Issuu

Winter 2022

Function and Fashion for the Wrist

TAG Heuer

UPDATES AQUARACER PROFESSIONAL 200 BLUE SHARK

Delma Dives Deep

SPACE RACE

Vostok-Europe Recalls the Era

SPORTLINE COLOR Waldan Adds Dial Hues

RULE OF THREE

Luminox Expands Bear Grylls Set

RETRO CHRONO

Joseph Bulova Returns in Style

©t 2022 Seiko Watch of America. SPB143 12859_Prospex_iW_CoverSpread_SPB143.indd 1

FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT SEIKOLUXE.COM

12/21/21 5:55 PM

ED IT O R - I N - C HI E F Gary George Girdvainis gary@isochronmedia.com

Is Sapphire King? If you think about it, there are effectively four types of watch crystals; sapphire, mineral, acrylic/polycarbonate and, to a lesser extent, various versions of Corning’s Gorilla Glass. There are also coatings for both scratch resistance and light refraction, but that’s a different topic. Focus on the current dogma that dictates sapphire is king and THE preferred material for better watches. After all, it’s almost scratch proof, so how can anything else compare? While I do appreciate the nearly scratch-proof nature of sapphire crystals, I’ve also experienced their weaknesses, and I’m willing to bet I’m not the only one. Whether my catastrophic shattered crystal at the airport X-ray, or the time I smashed it into a door handle at home – sapphire might not take scratches, but it will and does fail completely when subjected to impact. It looked like new - until suddenly it didn’t. Next stop, a somewhat costly repair that may necessitate a full disassembly to remove any shards that may have found their way into the nether regions of your watch. How it shattered is irrelevant, but at that moment of destruction, I’m certain most owners would have wished for a tougher option that would have withstood the particular impact. In my experience, sapphire is best utilized as a flat crystal with its poor optical qualities mitigated by the use of (internal only) antireflective coatings. While domed versions are also popular, they do add additional risk for lateral impact but the light reflection may not be as attenuated. One sapphire shape that I will rail against right here is the “boxed” crystals. These rise vertically from the bezel with a small step, and while they revisit a popular shape from vintage watches, the originals were almost always crafted from acrylic (hesalite) and were much tougher on impacts than the newer favorite sapphire. Acrylic crystals do scratch easier, but they are optically superior, mechanically tougher, and relatively easy to buff out – or in the worst-case scenario, inexpensive to replace. If you do find a way to crack an acrylic crystal, they simply don’t shatter the same way a sapphire will, and repairs tend to be limited to the cost of the xtal and the basic installation. In my opinion, mineral crystals are the worst of both worlds. While they are more scratch resistant than Hesalite, they are not nearly as tough. They are harder to break than sapphire, but will take scratches. In my experience mineral crystals in watchmaking should be reserved for exhibition backs only, where the likelihood of scratch or impact are nominal, and reflection of light less important. Based on what I’ve learned, I’m almost certain that the Gorilla Glass (DX+ or Victus) is the very best material that ticks all the boxes. The only problem is that Corning does not make it easy for any watch brand to get the good stuff. Some smaller brands have used older versions of the glass, but the top-of-the-line materials are difficult to acquire (unless you are Apple, Android, or Nokia) and – if it matters, they are also fabricated in China. I know a lot of experts out there may not agree with me, but after three decades of experience, contact with collectors and constant interactions with certified and master watchmakers, my opinion has evolved from a “Sapphire is King”, to a more rounded appreciation of what these materials are, and are not. It’s AboutTime – To look through the right glass. Gary George Girdvainis

4 | AboutTime Magazine

Character starts on your wrist.

Meister fein Automatic 27/4154.00

DISTRIBUTED BY DKSH North America Inc 350 Clark Drive Ste. 325 Mount Olive, NJ 07828 Tel:+1 609.750.8800 sales@dksh.com

JH_AZ_27_4154_00_DKSH_USA_AboutTimeMagazine_0521.indd 1

Since the 1930s the finest watches of the company have borne the Meister appellation. They continue to feature a skilful blend of the fascination with watchmaking and aesthetic design. Junghans Meister fein Automatic: Self-winding movement, waterresistant up to 5 bar. www.junghans.de

07.05.21 10:34

VIDE O E DI T O R MARC FRANKEL Video Editor Youtube channel https://www.youtube.com/user/islandwatchdotcom

Assembling a watch. How hard can it be? Having embraced the watch modification culture, I have assembled many watches in my time. I consider myself an experienced amateur, at best, but I can accomplish the task. For those who have modded their own watches, how often have you completed the mod, only to find in bright sunlight there is dust on your dial? Or your hour and minute hand alignment is not perfect. For the inexperienced, it seems simple. You have a bunch of parts. Just slap them together. How hard can it be? Well, VERY! In January, I was fortunate enough to visit the Fine Timepiece Solutions USA (FTS) headquarters located in Fountain Hills, Arizona. FTS is assembling some up-and-coming Islander models, and I was very excited to visit and see first-hand how watches are built (in America, no less!) What immediately struck me is the organization involved. We are not talking prototype production. This is full-fledged production; hundreds of watches pass through the facility every week. The techniques and procedures you use in the modding community are out the window!

Here, everything is kitted. Think “assembly line”, but with watches. A kit arrives at a trained technician’s station - for example,

mounting a dial. The motion of installing dial spacer, dial and then inspection is performed at a rate of one per minute. Watching the hands quickly move through the motions makes you realize that practice makes perfect. Setting hands is my nemesis. I despise it. I can spend a few minutes just mounting a seconds hand. At FTS, I watched a technician expertly mount an hour, minute and seconds hand, all with hand tools, in just a minute or so. Amazing!

This ballet continues all the way through the assembly process, and culminates in an assembled watch that is built with the high-

est quality. All of this is done under the watchful eye of the head watchmaker, in a clean room environment. It is quite the dichotomy when compared to how watch modding works. The production environment requires repeatability coupled with quality. There is no time to take it apart and take out dust! Thank you for reading, and thank you for watching.

