SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • September 2017

R36,00 (incl VAT)

The industry's only trade journal

Jewellery News SEPTEMBER 2017

SA

Jewellex: showcasing Africa’s best Display: your most powerful marketing tool The art of storytelling Swiss watch industry searches for meaning

Go Higher.

Eco-Drive ALTICHRON

PROUDLY DISTRIBUTED BY CJR GIFT SALES

www.cjr.co.za | 011-257-6000 | info@cjr.co.za

It is with great pleasure that we announce that the Trade Test for Goldsmith and Diamond & Gemstone Setting, which has not been offered for over 4 years in Gauteng, will now be offered by Pneuma Jewellers in Kyalami, Midrand.

Pneuma Jewellers is currently a well-recognised Jewellery manufacturing Company in the Gauteng Province, that holds Accreditation as an SDP (Skills Development Provider) with MQA and QCTO as well as Accreditation as a TTC (Trade Test Centre).

Interested parties can follow the process outlined below: 1. Prospective candidates should send an email to Ms Faldilah Volkwyn or Ms Heidi Sheppard on

pneumatradetest@gmail.com to inquire about applying for access to the Trade Test.

2.

They will respond to all enquiries on an individual basis as there are different routes to achieve this.

3.

Faldilah/Heidi will send each applicant the relevant documentations and depending on how quickly you submit the required information, they will then send your application to MQA for a Trade Test Serial number.

4.

On receipt of the Trade Test Serial Number Faldilah or Heidi will inform the candidate of dates available for the Trade Test and on receiving confirmation from candidates on what day they are available to do Trade Test.

You may also contact Heidi or Faldilah on 011 702 1462/1891 for more information.

WE DESIGN AND DELIVER. MANUFACTURERS AND RETAILERS WELCOME! Address: Shop A2, 1st Floor, Crowthorne Centre, Corner of Athur / Main Road, Kyalami, Midrand, Johannesburg, South Africa Tel: 011 702 1462/1891 • Mobile: 084 308 2982 • E-mail: pneumasales@gmail.com Website: www.pneumajewellers.co.za • Facebook: www.facebook.com/Pneuma-Jewellers-CC-New

Customized Business Advisory Solutions (CBAS) Faldilah Volkwyn is a specialist in Skills Development training and funding assistance.

Come to the short seminar at Jewellex for an easy question and answer session to bring answers and solutions to your manufacturing training issues.

Date and time to be confirmed.

Please feel free to email us for any questions about the seminar.

cbasfacilitation@gmail.com

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Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: sajewellerynews@isikhova.co.za Watch Editor: Alice Weil Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182 E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za Advertising Sales: Ian Starnes Cell: 082-052-8428 E-mail: adsales@isikhova.co.za

c ntents 40. INSURANCE 14. NEWS

Advertising Sales: Trivern Goodoon Tel: 072-837-4962 E-mail: sales@isikhova.co.za

• PlatAfrica winners to be announced on 2 November

Advertising Sales Representative (India): Bhupal Potdar Cell: 91-982-115-1035 Email: bhupalpotdar@gmail.com

Showcasing your gems and jewels without exposing your business

• Gemfields names post-takeover CEO • Rare tourmalines win top AGTA award • De Beers broadens Lussier’s branding role

Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong): Maud Errera E-mail: maud@lni.com.hk

• WFDB announces support for International Diamond Monitoring Committee initiative

Designer: Joanne Brook Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677 E-mail: subscriptions@isikhova.co.za

43. BRAND HISTORY Inspired by a tank

Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution

46. STORE MANAGEMENT

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC, PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010, Johannesburg, South Africa.

27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa.

Ethics in the workplace

51. SWISS WATCHMAKING The Swiss watch industry searches for meaning

Website: www.isikhova.co.za Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer E-mail: andrewm@isikhova.co.za Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za Printing: Typo

Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9

24. EXHIBITIONS Display: your most powerful marketing tool

29. JEWELLEX AFRICA Showcasing Africa’s best

55. BRAND MANAGEMENT

32. INDUSTRY TRAINING

• A watch for the traveller

The art of storytelling

• Updating an old stand-by • New technology enables new displays

35. RETAIL CORNER

• A mark of quality

The worth of a good word Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa.

Website: www.jewellery.org.za The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2017. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

12

37. WATCHES

60. LITTLE GEMS

Defining Haute Horlogerie

An ostentatious ring

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The industry's only trade journal

Jewellery News SEPTEMBER 2017

SA

Jewellex: showcasing Africa’s best Display: your most powerful marketing tool The art of storytelling Swiss watch industry searches for meaning

On the cover The State Diamond Trader (SDT) is a state-owned entity established in 2007 in terms of Section 14 of the Diamonds Amendment Act (Act 56 of 1986) as amended, reporting to the Department of Mineral Resources (DMR). The entity’s core mandate is to purchase and sell rough diamonds in an effort to promote equitable access to and beneficiation of diamond resources, as well as to grow South Africa’s local diamond beneficiation industry. For more information, contact the SDT on tel: (011) 334-2691 or visit: www.statediamondtrader.gov.za.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2017

NEWS

RARE TOURMALINES WIN TOP AGTA AWARD A pair of extremely rare neon blue tourmalines took top prize at the 2017 American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) Spectrum Awards.

Mikola Kukharuk of New York-based gem house Nomad’s won the Best of Show award for the pieces, which weighed 53,56ct in total.

The design competition, which many see as the Oscars of the jewellery and gem world, took place in New York.

The Best Use of Colour award went to Naomi Sarna of Naomi Sarna Designs for a pair

of maple leaf earrings in 18ct and 24ct yellow and 18ct white gold, featuring multi-coloured diamonds, sapphires and garnets.

Sarna also won in the Best Use of Pearls category for a necklace of freshwater cultured pearls and sunstone beads, with white, pink and green diamonds set in its 18ct yellow gold and black rhodium clasp.

In the Bridal division, the winner was Ricardo Basta of E Eichberg for his 18ct white gold and rhodium Double the Love ring, featuring two

heart-shaped stones – a 12,62ct blue zircon and a 0,75ct diamond – with diamond pavé.

The accolade for Best Use of Platinum and Colour went to Eddie Sakamoto of Somewhere in the Rainbow, for his platinum Dancing Waves neck collar featuring a 57ct aquamarine accented with 8ct of diamonds. The piece also took first place in the Eveningwear category.

AGTA CEO Douglas Hucker noted an increase in the number of entries this year and praised the calibre of the contestants. – Rapaport

DE BEERS BROADENS LUSSIER’S BRANDING ROLE De Beers’ top marketing boss has taken on an expanded role now that the miner has acquired its namesake retail chain.

Stephen Lussier, Executive Vice-President of Marketing, now oversees De Beers’ entire downstream and branding operations, a spokesperson for the group told Rapaport News recently. As part of that role, he has overall responsibility for De Beers Diamond Jewellers (DBDJ), with its CEO, François Delage, reporting to him.

In March, De Beers bought the 50% of DBDJ it did not already own from former joint-venture partner LVMH, which had operated the stores.

Lussier’s remit also includes retail brand Forevermark, of which he was already CEO, and the International Institute of Diamond Grading & Research, De Beers’ grading laboratory.

Lussier, who has been at De Beers since 1985, will oversee the way the various downstream operations work together strategically.

The miner has also appointed three people

to its Executive Committee. Ann Cormack of Rolls-Royce will join the rough producer as Executive Head of Human Resources, succeeding Arthur Hewett in October. David Prager, De Beers’ Head of Corporate Affairs, has moved up to Executive Vice-President of that department and Nancy Liu, currently Head of Asia Pacific at Forevermark, will take on the role of Chief Operating Officer for the brand, while retaining responsibility for China and Hong Kong. – Rapaport

E-MAIL AND TEXT: A GREATER SOURCE OF CONFLICT THAN WE REALISE

By Mervyn Malamed

Conflict can develop even when both sides share a common goal and are not in opposition to each other.

The intrinsic subject may indeed not be the cause of a rift. By virtue of its convenience and accessibility, this tool has nudged other forms of communication to the side-line. It’s quick, it’s easy and the repercussions can be disastrous: electronic mail.

“Embolism-mail” obstructs the natural flow of discourse between people, stifling communication.

In a neutral situation an e-mail or text is sent and received without incident. Yet, with underlying tension between the parties, it will be exacerbated.

Shielded by our screens we operate under a false sense of security. We cannot see or hear our opponent’s wrath, so we are invincible.

That is until receiving a reply. So the destructive exchange is played out from one mail to the next. Whereas with face-to-face interaction, it’s easy to see the problem you are causing The word “okay,” expressed over e-mail may be perceived as hostile and curt. In person, the word “okay” could be the icebreaker that is needed for conciliation. A smile, a nod of the head or a change in tone will unblock the communication arteries quicker than a dozen e-mails.

Optimal goals are attained by face-to-face communication as first prize, Skype/video conferencing as second, telephone as third, and e-mail or text, last.

Communication stripped of eye contact, body language, tone and gestures is prone to miscommunication.

When using e-mail respect one cardinal rule: Do not send a hostile e-mail until the following day – chances are you may not send the e-mail at all then. You may just pick up your phone and say, “I know we are both on tight schedules, but we really should meet and sort this out.”

NEWS

WFDB TO SUPPORT INTERNATIONAL DIAMOND MONITORING COMMITTEE INITIATIVE nounced the establishment of the International Diamond Monitoring Committee, which aims to eliminate undisclosed mixing of laboratorygrown diamonds in packages of natural diamonds, as well as other objectives.

“All the major diamond industry bodies, including the WFDB and the Diamond Producers’ Association, took part in exhaustive discussions on the subject,” explained Blom. “I’m delighted that we reached a number of decisions regarding the new panel’s aims. It will have comprehensive objectives, including

the monitoring of trends and instances of nondisclosure of synthetics, threats to the polished diamond sector and agreement on the most effective detection devices for trade members.

“We stress that we have no objection to trading in synthetic stones, provided they’re fully disclosed so that consumer confidence in our product isn’t damaged in any way,” Blom added.

The International Diamond Monitoring Committee members will hold their next meeting at the September edition of the Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair.

PLATAFRICA JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARD WINNERS TO BE ANNOUNCED 2 NOVEMBER

fect pairing of timeless platinum with on-trend design – curated elements, pared down and simplified; each one considered, courageous

tition will be announced.

