLINE.COM


NEWS GEMS

I&P

Aurora and Selene rings in 18k white gold with 1 ct.–1.95 cts. t.w. diamonds; $6,250–$9,000 (with center stones); Fire & Ice; 209-5229926; fireandice diamonds.com

Alliance. He takes over for

Stewart Wicht, who has completed his three-year term. Patrick Evans, who in December stepped down as CEO of Canadian diamond miner Dominion Diamond Corp., is starting a lab-grown diamond company, according to reports. Dominion chief operating officer Shane Durgin is now the miner’s CEO.

Michael Hill International has appointed Andrea Slingsby to

the role of the retailer’s chief operating officer. Reed Jewelry Group has hired

luxury-industry sales veteran Jim Fox as its new portfolio sales director for the JCK and Luxury shows. He was the sales director for the consumer products division of Swarovski. Monterey Financial Holdings,

an Oceanside, Calif.–based financing company that focuses on jewelry retailers, has named Shaun Lucas president and CEO. President and CEO Chris Hughes has been appointed executive director. Kristina Buckley Kayel

The Diamond Producers Association has appointed Kristina Buckley Kayel managing director of its North American division. JCKONLINE.COM

Ania Haie has hired industry veteran Alisa Bunger to be U.S. director of sales. Bunger previously worked for seven years as director of sales for Elle Time & Jewelry. Before that, she was general manager,

TM

inventory manager, and management development specialist for Signet. James “Jim” Gold, president and chief merchandising officer of Neiman Marcus, resigned from the retailer Jan. 25. He had been with the company 28 years.

Online watch publication Hodinkee has appointed Russell Kelly to be its first chief commercial officer. He has worked for Blancpain and Vacheron Constantin, and for Rolex as brand manager for Tudor Watch USA.

®

954.578.1880 www.sterlingreputation.com Russell Kelly

See Us At All Major Trade Shows


NEWS GEMS

INDUSTRY&PEOPLE

38

COMPANIES

Angle two-finger ring in 18k gold with 1.36 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamonds; $6,500; Âme; 888-285-3935; www.ame.jewelry

Private equity firm Huron Capital has made an unspecified equity investment in WD Lab Grown Diamonds, based in Laurel, Md. Clive Hill, WD founder and CEO, and Yarden Tsach, WD’s chief technology officer, remain investors and will stay in their current roles.

with lab-grown diamonds, has opened stores in Los Angeles and New York City. Alex Popov, head of the Moscow Diamond Bourse, says his company will use white diamonds produced in a factory in Long Island City, N.Y.

HONORED

In December, the assets of

Scio Diamond, a Greenville,

The Jewelers Board of Trade has named Erich K. Jacobs as vice

president of technology. He was previously CEO and chief technology officer at OnKöl.

Nilesh Sheth

The Indian Diamond and Colorstone Association has reelected Nilesh Sheth as its

president for 2019. Sheth, president of Nice Diamonds, was first elected president of the association last year.

a half, has resigned. Eric Anderson, executive vice president of Bain Capital Private Equity, which purchased the e-tailer in 2016, will serve as interim CEO until a successor is found. Blue Nile has also appointed Starbucks veteran Alexandra Wheeler chief marketing officer. Alrosa has appointed ­industry veteran Rebecca Foerster president of Alrosa USA, the Russian diamond miner’s representative office in New York City.

Beth Moeri, former chief merchandising officer for Pandora Jewelry, has joined Fossil Group as executive vice president for portfolio brands. Jason Goldberger, Blue Nile’s

CEO for the past year and

MARCH / APRIL 2019

JCK030119_033_NEWSGEMS_v3.indd 38

Rebecca Foerster

Boaz Moldawsky was elected president of the Israel Diamond Institute. He previously served

as acting chairman.

S.C.–based producer of labgrown diamonds, were purchased by Adamas One Corp. Nevada-based Adamas One is headed by John “Jay” Grdina, a former adult-film actor and director who has headed an ammo manufacturer and hangover cure maker NoHo. A. Jaffe has taken a minority stake in the Fire & Ice diamond brand. Fire & Ice cofounder Bart Marks remains president.

Boaz Moldawsky Christopher Designs has appointed Lindsay Priest vice president of sales for the East Coast and Mary Marr-Belcher vice president of sales for the Southern states. Priest is former director of ­marketing and director of business development at Verragio. Marr-Belcher was most recently director of sales for Christian Bauer.

Fossil Group has sold $40 million in intellectual property related to smartwatch technology to Google. Zoara.com, a diamond-centric

e-tailer purchased in 2016 by De Beers sightholder Dalumi Group, closed down in January.

OPENING Âme Jewelry, a new company

that sells designer product

Dr. James E. Shigley

The GIA has bestowed its highest honor, the Richard T. Liddicoat Award for Distinguished Achievement, on Dr. James E. Shigley. Shigley, who has been at GIA for 30 years and currently serves as a distinguished research fellow, was honored for his many contributions to gemological research and the institute’s mission. The Diamond Empowerment Fund will honor Russian ­diamond miner Alrosa and

Luxury Jewelers Resource Group at its Diamonds Do

Good gala May 30 in the ­ alazzo ballroom at the P ­Venetian Resort during the JCK Las Vegas show. JCKONLINE.COM

3/7/19 11:49 AM


EM

AFTER ARIZONA IN THE LEAD-UP to the AGTA GemFair Tucson, dealers stoked an optimistic mood via enticing gem posts on Instagram and other social networks. On opening day of the show, which saw good traffic, we saw a nice contrast of colored stones. Morganite, pink tourmaline, pink spinel, and pink sapphire were a few top sellers. Prices for morganite were slightly lower than last year, with the exception of large (8 ct. plus) extra-fine gems, which some dealers priced as high as $800 per carat. (This material sold for $150–$200 only a few years ago.) Demand for morganite, tourmaline, and spinel seemed to benefit, at least in part, from the higher prices for pink sapphire. One of the bright spots was the demand for garnets, with red and orange particularly strong. No other major gem offers the intensity of natural color for the price in today’s market. Of the “big three,” sapphire continues to be the top seller in the U.S. Fine and extra-fine pink sapphire prices were about 20 percent higher than last year. Demand was strongest for no-heat, 3 ct.–5 ct. fine blue, green-blue, and teal colors. At AGTA, Potentate Mining featured an array of blue and fancy colored sapphires, all from Montana’s Rock Creek. Consistent production is among the factors boosting interest in America’s best-known gem.

NEWS GEMS

39 VS1

VS2

SI1

SI2

GOOD

DIAMOND: 1 ct. round brilliant G H

$6,800 $6,080

$6,320 $5,800

$5,700

$4,720

$5,450

1 to under 2 cts.

$2,750–$4,500

$8,000–$10,000

2 to under 3 cts.

$3,500–$6,000

$9,500–$11,500

$4,470

Rhodolite Garnet I

$5,700

$5,200

$4,950

$4,000

J

$4,900

$4,500

$4,080

$3,760

1 to under 3 cts.

$30–$70

$70–$110

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$90

$90–$150

DIAMOND: 1/2 ct. round G H

$3,570 $3,200

$3,200 $3,000

Rubellite Tourmaline

$2,700

$2,340

$2,600

1 to under 3 cts.

$75–$125

$220–$250

3 to under 5 cts.

$110–$225

$275–$375

$2,270

Tsavorite Garnet I

$2,720

$2,630

$2,250

$2,150

J

$2,240

$2,125

$2,000

$2,050

1 to under 3 cts.

$575–$850

$1,050–$1,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$1,500–$2,200

$2,500–$3,000

DIAMOND: 2 ct. round brilliant G H

$12,200 $10,300

$11,300 $10,000

Tahitian Pearl Strand (knotted 14k ball clasp)

$9,350

$7,600

$8,300

9 to under 12.5 cts.

$3,500–$4,500

$4,500–$8,000

10 to under 13.5 cts.

$4,000–$5,000

$5,000–$9,000

$7,150

Mozambique Cuprian Tourmaline I

$9,700

$7,900

$7,600

$6,725

J

$7,200

$7,300

$6,400

$6,000

2 to under 3 cts.

$1,800–$3,500

$5,000–$6,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$2,500–$3,700

$6,500–$9,000

DIAMOND: 2 ct. princess cut G

$8,960

$8,100

Pink Sapphire

$7,575

$6,600

H

$8,350

$7,560

$6,800

$6,000

I

$6,475

$6,140

$6,000

$5,400

1 to under 3 cts.

$425–$715

$850–$1,100

3 to under 5 cts.

$525–$950

$1,350–$1,800

1 to under 3 cts.

$50–$75

$125–$150

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$80

$135–$170

Blue Zircon

J

$5,350

$4,850

$4,770

$4,700

Prices shown represent actual wholesale memorandum prices paid by retail jewelers on a per-stone basis. All prices are per carat except for cultured pearls. No responsibility or liability is assumed for the consequences of the use of any information in this report, nor for errors or omissions. The terms commercial, good, fine, and extra-fine are general classifications developed and used by The GemGuide. Each represents a range of individual quality grades. When they are used in conjunction with proper grading, one can accurately pinpoint a price from within the listed range. The GemGuide is published six times a year. A one-year subscription includes market reports and colored stone and diamond prices. For more information, contact Gemworld International Inc., 2640 Patriot Blvd., Suite 240, Glenview, IL 60026; 888-GEMGUIDE or 847-657-0555, fax 847-657-0550. U.S., Canada, $205 complete per year. Elsewhere $275 complete per year.

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MARCH / APRIL 2019

the industry authority

SHOWS & EVENTS

THE CALENDAR INTERNATIONAL

March Birthstone

AQUAMARINE Affinity necklace with 511.27 cts. t.w. rough aquamarine and 1.25 cts. t.w. diamonds in 20k gold; $16,000; Coomi; concierge@coomi.com; coomi.com

• MARCH

• APRIL

ISTANBUL ­J EWELRY SHOW

MIDEAST WATCH & ­J EWELLERY SHOW

21–24 Istanbul

march.istanbul jewelryshow.com

21–26

BASELWORLD Basel, Switzerland

baselworld.com

U.S. • MARCH 22–23

STULLER’S BENCH JEWELER WORKSHOP Lafayette, La. stuller.com

22–24

GEMFAIRE

Salt Lake City gemfaire.com

GREENSBORO GIFT & JEWELRY SHOW Greensboro, N.C. gtshows.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Collinsville, Ill. intergem.com

WALNUT CREEK BEAD & DESIGN SHOW

Walnut Creek, Calif. beadanddesign.com

23–24

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW

Birmingham, Ala. american beadshows.com

4–7

8–10

St. Paul, Minn.

Seattle

AMERICAN CRAFT SHOW

29–31

GEMFAIRE

Puyallup, Wash. gemfaire.com

HOUSTON SPRING BEAD & JEWELRY SHOW Stafford, Texas aksshow.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Columbus, Ohio intergem.com

30–31

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW

Louisville, Ky.

americanbeadshows. com

31–APRIL 1 GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS Minneapolis

glwshows.com

• APRIL 4–5

9TH INTERNATIONAL GOLD CONFERENCE New York City

artinitiatives.com

craftcouncil.org

5–7

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS Livonia, Mich. glwshows.com

GEMFAIRE

Eugene, Ore. gemfaire.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Los Angeles

AMERICAN GEM SOCIETY CONCLAVE americangemsociety.org

12–14

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Houston

intergem.com

Kenner, La.

aksshow.com

TREASURES OF THE EARTH GEM, MINERAL & ­J EWELRY SHOW Hampton, Va. treasuresof theearth.com

6–7

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW Atlanta

american beadshows.com

27–29

SPRING ­J EWELRY, FASHION & ­A CCESSORIES SHOW

FASHION ­J EWELLERY EXPO TOKYO

jfashow.com

fashion-tokyo.jp/en

Rosemont, Ill.

Sharjah, United Arab Emirates mideast jewellery.com

6–9

OROAREZZO Arezzo, Italy oroarezzo.it

JEWELLERY SALON

Riyadh, Saudi Arabia

jewellerysalon.com

19–22

CHINA INTERNATIONAL GOLD, ­J EWELLERY & GEM FAIR Shenzhen, China

shenzhenjewellery fair.com/en-us/ fairinfo

Tokyo

26–27

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS West Springfield, Mass. glwshows.com

15–16

INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD Brooklyn, N.Y. iwjg.com

intergem.com

NEW ORLEANS SPRING BEAD & JEWELRY SHOW

25–28

2–6

15–18

16–18 JIS MIAMI APRIL

Miami Beach, Fla. jisshow.com

26–28

GEMFAIRE San Diego

gemfaire.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Scottsdale, Ariz. intergem.com

JACKSONVILLE SPRING BEAD & JEWELRY SHOW

Jacksonville, Fla. aksshow.com

19–21

GEMFAIRE

28–30

gemfaire.com

Secaucus, N.J.

Santa Rosa, Calif.

April Birthstone

DIAMOND Aries and Taurus Zodiac Sign earrings with 0.056 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $265 each (sold as singles); Mini Mini Jewels; info@miniminijewels.com; miniminijewels.com

CELTIC SHOWCASE celticshows.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Dallas

intergem.com

DON’T FORGET…

LUXURY MAY 29–JUNE 3 JCK LAS VEGAS MAY 31–JUNE 3

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43

thethe industry industry authority authority

MARCH / APRIL 2019

FOR THE SUCCESS OF YOUR STORE

SHOP TALK

PORTRAIT: NICOLAS POTTS @POTTSYPOTTS; JEWELRY: ELIZABETH POTTS @THEMOONSTONED

Elizabeth Potts The Moonstoned themoonstoned.com

The Ophia hoops in 14k gold with pearshape emeralds (also available with sapphires, rubies, and black diamonds); $1,800

APP STAR

How The Moonstoned’s Elizabeth Potts parlayed her love of jewelry and passion for storytelling into Instagram’s coolest vintage bauble biz

G

BY EMILI VESILIND

OOD MORNING, AND welcome to the best day e­ verrrrrr!” purred Elizabeth Potts, founder of The Moonstoned, in a video posted to the e-comm company’s Instagram feed (@themoonstoned) the week before Christmas. While chatting into the camera, she executed an adorable little dance that involved whipping her head from side to side, a huge smile on her lovely face. “It’s finally trunkshow day, and I’m really excited, in case you couldn’t tell.” It’s Potts’ (very infectious) passion for the pieces she handpicks—all vintage and antique, and often quite uncommon—that has made The Moonstoned a platform to watch. The 29-year-old’s sunny vibe and easygoing persona,

JCKONLINE.COM

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shop talk

INNOVATIVE RETAILER

44

The Ayita ring with cabochon moonstone and reclaimed antique diamonds in platinum and 18k gold; $2,850

“I spend a lot of time with my customers. I want them to feel connected. That’s why I think seeing my face is important.” —Elizabeth Potts

What’s your background in jewelry? I grew up in New Mexico, inspired by the Native American jewelry artistry there. I remember visiting a Zuni reservation and watching how jewelry was made; every part of it was so thoughtful. In school I was a major history nerd; I went to New Mexico MARCH / APRIL 2019

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State University for jewelry design and history. The love of the two things came together naturally. What was the initial idea for The ­Moonstoned? I had a bunch of beautiful resources for rare and antique jewelry, and I just wanted to share them. [At first] I was sharing with friends and meeting with people and showing them jewelry. I launched TheMoonstoned.com in 2015, and then Instagram began to become a major platform, and I started up there. I’ve been really surprised at how effective both have been. How do you pick the pieces you sell? I can’t even tell you about trends. I buy what I love.

