Exploring Gulf Gate ... with Jane Bartnett

Here’sa summer travel tip, of sorts: Thanks to Gulf Gate’s eclectic business district, international destinations continue to be found in our own back yard. So, drop in at Divan, the new Turkish restaurant on Superior Avenue, and discover the wonders of Turkish cuisine. Spending a few hours in this intimate dining spot is almost like taking a trip to Istanbul.

Ugur Sariyar is the owner and the restaurant’s chef. “We make everything fresh and from scratch,” he told me on a recent visit. “The hummus, the baba ganoush, the shakshuka -- a traditional Mediterranean dish created from eggplant, tomato sauce, green peppers, onion and garlic -- and much more,” he said.

As we sat in a comfortable booth with a colorful mural of the city of Istanbul behind us, a steady flow of diners filed in for a late lunch. After opening in March, the restaurant has gained a strong following.

Colorful Turkish stained-glass chandeliers hang from the ceiling and create a warm glow. “My parents brought the lights from Turkey,” Sariyar said with pride. “Come and meet them,” he added as he brought me into the busy kitchen.

The pair smiled and said hello as they went to work preparing classic Turkish dishes. As we continued our conversation, I learned more about this exotic land and its cuisine.

“I want this to be a comfortable place where people enjoy visiting,” said the young restaurateur. Khalida Sariyar,

Ugur’s wife, told me the definition of the word “divan” is couch or sofa. Her husband named the restaurant Divan, she said, to imply a welcoming and inviting place. Having never experienced Turkish cuisine, I did a bit of research before my visit. Culinary experts agree that Turkish food is at the heart of Mediterranean cuisine. The dishes of this place where Europe, the Middle East and Asia meet tell a fascinating story of a people and a rich agricultural history. The food, Sariyar explained, reflects the bounty of a country where spices, fresh vegetables and natural oils are a part of everyday dishes.

“We make our own seasonings from zaatar, a curry-like mix of seasonings, rosemary, as well as oregano and thyme,” he said. “Everything here is fresh. Olive oil is used in everything. It’s the Mediterranean influence.”

When I told him that he was talking to someone who never cooks, he laughed and said “OK, everything is my own interpretation. It’s Mediterranean, but more Americanized.”

Sariyar’s own interpretation of classic Turkish and Mediterranean dishes reflects his training as a chef. After studying the culinary arts at Istanbul Arel University, he went on to hone his craft at Istanbul restaurants. “I also spent time in Bolu,” he said. “That is a place that is famous for its chefs.”

After settling in the New York City area, in 2017 Sariyar opened a popular and successful Turkish restaurant called Pasha Mezzo Grill in the northern New Jersey suburb of Parsippany.

“We made it through COVID with a lot of take-out,” he said.

In 2021, he made the decision to close the restaurant and on a visit to Sarasota he discovered our island. “I was drawn to Siesta Key,” he said.

When restaurant space became available in Gulf Gate, he decided that the Siesta Key region would be a good place to open a new restaurant. “I also met my wife here,” he said.

The couple married a few weeks after Divan’s opening and Khalida now works with her husband in the restaurant.

“Yes,” he said happily, “it’s been a lot of things happening at once, but it’s all good.”

Before my visit with the chef, I had lunch at Divan with friends. We enjoyed a selection of “mezze” (appetizer) dishes that included a sampling plate of tzatziki (grape leaves stuffed with rice), humus, baba

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$1,700,000

Sunset captain

philanthropist. “That land,” Reid said, “is now Myakka State Park.”

As an adult, Reid has taken his place back on the water, following in the footsteps of family members who came before him. Few can say that they know the secrets of the islands and the waterways that surround Siesta Key better than Reid. “About five years ago, I took my first U.S. Coast Guard license test to get my captain’s license. It’s a challenging test,” he recalled.

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No stranger to challenges, Reid spent his early adult years in the U.S. Army. After returning to Sarasota, he went into the construction and masonry business but the water kept calling him back. For Reid, spending each day watching the sun set over Siesta Key is about as close to paradise as it can get. Creating truly memorable experiences for Siesta Key visitors has become his new life mission. “True southern hospitality has been lost in this area,” he said thoughtfully. “We’re trying to bring back that flair.”

A knowledgeable tour guide as well as a skilled captain, Reid offers details on the homes along the shoreline, tidbits about how dolphins teach their newborn babies to breathe, the life of manatees, and details on the many bird species that call this area home.

As he brought the vessel into an area filled with mangroves, he announced that we had arrived in the “Siesta Key Bayou,” an area behind Skiers’ Island, heading toward the North Bridge. “That’s not the official name, but that’s what I call it,” he said as the passengers laughed. The pontoon boat’s low draft, Reid explained, allows travel into shallow areas.

As the sky turned into spectacular shades of red and pink and yellow, Reid slowed the boat and everyone took pictures. As darkness fell and the sky darkened, the time had come to return to shore. “This was a good night, y’all,” said the captain.

To book a High Tide Tiki Boat sunset, morning or afternoon tour visit parasailsiesta.com/pontoonboat or call (941) 260-1566.

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