Issuu

Function and Fashion for the Wrist INSIDE /

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013 - ISSUE #3

MATRICULATE INTO MECHANICALS

AboutTime’s own sliding scale

“SEVEN FRIDAY” When One Is Not Enough

LUNDIN IN LAUDERDALE

Our own Test “Diver’s” Picks REACTOR DNA FOUND ON OCEAN FLOOR Locals Wonder How It Got There

DEEP BLUE D I V E R D OW N

Navy SEAL Steel Colormark Series No. 3152: 44mm, stainless steel case, screw down crown & case back, carbon reinforced polycarbonate bezel, tempered scratch resistant mineral crystal, water resistant to 200 meters, solid link stainless steel bracelet with security clasp, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made. Preferred timepiece of Elite Special Forces Worldwide.

www.luminox.com facebook.com/Luminox

EDITOR’S NOTE

Gary George Girdvainis gary@isochronmedia.com

Pandora’s Box

ou’d think that after so many years dedicated to covering high-end watchmaking that I would have known better. Even back when I ran a monthly publication, it was really quite impossible to cover all the new watches from the host of high-end brands – never mind stay abreast of the nascent newcomers working to carve out their own space in the “haute” horology market. I swear I must be part masochist, as I knew that for every one of these “luxury” brands available, there had to be three or four catering to the more accessible end of the watch market. This was never more evident than at the recent annual events on both sides of the big pond. Baselworld is of course the watch event of record worldwide, but our own domestic events in Las Vegas, the JCK and Couture exhibitions, never fail to provide more grist for the editorial mill. So I wade into the fray while keeping AboutTime’s byline of “function and fashion for the wrist” in-mind as an editorial compass. I mine the booths, suites and exhibitions on both continents for those watch gems that stood out from either a function or fashion perspective (or both), always cognizant of the value argument – and never losing sight of my self-imposed $2,400 retail price limit when considering content for AboutTime. With so many brands cultivating similar schools of design, I decided to employ a stratagem that would help guide my coverage. Playing both sides of the coin I place myself in the role as the end consumer/buyer, as well as the retail salesman standing across the counter trying to convince me this watch is worth my money. As the seller—what are the features, and more importantly the benefits of this particular wristwatch? Is the price right vs. similar watches from other brands? Do I have a strong sales argument as to why this is a good watch to buy and own? What about the brand recognition/trust factors? Looking across the display case, now from the buyer’s perspective, I need to be sold. Convince me that this is the right watch. Since it’s already caught my eye – let’s get to work on the “left” brain. I find that if I have a hard time believing I could sell – or be convinced to buy a particular watch, I need to think twice about how to present it in AboutTime. That does not by any means discount the possibility that it may be a great fit for someone else, as watch purchases are by their very nature a personal and subjective thing. I just have to work a bit harder to find those unique selling points and let you be the judge of what is right for you. So as I transition from one discovery to the next, in the seemingly infinite permutations of function and fashion applied to the miniscule frame that is the wristwatch, I discover that one thing that is certain: I’ve only scratched the surface. It’s “AboutTime” – to hire more help!

Gary George Girdvainis

AboutTime Magazine | FUNCTION 3

COMIC RELIEF by Freddi Brodmann

PUBLISHER Isochron Media LLC Group Publisher Gary George Girdvainis

ACCOUNTING

Frank Kelly frank@isochronmedia.com

ART

Creative Direction Brain Bleach Media info@brainbleachmedia.com Art Director Silvio Del Monaco Graphic Designer Cara Leigh Original Photography Alonso Associates: maa@alonsophotos.com Cartoon Artist Fredi Brodmann

EDITORIAL

Editor-in-Chief Gary George Girdvainis Editor Roberta Naas Managing Editor Jonathan Bues Motorsports/Lifestyle Editor Charles Moyer Contributors Y-Jean Mun-Delsalle Keith Flamer Alistair Gibbons Steve Lundin Jeff Stein Jordan Rothacker Anthony Young Marton Radkai Zach Weiss John Holbrook Rubin Douglas David McCready Stu Hubbard

ADVERTISING INQUIRIES

Isochron Media 25 Gay Bower Rd. Monroe, CT 06468 Phone (203) 485-6276 e-mail: sales@isochronmedia.com Subscriptions: info@isochronmedia.com “The trademarks, logos, and service marks (collectively the “Trademarks”) displayed in this magazine are registered and unregistered trademarks of Isochron Media Llc its affiliates and others. You can view trademarks owned by Isochron Media LLC on Trademarkia at this link: www.trademarkia.com/company-isochron-media-llc-3824346-page-1-2. Nothing contained in this magazine should be construed as granting, by implication, estoppel, or otherwise, any license or right to use any Trademark displayed in this magazine without the written permission of Isochron Media Llc or such third party that may own the trademark displayed

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in this magazine. Your misuse of the Trademarks displayed on this Web Site, or any other content in this magazine, except as provided herein, is strictly prohibited.” AboutTime Magazine is published quarterly both in print and digitally by Isochron Media LLC, 25 Gay Bower Rd. Monroe, CT, 06468. One year (six issues) subscription $35.94. Copyright 2013, all rights reserved. Editorial inquiries should be sent to Isochron Media address. All views and opinions expressed within are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect those of AboutTime Magazine or Isochron Media, LLC. ISSN 2169-5814

CONTENTS

FUNCTION FEATURES

18 18 COVER STORY THE NAME SAYS IT ALL

DEEP BLUE

16 TIMELY TIPS

FOR TICKING TIMPEICES

26 SEVEN FRIDAY

REVIEW

54 FOUR DIVERS

TAKE THE PLUNGE

26 FUNCTION DEPARTMENTS 03 EDITOR’S NOTE 08 MECHANICAL MENAGERIE 30 DRIVE TIME 36 FLIGHT TIME 40 MARI-TIME 46 TECH TIME 48 SPORTS TIME 52 ZULU TIME 64 WATCH NEWS

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nothing impossible

PILOT WATCHES MADE IN SWITZERLAND

T20306 $625

MADE

SWITZERLAND

www.torgoen.com

AFFORDABLE MECHANICALS

Guide to

Affordable Mechanicals

You get more than you might expect from an entry-level watch with the Aeromatic XL. At 48 mm x 14 mm, its brushed stainless steel case is big and bold and even features a see-thru back to display the 22-jewel mechanical movement. Mineral crystal covers the black dial hosting a small date window, 24 hour display and a power reserve indicator. Retail Price $179. www.longislandwatch.com

Android is already known for the huge variety of affordable watch types seen on their web-site and TV shopping channels. The Impetus Double escapement interprets the look of a regal high-end mechanical timepiece and adapted it into a watch that retails for as little as $210-$350 depending on the model and vendor. The 42 mm stainless steel case is water resistant to 10 atm and available in a yellow gold plated version as well. www.android-usa.com

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AFFORDABLE MECHANICALS

Aerodrive by AWI (Armenian Watch International) makes a bold statement in a full-size version of the modern sports watch. Various combinations are available in satin finished steel and black PVD and to rose gold plated versions. You can also choose from the traditional black or white numerals or opt for more colorful options. All editions feature automatic mechanical movements inside the 48 mm, 10-atm-rated case. Carbon fiber dials with luminous hands and markers are protected by sapphire crystals. Prices range from around $450 to $550, depending on the model. All versions are held in-place by a textured natural rubber strap. www.awi-global.com

Miansai founder Michael Saiger has earned a reputation for creating handmade designs that blur the lines between classic style and a fresh perspective. Saiger put a lot of thought into what one actually desires from a watch. “For the most part people want something that looks good, makes them feel good and provides the best quality for their price range,” says Saiger. “Watches are a very personal purchase; I wanted to create something that was true to our brand and true to our customer.” With retail prices ranging from $355 - $500, the MIANSAI by Michael Saiger timepiece collection has done exactly that. Three styles – M1 (Perpetual), M2 (Chronograph) and M3 (Automatic) – contain Japanese movements, stainless steel hardware (some with a PVD option) and sapphire glass. The second hand resembles a small hook and the crown was developed from the brand’s popular Screw Cuff. The unique bands are made from French calf and Italian leathers combined with the ribbon and rope materials seen throughout the entire MIANSAI collection. MIANSAI timepieces are available now. www.miansai.com.

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AFFORDABLE MECHANICALS

If you love mechanical watches for the elegant interplay of tiny gears, wheels and pinions, the tourbillon is for you. Out of reach for the vast majority of buyers for so many years, several versions have arisen from far-eastern manufacturers that have brought the enticing mechanism within the reach of a new corps of collectors. Rotating once a minute, the MontieK Tourbillon reflects a timeless dress watch design as well as an authentic timekeeping milestone. Roman numerals and blued steel hands grace the a dial exhibiting refined textures reminiscent of the guilloche technique. Scratch-resistant sapphire crystals on both the front and back, www.montiek.com

Showing a hint of what’s under the dial has been a popular method to promote the fact that a mechanical engine lies within. Orient’s version is an elegant execution of the type and an easy buy at only $395. At 41 mm x 12 mm it’s also a medium size that will appeal to the buyer looking for a value mechanical with pricing and proportions leaning towards the more moderate end of the scale. www.orientwatchusa.com

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AFFORDABLE MECHANICALS This rose gold (plated) beauty is a handsome and well-balanced watch that has the look and feel of a much more expensive timepiece. The always welcome power reserve is joined on the jet black dial by a date pointer and a retrograde day of the week display. Although clearly not a sports watch, the new Orient is water resistant to 10 atm and the 39.5 mm x 14.25 mm case remains resolutely elegant in its size and proportions. Orient’s watches house mechanical movements manufactured, assembled and installed at their own facilities in Japan. Founded in 1950 Orient has been making watches for more than 60 years and continuously offers a great option for the budget-minded enthusiast of mechanical watches. Due to the sapphire crystal, see thru back and extra functions, this retrograde display watch climbs a bit higher up the retail price scale to $1,399. www.orientwatchusa.com

The stainless steel case measures 38.5 mm x 13 mm and exemplifies the “reserved” in Power Reserve. Aptly named for its additional display on the dial, the entire watch is an understated example of classic lines and design. Under the black or white dial, Orient’s own in-house auto-wind mechanical with a stop second (Hacking) function and a 40-hour power reserve is ticking away. Since this is a dress watch and not a diver, the 5-atm rating is design appropriate. The new Orient on your list if you’re looking for a moderated size mechanical dress watch for yourself or that recent graduate. $690 on bracelet. www.orientwatchusa.com

You can see the ticking innards of this slimcased entry from Zeppelin from either side. Beating within the 40 mm x 11 mm stainless steel case is a flatline Miyota Cal. 82S5 automatic winding movement with the balance wheel visible through a cutout on the front – or the wider view through the see-thru mineral crystal back. $359 and this Zeppelin flies your way from www.longislandwatch.com

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As an avid watch collector himself, Randy Jackson has been a fan for quite some time. Knowing that the vast majority of collectors bought within a certain price range, the Randy Jackson collection is designed to offer a wide variety of types in an inclusive selection of styles that almost anyone could enjoy. Pictured here is an elegant skeleton (skelegant?) offering in stainless steel with black ion plating from the Contemporary Classic Collection. At 44.5 the large case would work equally well on a man or as a bold style for a fashion-forward woman’s wrist. Retail price is $269. www.hsn.com/shop/timepiecesby-randy-jackson

DO’S & DON’TS

Timely tips for ticking

timepieces GUIDELINES TO FOLLOW:

or hundreds of years prior to the 1960’s, the spring was the only power source available for portable timekeepers - whether clock, pocket watch, or wristwatch. In the late 1960’s the miniaturization of the button cell battery and the introduction of the quartz controlled oscillator movement almost caused the untimely demise of the mechanical watch. As is common knowledge by now, the rebirth of the mechanical watch has taken firm hold over the last two-plus decades. More and more collectors at all price points are looking to the mechanical watch as a must-have part of a growing collection. For sure fashion and design remain paramount, but the appreciation of the mechanism inside the case and under the dial is becoming more relevant in the buying decision. So now that a new generation of mechanical watch enthusiasts is taking hold, let’s have a look at some simple guidelines that will help insure your new (or vintage) mechanical marvel will work for decades to come.

DO’S

DON’TS

Close the door. After winding your watch or changing the date or time ALWAYS remember to push the crown all the way in—and screw threaded crowns down (if so equipped). Water, moisture, and dust may find their way into the case and the inner workings of a mechanical watch don’t like this. ALWAYS change the time on a mechanical watch by going forward (clockwise)—even if you have to rock all the way around the clock (dial). Some watches are more resistant to this abuse then others—but make a clockwise adjustment your habit in all cases as a precautionary measure and you’re sure to err on the side of safety. This is even more important with watches equipped with a date display as transitioning back across midnight can strip the teeth or do other damage to the automatic date change mechanism. When changing the date on a mechanical watch always move the hour/minute hands forward until the date changes automatically as you roll the time past midnight. This usually occurs between 10:00pm and 2:00 am, sometimes slowly, sometimes with a “jump”. Once you see the date change and have made sure you’ve moved the indicated time past 2:00 am, you can then safely use the quick set mechanism to correct the date. This practice will not only protect your mechanical date mechanism, but it will also insure that your am/ pm is set correctly so your date will change at night and not mid-day.

