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PRESENTING THE WINNERS OF THE 2018 JCK JEWELERS’ CHOICE AWARDS INCLUDING THESE STELLAR GRAND PRIZE–WINNING EARRINGS!
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5 J E W E L S T H AT T O P SHOWGOERS’ JCK SHOPPING LISTS ( H I N T: G O G R E E N )
IT’S A MALL WORLD I N S I D E A M E R I C A’ S MOST SUCCESSFUL SUPERCENTERS: AN ONGOING SERIES
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Design and Photo © 2018 Le Vian Corp. All Rights Reserved. Bracelet: SOAB 42; Ring: VIMK 560
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This unique collection of jewelry opens a whole new category in your store. Each distinctive piece is painstakingly hand-gilded with 22k gold leaf in the US and lets a woman beautifully share her own personal story.
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Th e E x p e r t s i n Going Out of Business. Retiring. Moving.
“I’m Torin Bales, owner of Torin Bales Fine Jewelry. I got into business after high school when I went straight to gemology school. My dad had a jewelry store in Corpus Christi, Texas and after years at Black Starr & Frost, I went back and worked for my father and learned a completely different aspect of the business. I took that knowledge and moved UP 7JDUPSJB 5FYBT BOE PQFOFE NZ mSTU KFXFMSZ store twenty-four years ago. We’ve been a member of the American Gem Society for over twenty years. We’re also members of the Jewelers Alliance and Texas Jewelers Association. We thought about retirement for a long time. After a lot of prayers and talking with my wife, we decided this was the right time to retire.
“At the end of the day, they’re going to maximize your sale and give you the most money that you can walk away with, and that’s what you’ve earned and worked for all your life.” Torin Bales Torin Bales Fine Jewelry Victoria, TX
We were very excited to call Wilkerson & Associates when we made the decision to retire. My father has always had a relationship with Wilkerson. He has run two retirement sales and both were extremely successful. )JT mSTU SFUJSFNFOU TBMF IF XFOU NJMMJPO dollars over their goal and the second retirement sale, he went a million dollars over their goal.
:LONHUVRQ LV D SURIHVVLRQDO MHZHOU\ FRQVXOWDQW ÀUP ZLWK LQGXVWU\ H[SHUWV who come along to help with a transition — whether retiring, going out of business, or moving. :LWK PRUH WKDQ HPSOR\HHV GHGLFDWHG WR D VWRUH·V VXFFHVV :LONHUVRQ LV DQ H[SHUW DW UXQQLQJ VDOHV DQG PD[LPL]LQJ SURÀW
8IFO 3JDL mSTU DBNF UP NF BOE UPME NF UIF BNPVOU of advertising we were going to be spending during UIF TBMF JU XBT TDBSZ *U T B CJH OVNCFS .Z mSTU thought was this is a small market. Do we really need to spend that kind of money in advertising? And Rick was quick to tell me if we want to get to our goal and exceed our goal, we really need to spend that much money in advertising. Looking back on it, I would not have changed a thing we did. Halfway through the sale, we already did a year’s worth of volume and that just blew me away. 5IF mSTU UIJOH * UIJOL B TUPSF PXOFS OFFET UP EP JT when you hire a consultant to come in, especially one as good as Rick and Vicki, is you just have to let them take charge. They’re going to support you with the advertising tools. At the end of the day, they’re going to maximize your sale and give you the most money that you can walk away with, and that’s what you’ve earned and worked for all your life.”
Visit us at
The Plumb Club 370 at JCK
Contact us today for a free consultation! Call Bobby Wilkerson, Rick Hayes or Josh Hayes at 800.631.1999. Or visit us at wilkersons.com.
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DISCOVER IN VEGAS. THEN DESIGN,CREATE,SUBMIT. SAVE THE DATE 2018 Competition Deadlines: Submit Entries: Dallas: June 29, 2018 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; New York Drop Off: July 10, 2018
a place of origin. a supplier. AGTA Members are the ethical resource for all links along the jewelry supply chain – mine to market. Join us at the 2018 AGTA GemFair™- JCK Las Vegas, May 31 – June 4 and at the 2019 AGTA GemFair™ Tucson, Feb. 5 – 10, 2019.
AGTA Office: 800-972-1162 – email@example.com
JCK SHOW & TELL
at JCK Las Vegas
Are yo u rea dy t o vi va La s Veg a s? The t i me i s nea rl y here! To hel p yo u ho ne yo ur check l i st o f m ust - sees, here’s a peek a t fo ur o f t he ho t t est t rends i n t he i ndust r y t o day. You ’ l l ma ke you r own list o f in-demand st y les based on your custome rs’ t a st es, but t hese sho ul d g i ve yo u a hea d st a r t o n a wel l - st o cked st o re fo r t he seco nd ha l f o f 2 0 1 8 a nd beyo nd. We ca n’t wa i t t o see yo u a t JCK La s Veg a s!
With Pantone’s Ultra Violet proving to be a hit in 2018, expect to see every shade of purple, from the lightest lilacs to the deepest, darkest plums. The purple craze extends into rosy hues, too, from Millennial Pinks to punchy magentas. Your best bet is to source products in a wide range of purple tones.
Unique, limited edition, one-and-only. What customer doesn’t want to feel special, to own something that no one else has? Many of our exhibitors offer one-of-a-kind styles, giving you the chance to come away with truly extraordinary pieces for your store.
Wedd Need to up your game in the engagement ring department? In the market for hard-to-find men’s wedding band styles? It’s all at JCK Las Vegas! Whether you’re on the lookout for the classic solitaire and halo styles or you’re hoping to up the ante in the “alternative” sector, you’ll find what you need in our Bridal neighborhood, LUXURY, and more.
Price point jewelry remains a steadfast staple for almost any jewelry store, and there are plenty of places to find it on the show floor of JCK Las Vegas. From interchangeable accessories to the latest in sterling silver, in-demand diamond pendants and stackable gemstone bands, if it’s trending, it’s here.
One buyer badge grants you access to all shows on JCK days. T H U R S D AY, M AY 3 1 M O N D AY, J U N E 4
F R I D AY, J U N E 1 M O N D AY, J U N E 4
O P E N S TO J CK R ETA I L E R S N OW AT M A N DA LAY B AY !
N EW !
L E A R N M O R E A B O U T J C K L A S V E G A S : J C KO N L I N E . C O M / L A S V E G A S FOLLOW @JCKEVENTS
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THE 2018 JCA WINNERS
FEATURES 116 THE ART OF FASHION Watercolor meets colored stones in a painter’s ode to the jewelry wardrobe. ARTWORK BY BRUNO GRIZZO
122 STYLE GUIDE In need of some jewelry inspiration? Look to these four enviably accessorized women. BY EMILI VESILIND
130 THE FAB FIVE
134 144 MAY 2018
Heading to JCK Las Vegas? Consider adding old-school classics, one-of-a-kind estate jewels, and emeralds to your shopping list. BY KRISTIN YOUNG
134 TAKE THE FALL This season, embrace the mishmash of trends, from saturated, splashy colors to magpie miscellany. BY VENESSA LAU
PHOTOGRAPH BY MIKAEL SCHULZ. HORIZON BRACELET IN 14K YELLOW GOLD, $200, MAYA BRENNER, 213-627-2756, MAYABRENNER.COM; HOPSCOTCH 14K YELLOW GOLD NECK BAND WITH 0.5 CT. DIAMOND BEZEL, $3,880, LANE + LANAE, 858-255-1677, LANEANDLANAE.COM; 14K YELLOW GOLD ASCENDING STAR DROP EARRINGS WITH 0.51 CT. T.W. DIAMONDS, $1,320, SHY CREATION, 213-623-8900, SHYCREATION.COM. ARTWORK BY BRUNO GRIZZO. 18K WHITE GOLD PENDANT WITH 1.48 CT. ROUND SAPPHIRE CENTER AND 0.15 CT. T.W. SAPPHIRE AND 0.17 CT. T.W. DIAMOND ACCENTS ON 18K WHITE GOLD CHAIN, $12,400, 18K ROSE GOLD PENDANT WITH 3.15 CT. ROUND PURPLE SPINEL CENTER AND 0.33 CT. T.W. ALEXANDRITE AND 0.22 CT. T.W. DIAMOND ACCENTS ON 18K ROSE GOLD CHAIN, $14,000, OMI PRIVE, 626-331-4533, OMIPRIVE.COM
For the 11th annual Jewelers’ Choice Awards, voters were swept into the celestial orbit of a pair of golden, diamond-dusted shining-star ear drops in what’s now unquestionably the year of the earring.
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122 FEATURES 140 MAKING CENTS OF TAXES The federal tax overhaul is looking promising for jewelers.
BY WHITNEY SIELAFF
142 THE RETURNING POINT
BY DANIEL P. SMITH
MALLS OF AMERICA, PART 1 JCK ’s ongoing series on the shopping centers finding success amid an ever-changing retail landscape. First up: How Somerset Collection became synonymous with Michigan’s ultimate shopping experience. BY KAREN DYBIS
SPECIAL REPORT: PEARLS
173 MAY 2018
173 A deep dive into pricing, availability, and top trends (go for baroque!).
(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) BRIAN BOWEN SMITH/AUGUST; BRIAN POWELL/STOCKSY; KENNETH WILLARDT; SOFIE DELAUW/CULTURA/GETTY; LIAM GOODMAN
Accustomed to generous retail return policies, jewelry store shoppers aren’t afraid to bring merchandise back. Here’s how to craft a friendly return policy without sacrificing your bottom line.
EL AINE & TRAVIS HAVE BEEN TOGETHER FOR FIVE YEARS. HER DIAMOND IS MORE THAN TWO BILLION YEARS OLD.
75 DEPARTMENTS 38
JEWEL BOX 5 things rocking the industry
40 42 44 46 56 58 60 63
FROM THE EDITOR STAFF PICKS FROM THE PUBLISHER CONTRIBUTORS JCK INSIDER JCKONLINE SOCIAL DIARY NEWS GEMS
Notes on the Nirav Modi scandal GEM PRICING REPORT
THE CALENDAR Industry shows, April 30–June 4, 2018
SHOP TALK INNOVATIVE RETAILER Bloom by Anuschka in Denver RETAIL THERAPY What jewelry trends are you investing in? CAUSES TO CELEBRATE STORE WE ADORE No. 3 in San Francisco
95 THE LOOK 96 RED CARPET 106 DESIGNER SHOWCASE Lele Sadoughi 112 JCK ASKS... Christopher Slowinski
201 202 204 206 211
THE VAULT BRIDAL COLORED STONES DIAMONDS
SHOW BIZ Loving LUXURY at Las Vegas. Plus: wrapping up March’s Hong Kong show.
215 TOOL TIME Reusing social content. Plus: Stuller’s Orion 150s and more.
232 THE WAY WE WORE The ultraglam Veruschka MAY 2018
(FROM TOP) MATT NAGER; DAVID FENTON; LUMINA/STOCKSY; COURTESY OF TIFFANY & CO.
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40-inch shaker necklace with 1.85 cts. t.w. diamonds in 14k rose gold; $4,300; Shy Creation
STAR BRIGHT Presenting the winners of the 11th annual JCK Jewelers’ Choice Awards, including our grand prize–winner, Shy Creation’s celestial-themed gold and diamond earrings.
Infinity six-row curved ring in 18k gold with pavé diamonds; $5,870; Paige Novick; 212-252-1441; paigenovick.com
Trikon baguette earrings in 18k rose gold with 1.51 cts. t.w. diamonds; $6,600; Vivaan; 212-302-0402; vivaan.us
Pavé diamond 14k gold Skimmer ring; $2,180; Smith + Mara; info@smith andmara.com; smithandmara.com 14k gold ascending star drop earrings with 0.51 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,320; Shy Creation; 213-623-8900; shycreation.com
FASHION GLOW Our annual style homage to all the jewels fit to print, from the runway to the red carpet.
COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIKAEL SCHULZ Hair: Jerome Cultrera using Oribe for L’Atelier NYC / Makeup: Kajsa Svanberg using Chanel for Art Department / Stylist: Jessica Willis Manicurist: Roseann Singleton using Chanel for Art Department / Model: Cai Lee at Wilhelmina COVER ARTWORK & STYLING BY BRUNO GRIZZO Photography by Liam Goodman MAY 2018
THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY
5 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY
JEWEL BOX 2
MAJORS Signet, America’s largest retail jeweler, is slimming down. Like many retailers, the owner of Kay Jewelers, Jared the Galleria of Jewelry, and Zales has taken a hard look at its mostly mall-bound lineup and decided it needs culling. On March 14, Signet announced plans to close 200 stores over the coming fiscal year. But it also plans to open 35 to 40 new ones, primarily in offmall locations. Regardless of how many stores it shuts, the company will undoubtedly be left with an impressive fleet: It currently claims 3,600 locations, including 3,000 in the United States.
WATCHES It’s safe to say Baselworld is in crisis. The watch and jewelry fair, which concluded a shortened sixday run in late March, lost half of the 1,300 exhibitors who showed in 2017, after companies fed up with sky-high costs abandoned the event in droves. Among the brands that remained, tried-andtrue models such as dive watches, chronographs, and GMTs prevailed. Aesthetically, chocolate brown emerged as the color du jour—not counting blue, which is still the preferred hue for dials— while the industry continued to indulge its ongoing obsession with vintage styling from the 1960s and ’70s. Despite the wellreceived introductions, however, the No. 1 topic of conversation was the future of the fair. During a press breakfast, Breitling CEO Georges Kern was blunt when a journalist asked whether the brand needed Basel anymore. “No,” he answered, “for sure not.”
Marine 5517 selfwinding watch in 40 mm 18k white gold case with blue dial on a rubber strap; $28,700; Breguet; 866-458-7488; breguet.com JCKONLINE.COM
SHOWS Hilltribal bangle in woven sterling silver; 14,500 baht ($464); Lanna Silver; lannasilvercm@ gmail.com; lanna silvercm.com
“Though she be but little, she is fierce”: So said Shakespeare in A Midsummer Night’s Dream—a quote that could easily apply to the small but nonetheless mighty Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair. The 61st edition, which ran Feb. 21–25 at the Impact Muang Thong Thani convention center, hosted 853 exhibitors—tiny by Vegas or Hong Kong standards. But the show generated an impressive $63.6 million in trade value—up 2.5 percent from the September 2017 fair. “We sold out everything,” said Pakoan Sojintarit, general manager at Lanna Silver, whose intricate woven designs were standouts among the nearly 90 silver vendors. Also an undeniable draw: gemstones (especially rubies and emeralds), which accounted for more than a third of the total exhibitor count. The 62nd BGJF is set for Sept. 7–11.
ZALES: ROSAIRENEBETANCOURT 12/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
DESIGNERS The tragic school shooting at Marjory Stoneman Douglas High School in Parkland, Fla., inspired New York City–based jewelry designer Jennifer Fisher to create a capsule collection that supports legislation for stricter gun control. All proceeds from her Stop collection go to Everytown for Gun Safety, a group that strives to end gun violence in the United States. “My children were watching the news, and we were having to discuss what happened in Parkland,” says Fisher (pictured). “As a parent, it’s very scary and something that hits very close to home. I felt the need to do something.” All four pieces, priced $250 to $900, feature octagonal plaques—wordless Stop signs that relay a clear message: Enough is enough.
Black Panther claw ring in sterling silver; $80; Douriean; wholesale@ douriean.com; douriean.com
MOVIES Medium Stop charm in 14k rose gold; $900; jenniferfisher jewelry.com
Black Panther, the Marvel comic–turned–blockbuster movie, has propelled Los Angeles–based jewelry designer Douriean Fletcher into the spotlight. Fletcher worked under costume designer Ruth E. Carter and created many of the Africaninspired jewels worn by the residents of fictional Wakanda, who sport kimoyo beads and mine vibranium, a precious ore that gives King T’Challa his superpowers. Among Fletcher’s favorite pieces are the tribal-themed armor elements for the all-female Dora Milaje army that, she says, “communicated pride, royalty, poise, femininity, and a demand for respect.” MAY 2018
FROM THE EDITOR
Bracelet in 18k yellow gold with 0.91 ct. t.w. diamonds; $9,460; Jye’s International; 866-633-8880; jyescorp.com
Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief firstname.lastname@example.org MAY 2018
“JEWELRY IS THE most transformative thing you can have in your wardrobe,” the nonagenarian fashion maven famously told Racked in a 2014 interview. “If you have simple clothes, you can change the whole look of your outfit with just one piece.” Apfel’s conviction that jewelry has the power to communicate the essence of a person’s style has made her something of a prophet in our industry, where her pearls of jewelry wisdom are oft repeated (for a refresher, don’t miss her spring 2018 book, Iris Apfel: Accidental Icon). But it’s her unabashed embrace of eccentric, oversize accessories that has made her a style icon for the ages. Meet Apfel’s kindred spirits in “Style Guide” (page 122), senior editor Emili Vesilind’s engaging series of profiles of four remarkable and remarkably accessorized celebrities— Beyoncé, Man Repeller’s Leandra Medine, Sarah Jessica Parker, and Tracee Ellis Ross—who prove that crafting a personal jewelry style that others admire and seek to emulate boils down to one thing: authenticity. In other words, own your personal vision—whether it’s big and loud, or quiet and dainty—and stay true to it. That even applies to the fictional fashionistas who grace our first illustrated feature, “The Art of Fashion” (page 116), an utterly original and gorgeously rendered painter’s ode to jewelry as fashion, expertly produced by jewelry editor Rima Suqi and illustrated by the immensely talented Bruno Grizzo. Less fanciful but just as compelling is “Take the Fall” on page 134, our annual feature on fall fashion trends and the jewels that complement them by contributor Venessa Lau, whose
timely insights into catwalk culture are rife with wit and prescience. Couple Lau’s piece with “The Fab Five” (page 130) by Kristin Young, a cheat sheet to the quintet of trends that buyers heading to JCK Las Vegas have singled out as 2018 must-haves, and you’ll be up to speed on what to look for when you hit the Mandalay Bay Convention Center at the end of this month for LUXURY and the JCK show, the two mustattend events on the market week calendar. Next, we segue into business territory with a trio of pieces intended to give you best-inclass information on everything from the tax overhaul (see “Making Cents of Taxes” on page 140 by contributor Whitney Sielaff ), to return policies (see “The Returning Point” on page 142 by Danny Smith), to the outlook for malls (see Karen Dybis’ profile of metro Detroit’s Somerset Collection on page 144, part one of a new series we’ve dubbed “Malls of America,” which analyzes the country’s most successful shopping centers). Last but certainly not least, we present the winners of JCK’s 2018 Jewelers’ Choice Awards in all their gem-set glory (page 146). Congratulations to Los Angeles’ Shy Creation for nabbing the grand prize—again. Between last year’s winning starburst ring and this year’s ascending star earrings, we’re over the moon about how the company’s pieces look on our covers. (P.S. This issue sees the debut of a new Shop Talk column, Causes to Celebrate, on page 80, where we’ll highlight the jewelry industry’s best charitable efforts. Don’t hesitate to email me suggestions for future issues!) JCKONLINE.COM
PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; HAIR AND MAKEUP: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES
ake it from Iris Apfel.
THE MARK OF INDULGENCE When only the finest in fashion forward jewelry will do, discover the mark of sheer indulgence – E.L. Design. Each piece is skillfully made in the U.S. for flawless design and lasting perfection. Stylish, sophisticated, universally appealing, our creations are undeniably desirable. To discover this new way to increase your sales, call us today to become a brand partner at 800.828.1122 or visit us at edlevinjewelry.com.
See us at JCK Luxury Las Vegas • Booth #2007 • Oceanside Ballroom
E.L. Designs ED LEVIN STUDIO
THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY
OUR FAVORITE THINGS
STAFF PICKS 2
Truth pendant in 14k yellow gold with onyx inlay, 0.15 ct. t.w. white diamonds, and 0.36 ct. t.w. baguette-cut emeralds; $4,275; Retrouvaí; 646-7456831; retrouvai.com
Axl earrings in 18k yellow gold with black rhodium silver, green quartz, and black onyx; $7,500; Sorellina New York; 646-7456831; sorellina newyork.com
Bard earrings in 18k gold with 5.58 cts. t.w. rose-cut emeralds, 2.48 cts. t.w. black diamonds, and 1.6 cts. t.w. white diamonds; $13,552; Yael Designs; 415-989-9235; yaeldesigns.com
GREEN & BLACKOUT What JCK magazine’s EMILI VESILIND is loving this month
14k Honey Gold ring with 0.5 ct. t.w. Forest Green Tsavorites and 0.16 ct. t.w. Vanilla Diamonds; $995; Le Vian; 877-2538426; levian.com
“Green and black is a classic combo, but I love how brands are using it to imbue modernlooking designs with some retro cool.”—Emili Vesilind, JCK senior editor JCKONLINE.COM
5 Defne pavé ring in 14k rose gold with 0.3 ct. t.w. black diamonds and a 0.2 ct. marquise-cut emerald; $875; Selin Kent; sales@ selinkent.com; selinkent.com
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FROM THE PUBLISHER
A picturesque view of Basel and the river Rhine
Mark Smelzer Publisher email@example.com MAY 2018
GREETINGS FROM MY flight home from this year’s edition of Baselworld, the über-upscale Swiss trade fair focused on the world’s top watch and jewelry brands. It’s no secret that there’s been significant change at the show, with a big decline in exhibitors. The question is why. While I’m not in a position to know the entire backstory, I do think there may be a cautionary tale about “old” versus “new” luxury here. Historically, exclusivity and an air of superiority have characterized the very upper end of the luxury spectrum. While that can lead to success, it also carries the risk of generating resentment and alienation. On the other hand, it’s been wonderful to watch the American definition of luxurious move further and further away from cold and exclusive to warm and inclusive, and from uptight to more relaxed and real. Hotels, restaurants, clubs, and stores have come to realize that being snooty makes one unlikable. As the younger generation becomes less interested in things that exclude and more interested in things that are experiential
and artisanal, we’ll all be wise to offer stores, attitudes, and products that reflect this. Although Baselworld did not give me the opportunity to see everyone in the biz as in years past, it was still a delight to walk the show and see old friends. And the watches and jewelry are as beautiful and stunning as ever. Talk about artisanal! It will be interesting to watch the future of Baselworld and hear the industry discussions about it. I, for one, am rooting for the show, as I absolutely love the week in charming Basel and all that it brings. Next up is the American Gem Society Conclave in Nashville. This year’s edition is being organized by one of our industry’s most dynamic millennials, Alexis Padis of San Francisco’s Padis Jewelry. I have a feeling it’s going to be a breath of fresh air and a glimpse of the new outlook we should all embrace. I hope to see you there, and look forward to seeing you at JCK Las Vegas in late May! Enjoy this spectacular May issue of JCK, featuring the winners of the 2018 JCK Jewelers’ Choice Awards. Congrats to all! JCKONLINE.COM
PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; GROOMING: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES; BASEL: SWITZERLAND TOURISM/ANDREAS GERTH
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• Extensive Print/Digital Marketing Package
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KIM INTERNATIONAL 800-275-5555 • www.kimint.com • firstname.lastname@example.org JCK Booth B60013
CONTRIBUTORS KAREN DYBIS
In this issue: She kicked off our retail
series “Malls of America” (page 144) at Michigan’s Somerset Collection. Where you’ve seen her work: The Hollywood Reporter, U.S. News & World Report, The Detroit News, and nonfiction history books including Better Made in Michigan, The Witch of Delray, and the just-released Secret Detroit.
In this issue: He brought his signature
fluid style and sartorial skill to the illustrated portfolio “The Art of Fashion” (page 116). Where you’ve seen his work: Town & Country, Harper’s Bazaar, L’Officiel Japan, Surface, S Magazine; campaigns for Tiffany & Co., Kate Spade, Coach, Saks Fifth Avenue, Estnation, LVMH, Hennessy, and Hankyu Japan.
In this issue: In “Fantastic Faux” (page
106), she profiled costume jewelry revolutionary and earring evangelist Lele Sadoughi, whose colorful statement pieces are taking the industry by floral storm. Where you’ve seen her work: On the theater beat at websites including Broadway.com and Broadway Direct.
MIKAEL SCHULZ PHOTOGRAPHER
In this issue: He captured celestial
beauty Cai Lee in the Jewelers’ Choice Award–winning earrings on the cover and winners’ feature (page 146). Where you’ve seen his work: Covers and pages of international editions of Elle, Allure, Harper’s Bazaar, Marie Claire, and Vogue; advertising for H&M, Herve Leger, BCBG, Wella, and more.
JEWELRY EDITOR In this issue: She picked the delicate gold and diamond jewels to accent the grand prize–winning earrings on the cover, TOC, and JCA winners feature, plus the pieces that Bruno Grizzo incorporated into his artwork. Where you’ve seen her work: Style and design articles in WSJ. Magazine, Departures, Elle Decor, and “How to Spend It”/The Financial Times.
MATT VILLANO WRITER
In this issue: He visited our Store We Adore, No. 3 (page 82), a small but bewitching boutique in San Francisco’s Russian Hill. Where you’ve seen his work: CNN Travel, The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, Afar, Sunset, National Geographic Traveler, Travel + Leisure, and Entrepreneur.
DYBIS: JOHN F. MARTIN PHOTOGRAPHY INC.; GRIZZO: RUONAN YAN; SUQI: DAVID BELUSIC
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In The Fine Jew
Friday, June 1 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Monday, June 4, 2018 Mandalay Bay Resort & Casino, Las Vegas R E G I S T E R T O D AY AT J C K L A S V E G A S . C O M FOLLOW
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Senior Vice President / Reed Jewelry Group (JCK, LUXURY, JIS) YANCY WEINRICH 203-840-5481 firstname.lastname@example.org I N T E R N AT I O N A L A D V E R T I S I N G BRAZIL/EUROPE/MIDDLE EAST MIREK KRACZKOWSKI Ul. Skierniewicka 14 / 108, 01-230 Warsaw, Poland 48-22-401-70-01, fax 48-22-401-70-16 cell 48-600-344-881 email@example.com INDIA KAUSHAL SHAH 1A – 1101, Lodha Bellissimo, Apollo Mills Compound, Off N.M. Joshi Marg, Mahalaxmi, Mumbai – 400011 Maharashtra, India 91-22-2305-9305 cell 91-98-2171-5431 firstname.lastname@example.org
ISRAEL ITZCHAK ARIKHA P.O. Box 3237, Ramat Gan 52131, Israel 972-3-751-2165/6, fax 972-3-575-2201 email@example.com THAILAND BUSABA THAWEEPHOON Reed Tradex Co. 32nd Floor, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, 100/68-69 N. Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok, 10500, Thailand 66-2-686-7374, fax 66-2-686-7288 cell +66 96 725 1525 firstname.lastname@example.org
CHINA/HONG KONG/INDONESIA/ JAPAN/KOREA/MALAYSIA/ PHILIPPINES/SINGAPORE/ TAIWAN/VIETNAM QUENTIN CHAN Leading Media Ltd., Room B, 16/F 8 Hart Ave., Tsimshatsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 852-2366-1106, fax 852-2366-1107 cell 852-9438-9577 email@example.com
JCK LAS VEGAS & JCK TUCSON Industry Vice President KATIE DOMINESEY 203-840-5470 firstname.lastname@example.org Group Marketing Director LAUREN LARAMORE 203-840-5958 email@example.com
Account Executive LARS PARKER-MYERS Renewals & Sponsorships: Clockwork, Essentials & Tech, Security, Retail Experience, Gallery, Bridge, Sterling, First Look (M–Z), Vicenza 203-840-5808 firstname.lastname@example.org Account Executive ANA CROSBY Renewals & Sponsorships: Currents, Diamond Plaza, Lab-Grown Diamond, Bridal, Key Accounts, First Look (A–L) 203-840-5305 email@example.com
Special Events and Conference Director KATE NELLIS 203-840-5675 firstname.lastname@example.org Account Executive ALEXANDRA WURSTER International Companies & Pavilions (New & Returning); JCK Tucson (Tucson Ballroom) 203-840-5332 email@example.com
Sales Executive DANA KARP New Companies (A–L), Security; JCK magazine 203-840-5687 firstname.lastname@example.org
Sales Executive BARBARA MURRAY New Companies (M–Z), Retail Experience 203-840-5305 email@example.com Account Executive NINA MANCINI Design Center, Bridge (Renewals); JCK Tucson (Arizona Ballroom) 203-840-5469 firstname.lastname@example.org Retailer Account Manager ISABEL CAJULIS 203-840-5950 email@example.com Senior Marketing Manager CHADAÉ BOWLER 203-840-5845 firstname.lastname@example.org
L U X U R Y & S W I S S W AT C H E V E N T S Industry Vice President SARIN BACHMANN 203-840-5651 email@example.com Group Marketing Director LAUREN LARAMORE 203-840-5958 firstname.lastname@example.org
Marketing Manager MOLLY FITZPATRICK 203-840-5379 email@example.com
Special Events and Conference Director KATE NELLIS 203-840-5675 firstname.lastname@example.org
Account Executive JESSICA GOLDKOPF AUDET LUXURY 203-840-5955 email@example.com
Account Executive NINA MANCINI Design @ LUXURY 203-840-5469 firstname.lastname@example.org Retailer Account Manager HANNAH CONNORTON 203-840-5492 email@example.com
THIS IS NOT A BROWN DIAMOND This is a fancy, deep, rich, brown diamond with moderate orange accents. THE AGS LABORATORIES® COLORED DIAMOND DOCUMENT Introducing a new, insanely easy way to talk to your customer about fancy brown diamonds, giving them more options and helping you close more sales. Learn more at www.agslab.com/browndiamonds or visit us at JCK Booth L103.