“Bold Minimalism” has been selected as theme for the 18th annual PlatAfrica competition, which is open to student, apprentice and professional jewellers in SA. The 2017 theme aims at achieving the per-

and meaningful… a simple expression of love.

It looks to minimalism as a reaction to excess with designs that stand out in a sea of clutter.

The target market for the 2017 competition is Indian millennials – a bold, experimental generation looking for a fresh, modern take on tradition.

The World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) is throwing its weight behind the recently announced International Diamond Monitoring Committee initiative of India’s Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) and the Bharat Diamond Bourse (BDB). WFDB President Ernie Blom, who took part in the meeting of international representatives which formulated the idea during the recent India International Jewellery Show in Mumbai, said he was fully supportive of the initiative.

Following the meeting of industry bodies, GJEPC Chairman Praveenshankar Pandya an-

Anglo American Platinum, in collaboration with Metal Concentrators and Platinum Guild International, will host the 2017 PlatAfrica Jewellery Design Awards gala dinner on 2 November at Johannesburg’s Kyalami Business Park, where the winners of this year’s compe-

NEWS

JOB CREATION AND ENTERPRISE DEVELOPMENT THROUGH JOBSHOP TRAINING FACILITY Vukani-Ubuntu’s flagship project, the Jobshop, is South Africa’s first free artisan training centre. It was conceived as a project to help alleviate the shortage of critical and scarce artisanal skills in South Africa while accommodating the placement of trained and upskilled work-seekers. The R16 000 000 project has received funding from the IDC, EU and AECI respectively, which has helped establish significant milestones, allowing the facility to operate successfully.

The Jobshop is located in Mpumalanga and directly benefits the unemployed commu-

nity of eMalahleni (Witbank) by offering grassroots community members the opportunity to acquire the knowledge and skills they need to successfully find work in the mining, engineering and manufacturing industries. “These students fall under our target group of Historically Disadvantaged Individuals, who are defined as South African citizens who, due to the apartheid policy that was in place, had no voting rights and/or who were woman, and/or who had a disability,” explains Demos Takoulas, CEO of Vukani-Ubuntu.

This unique facility allows for a multiple of educational and empowerment resources through the channels of Recognition of Prior Learning Certificates, Skills Development and Training, Job Placement and a Business Incubator for SMMEs. “To date, our current statistics indicate that the Jobshop can place about 40% of sectorspecific job-seekers directly into available jobs – provided they are assessed, graded and linked directly with job-providers,” says Takoulas.

“Hence our training programme is streamlined to provide job-placement assistance to about 600 job-seekers over a specific time-frame.”

In 2017 alone, the Jobshop has taken in

101 students for the Skills Development and Training programmes and of these students, 38 have been placed to date. “Of the total number of students walking through our doors for all educational streams, 163 were females,” says Takoulas. “A great statistic for a primarily male-dominated industry.”

Of the Jobshop’s leading programmes, the Recognition of Prior Learning assessment facility has proven to be the most fruitful, with 651 students receiving RPL certificates this year alone. The facility has been flagged as South Africa’s biggest RPL centre and is free to all members of the public. It works by allowing artisans who are familiar with areas of electrical, continued on page 18

NEWS

welding, boiler-making and HVAC (heating, ventilation and air-conditioning) to sign up at the Jobshop Training Centre and undergo the RPL assessment and training process. Once they have done this, these students will receive a certificate of completion, which notes their previous training acquired and competencies and skills in the various sector streams.

Further to the RPL system, the Jobshop of-

fers Skills Development Courses. These courses, accredited by merSETA, run for a three-month period and cover welding, hoisting and rigging, electrical, boiler-making and HVAC. From a single idea in 1998 to a national network of grassroots development projects across the country in 2009, Vukani-Ubuntu Community Development Projects represents a victory of the co-operative spirit that welled

up from the desire to improve life for previously disadvantaged communities.

Vukani-Ubuntu, an award-winning nonprofit organisation, boasts 13 successful community development projects over five provinces in South Africa, and has trained over 2 000 people in the jewellery and mining sectors – all thanks to the R120 million in funding received through international and local donors.

GEMFIELDS NAMES POST-TAKEOVER CEO Gemfields’ new owner, Pallinghurst Resources, has appointed Sean Gilbertson as CEO of the coloured gemstone producer, following the resignation of the miner’s senior executives.

Gilbertson, an Executive Director of Pallinghurst, is a long-standing member of Gemfields’ board and was closely involved in the acquisition and redevelopment of the gemstone company’s Kagem emerald mine in Zambia.

Former Gemfields CEO Ian Harebottle and Chief Financial Officer Janet Boyce resigned following the takeover, as did the company’s Non-Executive Directors. The acquisition by the private equity group resulted in Gemfields being delisted on 28 July and becoming a sub-

sidiary of Pallinghurst.

Pallinghurst Chairman Brian Gilbertson has taken on the Gemfields Chairmanship, and David Lovett, a long-standing member of Gemfields’ finance team, has been appointed CFO. Adrian Banks, Gemfields’ Product Director in charge of grading, sorting and auctioning emeralds and rubies, has joined the company’s board. CV Suresh, who ran the Kagem mine from 2007-2015, has also become a board member, taking on responsibility for Gemfields’ Zambian assets.

Meanwhile, geologist Kartikeya Parikshya has joined the miner’s board and will be responsible for its Ethiopian and Mozambican

operations, including the Montepuez ruby mine in the latter country.

Pallinghurst will carry out a thorough review of Gemfields’ operations. It says the miner’s debt was at “record levels”, largely due to a drop in emerald production from Kagem and a resulting decline in auction revenues from the mine. The new owner intends to report the findings to the board by mid-September and will talk to shareholders shortly afterward.

“The new board, dominated by Gemfields veterans covering all the key disciplines, reflects our desire to focus on enhancing the operations, processes and core activities of the Gemfields group,” says Gilbertson. – Rapaport

MARKETS

Business barometer A monthly survey conducted by SAJN among industry players (small and large) on a national basis.

RETAILERS Foot traffic

50 % DOWN 5.5%

0 %

50

75 %

10% UP

DOWN 7.5%

25 %

Watch sales

34.5%

9.5% UP

30% UP

50 %

25 %

DOWN 52%

% SAME

bridal

0

% SAME

General sales compared with last year this time

25

% SAME

MANUFACTURERS

fine jewellery

16.6

33.3 %

DOWN 25%

% SAME

0 %

50 %

General sales compared with last year this time

Best-selling diamond size

Consumption of silver compared with last year this time

0

% SAME

0,5ct

50 % DOWN 30.5%

83.3

21%

DOWN 48%

Consumption of platinum compared with last year this time

DOWN 10%

watches

71.5%

50 %

0 % 50

DIAMOND DEALERS WHOLESALERS

0% UP

% SAME

50 % Consumption of gold compared with last year this time

JULY 2017 VS JULY 2016

100 %

General sales DOWN compared with 38.5% last year this time

% SAME

16.6 %

0 %

(Above): The above illustrates year-on-year statistics for the jewellery industry reflecting armed robberies, burglaries, armed night robberies and smash-and-grab incidents.

– All information supplied by the Consumer Goods Council

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2017

EXHIBITIONS

Display: your most powerful marketing tool Window and counter displays are an integral marketing tool to communicate a brand’s image, as well as distinguish it from its competitors. There are a lot of factors to consider when deciding on the appropriate display for a brand.

FROM 8-10 OCTOBER, THE SANDTON Convention Centre will be home to the biggest jewellery and watch exhibition in Africa. Jewellex Africa is an exclusive annual event that offers local and international business opportunities.

It is the ideal juncture to showcase products, know-how, create potential partnerships, attract customers, learn more about the market, view the latest trends and, of course, increase turnover. More than 1 500 visitors are expected every year, which might leave an exhibitor wondering how to provoke interest in and attention to their stand in the midst of so many other exhibitors. Product display plays a major role – it creates a special buying experience and enables exhibitors to turn the new opportunities offered by business fairs into a concluded deal over a longer term.

SA Jewellery News spoke to Jennifer Ray

24

of Crayve Presentations, a guru in display and packaging, about the importance of product display and how to improve the buying experience retailers and exhibitors offer their clientele.

Why is it important for companies to consider display as an integral part of their marketing strategy?

Today retailing is all about branding – and branding is all about storytelling. To entice customers into your retail space, your display needs to tell a story. The challenge is to represent that brand story in the physical context of a store, which includes the way product is merchandised.

Window and counter displays are an integral marketing tool to communicate your brand’s image, as well as distinguish you from competitors. Positive or negative displays can build an impression of your brand on consumers, giving them

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2017

EXHIBITIONS

have visually appealing window displays that promote their brands and immediately engage the viewer, then people are unlikely to enter the store. The key elements of window and counter display are: • Visual merchandising of jewellery and watches.

• Display elements to best show different pieces.

• Use of heights, levels and proportions for visual appeal.

• Effective product pricing and labelling at the window.

• Effective lighting to showcase pieces.

• Use of seasonal or topical props and décor to easily and affordably refresh windows and cabinets.

a perception of the quality of your products.

The present state of the economy means fewer feet through doors and less spending by customers. However, retailers are still paying for premium retail space and, indeed, with more and more shopping centres being developed, the competition within the luxury brands market is fierce.

Increasingly, consumers turn to the Internet to make their purchasing decisions, leaving many retailers and wholesalers wondering how to keep customers coming through the door. The answer lies in creating unique in-store experiences that can’t be replicated online, and with jewellery and watches being such personal, tactile purchases, a positive inhouse experience is vital.

Ramped-up security for a retail jeweller can be a barrier to entry, but is an essential in today’s retail environment, with jewellers and luxury brands remaining an easy target.

I believe that the “buying battle” begins at the retail window. If the retail jeweller doesn’t

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2017

What are the most common mistakes made by watch and jewellery companies in terms of display?

All too often, retailers fail to create a space that feels premium enough. To design a premium retail space, the space needs to feel exclusive to justify the higher prices of luxury goods. How is this sense of luxury achieved? Here are some suggestions: • Clean, well-designed windows, cabinetry and shop layout are essential.

