Kerry Taylor Auctions

THE ANNABELLE NEILSON COLLECTION OF ALEXANDER MCQUEEN 22nd September 2020

Kerry Taylor

Lucy Bishop

Victoria Ward

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Saleroom Manager, Accounts: Victoria Ward Tel: 00 44 (0)208 676 4600 Fax: 00 44 (0)203 137 0112 Email: info@kerrytaylorauctions.com Front and back cover photographs and inside back cover images courtesy of Ann Ray Introduction photograph, wearing lot 47, courtesy of Tim Walker

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The Annabelle Neilson Collection of Alexander McQueen Auction Tuesday 22nd September 2020 at 2pm

Venue 249-253 Long Lane London SE1 4PR See map on inside back cover

Viewing (by appointment only) Monday 14th to Friday 18th September - 9am to 5pm Sunday 20th September - 11am to 4pm Monday 21st September - 9am to 5pm Morning of sale - 9am to 12pm Viewing for this auction is strictly by appointment only and you must be registered to bid with us in advance.

Social distancing measures will be in place and we ask that you wear a mask during attendance.

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INTRODUCTION To friends and family Annabelle was known by the pet name ‘Tinks’, after Peter Pan’s mischievous Neverland fairy friend, Tinker Bell.

She was introduced to Lee in 1993 by mutual friend Isabella Blow, who had a talent for putting the right people together. At the time, Annabelle had no idea who he was (there was no Google in those days). Recalling their first meeting she wrote, ‘Lee was standing at the bottom of the stairs in his studio, at that time, as I remember it, there were just a couple of work benches with two old sewing machines. For Lee this was quite a step up in the world. Before then, he had been spraying clothes in the back of friends’ gardens and littering their living rooms with pieces of yet to be hand-stitched clothes by the future master himself... I was immediately stripped of my clothes there and then. Lee exclaiming at that point, "Oh you are skinny, aren't you?". I walked into not only the greatest genius of our time in the world of fashion, but into a man who saw far ahead of his world and what fashion would become, and my journey beside him had only just begun…. Issy was happy. As she had predicted, she had found a new double act that might work for one of her shoots’ The pair quickly became firm friends and Annabelle spent a lot of time hanging out at the Hoxton studio, and went on to model in many of the shows. During their 18-year friendship Annabelle became his most trusted ally and muse.

‘However odd we may have been to those who looked at us - we worked. East End gay boy meets skinny English posh bird with a naughty streak’. Years later when reminiscing together, they agreed that ‘the minute blue eyes met brown in his first Hoxton studio, we both knew “here is my soulmate”’

Annabelle wearing lot 47 Photograph courtesy of Tim Walker

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McQueen would often work out an idea for a garment, either in his studio or at home (Annabelle had a bedroom in every home he owned), using her as his dressing-up doll.

Although he sometimes sketched ideas, he was a master tailor and liked to adapt or cut into the fabric or adjust a garment on a body or form.

‘I never quite felt comfortable with the way he would cut clothes with me in them, the scissors a skin cell away from a permanent scar. But Lee was my love, my great defender and my friend.’

Some of the pieces included in the auction are unique. Lots 7, 91 and 92 are examples of rare prototypes - works in progress, giving tantalizing glimpses into McQueen’s design and construction process. The Angels & Demons tunic, lot 92, for example, never went into production. Others he adapted especially for Annabelle, cutting into them to make them shorter or fitted to her individually.

McQueen empathized with women and believed that hardships and struggle could ultimately lead to their strength and empowerment - a theme he was to repeat in many of his collections. He dedicated his critically acclaimed ‘Joan’ collection, Autumn-Winter 1998-99, to Annabelle in recognition of her resilience and ultimate triumph over the personal hardships she had suffered over her lifetime. After every show, the pair would bundle into a car and escape – either abroad or to McQueen’s favourite place in the world, his cottage in Hastings. She recalled, ‘There is one place that was Lee’s real love. A cottage by the sea with a great giant tree - a monolith, a living sculpture. I always called it the “witch’s cottage” and it was where he imagined the 2008 show "The Girl who Lived in the Tree”.’

A talented writer, Annabelle produced a manuscript for him ‘based around a magical girl who travelled like his shows to the end of the world’ and it was this fairytale that inspired the collection (see lots 64-67).

Annabelle commissioned many garments over the years, but many were also given by Lee as presents. He gifted the only garment kept from his Givenchy years - the green lace bias-cut haute couture showpiece from ‘Eclect-Dissect’, Autumn-

Winter 1997-98. Cut from myriad graduated bands of gossamer-fine green lace placed over satin, it is a masterpiece of construction, worthy of a 1930s Vionnet (lot 8). At Givenchy, McQueen experienced for the first time an haute couture atelier able to convert his ideas into garments of consummate perfection and they experienced a couturier who truly understood construction and could cut toiles himself if he so desired.

Annabelle’s prominence on the London social scene, her role in the reality TV series ‘Ladies of London’ and as a frequent companion to McQueen on red carpets everywhere meant that a glamorous wardrobe was a necessity. Usually dressed from head to toe in McQueen, she became the perfect ambassador for the firm.

She wrote, ‘He liked my wackiness—and the fact that when I went out, I made his outfits live.’

To accompany McQueen to the Metropolitan Museum Gala in 2006, she wore the black lace showpiece from ‘Widows of Culloden’, AutumnWinter 2006-07 (lot 43). For his posthumous retrospective at The Met, ‘Savage Beauty’ May 2011, she wore what she called her ‘wedding’ dress: a one-off from Angels & Demons, Autumn-Winter 2010-11, which it seems was specially-made for her, as it never went into production (lot 90).

Uniquely, he also made Annabelle sportswear!

In 2001 she decided to race across the Himalayas in the middle of winter in aid of charity and so he made a pair of rally jumpsuits in purple and white leather. Annabelle loved to ride and shoot and looked very fetching in her McQueen tweed hacking jacket (lots 17 and 73).

Their birthdays were just six days apart and so each year they had a joint party and went on holiday together – skiing in the Alps, scubadiving in Thailand and the Maldives, to name just a few. McQueen often used time spent with Annabelle to devise concepts or think through ideas for his next collections.

The ‘Plato’s Atlantis’ Spring-Summer 2010 collection (inspired by their last trip to Thailand together) was arguably his finest, combining as it did his love of nature, the use of innovative fabrics, glorious colour palette and sublime sculptural shapes. The construction, though seemingly complex, was pared-down, simple but devastating.

The last time the pair went out together they mischievously decided to gate-crash Tom Ford’s private dinner at Harry’s Bar in celebration of the British premiere of his directorial debut ‘A Single Man’. Annabelle wore the lovely pink kaleidoscope-print gown with Swarovski crystals down the back (lot 69) She wrote: ‘I thought it was a terrible idea, but I loved a laugh and the thought of us being denied entrance to Harry’s bar was too exciting as all the good and fabulous had been invited except us. So Lee dressed me up (I had clothes in my bedroom in his place). He went in all beige and I had a pink dress covered in diamonds and a fur coat with a hoody.’ When belatedly offered a place at the table, they declined. ‘Lee just said, “We’re not hungry.” This was his last social engagement, a week before his untimely death. Annabelle later wrote that she thought 'Lee had gone to say goodbye'.

Annabelle’s close relationship with the McQueen fashion house continued via her friendship with creative director Sarah Burton and her collection a reflects this, in the form of beautiful evening gowns, cocktail wear and fabulous shoes and evening bags (lots 94-123).

Her premature death from a heart attack aged 49 came as a shock, following her beloved Lee’s death just 8 years earlier. She left behind a wardrobe that is so much more than mere clothes. Each piece was carefully selected by herself or Lee. Because of her closeness to the designer for whom she acted as muse, she came to know the ideas, the concepts, the journey behind every thread of every garment, making this a unique collection indeed. In her speech at the V&A’s own McQueen retrospective in 2015, she said, ‘Lee above all things was a great storyteller. He transported us all to different worlds with his narrative genius, which brought us willingly and passionately to admire his creations. I loved the storyteller in Lee - the man and human being I miss. I could not have asked for a greater man to share my life with’.

At quiet, shared moments together, Lee liked to read a favourite poem to her that combined both their names – ‘Annabel Lee’ by Edgar Allan Poe, written in 1840. Indeed, as a gift he had the text embroidered onto silk tulle and made into a shawl for her. She said, ‘It’s about a love so strong that it reaches across the grave’. It’s theme the - death of a beautiful woman and a love so strong, that even angels are envious:

And neither the angels in Heaven above Nor the demons down under the sea Can ever dissever my soul from the soul Of the beautiful Annabelle Lee

“here is my soulmate” 3

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1 A rare and important Alexander McQueen gauze top, ‘Highland Rape’ collection, Autumn-Winter 1995-96, unlabelled, deliberately distressed, shot through with irregular scatter holes, graduated rear hem, blue zip to fasten, bust 81cm, 32in; together with a pair of black stretch satin knickers A/W 2015 (2) This was look no. 19 on the catwalk, the bodice worn with black knickers adorned with stubbed-out cigarette butts.