How did you get started posting selfie-style videos? When I did my first video, I was so nervous. I remember doing it and doing it and doing it again. Finally, I was like, “I don’t need this to be perfect; I just want to get it out.” And if you look at the videos, they’re not perfect. They’re silly and sometimes loud and sometimes stupid. Sometimes I don’t say anything, and sometimes I have a lot to say. I’ve gotten to a point where I try to let go of my ego and my fear and be genuine. I actually tend to shy away from technology, but things like video can create better bonds with people and make the whole jewelry experience way more fun.

What would you say is the secret of The Moonstoned’s success? You can buy a beautiful piece of ­jewelry from anyone, the same way you can buy fancy shoes. But ideally, you want to know how your jewelry feels. And really, you want to know where you’re getting it from, and that someone is excited about it.

GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO NOMINATE OUR NEXT INNOVATIVE RETAILER.

ELIZABETH POTTS @THEMOONSTONED

captured on Instagram in videos and written posts that mimic the feel of ­casual emails, convert. Big time. Roughly 85 percent of The Moonstoned’s sales originate on Instagram. While the Hudson, N.Y.–based retailer says she’s still experimenting with video, she believes the medium has “created this personal, peer-topeer shopping experience that you don’t necessarily get when you’re in a jewelry store. With videos, I cross over into this special place with people.”

What are your goals for The ­Moonstoned in 2019? These past few months I’ve started paying more attention to things like algorithms. I totally dove into all that, so in 2019 I’m projecting to double or even triple sales. The first two years have been really organic, and I’ve been able to share a lot about myself and why I love jewelry. I think that’s only going to grow and become more fun and interactive. And with the videos, I have a few plans for getting people really involved. Did you know you can call people through Instagram now? I’ve been experimenting a little with that.

JCKONLINE.COM

3/7/19 11:58 AM


IL

VIP TREATMENT BY EMILI VESILIND

Q: how does your store go above and beyond to make clients feel special? a: The biggest thing for us are those one-on-one interactions. If it’s an out-of-town client and I happen to be in their city, I’ll call them up and see if they want to get together—not necessarily to try and sell them something, but just to keep the dialogue going. If I had a special piece made out of ovals for a customer, I know they love ovals; if I then happen to get something oval in, I’ll call and let them know. Our customers like that they don’t have to jump through hoops. We take care of them.

RONNIE AGAMI PRESIDENT/CO-OWNER UNIVERSAL DIAMONDS Atlanta universaldiamond.com

Shop Talk

Proudly made in the USA Since 1951

JOSH BONIFAS CO-OWNER FOURTANÉ ESTATE JEWELERS Carmel, Calif. fourtane.com

a: Building relationships with clients is central to the success of a shop in a small town like Carmel. We want our clients to have a memorable experience shopping at Fourtané and to know their business is appreciated for reasons beyond their purchasing power. Recently, we brought a basket with five carrots in it to a client’s home when we delivered a 5-carat diamond ring her husband had purchased as a surprise. We even fit the ring to one of the carrots.

a: We have two rules when

LAMAR McCUBBIN PRESIDENT SISSY’S LOG CABIN Pine Bluff, Ark. sissyslogcabin.com

people come into our [four] locations. First, the customer is always right. And second, if the customer is wrong, please refer back to rule number one. No problem is too big or too small. We put our phone numbers on the building in case of a jewelry emergency—and yes, we do get calls and we do meet people and take care of them. The more we’re inconvenienced, the more convenient we are to our customers.

DO YOU NEED RETAIL THERAPY? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

JCKONLINE.COM

ALAN PERRY OWNER PERRY’S EMPORIUM Wilmington, N.C. perrysemporium.com

a: Dang, we do a lot, and our sales have grown every year. Both my sons are on the floor with me some of the time, and we have 22 staff members we train almost every day on something. We send out birthday and anniversary cards and do follow-up calls. We sent out more than 150 sterling silver Christmas ornaments last year just to say thank-you, and that was a big hit.

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SHOP TALK

CAUSES TO CELEBRATE

46

“Twenty percent of our profits are donated directly to our charity partners.” —Stacey Boyd Olivela founder Stacey Boyd

Fashion and charity come together at the philanthropy-driven boutique Olivela BY KATHY HENDERSON

S

Buying these Nonna Flower earrings by Lizzie Fortunato ($250) provides seven days of school for Syrian refugees through CARE. MARCH / APRIL 2019

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OCIAL ENTREPRENEUR ­S TACEY Boyd experienced the ultimate “aha” moment while visiting a refugee camp in Kenya with Nobel Peace Prize winner Malala Yousafzai. Glancing down at her own designer handbag, Boyd began envisioning a business in which fashion and jewelry shoppers could donate a portion of their purchases to the Malala Fund and other educational causes. That bright idea became Olivela, which has paid for more than 90,000 days of school for girls since its opening in June 2017. “Olivela was founded with philanthropy at its core,” says Boyd, a former educator based in London. “Twenty percent of our profits from every purchase are donated directly to our charity partners.” With offerings from the likes of Valentino, Marc Jacobs, Stella

Boyd with Malala Yousafzai and her father, Ziauddin

McCartney, and more than 40 jewelry brands (such as Ippolita, Marco Bicego, Roberto Coin, Zoë Chicco, and Lizzie Fortunato), the benefits add up quickly, with no added cost to consumers. A $275 Dana Rebecca star necklace, for example, provides seven days of school through the Malala Fund. Boyd initially linked fashion and philanthropy in 2012 when she ­founded Schoola, a California-based online store that supports more than 30,000 schools through the sale of new and gently used clothing. “I realized what a profound impact the purchase of an item of clothing could make,” she says now, “and what immense potential there was to be had by applying this concept to luxury goods.” Headquartered in New York, Olivela has grown from an initial group of 12 designers to more than 200 brands, including ready-to-wear, accessories, and beauty and wellness products. The decision to make jewelry an integral part of Olivela was a no-brainer for the style-conscious company. “The

Olivela customer is the fashion customer, with a deep appreciation for style and luxury, but also an understanding that in 2019 there’s no excuse not to shop consciously,” Boyd says. The bracelets, earrings, necklaces, and rings offered “span from fine to fashion jewelry, bringing together a selection of the most stylish pieces from virtually all price points into one place for fashionand philanthropic-minded customers.” Pop-up boutiques in Nantucket, Mass., and Aspen, Colo., enable shoppers to find out more about the Malala Fund and other causes supported by Olivela (including Too Young to Wed, which works to end child marriage worldwide, and CARE, dedicated to poverty alleviation and education for refugees). “Our physical locations allow our customers to experience the effect their purchase is making to girls around the world,” says Boyd, herself the mother of two daughters. It’s all part of her ambitious goal “to make Olivela the ultimate philanthropic retail destination.”

(RIGHT) © HUMAN FOR THE MALALA FUND

PASSION BUYER

JCKONLINE.COM

3/7/19 2:45 PM


SHOP TALK

48

STORE WE ADORE 1258 FIFTH ST. NE WASHINGTON, D.C.

SHELTER

Shelter, a fine jewelry, gift, and accessories shop that debuted in D.C.’s trendy Union Market district last year, has the feel of a serene and stylish fashion boutique. But just beyond its tastefully glassed-off back wall is a full-fledged jewelry workshop where owner Mallory Shelter is often perched, at work on her namesake collection.

M

BY EMILI VESILIND PHOTOGRAPHY BY MORGAN HOWARTH

ALLORY SHELTER OPENED the shop in a former wholesale-industrial space across the street from Union ­Market—a local hot spot featuring artisanal food stalls—to retail her collection and highlight contemporary jewelry designers that weren’t formerly stocked in the nation’s capital. “I knew there wasn’t really a jewelry store in D.C. that was carrying lots of midrange fine jewelry,” she says. “There’s the super high-end with the security guard kind of store, and then there’s the really affordable [non-fine] jewelry store. I was interested in creating a store for that in-between.”

“People actually come in just to see her,” says Shelter of Foxy (above), store manager Damaris Hay’s dog. MARCH / APRIL 2019

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Shelter designed her store as a minimalist space so she could carry various product categories without worry that her wares would clash with bold decor. Also, “things like candles are gateways to other [purchases],” she notes. “Maybe someone buys a candle this time, but next time she graduates to jewelry.” Roomy shelves and tables are stocked with myriad

JEWELRY: MALLORY SHELTER

SAVVY EDIT

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49

(Right) Ariel Gordon necklaces; (below, far left) Alchemilla earrings

“People really like seeing that jewelry is being made.” —Mallory Shelter

gift-y items, including bowls of $3 loose crystals and swanky candles from Tatine and Night Space. There’s a tight edit of millennial-friendly clothes from Voloshin, Emerson Fry, Hackwith Design House, and other cute apparel brands and handbags and wallets by cool-girl accessories maker Clare V. Taped up beside the occasional product are handwritten notes (and Polaroid selfies) from staffers explaining their amour for that particular item.

making affordably priced furnishings and accessories look chic, and even expensive. Examples of this abound at Shelter: Gold-framed mirrors in various shapes hang in a sweet cluster above a table; they look like $200 mirrors that came off the wall of ABC Carpet & Home, but they’re actually from Target. The designer sourced the store’s vintage Moroccan-style rugs—covering the space’s polished concrete floors—on eBay. The white wall shelves were an Ikea score.

SHARED STORIES

HANDS ON

The shop’s fine jewelry collections, which include Suzanne Kalan, Bario Neal, Corkie Bolton, Zoë Chicco, Young in the Mountains, Ariel Gordon, and Page Sargisson, are displayed in elegant wood and glass-topped cases custom-crafted for Shelter by Asheville, N.C., furniture maker Foxwood Co. Next to each collection is a pretty printed card that shares a brief bio of the designer and brand. Shelter’s own collection, Mallory Shelter Jewelry, is filled with the kind of delicate 14k gold pieces many young women live in—think stackable rings with a single gemstone and lovely pendant necklaces.

Shelter, 30, says her core customer is the 30- to 50-year-old self-purchasing woman “who has disposable income and is excited about independent designers.” The fact that shoppers can observe her at work in the store—and know she can fix or customize pieces—is also a draw. “People really like seeing the bench and seeing that jewelry is being made,” she adds. “We’ve become desensitized to the fact that [artisans] actually make things, and I think we’re seeing a resurgence of people interested in the handmade.”

FLAIR SQUARED Shelter, who took courses at GIA and studied with local goldsmith and jewelry-making teacher Daniel Valencia ­before debuting her collection in 2012, has a knack for JCKONLINE.COM

JCK030119_048_SHOP_StoreWeAdore_v2.indd 49

DO YOU ADORE YOUR STORE? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

MARCH / APRIL 2019

3/7/19 4:12 PM


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51

the industry authority

MARCH / APRIL 2019

STAY AHEAD OF THE JEWELRY TRENDS

1

THE LOOK

2 HIP HOOP HOORAY! 1/ Monroe Crescent earrings with pink sapphires, black onyx, and diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $5,750; Sorellina; 646-7456831; sorellinanewyork.com

5

2/ Paper Flower Bypass hoops with akoya pearls, peach moonstone, and brown zircon in recycled 18k yellow gold; $3,350; Nak Armstrong; 787604-8839; nakarmstrong.com

3

4 Traditional hoops, beware! A new crop of side-facing stunners are coming full circle. BY RANDI MOLOFSKY

3/ Vertigo large Cameo hoops with carved agate and enamel in 18k white gold; $15,000; Stephen Webster; 212-2266160; stephenwebster.com

4/ Spectrum hoop earrings with turquoise and diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $15,960; Nikos Koulis; 866-301-MUSE; nikoskoulis.com

5/ Illusion Two-Row Statement hoops with diamonds in 18k rose gold; $9,010; Sara Weinstock; 213-2919888; saraweinstock.com

JCKONLINE.COM

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3/7/19 12:29 PM


the look

Q&A

52

Asks...

JULIE ROMANENKO

The Scottsdale, Ariz.–based artist behind Just Jules loves vintage detail and modern silhouettes WHENEVER WE’RE IN a blue mood—or, rather, in the mood for something blue—we visit Just Jules’ Instagram (@justjulesllc) and ogle the opals. “I am absolutely in love with opals,” says designer Julie Romanenko. Of course, opals go way beyond blue, and Just Jules’ jewels encompass more than just those iridescent gems. There are also her one-of-a-kind lockets, Roman coin pendants (“I love the idea of taking something old and revered…and bringing it to life again in a contemporary, modern-day silhouette”), and vintage-inspired engagement rings. As for the aforementioned opals, Romanenko is “celebrating” the stones in a collection debuting at this year’s Luxury show. “Stay tuned for more!” she teases. —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO Age: 54 Number of years in the biz: 28 Family and pets: My amazing and supportive husband, Dan, and my pup, Lola [pictured ]. Describe your personal style: Very casual but I always have on great jewelry! I have six bangles that I don’t ever take off— much to the dismay of the TSA workers when I travel. The single piece of jewelry you’re most proud of: I am ­especially proud of my Dreamcatcher bracelet that won MARCH / APRIL 2019

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NoVo Vintage opal and diamond pendant in 14k white gold on gray diamond beads

Australian black opal and diamond cocktail ring

first place in Gold Distinction in the MJSA Vision Awards. Best piece of advice you ever received: Back in 1991, I was at a crossroads and seriously contemplated going into my dad’s insurance business. His sales manager sat me down and asked if there was something that I was passionate about. When I responded “jewelry,” he encouraged me to follow my heart. Worst piece of advice: To get a “real job”! First job ever: I worked in a drugstore and had to put together the Sunday New York Times every week. That is no easy task. By the end of each day, my hands were black and I had a new appreciation for that newspaper that lasts to this day! How did you get started designing jewelry? My maternal grandmother loved jewelry and passed this love down to her daughters and granddaughters. I was a creative child, something else passed on from that grandmother. Put together the love of jewelry and my creativity…and a jewelry designer was born! If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing? I would bake full time. Jewelry you’re wearing right now: Six gold and diamond bangles, my wedding bands—my own, my mother’s, and my paternal grandmother’s—my maternal grandmother’s engagement ring, and rose-cut diamond drop earrings. Five items on your desk right now: A pile of jewelry waiting to be priced for a show; a mug that says peace; a wax of a diamond bangle waiting to be turned into something fabulous; a small pile of opals to inspire me; a picture of my husband and my dog. Five songs on your playlist: “Badlands,” Bruce Springsteen; “Mona Lisas and Mad Hatters,” Elton John; “Harvest Moon,” Neil Young; “Someone Like You,” Adele; “Moon River”—the song I got married to! Exercise regimen: Something every day: yoga, cardio, biking, weight training. What did you have for breakfast? Cappuccino and a cookie. Guilty pleasure: My husband’s amazing custom-made-for-me cappuccino I only have on the weekends. Drink (daytime/evening): Earl Grey tea/very cold sav blanc. Best part about living in Scottsdale: The beauty of the desert. Favorite movie: Toss-up between Breakfast at Tiffany’s ­[pictured] and Moonstruck. Who would play you in your life story? Sandra Bullock. Personal motto: “Be kind.”

