Kinghams Auctioneers

FANS & FINERY Thursday 21st October 2021

FANS & FINERY To be held at: 10-12 Cotswold Business Village, London Road, Moreton-in-Marsh GL56 0JQ THURSDAY 21ST OCTOBER Viewing Tuesday 19th October – 10.00am to 5.00pm Wednesday 20th October – 10.00am to 5.00pm Thursday 21st October – 10.00am until beginning of the auction Day of the Sale Auction scheduled to start at 1pm with bidding in the room and live bidding on the internet bidding platforms.

Telephone bids and commission bids are accepted and potential bidders will need to be registered with us before the sale.

SPECIALIST Mary Cooper marycooper@kinghamsauctioneers.com

Live internet bidding is available on www.the-saleroom.com, www.invaluable.com, www.easyliveauction.com, www.liveauctioneers.com and www.drouot.com together with fully illustrated catalogue.

Catalogue £10.00 (£14.00 by post)

Kinghams Auctioneers Ltd (Collection Address) 10-12 Cotswold Business Village, London Road, Moreton-in-Marsh GL56 0JQ NB. Please telephone to arrange collection.

Telephone: 01608 695695 Email: enquiries@kinghamsauctioneers.com Website: www.kinghamsauctioneers.com

MAP AND DIRECTIONS Our auction site is based in the market town of Moreton-in-Marsh on the edge of the Cotswolds.

By Car We are centrally located on the A44 in reach of motorways the M5, M4, M40 and M42

By Rail Moreton-in-Marsh’s train station is less than a mile from the auction site

By Plane The nearest International Airports are Birmingham, 45 miles and Heathrow, 70 miles

Accommodation www.cotswolds.com/accommodation

DELIVERY SERVICES FOR BUYERS We offer an in house packing service for most items and paintings up to 110cm x 80cm. Please email enquiries@kinghamsauctioneers.com for a quote or call 01608 695695 for a quotation.

For Furniture: Stephen Morris Shipping PLC, 9 Ockham Drive Greenford, London, UB6 0FD Tel: 02088 322222

USEFUL INFORMATION FOR BUYERS Please see full Terms and Conditions at the back of this catalogue.

Buying at Kinghams Auctioneers Ltd:

Condition

There are several ways you can bid at our auctions; in person, by leaving a commission bid, on the telephone and live via the internet.

Bidders must satisfy themselves as to the condition of each lot. Condition reports are available on request. (no later that 48 hours before the sale).

Bidding in Person

Buyer’s Premium

It is essential that all prospective buyers register with us prior to the auction. Proof of identification will be required in order for a bidding number to be allocated which can then be used when bidding for an item.

There is a buyer’s premium of 23% plus VAT on the first £500,000 of the hammer price of each lot. 18% plus VAT on the excess of £500,001 and up to £1,000,000 of the hammer price of each lot, and 15% plus VAT on the excess of £1,000,001 of the hammer price of each lot.

Commission Bids Kinghams will execute bids if you are unable to attend the sale. Bids can be left with our staff during or after viewing, or in advance by telephone or e-mail: enquiries@kinghamsauctioneers.com

Telephone Bids Lines must be booked by 5pm the day before the auction begins. Lines are booked on a first come first served basis.

Full name, address and telephone numbers will be required together with proof of identity. Bank and/or credit/debit card details are necessary to secure the line.

Live Internet Bidding Register online via www.the-saleroom.com, www.invaluable.com, www.easyliveauction.com, www.liveauctioneers.com and www.drouotonline.com.

Various charges apply, please check with your bidding platform.

Payment Must be made in full before items can be removed from the premises. If buyers are unknown to us, we cannot handover purchases until payment has been cleared.

Payment Methods - We accept payment by: • Cash - up to £9,000 (subject to money laundering regulations).

• Cheques - following 5 working days clearance.

• Debit/Credit Cards - American Express or Diners Club not accepted.

We accept maxiumum payments of £500 on credit card.

• Bank transfer to: HSBC Bank, 32 Bridge St., Evesham, WR11 4RU Account No.: 51655345 Account Name: Kinghams Auctioneers Ltd Sort Code: 40-20-27 IBAN: GB91MIDL40202751655345 SWIFTBIC: MIDLGB22 Please note that a fee of £15 will be added for international bank payments.

CONTENTS 18th century

1 – 14

19th century

15 – 99

20th century including advertising and novelty

100 – 115

Feathers

116 – 128

World

129 – 131

Japanese

132 – 136

Chinese

137 – 153

Antique & Vintage Costume

154 – 194

Antique Lace

195 – 220

Accessories and Needlework

221 – 333

1.

An elegant mid-18th century bone fan, the monture carved and pierced, the gorge sticks mainly in pairs, the double paper leaf in a pale blue, embroidered in horizontal bands with tiny silver sequins, the swags outlined in silver thread, some laid over black, guard approx. 10.5 inches or 26.5cm. £70 - £100

4

2 2.

An 18th century extended fan leaf mounted on wood, a French stock label on the verso, depicting the Biblical story of the Worship of the Golden Calf, from the book of Exodus, the animal being considered a symbol of virility and strength associated with the Cannaanite God El, approx. 19.25 inches or 49cm by 10 inches or 25.5cm. £200 - £300

4.

Vive La Bagatelle, an original 18th century unframed and unmounted fan leaf printed in black with riddles and logographs, a central oval under the title showing a bespeckled wise owl reading in a library, printed by Sarah Afton & Co, No. 28, Little Britain, June 1797, width approx. 20.5 inches or 52cm including the plain border.

Not in the catalogue of the Schreiber collection of Fans and fan Leaves. £150 - £250

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3 3.

The Lady’s Adviser, Physician and Moralist: or Half an Hour’s Entertainment at the Expense of Nobody: London, Publish’d by Ashton and Co No 28 Little Britain; and Enter’d at Stationer’s Hall Jan’y 7, 1797, the engraved and uncoloured leaf presents a series of “How to” questions which are contained within a fan shape supported by a winged cherub, No1 reads “How to catch the Spleen”, No2: “How to avoid it”, No3: “How to fall violently in Love” and continues up to No 6, advice is provided under each one of the six drawings, and in minute print next to the fan shape, the leaf is marked “G. Wilson invent. et del”, double paper leaf. See Schreiber, unmounted fan leaves, No.121. £300 - £600

5.

An 18th century extended fan leaf mounted on wood, showing the mythological scene of Helen, said to be the most beautiful woman on earth, leaving her husband Menelaus to live with Paris, in Troy, approx. 19.25 by 10 inches or 25.5cm by or 49cm. £200 - £300 6.

A mid to late 18th century decoupé fan, the paper leaf mounted on bone, the guards painted with flowers, the gorge sticks pierced, a central painted cartouche showing a gentleman on his knee imploring a lady for her hand, his horse and dog waiting patiently, a chaperone using a small telescope, and two side vignettes showing a man and a lady, all characters with good representation of 18th costume. Guard approx. 10.75 inches or 27cm, t/w a simple and elegant late 18th century fan with double leaf, the monture of finely pierced ivory, the leaf embroidered with small gold sequins and spangles, guard approx. 10 inches or 25.5cm (2). £100 - £150 7.

A vibrantly painted gorge section of an 18th century ivory fan, converted into a brisé by means of ribbon attached to the very top edge, the upper guard plain, the lower guard a typical guard carved in panels, featuring a figure and flowers, and tortoiseshell thumb guards, the central cartouche a painting of Venus with her chariot and her suitor Adonis with his hunting dogs, the reserves painted with exotic flowers with gold highlights, guard length approx.

7 inches or 19cm. £60 - £80

6

For details of the charges payable in addition to the final Hammer Price of each lot please refer to paragraphs 5 to 9 of the Buyer’s terms at the back of the catalogue.

8

9

8 (detail) 8.

Moses striking the Rock: An 18th century vellum fan, the leaf mounted à l’Anglaise on tortoiseshell, the Old Testament story of Moses leading the Israelites, hungry and thirsty, though the dessert until God took pity and allowed water to flow, the rock being likened to Christ, the flowing water symbolising the blood flowing from his wounds, the verso is plain, guard approx. 10.75 inches or 27.5cm. £300 - £500

9.

A French revolutionary period hand coloured fan entitled “La Coquette du Village”, with a central scene showing a lady in 18th century dress being courted by a suitor on an island, another man concealed in bushes to the side, patently eavesdropping. To each side, verses of an “Air” or song, describing the scene, the double paper leaf mounted on light wood, guard approx. 11 inches or 28cm; together with a simple fan of the same period, the dark wood monture decorated to appear as pique, the double paper leaf with simple floral decoration of flowers and leaves, guard approx. 10.75 inches or 27cm. (2) Possibly by Mathurin Régnier, a French satirist.

£150 - £180

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10

10.

A final quarter 18th century Mother of Pearl fan, the monture silvered and gilded, the upper guards pierced and underlaid with cerise foil, the double leaf most probably fine vellum, the painting of a romantic pastoral scene undertaken in bold colours, the reserves filled with stylised cranes or storks, and Sphinx figures in the Grand Tour style, the verso painted with a bird of prey with outspread wings, guard approx. 10.75 inches or 27.5cm.

12.

Damaged 18th/19th/ and 20th century fans and parts for repairs, to include two 18th century bone fans, a set of 19th c bone guards, a set of pink Mother of pearl guard, another longer, one sequinned fan, and 9 others, these mid to late 19th century, and silk tassels (a quantity). £80 - £120

Hall’s reference for the winged creature is “In classical Greece, (the sphinx) was given a woman’s head and breasts and wings, the form generally adopted in renaissance and later art”. £300 - £600 11.

A slender 18th century fan with Mother of Pearl monture, the guards extensively carved and pierced with floral designs, silvered and gilded, the gorge in similar but more simple fashion, the double paper leaf painted with a pastoral scene with several couples wearing fine costume the verso depicting a solitary lady perhaps waiting for her beau, contained in a period coffin fan box lined with blue paper, an indistinct signature in ink inside, guard length approx. 10.5 inches or 26.5cm. £80 - £120

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13

For details of the charges payable in addition to the final Hammer Price of each lot please refer to paragraphs 5 to 9 of the Buyer’s terms at the back of the catalogue.

13.

A late 18th century Conundrum fan, dated 1791, the simple monture of pale wood, the guards polished, the double paper leaf printed with musical scores and various vignettes in the form of questions on cards, containing riddles with romantic themes in both English and French, supplemented with hearts and a pink fan, the central feature a sheaf of red rose buds and leaves tied with blue ribbon, entitled “ Bouquet fantastique”, the verso with a simple depiction of cupid with arrows and a flaming torch, above an oval containing lettering “O CHRNNHTNTHLGS” and “repondre Si Vous Plait”, marked to the side border “Published by Sarah Ashton No 28 Little Britain April 25th 1791”, not in the Schreiber collection, contained in a period fan tube covered in paper in autumnal colours, guard approx. 10 inches or 24.5cm. £200 - £300

14 14.

A slender 18th century ivory fan with sea green silk leaf, the monture finely painted with a central cartouche and a vignette to each side, classical scenes, all finely carved and pierced, contained in a modern gilded rectangular frame. £200 - £400

16.

A small c 1820’s printed fan, the double paper leaf mounted on unadorned bone, possibly depicting The Continence of Scipio’, where Scipio, a Roman General, hands back, unharmed, a maiden taken as a prize of war, to her fiancé, printers reference K 416 to the left, the verso plain, guard approx. 7.25 inches or 18.5cm; a second early 19th century printed fan in bold colours, French, featuring a lady seated on a terrace, letter in hand, a suitor proffering a pink rose from behind a balustrade, to her left a plinth inscribed with the words ““La lecture Interrompue” (reading interrupted), some gold sequins scattered on the leaf, the verso plain, guard length approx. 8 inches or 20cm (2). £100 - £150 17.

Military fans: Two fans produced in France, both with simple wood montures, the first with printed silk satin leaf showing Russian troops marching off to battle, in the Russo-Japanese war 1904, their peasant women waving them off, another wearing a French Red cross nurse’s uniform, “Nos Voeux vous accompagnent”, printed to the right beneath “Trianquier. Trianon”, to the left “Henry A la Pensée, Paris”; an advertising fan for water “Source Beatrix Vals”, the recto printed with ladies draped in Allied flags, issued for the Great War. See page 66 of the Fan Museum Greenwich 2009 exhibition catalogue “Fans: War and Peace”, the first fan was a special promotion in aid of the Russians (2). £100 - £150 An unmounted and unused fan leaf on a Military theme, 18. much in the style of G. Redon but signed by his contemporary Noel Dorville, dated ’04, featuring a rather large and elderly red faced grenadier of the French National guard, around 1812, , facing a younger working man carrying a smoking gun, with a less than beautiful woman wearing a red Phrygian bonnet, hands on hips, smiling at the younger male, standing in front of the Palais Bourbon (the assemblée nationale) in Paris. Thanks to Ondine P-P of the cercle de l’Eventail for help with military details. £60 - £100

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19

15.

The Peninsular war: El 10 de Marzo de 1808, an original, 19th century unframed and unmounted printed fan leaf depicting the capture and imprisonment by rebels of the Prince of Peace, Manuel Godoy, a favourite of King Carlos IV, a vivid scene of the struggle in Aranjuez, Spain, one of the events leading to the Spanish war of independence, printed by Mefs. Behrmann & Collmann, London, Nov 1813, width 20.5 inches or 52cm including the plain border, recorded in the Schreiber catalogue of Fans and fan leaves. £200 - £300

19.

The Death of Adonis/ Madrid Esposicion Agricultura 1867: a bone fan circa 1867, the monture lightly carved and pierced in a regular fashion, the recto a hand-coloured depiction of Adonis in the arms of Aphrodite, mortally wounded, having being attacked by a wild boar whilst out hunting. His dog and a large cat to his right, Cupid with bow and arrow to his left, and a sign leaning on a tree to the left stating “Muerte de Adonis”. In the story the boar is actually Ares, one of Aphrodite’s lovers, jealous of her passion for Adonis, equally of interest on the verso, a depiction of animals and agricultural entries to the 1867 exhibition, and a scene of the building and the visitors, the leaf seemingly printed by A.L. SERRA HIJO Madrid Caballero de Gracia 15, the number 138? and some indistinct wording printed under the main title in the centre, guard approx. 10.5 inches or 26.5cm £180 - £250

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20.

Chemin de Croix: Seldom found on the market, a small pressed and decoratively pierced card brisé fan with fourteen printed scenes relating to Christ carrying his cross to the crucifixion site, having been condemned to death by the Roman governor Pontius Pilatus, taking the processional route through the Old City of Jerusalem to Mont Golgotha, framed and glazed, guard approx. 4.5 inches or 11.5cm, finished with a cotton tassel. One further example known to be held by the Musée de la Mode, Palais Galliera in Paris, a gift from the members of the Cercle de l’Eventail. £100 - £200 21.

An 1880’s bone autograph fan, the monture lightly incised with a regular design, the recto applied with white feathers, and cream gauze with floral machine embroidery, the verso providing the more unusual feature of verse and autographs provided by various people, written in Spanish, and dated 15 mayo ‘85, above which some words are in French and seemingly dedicated to “Marie”, guard approx. 11 inches or 28cm; a second bone fan, slightly earlier, the monture carved and pierced and silvered, the double paper leaf a handcoloured lithograph, the recto depicting a wealthy family on a terrace, a small dog sitting up to beg in front of its mistress watched by her parents and sisters, the verso pale pink with a central cartouche amongst bold gold flowers and foliage, a gentle scene of mother and small children enjoying a celebration, guard approx. 10.75 inches or 27.5cm (2). £80 - £120 22.

An unusual shaped 19th century cockade fan, the guards painted with flowers and varnished, the lower sections serpentine, fitted with a catch for closure and a silk and beaded tassel, the cream silk leaf painted delicately with flowers, edged in gauze, and trimmed with cream marabou feathers, the overall height when opened approx. 19 inches or 48cm, the very centre fitted with a shaped bone button. £150 - £250 23.

A 19th century Jenny Lind or Palmette fan, the bone monture lightly incised, with gilded decoration, the leaf panels scalloped, of a strong and crisp pink silk, guard length approx. 10.75 inches or 27.5cm; and another 19th century bone fan, c 1860’s, the monture shaped, pierced and gilded, the leaf lithographed and showing several scenes of young people at leisure in the countryside guard approx. 10.75 inches or 27.5cm (2). £40 - £60

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25

24.

A very late 19th century wood brisé autograph fan, painted centrally with an angel visiting a lady, stamped with greetings in German, signed with messages in pencil to both sides on all sticks, with various dates, ranging from ’96 to 1903, all seemingly in German, guard approx. 9.5 inches or 24cm. £70 - £120 25.

A mid-19th century white Mother of Pearl fan, the sticks gilded and silvered with flowers, the double paper leaf with strong gold reserves, resplendent with garlands of flowers, two small vignettes featuring naked cherubs surrounded by flowers, guardians of babies in baskets above them, the central cartouche hand coloured with a scene of a well-dressed lady and her attendants gathering flowers, the lady being supported by two of her attendants, perhaps expecting the baby alluded to at the sides? the verso with three scenes shows a young boy with a birdcage, another sitting with two older ladies, and a young woman in pink robe, guard approx. 10.5 inches or 26.5cm. £100 - £150 26.

A bone fan circa 1860’s, the monture carved, pierced and silvered with an unusual shape to the lower guard and gorge, the gorge sticks appearing to interlink, the double leaf of cream silk backed with paper, featuring a group of young ladies in 18th century dress on a terrace, one pushing a younger girl on a swing, the verso showing a lady taking a stroll with a friend or chaperone, reading a love letter, the author of the letter concealed behind a bush eavesdropping, guard approx. 10 5/8 inches or 27cm; the second fan of a similar period features a musical gathering outdoors, the bone monture carved, pierced, silvered and gilded, guard approx. 10.25 inches or26cm (2). £60 - £90 27.

A c 1870’s fan with bone monture and fabric leaf printed with a scene of St Pietro Di Roma (St Peter’s Basilica in Rome), a reproduction of the Grand Tour fans of the 18th century, the verso in cream, guard approx. 10.5 inches or 26cm; a circa 1890’s fan of black gauze painted en grisaille with a bird amidst leaves, the slender wood sticks painted gold and silvered, guard approx. 14.25 inches or 36cm (2). £60 - £80

For details of the charges payable in addition to the final Hammer Price of each lot please refer to paragraphs 5 to 9 of the Buyer’s terms at the back of the catalogue.

29

28.

Two c 1860’s white mother of pearl fans, the first with gilding and silvering to the monture, the guards with floral sprays, the gorge with horizontal bands of different designs, the double paper leaf showing a scene of leisure in the grounds of a large country house, a gentleman in 18th century dress offering a posy of flowers to a welldressed lady, her chaperone, perhaps, seated by her and another, younger girl in attendance, the verso with a simple spray of flowers with gold highlights, guard length approx. 10 5/8 inches or 27cm; and a simple white mother of pearl fan, the head shaped, with plain, cream satin leaf, guard approx. 11 inches or 28cm (2). £100 - £150 29.

A last quarter 19th century painted fan, the double silk leaf mounted on pink Mother of Pearl, the guards and gorge classically gilded, the scene showing family and friends indulging in various leisure pursuits, from archery to music, all the while seated aside a lagoon or the sea, a boat with covered canopy sailing past, a vague outline of buildings in the distance, a signature noted top left, E. Fastor, the verso painted in pastels with waterside plants and vegetation , fitted with a chain embossed gold metal loop, contained in a cream silk covered fan box with quilted lid and label inside for J. Duvelleroy, guard approx. 11 inches or 28cm £180 - £250 30.

A An elegant circa 1880’s tortoiseshell brisé fan with good mottling, the seventeen inner sticks and two guards very slightly shaped at the tips, the tortoiseshell loop fitted with a maroon silk tassel, with the addition of a plaited loop with which to hold the fan closed, guard approx. 8 inches or 20.5cm. £180 - £280

31 31.

A good very pale pink Mother of Pearl fan c 1890’s, the double leaf with upper layer of cream silk gauze, a layer behind of plain salmon silk, the recto signed “Bellini”, the scene painted with deep swags of shaded pink embroidered with minute silver sequins, three winged cherubs in the process of hanging garlands of flowers onto the drapes, the sides and upper leaf borders finished with cream Brussels bobbin lace, contained in a sumptuous dark ruby velvet covered shaped and hinged fan box, the interior padded and lined with deep red silk satin, guard approx. 12.25 inches or 31cm. £250 - £350

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35

32.

A coastal scene signed Félix Fournery dated 1902, showing boats in full sail and one about to set out, a young lady rushing down steps as if wanting not to be left behind, in, a pier to the left, and a foreground of thistles in autumnal colour, single paper leaf, simple wood monture, guard approx. 8.5 inches or 21.5cm.

F. Fournery, born in Paris in 1865, died in 1938, had a fisherman’s house in Villerville, and the Normandy coast was at the heart of his work. French painter, fashion illustrator, watercolourist and socialite. £60 - £100

36.

Four early 19th century brisé fans, to include a tortoiseshell (or possibly dyed horn) example, the gold metal guards pierced, with shaped tips and tricorn head, a classical urn of flowers to the upper section, enclosing 22 inner sticks with shaped tips painted in gold in pairs, guard length approx. 7.25 inches or 18.5cm; a dyed horn brisé fan, pierced, all sticks with pointed tips, the twenty-one inner sticks painted alternatively with flowers, the guards plain, the flower section being bordered in turquoise, guard approx. 5 1/8 inches or 15.5cm; a very pale horn brisé fan, all sticks with pointed tips, the twenty-one inner sticks and two guards pierced in bands, a wide band in flowing classical design, and clouté in silver, barrel head, guard length approx.

6.25 inches or 16cm; a pale but slightly darker pierced horn brisé fan, the twenty-two inners ticks and two guards pierced in very regular bands, guard approx. 6.25 inches or 16cm (4). £120 - £180

33.

A last quarter 19th century white Mother of Pearl fan, gilded and silvered with a decorative lattice, the double paper leaf painted with a gentle scene of the mythological couple Flora and Zephyr, accompanied by winged cherubs, gathering flowers in a grand park, swans in the lake to their side. The verso is painted simply with gold leaves and tendrils, contained in a cream card fan box with interior label for Duvelleroy, guard approx. 10.5 inches or 26.5cm. £180 - £250 34.

Four early 19th century horn brisé fans, all with barrel heads, plus a later painted wood brisé fan, to include an example with clouté guards and sticks, the latter carved into roundels of diminishing size, each section painted with a blue flower, the twenty-one inner sticks and two guards with pointed tips, guard length approx. 6 inches or 15cm; a pale horn brisé fan with regular piercing in bands, the twenty-one inner sticks and two guards with pointed tips, guard approx. 6.25 inches or 16cm; a third pale horn brisé, lightly painted in gold with a central urn of flowers supplemented by feather decoration, the twenty-one inner sticks and two guards with pointed tips, guard approx. 6.25 inches or 16cm; the fourth pale horn brisé with decorative piercing in bands of different designs and width, the 14 inner sticks and two guards with pointed tips, guard approx. 6.25 inches or 16cm; and a wood brisé fan, 19th or early 20th century, painted with a young family in a clearing, the verso with a countryside scene, guard approx. 6 7/8 inches or 17cm (5). £120 - £180 35.

