JCK July/August 2017 Issue

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

JULY/AUGUST 2017

JCKONLINE.COM

SKILL SEEKERS

5 H OW- TO G U I D E S GUARANTEED TO BETTER YOUR BUSINESS

ICE CHECK

FROM LACY LOOKS T O D E L I C AT E D R O P S , THE SEASON’S M O S T FA S H I O N A B L E DIAMONDS

BEST IN SHOW TOP TRENDS, STYLES, AND SHADES (PURPLE REIGNS!) AT JCK LAS VEGAS

EMBRACE A NEW DAY Phillip Gavriel’s collections offer the everyday elegance your customers are looking for today. Modern pieces in gold, silver, and precious gemstones with retail price points starting at $99.

It’s the brand that will carry your business into the future.

Discover the collections at the IJO, RJO, Leading Jewelers, Atlanta and JA New York Shows.

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JEWELRY INDUSTRY’S PROSPERITY.

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ELITE BRANDS & EMERGING DESIGNERS A c h a n c e fo r b u y e r s t o m e e t w i t h v e n d o r s t h e y m a y h a v e m i s s e d i n L a s Ve g a s a n d d i s c o v e r n e w o n e s ! O u r i m p re s s i v e ro s t e r o f o v e r 5 0 b ra n d s n o w i n c l u d e s a s e l e c t g ro u p o f e m e rg i n g d e s i g n e r s w i t h o n e - o f - a - k i n d c o l l e c t i o n s . N o t e w o r t h y a d d i t i o n s i n c l u d e O m i Pr i v é , G u r h a n , Lu m o n d i , J u l i e La m b, Lo s t B i rd , a n d A l e s s a n d ro B a re l l i n i .

OMI PRIVÉ

A L E S SA N D R O B A R E L L I N I

GURHAN

INDUSTRY EVENTS LU X U R Y P r i v é h a s p a r t n e re d w i t h i n d u s t r y g ro u p s t o o f fe r e x c l u s i v e d i s c o u n t s t o n e t w o r k i n g e v e n t s h a p p e n i n g s i m u l t a n e o u s l y.

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LEARN MORE AT: JISSHOW.COM/OCTOB ER Contact JIS directly at +1 (800) 840-5612 or at jisshow@reedjewelrygroup.com

S T AY C O N N E C T E D | # J I S O C T O B E R

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CONTENTS

12

70

JCKONLINE.COM

COVER

WINNING STREAK

We hit the jewelry jackpot at JCK Las Vegas with fancy colored diamonds, iridescent opals, and blues and greens as cool as a summer breeze. Plus: the hottest trends and most noteworthy news to emerge from the show.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN LEWIS

FEATURES 60

ROCK THIS WAY When the temperature’s rising, what better way to look cool than with a sleek, skin-baring diamond jewel? Plus, the lighter the style, the more pieces you can layer on.

66

66

DIAMONDS THROUGH THE DECADES We survey the 10 biggest diamond jewelry trends— oh, hello, halos!—that have shaped the industry over the past 20 years.

BY KRISTIN YOUNG

60

81

81

5 HOW-TO GUIDES FOR BOOSTING BUSINESS It’s our annual package!

Up your retail game with these mini-manuals covering everything from staffing to getting an online education.

BY AMANDA BALTAZAR, DANIEL P. SMITH, EMILI VESILIND, AND STEPHANIE VOZZA

88

SHELF HELP What’s in your briefcase (or on your Kindle)? We asked 10 jewelry professionals to tell us about their favorite business titles.

BY MARTHA C. WHITE

JULY / AUGUST 2017

TOP: PHOTOGRAPH BY STEPHEN LEWIS; PROP STYLING: RACHEL HAAS/KING MANAGEMENT; MAKEUP: GREGG HUBBARD/BERNSTEIN & ANDRIULLI; MANICURE: RACHEL SHIM USING DERMELECT ‘ME’/ARTISTS BY TIMOTHY PRIANO. LINEE MISTERIOSE CUFF IN 18K WHITE GOLD WITH 2.4 CT. LONDON BLUE TOPAZ, 2.4 CTS. T.W. ICY DIAMONDS, 1.1 CTS. T.W. SAPPHIRES, 0.8 CT. T.W. TSAVORITE, AND 0.35 CT. T.W. DIAMONDS, $13,600, DIONEA ORCINI FOR PLUKKA, 212-382-3018, PLUKKA.COM; 18K WHITE GOLD BRANCH BYPASS RING WITH 4.1 CTS. T.W. DIAMONDS, $35,000, RAHAMINOV DIAMONDS, 800-742-8864, RAHAMINOV.COM

BY RANDI MOLOFSKY

CONTENTS

14

JCKONLINE.COM

47 DEPARTMENTS

20 22 24 30 34 36

43 44 47

50 53 54 56

JEWEL BOX 5 things rocking the industry

93

FROM THE EDITOR STAFF PICKS FROM THE PUBLISHER JCKONLINE SOCIAL DIARY NEWS GEMS

De Beers buys De Beers (and yes, you read that correctly).

GEM PRICING REPORT

18

THE CALENDAR Industry shows, July 21–Sept. 24, 2017

SHOP TALK

INNOVATIVE RETAILER Michael Groffenberger of The RealReal STORE WE ADORE Anna Gray in Austin, Texas

THE LOOK

RED CARPET JCK ASKS...

Anthony Lent

91 92 93 95

97

THE VAULT DIAMONDS SILVER

SHOW BIZ A LUXURY Privé sneak peek! Plus: What to shop at September’s IJL London show.

TOOL TIME

The importance of a responsive website. Plus: the Fossil Q Accomplice and more.

104 THE WAY WE WORE Bette Davis in Joseff of Hollywood

JULY / AUGUST 2017

50

LEFT: RYANN FORD; TOP: CODY PICKENS

18

FRESH NEW LOOK, SAME INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

COVER LOOK

“

I couldn’t be more excited about the new JCK magazine, including the website and the social media....

BEST IN SHOW

YOU GUYS NAILED IT.”

L.J. West calls the “impossibly rare” diamond at the center of its ring “fancy deep grayish bluish violet.” We just call it—and the dozen or so jewels in our post–JCK Las Vegas portfolio—spectacular.

—Ursula Piekut, marketing director, Treliss Worldwide Inc.

“

L.O.V.E. Current. Luxury-focused.

Smart. Great work.

JCKONLINE.COM

”

—Dan Scott, CMO, World Trade Jewelers

“

It is difficult to take something that is already fabulous and MAKE IT

EVEN MORE AMAZING!” —Dallas Prince, designer

“

Absolutely LOVE the new JCK issue! Very well done, beautiful aesthetic, and SO MUCH

FUN TO READ.” —Maren Rosen, VP of merchandising, bridal and jewelry, Stuller

2.83 ct. Argyle violet diamond with 0.67 ct. t.w. heart-shape and 0.83 ct. t.w. round vivid pink diamonds in platinum; price on request; Scott West for L.J. West Diamonds; 212-997-0940; ljwestdiamonds.com

18k yellow gold butterfly ring with 6.57 cts. t.w. rose-cut diamonds and 0.45 ct. t.w. round brilliant-cut diamonds; $33,500; Michael John Jewelry; 800-4048633; michaeljohn jewelry.com

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN LEWIS Stylist: RACHEL HAAS/KING MANAGEMENT AGENCY Makeup: GREGG HUBBARD/BERNSTEIN & ANDRIULLI Manicurist: RACHEL SHIM USING DERMELECT ‘ME’/ARTISTS BY TIMOTHY PRIANO MODEL: MARI NAGASE/PARTS MODELS

JCKONLINE.COM

BEVERLEY K N O W S BRIDAL

Beverley K bridal jewelry is as enduring as love itself.

Every style is strikingly beautiful. Each design is timeless and will be in vogue today, tomorrow and for years to come.

Beverley K also knows that details make every piece truly special. We customize each design for our clients and their specific needs. Even though it’s more time-consuming to create, each jewel is handcrafted by our master artisans.

The detail, proportions and beauty of our creations are beyond perfect. Isn’t it time you got to know Beverley K?

beverleyk.com • info@beverleyk.com • 619-465-4789

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JULY / AUGUST 2017

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

5 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY

JEWEL BOX One-of-a-kind platinum ring with a 20.03 ct. Ceylon sapphire, 0.63 ct. t.w. blue sapphires, and 1.83 cts. t.w. diamonds; $370,000; Omi Privé; 877-6644367; omiprive.com

2

AWARDS

1

SHOWS

Another JCK Las Vegas show has gone into the books. And though there was a one-time change in the date pattern—and it’s been a challenging time for retail—feedback generally came in “better than expected,” “good,” and, in some cases, even “great.” For instance, Adam Graham, director of sales and marketing for Omi Privé, called this year’s LUXURY show the “best in the company’s history.”

Next year’s event—the last at Mandalay Bay before the annual fair moves back to its traditional home at the Sands Expo and Convention Center—will take place June 1–4.

JCKONLINE.COM

JOHANSSON: © BRUCE GLIKAS/STQ

The biggest winner at the 2017 Tony Awards? Other than the musical Dear Evan Hansen, it was Fred Leighton.

The estate jeweler dressed eight nominees and presenters, including Scarlett Johansson, in antique diamond drop snake earrings, and Uma Thurman, in a 19th-century amethyst rivière. Hello, Dolly! star (and Best Actress winner) Bette Midler went against the grain with 30 ct. Lorraine Schwartz pearshape diamond drop earrings— continuing Schwartz’s lucky streak.

Last year the designer put Long Day’s Journey Into Night’s Jessica Lange in pear-shape diamond drops, and she emerged victorious. Pear shapes FTW!

19

3

DIAMONDS

You never know what you’ll find at your neighborhood flea market!

When this diamond was first spotted at an English “car boot sale”—what we call a flea market or garage sale—its buyer paid £10 for it, assuming it was too big to be genuine. But it was. After some 30 years of daily wear, the anonymous woman took it to Sotheby’s, which told her the “tenner” was actually a very real 26.27 ct. cushion-cut diamond. On June 7, Sotheby’s London sold the I VVS2–graded stone for $847,000—quite a return on a $12 investment.

4

WATCHES Phillips has done it again. In 2002, the Geneva-based auction house set a record with its sale of the legendary Rolex reference 6062 Bao Dai, a triple calendar with moonphase wristwatch in yellow gold that belonged to Bao Dai, the last emperor of Vietnam.

One of three black-dial models known to exist with diamond markers—and the only one bearing diamond markers at the even hours—the timepiece resurfaced at Phillips’ Geneva sale in May, where it fetched $5,060,427, making it the most expensive Rolex wristwatch ever sold at auction.

DIAMOND: COURTESY OF SOTHEBY’S; ROLEX: COURTESY OF PHILLIPS

5

PEOPLE Whenever someone at JCK celebrated a birthday, Bill Furman would say, “We need to get together to toast the wonderfulness of you.” Now, “Billy” is taking a break after 45 years of selling for JCK and Reed Jewelry Group—where he helped launch the original show and served as our unofficial gourmet editor. The news comes as a shock to all of us who have admired Furman’s boundless energy and perpetual good humor. For the future, he plans to spend time at his son’s Los Angeles restaurant, Free Range LA. Stop by and toast the wonderfulness of Billy.

JULY / AUGUST 2017

W

FROM THE EDITOR

20

This Yael Designs tanzanite, sapphire, diamond, and topaz necklace was just one of many popular blue pieces at JCK.

Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief

vgomelsky@jckonline.com JULY / AUGUST 2017

FROM THE MOMENT I pulled into the Mandalay Bay parking garage on Thursday, June 1—one day before the kickoff of LUXURY and four days before JCK Las Vegas opened its doors—I was running. I ran to my appointments, I ran to my seminars, I ran to my dinners. The only time I wasn’t running was when I was hobbling—my blistered feet a testament to how often I crisscrossed the convention center during my seven days on the Strip (an average of 11,692 steps a day!).

I devoted as much time as possible to scouring the show floor, along with our creative director, Peter Yates, for of-the-moment jewels.

You’ll see the fruits of our labor in “Winning Streak” (page 70), attention-grabbing pieces that, like the dramatic rings on our cover, impressed us with their designs, their colors, and their timelessness.

On the heels of those gorgeous photographs (shot in New York City in mid-June by the immensely talented Stephen Lewis), we bring you a recap of the most notable people, events, talks, and trends to come out of the JCK and LUXURY shows—from the color poised to unseat “millennial pink” to the well-deserving honoree of this year’s Jewelers for Children’s Facets of Hope gala, our very own Yancy Weinrich (congrats!).

We follow our show coverage with the second annual how-to package (page 81), this one replete with tips on how to get an online education, how to write better job descriptions, how to boost employee retention, how to prevent theft, and how to introduce new products in your store.

The informative “Shelf Help” feature on page 88, by contributor Martha White, is a rundown of the business books your colleagues in the jewelry trade have found most valuable. And the best thing about them is that not all are business titles, per se. Some teach you more about how to live than how to sell—which seems like a pretty good way to think about management, in general.

Finally, don’t miss this issue’s Spotlight on diamond fashion jewelry, a pretty two-parter that includes a product guide to the season’s trendiest styles (“Rock This Way,” page 60) as well as “Diamonds Through the Decades” (page 66), contributor Kristin Young’s retrospective on the diamond fashions that have caught on over the past 20 years.

By the time you read this, I will have returned from a big family vacation to St. Petersburg, Russia, where I plan to enjoy the sights at a nice, leisurely pace. I hope you find some time to relax this summer, too!

JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; HAIR AND MAKEUP: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES

hat a week!

BGK Graphics

#MyKindofJewelry 1-800-775-2744 • www.skashi.com • info@skashi.com

22

JULY / AUGUST 2017

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

OUR FAVORITE THINGS

STAFF PICKS 2

1

Cosmic Landscape earrings in 18k white gold with Australian boulder opals, purple sapphires, and diamonds; $5,600; M. Spalten; mspalten@ gmail.com; mspalten.com

Joyce earrings in 18k gold with sugilite and diamonds; $3,100; Lauren K; 212-7192067; laurenk.com

EAR FACTOR

4

3

Brazilian free-form opal earrings in 14k yellow gold with diamonds; $9,880; Parlé Gems; parlegems@ parlegems.com; parlegems.com

Chrysocolla malachite and tourmaline earrings in 14k gold; $5,900; GuitaM; 917-4966072; guitam.com

What JCK magazine’s EMILI VESILIND is loving this month

“The JCK and JIS shows were full of innovative, colorful statement earring designs that mixed materials so masterfully!”

5

—Emili Vesilind, JCK senior editor

JCKONLINE.COM

Earrings with lapis, blue quartz, carved simulated aquamarine, and fluorite in 14k gold– plated brass; $352; Bounkit; 212-2441877; bounkit.com

SO

SPICY

Our red-hot selling fashion jewelry is pure perfection.

Spice up your sales with our Kate Collection #Thatshot

JA New York July 23rd-25th Booth 3312 • JIS Miami To become a brand partner today, call 800.606.1749 or visit ShyCreation.com

S

FROM THE PUBLISHER

24

Doesn’t it feel like a week at JCK Las Vegas goes by in a blur?

Mark Smelzer Publisher msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com JULY / AUGUST 2017

AFTER A FIRST half of the year that included some fairly depressing shows, I’m happy to report that JCK Las Vegas was hopping. There was electricity in the air, happy exhibitors, and even a round of applause as the lights dimmed at 4 p.m. on the final day!

As always, it was the brands that innovate, market, and present themselves well that appeared to have the best shows. Gone are the days of rolling out last year’s goods and staring at one’s phone, with Doritos bags lying around the booth, while expecting buyers to just stroll in.

The week began with a strong edition of LUXURY in the ballrooms of the Mandalay Bay Convention Center. Congratulations to Sarin Bachmann on the wonderful brands that appeared (Erica Courtney and Omi Privé, to name two) and on the show’s overall success.

Sunday, June 4, featured the Diamond Empowerment Fund’s annual awards gala, the highlight of which was a moving speech by Graça Machel, the widow of Nelson Mandela.

The big show started Monday, with solid attendance (within a percentage point or two of recent years) and order writing all around.

That evening was our annual JCK magazine team “family dinner,” hosted by our partners at Advance Publications’ Headline Studio.

Many thanks to Richard Diamond, Liz Buffa, and Matt Chervin for a wonderful time.

The highlight of the week was seeing our very own Yancy Weinrich, senior vice president at Reed Jewelry Group, honored at the Jewelers for Children’s Facets of Hope dinner (along with Forevermark’s Charles Stanley). Yancy is deeply committed to this industry and gives of her smarts and time well beyond her day job (as her board memberships with many important associations attest). Congrats, Yancy.

The industry loves you for what you do!

That evening was capped by a new event, JCK Rocks the Bowl, at Vegas’ Brooklyn Bowl. Look for next year to be packed as word gets out about this super-fun evening of bowling, live music, dancing, and all-around merriment. Kudos to JCK’s Katie Dominesey on all this year’s success.

Next up are the New York City summer events (including JCK’s LUXURY Privé at its new location in the InterContinental New York Barclay hotel). We’ll also be brainstorming the new and improved JCK Jewelers’ Choice Awards, including a pushed-back voting date to allow winners to be announced in May, just before JCK Las Vegas 2018.

See you soon!

JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; GROOMING: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

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Senior Vice President / Reed Jewelry Group (JCK, LUXURY, JIS) YANCY WEINRICH 203-840-5481 yweinrich@reedjewelrygroup.com I N T E R N AT I O N A L A D V E R T I S I N G BRAZIL/EUROPE/MIDDLE EAST MIREK KRACZKOWSKI Ul. Skierniewicka 14 / 108, 01-230 Warsaw, Poland 48-22-401-70-01, fax 48-22-401-70-16 cell 48-600-344-881 mirek@jckonline.com INDIA KAUSHAL SHAH 1A – 1101, Lodha Bellissimo, Apollo Mills Compound, Off N.M.Joshi Marg, Mahalaxmi, Mumbai – 400011 Maharashtra, India 91-22-2305-9305 cell 91-98-2171-5431 kaushal@kaushals.com

ISRAEL ITZCHAK ARIKHA P.O. Box 3237, Ramat Gan 52131, Israel 972-3-751-2165/6, fax 972-3-575-2201 galisaac@zahav.net.il THAILAND LAKKANA KONGCHUEN Reed Tradex Co. 32nd Floor, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, 100/68-69 N. Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok, 10500, Thailand 66-2-686-7299, fax 66-2-686-7288 cell 66-8-9452-4447 lakkana.kong@reedtradex.co.th

CHINA/HONG KONG/INDONESIA/ JAPAN/KOREA/MALAYSIA/ PHILIPPINES/SINGAPORE/ TAIWAN/VIETNAM QUENTIN CHAN Leading Media Ltd., Room B, 16/F 8 Hart Ave., Tsimshatsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 852-2366-1106, fax 852-2366-1107 cell 852-9438-9577 quentinchan@leadingm.com

JCK LAS VEGAS & JCK TUCSON Industry Vice President KATIE DOMINESEY 203-840-5470 kdominesey@reedjewelrygroup.com Group Marketing Director LAUREN LARAMORE 203-840-5958 llaramore@reedjewelrygroup.com Special Events and Conference Manager KATE NELLIS 203-840-5675 knellis@reedjewelrygroup.com Account Executive ALEXANDRA WURSTER International Companies and Pavilions, Essentials, Tech, Retail Experience, JCK Tucson (Tucson Ballroom) 203-840-5332 awurster@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive LARS PARKER-MYERS Clockwork, VicenzaOro Italian Club 203-840-5808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com

Sales Executive VICKY PANG The Bridge (companies A–O) 203-840-5960 vpang@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive JESSICA GOLDKOPF AUDET Diamond Plaza 203-840-5955 jgoldkopf@reedjewelrygroup.com

Sales Executive NINA MANCINI Design Center, Lifestyle, The Bridge (companies P–Z), JCK Tucson (Arizona Ballroom) 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive ANA CROSBY Bridal, Sterling Plaza, Plumb Club, Currents, First Look (companies A–M), The Gallery (Bayside), AGTA 203-840-5305 acrosby@reedjewelrygroup.com

Retailer Account Manager ISABEL CAJULIS 203-840-5950 icajulis@reedjewelrygroup.com

Sales Executive DANA KARP First Look (companies N–Z), JCK magazine 203-840-5687 dkarp@reedjewelrygroup.com

L U X U R Y & S W I S S WAT C H E V E N T S Industry Vice President SARIN BACHMANN 203-840-5651 sbachmann@reedjewelrygroup.com Group Marketing Director LAUREN LARAMORE 203-840-5958 llaramore@reedjewelrygroup.com Special Events and Conference Manager KATE NELLIS 203-840-5675 knellis@reedjewelrygroup.com

INSTAGRAM.COM/JCKMAGAZINE

Account Executive JESSICA GOLDKOPF AUDET LUXURY & LUXURY Privé (companies A–O) 203-840-5955 jgoldkopf@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive LARS PARKER-MYERS LUXURY & LUXURY Privé (companies P–Z) Swiss Watch, LUXURY Watch 203-840-5808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com Retailer Account Manager HANNAH CONNORTON 203-840-5492 hconnorton@reedjewelrygroup.com

Th e E x p e r t s i n Going Out of Business. Retiring. Moving.

“I was born into the jewelry business.

I’m a fourth-generation owner of Wilson & Son Jewelers in Mount Kisco, New York, and we’ve been in business since 1905.

My brother and I are both graduates of GIA. We’ve both had Graduate Gemology degrees since the eighties. We have our Gemology degrees from the American Gem Society and we’re members of a myriad of organizations in this industry.

Our Wilkerson story started when we noticed a business decline in the downtown area of Mount Kisco. We decided it was time to make a move, and we chose Wilkerson to help us. Was it a HPPE DIPJDF 5IF BNPVOU PG USBGm D UIBU T CFFO DPNJOH UISPVHI our doors the last 8 weeks is just remarkable. We had no idea that LJOE PG USBGm D XBT QPTTJCMF

“The fact is, Wilkerson delivered like clockwork. They hit all the goals.�

Mike Wilson Wilson & Son Jewelers Mount Kisco, NY

The fact is, Wilkerson delivered like clockwork. They hit all the goals. They’re extremely organized, very competent and they are great communicators. Every question we asked was answered.

And that’s not all. What was truly incredible was how well our 8JMLFSTPO SFQSFTFOUBUJWF 1IJM m U JOUP PVS DVMUVSF )F XBT someone we’d never met before; someone we had to trust around our jewelry, our people, and our safes‌our most valuable QPTTFTTJPOT :FU XF OFWFS HBWF JU B TFDPOE UIPVHIU )F XBT B member of our team from day one, and a member of our family forever.� – Mike Wilson

Contact us today for a free consultation!

Call Bobby Wilkerson, Rick Hayes or Josh Hayes at 800.631.1999.

Or visit us at wilkersons.com.

CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

ONLINE

“Bill is truly a rare gem in this industry, always radiating with positivity! Thank you for being a wonderful spirit at every show.� —Carolyn Thamkul on “Bill Furman to Retire From JCK and JIS�

ON STYLE

$WODQWD -HZHOU\ 6KRZ $XJXVW %RRWK

FIFTH HARMONY %ULGDO 'LDPRQG )DVKLRQ -HZHOU\

Christena Reinhard—the mind behind the charity consignment e-tailer Union & Fifth— gives the scoop on her brand’s mission (“fashion as a force�), her can’t-live-without jewelry (a custom rose-cut pink tourmaline ring), and why retail is not dead (“I am convinced that people who don’t shop are saying that�). For the full interview, visit jckinsider.com/fullcircle.

Prior to JCK, we predicted a few trends to watch for on the show floor: lavaliers (like Shay’s, top), celestial styles (see Artistry’s, above), big earrings, and more. We certainly saw those—and more. See page 64 for chic diamond Y necklaces, and page 22 for killer statement earrings selected by senior editor Emili Vesilind.

SEE WHAT’S HAPPENING ON THE SHOW FLOOR! FOLLOW @jckevents ON INSTAGRAM.

CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

ONLINE

@JCKMagazine JCKmagazine @jckmagazine @jckmagazine

INSTAGEM

FAVORITE FEED OF THE MONTH It’s easy to spot self-professed gem-obsessed journalist Cheryl Kremkow (@kremkow) at a show. She’s the one setting up her own mini–photo shoots at designers’ booths—backdrops, lighting, and all, in mere minutes—and producing pics that the artists themselves call “awesome” and “magical.”

Centurion Scottsdale Luxury by JCK JCK Las Vegas Luxury Privé NY Select Shows Centurion South Beach Celebrating 35 Years

Call for a catalog 888.674.3250 www.artistrylimited.com

Kremkow saw something Cleopatra-esque in this emerald bib necklace by ILA Collection.

It’s hip to be square—especially with these new Jane Taylor rings with unheated Umba sapphires.

Adding some color to her day with these dynamite drops from Eden Presley Jewelry.

A cocktail of morganite, pink diamonds, and aquamarines from Gigi Ferranti Jewelry.

Rose-cut sapphire earrings that recall butterfly wings by Brooklyn, N.Y., designer Page Sargisson.

Celebrating October’s luminous birthstone with JJewels Milano’s colorful cabochon pendant.

WANT MORE JCK? JCK NEWS DAILY BRINGS THE TOP STORIES TO YOUR INBOX EVERY MONDAY–SATURDAY. GO TO jckonline.com/newsletters/subscribe.

JCKONLINE.COM

SOCIAL DIARY

JCK LAS VEGAS

34

SHOW STOPPERS

1

Angela, Kirk, Lucy, and Grace Karaguezian of Kirk Kara celebrated the brand’s 10th consecutive win for best bridal design in JCK’s Jewelers’ Choice Awards.

Showgoers queued up for badges in the registration area of the 26th annual JCK Las Vegas.

2

Between the Diamond Empowerment Fund’s gala, Forevermark’s annual breakfast, and countless seminars and shindigs, June’s JCK show was the hottest ticket on the Strip

3

Actor and honoree David Oyelowo and South African model Nicola BreytenbachSteiner at the DEF’s Diamonds Do Good Awards gala

5

Sahar Atid’s Yair Sahar, Amir Goldfiner of Rahaminov Diamonds, Charles Stanley of Forevermark, and MK Diamonds & Jewelry’s Moshe Kraiem JULY / AUGUST 2017

4

Consultant Ben Smithee, Worthmore Jewelers’ Harris Botnick, and Jack Lewis Jewelers’ John Carter swapped social media tips at a JCK Talks session.

6

DEF honoree Graça Machel DBE, beneficiary Umazi Mvurya, and DEF cofounder Dr. Benjamin F. Chavis Jr.

JCKONLINE.COM

™

STAND OUT. R I S E A BOVE .

Become a credentialed AGS Member.

Our nonprofit Society is the only one that grants professional credentials—earned by those who share our vision of consumer protection, education and excellence. So you, as a member, can convey the qualities that are most important to your clients: ethics, integrity and knowledge.

Professional Credentials Offered: Certified Gemologist™, Certified Gemologist Appraiser, Registered Jeweler, and Registered Supplier.

To apply for firm membership today, email membership@ags.org , or call 866.805.6500 .

36

JULY / AUGUST 2017

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

NEWS JEWELERS CAN USE

NEWS GEMS What’s Clicking on JCKonline

The top stories for May. Don’t miss a headline or blog post! Sign up for our daily newsletter at jckonline. com/newsletters/subscribe.

1 2 3 4 5

Tiffany & Co.’s Note to Trump Sparks Public Support, Outrage: The retailer (futilely) urged the president not to pull out of the Paris agreement on climate change.

Tiffany, Trump, Jewelers, and Politics: JCK news director Rob Bates examines whether brands should take controversial stands.

Self-Purchasing Customers Down on Traditional Jewelry Stores: They love jewelry but don’t always love shopping for it, MVI Marketing found.

Met Gala Jewelry 2017: Lanky Earrings, Brooches, and Rings Galore: JCK senior editor Emili Vesilind examined the annual event’s avant-garde fashions.

Former De Beers Fund Chair Jennifer Ward Oppenheimer Dies: The wife of company scion Jonathan Oppenheimer was 50.

DE BEERS BUYS DE BEERS

The diamond giant purchases the rest of its retail chain from its longtime partner

D

BY ROB BATES

JCKONLINE.COM

The De Beers Wondrous Sphere, with 429 polished and 47 rough (63.71 cts. t.w.) diamonds, including a 13.17 ct. olive-green rough center stone

E BEERS HAS bought out longtime partner LVMH and now owns 100 percent of the De Beers Diamond Jewellers retail chain. De Beers Group CEO Bruce Cleaver tells JCK that the purchase was spurred by LVMH wanting to “clean up its portfolio.”

The diamond giant and luxury goods group have been 50-50 partners in the joint venture since its debut. The chain launched in 2001, intending to take advantage of consumer awareness of the De Beers brand name. Initial expectations were heady, with the partners reportedly kicking in $250 million apiece, and executives talking about opening as many as 150 stores.

NEWS GEMS

THE SCOOP

Inside De Beers’ New York City flagship store, on Madison Avenue on the Upper East Side

But in the years since, those grand plans have been noticeably scaled back. The chain currently comprises 32 stores in 17 markets. Several of the stores the company opened in the U.S. market—in Los Angeles, San Francisco, and Las Vegas—have closed, though it still operates in Houston, New York City, and Naples, Fla. The retail brand is now mostly focused on Asia. “In China, it’s actually a very powerful brand,” Cleaver says.

“Heritage brands are powerful in China—they are trusted.

So there’s big opportunity there.

“It will never be a massive business, but it’s an important part of our portfolio,” he adds.

Cleaver also mentioned an under-covered aspect of this acquisition: De Beers now gets full rights to its name. The acquisition “gives us more flexibility to use our name in any number of ways, whether it be wholesale or whether we rebrand some of the businesses in our portfolio,” he says.

“Part of the reason is there has always been this restriction.

So it’s first, what do we do when we rebrand the business?

And second, what else can we do with the name commercially? At least the flexibility is now there.”

“[We] recently discovered a number of undisclosed mined diamonds mixed into multiple parcels of laboratorygrown melee diamonds, ranging from 0.01 carat to 0.06 carat.”

—A press release from Ada Diamonds, borrowing the natural industry’s language to describe what its founder insists was a real incident

JCKONLINE.COM

NEWS GEMS

Q&A M2M is free to download in the App Store and Google Play.

3 Questions for...

MATT CRIMMIN

THE GIA’S NEW Mine to Market (M2M) program tracks select diamonds through the pipeline and provides expanded information about the stones for consumers. Vice president of laboratory operations Matt Crimmin explains how it works. —RB How does this program track diamonds?

If you gave me a polished diamond, I couldn’t tell you what mine it came from. But if you gave me a piece of rough and let me look at the polished, I could tell you that this polished did

come from this rough. Because of the limited amount of diamond producers in the world, if we collect rough from a producer in a sealed package, we can collect scientific data that includes morphology, spectroscopy, as well as crystal growth structure. Then we can capture similar data on the polished.

So we can then link the polished output to that rough.

How certain are you of that diamond’s origin?

There will be a percentage of the time where the results are ambiguous and we don’t feel 100 percent certain. In those cases, we would say it’s undetermined. But in about 90 percent of the cases we could confirm with 100 percent certainty that particular diamond came from that particular rough.

How does the M2M app work?

Now that we have this ability to link rough to polished, it opens the door to telling stories about diamonds to the normal consumer. This is an important need in the market. The app contains information about where the diamond came from, information about the cutting, information about the transformation from rough to polished, and a section where the jeweler can provide information. Lastly, the customer can personalize the app and upload their own videos and information.

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59%

The number of female selfpurchasers who said they bought jewelry for themselves “just because�—for no special reason or occasion—according to research by MVI Marketing JCKONLINE.COM

800.622.0960 | royalchain.com Visit us at the IJO, RJO, Leading Jewelers, Atlanta and JANY shows.

NEWS GEMS

INDUSTRY&PEOPLE

- ( : ( / 5 <

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COMINGS AND GOINGS The RealReal, a San

Franciscoâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;based online retailer specializing in authenticated, consigned luxury items, said it has received $50 million in growth equity financing from private equity firm Great Hill Partners. This brings the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s total funding to $173 million.

Blue Nile has named Jason Goldberger, former chief

digital officer and president of Target.com, as its new president and CEO, replacing Harvey Kanter, its CEO for five years. Kanter will remain company chairman.

Diamonds for $5.1 million in cash. Diacore Diamond Group was also involved in

the transaction.

Michael Rawlinson, the

CEO of British jewelry trade group National Association of Jewellers, has resigned.

Signet Jewelersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; chief operating officer, Bryan Morgan,

Andrew Siegel Andrew Siegel has joined the team at Hamilton Jewelers, becoming the fourth generation of his family to enter the Princeton, N.J.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;based business. A former consultant with the Alexander Group, he will serve as director of business strategy and operations.

Freida Rothman has hired Jennifer Young as its director

Cinthia Moniz Cinthia Moniz joined Luca + Danni in May as vice president

of sales. She was formerly a vice president of sales at JewelPop and regional sales manager for Pandora. In addition, Chad Westleigh, formerly of Alex and Ani, is the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new director of e-commerce, and Bob Grant, formerly of Swarovski, signed on as senior operations manager. ! 70 /XFDVILOP /WG

::: 67$5:$56 -(:(/5< &20

A group led by former De Beers CEO Gareth Penny

has purchased the Botswana operations of Firestone

He was most recently a sales executive for Reed Jewelry Groupâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Jewelers International Showcase shows.

of sales for majors. She was previously a fine jewelry buyer at Nordstrom. Kendra Bridelle was appointed new director of sales for independents. She has worked for 20 years in the industry, most recently serving as vice president of sales at Judith Ripka.

resigned in June, after just five months on the job. A Harvard MBA, he had previously served as senior vice president of corporate supply chain management and facilities.

Charles & Colvard has promoted Don Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Connell to chief operating officer and senior vice president, supply chain. His previous title was senior vice president, supply chain and distribution. In addition, Clint J. Pete was promoted to chief financial officer. For the past six months, he was interim chief financial officer, and before that, corporate controller.

Sylvie Collection has hired Arman Arkarakas as its new

sales representative for the Canadian territories. He was recently a territory account manager at Fossil Canada. In addition, Frances Diniz has been named account manager for Western territories.

Bill Furman, a 45-year veteran of the JCK brand, has retired.

Don Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Connell

COMPANIES Neiman Marcus said it is no

longer up for sale (reversing an earlier announcement).

Reported suitors had included Hudsonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bay, owner of rival department stores Saks Fifth Avenue and Lord & Taylor.

JCKONLINE.COM

Ring with 0.09 ct. t.w. diamonds, $957 (center stone not included), band with 0.1 ct. t.w. diamonds, $891, both in 14k white gold; Sylvie Collection; 800-992-3426; sylviecollection.com

ASSOCIATIONS In June, the Diamond Dealers Club moved to the International Gem Tower from its longtime home at 580 Fifth Ave.

REMEMBERED

company’s philanthropic arm, the De Beers Fund, died on May 16. She was 50.

HONORED On Oct. 14, Jewelers 24 Karat Club of Southern California will honor Doug Hucker, CEO of the American Gem Trade Association, with its Lifetime

Lloyd Jaffe Lloyd Jaffe, a former diamantaire who headed the now-defunct American

Achievement Award. Its Excellence in Service Award will go to Avi Raz of A&Z Pearls in Los Angeles and the Bhindi family of Bhindi Jewellers in Artesia, Calif.

Launch a movement We have it all. From fashion-forward to classic.

The Royal Chain Gold Collection is what’s new, what’s next and what’s forever. It’s a name that’s synonymous with unmatched quality, selection and value. And it’s guaranteed WR FUHDWH WKH PRPHQWXP \RX QHHG WR SUR¿W H[SRQHQWLDOO\

Diamond Industry Association,

died April 20. He was 90.

Jennifer Ward Oppenheimer,

the wife of former De Beers executive Jonathan Oppenheimer and chair of the

Doug Hucker

800.622.0960 | royalchain.com JCKONLINE.COM

Visit us at the IJO, RJO, Leading Jewelers, Atlanta and JANY shows.

NEWS GEMS

GEM PRICING

NO NEWS IS GOOD NEWS? MARKET REMAINS STEADY AFTER JCK IN COLORED STONES, there is no major new trend this summer. There was no new gem discovery to dictate demand. Instead, buyers are focusing on good buys in the classic gem varieties. Of these, tourmalines—especially rubellite and indicolite—are in demand. So, too, are garnets in the orange, green, and red varieties.