8917 W. Sahara Avenue Las Vegas, NV 89117 • Phone: 702.233.6120 • Fax: 702.233.6125 • Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE
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DID YOU KNOW?
The gilded windows at the Mirage get their signature glow from an actual gold compound. JCK LAS VEGAS runs June 1–4.
TO LEARN MORE, VISIT lasvegas.jckonline.com
Stainless Steel Jewelry for Men email@example.com | www.arzsteel.com Looking for Sales Reps & Distribution
WINNER WINNER Heading to LUXURY at JCK? Don’t miss the annual breakfast on Thursday, May 31 (South Seas Ballroom, level 3, 8:30 a.m.)—open to all LUXURY attendees and exhibitors—and your chance to congratulate the winners of the first-ever LUXURY Design Awards. They’ll receive, among other prizes, a trunk show at one of six top U.S. jewelry retailers.
To combat the frigid temps, JCK contributing editor Brittany Siminitz has rounded up a handful of rings—like Parade Design’s, above, and Erica Courtney’s, top—that will get you in the seasonal spirit: sunny yellows, pretty purples, brilliant blues, and more. Visit jckinsider.com. SEE WHAT’S HAPPENING ON THE SHOW FLOOR! FOLLOW @jckevents ON INSTAGRAM.
THE MIRAGE: ANDREW ZARIVNY/SHUTTERSTOCK
JCK LAS VEGAS BOOTH # B11155
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SHWHU#YLEKRUJHPV FRP ZZZ YLEKRUJHPV FRP
CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE
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INSTAGEM FAVORITE FEED OF THE MONTH Not every Instagram feed can be called both dazzling and delicious. But that’s the beauty of Hemmerle (@hemmerle), the 125-year-old German jewelry house renowned for its painstakingly crafted bespoke pieces made from materials both humble and highbrow.
Centurion Scottsdale Luxury by JCK JCK Las Vegas JA New York Select Shows Centurion South Beach Celebrating 35 Years
Call for a catalog 888.674.3250 www.artistrylimited.com
Bronze, brass, and iron combine with white gold and diamonds in these sunflower-style studs.
Eat your veggies! The pepper brooch is made of copper, silver, white gold, and demantoid garnets.
Rhodolites and emeralds shine in these colorful copper–and–white gold drop earrings.
This bangle—with brown diamonds, copper, and white gold—is crafted from olive wood.
A juicy pomegranate, with rubellites, diamonds, copper, gold, and silver, from the Nature’s Jewels collection
Copper plays a starring role in these openwork earrings with spessartite garnets and orange sapphires.
“My father always said, ‘The sweetness of a good price is long forgotten with the bitterness of poor quality!’ ” —JCKonline reader Troy Lob on “Internet Debates Whether a $25 Engagement Ring Is Okay” JCKONLINE.COM
For its 100th anniversary, Citizen commissioned Japanese artist Tsuyoshi Tane to create a booth installation featuring 100,000 main plates that shimmered in the light.
The 2018 edition of Baselworld, held in late March, was a leaner, meaner affair than in past years, but watchmakers still brought plenty of heat
The fair hosted 650 exhibitors, down from 1,300 in 2017. But the crowds in Hall 1, home to the major watch brands, remained as impressive as ever.
Soccer player Luís Figo, Jacob & Co.’s Jacob Arabo, and a bevy of models unveil the limited-edition Epic X Chrono Luis Figo wristwatch.
4 Chopard copresident KarlFriedrich Scheufele and his wife, Christine (l.), flank Swiss Federal Councillor Doris Leuthard.
5 The official ribboncutting ceremony on March 21, opening day MAY 2018
LVMH Watch Division president Jean-Claude Biver, Olympic gold medalist Usain Bolt, and Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe JCKONLINE.COM
COURTESY OF BASELWORLD
Bulgari’s Guido Terreni and Jean-Christophe Babin with Italian TV personality Giorgia Surina and actresses Laura Harrier and Shu Qi
THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY
NEWS JEWELERS CAN USE
NEWS GEMS NOTES ON A SCANDAL Investigation of Indian diamantaires reverberates across America BY ROB BATES
MODI: STEPHANE CARDINALE/CORBIS/VIA GETTY
Nirav Modi’s emerald Waterfall necklace, which was worn in an ad campaign by actress Priyanka Chopra
Jewelry designer/ diamantaire/retailer Nirav Modi
HE HEADLINE-MAKING banking scandal involving two Indian diamond billionaires—Nirav Modi and his uncle Mehul Choksi—has already had ramifications for the U.S. jewelry industry. In February, India’s Central Bureau of Investigation charged Modi and Choksi with receiving $45 million in fraudulent loans from state-owned Punjab National Bank. The amount said to be involved has since ballooned to $1.8 billion. Both Modi and Choksi have professed their innocence.
Modi owns three jewelry companies in the United States: A. Jaffe, Firestar Diamond, and Fantasy Inc. On Feb. 26, those three companies filed for Chapter 11 protection in U.S. bankruptcy court in New York, citing the disruptions to their supply chain and back-office operations caused by the investigations of Modi. In a first-day declaration, the companies said they were hoping to “effectuate a sale or other transaction.” They also issued statements to JCK saying they remain committed to serving their customers.
NEWS GEMS EM M
Pirouette rings with diamonds that flip from north-south to east-west settings, by A. Jaffe
In addition to the jewelry brands, Modi owns a retail chain that bears his name, with stores in New York City, Las Vegas, and Honolulu. Those stores’ spokespeople did not answer inquiries for comment. Choksi, meanwhile, is the chairman of Gitanjali Gems, which has also been charged by the CBI. A publicly held company, Gitanjali is best known in the U.S. for owning Samuels Jewelers, the chain that controls 108 jewelry stores in 22 states. Soon after the news broke, Samuels CEO Farhad Wadia told JCK that Samuels was doing “business as usual”: “We are going to come out of this. We have many vendors that are great partners and are standing by us.” Both Modi and Choksi are said to have left India. At press time, their whereabouts were unknown. Modi’s disappearance has inspired the hashtag #FindingNiMo.
“I never saw why men didn’t wear engagement rings. Cherry made it for me herself out of silver clay. I really like it.”
Number of watches Apple is estimated to have sold in its last quarter of 2017, according to industry researcher Canalys. (Apple does not break out watch figures.) That’s more than the entire Swiss watch industry exported in the same quarter.
SHEERAN: DOMINIQUE CHARRIAU/WIREIMAGE
—Singer-songwriter Ed Sheeran, on his man-gagement ring from fiancée Cherry Seaborn
INDUSSTRY&P INDUSTRY&PEOPLE TRY&PE EOPL OPLE E
COMINGS AND GOINGS
Nvard J. Sununu Danhov has named Nvard J. Sununu director of marketing
and communications. Blue Nile has appointed Bill Koefoed chief financial
officer. Most recently he served as partner and CFO for BCG Digital Ventures, a corporate investment and incubation firm.
Canfield Day/ Night 38 mm watch with midnight-blue mother-of-pearl dial in stainless steel; $800; Shinola; 888-304-2534; shinola.com
Movado Group has appointed Behzad Soltani its new chief Bill Koefoed Christopher Designs has appointed Margaret Becker
vice president of sales. She has been with the New York Cityâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; based jewelry brand 14 years.
digital officer. He previously worked at Boxed and Keurig. In addition, Michelle BarnaStern has been named vice president of social media. She most recently served as VP of social marketing at 360i, a digital marketing agency.
Katherine RosenbergPineau and Jaime Polk have
Shannon Washburn has
been named the president of Shinola, succeeding watch brand veteran Jacques Panis. Luca + Danni has appointed Pam Lipsky national sales
manager. She previously served as Southeast regional sales manager for Pandora.
Rosenberg-Pineau and Polk
created a new consulting company called 21C Jewelry Solutions. Rosenberg-Pineau previously served as head of design and manufacturing for Hearts On Fire and Leo Schachter. Polk most recently was vice president of sales for Frederick Goldman. JCKONLINE.COM
of gunshot wounds sustained during a home invasion on the morning of March 2. At press time, it was not known if the incident was related to his work in the jewelry business.
HONORED Ellen Junger Helzberg Diamonds has appointed a new chief marketing officer, Ellen Junger, and named a new ad agency of record, Carmichael Lynch. Junger previously worked for Payless ShoeSource.
ASSOCIATIONS The Civil Society Coalition of the Kimberley Process
announced that the Zimbabwe Environmental Law Association will now
head the umbrella group. It is the first African group to head the coalition.
Morris Adwar Morris Adwar, the founder of ALA Casting, Alarama Jewelry, and Overnight Mountings, died Feb. 15 in Lawrence, N.Y. He was 96. Theodore “Ted” Shaughnessy, 55, owner of Austin, Texas, retailer Gallerie Jewelers, died JCKONLINE.COM
At its annual Awards for Excellence gala, the Women’s Jewelry Association will present Visionary Awards to Mercedes Abramo, president and CEO of Cartier North America; Caryl Capeci, president of Hearts On Fire; and Nadja Swarovski, the first female member of the executive board of Swarovski. WJA will also present a joint Visionary Award to U.N. Women, the United Nations entity dedicated to gender equality and women’s empowerment, and De Beers Group, who have partnered to speed the advancement of women throughout the De Beers organization. The gala will be held on July 16 at Pier 60 at New York City’s Chelsea Piers.
FINANCIAL The Nordstrom board rejected a bid from its namesake family to take the department store chain private, calling the $8.4 billion offer “inadequate.”
POSITIVE VIBES IN ARIZONA & ASIA
DIAMOND: 1 ct. round brilliant
1 to under 2 cts.
2 to under 3 cts.
Orange Spessartite Garnet I
1 to under 2 cts.
2 to under 3 cts.
DIAMOND: 1/2 ct. round
THE U.S. COLORED stone market remains upbeat in the wake of the successful Tucson gem week and subsequent Hong Kong International Jewellery Show. In color, the big three—rubies, sapphires, and emeralds—are stable, while dealers report strong demand for garnets, topazes, tourmalines, and zircons. The driving force is reportedly strong demand from designers and custom jewelers for whom such gems have become must-haves. Dealers are also watching developments in Tanzania as government reforms aimed at better management of the East African nation’s mineral resources are having a direct impact on the tanzanite market. Construction of a wall around the tanzanite deposits in Merelani has been completed and is expected to deter illegal sales and smuggling, which previously had been common. Small-scale miners applaud many of the reforms, including the establishment of salaries for miners, an improved system of licensing dealers and mining companies, and in-country processing of rough. The reforms are expected to support more stabilized production of tanzanite and therefore extend the life of the deposits.
1 to under 3 cts.
3 to under 5 cts.
Tsavorite Garnet I
1 to under 3 cts.
3 to under 5 cts.
9 to under 12.5 cts.
10 to under 13.5 cts.
DIAMOND: 2 ct. round brilliant
Tahitian Pearl Strand (knotted 14k ball clasp)
Mozambique Cuprian Tourmaline I
2 to under 3 cts.
3 to under 5 cts.
DIAMOND: 2 ct. princess cut
Pink Sapphire (heated)
1 to under 3 cts.
3 to under 5 cts.
1 to under 3 cts.
3 to under 5 cts.
Prices shown represent actual wholesale memorandum prices paid by retail jewelers on a per-stone basis. All prices are per carat except for cultured pearls. No responsibility or liability is assumed for the consequences of the use of any information in this report, nor for errors or omissions. The terms commercial, good, fine, and extra-fine are general classifications developed and used by The GemGuide. Each represents a range of individual quality grades. When they are used in conjunction with proper grading, one can accurately pinpoint a price from within the listed range. The GemGuide is published six times a year. A one-year subscription includes market reports and colored stone and diamond prices. For more information, contact Gemworld International Inc., 2640 Patriot Blvd., Suite 240, Glenview, IL 60026; 888-GEMGUIDE or 847-657-0555, fax 847-657-0550. U.S., Canada, $205 complete per year. Elsewhere $275 complete per year.
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Handcrafted in USA & Canada
- Letty Haase, Owner, Miller Clock Service & Sales
The Leading Jewelry & Watches Marketplace With 170 million active buyers and 12 million unique daily visitors, eBay is a growing global marketplace. Learn more at the eBay hosted JCK TALKS education program in Las Vegas. Saturday, June 2, 10:30 AM â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 11:30 AM, The Showcase Stage, Bayside, Level 1. Visit our booth in the Retail Experience space, Bayside, Level 1-B10134. For inquiries, please email firstname.lastname@example.org.
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SHOWS & EVENTS
THE CALENDAR U.S.
INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD
VERONA MINERAL SHOW
Brooklyn, N.Y. iwjg.com
3–4 METAL & SMITH New York City metalandsmith.com
4–6 GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS Orlando, Fla.
Gold’s the thing at Oroarezzo in Arezzo, Italy, May 5–8.
Handcrafted ring with 1.72 ct. emerald-cut emerald and 0.72 ct. t.w. brilliant diamond rounds in platinum; $35,000; Omi Privé; 877-664-4367; omiprive.com
GEM FAIRE gemfaire.com
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Chicago intergem.com
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW
SPRING ROANOKE VALLEY GEM & MINERAL SHOW
WEST COAST GEM & MINERAL SHOW
GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS
GEM FAIRE Santa Barbara, Calif. gemfaire.com
5–6 AMERICAN BEAD SHOW Jacksonville, Fla. american beadshows.com
5–7 GREENSBORO GIFT & JEWELRY SHOW Greensboro, N.C. gtshows.com
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Marlborough, Mass. intergem.com
17–20 INTERNATIONAL JEWELRY AND MERCHANDISE SHOW New Orleans
DALLAS SPRING BEAD & JEWELRY SHOW
Grapevine, Texas aksshow.com
Santa Ana, Calif. mzexpos.com
20–23 SANTA FE SYMPOSIUM Albuquerque, N.M. santafesymposium.org
23–26 SOCIETY OF NORTH AMERICAN GOLDSMITHS Portland, Ore. snagmetalsmith.org
Costa Mesa, Calif.
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW
31–JUNE 3 LAS VEGAS ANTIQUE JEWELRY & WATCH SHOW Las Vegas lasvegasantiquejewelry andwatchshow.com
INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD Las Vegas
31–JUNE 4 AGTA GEMFAIR Las Vegas
LAS VEGAS GEM & JEWELRY SHOW
Las Vegas thecoutureshow.com
Las Vegas glda.com
MAY 30– JUNE 4 LUXURY Las Vegas luxury.jckonline.com
SEE YOU SOON! JCK LAS VEGAS, JIS EXCHANGE, SWISS WATCH JUNE 1–4
AREZZO: MACIEJ CZEKAJEWSKI/ SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
BOOTH# LUX 1305
the artistry of Dabakarov
Luxury by JCK LUX 1305
Luxury by JCK LUX 1305
THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY
FOR THE SUCCESS OF YOUR STORE
SHOP TALK FLORAL FIXATION
Anuschka Pashel’s Denver boutique puts the petal to the metal (literally)
HETHER IT’S A diamond-studded necklace, a lush bouquet of flowers, or a buttery-soft leather chair, Anuschka Pashel is “interested in all things beautiful,” says the retailer. Which is why the former Ford model doesn’t limit the types of products she sells in her Denver boutique, Bloom by Anuschka, a chic treasure trove where floral design, fine jewelry, furniture, and stylish home decor coexist. Pashel, who was born and raised in Germany to Czech parents, began her post-modeling career as a floral designer and opened Bloom by Anuschka as a floral atelier in 2011. Initially, the shop stocked just a few jewelry lines. “But it worked really well with the jewelry right away,” she recalls. “I realized very quickly, we really have something here.” She’s since built up an exquisite, multifaceted jewelry section in the store that reflects her eye for sophisticated bohemian design. “I’ve always had a passion for jewelry,” she says, “so I have to love every piece I buy.”
BY EMILI VESILIND PHOTOGRAPHY BY MATT NAGER
Anuschka Pashel Bloom by Anuschka bloomdenver.com
What compelled you, as a floral designer, to branch out into fine jewelry? A few of my close friends, models in New York, did jewelry—and I did a trunk show for my friend [and fellow former model] Heike Grebenstein’s collection at my studio. A short time after we hosted it, she said to me, “The biggest trunk show I ever had was with you!” I thought, that’s really interesting—maybe there’s something there. Later, I did a few trunk shows for local jewelers, and they were always huge successes. I started going to the Tucson gem shows and buying things like crystals to make pieces with. I’ve always made jewelry, really. Years back, when I was modeling in Miami, my friend and I went bead shopping all the time and went to thrift stores and bought necklaces and took them apart and made new things. How did you build up your stable of brands? I was carrying just a few brands when I saw this pair of Hannah Blount earrings that I loved in a window in Manchester-by-the-Sea [in Massachusetts]. So I called Hannah, and we eventually did a trunk show for her and started carrying her. Then I saw Margery Hirschey’s jewelry at ABC Carpet & Home in New York City and added her to the mix. I met Adel Chefridi at JCK Tucson and started carrying that collection. I eventually added Gurhan, and now we have our own jewelry line too, Bloom Bijoux. MAY 2018
“I’m attracted to jewelry that has a spiritual feel to it.” —Anuschka Pashel
Pashel’s own bracelets with antique millefiori Venetian glass beads, African trading beads, and ruby domed beads
How do you juggle the different categories successfully? It can be challenging. In essence, it’s like running three businesses in one. We’re also developing our own candle line and working on our own other things. But we’re growing so fast, and I really just go with the flow and let things happen. You’ve mentioned that clients have for the most part found you, not the other way around. Why do you think that is? I do think it’s the taste level. I have a lot of clients where we kind of edit for them. I’m really careful about what I put in our cases. I buy what I would wear, and I think people sort
of trust that edited selection. For instance, Gurhan is a pretty big line, and they’re carried at Neiman Marcus nearby. But the selection they have in Neiman Marcus isn’t anything like the selection we have here. I wouldn’t buy an aquamarine teardrop pendant from them; it’s too shiny and sparkling. But I would buy a big chunky aquamarine ring and a big emerald necklace. I’m always trying to sell things that aren’t mass-produced, and things that are more or less one-of-a-kind. Do the floral sales help the jewelry sales? The flowers are what bring people in. They’re so beautiful and in the window they look so great. Also, you
have to think of it this way—people wait in the store for their flowers to be done. And even if they’ve ordered in advance, they wait for them to be packaged. While they’re waiting for that to happen, I have this beautiful jewelry room with a big case and several smaller ones. They go in there and they look around. It’s a really organic experience.
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TREND OF DAYS
FINALIST, DIAMOND JEWELRY
BY EMILI VESILIND
Q: What jewelry trends are you investing in this year?
$2,500 & Under
FINALIST, COLORED STONE JEWELRY
$2,500 & Under
JAN FERGERSON CO-OWNER FORD, GITTINGS & KANE JEWELERS Rome, Ga. fgkjewelers.com
FINALIST, BEST PRICE POINT
$500 & Under
FINALIST, PERSONALIZED JEWELRY
$500 & Under
A: This year, one of the most
A: We see customers
exciting things has been getting back to colored gemstones like tourmaline and tanzanite. Citrine and amethyst are always fun and affordable, too. Pearls are huge for us, and we do well with freshwater, South Sea, and Tahitian pearls. We pair pearls with diamonds and also with leather. We’ve also seen a lot more yellow gold and rose gold, which really highlights the colored gemstones and pearls.
gravitating toward jewelry that looks a bit like David Yurman’s cable-designed pieces. The styles that come in silver with accents of 18 karat gold are selling quite strongly, especially if they have semiprecious stones like amethyst or garnet. They go well with a lot, and are especially nice for the winter season.
MICHAEL MELNICK CEO ARMEL JEWELERS Sarasota, Fla. armeljewelers.com
A: We’re investing in a lot of
S E RV I N G G E N E R AT I O N S O F JEWELERS SINCE 1926
estate jewelry. Individuals are coming into the store to sell one-of-a-kind pieces, which gives us a chance to price merchandise in a way that’s more competitive than [that of ] our competitors. We’re buying a full range of estate jewelry, but especially classic pieces from the likes of Kurt Wayne and Oscar Heyman, along with other jewelry that was prevalent in the ’60s, ’70s, and ’80s.
800.6 2 1 .0668 | www. Be rc o J e w e l r y.c o m DO YOU NEED RETAIL THERAPY? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.
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BOOTH B60037 to ensure your store has a great holiday season
DAVID COLL OWNER MONTCLAIR JEWELERS Oakland, Calif. montclairjewelers.com
GREG FRENCH PROPRIETOR HENRY C. REID & SON JEWELERS Fairfield, Conn. hcreidjewelers.com
A: We specialize in our own hand-forged bridal rings and engagement pieces, which are manufactured here in the store. While we do a majority of platinum, we are getting more requests for yellow gold and white gold. Also, customers are requesting rings that go the traditional route as opposed to the halo style that had been popular, so we will be investing there, too. JCKONLINE.COM
CAUSES TO CELEBRATE
L TOUR DE FLORIDA The Jane Basch Designs team puts a family-style spin on Miami’s annual Dolphins Cancer Challenge BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY
Sam, Michael, and Jane Basch with Hall of Famer Dan Marino (second from l.) at the 2017 DCC MAY 2018
IKE MANY OF his peers in the trade, Michael Basch, co-owner of Jane Basch Designs and the manufacturer Basch & Co., based in Hollywood, Fla., grew up in the jewelry industry at a time when charitable giving was the province of religious organizations. (His father, Jack Basch, immigrated to New York City from Romania and set up shop in Manhattan in the late 1950s, where he established a reputation for making monogram jewelry, a specialty the Basch family continues to this day.) Aside from “the Hasidic guys walking around asking for a few dollars,” Michael says, “there was no charity on 47th Street. “Things have certainly changed,” he adds. That might be the understatement of the century, not only in reference to the industry at large, which has given more than $53 million through the nonprofit Jewelers for Children since its founding in 1999, but also with respect to the Basch family’s own charitable efforts. On Feb. 10, Michael, along with his wife, designer Jane Basch, and their 24-year-old son, Sam, participated in the eighth annual Dolphins Cancer Challenge (DCC). While Michael and Sam joined the flagship event—the Hurricane Hundred Start, a 100mile bike ride that raises money for cancer research, with 100 percent of donations going directly to Sylvester Comprehensive Cancer Center in Miami—Jane participated in the 35mile bike ride. (“Jane usually does the
Signature monogram pendant in 14k gold; $487; Jane Basch Designs; 800-5581144; janebasch.com
100-mile ride; however, she just had foot surgery, so 35 miles was enough this time around,” he says.) “The DCC earned over $3 million just this year and well over $22 million in just eight years,” Michael says. “And it’s not going to all kinds of expenses; it all goes directly to Sylvester.” The Basch family’s personal contribution this year totaled nearly $5,000, which they raised through friends and some industry contacts. “I sent an e-blast to my customers and suppliers,” Michael says. “Everyone should have the opportunity to participate if they choose. Quite a few did!” Michael has participated in the DCC every year since its inception in 2010. “Cancer’s the big one,” he says. “We’ve seen too many friends dying. Almost everybody on the planet is touched by cancer.” The signature initiative of the Miami Dolphins Foundation, the DCC has become an important tradition in south Florida. “They have a number of retired or former players involved, which is pretty cool, because even though it’s a good-size city, you get to chat with the former players and some of the Hall of Famers,” Michael says. “[Former Dolphin] Dan Marino is always there. The owner of the Dolphins, Stephen Ross, does one of the shorter rides. Everybody participates, no matter who they are. “It’s a grueling training regimen and a tough day, riding 100 miles,” Michael adds. “But it’s so well-run. They make you feel really special.” JCKONLINE.COM
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STORE WE ADORE
1987 HYDE ST. SAN FRANCISCO
NO. 3 The third time was the charm for Jenny Chung Seeger. The 36-year-old entrepreneur has opened three different shops in San Francisco in the last 10 years. Her current one—appropriately named No. 3—is the first to specialize in jewelry.
A MAY 2018
N ECONOMICS MAJOR from the University of California, Berkeley, Seeger came to jewelry through clothing and accessories. Her first shop, Acrimony, carried mostly clothing and accessories, while her second foray, Acre SF, sold clothes and coffee. Finally, in 2013, she opened No. 3 in response to customers who demanded that she carry more jewelry. “Originally my goal was to make the shop a highly curated space for fashion jewelry, but once I saw the void in San Francisco for fine jewelry, the emphasis quickly changed,” she says. Though prices range from $2,500 up to $50,000, Seeger says she prides herself on cultivating an approachable vibe: “People can be intimidated by jewelry, so we let people touch things, try them on, look at them up close, and explain to them who designed what piece.”
SMALL BUT HUGE The shop itself brings new meaning to the notion of a jewel box: It’s not much larger than a walk-in closet. Items are arranged on shelves and tables in trapezoidal glass cases, most of which are closed but not locked so customers can reach inside as they wish. The sparse decor incorporates natural elements such as sand (in the cases themselves), geodes (on shelves and tables), and terrariums (some of which hang
PORTRAIT: AUBRIE PICK
“I’ve created a space full of things that I believe in,” says Jenny Chung Seeger. “I work with designers who I think are innovators and influencers, and I fill the shop with things that make people feel special.”
BY MATT VILLANO PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID FENTON
“Jewelry can be really intimidating,” Seeger admits. At No. 3, shoppers feel free to “touch things, try them on, and look at them up close.”
“I want to fill my shop with pieces that make people feel special. With jewelry, every time you put it on, it feels new.”
from the white walls). Every now and again, those iconic cable cars squeal and rumble past on Hyde Street out front. The original Swensen’s ice cream shop is just down the block.
—Jenny Chung Seeger
Like most small jewelry stores across the country, No. 3 logs the bulk of its business in selling engagement rings from such designers as Bario Neal, Bliss Lau, and Anna Sheffield, including a healthy selection of alternate options: black diamonds instead of white diamonds, rose gold instead of platinum, and so on. As Seeger sees it, “so many things about bridal pieces are interchangeable, and lots of women don’t know that.” For customers who want to take a more active role in the process, she recently debuted the custom-design online platform Waant.com.
RINGING IN NEW BUSINESS
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Above all else, what stands out about the offerings at No. 3 is choice. Los Angeles–based designer Misa Hamamoto uses wax-carving to sculpt each of her designs by hand, while Brooke Miller, the artist behind the San Francisco– based brand Porter Gulch, focuses more on Art Deco–style pieces. Seeger prides herself on drawing together an eclectic offering with varying customer interests in mind—a collection of jewelry that can be cocktail or fashion but also can be worn both ways. “Different people have different tastes,” she says. “We try to carry a collection that can offer something for everyone—something that’s elegant yet never feels stuffy—and I like to think we achieve that goal.” MAY 2018
T R A P P E D B Y INDUS TRY R E GULATIO NS & CO MP LIA NCE ?
WE ’LL HE LP YO U B RE A K T HRO UGH. Non-compliance with regulations can catch a company completely off guard. Being reactive is costly – both ¿QDQFLDOO\ DQG WR \RXU UHSXWDWLRQ -9& PHPEHUVKLS allows you to be proactive. Our staff attorneys are experts in jewelry industry regulations and compliance and are ready to assist you or your internal legal staff at any time.
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Thursday May 31, 2018
Four Seasons Ballroom Las Vegas
HONORING THE GOOD WORKS OF Bruce Cleaver, CEO De Beers Group Diamonds Do Good Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Professional Advancement Award
Government of the Northwest Territories Diamonds Do Good Responsible Government Award
Doing Good is Good Business To purchase tickets, tables, ads and sponsorship packages visit:
WWW.DIAMONDSDOGOODAWARDS.ORG THANK YOU TO OUR SPONSORS: THE DE BEERS GROUP and FOREVERMARK CHOW TAI FOOK JEWELLERY GROUP and HEARTS ON FIRE SIGNET JEWELERS LIMITED DOMINION DIAMOND MINES and CANADAMARK SPECIAL THANKS TO THE JCK INDUSTRY FUND
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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY
STAY AHEAD OF THE JEWELRY TRENDS
THE LOOK 1
ALL I SEE IS HUE
BY RANDI MOLOFSKY
4 1/ Large rainbow necklace with multicolored sapphires, amethyst, tsavorite, and green onyx cabochon in 18k white gold; $6,200; Andrea Fohrman; sales@andreafohrman. com; andreafohrman.com
Whether literal arcs or abstract kaleidoscopic designs, these prismatic pieces are always ready to party. Bonus: Each comes with its own pot of gold.