An early 19th century European ivory brisé fan, very finely carved with gothic tips to all sticks, the head a trefoil inset with a turquoise stone, the carving in horizonal bands, contained in the lower section of a period fan tube, guard approx. 7 inches or 18cm. £80 - £120

12

37.

A simple tortoiseshell brisé fan, the guards and sticks wedge-shaped, fitted with a tortoiseshell loop, guard approx. 8 inches or 20.5cm. £80 - £120

38 (detail) 38.

Billotey: A fine 19th century, 1885 – 1900, fan, delicately painted on silk satin, mounted on sturdy tortoiseshell, the double leaf featuring three small birds perched on a slender bough, surrounded by blossoms in soft pastel colours, signed Billotey to the top left, the verso plain cream silk satin, guard approx. 12.5 inches or 32cm.

Provenance: from the collection of the late Michel Maignan, former owner of Duvelleroy, Paris. £600 - £800

For details of the charges payable in addition to the final Hammer Price of each lot please refer to paragraphs 5 to 9 of the Buyer’s terms at the back of the catalogue.

38

39.

An unusual early 19th century shaped horn brisé with barrel rivet, ribboned close to the centre, giving a large almost harpshape upper section with curled tip to each stick, and peep holes beneath, the sticks all carved and pierced, two guards and 17 sticks, barrel rivet, guard approx. 5.75 inches or 14.5cm. £150 - £250

40.

A very decorative fan c 1900 – 1910, the shiny pale pink Mother of Pearl gilded, the cream gauze leaf mounted à l’Anglaise, the reserves delicately painted with tiny blue and white flowers, enclosing a central cartouche and two side vignettes, each bordered with iridescent and tiny gold sequins, two ladies reading letters in the centre, rural scenes to the sides, a matching sequin border to the upper leaf, guard approx. 8.25 inches or 21cm. £100 - £150

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13

41

44

14

For details of the charges payable in addition to the final Hammer Price of each lot please refer to paragraphs 5 to 9 of the Buyer’s terms at the back of the catalogue.

41.

A fine circa 1820’s pale horn brisé fan, carved and pierced, the twenty inner sticks and two guards with pointed tips, clouté in gold, barrel rivet with gold stone, the fan notable for the complex shaping of the inner sticks, in pairs, with four bands of circles, some pierced, others painted with pale blue ground offsetting winged cherubs with floral garlands, birds in flight, and trophies of love recto/verso, contained in a non-contemporary cream silk covered fan box lined in cream silk, gold label fixed to the underside for “H N V Santen, Kisl.kön.Hoflieferant, Berlin, guard approx. 6.25 inches or 16cm. £200 - £400

45.

An early 19th century Peau d’ane or cream card Italianate souvenir fan, the guards of light wood, both clouté in silver, one with “souvenir” the other with a flower, with barrel rivet, the tips gently pointed and decorated in gold, the recto painted with a large stone building or ruin with mountain backdrop, small figures in the foreground in similar style to many Grand Tour fans, the verso plain, guard approx. 6 inches or 15.5cm: an early 19th century horn brisé with serrated and gently pointed tips, the body of the fan pierced in bands of regular designs, the upper two bands being flowerhead design, barrel rivet, guard length approx. 6 1/8 inches or 15.5cm (2). £100 - £150

42.

A circa 1820’s horn 4-way brisé fan, barrel rivet, the sticks pointed, the guards set with purple stones, complementing the rivet, the four painted scenes showing a young lady outside a cottage picking pink roses, the recto with a young man in red jacket fishing near to a viaduct, the third scene showing a maiden in pink gown seated in contemplation, and finally an ornate display of blowsy roses and forget-me-nots, guard length approx. 6.25 inches or 16cm. £300 - £500

46.

An early 19th century carved and pierced ivory brisé fan with 22 slender sticks, and two guards, the tips pointed, a central cartouche and two side vignettes carved with figures and buildings, diamanté to the rivet, guard approx. 6 5/8 inches or 17cm; together with a late 18th century carved and pierced ivory monture, currently fitted with a replacement leaf of later black lace, guard length approx.

9.5 inches or 24cm (2). £60 - £100

43.

A sturdy circa 1880’s tortoiseshell brisé fan, quite dark with good mottling, the sixteen inner sticks and two guards wedge shaped, with tortoiseshell loop guard approx. 9.25 inches or 23.5cm. £180 - £280

An early 19th century carved horn brisé fan, barrel rivet, 47. the twenty one inner sticks and two guards with pointed tips, all carved and pierced in regular, bands, guard length approx. 6 inches or 15cm; and another similar, but in pale horn, the 18 sticks and two guards painted with a band of pastel flowers to complement the carved and pierced sticks, guard length approx. 6 inches or 15cm (2). £50 - £80

44.

A fine circa 1820’s pale horn brisé fan, carved and pierced, the twenty inner sticks and two guards with pointed tips, barrel rivet, the fan notable for the complex shaping of the inner sticks, in pairs, with an upper band of circles painted in bright hues of orange and blue and featuring fritillaria, the next three bands shield-shaped the first painted with pink rose garlands and white violas with lilac centres, the remaining two bands without colour, the verso painted in similar fashion with different flowers, contained in an original green card fan tube labelled for “MULLOT l’ainé éventailliste, Rue St- Denis No 130, guard approx. 6.25 inches or 16cm. £150 - £250

48.

A very large tortoiseshell brisé fan, the tips of the 19 inner sticks and two guards rounded, fitted with a tassel and holder, contained in a fitted fan box covered in royal blue silk and lined in eu de nil silk, unlabelled, guard approx. 11.25 inches or 28.5cm. £200 - £400

48

15

49.

The Charles and Diana Marriage fan, limited edition number 18 of the 20 made to celebrate the marriage of HRH the Prince of Wales and Lady Diana Spencer on July 29th 1981, marketed by the Fan Circle International, three white ostrich feathers, the heraldic badge of the heir apparent, mounted on a silver hallmarked (London TD) handle, the number 18 on the knop, by the jeweller and goldsmith Thomas Dobbie and his wife Margaret, , bearing the gilt crest and motto of the Prince of Wales on one side and the date of the wedding and the logo of the Fan Circle International on the other, with fitted box and all documentation from the ordering of the item to delivery, including the invoice, the purchase price being £250.00, and a photocopy, source unknown, of a photograph of Princess Diana carrying her own slightly different version of the fan (which had been commissioned for her from the Dobbies by Leonard G Kingdom, Master of the Worshipful Company of Fan Makers (WCFM) in 1980 as his own special gift on her marriage) , whilst attending a dinner given in London by the WCFM on 12/12/1985, the Master at that time, John Shelton, in attendance. £700 - £1000

16

For details of the charges payable in addition to the final Hammer Price of each lot please refer to paragraphs 5 to 9 of the Buyer’s terms at the back of the catalogue.

50 50.

A third quarter 19th century black Chantilly lace fan, the leaf of floral design, mounted on dusky Tahiti mother of pearl, including the ribs, guard length approx. 11.5 inches or 29cm, contained in a card fan box covered in black silk, lined in cream silk, gold writing inside the lid with attribution for “Duvelleroy Paris, and London 167 Regent Street”. £200 - £300

55.

A large Mixed Brussels lace fan, the monture of white mother of pearl, c 1890’s, with shaped head, the central Point de Gaze needle lace flower with raised petals, the reserves in guipure fashion with brides joining the large flower heads, the lace with a hint of Ghent Valenciennes with the swags containing leaves, contained in a cream silk-covered fan box labelled for Boval-Debeck, Bruxelles, guard approx. 14 inches or 36cm. £120 - £180

51.

A c 1870’s black lace fan mounted on Mother of Pearl dyed a vibrant purple, the floral lace leaf with black satin underlayer, backed with black cotton, fitted with a long black silk tassel, contained in a sturdy cardboard fan box marked on the lid exterior for the “Army and Navy Co-operative Society, 105 Victoria Street, Westminster, London SW, previously sold as lot 194 in an auction dated 22 January 1982, guard approx. 10.75 inches or 27.5cm. £200 - £300 52.

A large Brussels Mixed lace fan c 1890’s, the leaf mounted on white Mother of Pearl, with bone ribs, a central cartouche of Brussels needle lace with roses worked on hand-made net, the reserves in floral bobbin lace, guard length approx. 13.5 inches or 34.5cm. £150 - £250 53.

A bone fan, late 19th century/early 20th century, the monture simply incised, the cream fabric leaf quite unusual, being possibly silk, and embroidered in silk threads in a design of small flowers supplemented by swags worked in gold metal threads, couched, one feature being entwined initials “SW”, the background with an upper border of gold sequins and further sequins scattered throughout, guard approx. 12.5 inches or 32cm. £50 - £70 54.

Four lace fans, dating from the 1880’s to the 1920’s, to include a bone fan with cream silk leaf, the monture carved and pierced and fitted with a cream silk tassel, the recto applied with black machine lace and tiny silver sequins, guard approx.10.75 inches or 27.5cm; next, a Bruges bobbin lace fan, the design of flowers and leaves, mounted on shiny pink mother of pearl sticks, and bone ribs, guard approx.9.5 inches or 24cm; a bone fan, the leaf of brussels needle lace with traditional flowers, detail provided by the use of whole and half stitch, fitted with an elaborate silk tassel with multiple bobbles, guard approx. 8 inches or 20.5cm, and finally a bone fan, the monture with simple piercing and gilding, the net leaf applied with Brussels bobbin and one needle lace motifs, with raised veins to some, the upper edge scalloped, guard approx. 7.5 inches or 19cm (4). £120 - £150

56 A first quarter 19th century Carrickmacross needle lace 56. fan, the crisp leaf mounted on pink Mother of Pearl, the ribs the same, the design of stylised flower baskets and clovers, with fine fillings mainly to the upper borders, contained in a card fan box with lilac and gold paper exterior, retailed by Dickens and Jones, Fan Specialists, Regent Street London, guard length approx. 9 5/8 inches or 24.5cm. £150 - £250 57.

A third quarter 19th century black Chantilly lace fan, the lace with a backing of cream silk, the monture of dusky Tahiti mother of pearl, guard length approx. 11 inches or 29cm. £150 - £250 58.

A late 19th century Brussels Point de Gaze needle lace fan, the pink Mother of Pearl carved, pierced, and lightly incised with floral designs, the ribs of mother of pearl, the lace notable for the fineness and tight workmanship with many different fillings and details to the roses themselves, overall height approx. 12 inches or 30.5cm as the lace protrudes above the guards £200 - £400

17

59

59.

An exquisite, large, Brussels Point de Gaze needle lace fan mounted on blonde tortoiseshell or resin sticks and ribs, a central gauze panel painted in pastels with a lady wearing ethereal flowing robes, holding an open birdcage, Cupid and another winged cherub at play, signed L. Bolliaz??, the lace of the finest quality with complicated design, extravagant scrolling and fillings, guard length approx. 14 inches or 35.5cm, contained in an unlabelled cream silk covered fan box. £500 - £800 60.

Circa 1900 to 1915, an unusual lace fan in fontange form, the monture of carved, pierced and lightly gilded pale horn, a tiny crown in an oval frame on the upper guard, the leaf in mainly tape lace, the foliate design emphasised with different and quite complex fillings, on a hand-made net ground, contained in a Duvelleroy fan tube, gold oval stamp for the shop in Passage Panoramas, 35, Boul’d des Capucines (Paris) under the lid, the tube covered in floral woven pink and cream silk, overall height approx. 10.25 inches or 26cm. £180 - £280 61.

A large late 19th century Brussels bobbin lace fan, the monture of Mother of Pearl, possibly Burgau, the large central silk crepe (?) panel finely painted with two birds perching on blossom, and several blue dragonflies, signed to the left “Eudes”, contained in a red silk-covered fan box, unlabelled, guard length approx. 13.75 inches or 35cm; and a smaller early 20th century Mixed Brussels lace fan, the monture of pink Mother of Pearl, the leaf designed with three focal points into which are inserted a flower of Point de Gaze needle lace with one raised petal layer, guard length approx. 9.75 inches or 23.5cm (2). £90 - £120

18

62.

A c 1870/80’s wood fan, the monture painted gold, carved and pierced, the black Chantilly lace leaf designed with three large vignettes enclosing flowers, smaller ovals to the sides, laid against cream silk and backed with cream silk, guard approx. 9.75 inches or 24cm; a mid to late 19th century telescopic fan, the monture of tan wood, gilded, the upper guards and gorge shaped and pierced, with cream silk leaf, applied with Brussels bobbin lace in a floral design, the verso plain height when extended approx. 9.75 inches or 25cm; and a third wood fan, the monture carved and pierced din bands, gilded, the leaf of cream silk satin with side and top borders of Brussels Bobbin appliqué supplemented by a floral lace spray to the left side, backed in cream silk, guard approx. 9.5 inches or 24 cm with lace protruding above (3). £90 - £120 63.

Three large wood fans from the 1890’s, the first with simple gilding to the monture, the taupe silk leaf painted in autumnal colours with four birds perched in a tree, watching colourful butterflies, the verso a plain glazed cotton, guard approx. 13.75 inches or 35cm; another similar, this time with plain buttermilk silk leaf ready for the artist, the gorge and guards finely decorated in gold, guard approx.13.3/8 inches or 34cm; a third fan mounted with teal paper, painted with a Spanish lady visiting an office, a man signing papers, the name “Antonio???” on a notice above his head, the verso plain green, guard approx. £60 - £100

For details of the charges payable in addition to the final Hammer Price of each lot please refer to paragraphs 5 to 9 of the Buyer’s terms at the back of the catalogue.

64.

A large late 19th century Brussels lace fan, the plain monture of resin or “blonde tortoiseshell”, the cream gauze leaf mounted à l’ Anglaise on bone ribs, painted with a flower girl holding a stem aloft as she looks towards winged cherubs who approach bearing floral gifts, the scene bordered with Brussels bobbin lace but with the addition of very fine and tight lace work creating trees and a stile, the gauze cut away to give lightness to the branches and leaves, gold metal initials fitted to the upper guard, contained in a cream card fan box with interior label for J Duvelleroy, guard approx. 13.25 inches or 33.5cm. £100 - £200

70.

A horn fan c 1900, the monture lightly incised and gilded, with the addition of tiny silver and gold metal highlights, the dark cream silk leaf embroidered with sequins and spangles in shades of gold, contained in a bespoke, shaped fan frame, glazed, and lined in red velvet, the front border incised with a decorative lattice, floral and leaf design guard length approx. 7.5 inches or 19cm. £50 - £70

65.

Two machine lace fans, the first a large wood fan with carved and shaped guards, light gilding to the gorge, the cream gauze leaf edged in floral machine lace and applied with leaves and flowers in cream silk, tambour stitching to the edges and the trailing tendrils, guard approx. 13.75 inches or 35cm; a small celluloid fan, the leaf of cream silk, c 1910, decorated with a white machine lace to the upper border and across the centre to enclose painted birds and flowers, guard approx. 9.5 inches or 24cm (2). £30 - £50 71 66.

A second half 19th century Mother of Pearl fan, the monture pierced, gilded and silvered in bands, the double paper leaf printed and coloured, the recto showing an outdoor gathering with 18th century gentry meeting a flower seller and her companions, one with a sheep, the verso with a similar group of maidens, silk tassel knotted with metal threads, guard approx. 10.5 inches or 26.5cm; and a second fan of a similar period, the pierced monture of bone, gilded in different shades of gold, the leaf with three vignettes showing scenes of couples courting, the reserves complementing the gorge with strong gold designs, the verso less strongly so, and featuring a lady at her toilet, guard approx. 10.5inches or 26.5cm (2). £80 - £120 67.

Three large fans c 1890 – 1900, the first with red glazed cotton leaf mounted on wood stained black, printed with a gentle depiction of a flower seller tempting a passing gentleman to buy a posy for his lady, signed A. Lauronce*, another with plain black monture and silk satin leaf painted with blousy roses, and a third with embossed and pierced black wood monture mounted with a plain black silk satin leaf (3) See the extensive research by FCI member Anne Moulinier-Krebbs on Lauronce. £60 - £90 68.

Three large pictorial fans from the 1890’s, the first printed on black silk satin, with a scene of two young couples by the water’s edge, fishing, mounted on carved and gilded black wood, the verso plain black glazed cotton: a scene of the Barber of Seville, printed on a double paper leaf, mounted on wood sticks painted black, decorated in gold and colour, with the name “Malaga”; a colourful fan simple plain wood monture and with double paper leaf showing a shepherdess and child with their flock, and a rather amorous couple to the left, (3). £40 - £60 69.

Two fans, the first with tortoiseshell monture, last quarter of the 19th century, the leaf of black bobbin lace designed with vines and cascading fruits and flowers, mounted over pale turquoise silk satin, guard approx. 11.25 inches or 28.5cm, the second fan slightly later with wood monture decorated with gold, the double black gauze leaf embroidered with gold sequins and spangles of varying size, guard approx. 8.25 inches or 31cm (2). £40 - £70

71.

A large c 1890’s black gauze fan embroidered with shiny silver sequins in vertical lines of differing lengths, larger silver roundels being set into the wooden gorge and guards giving rise to flashes of shine as the fan catches the light. Guard length approx. 13.5 inches or 34.5cm. £70 - £100 72.

Cherubs in flight and birds: a black gauze leaf further decorated with floral black machine lace, the monture of incised black wood the head forming a shell when open, fitted with a black cord and tassel with loop for securing the fan when closed; t/w a medium sized black feather fan, the monture of black wood lightly decorated in silver in a floral design; a white stiffened paper fan for a young girl, decorated with silver sequins, the painted wood monture silvered, à la sultane, bearing a small red and gold label for “Bail Cotillon, 210 Rue de Rivoli” ( Paris); and an 18th century bone fan with elaborately carved and shaped monture, the double paper leaf painted simply with a pastoral setting, two ladies accompanied by one man, a grand building with tall towers in the distance, guard approx.

9.5 inches or 24cm (4). £60 - £100 73.

An early 20th century pink mother of pearl fan, the black gauze leaf, mounted à l’Anglaise, with a top border of black machine lace, is painted with white blossom attracting a selection of dragonflies and butterflies the whole with scattered silver sequins, guard approx.

9 5/8 inches or 24.5cm. £30 - £50 74.

Circa 1890’s, a large decorative wood fan, the gorge plain, the guards carved with veined leaves and gilded flowers, the yellow gauze leaf painted with drooping ferns, tiny blue flowers, and a pair of yellow-breasted birds on the bough. Mounted à l’Anglaise, the sticks are also set à la demi-Sultane, carved to match the guards, and the wood further protrudes above the top edge of the leaf, fitted with a brown silk tassel, guard approx. 13.75 inches or 35cm. £60 - £80 75.

Three fans, a late 19th century black gauze fan, leaf unusually painted with a group of colourful butterflies to one side and birds in flight to the other, plain and simple wood monture painted black, 37.5cm long; a black silk satin fan, on pierced black wood sticks, leaf embroidered with a spray of pink roses and red fuchsias, a butterfly approaching from the right, verso plain black, 35cm long; a black silk satin fan, painted with pink roses and tiny forget-me-not, on plain black wood sticks, 31.5cm long (3). £30 - £50

19

76.

Three 19th and 20th century feather fans, a tortoiseshell fan topped with the fluffy cream and slightly brown tinged underbody feathers of the ostrich, the loop fitted with a black silk cord and tassel, with the addition of a ring with which to secure the fan when closed, pierced inner sticks, 34cm long; a large tortoiseshell fan, the ostrich feathers those of the female bird, the upper guard fitted with an extra feather often used in a headpiece, 40cm long; a Court fan, circa 1900, with single, shaded, rose pink through to cream feather, and plain pink handle, 72cm long (3). £70 - £100 77.

Four fans, an early 20th century red gauze fan of fontange form, mounted on simple wood sticks painted in gold, the leaf designed with blowsy poppies, the stamens attracting colourful butterflies, 36cm long; a black wood fan, the guards with simple carving and the gorge sticks pierced, mounted with a black gauze leaf painted with pale blue flowers and a tinge of yellow, embroidered to centre and to the top border with small gold sequins, 35cm long; a large cream gauze fan, the monture of wood painted white, the leaf embroidered throughout with tiny silver sequins to complement the silver clouté sticks, 35cm long; an early 20th century black wood fan, lightly carved to upper guard and gorge, machine lace leaf with a design of flowers and foliage, 35cm long (4). £50 - £80 78.

Three French fans, the first marked on the left for the fan retailer E. Creusy, Paris, the double silk leaf mounted on light pink Mother of Pearl, guards and gorge gilded , a central cartouche showing a maiden listening to bagpipes played by her beau, her birdcage in the tree above, four smaller vignettes featuring musical instruments and scores, all bordered with tiny gold sequins, swags of coloured spangles filling the reserves, the verso plain, guard approx.

11 inches or 28cm; a second French fan, likely c 1770’s to 1780’s,this time with double paper leaf, etched, the central scene one of porters loading luggage onto a sailing ship, entitled “Le Départ des Officiers”, a lady in fine 18th century dress and a young man having come down to the coast to see an older man board ship, plain bone monture save for crude floral painting to the upper guards, guard approx. 10.5 inches or 26.5cm; and a slender wood fan, c1800, the wood painted in bands with muted colour and classical design, the double paper leaf en grisaille with slight colour for the face and hair of a maiden seated by an altar adding a potion to flames, probably a mourning fan, the verso virtually plain, guard length approx. 9 7/8 inches or 25cm (3). £100 - £200 79.

Three large last quarter 19th century fans, the first dated 18 JAN 1883 engraved underneath the initialled metal closing clasp fixed at the top of the guards, the rear guard also bearing a metal plate of entwined initials, the wood guards stained black, the gorge sticks pierced, the chestnut silk satin leaf embroidered in silks to the recto with flowering branches, the verso plain ruby silk, guard length approx. 13.75 inches or 35cm; a circa 1890’s fan of black wood, painted, mounted with a cotton leaf printed with stylised flowers and leaves, the verso of paper with a similar print, guard length approx.

12.75 inches or 32.5cm; and a third fan slightly smaller, shaped wood sticks with a band of gilded leaves and pastel flowers, the cotton leaf printed with paisley designs of the 1870’s, further embroidered in gold thread, the verso a plain black glazed cotton, guard approx. 11 inches or 28cm (3).

See Éventails Europeéns by Maryse Volet page 107 and her research £80 - £120 on patents for this clasp, in this case E. Kees 1878.

20

80.

Two 19th century fans showing hunting scenes, the first mid19th century, with lightly silvered pierced bone monture, the printed and hand coloured leaf with a central cartouche depicting mounted huntsmen and their dogs in a forest, the Master blowing his horn, the two side vignettes showing rural family scenes, men taking their leave before boarding boats, the verso with a stylised picture of a fruit bowl and flowers in gold against cream, guard length approx. 10.5 inches or 26.5cm; a later fan with double paper leaf mounted on Mother of Pearl, painted with perhaps an 18th century hunting scene, a pack of dogs in the distance, all riders wearing red jackets save for a lady seated side-saddle in long blue gown, signed Philip Trench, 1879, the verso plain, guard approx. 11.5 inches or 29cm (2). £50 - £70 81.

