Woven | Chapter Two

W W O V E N

Over 100 years of industry knowledge

JA M E S D U N LO P T E X T I LE S. C O M

JAMES DUNLOP / FREEMANS

DRA PERY

Drapery

MOKUM / OCEAN

Soft window furnishings provide practical benefits such as energy savings through insulation (control of heat and cold), noise reduction, privacy and light control. With an enormous array of design, colour and texture the homeowner has more scope than ever to add individual personality to their curtains, complete the look and feel of a room and enhance the value of their greatest financial asset – their home.

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We discuss window furnishing manufacturing techniques and styles, design and patternmatching considerations, outline common quality issues (with recommended solutions) and cover common terminology used for drapery manufacturing.

We also illustrate how to measure and cost a standard drapery treatment, we detail drapery-specific care and maintenance and give you advice for after-sales service issues.

Contents: 1

Caring for your window furnishings

2

Drapery movement

3

Energy saving properties

4

Design solutions

5

Colour scheme considerations

6

Curtain headings

7

Considerations for velvet drapery

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Drapery textile terms unraveled

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Top treatments

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Tracks

11

Track finishing details

12

Soft blinds

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Hard window treatment

14

How to measure window furnishings

15

Costing a drapery job

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IInstallation notes

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Safety / Privacy

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Caring for your window furnishings

Caring for your window furnishings

Care of furnishings should be explained at the time of sale and also given in writing. No guarantee can be given against fading, shrinkage or mildew however using a quality lining will reduce ultraviolet exposure.

Vacuuming regularly to remove dust will considerably extend the lifespan of your window furnishings.

Care of furnishings should be explained at the time of sale and also given in writing. No guarantee can be given against fading, shrinkage or mildew however using a quality lining will reduce ultraviolet exposure.

Vacuuming regularly to remove dust will considerably extend the lifespan of your window furnishings.

FADING: There are a number of variables which influence fading: the amount of direct sunlight the fabric will be subjected to, the size of the window and indirect sunlight variables such as glare from buildings, water or stainless steel benches. These variables need to be considered when advising clients and should be noted on the quote sheet or final invoice to provide a record of this advice.

JAMES DUNLOP / TOULON

The purpose of this chapter is to give you an overview of the design and manufacturing of drapery textiles and window furnishings to assist you with creating successful window treatments that meet and exceed your client’s expectations.

JAMES DUNLOP / ASCEND

n the preceding General Textiles Unraveled chapter we covered fabric stability, fibre characteristics, humidity, sunlight and UV degradation.

We also outlined the importance of lining to increase the lifespan of your textiles and improve insulation. An important part of the specification process is ensuring that your drapery textiles, fibre construction and lining selections are appropriate for your client’s environmental conditions.

The UV factor in Australasia is well known and fading of all fabrics is inevitable.

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Identifying sun and light control requirements:

STACK BACK

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Ask if there are any people living in the house who sleep during daylight hours or who wake-up as soon as it becomes light.

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Check the exposure to find out if the window is facing north, east, south or west.

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Houses nestled amongst trees will tend to be darker so any treatments need to allow light in.

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Note that winter months, when the sun is tracking lower, will increase UV exposure in rooms, thereby increasing degradation issues.

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Take into consideration reflection off white/light coloured walls.

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Take into consideration the part of the country you are in.

How to minimise fading •

Blackout lining might be required for people who need to sleep during the day.

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For darker rooms, consider the importance of a stack-back treatment to allow window areas to be uncovered.

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Stacking curtains back off the window as much as possible helps to protect them against fading, but remember the leading edges will always fade, especially if sheer curtains are not being used.

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Sun-filters, voiles and sheers are probably the biggest addon sale in the area of window treatments, including a second curtain on a two-track system.

Use of sheers or sunscreen blinds will protect the fabric to a certain extent.

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Ultraviolet protective window glazing could be considered.

PEGASUS / ZOOLOGY

TIP: Leading edges of curtains are susceptible to fading. If fading occurs, a cost effective solution is to swap the curtains so that the exposed leading edge becomes positioned against the wall and vice versa.

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Swapping out faded fabric caused by ultraviolet radiation is a huge cost to the trade and one that can not be sustained. A joint effort between wholesaler and retailer to provide your client with this information is vital. With the client understanding the responsibility of their decision, the industry can put effort into window treatments that are sustainable, whilst also taking into account our responsibility to protect other soft furnishings and flooring for the consumer.

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TIP: A solution for protection against the fading of leading edges is to add a trim. This will not only protect the leading edges of your curtain but also add design aesthetic whilst being easily replaceable.

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•

Close curtains at nightfall over winter.

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Look into available HRV systems which will reduce condensation. Aluminium joinery is also available with ventilation screens and condensation drains to help eliminate moisture.

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Use an extractor fan or dehumidifier if necessary.

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Use brackets that extend the curtain approximately 100mm away from the face of the window to avoid contact with the glass and condensation.

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Use longer curtain tracks to allow curtains to be pulled completely off the window to avoid dampness.

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Ventilate the house year round.

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Wipe up any condensation that occurs.

How to treat Mildew: •

MILDEW: Mildew can grow on windows, wallpaper and furnishings. The heating of a room against the outside condenses moisture, therefore mildew is especially problematic in homes where moisture cannot escape easily.

This is becoming more common in well-insulated homes. Concrete floors, snug-fitting aluminium

window joinery, the absence of open fireplaces and houses remaining closed all day means the moisture from cooking, showering and gas heating has no way of escaping the house. Condensation, particularly with blackout lining (high insulation), can form on the lining not just the window.

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•

If mildew does start to appear on curtains, advise clients to use an apparel brush initially, then vacuum the fabric and ensure the curtains are not damp.

If brushing does not remove the mildew stain, they may need to use a diluted bleach solution (one part household bleach to five parts water). We recommend to always test a small area first to ensure colour fastness is not affected.

Drapery movement Drapery treatments which have been manufactured using textiles with a high percentage of natural fibre can rise or fall in humid conditions. Below are two recommended solutions to accommodate possible movement.

PUDDLING YOUR CURTAINS: Puddling is when you manufacture your curtains longer than required to ‘puddle” on the floor. A good rule of thumb is 100mm on the floor over a 2000mm drop. This creates a more relaxed look, particularly suiting heavy linens, which allows the drapery to rise or fall slightly without alteration.

MANUFACTURING A GENEROUS HEM: A further solution in humid conditions, where the client is committed to using a natural product, is to manufacture your curtains with a generous hem to allow alteration in the rare situation that severe movement occurs. This can be achieved with two return folds, also referred to as a “double hem”, within the hem to allow you to lengthen the curtains by releasing the first fold and retaining the hem.

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IMAGE / CAPTION

MOKUM / TRANQUILITY

How to avoid mildew:

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Energy saving properties

According to BRANZ, 42% to 45% of heat, in houses insulated to pre-2007 requirements, is lost through windows. Even homes with double glazing lose approximately 21%-31% of heat through their windows.

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Energy-saving treatments must be appropriate to the environmental conditions where they are applied. As the result of climate variability across the country no single treatment will work best in all situations.

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In colder areas, the use of “bumf/ interlining” will greatly enhance insulation.

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One of the most effective ways of reducing heat loss through windows is the use of insulating curtains.

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The addition of pelmets will increase insulation benefits via the reduction of convectional air flow.

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The insulating properties of a curtain are achieved with an insulating lining which is sewn-in separately and has a thermal coating. The separate sewn-in lining traps air between the different layers of fabric.

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DRA PERY

Insulation & Airflow

Installation examples

Design solutions

FLOOR TO CEILING

Proportion is the key factor when you are recommending ways to treat a window.

Create an illusion of more height by installing the window furnishings against the ceiling rather than on the frame of the window. This will automatically make the room look higher.