5 2/ Large rainbow ring with black opal, pink tourmaline, citrine, amethyst, and blue topaz in 18k yellow gold; $12,585; Brent Neale; 646-7456831; brentneale.com
3/ Multi-gem Circus Parade bracelet with tanzanite, ruby, yellow tourmaline, tsavorite, amethyst, and chalcedony in 18k yellow gold; $14,972; Mallary Marks; email@example.com; mallarymarksny.com JCKONLINE.COM
4/ Crystal multi-drop earrings with mixed sapphires in 18k yellow gold; $8,580; Polly Wales; 213-2657064; pollywales.com
5/ Rainbow Universe ring with ruby, aquamarine, emerald, and sapphire in 14k yellow gold; $875; Jennie Kwon; 213-221-7556; jenniekwondesigns.com
RANK & STYLE Our favorite fashion and jewelry looks from the 2018 awards-show season BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO
Fan earrings with 4.2 cts. t.w. sapphires, 20 cts. t.w. pearls, and 1.95 cts. t.w. diamonds in white gold; price on request; Sanjay Kasliwal of the Gem Palace; 212988-1511; sanjay kasliwal.com
Gold-plated blue enameled floral moon earrings with glass and pearl drops; $79; Tribe by Amrapali; newyork@amrapali jewels.com; tribebyamrapali.com MAY 2018
LUPITA NYONG’O UNDER $100
More than a month after the red-carpet blackout at the Golden Globes—a high-profile protest against sexual harassment and gender discrimination—actresses continued their show of sartorial solidarity at the British Academy Film Awards. But the all-black looks were anything but boring. With its gold piping and structural styling, Nyong’o’s silkand-velvet Elie Saab gown gave us serious Art Deco vibes. So we loved the contrast of the dangly pearl, diamond, and sapphire earrings by Sanjay Kasliwal. Their soft, fan-style movement echoed the flowing silk panels of her gown. JCKONLINE.COM
IAN WEST/PA IMAGES/GETTY
Coleman’s Smokey Blues Taj earrings in platinum with tanzanites, blue and lavender spinels, purple and blue sapphires, paraiba tourmalines, colorchange garnets, and diamonds; $157,000; Featherstone Fine Jewelry; 212-3430604; featherstone design.com
One-of-a-kind earrings with 16.84 cts. t.w. sapphires and 17 cts. t.w. lapis in 18k yellow gold; price on request; Irene Neuwirth; 323-285-2000; ireneneuwirth.com
If you watch Alison Brie’s awesome Netflix series GLOW (and if you don’t, you should!), you might have guessed that the Dundas dress she wore to the SAG Awards was a subtle tribute to her on-screen alter ego, wrestler Zoya the Destroya. You guessed correctly. “I’m very much channeling my character,” Brie told People. Perhaps you recall Zoya’s long-sleeved one-shoulder red leotard? Or the burst of flames that adorns her belt? The long sapphire and lapis Irene Neuwirth earrings would be a bit out of place on the butt-kicking Zoya, but regardless: Brie was one Gorgeous Lady Of Wrestling.
UNDER $10,000 Gemma earrings in 18k yellow gold with 8.27 cts. t.w. tanzanite and 0.26 ct. t.w. diamonds, $7,140; Lauren K; firstname.lastname@example.org; laurenk.com
FREDERIC J. BROWN/AFP/GETTY
Earrings with 3.2 cts. t.w. kyanite, 1.12 cts. t.w. Ceylon sapphire, 0.55 ct. t.w. tanzanite, and 0.12 ct. t.w. diamond in 14k white gold; $1,600; Eden Presley; sales@ edenpresley.com; edenpresley.com
Sunny Side of Life bracelet in 18k rose gold with green, blue, and mint tourmalines, aquamarines, and diamonds; price on request; Piaget; 877-8-PIAGET; piaget.com
SAOIRSE RONAN The Film Independent Spirit Awards have always been the most casual competitive affair in Hollywood. This year, Timothée Chalamet wore what cohost Nick Kroll likened to a gas station attendant uniform. Frances McDormand accepted her trophy in pajamas and slippers. And a few actresses—such as Lady Bird’s Saoirse Ronan—showed their more whimsical sides in brightly colored confections like this Prada mini. As if the chartreuse shade and citrus- and sherbethued embellishments weren’t sweet enough, her playful Piaget jewels added just the right amount of awards-show pizzazz.
Flower Serpent bracelet with royal blue moonstone, blue sapphire, tsavorite, and diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $23,000; Temple St. Clair; 212-219-8664; templestclair.com MAY 2018
Dancing Baguette stacked hinge bracelet with blue labradorite and crystal accents; $265; Alexis Bittar; 718-687-4144; alexisbittar.com
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Blue Book Collection necklace in platinum with diamonds and 61 cts. t.w. aquamarines; Tiffany & Co.
GADOT: DAN MACMEDAN/WIREIMAGE; NECKLACE: COURTESY OF TIFFANY & CO.
Kela necklace with 1.1 cts. t.w. diamonds and 0.75 ct. t.w. aquamarines in 18k white gold; $2,640; Ayva Jewelry; info@ ayvajewelry.com; ayvajewelry.com
GAL GADOT Oh sure, Wonder Woman’s bracelets are bulletproof. But given the choice, which would you rather have: a pair of amazing armor-style cuffs that could deflect gunfire, or the traffic-stopping diamond and aquamarine necklace that Gal Gadot rocked at the Oscars? The Wonder Woman star brought superhero style to the red carpet with the Deco-inspired Tiffany necklace and a gunmetal sequined-andfringed Givenchy gown that shimmered and shimmied with every step she took. Who knew another of Wonder Woman’s powers was hypnosis by couture?
Necklace with pear-shape aquamarines and 0.05 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k gold; $2,340; Paige Novick; 212-252-1441; paigenovick.com
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Siren Song choker with 36.21 cts. t.w. of diamonds; price on request; Messika; contact@ messika.com; messika.com
Three-row Swarovski crystal cluster necklace; $890; Oscar de la Renta; 888-782-6357; oscardelarenta.com
DANAI GURIRA UNDER $25,000 Pavé halo emeraldcut illusion choker with 4.8 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $23,100; Shay; 646-745-6831; shayfinejewelry.com GETTY
Actress Danai Gurira looked like a million bucks—or should we say a billion, now that her movie Black Panther has hit that major box-office milestone?—at the Academy Awards, from her blush-colored Gabriella Hearst gown, which was both strapless and backless (yes, you read that correctly!) and simultaneously regal and contemporary, to her super-glamorous Messika diamond ear cuff, bracelet, and choker. The necklace alone contained a jaw-dropping 676 diamonds. And could those dangling, shield-style stones be any more appropriate for our favorite Wakandan warrior?
Crystal Lily ring with acetate lily flower, Czech crystal pavé center, and 14k gold–plated brass setting; $150
FANTASTIC FAUX Lele Sadoughi has built her business on big, bold, bloom-filled jewels that she proudly calls costume. Wallflowers need not apply. BY KATHY HENDERSON
Honey tortoise Carnival earrings with acetate cutouts; $168; Lele Sadoughi; 212-228-8422; lelesadoughi.com MAY 2018
SADOUGHI: JASON SAVAGE
OU MIGHT NOT know Lele Sadoughi’s name, but you certainly know her work. A master of costume jewelry, Sadoughi began her design career at Ippolita, working with private-label clients including Banana Republic and Club Monaco before creating J. Crew’s massively successful jewelry line in 2005. She got a bit of publicity back then under her maiden name, Lisa Finkelstein, but after marrying in 2011 and embracing a childhood nickname, Lele Sadoughi (pronounced Lee-lee Suh-doogie) felt ready to juggle one final corporate gig at Tory Burch with the debut of her namesake collection. To say that the Lele Sadoughi line has been a hit is an understatement. Available at select Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, and Neiman Marcus stores, the Dallas native’s oversized pieces have been picked up by 75 smaller retailers and counting. “In the past six months, we’ve been getting requests from three or four new stores a day,” Sadoughi says. “Liberty came in and bought every earring in the line. It’s definitely a moment when people are craving big, colorful, flowery jewelry, and that’s what I do.” Seated in the sunny living room of her six-story Chelsea townhouse, which serves as both her family’s home and her brand’s headquarters, Sadoughi expresses a breezy confidence in her aesthetic. On the recent trend toward “small, delicate, demi-fine” jewelry, she says, “That’s just not what I want to wear, so I stay with things I think are really fun— and there are enough people out there who also want that. I don’t like to wear the same thing every day. I throw on jeans and a fabulous pair of earrings, and I’m set.”
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Golden Lily necklace in 14k gold–plated brass; $650
“Some designers don’t like the term costume jewelry, but I do.” —Lele Sadoughi
Rio earrings with crystal pavé post, tortoise acetate ring, and crystal acetate hibiscus flower drop; $335
As her look-alike preschool-age daughter, Ivy, plays among trays of samples, Sadoughi—wearing a gray crewneck sweater and black skirt, plus three-inch-long drop earrings from her current Rio collection—chats about her work. The intricate three-tiered design combines a crystal pavé post, a tortoiseshell acetate circle, and a blue acetate crystal-centered hibiscus flower. On her, the enormous earrings read as neutral. Images of the designer modeling her signature crystal lily, calla lily, and beaded hoop earrings while out and about in New York City drive online sales from her Instagram account. Sadoughi offers a sophisticated product at an attractive price point ($100 to $400), a combination she perfected at J. Crew during the economic downturn. “Everyone became more sensitive to wearing things that were attainable,” she recalls. “It wasn’t [a time to say], ‘This is my diamond necklace’; it was, ‘This necklace is fun, and you can get one, too, for less than a hundred dollars.’ ” Under her leadership, J. Crew’s chunky jewelry hit $40 million in sales in its first five years. In the bargain, Sadoughi received a crash course in running a business. “My advice to anyone just out of school is to learn on somebody else’s dime,” she says of working in a corporate setting. After earning a degree in advertising from the University of Texas, Sadoughi entered the fashion business working on trims for Rebecca Taylor, a natural launchpad to creating jewelry for brands ranging from Old Navy to Anthropologie. “I was a designer,” she says, “but I learned so much about merchandising and styling and production,
helping to name products and thinking, ‘Who is [the customer], and how is she going to wear this?’ ” By the time Sadoughi left a part-time post as jewelry design director at Tory Burch, she knew exactly where she wanted to position her line and how to manufacture it affordably on a large scale. “I’m not competing with $50 or $60 pieces,” she explains, “but there’s a lot of designerlabel jewelry that is $500, $600, upward to $1,200, and I thought, ‘I know how to do this and make it look nice for 30 percent of that.’ ” Sadoughi favors lightweight acetate in cheerful colors and patterns, gold-plated brass, pavé crystals, and stones such as halite and marble. For those who don’t care for flower motifs, she offers interlocking geometric shapes inspired by her love of Machine Age architecture. Each piece is packaged in a cloth pouch adorned with a tiny crown logo. As her company has grown, Sadoughi remains its sole designer, not an onerous burden for someone accustomed to turning out new collections every month for multiple brands. Her top-selling lily and daffodil acetate earrings began with sketches edited on a computer. “I study the shape of a bloom, cut and paste the shape, shave off some of the sides, and add crystals,” she says. “They remind me of the papier-mâché earrings my mom used to wear in the ’80s.” Her factory in China fabricates a prototype of each design for her approval. “I’ve been doing this for so long, my first samples usually come back nicely, which is good, because I don’t have time to redo them,” she says with a laugh. There’s nothing precious about the way Sadoughi JCKONLINE.COM
DESIGNER SHOWCASE Jungle Punch banded hoop earrings with intertwining marble acetate rings; $118
Crystal Lily flower earrings in motherof-pearl acetate with Czech crystal pavé center; $198
Samba earrings with dyed howlite, 14k gold–plated rivets, and cobalt stones; $280
describes her creations. “Some designers don’t like the term costume jewelry, but I do,” she says. “I try to keep a bit of elegance, but I think it should be crazy and big, and I’m not trying to be real in any way.” To her amusement, fans sometimes mistake Lele pieces for fine jewelry. “They’ll call and say, ‘I’ve worn this every day for years and now it’s tarnished.’ And I’m like, ‘Um, it’s costume jewelry.’ Or ‘This is my favorite piece. Can you fix the dents in it?’ No, but we’ll replace it, because this is a person who really loves it and we want her to be happy.” The company’s product mix continues to evolve, based on Sadoughi’s instinct for what stylish women want. “When I started, [the line] was 80 percent bracelets in a million colors, stacked on each arm,” she says. “Then I did the big necklaces. For the past two seasons, my collection has been 80 percent earrings. That’s what people are buying, and I think it will continue going into holiday. After that, I’ll move on. Costume jewelry is fun because it changes so fast.” In the six years since launching her business, Sadoughi has given birth to her son, Asher, and his little sister, Ivy (featured on Instagram with the hashtag #sadoughikids), and set up a showroom and an office on the top floor of her house. The shipping department is in the basement, accessible by an elevator outfitted with a Little Tikes chair for the family’s youngest riders. Sadoughi currently has five employees but is looking to hire a marketing director and engage a branding company. To reach a younger demographic, she recently designed a piece of jewelry for a PopSugar subscription box and a few lower-price items for the online styling service Stitch Fix. All this activity suggests a larger ambition, which the entrepreneurial designer affirms. “In five years, I feel like Lele Sadoughi will be known as a lifestyle line,” she says. Her interests are eclectic, including a forthcoming collection of retro cloth headbands that she’s been previewing on Instagram, jeweled clutch handbags, and home accessories such as trays, napkin rings, and picture frames. “When I started this business, my husband said, ‘You need to write this down—who is the Lele Sadoughi girl?’ ” The answer, she concluded, was someone a lot like her. “There are people in the world who dread getting dressed, and I’m the complete opposite,” she says. “My attitude is, if you have a pink dress, you should wear it. The Lele girl has fun with fashion and enjoys putting together a look that’s unique. She’s not a wallflower.” JCKONLINE.COM
75 inlay options
26 base materials
121 sleeve options
9 primary widths
713,512,800 possible designs Watch the video at www.lashbrookdesigns.com/jck
Visit us! JCK Las Vegas | Booth B60071
CHRISTOPHER SLOWINSKI The Polish-born designer and LUXURY exhibitor built a brand on getting more bling for your buck
Memory Cuff gold bracelet with 0.67 ct. t.w. round diamonds
LIKE MANY GREAT inventions, the Crisscut happened by accident. “I made a mistake while cutting a diamond,” confesses Christopher Slowinski of his trademark stone, which took two more years to perfect and patent. But Christopher Designs is about more than just extra-faceted diamonds. The jewelry brand’s newest brainchild: Memory Cuff bracelets. “No matter how many times you stretch it, or how wide you stretch it or twist it, the cuff immediately springs back to its original shape,” says the designer. “I think it’s exactly what today’s consumer wants and needs.” —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO Age: 65 Number of years in the biz: Just over 40. Number of employees you oversee: Over 100. Family and pets: My wife and I have a daughter, a son, a Yorkshire terrier, and a cat [pictured]. Describe your personal style: Tailored casual. Best piece of advice you ever received: It was given to me MAY 2018
Icicle star drop earrings with 1 ct. t.w. L’Amour Crisscut and 1.26 cts. t.w. pavé diamonds
by a jewelry industry friend and mentor, Ike Freedman: “Stick to what you do the best and protect it.” Worst piece of advice: I cannot think of it—I guess it wasn’t worth remembering. First job ever: My first job out of engineering college was as a sound technician for the movies in Poland. Of course, it wasn’t as advanced as it is today; we had to deal with reels of recording tape. How did you get started designing jewelry? My first job in the jewelry industry was setting diamonds. I would work to bring somebody else’s design to life and think, This would have been much better if it had been designed this way. If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing? I’d probably be an engineer or teaching engineering. Jewelry you’re wearing right now: My Cartier Ballon Bleu watch. Five items on your desk right now: Water (important to stay hydrated), pencil and paper for sketching, a diamond scale, and a crystal Buddha carving. Five songs on your playlist: “Atomic,” Blondie; “42,” Coldplay; “Amapola,” Andrea Bocelli; “Alabama Song (Whisky Bar),” the Doors; “Already Gone,” the Eagles. What did you have for breakfast? Eggs sunny-side up with toast and tomatoes and coffee. Guilty pleasure: A glass of red wine with dinner at the end of a long day. How do you unwind? I love to paint. I find it very relaxing. I often paint cityscapes or New York scenes [pictured, top l.]. Often my painting is with my glass of wine—perfect evening! Book you’re reading: Dead in the Water by Stuart Woods. Book you’ve been meaning to get to: Origin by Dan Brown. Favorite movie: Romancing the Stone. It’s funny every time. Who would play you in your life story? Although I’d like it to be someone young, tall, and thin, perhaps with an accent, like Gilles Marini, I’d probably have to be a little more realistic. He’d have to be a bit older. Hey, maybe Harrison Ford! Personal motto: There are two that I live by. I’m drawn to a quote by Deepak Chopra: “Instead of thinking outside the box, get rid of the box.” Another comes from Vincent van Gogh: “If you hear a voice within you say, ‘You cannot paint,’ then by all means paint, and that voice will be silenced.” JCKONLINE.COM
ROMANCING THE STONE: ™ & © 20TH CENTURY FOX FILM CORP./EVERETT; TAPE PLAYER: TTTUNA/E+/GETTY; WINE: COURTESY OF JOSH CELLARS
Ring with 10.05 ct. L’Amour Crisscut, 1.4 cts. t.w. fancycut, and 0.55 ct. t.w. round diamonds in platinum
JEWELRY: SEE P. 121 FOR CREDITS
FEATURES Artwork & Styling by Bruno Grizzo
(This page) Couture Voyage Africa 18k white gold earrings with 2.24 cts. t.w. black diamond pavé, 1.59 cts. t.w. tsavorite pavé, 1.26 cts. t.w. orange sapphire pavé, 0.88 ct. t.w. blue sapphire pavé, 0.49 ct. t.w. yellow sapphire pavé, 0.39 ct. t.w. red sapphire pavé, and 0.2 ct. t.w. white diamond pavé, $14,500, Couture Voyage Africa 18k white gold ring with 1.2 cts. t.w. orange sapphire pavé, 0.8
ct. t.w. tsavorite pavé, 0.71 ct. t.w. blue sapphire pavé, 0.62 ct. t.w. black diamond pavé, 0.4 ct. t.w. yellow sapphire pavé, 0.29 ct. t.w. red sapphire pavé, and 0.16 ct. t.w. white diamond pavé, $11,500, Stephen Webster, stephenwebster.com (Opposite page) Feather earrings in yellow gold with 1.43 cts. t.w. diamonds, $3,500, Shy Creation, 213-623-8900, shycreation.com
FASHION WATERCOLOR MEETS COLORED STONES IN A PAINTERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ODE TO THE JEWELRY WARDROBE Artwork & Styling by Bruno Grizzo Photography by Liam Goodman Jewelry Editor Rima Suqi
One-of-a-kind collection 14k white gold rings with 8.49 ct. oval pink tourmaline and 0.17 ct. t.w. diamonds, $3,550, with 8.32 ct. oval light green tourmaline and 0.16 ct. t.w. diamonds, $3,490, with 4.01 ct. oval tanzanite and 0.1 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,590, Artistry Ltd., 888-674-3240, artistrylimited.com; Paradise collection 18k yellow gold long drop earrings with lemon citrine, citrine, amethyst, light blue topaz, and peridot, $1,780, Marco Bicego, 866-4-BICEGO, marcobicego.com
18k gold earrings with 28 cts. t.w. morganite and 3.8 cts. t.w. fancy yellow, brown, and white diamonds; $7,500; Vivaan; 212-302-0402; vivaan.us
La Lavande platinum and 18k white gold bracelet with 3.67 cts. t.w. violet and cornflower blue Argyle diamonds and 6.58 cts. t.w. white diamonds; $450,000; Scott West Jewelry; 212-997-0940; ljwestdiamonds.com
Twist pendant in 18k white gold with 10 mm–11 mm white South Sea pearl, 0.45 ct. t.w. blue sapphires, and 0.65 ct. t.w. diamonds, $4,600; Twist earrings in 18k white gold with 0.81 ct. t.w. diamonds, 0.55 ct. t.w. blue sapphires, and 10 mm–11 mm white South Sea pearls, $5,800; 18k rose gold earrings with 0.88 ct. t.w. pink diamonds, 0.16 ct. t.w. white diamonds, and 12 mm–13 mm oval South Sea pearls, $9,000; Baggins Pearls; 213-624-2277; bagginspearls.com
B y E m i l i Ve s i l i n d
ST YLE GUIDE IN NEED OF SOME JEWELRY INSPIRATION? LOOK TO THESE FOUR ENVIABLY ACCESSORIZED WOMEN.
HERE’S NO SHORTAGE of stylish women in the public eye. From Kate Middleton to Kate Moss, Emma Stone to Emma Watson, fashion superstars abound. But only a handful of these fashion plates wear their jewelry with the same élan they show when choosing their clothes. All four of the famous (and fabulous) women described in the following pages are die-hard jewelry lovers who opt for bold or trendsetting looks with regularity. These style savants innately know what jewelry suits them, and how to curate and layer pieces for looks that are exciting and unforgettable. We hope their authentically cool style (and styling ingenuity) will inspire you to introduce your clients to fresh new jewels and innovative ways to wear them.
XXXXXXXXXX JOHN LAMPARSKI/WIREIMAGE
BEYONCÉ They were the earrings of the evening, and perhaps even the season. Beyoncé Knowles Carter entered the 2018 Grammy Awards clad in a wide-brimmed black hat, a black velvet gown with cutouts, and those earrings: diamond-shape, bling-studded white gold slices that descended well past her bare shoulders. The razor-sharp look, and the earrings themselves—by Bey’s red-carpet steady, New York City–based jeweler Lorraine Schwartz— became instantly iconic, part of the meticulously styled narrative about one of the world’s biggest pop stars. Of course, when it comes to Beyoncé, momentous jewelry moments abound. The singer is an enthusiastic and experimental jewelry buyer, wearer, and stylist. Her wardrobe is rich in trendy mainstream styles, street- and African-inspired pieces, and highglam custom jewels that complement her love of edgy, body-hugging fashion. She wears looks from big designers— Schwartz is a clear favorite for the red carpet— but also frequently buys and pulls from more underground labels for performances and in her personal life. A trio of small jewelry brands—Maya Jewelry, Ariana BoussardReifel, and House of Malakai—was entirely responsible for the massive trove of gold
jewelry Beyoncé wore during her incredible performance (while profoundly pregnant) at the 2017 Grammy Awards. Bey’s appreciation for jewelry is also evident in her street style. “A lot of times she will repeat the same jewelry with different outfits—that’s how you can tell she really loves her pieces and has an attachment to them,” notes jewelry designer Kristin Essel, cofounder of New York City–based boutique brand Third Crown. (Beyoncé often wears a bold gold cuff, among other pieces, from the brand.) The singer likes to dress up and to play a role in pushing trends forward. Recent posts on her Instagram show the star in very baggy deconstructed jeans tucked into white Gucci stiletto boots, her neck draped with multiple gold necklaces strung with religious pendants and crosses. But no matter how many jewels and accessories she packs into an ensemble, Beyoncé’s style always feels polished and pulled together. Hers is an aesthetic jewelry retailers can point to when clients want to wear an oversize earring or necklace, but still want to look elegant and feminine. For Queen Bey, it’s safe to assume that if the bauble’s not dramatic, she’s not interested. “She always wears very bold jewelry pieces that match her confidence level,” Essel says. “And that’s why she always stands out.”
LEANDRA MEDINE Mark Henry collection. Her mom, Laura Medine, has her own namesake fine jewelry line. And her brother Haim is the founder and designer behind the supremely stackable (and Instagrammable) Khai Khai collection. And though she gravitates to offbeat designs, the blogger mixes trendy fine pieces from brands such as Retrouvaí and Solange AzaguryPartridge with classic styles (she wore Elsa Peretti’s Bone cuff for months), costume jewelry, and demi-fine looks. She’s long been devoted to designer Roxanne Assoulin’s rainbow-hued enamel bracelets. And Retrouvaí’s cult-favorite Compass ring has also played a starring role on her hand recently, to the delight of brand founder and designer Kirsty Stone. “What I love about Leandra’s jewelry style is that it’s completely authentic and there are no rules,” Stone says. “She’s mixing classic high jewelry with costume, then mixing and matching with pieces from newer independent designers.” That mash-up of high and low, incorporating plenty of color, feels fresh and young. Jewelry retailers can namecheck the influencer (and earn a few points for being in the know in the process) when helping clients learn how to layer jewelry pieces in fashion-forward ways. “Leandra is a brilliant woman and an honest person,” says Assoulin, whose son has been friends with the blogger since high school. “She’s really an experimenter, and she’s an original. And she’s always had an opinion, and it’s always been her own. If she says she likes it, she likes it—and she’ll wear it.”
“Leandra’s jewelry style is completely authentic. There are no rules.” —Kirsty Stone
In any given Instagram photo, fashion blogger, author, and media mogul Leandra Medine wears three to seven pieces of jewelry. No joke. If volume were the sole measurement, the chic founder of well-read fashion website Man Repeller would be the clear heiress apparent to the ultimate pile-it-on jewelry eccentric, Iris Apfel, the nonagenarian tastemaker whose book on style, Iris Apfel: Accidental Icon, hit shelves in March. And like Apfel, Medine—who is credited with coining the nowubiquitous industry-wide phrase arm party—has a healthy sense of humor when it comes to style, along with a self-deprecating streak that endears her to readers of all ages. On a below-freezing day in February, for example, she posted a picture of herself covered completely in bulky knitwear and thermal underwear (save her eyes and nose, which comically popped out of a hole in a ski mask). The story teaser in the caption was pure Man Repeller—smart, but also smart-aleck: “Comprehensive list of myths about ‘chic’ winter dressing.” Another post, on her personal Instagram feed, showed Medine holding an earring hinged to a small red lobster. The caption told readers that she had accidentally grabbed the lobster instead of her keys that morning, “so I did what anyone would do, clipped it into my ear and waited for someone who lived in my building to get or leave home.” Jewelry is a family passion for Medine. Her father, Mois, is the CEO and founder of the alexandrite-filled
“She understands herself and how she wants to be seen.” —Kat Florence
SARAH JESSICA PARKER 127
Sarah Jessica Parker has played numerous roles since inhabiting Carrie Bradshaw, her muchloved Sex and the City character. Still, the actress’ status as a fashion icon is inextricably linked to Bradshaw, who—thanks to the wardrobe wizardry of costume designer Patricia Field—is arguably the most stylish protagonist ever to grace the small screen. But Parker’s personal style, both before and after Sex and the City, stands on its own. While Carrie’s fashion was exuberant and unpredictable, SJP’s style exudes a sophisticated confidence, and a love of both classic and experimental design. “Sarah Jessica Parker’s style in general sets her apart from other celebrities,” says jewelry designer Andrea Fohrman, whose jewelry Parker has worn on multiple occasions. “She stays classic and also [goes for] a bit of the unexpected pop that I love. If you look at her fashion moments throughout the years, you can see how she has been very strategic in how she chooses her jewelry.” Recent memorable looks include the diamond cluster Fred Leighton earrings she wore to the New York City Ballet’s 2017 fall gala event; an asymmetrical draped necklace glittering with purple and gold stones for a press call for her current series, HBO’s Divorce; and a long chain necklace anchoring a big black-and-white cameo pendant from Russia’s Axenoff Jewellery for the Moscow launch of
her latest perfume, Stash. Celebrities’ true personal style, however, is revealed in their casual ensembles. And it’s when Parker’s wearing denim, cashmere, and so forth that her good taste in jewelry and talent for creative styling really shine. At a March event at the SAG-AFTRA Foundation for Divorce, for example, Parker accessorized jeans and a sweater with a tasseled gold bracelet on one arm, and Assoulin’s Hip-Hop But Not bracelet, which features spikes of Swarovski crystal set in round white enamel, layered with a simple white metal cuff. The Assoulin bracelet is a look on its own, but through artful mixing and matching, Parker wore it with the ease of a minimalist wristwatch. Parker’s look is one jewelers can invoke when chatting with customers about the advantages of building a wardrobe of fine jewelry basics— diamond studs, simple hoops, and the like—on top of which they can layer fun and trendy looks to add oomph to their style. British jewelry designer Kat Florence, who collaborated with Parker on a fine jewelry collection in 2016, says part of the actress’ sartorial savvy stems from knowing exactly what she wants. “She understands herself and how she wants to be seen,” says Florence, who considers Parker a playful risk-taker. “And I believe when you know what you want, you are quick to visualize the shape and feel of things.”
TRACEE ELLIS ROSS “I love how strong and bold and beautiful she always looks.”
“I like that Tracee can rock a huge statement jewelry piece, and it doesn’t look like the piece is wearing her,” says jewelry designer Irene Neuwirth when discussing the rapid ascent of actress Tracee Ellis Ross as a full-fledged style icon. Neuwirth has collaborated with the celeb—and her A-list stylist, Karla Welch—on a few memorable redcarpet pieces, including those dropdead gorgeous pearl and gold-disc earrings the actress so expertly wore to the 2018 Golden Globe Awards (paired with a regal black head wrap from Marc Jacobs). “I love how strong and bold and beautiful she always looks,” adds Neuwirth. Indeed. Ross shot to fame as the costar of the ABC sitcom blackish. Her intelligence, killer comedy chops, and social activism (for women’s rights, gun control, and racial equality) have made her a go-to for hosting gigs in Hollywood (the actress was a guest host on Jimmy Kimmel Live! for an entire week last year). Along the way, she’s worn some pretty spectacular jewelry. Some of her most fabulous jewelry moments from the past year include the yellow gold Nikos Koulis drop earrings she paired with her blackand-silver Balmain gown at the 2018 Academy Awards; Jennifer Fisher’s
signature hoops and more sculptural geo-hoops, which she wears frequently; custom Lorraine Schwartz ruby drop earrings, which she donned for the Screen Actors Guild Awards; and Rona Pfeiffer’s Mayan pavé diamond necklace—a striking, fringe-heavy piece that blanketed her clavicles while she hosted 2017’s American Music Awards. Despite her daring when it comes to jewelry, there’s a classic sophistication at the core of all her selections— which makes the 45-year-old Ross the perfect celeb to name-drop for jewelers with older clients who may need that extra nudge to try an outof-the-box style. The lesson to impart: Big and bold styles aren’t solely for 20-somethings. Pfeiffer calls Ross “a risk-taker, which in turn makes her a fashion icon,” and adds, “Tracee radiates strength and confidence through her fashion choices.” Both Pfeiffer and Neuwirth agree that the celeb’s personal bravery, smarts, and authenticity clear the path for her to wear bold and/or unusual pieces without worrying about disappearing behind an avant-garde design. “She doesn’t want the safe route, and she’s always making a statement and enjoying it,” Neuwirth says. “To me, that’s true confidence.”