Three fans, the first a c 1870/80’s white Mother of Pearl example, the guards and gorge decoratively pierced and the central gorge backed with thin pearl in green and pink, the leaf of Brussels Appliqué lace on net, in a floral design, backed with cream gauze, the upper guard etched with the name “Jan Wander??yt”, guard approx. 10.5 inches or 26.5cm; a first quarter 20th century Mixed Brussels lace fan with minute fillings, the lace border enclosing three painted gauze panels showing two ladies and a gentleman in 18th c dress, the leaf mounted on carved and pierced pale pink Mother of Pearl with gilding, guard approx. 8 5/8 inches or 22cm; and an abalone shell early 20th century fan, the cream silk leaf painted with very delicate Spring flowers and embroidered with tiny starry spangles, guard approx. 9 inches or 23cm (3). £100 - £150 82.

Two Large Late 19th century Fans, the first, with pink Mother of Pearl monture, mounted with a cream gauze leaf painted with birds and blossom, signed, Eudes, the gauze Leaf surrounded by Brussels bobbin lace, contained in a pale blue card fan box, unlabelled, guard approx. 13.75 inches or 35cm; and a second fan, monture of very lightly pierced bone, the cream gauze leaf bordered with floral machine lace, delicately painted with blue birds in flight, guard length approx. 13.75 inches or 35cm (2). £70 - £90 83.

An early 20th century bone fan, lightly pierced and gilded, the monture with silk leaf painted in pastels, an 18th century gentleman greeting a lady, her chaperone not far away, the reserves with floral sprays, contained in a cream silk covered fan box stamped inside for Duvelleroy, Regent street, London, guard approx. 9.25 inches or 24cm; a white Mother of Pearl fan c 1870/80’s, the monture heavily gilded and pierced in bands to form flower sprays and heads, the double paper leaf painted with romantic scene of a bride and her attendants on a terrace, a young piper playing, a gentleman and his black dog to the side, the verso plain save for some simple flowers, cream silk tassel hanging from shaped and embossed loop, guard length approx. 10.25 inches or 26cm; £60 - £100 84.

A circa 1880’s Mother of Pearl fan with double black silk leaf painted with a Spanish scene of a couple out for a stroll, the lady wearing a white mantilla, stopping to speak to a priest who has paused to take refreshment, the verso plain, fitted with a cream silk and metal thread tassel, contained in a carved wooden fan box lined in blue silk and bearing the retailer’s name of H. Bach, Madrid, guard approx.

11 inches or 28cm; a mid-19th century wood fan, the gorge clouté in silver, the guards set with shaped cut steel beads, the double paper leaf printed and hand coloured with bullfighting scenes recto/verso, the reserves of particular interest with detailed depictions of the crowd in their finery, their arrival in carriages and on horseback, many ladies carrying fans, fitted with a pink silk tassel, guard approx. 10.5 inches or 26.5cm; and a 20th century floral tourist fan with the retailer’s label for Barcelona (3). £40 - £70

For details of the charges payable in addition to the final Hammer Price of each lot please refer to paragraphs 5 to 9 of the Buyer’s terms at the back of the catalogue.

85.

Three decorative fans from 1900 to the 1920’s, including an emerald green silk fan with inset cream net panel, the whole embroidered with gold spangles, the horn monture lightly clouté in silver, green stone to the rivet, contained in a cream silk covered fan box, guard approx. 8.25 inches or 21cm; a pink Mother of Pearl fan, lightly pierced, clouté, the cream silk leaf with net underlay which is evident at the top, and embroidered with silver sequins and spangles, contained in a cream fan box with the annotation “Billy and Lorna June 5 1902… ..Mary” on the lid exterior, guard approx. 8.5 inches or 21.5cm; another pink Mother of Pearl fan, the monture closely clouté, the cream silk leaf embroidered with tiny gold sequins and larger spangles, the verso plain, barrel head, contained in a cream silk covered Duvelleroy box, guard approx. 9.5 inches or 24cm. £60 - £100 86.

A c 1830’s bone and Mother of Pearl fan, the upper guards in gold metal, with cut steel inlay, the gorge gilded and silvered in classical design, the double leaf printed and hand coloured with a scene of a lady seated on an island listening to music, an Italianate background with cypress trees and large estate buildings with tower and adjacent chapel, the reserves with red roses and gilding, the verso painted simply in gold on cream, guard approx. 7.25 inches or 18.5cm; a slightly later 19th century fan, the monture Mother of pearl, silvered, the printed double leaf showing a young couple and two other ladies in the countryside with birdcages and tiny birds, the verso with simple gold scrolling on cream, guard approx. 8.5 inches or 21.5cm: and a wood fan, painted black and lightly decorated in gold, with bone thumb guards, the black gauze leaf applied with painted paper to form stone buildings, panels of green silk below forming fields, a solitary lady in applied silk Empire gown, her face and shoulders in painted paper, her form and the remainder of the reserves embroidered with tiny gold sequins in classical fashion. (3). £90 - £120

88.

Four decorative fans from the second half of the 19th century, the first of skilfully carved bone with detail to guards and gorge, the double paper leaf painted to the recto with the fruits of a cherry tree attracting a large blue butterfly and a wasp, the verso plain, guard approx. 10 inches or 25cm; a second bone fan with simple piercing, the double leaf of cream silk, delicately painted with a border of foliage and tiny silk appliqué flowers, sequins to their centres, silver sequins embroidered as a lattice in the leaf centre, the verso plain, guard approx. 10.25 inches or 26.5cm; a third fan with bold gold painted pierced wood sticks, mounted à l’Anglaise with a black gauze leaf embroidered with gold sequins and spangles of different shapes, some embossed, guard approx. 10 5/8 inches or 27cm; and a Jenny Lind or Palmette fan, the monture of bone, gilded in bands and gently pierced, the watered silk leaf panels in rose pink embroidered with silver spangles to the recto only, guard length approx. 10 5/8 or 27cm (4). £120 - £180 89.

A Jenny Lind or Palmette fan, the wood monture painted in red, with light gilding, the upper guard adorned with a mirror having embossed gold metal frame, the leaf panels printed and coloured with a gentle outdoor gathering, one reserve with a fountain, the other with a beehive, gold embossing to the remainder, the verso plain, guard approx. 10.5 inches or 26.5cm; a third quarter 19th century black Chantilly lace fan, the design floral, the leaf laid onto cream silk satin, the verso plain, the monture of pink Mother of Pearl, contained in a Duvelleroy fan box covered in black silk and lined in cream silk, guard approx. 11.25 inches or 28.5cm; and an early 20th century bone fan, the monture pierced, the cream silk leaf mounted with the addition of a narrow machine lace border plus an upper band of deeper machine lace, guard length approx. 9.25 inches or 24cm (3). £80 - £120 90.

Two 1890’s summer fans, the first with an embroidered net leaf, in mustard, cream and pale pink silks, possibly Limerick lace, mounted on lightly carved and pierced bone; the second fan, similar, the leaf of cream gauze painted with bees approaching white blossoms for pollen, the side and top borders being a floral pattern cream machine lace, metal loop fitted with a silk tassel. £60 - £80 91.

Two early 20th century fans of ballon form, the first with a cream silk leaf mounted à l’Anglaise and painted with a couple in 18th century dress performing a formal dance, within a shaped green border, the reserves painted with swags of blue and white flowers, the leaf scattered with small sequins, the verso plain, the monture of cream celluloid, carved pierced and gilded, overall height approx. 9.5 inches or 24cm; and a 1920’s paper fan, the leaf mounted on wood sticks painted white, the leaf printed in pastels with stylized flowers and geometric lines, printed by J.Ganné, Paris, overall height approx. 9.5 inches or 24cm (2). £40 - £60

87 87.

Two mid-19th century bone fans, both lithographed, the first featuring a musical gathering in the hills, with either side a vignette of a man in regional costume, possibly Spanish, the reserves with classical designs in gold, the verso in similar but lighter fashion; the second fan, in similar style but with more detailed upper guards, the leaf with a central cartouche showing a gathering of important people in medieval dress, additional figures enclosed within arches to the reserves, the decoration with a flavour of Moorish culture. £80 - £120

92.

A black mourning fan, 1890’s with ebony monture applied with silver metal to the tips of the guards, shaped head, entwined initials to the upper guard, fitted with shaped loop and silver metal chain and loop to secure the fan when closed, the black silk leaf completely unadorned, guard length approx. 13.75 inches or 35cm; and a late 19th century Spanish fan, the wood monture dyed red, the double paper leaf with a detailed study of a bullfight, with more attention paid to the costumes of the spectators to the right and the skylight beyond the crowds with ancient buildings, possibly set in Seville, the verso is plain, guard approx. 13 inches or 33cm (2). £70 - £100

21

93.

A very unusual 19th tortoiseshell fan c 1870’s with purple silk leaf, painted with two Japanese elders, wearing kimonos and obis, one holding a traditional lantern (traditionally used to guide the spirits down from the skies), studying the skies by means of a brass telescope on tripod, and thus noting a dragon and a shooting star, and afterwards, wending away home, a small procession of figures, someone being carried in a sedan chair, the verso plain, the monture carved to resemble a tree branch, guard approx. 11.75 inches or 30cm. £200 - £400

22

For details of the charges payable in addition to the final Hammer Price of each lot please refer to paragraphs 5 to 9 of the Buyer’s terms at the back of the catalogue.

99.

Four glazed fan cases, in different sizes, three of rectangular form, one of fan shape, medium size, with decorative detail to the upper edge, all previously used (4). £70 - £100

94 94.

A small Art Nouveau fan of fontange form, the monture of white mother of pearl, carved, pierced, with some gilding, the leaf mounted à l’Anglaise, a neutral gauze overlaid with cream silk the design mirroring the gorge, the reserves embroidered with iridescent sequins and the vignettes bordered with gold, a central silk cartouche features a young lady in pink gown admiring a single peacock tail feather, presented by a suitor, the vignettes to each side embroidered with minute paillettes in gold to match the gorge painting, overall height approx. 8.75 inches or 22.5cm. £250 - £350 95.

A small paper fan, the leaf in gold, blue and pastels, a central cartouche showing a naked Venus within the clouds, carrying a flaming torch, Cupid with cherubs at her side, two side vignettes feature more cherubs, frolicking, tiny wings visible, the leaf reserves painted with pastel pink roses and pale green leaves, the monture of pale pink mother of pearl, guard length approx. 7 inches or 18cm, in a rectangular glazed frame. From the collection of the late Judith Kennedy and not included in the sale of her main collection in 2019.

Previously purchased in an antiques fair at the Cumberland Hotel in 1978, from Donahue of Portobello Road, (both London, England), for £84 already framed. £70 - £100

100 100. Two early 20th century advertising fans, the first in ballon form, mounted on simple wood sticks, stained raspberry, the double paper leaf featuring a stylized lady with voluminous gown and extravagant hairstyle, both gold, blowing red petals from a flower, which are taken by the wind and into the hands of two half-naked nymphs, within a surreal setting, the verso, with stylized 20’s red flowers, Advertises “Sovranni” (?), printed by S?efhers London and Paris (?), overall height approx. 29 inches or 23cm; and a fan advertising Moet et Chandon, the silver recto with bold red flowers signed L.Regent, overall height approx. 10.25 inches or 26cm (2). £50 - £80

96.

Glazed fan shaped frames, to include one for an unmounted fan leaf, black wood surround; a medium sized fan frame with green velvet on board, unglazed, the brown wood with a simple decorative line; and a third, slightly smaller, in tan wood, lilac velvet to the interior (3). £100 - £200 97.

Seven serviceable, empty, 19th century fan boxes, to include one with domes and quilted lid in cream silk, a cream box lined in cream silk, a green card box with decorative label, a box covered in pink and gold paper, the label inside for Fred K Penberthy London, a cream box bearing a Nathalie of Sloane St label, a beige box, an a large and sturdy Duvelleroy box in tan cardboard (7). £50 - £100 98.

A large rectangular box, the lid covered in red Chinese silk fabric, lined in bright turquoise silk, used for fan storage, either multiple items or perhaps a long feather fan. £20 - £40

101 101. A Toole’s theatre catalogue in the shape of a fixed fan, to celebrate the 100th performance of “Bungalow” By Fred Horner on Feb. 14th 1890, contains sketches of scenes from the performance. £40 - £60

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102. “La brise”, a pocket mechanical fan with British Trademark, “Made in England”, contained in original dark red box, the body and three blades in gilded tortoiseshell, the body with Chinoiserie design and the blades each with a different, detailed bird, activated with a silver metal press action, and mirror underneath. £40 - £60 103. Four early 20th century French printed paper advertising fans, three folding, one fixed, two advertising beer, one an aniseed aperitif and one double sided for Amer Picon and Pikina signed and dated 1936 and celebrating a centenary in 1937 (4). £20 - £30

107. A 19th century Trick fan or “éventail surprise”, with six bands of silk, three taupe, three light turquoise, mounted on wood, the construction such that when opened correctly to the right, the fan appears to be a normal folding fan. When opened in the other direction, the sections fall apart and the unsuspecting holder believes they have broken the fan, thus a popular party trick, guard length approx. 33 inches or 33cm. £100 - £200 108. An original, unframed, unmounted and unfinished project for a fan leaf, 19th/20th century, sketch and pastels worked with a blue ground, three naked females lounging across the leaf, unsigned.

Width, to edge of cream border, approx. 20 inches or 51cm. £40 - £60 109. Three fans by modern fan makers, 20th century, two by the Frenchman Frederick Gay, one by the current FCI President, Lorraine Taylor Kent, the latter unsigned and undated Believed approx. 15 – 20 years ago), in Art Deco style, the only example made, hand cut from black pressed high impact PVCU sheet, the colours achieved by applying fragments of iridescent cellophane, the two examples by M. Gay mounted on bamboo, the first with a folding double paper leaf printed with a figure and entitled “Rêves des Douceurs”, signed Frédérick 02, the second in Palmette or Jenny Lind form, each panel printed with entwined male and female bodies, and butterflies, signed to the verso Frédérick 2002. £40 - £70

104 104. Four advertising fans, French, early 20th century, to include a near ballon form perfume fan advertising Azuréa by L.T.Piver; a shiny gold fan advertising the “Salon de Thé Aux Trois Quartiers de Paris” with a floral motif and an ancient building with columns; a paper fan with colourful scenes recto/verso, advertising Pikina aperitif and Amer Picon; and a fan advertising Moet & Chandon champagne, the recto in shiny silver with a design of pink flowers and signed L.Regent (4). £50 - £80 105. Five celluloid brisé fans for a young girl, varying sizes, including a small novelty fan attached to a hand mirror, one in soft peach with chenille tassel, a beige example with painted flowers, a green fan with guards forming a handle, and a floral fan in two shades of turquoise, all with marble shading (5). £60 - £80 106. Three early 20th century French advertising fans of ballon form, relating to newspapers, books and paper, to include a paper fan with double leaf advertising classical literature by Colette, Prévost and Anet, priced at 3.5 Francs under the umbrella of “Le Livre Moderne Illustré”, published by Chambrelent; a fan advertising what to read each day in the newspaper “Le Journal”, the recto showing the incongruous scene of a lady in 18th century dress reading the publication; and a fan advertising “Jougla Plaques et Papiers”, the recto with a colourful print of a wealthy family taking tea in the grounds of their chateau, printed by F G et Cie, Deposé (3). £70 - £100

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110 110. A Scarce fan for the perfumer Eugene Rimmel London Paris, double paper leaf mounted on tan wood with varnished guards, printed with a tender scene of a young woman and her children leaning from a balcony to take hold of a love letter delivered by a white dove, on the verso a poem linking love letters and perfume on the breeze, guard approx. 10.5 inches or 27cm. £40 - £70 111. The Grafton Fur Company, a large late 19th century fan with double paper leaf, mounted on simple wood sticks painted in teal with gold shading, the leaf printed with various celebrity portraits, and entitled “Louis Felberman’s Celebrity Fan” Patent no. 14948 and marked “Printed in Photo Mezzotype by the London stereo…

Photographic Co of 54 Cheapside E.C. and 106 to 108 Regent St W, principally from their Copyright portraits of celebrities”, the verso stating “ Presented by the Grafton Fur Company” and with a monthly calendar for 1893 an a scene of horses and carriages, female passengers wearing fur muffs, guard approx. 13.5 inches or 34cm. £80 - £120

For details of the charges payable in addition to the final Hammer Price of each lot please refer to paragraphs 5 to 9 of the Buyer’s terms at the back of the catalogue.

112 112. A large paper advertising fan for 1893, issued by the Dufayel Company of departments stores, Paris and Versailles, a double paper leaf mounted on simple wood, showing a musical gathering, with six months of the year to each side, the saints days marked, the verso a printed black lace of floral design, a reinforced hole at the top centre so that the calendar could be hung, guard approx. 13.75 inches or 75cm. The Paris store opened in 1856 and was considered the best in the lead up to WWI, with 15,000 employees. it boasted a theatre and a winter garden. It closed in 1930. £90 - £120 113. A large late 19th century fan showing Austrian royalty, the Emperor Frans Joseph, wearing a general’s hat with green tinted vulture feathers, the person next to him is probably the crown prince Rudolf, his son and heir to the throne, or adjutant-general Count Paar), their carriage passing the “Rotunde” in the Prater (woodland between the Danube and the Danube canal) that was built on the occasion of the Vienna World Exhibition in 1873, where a commercial Fair was held in 1888 on the 40th anniversary of the Emperor’s reign, the fan probably being produced for this occasion, the double paper leaf mounted on wood sticks painted in gold, the scene bordered with a realistic print of Brussels Point de Gaze needle lace with fine roses and fillings, marked to the left “Druck v. Joh Haupt, Wein and signed to the right, J. Stamitzer, the verso plain, guard approx. 13.25 inches or 33.5cm. The print being is after a painting by Gottfried Heinrich Wilda who painted a lot of similar scenes with the emperor in his carriage.

The fan was produced by Josef Wertheimer of Vienna. Thanks to FCI member M. Mazura for her help with additional information. £90 - £120 114. Three novelty fans, the first with the 17th century motto of the Isle of Mann, a late 19th century retractable paper cockade fan printed with simple flowers and encased in olive wood from Sorrento, a mirror to one side and the words in latin “quocunque jeceris stabit” or “whithersoever you throw it, it will stand” around the three mailed legs conjoined at the thighs, closed height approx. 9 7/8 inches or 25cm; a pair of cockade fans with simple darkly stained wood handles, the paper leaf mainly cream, cut with points to the folds which are then painted in pastels, closed height approx. 10 7/8 inches or 27cm, one with an old price label of 30 shillings (3). £60 - £100

116 116. A vibrant red feather fan early 20th century, in shades of raspberry and deep red, some feathers striped, designed to interlock and create a haphazard form, likely cock/rooster feathers, the monture of resin or plastic, with four inner sticks and two guards, mottled to resemble tortoiseshell, overall height approx. 27 inches or 68cm, extended width approx. £100 - £200 117. Two fixed hand fans or face screens, the circular panels applied with peacock feathers with different design arrangements, the handles of wood, non-matching, covered with ribbon or thread, overall height approx. 17 inches or 43cm, width approx. 13 inches or 33cm (2). £120 - £200 118. A shaped feather fixed fan or screen, a mix of brown and cream feather, possibly pheasant, the handle of turned wood, stained dark brown, the central panel quite padded, the feathers curling towards the verso, overall height approx. 17 inches or 43cm, width 12 inches or 30.5cm. £40 - £60 119. Two large late 19th century female ostrich feather fans, the first with relatively dark shading, tortoiseshell monture, the upper guard applied with silver metal monogram, fitted with a black silk tassel with ruby threads and formed with a loop for securing the closed fan, overall height approx. 16.5 inches or 42cm; and a similar fan, tortoiseshell monture, the shading more subtle, the upper guard fitted with a detachable feather for use in a hair ornament, guard length approx. 18.5 inches or 47cm (2). £100 - £150

115. A Chimney or Table fan, with label underneath for “Day’s Patent Chimney Ornaments to represent Gothic Architecture”, a brass column with central removable section bearing a circular panel in relief with the English lion and unicorn, and “Day’s Patent”, culminating in a paper cockade with brass side panels, which slots into the top of the column, made from pleated cream paper with a pastel floral design to the recto. £40 - £60

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123. A tortoiseshell and feather fan mounted in fontange form, the feathers dyed a vibrant orange and tipped in brown, a band of marabou dyed orange added at the shoulder, marked in gold for “Buissot, Paris” on the lower guard, overall height approx. 13.75 inches or 35cm. £90 - £120 124. A large black ostrich feather fan, 1890 - 1900, the monture blond tortoiseshell or resin, including the ribs, with the addition of a metal monogram to the upper guard, slight taupe shading to the feathers, overall height approx. 17.5 inches or 44.5cm. £100 - £150 125. A vibrant ostrich feather fan in shades of red to pale pink, large frothy feathers mounted on plastic or resin, the gorge sticks cream, the guards a dull red, overall height approx. 21 inches or 53cm, width approx. 30 inches or 76cm. £60 - £100 120 120. An elegant, small, Duvelleroy white feather fan, in the fitted and labelled box, the monture of white mother of pearl, the feathers curled backwards, densely positioned, as interesting from the verso as from the recto, guard approx. 5 inches of 13cm (2). £150 - £200

126. A large feather fan, early 20th century, salmon pink Ostrich feathers mounted on two pale resin or plastic guards and a single gorge stick, overall height approx. 23 inches or 59cm; and a fixed feather fan, a single black ostrich feather mounted on a tortoiseshell handle, gently shaped, overall length approx. 25.5 inches or 65cm. £40 - £60 127. A marquetry feather fan, 19th century, the leaf formed of three bands of different feathers in shades of brown and cream, on a faux tortoiseshell monture. £70 - £100 128. A large 19th century fan, the pierced tan wood monture applied with long peacock tail feathers, the central section wispy, the tips each featuring the eye, similar in style to a known Duvelleroy version, overall height approx. 17.5 inches of 44.5cm, width approx.

27 inches or 68.5cm. £100 - £200 129. Three Indonesian (Bali/Java) pierced water buffalo hide fans, late 19th century, two of similar palmette form on horn sticks and both painted blue and gold showing a Wayang figure on each panel, the third a fixed hand fan in terracotta and gold, showing a Wayang puppet figure, the leaf fixed into a buffalo horn frame ending in a shaped handle. Overall height approx. 12.5 inches or 32cm (3). £60 - £80

121 121. A c1880’s Duvelleroy feather fan, mounted on simulated blonde tortoiseshell, the rivet with a metal daisy, the downy feathers in cream shading to grey, most likely marabou, with the addition of tiny white shaved feathers to many tips, contained in a paddle-shaped box to fit the width of the fan when closed, labelled inside the lid “Duvelleroy, 11 Boulevard de la Madelaine, Anciennement Passage des Panoramas, PARIS”, overall height approx. 11 inches or 28cm.

Previously in the late Judith Kennedy collection but not included in the previous sale in Yorkshire of her main collection in March 2019.

