JCK May 2017 Issue

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

MAY 2017

JCKONLINE.COM

BOLD TIMES

STATEMENT PIECES ARE BACK AND MORE SPECTACULAR THAN EVER

ALINE WEBER

PRESENTS

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

MAY 2017

JCKONLINE.COM

SUPER STORES

WHY THE OLD R E TA I L M O D E L IS NO LONGER ENOUGH

FREQUENT BUYERS SHOWGOERS SHARE THEIR JCK LAS VEGAS SHOPPING LISTS

FAS H I O N P L AY HOT-OFF-THE-RUNWAY TRENDS AND THE JEWELS TO MATCH

ALINE WEBER

NATUR AL FANC Y C OLOR

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TIMELESS BEAUTY IS ALWAYS IN FASHION Everyday elegance and effortless sophistication define our iconic Woven Collection. Crafted in gold with diamonds in Italy, this signature collection is affordable luxury for today’s modern women.

Come discover the 2017 Holiday Collections premiering at our new booth at JCK Las Vegas B36160.

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Our Kate Collection is a red-hot seller and our Eden Collection, a modern twist on the classic halo, is simply the sweetest.

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Th e E x p e r t s i n Going Out of Business. Retiring. Moving.

Loyd Stanley, owner of Stanley Jewelers in North Little Rock Arkansas, is a jeweler’s jeweler who’s been at the forefront of his industry for the past 58 years. He’s a member of the Arkansas Jewelers Association and Jewelers of America. He’s served on the board of the American Gem Society. And both he and his daughter, Laura, have degrees from the Gemological Institute of America as well as being certified gemologists appraisers.

“In 1936 my parents borrowed 400 dollars and opened a jewelry store. The business grew steadily and successfully over these many years and was still doing quite well. But after a full and rewarding career, I was ready to retire,” Stanley explains.

“We could never have done this ourselves. My thinking would never have gotten us to where we needed to be for the sale.Their people were delightful to work with. We were impressed every day. And the sale has provided us with a wonderful bank account.”

Loyd Stanley Stanley Jewelers Little Rock, AR

Ironically, Stanley had long been friends with Bobby Wilkerson, owner of Wilkerson. But he didn’t base his decision to hire Wilkerson on friendship.

“Being friends doesn’t mean he’s the

Wilkerson is a professional jewelry consultant firm, with industry experts who come along to help with a transition — whether retiring, going out of business, or moving.

With more than 50 employees dedicated to a store’s success, Wilkerson is an expert at running sales and maximizing profit.

guy to fund my retirement. So I called several people I know who’d used him recently. They had nothing but fantastic things to say about him and his people,” Stanley continues.

“We could never have done this ourselves. My thinking would never have gotten us to where we needed to be for the sale. Their people were delightful to work with. We were impressed every day. And the sale has provided us with a wonderful bank account.”

Would he recommend Wilkerson to others?

“I’d be delighted.”

Loyd Stanley

“They know what they’re doing. They’ve got a good plan, a good program. And if all their other people are even half as good as the team they sent me, then I’ll stand by my recommendation.”

Visit us at JCK Booth #B26169.

Contact us today for a free consultation!

Call Bobby Wilkerson, Rick Hayes or Josh Hayes at 800.631.1999.

Or visit us at wilkersons.com.

Laura Stanley

JCK LAS VEGAS M A N D A L AY B AY R E S O RT & C A S I N O

NEW OPENING DAY FOR 2017!

MONDAY, JUNE 5 THURSDAY, JUNE 8, 2017

REGISTER TODAY! F O R I N F O R M AT I O N A N D TO R E G I ST E R , V I S I T : J CKO N L I N E.C O M/LASV EGAS THE PREMIER D EST I NAT I O N TO D I S COV E R W HAT’S N EW A ND

@JCKEVENTS

W HAT’S N EX T I N T H E F I N E J EW E L RY MA RK ET

#J C K LASV E G AS

Join Us JCK Talks 2017

NEW OPENING DAY Sunday, June 4 - T

y, June 8

J C K Ta l k s a r m s r e t a i l e r s w i t h t h e t o o l s , i n s i g h t s a n d i n f o r m a t i o n n e c e s s a r y t o s u c c e e d i n t h e c u r r e n t retail climate. Refreshed content for 2017 includes an ac tion-packed day of influential speakers, an

af ternoon with industr y associations, and the Showcase Stage—al l designed to provide you with crucial t a k e a w a y s t h a t d e l i v e r “ S o l u t i o n s f o r y o u r S t o r e .”

JCK Talks Sunday, June 4 (one day eceding JCK Las Vegas) T R AD EW I N D S R O O M S , P O O L L EV E L

Speakers from both in- and outside of the jewelry industry will inspire buyers to think differently about marketing strategies, jewelry merchandising and sales tactics.

with the Associations Monday, June 5 T R AD EW I N D S R O O M S , P O O L L EV E L

Created to put a spotlight on the happenings within our industry, Afternoon with the Associations will include presentations from: WJA, JVC, NCDIA, AGTA and more.

The Showcase Stage Monday, June 5 T y, June 8 JCK SHOW FLOOR, BAYSIDE LEVEL 1

Conveniently located on the show floor, The Showcase Stage, will feature several interactive panels, seminars and trend downloads presented by industry and consumer experts.

S TAY U P - T O - D AT E O N T H E F U L L J C K TA L K S S C H E D U L E B Y V I S I T I N G J C K O N L I N E . C O M / L A S V E G A S / E V E N T S A N D B E S U R E T O D O W N LO A D T H E O F F I C I A L J C K M O B I L E A P P T O H E L P Y O U P L A N Y O U R A G E N D A AT T H E S H O W.

CONTENTS

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JCKONLINE.COM

COVER

138

Leave your lightly layered looks and delicate sensibilities behind. This year, there’s no such thing as too much jewelry.

Go bold or go home.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRIC SHAW

FEATURES 138

COSTUME SHOP The fashion jewelry scene is hotter—and more stylish—than ever. We asked buyers from the country’s chicest retailers, from Barneys to Bloomie’s, to break down the top trends.

BY CLARISSA CRUZ

142

SPRING AWAKENING Turn over a green leaf and tap into the latest trends: pear-shape gems; long pendants; Victorian-esque cocktail rings; bib necklaces; bold, bespoke bridal; and Deco details.

150

PHOTOGRAPHY BY KEVIN CREMENS

150

FALL FORWARD Strong women and striking jewelry flooded the runways in New York, London, Milan, and Paris. Arm yourself for next season’s tough-meets-chic fashions.

BY VENESSA LAU

142 MAY 2017

MODEL: PHOTOGRAPH BY PATRIC SHAW. WHITE STRAPLESS TOP: MARISSA WEBB/MARISSA-WEBB.COM; HONEY CARVED JADE EARRINGS WITH MANDARIN GARNET AND DIAMONDS IN 18K YELLOW GOLD, $36,000, ERICA COURTNEY, 323-938 2373, ERICACOURTNEY.COM; BICOLOR MIRRORED AQUAMARINE EMILY RING IN 18K ROSE GOLD WITH DIAMONDS, $9,780, LAUREN K, INFO@LAURENK.COM, LAURENK.COM. BRACELETS: PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN CREMENS. ENAMEL AND DIAMOND BANGLES IN STERLING SILVER AND 22K GOLD LEAF, $450–$1,390, SOHO, 800-699-SOHO, SOHOJEWELRY.COM

132

THE BIG THRILL

DI A M A J E W E LRY.CO M | CONTAC T C USTOM ERSE RV IC E@DI A M A JE W ELRY.COM FOR AN APP OI NTMENT AT J C K

CONTENTS

28

JCKONLINE.COM

156 FEATURES 156

BUY, BUY, BUY Retailers heading to JCK Las Vegas are looking for edgy designers and lots of color. But, as always, they plan to keep fully stocked with classics like (say it with us!) diamond studs.

176

BY KRISTIN YOUNG

Not surprisingly, Pantone’s 2017 Color of the Year is high on retailers’ market-week shopping lists.

The baby-boom generation has hit a significant financial milestone—one that should help line their pockets with disposable income and heighten opportunity for jewelers.

BY WHITNEY SIELAFF

169

RETAIL, DISRUPTED

169

162 MAY 2017

Our two-part series explores ever-changing consumer habits— and how jewelers must react in order to thrive in the next decade…and beyond.

BY EMILI VESILIND

176

FAIR AMERICA Thoughts, tips, and tricks to find success at art shows and festivals.

BY DANIEL P. SMITH

MODEL WITH NECKLACE: SANDRO HYAMS/THELICENSINGPROJECT.COM; JEWELRY COUNTER: MICHAEL WOOLLEY/THELICENSINGPROJECT.COM

GREEN DAZE

162

BOOMER TOWN

CONTENTS

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42

DEPARTMENTS 38

JEWEL BOX 5 things rocking the industry

40 42 44 46 62 66 69 84 88

FROM THE EDITOR STAFF PICKS FROM THE PUBLISHER CONTRIBUTORS JCKONLINE SOCIAL DIARY NEWS GEMS

JCKONLINE.COM

99 128

Tiffany in a twist: turmoil at the Blue Box GEM PRICING REPORT

THE CALENDAR May 1–June 1, 2017

99

SHOP TALK

INNOVATIVE RETAILER Lauren Kaminsky, EZ Pawn Corp. & ByGoldGirl 102 RETAIL THERAPY Trend stocking for 2017 107 STORE WE ADORE Copious Row in Greenwich, Conn.

113 THE LOOK 114 RED CARPET 122 DESIGNER SHOWCASE Golden guy Yossi Harari 128 JCK ASKS...

Megan Thorne

183 184 186 189

THE VAULT BRIDAL DIAMONDS

SHOW BIZ The LUXURY look. Plus: can’tmiss Design Center exhibitors.

195 TOOL TIME Tapping into social commerce.

Plus: Kate Spade’s wearable.

Barbra Streisand goes Up the Sandbox and out of Africa.

MAY 2017

107

KAMINSKY: CARL SCHEFFEL

224 THE WAY WE WORE

COVER LOOK

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JCKONLINE.COM

Shay Gold Caged Ball drop earrings in 18k yellow gold with diamonds; $7,980

BOLD TIMES

Don’t drop the ball: Big earrings and bangin’ necklaces are all the rage this year. To see how we pile on the pieces, check out “The Big Thrill” (page 132).

Australian black opal earrings in 18k white gold with diamonds; $19,500; Parlé Jewelry Designs; 800-635-9800; parlegems.com

Triple Strand Ball drop choker in 18k yellow gold with diamonds; $12,495; Shay, 646-745-6831; shayfinejewelry.com

FASHION PLAY

If it’s our May issue, it’s time for our annual fashion report.

Get all the news from the runways—plus a trend-by-trend jewelry breakdown—in “Fall Forward” (page 150).

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRIC SHAW Hair: FRED VAN DE BUNT/ART DEPARTMENT; Makeup: REGINA HARRIS Stylist: VLADIMYR PIERRE-LOUIS; Manicurist: RACHEL SHIM USING DERMELECT ‘ME’ IN COAT D’AMOUR/ARTISTS BY TIMOTHY PRIANO; Prop Stylist: ELIZABETH PRESS Model: ALINE WEBER/IMG Beaded chiffon dress: CUSHNIE ET OCHS/cushnieetochs.com; Blue fringe pieces: PLEATS PLEASE ISSEY MIYAKE/tribecaisseymiyake.com

MAY 2017

White opal, spinel, and diamond cuff in 18k white gold; $60,528; Yael Designs; 415-989-9235; yaeldesigns.com

Isabelle kunzite ring in 18k yellow gold with purple sapphires and diamonds, $56,000, Erica Courtney, 323-938-2373, ericacourtney.com; green tourmaline ring in 18k white gold with diamonds, $7,480, Vivaan, 212-302-0402, vivaan.us

Novel, spectacular, completely free-moving, and with the utmost brilliance – this is how diamonds with the patented LIBERTÉ® setting almost float in the jewellery. A truly spectacular way to put the diamond center stage, perhaps the world’s most www.schaffrath1923.com brilliant setting.

SCHAFFRATH - A MEMBER OF GERMAN FINEST The individuality of five leading German manufacturers unites under one mission: The embodiment of “Made in Germany” in quality and design. German Finest sets trends and standards at the highest level – a symbol of German jewelry culture.

One ring, two faces. Tenda / www.henrich-denzel.com

HENRICH & DENZEL - A MEMBER OF GERMAN FINEST The individuality of five leading German manufacturers unites under one mission: The embodiment of “Made in Germany” in quality and design. German Finest sets trends and standards at the highest level – a symbol of German jewelry culture.

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MAY 2017

the industry authority

5 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY

Jewel box After winning the auction, Chow Tai Fook promptly renamed the stone the CTF Pink.

1

AUCTIONS

2

MAJORS Signet CEO Mark Light

Signet is not having the best run. In February, The Washington Post published excerpts from 249 affidavits filed by employees of the jeweler’s Sterling division in the 7-year-old class action, being settled by arbitration, charging the company with gender pay disparities. The statements included some serious charges of sexual harassment and spread from the Post to other publications, causing the company’s long-suffering stock to take another hit. Signet responded to the piece, saying it paints a “negative and distorted view” of the company.

JCKONLINE.COM

LIGHT: CHRIS GOODNEY/BLOOMBERG/GETTY

On April 4 at Sotheby’s Hong Kong, the Pink Star fetched $72.1 million—far and away the highest price ever paid for a diamond or jewel at auction. (The previous world record holder was the Oppenheimer Blue, which garnered $57.5 million in May 2016.)

The final hammer price— which surpassed the $60 million estimate—came after five minutes of frenzied competition between three clients. The winning bidder for the 59.6 ct. fancy vivid pink internally flawless oval: Chinese jewelry retailer Chow Tai Fook.

39

4

BRANDS

Première Camélia Skeleton limitededition timepiece in 18k white gold with 22.66 cts. t.w. diamonds; price on request; Chanel; 800-550-0005; chanel.com

After months of speculation, Ivanka Trump Fine Jewelry finally announced that the brand would be discontinued—and a non– fine jewelry collection would flourish under the core Ivanka Trump label. Abigail Klem, president of Ivanka Trump, said in a statement that the company would focus on “categories that are most relevant to our loyal customers—including fashion jewelry.”

The first daughter stepped away from her company in January.

5

AWARDS 3

NEGGA: VALERIE GOODLOE/SPLASH NEWS

SHOWS Baselworld celebrated its 100th anniversary in late March, but a 13 percent decline in exhibitors and a 4 percent drop in buyers put a damper on the occasion. Most watchmakers played it safe, with novelties that focused on updated color palettes (green was a recurring theme) and reissues of vintage models. A few, however, used the occasion to show off their horological chops—like Chanel, which has over the past three decades grown into a bona fide watchmaking maison: Its new Première Camélia Skeleton features a striking three-dimensional movement that pays tribute to Mademoiselle’s favorite flower.

Ladies, say farewell to your chandelier earrings and au revoir to cocktail rings.

The 2017 Academy Awards were all about—wait for it!—tiaras. Loving nominee Ruth Negga (pictured) was a vision in an Irene Neuwirth– designed headpiece featuring 146-plus carats of Gemfields Mozambican rubies in blackened white gold. Actress Janelle Monáe (Moonlight, Hidden Figures) rocked a Swarovski crystal and brass crown by Jennifer Behr.

And presenter Salma Hayek sparkled in a 19th-century diamond laurel-leaf headband courtesy of Fred Leighton.

What else can we say except Yaaas, queens!

MAY 2017

from the editor

40

J

Here’s one way to make a statement: a spectacular twofinger ring (I saw this Sutra design at Baselworld).

Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief vgomelsky@jckonline.com MAY 2017

THE TWO HAVE always had a complicated relationship. As late as a decade ago, the idea that fine and fashion jewels could happily coexist was still news to the industry. It took the financial crisis of 2008 to fuse the categories— and we’ve been thanking the fates ever since.

In “The Big Thrill” (page 132), JCK ’s first bona fide fashion shoot in ages, we’ve set aside conventional notions of how fine and fashion jewelry differ to promote one all-inclusive message: This season, it’s time to make a statement.

Some years are about dainty looks and layering—2017 isn’t one of them.

That’s something to think about when you head to Vegas next month for the JCK and LUXURY shows (for more on the latter, check out page 189 in Show Biz). To get the scoop on what product trends retailers are investing in this year, read “Buy, Buy, Buy” (page 156), contributor Kristin Young’s annual preview of the shopping frenzy that is jewelry market week.

For the complete fashion picture, don’t miss “Spring Awakening” (page 142), a color-infused still life that not only spotlights some of the best designers working in fine fashion jewelry but also serves as a subtle reminder that green is the season’s fresh and stylish throughline, and “Fall Forward”(page 150), Venessa Lau’s incisive

recap of the trends on the fall 2017 runways.

Elsewhere in this issue, the second to show off the magazine’s sleek new look, we tackle the underlying factors transforming the jewelry industry. In “Retail, Disrupted” (page 169), part one of a two-part series exploring the changing retail landscape, senior editor Emili Vesilind makes a compelling point about traditional, full-priced retail: The model will survive—“but only if other aspects of the brand experience sweeten the value proposition for consumers.”

Look for part two in our June issue.

The good news is that despite the jewelry industry’s preoccupation with millennials, the boomers are primed for sweetening. Thanks to tax regulations on retirement savings that kick in at age 70½, boomers are about to receive mandatory 401(k) distributions. Read Whitney Sielaff’s “Boomer Town” (page 162) to find out how some luxury jewelers are capitalizing on the impending cash stream.

We close out our features with tips and tricks culled by Daniel P. Smith on how to succeed on the art fair circuit (“Fair America,” page 176).

As with most retail endeavors, a wide product selection is key. All the more reason to open your minds—and wallets—to the bounty of fashion jewels livening up the marketplace.

JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; HAIR AND MAKEUP: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES

ewelry and fashion:

BGK Graphics

#MyKindofJewelry 1-800-775-2744 • www.skashi.com • info@skashi.com

42

MAY 2017

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

OUR FAVORITE THINGS

STAFF PICKS 3

Earrings with sapphire, pearl, enamel, and micromosaic of seed pearls; €300 ($322); Percossi Papi; 39-066-880-1466; percossipapi.com

4

Bracelet with carved mother-ofpearl and salmon coral in 14k gold– plated brass; $396; Bounkit; 212-2441877; bounkit.com

SHELL COMPANY What JCK magazine’s MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO is loving this month

Biltmore hoop earrings in 14k gold fill with freshwater pearls; $249; Vincent Peach; 615-378-1374; vincentpeach.com

5

2

Pinball ring with 16 mm glass pearl in 14k gold–plated brass; $115; Lele Sadoughi; 212-228-8422; lelesadoughi.com

“Getting a superchic pearl look has never been easier— or more affordable!”

—Melissa Rose Bernardo, JCK managing editor

JCKONLINE.COM

PORTRAIT: BRUCE GLIKAS

1

Multistrand pearl Y necklace with gold-plated brass, mother-of-pearl, and lapis, coral, wood, and amazonite beads; $650; Lizzie Fortunato; 212-777-1008; lizziefortunato.com

PHOTOGRAPHY: BARTOSZ POTOCKI

Luxury • Las Vegas • Salon #1321

FROM THE PUBLISHER

44

G

Just one of the halls inside the expansive Baselworld watch and jewelry show

Mark Smelzer Publisher msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com MAY 2017

I’VE JUST FINISHED five invigorating (and exhausting) days at this year’s edition of the Baselworld show in Basel, Switzerland, and I’m writing you from British Airways Flight 711 from Zurich to London.

The theme this year? Change. It seems everything is up for reconsideration, from the purpose of watches in the face of competition from tiny, wrist-worn computers, to the role that jewelry plays in a “modern luxury” world, to the function of retail as we await Amazon’s first delivery drones.

At the same time, certain themes never change. Those businesses that reinvent, innovate, remain nimble, and do their best to respond to change have the best opportunity to survive.

It was in this context that I had the pleasure of walking the show with an advance copy of the all-new JCK. Congratulations to our editorial team (helmed by editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky) and a special shout-out to creative director Peter Yates. I’ve been in the magazine biz for over 25 years now, and I know

when we have a winner! It’s a joy to receive nothing but praise and positive feedback.

The issue in your hands is the second featuring our new design, and it is a beauty.

We hope you enjoy the info-packed editorial content and that you are inspired by the design and photography. It’s really what print is all about in 2017. Oh, and of course, we encourage you to make a slow page-turn of our wonderful advertisers. If something sparks your interest, please tear out the ad and bring it to their JCK Las Vegas show booth.

Next up for me is the AGS Conclave, held this year in Los Angeles. I always look forward to seeing and learning from some of the country’s best jewelry retailers at this event.

And in light of all the above changes, I’m sure attendees will arrive hungry for news, trends, and advice. I know I’m fascinated to learn.

As this issue hits your desk, you’re no doubt busily preparing yourself for the big week in Vegas (time to start breaking in those new shoes!). I look forward to seeing you at the show.

JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; GROOMING: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES; HALL: COURTESY OF BASELWORLD

reetings from midair!

CONTRIBUTORS VENESSA LAU WRITER

JCKONLINE.COM

CLARISSA CRUZ WRITER

In this issue: She profiled gold-loving,

In this issue: She sought out buyers

globe-trotting designer Yossi Harari (“24 Karat Magic Man,” page 122) and scoured runways from Paris to Milan to unearth next season’s fiercest—and most jewelry-friendly— fashions (“Fall Forward,” page 150).

Where you’ve seen her work: Lula magazine, Vogue China, W, WWD.

and tastemakers from the country’s top retailers to discover what’s trending in the $1,500-and-under jewelry category (“Costume Shop,” page 138). Think tassels!

Where you’ve seen her work: O, The Oprah Magazine; InStyle; People; Entertainment Weekly; Inc. magazine.

RANDI MOLOFSKY

VLADIMYR PIERRE-LOUIS

JEWELRY DIRECTOR

In this issue: With her (fabulously

bejeweled) finger on the pulse of what’s new and next, she scouted statement styles—“That ’80s Show,” page 113, “The Big Thrill,” page 132—and green pieces (“Spring Awakening,” page 142).

Where you’ve seen her work: A Girl’s Guide to Buying Diamonds; Gemfields’ Mila Kunis ad campaign; brand development agency For Future Reference.

PATRIC SHAW

PHOTOGRAPHER

In this issue: He shot the striking cover

and inside cover, plus the stunning statement-jewel-filled fashion feature “The Big Thrill” (page 132).

Where you’ve seen his work: fashion labels including Carolina Herrera, Calvin Klein, Givenchy, and Lanvin; magazines GQ, Harper’s Bazaar, Vanity Fair, W, and more.

MAY 2017

WARDROBE STYLIST

In this issue: He picked all the designer duds—from the groovy Pleats Please Issey Miyake fringe outfit to the multihued M Missoni dress—that look so gorgeous on model Aline Weber.

Where you’ve seen his work: PR for designer Yigal Azrouël; campaigns for Dana-Maxx and TSE Cashmere; Women’s Health, where he served as fashion editor; countless red carpets.

KEVIN CREMENS PHOTOGRAPHER

In this issue: He captured the lush, verdant shades of the season in the fresh jewelry still life “Spring Awakening” (page 142).

Where you’ve seen his work: magazines including Allure, Elle, and Glamour; retailers including Bloomingdale’s and Saks Fifth Avenue; beauty brands Estée Lauder, Lancôme, and L’Oréal.

CRUZ: JAYME THORNTON; MOLOFSKY: JEFF VESPA; SHAW: CHRISTINA ZIMPEL

46

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

THORSTEN THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY FOR 148 YEARS!