A wall-to-wall and ceiling-to-floor window furnishing can make a small room look much larger.

Extending the curtain track out beyond each side of a small window will improve the wall’s proportion by making the window appear larger than it really is. This also enables the curtains to stack back and allow maximum light and air into the room.

WALL TO WALL

To maximise energy-saving efficiency, insulating curtains need to be well fitted as close to the window frame as possible, designed to sit on the floor and extended past the window frames to form a boxlike effect over the window area.

If two or more small windows are close together on one wall, you can create the illusion of one big window by treating them as one.

CREATE ILLUSION OF ONE BIG WINDOW

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Colour scheme considerations It is important that the customer is comfortable with the overall colour direction you are taking.

Try to guide the customer toward a look which will have longevity by choosing a palette that the client will appreciate over a decade not just a season.

LIGHT COLOURS: •

Are generally easier on the eye.

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Are safer in terms of resale.

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Provide a light and airy atmosphere.

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Tend to make a room seem larger.

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Can be used to highlight accessories to great effect.

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Give a rich and dramatic atmosphere.

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Make a room seem smaller.

PEGASUS / SENCHA

DARK COLOURS:

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Curtain headings Heading styles determine the draping style and stack-back characteristics of a curtain.

There are a wide range of heading styles available, but your final selection will be partly determined by the need for the heading to allow for stack back, and the client’s financial and aesthetic requirements. If the window needs to be completely uncovered when the curtains are drawn back, you will need to select a heading with good stack-back.

If good stack-back is not a consideration, then a wider selection of styles are available to you, and tie backs can be used to hold the curtains back to expose more of the window, if this is what your customer wants. However some people like plenty of fabric fullness and are quite happy not to have the curtains stacked back.

Here is where your expertise will come in to interpret what the client’s wishes are.

DRA PERY

BISHOP SLEEVE:

DUTCH PLEAT:

EYELET:

FRENCH PLEAT:

GOBLET PLEATS:

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(also known as double pleat or 2 pinch pleat):

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The eyelet can be an effective option.

(Also known as triple pinch pleat):

(A three dimensional fold in fabric with a waisted bulbous shape).

• Dutch pleat is easy to install and has good draping qualities.

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The fabric recommended for this heading is medium to heavier because lighter cloth can be visually overtaken by the eyelet and rod itself, or the process of eyeleting can damage very light fabric.

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Fabrics suited are medium/ heavyweight unless bumf is used in light fabrics.

This style is suited for situations where the fabric drop can be full length - where the sleeve is caught usually 1/3 up from the floor in 8’ stud. If the drop is higher, then the sleeve would go no higher than the dado rail.

To catch the sleeve, various options are available. A simple tieback made of the same fabric, rope tiebacks and/or tassel tiebacks and the tassel is then placed in the centre of the sleeve.

• Fabric styles like washed damask respond well to this heading.

• Less formal than the french pleat, being two pleats and it opens at the top, thus creating a soft structured look.

• Rod and ring or rod track look best, especially the smaller diameter rod.

• The Dutch pleat is also suited not only to full length curtain drops but to curtains that finish at dado level (bottom third of wall, approx. windowsill height) i.e. children’s bedrooms, beach houses, rumpus rooms etc.

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•

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They have an even number of holes with metal eyelets machined into the fabric, with the eyelets threaded onto the curtain rod.

This system is restricted by the limited track length. The addition of wall brackets, which would usually reinforce the tracks strength, in this case will inhibit the eyelets from gliding freely from side to side.

French pleating has good stack-back characteristics and has the added advantage of giving superb draping, plus easy installation.

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This heading style requires more fabric.

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Suits most fabrics, and looks more dramatic with wider buckram.

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FRENCH GOBLET PLEAT:

To cover a window more effctively than standard tape and hooks.

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The pleat imitates a goblet, rounded at the top, coming down to a waist.

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This pleat suits a wide variety of fabrics.

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This style of pleat looks wonderful on a washed fluted rod, rod & ring or rod track system.

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To help hold open the goblet, teased Dacron pushed into the top of the pleat will suffice.

FLAT GOBLET PLEAT:

• You may consider recommending dutch pleat where a customer simply cannot afford a quotation that has been based on french pleating, or has less stacking room available.

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A button or tuff has a practical as well as a decorative purpose, at the base of the goblet pleat.

This heading is a relaxed version of the French goblet, which should not be a wine glass but looser and flatter, about 40 mm wide at the base as opposed to being pinched in. The flat goblet should be caught at the base with thread.

• Is one pinch less than French pleat.

In this section we outline some of the most popular profiles of curtain headings.

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WDARL A L P CE O RV YERIN G S

INVERTED PLEAT

NEW YORK PLEAT

ROD AND CLIP:

PENCIL PLEAT:

DOUBLE PENCIL PLEAT:

WAVE HEADING:

(also known as reverse pleating or box pleat):

(also known as single pleat):

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It can be a cost effective window treatment.

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(Also referred to as an s-fold)

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The fullness recommended is 70-80%.

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This application is suited to light, free-flowing fabric. The rod can be ‘ring & clip’ or a ‘ clip only’ on a track system, both creates a similar effect.

This is an excellent heading for very long drops of fabric, or if the curtains have been taken up to the ceiling. A double multi helps create visual balance and weight not only to the room but often to the fabric.

Double multi works well on all track systems.

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Care must be taken as to the choice of patterned fabrics as pleating can alter the look of the pattern at the top of the curtain.

Flat on the face side of curtaining, with deep inverted tailored pleats.

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It is an elegant heading with soft simplicity.

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The best stacking is achieved with a rod.

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This is a box pleat to the rear of the curtains; it creates a simple, contemporary look.

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This pleat, as it suggests, is inverted.

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This style stacks well when curtains are drawn back from the window.

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When the curtain is stacked back it creates uniform folds and sits well in most fabrics.

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A very contemporary look.

A flat or softly rounded heading and most successful by using the Buckram polyester tape.

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One pinch pleat to the front of the curtain.

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Stacks well and is especially effective on heavier fabrics or where there is very little stacking room.

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This heading responds well to most fabrics and weighted hems (just off the floor) look wonderful.

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•

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Pencil pleat curtains have a back tape running across top (full width) of the curtain, with cords running through that are pulled to achieve the desired gather.

The fullness of a pencil pleat curtain will vary depending on the amount of gather you create with the pull cords.

As a rule of thumb it is thought that 1.8-2.5 m of fabric is used for every metre of track/rod.

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Forms soft folds that can be secured to the rear with tape to ensure the folds stay in even shape.

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Simple buckram heading uses 60% to 70% fullness.

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Stacks well on rods.

They can be hung from any curtain track using hooks or from a curtain rod using rings with hooks.

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There are five main heading tape categories:

wide and used primarily for sheer curtains but can be used for main curtains where they are hung on mini track or under a pelmet.

BUCKRAM TAPE: •

Used to create triple, double, single and inverted pleats.

DETACHABLE LINING TAPE: •

It can also enable you to provide your client with linings only, delaying the purchase of the curtain fabric if necessary, due to difficulty in choosing an appropriate colour/pattern or simply to meet their budget.

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This can be useful when mildew is a problem.

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This tape provides the opportunity for the removal of the lining from the curtain for laundering without having to launder the face fabric too.

FRENCH PLEAT TAPE: •

Does not look as nicely finished as the machine made French pleat.

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Simulates the look of true french pleating but does not have the same stack-back and draping capabilities.

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When making these linings allow the same fullness as the top fabric to allow both to flow together.

PENCIL PLEAT TAPE: •

Available in a variety of widths, commonly 70 mm through to 100 mm & 150 mm.

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Gives a curtain a luxurious, wide heading and is most suited to full length curtains.

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It is important to note that pencil tape is the least economical style when stacking curtains back.