BREAKFAST AT TIFFANY’S: EVERETT COLLECTION; FITNESS EQUIPMENT: ALENKADR/ISTOCK/GETTY

Just Jules’ MJSA-winning Dreamcatcher cuff

JCKONLINE.COM

3/7/19 2:37 PM


the look

RED CARPET

53

YOU BETTER WORK, BROOCH The pin is in! Let Billy Porter and Chadwick Boseman show you how it’s done. BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

BILLY PORTER

A thousand apologies for not r­ unning a photo showing the fabulous full-length ­fuchsia-lined cape that Porter—­nominated for the FX series Pose—wore with this custom Randi Rahm ensemble at the Golden Globes. (Google it; you won’t be sorry.) It’s only because the cape covered the trio of Oscar Heyman flower brooches on Porter’s jacket—the perfect finishing touch to Rahm’s intricately beaded, six-months-in-the-making design.

CHADWICK BOSEMAN

Perhaps taking a cue from fellow brooch aficionado Porter, Boseman also arrived at an event—the Screen Actors Guild Awards—with not one but three brooches lining his lapel. The Black Panther star donned a ­selection of 18k yellow gold and ­diamond Schlumberger clips from ­Tiffany & Co. And he didn’t stop there: We also spotted a Tiffany T ­bangle and two Tiffany T rings, all edged with pavé diamonds.

Platinum, diamond, and enamel gardenia brooch; $76,000; Oscar Heyman; 212-593-0400; oscarheyman.com

PORTER: SANTIAGO FELIPE/GETTY; BOSEMAN: WILLY SANJUAN/INVISION/AP

UNDER $5,000

UNDER $500

UNDER $500

Liquid PVD flower pin in hand-carved Lucite with crystal accents; $275; Alexis Bittar; 718-687-4144; alexisbittar.com JCKONLINE.COM

JCK030119_053_LOOK_RedCarpet.indd 53

Coronaria brooch/ pendant in platinumplated sterling silver with 14 ct. white topaz and 32 black freshwater pearls; $3,500; Alex Soldier; 212-3544244; alexsoldier.com

Fern lapel pin in rhodium-plated brass; $125; Tateossian; fadi@ tateossian.com; tateossian.com

Schlumberger Five Leaves clip in 18k gold with diamonds; $23,000; Tiffany & Co.

UNDER $5,000 Brooch in 18k green gold with 19.2k yellow gold leaves, 0.22 ct. t.w. platinum diamond stem, and 0.04 ct. green sapphire tip; $4,410; Aaron Henry; 213-623-4228; aaronhenry.com MARCH / APRIL 2019

3/7/19 12:48 PM


NEW LOCATI N

LAS VEGAS CONVENTION CENTER WE’LL GET YOU THERE!

The 2019 AGTA GemFair™ Las Vegas is moving to the Las Vegas Convention Center. And we’ll give you a FREE UBER CODE to get to and from the JCK and Couture Shows. Continue your GemFair experience with the most trusted colored gemstone and cultured pearl exhibitors and expand your possibility with The Collective: One Badge. One Hall. Three Shows. Register early and come join us.

MAY 30 – JUNE 3

800-972-1162

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info@agta.org

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PROP STYLIST: BEVERLEY HYDE

(Clockwise) Gabriel necklace in 18k white gold with 17.61 cts. t.w. diamonds, $136,000, Shee’s Fine Jewelry, natalie@ shees.com, shees. com; Eden lariat in 14k white gold with 5.46 cts. t.w. diamonds, $11,900, Shy Creation, info@shycreation. com, shycreation. com; mesh bracelet in 18k white gold with 11.5 cts. t.w. diamonds, $23,500, Ashi Diamonds, 212-319-8291, ashidiamonds.com

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FEATURES P h o t o g r a p h b y Pa t r i c i a He a l

3/7/19 1:02 PM


•••

PRO TIP

.

Stylist Beverley Hyde used natural elements, including driftwood and mushrooms, to achieve this organic look. This roughedged stone, she explains, ”is a type of sea rock you can buy in stores that would sell coral and crystals.“

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3/7/19 1:02 PM


ALL ABOUT THAT CASE DECOR SPECIAL

57

WITH A FEW EASY-TO-FIND PROPS THAT WON’T BREAK THE BANK, CREATE DISPLAYS THAT WILL STOP SHOPPERS IN THEIR TRACKS

P h o t o g r a p h y b y Pa t r i c i a He a l Prop St ylist Beverley Hyde Jewelry Editor Rima Suqi

O RGA N I C MOOD

There’s nothing traditional about these engagement rings—gray diamonds, anyone?— or their presentation

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(From far left) Selena diamond halo ring in 14k yellow gold with 0.63 ct. t.w. rose-cut diamonds, $4,025, Valerie Madison, 206-295-6395, valeriemadison.com; Ella ring in 14k yellow gold with 2.25 cts. t.w. diamonds, $5,900, Vale Jewelry, 212-398-2708, shopvale.com; Grande Crescendo flare ring in 18k yellow gold with 0.4 ct. t.w. diamonds, $5,000, KatKim, sales@

katkimfinejewelry.com; katkimfinejewelry.com; Branching Coral ring in 18k yellow gold with 0.56 ct. t.w. diamonds, $4,640, Kimberlin Brown, 917-478-8441, sales@ kimberlinbrown.com, kimberlinbrownjewelry. com; 18k rose and yellow gold ring with 2.14 cts. t.w. diamonds, $5,300, Avalina, 703-727-6585, avalinak.com; 14k rose gold ring with 1.21 cts. t.w. morganite and

diamonds, $2,458, Point No Point Studio, info@ pointnopointstudio.com, pointnopointstudio.com; Marie ring in 14k yellow gold with 0.4 ct. ruby and 0.21 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,550, 14k gold ring with 0.5 ct. sapphire and 0.025 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,920, Talon, 415-425-9276, talonnyc.com; Hyeres ring in 14k yellow gold with blue-green sapphire and diamonds, $3,450, Vale Jewelry

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•••

PRO TIP

Your gems may be flawless, but the blooms surrounding them don’t have to be. ”I like any flower that has a stem that is imperfect,“ says Hyde, who set our jewels on a moss backdrop. ”I love any wildflowers for this… even weeds.“

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59

R H A PSO DY I N B LU E & G R E E N

It might as well be spring year-round with these floral-friendly colored gems (From far left) Wham! Bang! Pow! necklace in silver and 22k and 18k yellow gold with 71.24 cts. t.w. emeralds, $92,160, Judy Geib, 917-514-1166, judygeib. com; uvarovite garnet and diamond pendant necklace in 18k yellow gold with black rhodium, $18,150, chrysocolla pendant with micropavĂŠ diamond cap in 18k white gold with black rhodium, $20,625, Kimberly McDonald, 646-2059994, kimberlymcdonald. com; 18k white gold necklace with 33.81 cts. t.w. diamonds and 82.37 cts. t.w. emeralds, price on request, Andreoli, 212-582-2050, andreoliusa.com;

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turquoise and diamond earrings in 18k white gold with black rhodium, $21,800, Kimberly McDonald; Venah necklace in rhodiumplated sterling silver with 23 cts. t.w. sapphires and 4.6 cts. t.w. diamonds, $5,500, Modern Moghul, 361-239-8799, modernmoghul.com; platinum ring with 8.45 cts. t.w. blue-green tourmaline, 0.32 ct. t.w. alexandrite, and 0.36 ct. t.w. diamonds, $22,000, Omi PrivĂŠ, 877-OMIGEMS, omiprive.com; 18k blackened gold bracelet with 68.53 cts. t.w. diamonds, price on request, Nina Runsdorf, 212-382-1243, ninarunsdorf.com

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•••

PRO TIP

That chipped bowl below is a terra-cotta saucer from a gardening store, reveals Hyde. She finds these eclectic items on beaches, at flea markets— anywhere she travels. “Everything is a treasure. There are no rules.“

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THE GOLD TYPE

Weathered wood and antique collectibles give these rich jewels a modern-heirloom vibe (From far left) Crownwork link bracelet in 18k yellow gold with 0.16 ct. t.w. diamonds, $8,965, Ray Griffiths Fine Jewelry, 212-6897209, raygriffiths. com; Enchanted Forest multirow Twig cuff in 18k yellow gold with 0.63 ct. t.w. diamonds, $17,000, Michael Aram, 646625-7990, michaelaram. com; 18k yellow gold and diamond tulip motif chandelier earrings, $15,360, Lalaounis, 212-439-9400, lalaounis. eu; Mirror Cabochon ring in 18k yellow gold with 0.7 ct. t.w. pavĂŠ diamonds, $7,500, Roule & Co., 212-475-9329, rouleandco.com; 18k

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yellow gold ring with 0.48 ct. t.w. diamonds, $4,125, 18k yellow gold ring with 5.88 cts. t.w. sapphires, $7,200, Page Sargisson Jewelry, 212-629-7092, pagesargisson.com; Diamond Torque cigar band in 14k yellow gold with 0.4 ct. t.w. diamonds, $6,400, Marion Cage, 504-891-8848, marioncage.com; Deco bracelet in 18k yellow gold with 131.04 cts. t.w. tanzanite and 2.92 cts. t.w. diamonds, $195,000, Temple St. Clair, 212219-8664, templestclair. com; 18k yellow gold necklace with diamonds, $11,840, Marco Bicego, 866-424-2346, us.marcobicego.com

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D

ESPITE ALL THE attention being paid to e-commerce and social media, the look and feel of your brick-and-­ mortar store are still vital to your brand identity—and, when done well, a key driver of sales. If it’s been a while since your interior has seen a refresh (or even a coat of paint), maybe it’s time for a change. We’re not necessarily talking about a full renovation: Even a smallscale reboot can bring in current trends and make your store more inviting.

A STUDY IN CONTRASTS

INSIDE PLAN DECOR SPECIAL

INDUSTRIAL GRAY, NATURAL TEXTURES, AND HIGH-SPARKLE LIGHTING: HERE’S HOW THE CHICEST JEWELRY RETAILERS ARE ADORNING THEIR STORES

by Martha C. White

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The industrial trend in residential and commercial design has not gone unnoticed by jewelry store owners. Likewise, the minimalist-boho vibe that rules Instagram style feeds (e.g., textured walls, woven textiles, live-edge furniture, and accents of Mongolian lamb) has trickled into the consciousness of style-forward jewelers. Embracing an industrial aesthetic characterized by metal and sharp lines while adding natural materials and organic shapes might seem like a contradiction, but cutting-edge retailers know the styles can coexist and even complement each other. Consider the following elements. Industrial-inspired color palette: Store owners are using lots of gray hues that evoke—or actually are—weathered metal. “Our steel walls and concrete floors are a nod to industrialism,” says Laura Mapes, co-owner of Alchemy Jeweler in Portland, Ore. Citing her co-owner David Iler’s background in the steel industry, she adds, “where we’re located is formerly an industrial area, so we wanted to maintain that aesthetic.” “One of our signature colors in our fonts and logo, our website, and our stores is a dark gray,” says Melissa Joy Manning, founder and designer of the eponymous jewelry brand. The silvery

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63 Opposite page: Melissa Joy Manning in Berkeley, Calif.; this page: (l.) Meeka Fine Jewelry; (r.) Esqueleto’s Oakland, Calif., location

“One of our signature colors in our fonts and logo, our website, and our stores is a dark gray.”

MELISSA JOY MANNING: DAN NAKAMURA ; ESQUELETO: ANGELA DeCENZO

—Designer-retailer Melissa Joy Manning

tone looks fresh among vintage wood shelves and cases in her Brooklyn, N.Y., and Berkeley, Calif., stores. Steel also shows up as a popular material in custom-made display cases, which, in turn, has shifted the thinking about jewelry store–appropriate colors. Keith Kovar, principal at retail design firm GRID/3 International in New York City, says distressed metallic finishes are in high demand right now, as are deep blues and grays. Feature walls that add a dash of lighter or brighter colors remain popular, he adds, because they act as a visual “palate cleanser” to break up the deeper colors. Natural textures: More and more store owners are dispensing with traditional velvet displays and utilizing organic materials in neutral hues to better showcase their merchandise. “A lot of independent [retailers] want to create their own image in terms of the props inside the cases,” Kovar says. “We’re seeing a much more natural approach. Everything from bits of plywood or chunks of glass to bits of metal—all kinds of background materials.” Manning sourced deadstock suede that matches her signature color and lined her cases in rich gray; Mapes ­incorporated leather, linen, and wood to bring organic elements to her industrial space. Lauren Wolf, owner and designer at Esqueleto, with locations in Los Angeles and Oakland, Calif.,

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­ isplays jewelry on trays lined with d beige linen. “The idea is the space being stark white, and bringing in that natural element to soften it a bit,” she says. Cases that invite rather than intimidate:

Some store owners think the typical counter-height case isn’t ideal because of the physical separation it creates between customers, staffers, and the jewelry itself. “A clunky display case doesn’t feel relevant or modern and may be intimidating,” says Wolf, who finds such cases suggest “an air of inaccessibility.” Many design-forward owners are opting to commission customized display pieces. Cases that allow customers to get up close and personal with the jewelry—sometimes without having to ask an employee for access—include wall-mounted shelving (a bonus for owners who lack square footage) along with freestanding, 360-degree pieces positioned so browsers feel free to stroll all the way around. Not only does an unconventional display make for a friendlier vibe, but it’s smart merchandising, says Pam Danziger, founder and president of Unity Marketing in Stevens, Pa. “You can look at a necklace or earrings at about the same level as you would wear them.” Lighting designed for interaction: As merchandise becomes more accessible, customers are more inclined to handle and try on pieces. However, says Wolf,

“when you bring the jewelry out of that case, if you don’t have proper lighting, the jewelry looks quite different.” Adds Kovar, “What is changing is [the quality of ] the lighting both in and above the case. Everything is going toward LEDs, and there are a lot more choices.” When Monika Krol, owner and designer at Meeka Fine Jewelry in Camp Hill, Pa., moved her store to a just-renovated building, a top priority was making sure the pieces on display retained their sparkle and luster inside and outside the case. “In the previous store, each of the cases had light inside, so [the jewelry] looked beautiful,” she says, an effect that faded when the jewelry was removed and displayed under track lighting. Her solution: traditional recessed lighting, plus recessed lights pointing directly on top of cases.

SHOW AND TELL Just as one of the hottest restaurant trends is the Food Network–fueled concept of diners watching the chef prepare their meals, jewelry retailers say bringing the workbench or CAD design station out of a back room animates customer interactions. “We’re not just selling jewelry; we have that whole live experience, the open-kitchen aesthetic,” says Mapes. “It can be valuable to let people see the magic behind the curtain,” observes

Danziger. Plus: An engaged customer may spend more time in the store. Alchemy offers not one but two spaces that show what’s behind the curtain, literally and figuratively. The store’s CAD specialist works adjacent to the front window with a computer monitor facing the street. “People can see jewelry being made in front of their eyes,” Mapes says. The interior bench workspace also is visible when customers are inside the store.

THE PERSONAL TOUCH In an age of online shopping and rampant commoditization, store owners and merchandising experts say retailers need to deliver an experience, not just a product. The ability “to touch, feel, and interact with the merchandise directly relates to how much they’ll spend,” Danziger says of today’s shoppers. Practically speaking, this translates into creating an atmosphere where customers feel content to browse and welcome to linger. “People say, ‘Oh my gosh, I want to live here,’ ” Wolf says of Esqueleto’s carefully curated space. “It’s an aesthetic they connect with outside of the jewelry.” Manning wanted her stores “to feel like the customer was walking in to the jewelry, as opposed to just walking into a place to buy. I wanted them to feel like this is a cool space and to think, I want to spend time in here.”

