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11/02/2017 16:40
Sandwich Innovation
The key to a really good sandwich What’s the key to making a really good sandwich? Simon Ambrose investigates
I
was once asked what my favourite sandwich was at a well-known French food show and sandwich competition in Lyons, surrounded by top French chefs and affacionados of all kinds. I was a bit stumped at being put on the spot, if I’m honest, and mumbled something about how wonderful a BLT was, which, as I recollect, didn’t seem to go down too well, partly a result of the schoolboy French I suspect! The French chefs in their turn came up with mainly extraordinary sandwich recipes, of course: mostly totally impractical and none of them commercial in any sense. Victims of their culinary cultural heritage, if I can put it like that, they have a very different idea of food to go. While the straightforward jambon beurre still figures strongly in many French sandwich shops, they still can’t resist thinking in terms of gourmet when it comes to anything else, which seems to me to be slightly missing the point.
Sandwich & Food To Go News Recipe Book 2017 16:40
I well remember one of the efforts in that same sandwich competition, with so much smoked salmon in it you could barely pick it up, and the taste had been seriously compromised with so many other ingredients working against it in a very over-complicated sandwich. But thinking about the question later – as you do – I came to the belated conclusion that great sandwiches are really all about harnessing complementary tastes. The BLT is not a great sandwich by some culinary fluke – it’s because bacon, lettuce and tomato work fantastically well together. A ploughman’s– actually one of my top favourites – also works really well because the combination of those tastes goes really well together. And when it comes down to it, the majority of our best sandwiches on the shelves are actually simple classics, but with a twist. I’ve also really come to believe strongly that
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Sandwich Innovation
simplicity is often really a key to a great sandwich; it’s all too easy to over-complicate but this tendency needs to be resisted – unless you really know what you’re doing, as we shall see shortly. It’s something of a cliché now, but the ingredients really do need to be the hero and they need to balance each other. Interestingly, there also seems to be something of a social media backlash currently about overpretentious food, including sandwiches! Witness the recent Twitter frenzy over a Birds Eye fish finger sandwich competition entry. The humble fish finger sandwich is traditionally made using white bread with the breadcrumbed fish slathered in ketchup or mayonnaise. But this particular Birds Eye entry came under ridicule for including jalapenos, olives and lettuce, and that brought some negative publicity they can have little expected. Having said that, a new breed of sandwich bar owner- ex-restaurant chefs in the main - is changing the face of the premium end of the industry, it seems, with really sophisticated products. Last year, fine dining ex-chef Max Halley won Independent Sandwich Bar of the Year award at The Sammies for his extraordinary sandwich bar ‘Max’s’. It also won rave reviews in The Independent, the Evening Standard and Time Out, has been praised in influential blogs, and been voted Best Cheap Eat in the Observer food awards. The venue is a little scruffy inside and out and unprepossessing in any way but the food is amazing. Max Halle, who has worked in a variety of top restaurants including Arbutus and the Salt Yard Group, makes just four hot sandwiches – they’re complex, conceived as complete meals and all brilliant. And one thing’s for sure - they’re a long way from your usual ‘made in front of the customer’ sandwich in terms of prep time. They demand some serious cooking, well in advance of the process, and certainly not recommended for beginners. 4
Now Mark Jankel, also an ex-chef, is starting to make a splash in London with similarly brilliant gourmet sandwiches with his street food operation Street Kitchen, made up of two U.S Airstream trailers in different London locations and a trendy café. A new sandwich bar is planned over the next few months and he strongly believes there’s a niche opening for what he calls soulful sandwiches and food. As he explains: “I think the high street needs a more soulful version of what the multiples are doing. People like Pret, Eat and Leon are doing a great job. I just think we can do something that’s a bit more soulful. What I meant by soulful is ‘edible emotion’. Quite often with lunchtime food, you eat it and feel fairly indifferent. When you eat our food it makes you feel something. Our food is designed to evoke an emotion – that’s in our DNA.” Like Max’s, these are lovingly prepared sandwiches with high quality ingredients. Take their biggest selling sandwich, for example, a fantastic classic chicken sandwich on Challa bread (Jewish Friday night bread), with their home made tomato chutney and tarragon mayo, chicken leg meat steamed for an hour and with the bones removed, baby gem lettuce and pickled red onions. The combination of tastes is really something to savour. Or what about another customer favourite and his own personal choice: roasted broccoli (roasted raw until it goes dark and golden), which gives a really nice texture, free range eggs which are cooked until the yolks are just cooked – they Sandwich & Food To Go News Recipe Book 2017
