SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • September 2018

R36,00 (incl VAT)

Celebrating 90 years of being the industry’s only trade journal

Jewellery News SEPTEMBER 2018

SA

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Much excitement for this year’s Jewellex Africa

Are trade shows worth it?

When diamonds and art collaborate Becoming a virtual jeweller

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Africa’s Premier Jewellery and Watch Exhibition

6-8 OCTOBER 2018 SANDTON CONVENTION CENTRE, 161 MAUDE STREET, SANDTON, JHB, SOUTH AFRICA

+27 11 484 5528 | lornal@jewellery.org.za | www.jewellex.co.za | www.facebook.com/myjewellex

!

PlatAfrica finalists a

announced T

he 20 finalists for the 19th annual PlatAfrica jewellery design and manufacture competition have been announced. This year’s competition, designed to unearth the country’s top talent, looks to celebrate the significant milestones in the lives of young women who are being raised as the empowered, successful future generation that will take women to a place of equality in society. Presented by the world’s leading producer of platinum group metals, Anglo American Platinum and South African refiner Metal Concentrators in association with Platinum Guild International India, the prestigious competition is open to student, apprentice and professional jewellers in South Africa.

The competition attracted a record 137 entries – 34 professionals and 103 students and apprentices. Themed, “Blessings of Love”, it celebrates the rise of female power. This year’s theme looks to emphasise the rarity and strength of both platinum and her wearer through modern but timeless design, showcasing no more than two or three simple elements of the highest quality production. The 2018 winners will be announced at a gala event on 24 October 2018. The entries this year were of a very high standard and we are delighted to advise that for PlatAfrica 2018, in the Professional Category, the top ten designers are: Liezl Botha and Jefta Mtole from Altin Jewellers, Esti McLachlan with both her earrings and neckpiece, Nicki Böttcher from Nicki B Jewellery Creations, Julian Roux Pneuma and Bhekubaba Tembe from Pneuma Jewellers, Aurélien Brandt from Ruth Prowse School of Art, Mandlenkosi None from The Platinum Incubator and Metaxia Segal from Uwe Koetter Jewellers. In the Student Category, the top ten designers are: Lonwabo Majola, Masibulele Mgoduka and Lené Swartz from Cape Peninsula University of Technology, Callen Miller from Durban University of Technology, Sandile Didi from Mizane Jewellers, Bokang Naile and Puleng Tsotetsi from Pneuma Jewellers, Zola Ntintili from Rare Earth Creations, Susanne Misslinger from Ruth Prowse School of Art and Matete Seliane from The Platinum Incubator.

Richline SA enters new era of utilisin An industry first in SA and one of only a few jewellery manufacturers worldwide, Richline SA continues its tech drive by building on the benefits of hydrogen.

A

lready used in many industries for more than 100 years, hydrogen is now seeing its development in the jewellery sector accelerated – and Richline SA is leading the way.

“We’re very excited to be in the final process of converting certain functions in our manufacturing plant to hydrogen,” says Johan Bezuidenhout, Managing Director of Richline SA. “We’re hoping to complete the process before the end of September.

This is a first not only for SA, but for Africa, and we’re one of only a few manufacturing companies in the jewellery industry worldwide which have started converting to hydrogen. The reason behind this decision is that hydrogen is a much more costeffective, safe and environmentally friendly option. “ The benefits of hydrogen are remarkable. The use of hydrogen greatly reduces pollution. When hydrogen is combined with oxygen in a fuel cell, energy in the form

of electricity is produced. This electricity has many uses. The advantage of using hydrogen as an energy carrier is that when it combines with oxygen, the only by-products are water and heat. No greenhouse gases or other particulates are produced by the use of hydrogen fuel cells.

Using renewable energy provides a sustainable system which is independent of petroleum products and is non-polluting.

Industrial hydrogen allows for: • Security of supply and energy independence for production (freedom from logistical constraints).

• Control over costs (visibility on fixed and variable costs).

• Reliability and continuity of service (even in peak periods of consumption).

• Drastic reduction of a company’s carbon footprint.

• Better safety conditions.

ng hydrogen “This is a first not only for SA, but for Africa, and we’re one of only a few manufacturing companies in the jewellery industry worldwide which have started converting to hydrogen.”

“The reason behind this decision is that hydrogen is a much more costeffective, safe and environmentally friendly option. Our goal is to utilise all the benefits of hydrogen throughout the factory operation.”

• Hydrogen can be produced domestically from resources like natural gas, coal, solar energy, wind and biomass. When used to power highly efficient fuel cell electric vehicles, hydrogen has the potential to help conserve petroleum.

• The use of hydrogen greatly reduces pollution. When hydrogen is combined with oxygen in a fuel cell, energy in the form of electricity is produced. This electricity can be used to power vehicles, as a heat source and for many other uses.

Tel: +27 11 418-1600 Fax: +27 11 825- 4043 Cell: +27 76 414 -7357 E-mail: johan@richlinesa.co.za Website: w w w.richlinesa.co.za

Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: sajewellerynews@isikhova.co.za Watch Editor: Alice Weil Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182 E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za Advertising Sales: Ian Starnes Cell: 082-052-8428 E-mail: adsales@isikhova.co.za

c ntents 46. DIAMONDS 14. NEWS

Advertising Sales: Trivern Goodoon Tel: 072-837-4962 E-mail: sales@isikhova.co.za

When diamonds and art collaborate

• De Beers to shut Voorspoed mine • W FDB responds to revised Federal Trade Commission guidelines

Advertising Sales Representative (India): Bhupal Potdar Cell: 91-982-115-1035 Email: bhupalpotdar@gmail.com

• Pandora CEO resigns as sales disappoint

Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong): Maud Errera E-mail: maud@lni.com.hk Designer: Mirah Bradt Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677 E-mail: subscriptions@isikhova.co.za Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution

49. BRAND HISTORY

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC, PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010, Johannesburg, South Africa.

27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa.

Hero’s watch changes hands

Website: www.isikhova.co.za

Becoming a virtual jeweller

52. TECHNOLOGY

Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer E-mail: andrewm@isikhova.co.za Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za Printing: Typo

Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9

24. JEWELLEX AFRICA 2018 Much excitement for this year’s Jewellex Africa

29. JEWELLEX AFRICA BUYER’S GUIDE 2018 34. DIAMONDS Synthetic diamonds 101

• Longines’ Record collection

Industry reaches out for Mandela Day

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2018. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

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Second World Emerald Symposium announces high-stakes participants

57. BRAND MANAGEMENT

37. JEWELLERY

Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa.

Website: www.jewellery.org.za

54. INTERNATIONAL SYMPOSIUM

43. MARKETING

• Patek Philippe unveils new chronograph • Gucci’s G-Frame

Are trade shows worth it? Absolutely,

60. LITTLE GEMS

if planned correctly

Gems from Down Under

R36,00 (incl VAT)

Celebrating 90 years of being the industry’s only trade journal

Jewellery News SEPTEMBER 2018

SA

EDITION N

Much excitement for this year’s Jewellex Africa

On the cover Protea Diamonds, an industry leader for over 50 years, has a new look, a great team and an exciting diamond and jewellery range to kick off the New Year. “We would like to thank all

Are trade shows worth it?

When diamonds and art collaborate Becoming a virtual jeweller

our clients who have continued supporting us throughout the years and would like to invite new clients to join us too – 2019 is going to be a great year full of surprises.” Contact Protea Diamonds on tel: (011) 484-7205 or e-mail: natasia@proteadiamonds.co.za.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2018

STRAP

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2018

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NEWS

DE BEERS TO SHUT VOORSPOED MINE De Beers will close its Voorspoed mine in SA after an extensive search failed to turn up a suitable buyer, it said.

The company’s South Africam business, De Beers Consolidated Mines (DBCM), began looking for a buyer for the asset last year, after determining that a lower-cost operator would have a better chance of maximising its value.

“We were committed to ensuring that any potential future operator would not only have the required technical and financial capability, but also values that are aligned with those of

DBCM,” says Phillip Barton, CEO of DBCM. “Unfortunately, we haven’t been able to identify a bidder that met the necessary criteria, so we’ve reluctantly taken the decision to close the operation in a responsible manner, as it’s no longer economically viable for DBCM to operate the mine.”

While De Beers has stated its intention of closing the mine, the Department of Mineral Resources (DMR) asked it to manage the closure alongside a separate process during which the DMR will conduct a search for a potential

operator to acquire and run the mine.

Failing an appropriate offer, the mine, which is in Kroonstad, Free State, will close by the end of the year.

Voorspoed is one of the miner’s two South African projects. The second, Venetia mine, is located in Limpopo Province. The company recently invested US$2 billion to transition that asset to an underground mining venture, which will extend its operating life into the 2040s.

– Rapaport

AIGS WARNS INTERNATIONAL TRADE ABOUT FAKE GEM REPORTS The Asian Institute of Gemological Sciences (AIGS) has identified fake gemstone reports bearing the AIGS logo in the gemstone market.

“We’ve found out that some people made fake reports with a working QR code,” says AIGS Chairman Kennedy Ho. “The only way to be sure that a report is genuine is to check the AIGS website, www.aigsthailand.com, or to enquire via email, with a photo of the report, to info@aigsthailand.com.”

AIGS, based in the Jewelry Trade Centre in Bangkok, issues hundreds of gemstone reports every day. Thailand is an important international hub in natural coloured gemstone manufacturing and trade.

“Some unscrupulous people have decided to rip off customers by using AIGS’s name.

Indeed, they’ve created fake AIGS reports which look like genuine ones,” says Ho. “If you scan the QR code of the fake report, you’ll be

directed to a website: called www.aigsthailand. co, which doesn’t end in ‘.com’. We urge anyone who believes they may be in possession of a fake AIGS gemstone report to check the AIGS website or to contact AIGS directly by sending an email to info@aigsthailand.com.

“AIGS will be taking legal action to the fullest extent of the law against the perpetrators and those who use the fake reports with the intention of misleading others.”

CLARITY IS OUR TRADE STAND POINT

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ISIKHOVA/SAJN/MAY2018

Finest Gemstones & Beads Cape Town: 021 422 4677 or 021 424 0063 or 076 162 3741 Email: info@ajanta.co.za or gems@ajanta.co.za www.ajantaafrika.com

VOD DUBAI INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW TO TAKE PLACE IN NOVEMBER The VOD Dubai International Jewellery Show (VOD DIJS), the Middle East and North Africa’s only B2B and B2C jewellery industry event, returns for its second instalment from 14-17 November at the Dubai World Trade Centre.

VOD DIJS is a combined effort organised by DV Global Link, a joint-venture company between the Dubai World Trade Centre and the Italian Exhibition Group. The show has been divided into four distinctive categories: Global Brands, Fine Jewellery, Gemstones & Diamonds, and Packing & Technology. It covers various aspects of the global jewellery industry, such as craftsmanship, production, distribution, precious materials, trends and more.