Previously purchased at Christie’s SK on May 13th 1980 for £50. £150 - £200 122. A large and showy asymmetrical tangerine feather fan, shaded to orange at the tips, early 20th century, the gorge sticks of pale resin or horn, the guards covered in orange silk with a top feature of gold lace, overall height approx. 26 inches or 66cm. £180 - £280

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130. A brightly coloured 19th century crescent shaped Indian flag fan, or Pankha, with embroidery on cloth, worked in concentric bands with the addition of metal thread and sequins, mounted on a turned wooden handle painted orange with green detail.£50 - £100 131. Indian Idyls: a trio of mid to late 19th century fans with an Indian influence, the first showing spectators at a horse event, many wearing plumed turbans, a maiden at the head riding side-saddle, the background with various grand buildings with spires and turrets, colourful shaped arches along the length of the course, the verso resplendent with printed gold archways, gothic spires, figures of Saints and cherubs, the double paper leaf mounted on carved, pierced, silvered and gilded bone, with Mother of pearl thumb guards, guard approx. 10.25 inches or 26.5cm; a similar fan in bone, carved and pierced, the dark blue leaf printed with a scene of boating on a lake in front of a decorated pavilion, the reserves in dull gold with flowers and birds, the verso in the same blue printed with a design of elegant lace, the central cartouche depicting a shepherdess and her sheep with her beau, guard approx. 10.25 inches or 26.5cm; a third fan later 19th century, red silk embroidered in gold metal thread and colourful silks, in the manner of Indian embroidery, mounted on pierced wood painted black, guard approx. 11 inches or 28cm (3). £100 - £120

For details of the charges payable in addition to the final Hammer Price of each lot please refer to paragraphs 5 to 9 of the Buyer’s terms at the back of the catalogue.

133. Two Japanese dance fans, both with wood montures which divide into sections on the upper guard and are finished with knotted string decoration, the first with the monture painted in gold, the double paper leaf with muted ground painted with pale pink flowers and black leaves, a butterfly to one corner, the verso a strong red, with simple gold reed decoration, guard approx. 12.5 inches or 32cm; a second fan with silver ground, painted with black leaves and an outsize peony bloom, a moth on the foliage to the left, the verso in silver, painted with a butterfly and two moths, tan wood monture, fitted with a tassel, guard approx. 11.75 inches or 30cm (2). £50 - £80 134. A Japanese fan, the monture a combination of plain black guards and bamboo gorge sticks, the leaf painted with characters from perhaps a story or theatrical production, the central character in dragon costume, a man seated upon a crane in flight, a lady in robe and obi, a child on her back, and a further child playing a flute or pipe, the reverse sparsely painted with stylized flowers, a moth and a dragonfly, guard length approx.12.75 inches or 32.5cm. £20 - £40 132 132. Two colourful Japanese paper fans, one showing a Geisha girl regarding herself in the mirror, white face contrasting with black hair, signed extensively to the right, the verso a dark cream with random silvering, the monture of lacquered wood, guard approx. 11.25 inches or28.5cm; and a smaller paper fan, the monture of light wood, the gorge sticks pierced, the leaf showing a Sumo wrestler or warrior, wearing an apron or costume bearing symbols, a man to his right carrying a shaped fixed fan, another to the front with a folding fan, the leaf interspersed with small panels bearing Japanese writing, a crowd of observers in traditional dress gathered to watch the proceedings, guard length approx. 8.75 inches or 22cm (2). £60 - £90

135. A 19th century dagger fan or tanto, the pointed steel blade fitted inside a wood case shaped to appear as a closed fan, the inner sections carved to replicate sticks, the “guards“ lacquered in black and painted with flowers in gold. Overall length approx. 10.75 inches or 27.5cm. £100 - £200 136. Japan: a telescopic Japanese fan, double paper leaf mounted on light wood, slightly decorated to the gorge and upper guards, the recto painted with a waterside scene with birds and junk on the water, near habitation, the verso plain cream; a simple fan with cranes painted within a stylised tree to the recto, the double leaf mounted on lightly decorated bamboo, the crane design continuing to the verso where they are shown in flight, artist stamp to the top righthand corner; and four more oriental fans variously depicting waterside scenes and one example with figures wearing elaborate and detailed kimonos (6). £60 - £100 137. A circa 1740’s or slightly earlier Chinese painted ivory brisé fan, most likely for the European export market, the scene showing a gathering of figures with distinctly European faces, an atypical feature for this type of fan, of adults and infants seated, at leisure, in contrast the background is distinctly oriental with ancient stylised trees, foliage and rocks, painted in good strong colour with gold highlights and design to the gorge and upper border, the gorge painted with trees and small buildings, the sticks strung, the verso a painted mirror image of the recto, the monture with shaped head, guard approx. 22cm. £500 - £800

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138. A Chinese map fan, showing a peninsula and islands, a compass to mark the position, two faces of the globe, writing to the left and perhaps a title or signature to the upper right of the recto, the verso covered in varying blocks of writing, perhaps a table, or instruction sheet, plain light tan wood monture, guard approx. 12 5/8 inches or 32cm. £150 - £250 139. Two large Chinese paper fans, both with lacquered and gold painted guards, the first a painting in subtle colours of flowers and birds, the verso with a spray of stylized flowers, the fan a full halfcircle, guard approx. 13 inches or 33cm; a second fan with deep turquoise paper leaf, the leaf painted in pastels with a vignette of two young bunnies, next to a vignette filled with strap-like leaves, and to the far right, possibly, a pair of speckled seals, the verso being plain, guard approx. 11 inches or 28cm (2). £50 - £70 140. A 19th century Chinese cockade fan, the deep purple, shaped paper leaf fitted to wood guards, lacquered in black, painted in gold with a design of foliage and a bird perched in a tree, guard approx. 11.75 inches or 30cm;and a Chinese folding paper fan, the leaf mounted on tan wood, the recto a scene of water within a mountainous area, a chalet-style house to the right, the recto covered with tiny Chinese writing, perhaps the words to a song or a traditional story, a signature to the right side (2). £80 - £120 141. A 19th century Chinese carved ivory brisé fan, Qing Dynasty, the 18 sticks and two guards carved on the recto only, all tips rounded, the guards carved quite deeply with a dragon, foliage and figures, the remainder of the fan with scenes of people at work or leisure, some carrying fans, amidst stylized buildings, trees and birds, guard approx. 7.5 inches or 19cm. £180 - £280

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142. Two very large decorative Chinese fans, late 19th century, each leaf mounted on stained wood with gold decoration to the upper guards, the first with a vibrant red leaf painted with moths and butterflies, the verso more autumnal with autumn leaves and two birds against a black ground; the second fan features simple rural habitation near water, a mountain range in the background, the verso painted pale pink and stamped with a simple design of a bird and several butterflies, the upper edge of the leaf scalloped, the guard lengths differ by half an inch or 1.5cm, the larger fan guard approx.

16 inches or 41cm (2). £60 - £90 143. China: A 19th century Chinese fixed feather, shaped hand screen, the recto painted with a colourful bird and foliage, wood handle painted yellow, quill sections forming a decorative gorge, the verso plain; a Chinese fixed fan of painted silk, mounted on a shaped wood handle, showing a child and his mother, their clothing in silk appliqué, loaded with possessions and heading towards a waiting ship, most likely 20th century (2). £40 - £60 144. Two fans depicting Eastern Courts: a large c 1880’s century Burmese fan, the shaped monture of plain tan wood, the double paper leaf painted recto/verso with celebratory scenes, the first with possibly King Thibaw Min, Burma’s last king and his consort seated atop an elephant, two elaborate carriages in procession behind, carrying court ministers and officials, surrounded by attendants, the colours rich with gold highlights, the second side a vibrant temple scene, guard approx.

14 inches or 35.5cm; and a second fan with oriental influence, second half of the 19th century, the colourful lithographed leaf mounted on shaped, pierced and gilded white Mother of Pearl, the recto showing an outdoor gathering of robed figures, the verso with an unusual daguerreotype effect, showing a Chinese court, the robed figures perhaps wearing embroidered rank badges, seemingly greeting Western officers in dress uniform, entering from the right, guard approx. 10 5/8 inches or 27cm (2) See Neville irons “Fans from the East” page 69 which references a similar fan Burmese in the V&A museum, possibly the work of a court painter. £100 - £200

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For details of the charges payable in addition to the final Hammer Price of each lot please refer to paragraphs 5 to 9 of the Buyer’s terms at the back of the catalogue.

145 145. A very unusual Chinese fan, late 18th century, the wood guards and gorge lacquered in black and decorated in red and gold, the leaf possibly made from the skin of a shark’s bladder, a transparent material, painted with a central cartouche resembling a red cloud, within which feature a pair of elderly Chinese robed figures, with gold highlights, guard approx. 9 inches or 23cm, offered with a modern green shagreen effect fan box lined in cream, from the Fan Museum in Greenwich (2). £200 - £300

146 146. A rare silver lacquer early 19th c Chinese wood brisé fan, the 18 sticks and two guards with rounded tips, the tips painted with animals, birds of flowers, the main body of the fan painted recto/verso with a scene of seated figures, some holding a fan. Guard length approx.

7 and 3/8 inches or 20cm. £400 - £800

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147

147. A Good Large Carved Tortoiseshell Chinese Fan, mid to late 19th century, Qing Dynasty, the monture a good weight and the guards deeply carved with a bat or butterfly, auspicious symbols, figures, buildings and foliage. The gorge, more lightly carved, on both sides, has similar design. Both sides of the double paper leaf show figures gathered in the outdoors, different views of the mountains and water in the background. The figures are dressed in robes of applied silk and their faces are painted on ivory. Guard length 11.5 inches or 29cm. £1200 - £1500

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For details of the charges payable in addition to the final Hammer Price of each lot please refer to paragraphs 5 to 9 of the Buyer’s terms at the back of the catalogue.

148. Four mid-19th century, Qing Dynasty, Chinese feather fans, two tipped with peacock feather, the first of which is also painted centrally with an Elder and his manservant, with reserves each side painted with blousy peonies and other blossom, this floral decoration repeated on the verso, the whole mounted on simply carved and pierced bone, height approx. 13.5 inches or 34cm; a second fan in similar style, with carved and pierced wood monture, the white feathers tipped with peacock feathers, the centre painted with a colourful bird, a butterfly and flowers, height approx. 13.5 inches or 34cm; a third white feather fan, mounted on carved and pierced bone, has a light yellow tint to the background and flowers painted in strong blues and red, a bird to one side, height approx.10.25 inches or 26 cm; the final fan with bone monture, incised gently with figures and foliage, is mounted with goose feathers dyed black and painted with two birds and flowers to the recto, simple flowers to the verso, height approx.

8.25 inches or 21.5cm (4). £100 - £200 149. A 19th century, Qing Dynasty, black lacquered wood fan with gold decoration, of asymmetrical form, both guards and gorge painted with a figure and butterflies amongst flowers, the leaf to one side painted with several figures enjoying leisure pursuits, and the other painted with a spray of colourful flowers and blossom, two birds perhaps in courtship perched on a branch, guard length approx.

11.75 inches or 30cm. £100 - £200

153. A second quarter 19th century Chinese carved tortoiseshell brisé fan, Qing Dynasty, the nineteen inner sticks and upper guard carved, the lower guard plain, a central oval left void for initials, the carving featuring figures to the tips, animals to the next border, figures at leisure including one group who appear to be playing a board game, animals and stylised trees, the verso uncarved, guard approx. 7.75 inches or 19.5cm. £1000 - £1200 154. A mid-Victorian printed fine wool dress, lined with cream glazed cotton, rear fastening with hooks and eyes, round neck, the bodice forming a low point at the front, with ruffles from the shoulder to the waist, and tiny gathers to the skirt to accommodate a good quantity of fabric, shaped, fitted sleeves with tucks to the elbow, same fabric piping to shoulders and bodice, autumnal colours for the fabric, a dark cream ground designed with vertical meandering lines of orange flowers edged with red, alternating with broader bands of turquoise, pale green and brown filled with tiny flowers in orange and pink, completely hand sewn, waist approx. 22 inches or 56cm; a late 19th century black silk taffeta dress of a style suitable for Music Hall, original to the period, with light sea-green panels to the neck and front, elbow-length sleeve and skirt ruffles piped with the same, the front opening to the waist with hook and eye fastening, and further laced in turquoise cord, from the low bodice front to the hem, lined in cream glazed cotton, boned at the ribcage, waist approx. 22 inches or 56cm, hand finished (2). £180 - £280

150. A 19th century Qing Dynasty Chinese fan with carved sandalwood monture, the guards both deeply carved with flowers and foliage, the gorge much less so, the cream gauze leaf mounted à l’Anglaise, embroidered in pastel silks to the recto with a coiled dragon chasing a pearl, his head and upper body in colours, contained in a shaped wood box lacquered in black with gold decoration to the exterior and colourful painting to the lid interior, guard approx. 11.75 inches or 30cm (2). £150 - £250 151. A 19th century Qing Dynasty Chinese silk embroidered fan case or sheath, the sides and shaped top opening edged with blue and white braid, the interior lined with light blue silk, the vibrant blue silk exterior embroidered to one side in couched gold metal thread, with symbols and an animal with horns, flowers and their leaves in two shades of green silk thread, the verso with different forms and flowers. Height approx. 12 5/8 inches or 32cm. £60 - £120 152. A selection of Chinese fans, 19th century to 20th century, for repair, including an unusual Chinese “trick” fan, the monture of wood, intricately lacquered in gold with figures, buildings and butterflies, the pink silk leaf painted in bright colours with figures and trees, the sticks in pairs, facilitating the “trick” or “surprise” action when opened in the wrong direction, as if the fan has broken on incorrect handling, guard length approx. 10.25 inches or 26cm; a large wood fan lacquered in terracotta with black decoration, the guards with pagodas, butterflies and foliage, the gorge in similar fashion with the addition of robed figures, guard length approx. 17 7/8 inches or 45.5cm; a bone fan with simply pierced monture, mounted with a cream gauze leaf embroidered in pastel silks with a dragon chasing a pearl, contained in a fitted black lacquer and gold box, and painted lid interior, guard approx. 8.75 inches or 22cm; a Chinese folding fan with wood monture, lacquered in dark brown and gold, both guards featuring a fan, butterfly, fruits and flowers, guard approx. 11.5 inches or 29cm; a partial bone fan with Mandarin leaf, both sides of the leaf featuring figures in applied silk robes and painted faces (6). £200 - £300

155 155. A large black and cream gauze parasol with frills, applied with machine lace ribbon in panels and bows, c 1900’s, contained in the original box with delivery label to Mrs. Platt at Brown’s Hotel, London, dated 26/7/09, from the retailer Peter Robinson, Regent St. W, the black wood handle carved and shaped as a claw holding a clear, faceted diamond-shaped stone; and a further example of similar or slightly later period in oyster silk, trimmed with a deep macramé/fringed panel, a ribbon bow to the stained wood handle, the knop of clear plastic with a gold metal band (3). £100 - £150

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160. A circa 1900 Chinese cream silk crepe fringed cape, hip length, with two layers of macramé and silk fringes, a centre back panel adorned with silk roundels and elaborate tassels, long cord ties to the front also with tassels, the body of the cape elaborately embroidered with sunflowers and various smaller blooms, approx. 33 inches or 84cm deep at the back centre £150 - £250 161. A black silk Chinese Canton shawl embroidered throughout in white silk, the corners worked with the unusual design of large pineapples, smaller fruits, flowers and leaves filling the remaining space, approx. 50 by 53inches or 127 by 135cm, macramé and light fringing in black. £300 - £400 162. A cream silk Chinese Canton shawl embroidered throughout in polychrome, with medium to small flowers in vibrant pink or shades of yellow, sprigs and florets filling all available space, approx. 50 by 50 inches or 127 by 127cm, not including the cream silk macramé and fringe. £280 - £350 156 (detail) 156. A fine and scarce feather pelerine or shoulder cape, 1830’s to 60’s, most probably produced by Native American Indians, (museum opinions vary), a marquetry design of many colours around the shoulders and retaining the long front panels or lappets, constructed on cotton and lined with fluffy cream marabou feathers. £250 - £350

163. Two Azute or Assyut shawls, 1920’s, the first in black, with the addition of silver metal strips, with three large central diamonds of slightly different sizes, all designed with crosshatched lines, at each end, three bands of triangles, approx. 94 inches or 239cm by 26 inches or 64cm; a cream azute shawl, featuring a very large central diamond, a smaller diamond to each side, and deep bands of figures and trees at each end, the metal strips with a gold sheen, small motifs filling the remaining net before two bands of triangles at each end, approx. 90 by 27 inches or 68cm by 128cm (2). £180 - £250 164. A 1900 – 1930’s Canton Chinese cream silk piano shawl, embroidered with flowers in purple and lilac, orange and tangerine, cerise and pink silk thread, with red berries and leaves of mainly teal and dark turquoise, cream macramé panel and deep silk fringing, approx. 52 inches or 132cm square with an additional 17 inches or 43cm for the macramé and fringing. £120 - £180 165. A 1920’s/30’s black ostrich feather shoulder cape, double-lined in black chiffon, length from neck to waist approx. 23 inches or 58cm. £50 - £80

157 157. A pair of children’s horse-riding slipper stirrups, in handstitched leather and metal, likely 18th or early 19th century. See the Shoe Museum in Romans sur Isere, France, for a similar example. £100 - £200 158. Two Edwardian whitework dresses, the first in fine lawn with long sleeves, insertion at the high waist allowing ribbon insertion, godets of tucked lawn, the main body a combination of floral chemical lace panels and valenciennes style lace, flared from the hip, front fastening with a ruffle from neck to hip, approx. 46.5 inches or 118cm shoulder to hem approx. 34 inches or 86cm circumference under the arms ; a second cotton dress, broderie anglaise and floral machine embroidery, long sleeves, rear fastening, front collar, waist approx. 23 inches or 58cm, shoulder to hem length approx. 49 inches or 124cm (2). £180 - £280 159. Two Edwardian cream silk underskirts with trained hems, the lower section fashioned with machine lace insertion, tucks and flounces, one with horizonal panels of lace insertion to the front, the other with horizontal lace insertion all round (2). £100 - £150

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166. Two Azute or Assyut shawls, 1920’s, the first in black having an unusual design of large rectangles and squares on the diagonal, the squares containing bands of buildings or smaller squares, or a mix of each, Approx. 86 inches or 218cm by52 inches or 1.32cm; the second shawl, in cream, has three large central diamonds with a gold hue to the metal strips, approx. 90 inches or 229cm by 28 inches or 71cm, additionally, a small reproduction azute stole, much coarser net, applied silk fringed braid to each end, a good copy in geometric form, with camels and other unusual designs, approx. 72 inches or 183cm by 16.5 inches or 42cm (3)). £180 - £250 167. A quality 1920’s/30’s feather shoulder cape, bi- colour, cream/brown, from the female ostrich, lined in cream, shaped with a deep dip to the back, front ties finished with feathers, neck to back entre hem approx.23 inches or 58cm. £100 - £200 168. Early 20thc long black feather collar with slightly deeper back, lined with black silk and finished at the front points with 8 inches or 20cm of black fringing; a royal blue ostrich feather boa approx.

32 inches or 81cm (2). £40 - £70 169. A substantial early 20th century black ostrich feather boa with elaborate long knotted tassels and fringing to each end approx. 64 inches or 162cm. £40 - £70

For details of the charges payable in addition to the final Hammer Price of each lot please refer to paragraphs 5 to 9 of the Buyer’s terms at the back of the catalogue.

156 170. Peter Yapp: Two pairs of Louis heeled pumps with pointed toes in soft kid leather, 1900 – 1910, both lined in cream kid, one pair in turquoise blue with white stitched detail, the other in shiny gold with gold cut steel rosettes, labelled in side for the retailer Peter Yapp, By Appointment to her Majesty the Queen, (Victoria),200, 201 and 210 Sloane Street, London stamped AFR and 87, the company was established by Peter Yapp in 1793 and closed in 1971 (2). £90 - £120 171. A pair of brown crocodile shoes with front buckles on the tongues, leather-lined, 1900 - 1910, marked inside for the retailer Gooch of Brompton Road, London possibly a size 6, and a black suede and leather pair, hand-made in Florence, retailed by Harvey Nichols of Knightsbridge, further labelled for Ferragamo of Italy, 1930’s/40’s, high heel, noted inside 8L £60 - £80 172. C 1900 to the 1920’s a Canton Chinese cream silk piano shawl, medium weight, embroidered almost throughout with flowers in pale blue silk, the designs radiating from the corners leaving a cross-shaped silk section to the middle, macrame panel and light cream silk fringing, the silk panel approx. 59 inches by 62.5 inches or 158cm by 150cm. £100 - £200

161

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173. Five Victorian and Edwardian bonnets and hats, black, French, ruffled crepe with subtle details to shape or trimming (5). £50 - £100 174. A Middle Eastern silk stole or shawl 19th/20th century, formed as a long cape with weighted tassel at the back of the neck and two more on the front panels, the background bright red with woven silk stripes in cream, yellow and gold, all sides with floss silk fringing; and an orange silk sari, with woven silk borders and ends, with floral design. £50 - £80 175. A very fine Paisley or French Long Shawl, with a very tight weave, a red cross to the centre, intricate end and side borders, designed in vertical bands containing stylized foliate and boteh designs, meeting with the central cross, no signature noted, length approx. 137 inches or 3.46m, width 60.5 inches or 154cm. £300 - £500

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176. C1900 to the 1920’s, a large Canton Chinese silk piano shawl, of particularly heavy weight due to the density of the design, embroidered on an unusual background of royal blue, (50cm x 42cm), finished with a 10cm macramé border before ending with a fringe of approx. 47cm, the embroidery features exotic birds and butterflies, the very centre being filled with foliage, birds with extravagant tails, butterflies and large blooms in shades of pale orange, ginger, and white, next, a border of leaves in differing shades of green, birds with outspread tails grouped to the corners, an outer border of the flowers and birds offset by bare blue silk to each side. £200 - £400 177. Eight various French hats, 1920’s and later, several unworn, to include: two steel grey straw hats for a young girl, both unworn, trimmed with red velvet ribbon and ornamented with cherries and leaves; a straw boater with navy velvet ribbon; a traditional Southern France ladies’ straw hat with very small crown, adorned with a cream and lime green embroidered ribbon; two small cloche hats, one in green straw with moulded crown and trimmed with a green pleated grosgrain ribbon, the other in natural straw adorned with a cream velvet ribbon and a posy of white flowers, labelled inside for “”Aux Elégantes, A. Malavelle, St Jean D’Anglély” and bearing a paper size label of 2.5 / 52; and finally, two large unworn cloche hats, the first in a sturdy woven fabric in light ginger, the brim upturned at the rear, the crown applied with felt flowers in shades of cream and pale pink, the second in a similar but shiny fabric is trimmed with a narrow gold ribbon and a rosette in the same ribbon to the side, both are lined in black glazed cotton. (8). £150 - £250 180 178. C1900 to the 1920’s a large Canton Chinese black silk piano shawl, of heavy weight due to the density of the embroidery, vibrant coloured silk embroidered with birds of various sizes, some with long tails, paeonies surrounded by smaller daisies, leaves and butterflies cover the shawl, within an outer border of flowers and butterflies, a macramé band leads to long black silk fringing, the silk panel approx. 48 inches or 122cm by 51 inches or 129cm with an additional 24 inches for the macramé and fringing. £250 - £350 179. A 1920’s dropped waisted chiffon Flapper dress, and a 1930’s black lace evening gown, full length, constructed in panels, the 20’s dress in black chiffon subtly embroidered in black silk, tambour stitch, with additional highlights in bronze metal thread, the underarms dropped to almost waist level, the lower panel and the neck binding in fine black silk, shoulder to hem approx. 47 inches or 120cm; and a black machine lace 1930’s full length gown, formed with four sections on the skirt bound with black tape but effectively open to show an underlayer, the same on the sleeves, the neck formed with draped silver lamé shaped as a rose to the front, a large diamanté to the centre, the elbow-length sleeves are bound with silver lamé (2). £120 - £200 180. A 1920’s French beaded flapper dress, the lilac cotton gauze covered with clear beads, supplemented by paisley boteh designs in white beading. Unlabelled. £250 - £350 181. A 1920’s dark blue long sleeved gros-grain day dress with side pleating to the skirt, diamanté buckle, the collar and cuffs trimmed in oyster silk £40 - £60 182. A 1940’s silver fox fur shoulder cape with feet as ties, lined in black crepe, neck to waist length approx. 15 inches or 38cm, together with a silver fox stole with mask and tail, overall length approx. 53 inches or 135cm (2). £40 - £60

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175

183. A vintage cream ermine shoulder cape, together with a knee length coat, possibly rabbit, a date label inside suggesting 1935, a light mink stole with tails, and a light brown fur stole lined in silk satin (4). £30 - £50 184. A vintage silver fox fur hat with side panels to cover the ears, perhaps for motoring, front ties and hook catch, lined in black. £30 - £50 185. A vintage waist-length silver fox fur cape with slits to slip the arms through, unlabeled, lined in a heavy plain black silk satin, approx. length from neck to centre back 22 inches or 56cm together with some remnants of fur, and a further dark fur jacket, possibly musquash, with a dark brown silk satin lining, £30 - £50 186. A vintage dark mink hip length jacket, unlabeled, worn by the vendor’s aunt in the 1960’s, lined in dark brown silk embossed with flowers, approx. size 12/14, approx. length from neck to centre back, 25 inches or 63cm. £60 - £90 187. A vintage navy-blue velvet full length dress by ANABELINDA of Oxford, a boutique known for its quality of design and construction, in existence between 1971 and 2012, this dress purchased between 1983 and 1986 by the vendor, trimmed in tartan silk, the collar, front bow, cuffs, and piping to bodice and shirt, backfastening with covered buttons, approx. size 10/12 £70 - £100

For details of the charges payable in addition to the final Hammer Price of each lot please refer to paragraphs 5 to 9 of the Buyer’s terms at the back of the catalogue.