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PA RT 2 O F 6

J C K WO U L D B E N OW H E R E W I T H O U T T H E I N D U S T RY I N S I D E R S W H O H AV E H E L P E D T H E M A G A Z I N E A L O N G T H E WAY — B Y M A K I N G T H E NEWS, READING IT IN OUR PAGES, OR BOTH. SO WE ASKED 150 OF T H E M TO J O I N T H E D I A LO G U E A B O U T H OW T H E J EW E L RY BU S I N E S S H A S C H A N G E D O V E R T H E D E C A D E S A N D T H E R O L E W E H AV E P L AY E D I N T H AT E V O L U T I O N . H E R E A R E T H E S E C O N D 2 5 .

150 Y EA RS 150 VO I C ES By Rob Bates

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65 •••

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“This industry is both fast-moving and slow to change. One of the most important things is building connections. It is often difficult to find people looking for exactly what you’re offering. JCK has been invaluable in narrowing down this search and ­providing a great source of information for the trade.”

•••

“JCK came with the industry’s best reputation, personnel, editors, and content. I had to work hard not to mess that up! When I went into the archives at GIA and had to wear white gloves to read the first-ever publication from the 1800s, I knew it was a credible magazine!”

—KIRK KARAGUEZIAN, ­founder, Kirk Kara

“The reporting at JCK is ­top-notch, and its reporters are dedicated to getting it right. They consistently ­endeavor to understand the often-­ complicated matters that the JVC addresses and report them accurately. I look forward to the next 150 years!” —CECILIA GARDNER, legal adviser and former Jewelers Vigilance Committee CEO

—DAVID BONAPARTE, president and CEO, Jewelers of America, and former JCK Events senior vice president

•••

“My first job after college was at [ad agency] N.W. Ayer. By sheer luck I was assigned to the De Beers account. Thirty years later, I am even more passionate for the category. I’m excited for the evolution and change on the horizon. It will transform our businesses and the industry, and frankly I find it invigorating.” —CARYL CAPECI, president, Hearts On Fire

•••

STELLA SOLITAIRE ENGAGEMENT RING HAND ENGRAVING, FILIGREE, AND MIGRAINE EDGING, KIRK KARA; LAZARE DIAMOND ICICLE NECKLACE WITH 42 CTS. T.W. DIAMONDS IN PLATINUM, LAZARE KAPLAN

•••

“When I started at JCK, the clatter of manual typewriters still rang through the halls, and we used scissors and glue to cut and paste paragraphs. My first beats—legal issues, security, and insurance—would put most editors to sleep. I loved them! One year, over 50 people were killed in jewelry store crimes—a number that has never been matched. Russ Shor, Bill Shuster, and I collected personal information on all 50. Those stories took months. I’m in awe I worked for a magazine that allowed us such luxury of time.” —PEGGY JO DONAHUE, f­ reelance writer and former JCK editor-in-chief

“I’ve been in jewelry my entire professional career, more than 18 years. As a college journalism graduate, I moved to New York to find a fashion-writing job. Thankfully, I happened upon an opening at National Jeweler magazine. I visited mines in South Africa and Tanzania and attended trade shows all over the world. It was truly an education.” —RANDI MOLOFSKY, cofounder, For Future Reference, and JCK jewelry director

•••

“I have had the privilege of working in this unique, amazing, and ­occasionally crazy industry for more than 40 years. My first impression of JCK was to be ­impressed. That hasn’t changed. When ­other media outlets lose their heads, lose the plot, or simply indulge in sensationalism, JCK has ­ represented a d ­ ispassionate, professional, yet always ­entertaining source of information and views.” —ANDREW BONE, outgoing executive director, Responsible Jewellery Council

•••

•••

“I graduated college with a teaching degree and found no teaching positions open. An employment agency got me a job at Lazare Kaplan as a biller and typist. Bored, I started helping Leo Kaplan with marketing. Never in my wildest dreams would I have thought 45 years later I would still be at Lazare Kaplan, as vice president of marketing, but the job turned into a career. This industry is like no other. I have never looked back.” —MARCEE FEINBERG, vice president of marketing, Lazare Kaplan International Inc.

“My wife, Judy, and I are on our 45th year in the industry. As the world gets smaller and more connected, it feels like every morning we wake up in a slightly different industry. Yet at the end of the day, the jewelry world still revolves around the same core: people and relationships.” —STEVE PADIS, president, Padis Jewelry

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•••

“The industry has consolidated and become more digital. We have to do more with less, pivot, and be flexible. But that’s not a bad thing: The whole world has changed, and if we want to stay relevant to consumers, we must move with them. If anything, we need to change more.”

•••

“The 2008 global financial crisis had a big effect on the industry and made it difficult to be successful. What changed dramatically is that small companies have no way of surviving without great partnerships. This led us to a complete change in strategy. What has positively influenced our business is that consumers are always looking for authentic brands and unique, beautiful products.”

—SALLY MORRISON, chief marketing officer, Lightbox Jewelry

—LITA ASSCHER, president, Royal Asscher of America

••• “My industry career began about 40 years ago as a sales associate at an independent jeweler. That enabled me to pay for college. I remember asking, ‘What does JCK mean, anyway?’ [ JCK writer] Bill Shuster explained it to me: Jewelers was obvious; Circular was a parochial term for ‘newsletter’; Keystone was standard retail markup. I still never quite got how the three words complemented one another. But like all media, JCK has evolved and embraced the online world very effectively.” —DAVID BOUFFARD, vice president of corporate affairs, Signet Jewelers Ltd.

••• “JCK editors have been balanced in the way they report the news and don’t take easy answers to questions. This has led to a trust being developed; their take on a story is not fluff but real and thoughtful analysis.” —NANCY OREM LYMAN, vice president and executive director, Diamond Empowerment Fund

“Thirty-five years ago, I saw an industry that was archaic, mostly not open to change, and happy to continue business as usual. Thirty-five years down the road, many still hold on to those ideas. The new marketplace is more dynamic than ever, and it is important to be innovative and constantly ahead of the game.” —BRIAN GAVIN, owner, Brian Gavin Diamonds

“The jewelry industry has evolved more than we give ourselves credit for. We need to better inform the world how far we’ve come. When exposés first appeared about blood diamonds, our industry came together like no other to curtail the problems the best we could. This made our industry reflect about the products we sell and begin programs to give back to the communities where we operate.” —BRANDEE DALLOW, founder, Fine Girl Luxury Brand Building & Communications

••• ••• “In the last 10 years, consumers have evolved from wanting the same as their neighbor to wanting something that is different, unusual, rare, and unique. The consumer has more appreciation of jewelry as an art form rather than just an accessory.” —HAYLEY HENNING, vice president of sales and marketing, Greenland Ruby

“When I started, I knew nothing about diamonds, except that they were expensive and sparkled a lot. JCK was my entry into this industry, and I felt at home from the first moment I visited 47th Street. JCK has allowed me to have incredible experiences all over the world—plus lifelong friendships with [former JCK staffers] Hedda Schupak, Robert Weldon, and Ettagale Blauer. How valuable is that?” —RUSSELL SHOR, senior industry analyst, GIA, and former JCK senior editor

ASSCHER-CUT THREE-STONE DIAMOND RING, ROYAL ASSCHER

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67 •••

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“When I entered the industry in 1976, unlike most of my peers, I didn’t grow up in a family jewelry business. At first, the knowledge required to develop a jewelry business was overwhelming. JCK was an important resource to provide insights across a very complicated landscape.” —MICHAEL POLLAK, founder and CEO, Hyde Park Jewelers

“JCK was the first trade magazine I subscribed to. It was the one I got when I took a brief hiatus from the business to have children. It became my lifeline to staying connected. Over time, my consumption of media has shifted from glossy, oversized magazines to mostly digital media. JCKonline provides what I want, when I need it— though I still like glossy magazines!” —MONICA STEPHENSON, founder, Anza Gems and iDazzle.com

•••

•••

“I still have many JCK magazines from the ’40s and ’50s that had ­articles written about the work of my ­father [Carroll Chatham]. JCK was objective in its editorial ­reporting and became the standard of fairness. After all, no business lasts for 150 years if it’s not doing a good job!” —TOM CHATHAM, CEO, Chatham Created Gems and Diamonds

“The jewelry industry has shown continual, amazing resilience. We survived obstacles like the sixfold rise in gold prices, f­ollowed by a difficult ­recession. We now must deal with a challenging, ­knowledgeable ­consumer. The ­emphasis on brands and authentic ­storytelling, plus experiential ­purchases, is finally bringing ­marketing to an ­industry far behind others.”

••• “My jewelry education began at JCK. I came in as a writer, not a gemologist or designer, but thanks to the magazine’s reputation, I could call anyone in the business and get an interview. When I started, the industry was very staid and stagnant. After I attended my first JA shows, I saw companies’ offerings didn’t change from year to year. The jewelry was even in the same position in the showcases.” —ETTAGALE BLAUER, freelance writer and former JCK New York editor

•••

“I have been in the colored gemstone business since 1973. At the time, there were not many gemstone dealers in New York City, and at 23, I was one of the youngest. As the industry grew, it changed. Memo replaced courage to buy. Certificates replaced knowledge, trade shows replaced relationships, arrogance ­replaced humility, treatments replaced conscience, auctions replaced ­illusion, and finally the internet replaced romance.” —JOE MENZIE, owner, Joseph Menzie Inc.

—MARK HANNA, chief marketing officer, Richline Group

•••

NAMASTE ROUND-CUT MOUNTING AND BAND, SCOTT KAY

•••

“I have officially been in the jewelry industry for 23 years, and unofficially since I was born. That’s the nature of a family business. So much has changed in the last two decades. JCK is always on the forefront of what is going on. A lot of magazines have come and gone. JCK continues to be a quintessential part of our industry.”

“My father [Frederick Goldman] was progressive and

decided we needed three things to expand. One, we had to get our name out there. Two, we needed a WATS [800] line. And three, we needed our own sales force. One of our first JCK ads featured our customer service representative answering the phone. We promoted the 800 line in big block letters. Forty-five years later, we still have the same number.” — JONATHAN GOLDMAN, CEO, Frederick Goldman

—PAUL TACORIAN, CEO, Tacori

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PA RT F O U R

68

M A L LS OF AMERICA

BAL HARBOUR SHOPS 9700 Collins Ave. Bal Harbour, Fla.

JCK ’S ONGOING SERIES ON THE SHOPPING CENTERS FINDING S U C C E S S A M I D A N E V E R - C H A N G I N G R E TA I L L A N D S C A P E

BEVERLY HILLS HAS NOTHING ON BAL HARBOUR, SOUTH FLORIDA’S INTERNATIONALLY RENOWNED OPEN-AIR LUXURY RETAIL PARADISE b y E m i l i Ve s i l i n d

“Certain malls, you go to another wing and it’s a totally different look and feel. Not here. It will be total luxury always.”

“PUT THIS ON,” says Bobby Shafer, a ­dapper-suited sales associate at the Gucci boutique at Miami’s Bal Harbour Shops, as he spritzes a silk ribbon with the brand’s latest fragrance, Bloom. He ties the perfumed ribbon around my wrist and clasps both my hands lightly. “Now you can get into any club in South Beach,” he says, flashing a ­thousand-watt smile. “Tell the doormen Bobby sent you.” Tickled by this clever customer service, I float out into the mall’s main thoroughfare, where salty breezes from the nearby Atlantic Ocean softly circulate, commingling with the delicious scents of pricey artisanal candles burning at Diptyque, Santa Maria Novella, and other rarefied lifestyle brands with intentionally anemic retail portfolios. I flash back to an hour ago, when I’d downed a cone of bright pink gelato that tasted like fresh strawberries—only better—from Bianco Gelato on the floor above. Gazing down to the ground floor, beneath the diamond-studded windows of a Graff boutique, I spy a family of turtles with shells the size of tennis racket heads sunbathing on rocks in a pond glinting with koi fish. It’s official, I think. I’m in retail heaven.

OUTSIDE-THE-BOX THINKING Since opening in 1965 in Bal Harbour, a village located at the northern tip of Miami Beach, on land formerly used for World War II military barracks, Bal Harbour Shops has remained this way: airy, serene, and uncommonly luxurious. The developer, Stanley Whitman (son of a Chicago businessman), bucked the

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—Gotmar Giron, director of PR for Bal Harbour Shops

real estate trends of the day, most of which exalted the indoor mall, since air conditioning was considered new and exciting. Decades before open-air malls became showpieces of retail developers such as Caruso and Macerich, Whitman was determined to make Miami’s famously balmy climate an asset in his retail environment. He even reportedly configured the elevation of the Shops’ grounds to achieve the maximum flow of beach wind. Even more fundamental to his concept was attracting a collection of upscale brands. “Mr. Whitman had the vision of having the property be total luxury, and that standard has always been upheld,” says Gotmar Giron, director of public relations and special events for Bal Harbour Shops. And Whitman made it happen: He persuaded Neiman Marcus to open its first store outside of Texas at the Shops in 1971, which had a ripple effect. (The founder passed away in 2017 at 98; his grandson Matthew Whitman Lazenby now serves as president and CEO of the ­family-owned business, Whitman Family Development.) Today the mall boasts more high-end brands under one (metaphorical) roof than nearly any other shopping center in America. Think of it as a more humid Rodeo Drive, without the paparazzi gaggles and valet lines. Bal Harbour Shops currently has around 100 tenants—Giron says there’s always a waiting list and “every

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69

(Above, l.–r.) The two-story Salvatore Ferragamo boutique; Graff, designed by luxury retail specialist Peter Marino

Bal Harbour Shops’ clientele is 65 percent international— hailing largely from Brazil, Mexico, Colombia, Russia, and Canada. Many of those shoppers maintain a second home in Miami.

square inch of the Shops is leased at all times”—and many of the brands represented compose the top 1 percent of luxury labels. The jewelry and watch tenancy is deep: Audemars Piguet, Breguet, Buccellati, Chopard, Harry Winston, Hublot, IWC Schaffhausen, Officine Panerai, Pomellato, Richard Mille, Tiffany & Co., and Van Cleef & Arpels. Red-hot fashion brands Golden Goose, Zimmermann, and Balmain recently opened, and Versace is poised to debut its new store concept later this year. Meanwhile, a handful of the highest-performing brands, including Saint Laurent, Valentino, and La Perla, recently moved from one- to two-level stores that Giron describes as “townhome-style” units. “Many stores in the Shops need more space,” she explains. And soon they’ll get it.