BRIAN BOWEN SMITH/AUGUST
E S S
HEADING TO JCK LAS VEGAS? CONSIDER ADDING O L D - S C H O O L C L A S S I C S , O N E - O F - A - K I N D E S TAT E JEWELS, AND EMERALDS TO YOUR SHOPPING LIST
B y K r i s t i n Yo u n g
Photography by Liam Goodman Prop St ylist Elizabeth Press
ANY JEWELRY BUYERS are dusting off their suitcases, packing up their business cards, and heading to JCK Las Vegas at the end of this month, with shopping lists based largely on what’s been selling well over the past year. Bolstered by a strong economy, high consumer confidence, and a growing number of self-purchasers, small independent fine jewelers making plans for the show sound optimistic about sales in 2018 and appear poised to write orders. For some, strengthening relationships
with prospective vendors, discovering new talent, and educating themselves on the latest technologies are priorities. “We go to the show for two things: to see what’s going on and to be seen,” says Shelley Hirsh, co-owner of Richard T. Hirsh Jewelers in Dallas. For others, however, the primary goal is to replenish what’s been flying off the shelves. No matter which camp you’re in, the JCK show is a premier destination to discover what’s new and next in the fine jewelry market. Here, we list this year’s top five jewelry must-haves.
1 DIAMOND SOLITAIRES In the last several years, many brides were on a quest to emulate celebrity-esque oversize engagement rings. That meant settings like halos—a way to make the diamond appear bigger— reigned supreme. Now, stores are starting to see a backlash against ostentatious engagement rings and are reporting a renewed interest in the simple, classic diamond solitaire. It’s a daintier look. “In bridal, we’re seeing customers go back to traditional clean solitaires,” says Scott Udell, vice president of London Jewelers and Two by London in Manhasset, N.Y. “Sometimes there are diamonds down the sides, but it’s nothing overthe-top. Just clean basics.”
1.5 ct. L’Amour Crisscut cushion diamond with 0.33 ct. t.w. round diamonds in platinum; $29,155; Christopher Designs; 800-9550970; christopher designs.com
2 ONE-OFF ESTATE PIECES Estate jewelry is ever more popular, fitting the narrative that customers are on a quest for unique, one-of-a-kind buys. For Paul Pastor, owner of Charles Schwartz & Son, with two locations in Washington, D.C., the desire for a one-off piece trumps cost every time. “We’re not competing on price,” he says. “They come for the onesies. That’s why, for the larger diamond pieces, we do well with fine estate jewelry. They’re not going to find it anywhere else, and they’re going to have a more unique piece, which is more interesting to the client.”
Art Deco platinum bracelet with 22 cts. t.w. diamonds, 2.7 cts. t.w. emeralds, and onyx; $69,500; Provident Jewelry; 561-747-4449; providentjewelry.com
3 SIGNET RINGS Bruno Mars and Cara Delevingne wear them. And now the traditional signet ring is sparking customer interest once again. Historically, signet rings were worn by men on the pinky finger and featured a family crest to be stamped in wax to sign documents. Prince Charles, for example, is rarely seen without his signet ring with royal insignia. Today, however, signet rings are meant for both men and women. They typically bear a flat face that can be engraved with initials or images of, say, a lion or a unicorn adorned with small diamonds or other colored stones. The primary attribute of the signet ring is its ability to be personalized. “American men are wearing jewelry again, and women are wearing more masculine jewelry,” confirms Paul Schneider, owner of Twist, which carries signet rings by Elie Top, Noguchi, and Marie-Hélène de Taillac. “It’s a cool look.”
14k gold Crescent Moon signet ring; $698; Pyrrha; email@example.com; pyrrha.com
EMERALDS At January’s Golden Globe Awards, emeralds earned almost as much publicity as the #MeToo and #TimesUp movements. Actresses wore all black in solidarity with the campaigns to end sexual assault and gender inequality in Hollywood, and several—such as Zoë Kravitz, Debra Messing, and Catherine Zeta-Jones—added emeralds to their ensembles. Historically, the gem, long associated with renewal, fertility, and growth, was a favorite among the suffragettes. Even Kate Middleton wore the green beryl to the British Academy Film Awards in February. “We’ve always sold emeralds, but it’s a lot quicker sale right now,” says Schneider. “It’s definitely a hot stone.”
18k white gold ring with 13.46 ct. rectangular emerald and diamonds; $170,000; VTse; 626-577-9288; vtsejewelry.com
5 CHARM BRACELETS
Bracelet with amethyst and mixed beetles and bees and CZ in 14k gold– plated brass; $330; Bounkit; 212-2441877; bounkit.com
Charm bracelets can be quaint, sometimes even juvenile, but there is renewed interest in the classic style because many designers are reinterpreting the charm. David Yurman is turning colored stones into barrel charms, while Marla Aaron makes chubby locks and adorns them with diamonds, sapphires, and rubies. Brooke Gregson’s triple orbit bracelet in blue sapphire, opal, and pink sapphire and Mallary Marks’ mixed gem jubilee bracelets are selling at Twist stores in Portland, Ore., and Seattle as well as TWISTonline. At Broken English in Santa Monica, Calif., customers are buying enamel, letter, and medallion charms from Foundrae, as well as vintage charms. “People come in to replicate the charm bracelets that their mothers or grandmothers wore,” says sales associate Mona Patel. “They’re also adding to the charm bracelets they have, and they’re starting new bracelets as well.”
B y Ve n e s s a L a u
TAKE THE FALL
T H I S S E A S O N , E M B R A C E T H E M I S H M A S H O F T R E N D S , F RO M S AT U R AT E D , S P L A S H Y C O L O R S TO M A G P I E M I S C E L L A N Y
ROWNIE POINTS TO the front-row fashion observers who could keep their focus this season. Throughout the monthlong circuit, from New York to Paris, there was a cacophony of distractions: Milan protests; Winter Olympics; Academy Awards; the Parkland, Fla., school shooting (and subsequent student-led surge against gun violence); Rob Porter; Hope Hicks; Stormy Daniels; and $31,000 office furniture. And let’s not forget the #MeToo movement. New York Fashion Week began with people still reeling over allegations against photographers Mario Testino and Bruce Weber in The New York Times; it closed with a bombshell in The Boston Globe, accusing 25 more fashion figures of sexual misconduct. If that’s exhausting to read, let alone live through, imagine the challenge designers face working within that world. After all, the myth of the fashion créateur working from an ivory tower is just that: a myth. No one designs in a vacuum. So,
if fashion holds a mirror to what is going on around us—the whole “hemlines up, hemlines down” thing—what does that mean for fall 2018? A splintered reflection, for one. Among the season’s more curious themes was a hybrid mode of dressing, some looks literally collaged along a vertical axis. Splicing and patchworking proved big motifs, as well as beefed-up layers and their eclectic cousin, magpie piling and styling. Designers leaned in to the fractured mindset and created something quite chic from it. One defining trend of the season? Well, there wasn’t one. Perhaps it’s that fragmented, inundated viewpoint. Jewelrywise, we saw romantic florals, brooches, and ample hoops, plus long swinging necklaces and the continuation of dramatic earrings in addition to smaller, more personal pieces, like the sliver of a necklace at Dion Lee. “Women love to have their little treasures as much as statement jewels,” says Marion Fasel, founder and editorial director of The Adventurine. Here, more on the season’s top trends.
1 2 3 5 4
1/ Necklace with digital prints, crystals, and pearl cabochons on gold-plated brass; €425 ($527); Bijoux de Famille; contact@ bijouxdefamille-paris.com; bijouxdefamille-paris.com
GLITZ FACTOR aubles, bangles, hear how they jing, jing-a-ling-a,” crooned the soundtrack at Rick Owens. “Sparkles, spangles/ My heart will sing, sing-a-ling-a….” That Peggy Lee classic was an apt anthem for fall 2018 because, of all the ’80s-centric trends on the runway, this was one the jewelry set can really get behind: indulgent glitz and glamour. Excess is back, baby. Chalk it up to the healthy run of streetwear and sportif (and tracksuits!) of late, but designers were ready to embrace the glitter factor again. And whereas in the past few seasons statement earrings were the rage, all sorts of styles
2/ Victoria multicolored crystal pearl pendant/brooch; $245; Ben-Amun; 212-944-6480; ben-amun.com
were in the spotlight. Dolce & Gabbana (pictured) had a treasure chest’s worth of demonstrative gold necklaces; Antonio Marras, decadent gemstone bracelets and bibs— and a generous dose of brooches, too. But Instagrammers, don’t fret—big boisterous earrings continue their reign, as seen at Saint Laurent, Zadig & Voltaire, and Tom Ford. Lest you think ostentation is just for glamazons after dusk, one of the more refreshing trends was seeing the look styled for day. Brandon Maxwell paired sparkling dazzlers with neutral knits and a gentle robe coat, while Calvin Luo mixed rhinestone danglers with suede-and-corduroy separates.
3/ Memorias long earrings with genuine coins in 22k gold–plated bronze; $50; Daniel Espinosa; 210558-3878; shopdanielespinosa.com 4/ Vermeil cross with garnets, amethysts, amber, and pearls; €750 ($930); Percossi Papi; percossipapi@ percossipapi.com; percossipapi.com 5/ Charm bracelet with 3.5 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k gold; $24,500; Established; 646-745-6831; establishedjewelry.com
1/ Champagne diamond and ruby drop earrings; $2,200; Modern Moghul; 361-239-8799; modernmoghul.com
3/ 18k gold Origami Ziggy micro rings in diamond, $1,430, in ruby, tsavorite garnet, and blue, purple, pink, yellow, and orange sapphire, $770 each; Kavant & Sharart; 212-3346700; kavantandsharart.com 4/ 18k yellow gold earrings with fluorite, amethyst, and real daisies; $2,650; Bahina; contact@bahina. com; bahina.com 5/ Necklace in Swarovski pearls and crystals and raffia pom-poms; €650 ($805); Shourouk; sales@ shourouk.fr; shourouk.com
COLOR CHAMELEON hen it comes to color, the industry isn’t quite ready to let go of spring’s spirited palette. Even hosiery— hosiery!—got the Technicolor treatment, enough to make colorful tights its own mini trend (see Adam Selman, Anna Sui, Haider Ackermann). Marc Jacobs and Carolina Herrera opted for luscious jewel tones, the latter closing with a parade of crisp white shirts paired with long faille skirts in various colors—Herrera’s uniform, a fitting finale for her last show. Prada served up delightful neons, the shocking highlighter hues heightened by the backdrop: vast windows with a view of the nighttime
sky dotted with fluorescent signs of bananas, monkeys, and other past brand motifs. Over at Marco de Vincenzo (pictured), we saw prismatic shades cast in glittering Lurex. From New York to Paris, the intriguing color contrasts and combinations were utterly compelling—and, at times, pregnant with meaning. Prabal Gurung’s pink focus was partially inspired by the uniforms of India’s all-female activist group Gulabi Gang (gulabi means pink in Hindi), and the rainbow stripes at Christopher Bailey’s last Burberry show very pointedly referenced gay pride—he announced a trio of donations to LGBTQ+ causes to boot.
VICTOR VIRGILE/GAMMA-RAPHO VIA GETTY
2/ Parrot stud earrings with glass seed beads on leather; $395; Mignonne Gavigan; layne@mignonnegavigan. com; mignonnegavigan.com
1 2 3 4
PILE IT ON
1/ Lucky Dragon amulet with lapis and turquoise horns, cabochon sapphire, trilliant-cut colorless diamonds, and brilliant-cut brown and colorless diamonds in silver, black silver, and white gold; $9,100; Karen Karch; 212-965-9699; karenkarch.com 2/ Multistrand tourmaline, amethyst, and kyanite necklace, $1,100, chalcedony triangle arrowhead with opal and diamonds, $800, amethyst and diamonds on chain, $1,300; Royal Nomad; sales@royalnomad jewelry.com; royalnomadjewelry.com 3/ Cuff bracelet; $88; DKNY; 844-8548326; thejewelrygroup.com
ake a cue from the season’s hulking layering motif—the more, the better—and pile on the jewelry. Rings were worn in multiples, cuffs stacked high on the arms à la Nancy Cunard, and necklaces, one atop the other. Clearly, fall’s exuberant attitude doesn’t only apply to ’80s glitz. Often, designers went for all of the above at once. Christian Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri did just that with her runway band of activists in a show inspired by the 1968 Paris student protests. (The show took place, coincidentally, while
Parkland students were gearing up for their own protests, making for another fashion-mirrorsworld moment.) Meanwhile, at Alexander McQueen (pictured), Sarah Burton wasn’t afraid to mix looks in a single outfit: a bejeweled torc with a swinging pendant necklace, worn with mismatched earrings— dangling pearl versus colored gemstone with a butterfly accent—and chunky bracelets in varying styles. For those keeping track, that hits a number of trends named here.
4/ Angled bands in 14k rose, yellow, and black gold with white, orange, and black diamonds and dark pink sapphires; $935–$2,300; Jane Taylor; 413-687-3153; janetaylor.com 5/ Bracelets in high-karat gold and sterling silver with multicolored diamonds, emeralds, rubies, tourmalines, and pearls; $22,000– $33,400; Sevan Biçakçi; 786-4097156; sevanbicakci.com
4 3 1/ Heart pendant with multilayered graffiti paint, sterling silver–filled backing, and silver 18-inch chain; $120; Rebel Nell; taylor@rebelnell. com; rebelnell.com
3/ Limited-edition brooch with hand-carved Plexiglas, bronze, silver, found botanical decorative elements, steel, brass, copper, and ancient Roman glass drop; $450; Thomas Mann; market@ thomasmann.com; thomasmann.com 4/ Vintage Passage Necklace 5 with faux pearl and celluloid and pearlescent thermoset elements, c. 1930–1960; $825; Lulu Frost; 212-965-0075; lulufrost.com 5/ Maia bracelet with vintage glass, Swarovski crystal and pearls, turquoise, porcelain, and resin; €210 ($260); Anton Heunis; sales@ antonheunis.com; antonheunis.com
PIECE OF THE MAGPIE ottle caps, seashells, whistles, and jacks—each and every one of these made its way onto the runway as jewelry. On their own, this wouldn’t be much of a story. But together, they’re reflective of a magpie mode of dressing that slowly came into focus for fall 2018. A little of this, a little of that. Why not? It’s a thought that came to mind while watching Alessandro Michele’s Gucci show, which was equal parts exhilarating and overwhelming in its rapid-fire delivery of references. Just to name a few: plaids and peplums, knitted balaclavas and pagoda hats, models with third eyes and those carrying their (fake) heads in their hands.
5 It was a postmodern mash-up on steroids, augmented all the more by a life lived through feeds. “We are all the Dr. Frankenstein of our lives,” Michele said in a postshow press conference. “Cutting and assembling and experimenting on the operating table.” That’s not to say the jewelry takeaway is to channel your inner hoarder. It’s about combining pieces, mixing and matching, having fun, and making it personal. Charms play heavily in this trend, best seen at Coach and Balenciaga (pictured), which had a miscellany of trinkets including silver feathers and keys dangling from necklaces and earrings. Hey, non-precious can be precious, too.
VICTOR VIRGILE/GAMMA-RAPHO VIA GETTY
2/ Mismatched Cross Drops with lapis, rose quartz, turquoise, opal, pink chalcedony, shell, cameo, coral, and antique enamel button in gold-plated silver; $850; Grainne Morton; grainne@grainnemorton. co.uk; grainnemorton.co.uk
5 1/ Nova cluster pendant necklace in 18k gold; $3,995; Ippolita; sales@ ippolita.com; ippolita.com
4 GIRL WITH THE PEARLS here’s no sign of the pearl trend letting up, as designers continually reinvent the look. Plus, with fall’s renewed vigor for the decadent stuff, the zeitgeist is ripe for this mainstay of ladylike luxury. The look came every which way, from traditional single and double strands (Michael Kors, John Galliano) to lavish tassels (Bibhu Mohapatra). Part of the fun—for this jewelry lover, anyway—is counting the diverse, experimental takes on the runway. Pearls came supersized at Oscar de la Renta, and in mobile-like drops at Erdem (pictured). They
VICTOR VIRGILE/GAMMA-RAPHO VIA GETTY
climbed north of the lobe at Valentino and Prabal Gurung. Louis Vuitton’s Nicolas Ghesquière had simple drops—with a long trailing chain for just the right amount of off-kilter cool. This season, pearls were particularly relevant for the larger menswear trend. Yes, they’re a staple for playing up a romantic or an ultrafeminine mood, but they’re also a chic counterpoint to the strong-shouldered tailoring seen all over the collections. Beaufille’s elegant addition of pearl pins and pendants on a mannish, gently cut jacket, for instance, was just the right dose of divine.
2/ Sliced double diamond encrusted South Sea pearl drops in 18k yellow gold with Tahitian and Australian pearls; $4,800; Samira 13; 310-6521313; samira13.com 3/ Pearl S ring with spinel, labradorite, and 0.52 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $2,000; Eden Presley; firstname.lastname@example.org; edenpresley.com 4/ Double Fluid gold baroque white freshwater pearl cuff; $2,195; Mizuki; email@example.com; mizukijewelry.com 5/ Double pavé ear cuff in 14k yellow gold with white pearl, gray diamonds, and white sapphire; £1,000 ($1,417); Anissa Kermiche; firstname.lastname@example.org; anissakermiche.com
S T N E C G N I K A M
HE TA XMAN HAS transitioned from foe to friend. Independent jewelers and tax professionals interviewed by JCK are hailing the recent Tax Cuts and Jobs Act—which was signed into law on Dec. 22—as a huge boon for jewelers, one expected not only to substantially boost profitability but also to help level the taxation landscape among retail businesses and other large corporate categories. “Between lower rates and expensing provisions, this is a great opportunity to reduce your tax burden,” says Jeffrey A. Wlahofsky, a certified public accountant with Pittsburgh-based accounting and tax advisory firm Schneider Downs, which serves jewelers among other retail clients. “It will put more money in the business and generate more profit for the owners.” And perhaps most important, jewelers will be able to retain a greater share of that profit. “I don’t have to shield income as much as before, because now I get to keep more of it,” says Craig Rottenberg, president of five-store Long’s Jewelers in New England and an MBA holder from the MIT Sloan School of Management. “Now is the time to be profitable.”
PROFIT POTENTIAL Jewelers who have compared their past tax bills with what they would total under the new law have found they will realize hefty reductions. John Henne, president of fourth-generation Henne Jewelers in Pittsburgh and chairman of the board of Jewelers of America, tells JCK that his 2016 personal return would be reduced by 31 percent when recalculated under the new rules. Independent jewelers and similar small businesses may benefit more than large corporations, which historically have benefited from special tax incentives that weren’t generally applicable to smaller companies. “We talk about the rates having been very high, but a lot of companies—like Big Pharma, tech, and manufacturers—weren’t paying anything near those rates,” says CPA Christopher S. McElroy, the retail tax lead for Schneider Downs. “There weren’t a lot of levers for retail, so jewelers have always paid at the higher end of statutory rates. The tax reform really will put them on par with other taxpayers and leave more dollars on the bottom line.” Thanks to the act’s reduced individual tax rates, jewelers will also benefit from increased consumer spending power. “There’s two sides,” Rottenberg says. “It’s going to
help our businesses directly, but it will also put a lot more money in people’s pockets as they do their taxes at the same time as companies are handing out larger raises and bonuses. People will be spending more, growing our sales. We’re in a sweet spot right now, and the tax bill is the cherry on top.” Consumers are already making that apparent. “Many of our best customers are small-business owners themselves, and they’re the ones who are going to see the biggest savings,” Henne says. “I spoke with one customer who says he’s going to save over $600,000. I joked with him that I only want to see 20 percent of that spent on jewelry.”
CASH TO GROW ON Jewelers say that more money left in the till will open new avenues for building their businesses. “We’re thinking about what we can do with the dollars,” says Robert F. Moeller II, president of R.F. Moeller Jeweler in St. Paul, Minn., and treasurer of Jewelers of America’s board of directors. “Maybe I’m taking a little more myself. But mostly it’s about how can we invest to grow the business?” The new rules create a temporary deduction providing for first-year expensing of capital investment in tangible property. Additionally, they substantially expand qualified property to include
LOOKING HAUL IS R E V O X E R A L TA WELERS THE FED G FOR JE N I S I M O PR
y Sielaff By Whitne
assets such as heating, ventilation, and air conditioning systems and even new roofs. “If it’s improvements to a building, any type of interior buildout, there’s a significant savings,” explains Henne. “Remodels, especially, will be much more attractive. Even those who were contemplating opening a new store are going to be much more likely to do it.” Moreover, while formerly only new equipment was eligible, the deduction has been expanded to include used equipment. “The definition is any improvement to the interior portion of a building, nonresidential,” McElroy says. “Now if you go out and acquire a business, say a competitor’s store, you could write off the qualified property.” More generally, jewelers are expressing interest in using the tax windfall to expand inventory. “We’re still looking at how to best compete against the internet,” Moeller explains. “The answer is immediacy, same-day delivery. He who is faster wins. So you have to have the stock there all the time. For the kind of customers we’re talking about, we’re looking to place more emphasis on Rolex, solid gold— bigger and more. Those are investments you make when you’re confident about the market and your cash position.” Others are looking to invest in their staffs, adding
jobs and boosting compensation with a goal of increasing productivity. “We’ve seen our business growing in the past year,” Henne says. “You can invest more in your people because you’re going to have money left over.”
TAKE ACTION—NOW Because the new rules are complex, jewelers in the know advise consulting with tax professionals immediately. “You should be meeting with your accountant now,” Henne says. “There’s planning involved, so it’s important you don’t leave this until year-end.” Among topics to discuss is how your business should be structured to maximize your potential tax advantages. According to Henne, the vast majority of jewelers are designated as C corporations, S corporations, or limited liability companies. While C corporations will benefit from a permanent reduction in their tax rate from 35 percent to a flat 21 percent, jewelers operating under this structure are essentially double taxed, once at the corporate level and again on their personal returns for the dividends they take out of the business. On the other hand, S corporations and limited liability companies are taxed as pass-through entities with income taxed only once, on the jeweler’s individual return. Moreover, individuals will benefit
from a new deduction offsetting 20 percent of income from pass-through entities. “There will be a significant difference in how much you benefit, depending on how your company is structured,” Rottenberg says. “Companies are going to have to figure out how owners are going to pay themselves—salary and bonus or distribution of dividends.” “A young company with debt and that won’t be paying much in dividends should be a C corp,” Wlahofsky adds. “More mature businesses should be structured as pass-throughs. If you’re a C corp, a million dollars earned at the highest rate actually nets only 52 percent. If you’re an S corp with a million, you end up putting 68 percent in your pocket.” Another potentially valuable change for jewelers is the temporary doubling of the estate tax exemption to $10 million per individual, or effectively $20 million for a married couple, adjusted for inflation and running through 2025. “Now is the opportunity to plan for family transition,” Wlahofsky advises. “I’m already booking meetings with closely held businesses to do that.” “It’s based on profitability, so it’s a big help for small family businesses that have some real value built up,” Rottenberg adds. “It’s almost eliminated their worry from an estate planning perspective.”
B y D a n i e l P. S m i t h
THE “KOHLSIFICATION” OF AMERICA Overall retail sales this past holiday season approached $692 billion, according to the National Retail Federation. Optoro, a logistics provider that helps companies manage returned merchandise, estimated that 13 percent of those purchases would be returned to stores. Though jewelers generally enjoy a lower return rate compared with general retail, today’s consumers rarely hesitate to return merchandise. And some retailers, in fact, promote über-accommodating policies to woo customers. “A forgiving return policy is like insurance to customers— hopefully, they don’t need it, but they sure like knowing it’s there,” says Waqas Saeed, operations manager at Sacramento, Calif.–based Sharif Jewelers. Department stores such as Kohl’s and Nordstrom as well as online jewelry outlets including Blue Nile and The Jewelry Exchange all tout rather lenient return policies. Blue Nile, for
ACCUSTOMED TO GENEROUS RETAIL RETURN POLICIES, JEWELRY STORE SHOPPERS AREN’T AFRAID TO BRING MERCHANDISE BACK. HERE’S HOW TO CRAFT A FRIENDLY RETURN POLICY WITHOUT SACRIFICING YOUR BOTTOM LINE.
RETURNING POINT THE
HEN THE ISSUE of returns comes up, David Audette, co-owner of M.R.T. Jewelers in East Providence, R.I., sighs deeply. For years, M.R.T. held a forgiving return policy, one that honored multiple generations of customers at the century-old store. “We’d even take back custom-built pieces if we felt we could use certain components again,” Audette says. “There was no way we could’ve been more liberal than we were.” Now, however, Audette is rewriting M.R.T.’s return policy, carefully crafting guidelines to better insulate the business from losses. “The goodwill we’ve extended to customers hasn’t necessarily been returned,” Audette explains. “Jewelers need to take measures to protect themselves, and we’ve been lax to do that.”
“Consumers aren’t gun-shy about returning items and generally have a hard time understanding a retailer who isn’t forgiving.”
Turgeon Raine cofounder Jerry Raine (pictured with store manager Richard Servis)
—Ryan Blumenthal, Corinne Jewelers
instance, provides 30-day returns alongside free, insured shipping. Those actions feed into consumer expectations. Some customers make purchases knowing they might return an item, and many expect stores to bend to their needs even if a return falls out of bounds. “Consumers aren’t gun-shy about returning items and generally have a hard time understanding a retailer who isn’t forgiving,” says Ryan Blumenthal, third-generation owner of Corinne Jewelers in Toms River, N.J. For many jewelers, the prevailing marketplace reality puts them in a bind: Meet consumer expectations, occasionally at the expense of the store’s bottom line, or risk alienating customers.
A DELICATE DANCE At Long’s Jewelers, a five-store, New England–based chain, president Craig Rottenberg reviews the company’s return policy on an annual basis, specifically considering competitors and customers. Over the past five years, Long’s has increasingly erred on the side of accommodating customers. Today, customers have 30 days to return merchandise in the same condition in which it was purchased. “That can make for some challenging days in January when we see a lot of holiday returns,” Rottenberg says. “It’s only human to ask if this makes sense.” But rather than rejecting consumers’ escalating penchant for returning merchandise, Long’s embraces it to spur longterm business. “We don’t mind accepting returns so long as it’s not abused and in the spirit of serving customers,” Rottenberg says. When Blumenthal arrived at Corinne Jewelers 15 years ago, he shuddered at a “very restrictive” return policy and responded by initiating a no-questions-asked, 30-day policy for all merchandise presented in its original condition. “The net of it is that we’re not here for a one-time sale but for many sales over a lifetime, and we can’t have policies running against this,” Blumenthal says, adding that customers consequently see Corinne Jewelers as a “risk-free” shopping experience. “The biggest hesitation we see at the counter isn’t price,
but rather if the recipient will like the piece,” Blumenthal says. “When we say risk-free return, you can almost see the nervousness evaporate.” Similarly, Turgeon Raine, a luxury jeweler in downtown Seattle, offers a 30-day, no-questions-asked return policy for any item purchased out of its stock. “With the jewelry business being so gift oriented, it’s hard for someone to spend a lot of money if this type of policy isn’t in place,” cofounder Jerry Raine says. When a client presents a return, Turgeon Raine accepts the product back with a smile. Raine says today’s customers expect no-hassle returns, and making them clear hurdles or justify themselves to multiple people only frustrates. “Upset a client and that goes against you in the long run.”
Point of No Returns
Before handing over money for returned product, savvy jewelry retailers make sure they’ve got their bases covered:
Talk with suppliers about the store’s return policy, and solicit their cooperation toward delivering a positive shopping experience.
Remain cordial when accepting returns. “You don’t want to make the customer feel bad, awkward, or embarrassed to return an item,” Corinne Jewelers’ Ryan Blumenthal says. “That can be a killer.”
Inspect the piece to verify its condition and that the returned item is precisely what was sold.
Confirm proof of purchase at the store, including total cost, payment method, and purchase date.
Attempt to ascertain the reason for the return. “Often, it’s something we can address,” Long’s Jewelers’ Craig Rottenberg says.
PROTECTING THE BUSINESS Still, retailers cannot realistically cater to every whim and must draw some lines. Sharif Jewelers places a 14-day limit on any return, requiring items to be in new and unworn condition. New watches and gold bullion, moreover, are final sales. Sharif Jewelers does permit exchanges, an olive branch of sorts. “We wrote our new policy in a way that we’re covered,” Saeed says, adding that revising the return policy was a multiyear effort at the family-owned business. Though Long’s possesses a relatively generous return policy, Rottenberg has nevertheless spelled out particular nuances to prevent costly returns. For instance, protective stickers must remain on timepieces. He is also exploring using security tags to discourage wear-and-return instances. “We sell pristine, new jewelry,” Rottenberg says. While return policies differ from one retailer to the next, particularly in the Wild West world of e-commerce, one element is nearly ubiquitous: Special orders and custom pieces are not returnable. Many stores definitively communicate that on their receipts, order forms, and websites. “It’s a poor business model to be bogged down by custom pieces that are returned, so you have to make this explicit,” M.R.T. Jewelers’ Audette says. “The bottom line: We all have to protect our businesses.”
PA RT O N E
M A L LS OF AMERICA
SOMERSET COLLECTION 2800 West Big Beaver Road Troy, Mich.