Marc Frankel, Video Editor

6 | AboutTime Magazine

Grand Flieger Airport The Grand Flieger Airport Chronograph with ceramic bezel in Military Green. Reliability, precision and optimal legibility. Created with exactly that perfection which has made the predicate “Made in Glashütte” into a world-famous promise of quality. Discover more at www.tutima.com.

MADE FOR THOSE WHO DO. To obtain further information in North America, please contact: TUTIMA USA, INC. · (310) 782-3500 · INFO@TUTIMAUSA.COM · WWW.TUTIMA.COM

IW AD TEMPLATE.indd 72

12/20/20 10:05 AM

CONTENTS

Find AboutTime on Facebook Follow AboutTime on Twitter

FEATURES 40 COLORFUL G-SHOCK SCORES

A SECOND COLLABORATION WITH NBA STAR RUI HACHIMURA

44 ORIGINALITY APPEALS

ISOTOPE’S AVANT-GARDE AESTHETIC

48 SPACE RACE

VOSTOK-EUROPE RECALLS THE ERA

56 RULE OF THREE

LUMINOX EXPANDS BEAR GRYLLS SET

58 ITALIAN SPYDER

AN INTERVIEW WITH FERRUCCIO LAMBORGHINI

64 GOOD GRIEF GANG

SWATCH’S LATEST FUN TIME IS ALL PEANUTS

TAG HEUER

UPDATES AQUARACER

DEPARTMENTS 10

MECHANICAL PICKS

24 34

DRIVE TIME

40 50

8 | AboutTime Magazine

MARITIME COOL QUARTZ AMERICAN BRANDS

#20 1970 Porsche 917K in the movie Le Mans

M1 - WOODWARD

Le Mans Classic Chronograph 42 mm custom built Swiss automatic Valjoux 7750. Exhibition caseback with sapphire crystal showcasing a fully decorated movement and M1 rotor. Black leather padded strap with orange stitching. Available exclusively at

www.detroitwatchcompany.com 1968 Le Mans winner GT40 chassis 1075

1969 Le Mans winner GT40 chassis 1075

PONTCHARTRAIN

MECHANICALS

GUIDE to AFFORDABLE MECHANICALS BULOVA ADDS A NEW CHRONOGRAPH TO ITS JOSEPH BULOVA COLLECTION, A SET OF AUTOMATIC WATCHES WITH DESIGNS INSPIRED BY BULOVA WATCHES MADE IN THE 1920S TO THE 1940S. This latest addition to the retro-styled collection is a three-subdial, 42mm steel-cased chronograph offered with either a black dial with rose-gold tone accents or a silver white dial with blue-tone accents. While the new watch is larger than the original, and it now shows chronograph timing using three-subdials instead of two, the new model retains several features that contributed to the character of the original watch. The original features retained by Bulova include the telemeter scale around the perimeter of the dial, a domed crystal, railroad-track scales around the subdials and distinctive, squared chronograph pushers. In addition, Bulova has transferred the dial font and hand style from the original onto the new Joseph Bulova chronograph. Of course, updates for both aesthetic and technical reasons are inevitable. For this piece, these include using anti-reflective sapphire to create the domed crystal, a day/date window and an exhibition caseback, exposing the rotor. Inside you’ll find a Swiss-made Sellita SW-500 chronograph caliber with a 48-hour power reserve. Bulova is offering either style on a black leather strap engraved with Joseph Bulova’s signature on the inside. And Bulova offers each watch in the Joseph Bulova collection as a limited edition of 350. Price: $2,495.

10 | AboutTime Magazine

AboutTime Magazine | 11

MECHANICALS

ALPINA STARTIMER PILOT HERITAGE CHRONOGRAPH Alpina already offers one of the finer retro-styled, cushioncased GMT watches we’ve seen recently with its Startimer Pilot Heritage collection, which debuted in 2018. Now this sporty brother of Geneva Manufacture Frederique Constant adds a new chronograph to its Startimer Pilot Heritage collection, and seals the deal by fitting the watch with a mono-pusher chronograph built into Caliber AL-727 in conjunction with La Joux-Perret. Using this storied movement manufacturing company makes perfect sense, given that Alpina’s parent company, Citizen, also owns La Joux-Perret. Alpina says it opted for the single-pusher chronograph here to recall early 20th century Alpina chronographs, many of which utilized such a bi-compax (two-subdial) arrangement. The new case, with its chronograph pusher at 2 o’clock, echoes that choice with polished sides and a satin-finished top with circular guilloché counters. The watch’s hour and minute hands are coated with SuperLumiNova, and the screw-down crown and caseback guarantee water resistance to 100 meters. The bi-compax chronograph measures short time intervals (30 minutes) and offers a 55-hour power reserve, which Alpina says is almost 45% more than earlier Alpina automatic chronographs. Offered with either an all-blue or silver dial, or a blue dial with silvered tachymeter and red chronograph hands, the 42mm by 40.75mm steel-cased watch is priced at $2,795.

12 | AboutTime Magazine

DAYNIGHT SCUBA AUTOMATIC T-100 TRITIUM Swiss made Tritium Tubes MB Microtec T-100 Technology  Swiss made Sellita Sw-200-1 Automatic Movement 26 Jewels  44mm Stainless Steel Case  500m/1650ft Water resistant  Ceramic Luminous Unidirectional Divers Bezel  Scratch resistant Sapphire Crystal  13 Flat Tritium Tubes on Wave pattern Dial