Editor-in-Chief VICTORIA GOMELSKY Creative Director PETER YATES

Managing Editor MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

Publisher MARK SMELZER 917-273-0357 msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com U.S. ADVERTISING SALES

EDITORIAL News Director / ROB BATES rbates@jckonline.com Senior Editor / EMILI VESILIND evesilind@jckonline.com Art Director / ALFREDO CEBALLOS Photography Director / FREYDA TAVIN Jewelry Director / RANDI MOLOFSKY Contributing Editor / BRITTANY SIMINITZ bsiminitz@jckonline.com Copy Editor / SHARON CONGDON Editorial Contributors AMANDA BALTAZAR, AUBRY D’ARMINIO, AMY ELLIOTT, KATHY HENDERSON, BOB ICKES, ARI KARPEL, VENESSA LAU, KRISTIN LUNA, MICHELE MEYER, RACHEL S. PETERS, STUART ROBERTSON, NANCY SIDEWATER, WHITNEY SIELAFF, DANIEL P. SMITH, MATT VILLANO, MARTHA C. WHITE, KRISTIN YOUNG Photography Contributors PATRIC SHAW, ETHAN HILL, KEN GUNMAKER, NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS

PUBLISHED FOR REED EXHIBITIONS BY

VP, Content LIZ BUFFA

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CT/DE/LA/MA/NJ/NY/PA Regional Manager / RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905, fax 646-783-3771 rgewertz@reedjewelrygroup.com AK/AL/AR/AZ/CA/CO/HI/IA/ID/IL/IN/KS/KY/ MD/MI/MN/MO/MS/MT/NC/ND/NE/NM/NV/ OH/OK/OR/SD/TN/TX/UT/VA/WA/WI/WV/ WY/CANADA/MEXICO Regional Manager / ROBIN LUTIN 310-474-9610, fax 310-475-3249 rlutin@reedjewelrygroup.com FL/GA/ME/NH/RI/SC/VT/PUERTO RICO Regional Manager / LARS PARKER-MYERS 203-840-5808, fax 203-840-9808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com C I R C U L AT I O N Director, PubWorX / WENDY EDELSTEIN Subscriptions and Customer Service 800-305-7759 (North America) 515-247-2984 (other regions) PUBWORX Operations Account Manager PATRICIA NORNIELLA Premedia Account Manager ANNETTE FARRELL Digital Imaging Specialist JAIRO CORLETO

VP, Business Development MATT CHERVIN

Marketing Director / ALEXIS AINSCOUGH Account Director / HEATHER BOHL Art Director / ANDY ROSS One World Trade Center, Floor 28 New York, NY 10007 For content marketing inquiries, please call 212-286-7330 advancelocal.net headline studio is a division of advance local

/ randy siegel, president

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

Senior Vice President / JCK, Reed Exhibitions YANCY WEINRICH 646-783-3761 (NY), 203-840-5481 (CT) yweinrich@reedjewelrygroup.com I N T E R N AT I O N A L A D V E R T I S I N G BRAZIL/EUROPE/MIDDLE EAST MIREK KRACZKOWSKI Ul. Skierniewicka 14 / 108, 01-230 Warsaw, Poland 48-22-401-70-01, fax 48-22-401-70-16 cell 48-600-344-881 mirek@jckonline.com INDIA KAUSHAL SHAH 1A – 1101, Lodha Bellissimo, Apollo Mills Compound, Off N.M. Joshi Marg, Mahalaxmi, Mumbai – 400011 Maharashtra, India 91-22-2305-9305 cell 91-98-2171-5431 kaushal@kaushals.com

ISRAEL ITZCHAK ARIKHA P.O. Box 3237, Ramat Gan 52131, Israel 972-3-751-2165/6, fax 972-3-575-2201 galisaac@zahav.net.il THAILAND LAKKANA KONGCHUEN Reed Tradex Co. 32nd Floor, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, 100/68-69 N. Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok, 10500, Thailand 66-2-686-7299, fax 66-2-686-7288 cell 66-8-9452-4447 lakkana.kong@reedtradex.co.th

CHINA/HONG KONG/INDONESIA/ JAPAN/KOREA/MALAYSIA/ PHILIPPINES/SINGAPORE/ TAIWAN/VIETNAM QUENTIN CHAN Leading Media Ltd., Room B, 16/F 8 Hart Ave., Tsimshatsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 852-2366-1106, fax 852-2366-1107 cell 852-9438-9577 quentinchan@leadingm.com

JCK LAS VEGAS & JCK TUCSON Industry Vice President KATIE DOMINESEY 203-840-5470 kdominesey@reedjewelrygroup.com Group Marketing Director LAUREN LARAMORE 203-840-5958 llaramore@reedjewelrygroup.com Special Events and Conference Manager KATE NELLIS 203-840-5675 knellis@reedjewelrygroup.com Account Executive ALEXANDRA WURSTER International Companies and Pavilions, Essentials, Tech, Retail Experience, JCK Tucson (Tucson Ballroom) 203-840-5332 awurster@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive LARS PARKER-MYERS Clockwork, VicenzaOro Italian Club 203-840-5808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com Account Executive JESSICA GOLDKOPF AUDET Diamond Plaza 203-840-5955 jgoldkopf@reedjewelrygroup.com Sales Executive DANA KARP First Look (companies N–Z), JCK magazine 203-840-5687 dkarp@reedjewelrygroup.com Sales Executive VICKY PANG The Bridge (companies A–O) 203-840-5960 vpang@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive ANA CROSBY Bridal, Sterling Plaza, Plumb Club, Currents, First Look (companies A–M), The Gallery (Bayside), AGTA 203-840-5305 acrosby@reedjewelrygroup.com Sales Executive NINA MANCINI Design Center, Lifestyle, The Bridge (companies P–Z), JCK Tucson (Arizona Ballroom) 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedjewelrygroup.com Retailer Account Manager ISABEL CAJULIS 203-840-5950 icajulis@reedjewelrygroup.com

L U X U R Y & S W I S S W AT C H E V E N T S

Centurion C ntu Scottsdale Luxury

by JCK L JCK Las Vegas Luxury Privé NY Select Shows Centurion South Beach Celebrating 35 Years

Call for a catalog 888.674.3250 www.artistrylimited.com

Industry Vice President SARIN BACHMANN 203-840-5651 sbachmann@reedjewelrygroup.com Group Marketing Director LAUREN LARAMORE 203-840-5958 llaramore@reedjewelrygroup.com Special Events and Conference Manager KATE NELLIS 203-840-5675 knellis@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive JESSICA GOLDKOPF AUDET LUXURY & LUXURY Privé (companies A–O) 203-840-5955 jgoldkopf@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive LARS PARKER-MYERS LUXURY & LUXURY Privé (companies P–Z) Swiss Watch, LUXURY Watch 203-840-5808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com Retailer Account Manager HANNAH CONNORTON 203-840-5492 hconnorton@reedjewelrygroup.com

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE

ONLINE

“We are way overbuilt. I cannot recall the last time I went to a mall. Overpriced and overhyped.

There is nothing unique.”

— JCKonline reader truCharts.com on “Are Malls Dying?”

OVERSIZE MATTERS

Book your appointment before the show starts and be entered to win a KORITE Ammolite watch.

Call 1-800-917-2228

SUPER POWERS Asked by JCK Insider to describe her personal jewelry style, Judi Powers said “feminine” and “lots of tourmaline.” (Exhibit A: this snapshot of the designer at last year’s LUXURY Privé show.) Learn more about the second-year JCK Rising Star at jckinsider.com/full-circle, and see her gorgeous, gem-filled jewels in person at the Design Center at JCK Las Vegas, June 5–8.

www.korite.com

JCK Events recently gave showgoers a heads-up on spring jewelry trends.

Two of the top picks?

Big pendants (like Omi Privé’s, top)—and bigger earrings (like Paramount Gems’, above). For more on this year’s fashion and accessory trends, see “Fall Forward” (page 150).

SEE WHAT’S HAPPENING ON THE SHOW FLOOR! FOLLOW @jckevents ON INSTAGRAM.

BEVERLEY K N O W S BRIDAL

Beverley K bridal jewelry is as enduring as love itself.

Every style is strikingly beautiful. Each design is timeless and will be in vogue today, tomorrow and for years to come.

Beverley K also knows that details make every piece truly special. We customize each design for our clients and their specific needs. Even though it’s more time-consuming to create, each jewel is handcrafted by our master artisans.

The detail, proportions and beauty of our creations are beyond perfect. Isn’t it time you got to know Beverley K? To learn more about our award winning bridal collections, see us at: JCK Luxury/Prestige P-1906

beverleyk.com

•

info@beverleyk.com

•

619-465-4789

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE

ONLINE

@JCKMagazine JCKmagazine @jckmagazine @jckmagazine

INSTAGEM

FAVORITE FEED OF THE MONTH Hollywood stylist Cristina Ehrlich (@cristinaehrlich )—who glams up the likes of Priyanka Chopra, Brie Larson, and Tina Fey—gives us a behind-the-red-carpet peek into her life and work. Think awards-show photos, runway snaps, and market-visit pics filled with jewels, shoes, and bags galore.

Rocking a mix of vintage and vintage-inspired rings from Malibu, Calif., brand Irit Design

Technically these are Edie Parker clutches, but don’t they look like modified emerald-cut gemstones?

Greta Gerwig wore this Neil Lane Deco beauty to this year’s Governors Awards.

Pearls just want to have fun!

Ehrlich puts her best foot forward in a Chanel strappy stiletto.

Girls star Allison Williams (in Fernando Jorge and Colette jewels) before a Tonight Show spot

Uzo Aduba sported these Kwiat gems with an emerald-hued Zac Posen gown at the ’16 SAG Awards.

WANT MORE JCK? JCK NEWS DAILY BRINGS THE TOP STORIES TO YOUR INBOX EVERY MONDAY–SATURDAY. GO TO jckonline.com/newsletters/subscribe.

JCKONLINE.COM

Social Diary

BASELWORLD

SWISS FLAIR

Baselworld, you don’t look a day over 75!

The trade show, which turned 100 years old in late March, drew politicians, actors—and even synth-pop band Depeche Mode.

3 Chopard copresidents Karl-Friedrich and Caroline Scheufele with Swiss federal councillor Alain Berset

1

Former Grey’s Anatomy star Patrick Dempsey premiered a short film for TAG Heuer that he directed.

2

Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe (l.) hosted a surprise Depeche Mode concert at the brand’s dinner with Ferrari.

5

4 The Swatch Group’s Nick Hayek Jr. and Nayla Hayek give Berset the grand tour.

MAY 2017

6

Baselworld saw a 13 percent decline in exhibitors this year—but it held on to its glam factor.

Despite the crush of people at the show, buyer attendance was down 4 percent from 2016.

Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin (c.) at a press conference with the brand’s Guido Terreni and ambassadors Laura Harrier, Jasmine Sanders, Caroline Vreeland, Kris Wu, and Jon Kortajarena.

7

JCKONLINE.COM

COURTESY OF BASELWORLD

66

3OHDVH 9LVLW XV DW -&. %RRWK 6 -&. /X[XU\ %RRWK /8;

1HOVRQXV FRP ,QIR#QHOVRQXV FRP

69

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

MAY 2017

NEWS JEWELERS CAN USE

NEWS GEMS What’s Clicking on JCKonline

Tiffany & Co. Hardwear chain wrap necklace in 18k yellow gold; $11,500

The top stories for February and March. Don’t miss a headline or blog post! Sign up for our daily newsletter at jckonline.com/ newsletters/subscribe.

1 2

GAGA: DAVID SIMS; NECKLACE: TIFFANY & CO.

3 4 5

1,669 U.S. Jewelry Businesses Closed in 2016, JBT Says: Jewelers Board of Trade statistics showed that the number of jewelry retailers decreased dramatically.

California Jeweler Arrested for Allegedly Switching Customers’ Rings: Four weddings were postponed because of the alleged thefts, police said.

Where Does Blue Nile Go From Here? JCK news director Rob Bates looks at the e-tailer’s options now that it has been purchased by Bain Capital.

The Future of Ivanka Trump Jewelry Line Is Uncertain, Retailers Say: The once-popular brand has seemingly become a political football.

Here’s Who Made Beyoncé’s Incredible Grammys Jewelry: JCK senior editor Emili Vesilind has the answer: House of Malakai.

T

TIFFANY IN A TWIST The noted retailer’s board and CEO get a shake-up

BY ROB BATES

JCKONLINE.COM

From Lady Gaga’s Tiffany campaign

IFFANY & CO. wants extra coffee with breakfast.

After a shake-up in its C-suite and three high-level additions to its board, interim CEO Michael Kowalski said the House of the Blue Box hopes to speed up its metabolism.

“We are focused on increasing the pace of new products and new innovations,” he told analysts on the company’s annual earnings call. “We want greater newness at a greater pace.”

It’s all part of a startling series of changes at the generally staid 180-year-old retailer. Kowalski, who headed Tiffany for 15 years, returned as CEO in February, following the abrupt dismissal of Frederic Cumenal.

A veteran of LVMH, Cumenal—together with design director Francesca Amfitheatrof—had been charged with turning Tiffany

NEWS GEMS

THE SCOOP

70

into a “global luxury brand.” Yet Amfitheatrof left in January, and former Ralph Lauren exec Reed Krakoff signed on as chief creative officer. Cumenal departed three weeks later, on the Sunday that Tiffany was running a big Super Bowl ad with Lady Gaga.

In announcing Cumenal’s departure, Kowalski said the board believes “that accelerating execution of [our current core business] strategies is necessary.” Following this, Tiffany’s board announced an agreement with 5.1 percent owner Jana Partners LLC, an “activist” investment fund, to expand the board to include three high-profile new directors: Francesco Trapani, former head of Bulgari; James Lillie, who ran consumer products giant Jarden Corp.; and Roger Farah, current co-CEO of Tory Burch.

Yet given the persistent rumors that Tiffany is a takeover target—an idea that Cumenal was unenthusiastic about—some thought it significant that two of the three new board members headed companies that ended up being sold.

For all its current turmoil, Tiffany is still profitable. Sales have been uneven for the last two years, due to problems in Asia and a series of bad breaks. The proximity of its New York City flagship, on Fifth Avenue, to Trump Tower has proved problematic since Election Day, when media, protesters, and Secret Service began swarming into the area. Sales fell 7 percent in that location, and are down 11 percent for the year.

Precious charms for precious memories.

“There’s no known [commercial] diamond mine in the United States, as far as I can tell.… And with food and gas and everything else people have to have just to live also being taxed—jewelry? People might just say, ‘No thanks, we’re all set.’ ” —Jewelers of America president and CEO David Bonaparte, explaining his group’s opposition to the border adjustment tax put forth

by House Republicans

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NEWS GEMS

Q&A

72

Alex and Ani I Love You Mom bracelet set in Rafaelian Gold ($128); inset: Cindy DiPietrantonio

3 Questions for...

CINDY D I PIETRANTONIO Fine Jewelry Displays

AN ACCESSORIES VETER AN, Cindy DiPietrantonio was named president of Alex and Ani last year.

Here she talks about the charm brand’s surprising plan to introduce high-end and men’s lines. —RB Your company is moving into precious jewels?

We currently have precious in our line, and we are expanding that, under the label American 925. That collection will premiere this fall. We are also coming out with a higher-end line much farther down the line. We haven’t set the price point on all the product yet. But when I say high-end, I’m talking $1,500 to $2,500. We are also planning—and this is the first time we have announced this—a men’s line, Alex and Ani Men’s, that will launch next year.

There has been talk about an IPO. Do you see that happening?

2017 is all about focus for us. I don’t see that happening in the near future.

Tel: 323.255.6900 Fax: 323.255.6934 3334 Eagle Rock Blvd. • Los Angeles 90065 info@alexvelvetusa.com MAY 2017

How do you view Alex and Ani compared to Pandora?

They have a very different business model—it’s a very different company.

I always go back to how Pandora is not a U.S.-based company, and one of our biggest points is that we are made in the U.S. The second is we are a meaning-based company. We connect to our customers through being meaning-based, and it’s really something that keeps our customers with us. We like to think of ourselves as a humanitarian company as well.

With Charity by Design, we have 55 different partner charities that give back part of the proceeds. [This year], we will likely hit close to $50 million.

That’s a big number.

JCKONLINE.COM

NEWS GEMS

INDUSTRY&PEOPLE

THORSTEN MEET US AT JCK BOOTH#B58053

OPENING Chow Tai Fook is opening an 820-square-foot branded shop in Laox Watch, a tax-free store located in Shinjuku, a Tokyo transit hub. It will sell gold and gem-set jewelry.

COMINGS AND GOINGS Sir John Parker, chairman of Anglo American, the mining company that owns 85 percent of De Beers, will step down from that post after eight years.

Brianna Miller has joined Tacori as a territory manager for the Northeast.

She previously worked for Stephen Webster and Ippolita.

board of directors. She follows Phyllis Bergman, who served in the position for five years.

Chow Tai Fook Love of Butterfly bridal collection gold necklace and convertible gold earrings

Brianna Miller Vacheron Constantin has appointed Louis Ferla its new CEO. He replaces Juan Carlos Torres.

Carson Glover, a veteran of Tiffany & Co., Harry Winston, and the De Beers account at J. Walter Thompson, has joined the Peninsula Hotels as its new

director of global communications.

Scott Girouard has been promoted

to North American sales manager for Pease & Curren Refiners. He previously served as regional refining consultant for the Southeast.

Peter Kramer has been appointed Breguet brand president for the U.S.

and Canada. He previously worked at Chanel as executive director of sales and

network development for watches and fine jewelry.

Anna Martin, senior vice president of

global development and beneficiation for GIA, has been elected president of the Diamond Empowerment Fund JCKONLINE.COM

Carson Glover

The Bangkok-based Asian Institute of Gemological Sciences has named Barbara Wheat president. Wheat is leaving her post as executive vice president of the Natural Color Diamond Association.

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NEWS GEMS

I&P

Russian diamond miner Alrosa has chosen Sergei Ivanov Jr. as its new CEO, replacing Andrey Zharkov.

Ivanov is the son of Sergei Ivanov, Russian president Vladimir Putin’s former chief of staff.

The World Diamond Council has named Marie-Chantal Kaninda its new executive director. A resident of the Democratic Republic of the Congo, Kaninda previously worked for De Beers and Rio Tinto.

HONORED The Diamond Empowerment Fund will honor Helzberg Diamonds, actor David Oyelowo, and former South African first lady Graça Machel at its annual Diamonds Do Good Awards gala on June 4 at the Four Seasons during the JCK show in Las Vegas.

The Jewelers Vigilance Committee has appointed Tiffany Stevens its new president and CEO. She succeeds Cecilia Gardner, who served in those positions for 18 years.

David Oyelowo Citizen Watch America has appointed Barbara Garces its first chief digital

officer. Garces has led digital teams at Ralph Lauren, Godiva Chocolatier, and the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Barbara Garces

ORGANIZATIONS Diamond Dealers Club is moving from its longtime home at 580 Fifth Avenue to the International Gem Tower on West 47th Street in New York City.

The Plumb Club is opening its membership to companies that don’t exhibit at its pavilion at JCK Las Vegas. It’s part of a three-year plan that will see the group increase trade show involvement, expand branding and marketing, and take a greater industry leadership role.

JCKONLINE.COM

Al Gilbertson, GIA’s project manager of cut research, received the Accredited Gemologists Association’s 2017

Antonio C. Bonanno Award for Excellence in Gemology on Feb. 1 in Tucson. The award is presented to those who have made significant contributions to the field of gemology.

The American Gem Society will honor GIA distinguished research fellow James Shigley with its Lifetime Achievement Award on July 25 at the Plaza hotel in New York City.

Myriam Gumuchian, co-owner of the Gumuchian brand, and Peter Engel, president of Fred Meyer Jewelers, will both receive the AGS Triple Zero Award for their contributions to the industry.

REMEMBERED Former Zale Corp. vice chairman Leo Fields died Feb. 12. He was 88.

Jules Roger Sauer, the onetime refugee who built Brazil’s Amsterdam Sauer

into an internationally recognized gemstone giant, died Feb. 1. He was 95.

NEWS GEMS

84

Gem PricinG

DESIGNERS PUT COLOR BEFORE MATERIAL

VS2

SI1

SI2

GOOD

DIAMOND: 1 ct. round brilliant

FINE

Alexandrite

G

$7,735

$6,970

$6,240

$5,280

H

$6,480

$6,150

$5,820

$5,000

1 to under 2 cts.

$2,750–$4,500

$8,000–$10,000

2 to under 3 cts.

$3,500–$6,000

$9,500–$11,500

Rhodolite Garnet I

$5,600

$5,530

$5,270

$4,720

J

$5,120

$4,720

$4,560

$4,320

1 to under 3 cts.

$30–$70

$70–$110

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$90

$90–$150

DIAMOND: 1/2 ct. round

Rubellite Tourmaline

G

$3,570

$3,200

$2,700

$2,340

H

$3,200

$3,000

$2,600

$2,270

I

$2,720

$2,630

$2,250

$2,150

1 to under 3 cts.

$75–$125

$220–$250

3 to under 5 cts.

$110–$225

$275–$375

Tsavorite Garnet

J

$2,240

$2,125

$2,000

$2,050

DIAMOND: 2 ct. round brilliant

1 to under 3 cts.

$575–$850

$1,050–$1,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$1,500–$2,200

$2,500–$3,000

Tahitian Pearl Strand (knotted 14k ball clasp)

G

$14,300

$12,400

$10,600

$8,700

H

$12,400

$10,900

$9,400

$8,580

9 to under 12.5 cts.

$3,500–$4,500

$4,500–$8,000

10 to under 13.5 cts.

$4,000–$5,000

$5,000–$9,000

Mozambique Cuprian Tourmaline I

$10,000

$8,820

$8,520

$7,280

J

$8,000

$7,390

$7,000

$6,390

2 to under 3 cts.

$1,800–$3,500

$5,000–$6,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$2,500–$3,700

$6,500–$9,000

DIAMOND: 2 ct. princess cut

Pink Sapphire

G

$8,960

$8,100

$7,575

$6,600

H

$8,350

$7,560

$6,800

$6,000

I

$6,475

$6,140

$6,000

$5,400

1 to under 3 cts.

$425–$715

$850–$1,100

3 to under 5 cts.

$525–$950

$1,350–$1,800

1 to under 3 cts.

$50–$75

$125–$150

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$80

$135–$170

Blue Zircon

J

$5,350

$4,850

$4,770

$4,700

Prices shown represent actual wholesale memorandum prices paid by retail jewelers on a per-stone basis. All prices are per carat except for cultured pearls. No responsibility or liability is assumed for the consequences of the use of any information in this report, nor for errors or omissions. The terms commercial, good, fine, and extra-fine are general classifications developed and used by The GemGuide. Each represents a range of individual quality grades. When they are used in conjunction with proper grading, one can accurately pinpoint a price from within the listed range. The GemGuide is published six times a year. A one-year subscription includes market reports and colored stone and diamond prices. For more information, contact Gemworld International Inc., 2640 Patriot Blvd., Suite 240, Glenview, IL 60026; 888-GEMGUIDE or 847-657-0555, fax 847-657-0550. U.S., Canada, $205 complete per year. Elsewhere $275 complete per year.

PHOTO: TEXT RUNS VERTICAL FROM BASE: 5.5/7PT CAPS

IN THE UNITED STATES, the mood in the colored stone wholesale market is mixed, as dealers are expressing concern that retailers are still not effectively marketing to millennials. However, during a trip to the recent Inhorgenta Munich Show, we observed strong business among the mostly youthful attendees. The emphasis of designers was color—not necessarily material. Exhibitors were working not only with natural gemstones but also with colored resins, fabrics, and fibers combined with gold, silver, or platinum to create a look that is big, bold, and bright.

In the colored stone market, tourmalines, garnets, beryls, and spinels still draw significant attention from designers and custom jewelers. Precision cutting of colored stones, especially among designers, is up sharply. Cutting for weight is no longer viable for those selling better-quality material.

VS1

MAY 2017

JCKONLINE.COM

A STORY TOLD CREATES A DIAMOND SOLD. Every diamond has a story. Telling a compelling one is key to driving sales and creating happy customers. That’s why AGS Laboratories offers Only My Diamond ™, an engaging online tool that brings the unique characteristics of your diamond to life in a visual, easy-to-understand format.

In turn, Only My Diamond ™ gives your customer the ability to share their diamond’s story with family and friends.

Suppliers and retailers: Experience a revolution in selling. Go online for your free demo—and for information on other valuable services, such as our popular diamond grading report for mounted goods.

Visit us at Booth L103, email support@agslab.com or call 877.FOR.0CUT (877.367.0288) to learn more.

www.agslab.com

Find Solutions For Your Store

Sunday, June 4 - T

y, June 8

D i s c o v e r s o l u t i o n s f o r y o u r S t o r e a t J C K Ta l k s . J C K Ta l k s a r m s retailers with the tools, insights and information necessar y to s u c c e e d i n t h e c u r r e n t r e t a i l c l i m a t e . J C K Ta l k s w i l l k i c k o f f o n

S u n d a y, J u n e 4 , o n e d a y b e f o r e t h e J C K L a s Ve g a s s h o w f l o o r o p e n s a n d w i l l c o n t i n u e o n M o n d a y, J u n e 5 w i t h a s p o t l i g h t o n o u r i n d u s t r y p a r t n e r s d u r i n g J C K Ta l k s - A f t e r n o o n w i t h t h e A s s o c i a t i o n s .

D O N ’ T M I S S T H E J C K TA L K S H O S T E D B R E A K F A S T O N

S U N D AY, J U N E 4 T H , S P O N S O R E D B Y :

Monday, June 5 - T

y, June 8

C o n t i n u e y o u r w e e k ( M o n d a y, J u n e 5 –

T h u r s d a y, J u n e 8 ) o n t h e s h o w f l o o r a t t h e Showcase Stage featuring morning vendor

presentations fol lowed by afternoon retailer panels and trend downloads from famed

industr y exper ts, editors, and bloggers. Join us in the evening for networking and cocktails

w i t h m e m b e r s o f t h e j e w e l r y i n d u s t r y.

T

e About JCK Las Vegas to

, Visit:

J C K O N L I N E . C O M /L A SV E G A S

Can’t Miss Events All Week Long.

JCK Las Vegas Kick-off Welcome P Sunday, June 4 | VIP

, Mandalay Bay

Yo u ’ r e i n v i t e d t o t h e 2 n d e d i t i o n o f t h e J C K L a s Ve g a s K i c k- o f f We l c o m e Pa r t y ! Tr a y p a s s e d c o c k t a i l s a n d c a s h b a r w i l l b e o f f e r e d .

V I P B a r i s l o c a t e d o n L e v e l 1 o f M a n d a l a y B a y. H e a d t o w a r d the Mandalay Bay Events Center and you won’t miss it!

Join Us as JCK Rocks the Bowl. New Location. New Wednesday, June 7 | B ooklyn bowl LV

8:00 PM

L a s Ve g a s J e w e l r y We e k w i l l c u l m i n a t e w i t h a n e p i c c e l e b r a t i o n u n l i k e a n y o t h e r. S a v e t h e d a t e f o r We d n e s d a y, J u n e 7 t h a n d r e g i s t e r t o d a y t o b e a p a r t o f t h i s b r a n d n e w r o c k i n ’ e x p e r i e n c e a t B r o o k l y n B o w l L a s Ve g a s . D o o r s o p e n a t 8 : 0 0 p m a n d t h e e v e n t i s o p e n t o a l l J C K L a s Ve g a s , J I S E x c h a n g e , a n d L U X U R Y b a d g e h o l d e r s .

E

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e

Follow JCK Events:

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@JCKEVENTS #JCKLASVEGAS

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88

MAY 2017

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

SHOWS & EVENTS

THE CALENDAR U.S.

INTERNATIONAL

• MAY

• MAY

1–2

INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD

7–9

ACCESSORIE CIRCUIT & ACCESSORIES THE SHOW

Brooklyn, N.Y.