TIP: Refer to your workroom for exact interpretations of these terms as each workroom may differ. It is wise to have small samples made up by your workroom to show your client. Make sure they are lined. Quality images on your tablet may assist your customer to select their preference.

NARROW TAPE: •

Care should be taken to ensure that heavy curtains are not used when using some types of mini track.

Heavy curtains should be used on a more robust style of tracking.

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In this instance the main curtains are given 100% fullness and a 15 mm heading to cover the track when the curtains are drawn.

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Usually 28 mm and/or 40 mm

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MOKUM / SADDAH

MOKUM / SADDAH

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CATHERINE MARTIN BY MOKUM / BESPOKE

Considerations for velvet drapery When ordering curtains it is important that the required cuts are advised so that any irregularities can be allowed for.

When making velvet curtains it is recommended to run the pile facing up, as aesthetically this will give you a deeper and more intense colour and functionally, any pile disturbance will disappear quickly as the pile relaxes. Making up viscose velvets with the pile down allows for more light reflection, however any pile disturbance will also show more readily.

Velvet curtains should be lined to protect them against ultraviolet light exposure, thus reducing pile loss, colour fading and fibre degradation. Lining will enhance the draping and therefore general appearance of your curtains.

We recommended to always use a pull cord or rod to open and close velvet curtains as hand contact will likely bruise and crush the texture of the pile, eventually leading to visible handprints.

After hanging velvet curtains it is recommended that they be drawn

COVERIN G S

CATHERINE MARTIN BY MOKUM / BESPOKE

W O V E N

across, allowing the pile to breathe and relax. The pile will continue to relax and improve over time due to surrounding atmospheric conditions. Velvet will breathe and relax in different ways depending on its surrounding environment/ climate. For example, in high humidity environments the velvet will relax well on its own. However, in a dry climate, velvet often needs assistance to settle correctly. In this

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situation, velvet can be sprayed with a fine water mist to lightly dampen the fabric. It needs to be left to dry without being touched.

After drying, most creases and marks will have dropped out and the pile will have lifted. We recommend that this technique is performed by a professional curtain installer as if it is not done correctly, the velvet may be permanently marked.

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Drapery textile terms unraveled In the following section we unravel the mystery behind important drapery textile terms commonly referred to within the industry. To be successful in this industry it is important that you have a clear understanding of following terms as we cover the topics of drapery pattern repeats, pattern matching, drapery manufacturing directions and sample directions.

LOOM

Pattern repeats James Dunlop Textiles will always measure and record the horizontal pattern repeat in the weft direction (across the roll, from selvedge to selvedge), regardless of the fabric width or the direction in which the fabric has been sampled.

VERTICAL PATTERN REPEAT: James Dunlop Textiles will always measure and record the vertical pattern repeat in the warp direction (up the roll), regardless of the fabric width or the direction in which the fabric has been sampled.

Remembering that warp yarns always run up the roll, and weft yarns always run across roll, from selvedge to selvedge.

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JAMES DUNLOP / WHALE BAY

HORIZONTAL PATTERN REPEAT:

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COMMON CUSTOMER QUERY:

COMMON CUSTOMER QUERY:

“What way does the stripe run?”

“What way does the stripe run?”

EXAMPLE WHERE RECORDED PATTERN REPEATS ARE AS FOLLOWS:

EXAMPLE WHERE RECORDED PATTERN REPEATS ARE AS FOLLOWS: • Horizontal pattern repeat (weft) NIL

• Horizontal pattern repeat (weft) 30 cm

• Vertical pattern repeat (warp) 30cm

• Vertical pattern repeat (warp) NIL

The vertical pattern repeat indicates that the pattern repeat between stripes is evident in 30 cm increments in the warp direction/up the roll. From this we know that the stripe is running across the roll, from selvedge to selvedge.

The horizontal pattern repeat indicates that the pattern repeat between stripes is evident in 30 cm increments in the weft direction/across the roll.

From this we know that the stripe is running up the roll.

This would be common in a standard width drapery, where the drops are then joined selvedge to selvedge for a vertical stripe effect at the window.

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If this fabric was wide (280 cm+), and given it was stable in both the warp and weft direction, the roll could be turned 90 degrees and used continuously across the length of the window to show the stripe in a vertical orientation, with the selvedges running across the top and bottom of the window.

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VERTICAL HALF DROP PATTERN MATCHING: This is when the pattern doesn’t match exactly on each side of the fabric roll from selvedge to selvedge. It matches half a (vertical) drop down instead.

Dropping the design half a repeat helps deceive the eye and makes it look ‘wider’ with ‘less joins’.

missing L6 Direct/Standard pattern match example whereby cuts 1 and 2 are laid side by side with pattern directly matching at the selvedge.

Cuts 1 and 2 laid side by side with pattern not matching at the selvedge

Vertical drapery pattern matching A key challenge with standard width or wide width drapery designs (which cannot be used continuously), is the joining of patterns or designs at the selvedge.

Here we provide further information surrounding the two most common drapery pattern matching scenarios; direct/ standard pattern repeats and vertical half drop pattern repeats.

DIRECT/ STANDARD PATTERN MATCHING: This is the most common example, whereby the pattern is matched straight across the roll from selvedge to selvedge, making for a tidy join when two drops are placed directly beside each other.

Direct/Standard pattern match repeated on a roll.

Vertical half drop pattern match, repeated on a roll.

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Example whereby cut 2 is dropped half a vertical pattern repeat to create match at the selvedge

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Calculating fabric metreage for pattern repeats: DIRECT/STRAIGHT MATCH PATTERN REPEAT: The following example may be a useful guide when calculating the fabric metreage required for a direct/ straight match pattern repeat.

NOTE: There are alternative methods to reach this calculation, this is one example.

For this calculation we have used: •

Fabric width of 1400 mm

•

Vertical pattern repeat of 640 mm

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Track length/curtain width of 3200 mm

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Finished curtain length of 2260 mm

** Check with your workroom the hem allowances they work to. The general rule of thumb is a 150 mm bottom hem (double 75 mm) and 100 mm top hem (for example: 2260 mm + 250 mm = 2510 mm), however this can vary depending on the depth of heading required and if a voile requires extra to cover tape/buckram.

STEP 1: Establish the number of drops required: •

Add fullness allowance to track length 3200 mm x 2 (double fullness) = 6400 mm

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Divide this total by the width of the fabric 6400 mm ÷ 1400 mm = 4.57

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Round up to the nearest whole number = 5

•

The number of drops required is 5

DRA PERY

Using the same fabric as outlined in the previous example (direct/straight matching), refer to STEP 1 and STEP 2 to distinguish the number of drops required for each curtain as well as the lengths of the cuts.

STEP 1/2: Refer to previous example STEP 3: Calculate the total meterage required : •

5 x drops/cuts of 2560 mm = 12,800 mm

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Add half the 640 mm vertical pattern repeat to this total 12,800 mm + 320 mm = 13,120 mm

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Convert to metres = 13.12 m

STEP 2: Calculate the cut length:

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Fabric meterage required for this example = 13.12 m

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STEP 4: Preparation before cutting:

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Add the hem allowances (top and bottom) to the finished curtain length: 2260 mm + 250 mm** = 2510 mm (**150 mm bottom hem + 100 mm top hem) Divide this total by the vertical pattern repeat to calculate the number of pattern repeats in your length: 2510 mm ÷ 640 mm = 3.92

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Round up to the nearest whole number = 4

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Multiply the pattern repeat by the number of pattern repeats: 640 mm x 4 = 2560 mm

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The cut length is 2560 mm

STEP 3: Calculate the total metreage required: •

Times the number of drops by the cut length 5 drops x 2560 mm = 12800 mm

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Convert to metres = 12.8 m

•

Fabric metreage required for this example = 12.8 m

Before cutting any fabric, first sketch the curtain and label each of the 5 required drops sequentially from 1 to 5, left to right across the room.