www.deepbluewatches.com

718-484-7717

info@deepbluewatches.com

MECHANICALS

JUNGHANS THE JUNGHANS MEISTER CHRONOSCOPE EXUDES ELEGANCE This latest example of the already impressive Junghans Meister Chronoscope might just be the collection’s most handsome. Its 40.7mm diameter case size fits perfectly on most wrists while its curved convex crystal, slim markers and clean dial design make for an easy-to-read chronograph that trades sportiness for style. The retro-styled Meister Chronoscope, which alongside the Junghans Max Bill Chronoscope variation has been a long-time favorite at the About Time office, rightly claims the ‘Meister’ designation, which German-based Junghans places only its high-end lines. Those familiar with the brand may be aware that it debuted its first Meister collections in the 1930s. By 1956 the company was the third-largest producer of chronometers in the world, and in 1957 Junghans debuted its first automatic chronometer (Calibre J83), a movement still in demand among collectors. This latest Junghans Meister Chronoscope exudes elegance with a rich dark blue color both on its sunray dial and its luxurious alligator leather strap. The blue plays nicely off the PVD-coated gold steel case, while gold-hued hands and four primary indexes underscore the watch’s dressy appeal. Inside Junghans applies its nicely re-finished J880.1, an automatic chronograph caliber based on the reliable ETA Valjoux 7750. A mineral crystal on the caseback allows a clear view of the rhodium-plated, striped finishing on the caliber. Junghans notes that the owner can request a sapphire crystal to replace the shaped plexiglass version supplied to protect the dial on this watch. However, given the extra effort Junghans expends to source its plexiglass and its coating, I’m not certain many take the offer. Junghans says for its crystals it uses a Sicralan MRL UV coating method originally developed for suppliers to the automotive industry. The clear coating results in increased scratch resistance, improved resistance to ultraviolet light and chemicals, all while adding an intense, deep gloss to the plexiglass. Price: $2,095.

14 | AboutTime Magazine

MECHANICALS

ALEXANDER SHOROKHOFF ALEXANDER SHOROKHOFF SEES YOU WITH CRAZY EYES Alexander Shorokhoff honors Austrian artist Gustav Klimt with Crazy Eyes, a chronograph dominated by a colorful dial and its two eyelike orbs. While these orbs replace the running seconds and chronograph minute subdials, additional ‘eyes’ seem to bounce around a dial further animated with colorful shapes and colors. The German-based Alexander Shorokhoff is also celebrating its 30th anniversary with Crazy Eyes, which could also describe how the Russian-born independent watchmaker often approaches creating his company’s watch dials. You might recall his Kandy and Levels models, just two of the colorful and Pop-Art-influenced watches included within the brand’s Avant-Garde collection. Shorokhoff says that the “eyes” on this new watch’s dial are meant to “transmit a sense of joy, enthusiasm and mobility, literally dancing on the scene of the shiny dial.” He combines multiple layers on the dial using different materials, including mother-of-pearl, brass and luminescence. At the top of the dial, however, Shorokhoff retains a prominent 60, which appears on all his designs to symbolize both the 60-second/minute position as well as the arts movements of the 1960s, where the watchmaker draws much of his inspiration. Inside Shorokhoff fits a Russian-made Poljot caliber 3133, which his company has partially skeletonized, hand-engraved and refined. He explains that the caliber, now discontinued, is based on the Valjoux 7734 movement and was produced at the First Moscow Watch Factory from 1976 to 2004. To complement the Crazy Eyes dial, Shorokhoff attaches a matching stingray strap colored bright yellow. He offers two 39mm case options, steel and plated gold, for those who want to extend the yellow color theme to the case. Each case option, however, will only be made in a limited edition of thirty pieces, with the gold-plated model priced with a $100 premium. Prices: $2,300 (steel case) and $2,400 (gold-plated case).

16 | AboutTime Magazine

AboutTime Magazine | 17

MECHANICALS

BULOVA BULOVA LEGACY Bulova’s off-kilter classic was an especially popular design among doctors and nurses in the 1960s. Called the “Alpha”, the asymmetrical watch stood out not only for the unusual shape, but also the four-quadrant dial, which laid the foundation of later versions that would add markings that allowed quicker calculations of pulse and respiration rates. The modern 505 Legacy collection emulates the 1965 original at a scant 33mm with limited editions of 500 available in either silver tone stainless steel with black strap or a gold tone stainless steel version with brown strap. Inside beats an automatic winding 26-jewel movement with a crown moved to the four o’clock position that accents the eccentricity of the shape. Priced from $1,390 to $1,450.

18 | AboutTime Magazine

MECHANICALS

TUTIMA TUTIMA’S STURDY DIVER GOES GREEN (AND YELLOW) Tutima adds two models to its excellent M2 Seven Seas dive watch collection, and both catch the eye with new steel cases and interesting gradient dials. Instead of titanium cases, the newest M2 Seven Seas collection adds an S to its name to denote a premiere use of a brushed and partially polished 43mm stainless steel case. The new M2 Seven Seas S offers a yellow or green dial, but with a twist. In the center, each dial option invites the viewer to enjoy the color’s slowly darkening hue until the color turns darkest along its periphery. Glashütte-based Tutima then continues the gradient effect by enlisting the leather bracelet, which is colored to match the green on the dial of both new models. Of course, Tutima offers a steel bracelet as well for those who prefer a more traditional approach. The unidirectional rotating bezel with a marker at the “12” is both functional and eye-catching. The 44mm watch retains the collection’s full array of dive-ready specifications, including a screwed crown, threaded caseback and, critically, an extra-thick (3mm) pane of sapphire crystal protecting the dial. As is required on a dive watch, the hands and markers here wide and exceptionally easy to read. Tutima enhances that visibility by placing a generous coat of SuperLuminova on the markers, hands and the dot at the 12 o’clock position. Tutima’s use of both a screw-in caseback and an extra-thick crystal contribute to the very strong 500-meter water resistance rating for the M2 Seven Seas series. Inside the M2 Seven Seas Tutima places its automatic ETA-based Caliber 330 that exhibits a standard 38-hour power reserve when fully wound. Prices: $1,900 (leather strap) and $2,300 (steel bracelet).