Sandwich Innovation
have a machine which cooks 12 eggs at a time for 2 minutes 15 seconds – and pickled carrots, roquette and pickled red onions. He’s also having a lot of success by selling sandwiches by the inch! “One of my friends saw it done in a sandwich bar in San Francisco and it seemed like a great idea. “So we found a baker that made the 24in long subs and had some wooden chopping boards made with inset inch rulers on them, so you can measure them and cut them. “It works really well from a process point of view. You make one sandwich and it probably takes half the time it would take you to make six individually. With sandwiches it’s a bit of a challenge to get the balance of all the ingredients absolutely right: for example, if you use too many pickles or too much mayo, you alter the balance. When you’re making individual sandwiches there’s no way you can weigh out all the individual ingredients – you have to do it by eye, apart from the main protein. But with the 24in you can weight all the individual components in the morning and keep it in pots until you need them for the next sandwich. As long as the staff spread them evenly along the length of the bread it’s fine.” The most anyone’s had is eight inches – on average people usually have four inches. Two is small (equivalent to two slices of bread), three is medium and four is large. What are his best sandwiches by the inch? “The rare beef is one of the best loved: it has caramelised onions, rare roast beef, sliced very thin, pickled cucumber (it’s all home made), roquette or watercress, and then a horseradish mayo. The sandwiches are very much based on what I would like to have at home. We are also supplying sandwiches every day to Selfridges to a couple of different sections. We make them early in the morning and drop them off. “Then there’s our spiced aubergine compote and cauliflower sandwich: roasted aubergines with a spiced tomato compote spread; roasted cauliflower and loads of mint, Sandwich & Food To Go News Recipe Book 2017
coriander and dill; pickled red onions and tahini on the top. It’s a sandwich with a Middle-Eastern feel and it’s also vegan. “The other big favourite is salt cod and roasted pepper: you make a puree out of salt cod after cooking the salt cod in oil, and then blend it into a fishy mayo. That goes on the bottom along with roasted peppers that have been marinated in vinegar and sugar so they are sweet and sour, loads of fennel and sliced basil and paprika mayo. It’s all Spanish really and all really works well together.” Perhaps the biggest benchmark for sandwich innovation and a great opportunity to see how the best sandwiches are put together, can always be seen at the annual Sandwich Designer of the Year competition, held this year at the Lancaster Hotel, London on 11th May. Looking back over the years at all the different winners, is it possible to identify common characteristics that set a budding sandwich designer apart from the rest of the herd? Frankly, no. If it were that easy, good sandwich designers would be two a penny, rather than as rare as hen’s teeth. What can be said, in general is that the winner always has a brilliant sandwich idea, the vision to realise that they’re on to something, and enough confidence in their own abilities in themselves and the product to win the judges over. Winning, in other words, is no easy matter.
5
Tel. 07801 386488 / www.volysstar.be
TURKEY RASHER BRUNCH Ingredients ■
50g Smoked Turkey Rashers (two rashers)
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Slices of Bread
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Provencal Herbs
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Small Lettuce
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1 Egg ■
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50g Tomatoes
Olive Oil
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Butter
Salt and Pepper
Method
1. Place the rashers on the griddle, turning occasionally 1-2 mins 2. At the same time add the tomatoes, season with Provençale herbs, salt and pepper. 3. Poach / Fry egg 4. Toast bread until golden brown 5. Cut toast into strips (Soldiers) place rashers on the toast and top with egg and garnish with lettuce.