Tools such as the pre-promotional roadshow and hosted buyers’ programme have been designed to give maximum support for event exhibitors. The roadshow, the largest of its kind for any Middle Eastern jewellery event, targets select buyers, international brands, boutiques, wholesalers and retailers across the GCC, as well as the greater Middle East, Africa, Europe and Asia. On the other hand, the hosted buyers; programme pairs top-brand local and international retailers and department stores with wholesalers and event exhibitors to ensure access to unique

collections, a competitive advantage and the chance to build new relationships in the industry.

The second VOD DIJS will also continue to increase the emirate’s jewellery trading potential via several ongoing strategic partnerships with local and international trade organisations, starting with the Dubai Gold & Jewellery Group and India’s Gem Jewellery Export Promotion Council, with more to be announced in the coming months.

Recently announced UAE initiatives, such as the new VAT reverse charge mechanism for the jewellery B2B trade, the introduction of longterm investment visas and 100% company ownership for international investors, are making VOD DIJS even more enticing for international jewellery producers interested in taking advantage of Dubai’s trading location.

With more than 500 local, regional and international exhibitors launching brand-new product lines, collections and jewellery, VOD DIJS delivers a unique approach and innovative format and layout, culminating in an enhanced visitor experience. VOD DIJS is open from 2-10pm on 14, 15 and 17 November 2018 and from 3-10pm on Friday, 16 November. Entry is free of charge.

PANDORA CEO RESIGNS AS SALES DISAPPOINT Pandora CEO Anders Colding Friis has stepped down after second-quarter sales missed the jeweller’s expectations and forced it to cut its outlook for the year.

Global sales were flat year on year at US$749 million for the April-June period, the Danish charm-maker reported. Revenue in the USA fell 12% in local currency, while sales in the wider Americas region decreased 6%.

Pandora noted weak demand for its charms, as well as a soft performance in the wholesale division due to reduced inventory.

“New rings, earrings, neckwear and bracelets delivered growth, as expected, but the new charms aren’t fuelling the re-ignition of charms revenues as anticipated,” the company said.

Asia-Pacific revenue performed better, climbing 11% in local currency to US$177,5

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2018

million. That rise was mainly due to China, where sales increased 29% in yuan as the jeweller opened new stores in the area.

Pandora

now

expects

sales

growth

in the 4-7% range, versus earlier guidance of 7-10%, it said. In an effort to increase profitability, the brand will also lay off nearly 400 workers, primarily from its manufacturing centre in Thailand. Global net profit fell 4,7% to US$162,3 million in the quarter.

Jeremy Schwartz joined Pandora as its new Chief Operating Officer on 1 September and will jointly manage the company alongside Chief Financial Officer Anders Boyer until it finds a replacement for Colding Friis.

Pandora expects to open approximately 250 concept stores during the year, up from the previously planned 200. – Rapaport

Jewellex Today! is the popular daily newspaper distributed at Jewellex Africa which contains essential information, reports, news, views, developments and trends unveiled at the show on a daily basis.

Published by Isikhova, the newspaper is distributed free on each of the fair days to visitors and exhibitors.

It also carries advertising to allow exhibitors to hone in on the highly lucrative market Jewellex Africa attracts.

To book your spot in this year’s newspaper, contact Ian Starnes on tel: 082 052 8428 or Trivern Goodoon on tel: 072 837 4926.

STRAP

CIBJO PRESIDENT PLEDGES SUPPORT FOR INDIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri has pledged CIBJO’s support for India’s giant jewellery and gemstone sectors during the opening ceremony of the summer edition of the India International Jewellery Show (IIJS), which took place last month at the Bombay Exhibition Centre.

The massive jewellery and gemstone trade fair, which is organised by the Indian industry’s primary trade organisation, the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), attracts some 1 500 exhibitors in multiple pavilions and tens of thousands of professional attendees from 800 cities and towns across the country and from more than 80 countries.

Cavalieri was a guest of honour at the opening ceremony, where – together with the GJEPC leadership – he participated in a traditional candle-lighting ceremony, led by the council’s Chairman, Pramod Agarwal.

Addressing the assembled gathering, Cavalieri congratulated the GJEPC for its ongoing work in the development and promotion of the Indian gemstone and jewellery sector, which today is the world’s

dominant centre for the processing of gemstones and jewellery and is also the thirdlargest national jewellery consumer market.

The growing importance of India’s domestic market, in particular, is reflected in the emergence of the IIJS August show as a major fixture of the global jewellery sector’s annual calendar, he pointed out. “India’s been a critically important player in our industry for decades already, but was initially regarded predominantly as a production centre. Today it’s one of a handful of countries, together with the USA and China, whose presence is felt in all stages of the chain of distribution, both driving and satisfying demand,” Cavalieri said. “But not only is India important to our industry, our industry is critical to India, contributing about 7% of its GDP, about 16% of its total merchandise exports and employing more than 4,64 million workers. With almost 18% of the world’s population, India is a country which conclusively demonstrates that, while precious gemstones and jewellery may be non-essential luxury items, the jewellery and gemstone industry is an indispensable part of the global economy.”

IDI TO HOLD DIAMOND AUCTION OF SPECIAL STONES AT HONG KONG SEPTEMBER The Israel Diamond Pavilion at the September Hong Kong Jewellery and Gem Fair, organised by the Israel Diamond Institute (IDI), will feature an auction of special stones offered by exhibitors. To ensure a high level of interest, IDI will award several free trips to Israel to buyers at the auction. The trips will be timed to coincide with the International Diamond Week in Israel at the end of January 2019.

The auctioned goods will be on view and bids may be placed during the first several days of the exhibition. Progress on the bidding will be shown on screens located within the Israel Diamond Pavilion.

The Israeli pavilion, located in Hall 9 of the Asia World Expo, will be one of the largest at the show. It will comprise 66 Israeli diamond companies and will encompass 978 m². There will also be 13 additional Israeli companies exhibiting at different locations throughout the show.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2018

The IDI Lounge at the heart of the pavilion will feature a bar outfitted with three Get Diamonds Show search terminals and a charging station for smartphones and other devices. Get Diamonds Show is a search platform innovated by IDI that enables buyers to search a database of all goods offered by Israeli exhibitors at the show. With both a Chinese and an English version, the search platform attracts a large number of users to the terminals in the IDI Lounge. The search platform is also accessible on smartphones.

IDI will launch a special website for the Hong Kong September show with full details of all Israeli companies participating in the show, including background and contact information, as well as a map of the Israel Diamond Pavilion. The site will go live the day before the show opens.

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LUXCO HOLDS BRAND SHOWCASE Luxco Importers, importer and marketer of luxury consumer products, specialising in timepieces, writing instruments and jewellery, held a brand showcase on 16 and 17 August at the Radisson Blu Gautrain Hotel in Sandton, Johannesburg. On showcase were renowned

brands Michel Herbelin, TW Steel, Rotary, Wenger, Cluse, Cross and Sheaffer.

Photographer, fashionista and popular blogger, Amanda Custo, was also at the showcase. Custo is the local brand ambassador for Rotary timepieces.

WFDB RESPONDS TO REVISED FTC GUIDELINES The World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) has responded to the revised US Federal Trade Commission’s (FTC) guidelines released as they relate to the issue of descriptors for diamonds. The new guidelines are not in line with the Diamond Terminology Guidelines as agreed last year and implemented by the WFDB, the International Diamond Council, the International Diamond Manufacturers’ Association and CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, says WFDB President Ernie Blom. However, he points out that the new guides do require that all laboratory-grown diamonds must be clearly and conspicuously disclosed. “We have a united stand regarding nomenclature which was agreed with all the combined knowledge and experience of the leading industry bodies, but the FTC appears to have moved in a different direction,” says Blom.

Previously, the FTC’s guidelines approved non-mined diamonds: laboratory-created, laboratory-grown, [manufacturer-name]-created, and synthetic as descriptors, and while the first three remain, it has removed the term “synthetic”.

“We feel that these changes provide too much of a bias towards the laboratory-grown diamond sector,” says Blom. “We appreciate the hard work of the FTC, but we don’t feel that the views of the diamond sector were taken sufficiently into account, though we

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2018

acknowledge there was consultation with American industry bodies. The guidelines don’t include the views of the global diamond trade which the WFDB represents, although we’re pleased that laboratory-grown stones have to be clearly marked as such.

“Our paramount aim is always consumer confidence and the revision has the potential to cause a degree of confusion. The FTC notes that manufacturers which make diamonds in a factory setting are free to use other descriptors, as long as they ‘clearly and conspicuously convey that the product is not a mined stone’, but we feel this might provide too much latitude in their marketing claims.

“We appreciate that the FTC rejected a bid by diamond growers to include terms such as ‘[manufacturer-name]-grown, foundry, created and grown’. These are stones created to order in a factory. We’re also pleased that the FTC stipulates that any descriptors for non-mined diamonds must be absolutely clear and prominently displayed to consumers. A diamond sold without any descriptors must be a natural diamond.

“We hope that the door’s still open for us to go back and approach the FTC in order to try to persuade it to re-think its decision,” adds Blom.

Business barometer RETAILERS

100%

BETTER

50%

0%

SAME

SAME

50%

100%

WORSE

BETTER

0%

bridal

SAME

15%

Watch sales

watches

11%

MANUFACTURERS

DIAMOND DEALERS

0% BETTER

BETTER

0%

80%

40%

SAME

SAME

20%

80%

0,5ct 0%

40%

WORSE

WORSE

Best-selling diamond size:

20%

BETTER

SAME

74%

0%

General sales compared with last year this time

20%

fine jewellery

WORSE

WORSE

Foot traffic

JULY 2018 vs JULY 2017 Breakdown of retail sales

0%

0% BETTER

A monthly survey conducted

by SAJN among industry players (small and large) on a national basis.

BETTER

WORSE

0% SAME

Consumption of gold compared with last year this time

Consumption of platinum compared with last year this time

Consumption of silver compared with last year this time

100% WORSE

General sales compared with last year this time

WHOLESALERS

20 18 16 14 12

2015 2016

10

2017

BETTER

2018

8

0%

6

SAME

4

0%

2 0

100%

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

(Above): Year-on-year statistics for the jewellery industry reflecting armed robberies, burglaries, armed night robberies and smash-and-grab incidents. – All information supplied by the Consumer Goods Council

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2018

WORSE

General sales compared with last year this time

JEWELLEX AFRICA

Much excitement for this year’s Jewellex Africa Jewellex Africa 2018 is scheduled to take place from 6-8 October at the Sandton Convention Centre in Johannesburg. The show attracts exhibitors and buyers from SA, African states and international countries. It offers an environment for B2B linkages that result in significant business growth and the integration of new industry participants.