In the sapphire market, fine Burmese material is quite scarce. Otherwise, supplies of blue sapphire are currently sufficient to meet demand as finer goods from Sri Lanka and Madagascar continue to enter the market. Prices are stable for heated stones, while natural, no-heat finer sapphires are holding at their higher price levels. Market performance has lagged behind earlier projections for the summer. Buyers attending the recent JCK Las Vegas show reported that prices were more negotiable this year, especially in ruby, sapphire, and cuprian tourmaline.

VS1

VS2

SI1

SI2

GOOD

DIAMOND: 1 ct. round brilliant G

$7,735

$6,970

$6,240

$5,280

H

$6,480

$6,150

$5,820

$5,000

I

$5,600

$5,530

$5,270

$4,720

J

$5,120

$4,720

$4,560

$4,320

1 to under 2 cts.

$2,750–$4,500

$8,000–$10,000

2 to under 3 cts.

$3,500–$6,000

$9,500–$11,500

Rhodolite Garnet 1 to under 3 cts.

$30–$70

$70–$110

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$90

$90–$150

DIAMOND: 1/2 ct. round

Rubellite Tourmaline

G

$3,570

$3,200

$2,700

$2,340

H

$3,200

$3,000

$2,600

$2,270

I

$2,720

$2,630

$2,250

$2,150

J

$2,240

$2,125

$2,000

$2,050

DIAMOND: 2 ct. round brilliant G

$14,300

$12,400

$10,600

FINE

Alexandrite

1 to under 3 cts.

3 to under 5 cts.

$220–$250

$110–$225

$275–$375

Want to start a virtual tsunami in sales? Intuitions delivers.

Made of stainless steel and featuring a single diamond

Tsavorite Garnet 1 to under 3 cts.

$575–$850

$1,050–$1,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$1,500–$2,200

$2,500–$3,000

Tahitian Pearl Strand (knotted 14k ball clasp) $8,700

H

$12,400

$10,900

$9,400

$8,580

I

$10,000

$8,820

$8,520

$7,280

J

$8,000

$7,390

$7,000

$6,390

9 to under 12.5 cts.

$3,500–$4,500

$4,500–$8,000

10 to under 13.5 cts.

$4,000–$5,000

$5,000–$9,000

Mozambique Cuprian Tourmaline 2 to under 3 cts.

$1,800–$3,500

$5,000–$6,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$2,500–$3,700

$6,500–$9,000

DIAMOND: 2 ct. princess cut

Pink Sapphire

G

$8,960

$8,100

$7,575

$6,600

H

$8,350

$7,560

$6,800

$6,000

I

$6,475

$6,140

$6,000

$5,400

J

$5,350

$4,850

$4,770

$4,700

Make Waves

$75–$125

1 to under 3 cts.

$425–$715

$850–$1,100

3 to under 5 cts.

$525–$950

$1,350–$1,800

and message on every piece, its appeal ranges from baby boomers to millennials. It’s available in cuff and adjustable IULHQGVKLS VW\OHV WR ¿W HYHU\ ZULVW $QG LW¶V JXDUDQWHHG WR FUHDWH WKH PRPHQWXP \RX QHHG WR SUR¿W H[SRQHQWLDOO\

Blue Zircon 1 to under 3 cts.

$50–$75

$125–$150

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$80

$135–$170

Prices shown represent actual wholesale memorandum prices paid by retail jewelers on a per-stone basis. All prices are per carat except for cultured pearls. No responsibility or liability is assumed for the consequences of the use of any information in this report, nor for errors or omissions. The terms commercial, good, fine, and extra-fine are general classifications developed and used by The GemGuide. Each represents a range of individual quality grades. When they are used in conjunction with proper grading, one can accurately pinpoint a price from within the listed range. The GemGuide is published six times a year. A one-year subscription includes market reports and colored stone and diamond prices. For more information, contact Gemworld International Inc., 2640 Patriot Blvd., Suite 240, Glenview, IL 60026; 888-GEMGUIDE or 847-657-0555, fax 847-657-0550. U.S., Canada, $205 complete per year. Elsewhere, $275 complete per year.

800.622.0960 | royalchain.com JCKONLINE.COM

Visit us at the IJO, RJO, Leading Jewelers, Atlanta and JANY shows.

44

JULY / AUGUST 2017

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

SHOWS & EVENTS

THE CALENDAR

U.S. 21–23

GEMFAIRE

Eureka, Calif.

23–25

JA NEW YORK New York City

ja-newyork.com

JCK LUXURY PRIVÉ New York City

gemfaire.com

luxuryprive. jckonline.com

21–24

23–26

LA GIFT & HOME MARKET Los Angeles

californiamarketplace.com

NEW YORK ANTIQUE JEWELRY & WATCH SHOW New York City

newyorkantique jewelryand watchshow.com

22–23

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW

Nashville, Tenn. americanbead shows.com

PHILADELPHIA GIFT SHOW Oaks, Pa.

philadelphia giftshow.com

24–25

INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD Brooklyn, N.Y. iwjg.com

27–30

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS Franklin, N.C.

glwshows.com

PASADENA BEAD & DESIGN SHOW Pasadena, Calif.

beadanddesign.com

28–30

ARKANSAS JEWELERS ASSOCIATION CONVENTION

Little Rock, Ark.

arkansasjewelers.com

29–30

GEMFAIRE

Pleasanton, Calif. gemfaire.com

DALLAS SUMMER BEAD & JEWELRY SHOW Grapevine, Texas aksshow.com

5–6

americanbead shows.com

Charlotte, N.C.

30–AUG. 2

ASD MARKET WEEK Las Vegas

asdonline.com

• AUGUST 4–6

AMERICAN CRAFT SHOW

San Francisco

craftcouncil.org/shows

MEMPHIS GIFT AND JEWELRY SHOW

americanbead shows.com

West Springfield, Mass.

GEMFAIRE

GTS GIFT & JEWELRY SHOW

Greensboro, N.C. gtshows.com

INDEPENDENT JEWELERS ORGANIZATION CONFERENCE ijo.com

ubmfashion.com

mzexpos.com

5–7

Seattle

New York City

EAST COAST GEM, MINERAL & FOSSIL SHOW

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW

5–8

ACCESSORIE CIRCUIT & ACCESSORIES THE SHOW

11–13

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW

Louisville, Ky.

6–8

Sacramento, Calif. gemfaire.com

OKLAHOMA JEWELERS ASSOCIATION

Oklahoma City

oklahomajewelers.org

SANTA CLARA BEAD & DESIGN SHOW

July Birthstone

RUBY Earrings in 18k yellow gold with 27.71 cts. t.w. natural Burmese rubies and 0.79 ct. t.w. diamonds; price on request; Trésor Collection; info@tresorcollection.com; tresorcollection.com

Santa Clara, Calif. beadanddesign.com

Memphis, Tenn.

12–13

16–20

Fort Myers, Fla.

Oaks, Pa.

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW

helenbrett.com

americanbead shows.com

12–14 Atlanta

Costa Mesa, Calif.

12–15

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

atlantajewelry show.com

48TH ACE IT ANNUAL MID-YEAR CONFERENCE Indianapolis

najaappraisers.com

14–15

JCKONLINE.COM

beadfest.com

18–20

ATLANTA JEWELRY SHOW

Gems and the City! New York Jewelry Week kicks off July 23.

BEAD FEST PHILADELPHIA

INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD

Long Beach, Calif. iwjg.com

COSTA MESA BEAD & DESIGN SHOW beadanddesign.com

Chicago

intergem.com

18–21

NEW ORLEANS GIFT AND JEWELRY SHOW New Orleans

helenbrett.com

SEATTLE GIFT SHOW Seattle

seattlegiftshow.com

19–20

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW

Memphis, Tenn. americanbead shows.com

25–27

GEMFAIRE

Costa Mesa, Calif. gemfaire.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Chantilly, Va. intergem.com

GCSHUTTER/THE IMAGE BANK/GETTY

• JULY

45

INTERNATIONAL • SEPTEMBER 1–3

GEMFAIRE

Santa Barbara, Calif. gemfaire.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Hartford, Conn. intergem.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Pasadena, Calif. intergem.com

7–10

FASHION JEWELRY & ACCESSORY SHOW Orlando, Fla. ifjag.com

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS Tucson

glwshows.com

JOGS TUCSON GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Tucson

jogsshow.com

8–10

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

San Mateo, Calif. intergem.com

COLORADO MINERAL & FOSSIL FALL SHOW Denver

rockygems.com

10–11

SELECT JEWELRY SHOW Dallas

selectjewelry show.com

14–17

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Denver

intergem.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Oaks, Pa.

intergem.com

15–17

GEMFAIRE

San Rafael, Calif. gemfaire.com

16–18

FLORIDA JEWELRY & APPAREL EXPO Kissimmee, Fla. gtshows.com

17–18

SELECT JEWELRY SHOW Ledyard, Conn. selectjewelry show.com

NEW ORLEANS FALL BEAD & JEWELRY SHOW

17–19

aksshow.com

New York City

Kenner, La. WALTER BIBIKOW/AGE FOTOSTOCK/GETTY

8–16

• JULY

27–30

ALBERTA GIFT FAIR Edmonton, Alberta cangift.org

27–31

INDIA INTERNATIONAL JEWELRY SHOW & SIGNATURE IIJS

28–30

JAPAN JEWELLERY FAIR Tokyo

iijs.org

japanjewelleryfair. com/en

28–31

31–SEPT. 2

Mumbai, India

MALAYSIA INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia elite.com.my

• AUGUST 3–4

AUSTRALIAN OPAL EXHIBITION

7–10

31–SEPT. 3

FACETS SRI LANKA Colombo, Sri Lanka facetssrilanka.com

• SEPTEMBER

Jaipur, India jasjaipur.com

2–4

FENINJER

São Paulo

novo.feninjer.com.br

TORONTO GIFT FAIR cangift.org

ambermart. amberexpo.pl

11TH JEWELLERS ASSOCIATION SHOW

austopalexpo.com.au

Toronto

Gda sk, Poland

1–4

Queensland, Australia

13–16

AMBERMART

3–6

AUTUMN FAIR

Birmingham, England autumnfair.com

8–10

NORDIC WATCH & JEWELLERY FAIR Stockholm

preciousfair.se/en

MIDORA

8–11

midora.de/en

Paris

Leipzig, Germany

3–5

INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY LONDON London

jewellerylondon.com

BIJORHCA bijorhca.com

13–16

ASIA’S FASHION JEWELLERY & ACCESSORIES FAIR Hong Kong

exhibitions.asiafja. com/9fj

IIJS and Signature merge in Mumbai July 27–31.

13–19

HONG KONG JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR Hong Kong

exhibitions.jewellery netasia.com/9jg

20–24 BISUTEX Madrid

ifema.es/bisutex_01

August Birthstone

COTERIE & ACCESSORIES THE SHOW

SPINEL

ubmfashion.com

Olive Branch ring in 19k yellow and 18k white gold with 6.08 ct. lavender spinel and 0.18 ct. t.w. diamonds; $25,610; Aaron Henry; 213-623-4228; aaronhenry.com

GET READY FOR…

JIS MIAMI OCTOBER 8–11 JCKONLINE.COM

Cla

T:

,

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

47

JULY / AUGUST 2017

FOR THE SUCCESS OF YOUR STORE

SHOP TALK

FACE ( TO FACE ) VALUE

The RealReal’s luxury consignment offices give online consumers access to experts IRL

T

BY EMILI VESILIND PHOTOGRAPHY BY CODY PICKENS

HE TWO FASTEST-GROWING categories on The RealReal, the popular online retailer of secondhand designer fashion, are preowned fine jewelry and luxury watches. The categories sell so solidly on the site, which was founded in 2011 by tech industry veteran Julie Wainwright, that the company recently opened six brick-and-mortar “valuation offices” across the United States (the latest, in Washington, D.C., bowed in April).

The offices—also located in San Francisco, Chicago, New York City, Los Angeles, and Dallas—facilitate face-to-face experiences between consignors and gemologists and watch and jewelry experts. Michael Groffenberger, managing director of luxury consignment offices for The RealReal, says the idea for the valuation centers arose when “we realized we can create a great marketplace online, but we also needed to recognize that customers and consignors want to meet with an expert.” That’s because, ultimately, “jewelry is a very nuanced business.”

Michael Groffenberger The RealReal therealreal.com

JCKONLINE.COM

SHOP TALK

INNOVATIVE RETAILER

48

Getting RealReal: a Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch, a Mouawad diamond collar necklace, emerald and diamond drop earrings, and a yellow gold diamond and emerald cocktail ring

How do you keep your prices so notably low?

All of our product comes directly from consignors—we have the advantage of directly connecting consignors with our 5 million customers. We take the middleman out of the process. We have a seller and a JULY / AUGUST 2017

willing buyer for the vast majority of product we’re providing.

What’s the sweet spot for The RealReal when it comes to jewelry?

The sweet spot is around $1,000.

But we’ve sold items worth up to $100,000. We once sold a pair of Graff earrings for $99,950 through our app.

How do you think the site has made clients out of so many jewelry and watch buyers?

For one thing, we take that product description very seriously—the description is our voice of authenticity online.

It’s not “You can call these earrings Graff”; it’s “These are Graff earrings.”

That distinction is important.

What considerations went into setting up the valuation offices?

People want to understand the pricing of their pieces and what goes into pricing. We were thinking, “All we need to do now is take the expertise we have as a business and get it closer to

—Michael Groffenberger

our consignors.” Also, jewelry is a very emotional thing. A lot of times it’s easier to part with a $3,000 coat than it is a $3,000 watch—there’s often more of an emotional bond there. So having an expert there can be very helpful.

Describe a typical visit at a valuation office.

Most of our consignors come in with jewelry and watches, and they sit down with an expert. We look at the authenticity of all items, and we do all the pricing in their presence. There’s no pressure to sell with us. We give people a document with what we value their piece at, and they can take that with

them and shop it around. We would be thrilled if they could make more with someone else!

Some people are surprised by how much we value things for. Someone once came in who had received an offer of $7,500 for a ring, and we told them it was worth $75,000.

How many employees do you have working in the valuation offices?

We will have 30 people by the end of 2017. We look to people who are scientists, who are academics; they’re not salespeople, they’re graduate gemologists and watch experts. Every piece we see in the offices is a new, fun investigation.

GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO NOMINATE OUR NEXT INNOVATIVE RETAILER

JCKONLINE.COM

JEWELRY PHOTOS: KATE WARREN

How did The RealReal initially build up its jewelry and watch business?

We realized, okay, we have a secret sauce that works really well for jewelry and watches, too. Then it was about investing in and hiring experts throughout the country. Around three years ago we started building that business, and we’ve hired dozens of gemologists and experts. We take it very seriously. The jewelry store is designed as an imposing edifice—it’s something legitimate. Our legitimacy is tied to the accuracy we can offer.

Then it becomes about pricing in a way that’s comfortable and fair for both the consignor and the buyer.

“The jewelry store is an imposing edifice, and it’s legitimizing.

Our legitimacy is tied to the accuracy we exhibit in everything we do.”

PRIVÉ.

Sunday, July 23 – Tuesd ay, July 2 5 , 2 017 I N T E R C O N T I N E N TA L BAR C L AY, N E W YO RK

An elite jewelry buying experience in New York at our new location,

Intercontinental Barclay.

OPEN TO ALL QUALIFIED JEWELRY PROFESSIONALS J C K O N L I N E . C O M /L U X U R Y P R I V E

SHOP TALK

50

STORE WE ADORE

3663 BEE CAVE RD. AUSTIN, TEXAS

ANNA GRAY

“Life Is Beauty Full” reads a sign in Lora Pelto’s inviting boutique in Austin’s tony West Lake Hills neighborhood

W

BY KAREN VALBY PHOTOGRAPHY BY RYANN FORD

HEN TEX AS NATIVE Lora Pelto opened Anna Gray back in 2008, she named it after her mother, a modest woman who always put the needs of her seven children above notions of glamour or indulgence. There’s a warmth to her brightly lit space that she thinks would have put her unpretentious mother at ease. “I want people to feel comfortable here,” says Pelto. “Bring your dogs in, bring your kids in. This is a happy place.”

ONE OF A KIND This isn’t your traditional engagement ring factory. Pelto considers herself a curator first and foremost, priding herself on the fact that Austinites will find 90 percent of the lines she carries—from Anne Sportun to H. Weiss to Heather Moore—only at her boutique in town.

Just as she wants her customers to revel in their individual expression, Pelto seeks to create personal connections to the jewelry.

At an Anna Gray trunk show, such as the JULY / AUGUST 2017

51

“My mother had one brother, and he didn’t have kids so her name didn’t carry on. The store is a great ode to my mom.”

—Lora Pelto

In addition to jewelry, Anna Gray sells prints, photo boxes—even “life is beauty full” signs.

recent one she hosted with New York City designer Suzy Landa, she invites customers to mingle with the artisans themselves, rather than have salespeople hawk the line.

HELP A BROTHER OUT “I probably sell more dollarwise to men than I do women,” says Pelto. “They don’t feel comfortable going into that starchy jewelry store.”

During our interview, an older gentleman, one of Pelto’s regulars, comes in looking for graduation presents for his nieces. “I’m lost,” he says. “I don’t even know where to begin.” Pelto lovingly guides him to the Zoë Chicco case, and together they pick out a bracelet and pair of earrings perfect for young women starting their next chapter of life.

TODAY IS THE SPECIAL OCCASION One of Pelto’s missions is to encourage women not to wait to celebrate beauty. “I wish women JCKONLINE.COM

would put on their nice jewelry every day and not say, ‘Oh, that’s for a special occasion,’ ” she says. That doesn’t have to mean breaking the bank for the sake of sparkle. A pair of local designer Amy Holton’s natural stone beaded hoop earrings costs just $85.

Petal-shape earrings and a gold bracelet, both by H. Weiss, and a necklace by Tokyo-born, New York City–raised designer Mizuki

HONOR YOUR ROOTS Besides fine jewelry, Pelto carries inspirational art and textiles from Sugarboo Designs and tumblers by Seattle-based Glassybaby. Ten percent of the proceeds for the colorful glassware goes to the local Alzheimer’s nonprofit where Pelto volunteers in honor of her dad, who died from the disease. And on the bookshelf behind her register sits a black-and-white photo of Pelto with her then-4-year-old daughter and her mother. “I started the business as a single mom,” she says, “and I think I’ve created something my mom would be proud to have her name on.”