SIMPLE RULE OF THUMB (AND FOREFINGER): The 10 and 2 rule - NEVER change the date on a mechanical watch when the indicated time reads between 10:00 and 2:00. The problem here is that most mechanical watches have the aforementioned automatic mechanism that goes into action somewhere between 10:00pm and 2:00am. If the automatic date change mechanism is already engaged and you unwittingly try to force a fast date change with the crown—the unusual crunching and snapping you may hear will let you know the error of your ways. Sure, it’s safe to make the change when the watch reads 10:00 am-2:00 pm, but I’ve made that assumption and paid the (repair) price. Best practices call for this to become another ingrained habit for mechanical watch owners. NEVER leave your watch on top of, or next to electronics for extended periods. Even minor magnetic fields can have a deleterious effect on your watches accuracy over time by magnetizing the balance and other ferrous metals in the movement. MAKE IT A HABIT to lay your watch flat - or at least on the side opposite the crown if flat is not an option for the type. Crowns are a weak point in the watch case which is why you see so many interpretations of the crown “protector”. Given the option, why put extra stress on the crown and keyless works it operates?

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DON’T OVERWIND your watch. If it’s an automatic, give the crown a few turns after you set the time and date, push the crown in (remembering the whole screw-down thing if it applies) put it on and let your arm’s motion and gravity do the rest. If you own a manual wind only mechanical watch (a non-automatic), be sensitive to the changing resistance in the crown as you approach full-wind. As the mainspring becomes taught you will normally be able to feel the resistance in the crown. Stop winding and never force the crown to turn. DON’T expect your mechanical watch to be accurate to electronic (quartz) standards. Certified chronometers are among the most accurate mechanical types with a typical requirement of plus 6 to minus 4 seconds per day. Accept the fact that a non-Chronometer rated watch may deviate 10, 15 or more seconds per day depending on the source and quality of the movement—as well as the habits of the user. DON’T swim with a watch rated for less than 10 atm water resistance. In theory 5 atm may be ok—but this is my advice based on experience. CHRONOGRAPH CADENCE—in the vast majority of chronographs (watches with all those cool little sub-dials and buttons) the start and stop functions are actuated from the same button/ pusher, with a separate reset button to go back to zero. Repeat after me: Start, stop, reset. That said, it is ok to stop the chronograph and then start it without resetting to zero by hitting the same start/stop button again, but ALWAYS stop the chronograph BEFORE you hit the reset button. That was another repair bill I earned from my very first mechanical chronograph. I was young—what can I say? DON’T start, stop, or reset your chronograph while the watch is submerged. You may let moisture into the case— that’s bad. While we’re on the topic—don’t mess with the crown while submerged either—other than to make sure its pushed or screwed in, but you should have already done that before jumping in the water anyway so let’s just leave the crown alone when wet.

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COVER STORY By Gary George

View From

The Deep (Blue) A

lready a collector and enthusiast of wristwatches, the founder and creator of Deep Blue, Stan Betesh recalls his initial foray into the business. While searching for a replacement strap for a popular high-end watch brand, Stan discovered the costs for some of these straps were tipping the scales at $300 or more. At the other end of the spectrum you could always find low-quality countertop display straps that were about as luxurious and comfortable as cardboard—(and almost as cheap)—at any box store for as little as $10 or $15. Recognizing a real gap in the market, he came to realize the potential for a business model that would fill a void for quality watch straps at more accessible prices. Capitalizing on the broad reach of an internet-based audience

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for his own business, Stan created Panatime and built a strong following for his own variety of replacement straps in short order. Never one to sit idle, Stan’s initial foray into the watch industry quickly drove him to apply the same fill-the-void thinking to the wristwatch itself. Moving on for Stan meant that he was to sell his strap business in order to create a watch brand of his own. In his opinion, key functional and design elements of a real-world functional diver’s type were being ignored to a large extent. So in 2007 he founded Deep Blue Watches—leaving little doubt as to the nature of these new timepieces. Critical of the existing top tier brands, Betesh was determined to integrate specific features into a watch that anyone (who could

Beneath the jungles of the Yucatan Peninsula lies a vast network of flooded caves filled with wonders beyond description. The forests of spectacular stalactites and stalagmites that scuba divers encounter are evidence that these passageways were once dry. At the end of the last Ice Age, extinct elephant-like creatures and giant ground sloths roamed what is today the Caribbean coast of Mexico. Many wandered deep into these caves only to be sealed off for eternity by the rising seas. For modern underwater cave explorers, few frontiers on this planet could be more enticing. With support from National Geographic, Deep Blue Explorer Alex Alvarez has been making exciting discoveries within this watery labyrinth. Cave bears and saber-toothed cats provide a glimpse into what North America was like thousands of years ago, and intrepid explorers like Alex are shedding new light on this once-hidden world.

Caption: Cave archaeologist Dominique Rissolo hovers near the entrance of Aktun Ha in Quintana Roo, Mexico. Photo by Fabio Esteban Amador.

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COVER STORY

invest in the time and/or equipment to SCUBA dive) could afford. These qualitative properties include depth ratings beyond the norm. For Stan, this is more a statement of the robust construction than a real-world necessity. I mean, who really dives deeper than the 20atm (200 meters- 660 feet) rating of your typical dive watch? Other features Stan is proud to integrate into Deep Blue watches include brighter than usual T 100 tritium tubes, Super Luminova and ceramic or sapphire capped bezels. His thinking with the last item was both functional and fashionable. Since bezels are front and center on a watch and the most likely place to show wear and always take a beating, he wanted a bezel that would look like new even after years of use–and look great from the first day. Whether bouncing around

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the boat on the way to a dive site, or on the rocks, wrecks and reefs underwater, a scratch resistant/proof bezel makes a lot of sense. It will even keep the less active “desk” diver’s watch protected from the more mundane dangers of the occasional door-knob or metal bathroom stall to preserve the like-new look. Another element of functionality for Deep Blue is legibility in all lighting conditions above and below the surface. To that end Deep Blue has incorporated the tritium tube technology along with Super Luminova in various combinations that allow for a quick glance to immediately confirm the time. Add to that a solid link stainless steel bracelet with a diver’s expansion safety clasp, threaded screws (rather than pins) holding the links together and you can see that Deep

Flash-forward several millennia to the time of the Ancient Maya. The entrances to these underwater caves, known as cenotes, received offerings and sacrifices to the rain gods. National Geographic grantee and Deep Blue Explorer Guillermo de Anda has been recording these ritual deposits at the legendary site of Chichen Itza. In Quintana Roo, Fabio Esteban Amador from National Geographic and Dominique Rissolo of the Waitt Institute are taking a new look at these mythical portals where innumerable artifacts – and the stories they can tell – still lie hidden within the crystalline waters.

DESIGNING WATCHES THAT CAN WITHSTAND DEPTHS OF 300 TO 3000 METERS ENSURES A DEPENDABLE TIMEPIECE.

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COVER STORY

Blue makes a great argument for the active diver – whether “desk” or SCUBA. With any watch the ostensible functionality of timekeeping is important, but let’s face the facts, few of us – whether divers, drivers, pilots or sportsmen want to wear an ugly watch. Even though Deep Blue watches are built to withstand the trials and tribulations of the unforgiving undersea environment, they also have a design that brings a strong “wrist” appeal factor to anyone who likes the sports watch style. A shallow dive into the Deep Blue collection calls for a nominal

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investment of $399 for a Daynight Ops Pro. Still water resistant to 30 atm with T 100 tritium tubes and an automatic (Miyota) mechanical movement, even the entry level Ops Pro offers the key assets Betesh wants in his watches. Those choosing to submerge more deeply into the Deep Blue collection will find an automatic winding Valjoux Swiss chronograph for $1,499. The latter is surely one of the most affordable watches currently offered with the robust and widely acclaimed movement. www.deepbluewatches.com

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WORN & WOUND By Zach Weiss, Co-Founder, www.wornandwound.com

ome watches are designed as a product of trends and market forces, others to show off new technologies and innovations. The best watches, the ones that inspire strong reactions whether love or hate, are designed out of passion. The SevenFriday P1 (P2 and P3 as well) is such a watch. Large, complex, unique and quite a bit flashy, the P1 isn’t like anything you’ve seen before, especially for under a thousand dollars. On the surface, the P1 is a hypnotic mix of materials and finishes. The 47mm cushion case interweaves satin brushing, polished steel and gun metal grey PVD for an industrial composite that is altogether unique. The dial then is a machine interface rather than a sterile plane. Layers upon layers of textured metal, applied batons, printed indexes, wheels, cogs and discs come together to display the time and capture your attention. Located at 7 o’clock is an aperture into the heart of the P1 where you can see the balance wheel of the Miyota 82S7 automatic movement beating inside, confirming that this is indeed a living machine.

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WORN & WOUND

A quick glance at the watch reveals that the design wasn’t an assignment that some overworked freelancer put together, but a labor of love. Every detail has been considered from the copper tone of the hour hand to the single red stitch on the back of the keeper. Having met with Dan, the founder and CEO of SevenFriday, I can say confidently that these watches are not some scheme to make a few bucks; they are the product of a love for watches. Dan didn’t set out to make just another timepiece, he set out to make something unexpected that demonstrates how with good design, one can push the boundaries of what’s possible on an affordable watch.

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DRIVE TIME

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Stripes are definitely in this racing season and the new “Drive” collection from Citizen looks like it wants to go fast. This latest model is scheduled to launch this summer and will be available in two unlimited editions with orange and yellow striping and accents, as well as a special 5,000-piece Matt Kenseth limited edition in red with his #20 imprinted on the dial. All versions are held in place with a punched leather strap coated in black polyurethane and everything about this watch shouts out “gentlemen start your engines”. This medium large 45 mm dark grey stainless steel chronograph is water resistant to 10 atm., capped with a mineral crystal ringed by a rotating bezel and priced accessibly at $395 ($575 for the Matt Kenseth limited edition).

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DRIVE TIME

Tissot T-Race MotoGP

MotoGP fans rejoice. In our last issue we featured the black/yellow combination in the MotoGP collection. Now Tissot has now expanded both the quartz and auto-wind mechanical versions celebrating ambassadors for this all-out motorcycle racing series. Case: 45.3 x 12.67 mm (16 mm for auto) SS/PVD Movement: Swiss Quartz Chrono and Swiss Automatic Chrono Band: Silicone with push button folding clasp Crystal: Sapphire with date magnifier Water Resistance: 10 atm Price: $925 quartz, $1,425 Mechanical Contact: www.tissot.ch/MotoGP2013

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Aristo Dash Clock

Aristo brings retro-chic design to the dial with a vintage German car dashboard clock design. Case: 43 MM, Polished Stainless Steel w/ see thru back Movement: Swiss V24 Automatic mechanical Crystal: Hardened Mineral Crystal Band: Black leather or steel mesh Water Resistance: 5 atm Price: $409-$519 Contact: www.longislandwatch.com

ContaTempo Scuderia

Crown on top with an Italian flair on the outside and a Swiss automatic movement within make the Salt Flat Racer a great next-level choice in a stylish sports watch. Case: 46 mm x 12.65 mm, SS w/black ion plating, see thru back Movement: Swiss (ValSwiss) automatic mechanical Band: Hole-punched silicone or Italian leather Crystal: Sapphire Water Resistance: 10 atm Price: $1,595 Contact: www.ctscuderia.com

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DRIVE TIME Autodromo Veloce

Inspired by a 1960’s tachometer, the Veloce’s danger zone is also a great reminder for when not to quick set your date display. Case: 42 mm, Brushed Stainless Steel or Black PVD Movement: Swiss Ronda Quartz Band: Perforated leather Crystal: K1 Mineral with Sapphire coating Water Resistance: 3 atm Price: $425 Contact: www.autodromo.com

Jorg Gray Ben Spies Limited Edition

With a bezel crafted to replicate the disc brake rotor from a Moto GP race bike there is little doubt as to the design motivation for this wrist racer. Case: 46mm x 10.52 mm SS Movement: Miyota Quartz w/chronograph Band: Integrated Rubber Crystal: Hardened mineral Crystal Water Resistance: 10 atm Price: $695 Contact: www.jorggray.com

CAT Fastlane

Racing looks and 10 atm. Water resistance at a price anyone can afford. Case: 44 or 48 mm x 10.5mm brushed stainless or black pvd Movement: Quartz Band: Striped nylon Crystal: Hardened Mineral Water Resistance: 10 atm Price: $130 Contact: www.catwatches.com

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FLIGHT TIME

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The founder of Torgoen Swiss is a pilot who understands the value of image and the sponsorship by those professionals who actually need and use these products. To that end Torgoen sponsors aerobatic pilots, the Torgoen Flight Academy (where you can register to learn to be a pilot) and were chosen by the California Fire Squad as well as Air Force and commercial pilots as the watch of choice. As an assurance of finished quality all Torgoen watches are individually tested to their advertised 10 atm limit, and assembled in a state of the art facility located in Stabio Switzerland of high grade stainless steel, Italian leather, and hardened K1 Hardex mineral crystals. Inside Swiss quartz movements accurately track the time. Focusing on the accessible price range of $300-$800 Torgoen should be high on the list for the buyer looking for an unusual level of fit, finish, and quality for less than $1,000. Within this price range Torgoen represents a rare combination of construction features that translate into real-world benefits. New from Torgoen is the T20. The design features bold, multi-

toned bezels and accents, carbon fiber dials, and a multi-function Swiss movement that has the usual hour and minute hands in the center indicating the local time in a 12-hour format as well as an additional hand for the second time zone which indicates time on the outer 24 hour bezel. Actual pilots as well as world travelers will come to appreciate the reference that can easily be set to GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) for active pilots, or any time zone around as a second time for the world traveler. A third hand from the center indicates the time for the integrated alarm. A sub-dial for the running seconds and an over-size date add the finishing touches to the dial. At 45 mm x 13mm, the 316L stainless steel case is large enough without being over-size. Retail price is $595 on a polyurethane strap or $650 on a stainless steel bracelet. The founder of Torgoen clearly has the utmost confidence in his brand as they are covered by both a three year warrantee on workmanship and a 30day money-back guarantee! www.torgoen.com.