JEWELLEX AFRICA OFFERS THE BUYER A WIDE variety in terms of merchandise and services available. The three-day event has established a reputation for being the premier showcase for South African manufacturers and distributors.

By growing Jewellex into Jewellex Africa, the JCSA aims to expand its offering to include neighbouring countries and international exhibitors, acknowledging that SA is part of a global market. The core purpose of this vision is to assist the South African jewellery industry to grow and create jobs, as well as earn foreign exchange.

Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the JCSA, says there are several interesting factors that make Jewellex Africa different. Firstly, it aims to provide a platform where key players in the local market can exhibit their creations under one roof, over one weekend a year, as well as do business and network, thus creating a

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“jewellery community”.

Additionally, Jewellex Africa is one of the longest-running expos in the country, having started some years ago at the former Kine Centre in downtown Johannesburg, where manufacturers and wholesalers exhibited their wares on trestle tables. As the event has grown in size and reputation over the years, numerous venues have been used.

The main aim of the event is to showcase new merchandise lines and the most exclusive and extensive product ranges of watches, clocks, fine jewellery, pearls and precious stones, jewellery packaging, machinery, accessories and services available to the local and international retail and wholesale jewellery industry.

“One of the main objectives of Jewellex Africa is to become the trading hub of Africa, giving other countries an opportunity to see

what the continent has to offer in one space,” says Lloyd. “It also aims to provide a secure trading platform for product distribution into and out of Africa.”

The 2018 Jewellex Committee – a subcommittee of the Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA) board, which comprises JCSA members representing various stakeholders of the local jewellery industry – has announced a number of exciting activities to take place at this year’s event. “It is our aim to create some excitement and pizzazz and in order to achieve this, we will once again be giving away R100 000 in a lucky draw that will take place on the last day of Jewellex, 8 October, at 11am in the Metcon Coffee Shop.”

Michael Pryke, who is familiar with the local diamond and jewellery industries through his association with Metal Concentrators (Metcon) and SA Jewellery News, has been

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2018

JEWELLEX AFRICA

Jewellex Africa offers the buyer a wide variety in terms of merchandise and services available. The three-day event has established a reputation for being the premier showcase for South African manufacturers and distributors. invited to serve as the MC at this year’s event.

“A decision was taken to really go all out to organise interesting talks for this year’s show,” says Lloyd. Exhibitors will also have the opportunity to give talks during five-minute slots in the Metcon Speakers’ Corner. “We believe that an important element of Jewellex is to educate visitors to the show. As such, we have invested in sourcing experts in the fields of digital marketing, business growth, leadership sales, change and crime, which are among the topics being looked at.”

The Jewellery Council Collection Awards pieces will be exhibited in the Metcon coffee shop and visitors and exhibitors will again be able to vote for their favourite pieces. The theme of this year’s competition is “Retro Jewellery”.

For the first time ever, Jewellex will be launching a “Showcase Lane” which will provide an opportunity for smaller jewellers to showcase their finest pieces/products on a smaller scale together with other jewellers.

“Jewellers must grab this fantastic opportunity to expose their products on a platform in keeping with their brand,” says Lloyd.

Gin tastings and welcome drinks will be offered at the Cape Precious Metals (CPM) gin and wine bar.

The 2018 Jewellex Africa Cocktail Function, sponsored by Anglo American Platinum Limited, will take place on Saturday, 6 October at 6pm for 6.30pm at the Michelangelo Hotel. “We invite all our industry colleagues and friends to attend the evening with us,” says Lloyd. “What a fantastic way for the industry to network with customers while enjoying cocktails and some light entertainment.” Entry to this year’s Cocktail Function will be free of charge, but a cash bar will be available.

“We‘re very excited about this year’s show,” says Lloyd. “We’re also extremely grateful to our sponsors: Brinks for the lanyards, GIA for the carrier bags, Metcon for the coffee shop, Gemfields for Wi-Fi, CJR Gift Sales for branded water, Rand Refinery for coffee voucher sponsorships, BYL Diamonds for the registrations and CPM for the gin and wine bar.”

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2018

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JEWELLEX AFRICA

Everything a jeweller could possibly need Digital Wax has been exhibiting at Jewellex for 10 years now.

Eve Scholtz talks to SA Jewellery News about the company’s jewellery design software, its 3D printers, its recent partnership with Stuller to launch its products locally and why she’s looking forward to next month’s show.

Why is it important for companies to exhibit at Jewellex?

It’s a great way of meeting new clients and catching up with old ones from around the country and, of course, letting jewellers know what new products we have on offer. This year we’ll be launching all the new USA Stuller brand products at the show, which is very exciting.

like Matrix or Rhinogold. There’s something for everyone, at every skill level. Whether you’re a big brand or just a one-man show, we help jewellers get into digital production.

We’ve always made it our goal to improve productivity and growth within our industry and we’ll continue doing so with the best affordable products we can find.

Why is it important for buyers to visit Jewellex?

It’s a good way to find out what’s happening in the industry and keep up with new jewellery trends and products. There’s always something new to see and stay on top of your game.

Even if you only have a small workshop, as a member of the industry, you can learn a lot at Jewellex and plan your future business ventures. Jewellex exhibitors put a great deal of time and effort into their stands for their clients, it’s well worth the visit. It’s also very convenient to have everything the industry has to offer under one roof.

Tell us more about Digital Wax’s history and products.

In 2005 Albert Maree and I launched Rhino 3D software, combined with a Roland cnc milling machine. Albert had developed a clamping system and written software to hold a wax stick or block to mill out rings. This was revolutionary to the jewellery industry at that time. We very soon realised that we’d have to train jewellers and goldsmiths in the Rhino 3D software, which led to Digital Wax becoming an accredited McNeel Rhino training institution. Albert’s trained in excess of 6 000 jewellers and students all over the country since then.

Currently we have 3D printers in all price brackets and easy-to-use retail software like CounterSketch, or bespoke design software

28

possibly need.

Digital Wax will be importing clients’ orders once a week in bulk to make it cost-effective for everyone. Delivery on products in stock should take no longer than seven to 14 days (if not stopped by customs), delivered by courier to the jeweller’s door. Stuller has a large range of cast-and-go jewellery products available on a seven-day turnaround time. At www. digitalwax.co.za, retailers and goldsmiths can now order online all the tools that aren’t available locally or jewellery items that aren’t carried by the local suppliers.

We’ve worked hard to make importing these items as quick and easy as possible for jewellers. Due to the vast range of products available from Stuller, Digital Wax won’t carry any physical stock, but facilitate all the orders, invoicing, import costs, customs duties and shipping issues.

What can visitors expect to see at the Digital Wax stand at this year’s Jewellex?

All the latest jewellery design software, 3D printers, Stuller jewellery models and Stuller catalogues in e-magazine format on USB and hard-cover catalogues. We’ll also be giving US$500 credit to one lucky winner who registers online on the portal at Jewellex.

Tell us more about Digital Wax’s recently partnership with Stuller.

We’re very excited about what this can mean for jewellers throughout Africa. Stuller’s one of the largest wholesale jewellery manufacturers in the world and has over 200 000 products available online, from jewellery tooling and equipment to fine jewellery, gems and diamonds, packaging, watch spares, earrings, pendants, chains and bracelets, findings and mountings – everything a jeweller could

What do you enjoy most about the jewellery industry?

Meeting new people, especially creative individuals – they inspire me every day with their ideas and challenge me on many levels. I’ve made lifelong friends with many jewellers over the years. I feel as if we’ve all grown as jewellers through these connections. I’m a firm believer in sharing information to better our lives and businesses. As I travel through the country, I love visiting their stores to catch up and I often stay longer in a place than I intended.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2018

WE HAVE MOVED! Suite 313 – Third Floor 5 Sturdee Avenue, Johannesburg Contact details Office: 011 023 6516 Cell: 0649541204 / 082 707 8676 info@afrasiandiamonds.co.za www.afrasiandiamonds.co.za

NOW AVAILABLE AT AA WATCH WHOLESALERS Contact: tel: (012) 342 8978/9 or email: orders@aawatch.co.za

JEWELLEX AFRICA 2018 BUYERS’ GUIDE LISTINGS CLOCKS & WATCHES

OUTCLASS CRYSTALIZED GEMS Contact: Desmond Ratsoma

E-mail: omri@byldiamonds.com; chene@byldiamonds.com

AA WATCH WHOLESALERS

Website: www.ocgems.co.za

Contact: Adam Fulat

Tel: +27 (0) 53 831 1570

LUTE DIAMONDS

Tel: +27 (0) 12 342 8978

E-mail: ratsomad@ocgems.co.za

Contact: Itumeleng Gerald Lute Tel: + 27 (0) 72 252 9457

E-mail: aaww@lantic.net DESIGN SOFTWARE AND 3D PRINTERS

CJR GIFT SALES

E-mail: info@lutediamonds.com; luteig@gmail.com

Contact: Rowan Jacobson

3D WAX WORX

Website: www.cjr.co.za

Contact: Farrel Pillay

MURCIA & CO

Tel: +27 (0) 11 257 6000

Website: www.3dwaxworx.co.za

Contact: Jarrid Murcia

E-mail: rowan@cjr.co.za; alarna@cjr.co.za

Tel: +27 (0) 87 086 1246

Website: www.murciaco.com

E-mail: info@3dwaxworx.co.za

Tel: +27 (0) 21 418 7891 E-mail: jarrid@murciaco.com

SM WATCH WHOLESALE

DIGITAL WAX - STULLER

Contact: Shabir Moosa

Contact: Eve Scholtz

PICCOLO BRILLIANTI

Website: www.smwatch.co.za

Website: www.digitalwax.co.za

Contact: Russell Wainbergas

Tel: +27 (0) 12 326 8348

Tel: +27 (0) 11 883 2449

Tel: +27 (0) 11 643 2840

E-mail: smwatch@iafrica.com

E-mail: admin@digitalwax.co.za

E-mail: russell@piccolobrillianti.co.za

URBSUP (PTY) LTD

DIAMONDS

STATE DIAMOND TRADER

Contact: PC. Viljoen

Contact: Ntombizodwa Kobuwe

Website: www.urbansupply.co.za

AFRASIAN DIAMONDS

Tel: +27 (0) 83 484 0068

Contact: Mohammed Altamash

Website: www.statediamondtrader. gov.za

E-mail: p.c@urbansupply.co.za

Website: www.afrasiandiamonds.co.za

Tel: +27 (0) 11 003 0313

Tel: +27 (0) 82 707 8676

E-mail: ntombizodwak@ statediamondtrader.gov.za; godfreym@statediamondtrader.gov.za