DO YOU ADORE YOUR STORE? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

JULY / AUGUST 2017

Unbelievably brilliant, unexpectantly within reach.

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Discovered in nature. Responsibly recreated in a lab to produce the most brilliant gemstone on the market.

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53

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

JULY / AUGUST 2017

STAY AHEAD OF THE JEWELRY TRENDS

THE LOOK

EYES ON THE PRIZE

Talismans treasured since antiquity, contemporary evil eye jewels range from simple to sublime.

Mascara optional.

1

BY RANDI MOLOFSKY

3

2

4

5 1/ Evil Eye ear climber in enamel and 14k yellow gold; $375 (sold singly); Sydney Evan; 213-236-4444; sydneyevan.com

2/ Evil Eye diamond stud in 14k rose gold; $265 (sold singly); Kismet

by Milka; 90-212-265-3032; kismetbymilka.com

3/ Cable Collectibles charm necklace in 18k gold with sapphires and black and white diamonds; $800; David Yurman; 212-752-4255; davidyurman.com JCKONLINE.COM

4/ Glass Evil Eye earrings in 18k yellow gold; $1,140; Ileana Makri; 30-210-723-0490; ileanamakri.com

5/ Blue Tu Es Partout ring in enamel and 14k yellow gold; $2,310; Lito; 30-210-7295-177; lito-jewelry.com

THE LOOK

RED CARPET

54

CANNES-DO ATTITUDE

Hollywood’s most stylish redheads hit the French Riviera in full fashion force

BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

JULIANNE MOORE

The Oscar-winning actress arrived at the opening ceremony in a blaze of glory: a fiery feathered Givenchy Haute Couture gown—high-necked but still sexy thanks to the sleeveless cut and slightly sheer bodice—and wing-like ruby earrings by longtime Cannes sponsor Chopard. Normally we’d scoff at such a matchy-matchy look, but the red dress, red jewels, and red hair equal red-carpet perfection.

Points for resisting a red lip, which would have been way over the top.

UNDER $500

Rainbow Coralbell earrings in 18k gold vermeil with lab-grown rubies, blue topaz, emeralds, peridot, amethyst, pink and yellow sapphires, and diamonds; £1,390 ($1,770); Anabela Chan; sales@ anabelachan.com; anabelachan.com Spike earrings in 22k gold plate and Swarovski crystals; €182 ($204); Anton Heunis; sales@ antonheunis.com; antonheunis.com

Sunlight Journey earrings in 18k white gold with pink sapphires, rubies, emeralds, and diamonds; price on request; Piaget; 877-8-PIAGET; piaget.com

UNDER $2,000

Butterfly collection earrings in 18k white gold with 8 cts. t.w. rubies and 2.5 cts. t.w. diamonds; $12,000; Sutra; 713-984-4987; sutrajewels.com JULY / AUGUST 2017

As a jury member at the 70th annual Cannes, Chastain wore one amazing gown after another—all with a range of striking Piaget jewels (an oversize diamond ear cuff, a ruby and diamond collar, a tassel pearl necklace worn backward). But we adore this mix of multicolor drop earrings with a shimmering halter-style Armani Privé gown. The tangerine fabric and the pink, red, and green jewels produce a sort of rainbow effect— both whimsical and elegant at once.

Earrings with green jade, amethyst, coral, and diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $1,850; Bahina; contact@bahina. com; bahina.com

UNDER $15,000

UNDER $2,000

JCKONLINE.COM

MOORE: SPLASH NEWS; CHASTAIN: ARTHUR MOLA/INVISION/AP

Precious Chopard collection earrings with 4.81 cts. t.w. rubies and 1.05 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; price on request; Chopard; 800-CHOPARD; chopard.com/us

JESSICA CHASTAIN

THE LOOK

Q&A

56

Asks...

ANTHONY LENT The Philadelphia-based designer gives good face

THERE’S SOMETHING VICTORIAN about Anthony Lent’s jewelry: the faces, the serpents, the leaves and scrolls. It’s no surprise that Lent, a former Fashion Institute of Technology jewelry department chair, names Fabergé as one of his influences.

But the artist’s influences go far beyond that popular period.

“Lalique has always been one of my biggest inspirations,” says Lent of the Art Nouveau jewelry and glass designer. He also cites German Renaissance painter-printmaker Albrecht Dürer (specifically, his jewelry engravings) and Italian Mannerist Benvenuto Cellini. “Cellini’s artwork, jewelry, and autobiography”—a famously racy read—“are sources of inspiration and amusement.”

Like Cellini, Lent is a goldsmith and trained sculptor. Perhaps one day he’ll pen his own spicy memoir. —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO Age: 68 Number of years in the biz: 47 Number of employees you oversee: Two. Family and pets: Married, two sons, one dog.

First piece you ever designed: A pop art–style cartoonishlooking silver ring of a mouth with jagged bone teeth. It is pretty crude, but I still have one!

JULY / AUGUST 2017

Moonstone Moonface Mesh bracelet in 18k gold and platinum with diamonds

Hanging Crescent Moonface earrings in 18k yellow gold with diamonds

The single piece of jewelry you’re most proud of: The Moonface Mesh bracelet is an example of multiple design and fabrication techniques I have been working on my entire career. The bracelet is made of completely die-struck parts that fit together in various ways. I love the beautiful mechanicallooking intricacy of the meshwork on the back of the bracelet.

Best piece of advice you ever received: “Follow your heart.”

Worst piece of advice: “Try this—it won’t hurt you.”

First job ever: Grooming, cleaning, and feeding horses.

Best thing about working with your sons: They keep me honest!

How did you get started designing jewelry? I was making sculpture that I couldn’t define. I was drawn to the idea of designing and creating jewelry because it was more versatile in everyday life.

If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing?

Working with my hands in some other way. Probably building custom cars or motorcycles. I also have worked on projects for toys, which I found fascinating.

On your desk right now: Engraving block, microscope, glass eye, tray of tiny silver rats, sculpture of a cherub.

On your playlist: “Box of Rain,” Grateful Dead; “Dog Years,” Maggie Rogers; “Cinnamon Girl,” Neil Young; “Ramblin’ Man,” the Allman Brothers Band; Anoushka Shankar (pictured above).

Exercise regimen: Long walks with my dog, Howard.

What did you have for breakfast? Grapefruit, whole-grain toast, avocado, yogurt, coffee.

Guilty pleasure: Krispy Kreme Doughnuts! Only when they are fresh.

Drink (daytime/evening): Cheap Irish whiskey.

First website you check every day (not your own!): Jalopnik.

How do you unwind? A good (or bad) sci-fi book and a joint.

Settle the cheesesteak debate for us! Jim’s, Pat’s, or Geno’s?

Those places are for tourists! The real deal cheesesteaks are from either Steve’s Prince of Steaks in Northeast Philly or John’s Roast Pork in South Philly.

Book you’re reading: Hoot by Carl Hiaasen and The Soul of an Octopus by Sy Montgomery.

Book you’ve been meaning to get to: Astrophysics for People in a Hurry by Neil deGrasse Tyson.

Favorite movie: McCabe & Mrs. Miller.

Personal motto: “Live long and prosper.”

JCKONLINE.COM

HORSE: ROBERT RANSON/HEMERA/GETTY; POSTER: EVERETT COLLECTION; FOOD: ZI3000/ISTOCK/GETTY

Anthony Lent’s Moonface ring in 18k yellow gold and sterling silver with diamonds

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New Findings at Your Fingertips The new Findings and Metals catalog is out, and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s never been easier to find what you need.

Learn more at Stuller.com/FindingsCatalog.

Stuller.com

800 877 7777

PROP STYLIST: RACHEL HAAS/KING MANAGEMENT AGENCY; MANICURE: RACHEL SHIM USING DERMELECT ‘ME’/ARTISTS BY TIMOTHY PRIANO; MAKEUP: GREGG HUBBARD/BERNSTEIN & ANDRIULLI. SPACE BLOSSOM EARRINGS WITH AMETHYST, TSAVORITE, BLUE SAPPHIRE, AND DIAMONDS IN 18K YELLOW GOLD; $14,920; M. SPALTEN; MSPALTEN@GMAIL.COM; MSPALTEN.COM

Photograph by Stephen Lewis

FEATURES

SPOTLIGHT

ROCK LACE-LIKE LOOKS (Clockwise from top) Diamond Avesh ring in 19k white gold, $5,995, Anaconda, info@anacondamilano.com, anacondamilano.com; Lace Crown ring in 14k yellow gold with diamonds, $1,585, Grace Lee, contact@gracelee.com, gracelee.com; Lace ring in 18k yellow gold with diamonds, $2,765, Yossi Harari, 855-967-7424, yossiharari.com

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TH I S WAY

W H E N T H E T E M P E R AT U R E â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S R I S I N G , W H AT B E T T E R WAY T O L O O K C O O L THAN WITH A SLEEK, SKIN-BARING DIAMOND JEWEL? PLUS, THE LIGHTER THE S T Y L E , T H E M O R E P I E C E S YO U C A N L AY E R O N .

By Randi Molofsky

DELICATE DANGLES (From top) Alzina earrings in 18k white gold with diamonds, $18,000, Neha Dani, 646-745-6831, nehadani.com; statement earrings in platinum with 3.32 cts. t.w. kite-shape diamonds, 2.15 cts. t.w. black diamonds, and 1.06 cts. t.w. diamond baguettes, $74,600, Doryn Wallach, 646-833-7730, dorynwallach.com

SAY IT WITH DIAMONDS (Clockwise from top) White gold and diamonds initial necklace, starting at $8,800, LJ Cross, 212-472-5050, ljcrossny.com; LOVE diamond earring in 18k yellow gold, $5,500 (sold singly), Jennifer Meyer, sales@jennifermeyer.com, jennifermeyer.com; rock crystal signet ring in 18k yellow gold with diamonds, $2,750, Sorellina, 646-745-6831, sorellinanewyork.com

63

HEXAGON & KITE SHAPES (Clockwise from top) Estella large kite-shape shield necklace in 18k yellow gold with 0.35 ct. t.w. diamonds on 30-inch 18k yellow gold chain, $11,600, Erika Winters, erikawinters@gmail.com, erikawinters.com; kite ring with morganite and diamonds in 9k rose gold, $2,829, Meadowlark, intlsales@meadowlark.co.nz, meadowlarkjewellery.com; Keynes 18k rose gold and diamond open hexagon motif pendant with removable bail, $1,950 (cord sold separately), Walters Faith, 917-484-0490, waltersfaith.com

Y NECKLACES (Clockwise from top) Rustic diamond Y necklace in 14k yellow gold, $2,650, Xiao Wang, online@xiaowangnyc.com, xiaowangnyc.com; lariat necklace with diamonds in 18k yellow gold and 18k palladium gray gold, $14,260, Moritz Glik, 212-679-0948, moritzglik.com; Y Knots necklace in 14k yellow gold with 0.27 ct. t.w. diamonds and black mother-of-pearl, $960, Gabriel & Co., 800-886-5422, gabrielny.com

65

LONG & LEAN DROPS (Clockwise from top) Diamond long wand earrings in sterling silver, $1,865, Feathered Soul, 310-927-2055, featheredsoul.com; diamond wire earrings in 14k yellow gold, $895, ZoĂŤ Chicco, 213-489-1226, zoechicco.com; Rose Everest ear cuffs with 0.87 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k rose gold, $3,350, Graziela Gems, 773-619-3999, grazielagems.com

SPOTLIGHT

66

DIAMONDS THROUGH THE DECADES

1

2

WE SURVEY THE 10 BIGGEST DIAMOND JEWELRY TRENDS THAT HAVE SHAPED THE INDUSTRY OVER THE PAST 20 YEARS B y K r i s t i n Yo u n g

4

A 3

GIRL’S BEST FRIEND, a stone that represents forever, the gem of kings, and the king of gems—the diamond will always be the most sought-after rock in the world. In recent decades, jewelry designers have found innumerable new and inventive ways to keep the diamond fresh.

We walk you through the most important trends of the past 20 years, noting those that are here to stay and those that should be relegated to the back of the display case.

1

10

EAR CLIMBERS

Since 2014, when ear climbers were the hottest trend at the Oscars, It girls such as Taylor Swift and Emma Watson have taken a twirl on the red carpet in styles encrusted with diamonds. Often worn on one ear (with some styles completely snaking around the ear) and offset

by a simple stud on the other side, ear climbers have never been for the faint of heart. “They’re a tough sell because every woman’s ear is so different,” says Amanda Gizzi, director of public relations and special events for Jewelers of America, a nonprofit trade association based in New York City. Climbers on a small scale, however, have greater staying power than their larger counterparts, she adds.

1. Florette pavé diamond wing earrings in 18k white gold with 1.57 cts. t.w. diamonds; $11,250; Carelle; 800-2257782; carelle.com 2. Ear cuffs with 2.31 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; price on request; Butani; info@butani.com; butani.com

3. Hail Storm ear climbers in 18k yellow gold with diamonds; $2,100; Sorellina; 646-745-6831; sorellinanewyork.com 4. Luna ear cuffs in 18k yellow gold; $2,420; Forevermark

by Jade Trau; 203-388-3550; forevermark.com

67

1

2 1

2

3

2

10

RIGHT-HAND RINGS

In 2003, on the heels of its popular threestone ring campaign, De Beers’ Diamond Trading Co. introduced a new concept: the right-hand ring. Promoted as a stylish addition to any woman’s wardrobe and not as a gift of love, the right-hand ring was aimed at women buying jewelry for themselves. “It was so powerful,” Gizzi says. “Women can buy them on their own, and that’s what makes the righthand ring such a game changer for the diamond industry.” Although the De Beers campaign eventually petered out around 2007, the right-hand ring had an important legacy—it woke the trade up to the self-purchase segment. Jewelry marketing hasn’t been the same since.

1. Labyrinth ring in 18k white gold with 2.06 cts. t.w. diamonds; $11,994; Djula; 646-869-9585; djula.fr 2. Diamond bypass ring in 14k gold; $310 (mounting only); Adwar Casting Co.; sales@adwar.com; adwar.com 3. Gabriella Rose Tattoo ring in 18k yellow gold with colorless diamonds; $4,200; Karen Karch; 212-965-9699; karenkarch.com

3

3

10

INSIDE-OUT HOOPS Hoops in general dominated the runways in 2016, and in fine jewelry, diamond inside-out hoops have been a staple since the mid-2000s. They are not going away anytime soon. “They maximize diamond exposure,” Gizzi says. Liz Brehmer, director of jewelry manufacturing arts operations at GIA, adds that inside-out hoops—which are lined with diamonds visible from every direction—also fulfill another jewelry desire: “They’re not a lot of weight but have a look of substance.”

1. Open oval two-part hoops in 18k white gold with white diamond pavé; $4,670; Paige Novick; 212-252-1441; paigenovick.com

2. Wide inside-out pavé diamond hoops in 18k white gold; $9,020; Gem Platinum; 800-356-3192; gemplatinum.com

3. Jara hoops with 2 cts. t.w. white diamonds in 18k yellow gold; price on request; Misahara; sales@ misahara.com; misahara.com

4

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STACKABLE DIAMOND BANDS Along with the fashion trend of layering necklaces and rings came the advent of stacking diamond rings. “It’s such a simple idea,” Gizzi says, “but it was huge for brides, especially wearing more than one—stacking as many rings on as possible.” Some of the most successful pieces featured an asymmetrical placement of diamonds and hammered metals with an artisanal feel. Stackable diamond bands rose to popularity in the early 2000s, says Kathy Rose, owner and designer of Roseark in Los Angeles; she’s stocked stackables since opening her store 12 years ago. “People come back for anniversaries; they buy more rings as the years go by,” she says. “We design rings with rubies, diamonds, or black diamonds—you can have fun with it.”

1. Rectangle Bullet band in 18k yellow gold with diamonds; $2,940; Shay; 424-777-0210; shayfinejewelry.com

2. Kissing Claw and Mini Kent rings in 18k blackened white gold with diamond pavé; $6,950–$7,250; Eva Fehren; 646-861-3595; evafehren.com

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3. 14k white, yellow, and rose gold bands with white and black diamonds; $585–$1,200; Jane Taylor; 413-687-3153; janetaylor.com

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For the fine-jewelry purist, diamonds set in silver were initially controversial. But when the price of gold began to skyrocket around 2005, the new style made fine jewelry attainable. “It completely blurred the line between fashion and jewelry,” Gizzi says. “It became great gift giving.” Silver became a staple in jewelry stores, with the diamond industry a willing accomplice.

Look to brands like Tacori for everyday, wearable pieces and Irit Design for edgy blackened silver–set diamond styles.

Ivy Lane Crescent Trellis ring in silver with diamonds; $890; Tacori; 800-421-9844; tacori.com

HALO SETTINGS

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Much to the chagrin of many retailers, halos came, they conquered, and now they just won’t go away. The halo setting—which features a sometimes modestly sized center stone surrounded by smaller diamonds or pavé— provides everyday Janes with a Kim Kardashian look without the celebrity price. Call it jewelry’s smoke and mirrors. “It’s going to slow down, but they’ll continue to sell for quite some time,” predicts Gizzi, who says the halo rushed to popularity four years ago as brides began to covet the style.

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1. Ring in platinum with 5.09 ct. cushion-cut diamond with dual-row pavé diamond halo; $106,800; Harry Kotlar; 213-626-0428; harrykotlar.com 2. Carousel 18k pink gold double row ring; $5,000 (center stone not included); Gumuchian; 212-593-9888; gumuchian.com 3. Pyramid ring with 0.24 ct. t.w. diamonds; $2,200 in 18k white, yellow, or rose gold, $2,800 in platinum (center stone not included); Karl Lagerfeld Bridal Jewelry; info@ sayyeswithkarl.com; sayyeswithkarl.com

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DIAMONDS IN SILVER

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COLORED DIAMONDS Brown diamonds, better known by their more effervescent name, champagnes, were first offered to the trade in the early 1990s after a big discovery at the Argyle mine in Western Australia. Initially disdained by retailers because of their small size and internal flaws, they soon opened the door to the industry’s acceptance—and full-on embrace—of colored diamonds, including the far rarer and more expensive yellows, pinks, and blues. In recent years, colored diamonds have gained cachet thanks to the incredible sums they’ve commanded at auction. “Prices continue to soar because of this great rarity factor,” says Gary Schuler, director of Sotheby’s jewelry department, noting a recent sale in which a pink and a blue diamond in a pair of mismatched earrings fetched $57 million.

