Madison Magazine: Fall 2024 – Eat Like a Local

Eat

Treat your taste buds to Rocktown this fall

FA L L 2 0 2 4

G L O B A L F L AVO R S

SWEET SPOTLIG HT

We all scream for ice cream

LIKE A LOCAL DINING GUIDE

Discover downtown Harrisonburg’s decadent desserts, from irresistible brownie sundaes to creamy gelato and unique scoops.

BELLA GELATO 49 W. Water St. Harrisonburg, VA

Experience the best of both coffee and gelato with an affogato: handcrafted gelato made from local milk, topped with a house-made waffle chip, and drizzled with espresso made from locally roasted beans.

Tongue Thai-ed TASTE OF THAI

917 S. High St., Harrisonburg, VA

Open since 1999, this award-winning restaurant draws a crowd. Its bestseller, pad see ew, features wide, stir-fried rice noodles with Chinese broccoli, egg and an addictive sweet black soy sauce. Taste of Thai sources many veggies locally.

FRESH BITES IN THE ’BURG

Timeless brews, fresh beginnings Two JMU alumni transformed an iconic downtown space into a cafe featuring their locally roasted coffee, a tantalizing menu and vibrant evening events.

BROAD PORCH COFFEE occupies a space many alumni remember fondly. Whether it was the beloved Artful Dodger, Habana Cafe, or Dukes Bar and Grill, the building has a rich history. Now, it’s the third location for Jill McMullan (’15), Phil Dunteman (’12) and their business partners, who completed a two-year renovation before opening in late February.

The bright, open cafe features a row of new windows and a skylight, allowing the sun to illuminate the reclaimed ash bar, tables and long bench. Locals and students gather here to study, work and enjoy Broad Porch’s eclectic, yet accessible drink and food offerings.

The menu, developed by McMullan in collaboration with kitchen manager Maria Cooper, is built on seasonal produce and global flavors. One favorite is the gaucho toast, inspired by Argentinian chef Francis Mallmann. Broad Porch’s version features sourdough toast piled high with buttery cardamom sweet-potato puree, marinated steak tips, pickled red onions and chimichurri.

“It sounds heavy, but it’s not. The pickled red onions and chimichurri are super bright and For more on fresh,” Cooper assures. For a twist, you can enjoy this creation in loaded tot form during the evenings. the local food Open until 10 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays, Broad Porch hosts a variety of events, from seasonal dinners scene, scan and and game nights to jazz sessions and neurodivergent speed dating. Whether you’re stopping by for earlydownload the Madison app. morning coffee or enjoying late-night activities, Broad Porch Coffee offers a welcoming space for all.

MM-F24-FoodInsertion-081924.indd 1

THAI CAFE

182 Neff Ave., Ste. W4, Harrisonburg, VA

Harrisonburg’s first Thai restaurant is nestled in a strip mall showcasing the Friendly City’s diverse food scene.

Among a Peruvian chicken joint, sushi restaurant and halal market, Thai Cafe serves Thai and Lao food. Its bestseller is vermicelli noodles over shredded lettuce and carrots, served with lime, crushed peanuts and a tangy Thai dressing.

THAI FLAVOR

Shrimp is the perfect topping for vermicelli noodles with zesty lime, savory peanuts and tangy Thai dressing.

51 Kenmore St., Harrisonburg, VA

For those days when you’re relaxing at your home, rental or residence hall, Thai Flavor has you covered. From the same owners as Thai Cafe, this takeout and delivery-only spot’s shrimp spring rolls with zesty Thai peanut sauce are a must.

THAI HARRISONBURG RESTAURANT

865 Port Republic Road, Harrisonburg, VA

Harrisonburg’s newest Thai spot retains the charm of the former Irish pub it now occupies, with stone fireplaces and a polished bar. Ordering is a breeze, with photos to accompany more than 100 menu items. A popular dish is the panang curry, a golden peanut curry sauce with bell pepper, basil and lime leaves.

BRANCH’S ICE CREAM TRUCK 54 S. Main St. Harrisonburg, VA

Branch’s, a family and Blackowned ice-cream truck, serves the popular Bark Off the Tree sundae: vanilla or chocolate soft serve topped with a homemade brownie, peanut butter, chocolate sauce, peanuts, and whipped cream.