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FLIGHT TIME

Aeromatic 1912 Pilot Alarm

Attitude at altitude might best define this 47 mm beast of a watch with integrated world time, alarm, and chrono functions. Case: 47 mm x 15 mm brushed stainless steel Movement: Quartz with chronograph and alarm Band: Black leather / white stitching Crystal: Hardened Mineral Water Resistance: 5atm. Price: $199 special on-line price www.longislandwatch.com

Dievas Vintage California

Full figured with a retro design are the hallmarks of the homage pilot’s type by Dievas. The California dial offers no distracting functions and is a great example of the type. Case: 47 mm x 17 mm polished stainless steel/see-through back Movement: Manual wind mechanical Swiss Unitas 6497 Band: Extra thick grained leather Crystal: Domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating Water Resistance: 3 atm Price: $789 www.longislandwatch.com

Trintec Zulu

Vollmer V5 Aileron

Case: 42 mm x 13 mm 316 L stainless steel with black PVD Movement: Auto-wind Miyota mechanical Band: Textured silicone Crystal: Hardened mineral Water Resistance: 5 atm Price: $449 www.longislandwatch.com

Case: 38.5 x 11.5 mm satin finished stainless steel Movement: Auto-wind mechanical, Swiss ETA 2824-2 Band: Natural grain black leather Crystal: Sapphire Water Resistance: 10 atm Price: $599 www.longislandwatch.com

Cockpit Instrument watches are very popular today and the new Trintec Zulu offers an affordable mechanical movement option of the genre.

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A moderated size is easy to wear and works on both full-size and smaller wrists with a Swiss Made automatic mechanical in a pilot’s type that emphasizes the minutes past the hour.

ACCESSORIES

The Gibson and Barnes Type A-2 Mark 41 If you were in the Army Air Corps in the early 1940’s, before America entered the Second World War, you’d be wearing a Type A-2 Mark 41 aviator’s jacket. Next to the classic motorcycle jacket and shearling flying jacket, the A-2 represents one of the most recognizable and replicated leather jacket styles in history. The style forms the basis for most military jackets; from the navy’s fur trimmed G-1 to the classic “bomber” in all its various and sundry permutations. Gibson and Barnes have rendered their A-2 with all the most desirable features found on the many variants from a host of military contract manufacturers. These include a drum dyed horsehide shell in russet brown or mahogany with one piece back, knit cuffs and waistband made of worsted wool, nickel zipper, box stitched shoulder straps and a collar stand between the jacket collar and body. It’s lined with tight weave 100% cotton and even bears an A-2 label with an actual contract stamp. As a military contract manufacturer, Gibson and Barnes knows how to deliver high performance, military grade garments, and the A-2 is no exception. This jacket is more than just a fashion statement, it’s a second skin designed with a purpose: to keep you safe. Made in the USA: $608, direct from www.gibson-barnes.com ART: Gibson and Barnes Photo: Steve Lundin; Helicopter courtesy Sun Aero Helicopters, Lansing, IL

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MARITIME

OCEAN 7

WHAT’S IN A NAME? W

ith Ocean 7 – pretty much everything. Attention to detail and creating a watch that is worth more than you’re paying has given the brand a loyal following. But don’t go to your local retailer to find one, because you won’t. Part of the brand’s strategy to offer more watch for the money has been to work directly with the end consumer via the web. In fact if Ocean 7 had taken the more traditional route to enter the market you can safely assume that these watches would cost at least 50% more than they do now. From a design perspective its clear Ocean 7 has taken inspiration from successful and iconic designs from the past, but you can also see a penchant for modern materials and design trends. Sure the asymmetrical case of the LM-7 looks similar to another brand’s diver’s type, but the “other” watch retails for over $9,000. You could literally buy ten of the Ocean 7, LM-7 watches for the same price! Another great example of the value argument for Ocean 7 is the ceramic LM-42 “Meteor”. Although more of a pilot’s look than a diver’s type, on close inspection the ceramic case and construction will stand up to anything else I’ve seen – only at a fraction of the cost. Across the board every watch that bears the Ocean 7 name will have assets of both design and construction that exceed ex-

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pectations. All are Swiss-Made, and although most versions are running on Swiss automatic mechanical movements, even the entry level Swiss Quartz Dress Diver plays above its grade. In all versions Ocean 7 uses sapphire crystals, sometimes flat, in other cases domed, depending on the style and type. When anti-reflective, coatings are used on the crystals, they are used only on the inside. Why does that matter? It’s another example of the attention to detail. Double sided anti-reflective coating may sound good, but the reality is that if coated on the outside, it’s possible to scratch the layer on top of the sapphire – even if the sapphire itself remains unmarked. From a design point just look at the depth of color on the sapphire crystal covered bezels. Whether the rich black or the famous blue/red combination, the domed sapphire adds richness and depth, never mind the fact that the most visible exposed part of the watch will look like new for years. I don’t want to come across as one who has “drunk the KoolAid,” but I’ve worn, tested and inspected various Ocean 7 watches myself and have honestly been impressed. If you’re a fan of watches and not absolutely stuck on a big brand name, save yourself some hard earned cash and take the plunge into an Ocean 7. You may find the watch you love—and leave a few (hundred) extra bucks in the bank at the same time.

ANDROID DM 9100

If you’re a fan of over-size watches with mechanical innards, Android’s diver is worth a look. No way to hide this enormous hunk of metal with bright green dial under your sleeve. Case: 45 mm x 14 mm brushed stainless steel Movement: Auto-wind mechanical, Japanese Miyota Power reserve: 38 hours Functions: Full calendar, power reserve, day/night indicator Band: Genuine leather Crystal: Mineral Water Resistance: 30 atm Price: $500 Contact: www.android-usa.com

AWI DEEP WATER

Big, bold and easy to read the Deep Water collection from AWI is built like a tank with a crown protector and an easy to grip diver’s bezel. Case: 50 mm x 13.7 mm satin finish stainless steel with crown protector Movement: Auto-wind mechanical Power Reserve: 40 hours Functions: Date Band: Integrated black rubber Crystal: Sapphire crystal Water Resistance: 30 atm Price: $525 Contact: www.awi-global.com

CAT DEEP OCEAN

This CAT is what all the budget minded diver’s will want this year. Functional and formal in rose gold (plate) and black PVD the Deep Ocean can take you from reef to restaurant in style. Case: 45 mm x 13.5 mm Stainless with satin finish rose gold plate. Movement: Swiss quartz, Ronda Power Reserve: 3 Year Battery Functions: Date Band: Molded black rubber Crystal: Mineral Water Resistance: 20 atm Price: $220 Contact: www.catwatches.com

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MARITIME DIEVAS VORTEX

Slightly smaller than its predecessor, the lightweight brother to the Dievas “Focal” (featured in issue #1) continues the clean and easy-toread diver dial design in a satin brushed titanium case.

Case: 45 mm x 14 mm Satin finish titanium Movement: Automatic mechanical, Swiss ETA 2824-2 Power reserve: 42 hours Functions: Time only Band: Slotted black rubber with adjustable deployant clasp Crystal: Anti-glare domed sapphire Water Resistance: 50 atm Price: $1,129 Contact: www.longislandwatch.com

CASIO EDIFICE EMA 100-1AV

Packed with a host of nautical functions including tide and moon phases, multiple alarms, world time, and a thermometer, the new Edifice is as stylish as it is functional. Case: 46.7 mm x 13.2 mm brushed stainless steel. Movement: Quartz, Japanese Power reserve: 3-year battery Functions: Moon and tide phases, split chronograph, countdown timer, world timer, perpetual calendar, alarm, temperature, back light. Band: Resin Crystal: Mineral Water Resistance: 20 atm Price: $250 Contact: www.edifice.casio.com

OREFICI REGATTA YACHTING

An integrated ten minute countdown timer and bold sport design makes this a great option for sailors and non-sailors alike. Case: 48 mm x 13.2 mm 316L stainless steel/ Rose gold IP Movement: quartz, ISA 8270Y Swiss Power reserve: 3-year battery Functions: 10-minute countdown, 96-hour chronograph, alarm, date Band: Silicone Crystal: K1 Mineral Water Resistance: 10 atm Price: SS $950, RG Ion plate $995 Contact: www.oreficiwatches.com

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MARITIME ORIENT M-FORCE BEAST

A power reserve and sapphire crystal are welcome functional and construction points on any mechanical dive watch. Case: 47 mm x 13.3 mm satin finished stainless steel Movement: Auto-wind mechanical, Orient cal 40N5A – Japanese Power reserve: 38 hours Functions: Date, power reserve, hacking seconds, anti-magnetic Band: Stainless Steel Crystal: Sapphire Water Resistance: 20 atm Price: $795 Contact: www.orientwatchusa.com

REACTOR TITANIUM GAMMA

Reactor DNA includes their “Never Dark” dials, bolts instead of spring bars for band attachments and exceptional attention to detail. Case: 45.5 mm x 13.8 mm satin finished solid titanium Movement: Quartz Power reserve: 10 year long-life battery Functions: Day/date Band: Solid link textured and satin finish titanium Crystal: K1 Mineral with 4 layer anti-glare coating on inner surface Water Resistance: 30 atm Price: $600 Contact: www.reactorwatch.com

LARGE AND LEFT “LUNOKHOD” MULTI-FUNCTION DIVER

Vostok-Europe’s multi function retrograde displays create an unusual combination of style and function in an aggressive diver’s type – now with pushers and crown on the left for comfort and functionality. Orange accents add a touch of style. Case: 49 x 14 mm satin finished 316L stainless steel with helium valve Movement: Multi Function Swiss quartz Power reserve: 3 year battery Functions: Split chronograph, dual time zones, countdown timer, perpetual calendar, retrograde seconds display Band: Supplied with two silicon and one leather strap Crystal: Hardened K1 Mineral Water Resistance: 30 atm Price: $1,129 Contact: www.vostok-europe.com

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TECH TIME

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TECHIES

ALERT

Connectivity and convenience are the hallmarks of the new Citizen Proximity. Working together with your iPhone, the new Citizen Proximity will act as your own personal assistant and sync with your phone to give both a visual and vibrating alert for incoming e-mails and calls, as well as an automatic reminder for scheduled events and meetings programmed into your phone. Using BlueTooth technology to attain a 30 foot range, the new Citizen can also help you locate your lost phone—that is if you’re within range. Simply push the required buttons on the watch and your phone will give an audible signal—even if in silent mode. Another benefit of the link between phone and watch is the automatic updating of exact time and date that the watch will glean from the phone’s own GPS-regulated time signal. It will even update the time/date when you cross time zones and date lines while travelling based on this same technology. Outfitted with the Citizen Eco-Drive and powered by photons (light), the need to change batteries has been entirely eliminated. Citizen’s Proximity also has a dual power reserve indicator that will let you know the status of both the timekeeping, and Bluetooth capable systems at a glance. The watch itself also has more than the usual timekeeping assets including a perpetual calendar, chronograph and a dual time display. Large but not huge at 45 mm, the stainless steel watch is water resistant to 10 atm and held in place with a very sporty perforated leather strap. Retail price is $495.

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SPORTS TIME

n a world of overblown and over-sized watches, Davosa has tempered the potential enthusiasm to follow the more fleeting trends seen by scores of other brands in favor of a more traditional approach to both size and style. You won’t shock the locals when they see a Davosa on your wrist, but you will have the knowledge that you’ve acquired a timeless design in a real Swiss-made watch at a very aggressive price point. A great example of the classic look is the Speedline collection featured here. Fit and finish are excellent and at 42 mm x 12 mm, the Speedline is easy to wear for any size wrist. Subtle attention to details are the contrasting polished and satin finishes on the case and bracelet with a bright polished bezel engraved with a tachymetric scale surrounding the dial. The dial itself is home to a well-balanced layout of chronograph sub-dials that don’t seem to crowd around the center, due in-part to the 42 mm diameter of the case. Sapphire crystals, Super Luminova markers and hands, 316 L steel, and a water resistance rating to 10 atm are the hallmarks of the line. Screw-down pushers and crowns operate the setting and chronograph functions. Offered with a solid steel bracelet and deployant clasp, Speedline makes for a great gift for you or that special graduate at right around $500 for this Swiss quartz regulated version. Available in either black or white dials, you can purchase these and see the entire variety of Swiss Made quartz and mechanical Davosa watches at www.dfreemontwatches.com

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SPECIFICATIONS Calibre: ETA 10211 Height: 12.00 mm Diameter: 42.00 mm Reference: 163.470.15

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SPORTS TIME ALESSI RECORD

Originally released in 2000, the Achille Castiglioni design has been re-released and continues to feature its Lugless” integration of case and strap. Chronograph and time only versions available. Case: 40 mm Black IP Stainless Steel Movement: Japanese Quartz Power reserve: 3 year battery Functions: Chronograph/date Band: Leather Crystal: Mineral Water Resistance: 3 atm Price: $200-$320 Contact: www.store.alessi.com

CAT DU 54

You’ll be hard-pressed to find a cooler watch than the CAT DU 54 for the price. Windows expose the functional coil springs on the pushers accented by carbon fiber on the case-front. Case: 54 mm x 15 mm Stainless steel Movement: Quartz chronograph – Citizen OS10 Power reserve: 3 Year Battery Functions: Chronograph/Date Band: Silicone Crystal: Mineral Water Resistance: 10 atm Price: $380 Contact: www.catwatches.com

CASIO EDIFICE ERA200DB-1AV

A cumbersome name for a cool watch, the new Casio incorporates technology that reduces the compass’s power consumption by as much as 90% and automatically illuminates the dial with a tilt of the wrist. Case: 49.8 mm x 13.1 mm Movement: Japanese quartz Power reserve: 2 year battery Functions: Chronograph/thermometer/compass/ world time/multiple alarms/lighted dial/perpetual calendar Band: Stainless Steel Crystal: Mineral Water Resistance: 10 atm Price: $350 Contact: www.casio.com

GC HOMME X95001G2S

Combining sport and style the new GC Homme boasts Swiss-Made heritage and exceptional water resistance to 30 atm. Case: 44 mm polished and brushed Stainless Steel with crown protector Movement: Swiss Quartz (Ronda 5030D) Power reserve: 3 year battery Functions: Chronograph/date Band: Rubber Crystal: Sapphire Water Resistance: 30atm Price: $750 Contact: www.Gcwatches.com

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INSIGNUM ABITUS

Designed to stand out in a crowd, I doubt there’s a cuff big enough to cover this 55 mm x 16 mm behemoth. That’s ok, wear your short sleeves and show it off.