20 | AboutTime Magazine

AboutTime Magazine | 21

MECHANICALS

22 | AboutTime Magazine

FORMEX While the somewhat proforma iterations in standard charcoal and ash grey will appeal to the more conservative crown-twisting crowd, watch fans looking to add a bit of bold to their own dreams of field watches will love these striking new colors from Formex. Housed in a 41mm hardened titanium case, Formex’s new Field automatic takes on a funkified retro look with a modern appeal by incorporating Petrol Blue, Mahogany Red, Sage Green, and Ultra Violet dial options to create a tension between homage and “oh my”. Rated to 150 meters of water resistance and featuring a screw-down crown and an anti-reflective sapphire on top, the hardened housing hosts a Swiss Sellita SW 200-1 automatic winding movement ticking away at 28,800 vph with a power reserve of 41 hours when fully wound. Both NATO and leather strap options are available - as is the Formex patented micro-adjust carbon composite clasp. Prices range from $795 on the NATO to $945 on a fine leather strap.

AboutTime Magazine | 23

DRIVE TIME

TAG HEUER Honors Ayrton Senna

TAG Heuer pays tribute to famed Brazilian racecar champion Ayrton Senna with TAG Heuer Formula 1 Senna Special Edition 2021, a new Formula 1 watch that features the racer’s yellow and black color scheme. You’ll see yellow echoed on the famous double S (the Brazilian driver’s iconic brand) atop the bezel at 12 o’clock near Senna’s name as well as at 6 o’clock within the subdial. Ayrton Senna was Formula 1 World Champion in 1988, 1989, and 1999. In addition, yellow frames each subdial and the date window. Even the bracelet’s leather, embossed to echo TAG Heuer’s link-shaped bracelet, is stitched in yellow. Finally, the black ceramic bezel is accented with a yellow border. TAG Heuer continues its commemoration of Senna on the back of the TAG Heuer Senna Special Edition 2021. The watchmaker has placed an image of Senna’s helmet, engraved with SENNA SPECIAL EDITION. TAG Heuer fits the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Senna Special Edition 2021 with a quartz movement and has made the case water-resistant to 200 meters. Price: $2,300.

24 | AboutTime Magazine

DRIVE TIME

TIME

DRIVE TIME

AboutTime Magazine | 25

DRIVE TIME

Frederique Constant

Unveils Newest Ode to Austin-Healey

For seventeen summers Frederique Constant has released a new Vintage Rally limited edition series, which the Geneva-based watchmaker dedicates to collectors of classic Austin-Healey vintage automobiles. The annual debut rarely disappoints, and the 2021 releases are no exception. This 2021 highlight is an all-grey Vintage Rally Healey Automatic Small Seconds, with a range of the contemporary color on its dial, strap, steel case, index hour markers and hands. The dressy 40mm watch sports the original Healey logo on the dial, just adjacent to the off-center small seconds hand at 9 o’clock. Around the decidedly matte dial is the flange displaying the sixty-minute scale. Frederique Constant has engraved each watch’s caseback with a Healey automobile in action. (See next page for additional technical details). Frederique Constant will make 888 examples of the grey-dialed Vintage Rally Healey Automatic Small Seconds, with each arriving in a gift set alongside a miniature replica of a vintage Austin-Healy automobile.

26 | AboutTime Magazine

DRIVE TIME

TIME

DRIVE TIME

CUSTOM GREEN For buyers outside the United States, or by special order in the United States, two additional Vintage Rally watches are also available. For these ‘international models” Frederique Constant offers a SPECIFICATIONS

green dial and a blue dial, both colors that allude to the Austin-Healey

Frederique Constant Vintage Rally Healey Automatic

company. One model features British racing green while the other

Small Seconds (Limited edition of 888)

offers a dial in navy blue within a rose gold-plated case. This model’s

Movement: ETA-based FC-345 automatic caliber with 38hour power reserve. Case: 40mm by 11.15mm polished steel, two-part case, convex sapphire crystal, engraved case-back with Healey Noj 393 vintage car. Water resistant to 50 meters.

hour markers, hands and crown are also navy blue, which is hinted on the leather strap as well. Only the grey model ($1,595) is available in the United States. As noted, the two “international” models are available here only by special order. Prices: $2,175 (blue dial/rose-gold plated case) and $1,957 (green dial, steel case).

Dial: Grey with matte finishing, white inner ring with printed seconds graduation, silver color applied indexes with white luminous treatment, hand-polished silver color hour and minute hands with white luminous treatment, small seconds counter at 9 o’clock w/red hand, date window at 3 o’clock. Strap: Grey calf leather with light grey stitching. Price: $1,595

AboutTime Magazine | 27

TAG

28 | AboutTime Magazine

A Sleeker

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200

AG Heuer continues to update its Aquaracer collection with a thinner, more refined version of its Aquaracer Professional 200.

Echoing updates TAG Heuer made to its Aquaracer Professional

300 dive watch last year, these changes to the Aquaracer Professional 200 also result in a thinner and slightly smaller design while also retaining the technical specifications of what TAG Heuer calls its “all-terrain luxury tool watch.” Those specifications include the same six design points TAG Heuer has built into the collection since 2004, the year Aquaracer debuted. These include: a unidirectional rotating bezel; a screw-down crown; water resistance to at least 200 meters; luminous markings; a sapphire crystal; and a double safety clasp. To create the new automatic Aquaracer 200 Professional, TAG Heuer combines these guideposts with a more wrist-friendly size

AboutTime Magazine | 29

TAG

(40mm versus 41mm in its previous iteration) and a more sophisticated black or blue sunray dial finish. (Seven quartz-powered Aquaracer 200 Professional collection watches will also be available in both 40mm and 30mm case sizes, and two automatic models measure 30mm in diameter.)

STEEL BEZEL In addition to the smaller dimensions, TAG Heuer replaces the former model’s ceramic bezel diving scale with an eye-catching, engraved twelve-facet steel bezel. The new design features a polished central bracelet link, adding extra style to what is primarily an all-weather sport watch. Those familiar with last year’s updates to the Aquaracer Professional 300 will see similar sartorial touches with the Aquaracer Professional 200 update. Note the same refined, repeating horizontal lines on the dial and the sculpted, shorter lugs with brushed and polished finishes.