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1. 14k Vanilla Gold bolo bracelet with 4 cts. t.w.

Chocolate Ombré Diamonds; $5,000; Le Vian; 877253-8426; levian.com

2. Ring with 1.66 ct. green diamond and fancy pink and white diamond halos in 18k white and pink gold; price on request; Takat; 646-728-0151; takat.com

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BAR PENDANTS

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Whether horizontal, vertical, or rounded, the very modern and ultra-simple diamond bar is a mini-trend that burst onto the scene a few years ago and shows no signs of fading away. Lori Friedman, designer of Loriann Jewelry in Westport, Conn., says she’ll be adding bar pendants to her new collection. “I think it’s an easy-to-wear, timeless piece,” she explains. “You can layer it with anything, wear it casually, or dress it up with a nice, simple black dress. It’s a flexible piece.”

DIAMONDS

BY THE YARD

Reese Brooklyn diamond necklace in 14k rose gold; $770; Dana Rebecca Designs; 312-701-1773; danarebeccadesigns.com

Diamonds by the Yard necklace in 18k yellow gold; $28,500–$30,000; Forevermark Golden Diamond

by Dalumi; 203-388-3550; forevermark.com

About 10 years ago, diamonds-by-theyard necklaces were a hot ticket, ranging from chains set with back-to-back diamonds to those that featured fewer, more spread-out diamonds. The necklaces were popularized by Tiffany & Co., whose Elsa Peretti–designed styles were offered in silver. This trend has had its heyday, according to the experts. However, Brehmer says, “I have continued to see it in the market with multilayering.”

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ROUGH DIAMONDS As fine jewelry increasingly dovetailed with fashion, jewelry designers took the equivalent of distressing to a whole new level. Suddenly, people found beauty in rough diamonds.

“Mixing them together with brilliant cuts” is particularly compelling, Gizzi says. Rough diamonds—and their sliced diamond spawn—boast “handcrafted, artisanal aspects that are very attractive to consumers,” Brehmer says. Todd Reed, the Boulder, Colo.–based designer whose tagline is “Raw Elegance,” is credited with kicking off the craze about 15 years ago, though plenty of others have since followed suit. “It had been an art and a niche market,” Gizzi says. “The past 10 years have truly catapulted them into more mainstream appeal.”

1. Ring in 18k yellow gold and sterling silver with 4.35 cts. t.w. raw diamonds; $13,925; Todd Reed; 303-442-6280; toddreed.com 2. Violetta ear cuff with 5.42 cts. t.w. diamond slices and round diamonds in 18k rose gold; price on request; L’Dezen; info@ldezen.com; ldezen.com

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WI NN I N G ST REA K W E H I T T H E J E W E L RY J A C K P OT AT J C K L A S V E G A S W I T H FANCY COLORED DIAMONDS, IRIDESCENT OPALS, AND BLUES AND GREENS AS COOL AS A SUMMER BREEZE

Photography by Stephen Lewis Prop styling by Rachel Haas

Link bracelet with mixed diamond clasp, $13,440, Shay, 424-7770210, shayfinejewelry.com; ring in 18k gold with 3.01 ct. oval-cut diamond and 3.64 ct. oval emerald with 1.78 cts. t.w. pavé diamonds, price on request, Nigaam, sales@nigaam.com, nigaam.com

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Earrings in 18k white gold with 38 cts. t.w. opals and 14.46 cts. t.w. multicolor gemstones; $22,000; VTse; 626-577-9288; vtsejewelry.com

18k white and rose gold ring with a 2.01 ct. natural fancy light yellow-green diamond, 2.08 cts. t.w. white diamonds, and 0.65 ct. t.w. pink pavĂŠ diamonds, $77,586, Cirari, info@cirari.com, cirari.com; 18k rose gold Lila ring with a 13 ct. malaya Mahenge garnet, pink sapphires, and diamonds, $57,600, Erica Courtney, 323-938-2373, ericacourtney.com; platinum

and 18k gold ring with 1.11 ct. natural fancy dark violetish-gray radiant shape diamond, 0.25 ct. t.w. natural intense purplish-pink princess-shape Argyle diamonds, 0.28 ct. t.w. princess-shape white diamonds, and 1.29 cts. t.w. natural blue and white melee, $211,400, Scott West for L.J. West Diamonds, 212-997-0940, ljwestdiamonds.com

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Rainbow moonstone long station necklace in 18k yellow gold, $2,375, TrĂŠsor Collection, info@tresorcollection.com, tresorcollection.com; 18k yellow gold Etoile pendant with 7.71 ct.

Mozambique paraiba tourmaline, 2.09 cts. t.w. Brazilian Paraiba tourmaline accents, and 0.7 ct. t.w. diamonds, $93,000, handmade Super Cool chain in 18k yellow gold, $15,000, Erica Courtney, 323-938-2373, ericacourtney.com

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Skyline necklace in 18k yellow gold with 35 cts. t.w. boulder opals, 1.35 cts. t.w. blue sapphires, and 0.36 ct. t.w. white diamonds; $11,700; Audrius Krulis; info@audriuskrulis.com; audriuskrulis.com

Collar necklace in 18k gold with 6.1 cts. t.w. blue sapphires, 32.1 cts. t.w. diamonds, and 45.22 ct. heart-shape tanzanite; price on request; Nigaam; sales@nigaam.com; nigaam.com

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Rose gold ring with 1.3 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamonds; $6,850 (including center stone); Lovemonster by ALTR Created Diamonds; 646847-2323; altr.nyc/ love-monster

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BEST OF THE

WEST THE HOTTEST TRENDS, COOLEST EVENTS, AND MOST NOTEWORTHY NEWS TO E M E R G E F R O M T H E 2 6 th ANNUAL JCK LAS VEGAS

BEST BRAND DEBUT: LOVEMONSTER BY ALTR CREATED DIAMONDS While lab-grown diamond jewelers still face an uphill battle in the trade, the JCK show proved that style is the most effective way to silence debates about substance. Exhibit A: Lovemonster, a new consumer brand from ALTR Created Diamonds, a vertically integrated lab-grown diamond manufacturing division of the R.A. Riam Group, headquartered in New York City.

Lovemonster engagement rings and jewels feature larger-size, type IIA labgrown diamonds in chic, minimal settings designed to celebrate “the intensity of love between a modern couple,” says ALTR president Amish Shah. That the pieces “happen to have lab-grown diamonds” is secondary. For mined diamond purveyors, those sound like fighting words. —VICTORIA GOMELSKY

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MOST CLUTCH PERFORMANCE

To describe one of the most jawdropping objets spotted at JCK Las

Vegas, we’ll revive a memorable 1980s tagline: “Coke Is It.” The iconic soda was the inspiration for a $200,000 min audière cocreated by designer and Coca-Cola licensee Kathrine Baumann and jewelry manufacturer Aaron Shum. The bottle-shaped bag— made from Icestrella, a material used in bulletproof glass—features 120 cts. t.w. micro-pavé diamonds (9,683 in total) set in sterling silver and plated in black rhodium. The pop art reputation of Coca-Cola appeals to Baumann’s desire to delight. “If it makes you smile,” she says, “it’s my bag.” —EMILI VESILIND

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BEST MARKETING ADVICE: GOOGLE SEMINAR AT SMART AGE SOLUTIONS “It is cheaper and just as effective to advertise on mobile devices as it is on desktop.” That’s how Jamie Blomquist, of Google’s marketing solutions team, began her mobile marketing seminar at the Smart Age Solutions booth.

Blomquist peppered her presentation with stats (“20 percent of time online is spent on search engines”), but

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Sugilite doublesided ring in 18k white gold with diamonds and purple sapphires; $5,500; GuitaM; 917-496-6072; guitam.com

Abstract-shape Brazilian mirror-cut aquamarine Joyce earrings in 18k gold with 0.06 ct. t.w. diamonds; $3,300; Lauren K; 212-7192067; laurenk.com

the upshot of her informative talk?

“Between 2010 and 2015, footsteps in stores went dramatically down. But sales went up,” she said. “That’s because when someone walks into your store, they’re more prepared than ever to find what they need. The role of digital is helping people define what they want.” In other words, a “digital first” strategy is obligatory. —VG

PANDORA AND ROCKETTES: GETTY (2)

4 MOST INTRIGUING TREND

This year, JCK Las Vegas featured more than 30 lab-grown diamond exhibitors. Fortunately, it seemed there were just as many lab-grown detectors.

From De Beers to GIA to Stuller to Antwerp World Diamond Centre to Yehuda Diamond Co., inventors showcased a slew of easy-to-use—if not necessarily easy-on-the-wallet— devices, meant to ensure that manmade diamonds are not inadvertently sold as natural. —ROB BATES

5 SPLASHIEST AD DEBUT

The Diamond Producers Association’s “Real Is Rare” campaign

has finally gotten some real money behind it. At the JCK show, the group— responsible for “category-driving” ads for diamonds—announced it has a $50 million advertising budget for the United States this year, enough to roll out new print and TV ads targeting older millennials. The campaign’s first appearance: greeting incoming showgoers on the overhead screens at Vegas’ McCarran International Airport. —RB

6 BEST GUEST APPEARANCE

Dancing girls are nothing new in Las Vegas, but a Sin City appearance by the Rockettes, the famed high-stepping dance company that regularly performs at New York City’s Radio City Music Hall, was something special.

Just ask those who visited the Pandora booth. The brand hosted three troupe members this year, part of a recently formed partnership between the charm maker and dance company. The collaboration means that Pandora will introduce a Rockettes-themed charm and have a pop-up store at the Rockettes’ annual Christmas show. —RB

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HOTTEST SILHOUETTE: GEOMETRIC

The zeitgeist has spoken: Some years are all about curvy and organic silhouettes—2017 is not one of them. If the collections shown at JCK are any indication, the prevailing shapes among jewelry designers this year feature sharp lines that signal a return to geometry class. Think hexagons, octagons, kites, triangles, even quadrilaterals (bet you had to look that one up!). The bridal category, in particular, is rife with them. Whether it’s the settings that are fashioned into angular shapes or the gemstones themselves, the mood is stark, graphic, and structural. Talk about living on the edge. —VG

DESERVING 8 MOST HONOREE

The JCK family beamed with pride when Yancy Weinrich, senior vice president for Reed Jewelry Group, was honored at the June 7 Jewelers for Children Facets of Hope dinner— along with Forevermark U.S. president Charles Stanley. At the event, Nancy

Walsh, Reed Exhibitions president for North America, hailed Weinrich for being “intensely focused on her customers” and “all about giving back.”

Just like Cher, she concluded, “there’s only one Yancy.” —RB

9 HOTTEST HUE: PURPLE

While we’re still thinking pink, and we haven’t given up Greenery (Pantone’s ultra-flattering 2017 Color of the Year), we couldn’t help being drawn to all things purple at JCK. Of course there was plenty of awesome amethyst; but we were also lured in by unexpectedly intense sugilite— LUXURY exhibitor GuitaM thought the stone was so nice that she put it on a ring twice!—sweetly translucent lavender jadeite (from jade masters Mason-Kay), and the astonishingly rare Argyle violet diamond from L.J. West that appears on this issue’s cover. The best part about going deep purple: It blends beautifully with so many colors, including blue—perhaps the second most popular shade on the show floor this year. —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

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HOW TO PREVENT THEFT

HOW TO FIND BUSINESSBOOSTING INSIGHTS AND INSPIRATION ONLINE

One word: MOOCs. They’re affordable, interactive, and great for small businesses.

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HOW TO WRITE BETTER JOB DESCRIPTIONS

Don’t make it 2,000 words long, for starters.

And remember: clarity over cleverness.

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It’s not just about an alarm system anymore. Think cameras and industry-wide communication.

HOW TO B O O S T I N G

HOW TO BOOST EMPLOYEE RETENTION

U P Y O U R R E TA I L G A M E W I T H T H E S E

So you’ve assembled the perfect sales staff. Huzzah!

Now you’ve got to keep them on board.

M I N I - M A N U A L S C OV E R I N G E V E RY T H I N G F RO M S TA F F I N G

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I l l u s t r a t i o n s b y C o z y To m a t o

TO G E T T I N G A N O N L I N E E D U C AT I O N

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HOW TO DEBUT NEW PRODUCTS IN YOUR STORE

Just because everyone’s telling you to sell wearables doesn’t mean you should.

Do your clients want them?

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We would never presume to tell you what to do. As a small business owner, you’re smart enough to know what works in your store and what doesn’t.

But everyone can use a little advice—a fresh perspective—now and then, right? That’s the purpose of our annual how-to section. We know the retail road can be rocky. Count on us to help you navigate.

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1.

2.

For a nominal fee, jewelry retailers can take MOOCs on small business–related topics including marketing, finance, customer service, and business strategy from instructors housed at elite universities such as Stanford, Harvard, and the University of Pennsylvania or from real-world practitioners familiar with the challenges faced by independent businesses.

On academia-connected edX (edx.org), the University of British Columbia offers retail-relevant courses such as “Introduction to Marketing” and “Family Business—Strategy Essentials.”

Coursera (coursera.org), another MOOC provider leaning on its ties to higher ed, features offerings like a six-course specialization on social media marketing from Northwestern University and “Successful Negotiation: Essential Strategies and Skills” from esteemed University of Michigan business professor George Siedel.

Peer-to-peer platforms like Udemy (udemy.com) and Alison (alison.com), meanwhile, host courses on topics such as digital marketing, customer service training, and time management from fellow entrepreneurs, educational organizations, and business coaches.

Mimicking the traditional classroom environment, albeit with a 21st-century spin, MOOCs often include video lectures, suggested readings, online discussions, and, in some cases, a capstone project designed to translate learning into action.

“Most online learning platforms include a forum for class participants to interact with the instructor and fellow students, fostering sharing of ideas and problem solving from those who share similar goals and struggles,” says Jessica Barst, a Udemy instructor and professional jewelry designer who has worked with Nordstrom, Macy’s, Zales, and other brands.

It’s the near real-time nature of these discussions, Barst continues, that can help business owners adapt to rapid changes in areas such as technology and social media. “I personally find the community aspect the most compelling reason to seek out online courses and can say that participating in conversations relevant to my business has helped me learn and grow.”

LEARN FROM IVY LEAGUE–CALIBER INSTRUCTORS

HOW TO FIND RETAIL INSIGHTS AND INSPIRATION ONLINE MASSIVE OPEN ONLINE COURSES OFFER A C O M P E L L I N G A N D A C C E S S I B L E WAY T O C A P T U R E N E W B U S I N E S S I N F O R M AT I O N , E D U C AT I O N , A N D I N S P I R AT I O N

BY DANIEL P. SMITH

IF YOU’VE NEVER heard of MOOCs—shorthand for massive open online courses—don’t let the funny name distract you from their potential business impact.

These internet-enabled learning opportunities crafted for the masses represent an efficient, economical, and engaging way for jewelry retailers to strengthen business fundamentals, gain new insights, and, ultimately, drive store performance. Here’s a smattering of what you’ll gain by embracing MOOCs.

GAIN RELEVANT EXPERIENCE TO GROW THE BUSINESS

In 2016, more than 700 universities offered 6,850 courses on leading MOOC providers such as Coursera, edX, Udacity, and FutureLearn.

(Source: Class Central)

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BRING NEW KNOWLEDGE AND SKILLS INTO YOUR BUSINESS

An antidote to sticking with the status quo, MOOCs can arm retailers with proven strategies and cutting-edge insights to activate a fresh, forward-thinking mind-set and fuel results. From any internetconnected device at any time of day, retailers as well as their staffs can actively address skills gaps and apply promising theory to realworld instances.

“Overall, small business owners and employees can leverage online courses since they are accommodating of schedules and affordable,” says Alice Randall, edX senior manager of communications.

“Since small businesses may not have the budget or man power for large corporate training programs, online courses are also a great way for employees to learn new skills or refresh old skills.”

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LEVERAGE OTHER ONLINE LEARNING RESOURCES

MOOCs, however, are far from the only online resource for jewelry retailers eager to counter an increasingly competitive marketplace with new information, insights, and inspiration.

On YouTube, for instance, the U.S. Small Business Administration’s channel (youtube. com/user/sba) features videos and webinars on practical topics such as business plans and SBA loans. And the Google Small Business channel (youtube.com/ user/googlebusiness) delivers a Google AdWords education video series as well as content related to topics like customer loyalty, digital marketing, and work-life balance.

TED Talks (ted.com/talks), meanwhile, boasts an array of thought-provoking programs on motivation, leadership, and transformation that can spark creative ideas and strategies.

Former Google engineer Matt Cutts, for example, makes the spirited case for forming a productive new habit by trying something new over 30 days, while UPS executive Regina Hartley dives into human resources quandaries in her program, “Why the Best Hire Might Not Have the Perfect Résumé.”

HOW TO WRITE BETTER JOB DESCRIPTIONS ENCOURAGE TOP -NOTCH APPLICANTS BY A C C U R AT E LY D E S C R I B I N G T H E P O S I T I O N FOR WHICH YOU’RE HIRING

BY STEPHANIE VOZZA

THE SUCCESS OF your business is often in the hands of your employees.

Two-thirds of U.S. companies have been affected by a bad hire, resulting in lost revenue and productivity, according to the website CareerBuilder.com. Avoid making a mistake by taking the time to write a good job description.

“Job descriptions are the foundation of the hiring process, and they set expectations for new hires,” says Brandi Britton, district president of the staffing firm OfficeTeam, which specializes in placing administrative professionals. “If you fail to accurately describe an open position, you could wind up interviewing applicants who are underqualified because you didn’t provide the right information.”

Accurate and compelling job descriptions attract great talent. Here are seven key components every job description should include.

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A CLEAR JOB TITLE

It’s fun to get creative with job titles. Calling salespeople “customer service ninjas,” for example, might reflect your culture. But if candidates don’t understand the title, they probably won’t continue to read. Instead, use job titles that are searchable and selfexplanatory, and save the original titles for after the hire.

2.

A LIST OF DUTIES

Be thoughtful when creating a list of the duties required for the job, Britton says.

“Summarize the position’s overarching role within the organization and how it relates to jobs and departments in the company,” she says. “Then, describe the day-to-day tasks of the position in order of priority.”