THE 8-YEAR, $400 MILLION PLAN The intimate-feeling shopping center is in the midst of its biggestever expansion: a $400 million, 350,000-square-foot addition that will roll out in three stages in the next six to eight years. It will make room for roughly 70 new boutiques and a 53,000-squarefoot Barneys New York (the first in Florida), housing its popular Freds restaurant. Barneys will become the Shops’ third anchor, joining Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue, which opened in

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1976. The new development is set to swallow a large parking lot and transform the mall’s third floor, which had been used mainly for storage and only recently welcomed its first tenants. As a privately owned company, Whitman Family Development doesn’t release sales figures often, but its ­remarkably high per-square-foot sales are legendary in the retail industry. In Green Street Advisors’ 2016 report (its latest) on the top 10 malls in the United States by sales, the 520,000-square-foot Shops took the No. 1 spot with a stunning $3,185 in sales per square foot. For comparison, local rival the Aventura Mall came in at fifth place, with $1,595 in sales per square foot, and the average for U.S. malls was under $1,000. More recently, Whitman ­revealed that per-square-foot sales for January 2018 were up 23 percent from the previous January. And according to the company, sales at Bal Harbour Shops have increased every single year since its opening in 1965, with two exceptions: the period following the 9/11 terrorist attacks and the 2008 economic recession. Yet sales alone don’t reel in this caliber of brands. Because the center is a destination, opening a store within its lushly landscaped halls offers companies instant exposure—and the chance to align their brand with some of the swankiest on the planet. The idea that a mall—a shell for tenants, really—can elevate a brand simply by housing it may sound like fiction in 2019. But Bal Harbour is one of the few remaining properties still possessing that retail fairy dust.

EVERYTHING’S GOOD I cap off my morning of wandering around the center with lunch at Carpaccio—easily the scene-iest restaurant of the Shops’ six eateries. From my patio perch, surrounded by an array of garrulous, beautifully dressed diners, I have a clear view of the “premium” parking lot, home of a popular annual collectible and exotic car show (and a general see-and-be-seen spot for luxury-car lovers). A young, tall waiter soon appears at my side. “What’s good here?” I ask with a smile, trying not to get distracted by the parade of shiny Beamers, Mercedes, Range Rovers, and classic muscle cars slipping in and out of the lot. He looks bemused at the question. “Everything,” he firmly states. And I believe him.

3/8/19 1:36 PM


SPOTLIGHT

S F P

I I L

L N A

V D Y

I B

E N O

G O

R S K

FROM GEOMETRIC SILHOUETTES TO BIG CHAIN LINKS TO S C U L P T U R A L S TAT E M E N T E A R R I N G S , T H E S E A R E T H E W H I T E - M E TA L S T Y L E S FA S H I O N - F O RWA R D R E TA I L E R S A R E S N A P P I N G U P T H I S S E A S O N

By Randi Molofsky Digital artwork by Alfredo Ceballos

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71 (From far left) Suzanne earrings in sterling silver, $390, Sophie Buhai, sales@sophiebuhai. com, sophiebuhai. com; Dot Double Coil bracelet in sterling silver, $905, John Hardy, 888-8383022, johnhardy. com; Dune ring in sterling silver, $205, kAuge by Kothari, contact@ kotharijewelry.com, kaugebykothari. com; wide Pyramid pleated cuff in sterling silver, $630, Perez Bitan, info@ perezbitan.com, perezbitan.com; mini Pom Pom earrings in sterling silver, $250, Annie Costello Brown, info@annie costellobrown.com, anniecostello brown.com

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72

CRYSTALS (PREVIOUS PAGE): DAFINCHI/ISTOCK/GETTY; NASTYA 81/ISTOCK/GETTY (2)

(Clockwise from top) 925 Classico Hammered Oval Chandelier earrings in sterling silver, $995, Ippolita, sales@ippolita.com, ippolita.com; silver and rhodium-plated cuff, $475, Jennifer Fisher, 888-2550640, jenniferfisher jewelry.com; 27 mm Wellesley link cuff with diamonds in sterling silver, $3,650, David Yurman, 888-3987626, davidyurman. com; Carmine large hoops in sterling silver, $286, Jennifer Zeuner, 917-838-1354, jenniferzeuner.com

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(Clockwise from top) Kalahari earrings in sterling silver, $295, Ariana Boussard-Reifel, hello@marteau. co, arianaboussard reifel.com; Masika earrings in sterling silver with a baroque Tahitian pearl, $168 each (sold separately), Pernille Lauridsen, 45-222-57-081, pernillelauridsen. com; XL Hook earring in sterling silver, $590 each (sold separately), Charlotte Chesnais, merci@ charlotte chesnais. com, charlotte chesnais.fr; Lancet earrings in sterling silver, $265, Closer by Wwake, wholesale@ wwake.com, closer bywwake.com

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COU N T D OW N TO T H E SA N DS

STRIP PLANNER A LOT HAS CHANGED ON THE NORTH END OF THE STRIP IN THE EIGHT YEARS JCK LAS VEGAS HAS BEEN A W A Y . H E R E ’ S T H E S C O O P.

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By Matt Villano

3/8/19 10:52 AM


• PA R T 2 •

75 (Clockwise from top) The Palazzo and Venetian towers; the NoMad Bar; Penicillin at the Dorsey; Cannabition; On the Record; the Factory Kitchen; Electra; Oscar winner Lady Gaga; the Champagne call button at Rosina

UCK MAY COME and go in Las Vegas, but one c­ onstant is change. With new casinos, new restaurants, new nightclubs, and new diversions around town, whole chunks of Sin City will look seriously different than they did during even last year’s JCK Las Vegas. To help you eat and drink your way around JCK Las Vegas’ new home—the Sands Expo and the Venetian Resort—we’ve put together a guide to all the can’t-miss spots in and around the show. But we couldn’t stop there. We also hit up the latest and greatest hot spots elsewhere on The Strip and around town.

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3

1

COU N T D OW N TO T H E SA N DS

2

Where to drink: Under mixologist

ON CAMPUS AT THE

VENETIAN RESORT LAS VEGAS

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Sam Ross, the Venetian Resort Las Vegas—the new umbrella name for the Venetian and Palazzo hotels—has become a force on the Vegas craft cocktail scene. All told, the Venetian’s Cocktail Collective operates three bars in the casino resort. The newest of the bunch, Electra Cocktail Club (1), sits right on the Palazzo casino floor and is famous for its tiki-style concoctions such as a peach daiquiri with white rum, rhum agricole, peach, and lime, and The Trouble Maker, with vodka, sweet vermouth, cucumber, lemon, and strawberry. Also in the Palazzo is Rosina (5), a smaller, quieter, and more private haunt with tufted-leather booths, a secret mint julep menu, and a button you push whenever you want Champagne (seriously). The flagship is The Dorsey, a lively (sometimes downright hopping) bar just off the casino floor at the Venetian. This is where Ross himself patrols the scene, mixing up shareable punch bowls and orders of the best-selling Penicillin with scotch, fresh lemon, ginger, and honey. If you order one drink on the property, make it this one. Even if nothing ails you, you’ll feel better in the morning.

Where to eat: Vegas foodies lost their collective minds in late December with the opening of Mott 32 (2), the first U.S. outpost of the iconic Hong Kong eatery. The restaurant, on the casino floor at the Palazzo, features a host of culturally significant dishes, including bird’s nest soup, dim sum, and Peking duck, which guests must order two days in advance. It’s also just a beautiful space—designer Joyce Wang merged New York industrialism with classic Chinese touches. Elsewhere at the Venetian complex, the trattoria-style Factory Kitchen opened late last year and has been wowing diners with its handkerchief pasta ever since. For something totally different (or to nurse a nasty hangover), check out the comfort food at Black Tap (4). The Vegas outpost of this New York chain offers a host of burgers and fries and is famous for its milkshakes, which can be made with booze. We’d be remiss not to mention SushiSamba (6), the PeruvianBrazilian-Japanese fusion joint in the Grand Canal Shoppes. The steak-andsushi restaurant has existed for the better part of a decade, but the flavors are still as fresh as ever.

What else to do: Gamblers at both the Venetian and Palazzo will notice newly added group baccarat and blackjack environments (3), where one live dealer manages multiple players betting from independent wagering stations connected by video. The Venetian also has Fortune Cup, the modern (and super high-tech) version of Sigma Derby, a coin-operated horse-racing game. Human Nature, a musical group composed of four men, thrills crowds with its seemingly limitless range of genres—the current Jukebox show incorporates everything from doo-wop and soul to pop. We dare you to resist the urge to dance.

(PREVIOUS SPREAD) NOMAD: BENOIT LINERO; LADY GAGA: KEVIN MAZUR/GETTY; (THIS SPREAD) BLOCK 16: ALAN WEINER; MOB MUSEUM: CHRIS WESSLING

4

3/8/19 10:52 AM


• PA R T 2 •

77

OFF CAMPUS ELSEWHERE ON THE STRIP AND AROUND TOWN 5

Park MGM is all new: Toward the end of 2018, the property formerly known as Monte Carlo officially became Park MGM, and the revamped resort bears almost no similarity to its predecessor. Newcomers include Vegas outposts of Bavette’s Steakhouse & Bar and Eataly; Best Friend, a Korean barbecue joint from beloved Los Angeles chef Roy Choi; On the Record, a nightclub from L.A. nightlife impresarios Mark and Jonnie Houston; and a theater that opened with a Lady Gaga residency. There’s also a new NoMad Restaurant and the NoMad Bar, which hosts a delicious and lively Sunday jazz brunch. Palms gets a makeover: Back in the

6

1990s, the Palms Casino Resort was the hottest spot in town. Thanks in part to a makeover with a price tag of more than $600 million, new owner Station Casinos hopes to get the Palms rocking again. Among the draws: the resort’s 2.0 version of Vetri Cucina, which boasts the Vegas debut of Philadelphia chef Marc Vetri; Sara’s (9), a 45-seat supper club from chef Michael Symon; and a modernized Pearl p ­ erforming arts venue. Perhaps the gem of the new Palms is Mr. Coco (10), a luxury cocktail lounge tucked away in the Fantasy Tower.

Bellagio goes Insta-crazy: The newest

exhibit at the Bellagio Gallery of Fine Art is an infinity-mirror room from Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama. Yes, the installation makes for great Instagram pix, but it’s also a little bit like sex as a middle-ager—you wait in the queue for 15 minutes and have 45 seconds of glory until it’s over.

Palace Station adds swagger: Movie lovers will adore the latest addition to the newly renovated Palace Station Hotel & Casino, just east of The Strip: a high-definition theater with recliner seats, a full bar, a full menu, and table service to boot. The property still houses The Oyster Bar, an 18-seat raw bar where regulars wait hours for a spot.

Cosmopolitan has a secret: The

Downtown Las Vegas gets high:

newest foodie destination at The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas is five eateries in one. Block 16 bills itself as an “urban food hall” and boasts doughnuts, hot wings, and hand rolls, to name a few. Pro tip: Look for the back door bearing the image of a donkey to gain entrance to a tequila and mezcal speakeasy named Ghost Donkey (7). You’re welcome.

Downtown Vegas remains a ­favorite destination, and two attractions are drawing plenty of attention. The newer one, Cannabition—a museum dedicated to all things ­cannabis—­features a 35-foot bong. The other, The Underground (11), which sits beneath the Mob Museum, brews its own beer, and is designed to replicate speakeasies from the 1930s.

Wynn/Encore attracts an icon:

Wynncore survived Steve Wynn’s #MeToo scandal and opened the new Wynn Plaza Shops in late 2018. Without question, the big attraction here is a Vegas outpost of Cipriani (8), an Italian restaurant that prides itself on being the birthplace of the Bellini (the peach and prosecco ­cocktail invented in 1948 at Harry’s Bar in Venice by Giuseppe Cipriani).

Plus…anger-management alternatives:

Las Vegas recently added two other attractions for those who need to blow off steam: Sin City Smash, where guests pay to inflict rage on a room and its contents, and Axehole Vegas, an ax-throwing club that serves beer and wine. After days of working the show floor, consider these your therapy. 8 9

7

10

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11

3/8/19 10:53 AM


2019 JEWEL ERS’ CHOI CE AWARDS

THE WINNERS WE’RE RINGING IN THE 12th ANNUAL JCK JEWELERS’ C H O I C E AWA R D S W I T H A P I N K A N D W H I T E D I A M O N D G R A N D P R I Z E W I N N E R, P LU S 45 M O R E O F YO U R F E L LOW R E TA I L E R S ’ F AV O R I T E P I E C E S

Photograph by Hannah Khymych St ylist Nina Sterghiou Jewelry Editor Rima Suqi

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Cuff ring with 1.1 cts. t.w. white diamonds and 3.54 cts. t.w. fancy pink diamonds in 18k pink and white gold; $16,000; Mizrahi of Beverly Hills; 310-2738174; mizrahidiamonds.com

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JEWEL ERS’ CH OICE AWA R DS

80

1

B EST B R I DAL D ES I G N

2

1

OVER $5,000

Deco Dream ring with 2.09 ct. emerald-cut center diamond and 12 additional baguettes in platinum; $45,500; Marisa Perry Atelier; 212-566-8977; marisaperry.com

2

$2,501–$5,000

Flaming Beauty earrings with 26 cts. t.w. cushion-cut morganite and marquise and round diamonds; $4,702; CKC Sons; 91-80-41001869; ckcjewellers.com

3

UNDER $2,500

18k rose gold engagement ring with knifeedge band and crown set with 58 round diamonds; $1,900 (without center stone); Noam Carver–CrownRing Bridal House; 514-381-1589; crownring.com

B EST STAT EMENT P I EC E

4

OVER $30,000

One-of-a-kind 20.09 ct. oval diamond ring; $4,200,000; Norman Silverman; 213-687-3985; normansilverman.com

5

$10,000–$30,000

4

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5

Pendant with 5.57 ct. Mexican fire opal cabochon, 40 faceted round Mexican fire opals, 0.7 ct. pear-shape colorless opal, and 0.47 ct. t.w. tsavorite cabochons in 18k gold; $28,000; Grace Hays & Robert Russell; shopthegemgarden.com delacroixjewels.com

(PREVIOUS PAGE) TOP: SOLID AND STRIPED; 18K WHITE GOLD DROP EARRINGS WITH 18.18 CTS. T.W. ROUGH FACETED GRAY DIAMONDS, $28,250, SYLVA & CIE, SUSAN@SYLVACIE.COM; SILHOUETTE BRACELET IN 18K WHITE GOLD WITH 3.5 CTS. T.W. DIAMONDS, $28,700, KWIAT, 212-223-1111, SALESTEAM@KWIAT.COM, KWIAT.COM; 18K WHITE GOLD TENNIS BRACELET WITH 8.5 CTS. T.W. DIAMONDS, $28,000, SHEE’S FINE JEWELRY, NATALIE@SHEES.COM, SHEES.COM

3

3/8/19 11:12 AM


82

BEST BR ACE LET D ESIGN

7

8 6

6

7

OVER $10,000

Sapphire and diamond bracelet in 18k white gold; $15,389; Beverley K; 619-465-4789; beverleyk.com

COLORE D DIA M OND J EW ELRY

9

10

$2,501–$10,000

Sterling silver bracelet with Swiss blue topaz, CZ, and white enamel; $3,000; Dimitrios Exclusive; info@kapsaskisjewelry.gr; kapsaskisjewelry.gr

8

UNDER $2,500

Hand-painted green and multicolored Italian enamel Chameleon bangle with olive, amethyst, aquamarine, and ruby stones in rhodium-plated sterling silver; $675; Belle Étoile; 415-626-9223; belleetoilejewelry.com

9

OVER $10,000

Cuff ring with 1.1 cts. t.w. white diamonds and 3.54 cts. t.w. fancy pink diamonds in 18k pink and white gold; $16,000; Mizrahi of Beverly Hills; 310-273-8174; mizrahidiamonds.com