188. Two 1950’s evening dresses and black lace jacket. The first dress with wide shoulder straps, with rear bows well- constructed, in deep blue silk taffeta, full length, with a skirt lining of black net, approx. size 12; a full-length black floral machine lace evening dress with short sleeves and black silk lining, and an unlined black lace hip length machine lace jacket with floral design and elbow-length sleeves (3). £80 - £120

189.Two bowler hats, one a substantial weight, labelled J.Morgan, 24 Sth Anne Street, Dublin, with a warm quilted rim lining, size 7¼ , lined in cream, the other a summer weight “The Perfectus Hat” by Dunn and Co, the same size, known to have been worn by a member of the vendor’s family, Colonel Douglas Baird, who participated as a Judge at the prestigious Dublin Horse Show, Ireland (2). £60 - £90

193. A quantity of pastel silk and other lingerie and nightwear, and a buttermilk cream silk fringed shawl, from the 1930’s to 40’s, to include camiknickers and slips (some matching), bodices, flounced nightgowns some lace trimmed (16). £100 - £200 194. A pair of gold leather shoes for a young girl, leather soled with part cream kid lining, warranted as “Hand Sewn”; a quantity of Edwardian and earlier children’s clothes, to include chemises, petticoats, embroidered and smocked dresses, bonnets, and a mustard crepe flounced dress for an older girl (16). £80 - £120 195. An Edwardian Irish crochet dress, sleeveless, a summer weight and slender form with motifs of bows and flowers including some raised work, mid-calf to full length, size 10 approx. £250 - £350

190. A pair of leather ice-skating boots for a young child, white, marked on the steel blade for “SLM CANADA”, with “ORBIT” in gold on the tongue, one strap and laces £30 - £50 191. Two 19th century fine cotton lawn Christening gowns, both particularly long in the skirts, the first with extensive tucks, front lace ruffles, and a front panel with tucks alternating with Valenciennes style lace, short sleeves with triple ruffles, rear neck and waist tie fastening, skirt length approx. 41 inches or 104cm; a second christening gown from the same family, most likely earlier and certainly smaller, with front ruffles and a centre panel finely embroidered in white tambour stitch, Indian, skirt length approx. 35 inches or 89cm (2). £100 - £200 192. Lingerie: from the 20’s to 40’s’s, a selection of silk and satin nightwear and lingerie in soft peach, cream, to include three peach full-petticoats, all with ecru machine lace trimming the bodice, and a lace border to the hems, one with floral appliqué to the bodice, all with shoe-string straps; another in cream silk satin, with crepe flowers applied to the bodice, and narrow lace edging to the hem; a peach silk bedjacket in bolero style, colourfully embroidered with flowers, ribbons and bows; two cream nightgowns, one with appliqué flowers to the bodice against an open, lattice background, the other very long and flowing, tie back, the bodice applied with pale pink floral panels with slim edging in a machine lace to the arms and hem; a 1930’s lounging jacket in salmon chiffon, the collar and long ties of salmon silk satin, a panel of ecru machine lace inserted to the back, and both sides at the front with voluminous batwing sleeves, gathered at the cuff; a 1920’s nightgown with simple silk embroidery and faggot stitching to the front, short sleeves and tie back, labelled “ pure silk”; a sheer silk chiffon nightgown, tiny silk flowers applied to the front of the bodice and shoulder, tie back, gathers at the hip, the skirt cut on the cross; finally, a silk chiffon gown in salmon, applied with a front ruffle, decorative lacing, and embroidered with tiny blue flowers(11). £300 - £600

195

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201. A fine cream silk Maltese lace stole, in three panels, width approx. 10.5 inches or 27cm, length approx. 88 inches or 224cm; a Brussels tape lace collar with long points, reaching past the waist, a flounce of Bruges bobbin lace approx. 5 inches or 13cm by 124 inches or 315cm; a circular skirt bottom in Rosaline Perlée; and a Point de Gaze modesty vest and small fragment (6). £100 - £200 202. A finely worked and deep 18th century Dresden whitework fischu, hand hemmed along the top edge, with scattered sprigs throughout, the side borders with flowers and leaves, a variety of fillings, lower point designed with a large flower basket, approx. 36 inches or 89cm deep into the point £150 - £250 203. Antique lace: A Brussels muslin appliqué veil or shawl, mid-19th century, triangular, with muslin applied to the long edge, meandering flowers to the upper section and a deep lace design along the sides and into the point, approx. 87 by 61 inches or 220 by 155cm. £200 - £300 196 (part) 196. Antique Lace: A deep flounce of late 19th century Brussels bobbin appliqué, a floral design with sprigs to the upper section, approx. 128 inches or 325cm; and a triangular lace shawl, embroidered, probably Limerick, long edge with narrow border, the others scalloped and embroidered, approx. 71 by 94 inches or 180 by 239cm (2). £150 - £200 197. 19th century whitework and other lace, mainly handkerchiefs, including a pair of knitted cuffs, a lace edged Edwardian jabot, and a small handkerchief embroidered in the manner of a French traditional cap back, additionally, 4 miscellaneous examples edged with bobbin lace; one silk example edged with very fine machine embroidered flowers; a white work example with bobbin border, drawn thread, and “OO” in one corner (edges A/F and a hole in the lawn); another, embroidered with bunches of grapes and their leaves, scalloped edge ( wear to the lawn in a few places); a fine 20th century example with tiny embroidered flowers and leaves entwined initials to one corner; another 19th century example embroidered with flowers and leaves, scalloped edges, and a fine example with scalloped edges, finely worked with multiple fillings, wild flowers embroidered as an inner border, and entwined initials ( small light stain to the lawn but otherwise clean and crisp) (14). £80 - £120 198. A quantity of 19th century lace, to include a handkerchief with Valenciennes style flounced edge and embroidered initials; Bedfordshire bobbin lace, Carrickmacross guipure, tape lace flounces, a Carrickmacross lappet, Irish crochet, Alencon needle lace, Brussels bobbin, Brussels Mixed, a floral net flounce, a machine lace trimmed Glengarrie, and various fragments (a quantity). £50 - £80 199. A quantity of black lace shawls, collars and flounces, a mix of machine lace and handmade pieces, to include a good stole with daffodil design, a large triangular shawl, a wide rectangular stole, several collars and flounces (a quantity). £50 - £80 200. A fine 19th century triangular shawl or veil in Brussels needle lace bordered with flowers and leaves scattered with lace flowerheads, with large floral sprays to all three points, long side approx.

100 inches or 254cm; an early 20th century tambour lace stole, with scalloped edges and flowerheads to each end (2). £280 - £380

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204 204. A fine and large rectangular Brussels needle lace wedding veil, floral design, approx. 75 inches by 79 inches or 190cm by 201cm, accompanied by the wax wedding circlet and a silver lamé train, lined in cream silk chiffon, designed to fasten at the shoulder, weighted down with a heavy silver bead tassel to either side, finished near the very bottom with a lamé bow and cream net, all contained in a Browns of Chester box annotated “Mrs Whitelock’s wedding veil” (3). £250 - £350

For details of the charges payable in addition to the final Hammer Price of each lot please refer to paragraphs 5 to 9 of the Buyer’s terms at the back of the catalogue.

210 205. Antique lace stoles and shawls, to include an embroidered net example, probably Limerick, approx. 63 inches or 140cm square, another embroidered example with the design deeper along one long side, approx. 80 inches by 45 inches or 203cm by 107cm; and a machine lace stole with detail to the borders and ends, approx. 25 inches by 118 inches, or 64cm by 3m (3). £100 - £150 206. Antique lace; a small quantity of 19th century hand-made lace items to include a Brussels Point de gaze handkerchief, two short lengths approx. 21 and 25 inches or 53 and 64cm, a short length of Honiton appliqué, an Irish crochet collar with attached jabot, a lawn baby bonnet with fine fillings, possibly Ayrshire, a large quantity of later embroidered cotton or lawn handkerchiefs, others with Valencienne bobbin lace edging, and a 20th century embroidered lawn bag. (quantity). £100 - £150

212 212. Antique Lace: Three very good 19th century lappets, one in Honiton bobbin lace, the others Belgian, the first, a wide and square ended lappet or scarf, is worked by a very competent lacemaker in Mixed Brussels, incorporating exquisite and unusual flowers, fruits and leaves with raised veins, several repeats divided by diagonal sections with guipure, in contrast with the larger panels of net appliqué, approx.

60 inches or 154cm by 5 inches or 12.5cm; next, a much smaller but fine Brussels needle lace lappet with shaped ends, these with intricate detail and fillings and some extra small flowers in relief, approx. 39 inches or 99cm by 3.5/8 inches or 8.5cm, the Honiton lappet or scarf has square ends and typical flowers and leaves throughout, larger flowers to the centre having a larger number of leadworks, approx. 52 inches or 132cm by24.5 inches or 62cm (3). £100 - £200

207. A last quarter 18th century rectangular Honiton appliqué lace veil, the corners each with large floral sprays and leaves, the centre with scattered florets the borders all with flowers, approx. 68 inches or 1.73cm by 74 inches or 188cm. £120 - £180 208. Edwardian frilled long tambour embroidered lace shawl, cream, the floral design reminiscent of Brussels Point de Gaze, some flowers with fine fillings, bows and floral ovals, approx. 100 inches by 22.5 inches or 254cm by 57cm including frills. £60 - £80 209. Fine Antique Carrickmacross off-white lace stole, scalloped borders with loops, large floral feature at each end, the sides and remainder of the net featuring sprigs of matching flowers, approx. 264cm by 51cm or 104 inches by 20 inches. £80 - £150 210. Antique Lace: A selection of 19th century lace lappets, English, to include a Honiton Bobbin lace example featuring roses filled with leadworks; a very narrow, longer example, very finely worked and most likely Le Puy; and two more, wider and generally larger, the first possibly Le Puy, the second more likely Bedfordshire (4). £100 - £150 211. Antique Lace: A selection of needle lace items with a look of Oya from Turkey, or the surrounding areas of the Ottoman Mediterranean, including a very finely worked reticule, 19th century, with a floral design, lined in orange silk; three mats of varying sizes; a quantity of colourful motifs for adorning the edges of traditional headscarves, and two modern examples of such headscarves (7). £50 - £70

213 213. Antique Lace: A 19th century Youghal needle lace lappet, quite narrow with wider, oval ends, worked with flowers and leaves within a guipure background, Approx. 33.5 inches or 85cm by 3 inches or 7.5cm at the widest point; a very fine black Chantilly lace lappet, designed with flowers and leaves, approx.36 inches or 92cm by 3 inches or 7cm at the widest point; and finally another black Chantilly lace lappet, with particularly fine ends, shaped, with flowers, approx.

43 inches or 90cm by 2.5 inches or 6cm at the widest point (3). £100 - £200

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216. Hollie Point: Two good needle lace examples, one a rectangle in a frame, the other the crown within a bonnet, the first, approx.2.25 inches or 5.5cm by 1.25 inches or 3cm, laid against turquoise felt, is a good example of flowers in a pot edged at the side in lawn and embroidery, this panel has most likely been cut from one shoulder of a baby’s chemise, modern frame; a fairly large white lawn baby bonnet, the bulk of which features tucks in minute stitches, shaped into a circular crown of Hollie Point, the design again of flowers in a pot, in addition a very pale blue ribbon has been attached all around the front of the bonnet, and then covered in simple lace (2). £150 - £250

214 214. Hollie Point: two 19th century baby bonnets, both worked in very fine lawn, the first, and largest, having a double layer and frill to the front and a narrow insertion of quite geometric needle lace located centre front, the second bonnet, with front draw string making it quite frilly, has a back-centre panel of drawn thread and a central crown with circular needle lace panel designed with several blooms in a vase (2). £100 - £150

215 215. Hollie Point: A framed and glazed rectangle of 19th century needle lace designed with a tall sunflower in a pot laid against a turquoise felt ground; a late 18th century or early 19th century lawn baby bonnet, the crown with a circular needle lace panel of an ornate vase of flowers, surrounded by bobbin lace, itself with small holes in the design, a wide border of early lace, possibly Mechlin, with good floral design running the length of the bonnet front, and a further narrow panel of bobbin lace joining crown to frontal lace, front draw thread and side ties (2). £100 - £150

217. Hollie Point: Two good needle lace examples, one a long rectangle in a frame, the other a fine and early lawn baby bonnet with double front frill, and two insertions of Hollie Point, the framed example approx. 3 inches or 7.5cm by 1 inch or 2.5cm, the design appears to be two pots containing a single flower, one above the other, in a modern frame; a frilled baby bonnet, with gathers into the crown, this featuring a pot containing three blooms, the tallest one being bigger than the others, the rectangular panel from crown to the base of the neck also more unusual than the norm, having a tall flower with two smaller flowers, below, no pot, but all four corners worked in a wave pattern (2). £150 - £250 218. Antique Lace: Three 19th century lappets, the first in Youghal, Irish needle point, worked with pattern repeats, some most unusually with small motifs laid onto net, the rest guipure, approx. 31 inches or 79cm by 2.5 inches or 6.5cm at the rounded ends; a fine black Chantilly lace lappet with shaped ends, and scalloped edges, a similar design throughout with the addition of flowers to the larger motifs at each end, a join at the centre, approx. 39 inches or 99cm by 4 inches or 10cm at the widest point; and a final lace lappet, black Chantilly, with wider ends and a central join, approx. 46.5 inches or 118cm (3). £100 - £200 219. 19th century whitework: four examples of whitework embroidery, the smallest being a baby bonnet with circular crown, worked in bands, with fine draw threads to the front and back; a much larger lawn cap for an adult female, with large back panel featuring a flower spray surrounded by smaller flowers and leaves, a wide band around the front featuring the same flowers; another cap, in similar style, the back panel with a much larger central flower in very tight whitework, surrounded by flowers of equal skill, a front band with matching flowers; and a net cap, formed with two side panels, having identical large flower surrounded by smaller flowers and leaves, all featuring fine fillings in different designs, hemmed at the bottom, raw at the front (4). £70 - £100 220. A quantity of 19th and 20th century Sol handmade lace mats, in silk and cotton, perhaps Nanduti or Tenerife; an embroidered net lady’s cap; a French traditional lace bonnet, four unused motifs and a collar, four of the mats appear to be formed from fibre; two are cotton in beige and white; four in silk, cream; four in silk, mixed colours; one large, circular, in cotton and another similar but square, the net cap, with front ties and circular crown, worked in green and yellow silk which could be Limerick, the French cap, formed from white machine lace, has a stiffened pleated and shaped neck panel, each motif with a different design, the collar, in cream cotton, features different designs in the central band (23). £70 - £100 221. Three centuries of antique lace of interest to Collectors, with a selection of needle and bobbin lace from Europe and the UK, examples including lengths and fragments of tambour, muslin appliqué, embroidered net, tape lace, fine bobbin, needle lace, and odd miscellaneous fragments (a quantity). £80 - £120

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For details of the charges payable in addition to the final Hammer Price of each lot please refer to paragraphs 5 to 9 of the Buyer’s terms at the back of the catalogue.

222. A quantity of 19th century wide silk ribbons, varying designs, some short lengths, up to approx. 2m, one finished with tassels at each end, mainly unused (7). £100 - £150 223. A pair of 19th century opera glasses with folding handle, in pink mother of pearl and gold metal, the handle finished on white mother of pearl. £40 - £60 224. A selection of vintage ribbons, braids, and beadwork, from 1900 to the 20th century, many incorporating gold metal thread (12). £40 - £70 225. Two hallmarked silver purses with short chains and finger rings, both classically engraved and bearing initials, the smaller fitted with leather compartments, the larger with similar and the addition of a pencil and writing slate, a calling card inside, for Harry Greenacre, this one a gift from “H to M”, both dated 1914 and marked for Joseph Gloster Ltd, Birmingham (2). £40 - £60

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226 226. Powder boxes: Four 20th century commercial powder boxes, part contents present, for “Quelques Fleurs” by Houbigant, in the distinctive yellow box with flower basket, the powder puff designed box for L’Aimant” by Coty, a classical box for the “Poudre de Beauté de Vichy” and “Gemey” c 1945 (4). £40 - £60

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227. Powder Boxes: Five empty 20th century French powder boxes ranging from “Pompeia” by L.T.Piver c 1905 to “Soir de Paris”

by Bourjois, an uncommon “Cappi” by Cheramy Paris, a small Deco box entitled “Louisy”, the maker’s name obscured by the 1 franc 50 price label, and “Lilas” Poudre de Riz by D’Orsay (5). £50 - £80 228. Powder boxes: Four empty French commercial powder boxes, early 20th century to the 1960’s, to include “Anthea” by Roger & Gallet, original price 9F 50, “Poudre Malacéine” by Monpelas, Paris, “L’Aimant” by Coty, and “Voile Invisible” by Elizabeth Arden c 1960’s (4). £50 - £80 229. Powder boxes: Four unused French commercial powder boxes, full contents, interior covers untouched, to include “Poudre billet douce” meaning “love letter” by Sergy Paris, “Beatrice” by Marmelle, Paris, “Rodoll” by P. Giraud, Paris, and “Poudre Malacéine Nacrée” by Montpela, Paris (4). £50 - £80

229

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231. A seldom seen boxed rouge set for Houbigant’s “Quelques Fleurs”, the range launched in 1912, the box in strong card with red leatherette effect edge and underside, entitled “Les Nouances Houbigant”, fronted by the well-loved basket of flowers on vibrant yellow, the lift-up lid revealing 12 different shades of powdered rouge, covered with a cellophane sheet, part used, “Fard (blush) en Beauté” £100 - £200

230 230. Powder boxes: Six unused French commercial powder boxes, full contents, with interior covers, to include “Soir de Paris” by Bourjois, “Poudre velouté” by Chermay, two sizes of “Nouvelle Poudre Simon”, Simon, Paris, “Poudre Donge” in the shade Ocre Rosée, and Coeur de France by P. Giraud Paris (6). £60 - £100

232 232. Vintage Hermès Paris silk carré “Gastronomie”, 1963, designed by Christiane Vauzelles as a special issue for the 200th anniversary of Hennessy cognac, note the logo on the brandy glass and “Hennessy” printed to the bottom left of the scarf, hand-rolled hem; this artist rarely signed her designs, copyright “C” in the border design to the bottom right corner, to the right of the “Hermès Paris”, approx. 28 inches by 30 inches or 71cm x 76. £80 - £120 233. Boxed Vintage Hermès Paris silk carré, “Gaucho”, bearing the attribution bottom centre along with the Copyright “C”, and further to the left “Caty” for Caty Latham, the design, first issued in 1978, is of the harness worn by horses in the Gaucho community of South America, hand-sewn, front-rolled hem, Hermès tag, 100% soie, approx. 33.5 inches by 34. £90 - £120 234. Vintage Hermès Paris silk carré, “Ramage” with singing birds, and fruits designed c 1970 by Lenke Szechenzyl, copyright “C” and “Hermes Paris” to the bottom centre, hand sewn, front- rolled hem, approx. 33.5 inches by 34.5. £80 - £120 235. Vintage Hermès Paris silk carré, “Tsubas”, first designed by Christiane Vauzelles in 1971 (re-issue in 1991), depicting five examples of the handle or protective guard of a Japanese sword, design name printed bottom centre, “Hermes Paris” with Copyright “C” to the bottom right corner, hand-sewn front-rolled hem, dryclean/100% soie tag to one corner, approx. 35 inches by 34 £80 - £120

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236. Vintage Hermès silk carré, “Cendrillon”, designed by Karin Swildens in 1972, design name in centre, “Hermès Paris and the copyright “C” bottom centre, hand-sewn front-rolled hem, approx. 34 inches by 35 inches £40 - £70

For details of the charges payable in addition to the final Hammer Price of each lot please refer to paragraphs 5 to 9 of the Buyer’s terms at the back of the catalogue.

