A Guide to Argentario & The Tuscan Maremma

Argentario | Tuscany

Isola Rossa www.isolarossavillas.com

Table of Contents Getting There Flight Transfers Car Rentals Directions

Argentario Beach Golf & Spa Il Pelicano Boat Rentals Giglio Orbetello Mushroom Foraging

Inland Tuscany Agriturismo Magliano Capalbio Siena Saturnia

Argen

ntario

Beac

Argen Monte Argentario

Apart from having a wonderful turquoise sea and b line in the Mediterranean, is also home to many bea into what makes it such an exceptional holiday dest size, shape and type which further illustrates that th

On the wild and unspoilt west coast of Monte Arge due to the slightly harder access. For this reason bea are relatively uncrowded even in the height of summ cessed by boat! They are also quite diverse ranging to the very pretty part sand and part stone beach of nearby Isola Rossa. Finally there are bays where the from flat rocks into the sea – Cala Piccola is an exam

La Feniglia

Perhaps the most well known due to its size and san km long and 1½ km wide that connects Monte Arg the peninsula and is also a Natural Reserve. This is you may be staying bur furthermore is rendered ver and the calm warm sea. There is also a road that run pedestrians or cyclists – in fact bicycles can be rente son. La Feniglia can found about 1 km outside Port

La Gianella

La Giannella is located in the north connecting Mo is perhaps the more crowded of the two with a serie a personal favourite Il Tramonto. The sand is fine an children and families. Along the Giannella, you can wind surfing, sea kayaking and kite surfing.

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ntario

being one of the most unspoilt scenic parts of coastautiful beaches which is once again a deciding factor tination. The beaches vary a great deal in terms of here really is something for everybody.

entario, the beaches are much smaller and secluded aches and small coves residing on the western side mer– indeed some of these beaches can only be acfrom the beautiful sandy crescent of L’Acqua Dolce, f Le Cannelle, with its romantic lookout tower and ere is virtually no beach at all and you dive directly mple of this type of beach.

nd. The Feniglia beach is an enormous sand dune 6-8 gentario to the mainland at Ansedonia in the south of in easy reach no matter which part of the peninsula ry accessible to all beach goers due to its fine sand ns down the middle of the dune, which is purely for ed at the beginning of the beach throughout the seato Ercole.

onte Argentario to the mainland. La Giannella beach es of ‘bagni’ dashed along the beach, most notably nd the water shallow and warm making it ideal for n find a whole host of water sports on offer including

Golf &

Argenta Golf

For any keen golfers out there or if you’re looking fo gentario Golf & Spa. The stunning 18 hole eco-frien throughout the year and is located just beyond Port out the season. They also offer many opportunities from olive picking to wine tasting.

Spa

The Spa similarly offers guests the chance to comple unique setting. With a list of incredible treatments, looking to detox or just simply have an indulgent tr rant, then this is the place, book yourself in soon, th

& Spa /

ario Golf

or a holistic break, then look no further than The Arndly Golf course, is the home to many tournaments to Ercole, making it a favourite of golfers throughto savour the produce from the surrounding region

etely relax, unwind and be pampered within this swimming pool and Nutritionist on hand, if you are reatment before having lunch at the fantastic restauhey are taking bookings for Spring.

Restau

Il Pel Il Pelicano

Address: Via Giuseppe Garibaldi, 20, 58051 Maglia Telephone: +39 0564 592196 Web: https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Re dra-Magliano_in_Toscana_Province_of_Grosseto_

Not in need of any introduction here, is scintillating

If you were to combine the essence of La Dolce Vita Cap D’Antibes, then Il Pellicano would be born. Op soon after acquired by the Sciò family, this spring-t effortlessly elegant and simple despite its notoriety w kind of place. It hasn’t lost any of the glamour of its modern day screen sirens and Roman high society,

Yet even with such a glittering guest list, it is not ina home here rather than in a hotel . Il Pellicano is ch gether refreshing and welcoming. The decors are sim avant-garde German lensman Juergen Teller scatter almost like a well kept secret behind the Pelican log atmosphere and stunning panoramic views that ma

The Hotel offers an exclusive small selection of suite main building. From spectacular sea views over the to sophisticated interiors, Hotel Il Pellicano is a ver

Even if you perhaps might not be staying in the Ho terraced bar or a meal at the candlelit Michelin star

On a side note there is also a spa located in the mai ments, and you do not have to be a guest to book yo

urants /

licano

ano in Toscana GR, Italy

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g Hotel il Pellicano.