COLDWATER PRAWNS PRAWN COCKTAIL BAGUETTE INGREDIENTS Time: 30 min. Servings: 10
2 lbs of coldwater prawns 3 wholegrain baguettes 1 head of romaine lettuce 4 tomatoes 0.5 cup of mayonnaise 0.5 cup of creme fraiche 1 lemon Salt & pepper
COOKING INSTRUCTIONS Mix and stir the mayonnaise and creme fraiche into a dressing, season it with lemon juice, salt and pepper. Clean and peel the lettuce into leaves and slice the tomatoes. Carve the baguettes and garnish them with leaves of lettuce. Add the dressing and coldwater prawns on top. Finish with some tomato slices and serve straight after.
Tip - Add some boiled white asparagus to compliment the delicate flavour of the prawns
Explore our recipes and products on www.royalgreenland.co.uk/foodservice--gastro
Sandwich & Food To Go News Recipe Book 2017
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Sunflower Seed Pesto, Chutney, Roasted Red Pepper, Avocado & Baby Kale Skillet (Vegan) Ingredients: ■ 120g Sourdough bread ■ 25g Sunflower seed pesto or any other pesto ■ 10g Geeta’s Onion Chutney (or Smooth Premium Mango Chutney) ■ 35g Avocado, 10mm slices (dipped in lemon juice, to retain the colour) ■ 35g sliced and drained vine tomatoes ■ 25g Roasted red pepper ■ 6g Watercress ■ 6g Baby kale leaves Method: Take 2 slices of the sourdough bread. Apply a generous coating of the sunflower seed pesto on one slice. Spread the chutney on the other slice. Layer the avocado, roasted red pepper and baby kale, and put the other slice on top to close.
Coronation Chicken Deli Sub Ingredients: ■ 6g Mayonnaise ■ 5g Crème Fraîche ■ 10g Geeta’s Premium Mango Chutney ■ ¼ teaspoon curry powder ■ 40g cooked chicken breasts chopped ■ 5g finely chopped cashews or walnuts ■ 10g baby leaves i.e. lambs lettuce ■ 5g butter / spread ■ Deli Sub Roll ■ 5g Chopped coriander Method: To make the Coronation Chicken Mix: Combine the Mayonnaise, crème fraîche, Geeta’s Premium Mango Chutney and curry powder thoroughly in a bowl, then mix in the chicken and nuts gently. Cut the sub roll in half, length ways. Spread with butter. Layer the baby leaves. Add a generous amount of the Geeta’s coronation chicken mix. Sprinkle the chopped coriander, and close.
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www.geetasfoods.com Sandwich & Food To Go News Recipe Book 2017
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t s e r ve u p s o m e o n y h W sunshine today?
Poached salmon salad with capers and lemon-thyme crème fraîche Serves 4. Prepare - 10 minutes. Cook - 10 minutes 1. Mix the lemon zest, chopped thyme and crème fraîche; season and set aside. Ingredients: • • • • • • • •
170g bag Florette classic crispy salad 4 salmon fillets (about 175g) 1 lemon, zest 12 thyme sprigs, plus 1 tbsp chopped leaves 100ml white wine vinegar 3 bay leaves 1 tbsp (30g) capers in brine, drained and roughly chopped 100ml crème fraîche
2. For the poaching liqueur, slice the zested lemon and add to a wide saucepan with 1 litre cold water, the vinegar, thyme and bay leaves; season with salt and plenty of freshly ground black pepper. 3. Bring the poaching liqueur to the boil and then turn down to the lowest heat. Add the salmon fillets, and let simmer very gently for 10 minutes (make sure the liquid doesn’t boil). Remove and let sit until cool enough to handle. 4. Toss the Florette classic crispy salad with the capers and then roughly flake over the cooked salmon (discard the skin). Dollop the lemon crème fraiche over the top and enjoy!