Exhibited: ‘Savage Beauty’, Victoria & Albert Museum, 14th March - 2nd August 2015.

‘Highland Rape’, McQueen’s fifth collection, was the first in which he collaborated with his friend Katy England, making her his in-house stylist. McQueen himself, assisted by fellow Central St Martin’s student Andrew Groves, did all the cutting and machining of the garments in his Clerkenwell studio. The show, which was staged at the Natural History Museum, was the hottest ticket in town. With a runway strewn with heather, models staggered out, their beautifully tailored ensembles and gossamer lace dresses apparently torn and ripped as if from an attack. McQueen’s intended message was the historic annexation and subjugation of Scotland by the English. However, the British tabloid press misconstrued the dishevelled appearance of the models, believing the collection to be a misogynistic and degrading attack on women. The resulting headlines served only to confirm McQueen’s pre-eminence in British fashion. The shock tactics employed, the theatricality, the sombre romance of the show and its clarion call for Scottish independence ensured McQueen’s profile was raised even further. Very few pieces from this original fashion show have survived as bailiffs seized and removed bags containing the collection in a raid over unpaid bills. Literature: ‘Alexander McQueen, Fashion Visionary’ by Judith Watt, pp52-55. £4000 - 6000

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2 Alexander McQueen pair of lilac wool Bumsters, ‘Highland Rape’ collection, Autumn-Winter 1995-96, unlabelled, cut low over the hips, kick slits to rear hems, waist 81cm, 32in

‘Highland Rape’ was the show that really launched McQueen’s career and catapulted him to fame. Not for him a tame catwalk procession of tastefully turned-out models -aim was to shock. With dark contact lenses, bedraggled hair, the girls who staggered at times on the catwalk gave the impression of having been ravaged, attacked. The press railed against what they perceived as his brutal and degrading treatment of women, entirely missing the point that it had been inspired by England’s mistreatment of Scotland during the 1745 Jacobite Rebellion and by the Highland Clearances carried out by English landords during the the 18th century. What the press deemed to be a misogynistic attack was McQueen’s patriotic defence of the Scottish nation and culture.

McQueen delighted in playing with body proportions and the use of ‘Bumsters’ elongated the torso by reducing the waistline as far as possible. In a BBC interview in 2009 he stated that: ‘To me that part of the body - not so much the buttocks, but the bottom of the spine - that’s the most erotic part of anyone’s body, man or woman’. £500 - 700

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3 Alexander McQueen cut velvet evening gown, ‘Dante’, Autumn-Winter 1996-97, unlabelled, steel-grey velvet with overall foliate repeats, unlined, the hem cut short to the front, the floor-length train forming points at each side, bust 86cm, 34in

5 Alexander McQueen oriental brocade satin Bumsters, ‘The Hunger’, Spring-Summer 1996, unlabelled, waist 77cm, 30in £400 - 600 6

Annabelle was photographed wearing this dress to the Edward Enninful party, Oscar Wilde Bar, Hotel Cafe Royal, London, 1st December 2014

6 Alexander McQueen cut velvet evening gown, ‘Dante’, Autumn-Winter 1996-97, unlabelled, woven with overall Paisley motifs, lined in tulle, with graduated rear hem, bust 81cm, 32in

This was look no. 17 on the catwalk, the front skirt hitched up and worn over grey trousers. £800 - 1200

Lee personally altered this dress to fit Annabelle, shortening the rear train and making it fit her form more closely. £300 - 500

4 Alexander McQueen camel wool micro-mini skirt, ‘Dante’, Autumn-Winter 1996-97, narrow black on white label, waist 71cm, 28in £200 - 300

7 Alexander McQueen tulle over-dress, probably a prototype for ‘Dante’, AutumnWinter 1996-97, unlabelled, the chest band formed from a dyed-black military webbing belt, with twin drapes of tulle to the front and caught in swags to each side, adorned with Victorian sequin bands, long side drape with intentionally distressed and discoloured hem, bust approx 81cm, 32in £400 - 600

4A A Philip Treacy ‘bird’s nest’ hat, 1996, inset with taximdermy bird head with glass eyes, mounted within a swirl of brown cockerel and guinea fowl plumes, branded hair clip and hair elastic below, 30m, 12in diam

Annabelle wore this hat to attend the wedding on 8th October 1996 of Louisa Hennan to Lord Guy Brooke, 9th Earl of Warwick. McQueen made the bride’s wedding dress, which is similar to those in his Dante Collection. The bride to be, recalled enjoying at fittings at 2am in the morning with Lee and Annabelle. £400 - 600 7

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8 Givenchy haute couture by Alexander McQueen, green bias-cut lace evening gown, ‘Eclect-Dissect’, Autumn-Winter 1997-98, bearing défilé label, handwritten ‘AH97.Shirley, 17’, the strapless bodice with internal tulle corset, silver-grey satin underdress with trained hem, the pale-green lace cut in bands to follow the curves of the body, bust 81cm, 32in

This was the only garment McQueen kept from his time at Givenchy. Annabelle was photographed wearing this dress to the ‘Black Art and Fashion’ charity auction for Lighthouse Services, June 3rd 2004, hosted by Lee Alexander McQueen. £4000 - 6000

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9 detail

9 label

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9 Alexander McQueen sequined ‘Romanov’ bodice, ‘Joan’, Autumn-Winter 1998-99, yellow on black woven label, size 42, the sequins printed with photographic portrait of the murdered Russian children, lined in black McQ damask; together with a pair of black wool trousers, the legs cut on the curve, size 38, similarly labelled, bust 81cm, 32in, waist 27cm, 69in (2)

12 Alexander McQueen fitted, bias-cut grey wool jacket, ‘Joan’, Autumn-Winter 1998-99, yellow on black label, size 42, the deep scooped neckline with curved lapels, pointed seams front and back, sleeves cut in curves with buttons placed in reverse direction at the cuffs, broad pocket flaps form peplums, lined in red McQ damask, bust 81cm, 32in

The Joan collection was dedicated to Annabelle Neilson by Alexander McQueen. £1500 - 2500

Lee Alexander McQueen dedicated ‘Joan’ to his friend and muse Annabelle Neilson. £600 - 1000

10 Alexander McQueen black cashmere coat, probably ‘It’s a Jungle Out There, AutumnWinter 1997-98, yellow on black label, size 42, double-breasted with well-defined shoulders, sharp lapels, vertical vent pockets to the chest, bust 92cm, 36in £400 - 600

13 Alexander McQueen grey plaid mohair ‘skating’ skirt, ‘The Overlook’, AutumnWinter 1999-2000, yellow on black label, with attached frilled grey taffeta petticoat, together with an unfinished garment in the same fabric; and a pair of pink wool trousers with back slit hems from the same collection, waists 76 and 66cm, 26 and 30in (3) £300 - 500

11 An Alexander McQueen trapunto-quilted leather jacket, ‘Number 13’, Spring-Summer 1999, yellow on black label, size 42, with raised wheat-ear inspired patterns, engraved monogrammed buttons, lined in turquoise McQ damask, chest 92cm, 36in £400 - 600

14 Alexander McQueen pair of striped, brocaded wool Bumsters, ‘The Eye’, SpringSummer 2000, yellow on black label, size 42, with oriental script metal button, curved cutaways to hips and front hems, edged in grey wool, waist 76cm, 30in £300 - 500 15 Alexander McQueen ribbon-trimmed ivory crêpe dress, ‘Eshu’, Autumn-Winter 20002001, yellow on black label, the simple shift with satin ribbons to shoulders and waist, bust 86cm, 34in £300 - 500 16 Alexander McQueen suede and rabbit fur skirt, ‘Eshu’, Autumn-Winter 2000-2001, yellow on black label, size 42, A-line, formed from contrasting harlequin panels, waist 76cm, 30in £350 - 500

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17 Two Alexander McQueen bespoke rally suits, 2001, unlabelled, one in purple leather with black trim, the other in white satinised cotton with pink leather belt and trimmings, ‘McQueen’ appliquéd in leather across the rear shoulders, busts 81cm, 32in (2)