• Less is more when it comes to merchandis ing and stock display. Windows and coun ters that are over-merchandised, and over styled, overwhelm the browser into not making a buying decision. The jewellery or watches remain the stars of the show, so too much clutter obscures them and dulls their impact.

• It’s important to reflect the unique persona lity of your brand in your displays.

• A display with muted colours and patterns will highlight and accentuate the value of the jewellery and watches being shown. A good principle to use is three colours only in your display.

• One-dimensional windows are visually bor ing and don’t draw buyers in. Vary the height of your displays by using blocks, plat forms, columns and tables, to create visual interest and encourage eye movement.

• Choose a few “star attractions” to draw buyers in. Create a narrative around these key pieces. Create a mini-storyboard with a few décor elements – perhaps an over sized bust for that show-stopping pendant and necklace.

• Static displays with stock that’s never changed is a common mistake. Mix your stock regularly to keep passers-by looking in the window and coming in.

What are the new trends in display in this industry?

What with Instagram, Pinterest and other imagedriven platforms, we’re becoming more “graphically” trained. Display has never been more visual, organic and fun. Here are some ideas I love: • Keep your eye on jewellery trends for the year or season. 2017 has seen a focus on key elements of nature, which are easy to incor porate into your displays. For example, Monstera leaves are on trend this year and can easily add an organic feel to your windows.

• Keep in mind your product when consider ing how to display. Chunky statement neck pieces need to be displayed differently from layered, delicate necklaces or chokers, while stacking rings won’t impress in a single-ring display stand.

• Mixing materials and textures is an easy way to create a “wow!” factor. Marble, wood and metal are all on trend this year.

• Velvet has made a huge comeback and pair ing this luscious material with metallic ac cents is a great and opulent look.

• Interactive windows with touch-screen monitors, or motion sensor technology, help create engagement and even instant “selfie moments” for customers to share on social media. Digital signage at the windows is a fantastic additional salesperson, espe cially during hours when your store’s closed.

What advice can you offer to prepare for Jewellex Africa?

25

EXHIBITIONS

Your stand will be your showcase at Jewellex Africa and you’ll be competing against all the other exhibitors there. It’s believed you have three seconds to compel browsers to explore your stand.

Before the show, ask yourself the following questions: • Are you going to sell?

• Do you intend launching a new range or collection?

• Are you attending to network or make new contacts?

• Are you attending to assess the market and competition?

The answers will help you define your goals – and, indeed, your stand – for the show. From there, consider the following for your stand: • Bold, clean signage to convey your company name and brand message.

• Seating areas or chairs. Your stand at Jewellex Africa needs to be creative and welcoming. Treat it as your own retail space for a few days.

• Your set-up, displays and product merchan dising should always reflect your brand per sonality.

• Ensure you have enough room for people to easily navigate your stand.

• Good lighting is essential for all jewellery and watch displays. Avoid having loud music or noise, which can be offputting to customers.

• Pare down your products for the show and only display “show-stoppers” beautifully and creatively.

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Retailers and exhibitors must never forget to remain true to their brand and its positioning. Everything is about being visible in the midst of visitors and exhibitors. Your display is a good way to mark your territory so that the stand is easily identifiable. Here are a few additional elements that can be a plus to highlight your stand: The kakemonos (signalling tools providing information and attracting the attention of the customer by presenting your company) have become indispensable.

They allow you to display a punctual message of your brand at the entrance of your stand and thus create a universe corresponding to your company without losing its marketing identity. A kakemono is large enough to be seen from up to 30 m away, depending on its size. Also, it requires very little creative work upstream. You just have to use bright colours, attractive graphics which are different from what your competitors offer and typography that highlights the essential elements of your text. This reusable communication medium takes up little room on the stand, but is very effective. It can also be bifacial, which is very useful in a trade show where there are many aisles.

Some exhibitors are probably organising micro-events on their stands to attract visitors.

Again, the display is the key to communicating about it. In addition to going through the media present at the event like Jewellex Today, you can use posters, flyers or even distributed goodies. These help optimise the visibility of the offer, launch new products and make promotional show specials or offers. The message of a micro-event should be hyper-focused.

For more impactful and interactive signage, totems and screens are innovative, ergonomic and often interactive solutions. The video totem is part of the new generation of communication and display tools. There is a wide range of video totems available in large or small sizes, with variable screen sizes and sometimes with a dynamic digital touch-screen.

It is also possible to add practical features to your digital totem, such as a brochureholder, an ideal accessory at trade shows for presenting your catalogues to show visitors.

The video totem makes it possible to dynamise your message and even multi-messages, since it can broadcast a lot of content. It conveys the image of your brand to your customers and prospects as a modern and vibrant organisation. The audience’s reactions are even stronger if the screen is tactile. It has the advantage of accurately and clearly disseminating your message and bridging relational gaps between you and your prospects. Once they have the initial information, they gain more confidence and begin asking questions. The relationship between them and the representative then becomes more relaxed and natural. This is also a good way to retain a visitor when all salespeople are busy. In terms of investment, however, video totems can be somewhat expensive.

Jewellex Africa is the ideal place to introduce your fascinating masterpieces to the world. But magic always comes at a price, which in this case is good preparation and great displays.

Now that you have the wand, it’s up to you to enchant visitors and turn them into customers.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2017

JEWELLEX AFRICA

Jewellex: showcasing Africa’s best The countdown to Jewellex Africa 2017 has begun. To be hosted at Johannesburg’s Sandton Convention Centre from 8-10 October, Jewellex attracts exhibitors and buyers from within SA, African states and international countries. It offers an environment for B2B linkages that results in significant business growth and the integration of new industry participants.

THE JEWELLERY COUNCIL OF SA (JCSA) HAS been hosting Jewellex Africa for the past 40 years. It is a forum for and by the local industry, offering the buyer a wide variety in terms of watches, clocks, fine jewellery, pearls and precious stones, jewellery packaging, machinery, accessories and services.

“The Jewellex Organising Committee has been working incredibly hard to create an environment to build relationships and generate business,” says Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the JCSA. In order to create excitement and attract more buyers to this year’s event, Jewellex will be giving away a cash prize of R100 000 to a business-owner (who must be a member of the JCSA) in a business card draw which will take place on the last day of the event.

This cash prize must be utilised for the purchase of merchandise from traders who exhibited at the show.

Jewellex has also offered its manufacturing jewellery members an opportunity to promote their jewellery in show cases at the entrance to Jewellex. The idea is to promote local content and uplift local manufacturers.

“All Jewellex exhibitors have also been re-

quested to offer at least one show special that will be valid only for the duration of the event,” says Lloyd. These show specials will be publicised on the Jewellex website (www.jewellex.co.za), as well as on the Jewellex Africa Facebook page.

“And we’re extremely pleased to advise that the Chevron Jewellers Group has coincided its annual meeting with Jewellex and will show its support at the show and hopefully do its Christmas buying,” continues Lloyd.

During the course of Jewellex, valuable and informative talks will be held in an informal environment in the coffee shop. “Norman van Rooyen from Jewellery Security Services has confirmed that he will be addressing crime issues on all three days,” says Lloyd. Topics to be discussed are “Expect the Unexpected. Are You Ready for the Next Hit?”, “Crime Reduction Standard Operation Procedures – Addressing Desire, Motivation and Opportunity of Staff Members” and “Increasing Physical Security Barriers in Your Store – Increasing Fear Elements for Criminals Without Intimidating Customers Entering Your Stores”. Family Life Centre will also be providing two of it's counsellors to address retailers on

trauma counselling after crime-related incidents But Jewellex is not all work. Cape Precious Metals will be sponsoring the cocktail function at this year’s show, which will held on Monday, 9 October at 18:00 for 18:30 at the Convention Centre. The dress code is smart-casual. “The Jewellex cocktail function is a great platform for members of the industry to get to know each other better and network in an informal environment,” says Lloyd.

Jewellex’s vision is to become the premier trade fair for the continent’s jewellery industry. To achieve this vision, all local manufacturers, wholesalers and suppliers in the industry should use Jewellex as a platform to sell their products to the local market and internationally. Exhibitors from African states should use Jewellex as an opportunity to reach the international market. Furthermore, international exhibitors should use Jewellex as a secure trade platform for product distribution into Africa.

For further information on the show, please contact the JCSA on tel: (011) 484-5528, e-mail: jewellex@jewellery.org.za or visit the website: www.jewellex.co.za.

The Chevron Jewellers Group has coincided its annual meeting with Jewellex and will show its support at the show and hopefully do its Christmas buying.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2017

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INDUSTRY TRAINING

IN MY PREVIOUS ARTICLE (SA JEWELLERY News, January 2017), I outlined four main reasons training initiatives commonly do not produce the desired return on investment.

These were: 1. A lack of executive involvement.

2. The misconception that training is a once off “event”.

3. A lack of accountability structures.

4. Training which is irrelevant to the current consumer.

It is relatively easy to rectify the first three issues, but the fourth can be something of a challenge.

Our market has changed dramatically over the past two decades – we serve an educated market, with consumers who have more information at their fingertips than ever before. The sole purpose of a sales consultant is no longer that of a product knowledge expert who is able to “jargonise” the customer into complete confusion. More often than not, our customers know way more about our products than we do and no-one appreciates being patronised by a sales consultant trying to flaunt their technical expertise at the expense of fulfilling the customer’s needs.

Is product knowledge training still relevant at all, since it is all online? Certainly, everything a customer could possibly want to know about a product is available online, as is the product itself – and often at a lesser price.

However, statistics show that the Millennial Generation (those born after 1982) still prefer to purchase from bricks-and-mortar stores, rather than making a purchase online. Statistics also reveal that 76% of Millennial consumers will browse online prior to making a purchase and if they have done both online and offline research, then 67% of them still purchase from the traditional retailer. What could these consumers be after and what does that have to do with how you train your staff?

Traditional sales training taught consultants a series of “steps”. These were to be followed to the T, or the entire sale would disintegrate.

Why? Sadly, we have never taught our consultants the art of connecting with people and in

The art of story-telling Anna-Mart Rossouw, owner and founder of Paramount Consulting, the official training partner to the Jewellery Council of SA, explains why story-telling is a key element when trying to make a sale. our highly impersonal technological age where everything is instant and small talk has become the new deep, people inherently crave human connection. This is why most consumers still brave the traffic and the associated frustrations, take time out of their busy schedules and grace your store with their presence. People have a need to engage in consumption at pivotal points in their lives. In no other industry can sales consultants have such a magical opportunity to touch the souls of their customers in such a meaningful way. Every single customer who walks through our doors has a “pivotal point” in their lives to commemorate. It is our duty, responsibility and privilege to give them what they came for – a human experience. Any change in approach will require an exceptional training programme to bring your vision to life.