30 | AboutTime Magazine

AboutTime Magazine | 31

TAG

But unlike the deep dive watch’s decidedly sporty dial, the dial on the new Aquaracer Professional 200 is more classically finished. You’ll see straight-edged, trapezoidal hour markers, thinner swordshaped hands, and crisper detailing across the dial. TAG Heuer notes that while it has still coated the watch’s hour

references, while at 30mm there are two automatics and five quartz options. These choices differ markedly from the options available with the 2021 Aquaracer Professional 300 update, which is only available with an automatic movement. In summary, the automatic Aquaracer

markers and hands with SuperLuminova, its dial makers have added

Professional 200 models sport gradient dials, date windows, sweeping

no luminescent material to the bezel. The result, according to the

seconds hands and more detailed minute tracks. The quartz model

watchmaker, is a “more sartorial look” for the Aquaracer Profes-

dials are simpler and display no date, though several models offer

sional 200.

diamond accents.

As noted above, TAG Heuer is offering the new Aquaracer

Prices: $2,500 (40mm automatic), $1,850 (40mm quartz),

Professional 200 models with a choice of movements and sizes.

$3,200 (30mm automatic), $2,500 to $4,550 (30mm quartz with

Within the 40mm collection, there are two automatic and two quartz

diamonds), $1,800 (30mm quartz).

32 | AboutTime Magazine

MARITIME

NEW DELMA BLUE SHARK DIVES DEEP Independent Swiss watchmaker Delma continues to swim with the sharks with a new dive watch made to venture far deeper than most of its similarly priced competitors. The new Delma Blue Shark III Black Edition, water resistant to an incredible 4,000 meters, retains this collection’s very sporty technical features, including professional-level helium escape valve and crown protection, but now offers added protection of a scratch resistant black DLC coating on its 47mm steel case. Built as a limited edition of 300 pieces, the new watch is hypervisible on a diver’s wrist with large luminous hands and indexes and

34 | AboutTime Magazine

luminous markers along its broad bezel. Delma is making 300 examples of the new Blue Shark III Black Edition in each of three dial colors: black, blue or orange. All three versions come with an additional black genuine rubber strap and a black DLC-coated buckle with tools for interchanging the bracelets. Inside Delma fits a Sellita automatic movement, which is protected by a solid caseback that Delma engraves with a Limited Edition number and an eye-catching blue shark image. Price: $2,750.

SPECIFICATIONS: Delma Blue Shark III Black Edition (Limited edition to 300 pieces in each dial color) Case: 47mm by 18.5mm stainless-steel black DLC (diamond-like-carbon), helium escape valve at 9 o’clock, luminescent numerals, indexes and hands. unidirectional rotating bezel in black DLC. Water resistance to 4,000 meters as tested and certified by the Swiss PST Laboratory for Product Safety Testing in Zwillikon, Canton of Zurich. Movement: Sellita SW200 automatic, frequency 28,800 vph, power reserve of 38 hours. Dial: Blue, black or orange with applied indexes and Arabic numerals with luminous markers. Orange hour, minute and seconds hand with luminous markers. Bracelet: Scratch resistant, stainless steel black DLC coated bracelet and a black genuine rubber strap. Security screws and custom tools to enable easy and reliable adjustment of the interchangeable bracelets. Price: $2,750.

AboutTime Magazine | 35

MARITIME

All Abingdon Jane and Nadia watches are water resistant to 200 meters. All dive watches are tested by inductees of the Women Diver’s Hall of Fame.

ABINGDON EXPANDS TACTICAL AND DIVE WATCHES As Abingdon celebrates fourteen years since it started offering adventure watches specifically targeted to women, the Las Vegas watch company adds three models to its tactical watch collection (called Jane) and adds a new model to its dive watch collection, Nadia. Both collections are the brand’s first watches fit with a bidirectional compass and ruler built into the back of the watch. The new models are 35mm steel-cased watches with 200 meters of water resistance, an impressive and rarely seen specification for a watch this size.

The new Jane Outlaw

36 | AboutTime Magazine

The new Jane Mission

JANE The new Jane watch, built with an Ameriquartz quartz caliber by Arizona-based movement maker FTS, is the result of three years of testing, according to Abingdon, which explains that it wanted to create the “best tactical watch offered for women.” Jane combines a brushed 316L stainless steel case and screw-down crowns with a hardened sapphire crystal, with military time conversion, standard and metric rulers, a bi-directional compass, glow-inthe-dark dial markings, day and date display, a diver’s bezel, and its Ameriquartz Caliber 7122 quartz movement. Look for new Jane models called Covert (black dial), Mission (red dial) and Outlaw (black dial with bronze-colored case).

The Jane Covert

AboutTime Magazine | 37

MARITIME

NADIA Abingdon originally launched its Nadia dive watch in 2019 and now adds the Nadia Black Abyss, a black and pink version, which joins the original white and blue Whitewater model. Abingdon tests all its dive watches on the wrists of inductees of the Women Diver’s Hall of Fame. The 35mm steel watch is powered by a Seiko TMI NH06 automatic movement, which delivers more than forty hours of power reserve. Two screw-down crowns, which control the time function and a bi-directional compass, ensure that the Black Abyss maintains its water resistance. Abingdon has added an elongated 16mm silicone strap built to fit over wet suits and certain thicker dry suits. Prices: $629 (Jane) and $829 (Nadia).

The new Nadia Black Abyss

38 | AboutTime Magazine

The original Nadia dive watch from Abingdon, attached with white silicone strap. Inside is a Seiko automatic movement.