0831477 FloretteCrispyPress_SANDWICH RECIPE BOOK_210x147.indd 1
26/05/2017 15:32
P R O T E I N F O R S A N D W I C H E S , W R A P S , PA S T Y A N D P I E F I L L I N G S , P I Z Z A T O P P I N G S , PA S TA D I S H E S , S A L A D S A N D R E A D Y M E A L S
Steam cooked chicken breast – sliced Steam cooked chicken breast fillets, skinless, without inner fillet, carved into 5mm slices and IQF frozen
Deluxe tuna chunks in brine
Steam cooked chicken breast fillets – whole Whole steam cooked chicken breast fillets, skinless, without inner fillet, IQF frozen
4 x 3kg pouches 2.94kg drained weight Minimum 80% chunks
Steam cooked chicken breast - diced
Roasted shredded duck
Steam cooked chicken breast fillets, skinless, without inner fillet, diced in 10mm, 13mm or 19mm cubes and IQF frozen
Boneless, skinless, shredded duck meat, deep frozen in 1kg vacuum packs
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Cooking time: 10 minutes
Toad in the Hole Ingredients ■
Frozen & Fully Cooked Meatballs
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Yorkshire Puddings
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Gravy
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Peas
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Mashed Potato
Method
1. Make up the gravy. 2. Meanwhile microwave Frozen & Fully Cooked Meatballs to a core temperature of 75˚C. 3. Cook the peas. 4. Prepare mashed potato
The Snowbird says:
5. Plate up with 4 to 5 meatballs into the Yorkshire pudding and add the mash and peas and pour over the gravy.
sages instead of alternatively use sau vegetables of er oth s meatballs, plu your choice
Spicy and Chunky Chilli
Cooking time: 10 minutes
Ingredients ■
Frozen & Fully Cooked Gourmet Pork Sausage slices
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Chopped Onion
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Green Pepper
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Garlic
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Cumin
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Chilli Powder
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Tomato Puree
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Chopped Tomatoes
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Kidney Beans
Method
The Snowbird says: a jacket potato for an alternative add ta dish. pas a in ve ser and
1. Gently fry onion, garlic and green pepper until soft. 2. Add chilli powder and cumin, then gradually stir in tomato puree and chopped tomatoes and kidney beans and heat through. 12
3. Meanwhile microwave Frozen & Fully Cooked Gourmet Pork sausage slices to a core temperature of 75˚C. 4. Stir the sausage slices into the sauce and serve with rice.
www.snowbirdfoods.co.uk Sandwich & Food To Go News Recipe Book 2017
utes
Sandwich & Food To Go News Recipe Book 2017
13
leaf it up to us for all your salad needs
We have a passion for fresh produce, from humble carrots and onions to the wild and wonderful varieties of lettuce. Why not see what we can offer! Want to learn more about MyFresh? Give us a shout at hello@myfreshprepared.co.uk
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Sandwich ad 18.05.17 v2_Layout 1 19/05/2017 09:13 Page 1
Scallops with chorizo, dill sauce, chorizo jam and watercress in green olive ciabatta bread roll. 10 scallops cut thinly 1520 slices of chorizo Dill mayonnaise Chorizo jam Watercress or salad of choice
The
BIG PRAWN
Co. Co
www.bigprawn.com
Method Sear 10 small scallops in a large nonstick skillet or frying pan for about 12 minutes on each side and until they begin to char. Drizzle with olive oil a pinch of sea salt and black pepper and allow to cool. Sear 15 20 chorizo slices in the same pan turning occasionally until they begin to char.
Crayfish in a rice paper roll filled with mango ginger and a summer salad and served with a sweet chilli and lime sauce. Makes 8 rolls. 150g cooked crayfish tails 1 ⁄2 mango peeled and finely sliced. 8 sheets of rice paper spring roll wrappers, soaked in cold water 5 sprigs of mint leaves 5 sprigs of coriander with stalks 4 sprigs of basil leaves small bunch chives, cut into 10cm lengths 1 carrot, peeled and grated ¼ cucumber, cut into thin matchsticks 1 small head of Lettuce shredded finely 4 tbsp. roasted peanuts, roughly chopped (optional) 150g sweet chilli dipping sauce
Make up Slice and toast the roll. On the base layer spread some of the dill mayo and add a layer of crisp watercress. Interleave the scallops and chorizo and some more of the dill sauce. On the inside of the top layer of the roll, spread a thick layer of chorizo jam. Cut in half and serve.