Throughout history, stories have been used

to shape the world. In certain cultures, children would spend copious amounts of time at the feet of their elders learning about all the wonders of their heritage, stories of enchantment, magic and sometimes, superstition. These tales are what keep those cultures alive.

Every single girl has heard a story that started with: “Once upon a time, in a land far, far away, there lived a beautiful princess.” Such stories transport children to worlds beyond their imagination, magical wonderlands where all their dreams could come true. They shape the character of our children to believe in a

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INDUSTRY TRAINING

world where magic still exists and instils in them the hope of living a fulfilled life.

The first well-documented use of a diamond ring to signify engagement was by the Archduke Maximilian of Austria in the imperial court of Vienna in 1477, upon his betrothal to Mary of Burgundy. This “story” then influenced the higher social classes and those with significant wealth to give diamond rings to their loved ones.

Another, rather romantic belief that was passed on through the art of story-telling was that there is a vein which runs from the ring finger on the left hand straight to the heart – the Vena amoris. This is a Latin name meaning, literally, “vein of love”. The theory of the Vena amoris, however, is factually inaccurate, as all the fingers in the hand have a similar vein structure. Nevertheless, this “story” has been told for centuries in Western cultures as the reason an engagement ring should be worn on the fourth finger of the left hand.

Probably the most successful use of a story that shaped the jewellery industry was the one told in the De Beers marketing campaign in the 20th century. After the Great Depression, sales of diamond rings declined rapidly. In an effort to revive them, De Beers launched a marketing campaign in 1938 to educate

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2017

the public on the 4 “C's" of a diamond to do we connect with this part of the brain? reinforce the value and rarity of these stones.

Do we use facts and product knowledge to The group began using the slogan, “A diamond do so? Absolutely not. The key to unlocking is forever”, in 1947. This led to the belief that the emotions of a client is to give them a only a diamond was an acceptable stone human experience by connecting with them to be used in an engagement ring, as it through the magic of story-telling. We are very signified eternal love. Later, the group took this fortunate that there are so many lovely stories one step further. In an effort to increase the already written about gems and traditions. One average selling price of engagement rings, it of my favourite ones is that “aquamarines were suggested that a man spend found in the treasure chests one month’s salary on an of mermaids; from there engagement ring. This was later comes their colour”. For a amended to the equivalent of start, teach your staff to tell two months’ salary. your customers some generic How does this relate to stories relating to jewellery training and the way your products and traditions as consultants interact with their a whole. Later, as your staff clients? Well, Aristotle said become masters in the art of that there were three crucial story-telling, make the tales parts to the art of persuasion, a little more personal and ie selling. These were trust, link them to different iconic emotion and logic. If we pieces in your store. We sell take a step back, forget for a a dream, a hope, validation second that we are retailers and affirmation and we just and focus on being human happen to use jewellery to beings first and foremost, we do that. Always remind your will recognise that this is true. staff of this responsibility.

We buy people, not products Finally, let us look at logor companies. We buy from ic. It certainly has a role to people we trust and respect, play in the decision-making who make sense to us and process, but this should be connect with us. a subsequent, rather than Trust is established during a dominant one. Research the probing process, when indicates that a client will we are trying to find out more make an emotional decision about our customer and what to purchase an item and then their needs are so that we use their logic from their can fulfil them. If someone neocortex to justify that defeels that you know them and cision. In other words, once (Above): Anna-Mart Rossouw, owner understand their needs, then they have fallen in love with and founder of Paramount Consulting. they are much more inclined the item because of the story to trust you. Gaining a customer’s trust should that made the dream come to life, they need be your first port of call. to be able to persuade themselves that this esWhat comes next is the crux of sales success sentially emotional decision does in fact make – emotion! Research shows that people make rational sense. Where in the sales process buying decisions from the emotional part of the would we focus on logic? When we address brain – the limbic system. It is this that leads to the benefits of the item. An example would be a client developing a desire to own the object. to say: “This diamond is in a six-claw setting, Naturally, the whole brain is interconnected, which makes it a classic piece and an ideal heirso this is somewhat over-simplified. Still, how loom to pass down to your children one day.”

The feature of the item could logically be connected to how that would benefit the client.

Remember, clients buy benefits, not features and logic only serves you well after emotion has played its role.

So there you have it. The secret to successful training is to teach your staff to use the science of selling and bring it to life with the art of human connection.

33

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RETAIL CORNER

The worth of a good word A monthly column written by industry expert Dr Petré Prins.

SOME YEARS AGO, BEFORE the Great Recession, when the wealthy still had spare cash, a tour guide brought an American tourist to my office. The guide winked and said: “10, please.”

The client wanted big, fought like Trump over the price and paid with a platinum Amex card.

My GP shrunk like a pricked balloon. I offered 50% of my profit to the guide as commission.

Tens of thousands of rand for a mere referral should suffice, I reckoned. Wrong. The guide objected: “You’re stealing my income. I want 10%! Otherwise you’ll never see me again.”

Obviously, I never saw him again. I should have given him nothing. As always, greed and windfall earnings were a powerful drug.

Without a doubt, tour guides deserve a referral commission. More so if they establish trust, do translations and bring clients to the jeweller. This applies specifically to standalone shops that do not depend on pedestrian traffic, as do those in malls. After all, mall retailers pay a turnover commission to landlords for bring-

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2017

ing clients to their doors. So a 10% referral commission to tour guides, operators, etc is in order and accepted worldwide.

During the past few years, newcomers to our industry offered extreme commissions to guides, concierges and others in contact with tourists. Because these operators lack an existing client base, have no goodwill and fail to compete on service, they take the unethical route of extreme kickbacks to get tourists through their doors. Some retailers retaliated by matching the higher commissions, which resulted in an upward-spiralling commission structure.

Fortunately, there are professional guides and established retailers who do not wish to be entrapped by excessive commissions. They know their goodwill weighs more. They would rather not make a sale than compromise their quality and service.

Recently, a few upstarts offered 35% commission on all referrals, plus a free pair of diamond earstuds on sales larger than R10 000.

Unacceptable. Some would say unethical.

Offering an excessive commission increases the already high operating costs of jewellers and prevents them from selling at a competitive or "best value” price.

The days of large margins on diamonds and gold jewellery are forever gone (thanks to the Internet) and offering 35% for a recommendation, which could be more than the margin most jewellers enjoy, borders on criminal. The reality, however, is that many of our overseas visitors rely on a recommendation from their guide, hotel concierge, taxi driver, guesthouse, etc and most of the latter will recommend them to the jeweller who pays the highest commission.

Our international tourists believe that fine jewellery should be cheaper in the “land of gold and diamonds” than at home. Only when they compare Internet prices or ask their jeweller for an opinion on the “bargain” bought in SA do they realise they were overcharged and thus they warn friends: “Never buy a diamond in SA.” The word will spread – as the recent demise in the sale of diamonds to Chinese tourists attests – and fine jewellery purchases by tourists from Europe and the USA will also stagnate.

Those who care about the future of our industry should lobby for the removal of operators who survive only by offering excessive commissions.

According to JSK, more than 40% of sales at upmarket New York jewellery stores are to tourists. The same may apply to jewellery stores in Cape Town, Johannesburg and Durban. Couples on holiday are generally relaxed, have time and the opportunity to shop together, and will buy gold and diamonds if they find a trustworthy source. To be successful in this market, we have to provide a professional service and products comparable in price and quality with those which they can buy at home.

Rogue traders who take advantage of ignorant clients will always be with us. However, if the majority of our manufacturers, wholesalers and retailers conform to best international practices, and provide something unusual, home-brewed, then SA could become known as the place to buy diamonds and gold.

Recommendations by happy clients are worth more to our industry than any advertising.

Such customers will recommend their guide, as well as the jeweller they bought from – to the benefit of everyone in the tourism sector.

Those who care about the future of our industry should lobby for the removal of operators who survive only by offering excessive commissions.

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WATCHES

Defining Haute Horlogerie

WHAT EXACTLY DOES the term “haute horlogerie” mean and what does it imply? There have been many attempts to define this illusive and exclusive concept, and set out its main principles, as it is not an exact science. Yet it needed to be identified as a guide to independent watchmakers and manufacturers. Fine watchmaking has a centuriesold living history and a rich and specific culture of knowledge and know-how – a culture with a professional ethic, experience of the artisan, a burning passion and an age-old tradition.

The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie is among those who have attempted to define the elusive concept of fine watchmaking. It has a Steering Committee of distributors, journalists, experts and collectors, all of whom are acknowledged in their field. It was founded in Switzerland in 2005 by well-known watch companies in order to renew the tradition of high-class mechanical watches. It was also a challenge to manufacturers of complications which constitute high watchmaking.

The term “fine watchmaking” remained vague and the role of the foundation was to provide the necessary definitions, which were founded on objective and factual information, as well as a methodology which the organisation regards as a duty.

Thus the foundation became ingrained as a reality. Established in Geneva, Switzerland, within five years it was an integral part of the industry, with its own Cultural Council aiming to determine the definition of excellence.

Through its actions, it pays tribute to the profession, which must abide by uncompromising laws of the applied arts. The foundation’s Steering Committee has a manifesto setting the parameters which define the best watches and watch brands.

There are legendary watches and high-quality watch brands of the era which have no problem meeting and maintaining these criteria and are coveted by collectors of timepieces. More than a century old, Vacheron Constantin and Girard Perregaux, for example, had no difficulty with this.

The Tank by Cartier, released on the market in 1919, has been decreed by the foundation as the most highly coveted timepiece among collectors.

In second place is the Rolex Oyster, first released in 1926.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2017

The literal translation of the French term “haute horlogerie” is “the high art of watchmaking”. The concept was initially created in the 1970s and early 1980s and initiated as a direct response to the quartz watch revolution, which resulted in high volumes of sales of these new-fangled timekeepers. This threatened the traditional Swiss watch market, particularly in the middle and upper end. Fine watchmaking belongs to the world of luxury in which culture, tradition, creativity and innovation are the cornerstones of the art.

