The First Threads

In many cultures, textiles stand as enduring symbols of heritage and identity, carrying the legacy of ancient artistry and time-honoured techniques. In Asia, the rich histories of some of the region’s oldest textiles are imbued with profound cultural significance, the story behind each fabric a complex tale of its origins.

Words: MIRABEL OKPLA

DRAPED IN TRADITION

India

Originating from the Sanskrit word meaning "strip of cloth," the sari has long stood as a symbol of cultural heritage. There are more than a hundred potential ways to drape a sari, creating a canvas for creativity that’s reflected in varied styles popular in India's different states, as well as the neighbouring countries of Pakistan, Bangladesh and Nepal.

The sari holds not only aesthetic appeal but also plays a practical role. It allows the wearer to conform to the modest-dress customs of both Hindu and Muslim communities and provides comfort in the region’s often challengingly hot climate.

STORIED GARMENTS

Bhutan

In the mountain kingdom of Bhutan, the gho and kira have remained steadfast symbols of unity and tradition for centuries. The gho, worn by men, is a knee-length robe that features a large, functional front pouch. It is mandatory attire for men who work in government sectors as well as schools and colleges. The kira, worn by women, is a graceful floor-length garment, carefully woven with vibrant hues and intricate patterns. Reserved for special occasions, the kira is a celebration of both femininity and Bhutanese identity.

Introduced in the 17th century by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, revered as the Great Unifier and founder of Bhutan, these garments were intended to reflect Bhutan’s distinct identity in a tangible expression of the country’s rich cultural heritage. They serve as an enduring link to Bhutan's storied past.

THE FABRIC OF A NATION

Indonesia

An ancient, wax-resist dyeing technique, batik has been practised for centuries across Indonesia. It’s a laborious process, requiring skilled hands and a keen eye for detail. Hot wax is meticulously applied to the fabric, creating intricate, dye-resistant designs. As the fabric is submerged, the unwaxed areas remain unaltered, revealing the beauty and precision of the artist’s technique. This delicate fusion between wax and dye yields fabrics of unparalleled beauty, where simple geometric shapes combine with elaborate motifs.

Batik holds special significance in Bali, where designs are characterised by bold colours and intricate patterns. The art form also earned global recognition from UNESCO as part of Indonesia’s Intangible Cutural Heritage in 2009, while October 2nd has been designated National Batik Day to honour the legacy of batik and its enduring importance in the nation's cultural identity.

HERITAGE ATTIRE

South Korea

Hanbok, traditional Korean clothing, was introduced in the late 19th century to differentiate Korean attire from Western fashion. From the colourful sleeves of children's garments to the intricate patterns adorning bridal attire, vibrant hues infuse hanbok with symbolism and significance, creating a canvas for the wearer's hopes and dreams. Rooted in the principles of yin and yang, each colour corresponds to one of the five elements. White represents metal, red symbolises fire, blue is wood, black signifies water and yellow represents earth.

WEAVING FORWARD

Japan

The story of wisteria weaving, using yarns made from the twisted fibres of wisteria bark, is one of resilience and revival. The practice dates back thousands of years to the prehistoric Jomon period. Once thought lost to time due to the rise of cotton, this tradition found new life in the hands of a group of dedicated women in the mountains of Kyotango in Kamesaya, a place steeped in silk heritage for more than 1300 years. The art is now preserved through an array of initiatives including classes that help pass techniques down to future generations.

On Chirimen Street, where historic buildings date back to the Edo period, you can immerse yourself in the wider heritage of Japanese fabrics. Try on authentic Chirimen silk kimonos and learn about traditions that have shaped Japan's textile landscape for centuries.

ANCIENT ORIGINS

Thailand

Revered for its luxurious texture and bright colours, silk holds a special place in Thai culture. Its origins can be traced back to the 13th century. The first mentions of Thai silk can be found recorded in the Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya. Within these ancient texts lie mentions of silk being used for clothing and ceremonial purposes by the royal court and aristocracy.

Today, silk is worn during special occasions as well as in everyday life, its importance still woven into the very fabric of society.

Stories in silk

In Bangkok, you can follow the story of Jim Thompson, an enigmatic former American intelligence officer turned silk entrepreneur. His name became synonymous with the revival of Thailand's silk industry in the mid-20th century. Through his efforts, traditional Thai weaving techniques were revitalised and new life brought to an ancient craft.

His sudden disappearance during a trip to the Malaysian highlands in 1967 remains one of the region’s most famous unsolved mysteries – yet the legacy of his passion endures. Visit the Jim Thompson House Museum for a glimpse into his extraordinary life. The teakwood mansion houses exquisite examples of Thai silk and artefacts collected on his travels.