James Matero, owner of Jaymark Jewelers in Cold Spring, N.Y., likes to include downtime tasks. “This way I can make sure anyone who applies isn’t afraid of working their entire shift.”

past successes and industry accolades.

“Attracting a great team means really illustrating your work culture well,” says Slisha Kankariya, cofounder of Four Mine, an online jewelry retailer specializing in engagement rings and wedding bands.

“Show in your job description what the goals of the company are and how this new team member can come into the picture and bring in success with their unique skill set. This is the first step in getting team members motivated and excited about your company vision.”

5.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR ADVANCEMENT

Forty-four percent of people who switch jobs said they accepted their new job because it offered a stronger career path, according to LinkedIn’s 2017 Global Recruiting Trends report. Mention advancement or training opportunities in your description so candidates know there’s room to grow with your company.

3.

6.

Describe your ideal candidate by including the traits, abilities, and experience you seek.

Don’t forget to include the soft skills that help a person succeed in the job, such as working well on a team or creative problem solving, Britton says.

Matero likes to bolster the minimum requirements: “You will always get underqualified applicants, but by increasing the minimums, you will get more that fit the actual requirements.”

Pronouns and adjectives can unintentionally deter or exclude candidates. Action words that promote competition, such as strong and ambitious, have been shown to attract more male applicants, while words that promote inclusiveness, like nurture and concerned, attract more female candidates, according to job search site ZipRecruiter. com. Find a balance by avoiding language that suggests competitiveness or belonging.

Limit your use of adjectives, or make an effort to combine masculine and feminine words in the same ad.

GENDER-NEUTRAL LANGUAGE

QUALIFICATIONS

4.

WHAT YOU OFFER THE CANDIDATE

Let candidates know why your company is a great place to work. Share your mission, vision, and values. Give details on the benefits and advantages you provide your employees.

Describe the culture and the team the candidate would join. And consider including

7.

A CALL TO ACTION

End your job description by telling potential applicants exactly what to do next. Include the email address and/or phone number of the hiring manager and what the candidate can expect from the application process.

HOW TO BOOST EMPLOYEE RETENTION

F I N D I N G G R E AT T E A M M E M B E R S I S O N LY H A L F T H E B AT T L E — H E R E ’ S W H AT Y O U NEED TO DO TO KEEP THEM

BY STEPHANIE VOZZA

FINDING THE RIGHT employees takes a lot of time and resources. The last thing you want to do is accept a twoweek notice from a valued member of the team. One-third of new hires quit their jobs within the first six months, according to the Society for Human Resource Management— making employee retention one of your most crucial tasks.

“Maintaining a loyal and competent staff is an important part of a successful jewelry business,” says Leon Rbibo, cofounder and president of the Pearl Source, an online pearl retailer based in Los Angeles. “Losing employees can be expensive and can really have a negative effect on the bottom line,” adds Rbibo, who is dedicated to recruiting and retaining top-notch talent in an evolving and expanding marketplace.

People are most likely to leave their jobs when they are dissatisfied with a company’s culture, their salary, or advancement opportunities, according to the career website Glassdoor. To avoid the revolving door, create an employee retention program that addresses these concerns and keeps employees happy.

Here are five tips to help make sure your best employees remain with you for years to come.

1.

OFFER OPPORTUNITIES FOR GROWTH

Don’t be too wordy or too brief! Job descriptions with 700 to 1,100 words have a 24 percent increase in the application rate.

(Source: Indeed)

High-performing employees want a chance to advance their careers.

By providing a strong career path at your organization, you’ll have employees who are engaged and productive.

“We make sure that our top performers have room for advancement,” Rbibo says. “This is critical, as many top performers leave for better opportunities. As our company is continuously growing, we make sure that our top performers have the potential to move up the ladder as we continue to expand.”

Give current employees the first chance to apply for new opportunities. Announce openings at meetings or through emails. You can also ask managers to identify team members who might be a good fit. And partner new employees with a mentor who can help them succeed within your company.

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PROVIDE THEM WITH MEANINGFUL WORK

Employees love an opportunity to make a difference as well as to have access to leadership. Let your employees know that the work they do matters. Acknowledge their professional accomplishments such as reaching sales goals or product quotas, and personal milestones like anniversaries, birthdays, and family events. These special touches spark an emotional connection and build loyalty.

“We provide our staff with realtime feedback and make ourselves available to our employees,” Rbibo says. “We are approachable, respectful, and have an open-door policy, which has proven to go a long way to creating loyal employees.”

4.

TAKE TIME HIRING

Hiring the right type of person in the first place can help with employee retention, Rbibo says: “When posting a job, we always have a formal job title and detailed job description outlining daily duties, desired personality traits, and preferred qualifications. Once hired, we provide detailed guidelines and hands-on training so that our employees get off on the right foot.”

5.

TREAT EMPLOYEES WELL

2.

REWARD EMPLOYEES WITH COMPETITIVE PAY

Employees who are engaged and thriving are 59 percent less likely to look for a new job.

(Source: Gallup)

While money isn’t the top reason people change jobs, 35 percent of employees say they’ll look for a new job if they don’t get a raise in the next 12 months, according to Glassdoor. Make sure your salary structure and benefits are competitive and demonstrate that you value employees. If you don’t know where your company ranks, use a website such as PayScale. com to identify industry averages in your location.

Consider your employees to be like partners or family, says Yaf Boye-Flaegel, CEO of Yaf Sparkle boutique in New York City. In her fifth year of business, Boye-Flaegel prides herself on creating a cool shopping experience for customers at both of her locations, and she says that starts with hiring and retaining the right team.

Stores succeed when you happily celebrate outstanding customer service, she adds: “That takes a lot of energy—the type of energy that will come from the heart and the heart only.”

Owners and managers who work closely with their staffs on a daily basis should especially take this to heart. “You spend the majority of your time with them anyway, you trust them with your business— with your life, basically,” says BoyeFlaegel. “If there is no love, there is no reason to be with each other.”

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HOW TO PREVENT THEFT SOME SIMPLE SECURITY PROCEDURES CAN PROTECT YOUR MERCHANDISE AND EMPLOYEES

BY AMANDA BALTAZAR

IN 2013, A thief came, as thieves will, in the dead of night and plundered $10,000 worth of merchandise from William Crow Jewelry in Denver.

This situation was bad, but it could have been much worse. Prior to the break-in, the store had hired a company to apply a film coating to reinforce its windows and glass front door.

“It was pretty simple and not a superexpensive process, but it really saved us,” says owner and president Jon Kaiser.

“When the burglar came, the treatment slowed him down.

He spent a fair amount of time trying to get through the door. Professional burglars have a very tight three- to five-minute window of time, so if you slow them down by a minute or two it can greatly [reduce] the loss.”

Last year, 1,245 crimes against jewelry stores were reported—an increase of 5.8 percent over 2015, according to the New York City–based Jewelers’ Security Alliance (JSA). Dollar losses were up, too, totaling $72.4 million, a 4.5 percent increase over 2015.

How can you prevent a break-in, or mitigate its effect on your business? Follow these guidelines.

1.

PROTECT YOUR STORE’S PERIMETER

Safeguard your exterior, says Hedgie Bartol, business development manager for retail at Axis Communications in Chelmsford, Mass. “Placing cameras outside your store’s perimeter allows investigators to look for the direction the thieves left, possible getaway vehicle, possible lookout accomplices, and other clues,” he says. Other perimeter protections include glass-break detection devices, motion sensors, and alarms.

2.

CHECK CAMERA PLACEMENT AND RESOLUTION

Make sure cameras are positioned and angled to grab the overall environment and important details such as specifics of the jewelry and faces of people (rather than tops of heads). Cameras should be very high-resolution so store owners and police can see everything clearly. Also make sure cameras have plenty of memory.

3.

5.

It sounds obvious, but when showing merchandise to any client, be sure to lock showcases, says JSA president John J. Kennedy.

Also, he cautions, don’t take out more than one item at a time; multiple unsecured pieces “can lead to a large grab-and-run loss.”

Technology can be a game changer when it comes to jewelry store theft. Video verification systems are motion detectors with cameras.

Burglars trigger the camera, which sends a 10-second video clip to a store’s security firm, confirming there’s someone inside the store.

“Police love apprehensions, so if we can say we know someone’s in that space, it can accelerate response time,” Bitton says.

BE AWARE DURING STORE HOURS

4.

CONSIDER BOTH OVERT AND COVERT CAMERAS

BC Clark Jewelers in Oklahoma City recently added eye-level cameras at every exit as well as behind its Rolex showcases. “We want them to be obvious,” says executive vice president Mitchell Clark. “Deterring an incident from happening is the most important thing we can do.”

Covert cameras, however, also have their place, says David Bitton, chief operating officer of Supreme Security Systems in Union, N.J. They can be used to monitor staff, “especially in a spot instance when someone is suspected.” Employees, he adds, can be half of the problem for a jewelry store owner.

Grab-and-run thefts happen far more in malls than elsewhere. In 2016, out of 736 thefts—of which grab-and-runs are a subset—534 occurred in malls.

(Source: Jewelers’ Security Alliance)

INSTALL VIDEO MOTION DETECTORS

6.

COMMUNICATE WITH YOUR INDUSTRY

Jewelry store thieves are often opportunists who drive from state to state, hitting clusters of stores.

So, Bartol says, talk with others in your industry and stay aware.

7.

USE A DOOR BUZZER

In Washington state, Fox’s Seattle installed a buzzer as well as a glass door when the jewelry store moved to its new location. “It’s visible from our entire floor, so it’s easy to see customers approaching,” president Zoey Mann says. “The simple task of needing to get buzzed in is a great deterrent for those looking to make a quick grab of some merchandise.”

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HOW TO DEBUT NEW PRODUCTS IN YOUR STORE YOUR INVENTORY DOESN’T INCLUDE WEARABLES— S O W H AT ? F O L L OW T H E S E G U I D E L I N E S TO F E AT U R E S M A R T J E W E L S , O R A N Y T H I N G N E W, I N Y O U R S T O R E .

BY EMILI VESILIND

HOW MANY PEOPLE are truly in the market for a wedding band made entirely of rubbery silicone?

Jeff Dennis, owner of Jeff Dennis Jewelers in Gardendale, Ala., recently learned the answer to that question—and it’s a definitive “plenty.” Earlier this year, the fine jewelry retailer began stocking QALO (for Quality, Athletics, Love, Outdoors), a unique collection of ultra-detailed silicone wedding bands priced from $11.95 to $24.95. To promote the line, the retailer posted a photo of boxed QALO rings on Instagram and Facebook. The post’s straightforward caption: “QALO bands now in stock!” Within the first 45 days, the store sold 140 units.

The anecdote illustrates one of the central tenets of successfully integrating a new product or product category into your store: Know your audience and what kinds of products might pique their interest. (Dennis certainly did.)

If you’re thinking of branching out with a new category or an off-thebeaten-path product, bear these expert tips in mind.

1.

STUDY YOUR SHOPPER

Before you invest in any new merchandise, make sure you have a good beat on your clientele’s desires and product predilections.

Integrating new collections or categories “is all about the specific product and the market,” says Mary Moses Kinney, director of the Independent Jewelers Organization, which represents QALO. “In the case of QALO, it was an instant response from Jeff’s customers.” What’s the best way to gauge if a product or category will be a good fit? “Simply ask your customers,” says Pamela Scott-Lie, a freelance merchandising and diamond consultant who previously headed up Amazon’s jewelry division. “Run the idea by them— see how they respond.”

2.

ASSESS A PRODUCT’S RELEVANCE

Pinpointing high-interest products is only the first step. With nearly every consumer item imaginable now available online, any new merchandise you introduce should manifest a high degree of social currency and relevance within your community.

Smartwatches, for example, have a ton of social currency; most people would consider them a cool gadget. But if your customers aren’t interested in counting their daily steps—or in showing off how tech-savvy they are by sporting a wearable—sales of even the coolest connected watch will be sluggish.

3.

EMBRACE TRENDS EARLY That said, your chances of successfully introducing a new

product category get exponentially better if you’re first to the table on a cresting trend.

John Carter, owner of Jack Lewis Jewelers in Bloomington, Ill., the first-ever retailer to carry QALO, says taking risks on trends is sometimes the only way to maintain relevance in the marketplace. “The year 2008 taught us our preconceived notions about what it means to be a fine jewelry store should be thrown out the window,” Carter says. “Beads and gold-buying saved a lot of stores during the recession, and no one would have expected that.

You have to be quick to recognize an opportunity and be smart enough to take it.”

4.

MAKE A SPLASH IN-STORE

And when the time comes to actually stock items that diverge from your typical inventory, “don’t crowd a new or different product into a case with a bunch of jewelry and think it will sell itself,” Scott-Lie says. “Really showcase the product.” If a description or explanation is needed, make sure that info is within eyeshot of the actual product, she adds: “If I walk up to a wearable and I have no idea what it is or what it does, I’m going to lose interest right away.”

5.

MARKET WITH PANACHE

Of course, getting the word out through savvy, innovative marketing is essential. Beyond advertising, Carter and Scott-Lie rely on Instagram almost exclusively when marketing online. “Since it’s a primarily visual platform, you can really make meaningful, impactful campaigns,” Carter says. “Instagram wasn’t made for our industry, but it might as well have been.”

6.

Retail experts agree that it usually takes repeated exposure to a new product for a consumer to begin to take an interest in it.

BE YOUR OWN BILLBOARD

Another effective way to promote a new product is for you and your sales staff to demo the item. This technique is particularly helpful for showcasing the high-tech functions of wearable devices. “There’s almost nothing that sells a product faster than actually wearing it,” Scott-Lie says. “Get it on you, get it out into the world. If people like it, they’ll ask you about it.”

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SHELF HELP

By Martha C. White

WHAT’S IN YOUR BRIEFCASE (or on your Kindle)? WE ASKED 10 JEWELRY PROFESSIONALS TO TELL US ABOUT THEIR FAVORITE BUSINESS TITLES.

A

MAZON HAS SOME 300,000 titles on management and leadership in its online bookstore, and more than 100,000 on sales and marketing. That’s far too many for even the most ambitious of us to wade through, so JCK caught up with forward-thinking designers, retailers, marketers, and consultants across the jewelry industry to find out what books they’ve used as stepping stones to further their careers.

A few books stood out right away— notably, The Experience Economy: Work Is Theater & Every Business a Stage. The 1999 tome by B. Joseph Pine II and James H. Gilmore (updated in 2011) was namechecked by multiple professionals for its insights into modern retail. And some people, especially designers and sales experts, embrace books that delve into the long, rich history of the jewelry industry and provide inspiration for creative thinking.

Here are some of the books the industry is reading:

KATE ELLEN Owner, Crown Nine, Oakland, Calif.

RICK MOORE Store director, Bellusso Jewelers, Las Vegas

Van Cleef & Arpels: The Poetry of Time by Michels Serres, Jean-Claude Sabrier, and Sharon Kerman; Elizabeth Taylor: My Love Affair With Jewelry According to Moore, books that deal with jewelry industry history and lore— such as Van Cleef’s The Poetry of Time and Taylor’s My Love Affair With Jewelry—have been valuable tools for him and his salespeople. “I tell the staff to go through each brand and find your favorite piece of history, so they can share a story that they find interesting or captivating,” he says. “[Customers] love stories. And to me, it starts with these books.”

Art and Fear: Observations on the Perils (and Rewards) of Artmaking by David Bayles and Ted Orland Ellen admits the book that has most influenced her career as a jewelry designer and boutique owner is not a typical business book. “My favorite art-slash-creativity book is Art and Fear: Observations on the Perils (and Rewards) of Artmaking,” she says. “I refer to it all the time. The idea that sticks with me the most is that when you begin a creative idea, you have to finish it. This discipline has helped me a ton.”

MEAGHAN FLYNN PETROPOULOS, Co-owner, For Future Reference

Georgia O’Keeffe: Living Modern

by Wanda M. Corn Petropoulos, of the bicoastal jewelry brand development agency For Future Reference, relies on fashion and art history books such as Georgia O’Keeffe: Living Modern.

“The process of jewelry making has evolved but the motivation hasn’t.

It’s the same inclination to want to decorate yourself,” she says. “And I think everything old is always new again, so it’s really helpful to be knowledgeable about past trends—Victorian or midcentury modern, for example—so you can speak about them and how you can modernize the trends.”

89 JENNIFER GANDIA Co-owner, Greenwich St. Jewelers, New York City

MATTHEW ROSENHEIM President, Tiny Jewel Box, Washington, D.C.

The Experience Economy: Work Is Theater & Every Business a Stage

by B. Joseph Pine II and James H. Gilmore “I’m reading The Experience Economy, trying to figure out how to really make a lasting impression with clients and keep brickand-mortar special and viable,” says Rosenheim.

“To make people want to continue to walk in our stores, we have to give them a memorable experience.”

DAVID NYGAARD Co-owner, David Nygaard Fine Jewelers, Virginia Beach, Va.

Nygaard offers another vote for Experience: “Pine and Gilmore are awesome at insight. I’ve been an advocate of The Experience Economy since it was written.”

It provokes the kinds of thoughts retailers today need to keep in mind, he says: “If we couldn’t charge for the products, if we could only charge admission to the store, what would we do differently? Like a museum or a Disney park, you create an experience.”

The Four Agreements: A Practical Guide to Personal Freedom by Don Miguel Ruiz “One of the books that has had an immeasurable impact on my life is The Four Agreements,” says Gandia. “This book gives me four easy-to-remember guidelines for living life with more grace, understanding, and integrity.”

While the book may not sound applicable to a business, Gandia says it absolutely is: “By making an effort to have the most respectful and connected relationships I can, I know it will enrich the experience of everyone in my organization, right down to the client, directly affecting satisfaction and, ultimately, sales.”

The Inevitable: Understanding the 12 Technological Forces That Will Shape Our Future by Kevin Kelly The Singularity Is Near: When Humans Transcend Biology by Ray Kurzweil “I started reading books about technology. These are probably the most important ones,” says O’Neill.

“The Singularity basically talks about artificial intelligence and human intelligence interacting.

You start to understand…how it could potentially change everything we do. These books make me understand how the technology is getting there.”

Start and Run a Profitable Craft Business

by William G. Hynes “A few years ago, I picked up Start and Run a Profitable Craft Business,” says Shapiro. “I’ve never seen anything like it; it was so helpful to have this information specifically for craft businesses.