COLOURED GEMSTONES

E-mail: info@afrasiandiamonds.co.za; towban@afrasiandiamonds.co.za

BLUE STAR GEMS HONG KONG Contact: Chetan Vijay

BASIKWA TRADING (PTY) LTD

Tel: + 66 819 30 27 01

Contact: Moses Mokaila

E-mail: bsg_tz@yahoo.com; chetan@bluestarstones.com

Website: www.basikwa.com Tel: +27 (0) 82 884 6216 E-mail: moses@basikwa.com

BLUESTAR GLOBAL LLC Contact: Sanjay Goyal

BOROBALO DIAMONDS

Tel: +13 478 659 362

Contact: Dewet Tshonto

E-mail: bluestarsanjay@gmail.com; bluestarneelam@gmail.com

Website: www.borobalodiamonds.co.za

GEMFIELDS Contact: Janet Silk Website: www.gemfields.com Tel: +27 (0) 10 900 4266 E-mail: janetsilk@mweb.co.za; janet@janetsilk.com; janet.silk@gemfields.co.uk

Tel: +27 (0) 18 596 1362

UNITY DIAMOND DISTRIBUTORS Contact: Martin Gerschlowitz Website: www.unitydiamonds.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 11 484 2594 E-mail: dani@unitydiamonds.co.za; martin@unitydiamonds.co.za V & O DIAMONDS & JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Contact: Vusi Bophela Tel: +27 (0) 11 021 3379 E-mail: vvdiamondd@yahoo.com

E-mail: borobalo@hotmail.co.za BYL DIAMONDS

EDUCATION AND TRAINING

Contact: Omri Yedid Levi

CULLINAN JEWELLERY SCHOOL

Website: www.byldiamonds.com

Contact: Nthalefane Mahloke

Tel: +27 (0) 21 419 2000

Tel: +27 (0) 12 734 0245 E-mail: cullinanjewelleryschool@gmail. com

DESIGN@50

Website: www.badivinecreation.co.za

Contact: Edna de Bruyn

MINTEK JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING TRAINING & INCUBATION

Tel: +27 (0) 11 442 9201

Contact: Nirdesh Singh

E-mail: badivinecreation@gmail.com

E-mail: edna@design50.co.za

Website: www.mintek.co.za

DURBAN UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY

Tel: +27 (0) 83 721 6958

Tel: +27 (0) 11 709 4111

EUROPGOLD (PTY) LTD

E-mail: mphomako@mintek.co.za

Contact: Jonathan Friedman

Contact: Chris de Beer

Tel: +27 (0) 11 643 5311

Website: www.dut.ac.za

ORBIT TVET COLLEGE

Tel: +27 (0) 31 373 6600

Contact: Tebogo Molefe

E-mail: chrisdb@dut.ac.za; samanthav@dut.ac.za

Tel: +27 (0) 14 592 8462

HAUPT JUWEL

E-mail: tmolefe@orbitcollege.co.za

Contact: Kurt Haupt

EKURHULENI JEWELLERY PROJECT

SEDA LIMPOPO JEWELLERY INCUBATOR

Tel: +27 (0) 72 587 0055

Contact: Colin Campbell

Contact: Mabatjo Malatji

E-mail: info@hauptjuwelen.co.za

Website: www.http://ejp.yolasite.com

Website: www.slji.org.za

Tel: +27 (0) 11 825 5822

Tel: +27 (0) 15 293 0214

INFINITI JEWELLERS

E-mail: ejpmarketing@ejewellery.org.za; colin@ejewellery.org.za; business@ejewellery.org.za

E-mail: info@slji.org.za

Contact: Shaun Fraser/Darrin Smith

E-mail: jon@europgold.com

Website: www.hauptjuwelen.co.za

GIA EDUCATION & LABORATORY (PTY) LTD Contact: Elizabeth Bokaba Website: www.gia.edu Tel: +27 (0) 11 334 2744 E-mail: ebokaba@gia.edu

Tel: +27 (0) 21 461 5344 SEKGOSESE JEWELLERY Contact: Molope Nkwe

E-mail: shaun@infinitij.com; darrin@infinitij.com

Tel: +27 (0) 82 701 9961 E-mail: sekgosesejewelleryschool@ gmail.com

JENNI GAULT INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY DESIGN Contact: Jenni Gault

SIVANA ACADEMY OF JEWELLERY DESIGN MASTERS (PTY) LTD

Website: www.jennigault.com

Contact: Admon Sivan

E-mail: admin@jennigault.com

Tel: +27 (0) 83 379 9797

GLOBAL JEWELLERY ACADEMY

Website: www.sivanadiamonds.co.za

Contact: Robert Buys

Tel: +27 (0) 11 025 2552

Website: www.globaljewellery academy.co.za

MF CREATIONS

E-mail: sivan@sivanadiamonds.co.za

Contact: Irene Mofokeng

THE BERA DIAMOND ACADEMY

Website: www.mfcreations jewellery.co.za

Contact: Dawood Bismilla

Tel: +27 (0) 73 841 5524

Website: www.benefittohumanity.com

E-mail: Skuzabel72@gmail.com

Tel: +27 (0) 11 857 2854 E-mail: robertb@ globaljewelleryacademy.co.za IMFUNDISO SKILLS DEVELOPMENT Contact: Cedrick Mahloke

Tel: +27 (0) 73 255 2744 E-mail: db.bda@hotmail.com

Contact: Matteo Vergioli

Tel: +27 (0) 12 734 0245 E-mail: sowetojewelleryschool@ gmail.com KIMBERLEY DIAMOND & JEWELLERY INCUBATOR

MORAGLIONE 1922 ITALY

TSHWANE UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY

Website: www.moraglione.com

Contact: Nina Newman

Tel: +39 0131 941719

Website: www.tut.ac.za

E-mail: mave@moraglione.com

Tel: +27 (0) 12 382 6007 E-mail: newmann@tut.ac.za

Contact: Katlego Loeto

ORO AFRICA Contact: Gary Nathan

Website: www.kdji.co.za

UNIVERSITY OF JOHANNESBURG

Website: www.oroafrica.com

Tel: +27 (0) 53 831 1570

Contact: Farieda Nazier

Tel: +27 (0) 21 480 9860

E-mail: loetok@kdji.co.za; loetokatlego10@gmail.com

Website: www.uj.ac.za

E-mail: gnathan@oroafrica.com; sharin@oroafrica.com

KIMBERLEY INTERNATIONAL DIAMOND & JEWELLERY ACADEMY Contact: Sherine Herold Tel: +27 (0) 87 310 7683 E-mail: shakes2128@gmail.com; admin@kidja.co.za

Tel: +27 (0) 11 559 1125 E-mail: thator@uj.ac.za; fnazier@uj.ac.za

PNEUMA JEWELLERS FINE JEWELLERY

Contact: Heidi Sheppard Website: www.pneumajewellers .co.za

BADIVINE CREATIONS

Tel: +27 (0) 11 702 1462

Contact: Gift Mosala

E-mail: pneumasales@gmail.com

PROTEA DIAMONDS

MATERIAL SUPPLIERS

Contact: Natasia Roos

Tel: +27 (0) 10 001 9120 E-mail: ayubm@ggda.co.za

Website: www.proteadiamonds.com

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS

Tel: +27 (0) 11 484 7205

Contact: Sharon Eades

E-mail: natasia@proteadiamonds.co.za

Website: www.capepreciousmetals.com

ISIKHOVA PUBLISHING & COMMUNICATIONS

Tel: +27 (0) 21 551 2066

Contact: Andrew Meyer

E-mail: orders@capepreciousmetals. co.za; malcolm@cpmd.co.za

Website: www.isikhova.co.za

PUNTO DIAMANTE (PTY) LTD Contact: Michelle Miller Tel: +27 (0) 11 463 8754 E-mail: mem@absamail.co.za REALGOLD WHOLESALERS Contact: Mike Eriksen-Miller Tel: +27 (0) 11 463 8754 or +27 (0) 82 891 8066 E-mail: mem@absamail.co.za ROMA WHOLESALERS Contact: David Rodrigues Website: www.romagold.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 12 365 2201 E-mail: David@romagold.co.za

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD Contact: Charlotte Crosse Website: www.metcon.co.za Tel: PTA +27 (0) 12 000 4440 CT +27 (0) 21 510 0770 DBN +27 (0) 83 600 2210 E-mail: cpt@metcon.co.za; info@metcon.co.za; michaelv@metcon.co.za; linti@metcon.co.za PEARLS

Tel: +27 (0) 11 883-4627 E-mail: andrewm@isikhova.co.za; sajewellerynews@isikhova.co.za; adsales@isikhova.co.za; sales@isikhova.co.za JEWELLERS' NETWORK Contact: Sancia Mincher Website: www.jewellersnetwork.co.za Tel: + 27 (0) 030 0888 E-mail: sancia@jewellersnetwork.co.za SPECTROMETER TECHNOLOGIES Contact: Mirko Steinhage

NICK THE PEARLMAN T/A UNLIMITED PEARLS

Website: www.us-tech.co.za

Contact: Nick Hasselman

E-mail: info@ustech.co.za

Tel: +27 (0) 21 905 0476

SA JEWELLERY

Website: www.nickthepearlman.co.za

Contact: Peter Fisherman

Tel: +27 (0) 12 804 3701 or +27 (0) 82 893 6444

THE JEWELLERY COUNCIL OF S.A.