20 Alexander McQueen hussar-inspired jacket, ‘What a Merry Go Round’, Autumn-Winter 2001-2002, dog tag label, size 40, with elaborate black frogging to front panels and sleeves, short Victorian-style tails to the rear, gold ribbon inner edgings, chest approx 81cm, 32in; together with a black cashmere cape with frogging detail to back, unlabelled (2) £400 - 600

These ensembles were worn to drive a rally car across the Himalayas in the middle of winter. £600 - 800

21 Alexander McQueen ‘Buccaneer’ ensemble, ‘Irere’, Spring-Summer 2003, grey label, size 40, comprising woven striped cotton skirt with broad top-stitched leather belt and simple vest top covered in dull gold sequins, bust 86cm, 34in (2)

18 Alexander McQueen pair of black leather Buccaneer boots, ‘Irere’, Spring-Summer 2003, with deep top flaps which can be worn up or down, back lacing, faux antler, curved pointed heels, size 38 1/2 £600 - 800

Annabelle was photographed wearing the gold sequined top to attend the Alexander McQueen party at Harvey Nichols, London, 17th February 2003 and the striped skirt to the MTV party, Cannes Film Festival, 17th May, 2003. £350 - 500

19 Alexander McQueen ivory wool trousers with rhinestone side stripes, 2003, grey label, press label and size 40, together with an ivory chiffon ‘mushroom’ blouse with floral corsages to neck, brown label, preFall 2008, waist (2) £200 - 300

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23 Alexander McQueen black suede and leather shoes, ‘Irere’, Spring-Summer 2003, with chisel toes, suede curleques, curved faux antler heel, size 39 £200 - 300 24 Alexander McQueen soft black kid leather dress, ‘Irere’, Spring-Summer 2003, grey label, the bodice falling in pleats from the ruff collar, the low-slung hipster belt in matching leather, bust approx 81-86cm, 3234in

Annabelle wore this dress for a photo-shoot with Nick Knight *** subject to checking £500 - 800 25 Alexander McQueen panelled black leather jacket, ‘Scanners’, Autumn-Winter 20032004, grey label, with ribbed waist and elbow panels, leather thong side lacing, bust approx 86cm, 34in £400 - 600

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26 Alexander McQueen panelled white leather jacket, ‘Scanners’, Autumn-Winter 20032004, grey label, with ribbed waist and elbow panels, inset and edged in bands of silver and scarlet leather with side lacing, bust approx 86cm, 34in £500 - 800

22 Alexander McQueen gold sequin dress, ‘Irere’, Spring-Summer 2003, grey label, size 40, the dress cut inspired by long 17th century buccaneer’s waistcoats, with concealed mother-of-pearl buttons, pleats to the hips producing graduated front hem, with matching brown leather pirate-style boots, with faux antler spike heels, deep flaps and rear lacing; and a brown leather belt (3)

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27 Alexander McQueen leather and suede ensemble, ‘Irere’, SpringSummer 2003, grey labels, comprising: blue suede laser- cut lace skirt, the matching belt with outsized silvered buckle; black leather waistcoat, unlabelled, with tabbed edges; and a black leather wraparound spencer bodice (worn over the chiffon dresses in the collection), bust approx 81cm, 32in (3) £500 - 900

This was look 16 on the runway. Annabelle was photographed wearing this ensemble to a private view of the ‘Manolo Blahnik Shoe Designs Retrospective’, Design Museum, 30th January, 2003. She also wore the boots with the striped skirt in lot 22 to the MTV party, Cannes Film Festival, 17th May, 2003. £600 - 1000

28 Alexander McQueen pair of studded black leather boots, ‘Scanners’, Autumn-Winter 2003-2004, with angular Western-style toes, the buckled, scalloped over panel with stud and grommet patterns, size 38 (2) £300 - 500

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29 Alexander McQueen tan leather dress, preSpring collection 2004, grey label, with multiple criss-cross straps, perforated leather breast cups and skirt gores, bust approx 81cm, 34in

This was a favourite dress and Annabelle often wore it. She was photographed wearing it to the Glamour Magazine Women of the Year Awards, 6th June 2006, accompanied by Alexander McQueen and Naomi Campbell. £450 - 600 Photograph ⒸAnnRay

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30 Alexander McQueen patchworked evening dress, ‘Deliverance’, Spring-Summer 2004, sticky press sample label to the rear bodice, the upper bodice of ribbed knitted cotton with suture-like irregular stitchlines, nude stretch tulle sleeves, the nude neck insert and flounced over-sleeves adorned with Swarovski crystals, the organza skirt overlaid with a crazy-design patchwork of large dragonflies and flowerheads, with occasional hand-embroidered silk florets, and interspersed with a scattering of white lace fronds, trained hem, bust approx 81cm, 32in

This is probably the show-piece. Annabelle was photographed wearing this dress alongside Kate Moss in Harper’s Bazaar UK May 2011 issue, Editorial: The Real McQueen Models: Kate Moss, Daphne Guinness, Annabelle Neilson £1500 - 2500 31

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31 Alexander McQueen bias-cut floral chiffon dress, ‘Deliverance’, Spring-Summer 2004, unlabelled, formed from harlequin panels of wild flower print and plain ivory lozenges, deep, low scooped back, tousled handkerchief flounces to hem, bust approx 81cm, 32in

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34 Alexander McQueen bias-cut black chiffon evening gown, ‘Deliverance’, SpringSummer 2004, unlabelled, formed from lozenges, deep, low scooped back, tousled handkerchief flounces to hem, bust approx 81cm, 32in £700 - 1000

Annabelle was photographed wearing this to promote the reality TV series ‘Ladies of London’ and also to Kate Moss’ 30th birthday party, 16 January 2004. £1500 - 2500

35 Alexander McQueen bias-cut floral chiffon ensemble, ‘Deliverance’, Spring-Summer 2004, grey label, the bodice formed from over-stitched panels with handkerchief hem, the matching skirt with diagonal mother-of-pearl buttoned closure, the graduated hem with raw edges revealing beige chiffon underskirt, bust approx 81cm, 32in (2) £1000 - 1500

32 Alexander McQueen panelled leather skirt, ‘Deliverance’, Spring-Summer 2004, dark grey label, with faggoted seams that curve to follow the shape of the body, flounced hem, waist 66cm, 26in £200 - 300

36 Alexander McQueen purple draped jersey dress, ‘Pantheon as Lecum’, Autumn-Winter 2005-2006, grey label, size 38, with gently draped cowl neckline, zips to each shoulder, curved, asymmetric hobble skirt, bust approx 81cm, 32in £300 - 500

33 Alexander McQueen bias-cut ivory chiffon evening gown, ‘Deliverance’, SpringSummer 2004, unlabelled, formed from joined diamond panels, deep, low scooped back, tousled handkerchief flounces to hem, bust approx 81cm, 32in £800 - 1200 34

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40 Alexander McQueen ivory jersey evening gown, ‘Neptune’, Spring-Summer 2006, dark grey label and size 38, with integral corset, the breast cups and straps edged in bugle beads and inset with large Swarovski crystals, bust approx 81cm, 32in

Annabelle was photographed wearing this dress accompanied by Edward SpencerChurchill at the Raisa Gorbacheva Foundation party at Hampton Court Palace, 2008. £1500 - 2500

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37 Alexander McQueen patchworked cocktail suit, ‘Deliverance’, Spring-Summer 2004, dark grey label, size 38, formed from patches of ivory to beige woven and textured patches, shaped to emphasise the curves of the body, the seams with decorative over-stitching, the matching skirt with flounced godets to hem, bust 81cm, 32in, waist 72cm, 28in, (2) £700 - 1000

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38 Alexander McQueen black crêpe dinner dress, 2006, press sample label, curved cutwork and tulle foliate bands to rear waist and hips, ties to shoulders, bust 81cm, 32in £200 - 300 39 Alexander McQueen ivory silk/cotton dress, Resort 2006, grey label, with large patch pockets, shaped bodice panels, bust 8186cm, 32-34in £200 - 300 12

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41 Alexander McQueen, emerald green draped chiffon cocktail dress, ‘The Man Who Knew Too Much’, Autumn-Winter 2005-2006, dark grey label, size 40, with integral inner corset, draped and pleated from the shoulders and cinching in at the waist, selftie belt and separate green Swarovski crystal studded belt, flared skirt, bust approx 81cm, 32in (2) £600 - 1000

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42 Alexander McQueen draped green jersey cocktail dress, ‘Neptune’, Spring-Summer 2006, bearing sticky press sample label, ‘#53,’ classically draped front bodice, the low back with shaped plastron covered in gold beads, Swarovski crystals and cabochon green stones, short skirt, bust approx 81cm, 32in This is probably the catwalk piece, look 53. £700 - 1000 43 Alexander McQueen black lace jumpsuit, ‘Widows of Culloden’, Autumn-Winter 2006-2007, unlabelled, lined in nude chiffon, with deep flounce edging the plunging neckline, broad horizontal belt-like band to the hips, the whole spangled with sequins, bust approx 84cm, 36in This is probably the runway piece, look 34.