STEP 5: Cutting to allow for vertical HD pattern repeat: Refer to following illustration for a visual reference to the following instructions •

Cut all the odd numbered drops first (1st, 3rd, 5th drop).

•

Cut all the odd numbered drops at 2560 mm, except for the last odd number drop (in this case the 5th drop).

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On the 5th drop (last odd number cut) add the additional half pattern repeat of 320 mm before cutting, making the total cut length of drop No.5 = 2880 mm, not 2560 mm.

•

This sets a new and relevant starting point on the roll (half a pattern repeat further down the roll) to then cut the even numbered drops (2nd & 4th drop) at 2560 mm.

STEP 6: Layout the cuts: Refer to illustration below as a visual reference to the following instructions

VERTICAL HALF DROP (HD) PATTERN REPEAT: The next example may be a useful guide when calculating the fabric meterage required for a vertical half drop (HD) pattern repeat.

Some pattern repeats match diagonally and require extra fabric to allow for correct matching.

There is a misconception around how much extra fabric is required to cater for a vertical half drop pattern repeat. Some believe you need to order an extra half repeat, or even an extra full repeat, for every 2nd drop of fabric. This is incorrect.

The most efficient calculation to minimise wastage is to add one extra pattern repeat to the whole order and cut the order as outlined on the following page.

•

After cutting, lay the cuts out in the original sequential room order identified in Step 4.

•

Placing the 1st cut, then the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, finishing with the 5th.The patterns will line up, leaving only 1 x 320 mm length of wastage at the end of the sequence/ full set of cuts.

NOTE: This guideline can be applied to any “full set” of cuts. This could be one window, or a room full of cuts for the same fabric over multiple windows (depending on what is being calculated, cut and manufactured simultaneously). As the number of cuts that are bundled into each “full set” increases, so too should your consideration for the layout of those cuts.

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LAYOUT GUIDE FOR HALF DROP REPEAT

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MANUFACTURING DIRECTIONS

It is important to understand the basic drapery terms listed below with regards to the direction fabric will be manufactured into curtains.

The following terms will be relevant when deciphering the appropriate meterage required for a drapery job.

STANDARD DROP: Normally a 130 cm – 150 cm standard width drapery fabric, dropped vertically off the roll with the cut lengths/drops joined together (selvedge to selvedge) to span a window.

WIDE WIDTH

CONTINUOUS:

WIDE WIDTH:

Terminology used to refer to a wide drapery fabric (280 cm+) which can be turned 90 degrees from the direction that it was woven on the loom. In turning the fabric, you can run the roll ‘continuously’ across the length of a window with no joins/seams.

Curtain manufacturers gain efficiencies through less stitching, and no vertical pattern matching required.

Same principle as above but it’s the terminology used for 280 cm+ wide drapery fabric. The benefit of a wide width fabric is one less join/seam than a standard width fabric, i.e. it would require two drops of standard 150 cm wide fabric to cover the same horizontal distance as one drop of 300 cm wide fabric.

Continuous/continuously is a drapery term however railroaded/railroading is an upholstery term for essentially the same thing, they both refer to turning the fabric 90 degrees during manufacturing from the orientation that it came off the textile loom.

CONTINUOUS

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SAMPLE SHOWN CONTINUOUS

SAMPLE DIRECTIONS FOR DRAPERY FABRIC If a sample indicates that the fabric is “shown continuously”, it means that the sample has been designed to show the fabric in this rotated direction. A fabric that has been sampled in the wide width direction, as it was woven on the loom, can generally still be turned and manufactured continuously unless the fabric wholesaler has specified not to based on the textile construction.

The following illustrations provide further information for the following directional icons printed on James Dunlop Textiles drapery samples.

DRAPERY SAMPLE SHOWN CONTINUOUS

DRAPERY SAMPLE SHOWN WIDE WIDTH

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MOKUM / ESSENZA

SAMPLE SHOWN WIDE WIDTH

COVERIN G S

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COVERIN G S

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Top treatments What is a top treatment?

Custom-made curtains provide you with the scope to create spectacular window treatments for your customers and really exceed their expectations. Of course, not every customer will want, or will be able to afford a window treatment that is out-ofthe-ordinary and some home and furnishing styles simply don’t lend themselves to certain window top treatment styles.

As a professional advisor to your customer you will consider the architecture of the home when deciding upon whether or not to embellish the windows as well as the practical elements involved such as cleaning, fixing position, stacking ability and existing décor.

If a window does lend itself to special treatment, then a top treatment should be considered.

Swags and tails, valances and pelmets all fall under the category of top treatments. All of these top treatments can be created in a wide variety of styles to suit formal, contemporary or casual furnishing and decorating styles.

enhance the window and complement the room’s furnishings and decorating style. This skill will create a unique point of difference between the services that you offer and those of your competitors.

To successfully recommend top treatment you will need good reference material – you need to be able to show your customer the top treatment style that you have in mind, discuss it and, if necessary, show alternatives. You should use your expertise to guide your customer through the various options and in the end, settle on a style that you both agree will fulfil their requirements.

Being able to sketch your treatment ideas and show illustrations of styling demonstrates your appreciation and understanding of your clients views. It is important to interpret these views correctly and show alternatives that could suit better.

Your skill will be to recommend a top treatment style that will

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LIP CORD AND TRIMMINGS: •

An inexpensive fabric can be enhanced dramatically with trimmings, turning the window treatment into a luxurious look with minimal outlay.

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Lip cords are available with an attached woven band or flange, which can be stitched in a seam allowance.

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Refer to your workroom for guidance of application or calculation meterage.

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Trimmings such as tassel fringing, beading, gimp and lip cords are a useful tool for enhancing curtains, top treatments, furniture and accessories. Refer to page 170 for detailed sketches of popular trim profiles TIP: Pre-tape all lip cord cuts to prevent unravelling.

PELMETS:

SWAGS AND TAILS: •

Pelmets can add character or drama to a window treatment.

They are very versatile and suit most window shapes.

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A fitted or built-in structure whose purpose is to add a decorative feature, visually extend the window or set up a focal/view point.

Even a plain pelmet can be given character with the addition of piping or, where covered in a printed fabric, a matching or contrasting border in a plain fabric.

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Pelmets are an ideal way to introduce a sense of harmony in a room where the windows are of varying size and shape.

They can all be fixed at the same height to give the illusion that the windows are the same.

This can look especially effective when used in conjunction with Roman blinds.

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Pelmet design is limited only by your imagination and can be very plain or extremely embelished.

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Pelmets are a great way to show the pattern in a fabric because it is seen on a flat surface, as opposed to being distorted and hidden in the folds of a curtain.

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Pelmets can be padded, shaped, use gilt frame or even MDF. They can be painted and adorned with velcro felt cutouts, silk flowers and such for children’s bedrooms.

Potentially the most extravagant top treatment, swags and tails have been generally associated with traditional window treatments.

This format provides opportunities for the use of complementary fabrics providing contrast to the reverse side of the tails or jabots.

Add on products include:

Insulation is enhanced with pelmets – by reducing the convectional airflow between the glass and the curtain.

TIP: A common mistake when a pelmet is fitted is the lack of height for the track behind the pelmet which means that the heading is exposed. This is something to be mindful of when working with pelmets or valances.

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Be ading

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Co-ordinated tiebacks

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Fringing

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Rosettes

There are modern interpretations of traditional swags and tails design that enhance contemporary décor. The secret here is to reduce the top treatment to its simplest form and careful thought should be paid to using fabric that drapes well.

Remember to give thought to lining the tails; ensuring the use of a darker fabric on the back of the tails doesn’t taint the colour used in the front.

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An appropriate example of balance and form – particularly if the home lends itself to this style.

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Bullion trims and key tassels can add to the overall formality but of course anything can be pared down which moves it from a traditional to more classical style.