KLINE’S

58 E. Wolfe St. Harrisonburg, VA 2425 S. Main St. Harrisonburg, VA 10020 Spotswood Trail McGaheysville, VA

Savor fresh, high-quality ice cream made daily with an old-fashioned freeze technique, a tradition Kline’s has perfected since 1943. New flavors are churned out every Wednesday.

THAI PHANOM

1318 Hillside Ave., Harrisonburg, VA

Whether you’re hitting the books or savoring time with friends and family, Broad Porch Coffee Company offers the energy and ambiance to make it memorable.

Cool down with a refreshing Thai iced tea, the perfect balance of creamy sweetened condensed milk and bold black tea.

Within walking distance of JMU’s Lake Area Residence Halls and across the street from Newman Lake, this restaurant’s bestseller is tom kha soup, a creamy coconut soup infused with galangal, lemongrass and lime leaves. Try it with chicken, vegetables or shrimp.

CONTACT MADISON: Email madisonmag@jmu.edu, or call 540-568-2664.

In “Eat Like a Local,” a triannual guide produced by Madison magazine and published by James Madison University, Sarah Golibart Gorman (’15, ’16M) introduces students, alumni and their families to Harrisonburg’s vibrant food scene.

Download the app at www.jmu.edu/ madisonmagazine/madison-app.shtml to explore more local flavors.

Jim Heffernan (‘96,’17M), editor Sarah Golibart Gorman (’15, ’16M), writer friendlycityfoodie.substack.com

Bill Thompson, creative director Rachel Holderman, photographer Brittany Miller, photographer www.shenandoahimagery.com

8/20/24 9:19 AM

RISE & DINE

FA M I LY FAVO R I T E S

L O C A L L I B AT I O N S

Pony up for family fun venue known for its diverse events and welcoming atmosphere. The Golden Pony features family-style dining with large pizzas, such as the popular Frida Kale-o, topped with crispy fried kale, cheddar, tangy marinara, black beans, red onion and chipotle crema.

The tree-shaded patio is the perfect space to enjoy happy-hour specials and artful cocktails, like the espresso martini featuring Beach Vodka distilled by Paul’s sister, Stephanie Somers (’03), and the locally roasted Merge Coffee Company espresso is another highlight.

The Pony’s spacious booths and tables can seat the whole family, including a rotating cast of four pinball machines with themes — PAUL SOMERS (’04), owner like Metallica, The Walking Dead and The Wizard of Oz to entertain the kids — and kids at heart.

Come back for evening events, including Honky Tonk Nights, metal shows and DJ dance parties.

Don’t miss karaoke every Sunday. “At the Pony, our goal is to make things as accessible, fun and interesting as possible,” Paul said.

From bar manager to owner, Paul Somers (’04) brings family-friendly dining and vibrant live music to the heart of downtown Harrisonburg.

“If we don’t have each other, we don’t have anything,” S.E. Hinton wrote in her classic novel, The Outsiders. The Golden Pony, named after one of the book’s characters, embodies this quote through its founding and atmosphere.

Thanks to community crowdfunding, Paul transformed a beloved Ethiopian restaurant into a happening restaurant and live music

Brunch bliss awaits For a weekend brunch at Magpie, lining up before 9 a.m. is a must — there are no reservations at this beautifully renovated 1950s tire-service station. The line is worth the wait.

According to executive chef Rachel FitzGerald, brunch is “a great way to feel like you’re celebrating life.” FitzGerald’s philosophy shines through with a menu that changes weekly, driven by the seasons and her creative impulses.

While you can always count on favorites like savory Southern poutine, herby green poutine and cinnamon swirl French toast, other dishes, like biscuit sandwiches, vegetarian frittatas and sweet waffles, change

with what’s seasonally available, ensuring there’s always something new to relish.

The Turkish eggs are a musttry: whipped feta with black pepper, marinated cucumber salad, toasted walnuts, lots of dill, Aleppo pepper and chili butter with perfectly cooked eggs, all served with sourdough from the in-house bakery. Enjoy it how FitzGerald intended: “I love to be interactive with my food. I want to take bread and dunk it through everything, and this dish lets you do just that.”