Annabelle wore this to the Met Gala, 2006 and was photographed wearing it alongside close friends Kate Moss and Alexander McQueen. £2000 - 3000

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44 Alexander McQueen shirred black velvet opera coat, ‘Widows of Culloden’, AutumnWinter 2006-2007, dog tag, size 38, twenties-inspired with high ruff collar, lowset balloon sleeves with arm slits, the shirring emphasising the curves of the shoulders and the small of the back, draped cocoon skirt, bust approx 81cm, 32in

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This was look 44 on the runway. £800 - 1200 45 Alexander McQueen tartan trousers, ‘Widows of Culloden’, Autumn-Winter 200607, grey label and size 38, slightly flared and 3/4 length with turn-ups and dipping rear hems, godets inset at the seat, waist 74cm, 29in; together with an ivory chiffon blouse with jabot, c.2008, with brown label size 38 (2) £400 - 600

47 Alexander McQueen black lace ‘pannier’ evening dress, ‘Sarabande’, SpringSummer 2007, grey label, size 38 and press sample label, with internal corset, dropped shoulders, low ‘bumster’ back, the hips with large pillows to create the desired hourglass silhouette, the skirt cut short at the front with long trained hem, bust 81cm, 32in £3000 - 5000

46 Alexander McQueen quilted black kid leather jacket, ‘In Memory of Elizabeth Howe, Salem, 1692’, Autumn-Winter 20072008, grey label, size 40, very fitted and entirely quilted to follow the contours of the torso, bust 81cm, 32in £300 - 500

48 Alexander McQueen ivory cashmere coat, ‘In Memory of Elizabeth Howe, Salem, 1692’, Autumn-Winter 2007-2008, unlabelled, with leather stand collar, large gilt zip fasteners to front and back seams, shaped bust darts, chest, 92cm, 36in £450 - 600

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49 Alexander McQueen quilted black leather jacket, probably Autumn-Winter 2007-2008, dark grey label and size 42, zip-fastened with thumb-holes in the cuffs, bust 86cm, 34in

Annabelle was photographed wearing this during London Fashion Week, 16th February 2007 £200 - 300 50 Alexander McQueen brown leather waist cincher, ‘In Memory of Elizabeth Howe, Salem, 1692’, Autumn-Winter 2007-2008, with contrasting top-stitching and brass studs, approx 69cm, 27in £150 - 250

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51 Alexander McQueen black crêpe jacket with draped veil, ‘Sarabande’, Spring-Summer 2007, press sample and dog tag labels, size 38, the gored, fitted jacket with organza flowers to neck, capelet attached to the rear sleeves, with hair comb attached to hem, bust approx 81cm, 32in

This was part of look 21 on the catwalk. £800 - 1200 52 Shaun Leane for Alexander McQueen rose thorn choker, Sarabande collection, SpringSummer 2007, of un-assayed silver, the three naturalistic rose briars coil and crisscross around the neck with central hinged joint, concealed closures and thorn safety clasp, 11-14cm, 4-1/4 to 5 1/2in On the catwalk this was worn with the preceding lot - the crepe jacket with integral veil, look 21. £6000 - 8000

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53 boots

53 Alexander McQueen camel cashmere cocktail dress, ‘In Memory of Elizabeth Howe, Salem, 1692’, Autumn-Winter 2007-2008, grey label and press sample label, size 38, with boned strapless bodice, side pockets concealed within curved hip seams; together with a pair of black leather and knitted stocking-boots, size 39 (2)

Annabelle was photographed wearing this dress to attend the launch dinner of The Row, hosted by Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen, at Harvey Nichols on October 9, 2007, in the company of Amy Winehouse. £600 - 1000 54 16

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57 Alexander McQueen black wool dinner dress, ‘In Memory of Elizabeth Howe, Salem, 1692’, Autumn-Winter 2007-2008, grey label, the asymmetric slashed neckline, waist and front kick slit edged in black patent with metal studs, bust 86cm, 34in £400 - 600 58 Alexander McQueen fuchsia-pink satin cocktail dress, Resort 2008, brown label and size 38, strapless with nude inner corset, satin rose corsage, side-draped skirt, bust approx 76cm, 30in £300 - 500 59 Alexander McQueen Prince of Wales checked playsuit, ‘La Dame Bleue’, SpringSummer 2008, grey label, dog tag, press label, size 38, with sharp lapels, cap sleeves, the shorts with turn-ups, bust 81cm, 32in

This was look 11 on the runway. £400 - 600 60 Alexander McQueen black crêpe tuxedo jumpsuit ensemble, pre-Fall 2008, dog tags, comprising sleeveless jumpsuit with black satin lapels, turn-up hems; the jacket with origami-like pleats to rear shoulders and tails, bust approx 81-86cm, 32-34in (2) £500 - 700

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54 Alexander McQueen dégradé silk kimono, ‘La Dame Bleue’, Spring-Summer 2008, grey label size 38 and press sample label, dyed cyclamen pink through to dark purple at the hem, the ‘obi’ belt of cutwork padded black leather threaded with purple and pink satin with thong ties, floor-length trailing furisode sleeves dyed to match; wide, angular padded shoulders, narrow hobble skirt, bust approx 81cm, 32in ; and a pair of matching black patent leather open-toe shoes with side wings and ankle ties, size 37 1/4 (4)

This was look 39 on the runway.

Annabelle was photographed wearing this gown to attend the Vanity Fair Party, Eden Roc, Cannes, 17th May, 2008 £8000 - 12000

55 Alexander McQueen short black crêpe kimono, ‘La Dame Bleue’, Spring-Summer 2008, dog tag, lined in deep fuchsia silk, with furisode sleeves, with black mesh and patent leather waist cincher, bust approx 86cm, 34in (2)

This is a version of look 31 on the runway £800 - 1200 56 Alexander McQueen shoes, various dates, comprising: two pairs of snakeskin shoes, one with gilt skull adornments, lycodonomorphus rufulus, from ‘La Dame Bleue’ SS 2008, a jade-green mock croc evening purse and matching shoes, 2010s, together with a shocking-pink pair similar, sizes 37 to 39 (qty) £120 - 180

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61 Alexander McQueen laser-cut hot pink and black leather cocktail dress, ‘La Dame Bleue’, Spring-Summer 2008, grey label, press sample label, size 38, the V-neck with top-stitched edging, the skirt with designs including bird-of-paradise, Chinese crane, cloud scrolls; with black patent and mesh waist cincher, bust approx 76cm, 30in; and a black leather gilet with top-stitched edges, pink satin lining (3)

This is a version of look 32 on the runway £1000 - 1500

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62 Alexander McQueen separates, circa 2008, all labelled, comprising blue wool doublebreasted jacket; black crêpe jacket with safety pin bands to the sides; and a pair of black gabardine trousers with front lacing, average size Italy 38 (3) £300 - 500

64 Alexander McQueen pair of black lace ankle boots, ‘The Girl Who Lived in the Tree’, Autumn-Winter 2008-2009, size 39; together with a pair of cutwork hide ‘Gothic’ peep-toe stilettos, with skull masks inset with crystals, c.2010, size 37 (4)

63 Alexander McQueen printed chiffon ‘Butterfly’ dress, ‘La Dame Bleue’, SpringSummer 2008, grey label, size 38, sun-ray pleats in rainbow tones, the wing-like sleeves forming a cape to the rear, with integral nude silk slip, gold leather belt, bust approx 86cm, 34in (2) £3000 - 5000 18

A talented writer, Annabelle produced a manuscript for him ‘based around a magical girl who travelled like his shows to the end of the world’ and it was on this fairytale that the show was based. The key colours for the collection were blood-red, black and white, the fabrics floating chiffons, rich ruby satins, digitally-woven silk, figured with a girl and a gnarled ancient tree and McQueen’s beloved Highland tartans. In the story, Annabelle’s

heroine Isabelle leaves her tree, goes through a giant’s garden and through a marble palace where she is pursued by a menacing Prince -

‘The tree that had given her life, the tree she had left to be here. Running, she ran into one of the palace gardens, now she could hear people chasing her, palace guards and him, she needed to escape. She saw each deep blood-red rose that stood, sentries, black crystal thorns, as she felt her own pain. Then she saw it, freedom, there, a small gate, she ran. If it was locked, there would be nowhere to run or hide, she pushed on the gate door and slipped through.’ £150 - 250