E-mail: nickthepearlman@ worldonline.co.za

Website: www.jewellery.org.za

Website: www.sajewellery.co.za Tel: + 27 (0) 11 025 3030 E-mail: info@sajewellery.co.za SPARK CREATIONS Contact: Reuven Gralnik

SERVICES TO THE INDUSTRY

Website: www.sparksa.co.za

SOUTH AFRICAN DIAMOND & PRECIOUS METALS REGULATOR

Tel: +27 (0) 11 326 8164

Contact: Lwazi Nogxina

E-mail: accounts@sparksa.co.za

Website: www.sadpmr.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 11 223 7000

UNGAR BROTHERS CC

E-mail: lwazin@sadpmr.co.za

Contact: Ronald Ungar Website: www.ungarbros.co.za

BLUE NOZE RESOURCES (PTY) LTD

Tel: +27 (0) 11 642-2018 / 19

Contact: Letsielo Podisane

E-mail: ungarbros@worldonline.co.za ungar1@worldonline.co.za

Tel: + 27 (0) 82 631 7619

JEWELLERY DISPLAY & PRESENTATION VORTEIL CC Contact: Phillip Rozenkrantz Website: www.vorteil.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 83 326 6920

E-mail: letsielo@gmail.com

Contact: Lorna Lloyd Tel: +27 (0) 11 484 5528 E-mail: elsad@jewellery.org.za; lornal@jewellery.org.za; admin@jewellery.org.za SILVER JEWELLERY ANNA-B JEWELLERY Contact: Anna Zetler Website: www.annab.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 21 481 1023 E-mail: annab@annab.co.za; janice@annab.co.za IRIS EXCLUSIVE JEWELLERY Contact: Keitumetse Iris Khosana

BRINKS SA (PTY) LTD

Website: www.irisexclusivejewellery.com

Contact: Thuli Ndlovu

Tel: +27 (0) 83 609 2726

Website: www.brinks.com

E-mail: iriskhosana@gmail.com

Tel: +27 (0) 11 334 1793 E-mail: thuli.ndlovu@brinksglobal.com

ITALCHAIN (PTY) LTD Contact: Sofia Costaras

E-mail: phillip@vorteil.co.za GAUTENG INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT ZONE Contact: Ayub Mayet Website: www.gidz.co.za

Website: www.italchain.com Tel: +27 (0) 61 719 1886 E-mail: italchain@gmail.com

MERINGUE JEWELLERY

SOMETHING SPECIAL

Contact: Michele Basson

Contact: Mark Hammerschlag

Website: www.meringuejewellery.com

Website: www.somethingspecial.co.za

Tel: +27 (0) 83 453 1868

Tel: +27 (0) 11 544 1500

E-mail: info@meringuejewellery.com

E-mail: info@somethingspecial.co.za

NQ JEWELLERY DESIGN

VERSITRADE/THE SILVER PEACOCK

Contact: Nqobile Nkosi

Contact: Wenda Baeumont - Currie

Website: www.nqjewellery.co.za

Tel: +27 (0) 82 579 2058

Tel: + 27 (0) 73 700 6225

E-mail: versitrade@worldonline.co.za

E-mail: nq2jewel@gmail.com; nq-jewel@webmail.co.za

TOOLS & EQUIPMENT

Jewellex Africa 2018 sponsors:

PHATSIMA JEWELLERY DESIGNS Contact: Nontando Molefe

CAPE WATCH TOOL & JEWELLERY SUPPLIES

Website: www.phatsimajd.com

Contact: Tennille Hoge

Tel: +27 (0) 83 618 3309

Website: www.capewatch.co.za

E-mail: phatsimantando@gmail.com; orders@phatsimajd.com

Tel: +27 (0) 861 11 5137 E-mail: tkh@capewatch.co.za; cawatch@iafrica.com

PHRONESIS TRAINING ACADEMY Contact: Beauty Magudu

JEWEL TEC

Website: www.phronesistraining.co.za

Contact: Iqbal/Farouk Seedat

Tel: +27 (0) 84 620 7991

Tel: +27 (0) 31 205 5111 or +27 (0) 21 424 6257

E-mail: beauty.mbangula@gmail.com REG AND PHIL JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Contact: Karabo Reginald Jochum Tel: +27 (0) 79 619 4137 E-mail: karaboreginald29@gmail.com REGENCY JEWELLERS EXPORTS Contact: Sanjay Kumar Tel: +91 11 267 91076 E-mail: regencyexports@rediffmail.com SIBAHLE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Contact: Nthabiseng Xaba

E-mail: info @ jeweltec.co.za LIPMAN & SON Contact: Ian Lipman Website: www.lipmanson.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 21 4243371 E-mail: ian@lipmanson.co.za RAPID 3D JV (PTY) LTD Contact: Pauline Bullock Website: www.rapid3d.co.za Tel: +27 11 (0) 624 8000 E-mail: karens@kemtek.co.za; pauline@rapid3d.co.za

Website: www.sibahlejewellery.co.za Tel: +27 (0) 11 049 3933 E-mail: nthabiseng@sibahle jewellery.co.za

Anglo American Platinum Jewellex Africa 2018 cocktail function Brinks Lanyards The Gemmological Institute of America (GIA) Carrier bags Metal Concentrators (Metcon) Metcon coffee shop & JCSA Collection Awards Design Competition B.Y.L. Diamonds Registration Cape Precious Metals (CPM) CPM gin and wine bar & JCSA Collection Awards Design Competition Gemfields Wi-Fi CJR Gift Sales Water bottles Rand Refinery Visitor welcome coffee The Jewellery Hub JCSA Collection Awards Design Competition The Ekurhuleni Jewellery Project JCSA Collection Awards Design Competition Chandler Manufacturers JCSA Collection Awards Design Competition The Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA) R 100 000 visitor cash prize draw The Department of Trade and Industry (dti) Exhibitor sponsorship

The 2018 Buyers’ Guide listings were correct at time of going to print.

For any queries, kindly contact the Jewellery Council of South Africa on tel: (011) 484-5528 or e-mail: elsad@jewellery.org.za. The floorplan will appear in Jewellex Today, the daily newspaper distributed at Jewellex Africa.

Africa’s Premier Jewellery and Watch Exhibition

ROSH HASHANAH GREETINGS Shanah Tovah to all our Jewish customers.

Bassano Gioielli wishes you a joyous and prosperous New Year.

Tel: (011) 704-5667/4164 Fax: (011) 704-4002 Website: www.bassanogioielli.com

UNGAR BROTHERS CC Wishing all our Jewish customers, colleagues and friends Shanah Tovah.

Tel: (011) 642-2018/9 Fax: (011) 642-2016 E-mail: ungarbros@worldonline.co.za Website: www.ungarbros.co.za

May the sound of the Shofar welcome a New Year of happiness, health and love. Shana Tovah to all our Jewish friends, clients and colleagues.

Tel: (011) 418-1600 Fax: (011) 825-4043 E-mail: johan@richlinesa.co.za Website: richlinegroup.com

Jewellery News

SA CJR Gift Sales (Pty) Ltd wishes all its Jewish customers a happy, healthy, prosperous and sweet New Year and well over the fast. Shanah Tovah!

Tel: (011) 257-6000 • E-mail: info@cjr.co.za

Shanah Tovah u’Metukah!

The SA Jewellery News team wishes you a happy and healthy New Year and well over the fast.

Tel: (011) 883-4627 Fax: (011) 783-2677 E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za Website: www.isikhova.co.za

DIAMONDS

Synthetic diamond At temperatures of 800-950 ºC and pressures exceeding 4,5 giga pascals, natural diamonds form deep within the belly of the earth, from 150-800 km below its surface. Since 1945, scientists have been able to duplicate such extreme conditions above ground and have succeeded in producing synthetic, laboratory-grown diamonds. Today, gem-quality synthetic diamonds are entering the supply chain at a rapid rate and jewellers are faced with several dilemmas, says industry expert Dr Petré Prins.

FIRSTLY, SHOULD THEY SELL AND PROMOTE synthetic diamonds? Secondly, for those who choose to sell the natural product, how do they ensure and guarantee that the diamonds they sell are of natural origin? (This issue will be discussed in a subsequent article in next month’s SA Jewellery News.)

Size of the synthetic market In 2014, a study by Bonas and AT Kearney estimated the worldwide production of synthetic diamonds to be about 1,5 million carats before 2020. A recent study by the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council estimated that the laboratory-grown production accounts for only 2% of global diamond output and of that 2%, about 10% is gem quality.

36

Synthetic diamonds: to sell or not to sell?

This is an individual choice. It is neither illegal nor unethical to sell a synthetic or enhanced diamond, or even a diamond imitation such as a cubic zirconia, as long as the nature of the product is fully disclosed. In fact, for many decades, jewellers have been selling synthetic sapphires and rubies with great success. Why not also synthetic diamonds?

The availability of a cheaper diamond alternative is a good thing, as it offers jewellers a new product category with higher margins.

However, I do not believe a retailer should try to sell natural and synthetic diamonds under the same roof or brand name. It may be tempting to offer your clients a choice between an expensive natural or cheaper synthetic

diamond, but your selling process will be much easier if you concentrate on the benefits of one of the two. Also, the risk of swapping natural and synthetics is great, as the naked eye cannot distinguish between the two and it will be some years before every jeweller owns a machine to identify synthetic diamonds. The last thing a jeweller wants is a confused and indecisive client – or, worse, a tarnished reputation by unwittingly selling a synthetic stone as the real thing.

Wholesalers, however, may find it easier to carry a range of synthetic as well as natural diamonds – but keeping the two types separate will be an administrative nightmare.

Positives aspects of synthetic diamonds

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2018

DIAMONDS

The availability of a cheaper diamond alternative is a good thing, as it offers jewellers a new product category with higher margins. However, I do not believe a retailer should try to sell natural and synthetic diamonds under the same roof or brand name.

ds 101 • A new product category for retailers.

• Offering higher profit margins.

• Potential to grow into a large market segment.

• Able to fill shortages in supply where mined diamonds cannot.

• Surmised to be more eco-friendly than mined diamonds (though this is heavily disputed).

• Guaranteed to be “conflict-free”.

• Offering buyers “more bling for the same buck”.

• A fascinating new technology.

Negative aspects of synthetic diamonds • Lack the authenticity of natural diamonds.

• Will be produced at an ever-decreasing cost, thus no store of value.

• Current retail price only 20-25% below that of an equivalent mined diamond.

• A novelty for only a limited period.

• Unregulated and limited supply chain.

• Provides an opportunity for dishonest cutters and traders.

• The high cost of testing machines and their limited availability at the retail level.

• Could cause consumers to lose confidence in all diamonds.

Positive implications for the diamond industry

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2018

The proliferation of synthetic diamonds will force traders in mined diamonds to ensure the integrity of their supply chain. It will also compel miners, cutters and dealers to increase the generic promotion of their product.

Surprisingly, De Beers, the original creator of synthetic diamonds, recently announced that it would be selling a synthetic diamond jewellery range in future. Its Lightbox range will contain only colourless, pink and blue coloured stones selling at $800/total carat weight. By pricing its synthetic product so low, it puts synthetic diamonds where they belong – in a price category separate from that of natural, mined diamonds. This is clever and a good thing for the diamond industry.

The message from De Beers is: synthetics

are for fun and glitter, not to seal a marriage or honour the love of a special woman. The group is protecting its main market and, at the same time, creating a new market segment for jewellers. Current sellers of synthetic diamonds are in trouble, Those jewellers who choose to sell synthetics should do so with integrity, promote them under a unique label and build their businesses on a fascinating new technological product.

Those selling mined diamonds have the opportunity to re-romance their product, to tell the fascinating story of its unique birth and individuality, and to justify its higher price.

Slandering synthetics is foolish and smacks of incertitude. They are here to stay.

37

JEWELLERY

Industry reaches out for Mandela Day Cape Precious Metals (CPM), together with members of the industry, visited NQ Jewellery’s premises in Dube to see how they could help keep the workshop open permanently so that fine jewellery manufacturing and design can continue in Soweto.