Case: 55 mm x 16 mm satin finish ip 316L stainless steel Movement: quartz (Miyota JS-05) Power reserve: 3 year battery Functions: Chronograph/Date Band: 316L IP Stainless Steel Crystal: Hardened Mineral Water Resistance: 10 atm Price: $310 Contact: www.zulutimezone.com

JORG GRAY JG 9700

Extra-wide hands and prominent markers make this sporty Jorg Gray easy to read at a glance.

Case: 46 mm x 13.3 mm brushed stainless steel Movement: Swiss Quartz (Ronda) Power reserve: 3 year battery Functions: Chronograph/date Band: Stainless steel Crystal: Sapphire Water Resistance: 20 atm Price: $750 Contact: www.jorggray.com

JUNKERS “HUGO” JUNKERS SERIES 12

A dual accumulator at nine ‘o clock displays both minutes and hours fro chronograph timing. Be careful not to mistake the alarm function at 6 ‘o clock for a second time zone function.

Case: 42 mm x 12 mm Movement: Swiss quartz (Ronda 5130.D) Power reserve: 3 year battery Functions: chronograph/date/alarm Band: Leather Crystal: Hardened Mineral Water Resistance: 10 atm Price: $449 Contact: www.longislandwatch.com

NIXON 48-20

A thin bezel offers a wider view of the dial giving the impression that this 48mm case is even larger than it is. Crown and chrono buttons left make for a comfortable ride on the wrist.

Case: 48 mm x 13 mm brushed and ip stainless steel Movement: Japanese quartz (Miyota) Power reserve: 3 years Functions: Chronograph/date Band: Stainless steel Crystal: Hardened Mineral Water Resistance: 20 atm Price: $425-$500 Contact: www.nixon.com

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ZULU TIME

IT’S ALL IN THE NAME

Created in styles that speak to their purpose, ArmourLite watches relate well to military and police forces they are designed to serve.

ecently an AboutTime reader asked me what I knew about a watch brand called ArmourLite. For some reason, the name seemed somehow familiar but I could not honestly say that I had any real experience with the brand. After a bit of research and reaching out to the company I realized that the name, which seemed inexplicably familiar to me, was in fact a relatively new company that I had not yet contacted directly. Clearly it was time to learn more. What I discovered was that a former member of the watch industry had taken the leap and created his own line of toughened timepieces with military and police use in-mind. Founder Ashley Diner’s previous experience with other brands offered an insight as to what was already available out there, what sold, and what didn’t. Ashley understood from the beginning that making watches tough enough to attract the cops and corps was one thing, making it financially accessible another. With this in-mind the basic tenets of his brand have been identified – including a retail price range from as little as $275 up to a current maximum of $620.

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Based on his own field experience as a competitive long distance swimmer and kayaker – as well as overseeing the service end of a watch business, Mr. Diener had seen enough shattered crystals to realize there was certainly room for improvement on at least that one feature of any watch. Although sapphire is almost scratchproof, it will in fact fail catastrophically and shatter if impacted in the wrong spot with a surprisingly easy blow. This effect can be somewhat mitigated by using thicker crystals, adding a domed shape, and certain other protections like thicker or multiple gaskets and various mounting platforms. Hardened mineral crystal is less prone to shatter as it has a bit more “flex” under stress, but is easier to scratch than sapphire – and under duress will still crack. The ArmourLite approach was a bit different. Taking a step away from the traditional mineral and sapphire choices, ArmourLite actually incorporates a shatterproof glass from a specialized manufacturer and mounts it within a customized rubber mounting ring to almost eliminate the possibility of a shattered crystal. Although I’ve

S P O L A SPECI

not personally confirmed the results, the company’s own materials claim a 6,000 Vickers hardness rating versus the usual 700 Vickers of a typical sapphire crystal. Civilians and civil servants will both appreciate the fact that the “lite” in ArmourLite refers to the MB Microtec Tritium tubes used throughout the lines. The new “IsoBrite” series uses the substantially brighter line of T 100 self luminescent tubes. T100 tubes are quite a bit brighter than the more commonly used T 25 versions and really stand out in the dark. Worth noting is that the IsoBrite line also represents an unusual combination of assets. Designed to be ultra-light, the case is made of Polycarbonate, yet the dial is protected by a sapphire crystal. Why no shatterproof glass on the IsoBrite? Accord-

ing to Mr. Diener the shatter-proof glass is engineered specifically for cases up to 45 mm and their customers feedback pointed to the desire for a larger watch that would wear lighter on the wrist than the steel options. I’m actually test-driving one of these right now and will give my two-cents on it in our next issue. Clarifying a common question on their web-site regarding the toughness of the shatter proof glass and having a little fun in the process, ArmourLite stipulates that ”shatterproof glass is not the same as bulletproof glass. Our watches are not designed to stop a bullet. More importantly, we do not promote the shooting of innocent watches.” www.armourlite.com

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DIVING By Steve Lundin

HOUR BAHAMAS Dive Watch Adventure

ive for three hours in the Bahamas and leave the same day?! Impossible if you fly there, but we found a unique way to maximize travel dive time and minimize expenses during our 30 hour Bahamas adventure. This fast paced turn and burn trip to test out four exciting new dive watches was designed to take the hassle and off-gassing inconvenience out of dive travel utilizing the Balèaria Bahamas Express fast ferry from Fort Lauderdale, Florida to the Grand Bahamas. Looking for a way to spend as much time under water as possible while minimizing costs? Here’s the playbook and the watches to wear! Your adventure starts in Summertime Miami: Early Summer is considered the off season in Florida, but it’s not as hot as the snowbirds would like to you think! Take advantage of the seasonal price drop phenomena and get your vacation chops warmed up with a fun day of people watching and nightlife on Miami Beach. Summer flights to Miami are a steal, as are car rentals. For less than $25 a day you can drive a premium car from virtually any of the major companies. Fly in to MIA early, grab your vehicle, get some sun and end the evening in Fort Lauderdale, where you’ll find a four star hotel room for less than $100 a night. Take the morning fast ferry to Grand Bahamas Island: The Baleria Bahamas Express is a fast floating boutique hotel. Roomy and comfortable, this ship cruises at between 28-32 knots and features wide chairs, several pay out slot machines, multiple bars, food and a duty free shop (stocking items like Johnny Walker Blue) that hands you

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your merchandise on the spot. The Ferry leaves at 9:00 and you’re in the Bahamas before noon, with most trips running 2.5 hours. Bring your laptop and get some work done with their free WiFi or just kick back and have a few drinks. Round trips for an overnight stay are less than $200 first class, with economy class and weekday special available on the website. Parking is $15 per night. Check in at the Lucyana Hotel: This four star resort charges $400 a night for a room in season, but you can score one for $150 a night in the off season. Dump your bags, grab your gear and head out. Get wet with Grand Bahamas Scuba: You’ll have plenty of time for a dive the day you arrive. Grand Bahamas shuttle will pick you up and drop you off. Enjoy dinner at the hotel or one of the many restaurants in the market across the street from your hotel, get a good night’s sleep, and then head out for a morning dive. You’ll have time for a two-three tank dive; then catch a cab back to the dock for the Ferry’s 6:00 departure. Because you didn’t fly in you won’t have to worry about nitrogen gas buildup. You can spend a final night in Miami and jet out in the morning. Our travel watches for this excursion included the newest offering from Reactor, Renato, Deep Blue and NFW. They were selected in the spirit of the trip: a lot of watch for the money. From big and brawny to sleek and functional, any of this crop of dive watches will make ideal traveling companions for your own Bahamas 30 hour turn and burn dive adventure!

Titanium Gamma

Case diameter: 45.5 Thickness: 13.8 Weight: 138 grams Width at lug: 28mm Width of bracelet: 22mm • 300 M depth tested • 120 click unidirectional timing bezel Solid titanium construction • K1 crystal • Never Dark dial technology • 10 year lithium battery • 4 layers of antiglare on back side of crystal Suggested retail: $600

Oksana Khliuniak – Bikini model shot in front of Versace mansion and on Miami Beach

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DIVING

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DIVING

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DIVING

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TNW E WSST E E L Luminox introduces the first Limited Edition Tony Kanaan Valjoux Luminox introduces the Limited Edition Tony Kanaan Valjoux Automatic. When Tony Kanaan wanted to create a watch that would be part of his ESSENTIAL GEAR for his active lifestyle, he turned to Luminox. In collaboration, they have produced three Limited Edition series which have all sold out! The fourth Tony Kanaan series was released in Fall 2012 and this is the first Limited Edition (311 pieces) with a Valjoux movement, a skeleton back and sapphire crystals on top and bottom. All Tony Kanaan models feature his signature asymmetrical high polish black PVD-treated 316L stainless steel case with carbon fiber inlay on the sides. The Valjoux model has a classic upscale look with a black vertically textured acid-etched dial for textural contrast. Kanaan is currently driving Car #11 for KV Racing Technology and this model also features his logo, car number and green and yellow racing colors. “Luminox keeps hitting the ball out of the park. The Valjoux is a testament of how you can perfect a design without changing its characteristics. This is a beautiful timepiece." Kanaan comments. ABOUT TONY KANAAN Born in 1974, Tony Kanaan started racing go-karts in his native Brazil at the age of 8, later making his way to Europe and then to the US where he established his racing career. His impressive North American debut season included wins at Detroit and Laguna Seca, a second-place finish at the Indy Light Championship, and a Rookie of the Year Award. The next year Tony won the Indy-Lights Championship and moved up to the CART Series in 1998. In 2004 Kanaan claimed the IndyCar title, completing every single of the 3,305 laps of that season, making him the first IndyCar Series driver to achieve such feat. To date, he has claimed a total of 15 IndyCar race victories and 15 pole positions and holds the current of record of consecutive starts for an active IndyCar driver, at 190. Kanaan is the only driver to lead the Indianapolis 500 in each of his first seven starts and was the winner of the 2013 Indianapolis 500. TK, as he is known around the paddock is also an avid amateur triathlete. In 2011 he competed for the first time in the Kona Ironman World Championship finishing the 2.4 miles swim, 112 miles bike and 26.2 miles run in just under 13 hours.

TW Steel Unveils Sahara Force India Formula One Watches Oversized Timepiece Brand Showcases Six-Model Collection New York, NY (June 28th, 2013) - TW Steel, the global brand ‘Big in Oversized Watches’, unveiled the design of its all new six-model Sahara Force India Formula One Team collection today as the Silverstone-based outfit hosted an exclusive launch event for media within the Formula One Paddock ahead of this weekend’s British Grand Prix, Friday 28th – Sunday 30th June. Having first announced its status as ‘Official Timing Partner’ to Sahara Force India back in February, TW Steel showcased the next phase of its relationship with the team with the introduction of the Sahara Force India Pilot Editions – set to retail in late July. These dynamic new timepieces elegantly reflect the successful TW Steel Pilot model DNA, with bold, stylish, clean looks, while incorporating subtle yet powerful design accents to marry them to the Sahara Force India brand – including featuring the team’s patriotic logo, both on the dial and engraved on the case backs.