JCK’S ONGOING SERIES ON THE SHOPPING CENTERS FINDING S U C C E S S A M I D A N E V E R - C H A N G I N G R E TA I L L A N D S C A P E
IF YOU HAVE the opportunity to walk with real estate developer Nathan Forbes around his family’s COLLECTION BECAME luxury supercenter, Somerset Collection, in Troy, Mich., you SYNONYMOUS WITH will inevitably see him adjust a sign here and there, push a chair MICHIGAN’S ULTIMATE back into place, or even sweep an errant piece of paper off the SHOPPING EXPERIENCE immaculate floor. His attention to detail is a by Karen Dybis hallmark of The Forbes Co., the nationally recognized developer, owner, and manager of high-end retail properties including Somerset. (Forbes’ other luxe shopping centers include a trio of Florida malls: The Mall at Millenia in Orlando, The Gardens Mall in Palm Beach Gardens, and the super-scenic Waterside Shops in Naples.) With its two centers stretched across the heavily trafficked Big Beaver Road in a well-appointed suburb of Detroit (about 25 miles north of downtown), Somerset Collection is an architectural icon, a Midwest shopping destination, and a beloved part of the Forbes family portfolio.
BEST OF THE BEST “Yesterday’s amazing is today’s expected,” Forbes says. “The shopping experience has to be seamless. That’s the only way we can hold our marketing position.” As a result, Forbes says, the mall has achieved the trifecta of retail: When shoppers decide to go to Somerset Collection, “they make the commitment to drive farther, stay longer, and spend more.” That is one of the many reasons retailers wait years to gain a desirable space within its buildings. Somerset Collection has held true to its initial goal of being “best in class” in all retail categories, Forbes says—starting with its anchor/department stores: Somerset boasts Michigan’s only Neiman Marcus, its only full-priced Saks Fifth Avenue, and the largest Nordstrom in the state. Forty percent of the mall’s in-line, small-shop leasing, he adds, goes to retailers who’ve chosen Somerset for the location of their only stores in Michigan, including Zara, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Restoration Hardware, and Tiffany & Co. Because Somerset can pull in those kinds of iconic brands, “you really don’t have just a trade area, you have a whole region,” Forbes says. “With duplicative retail, people typically go to the closest mall. But if you have best-in-class in all retail categories and exclusivity in retail shops and anchors, then they have to come to you.”
The Somerset South fountain was designed by WET, which has created artistic waterworks everywhere from Los Angeles and Las Vegas to Dubai and Shanghai.
“If you have best-in-class in all retail categories and exclusivity in retail shops and anchors, then people have to come to you.” —Nathan Forbes
The North Grand Court plays host to activities including children’s sing-alongs and gallery-style retail exhibitions.
Through Somerset, the Forbes family (no relation to Malcolm or Steve Forbes) has taken the long view of the mall concept, says Ken Nisch, chairman of Southfield, Mich.–based JGA, a retail designer known for its shopping centers, exhibition spaces, experiential destinations, and more. “They’re not leasing a mall— they’re creating an asset,” Nisch says. “They want to be the best, not the biggest. But they’ve still become the biggest and the best in the markets they’ve chosen to be in. Somerset is a regional destination center, not just a neighborhood or area center. If a brand is coming to Michigan, this is where they’re going to be. It’s become a self-reinforcing system. The best brings the best.”
INTELLIGENT DESIGN It hasn’t always been that way. Somerset Mall opened in 1969 as a single-store outdoor mall built onto an existing Saks. In the early 1990s, it rebranded as Somerset Collection, added a second story, and underwent a high-end renovation. The revamped space proved so successful that Forbes and its partners opened a $200 million, three-story expansion across the street, adding 940,000 square feet and four department stores. Today, Somerset has grown to 1.4 million square feet, spanning two buildings connected by a 700-foot-long glass-enclosed moving skywalk between what’s known as Somerset North and Somerset South. The combined space comprises more than 180 stores and restaurants. The interior design features skylights, glass elevators, elaborate fountains, and seemingly endless expanses of marble, wood, and exquisite landscaping.
For everything Somerset has, there are many things it avoids—such as carts, kiosks, and visible vending machines. The uncluttered space coupled with dynamic storefronts, retailer displays, and contemporary touches makes Somerset feel like a place where you dress up to shop or ask your children to be on their best behavior. “Having lots of light, regularly remodeled lavatories, and customerservice areas—those are important to our entire experience,” Forbes says. “It’s part of the subliminal mindset we want for our consumers. When they’re inside Somerset, we want them to feel good about their experience. It is light. It is visual. It is uncluttered. The stores are the star of the show.” Consumers sense the investment, he adds, thinking of the shopping center as an extension of their own style and sensibilities. “They take ownership of the shopping center; they can brag about it,” Forbes says. “Some developers have asked why we spend so much. We believe the more you spend, the more people will respect the level of commitment you’ve made to the mall and [think] of it as if it were their own.”
RIGHT THIS WAY The center’s development is a kind of tribute to patience— that of the developer and retailers alike. For example, Forbes’ father, Sidney, talked to Nordstrom officials for three years to persuade the company to come to Michigan. Similarly, local retailer Tapper’s Diamonds & Fine Jewelry knocked on Somerset’s doors for nearly a decade to gain a space inside. Tapper’s, a long-standing Michigan jewelry retailer, has its flagship store in Somerset—along with a new Rolex boutique. “Somerset always does the right things the right way,” says Mark Tapper, part of the latest generation running the family-owned jewelry business. “Whether it is the quality of the design, the ambience, the level of maintenance, they are curators who elevate the property.… People want to be there. It creates a happy mood, and happy people are better consumers.” Forbes says Somerset Collection’s future includes focusing on how to create a “seamless shopping experience” for its customers, merging physical bricks with online clicks. “We have no boundaries today,” he says. “As retailers have become more agnostic about where they do their sales, we’re looking for ways to merge in-line with online opportunities, integrating Somerset into our guests’ lifestyles. That ranges from doing yoga in the grand court of Somerset North to partnerships with the Detroit Lions [football team] to bringing pop-up shops to downtown Detroit. We’re exploring every way to bring retail to the people.”
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JE W CH EL AW O E R A R I C E S’ DS
NE E RS
FO R O T A T PA ER HE IR S W 11t EA O ER h F R AN E D GO S RO LD W NU E PS EN PT AL J I , N T D IN EW H W IA TO EL E YE HA MO ER T H AR T’ N S’ E S D C C N O O -DU EL HO F W T E S IC H S T U E E ED TI N AL EA Q AW SH U R AR O ES R IN D T INI RB IO S I G N G T O , N AB -S F LY TA R V
14k yellow gold ascending star drop earrings with 0.51 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,320; Shy Creation; 213-6238900; shycreation.com
JEW EL E RS’ CHOI C E AWA RDS
B EST B RI DAL D ES I G N
Bold & Beautiful ring with 4.02 ct. rose-cut natural pinkish pear-shape diamond with 1.34 cts. t.w. light pink and 1.63 cts. t.w. white accent diamonds in 18k rose and white gold; $28,000; Neon Gems Inc.; 213-627-0433; neongems.com
Bruna 18k white gold round split-shank engagement ring with 1.55 cts. t.w. diamonds; $5,475 (without center stone); Gabriel & Co.; 212-519-1400; gabrielny.com
Eternal collection engagement ring with 0.77 ct. t.w. round brilliant diamonds in 14k white gold; $1,960 (without center stone); Shy Creation
B EST STAT EME N T PIEC E
Hanami in Tokyo ring in 18k gold and platinum with 1.23 cts. t.w. pavé diamonds; $10,000; KISEKI; 323-230-0573; kisekidiamonds.com
Necklace with handcarved rose gold petals and leaves, 1.42 cts. t.w. diamonds, and 28+ cts. t.w. Lotus Garnets and Australian opals; $34,000; Parlé Jewelry Designs; 800-635-9800; parlegems.com
(PREVIOUS SPREAD) HAIR: JEROME CULTRERA/ORIBE/L’ATELIER; MAKEUP: KAJSA SVANBERG/CHANEL/ART DEPARTMENT; MANICURIST: ROSEANN SINGLETON/CHANEL/ART DEPARTMENT
18k white gold engagement ring with 1.39 cts. t.w. diamonds; $4,300 (without center stone); Shy Creation; 213-623-8900; shycreation.com
JEW EL E RS’ CHOI C E AWA RDS
B EST B R AC EL ET D ES I G N
Bracelet with rose-cut and round brilliantcut diamonds in 18k white gold; $38,960; Bapalal Keshavlal; 9122-2369-4211; bapalalkeshavlal.com
Bangle bracelet with 1.96 cts. t.w. round pavé-set diamonds; $5,700; Shy Creation; 213-623-8900; shycreation.com
14k yellow gold bracelet with 0.84 ct. t.w. diamonds; $2,040; Shy Creation
COLOR ED D I AMON D J EWE LRY
14k white gold, black and white diamond, and sapphire wide-band ladies’ ring; $2,100; Gabriel & Co.; 212-519-1400; gabrielny.com
Bonding of BluLove ring in 18k two-tone gold with 0.54 ct. natural fancy light blue diamond, 0.54 ct. natural fancy light pink diamond, and 0.74 ct. t.w. white accent diamonds; $60,000; Neon Gems Inc.; 213-627-0433; neongems.com
(PREVIOUS SPREAD) NECKLACES IN 14K YELLOW GOLD WITH 0.04 CT. AND 0.05 CT. DIAMOND, $420–$450, 14K YELLOW GOLD RING WITH 0.08 CT. DIAMOND, $560, GABRIEL & CO., 212-519-1400, GABRIELNY.COM; DIAMOND CIGAR BAND IN 14K YELLOW GOLD WITH 0.46 CT. T.W. PAVÉ DIAMONDS, $1,805, ERINESS, 310-488-6361, ERINESS.COM; DELICATE CRESCENT BAND IN 14K YELLOW GOLD, $600, ANNA SHEFFIELD, 212-925-7010, ANNASHEFFIELD.COM; 18K YELLOW GOLD CUFF WITH 2.85 CTS. T.W. CHAMPAGNE DIAMONDS, $15,000, SYLVA & CIE, 213-488-1444, SYLVACIE.COM
JEW EL E RS’ CHOI C E AWA RDS
B EST EARRI N G D ES I G N
G R A ND P R I ZE
Moderne Deco earrings with 2.73 cts. t.w. baguette and round brilliantcut diamonds in 18k rose gold; $10,595; Penny Preville; 516-466-8680 x107; pennypreville.com
Handcrafted Australian opal and mint garnet earrings in 18k white gold; $6,195; Parlé Jewelry Designs; 800-635-9800; parlegems.com
14k yellow gold ascending star drop earrings with 0.51 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,320; Shy Creation; 213-623-8900; shycreation.com
GOL D J EWE LRY 15
Burst of Sparkles pendant in 18k white and rose gold with 0.97 ct. t.w. white diamonds and 1 ct. t.w. light pink diamonds; $5,000; Neon Gems Inc.; 213-627-0433; neongems.com
14k yellow gold vine ring with 0.49 ct. t.w. round brilliant diamonds; $1,680; Shy Creation; 213-623-8900; shycreation.com
JEW EL E RSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; CHOI C E AWA RDS
PLAT I N UM J EWE L RY 17
Truffle of Love wrap-around ring in platinum with 1.36 ct. fancy natural yellow princess-cut diamond, 1.51 ct. rich deep brown truffle princesscut diamond, and 1.5 cts. t.w. white accent diamonds; $15,000; Neon Gems Inc.; 213-627-0433; neongems.com
B EST N ECKLAC E D ES I G N
Handwoven twotone rose and white gold mesh necklace with 8.54 cts. t.w. natural fancy color diamonds; $35,000; Neon Gems Inc.; 213-627-0433; neongems.com
Draped choker necklace in 14k gold with 0.77 ct. t.w. diamonds; $2,900; Shy Creation; 213-623-8900; shycreation.com
Seven-star necklace with 0.35 ct. t.w. round diamonds in 14k gold; $1,000; Shy Creation
8 mm ring in platinum and carbon fiber with 0.15 ct. princess-cut diamond and 18k rose gold screws; $9,999; Malo Creations; 450-682-6561; malobands.com
JEW EL E RSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; CHOI C E AWA RDS
B EST RI N G D ES I G N
Hand-engraved Tesoro ring with 12.26 ct. cushion Santa Maria aquamarine and 0.6 ct. t.w. round diamonds in 18k white and rose gold; $32,950; Dallas Prince Designs; 310-625-0200; dallasprincedesigns.com
Carlex collection ring in hammered 18k white gold with Florentine yellow gold pattern and hand-painted blue enamel interior set with 10 diamonds; $2,795; CrownRing; 514-381-1589; carlexcollection.com
Handmade 14k gold ginkgo leaf ring with 0.2 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,100; Marika Desert Gold; 97-29-885-4007; marikadesertgold.com
TA N ZAN I TE J EWE LRY
Cloveresque necklace with sugarloaf-cut tanzanites and round brilliantcut diamonds in 18k white gold; $18,900; C. Krishniah Chetty & Sons; 91-974-001-8419; ckcsons.com
Handcrafted 18k rose gold earrings with bezel-set diamonds and tanzanite centers; $1,859; Beverley K; 619-465-4789; beverleyk.com
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JEW EL E RS’ CHOI C E AWA RDS
D I AMON D J EWE LRY 27
Wheel of Elegance cuff in 18k rose and white gold with 4.1 cts. t.w. natural pink diamonds and 1.35 cts. t.w. micro pavé-set white diamonds; $18,000; Neon Gems Inc.; 213-627-0433; neongems.com
Trophy bracelet in 14k gold with diamonds (also available in 18k gold and platinum); starting at $6,500; Alon Vivat; 213-622-5870; vivatandco.com
14k yellow gold bridge ring with 1.08 cts. t.w. baguette and round diamonds; $2,480; Shy Creation; 213-6238900; shycreation.com
PEA R L J EWE LRY
Hand-carved 15 mm Tahitian Galatea pearl drop pendant with citrine drop, pink tourmaline, ruby and citrine seeds, yellow lab-created diamond drusy “pollen,” and pink enamel flower and green enamel leaves in 14k yellow gold setting; $3,500; Galatea: Jewelry by Artist; 909-592-0877; galateausa.com
14k white gold pendant with 8.5 mm akoya pearl, sapphire, and topaz; $2,350; Alamea Hawaii; 808-922-5333; alameahawaii.com
lesgeorgettes.com - Trademark, registered designs and patents pending - Copyright ÂŠ 2018 Altesse
The Original customizable jewelry with interchangeable colors
An original creation by Altesse Paris Made in France
Booth B21147 - email@example.com
JEW EL E RS’ CHOI C E AWA RDS
COLOR ED STONE J EWE LRY
Bella Verde 14k rose gold ring with pavé diamonds and 2.89 ct. Colombian emerald in 18k yellow gold setting; $28,500; Liberty Diamonds; 949-261-8663; libertydiamonds.com
Art Deco– inspired 18k white gold ring with diamonds, onyx, and French-cut blue sapphires; $4,389; Beverley K; 619-465-4789; beverleyk.com
33 Ring with 13+ cts. t.w. blue-green tourmaline baguettes and diamond accents on 18k yellow gold; $2,200; Anye; 213-489-1388; anyedesigns.com
MEN’S J EWE LRY
Men’s Link band with 14k yellow gold chain and 0.67 ct. t.w. diamonds in white gold; $2,300; Shy Creation; 213-623-8900; shycreation.com
Hydra lapis lazuli inlaid titanium 10 mm wedding ring with polished beveled edges and round blue diamonds; $400; Thorsten; 888-209-4757; thorstenrings.com
MAY 28-31, 2018 SHOW HOURS Monday-Wednesday: 10 am-6 pm Thursday: 10 am-4 pm
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JEW EL E RS’ CHOI C E AWA RDS
SI LVER J EWE LRY
Nuvo bracelet in textured sterling silver with 14k gold and 0.53 ct. t.w. diamonds; $5,250; Vahan Jewelry; 914-937-1800; vahanjewelry.com
Sterling silver bangle with yellow gold plating; $599; Breuning; 678-377-1673; breuning.us
CON TE M POR ARY META L J EWE LRY
Men’s wedding band with Gibeon meteorite, handmade Damascus steel, and natural Padauk hardwood; $1,549; Lashbrook; 801-352-7388; lashbrookdesigns.com
Hyperion lava inlaid gold-plated titanium 10 mm wedding ring with polished beveled edges and round black diamonds; $500; Thorsten; 888-209-4757; thorstenrings.com
Bubbles Celebration necklace in rose gold–plated sterling silver; $390; Frederic Duclos; 714-898-3636; fredericduclos.com
JEW EL E RS’ CHOI C E AWA RDS
M I XE D META L J EWE LRY
Plumeria ear climber in three-tone 14k gold with 0.189 ct. t.w. diamonds; $775; Maui Divers Jewelry; 800-2536016; mauidivers.com
Twist open cuff bracelet in 24k hammered fusion gold and oxidized sterling silver with 0.28 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,760; Lika Behar Collection; likabehar@ likabehar.com; likabehar.com
B EST PR ICE PO I N T 44
Bar necklace in 14k yellow gold with 0.29 ct. t.w. diamonds; $935; Gabriel & Co.; 212-519-1400; gabrielny.com
Ladies’ ring in 14k yellow gold with 0.05 ct. t.w. diamonds; $440; Gabriel & Co.
JEW EL E RS’ CHOI C E AWA RDS
FAS H ION/ B R ID GE J EWE LRY
Oxidized Octopus necklace with larimar and blue spinel in white and black rhodium–plated sterling silver (with 21-inch silver popcorn chain); $291; Marahlago; 310-910-3833; marahlago.com
Leilano bangle in 24k gold–plated sterling silver with brilliant-cut zirconia; $799; Bernd Wolf; 49-766-198-6666; berndwolf.com
An American Wedding Deserves An American Made Band TM
JEW EL E RSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; CHOI C E AWA RDS
PE RSONAL I ZED J EWE LRY (BEADS, CHARMS, MESSAGI NG, INSPIR ATIONAL)
14k yellow gold locket necklace with 1.08 cts. t.w. diamonds; $3,380; Gabriel & Co.; 212-519-1400; gabrielny.com
Engravable Wedding and Anniversary Keepsake Heart in sterling silver with removable precision screw; $315 (also available in yellow and white gold, platinum, and stainless steel); Kindred Keepsake Jewelry; 877-265-7994; kindredkeepsake.com
LAB - GROWN D I A MOND AND/ OR G EMSTON E J EWE LRY
ALL PRICE POINTS
Lassaire in Motion earrings with frameless simulated diamonds and labgrown sapphires in sterling silver bonded with platinum and 14k gold components; $290; Lafonn; 855-2-LAFONN; lafonn.com
Colored Diamond Jewelry $10,000 & Under Gabriel & Co. CURRENTS S10405
Colored Diamond Jewelry Over $10,000 Neon Gems Inc. LUX-1032
Lab-Grown Diamond and/or Gemstone Jewelry All Prices Lafonn BRIDGE B13155
Pearl Jewelry $2,500 & Under Alamea Hawaii BRIDGE B15147
Silver Jewelry $500 & Under Frederic Duclos DESIGN CENTER B18136
Silver Jewelry $501–$1,000 Breuning PLUMB CLUB PC 225
Diamond Jewelry $2,500 & Under
Pearl Jewelry Over $2,500
Silver Jewelry Over $1,000
Shy Creation LUX-1836
Galatea: Jewelry by Artist DESIGN CENTER B14129
Vahan Jewelry LUX-127
Tanzanite Jewelry $10,000 & Under
Contemporary Metal Jewelry $500 & Under
Diamond Jewelry $2,501–$10,000 Alon Vivat FIRST LOOK B26158
Diamond Jewelry Over $10,000 Neon Gems Inc. LUX-1032
Colored Stone Jewelry $2,500 & Under Anye FIRST LOOK B25131
Colored Stone Jewelry $2,501–$10,000 Beverley K LUX-P1909
Colored Stone Jewelry Over $10,000 Liberty Diamonds
Beverley K LUX-P1909
Tanzanite Jewelry Over $10,000 C.Krishniah Chetty & Sons
Platinum Jewelry $10,000 & Under Malo Creations BRIDAL B60019
Thorsten BRIDAL B60030
Contemporary Metal Jewelry Over $500 Lashbrook BRIDAL B60071
Mixed Metal Jewelry $1,000 & Under Maui Divers Jewelry
Platinum Jewelry Over $10,000 Neon Gems Inc. LUX-1032
Gold Jewelry $2,500 & Under Shy Creation LUX-1836
Gold Jewelry Over $2,500 Neon Gems Inc. LUX-1032
Booth numbers as of May issue close 4/4/18.
Mixed Metal Jewelry Over $1,000 Lika Behar Collection LUX-P1921
Fashion/Bridge Jewelry $500 & Under Marahlago LUX-1737
CONGRATULATIONS TO THE 2018 JEWELERS’ CHOICE AWARDS FIRST PLACE WINNERS! Be sure to visit all the winners at this year’s JCK Las Vegas show.
Fashion/Bridge Jewelry Over $500 Bernd Wolf GmbH DESIGN CENTER B16129
Personalized Jewelry (Beads, Charms, Messaging, Inspirational) $500 & Under Kindred Keepsake jewelry FIRST LOOK B25161
Personalized Jewelry (Beads, Charms, Messaging, Inspirational) Over $500 Gabriel & Co. CURRENTS S10405
Men’s Jewelry $1,000 & Under Thorsten BRIDAL B60030
Men’s Jewelry Over $1,000 Shy Creation LUX-1836
Best Price Point $500 & Under Gabriel & Co. CURRENTS S10405
Best Price Point $501–$1,000 Gabriel & Co. CURRENTS S10405
Best Earring Design $2,500 & Under GRAND PRIZE WINNER Shy Creation LUX-1836
Best Earring Design $2,501–$10,000 Parlé Jewelry Designs LUX-1704
Best Earring Design Over $10,000
Best Necklace Design $2,500 & Under Shy Creation LUX-1836
Best Necklace Design $2,501–$10,000 Shy Creation LUX-1836
Best Necklace Design Over $10,000 Neon Gems Inc. LUX-1032
Best Bracelet Design $2,500 & Under Shy Creation LUX-1836
Best Bracelet Design $2,501–$10,000 Shy Creation LUX-1836
Best Bracelet Design Over $10,000 Bapalal Keshavlal LUX-P1820
Best Ring Design $2,500 & Under
Best Bridal Design $2,500 & Under Shy Creation LUX-1836
Best Bridal Design $2,501–$5,000 Shy Creation LUX-1836
Best Bridal Design $5,001–$10,000 Gabriel & Co. CURRENTS S10405
Best Bridal Design Over $10,000
Neon Gems Inc. LUX-1032
Best Ring Design $2,501–$10,000
Best Statement Piece $10,000–$30,000
Best Ring Design Over $10,000 Dallas Prince Designs DESIGN CENTER B17128
Best Statement Piece Over $30,000 Parlé Jewelry Designs LUX-1704
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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY
A DEEP DIVE INTO VARIETIES, AVAILABILITY, PRICING, AND TOP TRENDS
PEARLS (GO FOR BAROQUE!)
MAGNIFICENT is MODERN South Sea Pearls emerge as bold new classics: Bejeweled bubbles, baubles and bangles. The Bubble Collection by Sean Gilson for Assael. Worn with three ropes of South Sea Baroque Pearls.
FOR AN APPOINTMENT CALL 212.819.0060 OR INFO
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COUTURE SHOW MAY 31 THROUGH JUNE 4, LAFITE BALLROOM SALON 305
FROM THE EDITOR
R Natural white South Sea pearl ring in platinum with diamonds, $68,000, Jyeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s International, 866-633-8880, jyescorp.com; Indorussian opal and pearl earrings in 14k yellow gold and sterling silver, $3,200, Sanjay Kasliwal of the Gem Palace, 212-988-1511, sanjaykasliwal.com
WELCOME TO JCK â&#x20AC;&#x2122;S first annual pearl supplement, celebrating a gem like no other. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s because for all their enduring appeal, pearls are the anomalies of the jewelry world. Unlike most gemstones, which are mined from the earth, pearls are derived from living creatures known as mollusks. They owe their signature iridescence not to a mineral but to an organic material called nacre; the mollusk secretes it to protect itself from irritants that find their way into the fleshy part of its shell. Most unusual of all, pearls emerge from those shells as finished products, requiring no cutting or polishing to enhance their lustrous good looks. No wonder weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re wild for pearls and always have been. The worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most cutting-edge designers, whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve embraced the pearl in recent years, would no doubt agree. Time and again, they continue to use the cultured baubles in inventive styles that make the classic gem feel simultaneously fresh and new. To find out whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new in the pearl market, consult â&#x20AC;&#x153;Cultured Clubâ&#x20AC;? on page 8, contributor Martha C. Whiteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s primer on supplies, prices, and other key details about the pearls on everyoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most-wanted lists. Then apply that knowledge as you read up on the latest pearl jewelry trends in â&#x20AC;&#x153;Pearls! Pearls! Pearls!â&#x20AC;? on page 13 by JCK â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s All That Glitters blogger Amy Elliott, who recaps the seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most relevant pearl styles, a mix of pieces both familiar (hoop earrings, baroque shapes) and unusual (ombrĂŠ!). The key takeaway from our first section devoted entirely to pearls? The queen of gems continues her reign.
Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief firstname.lastname@example.org
PHOTOGRAPHY BY KENNETH WILLARDT; STYLING: SOLANGE FRANKLIN/THE WALL GROUP; HAIR: DJ QUINTERO/STATEMENT ARTISTS; MAKEUP: JUSTINE PURDUE/STREETERS USING NARS COSMETICS; MANICURIST: RACHEL SHIM/DERMELECT/ARTISTS BY TIMOTHY PRIANO; RETOUCHING: COLOR BY CLINICSTUDIO.COM; MODEL: AMANDA WELLSH/IMG
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CULTURED CLUB JCK’S SNAPSHOT OF THE PEARL MARKET TELLS YOU EVERY THING YOU NEED TO K N OW A B O U T C H A R AC T E R I S T I C S, P R I C I N G , A N D AVA I L A B I L I T Y
EARLS HAVE UPPED their game in recent seasons, going from traditional and classic to trendy and chic. Both supply and demand have risen—presenting opportunities and challenges for retailers who want to capitalize on their popularity while maintaining achievable price points. Below, we’ve assembled a primer on the six pearl varieties you’re most likely to find in jewelry collections. (Note: All of the varieties described are cultured, except for conch pearls.) —MARTHA C. WHITE
3 WHITE SOUTH
INTRODUCTION Cultured in the Hyriopsis cumingi and Cristaria plicata mussels, freshwater pearls have a reputation as entry-level pearls. For retailers, that means these gems are better suited for fashion-oriented rather than investment pieces.
Born of the Pinctada fucata or Pinctada radiata saltwater oyster, akoya pearls are widely considered the “classic” cultured pearl—the smallest and most affordable of the marine varieties, they are squeezed between freshwater pearls at the low end and South Sea pearls at the high end.
South Sea pearls are the crown jewels of statement-making pearl jewelry. A longer cultivation time inside the silver-lipped Pinctada maxima saltwater oyster and thicker nacre give these pearls a soft luster that is highly prized, but this also makes round specimens scarcer, and baroque pearls more common.
Most of the market ranges from roughly 6 mm to 9.5 mm; akoyas’ thinner nacre coating relative to South Sea pearls gives them a shinier luster.
The white variety can be pure white to cream-colored, sometimes with subtle overtones of pink, green, or blue. They generally range from roughly 10 mm to 18 mm in size, and can top out as large as 20 mm to 22 mm, with most falling in the 13 mm to 15 mm range.
Akoyas were first cultivated in Japan around the start of the 20th century; these methods were adopted by the Chinese, who came to dominate akoyas. But today, buyers say Japan is the primary source again, with China ceding the majority of the industry back to the akoya’s original country of origin.
White South Sea pearls are produced across the South Pacific, east to the Indian Ocean, and off the northern coast of Australia.
Buyers say robust production has led to a bifurcated market: Prices for lower-quality specimens are falling, while they have risen at the top end.
Demand from the U.S. and Chinese markets has risen while production has been crimped by storms and pollution, inflating prices.
For good quality, a strand of 8 mm to 9 mm akoya pearls generally costs between $1,000 and $1,500, according to dealers.
A high-quality strand of 12 mm to 15 mm South Sea pearls fetches between $10,000 and $15,000, while scarcity has driven up prices for top-quality strands to $20,000–$30,000.
CHARACTERISTICS Freshwater pearls range significantly in both size and color, coming in generally between 4 mm and 14 mm. They come in a variety of natural colors: white, cream, yellow, orange, pink, and light purple, with overtones of pink, blue, and/or green.
PLACE OF ORIGIN The lion’s share of freshwater pearl production today comes out of China, where they are farmed in lakes and rivers.
CURRENT SUPPLY FORECAST Although dealers say quality has improved as production has grown, they add that finding high-end freshwater pearls can be more challenging, and the price premium they command can put them on par with akoya pearls of similar size and
CURRENT PRICING A 16-inch strand of 9 mm to 10 mm freshwater pearls—a typical size—at the high end of the quality spectrum can be found for $500 to $700.
1. Polished cage chain necklace with 15 mm–18 mm white baroque freshwater pearls on a 37-inch 18k yellow gold chain; $3,630; Mastoloni; 800-347-3275; mastoloni.com 2. 14k gold akoya pearl large safety pin earrings; $800; Mizuki; firstname.lastname@example.org; mizukijewelry.com 3. Kobe drop cuff with 12 mm South Sea pearls and pavé diamond rim in 18k yellow gold; $9,900; Belpearl; email@example.com; belpearl.com SPRING 2018
4 GOLDEN SOUTH SEA
INTRODUCTION These visually stunning cousins of white South Sea pearls, birthed by the golden-lipped Pinctada maxima oyster, are as prized as they are rare—and also threatened.
Tahitian pearls are the black variety of white and golden South Sea pearls, and are produced by the black-lipped Pinctada margaritifera (cumingi ) saltwater oyster.