a with the Riviera lifestyle, think the Eden Roc of pened in the 1960s by the Graham family and then to-autumn luxury iconic Hotel has always remained worldwide, it remains an almost word-of-mouth s 60s hay day, still remaining the preferred spot of , the timeless glamour still prevails.

accessible or indeed chi chi, you feel incredibly at hic in a décontracté, old-school way, which is altomple yet elegant with terracotta floors, and photos by red around. There is a certain mystique to the place, go. Yet for me, it’s the simple sophistication, laid-back ake this a real coastal pearl.

es and rooms located in separate villas or within the e archipelago, to the calming Tuscan gardens through ry special, bewitching place.

otel, a magnificently crafted cocktail in the sea facing r restaurant definitely lives up to the hype.

in building which offers a full range of holistic treatourself in for an hour or so.

Boat R

Cala Gale

There are few more fitting ways of exploring and tak boat. There are in fact seven beautiful islands that m all be explored by boat. They are, in order of size, E and Gorgona.

Cala Galera Marina

In fact a must, when planning a trip to Argentario, charming Ports of Santo Stefano and Porto Ercole r the more accessible. There is also the modern and c S.Stefano and Porto Ercole which is a favourite amo

Indeed Cala Galera, once a fascinating natural cove and many handsome shops. Already used by the Ro alike, this port can harbour up to an impressive 700 over point for private cruises to Sardinia, Corsica an

Porto Ercole celebrates with grand festivities and gr on June 2, which includes an evening procession wi and patronage of the Palio di Sienna.

Also another date to get in the diary for Sailing afic the 25th Argentario sailing week.

The Regatta, takes place in the second half of June d stunning yachts belonging to Classic, Vintage, Spiri pation of a variety of competitors from all over the

The yachts are moored along the beautiful yet unas larella�, where crews can be found enjoying the Tusc restaurants, bars and boutiques straight on the dock day race in some of the best sailing conditions in th worth keeping an eye out, purely for the atmospher

Rentals /

era Marina

king in the rugged, handsome coastline, than by make up the stunning Tuscan archipelago which can Elba, Giglio, Capraia, Montecristo, Pianosa, Giannutri

is a day at sea. One has the privilege of having the right on ones doorstep, making a trip out to sea, all chic marina called the Cala Galera located between ongst most.

e, is now filled with luxurious sailing and motorboats omans for their voyages to Sardinia or boat owners 0 boats. It is also notably an important and safe stopnd the islands of the Tuscan archipelago.

reat local participation the feast of the patron saint ith illuminated boats and could easily rival the pride

cionados is 14th - 18th June 2017, which will mark

due to stronger winds and showcases a plethora of it of Tradition and Metric classes, seeing the particiworld.

ssuming harbour of Porto S. Stefano, called “La Pican charm of the village and the many amazing ks. The Regatta comprises of a three challenging he Mediterranean. Whether a keen sailor or not, it is re it creates.

Isla

Gig

Giglio Island, just a hop, skip and a jump (16 kilom from Monte Argentario, is a rugged pint-sized gran misfortune of being in a desirable position, it has an pillaging by pirates and changing hands of owners families like the Piccolomini from Siena, who sold t de’ Medici I. Today it’s a sleepy island for most of th seeking the smooth sand and turquoise waters.

Giglio is also known for its white wine, Ansonaco, Th visit to Altura winery, with its breathtaking historic right into the sea. Almost 20 years ago, this abando Francesco Carfagna. It’s here where they make their

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glio

metres or 10 miles and a breezy 1 hour ferry ride) nt island surrounded by crystalline water. With the n ancient and turbulent history, suffering centuries of - from the Pisans to the Meopolitans, then to noble the island to Eleonora di Toledo, the wife of Cosimo he year, until summer time, when beachgoers arrive,

The first time I tasted it was during an unforgettable c terraces of rambling vines that seem to just drop oned, historic vineyard was rescued and restored by r Ansonaco in the most natural ways.