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Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry Supports Chime For Change With Gucci Sync Collection

Gc celebrates Global “Moments of Smart Luxury” Swiss Made brand Gc celebrated its global exhibition of “Moments of Smart Luxury – captured by Gc”. Twoyears after the launch of this international photographic campaign, Gc presented images of over 100 creative rising stars, as well as of the photographer of the whole project, Pino Gomes. These artistic black and white images are published in an exclusive book that proposes the whole emotional world of Gc – authentic dedicated people living out their dreams and captured at a moment when they lose themselves in their passion. Gc also launched its new advertising campaign based on the same imagery reinforced by the claim: Realize your dream. The Gc “Rising Stars” featured in the press release: Sabrine El Hossamy, Darbuka percussionist, Egypt. Maddalena Miramonti, pianist, Italy. Ricardo Velásquez, opera singer, Panama. Big Dani Pérez, saxophonist, Spain. Shayma Al-Mughairy, sand artist, United Arab Emirates Amore, classical opera group consisting of four artists: baritone, Peter Brathwaite; tenor, David Webb; mezzo United Kingdom

Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry is pleased to announce that its newly released GUCCI SYNC watch has been selected to support CHIME FOR CHANGE, the recently launched campaign for women’s and girls’ empowerment founded by Gucci. Gucci and CHIME FOR CHANGE are working with fundraising partner, Catapult.org, the first crowdfunding platform dedicated to advancing the lives of girls and women. Catapult is a technology platform that connects CHIME FOR CHANGE community members directly to organizations and projects focused on the causes that matter most to them, and currently represents over 80 organizations in 70 countries. GUCCI SYNC, which stands for Social Young Network Community, has been chosen as the flagship watch for this initiative as it reflects the strong commitment towards social networks and digital platforms to engage and motivate people across the world. The GUCCI SYNC model comes in two sizes, XXL (46mm) or large (36mm), in both a black and white version. The Gucci logo is etched around the stainless steel case at 9 o’clock and also appears on the dial, along with the iconic interlocking ‘GG’ symbol. The timepiece features a variation of the iconic Gucci web stripe integrated into the rubber strap and as a color accent on the crown. Retail price is $495 for either size. More information can be found on www.gucci.com/us/ category/m/watches and the GUCCI SYNC new MySpace page at new.myspace.com/guccisync

A multi-year relationship will see the TW Steel become an Official Sponsor of Yamaha Factory Racing – the Italian-based squad competing this season with the enviable rider pairing of reigning MotoGP™ World Champion, Spain’s Jorge Lorenzo (#99), and Italian legend and multiple MotoGP™ World Champion, Valentino Rossi (#46). TW Steel will further cement its partnership later in the season with the introduction of an all new Yamaha Factory Racing collection. “Our association with Yamaha Factory Racing simply showcases once again TW Steel’s ambition as a global brand,” commented TW Steel CEO and co-owner, Jordy Cobelens. “It gives us great pleasure to be able to welcome TW Steel to the world of Yamaha Factory Racing and to the world of MotoGP,” says Lin Jarvis, Managing Director of Yamaha Factory Racing. “TW Steel is a young company and they share the same passion as our team in the way they go about producing their watches. We have worked together to develop a range of exclusive TW Steel – Yamaha Factory Racing watches that have been designed upon our YZR-M1 racing machines and our team will wear these watches at race tracks around the world”. TW Steel’s relationship with Yamaha Factory Racing compliments its presence in Formula One as the ‘Official Timing Partner’ to Sahara Force India and other racing icons including Mick Doohan, Emerson Fittipaldi, David Coulthard and Dario Franchitti.

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As a first of its kind AboutTIme focuses exclusively on accessibly priced watches.

FUNCTION and FASHION for the wrist What you will find in AboutTime is a huge diversity of great watches from both iconic brands and newcomers alike. What you won’t find is any watch costing more than $2,400 retail !

PRINT SUBSCRIPTIONS: One Year (6 Issues) $29 (Digital Included FREE) Two Years (12 Issues)

$54 (Digital Included FREE)

DIGITAL ONLY SUBSCRIPTIONS:

$12 Two Years (12 Issues) $24 One Year (6 Issues)

With a growing vintage collecting community, AboutTime will also include choice vintage watches and offer details on collecting, brand communities, and events. Categorical guides in every issue of AboutTime will help expand/refine your search and help steer you to your next watch. Published 6 times per year in print and digital editions - find out why its AboutTime at: www.isochronmedia.com

www.luminox.com facebook.com/Luminox

Function and Fashion for the Wrist AUGUST/SEPTEMBER INSIDE / 2013 - ISSUE #3

WHICH WATCH IS RIGHT FOR YOU SLINGSHOX CUSTOM COVERS

Now You Absolutely Must buy a G-Shock

COLOR-KEY

Going Green

QUANTUM TRIAD

RITMO MVNDO

LATEST DESIGN LEAPS FORWARD

About Time_AL_Diving_baldwin 7/1/13 5:27 PM Page 1

EDITOR’S NOTE

Roberta Naas roberta@isochronmedia.com www.atimelyperspective.com

DESIGN DRIVEN With clocks surrounding us on computers, iPhones and other devices – let’s face it, the watch is just not a necessary timetelling instrument. But it is a necessary item. A watch tells so much about the person wearing it. It makes a statement of individuality and personality. When I see a guy wearing a bold sporty watch, I figure he enjoys outdoor activities. Women wearing a little bling exude a sense of self-confidence and style. I can get a sense of if someone is a car lover, a banker, a free-thinker just by looking at his or her watch. Sometimes, I even ask them about their interests and usually they’re really happy to talk about what they love and how their watch purchase was influenced by their hobbies or profession. One over-riding factor, though, from both men and women when it comes to their final watch purchase, is the look and design of the piece. Today, watch brands have moved design to an all-new level – reaching outside of the watch industry and into a host of other realms. Some brands turn to outside freelance designers to broaden their horizons. One brand hired an industrial designer (who also created Apple products) to collaborate on a watch, others have turned not only to industrial artists, but also to architectural designers and even contemporary furniture designers. While couture designers bring a real flair of fashion and color to the wrist, these new-wave watch designers bring an outside perspective. They look at watches as art, architecture, or sculpture. They ask questions that challenge them to bring their designs to a new level, such as: “What does the ultimate wearer want in a watch from this brand? “ “Who is that ultimate wearer and what risks does he take when putting a watch on his wrist?” and a host of other concerns. Recently, when I sat with a well-known architect turned watch designer (if you peruse www.atimelyperspective.com you will find A Moment in Time with this designer), he shared his concept of design – stating that every watch design should be a challenge to the designer and a gift to the end wearer. So the next time you look at a watch – consider if it offers you something different enough that speaks to your likes and your inner self.

Roberta Naas Editor

AboutTime Magazine | FASHION 3

CONTENTS

FASHION FEATURES

20 20 COVER STORY: RITMO MUNDO’S

DESIGN LEAP

06 DAVID MCCREADY

ECLECTIC COLLECTING

26 GUIDELINES TO BUYING

ABOUTTIME ASKS THE QUESTIONS TO HELP YOU PICK YOUR NEXT WATCH

48 CRAZY COVERS

ICONIC WATCH GETS A CHANGE OF CLOTHES

48 FASHION DEPARTMENTS 03 EDITOR’S NOTE 10 EDITOR’S PICKS 38 COLOR KEY 40 DISPLAY PLAY 42 SHAPE UP 44 SHOW OFF 65 COMICS

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DAVID MCCREADY

COLUMNIST

By D. Freemont McCready

David Freemont McCready www.dfreemontwatches.com

Watch What Happens II

uestion? How many watches constitute a collection…? Let’s try six. I took notice that on my dresser there are six watches that tend to hang-out there. Consider that I have a four-figure inventory of new and pre-owned watches; wouldn’t it be more likely that I’d have a larger assortment on my dresser? My personal watches include d.freemont – Santorini, d.freemont Airbatic, a Davosa Trenos, an old Brietling Shark, and a 1950’s Girard Perregaux. And, you couldn’t have guessed this one in a thousand years, an Armitron (quartz chrono-alarm). Let’s stir this pot a little more… what about that Armitron – why? Sometime ago I hurriedly left the studio and mistakenly picked up the Armitron, thinking it was a d.freemont Acugraph, I put it on and had to live with it the entire day. You can imagine that d.freemont, who is devoted to mechanical watches, had to minimize this error and carefully hide the watch from prying eyes throughout the conference, a watch seminar. That Armitron lay on the dresser for about a month before I wore it again – that day was to have some rough events, so in an effort not to abuse my pet watches – the Armitron went to work with me; it’s like an old pair of boots, ready for anything but dancing. So where am I going here…it’s human nature to protect your attitude and status. Snob appeal abounds in the watch industry – I have a relative who has a “President” that hasn’t kept reliable time in years…he wears it to enforce his smack appeal.Then there is the old watch like my Breitling Shark, a watch I traded in on a new Davosa; it was in pitiful shape. I liked its honest work, semi-battered

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appearance; then taking one step at a time, I installed a new movement (ETA 2824) like the original, repaired the case tube and fitted a genuine lizard strap – WOW! A tasty watch to be sure. You see the reasons are reasonless, just like picking a mate; it seems like the Almighty is in charge of our peculiarities. Let’s not dismiss any watch that works hard for you keeping up with time…watches have a deep amulet value, almost like a St. Christopher for the wrist. Therein is the meat of my plea – you will always need a small collection, perhaps to ward off a variety of lingering curses. I highly recommend that you confine your desires to watches you can afford to own and not willing to sacrifice when money gets tight. That philosophy points to pre-owned watches and modestly priced new watches…that price range is the merit of this magazine - $2,400 and under. Consider the retail price of a new watch…$1,500, for example. That watch may be discounted to about $1,200 then within two to three years it will have a resale value of about 40% of the original selling price or about $500. Here is where your collecting will get its start. A good watch value for $500 that originally carried a SRP of $1500, that’s collectible. My first suggestion, however, is to choose a unique watch that you find fanciful, a watch that tells more than time, and perhaps something about you – a companion of quality and enduring classic style. This early leap into a good watch should embrace a classic rendition…stay away from fad watches. Remember that the Swiss standard ETA movements are difficult to eclipse at any price. They are reliable, easy to service and parts are always available from

David Freemont McCready 2008

I Believe in Mistakes Miracles are generated by mistakes The stuff of errors is also the meat of destiny Would you sit by – idly while things go right? Not wondering what could have been out of sight. We are inheritors of the way of the sails Isn’t it just that we go with the wind? Or isn’t it more daring to tack in its face I wish I would have taken the storm in my face Too little planning is the stuff of great adventure Organize your life and miss all its surprises Marvel if you must that complex can be simple Error in favor of adventure But simple is the result of complexity Condensed grains of sand and bits of wood Calculations reduced to buttons Understanding reduced to rubble Are we now so modern? Simplicity of addition subtracted

reputable watch repair persons. Once you have your first choice on your wrist you can begin to explore the pre-owned arena—that’s when the fun begins. Did I say, “Fun”? Well, take a look at your automotive purchases – how long did those once nifty vehicles remain in your stable? Like anything else you must look at long term residual value. If you obligate yourself to a $7000 watch, applying my previously depreciation example… in just a few years you would be hard pressed to get $2500 for it. Now, apply that $5000 potential loss to purchasing pre-owned depreciated watches. Like magic you are a collector. And what if you make a mistake?

AboutTime Magazine | FASHION 7

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

Congratulations on your new magazine. I bought the first issue some months ago, and was happy to see the second issue and purchase it a week ago. I like the concept: “Affordable” watches. (Even if the upper end of your “affordable” is still a little rich for this free-lance writer’s blood.) I do wish you would show more watch movements. (Especially for mechanical movements. Let’s be frank—even the highest-grade quartz movements aren’t much to look at. My advice to people is that if you love watches, never look at the movement of your quartz watch. A technological marvel it is, but something to look at which has a beating heart like a jeweled-mechanical—no comparison.) I read all the major watch magazines that come through our local major bookstores, except for the Robb Report watch issue, which simply seems a collection of ads, with little if any editorial content. I have written about Victorinox Swiss Army and Wenger watches in the past for outdoor sports magazines to which I contribute, and plan to update my coverage of them and also write about a brand you should consider having someone report on—Armour Lite. This newcomer is designed primarily for police and military, and its claim to fame is an almost shatter-proof crystal. (I understand that at the major trade show where they were introduced, every so often the people manning their booth would take out hammers and start pounding on the crystals, without damage—at least to the crystal.) I am glad that you are using some different writers. I proposed an article to one of THE major watch magazines some years ago, and can imagine the editor sniffing and looking down his nose as he replied to me they only dealt with writers they already dealt with, or some such. I would like to see you cover the ETA 28XX movements (of which I guess the 2824-2 is the most well known—in a watch guide I have seen this “workhorse” movement used in at least one line listing at more than $100,000, although as you know, you can also find it in watches for as little as $300 or so.) I hope you go from quarterly to bimonthly soon. Keep up the good work. Sincerely, —Mac O.

Dear AboutTime staff; I waited to see the second issue of your beautiful magazine before passing on my comments; I was not disappointed after enjoying the first issue so much, which I bought twice. (One to dog-ear and one to keep in good shape.) It feels great to peruse a selection of desirable watches I can actually afford. Thanks. —John S.

Hello, I recently discovered your magazine, and I love it! Is it possible to purchase any back issues? I just purchased the Spring 2013 issue; I am assuming there was one previous to this one? When is your summer issue due out? Also, I would love to see more attention to women’s watches in your magazine, particularly mechanical women’s watches. I love the mechanical watches, but there doesn’t seem to be much for us women—-particularly those of us who are small and cannot wear a super-sized watch. Thanks for an interesting and inspiring publication! Sincerely, —Loran M.