239. Three 19th century silver metal evening bags, one hallmarked, chain mail and unlined, the two remaining beaded, one with “Premiere qualité” stamped on the kid lining, the other lined in leather with a purse attachment in the centre (3). £40 - £70 240. Antique and later accessories, to include ostrich feathers in many colours, some with original French labels, a selection of hair combs in horn and tortoiseshell, including a pair with coloured bobbles, and a Spanish example, evening gloves, and an ostrich skin handbag lined in suede, £100 - £150 241. A large collection of dress buckles, from c 1900 to 1940, with a great many designed as bows, four in diamanté, two in diamanté and either blue glass or enamel, seven in gold metal with filigree, others with piercing and coloured stones, one in white metal with black stones, two in the style of nurses buckles in ornately designed white metal, marked EPNS to the rear, one large buckle in cut steel, one in white metal with possibly abalone shell, four on plastic and still carded one in clear plastic 12 in coloured plastic, one as a red poppy and a dress clip (37). £200 - £300 237 237. Rare vintage French automobile silk scarf entitled “Les 24 Heures du Mans”, printed for the “Automobile Club de l’Ouest”, with a chequered pattern showing the cars and the names of all the winners of “Le Mans” from 1923 to 1975, this edition with red Ferrari steering wheel to the bottom right, hand-sewn, front-rolled hem, approx. 32.5 by 33.5 inches. Similar example, different year sold by Artcurial in Paris in July 2012, lot 43, for 357€ £200 - £300

242. Ethiopian cross pendants, one filigree, 9 others, and a brass metal necklace formed of small squares (11). £40 - £60 243. Antique scissors: a pretty pair of silver embossed metal needlework scissors with cherubs sitting just above the finger holes, seen from the back one at least seems to have wings, marked 800 on one blade (German silver), approx. 4 inches or 10cm, another very ornately embossed sterling silver scissors, approx. 4.25 inches or 10.5cm (2). £80 - £120 244. Antique scissors: an attractively shaped pair of Continental gold needlework scissors with steel blades and gold handles, with a matching sheath to protect the points, marks to scissors and sheath, approx. 3.75 inches or 9.5cm. £30 - £50

238 238. Vintage Hermès silk carré, “Plumes”, designed by Henri de Linares, 1953, ginger border, hand-rolled hem, no tags or labels, approx. 34.5 inches by 34 or 88.5cm by 86.5. £80 - £120

245 245. Antique Scissors: Seven pairs of miniature scissors, two shaped as storks, presumably for dolls, different sizes and metals, ranging from approx. one inch to one and a quarter inch to one and a half inches for the bird examples (2 to 4cm) (7). £100 - £150

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246. Antique Scissors: A Commemorative pair of scissors, marked “Hyane Solingen” on the lower blade, and decorated with scrolling and the word “Adenker” on the upper blade, above the finger rings, the shank is shaped, each side with an oval containing an oval, these ovals bearing the portrait of a king to the left and Queen to the right, possibly late 19th century, identification of the royal couple uncertain, the king wears a laurel wreath and the queen a crown and short veil? Approx. 6 inches or 15cm long. £70 - £100

255 252. Antique Scissors: two unusual pairs, one in steel the shank with bunches of grapes and leaves in gold metal, no marks noted, approx. 3.5 inches or 9cm; a heavier second pair, with shaped rings, raised centres to the blades, leaving the underneath as void, the shaft and rings appearing to be in brass, approx. 4 inches or 10cm (2). £70 - £100

247. Antique Scissors: a pair of adjustable buttonhole scissors marked W. Bohm Solingen, lightly gilded on the shank, this being incised lightly and also decoratively shaped, approx. 4 inches or 10cm; another simple pair of scissors, marked “Nogent” (a French company), note the sloped and angular shape of the rings, approx.

3.75 inches or 9.5cm (2). £50 - £70 248. Antique Scissors: a small pair of white embossed metal chatelaine scissors, approx. 3 inches or 7.5cm plus chain; a pair of chatelaine scissors designed as a sword in its scabbard, approx. 3.5 inches or 8.5cm plus chain (2). £80 - £120 249. Antique Scissors: A large and ornate pair of scissors and accompanying sheath, the scissors shaped on the shank and embossed to the side of the rings, the sheath with a touch of gilt to the various areas of different designs, with an empty oval on each side to the centre, presumably for engraved initials, approx. 5 inches or 13cm. £60 - £80 250. Antique Scissors: Two pairs of interesting scissors, the first quite fine with detailed design to the shank and marked “?????” L peter??, approx. 3.75 inches or 9.5cm; a pair of buttonhole scissors bearing the mark of a winged cherub on the blade, and “Engelswerk” on the other side, substantial polished metal shank with a design that appears to feature a cross, heart and anchor, approx. 4.1/8 inches or 10.5cm. £60 - £80 251. Antique Scissors: Three early pairs, in increasing sizes, the first two quite simple, the third with a strait shank, with articulated exterior parts to the top of the rings, with fixed chains, which move as the scissors are opened. Sizes approx. 2.1/8 inches or 5.5cm; 2.75 inches or 7cm; 4.75 inches or 12cm (3). £70 - £100

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253 253. A turquoise blue guilloche enamel case which unscrews to reveal miniature one-handled scissors, inside a holder for 3 spools of thread, the top then for use as a thimble, marked 900 for silver on the exterior base; a silver thimble, marked 925 M inside, the exterior with a wide band of pale blue guilloche enamel with two floral sprays in deep pink and green (2). £100 - £200 254. Antique Scissors: two pairs of steel scissors with animal/insect form, the first having a cockerel at the shank, incised to show a beak and eyes, and feathers, approx. 4 inches or 10cm; a second pair formed with a butterfly on the shank. approx. 3.5 inches or 9cm (2). £70 - £100 255. Antique Scissors: the huntsman and his dog, a pair of novelty steel scissors, the shank forming a male figure with his shotgun under his arm and his hunting dog pawing at his knee, marked on both inner blades “99”, approx. 3.5 inches or 9cm. £70 - £100

For details of the charges payable in addition to the final Hammer Price of each lot please refer to paragraphs 5 to 9 of the Buyer’s terms at the back of the catalogue.

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258. A white Mother of pearl sewing étui, in knife box form, with chamfered corners, the hinged lid with void silver metal panel on the exterior lifting to reveal a fitted interior containing a white metal thimble, a metal stiletto, three bodkins, a small pair of scissors (marked IR with crossed swords), a long moulded glass perfume or liquid bottle with glass stopper and white metal cap, and a silk wallet containing mother of pearl handled penknife, etui height approx. 4 inches or 10cm, width 2.3/8 inches or 6cm. £80 - £120 259. Four various antique tatting shuttles, the first a small example in good mottled tortoiseshell, approx. 6.5cm; the second in engraved white metal, initials MFW to a central oval, the back plain, approx. 2.5 inches or 6.5cm; a tortoiseshell example, approx. 4.5 inches or 11cm; finally, a large white metal shuttle, the top with a veneer of white mother of pearl, and a design of scrolling, foliage and birds. approx. 5.25 inches or 13.5cm (4). £120 - £220

256 256. A large and ornate Victorian white metal sewing bird clamp, a blue velvet pin cushion fixed into a moulded cup at the top, a serpent featuring below the bird, approx. 10.25 inches or 26cm. £120 - £220 257. A small Victorian white metal sewing clamp, a red velvet pincushion within a cup to the top, and a clip midway, approx. 6.25 inches or 16cm: a bi-coloured wood spool holder, approx. 6.25 inches or 16cm; a bone bobbin, pierced; a bone barrel-shaped tape measure; a small empty wood box painted black with a cherub playing a flute; three unmarked white metal thimbles and a pair of scissors within a hallmarked plain silver case (F.W in a rectangle, anchor, lion, C) (9). £60 - £100

260. Sewing étuis and a pincushion: A white metal sewing set in a fitted oval wooden case, the exterior lid inlaid with brass, the interior lid lined with cream silk, the base, lined with cream velvet, contains four out of five sewing tools; scissors, a thimble, a plain needle case, and a stiletto, the thimble not original but bearing marks (the previous seller label inside says “silber”); a small mother of pearl egg-shaped étui (slightly green/white, possibly burgau) containing a small pair of stork scissors, lined with royal blue silk, the inside lid lining having a draw thread to gather the silk, presumably a form of small storage pouch for work in progress; a small engraved white metal pincushion with additional raised floral work, formed as a wheel with loop to enable it to hang from a chatelaine or other. Ruby velvet pincushion (3). £70 - £100 261. A French yellow metal sewing set in a simple black leather fitted case, French marks, the exterior lid with a gold line to the edge, the interior lid lined with cream silk and bearing the name, in gold lettering, with a crown, “CJ Vickers Regent Street”, the needle work tools comprise a pair of steel scissors with gold shaft and rings, a thimble with incised band having space for initials, a stiletto and bodkin, and needle case to match, all fitted into royal blue velvet, £150 - £250 purchased for £300.

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264. Four yellow metal 19th c needle cases and two sheaths for scissors, including one French 18ct gold early 19th century, all with various degrees of embossing, from very fine on the bright gold example, to quite low relief on one of the “brass” examples (4). £70 - £100 265. Four ornate antique needle cases, in white metal, one marked 925, being the one fitted with a chain to attach the short lid to the body of the case, three embossed with mainly floral designs, the fourth formed as a slender tube and incised all over with scrolling and flowers (4). £70 - £100 266. Four embossed white metal needle cases, one of Art Nouveau design with iris and a dragonfly, indistinctly marked inside, with side chain to secure the lid to the body; the second quite round with etched scrolling; a third featuring tokens of love and the final example extravagantly shaped and decorated. £70 - £100 262 262. Art Nouveau sewing tools: To include a boxed white and part gold metal stiletto with scrolling in relief, the presentation box in blue leather lined in royal blue velvet with gold embossing to the box, the initials L.V on the lid exterior, stiletto approx. 4.5 inches or 11.5cm; a white metal thimble, with scrolling in relief, marked “1908” to the exterior within a leaf; a white metal needle case with wild flower decoration and another, larger, with very stylised design and a ring for attachment at one end (4). £80 - £120

267. A very elegant and compact French 18ct gold sewing set in polished satin birch/fitted box, most likely 19th century, containing 6 items for use by a refined needlewoman. The box lid is lined with cream moiré silk with the addition of crossbanded ribbon secured with brass pins, the inside, with a substantial brass frame and hinges lined with taupe velvet, fitted with a bodkin, a stiletto, small shaped scissors, a thimble with blank shield for engraving initials, a spool with carved mother of pearl ends, and a shaped needle case, approx. 4.75 inches or 12cm by 3 inches or 8cm. £100 - £200 268. An ornate sewing set in white metal, in fitted orange leather case, with gold detail and the word “Souvenir” on the lid, lined with dark blue velvet, part of the interior lid padded, the other half with a fixed mirror, the set comprising quite substantial scissors, with shaped and floral decorated handles, matching a stiletto, a letter-opener, a bodkin, needle case and crochet hook, a small and probably unmatching thimble, with shield left bare for engraved initials, the interior silver-gilt, also present, on the underside of the box is a red label with relating to a retailer in Vienna “Zu Finden Bei, Jos. Sauerwein & Comp, Sur Stadwein, AM eck de Rognergasse, Wein”, approx. 6.5 inches or 16.5cm by 4 inches or 10cm. £80 - £150

263 263. Pincushions: a red velvet pincushion supported by a cast metal cat seated on a cushion, marked underneath with a “C” and “Made in England”, the item in two parts, the bottom of the cushion being a pin tray, approx. 1.5/8 inches diameter or 4cm and the same in height; a small pincushion featuring a duck, marked on the base “silver”, approx. 1.25 inches or 3cm; an upright bird or hatching chick with blue velvet pincushion, no marks noted, approx. 1.25 inches or 3cm tall; a small hare, marked “silver2 on the base, approx. 1.25 inches or 3cm tall; a pig, marked 925 in one side, 0.75 inches or 2cm tall, and finally another cat, or kitten, with brown pincushion in a cast metal plaited basket, no marks noted, approx. 1.75 inches or 4cm by 1 inch or 2.5cm tall (6). £150 - £250

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269. A fine 19th century white metal sewing set which has passed through several generations of the same family, contained in a fitted presentation box, itself a marvellous item, the set comprises eleven decorative items for the dedicated needlewoman set into blue velvet, a needle case designed as a sword in its scabbard and fitted with a chatelaine clip, scissors, a thimble, a bodkin, a small knife or letter-opener, a stiletto, a second needle case, a cut glass bottle with metal top and small two mother of pearl thread winders, with mirrors underneath their fittings, the set being protected by a silk cover with orange chenille piping, the inside lid is padded in cream silk and bears a gold inscription in German with the date of June 1st 1890 and the name Fanny Nussbaumer, (see online for the family history ), the wood exterior lid of the box is painted with almost a medieval scene of rural life, with a maid attending to hens in the foreground and various villagers going around their work in the grounds of a large estate. £200 - £400

For details of the charges payable in addition to the final Hammer Price of each lot please refer to paragraphs 5 to 9 of the Buyer’s terms at the back of the catalogue.

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270 270. Embroidered European ladies’ caps and bonnets or traditional head coverings, and costume decoration: To include a triangular forehead cover, ; a cotton cap with distinctive black silk embroidery in the shape of a cap back, a section of white embroidery in between the dark panels*; a cream cotton cap for an adult embroidered in red and blue with floral sides and linear panel to the top and front border, gathered to the back with a circle of crochet inserted; another triangular cotton panel appliqued with a linen panel this time in brown silk and a section in cream, the left side and the long edge are hemmed, the right side raw; an incomplete cutwork panel with white embroidery, selected motifs outlined in red or pink silk thread (Tyrolean?); and a short jacket in a coarse red fabric (6).

Unusual composition. See page 109, of “Embroidery” by Mary Gostelow, showing a similar mix of whitework and dark threads, Austrian Whitework. £150 - £250 271. Eight knitted or crochet baby bonnets or caps, 19th and 20th century, of different sizes and designs, and a single knitted sock, the bonnets including a small and very fine example worked in diagonal bands, and circular crown; one similar but larger, and one in raised crochet with a star in the crown, and three more with star crowns and one without, the sock, European, is knitted in cream and turquoise blue with various front patterns and what appears to be a deliberate hole for ventilation on the top of the foot (9). £120 - £220 273 272. A very early whitework bonnet or cap, stiffened, and with pleated detail to the rear, formed in three sections, all edges bound, with the addition of a plain section that reaches down into the neck, the main body of work appears to be cord or Italian quilting, with defined raised foliate designs, as the bonnet is unlined the work can be seen from the inside, the plain section at the rear includes a draw cord, the bobbin lace frill stiffened, the edge of the cap just behind it being bound with plain fabric, to fit a young adult. £300 - £500

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273. A very early bonnet or cap worked in beige, in three sections, all edges bound, European, perhaps German in design style, unlined, the stitches visible inside, blending cream and a dull brown to give definition to the design of flowers and leaves, hand stitched throughout, the front edge bound, the neck panel with wider binding through which is threaded a draw cord, to fit a young adult. £200 - £400

For details of the charges payable in addition to the final Hammer Price of each lot please refer to paragraphs 5 to 9 of the Buyer’s terms at the back of the catalogue.

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274. A very early whitework bonnet or cap, formed in 3 sections, all edges bound, the cap back slightly elongated into the neck and a plain section underneath houses a draw cord, the cord or Italian quilting designed with elaborate bows, tendrils and small flowers, unlined, the work clearly visible, to fit a small adult. £300 - £500

276. Two ornate European 19th century caps, adult size, probably traditional costume and worn for celebrations, the first, constructed in two panels of a gold lamé fabric, is overlaid with gold metal bobbin lace to the front, and embroidered with an elaborate floral spray to each side, using coiled gold thread and padding under the flowers, gold sequins and red stones to highlight the stems and the centres of the flowers, bound in mustard braid, lined in cream linen Height approx. 9 inches or 23cm by 5.5 inches or 14cm each side (28cm); a similar cap, adult size, worked in a similar fashion with a slightly narrower lace and a wider and more elaborate floral spray to each side, having the addition of blue stones in larger sizes edged with white bobbin lace, this with a further outer edge of white lawn, yellow braid ties attached to the front corners, lined in mustard silk (2). £150 - £250

275 275. A very ornate 19th century ladies cap, French or German, of rigid form, probably to sit at the back of the head, extremely complex work using metal strips on gold, coiled gold threads, braid with a chain design, small silver balls, gold sequins overlaid with gold metal thread, the design radiates from the centre back almost like the feathers in a peacock’s tail, above and below which rather more complex intertwined bands are ruched to form the shape, a wire is attached at each side front presumably to secure the cap to the head, inside, a lining of pale pink cotton and an edging of bobbin lace, centrally ribbon ties and stiffening, approx. 7 inches or 18cm tall by 5 inches or 13cm wide; an ornate 19th century cap back, or top panel, circular but formed in quarters, seen from the verso, designed with flowers and leaves, coloured sequins and stones in the centres, the panel then overlaid with gold braid made from metal strips, covering the seams, approx. 6 inches or 15cm by 7 inches or 18cm (2). £100 - £150

277. Two 19th century beaded and knitted items, comprising a single cream knitted fingerless mitten with design to the main body, a panel of colourful, floral beadwork to the upper hand and to the tip of the thumb; a very long panel knitted with alternate plain and decorative panels, the broadest band incorporating tiny dark green beads to form a strip of leaves, the outer edge with the addition of a scalloped panel, which is only attached to the first 29 inches or 74cm of one inner edge, the item measures approx.153 inches or 389cm by 3.25 inches or 8cm, lined with cream cotton, perhaps for furnishing use where only one end hangs loose? Or a belt for traditional costume? £40 - £60 278. Point de Beauvais: A small quantity of accessories incorporating fine Point de Beauvais French tambour embroidery, to include a 20th century evening bag with metal frame, the bag body worked with tiny white beads, surrounding a circle of pink embroidered roses and a central vase of flowers, the back mostly beaded, save for a single rose and leaves, cream synthetic lining, front opening, lacking handle; two vibrantly coloured embroideries on black gauze, flowers and ribbons, probably for cuffs, unused; a panel of black velvet embroidered with a swag of roses and leaves, hung from a blue ribbon, with a small floral spray and two leaf motifs to the side; a rectangular cream silk panel lightly appliquéd with Point de Beauvais floral motifs in pastel shades, of different designs and sizes, part of a French retailers’ paper label attached, and two more unattached motifs, one with label stating “RS & CIE” and an item number and space for price (7). £60 - £100

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279. !9th and 29th century evening bags and accessories, to include an unusual early 20th century diamanté evening bag with white metal frame and chain, the front incorporating a 19th c woven beadwork panel in gold and silver metal beads, featuring a lily in lilac beads, this panel bordered in diamanté, the back entirely in diamanté; a striking royal blue and silver sequin evening bag, 1920’s, with shaped white metal frame and basic chain, lined in black silk; a small coloured mesh evening purse with a gold and light green enamel shaped frame and gold metal chain, no maker’s mark noted but of the 1920’s Whiting and Davis style, fringed, the mesh in colours of orange, yellow, and shades of green; a black 1940/1960 beaded bag by Moritz Madler ( inscribed on the handbag mirror), a high class German luggage Co which opened in 1850; a French taupe velvet and silk clutch purse embroidered in a sunburst design in silver metal beads; a small manufacturer’s beaded and sequin net sample on card; a 1940’s wool tie-belt embroidered in pastels with sprays of flowers; a small fabric coloured trinket box embroidered in pink and green; a beaded belt buckle on silver lame ground, and an Edwardian white net stole with silk fringed ends, a deep border at either end embroidered in pastels with flowers, smaller sprigs filling the remaining ground (10). £100 - £150 280. Four 1920’s beaded bags with beadwork fringes and three with decorative plastic frames, often considered Bakelite, some cream and in imitation of ivory, all with press-button top opening, three with beaded straps, the fourth with pierced plastic chain-effect, the dark navy example marked inside as “Made in France” (4). £120 - £220

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282. Four 19th century miser’s or stocking purses, one particularly finely designed and worked, with gold embossed metal sliders and bell-shaped end ornament, all four distinctive in different ways (4). £80 - £120 283. Five 19th century coin purses demonstrating different forms and techniques, to include examples with beadwork, two formed as jugs, and two en diable with top cross bar frames and chains, the square example using metal threads and embroidered in silk (5). £100 - £150 284. Four large 19th century miser’s or stocking purses featuring different designs and techniques, one of beadwork woven in stripes, a second with applied beadwork, a third worked in chevrons with metal beads to each end, and the fourth very finely worked with open work in scallops and incorporating metal threads (4). £100 - £200 285. Four 19th century woven beadwork purses, to include a circular purse with embossed silver metal frame, an example entitled “souvenir”, a rectangular example with unusual and quite heavy steel bar across the bottom, glazed cotton interior, button/loop fastening flap, red leather godets to each side, a calling card or advertising for “Demoiselle Justine Schmidt” inside, and a larger silver cut steel example with strap threaded through the top, cerise flowers on a gold background (4). £90 - £120

281. Four decorative beaded evening bags from the 1930’s/1950’s, two in clutch form with strap at the rear, press-stud fasteners, two with gold metal frames and chain handles, the frames lifting upon opening, silk satin lined with “Made in France” labels, the bronze example with faux cameos set in the frame and catch, the cream bag with raised pearls and enamel detail (4). £80 - £120

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For details of the charges payable in addition to the final Hammer Price of each lot please refer to paragraphs 5 to 9 of the Buyer’s terms at the back of the catalogue.

291. 19th century evening bags with metal frames: to include a striking example in chestnut velvet beaded both sides in silver metal, in the form of a bird with long beak and outspread wings and tail, the sun ray design at the bottom in diamanté, the relatively simple silver metal frame studded with diamanté, chain strap; a grey velvet bag embroidered both sides with silver spangles and cut steel fringed with metal beads, the ornate frame with cut steel to the front, and a silver metal chain; a colourful beaded bag with pierced metal frame and beaded strap; a silver woven bead bag with red flowers, the frame in gold metal decorated with white mother of pearl, enamel flowers and green stones to the clasp, gold metal chain; and a small beaded bag with embossed gold metal frame, simple metal chain, the beadwork in vibrant colours against a mustard background, bicoloured fringing (5). £100 - £150

286 286. Two mesh purses with embossed gold metal frames and chain handles, fringed, in the style of Whiting and Davis, one stamped inside “Mandalian MFG. CD” also an American company of the twenties and thirties, both multi-coloured enamelled examples (2). £150 - £250 287. Quantity of 20th century evening bags, to include two elaborately beaded in cut steel, with decorated metal frames and metal chain handles; one with shaped heavy frame and chain; one in lemon and white beads with draw-top; two more with metal frames, one of these with birds, four with typical 1920’s plastic frames and fully beaded bodies, and finally a colourful example with long beaded strap and concealed metal frame (11). £80 - £120 288. 1920’s/Art Deco beaded and sequin bags, to include a black and silver geometrically beaded clutch, a small money purse, a Belgian sequinned bag with strap, and three examples with densely beaded bodies and plastic frames (6). £40 - £70 289. 1900’s to the 30’s, six evening bags with a floral theme, the largest with opaque beaded background and featuring shaded pink roses and elaborately embossed gold metal frame; a metal framed bag with chain, beaded with sunflowers and lined in grey suede; a French cream beaded bag with beaded/metal frame, thin chain, the beading offsetting coloured silk embroidered flowers; a floral embroidered bag of similar size; a beaded bag in pastels with a gold pierced metal frame, domed, and slender chain; and a small lilac beaded bag, the gold metal frame an early 19th c example (6). £80 - £120 290. Whiting and Davis, USA: a gold armour mesh bag with good pierced gold metal frame and gold metal chain, marked to the frame interior “Whiting and Davis 2897, Made in USA” and having a woven Whiting and Davis label sewn to the lining; a larger Whiting and Davis black evening bag with black and gold mesh fringing, the brushed metal frame marked as above, model number 2814 and with a fabric label sewn to the lining, long chain; and a gold mesh bag with gold chain fringing, the expanding gateway frame mounted with a domed cherry-red stone in the lid, no label or annotations for make noted (3). £60 - £90

292 292. An embroidered wall hanging, Chinese, late 19th/early 20th century, embroidered on black silk, featuring an elderly gentleman in long robe with moustache and long beard, carrying a young child, both with detailed faces, some parts in relief, embroidered signature to the top left, the backing in cream, approx.