New York City

iwjg.com

ubmfashion.com

5–7

12–14

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS Orlando, Fla. glwshows.com

INTERGEM Chicago intergem.com

6–7

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW Atlanta americanbead shows.com

DALLAS SPRING BEAD & JEWELRY SHOW Grapevine, Texas aksshow.com

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS Franklin, N.C. glwshows.com

GEM FAIRE Costa Mesa, Calif. gemfaire.com

GEM FAIRE Sacramento, Calif. gemfaire.com

INTERGEM Marlborough, Mass. intergem.com

20–21

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW

19–21

Knoxville, Tenn.

Santa Barbara, Calif.

20–22

GEM FAIRE gemfaire.com

INTERGEM Chantilly, Va. intergem.com

WEST COAST GEM & MINERAL SHOW Santa Ana, Calif. mzexpos.com

19–22

americanbead shows.com

2–6

18–21

Salem, Va.

Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates

Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

jws.ae

vietnamjewelry show.com

ROANOKE VALLEY SPRING GEM & MINERAL SHOW toteshows.com

GREENSBORO GIFT & JEWELRY SHOW Greensboro, N.C.

29–JUNE 1 INTERGEM Las Vegas intergem.com

gtshows.com

21–24

THE SANTA FE SYMPOSIUM

LAS VEGAS GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY & WATCH SHOW

6–9

OROAREZZO Arezzo, Italy oroarezzo.it

INTERNATIONAL JEWELRY + WATCH VIETNAM

26–28

VERONA MINERAL SHOW Verona, Italy veronamineral show.com

19–22

CHIBIMART Milan chibimart.it

Las Vegas glda.com

Albuquerque, N.M. santafesymposium.org

INTERNATIONAL JEWELRY AND MERCHANDISE SHOW

24–27

New Orleans

New Orleans

helenbrett.com

26–28

SOCIETY OF NORTH AMERICAN GOLDSMITHS snagmetalsmith.org

May Birthstone

GET READY FOR…

EMERALD

LUXURY JUNE 2–8 SWISS WATCH JUNE 4–6 JCK LAS VEGAS JUNE 5–8

Sliced emeralds in rhodium-plated 18k white gold with diamonds; $4,000; Irit Design; 310-383-5566; iritdesign.com

JCKONLINE.COM

ABU DHABI: PREDRAG VUCKOVIC/GETTY

Bring your sunscreen and your loupe to Abu Dhabi May 2–6.

SIGNATURE COLLECTION ON DISPLAY AT JCK LAS VEGAS FOR APPOINTMENTS: 1.855.ASK.EFFY EXT. 579

|

|

BOOTH: S-10600 & LUX-1700

SALES@EFFYGROUP.COM

Effy Men Notable Gemstones Embedded in Streamlined Sterling Silver Settings for the Distinguished Gentleman.

Classique Stunning Baguette and PavĂŠ-set Diamonds in a stately Pairing of 14K Yellow and White Gold.

Pavé Classica A Centuries Old Technique, Diamonds are Pavé-set in Exquisite 14K Gold.

Safari Inspired by the Exotic Elegance, Dazzling PavĂŠ-set Diamonds and Gemstones Provide Glamourous Charm in 14K Gold Designs.

Duo The Captivating Beauty of Intertwining 14K Yellow and White Gold, Accentuated by Vivid PavĂŠ-set Diamonds.

PAVÉ CLASSICA COLLECTION ON DISPLAY AT JCK LAS VEGAS FOR APPOINTMENTS: 1.855.ASK.EFFY EXT. 579

|

|

BOOTH: S-10600 & LUX-1700

SALES@EFFYGROUP.COM

SAFE

SECURE

PREVENT CRIMES AND OTHER DANGERS

AVOID RISK AND FEEL CONFIDENT WITH

WITH ADVICE FROM

COVERAGES TAILORED TO MEET THE NEEDS

OUR LOSS PREVENTION EXPERTS.

OF YOUR MANUFACTURING, WHOLESALING, OR HYBRID BUSINESS.

SUCCESSFUL

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JOIN A MUTUAL COMPANY THAT INVESTS

AGAIN IN A RESPONSIVE FASHION WITH A

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JEWELRY INDUSTRY’S PROSPERITY.

FOR ALL ITS WORTH J E W E L E R S M U T U A L . C O M | 800-558-6411

MARIKA TLV

Tel Aviv Urban

office@mijbymarika.com | MARIKADESERTGOLD.COM | +972-9-8854007

the industry authority

99

MAY 2017

FOR THE SUCCESS OF YOUR STORE

SHOP TALK Lauren Kaminsky EZ Pawn Corp. ezpawncorp.com Beauty & Essex bygoldgirl.com

SECONDHAND MODEL

With an unabashed love of all things gold and a flair for innovative marketing, Lauren Kaminsky is giving the pawn business a good name

VANESSA TIERNEY

BY EMILI VESILIND

SHOP TALK

INNOVATIVE RETAILER

100

Says Kaminsky: “Buying secondhand shouldn’t have the negative connotations it has.” (Pictured: a vintage collar from Beauty & Essex)

“I was always told that if my parents were going to get me something, it had to be gold.”

EAL GOLD IS real gold, even if you buy it in a pawnshop.

That’s the message 28-year-old Lauren Kaminsky—who goes by the name Gold Girl on her popular blog, ByGoldGirl—conveys to would-be customers every day.

As chief operating officer and co-owner of EZ Pawn Corp., a chain of pawnshops with 14 locations in the New York City area, Kaminsky wants to reframe the public perception of pawnshops as depots for the down-and-out.

Pawnshops, she contends, are also a bargain-filled resource for fine jewelry and luxury watch lovers.

“Secondhand gold jewelry gets polished and cleaned, and you can’t even tell that it’s ever been worn,” says Kaminsky, a thirdgeneration pawnbroker whose mission has been greatly aided by her glamorous second job: vintage jewelry curator for hip boutique restaurant Beauty & Essex, with locations in New York City, Los Angeles, and Las Vegas. “It’s a buy that literally has no downsides.”

MAY 2017

You grew up in your dad’s pawnshops, but how did you end up going into the business?

I had no desire to enter the family business; I don’t think I even knew entirely what it was until I got my hands in it. My dad needed help because his business was growing so quickly. I came in fresh out of college, where I had learned all these cool marketing techniques. In the pawn world, advertising was nonexistent in 2010. Immediately, I organized charity events, we participated in every single type of walk, and I worked on all these innovative ways to get our name out there.

We were the first pawnshop to do a subway campaign. My dad dressed up like Uncle Sam, which sounds goofy, but it worked.

People still remember those ads.

How did the collaboration with Beauty & Essex begin?

Right around when I started at the shops, Beauty & Essex was opening. You have to understand:

I’m the friend who’s making reservations for the hot new restaurant two months in advance. I’m such a foodie. I will travel for good pizza! My friend came in with a flyer that said a restaurant/ lounge/pawnshop was opening on the Lower East Side. I called them up and started asking all these questions—where’s your license? How are you doing pawn transactions after 7 p.m.?

Eventually, they set up a meeting with my dad. He overslept for it!

I was there and took the meeting in our Spanish Harlem store.

They told me they wanted to create a pawnshop vibe, not an actual pawnshop.… We were all about to do the handshake on a deal, when my dad walks in. We were catching him up to speed and I can see in his eyes that he’s thinking, We’re going to need bulletproof glass. I watched everyone’s faces go from bliss to Oh my God, what’s happening? But I was not allowing for this! I told them, “He’s joking!”

And they told him if they could partner with me, we had a deal.

That’s how it happened.

How do you merchandise the Beauty & Essex selections?

My niche has always been affordable gold jewelry. Gold is my thing. Growing up I was never allowed to buy name-brand sterling silver. I learned from a very young age that gold holds its value. One of the first experiences I had working in the pawnshop was a woman who came in to buy a gold chain for her son. He wanted a computer. And she said to him, “If you’re ever in trouble, this chain is what will get you out of it.” Having it is almost like having money.

GO TO jckonline.com/ be-part-of-jck-mag TO NOMINATE OUR NEXT INNOVATIVE RETAILER

JCKONLINE.COM

BUCK ENNIS/CRAIN’S NEW YORK BUSINESS

R

—Lauren Kaminsky

HUNDERTWASSER IMPERIAL

NEW COLLECTION

official.partner@freywille.com • Booth no. LUX1617 • FREYWILLE.COM | VIENNA

NEON GEMS INC.

Brilliantly Natural

Shop Talk

RETAIL THERAPY

TREND ZONE

BY EMILI VESILIND

Q: What jewelry styles and/or collections are you excited about stocking in 2017? a: “Over the past few years,

Visit us at: JCK-Luxury Las Vegas Salon 1032

ADAM GORMAN CO-OWNER I. GORMAN JEWELERS Washington, D.C. igorman.com

people are really moving in the direction of a vintage look. The way pavé and halos were really hot a while back—I’m feeling the same about vintage-style rings. We carry Single Stone, a Los Angeles–based brand that basically specializes in highend antique reproductions.

The diamonds are all antique diamonds that they use, so they’re rose cuts and old-mine cuts and they look beautiful in the rings. Not everyone wants an engagement ring that someone’s worn before. The customer reaction has been just great.”

a: “There’s been an uptick in the

popularity of affordable ‘wear and tear’ fashion jewelry in the store— looks from [bridge jewelry designer] Freida Rothman are our biggest seller. Bridal halo rings have moved from trend to mainstay, and stacking mismatched wedding bands are very in. Oh, and did I mention rose gold?”

DO YOU NEED RETAIL THERAPY? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

550 South Hill St., Ste. 1300 Los Angeles, CA 90013 800.NEON-GEMS | 213.627.0433 www.neongems.com | neongemsinc@yahoo.com

KATYA ANANIEVA CO-OWNER SHE’S UNIQUE Alexandria, Va. facebook.com/shesuniqueva

a: “I’m loving forward-facing

hoop earrings—they feel a little tribal and are very cool right now. I’m selling out of them like crazy; I can’t keep them in stock.

They’re so popular, I’m having a designer I know create some versions of them just for the store, which we’ll sell for around $170.”

JESSICA JONKER BUYER AND DESIGNER HERKNER JEWELERS Grand Rapids, Mich. herkner.com

a: “We’re 150 years old this

DEBBIE FOX CO-OWNER FOX FINE JEWELRY Ventura, Calif. foxfinejewelry.com

year and love jewelry with a storied past! The brand Nouveau 1910 has created some amazing pieces. We’re particularly thrilled about their Byzantine cross collection. Original Byzantineperiod bronze crosses are still being found on archaeological digs and shipwreck dives.

Nouveau 1910 collects these crosses and crafts them into pendants using both sterling silver and 18 karat gold, with diamond and gemstone accents.”

JCKONLINE.COM

SALON LUX 1021

BOOTH# 2936

BOOTH# H202

2 WEST 46 STREET, NEW YORK, NY 10036 | (800) 223-6639 | da@dagoldproducts.com | www.dagoldproducts.com

shop talk

STORE WE ADORE

107

86 GREENWICh aVE. GREENWICh, CoNN.

COPIOUS ROW

David Chines can spot a best seller in a matter of seconds. the 30-something CEo and founder of the East Coast retail concept Copious Row says that when he finds it, he just knows. and Chines doesn’t shy away from lesser-known brands. on the contrary, he embraces them.

BY KRISTIN YOUNG

Copious Row’s David Chines prides himself on championing up-and-coming designers.

JCKONLINE.COM

MAY 2017

shop talk

108

STORE WE ADORE

“I felt there was a need for the market to represent these people using my contacts and my background.”

—David Chines

T

HERE WERE MANY designers who were underrepresented,” says Chines, who came to the retail sector from LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, where he oversaw digital marketing, public relations, and social media for such brands as Fendi and Givenchy. He opened the first Copious Row on a seasonal basis in Sag Harbor, N.Y., two and a half years ago. Its popularity with well-heeled alpha women in their 40s and 50s led to the Greenwich, Conn., outpost, which opened in October. While the Sag Harbor spot is rustic and resortlike by nature, carrying primarily accessories and jewelry, Greenwich is more urban, and has expanded to ready-to-wear. Yet Chines’ philosophy for both stores is the same: “showcasing talents of designers from all over the world and bringing wearable fashionable pieces to the market.”

Top left: the stained glass– and Middle Eastern architecture– inspired pieces of Ralph Masri

EVERYDAY PRECIOUS JEWELRY Fine jewelry items in the store can be tagged anywhere from $700 to $100,000, but no matter the cost, Chines chooses pieces that are meant to be worn every day—not simply stashed away MAY 2017

JCKONLINE.COM

shop talk

110

STORE WE ADORE

Right: light, layering-friendly pieces by LJ Cross; below: bold, sculptural styles by Neha Dani

in a safe. Neha Dani, whose one-of-a-kind jewels are inspired by nature, movement, color, and light, is a customer favorite.

One pair of earrings looks like an exotic flower, mixing gold and green rhodium with clusters of diamonds, blue sapphires, and emerald cabochons. Another pair resembles flower petals, with leaves of 18k yellow gold covered in fancy colored and white diamonds. Dani’s breathtaking pieces inspire people to buy, Chines explains. “We’re in a tough retail market right now,” he says. “A lot of people have a lot of things. In order for them to buy more things, you really need to give them something that they can’t live without.”

Other designers represented include Jordan Alexander, Ralph Masri, Bibi van der Velden, and Delfina Delettrez, who’s known for her slightly surrealist style.

SERVICE AND PUTTING CUSTOMERS AT EASE For Chines, who eschewed the saturated New York City market, making shoppers feel comfortable and giving MAY 2017

them old-fashioned customer service are of paramount importance. Though its wares are high-end, Copious Row comes across as friendly, low-key, and welcoming. “It’s not a high-pressure environment,” he affirms. “The Greenwich store, especially, is like a dream closet with accessories, handbags, clothing, and jewelry.” Indeed, the store is open and airy with bright, natural light enhanced by a large modern chandelier. Black-and-white hardwood floors give way to crown molding and marble details. In early spring, which was still frigid, the stores’ windows featured mannequins in the snow surrounded by red cardinals.

WHAT’S IN THE NAME? If you are curious about the origins of the store’s name, “it’s a play on Savile Row,” Chines says, referring to London’s famous tailoring street. “And ‘copious’ captures the abundance of style.” More importantly, it flows. And when he came up with the name, he just knew.

DO YOU ADORE YOUR STORE? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE. JCKONLINE.COM

MADE IN THE USA

HAND CRAFTED

LIFETIME WARRANTY

LashbrookDesigns.com | (888) 252-7388 Visit us! JCK Las Vegas | JA NY Summer | Centurion Scottsdale

AWARD WINNING

SIZING FOR LIFE

113

the industry authority

MAY 2017

STAY AHEAD OF THE JEWELRY TRENDS

THE look the LOOK 2

1

THAT ’80 s SHOW

Pared-down metallics lend a grown-up vibe to statement earrings inspired by the MTV generation

BY RANDI MOLOFSKY

3

4 1/ Moon Phase drop earrings with black diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $4,000; Pamela Love; sales@ pamelalove.com; pamelalove.com

2/ Tau Disco double-drop earrings with brown diamonds in 18k gold and sterling silver; $30,220; VRAM; 310-859-9545; vramjewelry.com

5 3/ Mixed-Diamond Doorknockers in 18k gold; $7,980; Shay; 646-7456831; shayfinejewelry.com

JCKONLINE.COM

4/ Root earrings in 14k yellow gold–plated brass; $535; Jennifer Fisher; 888-255-0640; jenniferfisher.com

5/ Oval Marx earrings in Alpaca silver; $95; Anndra Neen; sales@ anndraneen.com; anndraneen.com

the look

RED CARPET

114

TROPHY LIVES

We combed the red carpet for the celebrity fashion and jewels that made us swoon (so far!) in 2017

BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

Dripstone earring with CZ, enamel, and pearl accents in black rhodium– plated silver; $179; Cristina Sabatini; 212-335-0774; cristinasabatini.com

MAY 2017

Verdura earrings in 18k white gold with Gemfields Zambian emeralds and diamonds; $497,500; Gemfields; 646-9300471; gemfields.com

UNDER $250,000

18k white gold earrings with 16.68 cts. t.w. diamonds and 32.07 cts. t.w. emeralds; $210,000; Butani; info@butani. com; butani.com

RUth NeGGA We could have made this entire feature about Ruth Negga, the Academy Award– nominated Loving actress who has quietly emerged as 2017’s mega-style star.

(Her stylist, Karla Welch, uses the hashtag #meganegga on her Instagram pics.)

At the Oscars, we adored Negga’s high-necked scarlet lace Valentino gown, but we were equally captivated by this after-party look: an embellished Oscar de la Renta dress with a high-low hem and a playful paint-splatter pattern, finished with Verdura x Gemfields drop earrings. Now that’s mega.

JCKONLINE.COM

SPLASH NEWS

UNDER $250

the look

RED CARPET

Rihanna Chopard collection earrings with aquamarine, pastel yellow and pastel pink sapphires, rubellites, rubies, tsavorite garnets, topaz, beryl, sapphires, paraiba tourmalines, lazulites, amethysts, and diamonds in 18k white gold and titanium; price on request; Chopard; 800-CHOPARD; chopard.com/us

UNDER $75,000

RIhANNA The Grammys are usually about lung-crushing body-con gowns, dangerously high hemlines, and necklines that are wardrobe malfunctions just waiting to happen. (Just how did Gaga keep that leather “jacket” in place anyway?) That’s why RiRi’s bikini-meets-ballgown Armani Privé ensemble was so perfect: It was sexy but playful—couture with a kick. High jewelry from her fave, Chopard, gave the look an extra dose of glam. Not pictured: the bedazzled flask from which she sipped throughout the telecast.

MAY 2017

18k black rhodium gold earrings with aquamarines, opals, rubies, sapphires, and tsavorites; €52,000 ($56,101); Lydia Courteille; 33-14-261-1171; lydiacourteille.com

UNDER $750 Crystal Flower earrings in goldplated pewter; $395; Oscar de la Renta; 888-782-6357; oscardelarenta.com

SPLASH NEWS

116

JCKONLINE.COM

Launch a movement We have it all. From fashion-forward to classic. The Royal Chain Gold Collection is what’s new, what’s next and what’s forever. It’s a name that’s synonymous with unmatched quality, selection and value in beautiful gold and silver jewelry.

And it’s guaranteed to help you create the momentum you need to grow and profit exponentially.

800.622.0960 | royalchain.com | Visit Us at JCK, Booth B36155

the look

RED CARPET

118

Four Seasons collection Branches earrings with 20 cts. t.w. Asscher-cut diamonds and 4.13 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; price on request; Cindy Chao the Art Jewel; info@ cindychao.com; cindychao.com

UNDER $7,500 Grand Ascension earrings with 1.42 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $6,499; Graziela Gems; 773-619-3999; grazielagems.com

MAY 2017

AMY ADAMS Though she was widely touted as the victim of a double Oscar snub—the fivetime nominee was overlooked for her star turns in 2016’s Nocturnal Animals and Arrival—Adams opted to accept the Academy’s standard consolation prize: serving as a presenter. As expected, she absolutely slayed in a bugle-beaded gown by her Animals director, Tom Ford, whose designs she’s been wearing throughout awards season. Well, who needs an Oscar when you can look like one?

SPLASH NEWS

UNDER $5,000

18k rose gold earrings with 0.82 ct. t.w. champagne and 0.2 ct. t.w. white diamonds with quartz over white mother-of-pearl; $4,225; Doves by Doron Paloma; 888-663-6837; dovesjewelry.com

JCKONLINE.COM

Catch Fire Want to ignite an explosion in sales? And see traffic heat up and stay hot? Angelica lets you capture every new and profitable trend with ease. Made from environmentally recycled metals, our whimsical, top-selling Angelica Collection has something for every passion and preference.

And it’s guaranteed to help you create the kind of momentum you need to grow and profit exponentially.

800.622.0960 | royalchain.com | Visit Us at JCK, Booth B36155

the look

120

RED CARPET

Grand Celestial necklace with pearshape solitaires in brilliant-cut diamond halos; price on request; Nirav Modi; 212-6030000; niravmodi.com

UNDER $100,000

Necklace in 18k white gold with 22.07 cts. t.w. diamonds; $98,000; Andreoli; 212-582-2050; andreoliusa.com

We’ve said it before, and we’ll say it again (in fact, we’re saying it on page 132 in “The Big Thrill”): This is the year of the statement piece. Clearly, Davis got the memo. Every time she showed up to collect a well-deserved prize for her turn in Fences, she was wearing some stunning, sizable jewels—though perhaps none more stunning (or sizable) than this Nirav Modi diamond bib necklace at the Screen Actors Guild Awards. Between the white diamonds and the white strapless Vivienne Westwood gown, Davis was positively red-hot.

MAY 2017

UNDER $1,000 Remi handmade antique silver– plated choker with Swarovski crystals; Dylanlex; $640; info@dylanlex.com; dylanlex.com

JCKONLINE.COM

SPLASH NEWS

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Made of easy care stainless steel and featuring a single diamond and special message on every piece, it appeals to everyone from baby boomers to millennials. It’s available in cuff and adjustable friendship styles to fit every wrist.

And it’s guaranteed to help you create the momentum you need to grow and profit exponentially.

800.622.0960 | royalchain.com | Visit Us at JCK, Booth B36155

THE LOOK

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Melissa earrings in 24k gold and oxidized gilver with 0.55 ct. t.w. diamonds; $5,085

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

24 KARAT MAGIC MAN

For a quarter of a century, Yossi Harari has been doling out surgery-free face-lifts with his glowing gold jewelry designs

BY VENESSA LAU

Sara rose-cut mosaic ring in 24k gold and oxidized gilver with 1.5 cts. t.w. diamonds; $13,135; Yossi Harari; 201-357-5010; yossiharari.com

MAY 2017

O

VER THE PAST few years, Israeli jewelry designer Yossi Harari has been hitting milestone after milestone: In 2015, he celebrated his very own golden birthday, the big 5-0. In 2016, he marked 25 years in business, 15 of those in the United States. So is he stopping to catch his breath? Hardly.

He’s poised for an even bigger and busier 2017.

It’s a bone-chilling Manhattan afternoon, and, his hands nestling a cup of Starbucks, Harari runs down the lengthy list of upcoming ventures, his back to a window at a Midtown showroom. There’s a revamp of his website, which will include an online store, a project spearheaded by his longtime partner (work and otherwise), Yaron Benit.

He’s growing his wholesale business, with a push into Asian and European markets. Also in the pipeline: a debut men’s collection inspired by the one-offs he often fashions for himself, which will be part of an also-new Heritage line of popular classics (e.g., his lariat necklaces from the ’90s).

While the new site bows this spring, he remains mum on the other launch dates. “We can’t open all the floors of the store in one day,” Harari laughs. He’s dressed in a casual blur of gray—gray hoodie, jeans, and sneakers— punctuated by a slim camo scarf and bright, gleaming jewelry. Sprinkled among the latter are some of his new men’s pieces: textured, hammered cuffs and a beaded lariat, featuring turquoise, agate, and onyx, with a boho tilt à la the Rolling Stones in Marrakesh.

As much as Harari is expanding, he’s likewise contracting. He’s bringing marketing and distribution in-house, and cutting down on the number of styles each JCKONLINE.COM

THE LOOK

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

124

Helen mini diamond earrings in 24k gold and oxidized gilver with 0.6 ct. t.w. diamonds; $4,795

Roxanne earrings in 24k gold with French clip; $4,985

season. “We just counted and I did 9,000 SKUs in 18 years!” he exclaims. “I’ve been giving away too many ideas for other designers to take. I have a new strategy now.

I’m thinking more about branding.”

GOLDEN BOY All these moves are a quarter century in the making, the obvious next chapter after slowly and steadily developing a reputation and a loyal clientele. Yet Harari’s story goes back much further. Rewind to 1973. Harari is 8, and tells his parents and grandparents he is going to be the family jeweler.

This precociousness clicks once you understand Harari’s upbringing, which, split among Israel, Turkey, and Switzerland, was rather comfortable, thanks to his maternal grandfather. “He was a very flamboyant person and had a very colorful life,” recalls Harari. “He traveled the world: Paris, Lugano, Milan, New Orleans…” Whenever he returned, he would bring a tray of pricey jewelry for Harari’s mother and grandmother. It also doubled as Harari’s toy box of sorts.

Once, when he was 11 and his parents were away, Harari plucked a 5 ct., D-flawless, emerald-cut diamond solitaire

“You can’t beat this color—it’s beautiful. Put on my 24 karat gold earrings, and your face just glows.”

—Yossi Harari MAY 2017

Lilah double D cuff in oxidized gilver with 1.8 cts. t.w. diamonds; $6,770

from the vault (“I had the combination”) and, with his grandmother’s help, had the family jeweler rework it with three rows of baguette diamonds around the center stone.

Mom’s reaction? “ ‘Wonderful, but bring it back. I’m not going to wear this,’ ” he remembers. “It was too over-thetop for her.” Later, when he was studying at the GIA in Los Angeles, they redesigned that ring together, raising the center stone and placing the baguettes around the base wall.

He is quick to note, though, how antithetical the finery of his childhood—which also included a palatial home in Tel Aviv’s Ramat HaSharon bedecked in baroque and rococo furnishings (currently his showroom)—is to his current sensibility. “I grew up with Cartier, Bulgari, Harry Winston jewelry. I was never attracted to create those styles; for me, it was an intrigue to come up with something different,” says Harari, who would find that “something different” during his art history studies at Tel Aviv University—and especially when he learned about the Hellenistic and Roman arts.

You know the works. The mythological gods and goddesses. Venus de Milo. Naturalistic expressions and bodies.

For Harari, however, the appeal was centered on something very different. “That period was so eclectic,” he says. “It was the first time an empire took over different areas—granulation from Damascus, pounding from the Etruscans—and they mixed it all into one world, one empire. I mean, this is before the internet.” Another early influence: Greek jeweler Ilias Lalaounis. “There is not one stone in his designs and they’re beautiful,” says Harari. “What is it? It’s the metal.

With those other jewelry designers, it’s about gems.”