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65 detail

65 Alexander McQueen Highland plaid suit, ‘The Girl Who Lived in the Tree’, AutumnWinter 2008-2009, dog tag, size 38, of black and white window-pane check, comprising tailcoat with sharply curved front panels, pointed and folded back short tails, edged in ivory chiffon ruffles, with moulded heraldic buttons, the narrow trousers with ankle zips, chest approx 81cm, 32in, waist 76cm, 30in (2)

This was look 13 on the runway £1500 - 2500 66 Alexander McQueen strapless woven ziberline cocktail dress, ‘The Girl Who Lived in the Tree’, Autumn-Winter 2008-2009, brown label and press sample labels, size 38, with integral corset, the bodice and hem edged in white organza, the skirt woven with the scene of two girls looking into a tree surrounded by fantastic beasts, fairies and flowers, bust approx 81cm, 32in £800 - 1200 66

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69 front

69 back

67 Alexander McQueen black leather tailcoat ‘The Girl Who Lived in the Tree’, Autumn-Winter 2008-2009, dog tag, 18th century inspired, the curved front panels with double row of buttons, similarly adorned cuffs, chest 86cm, 34in £600 - 800

69 Alexander McQueen printed pink ‘Crystal’ dress, ‘Natural Distinction, Un-Natural Selection’, Spring-Summer 2009, white label and size 38, the angular pleats of the front skirt echoing the print, the rear shoulders and back applied with large Swarovski crystal panels, bust 76-81cm, 3032in

68 Alexander McQueen black crêpe cocktail ensemble, Resort 2009, grey label, the strapless dress with stiffened peplums, nude crêpe inserts to front and back, with matching Adrian-inspired jacket with padded shoulders and nude crêpe pocket facings, bust appox 81cm, 32in (2) £400 - 600

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Annabelle was photographed with Lee and Tom Ford wearing this dress in Harry’s Bar, Mayfair, Lee’s last public appearance.

Annabelle later wrote that she thought ‘Lee had gone to say goodbye’.

This was look 23 on the runway. £4000 - 6000

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70 Alexander McQueen printed ‘Kaleidoscope’ suit, ‘Natural Distinction, Un-Natural Selection’, Spring-Summer 2009, white label, dog tag and press label, size 38, the wool-silk mix jacket printed with fractured images of the Eiffel Tower which give the impression of curving vertebrae, the jacket tails folded and pleated to the rear, the pointed front hems with weights, angular padded shoulders with pleats to back; with matching stretch lycra leggings, bust approx 76cm, 30in (2)

This was look no. 30 on the runway. This is probably the sample worn in the show. It is illustrated in ‘Alexander McQueen: Fashion Visionary’ by Judith Watt, pp192. Annabelle was photographed wearing this on numerous occasions including ‘Fashion for Relief Haiti’ show, 18th February, 2010 where she consoled her friend Kate Moss and also to the Prada Congo Art party, 10th February 2009. £2000 - 3000 21

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71 Alexander McQueen strapless black organza cocktail dress, ‘Natural Distinction, Un-Natural Selection’, Spring-Summer 2009, white label, press sample and size 40, with black satin V insertion to bodice front, the skirt caught and gathered in layered folds front and back, bust approx 81cm, 32in £500 - 700

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72 Alexander McQueen printed ‘kaleidoscope’ dress, ‘Natural Dis-tinction, Un-Natural Selection’, Spring-Summer 2009, white label and size 38, the silk-wool mix printed with crystal-like patterns and Eiffel Tower girders truncated and layered to give the impression of vertebrae, bust 86cm, 34in

74 Alexander McQueen woven satin ‘coil’ dress, ‘Natural Dis-tinction, Un-Natural Selection’, Spring-Summer 2009, white label, digitally woven to give the impression of metal, with low scooped neckline, curved shoulders with tight sleeves and short skirt, bust 76-82cm, waist 61cm, 24in

Annabelle was photographed wearing this dress in the company of Alexander McQueen in 2009 £500 - 700

This was look 32 on the runway. £800 - 1200 73 Alexander McQueen tweed hacking jacket, pre-Fall 2009, dog tag and press sample labels, size 38, of traditional checked tweed with faux leather buttons, swallow tails to rear; and two Edwardian-inspired waistcoats in black and green wool, busts approx 81cm, 32in (3)

Annabelle used to wear the jacket when she went shooting £300 - 500

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75 Alexander McQueen black fur cape, ‘The Horn of Plenty’, Autumn-Winter 2009-10, with white label and dog tag, the goat fleece in imitation of monkey fur, lined in black silk with slits for the arms

Annabelle was photographed wearing this cape accompanied by Lee to the Embassy Exhibition, London, 2009and also to attend the private view of the Anselm Kiefer exhibition, accompanied by Alexander McQueen, White Cube Gallery, London, 15th October, 2009 £800 - 1200 76 Alexander McQueen hound’s tooth checked jacket, ‘The Horn of Plenty’, Autumn-Winter 2009, dog tag, with fringed braid edging and back zip, bust 81cm, 32in; together with a draped black crêpe dress, 2010, with draped skirt, grey label, bust 81cm, 32in (2) £400 - 600

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79 Alexander McQueen printed silk jersey and organza dress, ‘Plato’s Atlantis’, SpringSummer 2010, grey label, size 38, printed, mainly shades of blue and pink, with long sleeves, undulating organza ruffles to the drop-waisted skirt, bust 81-86cm, 32-34in £800 - 1200 80 Alexander McQueen black and blue crêpe and stretch jersey tailcoat, ‘Plato’s Atlantis’, Spring-Summer 2010, dog tag, with cut-away waterfall drapes to the front skirt, back panel and sleeves cut in one piece in jersey with tabs centre back, bust 81cm, 32in £350 - 500

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81 Alexander McQueen rubberised silk skirt and black leather harness bodice, ‘Plato’s Atlantis’, Spring-Summer 2010, grey label, with shades of blue prism-like prints, to the draped and gathered skirt, waist 69cm, 27in; the padded leather with overall blistered texture, press sample label (2)

The leather bodice is part of look 36 on the runway. £300 - 500 82 Alexander McQueen green shagreen evening purse, ‘Plato’s Atlantis’ collection, Spring-Summer 2010, with crystal inset skull clasp, lined in purple leather, with McQueen press sample label, 16.5cm, 16 1/2in £300 - 500

77 Alexander McQueen black fur capelet, probably ‘Horn of Plenty’, Autumn-Winter 2009-10, unlabelled, of black goat hair, with long front ties £300 - 500 78 Alexander McQueen knitwear, mainly preFall 2009, all labelled, comprising: polished cable knit dress with short sleeves, coiled chain buttons; a finer knit sweater dress with sleeve openings and ribbed waist; and a knitted silk tailcoat, average size bust 8186cm, 32-34in (3) £500 - 900

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83 Alexander McQueen printed organza and cutwork suede ‘Moth’ dress, ‘Plato’s Atlantis’, Spring-Summer 2010, grey label, size 38 and press sample label ‘look 13’, the cloth of silver bodice and sides overlaid with shaped metallic-green suede laser-cut with graduated hexagons, with moth print pleated chiffon centre panels and draped skirt; together with matching nude under-corset, bust approx 81cm, 32in (2) On their last holiday in Thailand together, Annabelle described,

‘We had adjoining rooms. I went in to have breakfast with him, but the room was empty.

There were 12 pieces of paper on the table, all with the same simple sketch, almost like a tailor’s dummy, but then I got to the last sheet and there was the first dress from the Plato’s Atlantis show [SS10], and it was perfect. It literally took my breath away - a tingle ran through my body, the hairs on the back of my neck stood up. This was going to be one of his most amazing shows. I said: “My God, you’ve done it.” He just smiled.’ £8000 - 12000 83 24

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84 front

84 back

84 Alexander McQueen printed organza and satin dress, ‘Plato’s Atlantis’, Spring-Summer 2010, with press sample label handwritten ‘Commercial look 2’, with printed collage of moth and snakeskin details developed from fractals of specimens, the shaped satin bodice and front panels overlaid with drapes of printed chiffon, bust 81cm, 32in £3000 - 5000 85 A rare pair of Alexander McQueen ‘Shipwreck’ boots, ‘Plato’s Atlantis’, Spring-Summer 2010, of mottled greenbronze finished leather, with elevated platforms, squared-off toes, the heels formed from bolted-together pierced metal panels, size 3925cm, 9 3/4in high

The idea for the ‘Shipwreck’ boots with heels formed from tarnished, rivetted strips of metal and verdigris-effect leather was inspired by one of their subterranean scuba explorations to a rusting hulk resting on the seabed. £2000 - 3000 85