10

UNDER $10,000

White and fancy color diamond semimount in 18k three-tone gold; $4,485 (without center stone); Mira Style Jewellery Co.; info@mirastyle.com; estore.mirastyle.com

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JEWE LERS’ CHOIC E AWARDS

83

12

13 11

11

OVER $10,000

Earrings with 5.12 cts. t.w. kiteshape diamonds and 4.01 cts. t.w. emerald-cut diamonds in 18k white gold; $150,000; Rahaminov Diamonds; 213-622-9866; rahaminov.com

B EST EAR R I NG D ES I G N

12

$2,501–$10,000

Modern hoops in white gold with 1.73 cts. t.w. diamond pavé; $4,000; Shy Creation; 213-6238900; shycreation.com

13

UNDER $2,500

Larimar earrings in 14k white gold; $1,500; Alamea Hawaii; 808-9225333; alameahawaii.com

G O LD JEW ELRY

14

OVER $2,500

Handmade brushed 18k yellow gold hinged cuff with bezel-set melee and pavé diamond edges; $23,000; Jye’s International; 415-6218880; jyescorp.com

UNDER $2,500

14

Flexible wraparound Omega Spiral bracelet in 14k yellow gold with 0.14 ct. t.w. diamonds; $2,150; Royal Chain Group; 800-6220960; royalchain.com

15

15

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84

CO N TE M PO R A RY M ETA L J EW E L RY

16

OVER $10,000

PLATINUM JEWE LRY

Platinum Art Deco–style fine blue sapphire and diamond ring; $10,875; Michael Schofield & Co.; 800-637-4361; michaelschofield.com

18

17

ALL PRICE POINTS

UNDER $10,000

Vintage platinum round halo engagement ring; $3,015 (without center stone); Gabriel & Co.; 212-519-1400; gabrielny.com

Tungsten 8 mm grooved band with black PVD and rose gold plating; $329; Stuller; 800-8777777; stuller.com

19 21

20

20

19

OVER $10,000

Platinum 16-inch collar with 2.1 ct. bezel-set diamond fit into a 14 mm black onyx and 0.36 ct. t.w. diamond pendant bail in platinum; $22,700; Joden World Resources; 800-747-7552; joden.com

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$2,501–$10,000

B EST NEC K LAC E D ES I G N

Necklace in 18k yellow gold with 3.57 ct. free-form Australian opal and 0.27 ct. t.w. round brilliant diamonds; $4,595; Parlé Jewelry Designs; 800-635-9800; parlegems.com

21

UNDER $2,500

Necklace in 14k rose gold with 3.3 ct. purple garnet and diamonds; $2,499; Parlé Jewelry Designs

3/8/19 11:12 AM


JEWE LERS’ CHOIC E AWARDS

85

22

22

OVER $10,000

Ring with 58.05 ct. natural rectangular emerald-cut teal (greenish-blue) indicolite tourmaline, 5.33 cts. t.w. shield-shape diamonds, and 1.4 cts. t.w. single-cut diamonds in platinum; $100,000; Joden World Resources; 800-747-7552; joden.com

23

23

$2,501–$10,000

Hommage à Vincent van Gogh Éternité ring with fire-enamel inlay and diamonds in 18k gold; $4,785; FreyWille; 800-801-4094; freywille.com

24

BEST RING D ESIGN

TA N ZANITE J EW ELRY

25

24

UNDER $2,500

Ring with 1.9 ct. lotus garnet and 0.2 ct. t.w. diamonds in rose gold; $1,795; Parlé Jewelry Designs; 800-635-9800; parlegems.com

26

25

OVER $10,000

Jonathan Duran Fire Blossom ring with 15.1 ct. cushion-cut tanzanite, diamonds, and Australian opal inlay in 14k yellow gold; $28,000; Ambience; 505-983-6540; ambiencejewelry.com

UNDER $10,000

Art Deco–inspired ring with 5.52 ct. peacock tanzanite and 1.05 cts. t.w. round brilliant diamonds; $9,595; Parlé Jewelry Designs; 800-635-9800; parlegems.com

26

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86

DIA M OND J EW ELRY

27

28

27

29

OVER $10,000

28

$2,501–$10,000

Exotic Orchid flower ring with 19.45 cts. t.w. pavé diamonds in 18k white gold; $68,000; Siera Jewelry; 213-623-6370; sierajewelry.com

Emette eternity band with baguette and round diamonds in 18k white gold; $5,999; Dinaro Creations; 516-439-5200; dinarocreations.com

29

UNDER $2,500

Pear-shape drop earrings with 1.35 cts. t.w. diamonds in rose gold; $2,199; Dinaro Creations

PEA R L JEWELRY

30

OVER $2,500

Flexible necklace with 34 akoya pearls and 4.79 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $28,000; Yoko London; 212-819-9400; yokolondon.com

31

UNDER $2,500

Akoya pearl pendant in 14k white gold with 0.54 ct. t.w. diamonds; $2,350; Alamea Hawaii; 808-922-5333; alameahawaii.com

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JEWE LERS’ CHOIC E AWARDS

87

CO LO RE D STO N E J EW E L RY

33

32

34

32

OVER $10,000

33

Convertible titanium earrings with 7.02 cts. t.w. indicolite tourmalines, 4.25 cts. t.w. white diamonds, 1.106 cts. t.w. Paraiba tourmalines, 0.81 ct. t.w. tsavorites, and 18k white gold; $59,350; Graziela Gems; 800961-1170; grazielagems.com

$2,501–$10,000

Pendant with 7 ct. morganite and 0.37 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k white and rose gold; $7,900; Denny Wong Designs; info@dennywong. com; dennywong.com

34

$2,500 & UNDER

Cluster ring with tourmaline, emeralds, and white diamonds in 14k white gold; $2,500; Anye Designs; info@anyedesigns.com; anyedesigns.com

MEN’S JEW ELRY

35 36

OVER $1,000

Moonlight men’s bracelet with labradorite beads and 18k rose gold–encased South Sea pearl and 18k rose gold clasps; $1,895; William Henry; 503-434-9700; williamhenry.com

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UNDER $1,000

Phillip Gavriel men’s leather knot bracelet with sterling silver twisted cable; $460; Royal Chain; 800-622-0960; royalchain.com

3/8/19 11:13 AM


88

S I LVER JEW ELRY

37

37

39

39

OVER $1,000

Hammered sterling and black rhodium–plated Zebra ring with diamonds; $1,210; Lika Behar; 201-933-7200; likabehar.com

38

38

UNDER $500

Silver white sapphire fashion ring; $175; Gabriel & Co.; 212-5191400; gabrielny.com

$501–$1,000

Adina lapis bangle with pavé-set white stones in rhodium-plated sterling silver; $695; Belle Étoile; 415-626-9223; belleetoilejewelry.com

40

M IXED METAL JEWELRY

P E RSO NA L I Z E D J EW E L RY

OVER $1,000

Stockholm Crosswire open cuff bracelet in 24k hammered fusion gold and oxidized silver with diamonds; $2,070; Lika Behar; 201-933-7200; likabehar.com

41

UNDER $1,000

Stockholm New stacking ring in oxidized silver and 24k gold with diamonds; $770; Lika Behar

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42

ALL PRICE POINTS

Personalized ring in two-tone 10k rose and white gold with 0.5 ct. t.w. diamonds (also available in 14k and 18k gold); $1,999; Malo Creations; 800-665-6256; malobands.com

3/8/19 11:13 AM


JEWE LERS’ CHOIC E AWARDS

89

LAB- GROWN D IAM OND AND/ OR GE M STONE JEWE LRY

BEST P RI CE PO I N T

44

43

ALL PRICE POINTS

$1,000 & UNDER

Signature halo Hearts & Arrows statement ring with 10 mm round Forever One moissanite and marquise- and oval-cut accents (total diamond equivalent weight: 5.11 cts.) in 14k rose gold; $4,949; Charles & Colvard; 877-202-5467; charlesandcolvard.com

45

OVER $500

Hand-painted blue and black Italian enamel Delano bangle with pavé-set stones in rhodium-plated sterling silver; $525; Belle Étoile; 415-626-9223; belleetoilejewelry.com

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Adjustable (16- and 18-inch) 18k rose, white, and yellow gold necklace with 0.5 ct. t.w. bezel-set diamonds; $1,000; Neon Gems; 213-627-0433; neongems.com

FAS H I O N/ B R I D G E JEW ELRY

46

UNDER $500

Hand-painted translucent sea-blue Italian enamel Marina bangle with white stones in rhodium-plated sterling silver; $495; Belle Étoile

3/8/19 11:13 AM


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91

the industry authority

MARCH / APRIL 2019

THE ESSENTIAL JEWELRY GUIDE

the vault GLOBAL SUMMIT Fifteen artisans worked on the

earrings, which were made in Boschi’s Bangkok atelier. The emeralds were sourced from Brazil, the spinels hail from a Sri Lankan mine, and the opals “came in a large parcel to Bangkok from Australia,” recalls Boschi, adding that the tricky task of cutting the fragile gemstones was left to “the dearest Lebanese artisans” his atelier typically calls on, “who are specialized in these types of unique projects.”

MIX MASTER

The earrings were fabricated in 18k white and rose gold with 1.09 cts. t.w. pear-shape diamonds, 1.25 cts. t.w. baguette-cut diamonds, 4.79 cts. t.w. diamond accents, 4.34 cts. t.w. pear-shape emeralds, 13.86 cts. t.w. Australian opals in a mix of shapes, and 6.58 cts. t.w. lavender pear-cut spinels.

PLAYING BOTH SIDES

HIDDEN REVEAL In a nod to Mughal Empire–era

jewelry tradition, the backs of the earrings—which can shed components to yield a lightweight stiletto style, accommodate a hanging pearl, and even become a pendant— are decorated to the hilt with diamonds and a floral pattern in multihued enamel.

THE LABYRINTHINE HALLWAYS of India’s City Palace of Jaipur, which are ever in bloom with colorful floral frescoes dating back to the 1700s, were the inspiration for these dazzling 18k gold and gemstone danglers—dubbed the Maharajah Frescoes earrings—by Alessio Boschi. During a recent visit to the palace, the Bangkok-based designer became “incredibly inspired by that botanical encyclopedia of flowers” in the fresco designs, along with “the mathematical precision of the patterns and the endless swirls running one after another.” —EMILI VESILIND JCKONLINE.COM

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18k yellow gold and light blue plique-àjour enamel pendant with 0.2 ct. t.w. rubies on 18k gold chain; $2,750

18k yellow gold and cognac vitreous enamel Sima ring with 0.44 ct. t.w. blue sapphires; $2,500

Enamel and 18k rose gold hoop earrings with rose quartz; $2,700; nsrjewelry.com

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

PLIQUE-À-JOUR THING In the crowded landscape of contemporary jewelry design, it’s rare to discover a collection that feels ­genuinely fresh. But that’s the case with Andy Lif, the Los Angeles– based brand founded by designer Andy “Lif ” Lifschutz. The atelier’s Speed of Color series marries buttery 18k yellow gold with vibrant colored gemstones (sapphires, ­garnets, tourmalines, and colored diamonds) and equally electric enamel, achieved through the ancient plique-à-jour technique that creates a stained-glass look. Lifschutz says the old-meets-new collection of rings, earrings, and pendant necklaces was inspired by his “love of ­craftsmanship, culture, and both the beauty and grit of life.” Viva colore! —EMILI VESILIND

18k yellow gold and red plique-à-jour enamel Perfect Huggies earrings with 0.55 ct. t.w. rubies; $2,500

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HOT STOCK TIP

HIP HOOP DON’T STOP 18k yellow gold Midnight Blue ring with a 2.7 ct. celestial-cut African sapphire and 0.25 ct. t.w. blue accent sapphires; $9,000; Andy Lif; info@andylif.com; andylifjewelry.com

These chic 18k rose gold, black enamel, and rose quartz earrings from New York City–based jewelry designer Nina Runsdorf pair two trends currently reigning in jewelry: glossy enamel and a hoop design. The style’s pink-and-black palette was cribbed from the colors of artist Richard Prince’s Untitled (Cowboy), which depicts a cowboy riding a sepia-tinted horse. But no horsing around: These über-wearable earrings feel like surefire sellers for spring/summer. —EV

ALL THE JEWELS WE SAW IN TUCSON! SEE jckonline.com/topics/coloredstones FOR THAT AND MORE. JCKONLINE.COM

3/8/19 1:21 PM


M AY 3 0 - J U N E 3 , 2 0 1 9 THE SANDS EXPO & CONVENTION CENTER LAS VEGAS, NV

NOW 5 DAYS LONG & STARTING ONE DAY BEFORE JCK JIS Exchange is the premier at-show delivery event during Las Vegas Jewelry Week. In partnership with JCK Las Vegas, JIS Exchange 2019 will be held alongside JCK and LUXURY

in the Sands Expo & Convention Center on the 3rd Floor, featuring Fashion & Silver exhibitors that each specialize in and transact in at-show delivery. This is your destination

to purchase all the instant inventory you need as you head into the Fall selling season.

LEARN MORE AT JISSHOW.COM/EXCHANGE

REGISTER TO ATTEND OR APPLY TO EXHIBIT TODAY! S TAY C O N N E C T E D | # J I S S H O W

IN PAR T NERSHIP W IT H

LAS VEGAS


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14k rose gold arc-shaped pendant necklace with 0.15 ct. pear-shape diamond and 0.2 ct. t.w. diamond pavé; $1,595; Own Your Story; 571-435-7717; ownyourstory.us

14k rose gold and black rhodium– plated gold ear climbers with 0.25 ct. t.w. diamonds and 0.27 ct. t.w. black diamonds; $1,195

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

BLACK AND WHITE ALL OVER

14k rose gold ring with a 0.06 ct. baguette-cut diamond center and 0.12 ct. t.w. black diamond pavé; $550

14k rose gold ring with a 0.1 ct. marquise-cut diamond center and 0.13 ct. t.w. round-cut white diamonds; $695

Third-generation Turkish jewelry brand Own Your Story only recently began distributing in the United States and Canada. Among its most sophisticated collections (now available stateside!) is the Linear series—accessibly priced 14k gold and diamond pieces that explore the endless ­possibilities of a simple line form. Its necklaces, rings, bracelets, and earrings are thin in proportion but long on drama: The basic diamond bar necklace gets a gentle arc and a pear-shape diamond offset to one side, while standard hoop earrings are elevated with the addition of diamond-studded slashes. In jewelry design, the devil’s in the details—and this collection nails them. —EMILI VESILIND

HOT STOCK TIP

EAST-WEST SIDE STORY A solitaire engagement style that feels anything but classic, the Doris engagement ring—a standout design in the DF x Alessa collection, a new collaboration between lab-created diamond producer Diamond Foundry and jewelry brand Alessa—features a flat-bottomed shank, a three-claw setting, and a dazzling 2.01 ct. pear-shape lab-grown diamond. Fashion-loving brides will surely swoon. —EV

LIGHTBOX’S FIRST TRUNK SHOW! SEE jckonline.com/topics/diamonds FOR THAT AND MORE.