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4JMWFS +FXMSZ

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DESIGNER SHOWCASE

METAL HEAD

Rachel diamond link necklace in 24k gold and oxidized gilver with 1.8 cts. t.w. diamonds; $19,850

Libra Mica bangle in oxidized gilver and 24k gold; $1,485

MAY 2017

Libra Roxanne cuff with 6.5 cts. t.w. cognac diamonds in oxidized gilver and 24k gold; $10,770

Harari opened his company in 1991 under the name Olympia, in a nod to Mount Olympus. And even though those first collections featured gold-plated sterling silver, his signature of exalting the metal above all else was already there. In time, the Yossi Harari name—he dropped Olympia after entering the U.S. market in 2000—became synonymous not just with gold, but with the 24k yellow gold of antiquity. “You can’t beat this color—it’s beautiful,” Harari enthuses. “I call it the face-lifter. Put on my 24 karat gold earrings, and your face just glows.”

There’s a warmth to his designs that goes beyond the sun-kissed shades. Nothing is too perfect or sleek; you can sense the hand of the craftsman behind the piece. The entire collection is created in his workshop in Istanbul— even the tools. “We don’t do casting, we don’t do wax carving,” Harari explains. “The secret of 24 karat gold is pounding. You have to pound 3,000 times on the same area to increase the density of the molecules. Everything is made by hand like little sculptures.” Even when Harari incorporates stonework, as with his trademark rose-cut diamonds, the look is more organic and earthy—“bohemian chic, as opposed to bling. My ladies are not about the bling.”

Not that Harari doesn’t stretch beyond that golden comfort zone. His upcoming men’s line, for instance, is primarily silver-based. “Men prefer the white metal color,” he acknowledges. “Just look at men and their watches.” He taps his own as a case in point. And then there’s “gilver”: During the 2008 recession and the subsequent upsurge of the price of gold, Harari navigated the challenging times with his own distinct alloy of silver and 24k gold. “I was lucky,” Harari says. “I had already experimented with oxidized gilver in 2005 for my [Victorian-inspired] Sara and Helen collections.” The innovation helped him skirt the economic blows that befell others in the industry.

Still, 24k gold—which represents 70 percent of his business—is his love; he’s fond of calling it his muse. “There’s something that just attracts my eye,” Harari says, before jumping into a childhood anecdote—he has plenty—that perfectly expresses his ever-constant fascination with the handmade.

It was 1974, and his family had made a trip to the Magic Kingdom at Walt Disney World in Orlando, Fla. Shortly after entering the park, however, his parents lost the 9-year-old Harari. The culprit? A glassblower near the entrance on Main Street. “I was mesmerized,” Harari remembers. “I was excited and intrigued by the way he was pulling and playing with the glass. I didn’t even realize my family had kept walking. I was watching for 15 minutes before I noticed I was alone.”

Today, Harari’s collection also includes jewelry in the style of blown glass. With one big difference: “We do it in gold.”

JCKONLINE.COM

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Q&A

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Asks...

MEGAN THORNE The Fort Worth, Texas–based designer puts her own colorful twist on modern vintage

NOW THAT ALL things vintage are hotter than ever, there couldn’t be a better time to get to know Megan Thorne. Whether working with emerald or antique-cut sparklers (favorite diamond cuts) or a dazzling array of sapphires, Thorne is the go-to artist for beautifully embellished but not overdone heirloom-quality rings. In Vegas, she’ll be debuting hand-engraved bridal designs and a fine collection focused on “irreverent color.” Denim- and berry-colored sapphires for everyone! —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO Age: 36 Number of years in the biz: 10-plus Family and pets: My husband, Jaz, is also my business partner.

Our son, Elwood, is 1½ years old. And our shepherd/Lab mix, Amos, completes the family.

Describe your personal style: A bit rumpled, hopefully masquerading as kooky-charming.

First piece you ever designed: A hollow ring to hold perfume while in college—it leaked, but it was pretty!

MAY 2017

Megan Thorne Calliope Ring with rose-cut diamond, Ceylon sapphire, and trillion pink sapphire

Megan Thorne ribbon-frame studs with rose-cut diamonds and round blue sapphires

Piece of jewelry you’re most proud of: Our engagement rings.

We are sharing in such a special moment—it really is an honor.

Best piece of advice you ever received: “Rip off the BandAid.” Stalling when there is something uncomfortable to deal with rarely helps: Have that talk with an employee; call your important account with an issue. In most cases the problem doesn’t fix itself. It just grows, and then you have a bigger mess.

Worst piece of advice: My high school friend in the ’90s: “You’d look awesome with Drew Barrymore brows! I’ll pluck them for you!” I’m still trying to grow them in 20 years later.

How come Drew’s have grown back?!?

First job ever: Ear piercer at a cheapy mall accessories store.

How did you get started designing jewelry? Metalsmithing class in college taken just for fun.

If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing?

Perfumer.

Jewelry you’re wearing right now: Wedding band and a few sets of yellow gold stud earrings.

Five items on your desk right now: Teacup, digital caliper, pencils/markers, Wacom tablet, photo of my son.

Five songs on your playlist: If I’m listening to something, it’s ESPN Radio or my husband’s record collection. Albums in rotation: Ridin’ High, Jerry Jeff Walker; On the Track, Leon Redbone; Coming Home, Leon Bridges; Don’t Shoot Me I’m Only the Piano Player, Elton John; You’re Living All Over Me, Dinosaur Jr. Exercise regimen: Running with my son to the park.

What did you have for breakfast? Migas taco.

Guilty pleasure: Threadbare concert T-shirts.

Drink (daytime/evening): Green tea/anything with gin.

Scents: “Mississippi Medicine,” DS & Durga; “Douce Amere,” Serge Lutens.

A must-visit for anyone in the DFW area: Billy Bob’s Texas in the Fort Worth Stockyards for campy Texas fun with honkytonk music, dance lessons, and bull riding.

Favorite movie: Annie from the 1980s—I love Carol Burnett and Bernadette Peters.

Who would play you in your life story? Juliette Lewis. Because she’d need to meet me for research and we could hang out.

Personal motto: “Bump the lamp.” I think this Who Framed Roger Rabbit philosophy is great for both work and life.

JCKONLINE.COM

MARTINI: MINDSTYLE/ISTOCK/GETTY; ANNIE: COLUMBIA/COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION

From far left: Megan Thorne; her favorite movie, Annie (with Bernadette Peters, Carol Burnett, and Tim Curry); and rock hound Amos.

Better made.

Better cut.

Better for the world.

¨

Charles & Colvard creates the world’s most brilliant gem, while leading the way for environmentally responsible choices in the jewelry industry. Forever One™ moissanite is everything today’s informed consumer wants.

Offer your customers the moissanite experience by displaying Charles & Colvard Forever One™ Gem Kits in your store. Gem Kits are sold by select distributors.

Please call for more information: 800-210-4367.

Visit us at the JCK Las Vegas Booth #B57004 For a complete list of authorized distributors, please visit: www.charlesandcolvard.com/trade-partners/authorized-dealers

MULTICOLOR PLISSÉ DRESS: M MISSONI/WWW.M-MISSONI.COM. MEXICAN FIRE OPAL PENDANT IN 18K YELLOW GOLD WITH DIAMONDS ON A 30-INCH CORAL NECKLACE WITH SIGNATURE SWIRL CLASP, $43,000, ERICA COURTNEY, 323-938-2373, ERICACOURTNEY.COM; VICTORIA SERPENT CUFFS IN 18K YELLOW GOLD AND BLACK RHODIUM SILVER WITH DIAMONDS AND GREEN AND PINK TOURMALINE, $10,500, WITH DIAMONDS AND PINK TOURMALINE, $16,000, SORELLINA, 646-745-6831, SORELLINANEWYORK.COM; BAROQUE SOUTH SEA PEARL RING IN 18K YELLOW GOLD WITH DIAMONDS, $8,755, JORDAN ALEXANDER, 646-745-6831, JORDANALEXANDERJEWELRY.COM

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FEATURES

Photograph by Pat ric Shaw

MAY 2017

Starlight Constellation Circlet with Swarovski crystal stars, $825, Jennifer Behr, wholesale@jenniferbehr. com, jenniferbehr.com; Australian opal, Lotus Garnet, and diamond neckpiece in 14k rose gold, $34,000, ParlĂŠ Jewelry Designs, 800-635-9800, parlegems.com; Flower Lace ring, $1,375, Double Diamond Filigree ring, $1,125, Moroccan Flower Filigree ring, $1,250, all in 14k rose gold with diamonds, Liven, info@ livenco.com, livenco.com; diamond ring in 14k yellow gold, $3,630, Sylvie Collection, 800-992-3426, sylviecollection.com

Jewelr y st yling by Randi Molofsky

Ph o t o g ra p h y by Pa t r i c Sh a w

T H E R E ’ S N O S U C H T H I N G A S T O O M U C H J E W E L R Y. G O B O L D , O R G O H O M E .

L E AV E Y O U R L I G H T LY L AY E R E D L O O K S A N D D E L I C AT E S E N S I B I L I T I E S B E H I N D . T H I S Y E A R ,

THE BIG THRILL

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Gold Caged Ball drop earrings and Triple Strand Ball drop choker, both in 18k yellow gold with diamonds; $7,980– $12,495; Shay; 646-7456831; shayfinejewelry.com

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Necklace with prehnite tumble beads, aquamarine, pearls, and natural fancy colored diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $58,300, Vivaan, 212-302-0402, vivaan.us; jade and green tourmaline ivy earrings in 18k yellow gold, $29,400, Erica Courtney, 323-9382373, ericacourtney.com

HAIR: FRED VAN DE BUNT/ART DEPARTMENT; MAKEUP: REGINA HARRIS; STYLIST: VLADIMYR PIERRE-LOUIS; MANICURIST: RACHEL SHIM USING DERMELECT ‘ME’ IN COAT D’AMOUR/ARTISTS BY TIMOTHY PRIANO; PROP STYLIST (FLOWER): ELIZABETH PRESS; PINK DRAPED DRESS: BALMAIN/STYLELEND.COM; (PREVIOUS PAGE) BEADED CHIFFON DRESS: CUSHNIE ET OCHS/CUSHNIEETOCHS.COM

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COST THE FASHION JEWELRY SCENE IS HOT TER—AND MORE STYLISH—THAN EVER. WE ASKED BUYERS FROM THE C O U N T RY ’ S C H I C E S T R E TA I L E R S , F RO M B A R N E Y S TO

B LO O M I E’S, TO B R E A K D OW N T H E TO P T R E N D S.

By Clarissa Cruz

1

Floral sculpture earring in goldplated brass; $675 (sold singly); Paige Novick for Tibi; sales@tibi. com; tibi.com

JEWELRY IS ALWAYS the quickest way to change up a look, but this season jewelry is the look, with dramatic shapes, vivid pops of color, and distinctive styling taking center stage (read: The single-earring phenom wasn’t a one-hit wonder).

But the biggest overall trend? Consumers are insisting they get their money’s worth, giving rise to a new category called “fine fashion,” says Lincoln Moore, Saks Fifth Avenue senior vice president and general merchandise manager of accessories.

“Customers can purchase pieces with quality material at accessible price points, such as 14 karat gold necklaces with diamond accents for less than $1,500, which was unheard of years ago.”

Sarah Blair, senior vice president of women’s accessories and shoes at Barneys New York, and Erica Russo, operating vice president and fashion director for accessories and beauty at Bloomingdale’s, have seen this shift firsthand. Blair says in the $1,500-and-under range, buyers are showing more interest in precious stones and metals.

“The Bloomingdale’s girl appreciates emerging designer talent as long as there is a perceived value,” affirms Russo. “Designs with elements of semiprecious stones, real gold plating, and hand-set stones resonate with our customer.”

In other words, there’s no better time to get the most bang for your accessory buck. Here are the top fashion jewelry trends that will continue through fall, according to buyers at major retail stores across the country.

SPOTLIGHT

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TUM E SHOP

2

Inspiration piece using spring-summer 2018 Swarovski crystals; Swarovski North America; 213-489-2393; swarovski.com

3

Earrings in 14k gold– plated brass with carnelian, clear quartz, and champagne baguettes; $352; Bounkit; 212-2441877; bounkit.com

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Moneta stone choker with motherof-pearl, chrysocolla, and mookaite; $795; Vita Fede; customerservice@ vitafede.com; vitafede.com

1. DRAMA CLASS Shoppers are still looking for high-impact jewelry, and if the fall 2017 runways are any indication, they will have plenty of choices. From the oversize Art Deco–inspired necklaces at Prada to the sculptural earrings at Proenza Schouler to the hiphop styles at Marc Jacobs, the statement trend is not for wallflowers. “It’s all about bigger pieces—larger-scale earrings and dramatic stones,” says Melissa Geiser, jewelry buyer at Dallas luxury department store Stanley Korshak.

The look is one that resonates at the large chain stores as well. “For fall, we are already loving the street influences of bold gold chains, layered pendants, and statement earrings,” says Russo. Moore singles out brands such as Oscar de la Renta, Aurélie Bidermann, and Lele Sadoughi for their “bold, oversize, striking pieces.”

2. CLUTCH THE PEARLS The luminescent orbs are as popular as ever, but these aren’t your grandmother’s pearls. “They continue to be a strong and important trend, especially mixed with gold for a fresh update,” says Russo, who notes that Kate Spade’s and Rebecca Minkoff’s takes on pearls are particularly popular. “We also love pieces from Mateo, one of our newest brands, that include diamonds.”

Paul Schneider, owner of Portland, Ore.–based Twist, says that pearls are not only paired with diamonds, they are often replacing them. “I’m seeing a lot of pearls worn where people traditionally wear diamonds—rings, necklaces, and combined with other stones.” He singles out Mizuki as one designer who offers “fashionable, wearable, affordable” pearl pieces.

3. EVERYTHING OLD IS NEW AGAIN For those whose sensibilities are more old-school than over-the-top, designers will be offering pieces that are traditional with a twist.

“Antique and vintage pieces, baguette-cut stones, and using classic cuts in unique ways [are especially strong],” Blair says.

“This creates pieces that are substantial without being flashy.”

4. MIX MASTERS They may be interested in trends, but customers still want to give their jewelry a personal touch. “Clients want pieces they can mix and wear in unique ways,” Blair explains. Top trends

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Earrings in goldplated brass with Swarovski crystals, vintage stones, and textile; €132 ($142); Anton Heunis; sales @antonheunis.com; antonheunis.com

include single earrings (Ileana Makri, Shihara), layered bracelets, and chokers, especially in lighter, more delicate styles (Carbon & Hyde, Finn).

Twist’s Schneider seconds the single-earring look. “Most jewelers now are doing big collections of single earrings,” he says. “Multiple holes used to be for really young kids—now everyone’s doing it.”

The choker trend is also expected to last through the fall, with new materials and price points. “The customer is layering, starting with chokers, and then adding dainty pendants to create a personalized look,” Russo says.

Moore is particularly keen on the numerous choker styles he saw on the fall 2017 runways. “Prada, Marni, and Gucci collections offer a variety of lengths and mixedmedia pieces to help pull off the trend. We also love pieces

by Marli and Diane Kordas,” he adds.

5. IN LIVING COLOR Color is back in a big way, reflecting the movement in fashion. “Global influence is a huge trend in readyto-wear for spring 2017 and has translated to fashion jewelry as well,” Russo says. “We’re seeing colorful, whimsical styles adorned with special touches like pompoms and tassels.”

Gemstones in natural shades, particularly green tones, will grab the limelight (with Pantone’s 2017 color of the year, Greenery, leading the charge). “There will be a whole spectrum of greens, from peridot to emerald,” says Geiser, who also anticipates an upswing in earthy materials such as purpleheart wood, ebony, bamboo, and bronze.

6. WHITE HEAT After several seasons of yellow-gold domination, white metals are getting their moment to shine. “There has definitely been a resurgence in white gold and silver,” Geiser says. She particularly likes Julie Cohn’s statement sterling pieces as well as the sculptural earrings, pendants, and necklaces from Patricia von Musulin.

That said, yellow gold isn’t going anywhere. “We used to have to convince people to try yellow; now they come in looking for it,” Schneider says.

6

Crystal quartz and mother-of-pearl doublet sterling silver hoop earrings; $395; Stephen Dweck; sales@ stephendweck.com; stephendweck.com

HEY, LOOK ME OVER! The best places to find new fashion jewelry:

NY Now: Every February and September at New York City’s Javits Center, NY Now features home, lifestyle, and handmade collections that display what’s new and on trend in specialty retail. (nynow.com) JCK Las Vegas: Each June, more than 23,000 domestic and international retailers gather at the Mandalay Bay Resort & Casino in Las Vegas to showcase the most popular jewelry trends. (lasvegas.jckonline.com) JIS Miami: Held at the Miami Beach Convention Center three times a year, with the biggest event in October, JIS is a must-attend for retailers in Latin America, the Caribbean, and the United States. (jisshow.com) Bijorhca: The only international trade show for fine and fashion jewelry and watches in France, this event is held in January and September at the Parc des Expositions in Paris. (bijorhca.com) Maison & Objet Paris: This lifestyle show, held in January and September at the Paris Nord Villepinte convention center, covers design, furniture, textiles, and fragrances in addition to jewelry. (maison-objet.com) Note: JCK and JIS are owned by Reed Exhibitions, the parent company of JCK magazine.

18k white gold pendant with 9.4 cts. t.w. round, 1.78 cts. t.w. baguette, and 0.16 ct. t.w. marquise diamonds, $64,400; small platinum pendant with 4.51 cts. t.w. emerald and 1.82 cts. t.w. round diamonds, $95,200; platinum necklace with 23.48 cts. t.w. round diamonds, $246,400; JYE Luxury Collection; 415-621-8880; jyescorp.com

Kaleidoscope earrings with kunzite, mint-green tourmaline, pink sapphire, tsavorite, and red spinel in 18k white gold with diamonds; $44,450; Dallas Prince Designs; 310-625-0200; dallasprincedesigns.com

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S P R I N G A W A K E N I N G T U R N OV E R A G R E E N L E A F A N D TA P I N TO T H E L AT E S T T R E N D S : PEAR-SHAPE GEMS; LONG PENDANTS; V I C TO R I A N - E S Q U E C O C K TA I L R I N G S ; BIB NECKLACES; BOLD, BESPOKE B R I D A L ; A N D D E C O D E TA I L S

Photography by Kevin Cremens Jewelry styling by Randi Molofsky

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Heirloom necklace with green tourmaline and diamonds in 18k rose gold; $9,950; Dallas Prince Designs; 310-625-0200; dallasprincedesigns.com

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14k yellow gold, prasiolite, and freshwater pearl cocktail ring; $4,395; Le Vian; 877-2-LEVIAN; levian.com

Le Vian 14k yellow gold and diamond ring with chrome diopside center and freshwater pearl accents; $9,495

Australian opal doublet neckpiece in 14k white gold with diamonds; $32,095; ParlĂŠ Jewelry Designs; 800-635-9800; parlegems.com

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Zircon Isabelle ring in 18k yellow gold with tsavorite garnet and diamonds; $75,000; Erica Courtney; 323-938-2373; ericacourtney.com

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PROP STYLIST: SARA WACKSMAN/KING MANAGEMENT AGENCY

Green tourmaline earrings in 18k white gold with diamonds; $11,440; Vivaan; 212-302-0402; vivaan.us

FA L L F O R WA R D

S T RO N G WO M E N A N D S T R I K I N G J EW E L RY F LO O D E D T H E RU N WAY S I N NEW YORK, LONDON, MILAN, AND PARIS. HERE’S HOW TO ARM YOURSELF FOR NEXT SEASON’S TOUGH-MEETS-CHIC FASHIONS. B y Ve n e s s a L a u

T

RUCKER HATS AND extra-long ties aside, our president isn’t exactly known as a fashion influence. And yet, the leader of the free world cast an especially long shadow over the fall 2017 collections as designers found themselves increasingly reacting to the commander in chief’s policies and positions. And—spoiler alert (if you’ve been hiding under a rock!)—the fashion votes don’t fall in his favor.

During New York Fashion Week—where, the week before, protesters stormed the streets and JFK Airport to decry his travel ban 1.0—political gestures were omnipresent.

Mara Hoffman featured readings by the four co-chairs of the Women’s March in Washington, D.C. Monse opened with Robert De Niro’s voice booming about the immigrant experience in a clip from the 2015 short Ellis. There was the bounty of statement tees—featuring such phrases as Feminist AF at Jonathan Simkhai, Nevertheless, she persisted at Prabal Gurung, We are all human beings at Creatures of Comfort, and even a cheeky take on DJT’s infamous red baseball cap: Public School’s Make America New York hats.

But as the season stretched across the Atlantic, it quickly became apparent that everyone had gotten caught in the undertow of the current political scene—not just those residing under the broad stripes and bright stars. London

gave us Ashish Gupta’s all-over sequin More glitter, less Twitter top. In Milan, we saw pussy hats at Missoni and outsize messages of Equality, Courage, and Love emblazoned on the clothes at Versace. And in Paris, Talbot Runhof sent out a finale of sleeveless blouses jazzed up with contrast-color text. The last one read Sad! More subtle responses abounded as well. Milly’s Michelle Smith, for example, dove into deconstruction as a way to work through a dispirited state of mind; she titled the collection Fractured, after her postelection feelings. Karl Lagerfeld offered a galactic escape at Chanel, complete with a 115-foot-high rocket-ship backdrop. Some designers explored strength and empowerment with broad-shouldered power suiting and toughened punk attitudes, while others shone a nostalgic spotlight on the United States itself—most notably Raf Simons in his debut at Calvin Klein, a standout retooling of our familiar fashion tropes (varsity sweaters, denim, quilting) set against a Sterling Ruby installation of mop buckets and cheerleader pom-poms called “Sterling Ruby Imagined America.” It all brought to mind the closing line in Meryl Streep’s speech from the Golden Globes in January: “Take your broken heart, make it into art.”

Well, the art begot fashion, and the fashion begot trends.

Here, a look at what’s to come.

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would really go for it and pair bold, strong jewelry that evokes a sense of masculinity,” she says. “We’re thinking thick chains and high-carat metal to enhance a piece’s ability to stand out on its own. Lean into the trend.”

Of course, where would fashion be without contrast? Many designers injected those masculine overtures with a bit of froth— say, cutting soft, billowing gowns from plaid (Jenny Packham) or augmenting a strong-shouldered coat with floral embroidery and gold brocade (Antonio Marras). Quick hits of feminine finery offered a similar counterpoint. At Bottega Veneta, for instance, Tomas Maier’s precision tailoring was styled with petite bejeweled earrings; Zuhair Murad gave his models pretty rings and earrings topped with crystals and pink gems. And on that note…

trength, grit, verve, nerve—designers had empowerment on the brain. Grab if you dare, the urban armor suggested. Junya Watanabe went cone-stud crazy, and Alexander Wang opted for street-wise chain-link bracelets and collars. Olivier Rousteing’s army at Balmain (pictured), in a dizzying array of patchwork animal skins, was positively Amazonian in its warriorlike vibe.

But more than this rebel yell, the season’s power-dressing trend found its most popular form in menswear: Runways were brimming with pantsuits and oversize tailoring. Even the prominent patterns were in step: Get ready for houndstooth, herringbone, and glen plaids, not to mention tartan and checks of all sorts.

As for what this means for jewelry, Eliza Spell of Nine Roses Jewelers in Richmond, Va., recommends doubling down. “We 2/ Rainbow mini pavé link choker in 18k mixed gold with diamonds and gemstones; $7,140; Shay; 646-7456831; shayfinejewelry.com

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1/ Link earrings with hanging T-bar in 18k gold–plated brass; $248 (sold as pair); Mawi; sales@mawi. co.uk; mawi.co.uk

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3/ 24k gold–plated Mini Titan Stone ring in gold plate with onyx; $230; Vita Fede; customerservice@ vitafede.com; vitafede.com

4/ Cuff in 18k yellow gold; $18,200; Maxior; 55-11-3105-4292; maxior. com.br

5/ Shina earrings in bronze with dark horn; $455; Ashley Pittman; marisa@ashleypittman.com; ashleypittman.com

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retty. It’s not a word that designers tend to embrace, at least not without qualifying it so the look is more twisted, more imperfect. But jewelers will be excited to hear that—after a period of the experimental, sculptural stuff—glamorous, glitzy, and feminine bijoux made a return to the runway. We saw colorful gemstone rings, framed in diamonds, from Tiffany & Co. at Luisa Beccaria; lovely crystal clusters at Jason Wu; ultra-ornate bibs and brooches for latter-day Merle Oberons at Miu Miu; and antique dazzlers, including a beautiful Moorish bust necklace, at Alberta Ferretti. Jeremy Scott, for Moschino (pictured), riffed on the estate look in his recycling-themed show with gigantic fourprong sparklers done trompe l’oeil–style on cardboard.

1/ Earrings with spinel, tsavorite, mandarin garnet, tanzanite, tourmaline, and diamonds in 18k gold; $11,250; Trésor Collection; info@ tresorcollection.com; tresorcollection.com

2/ Gardens of Xochimilco necklace with fancy sapphires, tsavorites, and fire opals in 18k gold; price on request; Lydia Courteille; 33-14-261-1171; lydiacourteille.com

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Pearls proved to be defining details, as designers from Joseph Altuzarra to Thom Browne piled them onto ready-to-wear.

Manish Arora even dotted models’ faces and arms with pearl body beads (poll: Does this fall under beauty or accessories?).

While pearls have been trending for the past few seasons, we saw progressively inventive takes on the style—like the almost comically Brobdingnagian seed-pearl tassel earrings at Andrew Gn. In his space odyssey for Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld created a starry look with an exuberant use of crystals and pearls; Christopher Kane achieved a holographic vibe with iridescent mother-of-pearl earrings and brooches; and Marco de Vincenzo suspended bold pearl collars and briolette earrings in Plexiglas.