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86

86 Alexander McQueen rare pair of ‘Shipwreck’ ballet shoes, ‘Plato’s Atlantis’, Spring-Summer 2010, the elevated platforms in dark blue satin with squared toes, the heels formed from pierced metal plates held together by nuts and bolts, size 39, 23cm, 9in high (2) £1500 - 2500

88 front

87 Alexander McQueen woven silk and nude mesh dress, ‘Plato’s Atlantis’, Spring-Summer 2010, with linked shaped panels of moth, paisley, striped and spotted silk, bust 81cm, 32in £800 - 1200

87 26

88 Alexander McQueen woven ‘gothic’ silk dress, ‘Angels & Demons’, AutumnWinter 2010-11, grey label, size 38, with diagonally overlapping bodice front fastened with a gilt filigree button, the skirt falling in angular drapes, the back with centrally-pleated point from hem to neck, woven in gold and yellow with gothic clawed beasts, bust 81cm, 32in £2500 - 3500

88 back

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89 Alexander McQueen ‘Hieronymous Bosch’ dress, ‘Angels & Demons’, Autumn-Winter 2010-11, grey label and press sample ‘#26’, size 38, of dense woven silk, the design taken from Bosch’s ‘Garden of Earthly Delights’, with integral corset, left sleeve and front skirt panel of black satin with raised-work floral embroidery in gold thread, with draped rear train from shoulders to skirt, bust approx 81cm, 32in

Annabelle wore this dress to attend the Memorial Service for Lee Alexander McQueen, Saint Paul’s Cathedral, 20th September, 2010 where she made an address £4000 - 6000

detail

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90 detail

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90 Alexander McQueen ivory satin gown with beadwork feathers, ‘Angels & Demons’, Autumn-Winter 2010-11, with manufacturer’s label, bias-cut with long, trained skirt, the shoulders entirely covered in plume-like bands formed from long matt silver metal beads with Swarovski crystal central ‘necklace’, bust 81-86cm, 32-34in

Annabelle referred to this as her ‘wedding’ dress and told her family that it was the only one in existence. She was photographed wearing it to the Metropolitan Museum Costume Institute Gala, for the opening of the Alexander McQueen Retrospective - ‘Savage Beauty’, 2nd May, 2011.

Although this dress did not appear in the small ‘Angels & Demons’ collection show in Paris, the manufacturer’s label clearly shows it was made for that collection. It probably never went into full production. £3000 - 5000 28

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91 Alexander McQueen unfinished grey tweed redingote for Annabelle Neilson, 2009 or early 2010, the jacket section with manufacturer’s label for A/W 2010, ‘School Blazer’ with ink marks to show button hole and shoulder decoration placements, draped pannier sides and graduated hem culminating in a long unfinished train, bust approx 86cm, 92in

Lee would often visit Annabelle at her home and would adapt/alter clothes especially

for her, pinning and cutting before returning them to the studio to be finished.

The back pleats are redolent of some of the “Angel” dresses from Autumn-Winter 2010.

This garment clearly demonstrates his mastery in tailoring and drape. It is very much a work in progress and was probably intended as part of the main A/W 2010-11 collection or subsequent collection. This prototype is likely to have been one of the last pieces Lee worked on £800 - 1200

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92 front

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92 Alexander McQueen rare tunic, probably a prototype for ‘Angels & Demons’, AutumnWinter 2010-11, unlabelled, with integral torso-length black satin corset, the satin printed en grisaille with photographic details taken from Hieronymous Bosch’s diptych exterior doors from ‘The Gardens of Earthly Delights’, the black and gold picture frame used as edging borders for the jacket, the sculpted, tightly-fitting garment lightly padded throughout, with zip to rear and cuffs, a row of tacking stitches remain down the centre-front, bust 76cm, 30in

We believe this tunic to be a one-off, made especially for Annabelle as part of Lee’s design process £3000 - 5000

91 detail

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95

95 Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton floral gold leather shoes, Spring-Summer 2011, with layered 3D petals and leaves, tall moulded resin heels, size 36; together with a white leather ‘gaucho’ style belt with gilt buckles from the same collection (3)

Annabelle was photographed wearing these shoes, along with the dress in the following lot, to the ‘Global Party’ at the Natural History Museum, 8th September 2011 £250 - 400

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93 Alexander McQueen red satin evening gown, Resort 2010, grey label and size 38, with rounded padded shoulders, pleated cowl decollete, V-shaped waist and trained hem, bust approx 92cm, 36in

97 Alexander McQueen pleated ivory chiffon halter-neck gown, pre-Fall 2011, unlabelled, with choker-collar of Swarovski crystals, the centre-front bodice split to just above the waist, low back, with matching belt, bust approx 81cm, 32in (2) £700 - 1000

Cameron Diaz wore an identical dress to attend the 67th Golden Globe Awards, January 17th, 2010 £800 - 1200

98 Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton pink and grey lizard knuckle-duster clutch, 2011, the gilt metal clasp cast with skulls and flowers, and inset with large tourmaline coloured stones, 23cm, 9in long £300 - 500 96

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94 Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton burgundy snakeskin knuckle-duster clutch, 2011, lycodonomorphus rufulus, the gilt metal clasp with skulls and flowers, and inset with large aquamarine-coloured stones, 23cm, 9in long £300 - 500 30

96 Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton lavishly beaded and embroidered ivory organza cocktail dress, Spring-Summer 2011, grey label and size 38, the bodice front inset with central dragonfly motif, accented across the midriff and sleeves with mother-of-pearl buttons, bust 81cm, 32in

Annabelle was photographed wearing this dress, along with the shoes in the previous lot, to the ‘Global Party’ at the Natural History Museum, 8th September 2011 £1200 - 1800

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102 Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton black leather floral ankle boots, Spring-Summer 2011, with squared-off brass toe caps, 3D leather petals and leaves, multiple gilt buckles, the heel in the form of a moulded resin flower-head and stem, size 39; together with a matching black leather belt with multiple buckles (3) £600 - 900 103 Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton peach draped jersey cocktail dress, SpringSummer 2012, dark grey label, size 38, the bodice and short skirt falling in Grecian drapes, bust 81cm, 32in £200 - 300 99

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99 Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton black silk jersey ‘Goddess’ gown, Resort 2013, grey label, size 38, with Swarovski crystal halter-neck, the skirt falling in ruched drapes front and back with floating panel to centre-front, bust approx 81cm, 32in £400 - 600

104 Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton orange organza evening gown, Spring-Summer 2013, grey label, size 38, with large-scale peony print overall, boned strapless bodice and full skirt; together with faux tortoiseshell ‘bee’ belt, bust approx 81cm, 32in (2)

100 Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton ‘honey bee’ ankle boots, Spring-Summer 2013, stamped ‘McQueen’ to the insole, with Swarovski ‘honey’ crystal-filled platform sole and shaped heel, black lurex honeycomb mesh and patent upper with ankle strap, size 38 (2) £300 - 500 101 Alexander McQueen mainly by Sarah Burton, a group of bags, belts and shoes, mainly 2010s, including black and white zebra-striped snakeskin ‘Heroine’ clutch with matching shoes, lycodonomorphus rufulus; together with three other clutches and a red leather Novak handbag, A/W 2005, and others, shoes size 37 (8) £150 - 200

Annabelle was photographed wearing this gown to the annual Serpentine Gallery summer party 26th June, 2013 £600 - 1000

100

105 Alexander McQueen mainly by Sarah Burton group of footwear, various dates, seven pairs including pink Mary-Janes with rhinestone and pearl flowerheads, S/S 2004 and later; electric blue ankle boots; black leather sandals with wiggle-wire heel; tall black laced ankle boots and others, mainly sizes 37-38 (qty) £120 - 180 31

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106 Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton embellished black crêpe evening gown, Autumn-Winter 2013-14, grey label and size 38, with curving velvet bands to yoke, waist and cuffs, the V-neckline and shoulders edged and outlined in tourmaline-coloured Swarovski crystals, gold bugle beads, gilt strips and rings, bust 81-86cm, 32-34in

Annabelle wore this dress to a dinner party in one of the ‘Ladies of London’ episodes, 22nd September, 2015. £1500 - 2500 107 Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton: three assorted clutch bags with skull clasps, circa 2011, comprising black patent example with crystal-studded skull, 16cm, 6 1/4in; rectangular black satin example with small gilt clasp, 17cm, 6 3/4in long; and a large black voided velvet example with patent lifter clasp, 38cm, 15in £150 - 250 108 Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton gilt studded knuckle-duster clutch, 2011, of tan suede, aquamarine-coloured stones, 23cm, 9in long £300 - 500

