ETHOS MAGAZINE issue 1

ETHOS The problem with fashion.

Leeds old town: explore the past

Trends to make Britney proud

DISCOV ER

ETHOSvintage.com

IZZY HEBB

“Our Home”: A letter from ETHOS

Home is place important to all, it can be a place, person or a feeling. We are all familiar with the hardships of the past year and the ever-growing role of the home in our lives. As the same four walls encompassed our

the first edition of ETHOS mag will highlight the voices and places of the northern metropolis.

work and education lives, with it came an introspection on what home means for each one of us. Our home at ETHOS vintage is found in

the

Yorkshire city of Leeds. A city with a famed industrial past blending past architectural glory with sleek modern skyscrapers.

At

ETHOS

we

are

enthusiastic about combining vintage aesthetics to modern trends. A city steeped in history that continues to push boundaries inspires us deeply.In tribute to the northern powerhouse, the first edition of ETHOS mag will highlight the voices and places of our metropolis.

Welcome to Our Home.

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Kirkgate market pg 20-21

Contents

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General 3 Editors Letter

Izzy Hebb introduces the first edition of Ethos Magazine: “Our Home”.

10 Brand Profile: ETHOS

Who we are, our mission and morals.

Trends 7 90s vs y2k showdown

The new vintage battle on everyone’s mind.

8 Whose bringing a bag?

This summer’s lowdown on vintage accesories.

9 Double denim dream The trend we hate to love.

THE PROBLEM WITH FASHION.

Fast fashion contributes to a culture of waste. But how can we tackle the corporations responsible? pg 13-14

Arts and Culture 16-18 Our Voices: Poetry

A collection of poems on the theme of city living and climate change.

26 MEL BRIMFIELD IS: The Tetley

Mel Brimfield explores mental health and her own childhood in residency at The Tetley.

Spotlight 19 The Corn Exchange

Independent boutiques and grand parisian architecture.

20 Kirkgate Market Explore The Corn Exchange on pg 20

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A market steeped in history still in touch with it’s community roots.

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26-27

20-21

19-20

20-21

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“Disco-girl” sequin dress.

Shoes - stylists own.

90s vs 00s

Dress up this summer in the glammest outfits of our

childhoods. Mix sequins and whites to catch that ethereal glow under the club lights. Always think: What would Britney do? Search “90s vs 00s” on ETHOSvintage.com

“Cut it out” repurposed jumper, “Sporty-girl” crop top.

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g n i g n i r b u o y e r A a bag??

Summer is here and we declare the bum-bag

dead. Accessorise with a smaller purse with a cool vintage aesthetic. Be the saviour of a night out!

Find a bag for every occasion. All items on page available online.

Search “bags” on ETHOSvintage.com

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Team Double Denim Live

your inner Wild West. Double denim offers high versatility. Dress up, dress down? There’s a new rodeo in town.

Pair with a relaxed crop top/cami to keep the shade off during hot summers.

Search: “Double-Denim” on ETHOSvintage.com

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ETHOS Who we are ETHOSvintage established in 2020 as

Our promise In the face of ecological disaster, ETHOS

a vintage fashion brand with a forward-

promises to never back down on our core

thinking sustainable approach. At

values:

ETHOS, the independence of the brand is of utmost importance. It is

•

Operate on carbon neutral operations

this very independence that allows

including when outsourcing tasks

us to take a stand from inside the

(such as delivery of goods.)

fashion industry. A voice maybe unwanted by certain parts of the

•

Be

an

outspoken

advocate

of

industry but an important voice

sustainability and accountability in

that cannot be silenced. No matter

the industry.

how big or small, ETHOS believes every voice matters and counts in

•

the fight against the climate crisis.

Assist in the fashion waste crisis by upcycling or reusing fashion

Of course, fashion is also deeply

deadstock.

important to us. ETHOSvintage specialises in timeless trends sourced

Transparency

on

activities,

from unique, one of a kind vintage

admitting faults should they come

pieces. Drawing inspiration from our

up. (Check our transparency report

surroundings our clothes are picked

at ETHOSvintage.com)

and repurposed with the city-dwellers in mind.

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•

La Bohème in-store // online

THE PROBLEM WITH FASHION. Corporations are responsible for the majority of fashion waste. How do we hold them responsible?

Izzy Hebb

350,000 tons of

perfectly

fine,

wearable

fashion waste in the UK.

clothes are dumped in landfills

cheaply-made

across the UK each year (source:

formula has made fast-fashion a

clothes

the

consumer favourite. A quick, easy

problem is unprecedented, with

outfit for a night clubbing, or an

true numbers impossible to pin-

on-trend seasonal essential item

aid).

Globablly

short-lived

point. The common discourse often blames

makes it a favourite of fashion consumers, not

the end consumer for not disposing of clothing

to mention the dirt-cheap prices garments are

properly. The problem is much bigger than us.

marketed at online. Predictably, this results in

The problem is fashion. The fashion industry is addicted to

cheaply-made,

quickly-

sold plastic garments. Of the 350,000 tons of waste, the industry is directly responsible

“The fashion industry is addicted to cheaply-made, quickly-sold plastic garments.”

for 231,000 tons. That equates to 66% of all

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and

The

overwhelming amount of plastic waste. Known as “micro-fibres”, these plastics do not degrade. the plastics filter into the eco-system.