These vivid pink pearls might not have the luster of their Pacific cousins, but they are highly valuable in their own right.
Often called “black” pearls, Tahitians actually come in a rainbow of grays, browns, deep blues, greens, and purples. Most produced today range from 8 mm to 11 mm, but they can go up to 20 mm in size.
Conch pearls are small and porcelaneous (that is, nonnacreous), and range in color from the palest pink to nearly red. They are measured in carats rather than millimeters for commercial purposes, with 6 to 8 cts. typical. A pearl larger than 10 cts. is extremely rare.
Despite the name, Tahitian pearls are grown across French Polynesia, a group of islands and atolls in the middle of the South Pacific Ocean.
Grown by a type of giant sea snail in the Caribbean waters around the Bahamas and Bermuda, these pearls occur naturally and are a byproduct of conch shell fishing.
Buyers say supply and demand have been steady, with smaller pearls readily available; large specimens without irregular shapes or blemishes, however, are scarce.
Conch pearls have become more popular over the past five years or so. Their entirely natural formation combined with restrictions to prevent overfishing makes these pearls exceptionally rare.
Buyers say a strand of 12 mm Tahitians can cost $5,000 to $10,000, depending on size and quality.
Their rarity and size make conch pearls extremely expensive gems. A single pearl might cost $10,000.
CHARACTERISTICS The yellow color of these pearls ranges from pale straw to rich gold, like the metal. They’re slightly smaller than their white counterparts, generally in the 9 mm to 14 mm range. Specimens above 14 mm are very rare, and these top out a few millimeters below their white counterparts, at about 18 mm.
PLACE OF ORIGIN Golden South Seas are produced primarily in Indonesia, Myanmar, and the Philippines. Indonesian producers are said to produce higher-quality golden pearls.
CURRENT SUPPLY FORECAST As with white South Sea pearls, producers must contend with pollution that can injure the oysters and storms that can disturb the beds.
CURRENT PRICING Thanks to strong Chinese demand, a strand of the highest-quality 10 mm golden South Sea pearls wholesales in the $17,500 to $20,000 range; a 12 mm strand could be twice that.
4. 12.4 mm–12.9 mm golden South Sea cultured pearl drops with 4.12 cts. t.w. black and 3.7 cts. t.w. brown diamonds in 18k rose gold; $14,200; Reho Concepts for Assael; 212-819-0060; assael.com 5. Diamond floral ring with 1.36 cts. t.w. diamonds and 14 mm Tahitian pearl in sterling silver; $1,850; Vincent Peach; 615-378-1374; vincentpeach.com 6. Natural conch pearl two-in-one flower necklace and brooch with 28.12 cts. t.w. conch, 1.59 cts. t.w. diamonds, and 0.57 ct. t.w. rubies in platinum; $59,985; Tara; 888-575-TARA; tarapearls.com JCKONLINE.COM
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PEARLS! FRESHWATER BAROQUE PEARLS WITH 18K GOLD CLASP, $4,450, 18K GOLD REMOVABLE PENDANT WITH 25.27 CT. FACETED AQUAMARINE AND 0.2 CT. T.W. DIAMONDS, $5,270; THE MAZZA CO.; 800-654-3400; MAZZAJEWELRY.COM
PEARLS! YO U ’ R E A LWAY S F U L LY S TO C K E D W I T H W H I T E S T U D S A N D J AC K I E K E N N E DY – S T Y L E T R I P L E S T R A N D S, B U T W H AT D O YO U N E E D TO K E E P P E A R L L OV E R S O N T R E N D T H I S S E A S O N? J C K H A S YO U C OV E R E D. BY AMY ELLIOTT
White freshwater fluid gold pearl XL rod hoops; $5,320 (sold as pair); Mizuki; info@ mizukijewelry.com; mizukijewelry.com
PEARLS 15 T MAY SEEM counterintuitive to consider pearl jewelry in the context of fashion trends—after all, a string of pearls is a perennial classic, regardless of what’s happening on the runways. But looking ahead, a survey of the fall 2018 shows in New York City and London points to a whole new morning for pearls, and with it, opportunities to bring your customers ever-new and exciting options, from open rings and statement cuffs to convertible earrings. That pearls popped up as a favorite new motif everywhere from Michael Kors to Erdem means looking critically at your fall and holiday assortment of traditional pearl jewelry and peppering in designs with an edgier, more fashion-forward feel. To help guide your selections, we spoke with retailers, pearl designers, and our industry’s top jewelry trend spotters. The takeaway? Shop with an eye for day-to-evening versatility. Consider the asymmetrical and unusual. And if you can picture it with jeans and a leather jacket, go for it. Read on for insider tips and an overview of the trends to jump on now.
Twins hoop earring with freshwater pearl and emeralds in 18k yellow gold; £650 ($915) each (sold as singles); Delfina Delettrez; delfinadelettrez.com
HOOP EARRINGS “Hoops are the thing for sure when it comes to pearl jewelry in the fashion world,” says Lauren Kulchinsky Levison, owner of Mayfair Rocks in East Hampton, N.Y. Having attended both the New York and London fashion weeks in February, the jeweler observed pearl embellishments—and jewelry—in abundance on the runway. She was also seen at several shows wearing a pair of coastersize pearl hoops, custom-made for her by “one of the industry’s top pearl artists.” Featuring mixed baroque pearls in shades of pink, white, and blue, Levison’s hoops attracted the attention of buyers, designers, makeup artists, and editors, many of whom went on to place personal orders. The earrings also caught the eye of street-style photographers. “They know what’s up,” Levison says. “They look for what’s new; I assume the jewelry industry will get it in a breath or two if what I was photographed in is any barometer.” While the cognoscenti are newly enamored of pearl hoops— the bigger the better—top pearl merchants will likely evolve (and enlarge) their hoop styles in the coming seasons, with pearls dotting the circumference like spokes on a wheel, or all the way around like a pearl collar in miniature.
Faceted aquamarine and square freshwater baroque coin pearl and diamond 18k yellow gold bracelet; $9,845; The Mazza Co.; 800-654-3400; mazzajewelry.com
BAROQUE SHAPES Consider the athleisure trend, and how millennials tend to favor included and otherwise imperfect gems that reflect the vagaries of Mother Nature, and the current appetite for baroque pearls is not surprising. “As the country continues to move into a more informal style, baroques are embraced for their casual and individual appeal,” says Amanda Gizzi, jewelry style expert and director of public relations and special events for Jewelers of America. Mastoloni Pearls in New York City and Nashville-based designer Vincent Peach have successfully debuted baroque pearl styles that deliver on the promise of taking a customer from the conference room to a cocktail party. “Our pearls have an everyday feel to them,” affirms Peach, who often pairs pearls with leather cords and equestrian-inspired clasps. “I design for consumers who want something versatile and beautiful.” Meanwhile, other designers have chosen to explore the asymmetrical shapes and nuanced colors offered by luxurious Tahitian and South Sea baroques, encasing the gems with lashings of diamonds or creating deliberately mismatched earrings (a popular look on the red carpet). “Designers like Savannah Stranger, Mizuki, and Sophie Buhai are using them beautifully and artistically,” says Marion Fasel, founder and editorial director of online fine jewelry magazine The Adventurine.
Pendant with baroque pearl and 0.93 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $10,532; Yael Designs; 415-989-9235; yaeldesigns.com
Natural-color South Sea and radiant orchid freshwater pearls with 9.61 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; price on request; Yoko London; 917-2138161; yokolondon.com
OMBRÉ Pearl strands strung in a light-to-dark progression of tones reflect a trend that’s been thriving across all aspects of fashion, from wedding cakes to workout gear. Tonal color-blocking always looks modern, and jewelry designers have embraced the trend by clustering light blue, periwinkle, and cornflower blue sapphire melee in a brooch, for example, or placing a row of oval, pastel-to-deep pink tourmalines in a prong-set ring. Now that neutral-colored stories are gaining momentum in pearl jewelry, an ombré pearl necklace that starts out white, moves to gray or silver, and culminates in a spectrum of blue to black tones feels new and exciting. Like baroque pearls, it’s also a quick and easy way to indulge a pearl craving that in no way resembles what your mother or grandmother wore— the reigning consumer mindset, according to the pearl experts we consulted.
Tahitian and white South Sea 10 mm x 11 mm bracelet with a sterling silver black rhodium magnetic clasp; $680; Baggins; 213-624-2277; bagginspearls.com
18k white gold earrings with 37.1 cts. t.w. pearls, 1.61 cts. t.w. diamonds, and 1.51 cts. t.w. paraiba tourmalines; $23,003; Yael Designs; 415-9899235; yaeldesigns.com
PEARLS 21 Moonstone, diamond, and pearl eternity earrings with Tahitian baroque Dracula pearls; price on request; Featherstone Fine Jewelry; 212-3430604; featherstone design.com
SHADES OF GRAY The American Gem Trade Association reports a strong interest in gray and silver Tahitian, South Sea, and akoya pearls, with semi-round and baroque akoya pearls in this color family among the most desirable. “Prices are still reasonable in the 6to 9-millimeter size, but dealers say that this may not last long,” says AGTA’s CEO, Douglas K. Hucker. Why? “It doesn’t sound glamorous, but the silver-gray color and shape of the akoya is due to a bacterial infection that alters the oyster’s environment,” says Anil Maloo, president of Baggins, a pearl company based in Los Angeles. In other words, it’s a happy accident that suppliers can’t quite control. “The color is gorgeous, but difficult to obtain,” adds Maloo, whose firm has become a go-to source for these akoyas while they’re still available. Consumer demand for gray-toned jewels is a reflection of the color’s popularity not only in fashion but also in other jewelry categories such as engagement rings and chunky bead necklaces hung with pendants. “I believe the silver color adds a cool factor to the traditional reputation of pearls much in the same way gray diamonds and moonstones are a little edgier than white diamonds or blue moonstones,” Fasel says. As in other jewelry categories, the combo of gray pearls with vibrant colored gemstones is especially appealing. “The grays play extremely well with the green tones of tsavorite, chrome diopside, or emerald,” says designer Steven Mazza of The Mazza Co. in New York City.
Aquagems LLC Tel: 808-261-5554 Fax: 808-261-5557 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Aquagems carries an exquisite wide selection of South Sea and Tahitian natural colored cultured pearl jewelry in 925 sterling silver, 14k gold, and 18k gold.
Hanadama Pearls 1248 Bel Air Road Los Angeles, CA 90077 Tel: 310-440-2159 Fax: 310-476-2756 Email: email@example.com “Hanadama”: Literally, spherical flower. In the pearl world, the cream of the crop! Herein lies 55 years of tradition. We exclusively inventory higher and top quality pearls. Hanadama Pearls, your South Sea pearl specialist.
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62 W. 47th St., Suite 409 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-575-9333 Fax: 212-221-7204 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org As a founding member of the Cultured Pearl Association of America, Frankl Trading helped create today’s pearls standards. Check out our collection of elegant pearls, gemstones, and diamond jewelry as well as great discounts for pearl closeouts readily available. JCK Las Vegas Booth B24129
Galatea Jewelry by Artist 247 W. Bonita Ave. San Dimas, CA 91773 Tel: 909-592-0877 Fax: 909-592-1837 Email: email@example.com Website: galateausa.com
Baggins Pearls 510 W. Sixth St., Suite 416 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-624-2277 Fax: 213-624-2278 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: bagginspearls.com
Introducing The Bible Pearl™, the first jewelry that contains the complete Bible. It’s the Word of God combined with NFC technology in a piece of fine jewelry to be worn every day.
Winner of the 2012, 2013, and 2014 AGTA Spectrum Awards for Best Use of Pearls, Baggins is one of the premier pearl companies, specializing in natural color Tahitian, South Sea, and akoya pearls. Baggins carries an extensive line of finished 14k and 18k gold pearl jewelry.
607 S. Hill St., Suite 544 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-612-0252 Fax: 213-612-0686 Email: email@example.com Website: continentalpearl.com
415 Madison Ave., 22nd Floor New York, NY 10017 Tel: 212-757-7278 Fax: 212-582-0884 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: mastoloni.com
We specialize in Tahitian, South Sea, akoya, and keshi pearls at great wholesale prices. We carry both loose pearls and pearl strands. Continental Pearl has been serving the jewelry industry since 1966. Please visit us at JCK Las Vegas.
Worn solo or stacked, Mastoloni’s Sorrento collection bar bracelets feature luminous white round cultured or akoya pearls capped off with a gold bar accented by distinctive patterns of shimmering white pavé diamonds. Visit our website: mastoloni.com.
SF Pearls & Jewelry Mfg.
38 W. 48th St., Suite 201 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 401-263-6196/212-391-4241 Email: email@example.com Website: epearlfarm.com; wishpearlwholesale.com
589 Fifth Ave., Suite 1154 New York, NY 10017 Tel: 212-819-0060 Fax: 212-764-1965
Wholesale “Wish Pearls” and cages, freshwater pearls, akoya pearls, South Sea and Tahitian pearls, and jewelry. We manufacture silver, gold, and diamond jewelry for pearls and engagement rings. JCK Las Vegas Booth B26120
Assael is North America’s foremost purveyor of rare South Sea and akoya pearls, and ethically sourced gem coral. The name Assael ensures a passionate commitment to quality, craftsmanship, and service to our retail partners.
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SUPER PEARLS You weren’t seeing things: Pearls were ubiquitous during the fall 2018 runway shows
Backstage at Emilia Wickstead’s fall 2018 London show
BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO
AS JACKIE KENNEDY once said, “Pearls are always appropriate.” Who knew that decades later fashion designers would still be following that maxim? From New York to Paris to London, the fall 2018 runways were practically awash in pearls: Michael Kors’ girls sported double strands—some with cheeky rhinestone bows—under chunky (faux) fur coats and atop preppy Argyle sweaters. Prabal Gurung, artistic director at pearl-heavy jewelry brand Tasaki, accessorized his models with gumball-size
pearl ear cuffs and studs, as well as sweeping single-earring shoulder-dusters. At Erdem, caged pearl earrings and pearl-and-gemstone drops complemented the ’20s-esque eveningwear (pearls even dangled from some of the dresses). Valentino accented its oh-so-’80s oversize floral prints and flowing tunics with mismatched pearl ear jackets and climbers. And at Emilia Wickstead, dainty pearl drops— and delicate pearl details atop her ladylike designs—were the thing. Always appropriate.
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SERPENT SHINE These sibling serpents are
brought the earrings to life were able to overcome what Villegas cited as the biggest design challenge: figuring out “how to create something big and bold without it being extremely heavy.”
part of a larger collection, Chromatic Paradise, informed by Mexico, and were forged in 18k yellow gold with 3.7 cts. t.w. sapphire and 83.9 cts. t.w. agate and jasper. At press time, the earrings were for sale at Los Angeles boutique Just One Eye, priced at $20,000.
SECOND SKIN Villegas used snakes in the design because “serpents and snakes represent fertility and a creative life force,” she says. “As snakes shed their skin through sloughing, they are symbols of rebirth, transformation, immortality, and healing.”
VIVA MEXICO! JEWELRY DESIGNER DANIELA Villegas’ native Mexico inspired her to create these earthy, opulent earrings, which she named after an ancient Mesoamerican god, Quetzalcóatl. The design boasts a pair of slithering snakes reminiscent of the Mexican flag (which features an eagle eating a rattlesnake) and a mélange of gemstones meant to reflect the nation’s vibrant spirit. “Mexico is a very colorful, eclectic, and fun country,” says the designer, “and I wanted to show that.” —EMILI VESILIND
1 CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION
MAKE WITH TRADITION Toronto-based designer Anne Sportun has been creating alternative engagement rings featuring colored gems for decades. But her latest bridal collection is a detour into more classic territory. The 11-piece line includes a handful of finished rings (among them: two cocktail-size styles that boast stunning rose-cut colored stones). And there are even more feminine-feeling halo mounts—modern heirlooms with vintage hallmarks such as milgrain, pavé-set shanks, and scalloped edges. —EV
14k gold halo mount with 18 pavé diamonds; $3,300 (without center stone)
4 14k gold cushion double halo mount with 36 pavé diamonds; $3,225 (without center stone)
Ava 18k rose gold ring with 0.33 ct. center and 12 accent diamonds; $5,060
TWICE AS NICE A chic alternative to classic solitaire and three-stone engagement styles, the two-stone diamond ring is emerging as an in-demand style for modern brides. Blame it on the recent swell of innovative two-stone designs from fashion-forward bridal brands that boast bold elements such as open shanks and asymmetrically set stones. (We’re looking at you, Anita Ko, KatKim, and Bario Neal!) Double the fun, indeed. —EMILI VESILIND 1. Center of My Universe two-stone diamond bypass ring in 18k rose gold; price on request; Forevermark by Rahaminov; 203-524-5203; forevermark.com
2. Lash Dyad cluster ring in 18k reclaimed white gold with champagne diamond and half-moon white sapphire; $1,350; Bario Neal; wholesale@ bario-neal.com; bario-neal.com
3. 14k yellow gold ring with 0.23 ct. diamond and 0.03 ct. mint tourmaline; $3,148; Wwake; wholesale@wwake. com; wwake.com
4. Duét pear ring in 18k yellow gold with 0.78 ct. t.w. pear-cut diamonds; $6,000; KatKim; sales@ katkimfinejewelry. com; katkim finejewelry.com
5. Princess eternity ring in 18k rose gold with 0.31 ct. t.w. pavé diamonds and 0.4 ct. t.w. pearshape diamonds; $4,100; Anita Ko; firstname.lastname@example.org; anitako.com
18k yellow gold ring with faceted brilliant-cut morganite and 20 white diamonds; $2,550; Anne Sportun; wholesale@ annesportun.com; annesportun.com
TACORI PARTNERS WITH #SHINETOGETHER! SEE jckonline.com/topics/bridal FOR THAT AND MORE.
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TREASURE PLANET At JCK Tucson in February, New York Cityâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;based designer Dana 7+( :('',1* $11,9(56$5< .((36$.( 3(1'$17
Bronfman introduced her Earthly Delights collection â&#x20AC;&#x153;to challenge traditional perspectives on high jewelry,â&#x20AC;? she says. Using â&#x20AC;&#x153;earthy stonesâ&#x20AC;? such as chrysocolla, lapis lazuli, and rutilated quartzâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;like in this statement-making quartz-and-lapis doublet ringâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Bronfman has incorporated her signature Oculus design into each piece for a look that is out of this world. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;VICTORIA GOMELSKY
Earthly Delights doublet ring in 18k yellow gold with oval rutilated quartz over lapis lazuli and 0.15 ct. t.w. diamonds; $2,900; danabronfman.com
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AWESOME BLOSSOM â&#x20AC;&#x153;Bruised rainbowâ&#x20AC;? is how British designer Polly Wales describes the mix of multicolored sapphires and diamonds she uses for Blossom Crush, her latest collection of 18k yellow gold pieces that spotlight her intentionally imperfect (and much-copied) casting style. The medley of sapphires wrapping each piece includes deep purples, acid greens, warm peaches, and earthy teals. Says Wales: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s magic in this lush floral palette, inviting onlookers to lose themselves in the cobblestones of gold, sapphires, and diamonds.â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201D;EMILI VESILIND
BYPASS RINGS ARE BACK IN A BIG WAY! SEE jckonline.com/topics/coloredstones FOR THAT AND MORE.
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Blossom Crush Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Ornano padlock pendant in 18k yellow gold with diamonds and multicolored sapphires; $8,800 La Fontaine chain necklace in 18k yellow gold with diamonds and multicolored sapphires; $7,700 La MĂŠlinite skull ring in 18k yellow gold with diamonds and multicolored sapphires; $12,100; Polly Wales; 213-265-7064; pollywales.com
AGTA Gemfair Las Vegas 2018 at Mandalay Bay – BOOTH 211 Find delicious color that won’t stick to your teeth. Grab a handful and stack them high.
FIT TO BE TIED After watching his wife tie back his granddaughter’s hair with a ribbon, Adam Zalewski, founder of the Warsaw, Poland–based brand Parioli, was inspired to create diamond jewels that capture the fluid lines of a fabric strip. The resulting collection, Nastri, is a slice of jewelry heaven: Earrings, pendants, and rings fabricated with strips of white gold swirl into jaunty ripples, loops, and even knots and bows. Though the diamond-covered looks embody grownup glitz, there’s an undeniable youthful exuberance to these designs. —EMILI VESILIND 18k white gold and diamond pendant, $2,900, 18k white gold and diamond earrings, $6,890, 18k white gold and diamond ring, $4,800; Parioli; email@example.com; parioli.eu
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SISTER, SISTER Designer sisters Yarden and Oren Katz, founders of Los Angeles–based fine jewelry brand Carbon & Hyde, fused two of their collection’s favorite rings to create the Athena—a slightly domed, dual-finger ring set with two zigzagging rows of diamonds. The double dazzler is not only decidedly edgy but also drop-dead glamorous. —EV
Athena ring in 14k rose gold with 1.65 cts. t.w. diamonds; $4,600; carbonandhyde.com
MUST-SEE STACKABLE CHEVRON RINGS! SEE jckonline.com/topics/diamonds FOR THAT AND MORE.
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LUXURY W H AT D O E S L U X U RY M E A N T O YO U ?
J C K E X H I B I T O R S G I V E T H E I R U N F I LT E R E D TA K E S .
Marilyn 14k yellow gold 36-inch necklace with 7.5 cts. t.w. diamonds; $17,599; Facet Barcelona; 212-302-8200; facetbarcelona.com
18k rose gold ring with 3.1 cts. t.w. opaque diamonds; $5,940; Jennifer Dawes Design; 888-802-0880; dawes-design.com
Luna 14k yellow gold earrings with 59.8 cts. t.w. moonstone and 1.1 cts. t.w. diamonds; $7,750; The Mazza Co.; 800-654-3400; mazzajewelry.com
18k yellow gold bracelet with 7.96 cts. t.w. fancy vivid yellow diamonds; $70,000; Rahaminov Diamonds; 213-622-9866; rahaminov.com
LUXURY What does luxury mean to you? JCK exhibitors give their unfiltered takes (page 7). Plus: a visit to designer Jennifer Dawesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Santa Rosa, Calif., studio (page 18).
COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIKAEL SCHULZ Hair: Jerome Cultrera using Oribe for Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Atelier NYC Makeup: Kajsa Svanberg using Chanel for Art Department Stylist: Jessica Willis Manicurist: Roseann Singleton using Chanel for Art Department Model: Cai Lee at Wilhelmina
14k yellow gold 18-inch necklace with 0.55 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,499; Facet Barcelona
BOUTON rings · SIGNATURE & LOOPY bracelet · SNOWFL AKES LEAF pendant · 18K · finejewelr y @ tamaracomolli.com
COUTURE SHOW Wynn Las Vegas · May 31 - June 4, 2018 Salon 317
SOUTHAMPTON · LAKE TEGERNSEE · SYLT · PALM BEACH · MUNICH · MARBELLA · FORTE DEI MARMI Neiman Marcus and selected retailers www.tamaracomolli.com
“ W H AT D O E S LU X U RY M E A N TO YO U?”
W E A S K E D LU X U RY E X H I B I TO R S T H AT V E RY QU E S T I O N. T H E I R H E A RT F E LT A N S W E R S M I G H T S U R P R I S E YO U. BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY
S CONCEPTS GO, luxury is more nuanced than most. To some, it’s a breezy day on a pristine beach with nowhere to go and all day to get there. To others, it’s the tangible product of years of expertise and unparalleled craftsmanship—whether it’s a one-of-a-kind jewel, a hand-embroidered couture gown, or a bespoke pair of shoes. To distill the essence of a word many of us use on a daily basis, we asked 15 exhibitors at the 2018 LUXURY show in Las Vegas to reveal what luxury means to them. What they told us had nothing to do with opulence and everything to do with their own personal worldviews. Frank La Roux, senior vice president of sales and merchandising at New York City–based Color Jewels, summed it up thusly: “Jewelry is luxurious because it is handcrafted from precious metals and rare gemstones, but the biggest luxury jewelry brings is happiness to the person receiving or purchasing it.” We couldn’t have said it better ourselves!
JOHN ATENCIO FOUNDER, JOHN ATENCIO
Polar diamond earrings in 14k white gold with 0.21 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,185; John Atencio; 720-445-5292; johnatencio.com
“Luxury is that perfect blend of quality, uniqueness, and comfort. It tends to be understated and, for me, it is most often experiential. It is usually associated with a new place or new experience. It may be as simple as luxurious towels, an exotic bath oil, or an unexpectedly fragrant candle. Or, perhaps, a warm personal greeting and fine service in an elegant setting. It is that unique and unexpected attention to quality and comfort. Each creates a lasting feeling and each adds to the luxury experience.”
Amelia ring in 14k rose gold with diamonds and multicolored baguette gems; $1,675; My Story Fine Jewelry; concierge@my storyfinejewelry. com; mystory finejewelry.com
JACKIE COHEN FOUNDER, MY STORY FINE JEWELRY “Luxury, to me, is a state of being. It’s what feels indulgent. Something I wouldn’t do, eat, or buy for myself every day. As a full-time working single mom, free time is a luxury. And time alone (even if it’s only business travel) certainly feels extravagant to me. A warm bath and a glass of wine after a day at the beach, with sun-kissed skin, is a dreamy feeling to me. Maybe luxury is anything that makes you feel special. At the place I am in in my life, extra time feels special and makes me feel like when I get it, I truly deserve it.”
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Visit us at LUXURY JCK Las Vegas STAND LUX 1201 www.facetbarcelona.com | www.1ktgold.com | www.vivalagioia.us
EFFY HEMATIAN FOUNDER, EFFY
ERICA COURTNEY FOUNDER, ERICA COURTNEY “Luxury is waking up on soft, delicious sheets in the morning. It’s a perfect start to your busy day. Luxury, to me, is about a feeling, sometimes as simple as an outdoor dinner, with a perfect breeze and a nice bottle of wine. (Thinking of Pemba beach in Africa right now.)”
18k gold Etoile ring with 7.71 ct. paraiba tourmaline, 1.81 cts. t.w. paraiba tourmalines, and diamonds; $103,400; Erica Courtney; 323-938-2373; ericacourtney.com
“Most people think of expensive things, like Champagne and fancy cars, when they hear the word luxury. But to me, luxury is when you can take simple pleasures in the quality of something you own or an experience you enjoy. For nearly 40 years, I’ve designed handcrafted fine jewelry for everyone—no matter the budget or style. My customers wear my designs on the red carpet and also to the grocery store. That is luxury. It’s a state of mind.”
Sunset Opal collection pendant in 18k white gold with Ethiopian opal and diamonds; price on request; Effy; 212-944-0020; effyjewelry.com
LAUREN KESSLER FOUNDER, LAUREN K “Luxury is more discreet than it used to be. It could be a wonderful, candlelit bath with soft music after a long day, a great book, a dream car, a nap on a beach, some jewelry to make you feel pretty, a beautiful drive, an amazing trip, or an indulgent day of shopping, theater, and fine dining in the city. All of these things are unique; some have hefty price tags associated with them, while others cost nothing. That’s the point. It’s all about the connection one has to their own idea of luxury.” Joyce earrings in 18k yellow gold with 14.07 cts. t.w. pink and green tourmalines and 0.07 ct. t.w. diamonds; $3,650; Lauren K; firstname.lastname@example.org; laurenk.com
2008 • 2009 • 2010 • 2011 • 2012 2013 • 2014 • 2015 • 2016 • 2017 • 2018
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1-800-635-9800 • w w w.parlegems.com
FRANK LA ROUX SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT OF SALES AND MERCHANDISING, COLOR JEWELS “I grew up working on a farm in southern Illinois and luxury back then meant being able to afford a good pair of work boots and warm clothes. It’s funny how that perspective changes as we get older. To me luxury never really revolved around material possessions but was more about being able to afford a certain lifestyle for your family. Having a nice home, driving a nice car, wearing quality clothes, providing a great education for your children, and the ultimate luxury of good health are things I am grateful for every day.”
SYLVIE LEVINE PRINCIPAL DESIGNER AND OWNER, SYLVIE COLLECTION “My lifestyle is so fast-paced that a feeling of total disconnect in time and space is what luxury means to me. My most memorable experience of true luxury was when my husband took me to a small island off the coast of Thailand. The fact that I didn’t have to plan or think about anything was luxury for me. I was surrounded by beauty and extreme tranquility for a few days. To be able to step back and breathe in my surroundings is to experience true luxury.” SPRING 2018
18k white gold ring with 13.59 ct. tanzanite, 0.29 ct. t.w. baguette diamonds, and 1.18 cts. t.w. round diamonds; $18,500; Cirari; 212-7642823; cirari.com
Engagement ring in 14k white gold with 0.82 ct. t.w. diamonds; $3,895 (without center stone); Sylvie Collection; 800-992-3426, sylviecollection.com
EDDIE LEVIAN DESIGNER AND CEO, LE VIAN CORP. “Luxury is the experience that says, ‘I’m worth it.’ Once a guest walks through our magical doors, we must flawlessly and passionately deliver a five-star experience of the finest quality, inspired originality, great value, and superb service. We are trusted to symbolize our guests’ most important milestones in life. Luxury is making it memorable.”
STEVE MAZZA DESIGNER AND VICE PRESIDENT, THE MAZZA CO. “What an easy question, I thought, sitting at my desk full of some of our finest work. Then, I really started to think about the definition of luxury. After discarding the clichéd, I came to the conclusion that for me, time disconnected from the responsibilities of work and life— phones, email, etc.—is the greatest luxury. Whether it is a long weekend with my wife on our boat, a hike with the whole family, or even a quiet cup of coffee with no time limit, all represent what I truly yearn for every day.”