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EDITOR’S PICKS

AWI LIGHTWEIGHT Even with a 50 mm diameter case the new Titanium 50 series from AWI feels surprisingly light on the wrist. Warm tones of brushed titanium and a carbon fiber dial give this sports watch promote an air that it means business. Small but relevant attention to details are elicited in the perfectly integrated rubber strap that hugs the lines of the case – as well as the rubber ringed and grooved crown. Movement is an automatic mechanical. Water resistance rated to 10 atm. Retail price $575. Find a retailer at www.awi-global.com

DOUBLE “8” ROSE The Double 8 Origin Black Rose Chrono exudes the modern and chic personality of the brand. This latest watch from 88 Rue du Rhone offers ladies a refined and highly-polished PVD case in a chronograph style enriched with rose gold accents. With a case slightly larger than usual for a ladies watch at 35 mm, the beauty and refinement are embellished with six diamonds on the dial set beside rose gold Roman numerals that add a subtle hint of femininity. Prominent chronograph pushers and setting crown are also plated with the same rich rose gold hue to counterpoint the deep black hues of the case, dial, and strap. Retail Price $675. www.88rdr.com

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EDITOR’S PICKS

BE CAREFUL HOW YOU USE IT Yvan Arpa seems to like being somewhat of a “bad boy” in the watch industry. Loathe to follow the crowd, Arpa was the driving force behind the somewhat controversial Titanic DNA watches by Romaine Jerome and continues to push the high-end envelope with his own eccentric take on watches with his Artya collection. Arpa has also introduced the “Black Belt” line of watches. With one version reserved only verified black belt holders, the rest of us brown (leather) belts and below can buy from a whole series of inspired BB designs. Priced from as little as $200 up to $450, the sizes, designs, and functions cultivate a huge variety of inspired types. www.blackbeltwatch.com

JORG GRAY 8300 SERIES A great summer look in contrasting steel and blue, the 8300 is also available in a black and steel look as well as a dressier black PVD and gold version. Inside lies a Swiss Ronda quartz-controlled movement, and a sapphire crystal sits on top and will resist scratching. Water resistant to 10 atm, the case makes for an imposing, if not overwhelming presence at 47 mm x 12.5 mm. All four versions are comfortably held in-place by an integrated rubber strap and all 8300 series timepieces retail for $695. www.jorggray.com or your local retailer.

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ALPHA MARINE 500 T-100 TRITIUM Swiss Eta 2824-2 , 45mm case 316L Stainless steel , Unidirectional bezel with Luminous sapphire inlay, Full Lume Dial with Superluminova, 28 Swiss Trigalight Green Tritium Tubes Glow for 25 years, Sapphire crystal AR Coated, Water Resistant 500m/1650Ft

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212-213-5128

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EDITOR’S PICKS

CASUAL DENIM Diesel Denim have arrived in two colors and two sizes. Although they refer to the 42 mm version as “slightly” more feminine, both of these watches are unisex styles that both men and women can enjoy – whether in the enormous 51 mm or the simply full size 42 mm versions. The more active buyer may opt for the smaller of the two which is actually rated to 10 atm whereas the larger version is only rated to 5 atm. $225 at www.diesel.com/watches

GUESS TIESTO You get a lot of style for $150 ($175 on bracelet) from Guess. In this version the rose gold tone and blue come together to create a style that is tough to beat for the price. Included is a 10 year limited warrantee and the watch is rated to 10atm. www.guesswatches.com

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available at

210 Bellevue Avenue Newport, RI 02840 (401)846-0598 www.grenons.com

EDITOR’S PICKS

“DRESSED” IN STYLE Alessi watches are designed in a variety of styles that seem to know no bounds. Playful children’s styles, bold colors and a mix of shapes and materials are all part of the lineup. One newer watch that caught my eye is the Marcel Wandersdesigned “Dressed” watch in black. Fully dressed in black with gray and silver accents, the new Alessi has a svelte minimalist case with an integrated mesh bracelet. An hour hand reminiscent of the type on an 18th century grandfather clock adds a flourish of style to the otherwise austere look. Retail price $270. www.alessi.com

ANDROID PARMA Opalescent hues dance across the black motherof-pearl dial protected by a 46 mm satin/polished stainless steel chunk of steel. The porthole design case on the new Parma combines a cushion shape and a round bezel for a great look. Bold luminous hour markers and hands make reading a snap on this dressy sport watch. As refined as the look may be, you can feel free to take it to the beach, as it boasts a 20-atm waterresistance rating. Inside beats a Miyota automatic mechanical movement tracking the time. Retail price $450. www.android-usa.com

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EDITOR’S PICKS

THE HUNT FOR NIXON’S OCTOBER In a throw-back design, Nixon’s new line draws inspiration from the gauges found on older submarine instrument panels. Very large and crafted in steel with a domed Mineral crystal, the new October is available in several versions. All share the commonality of a robust 48 mm case water resistant to 30 atm, as well as vintage style wire lugs, a domed mineral crystal and a left-hand placement of the crown. Variations do include a polished steel version with black dial, a stealthy black ion plated case version with a red inner ring, and the “sniper” series with the same black IP case and an orange tinted crystal. Prices range from $300 for the steel/black to $350 for either black-cased version. www.nixon.com

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RITMO MVNDO By Gary George

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Quantum of

Ritmo A triad of types set to launch this fall

laying with shapes, materials and colors is nothing new for the creative minds behind the new Quantum series. Previously Ritmo Mundo has offered their own bold vision of wrist wear at a remarkably wide variety of price points—from the very expensive to the easily accessible. At the top of the Ritmo pyramid, the Persepolis and Puzzle watches integrated radical new designs that not only provoked the imagination, but also engaged the wearer to “play” with the watch. Whether spinning it on its axis in the case of the Persepolis, or sliding puzzle pieces around on the eponymous Ritmo series, these high-end watches were timekeepers with a playful penchant. This same creative drive was also brought forth in a variety of much more affordable watches that contain the same colorful esprit, but could be attained by a far wider audience—some with starting prices as low as a few hundred dollars. Landing somewhere between the opulent and the “popular” extremes is the new Quantum series. Divided into three lines, Quantum I, II, and II, use a black PVD case as the canvas on which to express an edgy sense of style at a price point around $1,000 - depending on the version and the case size. By no means is $1,000 cheap, but a closer perusal of the watches reveals that there are few if any off-the-shelf elements in the quantum case and

dial construction. All three series share certain elements, including the use of black PVD-coated 316 L steel, a threaded case back and hardened mineral crystals over the dials. Also common to each is use of stark contrast with electric colors of anodized aluminum accenting black backgrounds. Although Quantums I and II do have an all black version —eschewing any color-play in favor of the popular “stealth” look. All Quantums are also fitted with a quartz regulated chronograph movement supplied by the Swiss firm Ronda AG, and all three are available in a 50 mm stainless steel with black PVD case that’s water resistant to 10 atm. Framing the dial on the Quantum I are shoulders of anodized aluminum in black, blue, orange, or red with matching accents over the chronograph pushers. The multi-part case allows for a fully integrated effect with materials melding together almost seamlessly. Although not necessarily billed as a racing or driving-type watch, the structural elements on the lugs, a carbon fiber dial, and a tachymeter scale on the dial all work to infuse a feeling of speed into the coachworks of the Quantum I.

AboutTime Magazine | FASHION 21

RITMO MVNDO

Situated at the fulcrum of the tri-partite series, the Quantum II creates an unbalanced effect with a strong display of color framing one side of the case with only a touch of matching color on the other. Quantum II is also the only version currently available in a more modest 43 mm case in addition to the larger 50 mm version. Having worn them both on my fairly large (7 1/2”) wrist I can say that by no means should the 43 mm be strictly consigned to the fairer sex—but should be considered as an option for anyone looking for the same Quantum design school in more moderated proportions. In addition to the blue, orange, red, and all-black versions, the Quantum II is also offered in rose gold and silver accented versions for a more restrained expression of the style.

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RITMO MVNDO

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Closing out the series is the Quantum III. Like the bad guy in Batman, the Quantum III offers a dichotomy of personalities. One half of the watch has gone to the dark side and offers an austere all-black look that carries the Ritmo logo over an aggressive carbon fiber dial. The other half deletes the carbon fiber and adds a dash of electric color. An oversize date sits atop the dial divided and a fixed bezel follows the split design cues established on the dial. The more daring fashionista may appreciate the addition of the bolder purple and green versions to the Quantum III series. Having been introduced to all three Quantums at once, my initial reaction had me leaning towards the Quantum I as my own pick of the crop. And although they all have their own appeal, I’ve found myself leaning towards the split personality of the Quantum III as my new favorite. Perhaps like a song that you’re not sure you like at first that later becomes a favorite, the unsettling nature of new design sometimes takes a while to entice you to its own rhythms. Pick your own beat at www.ritmomundo.com

AboutTime Magazine | FASHION 25

By Jeff Stein

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ne of the burdens of being known as a “watch guy” is that friends and family members regularly ask me for recommendations when they are buying new watches. A colleague wants to buy a Patek Philippe for her husband’s 50th birthday and asks me “what’s the difference between an annual calendar and a perpetual calendar”. My sarcastic answer: “about $40,000”. A friend wants to spend $500 on a vintage dive watch, and seeks recommendations of Seiko’s “Orange Monsters” and “Tuna Cans”. I enjoy helping people choose their watches. It’s always good fun spending other people’s money, and satisfying to help them find the perfect watch. The watch buying scenario that I most enjoy is helping a friend buy his or her first “serious” watch. Occasions that trigger the decision buy a good watch can vary. It may be a bride wanting to buy a keepsake watch for her groom, or the doctor who has just graduated from medical school, or the young businesswoman celebrating her first promotion. My four children in the 20 to 27 age bracket have proven to be a reliable source of “clients” for these new watches, as their friends join the workforce and decide that they want something more stylish than a smartphone to tell the time of day. In many instances, my new friend knows that he wants to buy a “good” watch, but he is unable to provide any additional description about what he likes or dislikes. I ask, “Black dial or silver dial?” and he counters, “What’s the difference?” I ask, “large or small?”, and the answer is usually, “medium.” And so we embark on the process of helping the newest enthusiast select the watch of his or her dreams. Over my years of advising on watch purchases, I have developed a series of 10 questions that help us select the best watch for any occasion. More important than the questions, however, is the process through which the novice will go about answering the questions. Answering these questions typically involves trying on watches at retailers, going through watch magazines with “sticky notes”, visiting watch websites and conferring with experts. It is only after going

through this process that my new friend will be confident that he has selected his perfect watch.

WE BEGIN WITH THE 10 QUESTIONS THAT WILL HELP THE BEGINNER FIND HIS OR HER PERFECT WATCH:

WHEN WILL YOU BE WEARING YOUR NEW WATCH? Anyone buying a good watch should ask himself when he will wear the watch. A watch to be worn on special occasions or with a suit or tuxedo will be very different from the watch that will survive the morning work-out or daily use on a construction site. The world of watches is broadly divided into the “dress” and “sport” categories, and this first question can almost be phrased a choice between these categories. Yes, many people will wear a dive watch with a tuxedo, but the selection of a special watch becomes easier if it will not be worn every day for every occasion. Some watches will do better than others, however, as “full-time” watches, and if that will be the watch’s role, then this may inform the selection process. You should also consider the question of whether this will be your only watch, or might it be the beginning of a small collection? Owning more than one watch will help define the search, as you can visualize having a variety of watches for different occasions, rather than one “everyday” watch. Fashion watches comprise a third category, although there is overlap with the sport and dress categories. Most leading fashion brands offer a line of watches, so if you have favorite designers, their watches may also appeal to your eye.

WHAT WILL YOUR FRIENDS SEE? Even though your new watch will be very special to you, and you will cherish every detail, it may come as something of a surprise that you will go through life with most of your friends and colleagues seeing

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• SHAPE. Round cases are the standard, but rectangular, square, tonneau or cushion shapes can offer more distinctive looks. Elvis wore an asymmetrical watch from the 1950s, cases began to grow in the late 1960s, and by the 1970s lumps of stainless steel were being shaped into previously unimaginable forms.

• SIZE. Today, a watch is considered large if it measures 45 millimeters across the dial, medium at around 40 millimeters and small in the 35 millimeter range. Thickness also varies considerably, with a 15 millimeter case seeming “fat” and 8 millimeters being “slim”. The popularity of larger or smaller watches seems to follow regular cycles or fashion trends, perhaps moving up and down along with the length of women’s skirts or the Dow Jones Industrial Average. The best advice may be to pay less attention to fashion trends and more attention to the look and feel of the watch on your wrist. Rather than focusing on the size of the wrist, you should pay more attention to your height and weight, so be sure that a watch matches

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PHOTS CREDIT: CROWN AND CALIBER

the watch only from some distance. (Yes, we wish there were more watch enthusiasts in the world, to inspect and admire every detail of your new watch; reality suggests that we are a relatively small percentage of the population.) From a distance, only four elements of the watch will matter – the shape, the size, the case material and the color of the dial. So, like the four “C”s used to describe a diamond, these become the defining features of most watches, at least from a distance.

up with your size. If the watch is too big, it may look like you have strapped on a wall clock; if it’s too small, it may look lost or too delicate on your wrist.

• MATERIAL. Once upon a time, wristwatches were primarily two colors -- silver and gold. The silver might be stainless steel or chromium-plated brass; the gold watch might be 18 karat, 14 karat or gold-plated. A classic rule of thumb might have suggested gold for a dressier look and stainless steel for a sport watch, although there are plenty of elegant steel watches and sporty gold watches. Today, the purchaser has a far broader range of materials. Titanium offers a combination of light weight and strength, black PVD defines the military look, and ceramics or plastics offer colorful choices. Any of these materials are likely to be rugged enough for daily use, so the choice of the case material is almost entirely a matter of your aesthetic preference.

• DIAL. In the days of black and white televisions, most watches were also offered with a choice of either a black dial or a white dial (often a silver

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“SELECT YOUR STYLE: YOUR PERFECT WATCH MIGHT BE A SIMPLE DRESS WATCH (GP) OR AN ORNATE CHRONOGRAPH FROM A DESIGNER (CARTIER); YOUR CHOSEN THEME MIGHT BE DIVING (TAG HEUER), FLYING (VIXA), ADVENTURE (SINN) OR MOTORSPORTS (HEUER).