30 inches by 63 inches or 77 by 163cm. £60 - £90 293. A Japanese silk wall hanging, a dark purple ground complementing shades of eau de nil silk embroidery, featuring a waterside scene with fowl amongst reeds, taking to the water, and small birds perched amongst water Iris 19th century, the hanging bordered with gold metal braid and extended to all sides to make a bedcover, the overall size approx. 60 inches by 75 inches or 152 by 190cm. £100 - £200

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294. Boutis De Provence for a Marriage, Early 19th century: An intricately quilted white linen bedcover featuring the technique of inserting stuffing between stitched layers through small openings made by separating the threads of the backing fabric, seen also on traditional Provençal costume and on much smaller coverlets for babies, the design features hearts and flowers, the main body of the quilt is hand stitched in a regular waffle design, the borders, approximately 17 inches or 43cm deep, feature diamonds with lines of stitching around, and at regular intervals a more elaborate motif with a heart at the centre, some meandering floral tendrils are worked to the outer edge. 83 inches or 210cm by 90 inches or 229cm. £300 - £600 295. 19th century Berlin woolwork and beadwork examples and original patterns: To include two completed footstool covers worked on canvas in purple wool, the floral design and border design formed from a mix of black, white, and various shades of grey beading, highlighted with a scattering of gold and coloured metal beads, diameter approx. 10 inches or 25.5cm; a shaped chair seat cover and a single arm panel worked tightly in black wool, a floral design of roses and auriculas surrounded by leaves in various colours of wool, approximately 18.25 inches or 46.5cm wide by 16.5 inches or 42cm deep; a two part set of covers for a French prie dieu chair, the background of purple wool, the floral design, of arum lilies and roses in shades of white, grey, brown and a dash of gold beads, supported by extravagant leaves in various shades of green, the back panel, with “T” shape, is approx. 9 inches or 23cm across (17.5 inches at the T) and 26.5 inches or 67cm deep, the shaped seat cover is approx. 17 inches or 43cmcm wide at the front edge and 16.25 inches or 41.5cm deep; four mid-19th century Berlin woolwork patterns on card by different German printers include a slipper pattern marked for Rudolph Grafshoff and bearing the embossed stamps at the bottom, a small floral pattern by T P Devrient, a small bag design with paisley boteh by A. Todt and a link and chain design by T H Wilh Meister for A. Todt; six paper pattern designs issued by the Young Ladies’ Journal for cushions, embroidery, a fez, knitting, a hand banner screen, and a booklet for bead bag designs also showing a beading loom. (17). £100 - £200 296. 19th century French Petit Point panels and one beadwork panel, to include; A small cream panel for a chair arm, minutely stitched with a design of a small dog seated on an ornate stool bearing flags featuring gold stars, American? a butterfly hovers above on a small floral spray, approx. 5.25 inches or 13.5 cm by 7.25 inches or 18cm; a pair of petit point pictures contained inside original paper borders with floral decoration, the first featuring a young girl resting in the countryside having gathered flowers ,the second depicts a courting couple in regional dress, each panel approx. 4 inches or 10 cm wide by 6 inches or 15.5cm; and a charming beadwork picture on canvas with a flower basket and contents worked by Marie M in tiny, colourful beads (sablé size), at the bottom the date 1843 worked in cut steel beads, and above a banner stating that the picture is a gift to her dear Mother. (4). £80 - £120

297 297. A large 18th century darning sampler, probably Dutch, dated 1774, framed and glazed, the linen ground features seven darns in cross formation and one to the centre right which shows a corner turn, each darn is worked in two colours of silk thread, and the examples incorporate a variety of designs, from herringbone to diamonds, top centre, a floral garland encloses the letters, in capitals, EVP and OUT, beneath which the date is formed as “AN1774NO”, above the garland, two cherubs hold a crown, approx. 17.5 inches or 44.5cm wide and 18 inches or 45cm deep (within the frame). £250 - £350

298 298. A very early 19th century darning sampler dated 1801, and bearing the initials of EID, from the same home as the previous lot, this time featuring twelve darns worked in silk in cross formation, in several cases showing more proficient use of design and colour, particularly to the left side, worked on linen, the sampler is also embroidered in silk to border all four sides, framed and glazed, approx. 17.25 inches or 44cm wide and 16.5 inches or 42cm deep, within the frame. £200 - £300

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For details of the charges payable in addition to the final Hammer Price of each lot please refer to paragraphs 5 to 9 of the Buyer’s terms at the back of the catalogue.

299. Ten fashion and embroidery magazines, French, Fevrier to Novembre 1913, the “Journal des Ouvrages de Dames”, all include the free tracing paper patterns for women to use for home embroidery, and one includes the delivery label, stamped, from the printer to the French subscriber, full of contemporary adverts for products such as lace, beauty, plus fashion articles and photos; a DMC book on sewing, an encyclopaedia “Ouvrages de Dames”; finally, copies in French of “Marie Claire”, two from 1938, six from 1939, one from 1940 plus one copy of “Marie France” from 1948 (21). £40 - £70 300. 1930’s: “Embroidery, the Journal of the Embroiderers’ Guild”, 15 copies ranging from December 1934 to September 1939, issued to members of the Guild on a monthly basis, contains articles and images of European and World embroidery (September 1935 covers Chinese embroidery), from rural work to fine ecclesiastic embroidery. £30 - £60 301. A selection of 19th and 20th century household lace and linen, to include Normandy lace, filet, needle lace, and a tape lace panel featuring various figures and animals, including a stag, a man with a horse, an elephant, a soldier with sword standing under a stone portal, and a part design repeat (approx. 84 inches or 214xm by 10 inches or 25cm); 22 lace mats or doilies, in needle lace, drawn thread, cutwork, various sizes; whitework fragments; filet mats, one with a needle lace cherub to the centre; embroidered net mats, several with butterflies; a Belgian bobbin lace circular mat; an oval lawn mat edged with Valenciennes; eleven Normandy lace mats, and one of Tenerife or Nanduti ( a quantity). £50 - £80 302. A square pieced and embroidered Kashmir Indian wool shawl, with small shaped cream wool centre, large botehs from the centre to the corners, worked mainly in red hues with green, yellow and turquoise, epaulettes at two sides, approx. 72 inches or 183cm by 70inches or 178cm; an embroidered cotton cover or hanging, the longer sides with selvedge, the remaining sides raw, central hand-sewn seam, the flowerhead centre with the addition of shisha mirror work, approx. 32.5 inches or 83cm by 63 inches or 116cm (2). £80 - £150 303. A 19th century Chinese silk embroidered Rank Badge, or Mandarin Square, particularly detailed with several auspicious symbols surrounding the central bird, perhaps the second Civil rank Golden Pheasant, fish in the sea below, the red sun defined with metal threads, the bird and lower border in shades of gold with couched threads, the whole bordered with a woven silk with regular design, framed, approx.

13.5 inches or 34cm by 13 inches or 33cm within the frame £100 - £200 304. A deep terracotta Chinese silk panel, embroidered both sides in couched gold metal threads, with auspicious symbols and large beasts, the latter with embroidered silk eyes and tails embroidered in green metal threads. Fitted currently with hooks at the top, bordered in gold braid, approx. 18.5 inches by 19 inches or 47 by 48.5cm. £80 - £120 305. A pair of seldom seen, uncut and unused Chinese embroidered slipper panels, the silk ground in Imperial yellow, the exquisite embroidery in bright shades of turquoise and pink, lilac and salmon, in a floral design from toe to heel £60 - £100

306. Two 20th century Chinese silk floral embroideries, one worked on cream silk in autumn shades, embroidered with Chinese characters and a trade stamp to one side of the flowers, approx. 22.5 inches or 57cm by 18 inches or 46cm, a second panel, worked in brighter pinks, lilac, cream and shades of green, worked on cream gauze (2). £30 - £60 307. A quantity of patterns designs produced for the publication “Home Art work”, and published by John Hayward, Shoe Lane London, examples from 1899 to 1906, including designs by Walter Crane, M Bouley, Aymer Vallance and many more for embroidery, leather and wood work, fifty-plus examples (50+). £50 - £80 308. Four cream linen towels, continental, with stylized woven designs, the first with a damask centre featuring birds, the blue border designs with cranes and flowers, fringed, and embroidered initials, length approx.; a second towel, similar, with woven design in red, of stylized flowers, the damask being floral, length approx. 45 inches or 114cm; a third towel, woven with fish and reeds, plain centre but embroidered initials, length approx. 39 inches or 99cm, and a further towel with embroidered flowers to each end, coloured threads incorporated into the macramé and fringing, length approx.45 inches or 114cm, and wider than the others at 27 inches or 68.5cm, all unused (4). £100 - £150 309. A white net/lace curtain, approx. 40 inches by 120 inches or 102cm by 305, a cutwork panel with birds, a bag of middle weight edging and insertion lace and filet, and a quantity of embroidered or silk cases for a trousseau or for nightwear (quantity). £30 - £50 310. Ottoman embroideries: fine 18th and 19th century examples of embroidered towel or trouser ends, including an unusual design of pyramid-type structures, embroidered in metal thread, the inner designs undulating, alternating with flowering bushes, the foliage in silk threads, the trunk and branches in metal, a formal foliate border runs along the bottom, approx. 18.5 inches or 47cm by 4.75 inches or 12cm; a single panel worked in two shades of gold metal, in the form of a flowering bush with leaves scattered below, approx. 11.5 inches or 29cm by 7.25 inches or 18cm; a good pair of matching towel ends, each with a pattern repeat of stylised flowers mainly worked in metal but with some additions in coloured silks, five motifs per panel, approx. 17 inches or 43cm by 5.5 inches or 14cm; and a fine white cotton panel with a seam near one embroidered end, probably cut down, embroidered mainly in green and cream in coloured silks with metal threads for stems of the flowering motifs, approx. 22 inches or 56cm by 20.5 inches by 52cm (5).£90 - £150 311. Ottoman embroidery: to include a substantial doublesided embroidered bag, both sides virtually alike, with a central flowering bush or tree, the main form worked in metal threads, the flowers and leaves in silks of sea green, turquoise, pink and ginger, more foliate design at the bottom, lined in tangerine silk satin, fringed at the bottom with a macramé header, the brown ribbon serving as a draw cord with the same fringing, approx. 10.5 inches or 27cm by 21.25 inches or 54cm to include fringing and plain top; a very decorative panel, probably a trouser end, bordered on three sides with gold metal, raw edge to the top, the design, of undulating vertical lines, with a crescent at the centre top of each section, encloses flowers in coloured silks and some additional gold metal stitching, approx.

13.5 inches or34.5cm by 15.75 inches or 40cm to include the plain top section (2). £100 - £200

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312. Ottoman embroidery: to include a single towel end, worked unusually with three formal buildings, perhaps churches, with pinnacles on each, the outlines stitched in pastel silks, the internal decoration of silver metal strips, much as the work seen in azute shawls; a silk and metalwork panel, four slender horizonal panels stitched together, two facing one way, the remainder another, the design of trees and flowering bushes, the bushes mainly worked in pastel silks, with formal cypress trees, and other trees formed in metal, the panel edged on all sides with a scalloped gold silk braid, approx. 29 inches or 74cm by 7.5 inches or 19cm; and a towel, possibly 20th century, in a silk fabric with regular woven lines, each end worked with a meandering branch in metal thread from which flowers in pastel silks are sprouting, an insertion of bobbin lace in cream and pink joining two similar panels up the centre, and each end finished with scalloped cream bobbin lace, approx. 30 inches or76cm by 35.5 inches or 88cm (3). £60 - £100 313. Ottoman embroidery: Two heavier weight Turkish towels, 19th/20th century, the first with muted embroidery comprising metal threads for structure and form and coloured silks for leaves and foliage, drawn threads at each end approx. 31 inches or79cm by 30.5 inches or 77cm; a second towel, embroidered mainly in coloured silks, of turquoise, yellow and red with four stylised columns to each end, some sections having the addition of gold metal thread for detail, lower border in blue, yellow and green, above drawn thread, approx. 18 inches or 46cm by 64 inches or 163cm; a third towel, a lighter weight, is embroidered at each end in silks, pale blue, cream and red, supplemented with metal threads, two matching designs of flowering plants in pots and a central flowerhead and blossom spray in between, approx. 19 inches or 48cm by 60 inches or 53cm; finally, a lightweight towel with deep border design, formed of five horizontal lines of single blooms, worked in coloured silks, in dark and pale blue, and a very pale pink, shades of green and a touch of metal thread for foliage, a slim border underlining the flowers at both ends, single sided embroidery, approx. 17 inches or 43cm by 58.5 inches or149cm (4). £100 - £150 314. Ottoman embroidery: to include a lightweight cream cotton cover, square, perhaps a headscarf, embroidered in strong cerise and lilac with details worked in gold metal thread, a leaf motif to each corner, and a regular border in the same vein, with the addition of pale green and yellow, on all four sides, a tiny silk border in cerise, on the lines of Bebilla, attached all around the outside edge, approx. 32.5 inches or 83cm square; a small towel, three silk embroidered floral motifs to each end, in shades of blue, cream and red, a little metal thread incorporated, and metal thread for the narrow edging border, Approx. 17.5 inches or 45cm by 29 inches or 74cm; and a third item, a fine and ornately embroidered towel, each end with four motifs in the same vein, tightly and competently embroidered in a mix of coloured silks and silver metal, strong shades of blue complement strong salmon, pale green and cream filling in lesser design areas, at the bottom, a border with undulating silver metal line, leaves and flowers also running up the sides, finished with a narrow silk lace edge, approx. 21.25 inches or54cm by 48 inches or 123cm (3). £120 - £200 315. Ottoman Embroidery: A fine and early linen Çevre or headscarf, probably late 18th century, all four sides elaborately embroidered in coloured silks and metal strips and threads, with tiny, complex stitching and a great variety of design, featuring stylised flowering plants and trees, the silk threads in shades of royal blue, pale blue, pink, sea green, green, teal, cerise, brown and yellow, the border embroidery is approx. 4 inches or 10cm deep, the very edge of the scarf finished with metal strips and loops which stand proud of the fabric, approx. 38 inches or 96.5cm square. £200 - £400

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318

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For details of the charges payable in addition to the final Hammer Price of each lot please refer to paragraphs 5 to 9 of the Buyer’s terms at the back of the catalogue.

316. Ottoman Embroidery: A linen Çevre or headscarf, likely 19th century, embroidered to all four sides in silk thread and silver metal strips, in shades of lilac, pale salmon, grey, yellow, pink and very pale blue, additional embroidery to each corner takes the design further into the scarf, mainly floral, the design using alma stitch, in salmon, undulating all around the scarf, border embroidery approx. 3 inches or 8cm, the outside edge finished in bobbin lace using silver metal thread, approx. 35.5 inches or 90cm square. £100 - £150 317. Ottoman Embroidery: A large cover Çevre or headscarf, the coloured silk and silver metal strip embroidery located at intervals within a simple metal strip border, late 19th century/ early 20th century, worked with large flower sprays to each corner, the foliage mainly in metal, a central flower head in pink is supplemented by smaller flowers and leaves in pale blue, royal blue, shades of pink, yellow and pale green, a smaller and less elaborate floral motif embroidered at the centre of each side, approx. 44 inches or 112cm by 42 inches or 107cm; a part panel or napkin embroidered to one corner, 20th century, the design with a central flower edged with gold thread, the silk thread used with various intricate infilling stitches being a strong buttermilk colour, with the addition of small gold sequins, a bead in the centre of each one, approx. 19.5 inches or 49.5cm by 19 inches or 48cm (2). £70 - £100

320. Eastern Mediterranean embroideries, comprising a small cotton cover with stylised designs worked in silk thread with a central rectangular motif, an exterior border with two designs and an outer border with larger motifs, hemmed and cross stitched, approx. 15 inches or 38cm square; a band of orange silk, perhaps a belt or insertion panel, embroidered in colourful silks in lime green, ruby red, vivid pink and purple, a wide band featuring birds, and outer bands contained in purple borders with flowers, seamed in 4 places, approx. 95.5 inches or 242cm by 3 1/8 inches or 8cm; a vibrant, square panel of red cotton, backed in a loosely woven beige fabric, embroidered through the layers in silk threads, featuring yellow, cream, cerise, a mossy green, all motifs with outlined edges, concentric bands, all of which are filled with glowers and birds, possibly peacocks, draw the eye inwards to the central square which features more such birds and foliage, many-petalled cream flowers are a strong feature and ones on the outer borders include embroidered centres with tiny mirror panels, two sides bound in navy cotton, approx. 23 inches or 58.5cm square; three fragments from one item, two of which are clearly end panels, the other a top section, bound with small silk tassels, all sections feature stylised birds, tightly embroidered on a heavy cream fabric in a rust silk, along with various decorative patterns and stylised bands, approx.5.5 inches or 14cm by 10 inches or 25.5cm, and 8.5 inches or 21.5cm by 7.5 inches or 19cm, and 5 inches or 13cm square, Crete? Finally, a panel cut down from a larger piece, furnishing weight linen, embroidered in ruby silk with magnificent winged birds, flaming torches and stylised beasts, possibly Cretan, approx. 22 inches or 56cm by 7 inches or 18cm (7). £120 - £180

318. A finely embroidered rectangular cover, probably Persian, early 19th century, worked on a light turquoise ground, and edged with colourful printed cotton, attached by hand, a 2 inch or 5cm inner embroidered border with paisley boteh within undulating black, red and white lines worked to all four sides, colours including turquoise, red, green and pale lilac, next in towards the centre, a border of small cones in red and lilac, the very centre being plain, but all corners embroidered with boteh and at one end only there is a wide V shape worked with cones in a different design, possibly of directional significance relating to use? Backed with a red cotton printed with cream stars, approx. 19 inches or 48cm by 14.5 inches or 37cm. £300 - £500 319. Greek/Greek Island embroidery: possibly Sporades, silk embroidery featuring figures, the designs seemingly drawn freehand on the cloth; a finely worked linen cover with central design showing dancers in a circle, hands joined, naive animals of slightly humorous form at their feet, in the next band, colourful flowers and leaves, working to the outside band which further features larger flowers, sprays of leaves, and slightly mythical, birdlike creatures, sporadic simple stitch binding in different coloured silks, approx.36.5 inches or 93cm by 37 inches or 94cm; a second, smaller cover in similar vein with figures and birds, possible a cushion cover, approx.

20.5 inches or 52cm by 30 inches or 51cm (2). £300 - £500

321 321. Fine early Italian/Eastern Mediterranean embroidered borders and fragments, one marked as from Sicily, others perhaps Assisi. Comprising two finely embroidered linen panels, tight and concise workmanship in mid blue silk thread, quite classical in design, the long sides edged with scalloped needle lace, each length with one hemmed end and one raw, both approx. 26 inches or 64cm by 8 inches or 12.5cm excluding the lace; a figural fragment, mythological beast, or character, formed from the background, in raspberry silk, left void for the form with some light detail to create features, approx. 2.5 inches or 6.5cm by 4.25 inches or 11cm; Another longer length in cream silk with classical design, approx. 17.25 inches or 43.5cm; a long length of cream linen embroidered in ruby silk with a structured, classical design, bearing the seller’s label attributing the work to c 1680, having previously belonged to the Royal School of Needlework, also bearing an old label from the school attributing the embroidery to Sicily and priced at £3.10.00, approx. 34 inches or 87cm by 3.75 inches or 9.5cm; a small modern cuff worked with birds in blue thread (6). £200 - £400

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322. A rarity: a 19th century needlework sampler from Northern Morocco perhaps Azemmour. Worked in silk thread on fine ecru linen, the side to the right appears to be selvedge, to the left raw, the top edge hemmed, approx.23.5 inches or 60cm by 27 inches or 69cm, possibly cut from a larger piece, many different motifs, some quite geometric, others foliate, in quite haphazard placing, worked in rose pink, turquoise, ruby red, deep lilac, cream, yellow, and deep blue. For similar work see page 183 of “Broderies Marocaines” by Isabelle Denamur showing an example held in the V&A, London and also page 56 of “Textile of the Islamic World” by John Gillow. £100 - £200

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For details of the charges payable in addition to the final Hammer Price of each lot please refer to paragraphs 5 to 9 of the Buyer’s terms at the back of the catalogue.

323. Moroccan embroideries, perhaps 19th century Fes, and additional embroidered fragments: To include a good rectangular panel with deep border, worked in ginger silk thread, the top, one side and bottom edges over sewn, bearing a stock label “980”, possibly a towel or cloth, approx.18.5 inches or 47cm by 25.5 inches or 65cm; nine panels of varying size with fine and tight silk embroidery in different geometric designs; and five much more coarsely embroidered pieces, one worked in brown and yellow on cream wool another in lilac and black threads bearing an old typed label proclaiming it to be an “old dress front, Turkey” and two further fragments (15). £150 - £250

324. Two sumptuous bags or purses, 18th/19th century, the first Ottoman, in dark cerise velvet, attractively shaped, and embroidered in silver metal thread, silk cord binds the edges, the lining is part striped velvet and part turquoise cotton, finished with a tassel to one side and a bobble to the other, approx. 6 inches or 15.5cm by 3.75 inches or 9.5cm; a French woven silk bag or pouch with draw thread, formed of four shield-shaped segments, the edges and top bound, with a light ginger background, each segment woven in gold with a flower and foliage, the draw cord fitted with two quite bulbous gold tassels, approx.