Bottarga D

Orbe

Approaching Orbetello from Monte Argentario, the the lagoon, a little reminiscent of Venice. it’s a uniqu

The lagoon characterises and defines the city, and it sanded beaches of Feniglia and Gianella, which con historical centre of Orbetello is finger-shaped and ju ed almost completely by water. Being in Orbetello, y

Bottarga comes from the an Arabic word, botarikh, duced to the lagoon town by the Spanish, who ruled today by the fisherman’s cooperative of Orbetello. T tember, grey mulleys are carrying eggs, the fish are of the lagoon, then worked entire by hand - egg sac cleaned, then placed under salt for brief curing, afte

Bottarga di Orbetello is different from that of Sardin er in texture, so you can slice it and eat it with just a ni. The longer you keep it, the darker and drier it ge

Di Orbetello /

etello

e southern Tuscan town seems to rise straight out of que sight in Tuscany.

ts created by two sand bars, the beautiful, long, soft nnect Monte Argentario to the Tuscan mainland. The uts out into the lagoon so that the town is surroundyou live and breath.

, for cured fish eggs, a technique of preserving introd Orbetello more than 500 years ago. Its is still made Traditionally, during the months of August and Sepcaught during their natural migration at the mouth cs are removed carefully so as not to break them, er which the egg sacs are rinsed and dried.

nia and other places. It’s stronger in flavour and softa squeeze of lemon and a splash of olive oil on crostiets until you need to grate it.

Mushroom

Monte A

By August, mushroom gatherers have already got a woods looking for late-summer fungi, which will th on top of crostini.

Monte Argentario is full of rich , serene and unique wild boars love it, but the mushrooms do too - in th right amount of rain follows the summer. Once an a sandy, pine-covered dunes of Feniglia and Giannell cluding corbezzolo (irish strawberry trees) and eric cious and aromatic than those found on the mainla

Good mushrooms should smell wonderful: earthy, sometimes like flour, uncooked bread dough, butter resident in the area where you are foraging, you nee cover arms, and legs, gloves and a basket (not a plas to fall through the cracks in the basket, to help the c Mushrooms found in the region:Caesar’s Mushrooms Chanterelle /mushrooms Monk’s head Parasol Mushroom Porcini Weeping Bolete

m Foraging /

Argentario

plan to and are a fungi in the chestnut and oak hen be used in soup, tossed in pappardelle or layered

e Mediterranean forest and scrub. Not only do the he right season, they’re prolific, especially when the ancient island, now joined to the mainland by the la, Argentario has a unique mixture of plant life, inca (heather) which make the mushrooms more deliand.

nutty, but more specifically like almonds or amaretti, r, aniseed or even honey. In Tuscany if you are not a ed to obtain a permit. You will also need clothes that stic bag - the spores of the mushroom should be able continuity of mushrooms growing in the area).

Inland T

Tuscany

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Agritu

Castello di Romitorio

If you are looking to savour some of the finest wine works of art, produced by the esteemed contempor spending a day in the enchanting fortress of Monta and surrounding estate boasts 11 hectares of bount Chia has since lovingly restored the estate to its form masterpieces as well as hosting some of the most am winery has been producing wine for the past 20 yea receiving many accolades worldwide. Most recently meter cantina located within the castle. An ode bot fine art which can be found there, the marriage of t ting which is truly unique not to mention enriching produced is meant to embody the owner’s dedicatio torio’s wines include: Brunello di Montalcino, Brun Rosso di Montalcino, Ghiaccio Forte, Morellino di Costanza.

Antica Fattoria, La Parrina

Tenuta la Parrina is one of the oldest historic fa can Maremma in a spectacular landscape with This Agriturismo is beautifully kept and not o and 4 apartments, but also a chance to visit the ing cooking lessons or indeed savouring the lo There is little you can’t do here, even if it’s just the warmth and hospitality that can be felt at t that many flock here throughout the year.

Wines of Southern Maremma

Ansonica Costa Dell’Argentario, DOC Bianco Di Pitigliano DOC Capalbio DOC Morello Di Scansano DOC Sovano DOC

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urismo

e whilst being surrounded by the most beautiful rary artist Sandro Chia, then look no further than alcino. The somewhat imposing 12-century fortress tiful vineyard. Acquired by the great artist in 1984, mer glory, which is now a showcase for his many mazing selection of wines, grappa and olive oil. The ars which is nothing short of exceptional, already y Chia has established an impressive 3000 square th to the wine which it produces but of course the the two creates a stunning and most fascinating setg for all the senses. Chia famously says that the wine on and strive to artistic perfection. Castello di Rominello di Montalcino Riserva, Romito del Romitorio, Scansano, Chianti Colli Senesi, and their white wine

arms that lies between the low hills of the Tush olive trees, wine yards and fields of grain. only offers guests a place to stay with 12 rooms e vineyard, dairy and nursery, as well as offerocal produce in their Farm shop or Restaurant. t to come away with a pot of honey, to savour this renowned establishment, hence the reason