ON MANDELA DAY, 18 JULY, CPM VISITED NQ Jewellery’s previous premises in Dube, Soweto to see how the industry could help keep the facility alive for the benefit of emerging jewellers in the area. The refinery invited interested parties to join them on the day to learn about the challenges, meet enthusiastic up-and-coming jewellers and discuss how established businesses can help keep the workshop open permanently, possibly as a heritage tour attraction, since it is close to iconic Vilakazi St. CPM was joined by, among others, representatives from the Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA), the State Diamond Trader and the Ekurhuleni Jewellery Project, who also brought donations of tools.

NQ Jewellery became one of the first brands to manufacture and retail fine jewellery in a township, beating the odds and overcoming many challenges on its journey to success. The business has now outgrown its home there and will be moving to larger premises. Owner Nqobile Nkosi has decided to leave behind some core equipment so that the culture of jewellery manufacturing and design can continue in Soweto. This will give college or university students who do not have working space a facility to practise in on weekends (the only times Nkosi has to supervise emerging jewellers wanting to practise their trade under his guidance).

Nkosi fervently believes that South Africans should know how important buying local jewellery is for job creation. “The MQA

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2018

has trained over 3 000 students, yet less than 5% of them are employed in the industry. The main reason is that 80% of the jewellery sold in SA isn’t made locally. Mining companies and jewellery companies need to create a healthy working relationship to reverse the situation and create jobs in the South African jewellery manufacturing industry,” he says.

“I want to thank CPM and everyone else who was there on the day for supporting small manufacturers in SA. We hope that this will help give a hand up, rather than a hand-out.

We all belong to the industry and we can all play our part to make it grow and create job opportunities. Let’s work together to create a safe and healthy industry for the next generation.”

Jewellery schools, students and freelancers in the area can contact Nkosi on e-mail: nq2jewel@gmail.com about using the space. He also invites any established jewellers to support local upcoming jewellers through mentorship or the contribution of tools.

We hope that this will give a hand up, not a hand-out. We all belong to the industry and we can all play our part to make it grow and create job opportunities for the next generation.

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WATCHES

First-ever hour-strike The hour-strike is a rare Fine Watchmaking complication, and rarer still when it is the product of a fully independent firm, based on an exclusive movement, and created ex nihilo – thus representing a markedly fresh approach.

THE HOUR-STRIKE COMPLICATION IS AN extremely rare member of the strike mechanism family, and the layout used here is quite possibly unique. The mechanism has been revealed, enabling its complexity to be admired. The magic of watchmaking mechanics is embodied by the moving yokes and the engraved hammer that marks out the hours. Two hundred years ago, Louis Moinet’s clocks and pocket watches chimed the hours for leading figures of his day.

Now, his name has been joined with that of Eric Coudray, a great present-day watchmaker, to create a new masterpiece in the same spirit.

The advent of the Ultravox coincides with the 250th anniversary of Louis Moinet’s birth in Bourges in 1768. Throughout his entire life, the inventor of the Compteur de Tierces chronograph, which dates from 1816, made a large number of striking clocks, many of which adorned the drawing rooms of the world’s greatest leaders, from Napoleon Bonaparte to Tsar Alexander I and Presidents of the USA (among them Thomas Jefferson and James Monroe), as well as many others.

Ultravox forges a link between a heritage and the future; between Louis Moinet himself and the Ateliers that are now restoring his renown. Unlike many brands, the Ateliers still have a very large number of clocks made by their namesake, Louis Moinet, in perfect working order. Some of them are at the Ateliers’ premises in Saint-Blaise, Neuchâtel, while others are still in or near the corridors of power they originally graced, for instance at the White House and the Hermitage Museum.

“Having this tangible heritage in our possession has enabled us to design an hour strike that draws inspiration from Louis Moinet, while also being undisputedly rooted in the 21st century,” explains Jean-Marie Schaller. “Moinet was a scientist: a man of precision motivated by fine workmanship. With that in mind, in a world first we decided to lay bare all the mechanics of this grande complication. It’s a natural extension of the watchmaking style that we originally implemented for Memoris, our chronograph watch which, for the first time, revealed all the workings of the chronograph on the dial side. Ultravox goes much further,

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2018

unveiling its entire mechanism. It embodies the Louis Moinet style more than any other timepiece.”

Watchmaker Eric Coudray, winner of the Gaïa Prize – and, in Schaller’s words, “a magician” – is one of the greatest watch designers alive. The Ultravox bears the name of this master and his outstanding team.

The Latin name “Ultravox” (“strong voice”) is a nod to both the sound of the strike mechanism and the neo-classical influences on

is designed to reflect the light and offset the block-polished and chamfered screws above it, showcasing the acoustic mechanism. The rear reveals a system with darkened, parallel double rotors. The first of these serves to generate force for the hours and minutes mechanism, while the second is wholly given over to the chime.

With a diameter of 46,5 mm, the Ultravox is available in a limited edition of just 28 rose gold timepieces.

To enhance the excellence of this creation, for the first time Louis Moinet has unveiled its entire mechanism on the wrist. A special plate had to be designed, including over 50 jewels, to engage the chime mechanism’s various components, whose arrangement is extremely complex.

Moinet, whose clocks portrayed figures such as Minerva, Julius Caesar and Cicero. Only 20 or so pieces will be made a year, since the piece is so complex. The strike mechanism denotes each passing hour on the hour, marking out the appropriate number of chimes. A silencer mechanism also allows the wearer to disengage the chime, if they wish.

To enhance the excellence of this creation, for the first time Louis Moinet has unveiled its entire mechanism on the wrist. A special plate had to be designed, including over 50 jewels, to engage the chime mechanism’s various components, whose arrangement is extremely complex.

The central flirt triggers a system arming the hammer at 12 o’clock and strikes out the hours on a gong arrayed around the movement. The function of the fly, meanwhile, is to channel power from the barrel, regulating the rhythm of the chime.

The Ultravox plate finish in “Moinet blue”

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JEWELLEX AFRICA

Assisting emerging exporters at Jewellex The Department of Trade & Industry (DTI) will once again be sponsoring approximately 20 candidates to exhibit at this year’s Jewellex Africa THE DTI’S EMERGING EXPORTER SCHEME, which aims to assist the development of South African emerging exporters, allows a maximum of 20 exhibitors per trade show who meet the necessary requirements. These requirements are a Valid Tax Clearance Certificate, a company registration certificate, financial statements, a company profile, a brochure and either a BEE certificate or a certified BEE exemption

42

affidavit, for companies with a turnover of R10 million or less (for overseas trade shows, a valid passport and SARS Exporter Certificate are also required.)

The DTI-sponsored stands at this year’s Jewellex Africa, which will take place from 6-8 October, will once again show great variety and will definitely be worth a visit.

The following candidates have been

approved and will be showcasing their products at this year’s show: BaDivine designs and produces authentic jewellery artefacts. Its design styles are based on an Afrocentric contemporary feel, inspired and birthed by everyday life and the spiritual energy in the universe.

Ekurhuleni Jewellery Project (EJP) is a NPO that offers support to SMMEs in the

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2018

JEWELLEX AFRICA

jewellery manufacturing industry by creating a secure and enabling environment to develop their own businesses. The SMMEs have access to machinery, equipment, basic business and technical skills. EJP also offers an industrybased skills training programme which covers the basic skills needed to enter the jewellery industry.

Global Jewellery Academy is a jewellery skills training centre and a jewellery business incubation programme facilitator for persons with disabilities and youth from the disadvantaged communities to become entrepreneurs in the jewellery sector.

Iris Exclusive Jewellery is a change agent in its community in Vanderbijlpark.

It imparts jewellery-making skills to unemployed women, men and youth – including individuals with disabilities – and aims to alleviate poverty and create jobs.

Jenni Gault is an acclaimed international jewellery designer, specialising exclusively in Swarovski crystal and precious metals. This will be her 11th consecutive Jewellex show.

Outclass Crystallized Gems is a diamond-cutting and polishing company situated in the heart of Kimberley, a city which is central to SA’s diamond history.

Previous generations worked tirelessly to build Kimberley into what it is today, but left the present generation with a great task. The aim of Outclass Crystallized is therefore to revive the diamond legacy that once embraced the city by creating jobs for the youth and offering its clients unique

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2018

customer experiences.

Phatsima Jewellery Designs is a specialist in custom-made jewellery, corporate jewellery gifting, wedding rings and CAD designing. With more than 10 years of experience in the industry, it focuses on trading in ethical conduct and clean details.

Pneuma Jewellers achieves excellent results with its super-artisan programme, which teaches students two or more trades. It currently institutes the HiTech Training Hub to deliver specialised training for transformation and localised regeneration of SA’s mass production environment. Pneuma’s primary focus is outcomes-based training in hand skills, presented to international standards. It has the highest number of interns trained in SA and a proven 90% placement of all graduates.

Phronesis Training Academy is a multiple award-winning company in the Northern Cape Province. It prides itself on training unemployed youth and people with disabilities in jewellery-making. Its jewellery is all hand-made, using silver and semi-precious stones commonly found in the Northern Cape.

Reg and Phil Jeweller y is a company based in Kimberley (Kimberley Diamond & Jeweller y Incubator). It offers custom and CAD - designed jeweller y, as well as repairs and polishing of jeweller y.

The company uses gold and silver to make its produc ts.

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MARKETING

Are trade shows worth it?

Absolutely, if planned correctly Exhibitions and trade shows are a unique chance for potential customers to see, touch and experience your product or service first-hand. Nine out of 10 visitors to exhibitions/trade shows have an influence on the buying of their company or organisation. So how does one ensure a successful exhibition?

YOUR COMPANY MIGHT MAKE A WIDE variety of the best jewellery, but at a trade show you are selling yourself: people have to buy your brand identity before they purchase your products.

There are certain formalities to trade shows, but exhibition professionals say success hinges on the strategies used before, during and after the event.

This article does not claim to be the “blueprint” of a successful exhibition, but aims to make readers aware of what is needed in broad terms, while offering tips for getting the most out of an event.

Before the show As with any marketing plan, it is crucial that you identify your objectives. Are you launching a new product, raising the company profile, spreading brand awareness, contacting a new market, re-launching existing products, conducting market research or measuring up the competition? What you want from the show will affect your decisions and how to proceed.

Planning • The earlier you book your stand, the better the position you can secure.

• Work with the fair organisers to secure branding, staff passes, parking, etc.

• Find out what the organisers are doing and

dovetail your marketing with theirs.

• Decide what you want in the form of a stand or shell scheme (mainly provided by the trade fair) or an open space to build your own stand from scratch. This decision is normally based on budget and product.

• Find out about restrictions placed on stand designs by the organisers, ie do not glue things to the walls, respect fire and health regulations, etc.

• When planning your stand, follow the three-second rule: it takes three seconds for a visitor to pass your stand. Make sure they know what you do, notice your stand and have a good reason to visit it.

• Find a “hook” for the stand. Many other companies offer similar products and you need to distinguish yourself so that visitors come to your stand, rather than others.