4.75 inches or 12cm by 3 inches or 7.5cm (2). £200 - £400 325. An Ottoman silk velvet and leather man’s note case, in red, with compartments and exterior flap fastening with a tiny hook linking two metal flowers, the front heavily embroidered in gilt thread and gold sequins, leaving very little of the dark red/brown velvet unadorned, in contrast the back is embroidered much more simply, the edges bound in metal thread, internally, the largest compartment is lined in pale pink linen, a red leather shaped flap covers a smaller section and a further red flap covers a section of coin size, approx. 4 inches or 10cm by 2.5 inches or 6.5cm. £400 - £600

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326. Two vintage embroidered bags of Indian origin, the first with gold metal thread embroidery on ruby velvet to the front, a central design of a peacock with magnificent display of tail feathers, the “eyes” with red stone centres, the head in blue silk thread, surrounded by varied embroidered flowers and other forms, some with green stones at their centres, a twisted gold and ruby cord forming the shoulder strap and binds the side edges, finished with a ruby silk tassel; an earlier black silk satin and velvet bag, one side edged in gold braid decorated with metal threads and the upper border more elaborate with coiled metal threads forming intricate flowers and leaves, centrally, an intricate embroidered panel using coiled metal threads and various coloured stones or gold sequins filling floral centres, the back panel incorporates clear and green stones, with a central floral spray, the gold braid edge uses clear stones for the centres of the flowers, gold woven ribbon inside the bag, gold handle of rope form (2). £40 - £60

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328. Two Turkish Ottoman bags, the first 1850’s to 70’s when the fashion prevailed for shoes and accessories formed from woven tapestry kilim-style, the bag or pouch, with draw-string top, has pastel colours of raspberry, pale green and beige to the front, designed with a central floral feature, the back, in similar fashion but bolder colours of plum, black and beige, features an Iris surrounded by smaller petalled bloom, the twisted draw cord ends with bobbles in metal thread and an additional ornate silk tassel hangs from one side, lined with cream silk; a shaped, embroidered bag with dark green velvet ground and silver thread, quite complex motifs, a floral design with some work in relief and coloured stones to the flower centres, similar designs to back and front, the single silver metal thread tassel at the bottom matching those on the draw threads near the top, the sides joined with silver braid, lined in dark green silk (2). £80 - £120

327 327. Two ottoman embroidered bags or pouches, the first very fine, with several embroidered features in silver thread tambour stitch, calligraphy within a central panel, a silver metal thread draw string beneath another embroidered band, edged throughout with scalloped silver metal thread lace/braid, fringed at the bottom, lined in cream cotton, Approx. 8.5 inches or 21.5cm by 4.75 inches or 12cm including fringing ; a later red silk embroidered bag with central tughra enclosed in a circular border and surrounded by flowers and leaves in pastel shades, an upper panel appliqued with gold lace, all edges bound with delicate, scalloped, gold metal thread lace, and thin gold braid serves as a draw thread, lined in dark ruby red satin (2). £70 - £100

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329. A heavy 19th Moroccan silk embroidery, probably Rabat, with stylised designs of circles and squares and several concentric borders, leaving the very centre fabric plain, one central join, strong colours, being dark cerise, and ginger, some highlights in dark turquoise, and sparce silk tassels to all sides, approx. 29 inches or 74cm square; a very fine, shaped silk embroidery, tomato-red worked on cream, and pointed at one end, with a succession of borders, enclosing delicate and varied designs, with three central and one small area embroidered with regular, identical motifs, approx. 27.75 inches or 70.5cm into the point by 9.25 inches or 23.5cm (2). £100 - £200

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For details of the charges payable in addition to the final Hammer Price of each lot please refer to paragraphs 5 to 9 of the Buyer’s terms at the back of the catalogue.

330. North African embroideries, the first panel possibly from Azemmur, worked in dark red with the design formed by voiding to show the heavy linen ground, featuring stylised vases and formal borders, note the change in stitch technique in the middle of each design, approx. 25.25 inches or 64cm by 9.5 inches or 24cm; next, a finer panel in cerise/ruby silk, the background being tightly worked and the design produced in voided areas, approx. 22.5 inches or 57cm by 6.25 inches or 16cm; a finely embroidered panel in shades of salmon pink silk, a finished piece but one side only having a corner motif and vertical border, approx. 44 inches or 1.14cm by 13.5 inches or 34cm; a small fragment embroidered in lilac; a towel end or trouser leg panel worked in fine salmon silk thread, motifs to both corners, approx. 17.75 inches or 45cm by 6.5 inches or 16.5cm; a similar panel in sage green silk, approx. 23.5 inches or 60cm by 8 inches or 20cm; and a complete towel or leg panel worked in shades of peppermint and darker green silk, approx. 20.5 inches or 52cm by 19.75 inches or 50cm (7). £200 - £400 331. World Textiles, Miscellaneous, to include a panel with five pattern repeats, finely worked on red cloth backed with beige, embroidered in strong green, yellow, orange, approx. 29 inches or 74cm; a pair of trouser ends, worked on beige in red, with finer detail using lilac, green and yellow silks, each approx. 12.5 inches or 21 cm by 11 inches or 28cm; a fragment from an embroidered Kashmir shawl featuring dolphins or other fish, approx. 10 inches or 25cm by 5.5 inches or 14cm; a section from an embroidered stole, the cream background fabric fine approx. 32.5 inches or 83cm by 16.5 inches or 42cm; an embroidered stole, the stylised embroidery in orange, yellow, lilac, green, red, each end with a row of plants or trees, approx.

55 inches by 140cm by 17 inches or 43cm, and a small panel or towel, fringed at both ends, the cream ground woven with bands of regular designs in red, blue, black orange and lilac, a gold thread running through to separate the designs, approx. 16 inches or 41 cm by 14 inches or 12cm (7). £70 - £100

332. Asia/Laos: Miscellaneous woven and embroidered textiles to include a small cover or mat, woven in silk on black cotton, the colours in shades of lilac cerise, yellow and taupe, approx. 24 inches or 61cm by 15.5 inches or 39cm; a long beige silk shawl or stole, woven in colourful bands, some designs figurative, handhemmed and silk fringes, approx. 90 inches or 229cm by 14.5 inches or 37cm; a similar stole or shawl, this time in mainly ruby and black; a quantity of mats and small panels embroidered in silks on black cotton, and a set of three panels, one possibly a bodice panel with cut-out for the neck, and two longer panels perhaps for sleeves (9). £60 - £100 333. Miscellaneous European textiles, to include: an unusual cloth worked entirely in tape form, needle not bobbin, in four horizontal strips and forming a lattice design, within which are crowns in blue, and rampant lions alternating with a flower and leaves, the edges finished with an orange and blue braid, and teal fringing, an additional decoration of wooden beads hangs above the fringing, approx.29 inches or 74cm by 18 inches or 46cm; an attractive cloth edged with Russian lace, a border embroidered with red hearts enclosing a central patchwork section of embroidered squares and similar lace to the outer border, approx. 22 inches or 56cm by 27 inches or 68.5cm; two embroidered silk panels with a join, probably Turkish, a bright floral design in the centre of each, and decorative lace and silk work bands; a cream linen panel for a towel of trouser end, the scalloped end worked with needle lace (4). £70 - £100

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3. TERMS OF SALE The seller acknowledges that lots are sold subject to the stipulations of these Conditions in their entirety and on the Terms of Consignment.

4. DESCRIPTIONS AND CONDITION OF LOTS Every effort is made to ensure the accuracy of statements relating to authorship, descriptions, origin, date, age, provenance and condition of lots. Statements made orally or in the catalogue are opinions given after careful consideration and research. Prospective buyers are given ample opportunity to view lots before any sale. When bidding, buyers acknowledge that they are fully satisfied as to the description and condition of the lot.

5. ATTRIBUTION OF PICTURES (a) If the forename(s) (or asterisks where not known) and surname of the artist are given, this indicates that in the opinion of Kinghams the picture is a work by the named artist. (b) If the initials of the forename(s) and the surname of the artist are given, this indicates that in the opinion of Kinghams the picture is a work of the period of the named artist and may be wholly or in part his work. (c) If the surname of the artist is given, this indicates that in the opinion of Kinghams the picture is a work of the same school of the named artist, or by one of his followers, or in his style and of uncertain date. (d) The term ‘Bears signature’ indicates that in the opinion of Kinghams this is not the signature of the artist. (e) All other terms are self-explanatory.

6. FORGERIES Notwithstanding Condition 4, any lot which proves to be a deliberate forgery may be returned to us by you within 21 days of the auction provided it is in the same condition as when bought, and is accompanied by particulars identifying it from the relevant catalogue description and a written statement of defects. If we are satisfied from the evidence provided that the lot is a deliberate forgery we shall refund the money paid by you for the lot including any buyer’s premium.

7. THIRD PARTY LIABILITY Every person on Kinghams premises before, during or after a sale shall be deemed to be there at their own risk and shall have no claim against Kinghams in respect of any injury they may sustain or any accident which may occur.

8. DISPUTES Any dispute not covered in these terms of business will be settled at the sole discretion of Kinghams.

9. GENERAL We shall have the right at our discretion, to refuse admission to our premises or attendance at our auctions by any person. a) Any right to compensation for losses liabilities and expenses incurred in respect of and as a result of any breach of the Conditions and any exclusions provided by them shall be available to the seller and/or the auctioneer as appropriate.

b) Such rights and exclusions shall extend to and be deemed to be for the benefit of employees and agents of the seller and/or the auctioneer who may themselves enforce them.

Any notice to any buyer, seller, bidder or viewer may be given by first class mail or email in which case it shall be deemed to have been received by the addressee 48 hours after posting.

Special terms may be used in catalogue descriptions of particular classes of terms in which case the descriptions must be interpreted in accordance with any glossary appearing at the commencement of the catalogue.

Any indulgence extended to bidders, buyers or sellers by us notwithstanding the strict terms of the Conditions or of the Terms of Consignment shall affect the position at the relevant time only and in respect of that particular concession only; in all other respects these Conditions shall be construed as having full force and effect.

English law applies to the interpretation of these Conditions.

TERMS OF CONSIGNMENT FOR SELLERS 1. INTERPRETATION In these Terms the words ‘you’, ‘yours’, etc. refer to the Seller and if the consignment of goods to us is made by an agent we assume that the Seller has authorised the consignment and that the consignor has the Seller’s authority to contract. Similarly the words ‘we’, ‘us’ etc. refer to Kinghams Auctioneers Ltd. 2. WARRANTY The Seller warrants that possession in the lots can be transferred to the Buyer with good and marketable title, free from any third party right and encumbrances, claims or potential claims. The Seller has provided all information concerning the items ownership, condition and provenance, attribution, authenticity, import or export history and of any concerns expressed by third parties concerning the same.

3. COMMISSION Commission is charged to sellers at a flat rate of 15% plus VAT on each lot. There is a lotting charge of £2.50 plus VAT per lot.

4. REMOVAL COSTS Items for sale must be consigned to the saleroom by and stated deadline and at your expense. We may be able to assist you with this process but any liability incurred to a carrier for haulage charges is solely your responsibility.

5. LOSS AND DAMAGE OF GOODS a) Loss and Damage Warranty – Kinghams is not authorised by the FSA to provide insurance to its clients and does not do so. However, Kinghams for its own protection, assumes liability for property consigned to it at the lower pre-sale estimate until the hammer falls. To justify accepting liability, Kinghams makes a charge of 1.5% of the hammer price plus VAT. The liability assumed by Kinghams shall be limited to the lower pre-sale estimate or the hammer price if the lot is sold. b) If the owner of the goods consigned instructs us in writing not to take such action, the goods then remain entirely at the owners risk unless and until the property in them passes to the Buyer or they are collected by or on behalf of the owner, and clause 5(a) is inapplicable.

6. ILLUSTRATIONS The cost of any illustrations is borne by you. If we consider that the lot should be illustrated your permission will be asked first. The copyright in respect of such illustrations shall be the property of us, the auctioneers, as is the text of the catalogue.

7. MINIMUM BIDS AND OUR DISCRETION Goods will normally be offered subject to a reserve agreed between us before the sale in accordance with clause 8. We may sell lots below the reserve provided if we can account to you for the same sale proceeds as you would have received had the reserve been the hammer price. If you specifically give us a “discretion” we may accept a bid of up to 10% below the formal reserve.

8. RESERVES a) You are entitled to place prior to the auction a reserve on any lot consigned, being the minimum hammer price at which that lot may be sold.

Reserves must be reasonable and we may decline to offer goods which in our opinion would be subject to unreasonably high reserves {in which case goods carry the storage (Condition 17) and loss damage warranty (Condition 5(a) charges as stipulated in these Terms of Consignment}. b) A reserve once set cannot be changed except with our consent. c) Where a reserve has been placed only we may bid on your behalf and only up to the reserve (if any) and you may in no circumstances bid personally. d) Reserves are not usually accepted for lots expected to realise below £50.

9. ELECTRICAL ITEMS These are subject to detailed statutory safety controls. Where such items are accepted for sale you accept responsibility for the cost of testing by external contractors. Goods not certified as safe by an electrician (unless antiques) will not be accepted for sale. They must be removed at your expense on your being notified. We reserve the right to dispose of unsafe goods as refuse, at your expense.

10. SOFT FURNISHINGS The sale of soft furnishings is strictly regulated by statute law in the interests of fire safety. Goods found to infringe safety regulations will not be offered and must be removed at your expense. We reserve the right to dispose of unsafe goods as refuse, at your expense.The rights of disposal referred to in clauses 9 and 10 are subject to the provisions of The Torts (Interference with Goods) Act 1977, Schedule 1, a copy of which is available for inspection upon request.

11. DESCRIPTIONS Please assist us with accurate information as to the provenance etc. of goods where this is relevant. There is strict liability for the accuracy of descriptions under modern consumer legislation and in some circumstances responsibility lies with sellers if inaccuracies occur. We will assume that you have approved the catalogue description of your lots unless informed to the contrary. Where we are obliged to return the price to the buyer when the lot is a deliberate forgery under Condition 4 of the Conditions of Sale and we have accounted to you for the proceeds of sale you agree to reimburse us the sale proceeds.

12. UNSOLD ITEMS If an item is unsold it may at our discretion be re-offered at a future sale.

Where in our opinion an item is unsaleable you must collect such items from the saleroom promptly on being so informed. Otherwise, storage charges may be incurred.

13. WITHDRAWN AND BOUGHT IN ITEMS These are liable to incur charges on being bought in or withdrawn after being catalogued.

14. CONDITIONS OF SALE You agree that all goods will be sold subject to our Conditions of Sale. In particular you undertake that you have the right to sell the goods either as owner or agent for the owner. You undertake to compensate us and any buyer or third party for all losses, liabilities and expenses incurred in respect of and as a result of any breach of this undertaking.

15. AUTHORITY TO DEDUCT COMMISSION AND EXPENSES AND RETAIN PREMIUM AND INTEREST You authorise us to deduct commission at the stated rate and all expenses incurred from your account from the hammer price and consent to our right to retain beneficially the premium paid by the buyer in accordance with our Conditions of Sale and any interest earned on the sale proceeds until the date of settlement. You authorise us at our discretion to negotiate a sale by private treaty not later than the close of business 48 hours after the day of sale in the case of lots unsold at auction, in which case the same charges will be payable as if such lots had been sold at auction and so far as appropriate these Terms apply.

17. STORAGE We disclaim all liability for goods delivered to our saleroom without sufficient sale instructions and reserve the right to make storage charges.

18. SETTLEMENT Subject to funds having cleared in our account we aim to pay you no later than four weeks following the sale. If the buyer has not paid for the goods no settlement will be made but we will take your instructions in the light of our Conditions of Sale. You authorise any sums owed by you to us on other transactions to be deducted from the sale proceeds. Please note the liability to reimburse the proceeds of sale to us as under the circumstances provided for in Condition 11 above and you should therefore bear this in mind before parting with the proceeds of sale.

INFORMATION FOR BUYERS 1. INTRODUCTION The following notes are intended to assist buyers particularly those who may be inexperienced or new to our saleroom. All sales are conducted in accordance with our Conditions of Sale. Our staff will be happy to help you with anything you do not fully understand.

2. AGENCY As auctioneers we usually contract as agents for the seller whose identity, for reasons of confidentiality, is not normally disclosed. Accordingly, if you buy your primary contract is with the seller.

3. THE BUYER The highest bidder acknowledged as such by the auctioneer will be the buyer. If any dispute arises, the auctioneer has absolute discretion to settle the matter. The auctioneer rules the bidding and bids cannot be retracted.

The auctioneer reserves the right to refuse any bid.

The successful bidder, whether bidding for himself or for a third party, is entirely responsible for paying for the lots they have bought in accordance with Kinghams’s Conditions of Sale and Business. The auctioneer reserves the right to bid on behalf of the sellers for any lot and to withdraw, consolidate or divide any lot or lots.

4. REGISTRATION Unless registered already on a bidding platform, it is essential that all prospective buyers register with us, giving their full name, address, contact telephone number(s) and email address. First time buyers will be required to provide proof of identity (i.e. driving licence/passport), a valid debit or credit card and a copy of a utility bill confirming their name and address. Upon receipt of the above a paddle will be issued, which is only valid for the current sale. The paddle may be used to indicate your bids to the Auctioneer during the sale. If successful, the bidder must ensure that their number can be seen by the Auctioneer and that it is their number that is called out. Should there be any doubts as to price or buyer, please draw the Auctioneer’s attention to it immediately.

5. BUYER’S PREMIUM - COMMISSION CHARGES There is a buyer’s premium of 23 per cent plus VAT on the hammer price of each lot up to and including £500,000. The buyer’s premium is 18% plus VAT on the hammer price of each lot on the excess of £500,001 up to and including £1,000,000. The buyer’s premium is 15% plus VAT on the hammer price of each lot on the excess of £1,000,001.

6. VALUE ADDED TAX Lots on which the buyer may have to pay VAT on the ‘hammer price’ are indicated in the catalogue with the following symbol *. The buyer must pay this VAT at the rates that apply on the day of the auction in addition to the buyer’s premium and VAT thereon.

7. AUCTIONEERS MARGIN SCHEME This scheme allows auctioneers to sell items without VAT on the hammer price. The buyer then pays an amount equivalent to VAT. This amount cannot be refunded and is not shown separately on the invoice.

8. PAYMENT Buyers must pay in full before items can be removed from the premises (please see “payment methods” below).

Invoices will be issued from the day of the sale. Buyers must pay their invoice in full within 24 hours and advise when they will be collecting their item(s). Any invoices which remain unpaid after seven days will incur interest at 5% above the base rate, charged from the date of the sale. If buyers are unknown to us, we cannot hand over purchases unless we have adequate references or payment is cleared.

Payment Methods We accept payment by: Cash – up to £9,000 (subject to money laundering regulations).

Cheques – bankers draft, cashiers cheque, personal cheques and travellers cheques are all accepted.

Credit cards – Visa or Mastercard (American Express or Diners Club not accepted).

Debit cards – Visa, Delta, Switch, Connect Please note that we are unable to accept any card payments where the cardholder is not present.

13. DATA PROTECTION Kinghams will use information provided by its clients or obtained by Kinghams relating to its clients for the provision of auction services or as required by law. Kinghams may need to record telephone conversations for security or legal reasons or as necessary to provide a higher quality of service. Clients agree that Kinghams may use sensitive information that they supply to Kinghams. Unless permitted by law, Kinghams will not otherwise process sensitive personal data without express consent. By agreeing to the Conditions of Sale and Business, clients agree to the processing of their personal information.

Bank transfer to: HSBC Bank, Bridge St, Evesham WR11 4RU Account no.: 51655345 Account name: Kinghams Auctioneers Ltd Sort code: 40-20-27 IBAN: GB91MIDL40202751655345 SWIFTBIC: MIDLGB22 Please note that a fee of £15 will be added for international bank payment.

14. STORAGE AND COLLECTION Please note all items after the auction will be removed to store.

Arrangements for collection can be made with the office.

9. LIVE INTERNET BIDDING Live online auctions are in conjunction with the-saleroom.com, invaluable.com and easyliveauction.com We ask that you register for the sale a minimum of 24 hours before the auction.

When you have registered, you can watch the auction in real time; simply click the bid button to place a bid.

If your bid is successful we will notify you after the sale for payment.

Charges will be made for internet bidding dependent on the auction platform. See their terms and conditions for details.

10. TRANSFER OF RISK Each lot is the buyer’s sole responsibility from the fall of the hammer.

11. COMMISSION BIDS If instructed, Kinghams will execute bids and advise prospective buyers.

This service is free.

Buyers who cannot come to a sale may leave their bid with our staff after/during viewing, or make their bid in advance by telephone or email (enquiries@kinghamsauctioneers.com ). Such bids are placed at the buyer’s own risk.

Bids must be made at least one hour before the sale starts, but we advise buyers to make bids at the earliest possible opportunity. When making bids, buyers must provide: Their full name Address Email address Contact telephone numbers The number of the lot they wish to buy Their maximum bid amount – excluding commission which will be added to the invoice afterwards Buyers must state what their maximum bid would be. We cannot accept an instruction to ‘buy’ or unlimited bid.

We will ensure that lots are bought as cheaply as possible depending on the bids made and other reserves. If identical bids are placed, they will be dealt with on a “first come first served” basis.

12. TELEPHONE BIDS Lines for telephone bidding should be booked 24 hours before the auction.

Lines are booked on a “first come first served basis.” Full name, address and telephone numbers will be required together with proof of identity and address.

Bank and credit/debit card details are also necessary to secure the line.

15. ELECTRICAL GOODS AND SOFT FURNISHINGS These are sold as ‘antiques’ only and if bought for use must be checked over for compliance with safety regulations.

16. EXPORT OF GOODS Buyers intending to export goods should check whether an export licence is required and whether there is any specific prohibition on importing goods of that character because e.g. they may contain prohibited materials such as ivory. Ask us if you need help.

17. PACKING AND DESPATCH We offer a packing and despatch service for smaller lots. We also use national and local carriers. Further details can be obtained from our office.

18. DROIT DE SUITE ROYALTY CHARGES A work of art by a living artist, or those who have died within the last 70 years, which costs more than the UK sterling equivalent of €1,000 will incur a royalty charge. We pass this payment onto the Design and Artists Copyright Society (DACS), and do not charge a handling fee. Buyers can calculate royalty charges on the DACS website.

Items marked with the † symbol in the catalogue will potentially incur royalty payments.

We use the euro to UK sterling exchange rate which applies on the day of the sale. It is the buyer’s responsibility to check the relevant exchange rate.

The actual qualifying threshold is calculated by the Artist’s Resale Right Service Hub based on the European Central Bank reference rate published at 2.15pm on the day of the sale, and can be found on the DACS website.

The royalty charge for pictures which achieve a hammer price of more than the UK sterling equivalent of €1,000, but less that the UK sterling equivalent of €50,000 is 4%. On works of art that achieve a hammer price of more than the UK sterling equivalent of €50,000 a sliding scale of royalty charges applies. For a complete list of the royalty charges and threshold levels please download more information from the DACS website.

The royalty charge is added to invoices, and must be paid before purchases are removed. VAT is not paid on royalty charges.

19. CITES LICENSE - IMPORTANT NOTICE RELATING TO SPORTING AND NATURAL HISTORY Clients intending to import/export any item derived from natural history specimens into/from a non-European country should first check for any Import/Export and possession restrictions prior to bidding/selling.

Certain species (λ) are also subject to CITES regulations when exporting/ importing these items out of the EU. CITES regulations are given on www.ukcites.gov.uk or maybe obtained from Animal Health, Wildlife Licensing and Registration Service, Zone 1/17, Temple Quay House, 2 The Square, Bristol BS1 6EB. Those species that are covered by the US Endangered Species Act (USESA) or The Migratory Bird Treaty Act (MBTA): potential US bidders should check with USF&W (US Fish and Wildlife Services) for trade/possession restrictions in the US prior to bidding.

CONTACT US KINGHAMS AUCTIONEERS CALL ON 01608 695695 OR EMAIL enquiries@kinghamsauctioneers.com WWW.KINGHAMSAUCTIONEERS.COM