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109 Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton embellished black crêpe evening jacket, pre-Fall 2014, dog tag, the shoulders and stand collar entirely covered with bunches of Swarovski crystal flowers, bust 81-86cm, 32-34in £600 - 900 110 Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton black wool double-breasted jacket with flared sleeves, Autumn-Winter 2015-16, grey label and dog tag, double-breasted with large leather-covered buttons, chest 81-86cm, 32-34in £200 - 300 111 Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton white broderie anglaise dress and green leather jacket, pre-Fall 2015, both labelled and size 38, the sleeveless dress with contrasting cutwork and piqué panels; the leather jacket with curved front hem and multiple zips, average size 81-86cm, 32-34in (2) £200 - 300

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115 Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton silvergrey crêpe ‘butterfly’ gown, Autumn-Winter 2016, grey label and size 42, the boned bodice plastered with Swarovski crystal butterflies and shooting stars, bust 8186cm, 32-34in; with pair of matching crystal-studded elevated platforms, size 37 (3) £800 - 1200

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112 Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton trimmed pink-grey fox fur capelet, pre-Fall 2014, grey label, graduated grey-pink tones from neck to hem, lined in pink satin £500 - 700 113 Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton pink fox fur stole, pre-Fall 2014, unlabelled, lined in pink satin; together with a pink crêpe and satin banded cocktail dress, S/S 2012, with pleated tulle breast cups and modesty panel, bust 81cm, 32in, waist 61cm, 24in (2) £200 - 300 114 Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton shaved mink and black fox fur jacket, Autumn-Winter 2014-15, grey label and dog tag, with deep fox bands to the cuffs and edges and pendant tails to front hem, bust approx 86cm, 34in £600 - 1000 113

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116 Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton black wool crêpe evening gown, Autumn-Winter 2014-15, grey label, with Swarovski crystal eyelets through which slots a satin ribbon at the neck, horizontal black lines to the waist and hips and long kick-split to skirt front, bust 81cm, 32in £300 - 500 117 Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton black leather dress, McQ Spring-Summer 2016, manufacturer’s label, with flared front panels tucked and pleated behind front waistband, bust 81cm, 32in £150 - 250 118 Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton floral bias-cut chiffon gown, Spring-Summer 2018, grey label, size 38, with ruffles to neckline, 30s-style tiny buttons to fasten, bust approx 81cm, 32in

This is the last dress Annabelle purchased, but it was never worn £200 - 300 119 Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton footwear, 2010s, seven pairs including snakeskin stilettos, lycodonomorphus rufulus, shocking-pink patent peep toes, three pairs of ankle boots and others, sizes 37 to 39 (qty) £120 - 180 120 Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton black satin knuckle-duster clutch, circa 2015, the elaborate gilt clasp with large crystal inset flower-head and small skull amid entwined coiling briars, 17cm, 6 3/4in long £250 - 350 121 Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton silver snakeskin knuckle-duster evening purse with chain, circa 2011, lycodonomorphus rufulus, the clasp formed from pair of pearl and crystal inset skulls wearing gilt crowns, 12cm, 4 3/4in £200 - 300

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122 Alexander McQueen, mainly by Sarah Burton, group of belts, including coiling pink and gold snakeskin waist cincher, S/S 2012, lycodonomorphus rufulus, black and tan leather belts, pre-Fall 2010, with metal plaid pin buckles and others (7) £150 - 250

123 Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton fringed and sequined evening gown, preFall 2017, unlabelled, the nude tulle ground adorned with flowering plants from neck to hem, some with pendant fringes, bust 81cm, 32in

This was look 47 on the runway.

This is the last dress Annabelle wore in public - to the wedding of her close friend Lord Edward Spencer-Churchill at Blenheim Palace, July 7th 2018, just 2 weeks before her tragic death £700 - 1000

END OF SALE

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Copyright Rex Features

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There is no VAT charged on lot prices unless otherwise specified in the catalogue by the following symbols Property with a † symbol These items will be sold under the normal UK Vat rules and VAT will be charged at 20% on both the hammer price and buyer’s premium.

Property sold with a ‡ symbol.

These items have been imported from outside the EU to be sold at auction under temporary importation.

VAT will be charged at 5% of the hammer price and 20% on the buyer’s premium.

Property sold with a Δ symbol.

These items require a CITES licence to export outside of the EU. These cost £59 each and we are happy to assist our clients with applications.

Payment Payment is due immediately after the sale in Pounds Sterling and may be made by Banker’s draft, Cashier’s cheque, Personal cheque, Wire transfer, Credit cards, Debit cards, Cash and Traveller’s cheques. Payments should be made to Kerry Taylor Auctions. Cash payments will not be accepted above £6,000 or $10,000.

Payments in person can be made in the saleroom on the day of the sale, after this payments must be made by post, credit, debit card or wire transfer

Credit Cards Most major credit card brands are accepted, however surcharges will be added as follows to cover the charge made to us by our bank: Visa and UK Mastercard 3.1%; AMEX 1.78%; EU Mastercard 3.1%; International Mastercard 3.6%. For payments over £20,000 the cardholder must be present. There is no charge for using Debit cards.

Please note it may be advisable to notify your credit card provider of your intended purchase in advance, to reduce delays caused by us having to seek authority when you come to pay.

Payment by Cheque If payment is to be made by cheque and the cheque exceeds the cheque card guarantee limit, then goods can only be collected on the day of the sale if the buyer is known to us, or if accompanied by a letter from your bank to guarantee your cheque. Cheques often take as long as eight days to clear. We reserve the right to hold goods until a cheque is cleared.

Electronic & Wire Transfers Wire transfers can be made to Bank of Scotland 59 Bath Street, Glasgow, G2 2DH Sort code: 12-24-81 Account number: 10040762 Account name: Kerry Taylor Auctions Limited Iban: GB28BOFS12248110040762 SWIFT: BOFSGBS1BBL If paying by bank transfer the amount received after either the deduction of bank fees or for the conversion to pounds sterling, must not be less than the sterling amount payable on the invoice.

Bidding in Person To bid with us you must register to obtain a bidding number. Before the auction, fill in the form at the registration desk, provide proof of identity and you may be given a paddle number. All lots sold will be invoiced to the name and address in which the paddle has been registered and may not be transferred to other names and addresses. If you instruct an agent to bid on your behalf you will need to provide a letter of authority and they will also need to provide proof of identity. Kerry Taylor Auctions reserves the right to refuse. Please hand back the paddle after use.

Commission bids Commission bids are confidential and will be executed at no extra charge. Kerry Taylor Auctions endeavours to purchase lots as cheaply as possible, allowing for other bids and the reserves. Absentee bidding forms can be found at the back of the catalogue and should be completed and faxed at the number shown at the front of the catalogue. Please do not post in commission bid slips. It is in your interests to return your form as soon as possible as if two or more bidders submit identical bids for a lot, the first bid received takes preference. All bids should be received at least 24 hours before the start of the sale. It is your responsibility to check with us that your bid has been received. If you have never bid with Kerry Taylor Auctions before (even though you may be a past Sotheby’s client) you must also provide proof of identity. Failure to do this may result in your bids not being processed.

Successful commission bidders will be notified by email immediately after the sale or you can phone us. Full payment must be sent to the Auctioneers.

DESIGN AND PRODUCTION Jamm Design Ltd www.jammdesign.co.uk

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Photograph courtesy of Ann Ray

And neither the angels in Heaven above Nor the demons down under the sea Can ever dissever my soul from the soul Of the beautiful Annabelle Lee ‘Annabel Lee’ by Edgar Allan Poe

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CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS FOR BUYERS 1. Introduction (a) The contractual relationship of Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd &. and Sellers with prospective Buyers is governed by:(i) these Conditions of Business for Buyers; (ii) the Conditions of Business for Sellers displayed in the saleroom and available from Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd; (iii) Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd’s Authenticity Guarantee; (iv) any additional notices and terms printed in the sale catalogue, in each case as amended by any saleroom notice or auctioneer’s announcement. (b) As auctioneer, Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd acts as agent for the Seller. Occasionally, Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd may own or have a financial interest in a lot.

2. Definitions “Bidder“ is any person making, attempting or considering making a bid, including Buyers; “Buyer“ is the person who makes the highest bid or offer accepted by the auctioneer, including a Buyer’s principal when bidding as agent; “Seller“ is the person offering a lot for sale, including their agent, or executors; “KT” means Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd of 249-253 Long Lane, London SE1 4PR, company number 7173571 “Buyer’s Expenses” are any costs or expenses due to Kerry Taylor Auctions from the Buyer; “Buyer’s Premium“ is the commission payable by the Buyer on the Hammer Price at the rates set out in the Guide for Prospective Buyers; “Hammer Price“ is the highest bid for the Property accepted by the auctioneer at the auction or the post auction sale price; “Purchase Price“ is the Hammer Price plus applicable Buyer’s Premium and Buyer’s Expenses; “Reserve Price“ (where applicable) is the minimum Hammer Price at which the Seller has agreed to sell a lot.