This book was really the only one I used for my research.” (The newest edition, published in 2005, is called Start & Run a Craft Business.)

MATT PEROSI Founder, Jeweler Website Advisory Group, Totowa, N.J.

SARAH GRAHAM, designer, Sarah Graham Metalsmithing, La Quinta, Calif.

SHANE O’NEILL Vice president, Fruchtman Marketing, Toledo, Ohio

EMILIE SHAPIRO Jewelry designer/author (How to Create Your Own Jewelry Line)

Made to Stick: Why Some Ideas Survive and Others Die by Chip Heath & Dan Heath “What I really love are business magazines like Fast Company because they’re easy to read, but if I think back, probably the book that had the biggest impact is Made to Stick,” says Graham.

“It’s about branding and stories. They talk about building a message and understanding your message. I think this book is the best book for understanding how not to get caught in generalities but then not get bogged down in something too specific.”

Who Cares Wins: Why Good Business Is Better Business by David Jones To Sell Is Human: The Surprising Truth About Moving Others by Daniel H. Pink The Toilet Paper Entrepreneur: The Tell-It-Like-ItIs Guide to Cleaning Up in Business, Even if You Are at the End of Your Roll by Mike Michalowicz For millennial professionals, Perosi picks Who Cares Wins; for Gen Xers or older, he says To Sell Is Human is a valuable resource. He also praises The Toilet Paper Entrepreneur. “The biggest takeaway I remember from this book is his explanation of why it’s important to set goals but then reevaluate your approach to those goals every quarter,” Perosi says. “Trends, technology, and even your own expectations may change every three months.”

A ST ORY T OL D CR E ATE S A DI A MON D S OL D. Every diamond has a story. Telling a compelling one is key to driving sales and creating happy customers. That’s why AGS Laboratories offers Only My Diamond ™, an engaging online tool that brings the unique characteristics of your diamond to life in a visual, easy-to-understand format.

In turn, Only My Diamond ™ gives your customer the ability to share their diamond’s story with family and friends.

Suppliers and retailers: Experience a revolution in selling.

Go online for your free demo—and for information on other valuable services, such as our popular diamond grading report for mounted goods.

Contact support@agslab.com or call 877.FOR.0CUT (877.367.0288) to learn more.

agslab.com/onlymydiamond

91

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

JULY / AUGUST 2017

THE ESSENTIAL JEWELRY GUIDE

THE VAULT CRAFT WORK The bracelet was fabricated in

McKinney’s studio in Australia by several craftspeople—including a senior master craftsman who handmade the gold components. “It moves beautifully, sits so well on the wrist, and is a joy to wear,” says the designer.

LUMINOUS LINKS The 18k yellow gold bracelet’s incandescence comes from 52.98 cts. t.w. Ethiopian opals, 4.66 cts. t.w. diamonds, 21.96 cts. t.w. blue sapphires, 20.66 cts. t.w. peridots, 9.37 cts. t.w. tsavorite garnets, 10.23 cts. t.w. yellow sapphires, 6.45 cts. t.w. orange sapphires, 1.11 cts. t.w. pink sapphires, and 2.06 cts. t.w. pink tourmalines.

OPAL FEVER

DELICATE MATTER McKinney says she envisions the

“THE EXTR AORDINARY OPALS from Ethiopia” were the chief inspiration for this dazzling gem-laden bracelet, says its creator, fine jewelry designer Margot McKinney. The opals, she explains, “have an energy that comes from within and at times look as though they have little twinkling lights inside them.” No batteries required.

$125,000 bracelet appealing to “one of my stylish collectors,” and adds that the most challenging aspect of its fabrication was “being aware that I’m working with this amazing Ethiopian opal that I need to honor sufficiently.”

BY EMILI VESILIND JCKONLINE.COM

THE VAULT

DIAMONDS

MAGAZINE THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

SERVING THE JEWELRY INDUSTRY FOR

148 YEARS

With original, authoritative, and compelling journalism, JCK magazine offers readers expanded coverage of the most important issues and style trends affecting their businesses.

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

CUT LOOSE New York City’s Christopher Designs is famous for its innovative Crisscut diamonds, which feature light-enhancing crisscrossed facets. But the brand’s penchant for precision also extends to its jewelry. The latest collection—a series of intricately fabricated bracelets that stack up beautifully—marries curvaceous, understated 14k white and yellow gold with diamonds.

“I wanted to create a timeless collection that represents the modern-yet-classic woman,” says company founder and designer Christopher Slowinski. Collection standouts include a bamboo-inspired bangle with round diamond accents and a yellow gold bracelet that curves into a loop to lasso a gleaming 0.32 ct. L’Amour Crisscut pear-shape diamond. —EMILI VESILIND

14k yellow gold bracelet with 0.32 ct. L’Amour Crisscut pear-shape diamond; $3,951

14k yellow gold bracelet with 0.57 ct. t.w. round diamonds; $5,800; Christopher Designs; info@ crisscut.com; christopher designs.com

14k white gold bracelet with 0.58 ct. t.w. round diamonds; $5,725

HOT STOCK TIP

NEW DIRECTION In celebration of its 125th anniversary, jewelry brand A. Jaffe has

created an engagement ring that allows wearers to flip their diamond from a north-south setting to an east-west setting, using a simple twist mechanism. The aptly named Pirouette ring accommodates oval-, emerald-, and marquise-cut diamonds—and effectively turns the classic engagement ring on its head. —EV Pirouette semi-mount in platinum; $2,500 (center stone not included); ajaffe.com

U.S. DIAMOND JEWELRY DEMAND UP 4.4%!

SEE jckonline.com/topics/diamonds FOR THAT AND MORE.

JCKONLINE.COM

THE VAULT

SILVER

NEWS DAILY

HOT STOCK TIP Silver, leather, and crystal Sunrise necklace; $310; unode50.com

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

GRAIN SPOTTING

The demand for bohemian-esque silver jewelry that borrows motifs from nature is heating up (could a squash-blossom craze be far behind?). Spanish sterling silver brand Uno de 50 is right on trend with a handful of new pieces inspired by grain—yes, we’re talking buckwheat and barley. The gorgeous Sunrise necklace pairs brown leather with bits of wheat-like silver and luminous green crystals to create an organic-feeling statement piece fit for all four seasons. —EMILI VESILIND

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

CHANNEL FINE

KIR Jewelry is known for its bold, Balinese-inspired silver designs. So the wispy, gently arcing forms at the center of its new collection, Channel, feel like a real departure for the brand—and that’s precisely the point. “Our focus for the collection was breaking away from the traditional KIR look, which

is more organic and bold,” says marketing director Lilly Sinelnik. “These pieces highlight simplicity.” Fluid swooshes of polished sterling silver—channel-set with gems including black spinel, white topaz, blue topaz, and citrine—anchor the collection’s pretty pendants, rings, and earrings. Both subtle and elegant, the design doesn’t have to shout to stand out. —EV

DELIVERING THE INDUSTRY’S TOP STORIES TO THE INBOXES OF

18,500 PROFESSIONALS EVERY DAY.

Original, not aggregated, content.

— Immediate engagement with top decision-makers.

— Sign up for the JCK News Daily newsletter TODAY!

Channel lariat necklace in polished sterling silver with white topaz; $285; KIR Jewelry; jewelry@ kircollection.com; kircollection.com

Channel rings in polished sterling silver with black spinel and white topaz; $145 each

EDGY MEXICAN SILVER SPOTTED AT JIS! SEE jckonline.com/topics/silver FOR THAT AND MORE.

Channel hook earrings in polished sterling silver with black spinel; $275

JCKONLINE.COM

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PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

94

Midas Chain 50 McDermott Place Bergenfield, NJ 07621 Tel: 201-244-1150 Fax: 201-244-1151 Email: sales@midaschain.com Website: midaschain.com The 14k yellow gold railroad-style choker necklace by Midas Chain is extremely unique, with the ability to adjust to your customer’s individual size. This extensive collection comes in a diverse array of designs with cutting-edge styling. MSRP: $465

Belle Étoile 5901 Christie Ave, Suite 501 Emeryville, CA 94608 Tel: 415-626-9223 Fax: 415-373-9484 Email: sales@belleetoilejewelry.com Website: belleetoilejewelry.com

Sophia by Design 457 Haddonfield Road, Suite 420 Cherry Hill, NJ 08002 Tel: 215-629-0260 Email: sales@sophiabydesign.com Website: sophiabydesign.com Sophia by Design has crafted fine jewelry for every occasion for over three decades. Through a dedication to excellence and a passion for style, Sophia by Design has stayed at the forefront of fashion trends.

Beverley K 7777 Alvarado Road, Suite 719 La Mesa, CA 91942 Tel: 619-465-4789 Email: info@beverleyk.com Website: beverleyk.com

Discover Belle Étoile, award-winning designer jewelry brand.

French for “beautiful star,” Belle Étoile offers exquisite design and exciting programs to help drive traffic and increase sales in your store. Call us today to learn more.

Beverley K offers stunning Art Deco, vintage, floral, and band jewelry designs. The brand has received numerous awards and is renowned for its meticulous details, French-cut colored stones, and old-world craftsmanship. Discover Beverley K.

Arpas A.S.

ELLE Time and Jewelry

48 W. 48th St., Suite 505 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-869-5548 Fax: 212-391-0275 Email: info@arpasusa.com Website: arpas.com

18325 Waterview Parkway Dallas, TX 75252 Las Vegas, NV 89117 Tel: 469-221-0866 Fax: 214-637-8676 Email: sales@ellejewelry.com Website: ellejewelry.com

Manufacturer and exporter of fine gold jewelry, gold watches, and silver jewelry.

Production in 8k, 9k, 10k, 14k, 18k, 21k, and 22k gold, gold and silver bonded, sterling silver. Exporting to 70 different countries. RJC member.

JULY / AUGUST 2017

As a licensee of ELLE magazine, the world’s best-selling women’s fashion magazine, we make fashion accessible. Our jewelry enhances a woman’s individuality while featuring our signature created ruby trademark to symbolize a woman’s inner strength and beauty.

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

JULY / AUGUST 2017

THE GLOBAL GUIDE TO MARKETS

SHOW BIZ Comet earrings in 14k gold with amethyst, blue topaz, and diamonds; $8,400; Martha Seely; 617-899-2162; marthaseely.com

NEW YORK STORY

1/ Evermore ring in 18k white and rose gold with 0.3 ct. t.w. diamonds and pavé; $5,100; Anakao Jewellery; 44-203-011-2463; anakao-jewellery.com

From July 23 to 25, LUXURY Privé takes Manhattan

F

2/ Satellite Diamond Vintage ring in platinum with 1.15 cts. t.w. diamonds; $13,995; Andrew Geoghegan; 44-193-758-4654; andrewgeoghegan.com

BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY

RESH FROM A $180 million renovation, the InterContinental New York Barclay hotel is poised to show jewelers a good time come July 23, when LUXURY Privé takes up residence.

The show, formerly located at the nearby Waldorf Astoria, runs through July 25 and coincides with New York City’s jewelry week.

“We are very excited about Privé’s new home!” says Sarin Bachmann, industry vice president at Reed Jewelry Group, the show organizer. “It’s located right across the street from the Waldorf on Lexington Avenue, so we are in the same great neighborhood. It is a truly upscale, elegant environment focused on top-notch customer service, yet with a brand-new updated backdrop befitting LUXURY Privé and all our guests.”

Retailers will find a slew of familiar faces at Privé—Jewels by Star, Mastoloni Pearls, and Oscar Heyman, for example—as well as fresh talents such as Concord, Mass.–based Martha

International Jewellery London, the U.K.’s premier jewelry trade fair, runs Sept. 3–5 at Olympia London.

Here’s a sampling of some pieces set to make their debut.

Seely, who says she’s looking forward to the show’s small-scale format. “I love the intimacy of it—that’s really the appeal,” Seely says, adding that she will be showing new additions to her Shooting Stars collection, including a pair of Comet earrings fashioned from two tusk-like specimens of amethyst and an Earthrise ring set with an Australian boulder opal.

The show will also host emerging designers— including Lost Bird Designs and Julie Lamb—in a new area dedicated to exhibitors who have never before participated in a national trade show.

On opening night, LUXURY Privé’s traditional networking event will return in the InterContinental’s famous Gin Parlour. “The bar serves 88 premium gins in addition to a wide variety of other traditional favorites and is the perfect place for people to unwind, catch up with industry friends, and enjoy a cocktail during New York jewelry week,” Bachmann says.

JCKONLINE.COM

3/ Saturn Drop earrings in 14k rose gold with banded agate and diamonds; $2,365; Astley Clarke; 44-207479-8744; astleyclarke.com 4/ I Can Fly maxi swan feather necklace in sterling silver plated with 18k gold; €179 ($200); 35-31-5554644; chupi.com 5/ Pushpa Floral and Star rings in 18k gold with amethyst and ruby; $4,900– $5,300; Flora Bhattachary; 44-797-7481864; florabhattachary.com

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

96

Rahaminov Diamonds

Royal Chain Group

606 S. Olive St., Suite 2018 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-622-9866 Fax: 213-622-6113 Email: melanie@rahaminov.com Website: rahaminov.com

2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Email: sales@royalchain.com Website: royalchain.com

Our stunningly beautiful, feminine, and one-of-a-kind movál ring accented with white kite-shape diamonds and round white diamond melee set in 18k white gold.

Le Vian Couture®

Royal Chain’s Intuitions collection is made of stainless steel and available in white, yellow, and rose gold finishes. Each bracelet carries a personal message of inspiration, spirituality, or just plain fun. Retail starts at $35.

Gabriel & Co.

Tel: 877-2LEVIAN/516-466-7200 Fax: 516-466-7201 Email: eddielevian@levian.com Website: levian.com

545 W. 45th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-519-1400 Email: mjgonzalez@gabrielny.com Website: gabrielny.com

Le Vian announced Cornflower Ceylon Sapphire™ as the 2018 Gem of the Year. Discover luxurious styles in Le Vian Couture® like this 4.2 ct. center stone ring in 18k Vanilla Gold® accented with 1.49 cts. t.w. Vanilla Diamonds®.

Designed for the modern woman, our stackable rings are made to be worn effortlessly—no matter what day it is or what the future holds.

Express yourself with a one-of-a-kind combination that is uniquely you. (LR51249Y45JJ, LR51247Y45JJ, LR51251Y45JJ)

Stuller Inc. Phillip Gavriel 2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Website: phillipgavriel.com The Popcorn collection features handcrafted pieces in sterling silver, 18k gold, and precious gems. These cuff bracelets are made of sterling silver with 0.11 cts. t.w. diamonds and cushioncut gemstone. Retail starts at $216.

JULY / AUGUST 2017

302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com Buying diamonds from Stuller assures you confidence, integrity, and quality. We strive to be the leading and most trustworthy diamond supplier by screening our entire inventory for undisclosed lab-grown diamonds, applying the newest technology in the industry. Learn more at stuller.com/aboutdiamonds.

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EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES & TECHNOLOGY

TOOL TIME and laptops—perhaps because completing forms is easier on a larger screen. According to analyst Mary Meeker’s latest much-lauded Internet Trends report, in 2016 the conversion rate for mobile was 1.55; on desktops/ laptops, it was 4.14.

WHERE IT’S GOING

UPWARDLY MOBILE

If you want to keep up with Gen Y and Gen Z, make sure your website is responsive

GOOD VIBRATIONS IMAGES/STOCKSY.COM

BY EMILI VESILIND

O

NCE UPON A time, developers created two separate, nearly identical websites for every URL—one for laptops and desktops, and a mobile site that was configured for the miniscule proportions of smartphone screens.

Now, thanks to responsive design, a tool that neatly arranges a site’s many elements (even when the screen is tiny), there’s usually just one iteration, which bends and stretches to fit any screen.

But too many jewelry industry sites are, in fact, unresponsive, and

either don’t load correctly on a mobile device or become chaotic-looking or even unusable. (You can test yours by narrowing your browser window; if the elements on-screen stack up nicely, your site is responsive.)

According to a 2017 report by digital marketing firm Smart Insights, mobile digital media time in the United States is now significantly higher (accounting for 51 percent of users’ total screen time) than time logged on desktops and laptops (42 percent total).

Consumer eyeballs are moving to mobile—and if you aren’t following them, your brand is bound to suffer.

Below, a few tips to help you optimize your mobile mojo.

WHERE IT’S AT Though people are spending more time on devices such as smartphones, when it comes to shopping for jewelry and other merchandise, they might browse but they won’t necessarily buy.

The conversion rate (percentage of prospects that yield a sale) for mobile is still lower than the rate for desktops

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If customers tend not to purchase on their mobile devices, what’s all the fuss about putting mobile first in retailing?

Simply put, 56 percent of online searches in retail originate on a mobile device. And as members of Gen Z (the generation after the millennials) begin to make money, mobile’s conversion rate is expected to skyrocket. So even when you’re not doing much actual business on mobile, it may be making you money as a pure-play search tool.

CHECK YOUR TRAFFIC Even if your site is mobile-responsive— and looks pretty sweet on your new iPhone—you “should definitely be checking your Google analytics page to view how much traffic you’re getting on mobile versus desktop,” says Christie Thompson, marketing maven for Richmond, Va.–based brand development firm Campfire & Co. If your analytics reveal lots of “bounces”—tech talk for when a user spends only a few seconds on your site—“you may have some problems with your mobile site.”

At the very least, “make sure all your contact info is legible and easy to access on a mobile device,” she adds. “Above all, you need to be findable.”

TOOL TIME

THE GOODS

ONLINE.COM WHO, WHAT, WEARABLE

FOSSIL Q ACCOMPLICE

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

The Fossil Group creates wearables for a portfolio of high-profile brands—Tory Burch, Skagen, Michael Kors, and Armani, for example. But its own wearables workshop has been investing in so-called hybrid watches: analog watches with smart insides. Fossil’s latest hybrid watch, the Q Accomplice, fuses classic analog styling with basic wearable features. This looker doesn’t scream “I run marathons!”—it’s on the dressier side. And its elegant case is Fossil’s slimmest one yet for a smartwatch. —EMILI VESILIND

STAY CONNECTED WITH

JCKONLINE.COM. The industry’s go-to online source for breaking news and the consumer-led style trends that shape the jewelry industry.

— JCKonline.com connects the industry influencers who drive the jewelry business forward.

What We Liked: It’s highfunctioning and works easily with both iPhone and Android devices.