3/ Ring with 1 ct. t.w. white and brown diamonds and 6 cts. t.w. red sapphires; $12,600; Pasquale Bruni at the ANIMA Group; 800-868-5532; pasqualebruni.com

4/ Earrings with Colombian emeralds, sapphires, tourmaline, turquoise, and South Sea pearls; price on request; Irene Neuwirth; 310450-6063; ireneneuwirth.com

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y now you’ve no doubt read about—or seen the Instagram snaps of—Marc Jacobs’ outing inspired by the 2016 series Hip-Hop Evolution. The poster for the four-part documentary, which traces the genre from the ’70s to the ’90s, features a slew of big, big, big chunky gold chain and pendant necklaces; Jacobs’ runway (pictured left) was no different, except his finery was done in collaboration with artist Urs Fischer.

But Jacobs wasn’t the only one going for the mammoth effect à la Curtis Blow and Run-D.M.C. There were gargantuan swirling pearl hoops—not to mention a life-size hand cast in gold and slung around the neck for a heavy-duty necklace—from Y/Project (pictured right), in an ode to both rap royalty and actual royalty à la Marie Antoinette; dramatic articulated metal necklaces that fell down the body to the waist at Maison Margiela; amped-up chain collars, each link a colorful huddle of beads, at Dries Van Noten; and hefty gold sunburst pendants at Fausto Puglisi. Even traditional cameos got a steroid treatment over at Mulberry; its designer Johnny Coca magnified them into fist-size pendants swinging from necklaces.

1/ 49 ct. Mandala crystal dome with diamonds and enamel in 20k yellow gold; $17,000; Buddha Mama; 305-439-2059; buddhamama.com

2/ Goldtone Drift Tassel necklace with Art Deco–inspired feather pendant; $350; Lulu Frost; ashlee@ lulufrost.com; lulufrost.com

3/ Necklace with onyx hoops and diamonds in 18k gold and platinum; price on request; David Webb; 212-421-3030; davidwebb.com

4/ Bacchus collar made from upcycled tin cans with vintage chains and Swarovski crystals; $325; Vanina; info@vanina.me; vanina.me

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5/ Pavé link choker necklace in 14k gold–plated links with Czech crystal; $590; Lele Sadoughi; 212-228-8422; lelesadoughi.com

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oops continue to be strong. They came every which way this season: gogo girl style (Jeremy Scott), extra-wide (Zimmermann), wrapped in fur (Naeem Khan), and done in various exotics to match the clothes (as in snakeskin hoops to go with the snakeskin-trimmed suede jacket at Fendi). But the circular conceit didn’t stop there. Perhaps piggybacking on fall’s polka-dot trend, designers went batty for all sorts of circular and spherical jewelry—from the orb drops, cluster earrings, and statement necklaces at Marni (pictured) and Oscar de la Renta to the gypsy-like disk styles at Altuzarra and Etro.

Chokers? Don’t give up on them yet. They ranged from the slim leather versions at Hermès to the decadent romantic styles at Anna Sui and Elie Saab. The statement maker of the season: the Saint Laurent choker featuring a splashy, oversize rose corsage.

1/ Around the World earrings with colored diamonds and sapphires; price on request; Misahara; sales@misahara.com; misahara.com

2/ Sapphire spiral ring in 10k yellow gold with ombré pink sapphires; $1,540; Shebee; sales@shebee. com; shebee.com

3/ Pearl Pendulum earrings in 10k gold; $1,400; Baker & Black; sales@bakerandblack.com; bakerandblack.com

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4/ Classico large hammered link Jet Set earrings in 18k yellow gold; $4,495; Ippolita; 877-865-5500; ippolita.com

5/ Necklace in brass and leather; $780; Marni; info_usa@marni. com; marni.com

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omespun and artisanal touches came out at Missoni, with necklaces made from semiprecious stones in various shapes, colors, and sizes, and at Loewe and Versace, boasting woven leather pendants and long drops, respectively. Models at Rosie Assoulin (pictured right), meanwhile, wore tiny clay-pot earrings by artist Jon Almeda, who, to highlight the craftsmanship element, was installed at her show creating miniature vessels on a pottery wheel. Elsewhere, designers played deft alchemists, merrily splicing materials and aesthetics—de-/reconstruction was big this season—which yielded some truly wondrous jewelry, like Prada’s hybrid seashell-gemstone strand (pictured left).

“That’s a really interesting trend, and one that seems really conscious in pointing out that there is more to the process of jewelry design and that each piece has a story,” says Nine Roses’ Spell. “We think of nontraditional, or craft, materials as a way to bring new and different energy into your life by what you adorn yourself with. This sort of embodies the idea of ‘you are what you wear.’ We’re looking forward to seeing where this trend goes.”

1/ Cardinal pendant with palm ivory and diamonds in 18k gold; $4,950; Irthly Jewelled Adornments; 949-IRTHLY-1; irthly.com

2/ Necklace in ebony, leather, and 20k yellow gold with diamonds; $6,435; Fern Freeman; 917-2171727; fernfreemanjewelry.com

3/ Marquetry earrings with morganite and diamonds; price on request; Silvia Furmanovich at Muse; 866301-MUSE; silviafurmanovich.com

4/ Dendritic quartz in 14k gold with cognac diamonds; $2,195; Judi Powers Jewelry; info@judipowers jewelry.com; judipowersjewelry.com

5/ 18k gold earrings with drusy agate, Xaxim fossil, and diamonds; $19,200; Pamela Huizenga; elizabeth@the eabproject.com; pamelahuizenga.com

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R E TA I L E R S H E A D I N G TO J C K L A S V E G A S A R E L O O K I N G F O R E D G Y D E S I G N E R S A N D L O T S O F C O L O R . B U T, A S A L W A Y S , T H E Y P L A N T O K E E P F U L L Y S T O C K E D W I T H C L A S S I C S L I K E ( S AY I T W I T H U S ! ) D I A M O N D S T U D S .

B y K r i s t i n Yo u n g Couture 18k Vanilla Gold ring with 9.34 ct. Sea Blue Aquamarine and 1.11 cts. t.w. Chocolate and Vanilla Diamonds; $24,297; Le Vian; 877-253-8426; levian.com

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Rising Sun necklace with Mexican opal-in-matrix and diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $5,060; M. Spalten; mspalten@gmail.com; mspalten.com

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Platinum engagement ring with 1.4 cts. t.w. brilliant white diamonds; $7,700 (center stone not included); Jack KelĂŠge; 877-6-KELEGE; jackkelege.com

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1, 2. Couture 18k Vanilla Gold ring with 1.62 ct. Neon Green Tourmaline and 0.45 ct. t.w. Vanilla Diamonds, $7,797; 14k Strawberry Gold ring with 4.58 cts. t.w. Peach Morganite, Blueberry Tanzanite, and Sea Blue Aquamarine, $3,120; Le Vian; 877-253-8426; levian.com 3. Platinum 0.625 ct. t.w. diamond halo-style earrings; $3,870; Stuller; 800-877-7777; stuller.com 4. Triple Starburst earrings with moonstone and diamonds in 18k white gold; $8,728; M. Spalten; mspalten@gmail.com; mspalten.com 5. 18k white gold necklace with white diamonds, blue sapphires, and triplet layer of lapis, white mother-of-pearl, and white topaz; $3,525; Doves by Doron Paloma; 888-663-6837; dovesjewelry.com 6, 8. 14k rose gold amethyst and diamond earrings, $2,350; 14k yellow gold ruby and diamond earrings, $3,350; Effy; 212-944-0020; effyjewelry.com

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7. 18k white gold engagement ring with 0.93 ct. t.w. round and baguette diamonds; $6,555 (center stone not included); Supreme Jewelry; 800-827-7464; supremejewelry.net

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160 MERICANS SEEM TO be in a sunny mood this year, and their appetite for fine jewelry appears to be on the rise.

At the same time, there is also an underlying trend—small unpredictable swings at odd times of the year—that store owners are finding harder to explain.

Ahead of LUXURY, which runs June 2–8, and JCK Las Vegas, June 5–8, both at Mandalay Bay Convention Center (a new, slightly later date pattern to account for the Shavuot holiday), JCK spoke with a handful of fine jewelry retailers across the country to take the temperature of the industry, assess what’s on buyers’ shopping lists, and divine their business forecasts for the second half of 2017.

Overall, the feedback was positive. A healthy stock market and low unemployment were listed as top reasons consumers are opening their wallets again for the many celebrations of life that fine jewelry marks. Retailers also said their businesses benefited from the conclusion of the presidential election last fall.

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While the overall picture is bright, some confirmed the aforementioned unpredictable spasms in business. In Washington state, Regina Hawkins, a sales associate at Fox’s Seattle, says that she’s heading to the JCK show with the hope of finding one-of-a-kind pieces and under-the-radar designers. “Business is growing, and the winter has seen an increase in foot traffic,” she says. “But the holiday wasn’t as great as we wished it would’ve been.”

Some trends are also catching retailers off guard. With two locations, one in Phoenix and the other in Scottsdale, Ariz., Michael’s Creative Jewelry is seeing more interest in colored gemstones and oversize fashionable pieces like cocktail rings. The latter trend, says Chris Boillot, owner of the stores along with his brother Michael Boillot, “really took me for a surprise. The minute somebody bought [an oversize piece], we’d replace it and it would sell.”

Tourmalines are currently “very hot” for the boutique, along with white gold and a few requests for yellow. The magic price points range from $1,200 to $1,700 for non-bridal items. “Personally, I’m guarded,” THE NEW POLITICS Boillot says. “December was about Van Alexander, the owner of equal with the year before. I didn’t Alexander’s Jewelers in Texarkana, get that bump that I thought Texas, saw it firsthand with an was going to be there. And then immediate uptick in business on Valentine’s Day was the best we’ve Nov. 8. “We are in the South, had in eight years.” pro-Republican, and very conserTheresa Murphy, owner of vative,” he says. “All of my cusNewstar Jewelers in Joliet, Ill., tomers either own businesses or has also experienced swings. “We are officers, and they all feel like were actually down 25 percent or this administration is suited to a so at one point earlier this year, pro-business environment.” but it seems to have picked up In Las Vegas, Alexander plans some,” she says. to stock up on traditional bridal At the show, she plans to seek pieces, diamond earrings, and out new designers at lower price pendants as well as rubies, emerpoints as well as one-of-a-kind alds, and amethysts. He will also pieces. The store does well with reorder his best-selling watch brands such as Freida Rothman, brand, Rolex. Alexander’s sells Large Ibiza cuff in silver finish with Olimpo Laser leather; $119; birthstone jewelry, and semimostly pieces in the $5,000 to Les Georgettes; 917-375-9050; lesgeorgettes.com precious stones in the always$7,000 range, followed by those popular blue and green range tagged $3,500 to $5,000. (e.g., blue topaz and peridot). At Gaston Private Jeweler, in Vero Beach, Fla., also experienced a bump thanks to Trump. “They’re all Republican, Newstar, the magic price point tends to hover between $2,000 and $3,000.

“I think the next couple of months are going to be crucial,” Murphy says. “If so they’re all happy,” says manager and buyer Lisa Servaites of her clients, noting that an average sale ranges from $2,500 to $10,000. She’s heading to the show to business stays on this upward trajectory, we’ll be a little more optimistic about restock brands like Syna and A. Link. Itemwise, she’s looking for classics such as buying for fall. If it stays the same, we’ll be more hesitant about investing in inventory.” diamond studs along with more colorful and edgy pieces.

More often than not—and this is true even in the blue states—the story is Economic indicators underscore retailers’ anecdotal feedback. As of press time, the U.S. Consumer Confidence Index had registered its highest level in 15 years, one of optimism and healthy open-to-buys. Laura McConnell, co-owner of The according to the Conference Board, which measured higher indexes in both King’s Jewelers in Walnut Creek, Calif., is heading to the show buoyed by a January and February. Globally, the jewelry industry is expected to clip along at strong holiday season and good February sales. She will be on the lookout for a brisk growth rate of 5 to 6 percent each year to reach a total of $265 billion by up-and-coming designers, and has been doing well with diamond studs, colored stones, and opals, thanks to an unexpected surge of interest in those gems. In 2020, according to a McKinsey & Co. report.

“Consumer appetite for jewelry, which was dampened by the global recession, the color category, she says blues, such as sapphires and tourmalines, and greens, now appears more voracious than ever,” the report states. Brand names will become such as emeralds, do best.

“We do a gemstone roundtable, we invite clients, and it’s one of the year’s best increasingly important in the coming years, according to the study, and online shopping will continue to climb. However, the report expects online sales of fine jewelry events,” McConnell says. “We’re positive for the first quarter. I think people are to top out at about 10 percent of the market, driven by most consumers’ need to tired of being thrifty. [They’re] thinking of the people they love, and want to show touch and see expensive items at brick-and-mortar stores. Here, experience trumps love through jewelry. We like to talk about joy a lot, whether you’re celebrating a new life, new lives together, or a life that has passed.” convenience, and that’s good news for the future prospects of small fine jewelers.

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Paraiba Obsession necklace with 54.55 ct. Paraiba tourmaline slice and 2.7 cts. t.w. white diamonds in 18k white gold; $31,900; Graziela Gems; 773-619-3999; grazielagems.com

THE BABY-BOOM G E N E R AT I O N HAS HIT A SIGNIFICANT FINANCIAL MILESTONE— O N E T H AT SHOULD HELP LINE THEIR POCKETS WITH DISPOSABLE INCOME AND HEIGHTEN OPPORTUNIT Y FOR JEWELERS

BOOMER

by Whitney Sielaff

TOW N

Ocean Breeze pendant in platinum with aquamarine, Paraiba tourmaline, opals, and diamonds, $36,000 (chain sold separately); Perola ring in platinum with baroque pearl, Paraiba, and diamonds, $24,000; Pia earrings in platinum with lavender spinel, pink sapphire, and diamonds, $15,000 (huggies sold separately); Erica Courtney; 323-938-2373; ericacourtney.com

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OME OLD FRIENDS are back at the jewelry counter. And they’re flush with disposable income.

Thanks to a core component of retirement savings regulations, baby boomers—the generation that played a key role in the growth of many of today’s jewelry stores—are once again presenting a ripe target for high-ticket sales across a broad range of jewelry categories.

In the latter half of 2016, boomers, defined as Americans born from 1946 through 1964, began turning 70½—the age at which federal tax law mandates that owners of 401(k) plans, traditional individual retirement accounts (IRAs), savings incentive match plan for employees (or SIMPLE) IRAs, and simplified employee pensions (SEPs) must take required minimum distributions (RMDs) from these tax-deferred accounts. The RMDs are calculated by dividing account totals by expected longevity as outlined by the IRS and must be taken annually—

by April 1 of the year after account owners reach 70½ and by Dec. 31 each year afterward. In many cases, these withdrawals are substantial.

The new cash stream is expected to create highly favorable conditions for jewelry sales. Boomers have a proven fondness for fine jewelry, having fueled the industry’s explosive growth from the late 1970s through the 1990s. Many have paid off life’s major expenses, such as mortgages and their children’s educations, and have socked away plenty of retirement savings.

“People have been saying that you have to forget about the boomers,” says Tonia Ulsh, co-owner, president, and chief operating officer of Mountz Jewelers, which operates three stores in the Harrisburg, Pa., area. “But they’ve always loved jewelry.

This is going to be a great opportunity.”

“I’ve just had two of my customers come in because they had the first distributions from their 401(k)s coming and weren’t quite sure what they were going to do with that money,” says Rob Panowicz, co-owner of Panowicz Jewelers in Olympia, Wash. “They both bought substantial pieces they had wanted for years. When they got these distributions, it was time.”

Jewelers report that boomer demand is being further buoyed by the fact that, for the first time in a decade, both the White House and Congress are controlled by Republicans, a development that’s expected to favor the interests of business owners and wealthier consumers.

“There’s a much more positive outlook this year than a year ago,” says Brent Meade, owner and president of Gruno’s Diamonds, which operates one store in Rockford, Ill., and a new location in Madison, Wis. “There’s anticipation for tax and regulation relief. After a couple very conservative years, these are great things and are really going to propel our industry.”

Because boomers have satisfied many of their consumption impulses over the years, their shopping trips to the jewelry store are now more focused and often result in bigger price-point purchases yielding better margins.

“I ran a report of our top customers by how much they spend, and 70 percent of them are baby boomers,” says Elizabeth Campbell, co-owner of McCaskill & Co. in Destin, Fla. “Yes, they buy fewer items now. They’re not the silver customer. But they buy substantial pieces—things that will last.”

“I have a customer in his 70s who just bought a Bentley, and now he’s looking at a gold Rolex for himself.”

BRUNO BARBAZAN / TRUNK ARCHIVE

CASHING IN Having experienced the bull markets of the 1980s and ’90s, boomers developed a penchant for investing in stocks. With the surge in equities markets following the 2016 presidential election, many own retirement accounts brimming with fattened mutual fund balances. Now that money needs to be spent.

—Bill Campbell, McCaskill & Co.

FINER THINGS With their enhanced spending power, boomers regularly spend much more per item than do millennials and other younger and less affluent generational groups.

“We carry fashion pieces in the $100 to $1,000 range for the younger set,” says Jim Sunderland, co-owner of James & Sons Fine Jewelers, which operates three stores in the Chicago area.

“But for the baby boomers, we’re more in the region of $2,500 and up, with a lot of jewelry into the five-figure range.”

Sunderland says his boomer customers gravitate toward diamond fashion jewelry (for example, Hearts On Fire’s halo-set white gold Fulfillment pendant). Diamond upgrades are another sure bet, both for studs and engagement rings. “Ten

Bamboo bib necklace in silver and 18k gold, $4,900; Legends Cobra drop earrings in silver with imperial topaz and diamonds, $9,900; Bamboo curved cuff in silver, $1,295; John Hardy; 888-8383022; johnhardy.com

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thousand to $15,000 is the sweet spot for those sales,” he says.

Upgrading boomers frequently entails modernizing style choices. “In the ’80s, a lot of women were buying yellow gold with diamonds of a carat or less,” says Mountz Jewelers’ Ulsh.

“Today, they’re wearing white gold or platinum. Any styles they loved in yellow—diamond stud earrings, for example—can be updated in white.”

This penchant for updating jewelry wardrobes is reflected in growing demand for expensive designer pieces.

“High jewelry fashion, just like clothing, changes every season,” Ulsh says. “They don’t have to stop wearing an older piece to get a new one. Progressive designers like Roberto Coin and John Hardy have a story behind them and aren’t mass-produced products. The boomers are looking for individuality in that level of quality.”

There’s also an associated desire for variety.

“Unlike the millennials, who feel that they already have a ring and don’t need another, boomers will buy the same things in different colors. They change out their jewelry depending what they’re wearing that day,” Ulsh adds. “They aren’t hesitant to buy multiples in the same type of jewelry for different looks.”

This includes stacking bangle bracelets and longer necklaces paired with shorter ones. “They want to wear what they already have with today’s modern look,” Ulsh says.

At McCaskill & Co., this desire drives demand for collections such as Alex Sepkus, David Yurman, bigger colored stone pieces from Jean-Francois Albert, and, especially, Erica Courtney. “They love her uniqueness, that all of her pieces are one of a kind,” says Campbell, whose store carries many name designers.

“Our top-spending customers spend an average of $30,000, focusing on pieces like these that are gorgeous and substantial.”

COLLECTOR MENTALITY Custom jewelry, with its ability to express individuality through color, is on the best-sellers list too.

“They don’t want just more stuff,” says Carole Ridding, co-owner of Silverhorn, which operates a design gallery and studio in Santa Barbara, Calif., as well as a boutique in the city’s Four Seasons Biltmore hotel. “At this age, they’ve got lots of things. They’re very discriminating. Some have a collector mentality, and they like color for its rarity and romance. They like to touch and feel and hear the history of how we procured it and see that we’re making things.”

A recent example was a ring featuring a large opal. “A very petite woman bought it for herself,” Ridding says. “She had never bought jewelry like that before, but she was excited about it. It added a new direction.”

Wearability also plays a role. “They don’t want everything locked away in the safety box,” Ridding adds. “It can be interesting, but they want something they can wear when they go to lunch or play bridge in the afternoon.

They want to enjoy their pieces.”

And for male boomers, luxury watches are more important than ever.

“Our big Rolex customer is older,” says Bill Campbell, who owns McCaskill & Co. with his wife, Elizabeth. “I have a customer in his 70s who just bought a Bentley, and now he’s looking at a gold Rolex for himself. He’s been wanting these things for years, and now he can afford it. This group worked hard, and they deserve it.”

GENERATION WE We’ve all been told that baby boomers have graduated from the accumulative stage of consumption to the experiential. But jewelers are reporting a hybrid offspring of those tendencies that’s yielding consistent sales.

“The boomers have fulfilled

the basics,” says Rob Panowicz of Panowicz Jewelers. “As the next step, we try to incorporate the family aspect, to help our customers remember to be thinking about the future, what they can do that’s special for their kids or grandkids.”

Jewelers are successfully employing a host of methods to personalize such “heritage” jewelry: • Remounting emotionally significant pieces as an immediate gift for bonding with a daughter or granddaughter

• Engraving, whether on the piece itself or perhaps on a charm with a message such as Love, Mom in the customer’s handwriting • Custom-designing jewelry with significant stones representing each of a woman’s children. She can enjoy wearing the piece now

while planning to have it broken up later, with each child receiving his or her gem.

• Promoting luxury watches, which have traditionally been heritage pieces. Jewelers continue doing well with such sales to those wishing to bridge the generations.

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R E TA I L , DISRUPTED

HE OLD MA XIM “There is nothing permanent except change” could have been written to describe the modern American retail landscape.

The Great Recession of 2008 signaled the end of one of the nation’s most prosperous periods in history and forced the closing of thousands of independent retail stores—among them hundreds of family-owned fine jewelry businesses. Those left standing have been challenged by, arguably, more industry-shifting changes in the past decade than their counterparts faced in the half-century leading up to it.

However, it’s the relatively recent rise of online shopping that has most significantly altered (and challenged) traditional retail.

DIGITAL DOWNSIZING The new, digitally driven environment has diminished more than a few retail titans; put the hurt on shopping mall developers, who are now struggling to reinvent their gargantuan retail spaces in ways that are more about experiences than retail; and defied independent retailers to get creative in playing up smallness as a strength.

“Online shopping has changed literally everything,” says Jay Luchs, a well-known retail real estate broker based in Los Angeles.

The Pew Research Center reported in December that 79 percent of Americans now shop online at least once a month—through desktops, laptops, or mobile devices.

That’s up from 22 percent in 2000. The same report notes

OUR TWO-PART that social media selling is on the rise; 15 percent of those shoppers said they bought something in the last SERIES EXPLORES virtual month after clicking on a social link.

Our growing comfort with buying online has resulted in EVER-CHANGING a significant contraction of brick-and-mortar retail stores— CONSUMER and a global slowdown in planned retail construction.

Companies that put a store in every mall in the pre-internet HABITS—AND days—such as Macy’s, Sears, and J.C. Penney—have been HOW JEWELERS struggling to scale back their brick-and-mortar footprints.

In March, Urban Outfitters CEO Richard Hayne reported MUST REACT the chain was putting the brakes on new store development, and added that he expects the “downsizing” trend to continue IN ORDER TO for most major retailers. He told investors that the effect of brands committing too much square footage to retail “created THRIVE IN THE a bubble…and like housing, that bubble has now burst.”

NEXT DECADE… THE SHOWROOMING EFFECT AND BEYOND The easy access of online shopping has also changed the way B y E m i l i Ve s i l i n d

consumers shop. The internet “brings customers in and also pushes people away,” says Susan Eisen, owner of Susan Eisen Fine Jewelry & Watches in El Paso, Texas. “People do a lot of pre-shopping on a website, then come in with a good idea of what they want.”

The flip side, Eisen adds, is that other people will saunter into a well-respected jewelry store to “use your time and your expertise to learn about something,” then buy the same item online for less.

Showrooming, the practice of pricing products you see in a store using a mobile device, has changed the selling equation profoundly, too. Discounts (even very deep discounts) on jewelry and other luxury items have become a daily expectation for many shoppers.

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RENTERS’ ASSURANCE Another manifestation of the deep-discount expectation is the proliferation of the secondhand market for fine jewelry and watches.

Websites such as The RealReal (which sells designer jewelry and watches along with apparel) and Hodinkee (which sells vintage men’s watches) are becoming trusted shopping resources, their founders widely hailed as retail mavericks. The RealReal has four “watch valuation” offices in major cities to attract consumers looking to consign timepieces on the site; founder and CEO Julie Wainwright told the San Francisco Chronicle in 2016 that jewelry and watches were the fastest-growing category for her business.

The phenomenon of rented luxury can also be traced to the nation’s preoccupation with easy access to entertainment.

A decade ago, the thought of paying a monthly service fee to stream TV or music—instead of owning those media outright—seemed like a nonstarter. Today, with Spotify, Netflix, Hulu, Amazon Prime, and similar services, renting entertainment is the norm.

“People come here and look around, then buy direct from the designer online.”

— Andrea Riso, Talisman Collection

And now the rental rush has hit the luxury goods sector.

The website Eleven James lets members borrow luxury timepieces costing $5,000 and often much more for two to three months at a time. Founder and CEO Randy Brandoff told JCK in January that after hunting for a service like his in vain, “I set out to build one.” Eleven James, which debuted in 2013 and boasts a membership “in the low thousands,” raised $30 million in capital before it debuted.

THE BRICK-AND-MORTAR OUTLOOK With so many low-priced options at consumers’ fingertips, will the traditional, full-priced retailer survive in the long term? The answer is yes—but only if other aspects of the brand experience sweeten the value proposition for consumers.

“Brick-and-mortar retail’s not dying,” Luchs says. “But it is changing. I’m seeing more clients looking to do experimental things like combining food with fashion in the same space. And the more innovative brands—they’re not blowing money on stores right away. They’re doing it smart and starting online.”

Three years ago, Luchs helped jewelry designer Irene Neuwirth find the space for her sole namesake boutique and adjacent office on trendy Melrose Place in Los Angeles. He says Neuwirth’s trajectory—which began with an established wholesale presence that helped introduce her to the global fashion flock—represents a very modern mode of retailing.

