24 Hours in the Serengeti

How do 24 hours unfold from a mobile safari camp in Tanzania’s epic Serengeti National Park? Come with us to experience the thrill of the Great Wildebeest Migration, one of Earth's most impressive wildlife spectacles, at the epicentre of the action with Wilderness Usawa Serengeti.

Words: EMILY OPIE

Picture a safari camp. Sun-bleached wooden poles reach skyward from the dusty earth and khaki canvases form stretched triangular shelters. A peek inside the tents reveals stylish furniture made from the local mringa ringa wood, sustainable ‘greenwood’ bathroom vanities and locally-sourced hand woven textiles, before the massive gauze panels draw your eye to the savannah outside. Now, put this camp in a remote part of Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park, far from the crowds and surrounded by the drama of the Great Wildebeest Migration. Welcome to Wilderness Usawa.

The team at Wilderness Usawa track and predict the movements of the migration, relocating the camp to one of its seven locations across the Serengeti to ensure guests land, literally, amid one of the world’s most epic natural spectacles.

Serengeti National Park is enormous, dwarfing its neighbour the Maasai Mara. While hundreds of thousands of wildebeest and zebras continuously move between the two parks, it’s the sheer scale of the Serengeti that makes it suitable for mobile safaris. Moving with the herds as their pace quickens or slows, sometimes unpredictably, is the key to immersive wildlife experiences.

But, how do you witness the frenetic energy of the so-called ‘circle of life’? How do you even begin to scratch the surface? Join us for 24 hours at Wilderness Usawa to get a sense of how safaris play out hour by hour.

DAY 1

10.45am: Start your journey on a sometimes bumpy, but always scenic light aircraft flight from Arusha, the typical international arrival point, bound for the Serengeti. A small duffle bag, your pilot, a handful of fellow passengers and a sense of adventure are all that accompany you on your journey.

11.00am: Touch down on a dirt landing-strip, a small wooden building and billowing orange windsock are the only indication that an airport exists here. Meet your Wilderness Safaris vehicle and guide, setting off on a game drive into camp.

12.00pm: It feels like the camp appears out of nowhere. Its tranquil luxury should jar against the wild land, yet the structures blend in and sit unassuming in their temporary home. Pull up to camp and meet the team. Smiles, handshakes, refreshing drinks and light snacks are offered, the chats about your journey and the introductions flow easily. As your bags are taken to your tent you’ll take a seat for the camp welcome briefing.a

1.00pm: A fresh and delicious lunch is served, as you sit together in the communal tent. Your guides will now begin to explain what happens next and your plan for the afternoon is formed. When lunch is finished and coffees have been sipped, you’ll be led to your tent, your home for the next few nights, to settle in.

3.00pm: High tea is served. You’ll then prepare your day bag (camera, spare batteries, sunglasses, a warm fleece) and it’s time to hop into the vehicle for your first official game drive, watching out for predators amidst the wildebeests and zebras.

6.00pm: Sundowners are served in the park. At Wilderness Usawa, sundowner spots are specially pre-arranged with rangers, allowing guests to alight from the vehicle and take in their surroundings. The glowing sunset slowly begins to dominate the never-ending skies that are synonymous with the Serengeti and it's time to head back to camp before darkness falls.

7.30pm: Weather permitting, a delicious dinner is served under the stars, next to a crackling campfire. There’s no light pollution in these remote areas and on clear nights it's possible to see the spellbinding milky way.

8.30pm: After dinner guests and guides sit round the campfire, reliving their highlights from the day and discussing what lies ahead tomorrow. The expertise and local knowledge of the guides is invaluable as they listen to guests' passions and make plans that are best suited to the current environment.

9.30pm: With a full day of safari experiences starting at dawn, most will choose to retire to their luxury tents. A member of the team will lead you through the campsite looking out for any wild visitors who may have wandered in unannounced. Dim lighting welcomes you as you step inside your tent. We recommend sleeping with the sheer gauze uncovered at least once during your stay, for a night drenched in the sounds of the bush, twinkling stars and pitch black mornings that slowly turn orange and pink as the sun rises.

6.00am: The smell of fresh coffee floats into the tent from mugs left just outside as part of your wake up call. Take a few moments to appreciate the morning sounds of the Serengeti before meeting your guides at the main tent for breakfast-snacks. All Wilderness Usawa locations are within the Serengeti’s walking zones, meaning that an all-senses walking safari excursion is possible straight from camp. Set out this morning with your guide and ranger to experience an authentic and peaceful connection to the land.

8.00am: Walk back into camp for a hearty breakfast. Once finished, freshen up with a hot shower, and then meet your guide in camp to get ready for the next activity.

9.00am: Today’s game drive will last the rest of the day, so there’s a sense of adventure as picnics, drinks, blankets and snacks are loaded into the vehicles. First stop will be the river to sit under the shade of an acacia tree, quietly watching the murky waters for signs of crocodiles awaiting their prey. The time of year and the location of the camp will determine the different wildlife you can view, such as wildebeest calving season which peaks in February.

12.00pm: A picnic lunch is served. Relax and use binoculars to search the horizon for game. After lunch, set off into the depths of the Serengeti for a complete immersion in this remote, beautiful destination, jampacked with wildebeest, zebras and of course, predators, just the start of what the next 24 hours have in store.

Our favourite camps

Serengeti National Park is home to a host of different mobile camps, here are some of our favourites:

Serengeti Safari Camp

The adventurous ethos here began many years ago with a couple of Land Rovers and second-hand safari gear. Now, Serengeti Safari Camp is a classic luxury camp with a roster of exceptional naturalist guides to help you follow the migration.

Songa Camp

A well-established camp that has two locations. One in the savannahs of Lamai in the north, and the other on the short grass plains of the south – covering the key migration routes. Both locations offer their own signature experiences, including meeting the Datoga tribe while staying in the south.

Olakira Migration Camp

Covering two important migration points, Olakira Migration Camp offers the chance to see either adrenaline-filled river crossings in the north or the birth of thousands of wildebeest calves in the south, as well as the lure of predators. The design of the tents facilitates sleeping beneath the stars, with an extended mesh area for experiencing the outdoors while remaining indoors.

Roving Bushtops

Pure luxury on the savannahs of the Seregenti, roving on wheels between two wildliferich locations. An innovative design sees the tent is packed into a trailer and assembled quickly, complete with a private deck area and luxury outdoor bath.