From

the

important

oxygen-

producing phytoplankton to hu-

man drinking water, there is zero escape from

plastic. The other main “solution”

of goods in the marketplace. It is

is to burn fashion waste. This also

every interaction a corporation has

poses problems in the form of toxic

with the consumer. The most simple,

pollution. So, why are fashion end-

and most effective, method is to stop

point consumers being

“often fast-fashion is the only affordable option”

blamed for the waste problem? An active cam-

with unfavourable track records in fashion waste.

paign of shifting responsibility to

However, as idealistic as this may

the regular people successfully helps

sound, often fast-fashion is the

evade prying eyes on the waste

only affordable option for many in

problems within the industry itself.

the UK. Marketing pressure can be

The problem is exacerbating with

used in other ways. Online-exclusive

each passing year. More and more

brands constantly monitor social

fast-fashion

enter

media feedback directly to them

the market place. Most recently,

or indirectly, say through a twitter

competition for the UK based brands

keyword search of the brand’s name.

corporations

in the form of Chinese and US based fast-fashion brands.

These quicker

brands turn

have around

much on

currently selling items due to the manufacturing power-

“It is time to take a stand against this unethical business model.”

Let them and your followers know

about

the

and

unethical

problems practises.

Write to journalists, media personalities, and influencers.

Social media allows voices to

houses of their home countries.

be amplified by those with a bigger

It is time to take a stand against

following. The solution is to -make-

this unethical business model. As

people care about the issues. The

consumers it is time to shine the

old cliche of “raising awareness” has

spotlight back onto the corporations

never been so effective as the age of

responsible, but how can we do

social media. It is time to put the

that as outsiders and consumers

responsibility of the 350,000 tons of

in the industry? The answer lies in

fashion waste directly on the fashion

marketing pressure. Marketing is

industry.

simply the act of buying and selling

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purchasing from brands

p

poetry An Ode to the City The planes, the trains the dancing feet.

The city sleeps with me

I An ode to the hustle, the bustle, the people who cheer to themselves.

I hear the cars chase each other down the empty boulevard, gleefully.

Hang on to the memory of the smoked concrete jungle; it’s dwellers swinging left to right through eclectic haze windshield.

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Izzy Hebb

poetry

Weltschmertz/Daybreak

Weltschmertz, My heart breaks wide open, For every woman pedalling her sewing machine 14 hours without a break taking earth as a gift to wreck as we see fit; imperfect by nature we all do our bit.

Can’t we stop all the destruction and match it with action: pool compassion, quit fast fashion.

My heart breaks into a million pieces and pours out pain and anguish For those who long for safety and security, shelter and sustenance.

My heart breaks open and love pours out If I pour it all out will it be enough?

C an I make a difference to those who have it so tough?

Our hearts all beat in time It is our responsibility, yours and mine, for everyone to be fine.

And until we reach the solution: no more suffering, stealing and pollution.

My heart will continue to break, and pour, and pour some more, because only from heartbreak will come the cure.

Make ‘save our world’ our new caption.

A light in the gloom, one sliver of hope, With the burden of knowledge my eyes are wide open.

As humans we join to solve our emergency.

The love within us all truly must be our crutch, We have here and now to change and create.

I pray we succeed before it is too late.

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Liz Cass

p

poetry At Night Reach out for the day, the sun and the crimes.

Follow the night and all it stands for: the party, the people, the pride.

Neon lights, neon lines: the everything of humankind.

She told the truth: “I have no idea what I’m doing” Bitterly they follow.

A time to forget the bullshit and the lies.

You can be anyone after 9pm.

A dreamer, a dancer, a zealot.

The morning light is Just another reason to sleep.

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Izzy Hebb

spotlight

The Corn Exchange Izzy Hebb

The beating oval heart of the old town stands as

“the vintage scene here draws inspiration from differentiation”

the grand jewel of the city. Situated a few hundred metres from the shopping behemoths of

Briggate and Victoria

Gate. From Call Lane, it’s dome is unmissable.Built in typical Victorian splendour in 1863, it stands today as a haven for the independant traders and brands of Leeds. Around 20 stores fill the spacious hall. Free from the ubercorporate marketing atmosphere of the high street, the Corn Exchange hosts unique, picture-postcard shops.

Along the inner rim of the building: lively boutiques and gift shops offers extrodinarily unique pieces. Specialist stores line the upper balcony: a beautiful plant shop greets you at the top of the stairs, it’s jungle inviting you in. Other specialist offerings include a camera shop and an acoustic guitar specialist. The corn exhange operates on a hybrid of goods and bespoke services filling a surprising amount of needs for those specialist projects.