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The choice of fabric will dictate

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•

The tails are structured folds and should step down; normally finishing length is 1/3 of the overall length.

Considerations when recommending swags and tails: •

An absolute minimum swag depth of 300-350 mm should be observed.

A classical elegant pose. The cascades and swags are of a more relaxed nature and this style of window treatment suits fabric like muslin, lightweight linens, cotton/ polyester and fine velvets.

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Be aware that these are tedious to put together and hard to get visually perfect.

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The rod treatment is a double track system with finials only on the outside rod.

VALANCES: The traditional function of a valance is to conceal the track and curtain heading. This is a piece of fabric, plain or shaped, and fitted on a track, with the curtains on another track underneath. In effect it is a double track system.

The valance treatment generally complements the style of the main curtain, but in contemporary variations, can act as a complete contrast.

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This treatment can be quite heavy so sufficient timber fixing is required.

A good lining will help hold the fabric and prevent daylight showing between wall and window. This picture here shows a plain valance and a shaped flat goblet pleat – a soft informal look.

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The height of fixing must hide the header tapes, track or pelmet board from outside view.

The sides of the valance should have a return that fits back to the wall.

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The valance is not as expensive as swags and tails but gives the opportunity to ‘dress up the window’ at a reasonable price to the customer. A wide range of valance styles are available.

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This can be an inexpensive plain valance with trimmings or contrast banding for added decoration.

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Swags and tails are generally mounted on a header board with Velcro, stapled to a custom made pelmet or alternatively, draped over a rod.

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SWAG, CASCADE OVER ROD:

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The proportions of the window need to be considered when calculating the depth of the swags to give a balanced look.

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This depth should also be generous enough to ensure that, at the overlap of the swags, the wall beneath will not be exposed. Pairs of windows may be enhanced with the use of asymmetrical swags and tails.

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This is useful if there are varying heights to the windows, as they can all be installed at the same height to give continuity.

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Valances are also an ideal way to use the space above a window and create a better proportioned window treatment by making it look taller.

PEGASUS / ZOOLOGY

how formal this looks, the softer the cloth the better – though bumf may be needed to help hold that softness.

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•

An ideal track for nets, sheers or lightweight curtains.

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For use directly onto the wall or architraves.

CONCEALED TRACK RODS, METAL RODS & RINGS: •

Designed to conceal the track - the rod is routed and a track is mounted into the routed groove.

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Made of wood or metal and are available in various diameters and a wide range of finishes.

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Most rods are able to be bent to fit into bay windows or around corners depending upon the diameter of the rod.

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Some rods can be pull corded.

Both track rods and ring rods are available as a double combination – either with all track or ring or a combination of both. There are now rods available that have “c” shaped rings which allow them to pass the brackets unobstructed.

Check supplier’s specifications.

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The most international standards for sizes of track rods are 19 mm, 25 mm, 28 mm and 35 mm in diameter, depending upon the product of which they are made.

3. HEAVY DUTY TRACK:

Tracks The fabric that will be chosen is part of the beauty, but how the track or rod is placed and how they function together will enhance your customer’s window treatment. Most customers will be unaware of the options available, and it is up to you as a professional to present the optimal outcome.

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Available either hand drawn or corded.

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Can be bent to fit most windows.

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Heavy duty, multipurpose aluminium construction.

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Smooth running on gliders or rollers.

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They will carry any weight of curtain.

4. MULTI FIX TRACK: •

Suitable for nets, sheers or lightweight curtains.

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Versatile lightweight aluminium track that can be fixed either under window frames, curtains, pelmets, or directly onto window architrave.

5. TOP FIX TRACK:

Tracks are a popular economical and practical method of hanging sheers, curtains and top treatments.

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For use under pelmets or directly under window frames.

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Ideal track for nets, sheers or lightweight curtains.

FEATURES:

CABLE SUSPENSION SYSTEMS:

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Can be sprayed or powder coated to match the colour scheme.

Double tracks are available where a valance and/or sheer curtain is required in conjunction with the main curtain to save fixing into the wall.

Tracks are split into five different types. In this following section we discuss these various options.

1. EXTENDABLE TRACK: •

A budget face-fix curtain track.

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Can be top or face fixed.

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EYELET RODS: •

Aluminium wears as it crosses the cable, ultimately oxidising, and produces a grey dust which drops onto the fabric.

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Choose the fabric wisely with this treatment – this style suits soft draping fabrics.

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When using a cable suspension product it is important to note that in addition to ensuring your fixing is into timber, you must not use aluminium based eyelets.

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100 mm bracketing is also required to ensure the curtain can form nice folds with good wall clearance.

A maximum of three brackets on a rod of this type and manufacturer’s specifications for length must be followed.

Allow the rod to sit a minimum of 100 mm above the frame so the base of the eyelet sits above the framing.

The side brackets must be installed into timber so the amount of stacking is reduced to about 100 mm on each side.

Approximately 12 rings per metre is the usual number to allocate for the rod.

JAMES DUNLOP / ARUBA

2. FACE FIX TRACK:

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taken at back of bay, and what clearance you would like, or if you are providing the exact track measurements needed.

WOODEN TRACK ROD: •

Available in cedar or rimu and can be stained, painted or have a paint effect added.

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Can be bent to fit any bay window – both internal and external bends are available.

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Rod is also available as a ring rod.

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Rods can be hand drawn or corded.

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Track is rebated to the rear of the rod and is completely hidden.

TRACK TIPS: When measuring for track or rod in a bay window make sure: •

Always note on your measure sheet where you have measured e.g. if ceiling fitted –

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To measure angle sizes for bends, as often they are not the same.

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You have solid fixing – this may be face fitted to the wall or architrave or ceiling fitted. If fixing above the window there is usually a solid fixing point 50 mm above the architrave.

should adjust accordingly.

If colour matching is a priority either supply a sample of the colours, or full paint details to the track/rod manufacturer. Your hardware provider may also recommend a range of powder coat colours for you to specify from.

Track bending now allows for arcs to be made, but ensure you take into consideration any transport issues.

When ordering rods your measurements will be supplied as the rod length i.e. excluding the finials. If you are using a software program you will be asked if your length includes or excludes finials.

If you are ordering particularly long tracks for buildings with lift or stairwell access only, be mindful of transportation to site. It may be necessary to order your track in two pieces to put together on site, otherwise check to see if they can be brought up via the outside of the building.

If you are fitting wall to wall, or to an exact gap, specify the length as inclusive of finials and the supplier

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JAMES DUNLOP / KYOTO

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Track finishing details The finishing details can make or break a job.

An end return, especially on longer brackets, is a good way to hide the bracketing on the end of the track. The curtains are hooked around the end of the track and back to the wall, removing the view of the brackets and adding to the thermal qualities of the window treatment. Make sure you allow the extra curtain width to accommodate this.

JAMES DUNLOP / TURBULENT

DRAW CORDS

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Allow for an extra bracket at the pull cord end of the track for added long term strength.

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The actual cord, on the draw cord track, is always provided in white (even if your track is brown coloured) so it blends into the lining.

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When specifying draw-corded tracks you may like to request the track as corded at each end if it is a long track, or travelling around internal bends, to reduce the weight on the cord, or to allow one curtain to be drawn at a time for sun control.

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You can also request the cord length as required, note if the window is up high you will need to allow extra length for the cord.

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KEY POINTS:

Soft blinds

LONDON BLIND:

BONDED BLINDS:

ROMAN BLIND:

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A London blind does look good with an inverted pleat and key tassels caught at the inner wing.

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A soft version of a roman blind with small side wings.

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Generally made to fit 100 mm wider than the architrave to allow for the relaxed sides of the blinds. If this is not done the small side wings pull the blind inwards and this creates a gap between the edge of the blind and the framing.