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tone). In recent years, however, there has been a trend toward more colorful watches, with dials ranging from charcoal to chocolate, and from light gray to midnight blue. Sports watches offer a variety of colors, with bright orange and yellow classic colors for dive watches. Dials for dress watches use a variety of finishes, including mother-ofpearl, lacquered, textured or guilloche.

WHICH FINE DETAILS DO YOU LIKE? Having determined what the watch should look like from a distance of 10 feet, we now focus on the fine details that will make your watch special. Here, we are looking for elements such as the finish of the dial, the shape of the hands, the style of numerals or markers and other elements that may be visible only at close range. When you start your search, you may ask “What’s a bezel?’ After you do some looking, you may have a fondness for bezels that are stepped, knurled, grains of rice or [something]. Perhaps a display back show-

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ing a well-finished movement is the ultimate form of private pleasure, as you will see the beauty of the movement only when you remove the watch. Think of these as the “private” details of your new watch that will make you happy every time you look at the watch, but may never be seen by someone casually glancing at the watch from across your desk.

DO YOU HAVE A FAVORITE LOOK, THEME OR STYLE? In the category known as “tool watches”, form does follow function, and watches designed for diving, flying and driving each have distinctive styles. The dive watch is designed to be waterproof and offers good legibility. The pilot’s watch may offer dual time zones and a slide rule for making computations, as well as legibility in the low light of a cockpit. A watch for motorsports may have a tachymeter scale to measure speed over a measured distance, and enhanced chronograph functions may allow split second or flyback timing. Other watches are styled for polo, regattas or extreme adventures. Watches may be built for specific timing tasks or they may have style entirely for the sake of style. Whether you are looking for a dress watch or a sport watches, you will have many choices in Bauhaus, art deco, modern and techno styles, or in just about any other style that you find appealing.

DO YOU WANT A WELL-KNOWN BRAND? AND SHOULD IT BE SWISS MADE? Some people will only be happy if they are buying (or giving) a brand that is well known, while others may prefer not to have a particular brand name on the dial of their watch. [If a brand is widely known or has a good reputation, then you can expect to be paying for that brand. You should consider whether the benefit of having a well-known brand will be worth the additional cost of the watch.] Most watch enthusiasts would agree that there are many watches with a quality comparable to the “leading brands”, but selling at a discount because of the lack of name recognition. Finding these watches and flying under the radar may be very satisfying for the new enthusiast. Closely related to the decision about brands is the question of whether you want to see “Swiss Made” on the dial, or whether you will be happy with a watch made in Japan or China. Watches from Switzerland and other European countries convey the image of luxury and quality that may be fitting for a special watch. The best watches from Asia have improved significantly in recent years, but they still suffer from the common perception that they lack the quality and finish of Swiss or European watches.

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WOULD YOU PREFER A CLEAN DESIGN, OR WOULD YOU LIKE YOUR WATCH TO HAVE A LITTLE BLING ON ITS CASE, DIAL OR BRACELENT? Whether you want a dress watch or a sports watch, a large one or a small one, in steel or in gold, another key criterion for your new watch will be whether the lines will be clean and simple, with minimal decoration, or would you prefer something more ornate. Common styles of decoration include jewels (set in the case or as markers on the dial), engraving, open dials that show the movement from the front, or “skeleton” watches that let you see all the way through the case. If you are new to the world of wristwatches and would like to add some “bling,” consider whether the watch will wear well over the years or whether you might grow tired of the design. Most of the design classics in the watch world have relatively simple lines.

WHAT ABOUT A CHRONOMETER, CHRONOGRAPH OR OTHER COMPLICATION? A chronometer is a watch that is tested and certified to meet specified precision standards. For a Swiss watch to be designated as a chronometer, it must be certified by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), with well-defined criteria for accuracy (within a range between plus 6 seconds and minus 4 seconds per day). For watches made in other countries, watchmakers use the chronometer designation for their most accurate watches, although there is no official sanctioning body that conducts the testing and certifies a watch’s performance. While complications such as a chronograph, day-date-month calendar, dual time zone display or power reserve indication can add to the price of a watch, you may find these displays to be useful or attractive. A chronograph combines a stopwatch with the usual time of day display, with split second timing or flyback being additional chronograph features. A dual time zone display may be useful for traveling or tracking the time for family members who are abroad. A power reserve is used on a mechanical watch to indicate how much longer the watch will run without being wound. By definition, these complications will make the dial “busier”—which may be something that you may or may not appreciate—and also more expensive.

WOULD YOU CONSIDER A PRE-OWNED, VINTAGE OR HOMAGE WATCH? While someone giving a watch as a gift may want it to be new, shiny and in the box, someone buying a watch for herself may do well to buy a pre-owned or vintage watch. “Pre-owned” generally

refers to a relatively modern watch that is being offered for resale. The first owner may have absorbed the “premium” for purchasing a new watch, and the watch may sell at a nice discount in the “preowned” market. “Vintage” is an entirely different matter, typically referring to a watch that was produced some decades ago. Vintage watches sell at prices driven by the collectability of the watch, rather than the original price of the watch, and several new factors come into play. Has the watch been serviced recently, are there ample parts for the watch (and watchmakers willing to work on them), and can you be certain that the watch is authentic? While it is hazardous to convince yourself that a vintage watch can be an investment, with some careful research and shrewd buying, you may stand a good chance of buying a watch that will maintain its value, or even increase in value. Vintage watches can be ideal for marking special occasions, such as the young doctor’s year of birth or a favorite year in history. If you like the vintage look, but prefer the reliability (and warranty) of a modern watch, you will do well to consider re-issues of some classic watches or watches that pay “homage” to design icons. Many of the great watches from the 1950s and 60s have been re-created in modern form, and sell for considerably less than the vintage icons.

MECHANICAL MOVEMENT OR QUARTZ? Until the late 1960s, and the advent of electronic (quartz) watches, all wristwatches were powered by mechanical movements driven by the power of a spring. The power stored in the mainspring is released through a set of intermediary gears at a controlled rate by the beating organ known as the “escapement”. The intermediary gears also act as the internal controllers for the seconds, minute, and hour indicators. In a “manual” wind mechanical watch, the watch is powered only by the user winding the crown. An “automatic” winding mechanical watch uses the movement of your arm to turn a rotor (oscillating mass), so that the watch is wound whenever it is being worn. Moderately priced mechanical movements typically offer accuracy within a range of 10 to 15 seconds per day, so that the user should expect to adjust the time every few days. Batteries provide the power for most quartz watches, although today’s quartz watches can also be powered by a kinetic or solar source. Regardless of the power source, electricity vibrates a quartz crystal that regulates a magnetic stepping motor, which turns the hands of the watch at a precise rate. Quartz watches offer excellent accuracy, typically in the range of a few seconds per month, and the battery typically has a life of one to three years. For a special watch marking an important occasion, two factors suggest that a mechanical watch may be preferred to a quartz watch. First, when properly serviced, a mechanical watch may be expected to last a lifetime (or even to the next generation), while you

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should expect a quartz watch to have a limited lifespan. Second, high-quality mechanical movements are themselves works of art, making a special purchase or gift all the more treasured in years to come.

DO YOU PREFER A LEATHER STRAP OR A METAL BRACELET? Our final question addresses the issue of how your dream watch will be attached to your wrist. Leather straps are the choice for most watches, whether for dress or sport. A new watch is sold with a designated strap, but you can personalize the watch with an exotic

PHOTO CREDIT: CROWN AND CALIBER

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WATCHES FOR WHICH WATCH EDITORIAL SUPPLIED BY WWW.CROWNANDCALIBER.COM

THIS ARTICLE DEDICATED TO ARI AND NATE: YOU MARRY A STEIN, YOU GET A WATCH.

or colorful leather that you find appealing. Metal bracelets are usually the choice for sport watches, being more comfortable in hot weather and handling perspiration better. Rubber straps are the traditional choice for dive watches, and may offer the best combination of price and performance for rugged use.

PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER – SELECTING THE RIGHT WATCH Now that we have worked through the 10 critical questions that will inform your selection of an important watch, we face the most important question of all. How should the beginner, new to the world of

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PHOTO CREDIT: CROWN AND CALIBER

fine watches, go about answering all these questions, to ensure that he or she selects the perfect watch? There are several steps in the process, as follows:

you should scan the online sellers for additional choices as well as some brands that may not be sold through retail stores. Save the images of your favorite watches to your computer or create an online album that you can share with your friend and advisers.

GO TO STORES AND WEAR THE WATCHES. In the process of selecting a fine watch, the most important step will be visiting stores and trying on watches. My suggestion is to visit two types of stores, to hone in on the right watch. First, good department stores will offer several lines of watches, ranging from inexpensive fashion watches to legitimate luxury watches. Second, you should visit watch stores that carry multiple brands, with these typically being higher priced luxury brands. Keep in mind that at this stage of the game, we are not ready to purchase a watch; the purpose of the store visits is to answer the questions that will allow you to select the right watch, whether a 42 millimeter stainless steel dive watch on a rubber strap or a 36 millimeter gold chronometer, with a white dial, baton hands and applied markers.

STUDY WATCH MAGAZINES. Going through watch magazines, using sticky notes to mark the favorites, or even some favorite elements, is a perfect way to learn about watches. After you have seen enough watches “in the metal,” you will be able to scan magazines to see an even broader variety of watches.

SURF THE INTERNET. Visiting brick-and-mortar retailers allows you to try on watches, but

ASK AN EXPERT. As you see numerous watches, and begin to focus on the ones that appeal to your eye, you will do well to seek out expert opinions. Once you have narrowed your choices to a particular type of watch, experts will be able to steer you in the right direction on matters such as the value of a specific brand, the suitability of a watch for a particular occasion or the reliability of a specific movement. They may also suggest some watches that you have not yet discovered in your own research.

WHY HAVEN’T WE DISCUSSED PRICES? If you have read this far, you may be wondering why we haven’t asked the prospective watch owner about his budget? Is it worthwhile for the buyer with a $500 budget to be looking at the same watches as the buyer with a $5,000 budget? The answer is a resounding “yes”, and that is one of the amazing things about good watches. Regardless of your budget, you will be able to work through our 10 questions, and select the watch of your dreams. Of course, a bigger budget will allow you more choices of brands and better quality finish and components, but regardless of what you are spending, with some work, you will be able to select your “perfect” watch.

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COLOR KEY By Roberta Naas

GREEN with Envy

Summer is here, and with it comes one of the year’s hottest colors: green. From clothing to bathing suits, watches and accessories, green is the hue that brightens summer get-togethers, vacations and general style. It’s easy to incorporate this trend-setting statement into a wardrobe in a budget-friendly manner that keeps you looking chic with a little extra green still in your wallet. Android - Frontline 9015 (AD659) - MSRP $450 - 48mm case - Stainless steel bracelet - Miyota 9015, 24 jewels - Water resistant 200 meters

Bold, grass green Izod watch reflects the color of the brand’s summer readyto-wear hues. The contrast of green markers on black dial is refreshing. $95.

From 1884 Collection, these Ottaviano coin-accented earrings are set with drops of chalcedony. The buyer gets a wish and a coin tossed in the Trevi Fountain courtesy of the brand. $1,800. GREEN

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Don a cute little K Vintage Wallet from Folli Follie and be all in the know. $85.

From Folli Follie, this bold Tempera Watch features a rubber strap and is set with green crystals to emulate nature’s beauty. $170.

Moss green offers a soothing tone to the summer’s hues in this B Fendi watch by Fendi. $795.

Friendship bracelet in Navajo Green and silver by Links of London. $200.

This Links of London Hope Double Ring features green Aventurine set in sterling silver. $375.

The Digitona by Pepito is all about neon green and loving it. The chronograph features a rubber strap. $125.

Called the Velvety from Toy Watches,, this green dialed piece is soft to the touch, yet water resistant to 5 atm. $225.

This Versace Vanity watch offers the perfect combination of summer green with added depth and texture on the dial and bezel and Versace logo medallions on the strap. $1,095.

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DISPLAY PLAY

ifies the nonpl em ex ly ct rfe pe NE O E TH 01 g, Playful and darin isplay Play” category “D r ou ng pi ee ek tim of y la sp di l traditiona the “case” de tsi ou r (o x bo e th de tsi ou ng ki is all about. Thin ention and almost nv co es ng le al ch d an br e th e) nc in this insta dares you to wear them.

he 01 concept was founded in Europe by Anton Kraft. Unconventional, daring, and constantly looking for the new and bright, Kraft decided that he needed to fill the void he felt from a lack of creativity within the popular priced wristwatch category. In partnership with a U.S. based team of expert designers, the hardware, software, components, and the vigor, all came together to bring his vision to fruition with the launch of the 01THEONE brand in 1998. Thinkers and tinkerers of the 01 concept considered the tried and true methods of reading the time were in fact limiting creative possibilities. Ideas that let go of pre-conceived design dogma allowed an enlightened view of what might be feasible within the realm of playful revelation, once the constraints of the pre-ordained had been released. A quick perusal through the collection gives the impression that the guys who are designing these watches are having way too much fun at their job. “How can a product whose life mission is to revolutionize and

rattle the mundane, incorporate something as ancient and traditional as the standard watch display circle?” offers Kraft. He continues “owners of 01THEONE watches grow attached to the way it compliments their spunky swagger. At first, the passerby double-takes and stares make owners uncomfortable, but inevitably wearers of these watches thrive on the attention.” Kraft sums up the ethos of 01 THE ONE: “Remember, It’s not about knowing the latest trends, it’s about setting them. It’s not about being a part of a social circle, it’s about breaking through circles. It’s not about fitting into the mold, it’s about laughing at the existence of a mold.” Priced so the vast majority of trend setters can enjoy them, 01 THEONE watches range from just under $100 up to $499 for a limited art edition with the majority of the collection falling in the $100-$200 price range.