Couture ring in 18k Vanilla Gold and 18k Honey Gold with 4.25 ct. Chocolate Diamond and 1.125 cts. t.w. Vanilla Diamonds; $94,297; Le Vian; 877-2538426; levian.com
Aquamarine cabochon earrings in 14k yellow gold with sapphires, diamonds, and removable tassels; $4,750; The Mazza Co.; 800-654-3400; mazzajewelry.com
LUXURY | JCK 502 Toll-free: 877-77-MAKUR
Designs © MAKUR DESIGNS ®. All rights reserved. Made in the USA.
YEHOUDA SAKETKHOU FOUNDER, YAEL DESIGNS
NIVEET NAGPAL HEAD DESIGNER AND PRESIDENT, OMI PRIVÉ “Luxury is an emotion. It’s the opportunity to enjoy something you wouldn’t normally have access to, and it makes you feel exclusive. It’s not just something that’s expensive or out of reach; it’s something you don’t have the opportunity to do often. Luxury is family. I’ve worked very hard to build Omi Privé and outside of business, a huge luxury is time with my family. Luxury is celebration. Enjoying a fine glass of Hibiki 21 scotch and a Cohiba Cuban cigar with friends or a meaningful trip with my wife to Taormina, Sicily, are great luxuries.”
ASHWANI K. “SONNY” SETHI CEO, TARA “Traditionally, luxury was about extravagance not obtainable by all, but today luxury is more about the quality of one’s life. Luxury is making a woman feel her best when she puts on a Tara Pearls necklace that took me seven years to collect. It’s not just about acquiring a materialistic object but having social responsibility while creating art. Luxury is scouring the world and exhausting all my efforts to create one special masterpiece. Luxury is the blood and sweat that goes into these creations and the resulting appreciation and joy that each brings to the wearer.” SPRING 2018
Platinum ring with 6.73 ct. cushion-cut sapphire, 1.94 cts. t.w. cushion-cut sapphires, 1.24 cts. t.w. round sapphires, and 0.86 ct. t.w. diamonds; $100,000; Omi Privé; 877-6644367; omiprive.com
“Luxury is a rare combination where the right amount of elegance meets just the right amount of comfort. Providing personable, refined service that creates one-of-a-kind luxurious experiences is our goal. Yael Designs creates wearable works of art by personally picking the best-quality gems and checking every Yael creation after production. Luxury is timeless. Creating unforgettable jewelry heirlooms that will last throughout the years and be cherished forever is our goal and a standard of luxury.”
18k rose gold bracelet with 2.71 ct. morganite, 1.14 ct. white opal, and 0.37 ct. t.w. diamonds; $6,042; Yael Designs; 415-989-9235; yaeldesigns.com
Museum collection day-to-night necklace with graduated color 15 mm–16 mm Tahitian pearls, 1.49 cts. t.w. diamonds, and 18k white gold clasp; $47,985; Tara; 888-575-TARA; tarapearls.com
#MyKindofJewelry 212.869.9393 • www.skashi.com • email@example.com
VICTORIA TSE FOUNDER AND CEO, VTSE
PAUL TACORIAN CEO, TACORI “Luxury is legacy—building on decades of tradition and heritage, and redefining creative direction and designs with a refreshing emphasis on creating pieces that mark every moment that matters to the customer.”
RoyalT platinum wedding bands with 2.81 cts. t.w. diamonds, $13,990, 3.05 cts. t.w. diamonds, $18,490, 5.56 cts. t.w. diamonds, $27,190, and 2.27 cts. t.w. diamonds, $11,790; Tacori; 800-4219844; tacori.com
“For me, luxury means that a personal desire is added into my real life, whether it’s an item, a place, an experience, or quality time with my loved ones. The harder I work to make an aspirational goal into reality, the more significant the luxury is to me. Sometimes it’s splurging on a limited-edition Gucci Ophidia embroidered shoulder bag, and other times it’s being able to leave the office early to watch my son in a rowing competition alongside my other three kids and husband.”
18k rose gold earrings with 29.8 cts. t.w. unheated multicolored sapphires and diamonds; $19,000; VTse; 626-577-9288; vtsejewelry.com
SUSAN KLEMT WILLIAMS VICE PRESIDENT, ARTISTRY LTD. Colors of Paradise ring in 14k white gold with 8.49 ct. pink tourmaline and 0.17 ct. t.w. diamonds; $3,550; Artistry Ltd.; artistrylimited.com
“Luxury is sitting on Mauna Kea Beach on the Big Island of Hawaii during sunset. It is being unconsciously aware of the sound of the ocean lapping against the shore, the quiet chatter from other adults, and squeals of joy from children as they all relish the gifts of Mother Nature. Turning to the left, there is a beautiful bluff. To the right, the historic Mauna Kea hotel is nestled unassumingly into the landscape. This is luxury in paradise.”
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ETHICS & CLASS How Jennifer Dawes built her namesake jewelry brand on sustainability BY MATT VILLANO
Blockette cuff in 14k yellow gold with 0.92 ct. t.w. amethyst and 0.79 ct. t.w. iolite; $2,125; Jennifer Dawes Design; 888-802-0880; dawes-design.com
O MANY POSSIBILITIES. It’s one of Jennifer Dawes’ taglines for her Sonoma County, Calif.–based jewelry business, Jennifer Dawes Design, but it might as well be the mantra for her life. Known for
her modern organic aesthetic, vintage details, and holistic attitude toward art, Dawes has taken quite a circuitous path to where she is today. Along the way, she has sharpened her craft while evolving as a human being, embracing sustainability, and establishing herself as a true leader in the industry.
This year, Dawes celebrates her 18th year in business—a milestone she’s calling her “18k anniversary.” And for the 47-year-old native of Rye, N.Y., the excitement over creating new pieces that showcase the very best metalsmithing and gems is just as intense as ever. “I used to be really concerned that
my work was too diverse, that my biggest weakness was that I didn’t have this one look that most designers have,” she says. “What I’ve found is that it’s actually my biggest strength. I design from the heart. I let the materials lead. I’m not bogged down by a look. This is as authentic as it gets.”
Blockette rings in 18k yellow gold with 0.13 ct. blue sapphire and 0.34 ct. t.w. lavender sapphire baguettes, $1,625, 0.64 ct. kite-shape pale green opaque diamond and 0.9 ct. t.w. creamy opaque diamond baguettes, $2,775, 0.87 ct. indicolite center and 0.34 ct. t.w. green sapphires, $1,525, 0.43 ct. diamond center and 0.25 ct. t.w. diamond side stones, $5,375, 0.43 ct. rhodolite garnet and 0.37 ct. t.w. pink sapphire baguettes, $2,000 SPRING 2018
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Relic Golden Gate necklace in 14k yellow gold with 1.02 ct. rose-cut emerald and 0.08 ct. t.w. round full-cut diamond pavé on 16-inch chain; $2,500
“I design from the heart. I let the materials lead. I’m not bogged down by a look. This is as authentic as it gets.”
Relic 18k white gold Golden Gate band with 1.98 ct. rose-cut oval blue sapphire and diamond pavé, $4,200; Blockette jackets in 18k white gold with diamond pavé, $1,950 each
Hewn taper ring in 18k yellow gold with 0.42 ct. hexagonshape cognac diamond and 0.08 ct. t.w. pavé light brown diamonds; $3,500
HUMBLE BEGINNINGS Dawes came to jewelry-making through metalwork. When she was 18, she took a postgraduate year at Michigan’s Interlochen Center for the Arts, and within the first hour of her first metalsmithing class, she says she had a “transcendental experience” and knew what she wanted to do for the rest of her life: Work with metals. “To me, the manipulation of metal was such an ancient and magical kind of alchemical experience,” she remembers. “To be able to take a very hard substance and make it act like clay was so fascinating to me, and that’s what captured me.” In the years that followed, through and after college (she moved to the West Coast in 1992 to attend California College of Arts and Crafts), Dawes worked as a blacksmith and as a structural steel welder before starting her own architectural metal company in the late 1990s. One of her contractors refused to pay, essentially forcing her to shutter the business. To make ends meet, she took a job with a local jewelry designer. In 2000, she struck out on her own. SPRING 2018
Dawes struggled during those first few years, focusing more on technique than anything else, building her business but never really falling in love with what she was making and why she was making it. Finally, in 2006, while pregnant with her first child, she had another breakthrough. “I realized that I either had to stop doing what I was doing or I had to tear it all down and do it all differently,” she says. “From that point on, I embraced sustainability—this notion of creating something for my child and not taking away from the world. That’s when my work kind of loosened, became more organic, became more about an expression of my art.”
SUSTAINABLE GOALS This new mindset meant a lot more effort on the front end. Dawes started using recycled golds and conflict-free gems so she could keep tabs on where her materials were sourced. To this day, the stones she chooses are ethically mined and often have a paper trail leading back to the mine and cutting facility from which they originated. She’s also a board member of Ethical Metalsmiths. Once Dawes has charted the most sustainable path to each project, she designs in her Santa Rosa, Calif., studio with a clear mind, stepping back and letting the materials lead. “I’m not in this business to make
money; I’m interested in making beautiful things,” says Dawes, adding that most of her pieces retail between $2,000 and $5,000. “When I work with clients, essentially what I’m trying to do is create mini-vacations for them. This way every time they look at a piece of their jewelry, their breath is taken away. That’s how I know I’ve done my job well.” This approach has attracted the attention of customers and store owners far and wide. In California, customers from all walks of life perk up at the mention of Dawes’ name. (She is a bit of a local celebrity in and around wine country.) Her ethics are another selling point for shoppers. Her willingness to stand JCKONLINE.COM
Hewn eternity rings in 18k rose gold with 0.98 ct. t.w. opaque diamonds, $2,950 each; custom 18k yellow gold Etruscan oval diamond band, $2,750 (without center stone); Relic 18k yellow gold Golden Gate band with 0.1 ct. t.w. white diamonds, $2,200
behind her work means she’ll fix any ring for any reason at any point. In many cases, Dawes not only repairs the ring but also actually makes minor improvements—resetting pavé diamonds that have fallen out from constant wear or remaking settings entirely rather than just patching broken bands or bezels. Like her clients, Dawes’ retailers are enthusiastic about both her business practices—which encourage confidence in the brand—and her design style. “There is something really enchanting about each of her pieces,” says Faran Peterson, sales manager at The Clay Pot in Brooklyn, N.Y. “The combination of satin finish over delicately hewn or hammered rings lends a certain ethereal glow to the gold.”
MARKETING MAVEN In recent years, social media has been a huge part of Dawes’ success— starting with her website, where she has built an entire page of customer stories. On her Instagram account (@jenniferdawesdesign), which had nearly 52,000 followers at press time, she mixes artsy product pics with images of clients, store owners, and unidentified ring-stacking shots. Every now and again she’ll throw in a behind-thescenes photo, like a basket of eggs from the chickens that roam her ranch. Dawes insists she’s still trying to decipher the ins and outs of Instagram (she calls it a “quandary”), adding that while she’s worked hard to develop an organic following, she still hasn’t figured out how to track conversions from this platform. Pinterest, meanwhile, has been a great referral SPRING 2018
Hewn 18k rose gold earrings with 3.66 cts. t.w. pear-shape morganites and 0.06 ct. t.w. diamond connectors in 18k yellow gold; $3,225
generator; Dawes declines to provide specifics, but says she’s gotten “many clients” from her Pinterest boards. “There’s a resonance I think that I hit with people with my work,” she says, “because it comes from a very authentic place. I’m trying to do the right thing and be the voice of doing
the right thing in the industry. I think it all just comes together.”
NEW DIRECTIONS All great artists reinvent themselves continuously, and Dawes is no exception. As she celebrates her company’s
18k milestone, she describes a host of plans for the future, including a new housewares line—she calls it “jewelry for your home”—that will incorporate large-scale welded-steel sculptural projects. In the meantime, Dawes will debut two jewelry lines at LUXURY during Las Vegas jewelry week: a white-diamond engagement line and a mountings collection. Later in the year, she hopes to introduce a new jewelry line incorporating a different kind of metal— metal debris from the back part of her ranch that burned in Northern California’s devastating October 2017 wildfires. (Dawes herself didn’t lose anything, but her husband’s metal shop was destroyed.) And she’ll continue to focus on mentoring young jewelry designers who are hoping to break into the business. She participates in the San Francisco– based Project Mentor program, which works to inspire and prepare women to become leaders in creative fields, and she has hosted three interns at her company in the last year. Dawes sees these efforts as part of her emphasis on sustainability, considering that mentorship facilitates the long-term health of the industry. “I have learned a lot through more than 30 years of experience, and it’s important to give support, guidance, and mentorship to people starting out in the industry,” she says. “This is not an easy industry to break into, and as retail is changing you have to either be incredibly innovative or independently wealthy to get into stores and build a brand. If I can help someone navigate that, it’s a role I want to play.” JCKONLINE.COM
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The industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s go-to online source for breaking news and the consumer-led style trends that shape the jewelry industry. JCKonline.com connects the industry influencers who drive the jewelry business forward.
CONGRATULATIONS TO THE 2018 JEWELERS’ CHOICE AWARDS FIRST PLACE WINNERS! Be sure to visit all the winners at this year’s LUXURY show. Best Bracelet Design $2,500 & Under
Best Necklace Design $2,500 & Under
Fashion/Bridge Jewelry $500 & Under
Shy Creation LUX-1836
Shy Creation LUX-1836
Best Bracelet Design $2,501–$10,000
Best Necklace Design $2,501–$10,000
Gold Jewelry $2,500 & Under
Shy Creation LUX-1836
Shy Creation LUX-1836
Best Necklace Design Over $10,000
Gold Jewelry Over $2,500
Shy Creation LUX-1836
Best Bracelet Design Over $10,000 Bapalal Keshavlal LUX-P1820
Best Bridal Design $2,500 & Under Shy Creation LUX-1836
Best Bridal Design $2,501–$5,000 Shy Creation LUX-1836
Best Bridal Design Over $10,000 Neon Gems Inc. LUX-1032
Best Earring Design $2,500 & Under GRAND PRIZE WINNER Shy Creation LUX-1836
Best Earring Design $2,501–$10,000 Parlé Jewelry Designs LUX-1704
Neon Gems Inc. LUX-1032
Best Ring Design $2,501–$10,000 CrownRing LUX-1315
Best Statement Piece Over $30,000 Parlé Jewelry Designs LUX-1704
Colored Diamond Jewelry Over $10,000 Neon Gems Inc. LUX-1032
Colored Stone Jewelry $2,501–$10,000 Beverley K LUX-P1909
Diamond Jewelry $2,500 & Under Shy Creation LUX-1836
Diamond Jewelry Over $10,000 Neon Gems Inc. LUX-1032 Booth numbers as of May issue close 4/4/18.
Neon Gems Inc. LUX-1032
Men’s Jewelry Over $1,000 Shy Creation LUX-1836
Mixed Metal Jewelry Over $1,000 Lika Behar Collection LUX-P1921
Platinum Jewelry Over $10,000 Neon Gems Inc. LUX-1032
Silver Jewelry Over $1,000 Vahan Jewelry LUX-127
Tanzanite Jewelry $10,000 & Under Beverley K LUX-P1909
Join Us JCK Talks 2018
MARK YOUR CALENDAR!
JCK Talks arms retailers with the tools, insights and information necessary to succeed in the current retail climate. Refreshed content for 2018 includes an action-packed day of influential speakers, an afternoon with industry associations, and The Showcase Stage—all designed to provide you with crucial takeaways that deliver “Solutions for your Store.”
JCK Talks THURSDAY, MAY 31 �ONE DAY PRECEDING JCK LAS VEGAS� T R AD EW I N D S R O O M S , P O O L L EV E L
Speakers from both inand outside of the jewelry industry will inspire buyers to think differently about marketing strategies, jewelry merchandising and sales tactics.
Afternoon with the Associations FRIDAY, JUNE 1 JCK SHOW FLOOR, BAYSIDE LEVEL 1
Created to put a spotlight on the happenings within our industry, Afternoon with the Associations will include presentations from: WJA , JVC, NCDIA , AGTA and more.
The Showcase Stage SATURDAY, JUNE 2 � MONDAY, JUNE 4 JCK SHOW FLOOR, BAYSIDE LEVEL 1
Conveniently located on the show floor, The Showcase Stage, will feature several interactive panels, seminars and trend downloads presented by industry and consumer experts.
S TAY U P T O D AT E O N T H E F U L L J C K TA L K S S C H E D U L E B Y V I S I T I N G
J C K L A S V E G A S . C O M /E V E N T S A N D B E S U R E T O D O W N LO A D T H E O F F I C I A L J C K M O B I L E A P P T O H E L P Y O U P L A N Y O U R A G E N D A AT T H E S H O W.
WHAT TREASURES AWAIT...
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J O I N
M AY 31 - J U N E 3 , 2 018 FO R MO R E I N F O R MAT I O N VISIT L ASVEG ASA NTIQ UEJ EW EL RYA ND WATC H SH O W.C O M
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SHOW BIZ SWIPE RIGHT
Signature collection peridot and blue topaz pendant with 0.47 ct. t.w. diamonds; $5,995; John Atencio; 720-445-5292; johnatencio.com
The LUXURY show seamlessly blends technology with memorable IRL experiences BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY
UXURY IS GOING digital. The Las Vegas show—which opens at Mandalay Bay Convention Center Wednesday, May 30 (one day later than its historical date pattern), runs for two days as an invitation-only affair, and then expands to the wider JCK community before closing Monday, June 4—has incorporated technology into its matchmaking efforts in a manner that feels très appropriate for 2018. “At LUXURY, our focus is on helping to drive business for our brands and our retailers in a high-end environment,” says Sarin Bachmann, industry vice president of LUXURY and Swiss Watch events. “In 2018, we will unveil a new LUXURY networking app. It utilizes swipe technology to introduce retailers to exhibitors and retailers to retailers with an algorithm that matches them up based on the information they provided us at registration time.” Not only will the app, which is now available for download, “make smarter, better connections” among attendees, according to Bachmann, but it will also connect retailers to a new area in the Oceanside ballroom dedicated to in-store experiences to “give retailers concrete ideas they can take back to help drive traffic into their stores.” JCKONLINE.COM
Keynote speaker Johnny Earle, founder of Boston’s Johnny Cupcakes clothing brand, aka “the world’s first T-shirt baker,” will aim to do the same thing. At a breakfast presentation May 30, Earle will detail how he made his first retail store an unforgettable experience. (“My dad and I transformed my first store location into an old-fashioned bakery where I displayed T-shirts in vintage, industrial refrigerators and on baking racks,” Earle writes on his website. “I even made it smell like frosting!”) The expanded Design@LUXURY area in the Oceanside ballroom is guaranteed to be equally inspiring. “We’re doing it bigger and better this year,” says Bachmann, adding that brands new to the area include Clementine & Co. Jewelry, Erica Molinari, Dawes Design, John Atencio, and Just Jules. (Meanwhile, the regular LUXURY lineup includes two Italian jewelry firms new to the event: Pesavento and Ponte Vecchio Gioielli.) “We are going back to basics and creating more clean, sleek, contemporary designs for our return to LUXURY,” says Atencio, who last exhibited at the show in 2007. The annual LUXURY Retailer of the Year Award is also staging a comeback—at a breakfast presentation on Thursday, May 31. And this year, the ceremony will feature the new LUXURY Design Awards, in which retailers select winners in four to six categories and reward them with trunk shows at their stores. Right swipe, indeed.
BEST IN SHOW
14k white gold bracelet with 26.78 cts. t.w. diamonds, 4 cts. t.w. black diamonds, 2.02 cts. t.w. sapphires, and 87.22 cts. t.w. black pearl pieces; $88,000; Peter Lam; 852-2363-2122; peterlam.com.hk
FIRST BLOOM Business at the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show in March showed signs of a spring blossoming BY EMILI VESILIND
ADE, PEARLS, AND 24k gold are a few of Hong Kong’s biggest jewelry exports. But many of the 53,000 attendees who flocked to this year’s Hong Kong International Jewellery Show, held March 1–5 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre and sponsored by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC), were on the hunt for something more elusive: innovative design. And the fair delivered on that front. The show’s aptly named Hall of Extraordinary, which spotlights high jewelry designs from global firms, showcased numerous innovative pieces blooming with bold color and unusual elements. Bangkok-based Zorab Creation showed floral cocktail rings wrought in lemony yellow diamonds, while Sydney’s Autore displayed a showstopping necklace in the image of a dragon (the creature’s body was composed entirely of intricately connected South Sea keshi pearls). Meanwhile, Hong Kong’s Dawn Jewellery debuted new jadeite-and-diamond necklaces that felt so opulent, they could have been plucked off the delicate clavicles of a Ming dynasty royal. “People come to Hong Kong looking for something they’ve never seen before,” said designer Anita So, founder of Hong Kong–based Osatina Jewellery Co., who debuted a
collection of unique titanium-and-carvedjade pieces at the fair to meet that demand. “Titanium feels really new for buyers.” Jacky Lam, marketing director for Hong Kong–based fine jewelry brand Peter Lam, which has transitioned in recent years from a mostly bridal line to a fine fashion collection with a tightly curated bridal selection, said the “whole vibe” of what buyers are looking for has changed in the past few years. “Everyone was buying classics for the longest time,” he said, “but now buyers want color and new designs—something different.” Despite the show’s overall upbeat spirit, many vendors noted that China’s economic slowdown was affecting show traffic (and spending) negatively. According to China’s National Bureau of Statistics, the slower economy has resulted in a decline in demand for jewelry in the country. But Hong Kong in particular saw a 44 percent growth in jewelry sales in 2017, according to the HKTDC. And business was positively booming in several corners of the show. The Japan Pavilion was so jam-packed with buyers writing orders, it was difficult to maneuver in the space. Several American exhibitors at the Antique & Vintage Jewellery Galleria also reported robust sales. “It’s been really good so far—we’ve been doing very well,” said Natalie Bos Betteridge of Greenwich, Conn.–based Betteridge, on the third day of the show. “It’s a whole different clientele in Hong Kong. The tastes and interests can be totally different.” Kent Wong, chairman of the HKTDC Jewellery Advisory Committee, said design innovation has “lifted” the territory’s profile in the jewelry world, and commented that the relative stability of the U.S. economy is helping drive the local market. “Hong Kong is an important gateway from the West to the East,” Wong said. “And the industry here remains optimistic.” JCKONLINE.COM
STAND OUT. R I S E A BOV E . Become a credentialed AGS Member. Our nonprofit Society is the only one that grants professional credentials—earned by those who share our vision of consumer protection, education and excellence. So you, as a member, can convey the qualities that are most important to your clients: ethics, integrity and knowledge.
Professional Credentials Offered: Certified Gemologist®, Certified Gemologist® Appraiser, Registered Jeweler, and Registered Supplier.
Apply for membership today! Visit us at JCK Booth L103 or LUX500, contact us at firstname.lastname@example.org, or call 866.805.6500.
Stuller at JCK Las Vegas See the new tools. Try the new technology. Pick up tips at the new information sessions. See everything Stuller has to offer BOOTHS B60046 AND B62046
June 1 - 4, 2018
Stuller.com | 800 877 7777
THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY
EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES & TECHNOLOGY
TOOL TIME End each repost with an author credit (common credit formats include “RP: @jckmagazine” and “Repost: @ jckmagazine”).
NO HASHTAGS REQUIRED
REUSE & RECYCLE
WOMAN: LUMINA/STOCKSY; DOG: LEE TOWNDROW/MOMENT/GETTY
The etiquette of repurposing content on social media
BY EMILI VESILIND
T’S A WIDELY held belief that truly great social media content is always 100 percent original. But for luxury brands, the gold standard for social posts—the marriage of pristine professional photography with perfectly pithy captions—doesn’t always lead to strong user engagement. And all those polished still-life shots on Instagram are starting to feel homogeneous. Because how many flawlessly lit “flat lays” (the social term for product tableaux shot from overhead) can we consume before they start to feel painfully corporate? A far more effective social strategy for independent jewelry retailers includes using a mix of original and curated content, says Johannah Miller, a social media strategist for global management consulting firm Accenture. “Some of the best accounts on Instagram include curated content and photos,” she adds. “Reposting can bring relevant
content to your audience and can also help you build relationships with brands and businesses in your area.” While it’s important not to overdo it, thoughtful reposting can help a retailer build up its local community. “You’re reaching out and playing a role in your area,” Miller explains. “And by doing that, you’re no longer operating in a silo, which is important.” Below are some of the social expert’s top tips for reposting content with both politeness and panache.
CREDIT CORRECTLY Building social cred—and symbiotic relationships—through reposting relies heavily on giving credit where credit is due, every time you repost. You should tag the author of each repost in the caption, using that feed’s social handle. Miller suggests using the Repost app to share content, but advises against reposting content verbatim. “Add your own caption that shows your users how and why the content matters to them,” she says.
Unless the account you’re reposting from has a hashtag you want your business to take part in, don’t carry over hashtags from the original post— or use them to identify the post’s original author. “People will hashtag the words repost or reshare, but it’s kind of spammy-looking,” Miller notes.
FIND LOCAL CONTENT Look for content on social channels that would be interesting or helpful to your clientele, says Miller, including from local influencers who could be candidates for branded partnerships at some point. And while it used to be good etiquette to wait a few hours before reposting someone’s content on your feed, Miller says as long as you’re crediting correctly, this is no longer an issue.
ASK PERMISSION If the social feed from which you’re sharing content belongs to a person or company you’d like to spark up a relationship with, it’s nice to send a direct message to ask if you can repurpose that content on your page, Miller says. “You definitely don’t have to ask them to repost—you can repost anything you want,” she explains. “But it can be a nice way to introduce your business.”
Proudly made in the USA Since 1951
Stuller’s Orion 150s welder (with floating microscope) features technology that prolongs the life of the electrode—so less time is spent sharpening it.
SUPPLY IN DEMAND
ORION 150S WELDER Upping the efficiency of the busy bench jeweler is the mission of the Orion 150s, the newest welder from Stuller. The solidly built unit is a combined pulse-arc welder and a capacitive discharge resistance welder. In Tack mode, the Orion can be used to temporarily position parts before welding or soldering; in Pulse Arc mode, the tool can perform permanent welds and add metal. Jewelers can weld spots ranging in size from approximately 0.5 to 3.5 mm, using one of more than 400 power settings—allowing for infinite creative possibilities. ($4,900; stuller.com) —EV
WHO, WHAT, WEARABLE
GARMIN’S VÍVOMOVE HR Garmin is a veteran fitness wearable developer famous for its GPS technology. But in its 29-year history, the brand has made few devices that appeal to women. The new Vívomove HR hybrid watch—which comes in a 43 mm rose gold case on a white silicone band, among other color combos (a heavier Premium version boasts a leather strap)—addresses that lopsidedness. The upgrade to Garmin’s first general-audience fitness watch, Vívomove hides its “smarts” in a fetching analog design that’s as fit for the office as for the asphalt. What we liked: It’s a high-tech watch with oldschool good looks. The device resembles a trendy minimalist analog timepiece. But it’s actually a touch-screen display that communicates notes and alerts discreetly at the bottom of the face, and only when you tap the bezel.
World’s Largest & Finest Collection of Religious Jewelry Visit Us at the JCK Las Vegas Show
516-867-1500 (local) 1-800-229-0006 (toll free) email@example.com www.randpaseka.com
For alerts, tap the bezel and the clock hands quickly move to 10 and 2 so the display isn’t blocked (a very cool touch).
THE FITBIT/ADIDAS SMARTWATCH! SEE jckonline.com/topics/technology FOR THAT AND MORE.
What we didn’t like: It’s a minor complaint, but it’s hard to read that cool digital display when the watch is bathed in full sunlight. The glare from the device’s glass obscures it. Best feature: Arguably, no wearable maker does fitness features as well as Garmin—and the Vívomove HR offers some innovative ones, including an all-day stress tracker, a relaxation timer to help users manage stress, and a 24/7 heart rate monitor that also accurately gauges workout intensity. ($199 for Sport, $299 for Premium; garmin.com) —EV JCKONLINE.COM
SINCE 1998, DIAMONDS HAVE NOT BEEN OUR MOST PRECIOUS GEMS. In 1999, Younis was dealing with HIV. Now, his biggest fear is selecting the right college. As we celebrate our 20th anniversary of helping children in need, we’re heralding our accomplishments. Kids have always shined more brightly after benefiting from the generosity of JFC that has raised over $53 million to support programs like St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital®, Make-A-Wish® America, National CASA Association and Elizabeth Glaser Pediatric AIDS Foundation. Share your generosity with us, and see how you can make a difference for a child… like Younis. Visit jewelersforchildren.org, email firstname.lastname@example.org, or call 212.687.2949 today.
BECAUSE HINDSIGHT IS 20/20.
TraxSALES 6830 N. Eldridge Parkway, Suite 302 Houston, TX 77041 Tel: 888-534-1253/713-466-7177 Email: email@example.com Website: traxsales.com TraxSales.com has been providing retail sales force automation and customer relationship management for 21 years. Learn your accurate closing ratios and liberate your sales team to be the best they can be. Happy salespeople = happy customers! Call 713-466-7177.
Luvente 31-00 47th Ave., Suite 2 Long Island City, NY 11101 Tel: 212-730-1003 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: luvente.com These 14k white gold turquoise hanging earrings feature 0.44 ct. t.w. diamonds.
Royal Chain Group Dabakarov 62 W. 45th St., Eighth Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-730-1888 Fax: 212-302-5316 Email: email@example.com Website: dabakarov.com Exceptional is our standard.