A custom made version of the traditional roller blind, the bonded blind is made in fabrics unaffected by water (this excludes thermal fabric) due to the process of manufacture.

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As with any ‘flat look’ blind, care should be taken to ensure the pattern does not run off (i.e. pattern is printed square on the fabric) as this becomes particularly obvious if it is not correct.

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Often specified for bedrooms or filler for living areas where romans are viewed as being too severe.

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Bonded roller-shades are reverse rolled so that the back of the fabric is not visible. This, however, means the fabric falling from the front of the roller sits further away from the glass (and may be worth considering if it is being fitted to a door).

This simple window treatment is often used in conjunction with curtains and/or voile/sheers. The fitting of a roman blind is either ‘inside fit’ within the window reveal or ‘outside fit’ outside the reveal/architrave. It is usual to fit all soft blinds 300 mm above the architrave and a minimum of 30 mm on either side of the architrave when fitted outside the frame. This ensures the blind will cover the privacy line and also ensures the blind can be fitted level whilst still covering the framing.

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This is a more expensive treatment and there are limited sources to produce these blinds.

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We recommend specifying a fabric with a natural fibre component (up to 50%) as this will allow the glue to be absorbed during the drying process and result in the strongest possible adhesion.

Roman blinds may be made in one of four formats:

4. Soft roman blinds have no battens showing apart from the bottom one. As the blind is pulled up the structure within the blind is softened out and creates a soft fold. It looks great using voiles/sheers or very soft fabric.

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Discuss positioning of blinds which meet in a corner with your client. Will they butt together or overlap?

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Do you want the base board of the blind to be level/higher/ lower than the pleats and is there a special depth of the top pleat required?

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Fabric allowances vary between workrooms. Discuss their requirements for both fabric and measuring details e.g. pull cord positioning, to ensure cord hangs straight down to cleat and doesn’t angle across the architrave.

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If fading is an issue it is wise to remember that if the base of the blind is lower than the pleats, it will take the brunt of the sun which minimises the fade lines on the pleats above.

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Stack depths vary – roman blinds stack into smaller depths than Austrian or London blinds and this may affect your decision when choosing a style.

TIP: Possible add-on products include: borders, key tassels, fringing, pelmets etc.

1. As an exposed pocket roman blind – with a pocket stitched through the fabric and the lining, either to the front or with the pocket sitting to the back.

2. With the rods sewn into the lining, which is then fused to the fabric eliminating the stitching lines and pattern distortion.

3. As a standard roman blind but with a roller blind chain controlled mechanism. This is slightly more expensive but makes the raising and lowering of a large blind extremely easy.

JJ AA MM EE SS DD UU NN LL OO PP TT EE XX TT I LI L EE SS . C. C OO M M | | 1 0x 9

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ladder.

PLEATED BLINDS: •

Either a single pleat or a honeycomb design.

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Stack into a minimal space, come in a wide range of colours and are available as a block-out of semitransparency.

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VENETIAN BLINDS (WOODEN):

The honeycomb style of blinds is the best type of blind for heat retention – they have an air pocket to trap heat and are therefore energy efficient.

ROLLER BLINDS: •

Hard window treatment

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Hard window treatments include roller blinds, shutters, sunscreen blinds, venetian blinds, vertical blinds and wooden blinds.

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KEY POINTS: •

CATHERINE MARTIN BY MOKUM / FLAMINGO

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Because you are specialising in custom-made curtains hard window treatments can serve as an additional service that you offer to customers.

Can be used in conjunction with curtains, swags and tails, top treatments and pelmets to create superb window treatments.

They are also available with varying amounts of overlap or perforations to control the amount of light.

A fabric blind that comes in a wide range of textures, colours, and light elimination qualities.

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Can be painted to suit the interior scheme.

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Come in 25 mm or 50 mm slating and also come with tape or string ladders.

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Not suitable for wet areas such as bathrooms.

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These blinds provide good privacy and light control.

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Wooden blind – the handsome quality of wood with a clean, contemporary look.

Can be controlled by spring operation, chain control or motorisation.

VERTICAL BLINDS:

Great in contemporary situations on large window with little or no stacking ability and anywhere clean modern lines are required.

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Lowest cost window covering available, with minimal stackback when used as an internal treatment.

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Tend to have less insulation and high maintenance.

SHUTTERS (WOODEN): •

Available in a painted finish.

KEY POINTS:

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Come with a fixed timber frame.

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Have either adjustable or fixed horizontal slats.

The finishing details often make or break a job. The following points will help you achieve the best end result of a job:

TIMBER LOOK BLINDS:

WHAT TYPE OF BLIND?:

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Easy to clean and maintain.

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Hard treatments in conjunction with soft window treatments can be an excellent way to increase the profitability on jobs because you are, in effect, covering the window twice.

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Great for use in wet areas and will remain stable in higher heat environments e.g. kitchens and bathrooms.

Back roll (or standard roll) gives better privacy as the fabric is closer to the glass and frame.

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These blinds are made from a special thermoplastic alloy resin.

Discuss the options available with your supplier.

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Metal or wooden blinds may suit certain applications, such as exposed bay windows over a reflective stainless steel bench where a fabric blind may fade due to extreme ultraviolet conditions.

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They are impervious to moisture and resist cracking, warping and fading.

Front roll (can be called reverse roll) covers the roller and falls from the front of the roller, and gives a visually better look. It also allows the blind to pass window catches.

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Make sure all blades are the same width within the same area.

VENETIAN BLINDS (METAL): •

Metal blinds come in 25 mm and 50 mm widths and use either a string or tape for the

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Skylights and conservatory roofs are able to be covered with the use of pleated and roller blinds.

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Vertical blinds are available in varying blade widths – consider this when fitting vertical blinds, especially if curtains are going to be pulled past the blind. The blade depth should not be wider than the window reveal.

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When considering the type of blind to use make sure you take into consideration the following; latches, security fittings, mullions, or other protrusions, inside or outside opening doors/windows, final aesthetics, the practical requirement of the blind, usability of fabric for the purpose, and finally the price range the client is comfortable with.

How to measure window furnishings

SUN AND PRIVACY: •

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If privacy is required as well as heat reflection, a double system of sunscreen and block out fabric on tracks is a good option.

Remember that the darker the fabric the better the view. A lighter colour will maximise heat reflection. Also remember that sunscreen blinds provide privacy during the day, but at night they provide minimal privacy.

BAY WINDOW

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Most workrooms will match each set of curtains at the hem.

You need to advise the cutter on your measure sheet if all the headings will need “top” matching if the floor varies.

If the track needs to travel around a bay window, or be bent around corners, it is imperative that all measurements and angles are accurate because the track can only be bent once.

MEASURING PRINCIPLES:

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If both headings and hems vary, draw this for your workroom, noting a common reference point.

Make sure to:

•

While measuring will become second nature, be careful not to become overconfident. Inattention to detail results in mistakes and these are costly to your company.

All companies will have their own measuring model. It’s not a case of one size fits all but, from our experience, these suggestions may be helpful: •

Always start from the front entrance and measure the first room on the left and proceed in a clockwise

Observe and note variances in heights of windows, or where hems will vary in height, to ensure accurate pattern matching from window to window.

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Remember to measure every window. Don’t assume that any two windows are the same because they can often vary slightly in size.

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Start your measuring with the main curtains and any top treatments that are required.

MEASURING ROUTINE:

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Measurement of bay windows and corners:

Measuring must be done thoroughly and accurately.

Measurements determine the cost of a job therefore accuracy is absolutely vital.

TIP: Always measure in millimetres (mm) not cm or inches.

Sunscreen blinds provide heat protection while still allowing a view.

direction throughout the house or building.

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Draw measurements on your plan as you view the window.

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Note internal and external angle sizes as required.

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Show all angles as per the inside of the window using an angle measurer – guesswork is not appropriate.