Visitors love freebies! Stocking your stand with small, branded promotional gifts to give away is an effective way of imbedding your company message in people’s minds long after they have left the show. Other enticements could be as small as giving away sweets, or as significant as special prices on products, give-aways, items never seen before, etc.

• Have training sessions with staff before the show to ensure they are knowledgeable about the products and that they also know how to ask questions that elicit more

than just a “yes” or “no” from clients.

• Prior to the fair, promote your presence at the show on your website, social media and trade publications as widely as possible. It is often assumed that only fair organisers should do this, but in fact, it is up to the industry and exhibitors to spread the word and ensure that customers attend the show and their stand. Press releases to trade publications are also good marketing platforms to get the message out.

• When planning the show, select your best sales people to man your stand for maximum impact.

• Set up meetings with clients at your stand before the show starts.

• Direct mail campaigns that give people a reason to visit your stand – for example, a redeemable gift code is always a good way to attract foot traffic.

During the show This is a critical phase. You have invested good money in your display and human resources, so you need to get the best possible return on investment.

Managing a stand at an exhibition requires organisation and strong attention to detail.

Before the big day, make sure you have ticked all the boxes, including the following: • Good lighting. Dark stands are dead stands.

• Simple, but striking exhibits. Do not

Before the fair

Planning and prepara5on

During the fair

Opera5onal effec5veness

A0er the fair

Follow-up and evalua5on

complicate the message you are trying to

Success or failure is due to these three processes for exhibitors. Evaluate the worth of the show against your objec5ves.

convey. It should be seen and noticed in three seconds.

• Research has shown that over 75% of an exhibition stand’s effectiveness and therefore return on investment comes down to the people manning the stand. Many companies invest in product and stand and then forget the critical element of human interaction.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2018

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MARKETING

• Staff must look professional and keep a rotation schedule. If they stay at the stand for too long without a break, they will become bored and restless, and potential clients might walk away.

• Teach your staff the following body language tips: - Stand up and greet attendees in front of the booth.

- If seats are needed, use tall stools that create contact at standing eye level.

- Smile and make eye contact.

- Speak to trade show attendees, not colleagues.

- Sit down only if you are with a client who also wants to sit down.

- Do not cross your arms or legs and keep your hands out of your pockets.

- Avoid fidgeting and leaning against walls and furniture.

- Be enthusiastic and polite.

- Thank attendees for spending time at the stand when they arrive and leave.

• Ensure the stand is tidy and neat every day.

• Your staff must dress in a way that is professional, but friendly.

• Do not crowd the stand with too many staff.

• Your stand must have adequate space for the volume of traffic you attract.

• No personal belongings or litter should be on the stand in view of visitors.

• Staff must not be allowed to eat at the stand. They should eat their meals at a cafeteria or away from your space.

• Encourage the staff at the stand to have occasional breaks outside, as many exhibition areas can become very stuffy.

• Ensure that you have enough product at the stand. Also, have plenty of business cards and write the name of the show and your stand number on them when giving them to potential clients.

• Do not waste time with visitors who are clearly just viewing the products and are not seriously interested in buying them.

• Make water available for the staff manning the stands. It is easy to become dehydrated and lose concentration without drinking sufficient water during the day.

• Make sure that essentials like pens, order books, staplers, scissors, Velcro, etc are available.

• During the trade fair, update your social media platform with news from the show.

• The best way of collecting data from visitors needs some thought. With visitors having little time to spare at trade shows, they will not want to stand writing down

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What prompted booth visitation across all segments – combined (Source Maqrketech Inc 2010) Reason for visiting

%

Obtain product information

32%

Recognised the name of the company

20%

Happened to pass the stand

20%

Giveaways

17%

Greeted by staff at the stand

13%

In-booth activity

11%

Product demonstration

11%

Wanted to see a representative

10%

Booth appeal

6%

Refreshments/hospitality at the stand

8%

Advertising/promotion

5%

Invitation

1%

their mobile numbers or email addresses.

Instead, have a system that is simple and seamless. There are a number of data management systems available that can be used with a digital tablet or smartphone to keep your data centralised and accessible.

After the show Many people overlook this critical step. Do the following within a week of the event, or you will lose a lot of the value the show offered: • Check to see that all show leads have been followed up.

• Assess the results of show against objectives.

• Evaluate the results against investment.

• Communicate these outcomes to the stand team and thank them for their efforts.

• Contact all the people you met during the trade fair. Send personalised e-mails to thank them for visiting and give them more information about your company and products. Offer a follow-up meeting as well. It is important to do this while everyone still remembers each other.

• Start working on your plans for the next trade show and identify mistakes made during the previous one that you need to avoid. Remember, trade shows are like advertising: you need to be a regular investor to see a return on investment.

Prior to the fair, promote your presence at the show on your website, social media and trade publications as widely as possible. It is often assumed that only fair organisers should do this, but in fact, it is up to the industry and exhibitors to spread the word and ensure that customers attend the show and their stand. Press releases to trade publications are also good marketing platforms to get the message out.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2018

DIAMONDS

When diamonds and art col The De Beers Group, in partnership with Legacy Art Collection, has created a platform for emerging artists to reach a global potential customer base.

WITH UNRIVALLED EXPERTISE ACROSS the diamond value chain, the De Beers Group has been a leader in the exploration, mining, sale and marketing of diamonds since 1888.

In support of the government’s drive to find opportunities for the youth of SA, the De Beers Group is actively driving several initiatives to create platforms for aspiring talent where they can showcase their skills, such as the Shining Light Awards competition and the Enterprise Development project. To this end, the De Beers Group and Legacy Art Collection came up with the idea of finding a juncture where diamonds and the arts collaborate to make a difference in aspiring artists’ lives. “The discussions have been long in the making to refine the idea and ensure that the environment’s conducive for such a collaboration and that every bit of detail has been taken care of,” explains Richard Steenkamp, Senior Sales Manager at De Beers Sightholder Sales South Africa (DBSSSA).

The De Beers Group sells its rough diamonds through two channels: Sightholder Sales and Auction Sales. Sightholder Sales sells around 90% of De Beers’ rough diamonds, by value, via term contracts to customers known as Sightholders, at events called Sights. These customers are among the world’s leading diamantaires and are active in the major diamond centres. Sights

are held 10 times a year in Botswana, Namibia and SA, where customers inspect their rough diamond allocations before deciding whether to purchase them.

is to target primarily artists from previously disadvantaged backgrounds and provide them with infrastructural support so that they can flourish in a highly competitive global marketplace and carve out a niche for African art,” says Steenkamp.

Legacy Art Collection is owned by Sisonke Projects, under the auspices of Mandy Beck. It runs an incubator for up-and-coming artists and nurtures them to a level of independence so that they can generate a sustainable income from their craft.

The selection chosen to be showcased at Sightholder Sales considers the artists’ background, originality, capability and curiosity to grow, as well as saleability based on current trends of their work. “We rotate the artists whose work we showcase to ensure that we reach a broader group of these emerging artists,” says Beck. “The emphasis is on emerging artists who’ve not yet established themselves and are seeking platforms to showcase their work and reach a global potential customer base.

“We showcase predominantly paintings to try to use the space at our disposal optimally. Clients can then, after establishing connection with the artists they like, request different works from them. De Beers’ clients are global companies and they come from overseas locations to do business with the group, so this is a key touch-point for these emerging artists to build a network based on their creations.”

The first showcase, which was held in

We sold a significant number of the

pieces that were on display during the De

Beers’ sales week, and some of these artists certainly made a lasting impression on the

De Beers clients who could not stop talking about the artwork they purchased.

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In partnership with Legacy Art Collection, the De Beers Group is now showcasing the work of young, emerging artists at these Sightholder Sales in South Africa. The purpose of the project is to provide a platform for artists who have the ambition, drive and creativity to access local and international segments in order to establish themselves in the prestigious and competitive global art community. “The aim

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2018

DIAMONDS

llaborate June, was an overwhelming success. “We sold a significant number of the pieces that were on display during the De Beers’ sales week and some of these artists certainly made a lasting impression on the De Beers clients, who couldn’t stop talking about the works they purchased,” says Beck. “Some of the buyers even placed more orders from the artists. We’re proud to have facilitated and created this platform.”

The initiative also has a CSI element to it: a portion of the proceeds goes towards community projects, which De Beers Group and Legacy Art Collection jointly identify, to help make a lasting difference.

One of the artists whose work has been showcased is Thokozani Madonsela, who was born in 1988 in Daggakraal, Mpumalanga. He works as a mural artist, painter and printmaker, specialising in varied media, such as charcoal drawings, paintings and mosaic art. He has participated in a number of group exhibitions, such as the

The initiative also has a CSI element to it: a portion of the proceeds goes towards community projects, which De Beers Group and Legacy Art Collection jointly identify, to help make a lasting difference.

SA Taxi Foundation Art Awards. He has also been involved in special projects and commissions. During the first showcase in June, Madonsela sold six paintings. “Selling them was extremely exciting for me,” he says. “A project like this gives artists a platform to promote their talent and also brings artists closer to people who not only purchase work to decorate their homes, but help spread the word about African art on a global level.”

Madonsela’s artwork is inspired by everything around him. “Living in Johannesburg, one of the busiest cities in SA, there are many stories to tell about politics, social ills, unemployment, etc. My style of painting is inspired largely by comic books and cartoons, which makes it easy for me to engage with the audience.”

Through this project, Madonsela is living his dreams to reach a wider audience. “I don’t want to be just a South African-based artist, but to connect and work with other

artists outside the country and contribute wherever I can.”

Another artist whose work has been showcased is Thonton Kabeya. Kabeya was born in 1983 in the Democratic Republic of Congo and subsequently relocated to work and live in Johannesburg. As a budding artist he was a finalist at his first show in the Fine Art Institute of Lubumbashi, where he emerged as an artist and designer.

Kabeya’s inspiration comes before he starts painting. “When I'm relaxed, I think and when I think, I become motivated.

It is at this stage that I start planning my work.” Kabeya is very grateful for this project. “This initiative is a very supportive platform for young and emerging artists as it provides an opportunity for us to showcase our work to an esteemed international audience.”

The De Beers Group will pilot this initiative for a year with Sisonke Projects and will then evaluate its sustainability going forward.

(Far left): Thokozani Madonsela.

(Above, from left): A painting by Thokozani Madonsela; a painting by Thonton Kabeya.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2018

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BRAND HISTORY

Hero’s watch changes hands Timing in war can be critical. A historic battle of the 19th century was probably timed with a pocket watch belonging to Britain’s greatest naval commander – and this timepiece is still prized two centuries later.

THE PRESTIGIOUS POCKET WATCH, WHICH had been in private hands until it was auctioned

by Sotheby’s in Geneva, belonged to ViceAdmiral Horatio Nelson, who probably used it at one of the greatest naval battles in British history.