Make up Allow the rice paper sheets to soak in cold water for about a minute then remove and lay on a piece of cling film. Start building up the ingredients, starting with a handful of crayfish formed in a line along the centre. Add a sprinkling of spring onion and ginger and then the mango pieces topped with a few pieces of lettuce, mint, basil, chopped peanuts, coriander and cucumber. Fold the cling film to form a spring roll. Serve with dipping sauce.
Seafood sarnies For more sandwich ideas and details of our products visit www.bigprawn.com
Lobster poached lobster tail with samphire, crispy bacon, rocket and chilli jam. One whole lobster tail 4 slices of crispy bacon Fresh crispy samphire Tomato chilli jam Method Toast the ciabatta bread. Slice the poached lobster tail. Spread base layer with the Tomato chilli jam. Toss the samphire and rocket in a vinaigrette and arrange on top of the chilli jam. Layer the bacon and then the lobster Serve open.
sales@bigprawn.com 01263 860 303 16
Sandwich & Food To Go News Recipe Book 2017
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Shopping List - Flat Bread - Love Fresh Harrisa Lamb - Love Fresh Morrocan Hummus - Atlantic Lemon, Black Pepper & Chilli Dressing
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Shopping List - Brown Sub Roll - Love Fresh Weeping Tiger Pulled Beef - Atlantic Pineapple & Ginger Dressing - Pad Thai Coleslaw
Weeping Tiger Pulled Beef Sub Roll
Sandwich Fillings • Marinated Meats • Dips Compound Salads • Sauces • Dressing • Mayonnaise For more detailed information on how to build these fantastic recipes or further product and company information, please visit our website: www.calderfoods.co.uk or call: 01228 518888 Calder Foods is part of the Flagship Europe Food Group www.flagshipeurope.eu Tel: 01252 846500
WORKING WITH
SOUTHOVER® NEW YORK PASTRAMI CIABATTA ROLL, SOUTHOVER® Shaved Pastrami, DONATANTONIO mixed roasted peppers, Pesto alla Genovese (or nut free pesto), and fresh rocket salad.
SOUTHOVER® SHAVED SALT BEEF HOT BAGEL SOUTHOVER® shaved salt beef DONATANTONIO Piquillo (sweet & sour) peppers, red pepper sauce, spicy N’duja pork paste, and fresh rocket.
TUSCAN PLOUGHMAN FLATBREAD SOUTHOVER® Milano Salami, DONATANTONIO sliced black olives, sun dried tomato sauce, chipotle & mayonnaise, with fresh rocket salad.
www.southoverfoods.com
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Start your sandwich with Encona, a wide variety of delicious sauces inspired by authentic flavours from around the world.
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16/05/2017 17:00
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Feta & Tabbouleh re on an Arctic Squa Ingredients ■
2x Slices of Arctic Polar Bread
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20g Mayonnaise
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20g Greek Feta
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20g Chef in a Box Falafel & Tabbouleh Mix
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5g Pitted Black Olives
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10g Mixed Leaf Salad
Method
1. Spread the Mayonnaise on one of the Arctic slices. 1. Crumble the Greek Feta evenly over the mayo. 1. Apply a generous amount of Chef in a Box Falafel & Tabbouleh Mix. 1. Scatter some sliced black olives. 1. Top with mixed leaf salad of Spinach, Rocket and Red Chard. 22
Salami & Cream Cheese with Mixed Leaf on Tomato & Olive Bread Ingredients ■
■
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2x Slices of Tomato & Olive Bread 5g Vegetable Spread 25g Soft Cream Cheese 35g Sliced Milano Salami 15g Mixed Lettuce Leaf ■
■
Method
1. Add Vegetable Spread to both sides of the Tomato & Olive bread. 2. Spread the Soft Cream Cheese on one side of the bread. 3. Layer 5 slices of Milano Salami. 4. Add a nice handful of mixed lettuce leaf of spinach, rocket & chard. Sandwich & Food To Go News Recipe Book 2017