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Fashion highlights in the corn exhange include: The alternatively vintage focused brand “The Alt Box”, the sweet handmade charms and accesories of Fabrikk, and the cool, edgy vintage inspired streetwear of MKI MIYUKI ZOKU. Vintage fashion is driven by the one of a kind experience these boutiques offer. The vintage scene here draws inspiration from differentiation; every corner of this domed behemoth holds carefully curated, hand-crafted accessories and attire. If standing out in unique outfits is your thing, the Corn Exchange is a mustsee. Walking the grand looping balconies of the Parisian inspired pavilion, it is easy to imagine the same sense of wonder this building has filled people with for 158 years.

Long live the independent Corn Exhange.

Main hall and atrium of the Corn Exchange

Foyer of boutique “Fabrikk”

Balcony outside entrance for access to upper level shops

spotlight Kirkgate Market

Izzy Hebb

Discover a market steeped in history progressing into the modern age.

NESTLED

in the

Along with the usual residents of

heart of Leeds old town since 1857,

kirkgate market are special events

the city would simply not be the same

and trade fairs. Hosted in the latest

without it. Surviving bombings during

expansion to the market known as the

the Second World War along with

event space. Record and book fairs are

devastating fires in 1975, the market is

held monthly, as is the one of a kind

no stranger to the history books. After-

vintage market specialising in 50s/early

all, Marks and Spencers opened their

60s pieces. Cultural representation is

first shop within these hallowed halls.

found in the Asian Bazaar every week

It’s four halls contain over 600 stands,

offering traditional Asian and Indian

stalls and cafeteria. The market offers

products such as silk saris, spice by

retail

areas.

the scoop and vivid jewellry. The Asian

and

Bazaar is a highlight of the Kirkgate

curios meet you in the twists and turns

calendar offering a glimpse into an

of the old halls. While florists, butchers

integral community of West Yorkshire.

opportunities

Fashion,

homeware,

in

all

jewellry

and fishmongers line the 1980 hall.

with

digital

market

137 years after the baroque doors

specialists “Marketti” modernisation

opened, Kirkgate Market still boasts

efforts keep traders up to date with

a

it’s

consumer needs including much needed

diverse

card payment updates. Perhaps for

range of goodies. Working or living in

Europe’s largest indoor market steeped

the city makes Kirkgate a must-shop

in history, it’s future fortunes may well

destination for fresh produce from

just lay in modernising this cultural

independant traders from the comfort

diamond.

huge

gorgeous

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Working

popularity architecture

owing and

of your usual surroundings.

to

“The Asian Bazaar is a highlight of the Kirkgate calendar offering a glimpse into an integral community of West Yorkshire.”

“Fashion, homeware, jewellry and curios meet you in the twists and turns of the old halls.”

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Search: “Skate Store” on ETHOSvintage.com

This page: Courtney wears “coord.groove” Accessories stylists own.

Opposite: Jake wears “Kingpin” shirt with “Green Machine” shorts. Boots stylist’s own. available at ETHOSvintage.com

MEL BRIMFIELD IS NUTS In residence at The Tetley: an exploration into mental health through the frame of nostalgia

VISUAL ARTIST

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words: Izzy Hebb

Mel

Next, the bright, airy atrium presents

Brimfield has unveiled the newest

itself. A circle of chairs surrounding

installation in her reportoire. “From

a golden tree fill the centre while a

This World, to That Which Is to

tapestry overlooks the proceedings.

Come” finds it’s home in the Leeds

An offshoot from the atrium reveals

based Gallery The Tetley. Brimfield

a recording booth. A gloomy red

embarked on a two-year long research

atmosphere fills the tight space as the

residency based in Bethlem Hospital’s

headphones beckon you to interact.

National Psychosis unit to prepare

In the headphones, a bored voice

for the installation, From her work

actor and a frustrated producer are

collating interviews and conducting

attempting to get through an extract

workshops with patients, nurses, and

of Kafka’s “metamorphis”, a comment

activists; Brimfield displays a deep

on the interal struggle of personality

understanding and empathy of the

disorders. The final stage of the

sociatal struggle with mental illness.

exhibit holds a dark room playing a

From the opening paintings, two

nine minute extract from the 70s “The

Tintin inspired comics titled “The Lost

Incredible Hulk” scored with classical

Marbles”, Brimfield introduces the

music representing psychotic episodes

motif of childhood nostalgia. A motif of

and the resulting aftermath of one.

nostalgia and childlike wonder finds

Often in the exhibit, Brimfield uses

itself symbiotically linked throughout

contrasting aesthetics of whimsy and

the

foreboding seriousness often combining

remainder

of

the

exhibition.

Top: The Giant despair part II Middle: UNGEZIEFER Bottom: STAND (All Mel Brimfield, 2020)

the

two

to create an

Alice in

Wonderland-esque atmosphere. The feeling of distant comfort and vague nostalgia. A regression to childhood memories and ideas in the throes of mental health issues. Mel Brimfield simply displays

her

best: a hard-

hitting, well-researched installation capturing a zeitgeist society is feeling now more than ever. Maybe the installation doesn’t offer any solutions to this crisis, but instead records the unheard voices and feelings, an important task for societal progress.

“From This World, to That Which Is to Come” is free at The Tetley Leeds or via digital exhibition at thetetley.org

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The Tetley 12-14 Hunslet Road, Leeds, GB LS10 1JQ