“Ten years ago, Irene would have needed to have 10 stores around the country to make brick-and-mortar retail worthwhile,” Luchs says. “But she’s doing it right for what’s happening now. She only needs that one store and one office right there on that really great, hot street. It’s a different thing entirely.”

— Part two of this feature will appear in JCK’s June issue. —

PIDJOE/GETTY; (PREVIOUS PAGE) EVA-KATALIN/GETTY

“People are absolutely showrooming when they come into my store,” says Andrea Riso, owner of Talisman Collection in El Dorado Hills, Calif. “They come here and look around, then buy direct from the designer online. Then they buy instore what everyone buys: a halo engagement ring.”

It’s no surprise, then, that while big retailers are shuttering stores at a furious clip, off-price retailers including Nordstrom Rack, Saks Off Fifth, and T.J. Maxx are seeing steady gains. In many ways, the off-price store environment parallels the experience of shopping on social media networks—which is poised to be the next big frontier in retailing. The inventory changes constantly, discounts vary wildly, and the opportunity to score big on a valuable item priced well below retail beckons.

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FA IR AMERIC A

THOUGHTS, TIPS, AND TRICKS TO FIND S U C C E S S AT A RT S H OW S A N D F E S T I VA L S

B y D a n i e l P. S m i t h

ee Angelo Marraccini runs in two separate worlds.

Since 1999, Marraccini has owned Angelo, a contemporary jewelry gallery in Charlottesville, Va. During that same 18-year period, Marraccini has also participated in five to six art fairs each year, the continuation of an endeavor he first began in the 1970s.

For Marraccini, trading his brick-and-mortar existence for an art show booth has provided him a personal touch point with the marketplace, spurred the creation of designs, and generated new business.

“I can sell a lot of pieces at a fair that would take me a long time to sell in Charlottesville,” says Marraccini, whose original creations range in price from $300 to $7,000.

As summer and fall bring an array of festivals and fairs to communities across the United States, jewelers—particularly those claiming their own designs—might consider following Marraccini’s lead. With the swelling interest in handmade, artisanal goods, such events present a worthwhile branding opportunity and a compelling opportunity to showcase work to new audiences.

But beware: Participating in fairs—from neighborhood art festivals to prestigious American Craft Council shows—can be a taxing exercise, even in the best of times.

“When they’re good, they’re hard,” Marraccini says. “And when they’re not good, they’re even harder.”

Festival Essentials

If you’re heading to a festival to showcase your jewelry, don’t forget these five must-haves:

1 2

COMMUNITY SERVICE Like Marraccini, Rebecca Myers participates in art fairs while also running her own brick-and-mortar retail store, Rebecca Myers Collection, in Baltimore.

“The standard way of doing business, of waiting for people to walk in your door, doesn’t seem to be a model that works very well anymore,” Myers says.

At these external events, the jeweler often finds an audience interested in the designer work ethic and appreciative of an artful aesthetic. “There’s a large portion of the jewelry market out there not serviced by the garden-variety jeweler,” says Myers, who pegs her average sale at about $1,100.

Over the years, Myers has also found something else at art festivals: an opportunity to expand her wholesale presence.

“If you have a distinct line, then participating in these fairs is a way to build your line or brand. You can get in front of influential people and land a whole new demographic in a completely different market,” says Myers, whose work is currently available in 10 boutiques and galleries across the country.

Jewelry designer Donna D’Aquino, who operates a gallery and teaching studio in Bethel, Maine, has been participating in shows for more than 15 years and says, in her experience, “95 percent of women at a fair stop and look at a jewelry booth.

“It doesn’t necessarily mean sales are happening,” D’Aquino cautions, “but they are stopping and looking.”

Getting a look, however, is half the battle, and one never knows who might walk into the booth. While D’Aquino has had some fair attendees scoff at the prices of her jewelry, she’s also had others “drop a king’s ransom.”

3 4

From top: The Main St. Fort Worth Arts Festival, aka Main St.; the Saint Louis Art Fair, which runs Sept. 8–10; retailer and art-fair circuit regular Lee Angelo Marraccini

5

Display cases: Clear cases ensure a professional presentation.

Cases should always be locked and open only in the direction of the artist.

Mobile point of sale: This not only enables credit card purchases but also limits the risk of carrying stacks of cash.

Personal goods: From water and food to additional clothing, comfortable shoes, and a tall folding chair, be prepared for long days and—specifically at outdoor events—Mother Nature’s wrath.

Business-branding items: Banner-size signage bearing vivid images of jewelry and your business name will brand your booth. Business cards, postcards, packaging, boxes, and bags further elevate the brand story.

Custom order forms: In the spirit of capturing every potential sale, designers can use these forms to sketch a custom product and record order details like style number and customer information.

(FROM TOP) COURTESY OF DOWNTOWN FORT WORTH INC.; PROPHOTO STL; COURTESY OF LEE ANGELO MARRACCINI

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Destination: Style Salon LUX 111

www.sophiabydesign.com 215.629.0260

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Here’s a smattering of the most prominent festivals around the country: American Craft Council Shows in Atlanta, Baltimore, San Francisco, and St. Paul, Minn.

612-206-3100 craftcouncil.org St. James Court Art Show Louisville, Ky. 502-635-1842 stjamescourtartshow.com

“When they’re good, they’re hard. And when they’re not good, they’re even harder.”

—Retailer Lee Angelo Marraccini

Saint Louis Art Fair St. Louis 314-863-0278 saintlouisartfair.com

DO YOUR HOMEWORK. Before participating in any show, Myers and D’Aquino both urge research. Visit a show, talk with other artists, observe a jewelry booth in action, and assess your jewelry’s fit with the show’s demographic. For instance, does the event attract a more trendsetting, avant-garde crowd? Or does it seem to appeal to more traditional tastes? “The venue down the street might cost $100 but not be worth your time, while another might cost $2,000 and require more travel, but be a wonderful opportunity,” D’Aquino says.

OFFER A DIVERSE ASSORTMENT. Shows bring a wide range of

Ann Arbor Street Art Fair Ann Arbor, Mich.

734-994-5260 artfair.org

customers, particularly on the financial front. D’Aquino suggests presenting a variety of price points and putting the most affordable pieces in a prominent place for all to see.

HAVE A “SALES STAR” PRESENT. While the retail store is, most often,

Main St. Fort Worth Arts Festival Fort Worth, Texas 817-336-2787 mainstreetartsfest.org

a destination business where people come in for a purpose, shows require a different kind of energized salesmanship. “Shows are about engaging with people,” Marraccini says. “If you can’t do that yourself, then bring someone with you who can.”

GATHER INFORMATION. Over the years, Marraccini has scored

Art in the Pearl Portland, Ore. 503-512-9071 artinthepearl.com

Central Pennsylvania Festival of the Arts State College, Pa. 814-237-3682 arts-festival.com

Retailers familiar with the fair and festival circuit recommend jewelers considering participation heed some key advice:

START SMALL AND LOCAL. Shows can be expensive, and it’s not uncommon to lose money, Marraccini says. For festival novices, he recommends starting out at “a lower level” and learning which items resonate. “To keep expenses down, you might also pick shows you can easily drive to,” he says.

Cherry Creek Arts Festival Denver 303-355-2787 cherrycreekartsfestival.org

ArtFest Fort Myers Fort Myers, Fla. 239-768-3602 artfestfortmyers.com

TIPS AND TRICKS

numerous sales from festival attendees well after a show. That’s why he likes to grab contact information for anyone showing special interest in his designs. “Then, do a follow-up,” he says.

BE AWARE. Security remains a legitimate concern for show

From top: Designer Beth Solomon’s booth at Art in the Pearl, which runs every Labor Day weekend; Art in the Pearl exhibitor Pam Caidin’s booth; pieces from Baltimore-based designer (and frequent fair participant) Rebecca Myers

participants, and D’Aquino knows several artists who have been robbed. “There’s risk here,” she says bluntly. Being ever mindful of security, participants should have their products insured, have another set of eyes in the booth attuned to who’s around, and avoid being alone with inventory.

STAY POSITIVE. Lulls and lackluster sales will happen. “Don’t get discouraged, and keep a positive head if things don’t go well,” Myers says. “Another opportunity might be steps away.”

COURTESY ART IN THE PEARL (2); REBECCA MYERS

THE ART SHOW CIRCUIT

D’Aquino says the best part of being at art fairs is the creative energy swirling about. “There’s nothing like getting to know a community of artists,” she says.

“It’s incredibly inspiring.”

Make no mistake, though. Participating in fairs is an investment of time, money, and energy—and with no guarantee of return on investment.

Shows come in all shapes and sizes. Some are neighborhood events that might produce only modest revenue but deliver a rich opportunity for local advertising and branding, especially for a brick-and-mortar jewelry store. Viewed through that lens, D’Aquino says, “that could be the best $100 or $200 you’ve ever spent.”

On the other end of the spectrum sit juried shows, which maintain strict quality standards.

“You need to make something amazing to get into these shows, and it needs to be work branded to you, not just inventory from your store,” Myers says.

Though there are certainly different levels of involvement, virtually any show will require preparation, setup, hours of smiling, and teardown.

“It’s amazing how much energy they require,” D’Aquino admits.

PREMIER AT-SHOW DELIVERY DESTINATION

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REGISTER TO ATTEND OR EXHIBIT:

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TOP 5 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT JIS EXCHANGE 1. JIS EXCHANGE IS THE #1 AT-SHOW DELIVERY EVENT JIS Exchange is your premier source for at-show delivery during JCK’s Las Vegas Jewelry Week. Only a show like this can give you the inventory you need to immediately stock your showcases with everything your customer’s are clamoring for. With an impressive

array of designs and prices, there are sure to be product offerings for everyone. Whether you’re looking for high-quality diamond jewlery, fashion jewelry, gold, or something else, you’ll find it all and much more at JIS Exchange.

2. SHOW FLOOR ALMOST SOLD OUT! With two full floors of the best hand-selected immediate delivery exhibitors from JIS Miami, JCK Las Vegas, and many new brands, JIS Exchange is filled with quality vendors. At the Show, you’ll find Americas Gold, Comex, Gold-N-Diamonds Inc, Jewelry Land, Ken Craft, SYK, Zack’s Fine Jewelry, and many more. See who else is exhibiting and start planning your Las Vegas agenda by visiting

jisshow.com/exchange. If you’re using the JCK Show Guide or Pocket Planner to build your agenda, look for the JIS Exchange exhibitor listing section.

3. ONE BADGE, TWO SHOWS…AND LUNCH! A JIS Exchange attendee badge doesn’t just provide access to JIS Exchange, but it is your entry pass onto the JCK Las Vegas Show Floor. JCK Las Vegas badges work the same and are accepted for entry into JIS Exchange. So you only need one badge from either

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MAY 2017

THE ESSENTIAL JEWELRY GUIDE

the vault

MATERIAL SUCCESS The unique object, which is priced

THE A-TEAM More than 20 artisans—

upon request, features engraved and enameled silver; white, pink, and yellow gold; mystery-set rubies; diamonds; blue, pink, yellow, and orange sapphires; white opal; aluminum; ebony; and a 58.18 ct. faceted aquamarine, which forms the fairy’s head.

including jewelers, lapidaries, cabinetmakers, enamelers, and automaton maker François Junod—were involved in the Automate Fée Ondine’s creation.

In a film about its making, one testifies to the all-encompassing nature of the project: “You don’t notice the days pass, or the months, or even the years.”

THE ART OF MOTION

ON THE MOVE The manual-winding mechanical

THE 19TH CENTURY was the golden age of automata—playful mechanisms that feature a concert of moving parts—but don’t tell that to Van Cleef & Arpels. In January, the jewelry- and watchmaker introduced its first extraordinary object, the Automate Fée Ondine. Conceived more than eight years ago, the mechanical wonder depicts a bejeweled fairy that comes to life for about 50 seconds in a remarkable display of animation. “Watchmaking today is about issues like distribution and currencies,” says president and CEO Nicolas Bos. “But at the end of the day, the reason customers are fascinated by the pieces we offer is because of this type of fairy-tale experience.” —VICTORIA GOMELSKY JCKONLINE.COM

automaton movement combines a retrograde hour display and animation on demand to create a whimsical scene including fine details such as an enameled water lily leaf that appears to ripple with the breeze. And it tells time too!

THE VAULT

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BRIDAL

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PERIOD PIECES Driven by a desire to “create something beautiful but also affordable,” designer Michelle Fantaci enters the bridal segment this spring with a fetching new collection of engagement rings and wedding bands that mostly retail for less than $5,000. “It feels like a natural evolution,” says the New York City–based jeweler. “My main collections were moving in the direction of more romantic but not flowery, and my aesthetic, I think, lends itself to bridal.” Fantaci’s classic-with-a-twist line features ethically sourced rose- and step-cut diamonds in 18k green and white gold settings laced with Art Deco and Victorian details plucked from her Nomad and Sensu collections. Just call it “Bridal Revisited.” (Michelle Fantaci at Muse; 866-301-6873; michellefantaci.com) —VICTORIA GOMELSKY

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DEEP MEANING Avigdor founder Ezra Solomon Anniversaire ring in 18k green gold with 1.7 ct. trillion diamond; $9,500

Sensu ring in 18k gold with palladium and 0.2 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,850

Nomad ring in 18k green gold with 0.86 ct. diamond and cognac kites; $4,870

Anniversaire pavé band in 18k green gold with 0.25 ct. t.w. diamonds; $2,200

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Sensu ring in 18k green gold with 0.54 ct. fan-shape diamond; $3,276

Nomad band in reclaimed gold with 0.47 ct. t.w. hexagonal diamonds; $2,800

is convinced the halo engagement ring has had its day. “My research indicates that a wider-spread ring with a very light look is the way to go,” says the JCK Rising Star, whose 4-year-old line is composed of open-worked styles that he calls “rings with meaning.” Each one is named and described using the language of Kabbalah. —VG

Tanya ring in 14k white gold with 0.05 ct. t.w. pavé diamonds; $1,056 (center stone not included); Avigdor; 973-898-4770; avigdorjewelry.com

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TREND GAME

A DIFFERENT ANGLE A bevy of hot bridal jewelry collections are tipping princess-cut diamonds on their sides to feature rhombus-shape center stones in their latest engagement ring designs.

Recent styles from Karl Lagerfeld Bridal Jewelry, Scott Kay Jewelry, and Natalie K for Forevermark include the look, which has been dubbed “compass-set.” Going full tilt never looked so fierce. —EMILI VESILIND

18k rose gold ring with 0.59 ct. t.w. diamonds; $3,100 (center stone not included); Scott Kay Jewelry; info@scottkay.com; scottkay.com

EASTERN PARADE Bold jewelry styles inspired by the curvaceous lines of traditional Indian and Middle Eastern design are always in demand. But in its latest collection, Simon G. has created a series of diamond-studded baubles that fuse classic Eastern aesthetics with an airiness of design that feels decidedly modern. —EV

DEF TO HONOR DAVID OYELOWO IN VEGAS! SEE jckonline.com/topics/diamonds FOR THAT AND MORE.

18k white gold ring with 0.26 ct. t.w. round diamonds; price on request (center stone not included); Natalie K for Forevermark; info@nataliek.com; nataliek.com

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MAY 2017

THE GLOBAL GUIDE TO MARKETS

Show biz In search of jewels that you won’t find at the big box next door?

Look no further than the 50-plus exhibitors at the Design Center at JCK Las Vegas, June 5–8 at Mandalay Bay.

Duet ring with 6.32 ct. pear-shape sapphire, 0.62 ct. t.w. diamonds, and 0.61 ct. t.w. sapphires in 18k white gold with black rhodium; $44,000; Omi Privé; 877-6644367; omiprive.com

1/ Earrings in 18k yellow gold with black diamonds; price on request; Dorian & Rose; 213-622-8480; dorianandrose.net

N

O NEED TO pack your evening dresses and fancy suits for this year’s LUXURY show. The organizers want you to think of the seven-day show, which opens at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center in Las Vegas on Friday, June 2 (three days later than usual to account for the Jewish holiday Shavuot), as a luxurious, business-oriented, and distinctly daytime affair.

“We heard there were so many distractions in Vegas at night and that evening events weren’t as important,” says Sarin Bachmann, industry vice president for LUXURY & Swiss Watch events at Reed Jewelry Group. “We’ll do some happy hours after the show closes and Late Night Lounges, and we’ll free up that evening dinner time frame for folks to do what they want.”

HAPPY DAYS

LUXURY opens June 2 for a weeklong run in Las Vegas

BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY On Friday and Saturday, happy hour will kick off at 6 p.m. at Libertine Social, while the Late Night Lounge will go from 10 to midnight at Eye Candy (both are located in Mandalay Bay).

During the day, however, is when you’ll find the most action. With more than 230 high-end exhibitors—including newcomers Shay and Judith Ripka and returning brands such as Omi Privé, Erica Courtney, Michael M, and Nanis— the show is poised to deliver on the promise conveyed in its name.

Take Niveet Nagpal’s word for it. The president and head designer of Omi Privé is bringing sizable rubies and Lightning Ridge opals to LUXURY. “We’re focusing on what’s beautiful and what’s rare,” he says.

JCKONLINE.COM

2/ Simply Organic bracelet in 18k yellow gold and sterling silver with diamond slices; $10,800; Neeta Gupta; info@neetagupta.ca; neetagupta.ca 3/ Ring in oxidized and gold-plated silver; $199; Eva Stone; 48-58-348-0358; evastone.eu 4/ A Tree Grows earrings in 14k gold and 5 cts. t.w. natural green tourmaline crystal slices; $1,395; Judi Powers Jewelry; info@judipowersjewelry. com; judipowersjewelry.com 5/ Desert Flowers band and ring in 18k yellow gold with 0.24 ct. t.w. diamonds each; $2,700–$2,800 (sold separately); Audrius Krulis; info@audriuskrulis.com; audriuskrulis.com

SHOW BIZ

BEST IN SHOW

Signature Floral Starburst earrings with 17 cts. t.w. pink tourmalines and 3.5 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k rose gold; $15,000; Sutra; 713-984-4987; sutrajewels.com

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R I N G P R O D U C E R S I N C E 19 5 2 . . .

EASTERN EXPOSURE

Showgoers were in the pink at the March Hong Kong International Jewellery Show

9 2 1 6 B o: N h t o Bo

A

BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

FTER A DECIDEDLY tough year, the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) got a bit of good news: Numbers at the Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show and Hong Kong International Jewellery Show, which ran Feb. 28– March 4 and March 2–6, respectively, were up. Combined, the fairs drew some 4,480 exhibitors and more than 85,000 buyers from 144 countries and regions—a 6 percent bump from 2016.

The volatile gold price, global economic uncertainty, and the U.S. presidential election were “burdens” in 2016, admitted Kent Wong, chairman of the HKTDC advisory committee, at an overseas-journalist breakfast.

But “disposable income will continue to increase,” said the Chow Tai Fook managing director. “Donald Trump wants to rejuvenate the U.S. market.”

Meanwhile, Lawrence Ma, chairman of the show’s organizing committee,

was pleased with an influx of new exhibitors from locales including Nigeria and the British Virgin Islands and the visible increase in foot traffic. In total, more than 33,000 buyers attended the Diamond, Gem & Pearl show, held at the airport-adjacent AsiaWorld-Expo, and about 52,000 visited the jewelry show at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre in Wan Chai.

On the floor, we saw an abundance of rubies—many, of course, Mozambican, but also Burmese and Thai.

And pink, not surprisingly, continued to be a top seller—as JCK and many others forecast for 2017. At Lorenzo Jewelry, among a set of cases boasting a rainbow’s worth of colored stones, morganite emerged as a clear favorite.

“Our coral and pink tourmaline collections did really well,” said Divyanshu Navlakha of Houston-based Sutra (the brand also has a secondary office in Hong Kong). “We noticed a trend of many clients seeking statement coral earrings, and moved several gemmy pink tourmaline pieces.”

And it wasn’t just pink stones: Pink gold also proved quite popular.

Bangkok’s Artinian Fine Jewellery “did quite well” with its boutique brand, Sartoro, said marketing manager Paris Kouyoumdjian. “Clients found the rose gold grouping of collection pieces quite eye-catching and unique, loving the simplicity, wearability, and accessibility,” he said of the unfussy but luxe diamond jewels. “They wanted uncomplicated designs for their everyday sellable inventory.”

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Visit Us at Booth #B63049 at the Essentials & Tech Pavilion

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195

the industry authority

MAY 2017

EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES & TECHNOLOGY

TOOL TIME

PINTEREST PHOTOS: (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP L.) ARYA ESHA, M. SPALTEN, TRÉSOR COLLECTION RAINBOW MOONSTONE, AMETHYST, AND BLUE TOPAZ BANGLES, EFFY GEMMA 14K ROSE GOLD AMETHYST AND DIAMOND PENDANT; MODEL: PRYKHODOV/GETTY

SEECOMMERCE

A mini-guide to selling your jewels on the web’s three hottest social platforms

T

BY EMILI VESILIND

HE RULES OF retailing on social media are finite, says Crystal Vilkaitis, owner and CEO of Crystal Media, which advises companies (including jewelry brands) on social selling. When marketers follow them—and use the right tools—“they see great results.”

But the rules on the most retail-friendly platforms—notably Facebook, Instagram, and Pinterest— change frequently, as developers tinker with tools and refine algorithms.

For time-pressed retailers, this can make the prospect of social selling particularly daunting. We asked Vilkaitis to break down the basics of making your social feeds shoppable.

The best part? The setup is all free.

FACEBOOK Facebook may not be the slickest platform, but it’s still the biggest.

According to a 2016 poll by the Pew Research Center, more than 75

percent of adult Internet users use it.

Selling products on Facebook means advertising on Facebook, says Vilkaitis, because the network’s algorithms are set up to make paid advertising the only way to truly target an audience.

Fortunately, “the targeting capabilities on Facebook are really fantastic,” she says. As a marketer, you can get very granular in your reach on the network. “For example, if you sell Alex and Ani, you can target all the people that like that brand on the platform.”

Head to facebook.com/ads, click on Create an Ad, then follow the prompts to build your first product ad.

INSTAGRAM Instagram has a smaller audience, but its pretty, pared-down format makes it innately shoppable. According to a 2016 Hootsuite study, top brands on Instagram were seeing a per-follower engagement rate of 4.21 percent— 58 times higher than on Facebook.

Retailing on Instagram means paying for posts that include a Shop Now button; when clicked, it sends

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users to an e-commerce product page where they can finish their purchase.

Note: You can create shoppable posts only if you have a Business account on Instagram. If your feed isn’t Business, go to your profile settings (the gear icon) and hit Switch to Business Profile. Start posting sponsored, linked content by hitting Promote on any product post via your mobile app.

PINTEREST In 2016, Pinterest reported that 71 percent of its users were women—and that those users spent 50 percent more time browsing Pinterest than other platforms. “Roughly 25 percent of e-commerce originating from social sites comes from Pinterest,” Vilkaitis says.

The supervisual platform lets companies create Promoted Pins, which allow for deep caption information and link directly to e-comm product pages.

You’ll need to create a business profile on ads.pinterest.com to do this. Then, simply click through the instructions for building an ad. Best of luck, social sellers!

TOOL TIME

THE GOODS

WHO, WHAT, WEARABLE

KATE SPADE BANGLE TRACKER What we liked: The bangle looks and feels like a bracelet we’d buy even if it weren’t a wearable—you’re not sacrificing an iota of style.

Featuring elegant scalloped detailing, the bracelet comes in gold, rose gold, and silver tones, with a choice of white mother-ofpearl or pale pink stone.

What we didn’t like: The device’s tracking is reliable, and the phone app is colorful and easy to access and comprehend. The only thing missing is a vibration option—typically less noticeable than light—for phone and text notifications.

Best feature: No charging required; there’s a changeable coin cell battery in the bangle. And etched inside the bracelet is a lovely mantra: seize the day. ($128; katespade.com)

Our first glimpse of Kate Spade New York’s first-ever collection of wearables—which included rubber wrist trackers outfitted with tiny kitty-cat ears—was love at first sight.

This chic Bangle Tracker, the most jewelry-like piece in the bunch, works in tandem with the Kate Spade New York Connected mobile app. The device—which is iPhoneand Android-compatible—tracks a user’s steps and sleep. It can also be programmed to notify wearers (via a subtle light that shines from under the stone face) when phone calls and texts come in. —EV

SUPPLY IN DEMAND

ALEXANDRE SIDOROV STONE-SETTERS PACKAGE

JCK Booth # B33191 50 Mendell St. # 7

Alexandre Sidorov, one of the world’s finest diamond setters, designed this package after decades of mastering (and teaching) stone-setting techniques.

Stuller tools product manager Shawn Albert calls the all-inclusive set “everything you need to set stones.”

And the Alexandre Ring Fixture, which mounts directly to a GRS Microblock, features a pair of bell-shape jaw attachments that let jewelers “hold the ring across the top, giving clearance underneath,” Albert adds.

“The options in this set allow you to work on any ring—a jeweler wouldn’t be limited by the collet size.” ($649; stuller.com) —EV

San Francisco, Ca 94124 415-970-0188 www.ychinc.com

DKNY ’S NEW SMARTWATCHES! SEE jckonline.com/topics/technology FOR THAT AND MORE.

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PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

Herco

833 Market St., 10th Floor San Francisco, CA 94103 Tel: 415-543-1580, 1-800-864-0767 Fax: 415-398-3699 Email: info@herco.com Website: herco.com

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Martin Flyer

70 W. 36thSt. New York, NY 10018 Tel: 800-223-0330 Fax: 212-768-0124 Email: sales@martinflyer.com Website: martinflyer.com

Herco offers a wide variety of 14k and 18k white, yellow, and pink gold jewelry. We also carry many items in platinum, silver, palladium, and stainless steel.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Quality You Expect, The Personal Service You Deserve.â&#x20AC;? For more than 70 years, this has remained a cornerstone of our focus, through three generations of outstanding service, craftsmanship, and delivery of heirloom quality jewelry at competitive prices.