COOL QUARTZ

G-SHOCK LAUNCHES SECOND COLLABORATION WITH RUI HACHIMURA G-Shock adds a colorful new limited edition G-Steel model with the GM110RH-1A, the second watch made in collaboration with NBA star Rui Hachimura, the first Japanese player ever to be taken in the first round of the NBA draft (2019). G-shock started the new design by adding a polished copper bezel to its GM110 case. Then, inspired by the colors of the national flag of Benin, where Hachimura’s father was born, G-Shock added yellow, red, and green accents to the dial and band loop on one of the GM110RH-1A interchangeable bands. The yellow hour hand, red minute hand, green inset dial and Y-shaped bridge offer a particularly high level of visibility. G-Shock includes two interchangeable rubber straps with the watch. One is a black textured band with a metal copper IP buckle. The second is inspired by a West African Kente-cloth motif. Kente are specially woven festive ritual cloths used in West Africa. Finally, G-shock engraves Hachimura’s signature Black Samurai logo on the back plate, band loop and packaging. This combines the Japanese character for 8 and a Japanese sword. “The watch draws inspiration from my roots in Benin and Africa, which are very important to me,” says Hachimura. “The band design and watch face evoke elements of Beninese culture and I am delighted at how Casio brought my ideas to life.” Of course the new G-Shock GM110RH-1A comes with the full range of G-Shock’s technical attractions, notably its superior shock resistance, magnetic resistance and 200 meters of water resistance, a full auto calendar, a three-year battery, world time display and 24-hour countdown timer. Price: $420, available at select G-Shock retailers, the G-Shock Soho Store, and gshock.com.

40 | AboutTime Magazine

AboutTime Magazine | 41

COOL QUARTZ

42 | AboutTime Magazine

DESIGN DRIVEN By Steve Huyton Steve Huyton is an industrial designer, illustrator and author who publishes Total Design Reviews.

Isotope Appeals With Originality Through Facebook groups like ‘Premium Mechanical Microbrands’ I

Isotope has just released another fantastic watch called the GMT 0º.

have discovered several independent watchmakers. Designers that

For several months I have been anticipating the release of this time-

have a massive passion for horology own many of these watch brands.

piece. Therefore, imagine my delight when it arrived and exceeded my

In the past, it was very challenging for small companies to get editorial exposure. Certainly, most of the magazines in Australia (where I am

expectations. Within the range, there are several colors to choose from including

based) only support well-known labels. Ultimately, this is because they

a special bright yellow version made in collaboration with New York-

rely on advertising revenue.

based publisher Cool Hunting. With the exception of this philanthropic

Fortunately, brands like Isotope raised their profile via social

version (10% of the proceeds go to Miles4Migrants), my favorite

media. They also offer buyers very attractive watches at competi-

is the Beluga Grey, which is limited to forty-nine pieces and priced

tive prices. A great example can be found in Isotope’s latest release

around $1,000.

called the GMT 0º. Isotope was established five years ago (2016) in England by José and Joana Miranda. The brand’s catchy name is inspired by science. An isotope is a different form of a single element. But in horological terms, this equates to individuality and originality. Certainly, I’ve been impressed by the company’s progress and reviewed the Isotope Goutte d’Eau Compressor Diver on my own website several months ago. This incredible piece was nominated for a 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève award. For a Swiss mechanical automatic retailing for $670 I feel this timepiece is an absolute bargain. Ultimately, the watch community agreed and this special edition sold out very quickly. Following up on the success of the Goutte d’Eau Compressor Diver

44 | AboutTime Magazine

AboutTime Magazine | 45

DESIGN DRIVEN

What makes the GMT 0º so special is a multi-layered dial that displays GMT in a disc format rather than the conventional hand. This gives the piece an Avant-Garde aesthetic normally found in much more expensive watches. At first glance, the GMT 0º is reminiscent of timepieces from Ochs und Junior. However, there are subtle differences like the teardropshaped cut out (12 o’clock), which has now become synonymous with the Isotope brand. Beneath the 41.5mm x 39.5mm 316L stainless steel case is a customized self-winding movement from Swisstech. Another cool feature is the exhibition case back engraved with the time zones of the world’s major cities. As a perfect finale, the GMT 0º is presented with a grey leather strap and an additional metal bracelet.

46 | AboutTime Magazine

18 Years of

Built Into Every Bertucci

A-2T Original Classic™ model number #12022 then & now.

™

IW AD TEMPLATE.indd 72

Every Bertucci® Field Watch is carefully designed & built from the ground up for long lasting durability and comfort. We utilize only non-compromised performance features and premium materials that are continuously improved. Ready for the day-to-day challenges that come your way... whatever they may be.

ultimatefieldwatch.com

12/25/20 9:23 AM

FLIGHT TIME

VOSTOK-EUROPE RECALLS THE SPACE RACE Vostok-Europe launches into orbit with its new Space Race edition. Celebrating the years 1957 through 1975 (as etched on the case back), the watch touches both sides of the Cold War-era of the last century. The critical dates and the events in the challenge to get to the moon occurred in this eighteen-year window. From Sputnik to Gagarin to John Glenn and Neil Armstrong, all these events and related personalities made their marks within those fateful dates. This is all honored in the new Space Race watch. Vostok-Europe is a boutique watch brand based in Vilnius, Lithuania, with seventeen years on the market. They build mostly sport and recreational watches, particularly dive watches. The Space Race won’t be the only watch in their collection with ties to space travel. The Lunokhod II is inspired by a series of lunar rov-

48 | AboutTime Magazine

ers the Russians put on the moon. The N1 Rocket and the Energia both celebrate two of the most complex and largest rocket systems ever built. The Space Race series features two models. One is driven by a YN55 automatic movement and the other is powered by a Miyota quartz chronograph movement. The case size is 47mm by 17mm, so these are not small watches. A K1 glass system protects the watch. With a 200-meter water resistant design, this is nearly a professional grade diver, save for the required rotating bezel. The Space Race comes in eight different color dial options. The strap is an extra thick leather and there are also mesh and rubber bracelet options. Prices range from $369 to $549 and are available at www.R2Awatches.com

AboutTime Magazine | 49

AMERICAN BRANDS

50 | AboutTime Magazine

Waldan Plays With Color in

Sportline Collection Waldan Watches updates its Heritage Sportline Collection with colorful new dials, each nicely paired with leather straps that highlight contrasting and matching hues.