Inland T

Magl Da Sandra

Address: Via Giuseppe Garibaldi, 20, 58051 Maglia Telephone: +39 0564 592196 Web: https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Re dra-Magliano_in_Toscana_Province_of_Grosseto_

Da Sandra is something of an institution set in the v a short drive from Santo Stefano, and through the r liano, one will eventually behold the walls of the for lighting, one seems to only get in Italy. Da Sandra is but can’t help but recommend it year after year to fa

The owner is also a lovely man, who after years of fa handshake, the waiters are also charming and warm yet elegant family run establishment. Here Tuscan c menu reflects this, from oven cooked Porcini mush May, you are spoilt for choice here. For this reason companied by a house Morellino, is the way to go if Maialino al forno, suckling pig, is also just incredib

Although more animated in the summer months, M is always a sense of refuge from the hustle and bustl tion that visiting Magliano, always feels like a first t of the cobbled streets, lined with tanned little bamb and their grandparents languidly watching on, on a authentic! I would recommend the passegiata throu the view suddenly opens up to a spectacular backdr mantic but truly stunning!! I will also mention that which offers more wonderful ways to explore the Tu There are, of course, many other restaurants which now it is going to have to be Da Sandra, setting the

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liano

ano in Toscana GR, Italy

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very heart, of the picturesque town of Magliano. Just rolling Tuscan countryside following signs for Magrtress, usually illuminated with that soft almost pink s one of those gems, you would like to keep secret, amily and friends.

aithful clientele, greats us with a big smile and m, which is very much in keeping with this simple, cooking is its best. Everything is in season, and the hrooms out of season to Truffle tagliatelle as early as sampling an Antipasto Misto, amongst friends acf you want to get the full range of Tuscan palette. The ble!

Magliano never feels over crowded or too busy, there le of crowds which is somewhat a relief. Not to mentime, which is unique in itself, you simply cannot tire bini running around animatedly with their footballs a bench in the main piazza, it’s nicely typical and ugh the cobbled streets to the end of the town where rop of the Tuscan countryside, which is not only rot there are plenty of wine Bottega’s and even a gallery Tuscan culture.

I will mention in future posts in Magliano, but for bar a little too high.

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Capa Il Frantoio Address: Via Renato Fucini 10 , Capalbio 58011 Telephone: +39 0564 896484 Web: http://www.frantoiocapalbio.com/

Right in the very heart of the picturesque, mediaeva something of a cultural hub, overlooking the main transformed and been lovingly restored into an upm Mary’s in town not to mention the most delicious T sourced produce. The bar is a nod to a downtown N tails and aperitivi; this is certainly a punto di ritrovo keeping with the rustic charm of the Maremma cou the balmy summer months, where you can dine am for out of season dining. The eclectic mix of cocktai above the restaurant, make Il Frantoio quite the unm al events that take place throughout the year, under responsible for the bookshop. Even if just to buy so simply to soak in the vibrant atmosphere, Il Frantoi Capalbio.

I Giardino Dei Tarocchi by Niki de

Address: LocalitĂ Garavicchio, 58011 Pescia Fioren Telephone: +39 0564 895122 Web: http://ilgiardinodeitarocchi.it/en/

Something of a Bohemian Rhapsody, De Saint Phal whimsical glory, a stone throw from the mediaeval such as Gaudi or Pollock, I Giardino dei Tarocchi, w which she privately funded and opened in 1998. Th countryside, is made up of 22 elaborate houses, eac Each house is comprised of a kitchen, a living room

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albio

al town of Capalbio lies the infamous Frantoio, Piazetta. What was once the town’s olive mill has market Trattoria, serving up some of the best Bloody Tuscan piatti, using only the freshest of locally New York bar with a great atmosphere, music, cocko for people in the know. The restaurant is more in untryside with tables set out in the courtyard during mongst the olive trees and indeed many tables inside ils, a romantic little bookshop and deli, sitting just missable destination. There are also many culturr the careful hand of Maria Concetta Monaci, also ome of their amazing Olive Oil, Honey or Wine or io is somewhere to stop by when planning a visit to

e Saint Phalle

ntina, Capalbio GR, Italy

lle’s Giardino dei Tarocchi can be found in all its town of Capalbio. With a nod to the likes of greats was somewhat a labour of love for De Saint Phalle, The sculpture garden set in the heart of the Tuscan ch based on a card taken from a deck of Tarot cards. m and a meditation space. “Life is a game of cards

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Capa

The Sagra is a proud celebrating of local food, traditi ciation over a short period, a weekend or two, and it neighbour effort. Food is the main theme, be it a loc mushrooms, chestnuts) or a special dish (polenta, zu there’s live music or other entertainment, too.