ArtCarved

Goldstein Diamonds

Since 1850, ArtCarved has handcrafted high-quality, elegant, and timeless engagement rings and wedding bands for your customers to wear every day and forever.

These magnificent, rare vintage chandelier earrings feature 16.62 cts. t.w. oval and round brilliant fancy yellow, fancy pink, and white diamonds. Set in 18K gold, 32.25 grams. MSRP: $56,750

154 W. 14th St. New York, NY 10011 Tel: 800-221-3232 Fax: 800-332-9344 Email: artcarvedsales@fgoldman.com Website: artcarvedbridal.com

6900 E. Camelback Road, Suite 902 Scottsdale, AZ 85251 Tel: 800-237-0364 Email: info@goldsteindiamonds.com Website: goldsteindiamonds.com

Midas Chain

50 McDermott Pl. Bergenfield, NJ 07621 Tel: 877-643-2765 Fax: 201-244-1150 Email: sales@midaschain.com Website: midaschain.com The all-new 14k yellow gold Moon & Stars necklace is absolutely beautiful and your customers will adore it.

This is just one example of the thousands of cutting edge styles by Midas Chain.

MSRP: $465

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Hoover & Strong

10700 Trade Road North Chesterfield, VA 23236 Tel: 800-759-9997 Fax: 800-616-9997 Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Website: hooverandstrong.com Hoover & Strong has a brand new catalog!

Ask for yours today. Over 500 new bands, including classic, fancy, two-tone, multitone, and diamond band styles!

MAY 2017

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Effy Jewelry 15 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 855-ASK-EFFY Website: effyjewelry.com The “golden hour” continues at Effy Jewelry with the expansion of our ever-popular D’Oro collection—a line dedicated to celebrating brilliant pavé-set diamonds in rich 14k yellow gold that just begs to be touched.

Makur 42 W. 48th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-730-8696 Fax: 212-730-8786 Email: makurinfo@yahoo.com Website: makurdesigns.com Elegant morganite and diamond bracelet set in rose and white gold by Makur Lux Salon 502.

Ovadia Corporation Rahaminov Diamonds 606 S. Olive St., Suite 2018 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-622-9866 Email: melanie@rahaminov.com Website: rahaminov.com

101 E. Main St. Little Falls, NJ 07424 Tel: 973-256-9200 Email: sales@ovadia.com Website: ovadia.com

Our timeless three-stone oval diamond ring set in platinum. At Rahaminov Diamonds, the diamond inspires the design.

Ovadia’s Travelite boxes offer elegant, durable presentation on the go. Interleaving pads double the amount of jewelry held.

Ideal for travel, retail, and understock, with custom materials and printing. Shown in hinged and two-piece petite sizes, weighing 125 grams each.

Shanghai Lao Feng Xiang Co., LTD

Kindred Keepsake Jewelry

No. 270 Caoxi Rd. ShangHai, China 200235 Tel: 0086 21 64833388 Fax: 0086 21 64706366 Email: lfxscb@126.com Website: laofengxiang.com

5246 Olympic Drive NW Gig Harbor, WA 98335 Tel: 877-265-7994 Fax: 253-514-8473 Email: service@kindredkeepsake.com Website: kindredkeepsake.com

Utilizing national intangible cultural heritage—Lao Feng Xiang gold and silver craftwork—this vintage piece of work features the phoenix, the symbol of Lao Feng Xiang, demonstrating the spirit of both classicism and modernism.

Kindred is a world-leading supplier of personalized and specialized jewelry available in stainless, sterling, 14k solid yellow gold, solid white gold, and platinum.

Offering actual fingerprint, baby footprint, baby handprint, pet paw print, photo, and cremation jewelry.

MAY 2017

Adasco Designs 62 W. 47th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-632-6685 Email: info@adasco.com Website: adasco.com

Made in the USA

No Order is too Small or too Big!

Platinum Ideal Matched 3-Cushion Ring with center 2 ct. G VS2 (GIA).

Platinum Ideal Matched Radiant Eternity Band, 14 cts. t.w. D-F, VS+ (GIA).

Adasco Designs is the source for Ideal Matched Pairs & Layouts of all fancy shapes.

Sophia by Design 457 Haddonfield Road, Suite 420 Cherry Hill, NJ 08002 Tel: 215-629-0260 Email: sales@sophiabydesign.com Website: sophiabydesign.com Sophia by Design has crafted fine jewelry for every occasion for over three decades.

Through a dedication to excellence and a passion for style, Sophia by Design has stayed at the forefront of fashion trends.

SPB Creations LLC 15 W. 47th St., #709 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-719-5170 Fax: 212-391-0062 Email: info@spbgems.com Website: spbgems.com SPB Creations LLC is the premier source for fine-quality color stones and diamonds. We are dedicated to exceeding our clientsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; expectations in superior customer service and ethically sourced gemstones!

JCK-Las Vegas Booth #B58032 Toll Free: 888-430-4344 Mailgpanther@aol.com www.gpanther.com

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DA GOLD

Ashi Diamonds

2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-819-1111 Fax: 212-730-5706 Email: da@dagoldproducts.com Website: dagoldproducts.com

18 E. 48th St., 14th floor New York, NY 10017 Tel: 800-622-2744 Email: info@ashidiamonds.com Website: ashidiamonds.com

These unique and timelessly elegant 18k bangles are crafted in Italy and enhanced with 0.8 ct. t.w. diamonds. They look beautiful worn alone or stacked together. Visit us at JCK LUXURY Las Vegas, Booth LUX1021.

Ashi Diamonds is excited to unveil its 2017 Bridal Book: Elegance Redefined. Ashi’s bridal line caters to every bride’s hunt for the Perfect One for Her. Ashi’s designs capture the details that will truly set her apart. For more information, please call or visit our website.

Thorsten Jewelry Costar Imports Inc. Burlingame, CA 94010 Tel: 888-726-7827 Email: info@costarimports.com Website: costarimports.com This vintage-style engagement ring is designed to hold a 0.50–0.75 ct. round and cushion center stone. Ring: 0.65 ct. t.w., $2,700; band: 0.45 ct. t.w., $1,800 (Style R12456). Available as non-halo setting (Style R11144).

Effy Jewelry 15 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 855-ASK-EFFY Website: effyjewelry.com With pearls on trend more than ever, Effy Jewelry is making a case to revisit these natural wonders. Unique and trendy settings in 14K gold and sterling silver provide versatile options at every price point.

MAY 2017

444 Ocean Blvd., Suite 800 Long Beach, CA, 90802 Tel: 888-209-4757 Email: support@thorstenrings.com Website: thorstenrings.com Thorsten is a bold innovative American designer jewelry brand that focuses on alternative metal rings for men and women. Paying homage to Thor, the Norse god associated with thunder, lightning, and strength, our alternative metal rings are made from the strongest materials used in the jewelry industry: tungsten, cobalt chrome, titanium, and ceramic.

Arch Crown Inc. 460 Hillside Ave. Hillside, NJ 07205 Tel: 800-526-8353 Fax: 973-731-2228 Email: orders@archcrown.com Website: archcrown.com New! Poly-Lam Thermal Transfer Computer Tags. Poly-Lam material has superior print durability and can withstand ultrasonic cleaning; text and bar code will not rub off. Computer string and barbell-style tags are available in eight colors. Available in gloss and matte finish for computer printing and handwriting. Clear-Tail tags also available.

JCK Las Vegas Booth B64056

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El Dorado Jewelry Inc.

550 S. Hill St., #1495 Los Angeles, CA 90013 Tel: 213-689-4406 Fax: 586-620-6756 Email: eldoradojewelry@yahoo.com Website: eldoradojewelry.com Eternity bands in all sizes and shapes.

From diamonds to color stones, we can provide what you are looking for.

Please contact us for more information.

Goldstein Diamonds

6900 E. Camelback Road, Suite 902 Scottsdale, AZ 85251 Tel: 800-237-0364 Email: info@goldsteindiamonds.com Website: goldsteindiamonds.com This breathtaking ring has a center emerald-cut diamond (F color, VS1 clarity, 8.83 cts.) set in handmade platinum flanked by two trapezoid diamonds (1.27 cts. t.w.). Price upon request

ARTISTRY LTD 8272 Lincoln Ave. Skokie, IL 60077 Tel: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Email: getinfo@artistrylimited.com Website: artistrylimited.com Classics with a twist. Beautiful precious color 20mm circles with 0.07 ct. t.w. contemporary diamond bails in 14k white gold. MSRP: blue sapphire, $1,155; ruby, $1,185; emerald, $1,945. 18-inch chains included.

Dabakarov

62 W. 45th St., Eighth Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-730-1888 Fax: 212-302-5316 Email: info@dabakarov.com Website: dabakarov.com Exceptional is our standard.

Gabriel & Co.

Samira®

Designed for the modern woman, our stackable rings are made to be worn effortlessly—no matter what day it is or what the future holds.

Express yourself with a one-of-a-kind combination that is uniquely you.

(Style LR51249Y45JJ, Style LR51247Y45JJ, Style LR51251Y45JJ).

Samira® designs for the modern woman, choosing only the best possible quality stones available.

With a keen understanding of diamonds, colored stones, and the world of fashion, Samira® keeps her designs ahead of the trends.

545 W. 45th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-519-1400 Email: mjgonzalez@gabrielny.com Website: gabrielny.com

MAY 2017

Tel: 213-624-2611 Website: jewelsbysamira.com

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Dabakarov 62 W. 45th St., Eighth Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-730-1888 Fax: 212-302-5316 Email: info@dabakarov.com Website: dabakarov.com

Phillip Gavriel

Exceptional is our standard.

The Popcorn collection, crafted in sterling silver and 18k gold and featuring diamonds, sapphires, and precious gemstones. These horseshoe bracelets in sterling silver and 18k gold feature diamonds.

Made in Italy. MSRP from $495

Legor Group SPA Via Del Lavoro, 1 36050 Bressanvido (VI) Vicenza, Italy Tel: 0039 0444 497911 Fax: 0039 0444 660677 Email: sara_r@legor.com Website: legorgroup.com Silnova®. The new silver alloy that keeps its light over time—naturally, without any plating treatment, and equal to a gold alloy—20 times longer than standard silver. With a unique, brilliant white color. silnova.it

2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Website: phillipgavriel.com

The Royal Chain Group 2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Email: sales@royalchain.com Website: royalchain.com Royal Chain’s adjustable Friendship bracelet collection features this 14k gold open heart bracelet. Other styles available in sterling silver as well.

MSRP from $49

Almor Design/Heskia 2441 W. 205th St., #C204 Torrance, CA 90501 Tel: 855-558-8077 Email: info@estellaj.com Website: estellaj.com

98 Cutter Mill Road, Suite 125 Great Neck, NY 11021 Tel: 516-482-8030 Fax: 516-482-0259 Email: info@almordesign.com Website: almordesign.com instagram.com/almordesigninc

A combination of rock crystal, 14k rose gold, and pavé-set diamonds makes gorgeous pieces!

Estella J offers a variety of unique, elegant, and sophisticated fine-jewelry designs, with each piece handcrafted in every detail.

Manufacturers of natural fancy color diamond fashion and bridal jewelry. Our natural fancy color diamond jewelry collection boasts an incredible array of blue, pink, yellow, green, and multicolored diamond pieces. Most items come with GIA certificates.

JCK LUXURY Booth LUX437

Estella J

MAY 2017

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE Jewelex New York Ltd.

529 Fifth Ave., 18th Floor New York, NY 10017 Tel: 800-208-9999 Fax: 212-840-6971 Email: atul.kothari@jewelexgroup.com Website: jewelexgroup.com From Jewelex New York Ltd., this stunning Oriana® Lace bridal is set in 14k gold and features a round center halo design embellished with a lace-inspired yellow gold side profile.

Stuller Inc.

302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com Stuller aims to give jewelers every product option they need.

Lab-grown diamonds now appeal to certain customers. Don’t lose a sale by not having them in stock—we will have them for you. Learn more at stuller.com/labgrowndiamondsinfo.

GN Diamond

800 Chestnut St. Philadelphia, PA 19107 Tel: 800-724-8810 Fax: 215-925-0217 Email: sales@gndiamond.com Website: gndiamond.com We offer one of the largest selections of GIAcertified loose diamonds. White, bright diamond studs in all price points from 0.2 to 20 cts. t.w. Over 2,500 pairs.

Stud programs available. Classic tennis bracelets and Riviera necklaces.

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Lashbrook Dabakarov

62 W. 45th St., Eighth Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-730-1888 Fax: 212-302-5316 Email: info@dabakarov.com Website: dabakarov.com Exceptional is our standard.

131 E. 13065 South Draper, UT 84020 Tel: 888-252-7388 Fax: 801-352-7236 Email: marketing@lashbrookdesigns.com Website: lashbrookdesigns.com Today’s customers expect more. We love that! At Lashbrook, we create custom and award-winning styles using precious and alternative metals, stones, and other exotic materials. Now you can give your customers exactly what they want.

Shy Creation Rahaminov Diamonds

606 S. Olive St., Suite 2018 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-622-9866 Email: melanie@rahaminov.com Website: rahaminov.com Our perfectly calibrated oval eternity band, available in various sizes and shapes. At Rahaminov Diamonds, the diamond inspires the design.

Livingstone Jewelry

631 S. Olive St., Suite 340 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-683-1040/800-654-3394 Fax: 213-683-0422 Email: inquiry@livingstonejewelry.com Website: livingstonejewelry.com A manufacturer with more than 20 years of experience producing highquality, semiprecious gemstone and pearl jewelry. Our products are very contemporary and unique in designs with good price points. We are excited to introduce our Morganite Stone in Rose Gold collection.

MAY 2017

650 S. Hill St., Suite 428 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8900 Email: info@shycreation.com Website: shycreation.com Explore style with a natural touch.

Shy Creation’s newest diamond vine ring will seduce you and your clients. 1.18 cts. t.w. pavé-set white diamonds and prong-set rose-cut diamonds mounted on 14k yellow gold. To become a brand partner, email us or visit us at JCK LUXURY Las Vegas Booth 1836.

Samuel B.

98 Cuttermill Road, Suite 234 South Great Neck, NY 11021 Tel: 855-SAMUELB Fax: 516-466-1827 Email: info@samuelb.com Website: samuelb.com From our Bali Privé collection, these handcrafted Twisted Cable Bangles feature 18k hammered gold endcaps and are available in multiple widths and sizes. The Bali Privé collection is stocked, available for immediate delivery, and can be viewed on our online portal. Call today to become a Samuel B. brand partner.

WE LOVE TO SEE THEIR

PEARLY WHITES.

— We help you help children. — Whether you’re a biker, runner, or a walker, there’s something for everyone.

L A S V E G A S TO U R 2017

Sunday, June 4, 2017

The event has raised over $200,000 to benefit Jewelers for Children since its introduction in 2013 and attracts hundreds of participants.

Mandalay Bay Resort and Casino

Are you ready to get your move on?

Las Vegas, NV

For registration and sponsorship information: www.RingsOfStrength.org

Wednesday, June 7, 2017 Mandalay Bay Resort and Casino Las Vegas, NV HONORING:

Charles Stanley

Yancy Weinrich

De Beers Group of Companies/Forevermark

JCK Events/ Reed Exhibitions

After Party with Desserts and Cocktails Benefiting our Charity Partners: St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital • Make-A-Wish America National CASA Association • Elizabeth Glaser Pediatric AIDS Foundation

www.JewelersForChildren.org

JewelersForChildren.org 212.687.2949

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Dabakarov

AeroDiamonds

62 W. 45th St., Eighth Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-730-1888 Fax: 212-302-5316 Email: info@dabakarov.com Website: dabakarov.com

10 W. 46th St., 19th Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-616-7665 Fax: 212-616-7666 Email: jacqueline@aerodiamonds.com Website: aerodiamonds.com

Exceptional is our standard.

“We love our diamonds…so we set them free!” Befitting today’s modern lifestyle, AeroDiamonds Sweet Sixteen fringe necklace in 18k rose gold and platinum. Made in New York. Designed by Jacqueline Yu Earle.

Price upon request

Rand & Paseka Mfg. Co. Inc. 10 Hanse Ave. Freeport, NY 11520 Tel: 800-229-0006 Fax: 516-867-0230 Email: sales@randpaseka.com Website: randpaseka.com Rand & Paseka has the most extensive line of religious jewelry found anywhere. We manufacture over 18,000 items in gold and sterling silver, all made in the USA. Visit our website or call for more info.

Christopher Designs 50 W. 47th St., Suite 1507 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-382-1013 Fax: 212-768-8978 Email: info@crisscut.com Website: christopherdesigns.com Christopher Designs impeccably blends Old World luxury and style with modern technology to create exclusive designs that include our patented Crisscut® and L’Amour Crisscut diamonds. When placed side by side, the difference is truly clear.

Andréa Candela Email: info@andreacandela.com Website: andreacandela.com Lazo de Colores is inspired by the fabulous bows seen on presents during special occasions. Delicate and subtly glitzy, our bows symbolize special ties, loyalty, and love. This collection comes in peridot (pictured), blue topaz, and citrine.

MAY 2017

Sarine Website: sarine.com Sarine Profile™ is a powerful sales platform that offers the consumer instant access to a diamond’s unique information.

View the diamond in precise detail on multiple channels, via a compelling, interactive experience.

House of Baguettes

580 Fifth Ave., Suite 224 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-840-0042 Fax: 212-840-0228 Email: jsengul@aol.com Website: houseofbaguettes.com House of Baguettes offers a distinctive, diversified, and original line of fine jewelry.

Superior craftsmanship is evident in every detail, from stone selection to exquisite finish. Serving leading retail jewelers internationally.

Shy Creation

650 S. Hill St., Suite 428 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8900 Email: info@shycreation.com Website: shycreation.com Shy Creation celebrates originality with our Kate collection, designed for everyday luxury with a modern twist. Call today to become a brand partner.

Luvente

31-00 47th Ave., Second Floor Long Island City, NY 11101 Tel: 212-730-1003 Fax: 646-807-4489 Email: info@luvente.com Website: luvente.com Our jewelry encapsulates the unique moments that define your life.

These are the stories that you live to share with smiles, laughter, and sometimes tears. These are your moments. Commemorate them with Luvente. Style R01877-RD.R. MSRP: $2,950. 1.09 cts. t.w.

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S. Kashi

Luvente

175 Great Neck Road, Suite 204 Great Neck, NY 11021 Tel: 800-775-2744 Email: info@skashi.com Website: skashi.com

31-00 47th Ave., Second Floor Long Island City, NY 11101 Tel: 212-730-1003 Fax: 646-807-4489 Email: info@luvente.com Website: luvente.com

Exquisite designs, top-notch workmanship, and excellent customer service are the foundation of S. Kashi. Discover our world of magnificent jewelry at skashi.com.

Belle Étoile 5901 Christie Ave., Suite 501 Emeryville, CA 94608 Tel: 415-626-9223 Fax: 415-373-9484 Email: sales@belleetoilejewelry.com Website: belleetoilejewelry.com Belle Étoile has partnered with the Sea Turtle Conservancy to help sea turtles worldwide. To learn how our programs can help your traffic and sales flourish, contact us at 877-838-6728 or sales@belleetoilejewelry.com. Let’s grow together.

americas Gold/ americas Diamonds 650 S. Hill St., Suite 224 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-688-4904 Fax: 213-688-1504 Email: info@americasgold.com Website: americasgold.com Featuring two of our best sellers in men’s jewelry. Fancy cluster design cross pendant in 10k yellow gold with 1.75 cts. t.w. prong-set diamonds, available in three colors. Diamond square head 3-D design men’s ring with 3.25 cts. t.w. diamonds. Available in 10k and 14k gold.

MAY 2017

Every piece of our jewelry is inspired and designed through the beautiful moments that life offers us. Your moments are yours forever.

Commemorate them with Luvente. Style R02588-RD.R. MSRP: $2,285. 0.69 ct. t.w.

Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company

S A F E

S E C U R E

24 Jewelers Park Dr. PROTECTING YOUR BUSINESS Neenah, WI 54956 IS OUR BUSINESS. Tel: 800-558-6411 Fax: 920-725-9401 Email: sales@jminsure.com S U C C E S S F U L S U P P O R T I V E Website: jewelersmutual.com Businesses like yours have trusted Jewelers Mutual for support since 1913. Contact us to learn how we can help you become safer, more secure, and more successful.

MARIKA Desert-Gold P.O. Box 12638 Hertzlia, Israel 4673315 Tel: 972-9-8854007 Fax: 972-9-8854010 Email: guy@mijbymarika.com Website: marikadesertgold.com This 14k gold handmade leaf collar necklace is set with 0.24 ct. t.w. diamonds. MARIKA adores legends that unfold between the Mediterranean and the Persian Gulf. Tales of deserts and palms, spiced pleasures and thrilling sensations, sophisticated decor and symbology. The places of sheiks and caliphs, kings and queens.

CrownRing

Montreal Tel: 866-214-7464 Email: info@crownring.com Website: crownring.com CrownRing Bridal House is a name that has come to represent excellence in bridal jewelry. Under this label rest four defining brands: CrownRing, Carlex, Torque, and Noam Carver. CrownRing and its divisions continue to lead the pace by creating award-winning and captivating jewelry.

DA GOLD

2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-819-1111 Fax: 212-730-5706 Email: da@dagoldproducts.com Website: dagoldproducts.com Crafted in Italy, these 18k gold two-tone elegant and fashion-forward bangles are accessorized with 1.2 cts. t.w. sparkling diamonds. Exquisite designs, artful workmanship, and excellent customer service are the foundation of DA Gold.

M. K. Diamonds & Jewelry 606 S Olive St., Suite 900 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-629-0038 Fax: 213-629-5587 Email: linda@mkdj.com Website: mkdiamonds.com

Show special: Exceptional value 1 ct. center diamond rings starting at $1,995. Price includes diamond mounting. Please call at 800-624-2634 and schedule an appointment as these specials are on a first-come basis and will sell out.

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

214

Nelson Jewellery USA Inc.

Beverley K

Nelson’s tradition of creating unique and timelessly elegant fine jewelry continues. The diamond pendant pictured is a finalist in the 2016 Jewelers’ Choice Awards’ Best Price Point Under $500 category.

Beverley K offers stunning hand-perfected Art Deco, vintage, floral, and band jewelry designs, along with easy-to-purchase options, highturnover-rate pieces, top-notch support services, and a new branding program. It’s about love, life, and legacy.

631 S. Olive St., Suite 300 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-489-3323 Fax: 213-489-1832 Email: info@nelsonus.com Website: nelsonus.com

Le Vian®

Tel: 877-2LEVIAN/516-466-7200 Fax: 516-466-7201 Email: eddielevian@levian.com Website: levian.com Discover the latest styles in Le Vian® exclusive natural Chocolate Diamonds®, including the hottest trends and sweetest looks such as Wrapping Wide Bands™, as shown in this Strawberry Gold® band with a swirling wave of Vanilla Diamonds®.

7777 Alvarado Road, Suite 719 La Mesa, CA 91942 Tel: 619-465-4789 Email: info@beverleyk.com Website: beverleyk.com

AGS Laboratories

8917 W. Sahara Ave. Las Vegas, NV 89117 Tel: 877-367-0288 Email: support@agslab.com Website: agslab.com The American Gem Society Laboratories is the industry’s only nonprofit lab that is committed to consumer protection by providing reports based on the highest standards of diamond grading, with consistency and accuracy based on science.

MAGAZINE THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

SERVING THE JEWELRY INDUSTRY FOR

148 YEARS

With original, authoritative, and compelling journalism, JCK magazine offers readers expanded coverage of the most important issues and style trends affecting their businesses.

JCKONLINE.COM

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

Earstuds USA

5580 LBJ Freeway, Suite 525 Dallas, TX 75240 Tel: 972-458-2076 Fax: 972-458-1412 Email: david@earstudsusa.com Website: earstudsusa.com Perfectly matched, stunning, fancy yellow radiant diamond earrings (VS1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;VS2 clarity, 6.04 cts. t.w.). GIA certified. Set in 18k yellow gold.

Alex Velvet Inc.

3334 Eagle Rock Blvd.

Los Angeles, CA 90065 Tel: 323-255-6900 Fax: 323-255-6934 Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Website: alexvelvetusa.com Presenting our Raindrop collection of displays.

Alamea Hawaii LLC

334 Seaside Ave., Suite 207 Honolulu, HI 96815 Tel: 808-922-5333 Fax: 808-922-3992 Email: e-support@alameahawaii.com Website: alameahawaii.com Alamea Hawaii always strives to design and create the best-quality jewelry inspired by the beauty and spirit of the tropics, with the largest tropical collection of larimar and pearl jewelry.