MARCH / APRIL 2019

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18k yellow gold ring with 2.01 ct. pearshape lab-created diamond; $8,795; www.alessa.jewelry

JCKONLINE.COM

3/8/19 1:01 PM


22 ANNUAL ND

MAY 27-30, 2019 SHOW HOURS Monday-Wednesday: 10 am-6 pm Thursday: 10 am-4 pm

Kick Off Las Vegas Jewelry Week At The GLDA Gem & Jewelry Show At The Mirage Hotel & Casino. Find A Huge Selection Of Gemstone & Jewelry Dealers From Around The World!

Complimentary Refreshments Daily & Special Mirage Hotel Rates! Starting At $78 A Night! (Mon-Thurs)

(301) 294-1640 • www.GLDA.com • info@glda.com Show Address: Mirage Hotel & Casino, 3400 S Las Vegas Blvd, Las Vegas, NV 89109


97

the industry authority

MARCH / APRIL 2019

THE GLOBAL GUIDE TO MARKETS

Show biz PACIFIC MOTION

The jewelry biz will descend on tech-centric, Starbucksdrinking Seattle April 8–10 for the annual AGS Conclave BY EMILI VESILIND

18k white gold bracelet with 4.35 cts. t.w. diamonds; $14,900; Ashi Diamonds; 212-319-8291; ashidiamonds.com

T

HE AMERICAN GEM Society (AGS) will host its annual Conclave event in Seattle April 8–10, featuring a lineup of top-notch speakers scheduled to lead sessions that respond to a raft of modern challenges jewelers, gemologists, and retailers are facing in 2019. Dan Thurmon, president of management consulting firm Motivation Works Inc., will kick off Conclave’s

opening day with a lunch presentation focused on actions in business that inspire change. The event’s keynote speaker, Galen Emanuele, works with corporate teams to create profound shifts in how they communicate and perform—and at Conclave he’s expected to explain his concept of “Yes, and” as a way to boost efficiency and engagement in business. Steve Gutzler, a thought leader and speaker on leadership and emotional intelligence, and Kelly McDonald, a respected marketing and advertising expert, will also lead dynamic sessions. And keynote breakfast speakers Colin Mochrie and Brad Sherwood, stars of

the TV series Whose Line Is It Anyway?, will deliver a comedy-filled presentation that (reportedly!) relies heavily on audience participation. “I think one of the biggest challenges for our members is differentiating themselves so they can compete in the rapidly evolving retail space as well as compete with online retailers,” says Katherine Bodoh, CEO of AGS and AGS Laboratories. “According to JCK’s 2018 State of the Industry survey, 47 percent of respondents say improving the in-store buying experience is the number one strategy to combat online competition. Seattle is known for its innovative businesses, so we’re including sessions that will take our members to the next level by [exploring timely] topics like customer experience, creating high-performance cultures, retail innovation, and responsible sourcing.” Conclave Seattle will also feature more than 90 breakout sessions—GIA is doubling its hands-on gemology classes this year—and 13 networking events. Educational tracks will cover appraisals, gemology, business management, marketing, products and services, sales, and technology. And new this year: the AGS Gemstone Gallery—a showcase for jewelry and gemstones from AGS suppliers. Bodoh characterizes this year’s event, and Conclave in general, as “more than an educational event; it’s a community of like-minded individuals who, over the course of three days, build relationships that last their entire career.”

JCKONLINE.COM

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY SERVING THE JEWELRY INDUSTRY FOR

150 YEARS

With original, authoritative, and compelling journalism, JCK magazine offers readers expanded coverage of the most important issues and style trends affecting their businesses.

JCKONLINE.COM


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the industry authority

MARCH / APRIL 2019

EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES & TECHNOLOGY

TOOL TIME STORY PRIME

IG Story time with @brokenenglishjewelry

and @shopesqueleto

Five ways to make your Instagram Stories look and perform better

I

JOSE LUIS PELAEZ INC./DIGITALVISION/GETTY

BY EMILI VESILIND

NSTAGR AM’S PHOTO GRID is instantly recognizable, and its look has influenced website design all over the world. But the iconic grid may no longer be Instagram’s most ­opportunity-rich avenue for marketers. The social network, which reported 1 billion active monthly users in 2018, debuted its Stories feature in 2016, featuring videos and photos that stay live for 24 hours before disappearing (or being moved into a Highlight for posterity). Many social experts report that eyeballs have been migrating to the YouTube-esque, continuously programmed Stories. But there’s a steep learning curve with Stories. We asked Erin Weinger, a Los Angeles–based digital storytelling strategist, to share her tips for crafting the best Instagram Stories.

something that connects with your consumers. Your Stories don’t have to be epic, and they don’t have to be professionally shot. That’s one of the beautiful things about social media.”

FORGET PERFECT

SAY CHEESE

“A lot of people get freaked out trying to think of the perfect Stories,” Weinger says. “But you can’t let ‘perfect’ get in the way of creating

In 2018 Instagram reported better completion rates on videos featuring human faces. Weinger suggests jewelry retailers experiment with creating video

SHOOT VERTICALLY Stories was built to showcase video captured vertically. “Horizontally shot video doesn’t fit the frame,” explains Weinger, adding that marketers should try to optimize video (and photos) for mobile. And watch your ambient light: Dim lighting looks and feels shady.

WATCH THE CLOCK Check your analytics (aka Insights) regularly on Instagram. “They’ll tell you when your followers are looking at your feed. You can tailor your posting cadence and frequency,” Weinger says.

that starts with a quick introduction (showing a face) before flipping focus to the jewels being discussed. “Consumers want to know their jewelers,” she says, “and this is a great way to begin that human connection.” Camera-shy? Rope in an extroverted staffer to be the face of your IG Stories.

EXPAND YOUR HORIZONS “Get creative,” advises Weinger. “Ask a vendor to send four 15-second clips about what goes into the creation of their jewelry, then [use the clips to] create a Story.” If your shop is located next to a great bakery or bookstore, “go there and shoot 15 seconds of video for your Stories. Do things that allow shoppers to see not only what’s going on in your store but also in your community.”

JCKONLINE.COM

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WHO, WHAT, WEARABLE

LOUIS VUITTON TAMBOUR HORIZON: 2019 EDITION Venerable French fashion brand Louis Vuitton recently debuted the second full collection of its Tambour Horizon smartwatch, which first hit shelves in 2017. And while the connected timepieces cleave tightly to their predecessors in the looks department, the new unisex Tambour Horizon boasts all-new insides, in the form of a high-tech Qualcomm Snapdragon Wear 3100 processor. The upgrade provides longer battery life and a higher-resolution touch screen—both of which elevate the experience of using the smartwatch’s fun (and fancy!) functions. —EV

Finally—a smartwatch to match your handbag!

What it does: The Tambour offers everything you would expect in a high-end smartwatch: Text messages, phone calls, emails, daily steps, alerts, and weather are readily accessible via a nofrills touch screen. But because the Tambour runs on WearOS by Google (formerly Android Wear), wearers can also access Google Assistant, Google Fit, Google Pay, and more through simple swipes.

What we liked: The Tambour was designed with travelers in mind. Its My Travel function gathers trip information (hotel, flight, train, etc.) in one place, while the Agenda tool includes gauges tracking work time versus free time. There’s even a Pollution feature that displays the air quality index and a City Guide function with must-see spots for 30 international destinations.

Best features: The white colorway Tambour Horizon—dubbed the Pure White & Diamonds model—is especially luxe, with a polished ceramic case, pink gold–hued numbers, and a polished steel crown with a white LV logo. To this smart beauty, we say “Oui, oui.” ($2,250–$8,500; louisvuitton.com)

SUPPLY IN DEMAND

MINI WING INSIDE RING BUFF POLISHERS There’s a new (and superfast) way to finish the insides of ring shanks. Stuller’s Mini Wing inside ring buff polishers feature aluminum oxide abrasive cloth flaps anchored to a unitized fiber core. Run these tiny babies at a slow speed on any standard flex shaft handpiece or micro-motor system, and the cloth flaps (which lean at a precise 45-degree angle) cut and smooth in a one-step process. Apply a little pressure, and the spongelike unitized fiber material moves around the contour of the ring, leaving an ultra-smooth finish. ($16.20; stuller.com) —EV

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The well-priced polisher set comes with eight buff polishers in various grits ranging from 80 to 1500.

WITHINGS’ FIRST BUDGET SMARTWATCH! SEE jckonline.com/topics/technology FOR THAT AND MORE.

JCKONLINE.COM

3/8/19 1:06 PM


NEW LOOK | NEW VENUE | NEW EXPERIENCE

Friday, May 31 – Monday, June 3, 2019 P R E M I E R D E S T I N AT I O N TO D I S C O V E R W H AT ’ S N E W AND NEXT IN THE FINE JEWELRY MARKET SANDS EXPO & THE VENETIAN, LAS VEGAS R E G I S T E R TO DAY AT J C K L A S V E G A S 2 0 1 9. C O M

WEDNESDAY, MAY 29 –

THURSDAY, MAY 30 –

THURSDAY, MAY 30 –

MONDAY, JUNE 3, 2019

MONDAY, JUNE 3, 2019

MONDAY, JUNE 3, 2019

BY INVITATION ONLY MAY 29 – 30

SANDS EXPO & THE VENETIAN, LV

SANDS EXPO & THE VENETIAN, LV

THE VENETIAN, LV

LEVEL 1

LEVEL 3

LEVEL 2

@JCKEVENTS

#JCKLASVEGAS


PROTECT YOUR STORE FROM CRIME JOIN THE JEWELERS SECURITY ALLIANCE

BENEFITS OF JOINING THE JSA:

Weekly Email Crime Alerts on criminals and scams

A free copy of the JSA’s Manual of Jewelry Security

Unlimited expert telephone advice on security issues

Rewards offered if your firm suffers a criminal loss

Support of JSA’s work with the FBI and local police

Visit JSA at www.jewelerssecurity.org or contact JSA via jsa2@jewelerssecurity.org or 212-687-0328. For the latest news follow us on Twitter @jsajohnkennedy.


PRODUCT

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Arch Crown Inc. Evocateur 30 Osborne Ave. East Norwalk, CT 06885 Tel: 203-956-0705 Email: info@evocateurstyle.com Website: evocateurstyle.com The incredible collection of art-driven jewelry from Evocateur just keeps getting stronger. Our Rotterdam cuff is a perfect example. Inspired by Holland’s Delft blue-and-white pottery, the original art is combined with 22k gold leaf and enamel. Handmade in the USA. Two inches wide. Available in small, medium, and large wrist sizes.

460 Hillside Ave. Hillside, NJ 07205 Tel: 800-526-8353 Fax: 973-731-2228 Email: info@archcrown.com Website: archcrown.com Custom Molded Tags for That Special Presentation! Durable plastic molded relief tags say “exceptional quality” about the jewelry they’re attached to. Avoid unnecessary returns with tamperresistant, Secure-Lock Not Returnable If Removed tags, ideal for internet sales! They pay for themselves with one saved return.

Graymoor Lane Designs, a Division of Artistry Ltd. 8272 Lincoln Ave. Skokie, IL 60077 Tel: 847-674-8340 Fax: 847-674-3208 Email: info@graymoorlanedesigns.com Website: graymoorlanedesigns.com White gold earrings from Graymoor Lane Designs’ Light collection in 14k gold feature 0.14 ct. t.w. pavé set diamonds. MSRP: $1,350. Graymoor Lane Designs is a division of Artistry Ltd.

Shy Creation 631 S. Olive St., Suite 900 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8900 Email: info@shycreation.com Website: shycreation.com Visit us at JCK Luxury Booth LUX1227 to see all of our 2019 Jewelers’ Choice Awards design winners!

Effy Jewelry Website: effyjewelry.com Paying homage to designer Effy Hematian’s muse, Effy’s Limited Edition Signature Panther ring showcases over 3 cts. t.w. pavé diamonds and gemstones, meticulously handset, capturing the regal grace of the mysterious panther. Effy Limited Edition 14k Yellow Gold Diamond Panther Head Ring, 3.8 cts. t.w., Web ID 10064

JCKONLINE.COM

Lika Behar Collection 80 Triangle Blvd. Carlstadt, NJ 07072 Tel: 201-933-7200 Fax: 201-933-2700 Email: likabehar@likabehar.com Website: likabehar.com Lika Behar’s Deco collection features exceptional blue flash labradorites and diamonds set in brilliant combinations of 18k and 24k gold. MSRP: earrings $2,420; necklace $2,860; ring with oxidized silver and 24k gold $1,540

MARCH / APRIL 2019


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104

Allison-Kaufman Co.

RDI Diamonds Inc.

7640 Haskell Ave. Van Nuys, CA 91406 Tel: 818-373-5100/800-800-8908 Fax: 818-373-5150 Email: info@allisonkaufman.com Website: allisonkaufman.com

2300 W. Ridge Road, Fourth Floor Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 585-225-0415 Email: arickard@rdidiamonds.com Website: rdidiamonds.com

Be the height of fashion in this stunning ring from Allison-Kaufman’s Apex series. 0.2 ct. t.w. of dazzling diamonds are set in 14k white gold, interlocked together with a high-polished solid gold band available in white and rose, white and yellow, or all white gold.

The Ariel Diamonds® beautifully enhanced diamond line is the best option for you and your customers. This program gives you the ability to offer a bigger diamond … even when the budget just isn’t enough.

Phillip Gavriel Thorsten 404 E. First St., Suite 1204 Long Beach, CA 90802 Tel: 888-209-4757 Email: support@thorstenrings.com Website: thorstenrings.com 600 styles. Lifetime warranty. Bold • Unique • Modern

2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Fax: 212-730-7616 Email: sales@royalchain.com Website: phillipgavriel.com Royal Chain recently launched its new Influencer collection, including these on-trend 14k gold signet rings available in oval polished, square polished, or oval satin finish. MSRP: starting at $315

Midas Chain 151 Veterans Drive Northvale, NJ 07647 Tel: 201-244-1150 Fax: 201-244-1151 Email: sales@midaschain.com Website: midaschain.com The stunning 14k yellow gold Love choker by Midas has been designed on an adjustable chain. This makes it extremely versatile to wear at various lengths. MSRP: $696

MARCH / APRIL 2019

Sarda Inc. Tel: 253-841-7212 Fax: 253-251-0660 Email: sales@sarda.com Website: sarda.com Handcrafted in Bali by master silversmiths, each piece of Sarda Artisan Designer Jewelry is designed by Janyl Sherman to be a timeless and unique work of wearable art.

JCKONLINE.COM


PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

Costar Imports, Inc. Tel: 650-389-6969 Email: info@costarimports.com Website: costarimports.com After customer demand, we have taken our most popular stackable wedding bands and introduced matching stackable bangle bracelets with our new locking mechanisms! These bracelets can be customized with diamonds and birthstones.

Stuller Inc. 302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: cadcam_services@stuller.com cadcam_services@ Website: stuller.com With 500+ years of combined experience in custom jewelry creation, Stuller’s CAD/CAM team can help create any one-of-a-kind piece. The team handles every step of the process. Visit stuller.com/cadcamservices to create a custom design.

Hoover & Strong 10700 Trade Road North Chesterfield, VA 23236 Tel: 800-759-9997 Fax: 800-616-9997 ng.com Email: info@www.hooverandstrong.com Website: hooverandstrong.com Hoover & Strong has over 650 die-struck bands including hundreds of new classic, fancy, multitone, and diamond styles! All bands are Made in the USA with Harmony Recycled Precious Metals. Visit hooverandstrong.com to see all our products.