The Buyer’s Premium, Buyer’s Expenses and Hammer Price are subject to VAT, where applicable.

3. Examination of Lots (a) KT’s knowledge of lots is partly dependent on information provided by the Seller and KT is unable to exercise exhaustive due diligence on each lot. Each lot is available for examination before sale. Bidders are responsible for carrying out examinations and research before sale to satisfy themselves over the condition of lots and accuracy of descriptions. (b) All oral and/or written information provided to Bidders relating to lots, including descriptions in the catalogue, condition reports or elswhere are statements of KT’s opinion and not representations of fact. Estimates may not be relied on as a prediction of the selling price or value of the lot and may be revised from time to time at KT’s absolute discretion.

4. Exclusions and limitations of liability to Buyers (a) KT shall refund the Purchase Price to the Buyer in circumstances where it deems that the lot is a Counterfeit, subject to the terms of KT’s Authenticity Guarantee. (b) Subject to Condition 4(a), neither KT nor the Seller:(i) is liable for any errors or omissions in any oral or written information provided to Bidders by KT, whether negligent or otherwise; (ii) gives any guarantee or warranty to Bidders and any implied warranties and conditions are excluded (save in so far as such obligations cannot be excluded by English law), other than the express warranties given by the Seller to the Buyer (for which the Seller is solely responsible) under the Conditions of Business for Sellers; (iii) accepts responsibility to Bidders for acts or omissions (whether negligent or otherwise) by KT in

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connection with the conduct of auctions or for any matter relating to the sale of any lot. (c) Without prejudice to Condition 4(b), any claim against KT and/ or the Seller by a Bidder is limited to the Purchase Price for the relevant lot. Neither KT nor the Seller shall be liable for any indirect or consequential losses. (d) Nothing in Condition 4 shall exclude or limit the liability of KT or the Seller for death or personal injury caused by the negligent acts or omissions of KT or the Seller.

5. Bidding at Auction (a) KT has absolute discretion to refuse admission to the auction. Before sale, Bidders must complete a Registration Form and supply such information and references as KT requires. Bidders are personally liable for their bid and are jointly and severally liable with their principal, if bidding as agent (in which case KT’s prior and express consent must be obtained). (b) KT advises Bidders to attend the auction, but KT will endeavour to execute absentee written bids provided that they are, in KT’s opinion, received in sufficient time and in legible form. (c) When available, written and telephone bidding is offered as a free service at the Bidder’s risk and subject to KT’s other commitments; KT is therefore not liable for failure to execute such bids. Telephone bidding may be recorded.

6. Import, Export and Copyright Restrictions KT and the Seller make no representations or warranties as to whether any lot is subject to import, export or copyright restrictions. It is the Buyer’s sole responsibility to obtain any copyright clearance or any necessary import, export or other licence required by law, including licenses required under the Convention on the International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES).

7. Conduct of the Auction (a) The auctioneer has discretion to refuse bids, withdraw or re-offer lots for sale (including after the fall of the hammer) if (s)he believes that there may be an error or dispute, and may also take such other action as (s)he reasonably deems necessary. (b) The auctioneer will commence and advance the bidding in such increments as (s)he considers appropriate and is entitled to place bids on the Seller’s behalf up to the Reserve Price for the lot, where applicable. (c) Subject to Condition 7(a), the contract between the Buyer and the Seller is concluded on the striking of the auctioneer’s hammer. (d) Any post-auction sale of lots shall incorporate these Conditions of Business.

8. Payment and Collection (a) Unless otherwise agreed in advance, payment of the Purchase Price is due in pounds sterling immediately after the auction (the “Payment Date”). (b) Title in a lot will not pass to the Buyer until KT has received the Purchase Price in cleared funds. KT will generally not release a lot to a Buyer before payment.

Earlier release shall not affect passing of title or the Buyer’s obligation to pay the Purchase Price, as above. (c) The refusal of any licence or permit required by law, as outlined in Condition 6, shall not affect the Buyer’s obligation to pay for the lot, as per Condition 8(a). (d) The Buyer must arrange collection of lots within 10 working days of the auction. Purchased lots are at the Buyer’s risk from the earliest of (i) collection or (ii) 10 working days after the auction. Until risk passes, KT will compensate the Buyer for any loss or damage to the lot up to a maximum of the Purchase Price actually paid by the Buyer. KT’s assumption of

risk is subject to the exclusions detailed in Condition 5(d) of the Conditions of Business for Sellers. (e) All packing and handling of lots is at the Buyer’s risk. KT will not be liable for any acts or omissions of third party packers or shippers.

9. Remedies for non-payment Without prejudice to any rights that the Seller may have, if the Buyer without prior agreement fails to make payment for the lot within 5 working days of the auction, KT may in its sole discretion exercise 1 or more of the following remedies:(a) store the lot at its premises or elsewhere at the Buyer’s sole risk and expense; (b) cancel the sale of the lot; (c) set off any amounts owed to the Buyer by KT against any amounts owed to KT by the Buyer for the lot; (d) reject future bids from the Buyer; (e) charge interest at 4% per annum above The Bank of England’s Base Rate from the Payment Date to the date that the Purchase Price is received in cleared funds; (f) re-sell the lot by auction or privately, with estimates and reserves at KT’s discretion, in which case the Buyer will be liable for any shortfall between the original Purchase Price and the amount achieved on re-sale, including all costs incurred in such re-sale; (g) exercise a lien over any Buyer’s Property in KT’s possession, applying the sale proceeds to any amounts owed by the Buyer to KT. KT shall give the Buyer 14 days written notice before exercising such lien; (h) commence legal proceedings to recover the Purchase Price for the lot, plus interest and legal costs; (i) disclose the Buyer’s details to the Seller to enable the Seller to commence legal proceedings.

10. Failure to collect purchases (a) If the Buyer pays the Purchase Price but does not collect the lot within 14 working days of the auction, the lot will be stored at the Buyer’s expense and risk at KT’s premises or in independent storage. (b) If a lot is paid for but uncollected within 6 months of the auction, following 60 days written notice to the Buyer, KT will re-sell the lot by auction or privately, with estimates and reserves at KT’s discretion. The sale proceeds, less all KT’s costs, will be forfeited unless collected by the Buyer within 2 years of the original auction.

11. Data Protection (a) KT will use information supplied by Bidders or otherwise obtained lawfully by KT for the provision of auction related services, client administration, marketing and as otherwise required by law. (b) By agreeing to these Conditions of Business, the Bidder agrees to the processing of their personal information and to the disclosure of such information to third parties world-wide for the purposes outlined in Condition 11(a) and to Sellers as per Condition 9(i).

12. Miscellaneous (a) All images of lots, catalogue descriptions and all other materials produced by KT are the copyright of KT. (b) These Conditions of Business are not assignable by any Buyer without KT’s prior written consent, but are binding on Bidders’ successors, assigns and representatives. (c) The materials listed in Condition 1(a) set out the entire agreement between the parties. (d) If any part of these Conditions of Business be held unenforceable, the remaining parts shall remain in full force and effect. (e) These Conditions of Business shall be interpreted in accordance with English Law, under the exclusive jurisdiction of the English Courts, in favour of KT.

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VENUE, STORAGE, COLLECTION AND SHIPPING LOGISTICS

On receipt of cleared funds, lots can be collected (see map above) during the auction or immediately after its completion. Lots will be available to collect between the hours of 9.30am - 5pm.

After a period of 14 days following the auction, uncollected lots will additionally incur a storage charge of £3.50 per lot per week (or part thereof) and storage insurance at a rate of 1% of the purchase price per lot per week (or part thereof). Purchases can be collected in person from Kerry Taylor’s premises or by the buyer’s authorised agent or shipper.

Godspeed Couriers are our appointed shippers. They can supply competitive worldwide quotations for the packing and shipping of purchases. Buyers are reminded that it is their responsibility to comply with UK export regulations and with any local import requirements.

Kerry Taylor Auctions Ltd 249-253 Long Lane London SE1 4PR

Godspeed Couriers Tel: 00 44 (0)7780 808173 email: info@godspeedcouriers.co.uk

Tel: 00 44 (0)208 676 4600 Fax: 00 44 (0)203 137 0112 email: info@kerrytaylorauctions.com

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Photographs courtesy of Ann Ray

Photograph by Ann Ray. Annabelle modelling in the ‘Joan of Arc’ collection, the show McQueen dedicated to her.

www.kerrytaylorauctions.com