Other brands of the “top 10” include JaegerLeCoultre’s Reverso of 1931, the Portuguese

by IWC (1938), Patek Philippe’s Calatrava (1932), Breitling’s Navitimer of 1952, Omega’s Speedmaster (1957), Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak (1972) and Chopard’s Happy Diamonds (1976).

However, haute horlogerie brands are no longer restricted to the Swiss industry. In fact, rumour has it that the Chinese have broached the possibility of being included in this category. China has overtaken the USA to become the market with the highest demand for luxury watches.

The foundation’s Cultural Council’s conclusions as to the values which constitute haute horlogerie

are compiled in a White Paper. The categories (each of which has its own specifications) are: Historic Maisons, Contemporary Brands, Luxury Brands and Artisan Creators. Ultimately, it is the product which embodies the term “fine watchmaking”.

The areas of expertise which were evaluated include research, development and production, style and design, history and DNA, distribution and after-sales service, brand image and communications. To stay in touch with recent developments in fine watchmaking, this process will be reviewed every two years Watchmaking has never been a static disciple, say the experts, but has always pushed the boundaries of technique, materials and design. A watch collection is incomplete without a model that does this, yet it is made in the spirit of its forebears who did so in the past.

Timepieces of this calibre are indeed an art form which requires innovation, technology and competence in the production cycle, plus the ability to lead the way with avant-garde products that reflect the centuries-old tradition of high horology.

(Above left): Royal Oak by Audemars Piguet 1972 – the first luxury watch to preset a model in steel.

(Left): The Rolex Oyster 1926.

(Below): Omega's Moon watch.

37

INSURANCE

Showcase your gems without ex Natasha Maroun, National Head of Jewellery, Fine Art & Specie at Bryte Insurance Company Ltd, shares a few key trends you should be aware of and advice on how

with millions of rands’ worth of jewellery (by smashing display cabinets and display windows), within mere minutes.

• Controlled access: Businesses should en sure that access to stores is well-controlled and that they make use of security gates, doors and guards (a mantrap, which involves a double-door system that limits access to one person at a time, is especially effective) to keep both staff and merchandise safe.

to boost your business’s crime-proofing efforts.

WHILE EVERY INDUSTRY IN SA IS AFFECTED by several layers of crime, the jewellery industry continues to be among the most targeted. With unemployment rising, so are instances of crime and for businesses operating in this industry, the pervasiveness of robberies is probably their biggest challenge. Understanding crime patterns in the jewellery industry and what your retail business can do to protect staff and merchandise is more important than ever before.

Here are a few key trends you should be aware of and tips for protecting your business: Safety starts at the door Most crimes are professionally organised, with criminals belonging to jewellery theft syndicates that move across the country. These criminals, who are often armed, do not hesitate to use violence. Their modus operandi is to gain access to your store, intimidate staff and customers and make off

40

(Above): Natasha Maroun, National Head of Jewellery, Fine Art & Specie at Bryte Insurance Company Ltd.

•

Alarm systems: A working alarm system, linked to a reputable security response company, is also crucial and, in most cases, a condition of cover. Such systems should include sensors – especially if the area above the ceiling is not slabbed – as there have been instances where criminals pretend to be contractors to gain access to the area between the ceiling and roof, and subsequently the jewellery store.

• Vigilance is valuable: Exercising vigilance is critical and equipping staff with training that helps them easily spot suspicious behaviour can be hugely beneficial. With a minimum of two staff members required to be on duty during trading hours, it is also advisable to have both staff members involved in locking up when closing for the night. While one locks, the other keeps watch.

• Reducing stock levels: Reducing the amount of jewellery on display at any given time and moving as much display jewellery as possible into safes each night is a good deterrent. Another great way of limiting in-store stock is by using technology – such as apps – that enable prospective customers to view different jewellery designs on mobile phones and tablets. A 3D printer can be used to replicate the piece chosen and, using special print, the customer has a very realistic view of the end result.

Keeping merchandise safe in transit With in-transit security measures perceived as less robust than those in-store, the trend of jewellery being stolen during transportation is rising. It is therefore important always to use a reputable courier service that specialises in transporting gems and jewels, has sufficient safeguards in place (including thorough employee checks) and offers adequate protection, should losses occur. Additionally, not sticking to a routine in terms of when you dispatch/receive merchandise can throw criminals off-track. Don’t just choose different days/times – use different bags and entrances too.

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INSURANCE

xposing your business Exhibiting should not leave you exposed Participation in jewellery exhibitions is often an important element of marketing.

However, the value of the precious items under one roof can be very appealing to criminals. It is therefore critical to understand the level of security and type of insurance cover provided by the exhibition organisers so that you can “plug” the safety gaps. You could also reduce the amount of stock required by investing in technologies that enable you to showcase jewellery in a virtual format.

Tech and threats Internet access is simplifying processes for businesses and consumers across the globe, delivering much-needed cost-savings.

More retailers are using online platforms to showcase and sell jewellery and this trend is set to gain further traction over the coming years.

While connectivity is a significant enabler, it is important to note that the prevalence of cyber-crime has escalated, with 8,8 million

South Africans falling prey to activity in 2015 alone, according to the 2017 Internet Security Threat Report by Symantec. By faking payments or hacking systems to re-route deliveries, it is becoming increasingly easy to steal jewellery. Banks already have many authorisation processes in place to provide safety barriers, so ensuring that your business is up to date with online security technology is a must.

Safety in numbers Partnering with organisations such as the Jewellery Council of SA, the DCSA and the CGSA will help your business stay ahead of crime trends and provide you with access to processes and technologies that can help you better manage risk exposures. For example, investing in a reputable CCTV system could assist the police, who – using using sophisticated facial recognition software – may be able to identify criminals and map out crime syndicate patterns.

Low premium = low protection While prevention is always better than cure, it is important to have options in the unfortunate event that a loss does occur. In a strained economy, there is a growing tendency to go for the lowest premium. However, this could be a costly misstep, as the business risks not having the right level of insurance cover, thus threatening its sustainability.

It is important to ensure that your insurance cover is tailored to address your business’s specific needs and risk profile. Some important covers to consider are: • Armed robbery – covers theft of stock during business hours by force and violent means.

• Burglary – for example, for stock left out on display after trading hours.

• Smash-and-grab-specific insurance – covers items stolen from display windows.

• In-transit cover – applicable to theft of jewellery during transportation.

• Contents – includes internal glass.

• Trauma counselling cover – in the event of injury or even death resulting from violence, this cover provides trauma support to those affected.

To ensure you have a comprehensive view of your business’s risk exposure and are adequately covered, seek the advice of a specialist insurer who can be a beneficial partner in helping you protect your business.

In a strained economy, there is a growing tendency to go for the lowest premium. However, this could be a costly misstep, as the business risks not having the right level of insurance cover, thus threatening its sustainability.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2017

41

BRAND HISTORY

Inspired by a tank The Tank watch by Cartier is a universal symbol of style and elegance that has traversed a century and bridged three different eras. It is the most coveted and copied wristwatch of all time.

THE TANK WATCH BY CARTIER IS UNIVERSAL, its shape governed by a golden ratio. It is not quite square, nor quite rectangular, encapsulating the modernity of the century. First created in 1922, four years after the conclusion of World War I, its distinctive design and mechanism span a century. The Tank has always been in advance of its contemporaries – both on trend and ahead of its time – by responding to technical challenges. It is a magical timepiece which marked the beginning of the wristwatch era, its concept and birth dating back 19001919, when it captured the essence of the Art Deco period.

Born shortly after the first appearance of tanks in battlefields, its outline is very significant, reputedly inspired by the top view of a tank from above, while the case represented the cockpit. It culminated in a lengthy design process, a timepiece which swept aside tradition and ushered modern design into the workshops. Now 100 years old, the Tank centres around three cult models: the Tank Louis Cartier, the Tank Americaine and the Tank Française. In more recent times, the Tank Anglaise has been added.

Cartier watchmaking spearheaded by Louis was enjoying a booming trade after the success of the first watch to be worn on the wrist, created for the famous jeweller’s friend, Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos Dumont, a trendsetter and leader of fashion whose choices were embraced by the smart set of Paris. Wearing a watch on the wrist had already become a sensation in the world of watchmaking. The wristwatch – on a strap – would become an essential accessory. Squaring the traditional circle and paring down the design, in which the seamless integration of the lugs and the case as an essential of the strap, were inherent. The Tank watch of 1917 took its place as a reference model in watchmaking. It was a break with the elaborate curves fashionable at the time in its execution of restraint.

The Roman numerals on the dial in the majority of Tank watches, when used in combination with the chemin-de-fer (railway track) chapter ring, lend a heightened graphic impact

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2017

The Tank watch of 1917 took its place as a reference model in watchmaking. to the dial. These details emerge on the dials of all Tank watches. The parallel and vertical bars known as brancards incur on the lugs of the strap. The blending of the lugs and the strap represents a unique, stylish leap forward.

These lines are taut beaded or faceted, the winding crown set with a sapphire cabochon. The proportions of the watch are essentially contemporary.

Launched in 1989 was the Tank Americaine, whose powerful and slightly elongated elegance, as well as its slightly convex form, make it a classic. It is seen as a homage to the very first Tank watch

given to General Pershing, who commanded the American forces in Europe in World War I. It was also the very first Cartier watch with a curved waterresistant case, robust and of generous proportions. The new model embodies the spirit of the original.

Created in 1996 was the Tank Française, which transformed the stylistic features of the original design. It was launched at a lavish dinner in Geneva, attended by glitterati from Europe and America (at which this writer was privileged to be present). Among the guests was John Kennedy Jnr, only son of former American President John Kennedy, who tragically also lost his life a few years after the event, when the plane he was piloting plunged into the ocean during bad weather. The Tank Française was square, the curved case attached to a curved metal bracelet by reconfiguring the design of the side brancards. Its dial had a “railtrack” minute circle and sword-shaped hands.