The connected features—which include vibration-based text/email notifications, and step and sleep tracking—aren’t revolutionary, but they don’t need to be. The essential bases are covered.

What We Didn’t Like: The Q Accomplice’s unisex sizing will definitely be on the bulky side for some women—but it’s a good look for those who like bigger, boyfriend-style watches.

Best Feature: The watch has a battery built to last six months— great news for users who aren’t type A’s. Additionally, Fossil makes a boatload of different strap styles, giving users the versatility to dress the Q Accomplice up or down. ($175; fossil.com)

SUPPLY IN DEMAND

MINERALAB DELUXE HARDNESS PICKS Picking gemstones to shape and set into

your designs shouldn’t be a decision based on looks alone—not all stones are as tough as they appear. Test the mettle of your gems and minerals with Mineralab’s Deluxe Hardness Picks from Kassoy, a boxed set of four double-ended picks with eight points, all made of alloys equal to 2 through 9 on the Mohs’ hardness scale. “It’s an interesting tool,” says Victor Hugo Garcia, vice president of sales for Kassoy. “The picks are color-coded, difficult to break, and can also be sharpened.” The easy-to-transport kit also includes two glass hardness plates, a 100 grit sharpening stone, a streak plate, a magnet, a 300-mineral hardness table, and instructions on how to use every tool. ($87.95; kassoy.com) —EV

Not just for testing: Lapidaries and carvers will get a kick out of these picks.

SMARTWATCHES FOR GOLFERS! SEE jckonline.com/topics/ technology FOR THAT AND MORE. JCKONLINE.COM

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PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

99

Ovadia Corporation

americas Gold americas Diamonds

101 E. Main St. Little Falls, NJ 07424 Tel: 973-256-9200 Email: sales@ovadia.com Website: ovadia.com

650 S. Hill St., Suite 224 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-688-4904 Fax: 213-688-1504 Email: info@americasgold.com Website: americasgold.com

Ovadia’s lightweight stackable Freedom displays are a unique blend of practicality and luxury, combining versatile Oro-Lite pads with a retail look. Perfect for showcases, travel, and understock. Available in a variety of leather, fabric and lacquered wood finishes to match any décor. Border around pads can be made in custom colors as a highlighting accent. Custom signage available.

Featuring 14k gold baguette diamond amond collection. Fancy diamond bridal ring with double halo and 1 ct. t.w. diamonds, earring studs with 0.80 ct. t.w. diamonds, and diamond pendant with 0.40 ct. t.w. diamonds.

Ashi Diamonds 18 E. 48th St., 14th Floor New York, NY 10017 Tel: 212-319-8291 Fax: 212-319-4341 Email: kalyani@ashidiamonds.com Website: ashidiamonds.com

Shy Creation 650 S. Hill St., Suite 428 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8900 Fax: 213-623-0860 Email: info@shycreation.com Website: shycreation.com

Holiday Wish Book by Ashi.

Ashi Diamonds is thrilled to announce the launch of the 2017 Holiday Wish Book. This year, Ashi has included exclusive jewelry from its Couture line, the newest additions from its Lovebright and I DO Bridal collections, as well as the hottest and latest trends in fashion jewelry. For more info, call 800-622-2744 or visit ashidiamonds.com

Hanging Diamond Double V earrings from Shy Creation.

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PH: 305-871-8774 Fax: 305-871-8786

1-800-326-4256

futuredesigns1@hotmail.com ₔ www.futuredesigns.us

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

100

S. Kashi 175 Great Neck Road, Suite 204 Great Neck, NY 11021 Tel: 800-775-2744 Email: info@skashi.com Website: skashi.com Exquisite designs, top-notch workmanship, and excellent customer service are the foundation of S. Kashi. Discover our world of magnificent jewelry at skashi.com.

AeroDiamonds 10 W. 46th St., 19th Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-616-7665 Fax: 212-616-7666 Email: jacqueline@aerodiamonds.com Website: aerodiamonds.com

Rahaminov Diamonds 606 S. Olive St., Suite 2018 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-622-9866 Fax: 213-622-6113 Email: melanie@rahaminov.com Website: rahaminov.com Rahaminov Diamonds’ timeless and exceptional oval bangle set in 18k white gold.

Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company

S A F E

S E C U R E

24 Jewelers Park Dr. PROTECTING YOUR BUSINESS Neenah, WI 54956 IS OUR BUSINESS. Tel: 800-558-6411 Fax: 920-725-9401 Email: sales@jminsure.com S U C C E S S F U L S U P P O R T I V E Website: jewelersmutual.com

“We love our diamonds…so we set them free!” Befitting today’s modern lifestyle, AeroDiamonds Sweet Sixteen fringe necklace in 18k rose gold and platinum. Made in New York. Designed by Jacqueline Yu Earle.

Price upon request.

Businesses like yours have trusted Jewelers Mutual for support since 1913. Contact us to learn how we can help you become safer, more secure, and more successful.

Stuller Inc.

Rand & Paseka Mfg. Co. Inc.

302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com

10 Hanse Ave. Freeport, NY 11520 Tel: 800-229-0006 Fax: 516-867-0230 Email: sales@randpaseka.com Website: randpaseka.com

Take your custom design business to the next level with Asiga® 3D Printers.

Customers can try on their designs before casting them. And Asiga is renowned for its innovation and precision. Learn more at stuller.com/asiga.

Rand & Paseka has the most extensive line of religious jewelry found anywhere. We manufacture over 18,000 items in gold and sterling silver, all made in the USA. Visit our website or call for more info.

JULY / AUGUST 2017

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Arch Crown Inc. Effy Jewelry 15 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 855-ASK-EFFY Website: effyjewelry.com Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s our favorite arrangement? The Effy Bouquet collection, of course! Perfectly shaped diamonds come together to create the illusion of a solitaire stoneâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;ideal if you love intense sparkle, large-looking stones, and reasonable price points.

Unique Settings of New York 31-00 47th Ave., Second Floor Long Island City, NY 11101 Tel: 718-247-4500 Fax: 718-328-2167 Email: info@uniquesettings.com Website: uniquesettings.com ENR7339: This is an elegant white gold, pear-cut halo engagement ring surrounded by 39 round-cut diamonds.

Center stone not included. MSRP: $2,700

460 Hillside Ave. Hillside, NJ 07205 Tel: 800-526-8353 Fax: 973-731-2228 Email: orders@archcrown.com Website: archcrown.com NEW! Poly-Lam Thermal Transfer Computer Tags. Start tagging your Las Vegas show purchases with Arch Crown computer tags. Poly-Lam material has superior print durability and can withstand ultrasonic cleaning; text and bar code will not rub off. Clear-Tail tags in gold, silver and white.

Artistry Ltd. 8272 N. Lincoln Ave. Skokie, IL 60077 Tel: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Email: getinfo@artistrylimited.com Website: artistrylimited.com Kite-shape pendant in 14k rose gold with 0.14 ct. t.w. diamonds and 5.71 ct. morganite. Cushion-cut ring in 14k rose gold with 0.16 ct. t.w. diamonds and 3.29 ct. morganite. MSRP: necklace, $3,035; ring, $2,050

ADVERTISING

INDEX

102

AGS Laboratories pg. 90 Website: agslab.com AGTA pg. 46 Website: agta.org Toll-Free: 800-972-1162 Alex Velvet pg. 102 Website: alexvelvetusa.com Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Phone: 323-255-6900 American Gem Society pg. 35 Website: ags.org Email: membership@ags.org Toll-Free: 866-805-6500 American Grown Diamonds pg. 25 Website: americangrowndiamonds.com Email: info@americangrowndiamonds.com Phone: 212-575-3057 americas Gold | americas Diamonds pg. 33 Website: americasgold.com Email: info@americasgold.com Toll-Free: 800-621-3618 Angelica by Royal Chain pg. 39 Website: angelicacollection.com Phone: 800-622-0690

Artistry Ltd. pg. 32 Website: artistrylimited.com Email: getinfo@artistrylimited.com Toll-Free: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Ashi Diamonds pg. 15 Website: ashidiamonds.com Email: info@ashidiamonds.com Phone: 212-319-8391 Toll-Free: 800-622-ASHI Atlanta Jewelry Show pg. 48a-48ff (regional insert) Website: atlantajewelryshow.com Email: info@atlantajewelryshow.com Toll-Free: 800-241-0399 Belle Ă&#x2030;toile pg. 55 Website: belleetoilejewelry.com Email: sales@belleetoilejewelry.com Toll-Free: 877-838-6728 Beverley K pg. 17 Website: beverleyk.com Email: info@beverleyk.com Phone: 619-465-4789 Charles & Colvard pg. 52 Website: charlesandcolvard.com Email: sales@charlesandcolvard.com Toll-Free: 800-210-4367

Costar Imports pg. 30 Website: costarimports.com Email: info@costarimports.com Toll-Free: 877-7COSTAR

JIS Show pg. 10-11 Website: jisshow.com Email: info@jisshow.com Toll-Free: 800-840-5612

Rand & Paseka pg. 26 Website: randpaseka.com Email: sales@randpaseka.com Toll-Free: 800-229-0006

Future Designs Lighting pg. 99 Website: futuredesigns.us Email: futuredesigns1@hotmail.com Toll-Free: 800-326-4256

Jubilee Diamond Instrument Limited pg. 38 Website: gemlogis.com Email: enquiry@jubileediamond.com.hk Phone: +852 2351 7888 Fax: +852 2351 7333

RDI Diamonds pg. 80 Website: rdidiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-874-8768

Gabriel & Co. pg. 13 Website: gabrielny.com Phone: 212-519-1400 GIA pg. Inside Back Cover Website: gia.edu Email: marketing@gia.edu Toll-Free: 800-421-7250 Intuitions by Royal Chain pg. 43 Website: intuitionsjewelry.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960 JA New York pg. 42 Website: ja-newyork.com JCK Events pg. 8-9, 49 Website: jckshows.com Toll-Free: 800-257-3626 Jewelers Mutual Insurance pg. 4-5 Website: jewelersmutual.com Toll-Free: 800-558-6411

Fine Jewelry Displays

Le Vian pg. Inside Front Cover, 1 Website: levian.com Email: sales@levian.com Toll-Free: 877-2LEVIAN Martin Flyer pg. 57 Website: martinflyer.com Email: info@martinflyer.com Phone: 212-840-8899 Midas pg. 27 Website: midaschain.com Email: sales@midaschain.com Toll-Free: 877-643-2765 Phillip Gavriel pg. 2-3 Website: phillipgavriel.com Email: info@phillipgavriel.com Phone: 212-382-3340

Royal Chain Group pg. 2-3, 37, 39, 41, 43 Website: royalchain.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960 S. Kashi pg. 21 Website: skashi.com Email: info@skashi.com Toll-Free: 800-775-2744 Salesone LLC pg. 40 Website: salesone.org Email: sales@salesone.org Toll-Free: 866-507-2537 Shy Creation Inc. pg. 23 Website: shycreation.com Toll-Free: 800-606-1749 SRK pg. 6-7 Website: srkexport.com Stuller Inc. pg. 58, Back Cover Website: stuller.com Email: info@stuller.com Toll-Free: 800-877-7777 Fax: 337-981-1655 Umicore pg. 101 Website: umicorepreciousmetals.com Toll-Free: 877-795-5060 Unique Settings of New York pg. 31 Website: uniquesettings.com Email: info@uniquesettings.com Phone: 718-247-4500 Toll-Free: 800-466-4900 Wilkerson pg. 29 Website: wilkersons.com Toll-Free: 800-631-1999 Toll-Free Fax: 800-949-1333

Copyright Š2017 Reed Exhibitions. All Rights Reserved. JCK Vol. 148 No. 5 (1070-0242) is published 7 times a year in January/February, March/April, May, June, July/August, September/October, and November/December for $59.95 by Advance Local LLC d/b/a Headline Studio on behalf of Reed Exhibitions, 383 Main Avenue, Norwalk CT 06851. Reed Business Information is a division of Reed Elsevier, Inc. Circulation records are maintained at (800) 305-7759. Periodicals Postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to JCK, P.O. Box 5663, Harlan, IA 51537. JCK is a registered trademark of Reed Properties Inc., used under license.

Tel: 323.255.6900 Fax: 323.255.6934 ,,,- >Z`e^ Kh\d ;eo]' Los Angeles 90065 info@alexvelvetusa.com

This advertiser index is published as a convenience and not as part of the advertising contract. Every care will be taken to index correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page number, or failure to insert or include information. Please reference page number listed for more information.

CLASSIFIEDS

103

CAREER OPPORTUNITIES

SERVICES TO TRADE

FOR SALE

JEWELERS & SALES REPRESENTATIVES

&XVWRP &RORUHG *HP &XWWLQJ American style precision cutting or gem repairs.

Gems of the Hill Country

(VWDEOLVKHG -HZHOU\ 6WRUH )25 6$/(

The Nation's Largest Restyle Event Company Seeks Experienced Jewelry Sales Representatives and Bench Jewelers who are free to travel and ready for the financial success that working for a great company offers. Salary plus commissions $80K to $120K+. Set schedule; no cold calls. 34 weeks per year travel required, security provided. Benefits include bonuses, 401K and profit-sharing plans, dental, paid health and life insurance, commuting allowance, paid travel expenses and vacation.

Fax resume to 770.499.8974 or email careers@danaaugustineinc.com www.danaaugustineinc.com Heritage Appraisers Inc. is seeking experienced, professional Independent Jewelry Appraisers to work as sub-contractors. Several territories available: Texas, Idaho, Utah, Illinois, Minnesota, and Northern New York. Other territories may come available. Appraiser must have a Graduate Gemologist degree (GIA preferred or FGA International School of Gemology). You must also be a member of a professional, national jewelry appraisal organization (NAJA preferred). If you have a pleasant personality, are well-organized, and have an ability to work independently in a fastpaced environment, contact us today! Some travel required. Please email resume to: llott@heritage-appraisers.com

830-367-3368 gemologist@texas-topaz.com

Denver, Colorado RZQHU FDVK Ă RZ /LVWHG IRU VDOH DW ,QYHQWRU\ Contact: Brian Mueller at 720-242-7870 bmueller@sbadenver.com

CUSTOM MADE MANUFACTURING 3D computer design 3D wax printing O Precious metal casting O O

6WRQH VHWWLQJ DQG Ă&#x20AC;QLVKLQJ Diamond supply O Laser engra O

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Limpid Jewelry at your service since 1979 800-446-0445 www.limpidjewelry.com info@limpidjewelry.com

JEWELRY MODELS For solitaire, engagement, wedding sets, anniversary, 3-stone, eternity rings, and pendants Exclusively made in Los Angeles, USA (213) 479-8019 www.JewelryRubberMolds.com

REPS WANTED INDEPENDENT REPS WANTED 30+ year Direct Manufacturer of high-demand Gold, silver and diamond Jewelry seeking experienced Reps with a following.

Excellent commission.

Must have established customer base.

1RQFRQĂ LFWLQJ OLQHV RND\ Major Trade Show Presence.

Resume to: independantreps@JCKonline.com

SCHOOLS & EDUCATION JEWELRY CLASSES t 8BY .PEFMJOH t $BTUJOH .PME .BLJOH t #FBE 1FBSM 4USJOHJOH t %JBNPOE 4FUUJOH t 3FOEFSJOH %FTJHO t +FXFMSZ 3FQBJS -POH BOE 4IPSU 5FSN $PVSTFT EST. 1979, LICENSED BY NYS ED. DEPT. &BTU 4USFFU 1BSL .BEJTPO /FX :PSL /: $BMM XXX TUVEJPKFXFMFSTMUE DPN

456%*0 +&8&-&34 -5%

INVISIBLE EXPERTS! ESTATE JEWELRY BUYER 5HSODFHPHQWV /WG WKH ZRUOG¡V ODUJHVW UHWDLOHU of vintage and new tableware is actively buying estate jewelry and we are seeking an on-site expert. Minimum of 2 years of related experience in gem/jewelry appraisal. In-depth knowledge of gemstones, diamonds, and estate jewelry required.

In-store and online retail experience preferred.

Compensation based on experience. Send resumes to employment@replacements.com.

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INVISIBLE SET DIAMOND JEWELRY REPAIR â&#x20AC;˘ SIZING â&#x20AC;˘ REPLACE MISSING STONES TIGHTEN LOOSE STONES â&#x20AC;˘ LASER WELDING

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1-877-8-EXPERT 213-624-6026

617 S. OLIVE ST. STE. 201 LOS ANGELES, CA 90014

WATCHES & WATCH WORK ACCUTRON REPAIRS Done by a Certified Accutron Technician 45+ years experience, 99% parts in stock, quick turnover, all work guaranteed, reasonable prices.

Star Jeweler Supplies, Inc. 84 Bowery, NY, NY 10013 212-941-7655 fax: 212-941-8034 starjewelersupply@gmail.com www.starfindings.com

JULY/AUGUST 2017

104

THE WAY WE WORE M E G AWAT TA G E O N A N D O F F T H E S C R E E N

THE REEL DEEL

IN THE MIDST of the Great Depression, ad exec Eugene Joseff moved from Chicago to Hollywood, a place that hadn’t hit hard times.

There, he told his costumer pal Walter Plunkett that the industry was sullying itself by not using historically accurate jewelry. “Well, if you’re so smart, let’s see what you can do,” Plunkett replied, according to Joanne Dubbs Ball’s Jewelry of the Stars. Soon Joseff of Hollywood was

providing the bulk of the costume jewels for such films as Gone With the Wind and Camille. For this 1939 Warner Bros. publicity shot, Bette Davis wore Joseff’s chunky necklace and cuffs. (That year, she starred in The Private Lives of Elizabeth and Essex, which boasted the highest costume budget in Warner’s history.)

Once stars began clamoring for Joseff pieces off the set, a legendary retail business was born. —KRISTIN YOUNG

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EVERETT COLLECTION

Before Tiffany or Cartier ruled the red carpet, a onetime ad exec held the title of Hollywood’s jeweler to the stars—on- and off-screen

From The World’s Foremost Authority in Gemology ™

GIA is the globally recognized source of knowledge, standards, education and analysis for diamonds, colored stones and pearls. Contact us today.

GIA.edu

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Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Not Too Late We have the industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest selection of precious metal bands in stock and ready to personalize.

Learn more about the benefits of Stuller bands at Stuller.com/WeddingBands.

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800 877 7777