Sagra di Cingarle

Il Cinghiale is the symbol of Maremma. It’s a strong ants who share this place and its rugged, thick forest tional pastime, wild boar is also one of the most priz well know for wild boar - just take a look at any of th imaginable. And in summer, there’s the saga del cing animal. If you can possibly find out the provenance o you are working with a more mature animal, you ma wild boars are tough as old boots, so steer clear.

Capalbio has a Sagra di Cingarle, held in September is over fifty years old. Wild boar is the main feature a (‘liver killers’ - charmingly named spicy, wild boar an with wild boar stew, and aquacotta.

Cinghiale in Dolce-Forte

A truly age-old maremma dish, this is one of Tuscan sweet and sour stew and there is not mistaking that i changed.

This recipe. begins with a very simple stew, where th hours. Right before serving, the ‘dolce forte’ is added of sultans, pine nuts, candied fruit peel, sugar, vinega serve this with something starchy: mash potatoes, so mop up the sauce.

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albio

ions and community. It’s often run by a local assot’s a whole family (from nonna to grandchild) and cal ingredient (cherried, bonito, wild boar, porcini uppadi funghi, tortilli maremmani). Quite often

courageous and resilient animal, like the inhabitt-covered hills. As hunting and foraging are a tradized items on the menu. Towns such as Capalbio are he restaurant menus and you’ll find it in every form ghiale, a fifty-year-old food festival dedicated to the of the meat, choose a younger animal. If you know ay need a little more cooking time. Very mature

every year. It’s one of the best known around and and you’ll find specialities such as ammazzafegati nd liver sausages), wild boar all cacciatore, polenta

ny’s most famous. One bit of this luscious, dark, it was plucked out of the Renaissance, mostly un-

he wild boar simmers, softening, for a couple of d to the pot, completely transforming it: a mixture ar and the darkest chocolate you can find. You can oft polenta or a nice crusty load of Tuscan bread to

Inland T

Sie The Palio

The Palio horse race in Siena, which takes place twi most colourful and historic events in Italy, dating b

The bareback race attracts a huge crowd to the mag and consists of over an hour of colourful pageantry which is over relatively quickly. The race is between contrade having its own racing colours. Only 10 ou restrictions.

If you ever attend the Palio you’ll never forget the e are bathed with soft golden light from hundreds of thers and Tortoises flock by on their way to dinner of 50-foot-long tables in its largest square, and loca platters of meat and vegetables. Approximately 25,0 and yet so far away from each other.

On the day of the race, the church bell in the Mang the Archbishop of Siena. Later the horses will be ble the jockey to wear the colours of his contrade, but i races, the horse can even win without a jockey. The silk banner.

Tuscany /

ena

ice a year on July 2nd and August 16th, is one of the back to 1281.

gnificent Piazza del Campo in the centre of the city y and costumed processions as well as the race itself, n 10 of the city’s “contrade” or districts with each ut of 17 contrade participate in the race due to space

excitement of the night before the race. The streets torches and lanterns. Groups of noisy Geese, Panfor thousands: each contrada lays out rows and rows al restaurateurs serve up huge bowls of pasta, gigantic 000 Sienese will eat in the streets that night - so close

gio Tower sounds at 8am, as jockeys attend Mass with essed in their contrade too. It is a great honour for it is the horse that is the real star – unlike other horse e prize for the winner is ‘il Palio’, a secretly created

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Satu Hot Spring

This pretty, ancient Etruscan town, most famous for Saturn, the Roman for of time. It is said that he crea bolt to earth. Another story claims it was Jupiter thr

Following the winding roads towards Saturnia, if yo able to spot the stream rising from the warm water, cool, very early autumn or winter morning is the be the place all to yourself, except for maybe a deer in explode out of the side of an ancient mill gushed in opal. Set against the backdrop of the lush rolling hil pounding of the gushing water, there’s really nothin

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urnia

or its nearby natural hot springs, was named from ated the sulphurous spring by hurling a lightning rowing a bolt of lightening at Saturn - and missing.

ou look carefully and it’s cool enough you may be , which flows at body temperature of the spring. A est time to come down to the water, when you have the nearby olive groves. The water, which seems to nto small, opaque, azure pools the colour of Peruvian lls of the Maremman countryside, with the heavy ng quite like the experience.

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