JCKONLINE.COM

SUNDAY JUNE 04, 2017

DIAMONDS DO GOOD

FOUR SEASONS BALLROOM LAS VEGAS

AWARDS GALA

HONORING THE GOOD WORKS OF HELZBERG DIAMONDS

CONGRATULATING HELZBERG FOUNDERS, BARNETT AND SHIRLEY ON FOSTERING A LEGACY AND PROMOTING OVER 100 YEARS OF CHARITABLE GIVING

H.E. GRAÃ&#x2021;A MACHEL

A GLOBAL HUMANITARIAN, WORLD LEADER AND DEVOTED WIFE TO THE LATE NELSON MANDELA - DEDICATED TO CHANGING THE LIVES OF GIRLS AND WOMEN IN SOUTHERN AFRICA

DAVID OYELOWO

CRITICALLY ACCLAIMED ACTOR FOR HIS ROLES AS MARTIN LUTHER KING JR. IN SELMA AND SIR SERETSE KHAMA IN A UNITED KINGDOM - PHILANTHROPIST AND ADVOCATE FOR YOUNG GIRLS IN NIGERIA THROUGH HIS PARTNERSHIP WITH THE GEANCO FOUNDATION VISIT: WWW.DIAMONDSDOGOODAWARDS.ORG TO PURCHASE TICKETS, TABLES, JOURNAL ADS & SPONSORSHIP PACKAGES

THE DIAMOND EMPOWERMENT FUND

DIAMONDS DO GOOD

THANK YOU TO OUR SPONSORS: CHOW TAI FOOK JEWELLERY GROUP, THE DE BEERS GROUP OF COMPANIES & SIGNET JEWELERS LIMITED SPECIAL THANKS TO THE JCK INDUSTRY FUND

Colored Diamond Jewelry $2,500 & Under Shy Creation LUXURY LUX1836

Colored Diamond Jewelry $2,501–$10,000 Neon Gems Inc. LUXURY LUX1032, LUX1334

Colored Diamond Jewelry Over $10,000 Julez Bryant

Diamond Jewelry $2,500 & Under Shy Creation LUXURY LUX1836

Diamond Jewelry $2,501–$10,000 Gabriel & Co. CURRENTS S10405, S10405B

Diamond Jewelry Over $10,000 Norman Silverman Diamonds LUXURY LUX1127

Lab-Grown Diamond and/or Gemstone Jewelry Under $1,000 Lafonn THE BRIDGE B13155

Lab-Grown Diamond and/or Gemstone Jewelry Over $1,000 Chatham PLUMB CLUB PC110

Pearl Jewelry $2,500 & Under Belle Étoile THE BRIDGE B14155

Pearl Jewelry $2,501–$10,000 Alamea Hawaii LLC THE BRIDGE B12171

Gold Jewelry $2,500 & Under Jye’s International Inc. LUXURY LUX1011

Gold Jewelry Over $2,500 Messika

Silver Jewelry Under $500 Frank Reubel Designs BRIDAL B59047

Silver Jewelry $501–$1,000 Breuning PLUMB CLUB PC120

Silver Jewelry Over $1,000 Meredith Marks

Pearl Jewelry Over $10,000 Maui Divers Jewelry

Tanzanite Jewelry Under $10,000 C. Krishniah Chetty & Sons Pvt. Ltd.

Contemporary Metal Jewelry Under $1,000 Malo Creations BRIDAL B60019

Contemporary Metal Jewelry Over $1,000 ALOR

Colored Stone Jewelry $2,500 & Under

Tanzanite Jewelry Over $10,000

Shy Creation LUXURY LUX1836

Siera Jewelry Inc. LUXURY LUX327

Colored Stone Jewelry $2,501–$10,000

Platinum Jewelry Under $10,000

Parade Design LUXURY LUX1121

Colored Stone Jewelry Over $10,000 Philip Zahm Designs AGTA GEMFAIR AGTA904

Michael Schofield & Co. AGTA GEMFAIR AGTA1100

Platinum Jewelry Over $10,000 Rahaminov Diamonds LUXURY LUX921

Mixed Metal Jewelry Under $1,000 Lika Behar Collection LUXURY LUX-P1828

Mixed Metal Jewelry Over $1,000 Lashbrook BRIDAL B60071

Fashion/Bridge Jewelry Under $500 Elle Time and Jewelry PLUMB CLUB PC220

CONGRATULATIONS TO THE 2017 JEWELERS’ CHOICE AWARDS FIRST PLACE WINNERS! Be sure to visit all the winners at this year’s JCK Las Vegas show.

Fashion/Bridge Jewelry Over $500

Best Earring Design Over $10,000

Best Necklace Design Over $10,000

Belle Étoile THE BRIDGE B14155

Christopher Designs LUXURY LUX1321

Neon Gems Inc. LUXURY LUX1032, LUX1334

Personalized Jewelry Under $1,000

Best Bracelet Design Under $2,500

Shy Creation LUXURY LUX1836

Parlé Jewelry Designs LUXURY LUX1704

Men’s Jewelry Under $1,000

Best Bracelet Design $2,501–$10,000

Thorsten Jewelry BRIDAL B58053

Shy Creation LUXUXRY LUX1836

Men’s Jewelry Over $1,000

Best Bracelet Design Over $10,000

Shy Creation LUXURY LUX1836

Best Price Point $500 & Under Shy Creation LUXURY LUX1836

Best Price Point $501–$1,000 Parlé Jewelry Designs LUXURY LUX1704

Best Earring Design $2,500 & Under Shy Creation LUXURY LUX1836

Best Earring Design $2,501–$10,000 Mira Style Jewellery Co. Ltd. LUXURY LUX1007 HONG KONG B44116

Martin Flyer LUXURY LUX1311

Best Ring Design Under $2,500 GRAND PRIZE WINNER Shy Creation LUXURY LUX1836

Best Ring Design $2,501–$10,000 Gabriel & Co. CURRENTS S10405, S10405B

Best Ring Design Over $10,000

Best Bridal Design Under $2,500 Shy Creation LUXURY LUX1836

Best Bridal Design $2,501–$5,000 Shy Creation LUXURY LUX1836

Best Bridal Design $5,001–$10,000 Kirk Kara LUXURY LUX1120

Best Bridal Design Over $10,000 Brilliant Earth

Best Statement Piece $10,000–$20,000 SAMIRA CURRENTS 10805

Best Statement Piece $20,001–$30,000 Christopher Designs LUXURY LUX1321

Brilliant Earth

Best Necklace Design Under $2,500 Majolie Collections FIRST LOOK B21159

Best Necklace Design $2,501–$10,000 Shy Creation $3,990 LUXURY LUX1836

Best Statement Piece Over $30,000 Omi Privé LUXURY LUX916

ADVERTISING

INDEX

220

AGS Laboratories pg. 85 Website: agslab.com AGTA pg. 20-21 Website: agta.org Toll-Free: 800-972-1162 Alex Velvet pg. 72 Website: alexvelvetusa.com Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Phone: 323-255-6900 Almor Design, Heskia pg. 67 Website: almordesign.com Email: info@almordesign.com Toll-Free: 800-437-5421 American Grown Diamonds pg. 45 Website: americangrowndiamonds.com Email: info@americangrowndiamonds.com Phone: 212-575-3057 americas Gold | americas Diamonds pg. 65 Website: americasgold.com Email: info@americasgold.com Toll-Free: 800-621-3618 Andréa Candela pg. 30 Website: andreacandela.com Toll-Free: 888-314-5998 Angelica by Royal Chain pg. 119 Website: angelicacollection.com Phone: 800-622-0690 Arpas Gold Jewellery pg. 203 Website: arpas.com Email: info@arpasusa.com Phone: 212-869-5548 ArtCarved pg. Back Cover Website: artcarvedbridal.com Email: artcarvedsales@fgoldman.com Toll-Free: 800-221-3232 Artco Group pg. 211 Website: artcogroup.com Toll-Free: 877-222-7820 Artistry Ltd. pg. 60 Website: artistrylimited.com Email: getinfo@artistrylimited.com Toll-Free: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Ashi Diamonds pg. 29 Website: ashidiamonds.com Email: info@ashidiamonds.com Phone: 212-319-8391 Toll-Free: 800-622-ASHI Belle Étoile pg. 125 Website: belleetoilejewelry.com Email: sales@belleetoilejewelry.com Toll-Free: 877-838-6728 Beverley K pg. 63 Website: beverleyk.com Email: info@beverleyk.com Phone: 619-465-4789

MAY 2017

Charles & Colvard pg. 129 Website: charlesandcolvard.com Email: sales@charlesandcolvard.com Toll-Free: 800-210-4367 Christopher Designs pg. 43 Website: lamourcrisscut.com Toll-Free: 800-955-0970 Continental Jewelry (USA) Inc. pg. 206 Website: cjusa.com Email: sales@cjusa.com Phone: 212-695-3303 Toll-Free: 800-256-4286 Fax: 212-695-0997 Costar Imports pg. 31 Website: costarimports.com Email: info@costarimports.com Toll-Free: 877-7COSTAR CrownRing pg. 71 Website: crownring.com Email: info@crownring.com Phone: 514-381-1589 Toll-Free: 866-214-7464 DA Gold pg. 104 Website: dagoldproducts.com Email: da@dagoldproducts.com Phone: 212-819-1111 Toll-Free: 800-223-6639 Fax: 212-730-5706 Dabakarov pg. 165-168 Website: dabakarov.com Email: info@dabakarov.com Phone: 212-730-1888 Diama Jewelry pg. 27 Website: diamajewelry.com Email: customerservice@diamajewelry.com Phone: 844-533-4262 Diamond Empowerment Fund pg. 217 Website: diamondsdogoodawards.org Downeast Trading pg. 211 Website: downeasttrading.com Email: downeast@sover.net Toll-Free: 800-626-5700 Earstuds USA pg. 201 Website: earstudsusa.com Email: sales@earstudsusa.com Toll-Free: 866-327-7883 Effy pg. 89-96 Website: effyjewelry.com Email: inquiries@effyjewelry.com Toll-Free: 855-ASK-EFFY Elle Time and Jewelry pg. 84 Website: ellejewelry.com Email: sales@ellejewelry.com Phone: 469-221-0866 Fax: 214-637-8676

Estella J pg. 127 Website: estellaj.com Email: info@estellaj.com Phone: 855-558-8077 Fax: 855-558-8077 Frey Wille pg. 101 Website: freywille.com G Panther pg. 199 Email: mailgpanther@aol.com Toll-Free: 888-430-4344 Gabriel & Co. pg. 112 Website: gabrielny.com Phone: 212-519-1400 Gebrüder Schaffrath GmbH pg. 35 Website: www.schaffrath1923.com Email: mail@schaffrath1923.com Phone: 0049-6181673060 Fax: 0049-61816730610 GIA pg. Inside Back Cover Website: gia.edu Email: marketing@gia.edu Phone: 760-603-4000 Toll-Free: 800-421-7250 GLDA pg. 207 Website: glda.com GN Diamond pg. Gatefold Cover Website: gndiamond.com Toll-Free: 800-724-8810 Goldstein Diamonds pg. 8-9 Website: goldsteindiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-237-0364 Gunes Kuyumculuk Tic Ltd. Sti (Elis Jewellery) pg. 190 Website: byelis.com Email: info@byelis.com Phone: 0090 362 4313313 +90 535 1085194 Fax: 0090 362 4314777 Henrich & Denzel pg. 36 Website: henrich-denzel.com Email: info@henrich-denzel.de Phone: +49 7732 9492 0 Fax: +49 7732 9492 10 Herco pg. 103 Website: herco.com Email: info@herco.com Toll-Free: 800-864-0767 Fax: 415-398-3699 Hoover & Strong pg. 82 Website: hooverandstrong.com Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Phone: 804-794-3700 Toll-Free: 800-759-9997 House of Baguettes pg. 105-106 Website: houseofbaguettes.com Toll-Free: 800-603-1550

Intuitions by Royal Chain pg. 121 Website: intuitionsjewelry.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960 JCK Events pg. 24-25, 86-87, 193 Website: jckshows.com Toll-Free: 800-257-3626 Jewelers for Children pg. 209 Website: jewelersforchildren.org Phone: 212-687-2949 Jewelers Mutual Insurance pg. 97 Website: jewelersmutual.com Toll-Free: 800-558-6411 Jewelex Group pg. 191-192 Website: jewelexgroup.com JIS Show pg. 180-181 Website: jisshow.com Email: info@jisshow.com Toll-Free: 800-840-5612 Jörg Heinz pg. 37 Website: joergheinz.com JTR Jewellery Exporters’ Association pg. 12-13 Website: jtr.org.tr Email: info@jtr.org.tr Jubilee Diamond Instrument Limited pg. 213 Website: gemlogis.com Email: enquiry@jubileediamond.com.hk Phone: +852 2351 7888 Fax: +852 2351 7333 Kindred Keepsake Jewelry pg. 205 Website: kindredkeepsake.com Email: service@kindredkeepsake.com Phone: 253-432-3882 Toll-Free: 877-268-3009 Fax: 253-514-8473 Korite pg. 62 Website: korite.com Toll-Free: 800-917-2228 Lashbrook pg. 111 Website: lashbrookdesigns.com/damascus Toll-Free: 888-252-7388 Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show pg. 18-19 Website: vegasantiquejewelry.com Le Vian pg. Inside Front Cover, 1 Website: levian.com Email: sales@levian.com Toll-Free: 877-2LEVIAN Legor Group USA pg. 123 Website: legor.com Lighting 4 Diamonds pg. 194 Website: lighting4diamonds.com Email: info@lighting4diamonds.com Toll-Free: 855-326-6645

JCKONLINE.COM

221

Livingstone Jewelry pg. 179 Website: livingstonejewelry.com Toll-Free: 800-654-3394 Lorenzo Jewelry Limited pg. 16-17 Website: ljintl.com Email: sales@ljintl.com Phone: +852 2764 3622 Fax: +852 2764 3783 Low Cost Leader/Low Cost Luxury/ World’s Gold & Diamonds pg. 6-7 Website: lowcostleader.com Email: wgd@lowcostleader.com Phone: 713-995-7033 Toll-Free: 866-8-LOW-COST Fax: 713-995-0756 Luvente pg. 73-80 Website: luvente.com Phone: 212-730-1003 MARIKA Desert-Gold pg. 98 Website: marikadesertgold.com Email: guy@mijbymarika.com Phone: 972-9-8854007 M.K. Diamonds & Jewelry pg. 185 Website: mkdiamonds.com Phone: 213-629-0038 Toll-Free: 800-688-6101 Martin Flyer pg. 33 Website: martinflyer.com Email: info@martinflyer.com Phone: 212-840-8899 Midas pg. 10-11 Website: midaschain.com Email: sales@midaschain.com Toll-Free: 877-643-2765 Mioro pg. 130 Website: miorogold.com Email: info@miorogold.com Phone: 212-302-6077 Fax: 212-302-6018 Mira Style Jewellery Company Limited pg. 64 Website: estore.mirastyle.com Email: info@mirastyle.com Phone: 213-622-5233 Fax: 213-622-5549

JCKONLINE.COM

Nelson Jewelry USA pg. 68 Website: nelsonus.com Email: info@nelsonus.com Toll-Free: 800-489-3327

S. Kashi pg. 41 Website: skashi.com Email: info@skashi.com Toll-Free: 800-775-2744

Tasha R pg. 6-7 Website: tashar.com Email: info@tashar.com Toll-Free: 888-999-1597

Neon Gems Inc. pg. 102 Website: neongems.com Email: neongemsinc@yahoo.com Phone: 213-627-0433

Salesone LLC pg. 186 Website: salesone.org Email: sales@salesone.org Toll-Free: 866-507-2537

Thorsten Jewelry pg. 58, 81 Website: thorstenrings.com Email: support@thorstenrings.com

Peter Lam Jewellery Ltd. pg. 14-15 Website: peterlam.com.hk Email: kenter@peterlam.com.hk Phone: +852 23555897 Fax: +852 27641328

Samuel B. pg. 109 Website: SamuelB.com Email: info@SamuelB.com Phone: 516-466-1826 Toll-Free: 855-SAMUELB

Phillip Gavriel pg. 2-3 Website: phillipgavriel.com Email: info@phillipgavriel.com Phone: 212-382-3340

Sarine pg. 61 Website: sarine.com Phone: 646-727-4286 Sethi Couture pg. 83

Pink Diamond pg. 182 Website: pinkdiamondusa.com Email: info@pinkdiamondusa.com Phone: 213-624-2611 Fax: 213-624-0289

Website: sethicouture.com Phone: 415-863-1475

Rahaminov Diamonds pg. 59 Website: rahaminov.com Email: info@rahaminov.com Phone: 213-622-9866 Fax: 213-622-6113

Shy Creation pg. 4-5 Website: shycreation.com Toll-Free: 800-606-1749

Rand & Paseka pg. 184 Website: randpaseka.com Email: sales@randpaseka.com Toll-Free: 800-229-0006 RDI Diamonds pg. 187 Website: rdidiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-874-8768 Rembrandt Charms pg. 70 Website: rembrandtcharms.com Email: orders@rembrandtcharms.com Toll-Free: 800-828-7811 Royal Chain Group pg. 115, 117 Website: royalchain.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960 Royal India USA pg. 188 Website: royalindiausa.com Phone: 212-616-7661

Shanghai Lao Feng Xiang pg. 175 Website: laofengxiang.com

Sophia by Design pg. 177 Website: sophiabydesign.com Email: sales@sophiabydesign.com Toll-Free: 888-SNI-JEWELS SPB Gems pg. 171-174 Website: spbgems.com Email: info@spbgems.com Phone: 212-719-5170

Umicore pg. 214 Website: umicorepreciousmetals.com Toll-Free: 877-795-5060 V.D. Gems Ltd. pg. 216 Website: vdgems.com Email: info@vdgems.com Phone: +852-2739-9885 Wilkerson pg. 22-23 Website: wilkersons.com Toll-Free: 800-631-1999 Toll-Free Fax: 800-949-1333 World’s Gold & Diamonds/ Low Cost Leader/Low Cost Luxury pg. 6-7 Website: lowcostleader.com Email: wgd@lowcostleader.com Phone: 713-995-7033 Toll-Free: 866-8-LOW-COST Fax: 713-995-0756 YCH Inc. pg. 196 Website: ychinc.com Zen Diamond pg. 48-57 Website: zendiamond.com Phone: 201-842-7698

Stuller Inc. pg. 47 Website: stuller.com Email: info@stuller.com Toll-Free: 800-877-7777 Fax: 337-981-1655

Copyright ©2107 Reed Exhibitions. All Rights Reserved. JCK Vol. 148 No. 3 (1070-0242) is published 7 times a year in January/February, March/April, May, June, July/August, September/October, and November/ December for $59.95 by Advance Local LLC d/b/a Headline Studio on behalf of Reed Exhibitions, 383 Main Avenue, Norwalk CT 06851. Reed Business Information is a division of Reed Elsevier, Inc. Circulation records are maintained at (800) 305-7759. Periodicals Postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to JCK, P.O. Box 5663, Harlan, IA 51537.

JCK is a registered trademark of Reed Properties Inc., used under license.

This advertiser index is published as a convenience and not as part of the advertising contract. Every care will be taken to index correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page number, or failure to insert or include information. Please reference page number listed for more information.

MAY 2017

Distinguished jew

buying e

fine jew

the finest jew ound the w ld in N

etail

and most accomplished

’s top

vel destinations.

NEW OPENING DAY

FRIDAY, JUNE 2 - THURSDAY, JUNE 8, 2017* | DELANO, FOUR SEASONS, MANDALAY BAY | LAS VEGAS, NV *By invitation only June 2 – June 4

NEW OPENING DAY

SUNDAY, JUNE 4 - WEDNESDAY, JUNE 7, 2017* | MANDALAY BAY | LAS VEGAS, NV *By invitation only June 4

NEW OPENING DAY

SUNDAY, JUNE 4 - TUESDAY JUNE 6, 2017* | MANDALAY BAY SUITES | LAS VEGAS, NV *By appoinment

NEW LOCATION

SUNDAY, JULY 23 - TUESDAY, JULY 25, 2017* | INTERCONTINENTAL BARCLAY | NEW YORK, NY *Open to all qualified retailers

F I N D O U T M O R E , J C KO N L I N E .C O M

CLASSIFIEDS CAREER OPPORTUNITIES

REPS WANTED

JEWELERS & SALES REPRESENTATIVES

EXPERIENCED SALES REPS WANTED

The Nation's Largest Restyle Event Company Seeks Experienced Jewelry Sales Representatives and Bench Jewelers who are free to travel and ready for the financial success that working for a great company offers. Salary plus commissions $80K to $120K+. Set schedule; no cold calls. 34 weeks per year travel required, security provided. Benefits include bonuses, 401K and profit-sharing plans, dental, paid health and life insurance, commuting allowance, paid travel expenses and vacation.

Fax resume to 770.499.8974 or email careers@danaaugustineinc.com www.danaaugustineinc.com Heritage Appraisers Inc. is seeking experienced, professional Independent Jewelry Appraisers to work as sub-contractors. Several territories available: Texas, Idaho, Utah, Illinois, Minnesota, and Northern New York. Other territories may come available. Appraiser must have a Graduate Gemologist degree (GIA preferred or FGA International School of Gemology). You must also be a member of a professional, national jewelry appraisal organization (NAJA preferred). If you have a pleasant personality, are well-organized, and have an ability to work independently in a fastpaced environment, contact us today! Some travel required. Please email resume to: llott@heritage-appraisers.com

SCHOOLS & EDUCATION JEWELRY CLASSES

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WATCHES & WATCH WORK ACCUTRON REPAIRS Done by a Certified Accutron Technician 45+ years experience, 99% parts in stock, quick turnover, all work guaranteed, reasonable prices.

Star Jeweler Supplies, Inc. 84 Bowery, NY, NY 10013 212-941-7655 fax: 212-941-8034 starjewelersupply@gmail.com www.starfindings.com JCKONLINE.COM

Magnum Creations, a leading manufacturer of high , in business for 46 years, is looking for a few experienced sales

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REPS WANTED Established jewelry company (medium-high-end line). Offering exciting programs for independent jewelers. Seeking experienced sales agentsmultiple territories; established clients. Marketing material available.

Fax: 516-773-1307 Email: info@vipdiamond.com

Midwest.

SERVICES TO TRADE

Monthly salary and bonus for new customers. magnumny@verizon.net Fax: 212-642-0993

Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m a Highly Skilled Goldsmith for Hire.

Very extensive experience in all aspects of goldsmithing including laser welding, retail environment, teaching and custom work.

Willing to relocate. Please contact me at friendlyneighborhoodgoldsmith@gmail.com

SALES REPS WANTED â&#x20AC;&#x201C; PRIMA NEW YORK Manufacturers of Fine Bridal and Fashion Jewelry.

Looking for SEASONED SALES REPS with established relationships.

Send resume to: info@primanewyork.com Or call 888-774-6211

Custom Colored Gem Cutting American style precision cutting or gem repairs.

Gems of the Hill Country

INDEPENDENT REPS WANTED 30+ year Direct Manufacturer of high-demand Gold, silver and diamond Jewelry seeking experienced Reps with a following.

Excellent commission.

Must have established customer base.

Nonconflicting lines okay.

830-367-3368 gemologist@texas-topaz.com

CUSTOM MADE MANUFACTURING 3D computer design 3D wax printing â&#x2014;?

Precious metal casting â&#x2014;?

Major Trade Show Presence.

Resume to: independantreps@JCKonline.com

Dynamic Jewelry Manufacturer with 40 years in the industry, is seeking well-qualified sales people in several territories. We are a full spectrum color line with a proven track record of quality, price and service. We offer top products and flexible dating.

Please submit your resumes to info@alliedcreations.net or call 213-670-0060.

THISTLE & BEE LUXURY STERLING SILVER

â&#x2014;?

Stone setting and ďŹ nishing Diamond supply â&#x2014;?

Laser engra â&#x2014;?

â&#x2014;?

Limpid Jewelry at your service since 1979 800-446-0445 www.limpidjewelry.com info@limpidjewelry.com

JEWELRY MODELS

For solitaire, engagement, wedding sets, anniversary, 3-stone, eternity rings, and pendants Exclusively made in Los Angeles, USA (213) 479-8019 www.JewelryRubberMolds.com

SEEKING WEST COAST REPRESENTATIVE Experience with high-end retailers a must.

FAX RESUME TO SALES@THISTLEANDBEE.NET or visit us at JCK LAS VEGAS, JUNE 5 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 8, 2017, BOOTH B10166

Sales Reps Needed Our 30+ year pearl farmer and pearl jewelry manufacturer is looking for experienced sales reps.

Established relationships with jewelry department stores are preferred. Excellent commission.

Email resume to: info@eperalfarm.com or text message to: (401)263-6196. All inquiries will be kept confidential. You are welcome to visit our JCK jewelry show booth at #B26120 during June 5-8.

INVISIBLE EXPERTS! INVISIBLE SET DIAMOND JEWELRY REPAIR â&#x20AC;˘ SIZING â&#x20AC;˘ REPLACE MISSING STONES TIGHTEN LOOSE STONES â&#x20AC;˘ LASER WELDING

We Have The Answer to Your Problems!

www.invisibleexperts.com SIGNATURE JEWELRY INC.

1-877-8-EXPERT 213-624-6026

617 S. OLIVE ST. STE. 201 LOS ANGELES, CA 90014

MAY 2017

THE WAY WE WORE M E G AWAT TA G E O N A N D O F F T H E S C R E E N

HELLO GORGEOUS

UP THE SANDBOX requires Barbra Streisand’s character to travel to Africa, so that’s what the cast and crew did. (MGM back lot be damned!) Members of Kenya’s Samburu tribe appear in the movie, and the actress made fast friends— especially with the women. “I had the greatest outfits…jewelry made out of telephone wire, little beads,” she later said. “We’d set up a portrait sitting on the fly,” Steve Schapiro recalls in Barbra (Taschen, 336 pages, $69.99).

Sandbox ranks as one of Streisand’s lowest-grossing, most obscure films.

Schapiro’s self-described “fashion pictures,” however, are evergreen.

—MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY STEVE SCHAPIRO COURTESY OF HEATHER JAMES FINE ART

Barbra Streisand fell in love with tribal style while filming the long-forgotten 1972 drama Up the Sandbox on location in Kenya

From The World’s Foremost Authority in Gemology ™

GIA is the globally recognized source of knowledge, standards, education and analysis for diamonds, colored stones and pearls. Contact us today.

GIA.edu

CARLSBAD NEW YORK ANTWERP BANGKOK DUBAI GABORONE HONG KONG JOHANNESBURG LONDON MUMBAI RAMAT GAN SEOUL TAIPEI TOKYO

FLORAL COLLECTION Delicate Details Inspired by Nature

1-800-221-3232 | artcarvedsales@fgoldman.com | artcarvedbridal.com Featured Rings: 31-V840ERW-E, 31-V783GRW-E, 31-V842ERY-E

©2017 ArtCarved Bridal

Visit Us at JCK Las Vegas: #PC-330