AboutTime Magazine | 51

AMERICAN BRANDS

The new watches are the first additions to the U.S.-based watch company’s collection in 2022. The collection is Waldan’s signature sporty series, constructed with double-stepped 40mm by 8.6mm 316L stainless steel case with a domed, anti-glare sapphire crystal and fifty meters of water resistance. (Readers might recall our review of one Waldan watch earlier last year, as well as our look into the company’s history in 2020.) Waldan’s new Heritage Sportline models feature eye-catching dials executed in Olive Khaki, Royal Blue and Champagne. The oil-pressed, linear style dials feature SuperLuminova above their baton-styled applied markers and show the time with matching baton hands with luminous tips. A sunken sub-seconds register can be found at the 6 o’clock position. Waldan’s interchangeable straps are made in Italy. While the straps attached to these new models are matched to the dial, Waldan presents the wearer with the option of purchasing additional straps to mix and match as desired. The extra straps are $30 and available from the Waldan website. Waldan continues to power each watch in this series with an allmetal American-made Ameriquartz Caliber 70200 movement. Fine Timepiece Solutions, the Arizona-based manufacturer of the Ameriquartz movements, guarantees that its all-metal calibers are defect-free for a full five years. Price: $299.

52 | AboutTime Magazine

AMERICAN BRANDS

Meridian Sky WatcH The Allora by Meridian Sky Watch is the first in a series designed by an Italian -American artist, engineered by an Armenian-American Master Watchmaker (CMW21), and built by highly trained technicians at the FTS state-of-the-art facility in Fountain Hills, Arizona. These watches use an accurate and robust Ameriquartz movement inside, and are individually certified using the proprietary “ATAC” (Assess, Test, Assemble, Certify) process ensuring each watch will meet or exceed your quality expectations. Crafted in 316L steel, these 40mm watches are the perfect size and comfortable to wear. Covering the dial is a scratchproof and ARtreated sapphire crystal. Monochromatic by design, the cleanly executed dial is simple, elegant, easy to read, with luminous hour, minutes, and seconds hands for low-light legibility. Allora has also been engineered to achieve 100-meters of water resistance without the need for a screw-down crown. By eliminating a very common error that occurs when setting a watch and forgetting to screw in the crown, this watch will avoid the inevitable service issues brought up when water, moisture, and contaminants enter the inner space of the watch due to that error. Retail price is $220 and each watch comes with a five-year warranty on the Ameriquartz movement and a full 12-month warranty on the complete watch. www.meridianskywatch.com

54 | AboutTime Magazine

INTRODUCING THE PERFECT WATCH, DURABLE FOR YOUR EVERYDAY ACTIVITIES. THE 40MM ALLORA, WITH ITS SMART LOOK, CLEAN LINES AND COMFORTABLE FIT, WILL BE A PERFECT ADDITION TO YOUR WARDROBE.

SPECIFICATIONS Movement: Ameriquartz cal. 7121 Case material: 316L stainless steel Diameter: 40mm Bezel: Fixed Caseback: Stainless steel, laser engraved Crown: Stainless steel Crystal: Sapphire anti-reflective coating Lug-to-Lug: 49mm Hands: 3 hands luminous Dial: White or black Band: NATO Strap Water resistant: 100 meters Battery Life: 48 months Timing Tolerance: -20/+20 sec/month Strap Size: 22mm

AboutTime Magazine | 55

LUMINOX

SPECIFICATIONS: Luminox Bear Grylls Limited Edition Rule of 3 Sea Series Case: 42mm by 14mm Carbonox with crown protection, uni-directional turning bezel, steel screw-in caseback, hardened mineral crystal. Weight: 76 grams. Water resistant to 200 meters. Dial: Black with orange and white hands and luminous material; date. Movement: Ronda quartz 515 HF 6 with 50-month battery life. Strap: Black genuine rubber w/ stainless steel buckle.

LUMINOX EXPANDS BEAR GRYLLS COLLECTION

To emphasize its collection of adventure watches, Luminox launches a special limited-edition Bear Grylls Limited Edition Rule of 3 Sea Series watch (333 pieces for the world) that includes a special removable sleeve on the strap with the ‘Rule of 3’ emblazoned on it. For the uninitiated, the Rule of 3 states that an adventurer can not survive without air for 3 minutes, shelter for 3 hours, water for 3 days and food for 3 weeks. This accounts for the extra-large numeral 3 on the dial in its appropriate position. The new watch joins others in the Luminox Bear Grylls collection. However, unlike the existing models in this collection designed for the Luminox Land series, this new model is the first in the collection designed with nautical (Sea) wear in mind. Luminox cases the watch in a carbon composite called Carbonox and features a uni-directional bezel set with a blue, orange and white dive-timing sector. The watch is water resistant to 200 meters. Of course, the watch is also set with luminous materials called Luminox Light Technology designed to be visible in low or no light conditions. Each timepiece is individually numbered, and a special certificate comes with each watch. Price: $545.

AboutTime Magazine | 57

LAMBORGHINI

INTERVIEW: Ferruccio Lamborghini, CEO and VP, Tonino Lamborghini

“OUR FAMILY’S DNA IS CHARACTERIZED BY GREAT CURIOSITY AND RESOURCEFULNESS, WHICH HAS ALWAYS STIMULATED OUR CREATIVITY AND MADE TONINO LAMBORGHINI A CONSISTENT LIFESTYLE BRAND.”

58 | AboutTime Magazine

FERRUCCIO LAMBORGHINI

A new model in the quartz Spyder Chrono collection shows a dial with carbon fiber in the upper half and côte de Genève in the lower one.

A Spyderleggero Skeleton Tonino Lamborghini, President, with his son Ferruccio Lamborghini CEO and VP

bout Time recently spoke with Ferruccio Lamborghini, the son of Tonino Lamborghini, who founded Lamborghini’s industrial design company in 1981. As the third generation leading a

Lamborghini business, Ferruccio not only inherited his famous name from his father and grandfather, he also enjoys his family’s passion for motorcycles and high speed. His years of racing led to several championship titles in Italian motorcycle racing. In our wide-ranging discussion, we learned more about brand’s latest lineup of Tonino Lamborghini Swiss Watches, especially the Spyder, Spyderleggero Chrono and Cuscinetto (Italian for ball bearing) collections. These collections are at the core of the brand’s timepiece offerings, and Ferruccio has redesigned them for 2021 and 2022. The shield of the brand’s logo with its Miura raging bull, inspired the Spyder, which debuted in 2007. Lamborghini debuted its first Cuscinetto collections in 1983.