The newest release in 2017 is a rectangular form of the very first watches. The Tank Cintrée has a curved design which hugs the wrist. It's original was a precursor of the Tank Americaine and had a powerful shape, defined by a pair of brancards that structure the whole. Two versions are available – in pink gold or platinum – which reveal a skeleton movement that follows the curves of the case. Its design preserves the bare essentials of the hands. The chemin-de-fer and the overlapping gears in the background are all contained within the distinctive curves of this watch.

The Tank Louis Cartier symbolises the essential Tank spirit. Its distinctive design spans the century featuring brancards with round, taut lines, softened contours and horns incorporated into the case. Clear-cut lines and a strictly measured composition forge the powerful style and character of this enduring creation. Today this model has two new faces, both powered by a mechanical movement with manual winding: a choice of pink or white gold in a women’s watch with diamondset brancards, or a fine pink gold model in a chic Cartier creation.

Since its first appearance, the Tank has graced the wrists of free-spirited men and women, from political leaders to film stars like Rudolph Valentino, Gary Cooper and Catherine de Neuve, artists like enfant terrible Andy Warhol and fashion icons like Diana, Princess of Wales and designer Yves Saint Laurent.

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STORE MANAGEMENT

Ethics in the workp Ethical behaviour (integrity) is the foundation on which the diamond and gold industry is built. Dr Petré Prins of Prins & Prins Diamonds believes it is the responsibility of business leaders to identify differences in personal ethics between staff and, if necessary, to train towards and motivate a culture of high principles.

AFTER COMPLETING HER GIA DIAMOND course, Esther found her first job at a diamond wholesaler in Johannesburg. Within the first month, she found herself in a pickle. While preparing a parcel of 30 pointers for certification, a stone sprang from her tweezers and rolled under the Cat 4 safe. She tried to retrieve it with a pencil, but managed only to push it deeper – where it became lodged. She believed the safe could not be moved and that she had lost a diamond. Panicking about losing her job, she added one point to the individual weights of 31 stones to make up for the one she had lost. When the diamonds came back from EGL, her boss ascribed the weight differences to faulty scales.

Two months later, another diamond “got stuck”, this time in Esther’s pocket – and, again, the loss was ascribed to incorrect weighing.

Whether you are an owner, a manager or a worker, the trust your clients or fellow work-

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STORE MANAGEMENT

place

ers have in you will determine your success, especially in the diamond and gold industry. This does not mean that other industries require any less a measure of integrity. However, how many other industries will accept a handshake as a binding contract, or entrust their workers with a single item that may be worth far more than their annual pay? Obviously, trust and ethics are vital components of our industry.

Furthermore, the nature of our products is such that during their transfer from one workstation to another, or even between companies, they can disappear without a trace or be swapped for items of lesser value. Workers must therefore accept security systems such as video surveillance, psychometric and polygraph testing, a signed paper trail or verified computer systems as a crucial part of their work environment. This is not necessarily because management mistrusts its workforce, but to ensure that bona fide mistakes such as misplacing, misfiling, incorrect numbering, inaccurate weighing or even malfunctioning machines can be identified and corrected. However, notwithstanding the sophistication of control systems, our industry still has to rely on the integrity of its workers.

The problem arises when the ethical codes of management and staff, or those of various co-workers, differ. When this happens, trust evaporates and neither the employer nor employee can operate effectively. Once trust is broken, a worker may find it difficult to remain employed or be re-employed elsewhere.

Guidelines for managers Ethics are simply the expression of a correct code of conduct. They comprise a set of behavioural guidelines based on moral values that are recognised by most civilised societies and by almost all legal systems.

Ethics are about making choices in your private life and at your place of work – choices that

may not always make you feel good or benefit you, but which are the honourable course to follow: do not hurt, do not steal, do not lie and do unto others as you would wish them to do unto you. These are the rules that keep society functioning and people co-existing in peace.

How do we ensure that one person's moral code harmonises with another’s? The answer is to define what you regard as ethical behaviour and to train yourself and your staff to live and work accordingly. Unfortunately, management cannot force people to make personal ethical choices (ie to do the right thing). It can, however, explain the benefits of ethical be-

haviour and what the business demands as a proper code of conduct.

It is important to realise that a culture of ethical behaviour in the workplace will develop leadership, productivity and moral literacy, all of which form the unshakable basis on which the company exists. Ethics are simply "good for business”.

Management and leaders on the shop floor need to be role models to their fellow workers and make decisions based on ethical principles. When you teach and lead people by personal example, they will do as you do, not as you say.

Unprincipled leaders will quickly create unprincipled employees who will do anything

unscrupulous to succeed. This behaviour eventually opens up the business to legal and regulatory issues which, ultimately, lead to the disappointment and distrust of customers. This will result in a slow-down of sales, poor productivity and the demise of the business. Owners, management and employees will suffer.

Management must realise that the workforce comprises individuals from diverse backgrounds and cultures, with varying aspirations, fears and agendas – especially in SA, where ethnic differences are still a sensitive issue. The diverse value systems prevalent in our workplaces make the development of a uniform work ethic a major challenge. However, without one, a business is doomed to failure.

In the diamond and gold business, reputation is everything. Customers will eventually distrust and avoid an unethical company, but – more importantly – people talk. Word of mouth is powerful and can make or break your business. When someone is happy with a product or service, it is because they believe they received value for money or that the product performed as promised – and they’ll tell, on average, five other people about their experience. However, if they are unhappy or feel

Unprincipled leaders will quickly create unprincipled employees who will do anything unscrupulous to succeed. This behaviour eventually opens up the business to legal and regulatory issues which, ultimately, lead to the disappointment and distrust of customers.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2017

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STORE MANAGEMENT

ill-treated, they will tell 11-16 people. These, in turn, will tell others, and soon a reputation is destroyed and the business closes down. The power of social media, too, cannot be overestimated: one tweet or Facebook post about a bad experience at a shop can reach tens of thousands of people in a matter of hours or even minutes. And once such a perception is created of a business, it is extremely difficult to redeem its image.

Guidelines for employees In the workplace, on the sales floor or the production line, ethical behaviour is equally important. If a worker’s behaviour is at odds with the ethical norms of co-workers, trust dwindles and he or she may get no support or sympathy, become isolated and stagnate in the job. It is thus essential to identify ethical misfits in a business and, with the proper support and training, bring their behaviour in line.

Workers should be aware that in all industries, including the diamond and jewellery one, a bad reputation precedes them in future job applications and can destroy their careers.

Some people believe that ethics relate only to their private lives. They may be church elders or pillars in their communities, but when it comes to business, they apply a different set of rules – and will often compromise their ethics to gain financially.

Retail staff in the diamond and gold industry have to make ethical choices on a daily basis. Do you tell your client the item is imported from the East – and risk losing the sale? Or that it is a second-hand item, or that it is a sapphire (which is not a lie, unless you fail to disclose it is man-made)? Or do you not declare the full amount of cash which you received from the client?

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an opportunity for development and is a strong motivational force. Although it has to come from within each person, a little training and urging from management will help employees develop an inner sense of responsibility and purpose in their jobs.

• Loyalty Loyalty means being faithful towards your job, your colleagues and your employer. It builds a sense of trust among employees and improves teamwork. It adds an extra dimension to your personality and is a trait valued by all.

In the factory, do you tell your boss that you broke or chipped the stone, or that extensive porosity has been temporarily covered? Or, when your gold loss is unexpectedly high, do you accept responsibility and not add silver filings? Do you admit that you have made a mistake and accept responsibility? An ethical person would.

The right of choice vs the right choice According to our Constitution, every citizen of our country has the right to liberty, life, dignity and property. Furthermore, each of us has the right (to choose) to do what we want. However, above these freedoms are moral obligations which expect every person to behave honourably and make choices that respect and do not harm other people, animals, property or the environment.

ETHICAL PRINCIPLES IN ACTION • Personal ethics Following a personal code of ethics brings accountability, responsibility, order, respect and credibility to a person’s life. These are the foundations of upward mobility in any civilised society.

• Honesty We all know that the truth is not always convenient. However a lie can rebound, taint you forever and destroy a career or reputation that took many years to build. Honesty is always the best policy.

• Commitment Accepting a pay-cheque demands not only commitment to your job, but also a responsibility to do your best in it. Commitment offers

An ethical plan of action • Formulate a Code of Conduct for your business and make sure every employee receives a copy.

• Explain the benefits of ethical behaviour in business, as well as in private life, to all employees.

• Identify cultural and moral anomalies in the workplace.

• Use role-playing and training sessions to bring all staff onto the same ethical platform.

• Ensure all leaders in the business act and make decisions in line with the Code of Conduct.

• If ethical problems persist, get professional help.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2017

VISIT US AT JEWELLEX AFRICA 2017

WATCHES

The Swiss watch industry searches for meaning The luxury industry, as a whole – and Swiss watchmaking, in particular – is undergoing an unprecedented series of changes generating fundamental transformations, affecting the very meaning of life and therefore luxury’s raison d’être. Yves Vulcan investigates these changes.

TODAY MORE THAN EVER, THE SWISS WATCH industry is asking itself serious questions with regard to the sweeping upheavals shaking the foundations of the world as we know it. We could merely be content with listening to analysts, sociologists and political pundits, and adapting the aesthetics of our watch by working on our watch dials, our calibres and our short-term strategies. But that would be akin to denying the fact that this movement is definitely on the march and, like a physical timepiece, shows no sign of stopping.

Swiss watchmaking is a universe imbued with values and it is precisely those values that we must safeguard. We need to reflect on those which will endure and those which will not. On what can and should change, and what needs to remain true to itself.

It is only through gaining a clear vision of these values – and how they are evolving – that we

will be able to grasp the other profound and complex transformation affecting clients.

Today’s clients expect from us absolute values and guarantees. Passionate devotees of Swiss watchmaking expect a watch that will not only last a lifetime, but will also symbolise a value to be passed on. Younger generations are also seeking such values and know even better than their parents that nothing ever stands still or is unchangeable. We have the responsibility of enabling them to experience that which is timeless, durable, rare and precious.

If the middle classes disappear, if wealth becomes ever more concentrated, if poverty spreads, if values crumble and if we do not question our attitudes, the Swiss watch industry’s artisans, as well as its small and medium-sized

enterprises, are bound to suffer.

They will have to adapt or die.

Our values help us move towards the future without being crushed by the present. Horatius urged us: “Carpe diem” – “seize the day”. We must understand – with greater confidence– a future that is already changing as you read this. We need to stop being sceptical and start becoming curious!