Worth the wait: Magpie, a full-service breakfast and lunch diner, offers a delightful outdoor dining experience and exceptional seasonal flavors.

From a cozy speakeasy to chic wine bars and seasonal cocktails, these local favorites offer a variety of drinks to suit every palate.

Rocktown cocktails JACK’S HIDEAWAY

92 S. Main St. Harrisonburg, VA 22801 Knock on the red-lit door and transport back to a Prohibition-era speakeasy.

More than 100 bourbon, rye and scotch whiskies await, alongside craft cocktails and a full bar in a cozy, rustic setting.

“Our goal is to make things as accessible, fun and interesting as possible.”

ROOTSTOCK WINE BAR

86 W. Gay St. Harrisonburg, VA 22802 Nestled in a renovated 100-year-old carriage house, Rootstock Wine Bar offers Virginia wines and global selections. Enjoy wine by the glass, bottle, on draft or in cans, with monthly tastings and social events.

NIGHTCAP

BY MERGE

Big pizzas and even bigger smiles: Family dining at The Golden Pony is always a treat.

Foodie fun

425 N. Main St. Harrisonburg, VA 22802

Meet the chef RYAN ZALE is executive chef and

co-owner of the Local Chop & Grill House, a local farm-to-table brand with locations in Harrisonburg, Luray and, soon, Staunton.

Where did you grow up?

Northeast Ohio, right on Lake Erie.

Favorite food memory from childhood?

My grandfather would keep salt with him in the garden. When he dug up the radishes, he would sprinkle salt on them, and we’d eat them together.

First food job?

When I was 15 or 16, I worked at a diner on the weekends slinging eggs and cooking for the church rush.

Why Harrisonburg?

My main reason for coming to Virginia was my job at The Inn at Little Washington. One weekend I visited Harrisonburg; four months later, I ended up moving here.

What’s your Chop House journey been like?

I came in as executive chef from 2009 to 2016. Then, I left to work elsewhere. In 2022, I got the call to come back. The position that I’m in now is an absolute gift and a blessing. I wouldn’t want it any other way.

What’s next?

This fall, we’re opening a new location in Staunton called the Chop House Tavern. We’ll serve fun, local comfort food with a speakeasy feel: short ribs, beef cheeks, two-day prime rib, whole roasted fish, whole fried fish.

Favorite Harrisonburg eats?

La Taurina Grill, The Ridge Room or BoBo Café.

From coffee roastery to chic wine bar, Nightcap offers wine-based cocktails, craft beers, fusion foods and desserts. Sip a Hot Honey Margarita featuring Quinquina Blanc, a fortified wine with flavors of orange peel and cardamom.

Hidden gem

Drink recipe

LOCAL CHOP & GRILL HOUSE “ T H E FA R M E R ’ S DAU G H T E R ”

“Brunch is a great way to feel like you’re celebrating life.”

Enjoy wood-fired pizza and games galore at RUBY’S ARCADE. Challenge friends and family to duckpin bowling, Dance Dance Revolution, pingpong and pool, or classics like darts, Skee-Ball and Pac-Man.

Fuel up your car and your cravings at this family-owned MEXI DELI inside an Exxon station. Indulge in flavorful queso birria tacos, zesty tamales verdes, hearty gorditas and fresh ceviche.

• 1.5 oz. vodka • 0.5 oz. Cointreau • 0.5 oz. lemon juice • 1 oz. cranberry syrup (with orange and rosemary) Serve in a coupe glass with a half rim of orange sugar (orange zest and sugar), and garnish with a sprig of rosemary.

To make the cranberry syrup:

Instructions:

• 3 cups cranberries • 1 cup sugar • 1 cup water • Zest of one orange • One cinnamon stick • Two to three sprigs of rosemary • 2 oz. lemon juice

Combine all ingredients except for lemon juice into a pan and bring to a simmer. Simmer for five minutes, pull off heat and let cool. Strain twice and add lemon juice.

— RACHEL FITZGERALD, executive chef

MM-F24-FoodInsertion-081924.indd 2

8/20/24 9:20 AM