THE SLIDER

www.01theone.com

The Slider case houses two movements side by side, one analog, the other binary. A sliding cover reveals either display at your discretion. Change you time zone—or even your mood— and the Slider abides.

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AN05

The AN05 line features two independent quartz movements. This provides functionality of keeping two time zone displays on your watch. It has a genuine Italian leather strap with a soft leather lining, its case is made of solid stainless steel, and the cover is mineral crystal. The case is water resistant up to 3 ATM. Those who relish utility, but have an appreciation for a minimalist design, will find that this watch fits their purpose.

NEW GR SERIES

All of the Gamma Rays feature a unique and patented time display design. The watch face contains two rings of LED lights, one inside the other. To read the time simply press the button on the side of the case, and after a quick flurry of whirling lights, the LED’s settle themselves into position that relay the time in the same way as would an hour and minute hand on an analog watch. Four dots in the middle will light for to-the-minute accuracy.

DIGITAL DG OR

The Digital DG OR presents the time digitally with an electro-luminescent display for easy nighttime reading and has multi-functions including the date, a second time zone, count down, stop watch, and alarm functions—a great lightweight choice for the fitness freak in your life.

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SHAPE UP

LINEA A

he venerated house of Baume & Mercier is one of the oldest watch brands in existence and is known in watch circles as a creator of fine mechanical timepieces that typically offer a lot of watch for the money. That said, you’ll need to find their mechanical men’s line in our sister publication WristWatch as the retail prices do exceed AboutTime’s $2,400 limit. On the other hand, most of the ladies watches feature quartz movements, some of which dip below the AboutTime threshold. That’s not to say that the Linea collection is in any way skimping on the quality. Materials, fit, finish and design are indeed superb across the board. Domed sapphire crystals, perfectly integrated bracelets and straps, and even small details like the riveted dial markers may not jump out at you, but these assets equate to a watch that will retain its elegant façade for decades. Minimalist design in Linea adapts itself with the help of the golden ratio and can be seen either as a quiescent accent on the wrist, or with the addition a bold color straps, twotone case, or even diamonds can convert to an ornate attention getter. Changing the look and feel of the Linea series is made easy with a quick change strap device and a wide variety of choices. Morphing from a basic black to a woven lambskin in fashionable colors, or even the “double tour” gives the possibility to take your single watch and transform it from a casually elegant watch to a summer fun look, or even to an all-out dress watch with a couture look ready for a night on the town. With prices starting at just under $2,000 for the steel on strap and an all steel bracelet at $2,400, the Linea is a great way to step up into a watch with a timeless design backed by a Swiss-Made lineage and construction.

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SHOW OFF

SUMMER

With summer here it’s time to show off your style. These great wristwatches offer the right touch of bling and color to deftly move from day to evening. From watches studded with crystals, to a little high-tech yet glamorous ceramic and a bold burst of bright hues – time is your friend this summer. – Roberta Naas

Alluring ladies Slimline watches from Frédérique Constant offer slim appeal, textured dial with diamond markers, a diamond-set bezel and a supple bracelet. Stainless Steel, $2,025; PVD Gold, $2,395.

Called Noemia, this 24mm Raymond Weil quartz Swiss watch is crafted in steel and set with diamonds on the case and mother-of-pearl dial. $1,895

This White Square Diamond Ceramic watch from Fendi looks fabulous against a tan. $2,095.

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This Citizen Eco-Drive Signature Marne watch is hand-set with 48 diamonds and features an etched dial. It houses the Eco-Drive movement. $1,695.

88 Rue du Rhone’s ladies offering is a chic new vision in white. A diamond bezel surrounds an subtly etched dial that reflects light almost as well as the 11 diamond markers. The steel case is sized perfectly for the feminine wrist at 37 mm diameter by a svelte 7 mm thickness. Retail price $2,100.

Bold and brilliant, this purple strapped Ferragamo Idillio watch is crafted in steel and features a mother-of-pearl marquetry dial that resembles scales. $1,995.

Seiko’s Solar watch is crafted in stinless steel with a gold finish and mother-of-pearl dial with 10 diamond markers. The bezel features 20 diamonds. $495.

From Swarovski, Swarovski this Piazza Mini 30mm watch is crafted in steel with a white dial and clear Crystal mesh strap. The Swan logo at 12:00 adds a touch of class. $540.

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SHOW OFF

ACCESSORIES

From the Effervescence collection by Links of London this Star Inter-Circles item is a tactile silver jewelry loop necklace. $1,150.

Swarovski Power Multico handbag embellished with glittering Crystal Rock – with a removable chain handle. $900.

Cute 14-karat gold filled floral ring offers whimsical summer appeal from The Zipora Collection of handmade jewelry. $129.

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L U X U RY F L A S H L I G H T S

OWN A PERSONAL LIGHT SOURCE

Orbita’s Lighthouse ™ Luxury LED Flashlight, powered by a high energy rechargeable lithium-ion battery, delivers an unprecedented level of intense white light. A built-in microprocessor provides six user selectable lighting modes. Maximum light output is 350 lumens.

To view the entire Orbita Flashlight Collection FIDDLEBACK

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4/4/13 11:34 AM

SLINGSHOX

CUSTOM COWLS ARE CRAZY COOL

f you like the functional toughness of the famous Casio G-shock but want to kick the style up a notch and scare the “norms”—the radical look of the SlingShox might be for you. Custom designed to fit a variety of the Casio G Shock and Baby G watches, hundreds of different SlingShox designs make it possible to express your own sense of style for a quick $25 ($40 for the ghostly glow in the dark versions) upgrade. Solid colors and bold patterns, street art and custom logos have all found a new medium in the soft silicone material of the SlingShox. What’s even better is that each version is designed to work perfectly with the multi-function timekeeper it surrounds. Not merely a cover-up, each is created to allow all buttons and functions to work per-

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VALUE: WE CREATED THIS INTERCHANGE SYSTEM AS A WAY FOR OUR CONSUMERS TO CHANGE OUT THEIR WATCH COLOR IN A COST EFFECTIVE WAY AboutTime Magazine | FASHION 49

SLINGSHOX fectly when paired with the matching SlingShox. As a side benefit, the added layer of hypo allergenic silicone that surrounds the watch head will also add another layer of protection to the already tough-as-nails timekeeper within. Supplied with a small tool for the quick changeover, the SlingShox watch cover is easy enough for anyone to use. A slide show showing describing the simple change can be seen at: www.theslingshox.com/instructions Although not affiliated with Casio, SlingShox custom cowls are specifically designed for use with the incredibly popular Casio G-shock brand watches. If you already own a G-Shock the SlingShox is a great way to give it a new look, if not, go buy an authentic G-Shock of your choice and make it your own with an aftermarket look by SlingShox. www.theslingshox.com

ABOUT: AN INTERCHANGEABLE SILICONE WATCHBAND ACCESSORY THAT WORKS WITH GSHOCK WATCHES.

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JCK REVIEW

Vegas Discoveries

AboutTime searches for new trends and treasures at Mandalay Bay

ach June a wide variety of watch brands make an appearance at the JCK show looking to entice buyers from all over North America with their latest timekeeping lineups. Although a fair amount of high-end brands participate in the various suites and pavilions, my hard target for AboutTime coverage was the main floor watch pavilion. Most of the brands here fall within the boundaries of AboutTime’s purview and dozens of them vie for your attention as you walk by booths that range from the most perfunctory cube with a glass case up front—to all out multi-floor custom constructions. Regardless of the impressive—or not so impressive nature of the displays, there are always new discoveries made at the JCK show, and just because a brand

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does not have a “Shangri-la” type booth, it doesn’t necessarily mean the watches aren’t worth your time. Although thousands of people attend JCK each year, the unfortunate fact is that you need to be a member of the industry—or with the press —to gain access to the incredible array of watches and jewelry within. Since JCK is closed to the general public, AboutTime will act as your concierge and conduit to highlight a selection of brands that were on display this year. It’s just not possible to cover them all in one issue, so our team has picked a few favorites that represent a cross-section of types and price points. No doubt you’ll recognize some of the brands—but I’m willing to bet there’s a few surprises here as well.

MICHELE www.michele.com

You were probably stranded on a remote island for the last five years if the Michele brand is new to you. A huge hit since its introduction, the affordable elegance imbued in the original rectangular design was coveted by women all over the country. Michele continues to expand the successful collection with new shapes and variations that the ladies clearly love. Although Michele does offer an entry level watch at just under $200 (in the Jelly Bean collection), the majority of the diamond encrusted watches will retail for at least $1,495. Some few will even exceed AbutTime’s $2,400 limit if you want diamonds everywhere on the case and braclet. The new CSX collection caught our eye and has entry level watches from $495.

BRERA www.breraorologi.com

Named after the historical district of Milan Italy, Brera proposes eight series of watches for both men and women. Within each line variations play with color and contrast – and even add black or white diamonds on certain models for a touch of splendor. Sporty across the board with diver specific models, the majority of the Brera line ranges in price from $550-$895 with the diamond versions breaking the $1,000 mark at $1,495 and $2,295. An allblue Eterno Chronograph makes for a great all-season sports look.

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JCK REVIEW

MULCO www.mulco.com

Re-launched in 2006 Mulco watches may be familiar to Caribbean vacationers. Taking an initial strategy to court the impulse buy of the leisure lifestyle, Mulco has a huge variety of easy-to-acquire watches in almost any rendition you can imagine. Prices range from $265 to $560, and our pick of the line is of course the most expensive—the Deep Square in white and blue.

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JCK REVIEW RAPP www.the-rapp.com

See-through acrylic on the Pink Naples and a “clous de Paris” or hob-nailed bezel on the Shustring collection represent the two main elements of the brand. Color is the key on the Pink Naples series and the Shustring is available in either a chronograph or a jumping hour execution. With the entire line priced from $275-$450 the Pink Naples model # RP 2004 in mauve is a stand out color and works well with the transparent acrylic case.

OFFICINE DEL TEMPO www.officina.us

Now into its second decade, Officine Del Tempo continues to cultivate an Italian flair in a mostly sporty, occasionally dressy lineup of watches housing either Swiss or Japanese movements within 316L stainless steel cases. Well-balanced dials that range from sober to aggressive are often emphasized by narrow gauge bezels making the watch appear larger than the actual diameters which range from 36.5 mm for the ladies Vanity line up to the 49 mm Super Power. With other models sizing out at 42,43,45,and 46 mm, if size matters, ODT probably has a good fit for you. Prices range from around $500 to just over $1,000. The Power and Racing (Swiss) series are standouts in the collection.

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JCK REVIEW

TAVANNES www.tavanneswatches.com

Accessible classicism abounds within the Tavannes collection. Whether a sport, pilot, diver or a dress watch, the Tavannes brand promotes a timeless feel of traditional watch design within the collection. Both ladies and men’s versions are offered and variations in the men’s line come to life in quartz—or very attractively priced mechanical options. Unlike so many modern watches, the Tavannes line is offered in more moderated sizes from 37 mm to 45 mm for the men’s lines—depending on the series. They also offer 14-karat gold options for the collector looking to upgrade from steel or plated watches who doesn’t want to make the big leap in cost to an 18-karat gold case.

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LEARN MORE

www.jorggray.com

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JCK REVIEW TOY WATCH www.toy-watch.com

Fashion and fun best describe Toy Watch. Whether the solid creamy colors in the ‘Velvety” line or the high fashion of the “Metallic stones” line, Toy Watches are fun. The split personality of the Mr. Hyde has a splash of hidden color on the inside of the strap and even more traditional looks always add a splash of color, “bling” or tactile sensation to the formula. Check out the black version in the “Metallic Stones” collection for a rainbow array of Swarovski crystals set against a jet-black background for $395. The entire collection ranges from $160 to $470.

VICTORY www.victorywatch.com

One of the new discoveries at the JCK show was the Victory brand. Bold designs in a variety of shapes and colors at remarkably aggressive prices are the hallmarks of this new line. So far every watch by Victory integrates either a Swiss or Japanese quartz chronograph movement inside stainless steel or Tungsten Carbide case—with or without Ion Plate finishing. Mineral crystals cover remarkably detailed dials for a watch that retails from $249 to $379. Water resistance ranges from 3 atm to 10 atm depending on the model. One watch in-particular that got my attention was the V-Aviator. It’s hard to beat a Tungsten case with ceramic accents for only $279.

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JCK REVIEW

WEWOOD www.wewood.us

Part of the appeal of the new WeWood watch is the obviously rough hewn nature of the finished watch. Evoking a feel that each watch was hand carved the natural colors of the various woods make for an organic look. According to the brand, no toxic or artificial materials are used (with the obvious exception of the quartz movement) and they have partnered with “American Forests” and “Trees for the Future” to plant a tree for every WeWood watch sold. Light as a feather on both your wrist and your wallet ($120-$140), WeWood lets the inner tree-hugger in you come out as a tree hugs your wrist back. Although not pictured here, the contrast of the WeWood date black/beige version really accentuates the different colors of natural woods.

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SAVE THE DATE

MARCH 27 – APRIL 3, 2014

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05.04.13 18:29

A Timely Perpsective.com The most authoritative insight into watches.

Original photos, hands-on watch reviews, behind-the-scenes profiles, celebrity interviews, watch education, news and more – in the forefront on a daily basis. Founded and Written by author and veteran, award-winning watch journalist, Roberta Naas. Visit www.atimelyperspective.com

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COMIC RELIEF

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