– Courtesy of www.swisstime.ch

For over 15 years, www.swisstime.ch has been one of the key portals for Swiss watchmaking. Initially focused on journalists, the website is now equally consulted by enthusiasts and industry professionals.

If the middle classes disappear, if wealth becomes ever more concentrated, if poverty spreads, if values crumble and if we do not question our attitudes, the Swiss watch industry’s artisans are bound to suffer. They will have to adapt or die.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2017

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ADVERTORIAL

Celebrating 10 Years of Driving Competitiveness for Growth and Transformation in the diamond industry THIS YEAR MARKS 10 YEARS SINCE THE inception of the State Diamond Trader (SDT) and it has over the past years established itself as a key supplier of rough diamonds locally. As part of our commitment in promoting the growth of the South African diamond beneficiation industry, the entity has put in place various interventions for the facilitation of access to local and international markets with the aim to promote South Africa to become a hub for the diamond cutting and polishing; and to provide South African diamond Beneficiators with opportunities and exposure to market and sell their locally manufactured diamond products; as well as access to international networking platforms to attract investment as well as access to new markets.

The SDT places a great degree of value on stakeholder engagement and collaboration. As an entity, it engages with its stakeholders on an ongoing basis and collaborates wherever possible as it understands that the success of the industry will not be realized through working in silos. Furthermore, the SDT recognised a need for industry wide stakeholder engagement in the diamond industry and conceptualised the South African Diamond Indaba (SADI) first held in 2015. In September 2016, the second SADI was held under the theme of Enabling South Africa to become the heartbeat of diamond beneficiation in Africa and the subtheme of Driving Competitiveness for Growth and Transformation in the Diamond Industry.

Purchasing and selling of rough diamonds The SDT is eligible by law and proclamation to purchase up to 10% of the run of mine from all diamond producers in South African mines and sells these to the entity’s clientele who are diamond beneficiators. Annually, the SDT has a process of advertising for and registering clients wishing to purchase from it. The purpose of registering clients is to ensure compliance, in particular to those relating to the laws of the country pertaining to the holding of a valid beneficiation licence and SARS Tax Clearance Certificate. By the end of the 2016/17 financial year end, the SDT have 75 registered clients in the following segments: Growth & Transformation (HDSA owned) 3 Incubation Growth & Transformation 3 Equitable Access (HDSA owned) 30 Niche & Large/ Med. Beneficiator 39 Promotion of the South African diamond industry is at the core of the SDT to ensure that the industry remains an attractive investment industry.

Through the support and partnership of the SDT, the South African Young Diamond Beneficiators Guild (known as The Guild) was established. The Guild is a predominantly black-owned association comprising of small and emerging diamond manufacturers with a keen focus to develop mutually beneficial relationships for its members with other industry stakeholders to create fertile

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grounds for constructive engagements aimed at transformation and industry growth. The Guild was launched in 2015 at the Inaugural South African Diamond Indaba and the association intends to cultivate healthy business relations with the diamond mining sector and the local and international jewellers with the aim to provide rough diamond supply avenues and polished diamond market opportunities for our members.

Facilitate Access to local and international markets for clients The SDT continues to promote the local beneficiation industry through interventions such as developing its clients so that they can achieve growth, developing the diamond industry as a whole in South Africa and globally (within the relevant markets) including the beneficiation of diamonds beyond just cutting and polishing as well as raising awareness of South African produced diamonds – both at consumer level and as an attractive industry for new entrepreneurs.

To this end, the State Diamond Trader participates in various exhibition platforms such as Jewellex Africa, Hong Kong Jewellery and Gem Fair Show and Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair amongst others. At all these shows, the SDT through partnerships with other stakeholders within the industry introduced the concept of the Diamond Pavilion which has proven to be successful allowing its clients and other local diamond beneficiation companies to exhibit and market their businesses and their diamond products. We also participate at Career Days nationally and conduct Provincial Promotional Visits (PPVs) with the aim of creating awareness on the SDT and the local diamond beneficiation industry.

The Diamond Industry in South Africa has witnessed numerous challenges over the last decade principally the declining workforce and an insufficient number of new entrants required to boost industry’s future, more especially of young people. It was recognised that the noticeable features of minimal participation are contributed by

high youth unemployment and low entrepreneurial activities amongst young people. Generally, in South Africa youth entrepreneurial activities are nominal and more so, within the Diamond Industry it is non-existent and this is due to inadequate knowledge and awareness about the diamond industry amongst the South African populace.

In support of government’s commitment of creating an environment for inclusive growth and transformation of the economy, amongst other economic activities through advancing mineral beneficiation – the SDT which is mandated amid other things, to promote the growth of the local diamond beneficiation industry together with other stakeholders within the industry recognised the poor participation of young people in the diamond industry and thus introduced its Enterprise Development Programme. The EDP programme was officially launched at the Inaugural South African Diamond Indaba in 2015 and SDT seeks to achieve the following through the programme; - To promote self-employment amongst the youth through the development of youth owned and managed businesses - To increase the participation of youth through this enterprise development project.

During the training programme, trainees are exposed to a number of industrial activities including diamond processing education, diamond factory work, diamond market intelligence and the business management functions. The trainees are for most part of the training placed at different stakeholder’s premises and spend a limited time at the SDT. It continues to be the champion for this programme and regularly invites relevant industry representative to facilitate business motivational workshops for the EDP Trainees. Additionally, it continuously pursues other avenues aimed at ensuring that these trainees become proper industrialists.

In living up to our values of promoting a caring attitude, not only to our clients and stakeholders but also to the general disadvantaged South African populace wellbeing, the SDT is committed to acting as a socially responsible organization.

This means that we will fully comply with the laws, rules and regulations of the country. It also means that we will go further by extending a helping hand in our communities from time to time.

During the year under review, the State Diamond Trader adopted Leratong Joy for One, a home in the township of Alexandra, Johannesburg and lends support to the home.

Looking into the future, the State Diamond Trader continues to forge ahead with its commitment to promote the local diamond beneficiation industry though facilitating access to local and international markets as well as to transforming the industry.

As an entity, we also believe that partnerships are an integral part of our success and we continue to nurture these to find solutions to challenges the Diamond Industry faces.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2017

DID YOU KNOW?

Interesting facts 1

2

Although sterling silver is an alloy consisting mainly of silver, many alloys with the word "silver" in their name are only silver in colour. German silver and Tibetan silver are examples of alloys that don't actually contain any elemental silver.

The ancient Romans believed that Neptune, god of the sea, had a special affiliation with aquamarine. According to legend, Neptune obtained the stone when it fell out of the sirens' jewel box and washed up on the shore.

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4

The Catholic Church forbade body decorations in the 13th century, which was when most men ceased wearing earrings. The only ones who continued doing it were pirates, who did not follow church rules.

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As the hip-hop music culture has grown in recent years, men's diamond jewellery has seen a surge in popularity.

Hip-hop jewellery that's covered in diamonds is called "iced out".

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A large rose and smoky quartz sold for $662 500 during an auction in 2013.

The quartz is referred to as “La Madonna Rosa”, for what some believe is an uncanny resemblance to modern-day images of the Virgin Mary.

In 1847 Alfred Cartier was the first jeweller to successfully use platinum in jewellerymaking. Throughout the 19th century, platinum was an incredibly expensive material and was most commonly used by royalty for cutlery and watch-chains.

3

Rubies symbolise power and protection.

When worn as a talisman, a ruby was believed to help protect warriors in battle. One more modern allusion to this legend is in The Wizard of Oz. Dorothy's ruby slippers were thought to protect her from evil.

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Lapidary (gem-cutting) is thousands of years old and is the transformation of raw crystals into dazzling gemstones.

It is the art of making the gem assume a certain shape, unlocking its lustre, colour and brilliance.

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According to one tale, "The Spoonmaker's Diamond" was found by an impoverished man in 1699 while scouring the Istanbul garbage dumps. He haggled with a spoonmaker and managed to get three wooden spoons in exchange for the shiny rock.

• For your weekly dose of interesting industry-related facts, visit: www.facebook.com/pages/SAJN/508328912586722 and “like” the SAJN Facebook page.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2017

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BRAND MANAGEMENT

A watch for the traveller French brand Pierre DeRoche has added a new model with a decidedly classic touch to its TNT collection this year, which is ideal for the traveller. It has a GMT display complete with a power reserve indicator.

The movement, which has 21 jewels, is mechanical. The watch is automatic, with a decorated and engraved oscillating weight, date, dual-time display (GMT24 hours)

and set in a titanium and 43 mm DLCtreated steel case, with steel bezel and lugs. Functions are hours, minutes and seconds. The opaque anthracite black dial has a uniform velvet finish.

The time display accentuates its sporty spirit, as does the offset composition aligned with the power reserve. The applied hands and hour-markers, a glare-proof sapphire

crystal and crystal back are other features. It is mounted on a rubber strap with top-stitching and has a rotating folding clasp It is remarkably stylish, with only one pusher, as all the GMT operations are handled via the screw-locked crown. It is available in two executions – one as above, with the titanium and steel case framing an anthracite black dial and the other in a limited edition of 20 pieces with an entirely black DLC-treated case and sand-toned dial and strap.

Exceptional anniversary timepiece Technical mastery and subdued elegance forge a perfect alliance for Longines’ FlagshipHeritage 60th anniversary collection. This commemorative timepiece has an engraving on the back of the watch of the vessel which inspired the model.

The face of this watch was chosen by Longines’ brand ambassador, British actress Kate Winslet, who fell in love with the model during her visit to the headquarters at Saint Imier in Switzerland. Ever since its release in 1957, this collection has met with success.

The original timepiece inspired the subdued and chic dial for the anniversary limited edition

of 60 numbered pieces. The new collection is available in steel, yellow or rose gold in a 38 mm case, the gold version being limited to the 60 and the steel version to 1 957 pieces. The brushed silvery dial has eight indexes and four Arabic numerals in yellow or rose gold colours. As in the original, the back of the commemorative timepiece carries a stamped caravel – the flagship. The watch is mounted on a brown leather strap.

Longines watchmaking expertise reflects a strong devotion to tradition, elegance and performance. In fact, its earliest brand ambassadors, Humphrey Bogart and Audrey Hepburn, were pictured in advertisements with the caption: “Elegance is an attitude.”