2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Fax: 212-730-7616 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: royalchain.com Royal Chain is known for its fabulous gold. To mark our 40th anniversary, we have released a special collection of new designs. Try these silky Italian-made bangles with diamonds in three colors. MSRP: $1,290
Martin Flyer 70 W. 36th St. New York, NY 10018 Tel: 800-223-0330 Fax: 212-768-0124 Email: email@example.com Website: martinflyer.com â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Quality You Expect, the Personal Service You Deserve.â&#x20AC;? Since 1945, this belief has remained our cornerstone through three generations of outstanding service, craftsmanship, and delivery of heirloom-quality jewelry at competitive prices.
Alex Velvet Inc. 3334 Eagle Rock Blvd. Los Angeles, CA 90065 Tel: 323-255-6900 Fax: 323-255-6934 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: alexvelvetusa.com Alex Velvet presents its elegant Fall display unit. Can be made with any desired colors.
Hoover & Strong 10700 Trade Road North Chesterfield, VA 23236 Tel: 800-759-9997 Fax: 800-616-9997 Email: email@example.com Website: hooverandstrong.com Hoover & Strong has over 650 die-struck bands including hundreds of new classic, fancy, multi-tone, and diamond styles! All bands are Made in the USA with Harmony Recycled Precious Metals. Visit hooverandstrong.com to see all our products.
Shy Creation 631 S. Olive St., Suite 900 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8900 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: shycreation.com
Alison & Ivy 1552 W. Carroll, Suite 207 Chicago, IL 60607 Tel: 833-325-4766 Email: email@example.com Website: alisonandivy.com Call now for your free display: 833-325-4766. Alison & Ivy specializes in personalized jewelry for retail jewelers. Free display. No inventory. Quick delivery.
Le Vian® Tel: 877-2LEVIAN/516-466-7200 Fax: 516-466-7201 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: levian.com
JCK Jewelers’ Choice Awards Grand Prize gold star earrings. Easy to pair with Shy’s charmed diamond star necklace. Visit us at JCK LUXURY Las Vegas Booth LUX-1836 to see all our award-winning designs.
Introducing the world premiere of the new Nude™ Deco Estate™ Le Vian timepiece, the first ever featuring skin-glistening, naturalcolor Nude Diamonds™, in Strawberry Steel® with pearlized Nude satin strap.
Gabriel & Co.
Shanghai Lao Feng Xiang Co. Ltd.
545 W. 45th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-519-1400 Email: email@example.com Website: gabrielny.com Enhance your everyday style with jewelry that transforms any outfit from ordinary to extraordinary. This unparalleled collection of necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and rings ranges from timeless classics to the most up-to-date trends.
No. 270 Caoxi Road Shanghai, China 200235 Tel: +0086-21-64833388 Fax: +0086-21-64706366 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: laofengxiang.com Le Lotus Sous La Pluie. Inspired by the scene of lotus in the rain, Lao Feng Xiang boldly combines jade, ruby, diamond, and tsavorite to make a highly charming and fashionable piece.
Livingstone Jewelry 631 S. Olive St., Suite 340 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-683-1040/800-654-3394 Fax: 213-683-0422 Email: email@example.com Website: livingstonejewelry.com A manufacturer with more than 20 years of experience producing highquality, semiprecious gemstone and pearl jewelry. Our products are very contemporary and unique in designs with good price points. We are excited to introduce our Morganite Stone in Rose Gold collection.
Jewelers Mutual Insurance Group 24 Jewelers Park Dr. Neenah, WI 54956 Tel: 800-558-6411 Fax: 920-725-9401 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: jewelersmutual.com Businesses like yours have trusted Jewelers Mutual for support since 1913. Contact us to learn how we can help you become safer, more secure, and more successful.
Adasco Designs 62 W. 47th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-632-6685 Email: email@example.com Website: adasco.com Platinum Ideal Matched 3-Cushion Ring with center 2 ct. G VS2 (GIA). Platinum Ideal Matched Radiant Eternity Band, 14 cts. t.w. D-F, VS+ (GIA). Adasco Designs is the source for Ideal Matched Pairs & Layouts of all fancy shapes.
V.D. Gems Ltd. Unit 8, 6/Floor, Fu Hang Industrial Bldg., No. 1 Hok Yuen St. Hung Hom, Kowloon, Hong Kong 999077 Tel: 852-27399885 Fax: 852-27398180 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: vdgems.com Manufacturer and wholesaler of single-cut, full-cut, tapper, baguette, rose-cut as well as illusion-cut diamonds in different shapes. Quality control, regular supply, and on-time delivery. We can supply diamonds directly to your manufacturers in India, China, or Hong Kong.
Rand & Paseka Mfg. Co. Inc. Dabakarov 62 W. 45th St., Eighth Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-730-1888 Fax: 212-302-5316 Email: email@example.com Website: dabakarov.com Exceptional is our standard.
10 Hanse Ave. Freeport, NY 11520 Tel: 800-229-0006 Fax: 516-867-0230 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: randpaseka.com Rand & Paseka has the most extensive line of religious jewelry found anywhere. We manufacture over 18,000 items in gold and sterling silver, all made in the USA. Visit our website or call for more info.
Arch Crown Inc. DA Gold 2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-819-1111 Fax: 212-730-5706 Email: email@example.com Website: dagoldproducts.com Featured are our new 18k gold Italian cuffs enhanced with 0.30 ct. t.w. sparkling diamonds. Enticing style and artistic finish make these pieces beautiful and fashionable.
460 Hillside Ave. Hillside, NJ 07205 Tel: 800-526-8353 Fax: 973-731-2228 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: archcrown.com New! Start tagging your merchandise with our Poly-Lam Thermal Transfer Computer Tags. Poly-Lam material has superior print durability and can withstand ultrasonic cleaning; text and bar code will not rub off. Clear-Tail tags in gold, silver, and white. Visit JCK Las Vegas Booth B64056
Christopher Designs 50 W. 47th St., Suite 1507 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-382-1013 Fax: 212-768-8978 Email: email@example.com Website: christopherdesigns.com Christopher Designs impeccably blends Old World luxury and style with modern technology to create exclusive designs that include our patented CrisscutÂŽ and Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Amour Crisscut diamonds. When placed side by side with our competition, the difference is truly clear.
Evocateur Tel: 203-956-0705 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: evocateurstyle.com The new Dragonfly Garden cuff from Evocateur is a sophisticated marriage of art and elegance. Handmade in the United States, it is 2 inches wide and features 22k gold leaf and enamel. MSRP: $348
FOR JEWELRY DESIGNERS Discover the Best Selection of European Nappa Leather by the Meter & Finished Leather Jewelry PLUS Fine Sterling Silver Chain, Footage, Findings, & More
VISIT US AT JCK #B10143 800-845-6964 | www.cargoholdinc.com
42 W. 48th St., Suite 1701 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-777-MAKUR Fax: 212-730-8786 Email: email@example.com Website: makurdesigns.com
2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Fax: 212-730-7616 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: phillipgavriel.com
The subtle use of color, form, and texture is a hallmark of Makur Designs signature collections, including the awardwinning Morganite and Rose Gold collection—always identifiable through detail and quality.
Phillip Gavriel’s new Popcorn collection is a fabulous combination of casual and classic elegance. Perfect for every woman, every day, these pieces are just the right balance of fashion and fine jewelry. MSRP: starting at $199
Lashbrook 131 E. 13065 S. Draper, UT 84020 Tel: 888-252-7388 Fax: 801-352-7236 Email: email@example.com Website: lashbrookdesigns.com Today’s customers expect more. We love that! At Lashbrook, we create custom and award-winning styles using precious and alternative metals, stones, and other exotic materials. Now you can give your customers exactly what they want.
Andréa Candela Tel: 888-314-5998 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: andreacandela.com Identifiable by its unique armadillo finish and rope edge design, Andréa Candela uses 18k gold and sterling silver accented with genuine gemstones and diamonds to bring Old World craftsmanship to today’s fashion-forward woman.
DA Gold 2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-819-1111 Fax: 212-730-5706 Email: email@example.com Website: dagoldproducts.com Featured is one of our new 18k gold Italian cuff bangles enhanced with 0.50 ct. t.w. sparkling diamonds. The alluring style and artful handiwork of this piece achieve an exceptionally graceful, elegant, and desirable look.
Dabakarov 62 W. 45th St., Eighth Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-730-1888 Fax: 212-302-5316 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: dabakarov.com Exceptional is our standard.
Earstuds USA 5580 LBJ Freeway, Suite 525 Dallas, TX 75240 Tel: 972-458-2076 Fax: 972-458-1412 Email: email@example.com Website: earstudsusa.com This stunning, stylish rose gold diamond tennis bracelet has 19.1 cts. t.w. G-H color and 51 clarity diamonds.
Gold Craft Jewelry Corp. 640 S. Hill St., Suite 650 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8673 Fax: 213-623-4673 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Exquisite 14k gold frames for coins. Frames for Credit Suisse, American eagle, peso, Canadian maple, and more. Frames in plain and rope are designed to fit all size coins. Teardrop frame comes in 1/10 ounce, 1/4 ounce, 1/2 ounce, and 1 ounce.
Find out how to get featured in Product Showcase. Contact your JCK sales representative today.
downeast G www.downeasttrading.com email@example.com 800.626.5700
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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY JCK NEWS DAILY – A ROUNDUP OF OUR BEST STORIES DELIVERED TO YOUR INBOX EACH DAY.
Breaking news, industry insights and practical advice for the jewelry trade. With all original, not aggregated content, the JCK News Daily newsletter is the industry’s true business-to-business news source. SIGN UP AT JCKONLINE.COM
r u o at s! JCK Las Vegas June 1-4 s u ow Booth #B46170 e e h s JA New York July 15-17 s e g m Booth #1531 Co comin JIS Miami October 19-22 p Booth #1528 u
Stuller Inc. 302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: stuller.com Stuller has the industry’s largest selection of precious metal bands— classic, anniversary, and eternity—in stock and ready to personalize. Browse our assortment now at stuller.com/weddingbands.
Costar Imports, Inc. Burlingame, CA 94010 Tel: 650-389-6969 Email: email@example.com Website: costarimports.com This engagement ring (Style R12648) with 0.85 ct. t.w. diamonds catches eyes with its unique octagonal halo and is set up to hold a 6 mm round diamond. The band has 0.35 ct. t.w. diamonds. MSRP: Ring $4,200; band $1,650
Shanghai Lao Feng Xiang Co. Ltd. Luvente 31-00 47th Ave., Suite 2 Long Island City, NY 11101 Tel: 212-730-1003 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: luvente.com 14k yellow gold ring (5.93 grams metal weight) with 76 diamonds totaling 0.3 ct. t.w. (Style R03058-RD.R)
No. 270 Caoxi Road Shanghai, China 200235 Tel: +0086-21-64833388 Fax: +0086-21-64706366 Email: email@example.com Website: laofengxiang.com Flexagon. Inspired by the concept of paper folding, Flexagon combines gold, diamond, ruby, and sapphire to demonstrate the vitality of modern jewelry. The innovative, unique design allows one piece to serve as earrings, ring, and also pendant.
JYE Luxury Collection 101 Utah St., Suite 101 San Francisco, CA 94103 Tel: 415-621-8880 Fax: 415-552-1675 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: jyescorp.com Every piece in the JYE Luxury Collection reflects the brand’s commitment to excellence by combining unique classic and contemporary designs and impeccable workmanship in platinum and 18k gold along with G/VS+ premium cut diamonds and fine gems.
Allison-Kaufman Co. 7640 Haskell Ave. Van Nuys, CA 91406 Tel: 818-373-5100/800-800-8908 Fax: 818-373-5150 Email: email@example.com Website: allisonkaufman.com These beautiful 14k white gold and diamond earrings are a real miracle. Available in five diamond weights, from 0.25 ct. t.w. to 2 cts. t.w.
Nelson Jewellery USA Inc. 631 S. Olive St., Suite 300 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-489-3323 Fax: 213-489-1832 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: nelsonus.com Nelson’s tradition of creating unique and timelessly elegant fine jewelry continues. The diamond pendant pictured was a finalist in the 2016 Jewelers’ Choice Awards’ Best Price Point Under $500 category.
Stuller Inc. 302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: email@example.com Website: stuller.com Stuller’s fine jewelry styles reflect popular favorites and updated classics, providing options for every customer. Browse our new styles and bestselling designs at stuller.com/jewelry.
CrownRing Montreal Tel: 866-214-7464 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: crownring.com CrownRing Bridal House is a name that has come to represent excellence in bridal jewelry. Under this label rest five defining brands: CrownRing, Carlex, Bleu Royale, Torque, and Noam Carver. CrownRing and its divisions continue to lead the pace by creating award-winning and captivating jewelry.
RDI Diamonds Inc. Shy Creation 631 S. Olive St., Suite 900 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8900 Email: email@example.com Website: shycreation.com The Art of the Stack featuring Shy’s Kate collection stackable bangles. Visit us at JCK LUXURY Las Vegas Booth LUX-1836 to see more layering combos.
2300 W. Ridge Road, Fourth Floor Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 585-225-0415 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: rdidiamonds.com Guaranteed to help you never make a bad inventory buy again! You Me We™ offers complete customization that includes our no-risk 100 percent Sell Thru Guarantee! Customize your solution for your store with four different package options.
Artistry, Ltd. Thorsten Jewelry 404 E. First St., Suite 1204 Long Beach, CA 90802 Tel: 888-209-4757 Email: email@example.com Website: thorstenrings.com Bold. Unique. Modern. Introducing our new Jewelers’ Choice Award winners.
Midas Chain 50 McDermott Place Bergenfield, NJ 07621 Tel: 877-643-2765 Fax: 201-244-1151 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: midaschain.com This beautiful 14k yellow gold script love necklace comes with an adjustable chain for ultimate versatility. Midas has even designed this elegant piece with a diamond accent to accentuate the styling. MSRP: $591
8272 Lincoln Ave. Skokie, IL 60077 Tel: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Email: email@example.com Website: artistrylimited.com Artistry’s Celeste necklace and earrings features two-tone 14k gold with diamonds. MSRP: necklace $1,020; earrings $1,350
Samuel B. 98 Cuttermill Road, Suite 234 South Great Neck, NY 11021 Tel: 855-SAMUELB Fax: 516-466-1827 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: samuelb.com From our Bali Privé collection, these handcrafted Twisted Cable Bangles feature 18k hammered gold endcaps and are available in multiple widths and sizes. The Bali Privé collection is stocked, available for immediate delivery, and can be viewed on our online portal. Call today to become a Samuel B. brand partner.
EFFY Jewelry 1-877-ASK-EFFY Website: effyjewelry.com Banding Together: Effy is stacked to perfection with these diamond bezel rings in 14k yellow, white, and rose gold. Appealing to all personalities, brilliant diamonds pop with chic sophistication in this modern classic trend.
JWL.com Inc. 23024 Conde Drive Valencia, CA 91354 Website: jwl.com JWL is the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cryptocurrency designed for, and by, leaders in the global jewelry industry. Learn more at startengine.com/jwlcoin
Mira Style Jewellery Co. Ltd. Unit 410-411 Heng Ngai Centre 4 Hok Yuen Street East Hunghom, Kowloon, Hong Kong Phone: 852-2312-2148 Fax: 852-2312-6148 Email: email@example.com Classic to luxury, this 18k white gold round and baguette diamond halo semi-mount ring with 1.34 cts. t.w. is designed to hold a 1 ct. round diamond (Style R94328).
Dabakarov 62 W. 45th St., Eighth Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-730-1888 Fax: 212-302-5316 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: dabakarov.com Exceptional is our standard.
Belle Étoile 5901 Christie Ave, Suite 501 Emeryville, CA 94608 Tel: 415-626-9223 Fax: 415-373-9484 Email: email@example.com Website: belleetoilejewelry.com
E.L. Designs 52 W. Main St. Cambridge, NY 12816 Tel: 518-677-8595 Fax: 518-677-8597 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: eldesigns.com This swing-open design reveals a hidden “Love” message for the one you are devoted to. In sterling silver hand forged in the USA with a 1.75 mm diamond.
Future Lighting 4121 N.W. 27th St. Miami, FL 33142 Tel: 305-871-8774 Fax: 305-871-8786 Email: email@example.com Website: futuredesigns.us
Discover Belle Étoile, award-winning designer jewelry brand. French for “beautiful star,” Belle Étoile offers exquisite design and exciting programs to help drive traffic and increase sales in your store. Call us today to learn more.
Hover Jewel is an electromagnetic levitating LED display. The levitating disk measures 2 1/2 inches diameter and can carry up to 8 ounces. Stop by JCK Las Vegas Booth 67079 and see the different models.
590 Fifth Ave., 15th Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-869-5060 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: vibhorgems.com
302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: email@example.com Website: stuller.com
Vibhor is a U.S. manufacturer of quality core diamond essentials. We offer a complete turn-key solution, including 18k gold (nickel-free) rings and other jewelry, in-store training, custom displays, margins, stock-balance privileges, sales incentives, fast shipping, and a five-year warranty.
Stuller is your gemstone source. From sourcing and receiving, to quality assurance and accurate grading, to matching and fulfilling, our team of trained professionals delivers the best value in the industry. Visit stuller.com/gemstones.
INDEX AGS Laboratories pg. 55 Website: agslab.com AGTA pg. 26-27 Website: agta.org Toll-Free: 800-972-1162 Alamea Hawaii LLC pg.109 Website: alameahawaii.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Tel: 808-922-5333 Fax: 808-922-3992 Alex Velvet pg. 65 Website: alexvelvetusa.com Email: email@example.com Phone: 323-255-6900 Allison Kaufman Company pg. 77 Website: allison-kaufman.com Toll-Free: 800-800-8908 American Gem Society pg. 213 Website: ags.org Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Toll-Free: 866-805-6500 Andréa Candela pg. 165 Website: andreacandela.com Email: email@example.com Aquagems LLC pg. P11 Website: aquagemsllc.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Phone: 808-261-5554 Fax: 808-261-5557
Belle Étoile pg. 61 Website: belleetoilejewelry.com Email: email@example.com Toll-Free: 877-838-6728 Berco Jewelry Co. pg. 78 Website: BercoJewelry.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Phone: 312-782-1050 Toll-Free: 800-621-0668 Fax: 312-782-4441 Toll-Free Fax: 800-572-1995 Cargo Hold, Inc. pg. 221 Website: cargoholdinc.com Email: email@example.com Phone: 843-723-3341 Toll-Free: 800-845-6964 Fax: 843-722-1377 Charles & Colvard pg. 99 Website: charlesandcolvard.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Toll-Free: 800-210-4367 Christopher Designs pg. 47 Website: lamourcrisscut.com Toll-Free: 800-955-0970 Colpo & Zilio SPA pg. P7 Website: colpo-zilio.com Email: email@example.com Phone: +39 0444 380160 Fax: +39 0444 583308
Diamond Empowerment Fund pg. 93 Website: Diamondsdogoodawards.org Downeast Trading pg. 223 Website: downeasttrading.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Toll-Free: 800-626-5700 Earstuds USA pg. 205 Website: earstudsusa.com Email: email@example.com Toll-Free: 866-327-7883 eBay Inc. pg. 69 Website: ebay.com Phone: 866-540-3229 E.L. Designs pg. 41 Website: edlevinjewelry.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Phone: 518-677-8595 Toll-Free: 800-828-1122 Fax: 518-677-8597 Toll-Free Fax: 888-677-8597 Effy pg. 49-52, Back Cover Website: effyjewelry.com Email: email@example.com Toll-Free: 855-ASK-EFFY Escape pg. 105 Website: escapewatches.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Phone: 469-646-9990
Arpas Gold Jewellery pg. 151 Website: arpas.com Email: email@example.com Phone: 212-869-5548
Continental Jewelry (USA) Inc. pg. 155 Website: cjusa.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Phone: 212-695-3303 Toll-Free: 800-256-4286 Fax: 212-695-0997
EVOCATEUR pg. 10-11 Website: evocateurstyle.com Phone: 203-820-8786
Artistry Ltd. pg. 58 Website: artistrylimited.com Email: email@example.com Toll-Free: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208
Continental Pearl pg. C3 Website: continentalpearl.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Phone: 213-612-0252 Fax: 213-612-0686
Gabriel & Co. pg. 37 Website: gabrielny.com Phone: 212-519-1400
A.R.Z. Steel pg. 56 Website: arzsteel.com Email: email@example.com Phone: 514-489-8668 Fax: 514-489-6929
Costar Imports pg. 59 Website: costarimports.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Toll-Free: 877-7COSTAR
Galatea Jewelry by Artist pg. P12 Website: galateausa.com Email: email@example.com Phone: 909-592-0877 Toll-free: 800-609-6888 Fax: 909-592-1837
CrownRing pg. 14-15 Website: crownring.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Phone: 514-381-1589 Toll-Free: 866-214-7464
GIA pg. Inside Back Cover Website: gia.edu Email: email@example.com Phone: 760-603-4000 Toll-Free: 800-421-7250
DA Gold pg. 97 Website: dagoldproducts.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Phone: 212-819-1111 Toll-Free: 800-223-6639 Fax: 212-730-5706
GLDA pg. 161 Website: glda.com
Assael International Inc. pg. P2-P3 Website: Assael.com Email: Katietravers@assael.com Phone: 212-819-0060 Fax: 212-764-1965 Baggins Inc. pg. P4-P5 Website: bagginspearls.com Email: email@example.com Phone: 213-624-2277 Fax: 213-624-2278 BELLARRI pg. 16-17 Website: bellarri.com Toll-Free: 800-255-0192
Dabakarov pg. 71-74 Website: dabakarov.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Phone: 212-730-1888
Frey Wille pg. 114 Website: freywille.com
HANADAMA Pearls pg. C4 Website: hanadama-cfp.com Email: email@example.com Phone: 310-440-2159 Toll-free: 800-732-7500 Fax: 310-476-2756
Herco pg. 103 Website: herco.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Toll-Free: 800-864-0767 Fax: 415-398-3699 Hoover & Strong pg. 167 Website: hooverandstrong.com Email: email@example.com Phone: 804-794-3700 Toll-Free: 800-759-9997 Italgem Steel pg. 48 Website: Italgemsteel.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Phone: 514-388-5777 Toll-Free: 855-ITALGEM Fax: 514-384-5777 JCK Events pg. 28-29, 53, 172, 209 Website: jckshows.com Toll-Free: 800-257-3626 Jewelers for Children pg. 217 Website: jewelersforchildren.org Phone: 212-687-2949 Jewelers Mutual Insurance pg. 8-9, 203 Website: jewelersmutual.com Toll-Free: 800-558-6411 Jewelry Land pg. 207 Jubilee Diamond Instrument Limited pg. 227 Website: gemlogis.com Email: email@example.com Phone: +852 2351 7888 Fax: +852 2351 7333 JWL pg. 43 Website: JWL.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Phone: 866-545-9871 Jye’s International pg. 101 Website: jyescorp.com Email: email@example.com Phone: 415-621-8880 Kim International pg. 45 Website: kimint.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Toll-Free: 800-275-5555 Kimberly Collins Colored Gems pg. 206 Website: kimberlycollinsgems.com Email: email@example.com Phone: 512-661-8778 Kindred Keepsake Jewelry pg. 204 Website: kindredkeepsake.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Phone: 253-432-3882 Toll-Free: 877-268-3009 Fax: 253-514-8473 Lashbrook pg. 111 Website: lashbrookdesigns.com/damascus Toll-Free: 888-252-7388
Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show pg. 210 Website: vegasantiquejewelry.com Le Vian pg. Inside Front Cover, 1 Website: levian.com Email: email@example.com Toll-Free: 877-2LEVIAN Leading Jewelers Guild, Inc. pg. 208 Website: leadingjewelersguild.org Website: lovestorydiamonds.com Phone: 310-216-9106 Fax: 310-216-9139 Les Georgettes pg. 159 Website: lesgeorgettes.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Phone: 718-360-2917 Lika Behar Collection pg. 149 Website: likabehar.com Email: email@example.com Phone: 201-933-7200 Livingstone Jewelry pg. 169 Website: livingstonejewelry.com Toll-Free: 800-654-3394 Luvente pg. 85-92 Website: luvente.com Phone: 212-730-1003 Martin Flyer pg. 31 Website: martinflyer.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Phone: 212-840-8899
Mioro pg. 113 Website: miorogold.com Email: email@example.com Phone: 212-302-6077 Fax: 212-302-6018 Mira Style Jewellery Company Limited pg. 107 Website: estore.mirastyle.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Phone: 213-622-5233 Fax: 213-622-5549 Nelson Jewelry USA pg. 94 Website: nelsonus.com Email: email@example.com Toll-Free: 800-489-3327 Paragon Pearls pg. P6 Website: paragonpearls.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Phone: 212-997-2323 Toll-free: 800-732-7522 Fax: 212-997-2373 Peter Lam Jewellery Ltd.pg. 20-21 Website: peterlam.com.hk Email: email@example.com Phone: +852 23555897 Fax: +852 27641328 Phillip Gavriel pg. 2-3 Website: phillipgavriel.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Phone: 212-382-3340
Rembrandt Charms pg. 68 Website: rembrandtcharms.com Email: email@example.com Toll-Free: 800-828-7811
Thorsten Jewelry pg. 157 Website: thorstenrings.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
Royal Chain Group pg. Cover Gatefold, 2-3 Website: royalchain.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960
TraxSALES.com pg. 62 Email: Dave@TraxSALES.com Phone: 713-466-7177 Toll-Free: 888-534-1253 Fax: 713-466-7392
Samuel B. pg. 54 Website: SamuelB.com Email: info@SamuelB.com Phone: 516-466-1826 Toll-Free: 855-SAMUELB
Umicore pg. 225 Website: umicorepreciousmetals.com Toll-Free: 877-795-5060
Sethi Couture pg. 64 Website: sethicouture.com Phone: 415-863-1475 Shanghai Lao Feng Xiang pg. 24-25 Website: laofengxiang.com Shy Creation Inc. pg. 4-5 Website: shycreation.com Toll-Free: 800-606-1749 Sterling Reputation pg. 163 Website: sterlingreputation.com Email: email@example.com Phone: 954-578-1880 Stuller Inc. pg. 81, 214 Website: stuller.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Toll-Free: 800-877-7777 Fax: 337-981-1655
V.D. Gems Ltd. pg. 67 Website: vdgems.com Email: email@example.com Phone: +852-2739-9885 VIBHOR pg. 57 Website: vibhorgems.com Phone: 617-308-1580 Wilkerson pg. 22-23 Website: wilkersons.com Toll-Free: 800-631-1999 Toll-Free Fax: 800-949-1333 Worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Gold & Diamonds/ Low Cost Leader/Low Cost Luxury pg. 6-7 Website: lowcostleader.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Phone: 713-995-7033 Toll-Free: 866-8-LOW-COST Fax: 713-995-0756
Mastoloni pg. C2-P1 Website: mastoloni.com Toll-Free: 800-347-3275
Pink Diamond pg. 153 Website: pinkdiamondusa.com Email: email@example.com Phone: 213-624-2611 Fax: 213-624-0289
MDJ Advantage pg. 66 Website: mdjadvantage.com Email: Dm@mdjadvantage.com Toll-Free: 888-500-4311 Toll-Free Fax: 877-487-2104
Rahaminov Diamonds pg. 35 Website: rahaminov.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Phone: 213-622-9866 Fax: 213-622-6113
Midas pg. 12-13 Website: midaschain.com Email: email@example.com Toll-Free: 877-643-2765
Rand & Paseka pg. 216 Website: randpaseka.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Toll-Free: 800-229-0006
Copyright ÂŠ2018 Reed Exhibitions. All Rights Reserved. JCK Vol. 149 No. 3 (ISSN 1534-2719) is published 7 times a year in January/February, March/April, May, June, July/ August, September/October, and November/December for $59.95 by Advance Local LLC d/b/a Headline Studio on behalf of Reed Exhibitions, 383 Main Avenue, Norwalk CT 06851. Reed Business Information is a division of Reed Elsevier, Inc. Circulation records are maintained at (800) 305-7759. Periodicals Postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to JCK, P.O. Box 5663, Harlan, IA 51537. JCK is a registered trademark of Reed Properties Inc., used under license.
RDI Diamonds pg. 79 Website: rdidiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-874-8768
This advertiser index is published as a convenience and not as part of the advertising contract. Every care will be taken to index correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page number, or failure to insert or include information. Please reference page number listed for more information.
Tasha R pg. 6-7 Website: tashar.com Email: email@example.com Toll-Free: 888-999-1597
Zen Diamond pg. 18-19 Website: zendiamond.com Phone: 201-842-7698
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VERUSCHK A VON LEHNDORFF and Franco Rubartelli met and fell in love. So it was inevitable that the model and photographer would eventually collaborate professionally. Veruschka was very tall—too tall for commercial fashion campaigns—so the lovers turned to body-painting, fabric-draping, feathers, and paillettes in their earliest photographs, soon catching the eye of Vogue editor Diana Vreeland. The two began shooting in exotic locales for the magazine, resulting in this photo in Brazil for Vogue in 1968. Veruschka’s long tresses are curled and teased into ’60s perfection, and the dress she wears is not a dress at all, but a graphic tapestry by Brazilian artist Genaro de Carvalho. Giorgio di Sant’Angelo, the chain-smoking Italian textile, fashion, and jewelry designer, who always wore piles of necklaces and whose aesthetic tended toward the wild and exotic, styled the shot and provided the oversize gold earrings that are unequivocally the star of the show. The earrings recall ancient African tribal styles and spiral into a perfect Fibonacci golden ratio shape. Sant’Angelo, Rubartelli told Vogue, “was an artist in creating jewelry.” —KRISTIN YOUNG
FRANCO RUBARTELLI/CONDÉ NAST/GETTY
The 1960s top model Veruschka was famously captured in outrageous fashions and over-the-top accessories
©2018 Gemological Institute of America, Inc.
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