Ferruccio has redesigned the Cusinetto case in titanium with Torx screws and four different color variations, mounted a new movement, and inserted a branded deployant buckle.

Ferruccio Lamborghini, who since 2018 has been the CEO of the Tonino Lamborghini luxury lifestyle and design powerhouse, tells us in the interview about how he views the company’s generational change, and details the importance of the watches within the future of the Lamborghini enterprise.

AboutTime Magazine | 59

LAMBORGHINI AT: Can you describe what it is like to take over the family brand at such a young age? What were the challenges and were there any surprises that you discovered along the way? Ferruccio Lamborghini: I am proud of it and of the generational change process my father and I experience together every day. The challenges have been changing through the years and they are mostly linked to the different dynamics related to our wide products portfolio: each product and sector deserve a special attention and a dedicated strategy. In the last five years I have worked hard to understand all the company’s processes to set the actual vision and define a strong re-organization of the business strategies. As a lifestyle brand, Tonino Lamborghini offers a variety of products. How do you determine when it makes sense to apply the TL ethos and bring a new product on-board? Our family’s DNA is characterized by great curiosity and resourcefulness, which has always stimulated our creativity and made Tonino Lamborghini a consistent lifestyle brand. Through the decades the company and customers’ needs have changed, therefore in the current scenario we have a new approach towards the developments of new products: they have to perfectly fit in a coherent and consistent Tonino Lamborghini ecosystem. We have branded accessories, furnishing and interior products, real estate and hospitality projects, food and beverages. It is a comprehensive Tonino Lamborghini lifestyle that you can wear, live, experience and drink. The Panfilo Automatic

How important are the wristwatches among the stable of Tonino Lamborghini products? Watches are our core product. They represent the best combination of our family mechanical heritage with the lifestyle approach my father had since the foundation of his company. Today it is the same, considering that the recent strategy related to our new line of Swiss watches is the one for which I have recently invested most of my energy. Do you intend to expand the watch lines in the near future? Yes, of course I do. I will announce new models, which will increase the Tonino Lamborghini Swiss Watches collection se-

The Spyder Chrono, a quartz chronograph.

lection for both quartz and automatic movements. I also would like to highlight that, among the new models, a lady’s watch is coming.

60 | AboutTime Magazine

LAMBORGHINI What are the key elements and/or identifiers customers can expect in a Tonino Lamborghini timepiece? Our customers choose our accessories to be out of the ordinary because they look for something new to experience and love and to feel part of the Tonino Lamborghini lifestyle, an approach that we always follow when we develop our ideas and new products. When breaking into new markets around the world, what strategies do you employ to promote your brand to the industrial members as well as the end consumers aware

The Tonini Lamborghini Cuscinetto R automatic watch with orange accents.

of your watches? In such a competitive business field where the major brands

Do you co-brand with any other companies?

have a years-long established presence, the key is to share a clear vision and the core values of the brand/products. From an industry point of view, we still believe in the im-

It happened in the past and it is still happening nowadays for some niche accessories, like a co-branded line of massagers in

portance of the exhibitions, physical or digital, and I personally

collaboration with the Chinese company Breo Technology or the

love to meet the press and explain my watches or strategies.

recent capsule with the Italian Venini for high-end art glasses

Besides, regarding the distributors, we directly support our

and chandeliers. Soon something new will be announced.

partners, and we always are open to define jointly the strategy in accordance with each market demand/request and its related

What is your own opinion on the dynamic between tradi-

customers behaviors.

tional third-party retailers (brick and mortar and e-shops)

From a consumers’ point of view, we are still investing in

versus the direct-to-consumer sales from your own site or

the press both nationally and internationally, but we are every

those of your distributors? Do you have any type of hybrid

year more digitally oriented. In the digital world it is easier to

strategy to maximize the potential for both platforms?

target a specific prospect and make him feel part of an exclusive club of people that share the same attitude

It is common sense now to affirm that the post-pandemic out-

and lifestyle.

come in sales will force every brand to reinforce their direct-toconsumer strategies and presence. Nevertheless, consumer habits are very different globally and brick and mortar business will probably maintain a central role in showcasing the products especially for those active in the luxury field where purchase is driven not only by clicks and discounts, but mainly by one-to-one sales pitch and consistent evaluation from the consumer. Our strategy includes both aspects. While we are building up a direct-to-consumer presence with the direct activation of flagship stores in the major marketplaces, we are now also finalizing the opening of mono-brand and corner stores thanks to local distributors and retailers. By maintaining a direct control over D2C we also avoid prices conflicts locally with such third parties like retailers and we can moreover control the brand marketing investments

The Tonino Lamborghini Spyderleggero Chrono Automatic.

62 | AboutTime Magazine

strategies. This way we maximize both channels and we directly and carefully develop the brand identity.

INCREASE LONGEVITY | IMPROVE FIT | PREVENT ODOR | STOP IRRITATION SUPREME COMFORT & LUXURY AWAITS. ENJOY YOUR TIME.

ATADtemplate.indd 98

†

6/12/19 3:34 PM

SWATCH

64 | AboutTime Magazine

SWATCH

If you’re feeling a bit whimsical and want to embrace your inner child, you can always add a Swatch Peanuts watch to your wristwear. Sure, you can say you are buying it for your nephew or niece, but it’s okay to have a bit of fun for yourself every now and then. Available in 34mm and 41mm versions, the playful Peanuts Swatch watches retail for $85 for the smaller version and $100 for the larger.

AboutTime Magazine | 65

COMIC

66 | AboutTime Magazine