The brand has had many years of expertise as timekeeper of numerous championships of sport or as a partner of many international sports fed-

erations. It is best known by its winged hourglass logo and now has outlets in over 150 countries.

Its founding dates back to 1832

by Auguste Agassiz, who rose to become the Manager of the company. At the time, he was producing timepieces under the “establissage” system, whereby watchmakers worked at home and supplied their products to the trading offices. He built up a network of commercial contacts which enabled him to sell his watches on other continents – in particular, North America.

In the 1850s his nephew, Ernest Francillon, took over the running of the office, simultaneously perfecting the manufacturing methods used in watchmaking in that period. He decided it would be advantageous to bring together under one roof the different stages involved in making timepieces.

A mark of quality The latest model from CAT timekeeping equipment upholds the brand’s tradition of quality. The Shockmaster Nylon collection is fitted with outstanding qualities designed to withstand the most extreme conditions.

Set in an impressive 48 mm extra-hard stainless steel case with a thickness of 14 mm, it has powerful appeal. The rubber bezel provides all-round protection to the watch and, as its name implies, helps

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2017

to absorb shocks from any impact. The dial has a honeycomb structure, a screwdown crown and a steel plate with the stamped CAT logo machine – all examples of the brand’s attention to detail.

Luminous hands and circular indexes ensure constant visibility in difficult light situations, such as diving in deep water, rock-climbing or camping. The brand’s unmistakable logo below 12 o’clock has for many years been a mark of its quality. It

completes the model’s exceptional design.

As its name indicates, this model features a nylon strap with extra resistance, combining durability with reliability, despite its light weight.

The crystal is of extra-hard mineral. Water resistance to 200 m ensures that this model will not yield to the elements.

The collection is available in military green or a black dial version with a matching nylon strap.

Variations include different dial colours (black, silver, black/yellow and black/rose gold) and a strap of silicon or a stainless steel bracelet.

The brand is based in Soloturn, Switzerland.

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925 Sterling Silver Stainless Steel Fashion Jewellery and Scarves

925

Member of

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BRAND MANAGEMENT

Updating an old standby Released this year by Hamilton is an automatic chronograph, inspired by a vintage watch model that is prized by collectors.

The new model is the Intramatic 68m, a mutation of Hamilton’s Chronograph A and Chronograph B way back in 1968. The former featured a panda dial – white with a black background and black sub-

sidiary dial – while the latter had a reverse configuration. Both were powered initially by a Valjoux 7730 movement and later by a Valjoux 7734. Eventually the Chronomatic with the new calibre 11 had a left-hand crown. With a few modern updates, the new Intramatic 68 is aesthetically a combination of all these watches.

Housed in a 42 mm steel case with basic pump-style pushers, the sub-registers are a little oversized. Functions are hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, date and tachymeter. The tachymeter scale is a silvered ring to match the sub-registers; the date display is at 6 o’clock in a black disc outlined in white to avoid a dramatic contrast. The 30-minute counter is at 3 o’clock, with small seconds at

9 o’clock. Hour and minute hands are coated with Superluminova; it has a white chronograph seconds hand and black counter hands. The watch is mounted on a black perforated leather strap with a buckle, reinforcing the vintage feel.

The layout of the dial is almost identical to that of the former chronograph, with the exception of the date window. The movement is an automatic chrono with a 60-hour power reserve.

New technology enables new displays Two new Rolex interpretations, from the Genevan brand’s exclusive collections, ensure that they satisfy performance criteria which exceed watchmaking norms. This applies to the fully assembled watch after casing the movement and pertains to superlative performance in terms of precision, waterproofness and a self-winding movement, guaranteed by the brand’s own certificate.

These latest creations are from the Oyster and Cellini collections – the new Oyster Yacht-

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2017

Master and the Cellini Moonphase. The former is a professional regatta watch created in 2007 which features a programmable count-down for a duration of one to 10 minutes, while the latter displays the date on the circumference around the dial via a centre hand with a crescent moon at its tip. The patented Moonphase module is astronomically accurate for 122 years.

This timepiece has a white lacquer dial with a blue enamelled disc at 6 o’clock showing the full moon and the new moon. The full moon is depicted by a meteorite appliqué and the new moon by a silver ring. The Moonphase is read by the indicator set at 12 o’clock on the sub-dial as the new moon and the full moon rotates through the lunar cycle. This new model is fitted with a brown alligator leather strap and a folding crown clasp in 18ct Everose gold – a first for a Cellini model.

Like all Rolex watches, it is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification, redefined by Rolex in 2015, which testifies that the watch has successfully undergone a series of tests undertaken by Rolex in its own laboratories. The certificate applies to the fully assembled watch after casing the movement, guaranteeing superlative performance on the wrist. Its status merits the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch, coupled with an international fiveyear guarantee.

The Yacht-Master with its Oyster case guarantees waterproofness to a depth of 100 m and is robust. Its characteristically shaped middle

case is crafted from a solid block of 18ct gold or partially corrosion-resistant 904 steel. Its fluted case-back is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows only Rolex watchmakers to access the movement. The winding crown is protected by a guard which is an integral part of the middle case. It is fitted with a triple waterproofness system designed like a submarine hatch.

The crystal is made of virtually scratch-proof sapphire.

Rolex has registered over 400 patents in the course of its history.

It designs, develops and produces inhouse all the essential components of its watches, from the casting of the gold alloys to the machining, crafting assembly and finishing of the movement, case, dial and bracelet.

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“Thanking the industry for their support and wishing our exhibitors a successful Jewellex.”

– Lorna Lloyd, CEO Jewellery Council of South Africa

JEWELLEX AFRICA

2 0 17

Africa’s Premier Jewellery and Watch Exhibition 8-10 OCTOBER 2017 SANDTON CONVENTION CENTRE, SANDTON, JHB, SOUTH AFRICA +27 11 484 5528 | lornal@jewellery.org.za | www.jewellex.co.za | www.facebook.com/myjewellex

LITTLE GEMS

related crime escalated, fuelled by the bootlegging activities of notorious gangster Al Capone of Italian parentage and boss of the Chicago Outfit. The term “bootlegging” originated from the practice of concealing alcoholic drinks in boot tops. Although many gangsters died at gunpoint in bloody battles, Capone enjoyed a seven-year reign before dying of natural causes. Large-scale operators of organised crime included the likes of Lucky Luciano, Bugsy Malone and Meyer Lansky.

In practice, the consumption of alcoholic drinks escalated dramatically in a society which was flouting convention during the final stages of prohibition. Drinks were served in establishments called “speakeasies” which ended the practice of disallowing women from attending public bars. The alcohol available was strong-tasting and inferior quality. This led to the creation of creative cocktail concoctions with eccentric names intended to make the drinks more palatable.

A generation of young women who flaunted their disdain for what was termed acceptable behaviour, were known as “flappers”. They felt liberated from the restrictive dress which had done away with corsets and pantaloons which emphasised the waist and accentuated the hips and welcomed this new fashion for panties and step-ins that slenderised the body, promoting a more boyish look – as did the new haircuts which were in vogue.

They wore excessive make-up and drove automobiles, deliberately flouting social and sexual norms.

It was a time of indulgence and jewellery in the Twenties was deliberately showy. Bejewelled cigarette holders and vanity cases made of precious metals were part of “the look.” The cocktail rings bore testimony to the trend which promoted flamboyance. There was great variety of choices. Some of these rings, redolent of those days, now appear at auctions and are advertised for sale on the Internet. The possibilities for modern counterparts are limited due to the decreasing availability of large precious stones and so these usually feature less valuable gems such as quartz, citrine, tourmaline or topaz which are still available in large sizes.

However, small closely-set stones can create a similar effect because of innovative techniques like the addition of enamelling to produce various textures. For those who like to make a bold statement, a cocktail ring can do just that.

This frenetic period ended with the Wall Street crash of 1929, followed by the Great Depression, ending the activities of the men and women who participated in the somewhat outrageous behaviour of the turbulent Twenties.

An ostentatious ring The cocktail party was a form of entertainment which evolved in the early part of the 20th century, usually taking place in the early evening and lasting an hour or two. It became particularly popular during the Prohibition years in the Twenties, when people were served alcohol bought on the black market. Jewellery of that era, particularly prevalent in America, was known as cocktail jewellery. Alice Weil recalls the circumstance which gave rise to this form of personal adornment of which its most popular form was an ostentatious ring.

COCKTAIL RINGS WERE originally dramatic pieces which accentuated large centre gemstones of emeralds, sapphires and paved diamonds. The most valuable ones featured large diamonds set in platinum and gold. These oversized, showy jewels (the bigger, the better) were worn on any finger, except the one reserved for engagement and wedding rings.

In order to appreciate the cocktail ring it is essential to understand its background. These outsize rings first appeared with the introduction of prohibition in America during the Twenties. It marked a time of evolution and intense cultural and social changes spearheaded by the young men and women who had returned from Europe after their experiences during World War I and who wanted to try a new way of living. This desire encouraged a feeling of independence and freedom. Previously more Americans had lived on farms than in cities, but now they gravitated towards big cities like New York and Chicago and became a consumer society, as the nation’s wealth more than doubled.

The experiment of prohibition – introduced

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by the 18th Amendment in 1920 – was a reaction to the alarming syndrome of excessive drinking among Americans. Prohibi- t i o n , however, led to the holding of illegal drinking parties. It was a time of great social and cultural change known as the “Roaring Twenties” or the “Jazz Age”, as jazz music blossomed. The women of that era, in particular, enjoyed their greater freedom – including the freedom to vote, to bob or crop their hair, known as “the Eton crop” (crowned with the ubiquitous cloche hat), to drink and to smoke in public. They also enjoyed greater sexual freedom and spending power. They danced the night away to the tunes of the foxtrot, the Charleston and the Black Bottom. They splurged on dramatic short-skirted dresses sparkling with beads and sequins, their layers of beaded necklaces swung to the rhythm of these dances. The Twenties was an era of indulgence recorded for posterity through the stories and novels of American author F Scott Fitzgerald who wrote The Great Gatsby, A Diamond as Big as the Ritz and other novels and short stories which convey this controversial period. I have them all.

There was a downside too in that alcohol-

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2017

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