The track provider will make track and bracket allowances for any bends. Do not make allowances yourself as you run the risk of the manufacturer adding deductions, on top of your own, ending up in a track that does not fit.

When top fixing a track be aware of the fixing position and substrate.

If there is any doubt have your fitter double check your sizes, or fixing, prior to ordering the track.

Use the same procedure in each room so that the installer knows exactly where to commence installation.

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If it is a new house and you’re measuring with no floor coverings, check what type of floor covering is going to be used. Different floor coverings have different thicknesses e.g. carpet, ceramic tiles etc, with each profile requiring different deductions.

Confirm with the customer where the curtains are to finish:

For example: •

Top of architrave to floor: 2030 mm

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Less carpet: 15 mm

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Total: 2015 mm

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Plus fixing above architrave: 100 mm (The heading allowance is dependent on the style of track used)

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Finished measurement: 2115 mm

ARCHITRAVE

TIP: Curtain drops with the track set high near the ceiling improve the overall look of most jobs by adding height and depth to the installation.

Manufacturers generally supply information on the heading allowances that need to be made for each of their particular types of tracking.

MEASUREMENT OF BLINDS:

MEASUREMENT OF CURTAIN DROP/LENGTH:

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Timber blinds fitted as an outside fit require fascia returns to cover the ends of the brackets.

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When fitting blinds into corner situations carefully consider the line of sight of the blinds and the gaps/overlaps that will occur. Make sure the client is aware of these.

Measure from the top of the frame to the floor and add the appropriate distance above the frame for your curtain finished length.

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If there is an existing track, measure from the top of the track to the floor and make relevant additions and deductions.

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When measuring the corner situation include the inside, outside and depth of the frame.

Make no deductions as this is done by your manufacturer.

TIP: Don’t forget to consider the wall placement of substantial pieces of furniture, e.g cabinets, book shelves etc and how these may impede onto your window furnishing.

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For large windows, ranch sliders and folding doors, take at least three measurement points across the width of the window to ensure that the floor is level.

Where the track is being installed above the architrave, add approximately 10mm on the length of the curtain to compensate for any slight variances when the curtain is being manufactured.

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BELOW SILL

SLIGHTLY OFF THE FLOOR (determine exact measurement)

The 100 mm or more allowed for fixing above the architrave gives the fitter tolerance if any measurements are slightly incorrect. The fitter is also able to gain some adjustment by shifting the pin hooks and also by slightly adjusting the track height above the architrave.

Top fixing tracks require the finished length to be approximately 5 mm shorter than the floor to top of track measurement. This gives a 5 mm clearance between the track and ceiling.

MEASUREMENT OF CURTAIN (BELOW SILL): If the customer wants the curtain to finish at the sill follow the same calculation as with a drop to the floor but finish approx. 150-300 mm below the windowsill. It is important to consider the correct proportions and balance of the window when deciding exactly where to finish.

TOUCHING THE FLOOR (determine exact)

PUDDING ON THE FLOOR

This is an opportunity to spend some time with your client going through the general issue with fabrics and movement. Advise them which compositions are more likely to lift or drop, which will fall well and which may be likely to billow.

Discuss types of headings that will aid in creating the look they desire. Refer to page XXX for more information on various curtain headings.

TIP: It is important to consider the view of the curtain from the outside of the house, looking in.

Depending on how much, or little, of the finished curtain you want to see from the outside, you may need to make adjustments.

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MEASUREMENT OF CURTAIN WIDTH: The measurement you are taking should be (in most cases) the width of the window plus any stack-back. This measurement will then become the track or rod length. To calculate these amounts allow 100 mm of stacking per side for each 1m of track with a minimum of 200 mm. This can vary, but is a good rule of thumb.

If the window width is 2000 mm plus 200 mm stack back each side, this gives a total of 2400 mm track length. This general rule will vary in the following situations: •

To make a window look larger.

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Where French pleating is being used.

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Where possible, check for a stud to carry the weight of the overhang.

•

• •

support the track. It is critical to give a track additional support if it is to carry a heavy curtain and is a double draw cord track. An extra bracket on the pulley end of the cord drawn track is advisable to minimise the risk of bending the bracket with the extra drag on the cord.

Remember that GIB Board is a soft wall lining which will allow heavily loaded brackets to break through.

It is recommended not to allow more than 200 mm of track or rod past the final bracket fixing point in any installation.

IMPORTANT: To protect the fabric from ultraviolet degradation be sure to include sufficient stackback to allow you to pull curtains off the windows when they are open.

Where tape, hooks and pencil pleat (or similar) are being used.

TIP: The width required is the track width including an allowance for stack-back either side of the window.

The amount of stackback required will vary depending on the weight of the fabric as well as the curtain heading being used.

Where the curtains need to be hung in a confined space.

Where there is a ranch slider or opening door requiring a single one-directional draw.

EXAMPLE: If the width of the window is 2500 mm plus 250 mm allowance on each side for the stack-back and the studs do not fall within the 250 mm area on either side of the window, you may need to add extra length to the track to reach the nearest stud.

For cord drawn tracks remember to add an extra 50 mm beyond the stud to allow for the positioning of the bracket. This is most important when using cord drawn tracking systems.

Generally, this is only practical if the stud is located within 100 mm of the calculated length of the track with stack-back allowed for.

If this is not possible, the installer will have to use a toggle bolt to

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windowsill, or in the case of ranch sliders to clear the bottom of the ranch slider. The use of a heading above the tape will lift the curtain slightly off the sill or floor.

•

This wood-to-wood width measure is the “track” measurement. Allow 10 mm clearance to fit the curtain track. The track is generally top fixed, using a mini track.

TIP: Sheers can be installed on double tracks, both hand drawn and cord drawn, for a premium result.

Track manufacturers give details of allowances for each type of track.

Double tracks with sheers either as a face curtain, or as a sheer behind the main curtain, can be fitted well above the architrave near the ceiling to give the room a feeling of greater height. If using a double track adjust the finished length and heading of the curtain at the back to accommodate the height of the rear track.

MEASURE SHEETS: Measure sheets are critical for correct job costing. It is critical that your measurements are accurate.

Utilise a web based package, establish an Excel spreadsheet or write it down on paper.

MEASURING CHECKLIST: Are you covering light switches? If so, check the customer is aware of this.

Are air-conditioning units or burglar alarm monitors, for example, going to get in the way of the window treatments?

Depending on your business model, it’s advisable to create copies of the measurement sheets and email copies to the below if necessary.

Are there any fixed objects, that cannot be shifted, that may prevent the curtains from opening or closing properly?

Check if window seats are going to be added in a bay window. If this is the case, get the depth of the squabs and make allowances.

Check to see how the furniture will sit in each room and consider how this will affect the look of the window treatment.

Do the tracks need to sit out from the wall to allow curtains to draw across correctly over windowsill extensions? (More relevant on older style homes)

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Fabric ordering and workroom for installation team.

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Master file.

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Office job tracking and matching up with installation sheet for invoicing upon completion of job.

Ensure that: •

The measure sheet is self- explanatory.

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The measurements and manufacturing details are entered on the right hand side.

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These details allow for the accurate ordering of fabric, lining and tracking.

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The quotation details are entered on the left hand side.

Is the floor level?

Does the door open into the room causing problems with track installation? If so, ensure sufficient stack back distance is allowed so the heading tape does not interfere with the door opening.

Is the window square with the floor and ceiling? (have a small level in your work bag to check) If you are fitting to the ceiling, is the ceiling level? (remember large width windows should be checked across the window) If you are using a single draw track over a ranch slider, make sure you draw away from the ranch slider door opening.

MEASUREMENT OF SHEER CURTAINS: •

Allow a minimum of 100% fullness when using tape and hooks.

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For French pleat or similar, allow a minimum of 120% fullness.