JCKONLINE.COM


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Effy Jewelry

Shy Creation

Website: effyjewelry.com

631 S. Olive St., Suite 900 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8900 Email: info@shycreation.com Website: shycreation.com

More is always more: Delicate baguette and pavé-set diamonds wrap in one single ring, a design reminiscent of the ocean’s waves in motion. Artfully placed for maximum opulence, this is where bold expression and playful grace meet. Diamond wrap ring in 14k white gold with 0.52 ct. t.w. diamonds, MSRP: $2,150

JYE Luxury Collection 101 Utah St., Suite 101 San Francisco, CA 94103 Tel: 415-621-8880 Fax: 415-552-1675 Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Website: jyescorp.com Every piece in the JYE Luxury Collection reflects the brand’s bining unique classic and commitment to excellence by combining contemporary designs and impeccable workmanship in 18k gold/ platinum along with G/VS+ premium-cut diamonds and fine gems.

Gabriel & Co. 545 W. 45th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-519-1400 Email: lverona@gabrielny.com Website: gabrielny.com Gabriel & Co.’s unique diamond engagement rings and bridal sets capture the true love and excitement of your journey towards matrimony. They will forever be a symbol of your commitment to your special someone. (Products: ER12664R4W44JJ, BG4200W84JJ, EG13531W84JJ).

MARCH / APRIL 2019

Meet our latest Jackie collection—Classic pearls for modern women.

RDI Diamonds Inc. 2300 W. Ridge Road, Fourth Floor Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 585-225-0415 Email: arickard@rdidiamonds.com Website: rdidiamonds.com Guaranteed to help you never make a bad inventory buy again! You Me We™ offers complete customization that includes our no-risk 100 percent Sell Thru Guarantee! Customize your solution for your store with four different package options.

Rand & Paseka Mfg. Co. Inc. 10 Hanse Ave. Freeport, NY 11520 Tel: 800-229-0006 Fax: 516-867-0230 Email: sales@randpaseka.com Website: randpaseka.com R & P has the most extensive line of religious jewelry found anywhere. We manufacture over 18,000 items in gold and sterling silver, all made in the USA. Visit our website or call for more info. JCK Las Vegas Booth 50006

JCKONLINE.COM


PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

Nelson Jewellery USA Inc. 631 S. Olive St., Suite 300 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-489-3323 Fax: 213-489-1832 Email: info@nelsonus.com Website: nelsonus.com

Nelson’s tradition of creating unique and timelessly elegant fine jewelry continues. The diamond pendant pictured was a finalist in the 2016 Jewelers’ Choice Awards’ Best Price Point Under $500 category.

Le Vian®

Tel: 877-2LEVIAN/516-466-7200 Email: eddielevian@levian.com Website: levian.com Discover the latest styles from Le Vian®, the masters of color, including new open styles in a rainbow of gem flavors like the majestic purple Grape Amethyst™. No One Colors Your World Like Le Vian™.

Blue Ray Diamonds

45440 Ford Road Canton, MI 48187 Tel: 734-459-8664 Fax: 734-459-8617 Email: takess@aol.com Website: blueraydiamonds.com Our invention is called the Super Halo. We have enhanced the halo and solitaire jewelry with diamonds. In this innovative design, the center diamond/stone sits in a shimmering pool of diamonds.

JCKONLINE.COM

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY STAY CONNECTED WITH

JCKONLINE.COM

The industry’s go-to online source for breaking news and the consumer-led style trends that shape the jewelry industry. JCKonline.com connects the industry influencers who drive the jewelry business forward.

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SERVICES TO TRADE

INVISIBLE EXPERTS! INVISIBLE SET DIAMOND JEWELRY REPAIR • SIZING • REPLACE MISSING STONES TIGHTEN LOOSE STONES • LASER WELDING

We Have The Answer to Your Problems! www.invisibleexperts.com SIGNATURE JEWELRY INC.

1-877-8-EXPERT 213-624-6026

617 S. OLIVE ST. STE. 201 LOS ANGELES, CA 90014

REPS WANTED

CAREER OPPORTUNITIES

NOW HIRING VETERAN FIELD SALES REPRESENTATIVES

JEWELERS & SALES REPRESENTATIVES

• Selling fine jewelry, signed pieces, diamond basics to Italian designers • Draw possibilities available • 10% commission paid monthly • Select territories available • High earning potential • Must have a following with fine jewelry retailers Contact: Dominic Mainella, Managing Partner 716-480-3000 | dm@mdjadvantage.com

Sales Rep for Caribbean and South America For over 100 years Rocket has been an industryleading manufacturer of packaging and displays. We’re big enough that our professionals have the resources to make a difference, yet small enough that you’re not just a number. Find out how you can join our team as a manufacturers rep for the Caribbean and South America and build your career! For more info please send your resume to info@rocketbox.com

The Nation's Largest Restyle Event Company Seeks Experienced Jewelry Sales Representatives and Bench Jewelers who are free to travel and ready for the financial success that working for a great company offers. Salary plus commissions $80K to $120K+. Set schedule; no cold calls. 34 weeks per year travel required, security provided. Benefits include bonuses, 401K and profit-sharing plans, dental, paid health and life insurance, commuting allowance, paid travel expenses and vacation.

Fax resume to 770.499.8974 or email careers@danaaugustineinc.com www.danaaugustineinc.com

CUSTOM MADE MANUFACTURING 3D computer design 3D wax printing ● Precious metal casting ● ●

Stone setting and finishing Diamond supply ● Laser engraving & repair ●

Limpid Jewelry at your service since 1979 800-446-0445 www.limpidjewelry.com info@limpidjewelry.com Jewelry CAD modeling by experts: Convert your jewelry sketches into 3D models quickly. Prices starting from $34. Email intriguity@gmail.com or call +91-9833885929. cadondemand.in

GEMS TO JEWELS CAD from $30.00 CAD—PRINT—CAST www.gemstojewels.com

SCHOOLS & EDUCATION JEWELRY CLASSES

• Wax Modeling • Casting Mold Making • Bead Pearl Stringing • Diamond Setting • Rendering/Design • Jewelry Repair Long and Short Term Courses EST. 1979, LICENSED BY NYS ED. DEPT. 32 East 31 Street (Park & Madison) New York, NY 10016 Call (212) 686-1944 www.studiojewelersltd.com

Experienced Commission Based Jewelry Sales Rep Deconic, a jewelry holding co, seeks self-motivated Jewelry Rep with 5 years experience for Alexis Bittar brand. Established relationships with jewelry stores & key accounts, preferred. Travel required. Email resume to MJ Racy mjracy@deconic.com

WATCHES & WATCH WORK ACCUTRON REPAIRS Done by a Certified Accutron Technician 45+ years experience, 99% parts in stock, quick turnover, all work guaranteed, reasonable prices. Star Findings PO Box 6167, West Orange, NJ 07052 212-941-7655 ernie@starfindings.com www.starfindings.com

JEWELRY APPRAISERS Heritage Appraisers Inc is seeking several local experienced jewelry appraisers. This is a subcontractor opportunity with limited travel. Several territories nationally. Top commission paid.

Applicants can submit their resumes along with two sample appraisals to appraise@heritageappraisers.com or fax to 216-803-4245 These are immediate openings only serious applicants should apply.

WATCHMAKER WANTED! Min. 10 years of experience repairing Patek Philippe, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre, perpetual calendar, chronograph, lathe work, etc. $82,000/year plus benefits. Please email or fax your resume to joshua@grayandsons.com or fax: 305-865-9666

STUDIO JEWELERS, LTD

MARCH / APRIL 2019

JCKONLINE.COM


JIS APRIL TUESDAY, APRIL 16 - THURSDAY, APRIL 18, 2019 MIAMI BEACH CONVENTION CENTER MIAMI BEACH, FL

The Niche A unique and intimate event for the jewelry industry featuring on-trend merchandise for the Spring and Summer selling seasons. REGISTER TO ATTEND OR APPLY TO EXHIBIT AT:

JISSHOW.COM/APRIL The 2019 JIS March Show was originally scheduled to be held March 15-17, 2019. The dates have changed, and the Show will now take place Tuesday, April 16 – Thursday, April 18, 2019, making it the JIS April Show.


ADVERTISING

INDEX

110

AGS Laboratories pg. 25 Website: agslab.com

GLDA pg. 95 Website: glda.com

AGTA pg. 54 Website: agta.org Toll-Free: 800-972-1162

Hoover & Strong pg. 90 Website: hooverandstrong.com Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Phone: 804-794-3700 Toll-Free: 800-759-9997

Alex Velvet pg. 35 Website: alexvelvetusa.com Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Phone: 323-255-6900 Allison Kaufman Company pg. 50 Website: allison-kaufman.com Toll-Free: 800-800-8908 Artistry Ltd. pg. 22 Website: artistrylimited.com Email: getinfo@artistrylimited.com Toll-Free: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Costar Imports pg. 29 Website: costarimports.com Email: info@costarimports.com Toll-Free: 877-7COSTAR Effy pg. Gatefold cover Website: effyjewelry.com Email: inquiries@effyjewelry.com Toll-Free: 855-ASK-EFFY EVOCATEUR pg. 21 Website: evocateurstyle.com Phone: 203-820-8786 Facet Barcelona USA Inc. pg. 19 Website: facetbarcelona.com/usa Email: sales@facet.es Phone: 212-302-8200 Fax: 347-441-0908 Gabriel & Co. pg. 17 Website: gabrielny.com Phone: 212-519-1400 GIA pg. Inside Back Cover Website: gia.edu Email: marketing@gia.edu Phone: 760-603-4000 Toll-Free: 800-421-7250

MARCH / APRIL 2019

Imperial pg. 31 Website: imperialpearl.com Italgem Steel pg. 28 Website: Italgemsteel.com Email: sam@italgemsteel.com Phone: 514-388-5777 Toll-Free: 855-ITALGEM Fax: 514-384-5777 JCK Events pg. 6-7, 101, 111 Website: jckshows.com Toll-Free: 800-257-3626

Nicole Barr pg. 26 Website: nicolebarr.com Email: us-info@nicolebarr.com Phone: 919-846-3704 Toll-Free: 877-810-7312 Fax: 919-846-3705 Peter Lam Jewellery Ltd.pg. 27 Website: peterlam.com.hk Email: kenter@peterlam.com.hk Phone: +852 23555897 Fax: +852 27641328 Rahaminov Diamonds pg. 11 Website: rahaminov.com Email: info@rahaminov.com Phone: 213-622-9866 Fax: 213-622-6113 Rand & Paseka pg. 45 Website: randpaseka.com Email: sales@randpaseka.com Toll-Free: 800-229-0006

JIS Show pg. 93, 109 Website: jisshow.com Email: info@jisshow.com Toll-Free: 800-840-5612

RDI Diamonds pg. 42, Back cover Website: rdidiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-874-8768

Le Vian pg. Inside Front Cover, 1 Website: levian.com Email: sales@levian.com Toll-Free: 877-2LEVIAN

Rembrandt Charms pg. 39 Website: rembrandtcharms.com Email: orders@rembrandtcharms.com Toll-Free: 800-828-7811

Les Georgettes pg. 47 Website: lesgeorgettes.com Email: orders@lesgeorgettesusa.com Phone: 718-360-2917

Royal Chain Group pg. 2-3 Website: royalchain.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960

Lika Behar Collection pg. 81 Website: likabehar.com Email: likabehar@likabehar.com Phone: 201-933-7200 Midas pg. 13 Website: midaschain.com Email: sales@midaschain.com Toll-Free: 877-643-2765 Nelson Jewelry USA pg. 41 Website: nelsonus.com Email: info@nelsonus.com Toll-Free: 800-489-3327

Shy Creation Inc. pg. 4-5 Website: shycreation.com Toll-Free: 800-606-1749 Star Jewelry pg. 32 Website: blueraydiamonds.com Email: Takess@aol.com Phone: 734-459-8664 Fax: 734-459-8617 Sterling Reputation pg. 37 Website: sterlingreputation.com Email: info@sterlingreputation.com Phone: 954-578-1880 Stuller Inc. pg. 23 Website: stuller.com Email: info@stuller.com Toll-Free: 800-877-7777 Fax: 337-981-1655 The Collective pg. 96 Website: thecollectivelasvegas.com Email: Amanda.hampton@emeraldexpo.com Phone: (646) 668-3740 Thorsten Jewelry pg. 105 Website: thorstenrings.com Email: support@thorstenrings.com Umicore pg. 36 Website: umicorepreciousmetals.com Toll-Free: 877-795-5060

Copyright Š2019 Reed Exhibitions. All Rights Reserved. JCK Vol. 150 No. 2 (ISSN 1534-2719) is published 7 times a year in January/February, March/April, May, June, July/August, September/October, and November/December for $59.95 by Advance Local LLC d/b/a Headline Studio on behalf of Reed Exhibitions, 383 Main Avenue, Norwalk CT 06851. Reed Business Information is a division of Reed Elsevier, Inc. Circulation records are maintained at (800) 305-7759. Periodicals Postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to JCK, P.O. Box 5663, Harlan, IA 51537. JCK is a registered trademark of Reed Properties Inc., used under license. This advertiser index is published as a conve-nience and not as part of the advertising contract. Every care will be taken to index correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page number, or failure to insert or include information. Please reference page number listed for more information.

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Introducing Global Gemstone at JCK Las Vegas featuring ICA and Fine Gems

Thursday, May 30 – Monday, June 3, 2019 Open one day earlier than JCK LEVEL 1, SANDS EXPO & THE VENETIAN M E E T A L L O F YO U R LO O S E G E M S TO N E N E E D S AT J C K L A S V E G A S . F E AT U R I N G F I V E B A L L R O O M S O F F E R I N G 2 0 0 + D O M E S T I C A N D I N T E R N AT I O N A L E X H I B I TO R S A L L U N D E R O N E ROOF WITH JCK, LUXURY AND JIS FOR YOUR CONVENIENCE.


112

THE WAY WE WERE COVER STORIES FROM 150 YEARS OF JCK

A WEEK IN THE LIFE

WHAT CAUGHT OUR eye about this particular issue? The artwork. First there’s the gorgeous cover, so reminiscent of the work of Art Nouveau painter Alphonse Mucha. (It could be one of his posters of Sarah Bernhardt!) But we were also intrigued by the extensively varied, often heavily illustrated full-page ads. Among the products promoted: diamond brooches by J. Ziegler & Co.; “perfect turquoise” by Toltec Gem Mining Co. (a woman, in black and white, wearing blue beads); the Sternau coffee machine (which depicts “the noble Turk, the swarthy Arab, and the indolent Mexican,” all java lovers); “fancy flatware” by Wm. B. Durgin Co.; hat pins by Whiting & Davis; cigarette cases by Kerr & Thiery (“makers of hollow ware, toilet goods and novelties in silver”); tortoiseshell combs by Day, Clark & Co.; A.C. Becken’s eyeglass display stand, featuring a life-size “chemically prepared wax” face; and “imitation diamond goods” by Fishel, Nessler & Co. “Don’t scorn a stone because it is not ‘real.’ ” Some things never change. —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

PHOTOGRAPH BY NESTOR CERVANTES

More than 100 years ago, we were known as The Jewelers’ Circular Weekly. That’s right: weekly.

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JCK030119_112_WayWeWere_v1.indd 112

3/7/19 4:24 PM


©2018 Gemological Institute of America, Inc.

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