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Take the measurement inside the window frame.

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The drop measurement is also the inside frame measurement.

The tape and hooks will lift the sheer net to clear the

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If you are using a “top treatment”, i.e. pelmet, or a double track, have you allowed enough clearance for the curtains to draw without obstruction?

In new homes, check with the customer to ensure nothing will be added at a later date which could interfere with the curtains, e.g. built in dining chest.

Make sure that the measurements that you take are with the correct architraves.

The addition of a weighted hem to the base of sheers increases the projection or flow of the fabric, taking the fabric closer to the glass. Have you allowed enough clearance off the glass, and from the curtains to compensate for this?

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DRA PERY

STEP 1: Establish the number of drops required:

Costing a drapery job Every company has a different philosophy on costing using different margins and formulas however in this section we outline suggested points to consider when costing a job.

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The drop, or finished length of the curtain.

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The width of the fabric.

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Job costing requires: •

Calculating the cost of manufacturing the curtains.

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Calculating the meterage required to line the curtains.

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Calculating the total meterage of fabric required to make the curtains.

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Costing the installation of the curtains and track (where applicable).

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REMEMBER: Accurate pricing is critical.

If the price is too low, you could end up doing the job for no profit or even at a loss. If a mistake increases the price you will invariably lose the job to a competitor and all the effort put into attracting the customer, making an appointment, measuring and quoting will have been wasted.

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Costing the tracking components required for the job.

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Multiplying the total meterage by the retail price per metre.

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Multiplying the total lining meterage by the retail price per metre.

Key points: •

Add the freight cost if required.

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Calculate the amount of fabric required.

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Calculate the lining meterage required (Generally the same amount of lining is required as for the main curtain fabric).

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Cost the installation.

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Cost the track components and any other accessories, including your retail mark-up.

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Factor in travel and removal of old tracking and curtaining as required, including mark-up.

Where a pattern repeat is involved in the main curtain, the meterage of lining required is calculated as if it were a main fabric. It may be calculated without the pattern repeat included to minimise costs as long as the workroom is informed of this.

An example of how to cost the amount of fabric required for a drapery job. As noted above, every company has a different philosophy on costing, using different margins and formulas, however the below is a suggestive guideline to calculate the cost of fabric required for a drapery job

Add fullness allowance to track width 3200 mm x 2 (double fullness) = 6400 mm.

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Divide by the width of the fabric (1400 mm) 6400 mm - 1400 mm = 4.57

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Round up to the nearest whole number = 5

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The number of drops required is 5

STEP 2: Calculate the cut length: •

Add the hem allowance to the finished length (consult your manufacturer on the hem allowances they work to).

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General rule of thumb is 150mm bottom hem (double 75 mm) and 100mm top hem 2260mm + 250mm = 2510mm

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The cut length is 2510mm

For the purpose of this example, we will assume: •

The curtain is made from a standard width (1400 mm) plain fabric.

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Track width = 3200 mm

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Finished length = 2260 mm

MOKUM / GRASSLAND

THE TWO MOST IMPORTANT ASPECTS IN COSTING THE MANUFACTURE OF CUSTOM-MADE CURTAINS ARE:

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STEP 3: Calculate the total meterage required: •

Multiply the number of drops by the cut length 5 x 2510 mm = 12550 mm

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Convert to metre = 12.55 m

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Fabric is sold in 100mm increments, so you would need to order, and therefore charge your customer for 12.6 m not 12.55 m.

If you are using a fabric with a pattern repeat, (a printed or jacquard effect fabric) you must establish the pattern repeat measurement. The pattern repeat decal is listed on your wholesalers website and also on the fabric samples.

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NOTE: Recorded pattern repeat measurements are approximates, and the actual measurements may vary slightly from roll to roll. If the pattern repeat has been recorded as a variable figure e.g. 64-68 cm, calculate both and go with the result which requires the most fabric.

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WA L L

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Ongoing contact will be encouraged by a voucher redeemable with your company.

Past customers often sell or purchase a new home and require curtains. You want to make sure that they remember your company and the fact that you appreciated their business.

Helpful hints: •

Installation notes

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Customers have a high level of expectation when they purchase custom-made curtains.

Often they will have spent a considerable amount of time, energy and money (in their eyes) on the installation. After all this investment customers can have a high level of anticipation and excitement which should not be underestimated.

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HELPFUL TIPS FOR A SUCCESSFUL INSTALLATION: Finishing an installation: •

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At the conclusion of a large job, when payment has been received, some may consider sending the customer a token of appreciation. This will also help increase the likelihood that you will get positive referrals from the customer.

JAMES DUNLOP / SOLANDRA

Many times the curtains are the finishing touch to a new or renovated home or, at the very least, the customer has decided to change the curtains and is expecting the new ones to transform a room.

If customers gain a positive first impression from you, which is reinforced by good service and communication skills, this will have a flow on effect so they will be at ease with the installer.

If the customer is particularly difficult or fussy about certain aspects of the job, give the installers this information so they are prepared. Do this verbally, DO NOT write it down as the client may see it on the installation sheet.

Include details on any unusual aspect of the job, such as “concrete or block wall, take correct drill” etc to ensure that the installer arrives at the job prepared.

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Make sure that you give the installer accurate, clear information on the job: time, location, colour of house, any other useful information.

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Make sure you have given the installer contact details for the client in case there is a problem.

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Remind the installer to silicone all curtain tracks as required.

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Remind the installer to check for correct fit of all curtains.

Ensure you have noted the distance above the frame you want the rod/track installed, how much stacking, where the stacking is and also where the curtains are to sit in relation to

COVERIN G S

the floor. Do not assume they will know.

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Remind the installer to take a long ladder when high installations are involved.

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Remind the installer when a job will require more than one person for the installation, or that the job may take extra time.

PERSONAL RESPONSIBILITY: •

Always phone the client after installation to make sure they are happy with the result, and prospect for further opportunities.

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Make sure that anything that needs fixing is done so with a minimum of fuss or delay – this will not only ensure that you get repeat business, but will ensure prompt payment.

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NOTE: James Dunlop Textiles is unable to accept claims of any nature, including colour variation after the fabric has been cut. This includes orders delivered to a third party, i.e. workroom or curtain manufacturer etc.

Some customers have an expectation that the ability to clean contaminants (stains) from fabrics is covered under the fabric warranty.

The fabric warranty relates to manufacturing faults or excessive wear within a reasonable time period – fabric staining is a care and maintenance issue and this is not covered by the fabric warranty.

You must take total responsibility for every job no matter the size, and make it a matter of personal pride to ensure that your customers hold your company in the highest regard.

PREPARATION: •

Include as much detail as possible on the installation sheet. Don’t assume that the installer will automatically understand what is required.

Have neat, clear and concise instructions on your installation sheet.

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It is important to remember that a job does not end with the installation. A job is not finished until it has been paid for in full and this won’t happen unless you have satisfied the customer by meeting all of their expectations.

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Privacy

Consumer awareness of child safety issues should not be underestimated. Tracks which are draw-corded can have cord tension devices fitted to reduce the potential hazard of cord entanglement.

Privacy is of key concern in bedrooms and bathrooms, an important factor to remind your customer. The amount of privacy needed will depend on location and your customers’ requirements. For example, if the room you are working on is located in a city, you will find most customers will want light during the day and complete privacy at night. Window furnishings/curtains can reduce the sound in the city, particularly with interlining.

TO MINIMISE RISK: •

Measure where you want the tension device fitted and supply this information to your supplier.

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Plan to remove the cord loop by anchoring the cord to the wall or floor so that young children and pets cannot become entangled.

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Request a much shorter cord to raise the cord above where the child can reach. Ensure your fitter is familiar with the installation of these devices.

MOKUM / SHIBORI OMBRE

Safety

DRA PERY

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