It is believed that he carried it during the Battle of Trafalgar, a great victory for the British Royal Navy fought off the southern coast of Spain in 1805. Never before was the role of timing so decisive in determining the outcome of a battle, as Nelson thwarted Napoleon Bonaparte’s attempt to invade Britain by gaining control of the English Channel.

The gold watch, which was sold for US$425 523, was made by Joseph Emery of Charing Cross in London and was originally probably mounted on a gold Albe chain. It was a full hunter.

Nelson was born in 1758 into a moderately prosperous Norfolk family, but as a watch was a luxury item, it is believed that he was unlikely to have purchased it himself. In all probability, it was presented to him by a wealthy admirer to celebrate the British victory over the French fleet in the Battle of the Nile.

He was victorious again against the Danes in the Battle of Copenhagen and, after a brief return to England, took over the Cádiz naval blockade of France in 1805. He lost his right arm at the battle of Santa Cruz of Tenerife.

In that same year, the Franco-Spanish fleet came out of port, culminating in the Battle of Trafalgar, during which Nelson – commanding a fleet of 27 ships against 33 of the combined Spanish and French from his own vessel, the HMS Victory – sent the famous signal: “England expects every man to do his duty.” Prior to the battle, Nelson had instructed his lieutenants to synchronise their watches to his own.

He was mortally wounded by a French musket during the conflict, but lived long enough to register the news that a number of the enemy’s ships had surrendered.

As a result of his triumphs, Nelson became one of Britain’s greatest war heroes. His victory confirmed the supremacy of Britain during the 18th century, thanks to his departure from established naval tactics of the time. Instead of

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2018

In all probability, Nelson’s gold watch was presented to him by a wealthy admirer to celebrate the British victory over the French fleet in the Battle of the Nile. meeting enemy ships head on, he directed his fleet to form a single line of battle parallel to them, while also dividing his smaller force into two columns directed perpendicularly against their combatants. This revolutionary strategy succeeded magnificently.

After his death, his body was speedily taken below the deck and transported back to England, where it lay in state in Greenwich, London. The coffin was ultimately moved to St Paul’s Cathedral, where it was interred in a sarcophagus. Nelson has been memorialised by a number of monuments, including Nelson’s Column in Trafalgar Square and the Nelson Monument in Edinburgh, Scotland. The HMS Victory is today moored in dry docks at Portsmouth, where it is a museum.

Before his death, his watch was retrieved

from his wounded body, along with 18 other prized possessions. It was given to his brother, who then passed it on to his only child, an illegitimate daughter named Horatia, born to Emma, Lady Hamilton. It was probably Horatia who arranged for it to be mounted in its present form as a carriage clock. It was excluded from the other relics, which were subsequently acquired for the nation by the British government and then remained in private hands.

Nelson’s romance with the beautiful Emma, which ended his former marriage, has been well documented. She was given custody of her lover’s belongings – including his watch and a miniature of herself, which he had worn around his neck.

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DIAMONDS

Carats.io and IDEX in joint venture

In finalising their Memorandum of Understanding (MOU), the heads of Carats.io and International Diamond Exchange (IDEX) are uniquely positioned to energise and engage with the international diamond sector FINTECH START-UP CARATS.IO AND ONLINE diamond trading platform, the International Diamond Exchange (IDEX), have announced that they have signed an MOU in terms of which they will co-operate in the areas of data analysis and the development of new financial vehicles for both the diamond industry and general public. These will be based on Carats.io’s Diamond Financial index (DFX) and its CARAT coin, which is the world’s first cryptocurrency fully backed by real diamonds.

As part of the MOU, the two parties agreed that IDEX will serve as an escrow company, supporting Carats.io in its acquisition of diamonds to back the digital CARAT coins that it issues, providing diamond-buying and logistics services from sourcing to vaulting. The diamonds will be acquired from international companies operating on its platform in jurisdictions where cryptocurrency-based diamond trading is sanctioned by law, up to US$120 million worth in the initial stage of the agreement.

In finalising the MOU, the heads of Carats. io and IDEX are uniquely positioned to energise and engage with the international diamond sector. IDEX brings to the table a B2B diamond trading platform with more than 1 500 suppliers

52

The two parties agreed that IDEX will serve as an escrow company, supporting Carats.io in its acquisition of diamonds to back the digital CARAT coins that it issues, providing diamond-buying and logistics services from sourcing to vaulting. and 7 000 professional traders from across the globe, an online pool of 750 000 diamonds and a wealth of financial data gleaned from up-tothe-minute records of actual transactions. The value of Carats.io’s cryptocurrency is linked to daily movements in the DFX index, which is generated without human involvement by a sophisticated proprietary algorithm developed by the company, fed by real-time market data. The diamonds held by Carats.io to back the CARAT coin, as well as the algorithm, are independently audited by international accounting firm Ernst & Young.

“We’re delighted to announce our cooperation with IDEX,” says Eli Avidar President of Carats.io. “Its worldwide reach, excellent

international position and exceptional strength in Antwerp will enhance our business operations, especially since Carats.io is UKregistered. It was built to bridge the traditional economy with the digital economy and, in so doing, provide access to funding and investors that haven’t been part of the diamond and jewellery business.”

“IDEX represents the new economic and technological order which has not only changed the diamond industry’s business environment since 2000, but is also the space in which new solutions can be found. We’re committed to finding and delivering the most innovative solutions possible,” adds Ehud D Cohen, IDEX’s Chairman.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2018

STRAP TECHNOLOGY

Becoming a virtual jeweller With more than 20 years’ experience, Jason Laing has a thorough understanding of the diamond and jewellery sector in SA. He has been involved with the design, manufacturing and marketing process, but is also a whiz at technology. Laing talks about the importance of having an online presence, a new platform called GemDirect and an alloy he has developed for the trade.

WHETHER YOU ARE NEW TO THE TRADE OR have been in the industry for many years, the current outlook of the jewellery industry affects all of us. We are now entering the Fourth Industrial Revolution, which is characterised by a fusion of technologies that is blurring the lines between the physical, digital and biological spheres.

Like the revolutions that preceded it, the Fourth Industrial Revolution has the potential to raise global income levels and improve the quality of life for populations around the world. To date, those who have gained the most from it have been consumers able to afford and access the digital world. Technology has made possible new products and services that increase the efficiency and pleasure of our personal lives. Ordering a cab, booking a flight, buying a product, making

54

a payment, listening to music, watching a film or playing a game – all of these can now be done remotely.

Economists believe that the revolution could yield greater inequality, particularly in its potential to disrupt labour markets.

As automation replaces labour across the entire economy, the net displacement of workers by machines might exacerbate the gap between returns to capital and returns to labour.

This left me thinking where we are heading in the jewellery sector. Entering the field seems harder than ever before and those already in the trade are searching for new ways to reach consumers.

Most entering the jewellery trade do not have the necessary financial resources and gaining experience in the field is based largely on trial and error, but that can be costly. Existing jewellers are set up in a way

that currently works and shifting from this focus leaves many in a state of “analysis paralysis” – extreme fear of possible change.

A new path may be at our fingertips through an open platform called GemDirect which has worked for us for a few years now.

Anyone who is registered in the jewellery field can connect to it on a number of levels that guide either individuals or companies to market on digital platforms so that they do not have to go through steep learning curves. This brings old-school and newschool jewellers closer together. GemDirect has flipped the processes of the jewellery field onto one where everyone “speaks the same language” through a digital platform.

It opens doors for jewellers who feel they are losing their grip on technology, allowing them to collaborate more closely with jewellers who have been raised on

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TECHNOLOGY

new technologies and are entirely au fait with them.

Many of us are familiar with most of the social media networks. However, most of us have no idea how to turn those platforms into revenue-generating routes to market. GemDirect has introduced a virtual incubation hub which is the starting point for members to enter into this closed group. There are no set-up or subscription fees, so members can start up a feasible jewellery business without having to put down large sums of money.

Once you have joined the GemDirect Facebook group (which is a closed one), it will give you a free platform to get started.

Free tutorials guide you through the fundamentals of setting up an online store and the different retail platforms to which you can connect, besides having your own e-commerce store.

If you have limited or even no stock to sell as you are entering the industry, GemDirect can provide you with free digital professional images of stock which can then link back to production processes to suit you and your customers’ requirements.

This will allow you to acquire a substantial number of marketable product offerings, giving your online presence considerable depth so that your immediate impression on your clients is one which starts to drive sales.

The big advantage of this process is that it gets you up and running while you build up a stock offering of your own. What is more, while many jewellers are battling to keep up with the costs of running physical shop premises and cannot afford products made to international standards, you can obtain these products as an online retailer and do not need a physical outlet for your business. You can buy top-quality merchandise at industry-rated prices and market it even without waiting for its arrival.

You will also have access to thousands of certified diamonds, both from around the

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world and locally, so your product offering will increase even if it is based on loose stone supply. This is all kept under strict control and security, along with secure payment processes and distribution.

So even if you are an existing diamond dealer or wanting to sell certified stones, you can do so through this platform. It will also include the gemstone market, enabling local and international companies to bring you the best deals without your having to search for them on your own.

By having these links along with the tutorial training, you will be able to access other online platforms, thus growing and strengthening your brand.

What about those who still want to sell tangible products through a store, but also want to link it back to an online platform – but do not have the money or resources to hold expensive stock?

I recently developed an alloy that can be cast as a demonstration jewellery piece which has a security signature in the metal, along with a thermo-reaction to it, should it be stolen. The alloy will contaminate any other metal with which it is mixed, allowing refineries to detect it and where it is from.

The metal also has a low melting point, so it will physically melt in your hand should it be held for 10-15 minutes, thus rendering it useless as a jewellery item for daily wear.

This alloy now allows the demonstration jewellery to be made from the same files which are linked to your online sales platform, so you can sell tangible jewellery through jewellery stores or boutiques where customers can try on the items and then choose what metal they want the piece to be made of. They can also choose the stone size or type to suit their budget – all based off the code linked to the demonstration piece. Thus, for the first time in the jewellery sector, customers can try on a piece they have seen online to suit their budget and have it delivered to them when it is ready, considerably reducing the security risk to themselves and the jewellery store.

This begs the questions: are we about to see a fundamental shift in the way jewellery retail works? Are we ready to change the way we currently run our businesses? Are we ready to become virtual jewellers?

Many of us are familiar with most of the social media networks. However, most of us have no idea how to turn those platforms into revenue-generating routes to market.

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INTERNATIONAL SYMPOSIUM

Second World Emerald Symposium announces high-stakes participants The Second World Emerald Symposium (2WES) follows this year after the overwhelming success of the first event held in Bogotá, Colombia, in October 2015.

DEVOTED ENTIRELY TO THE WORLD OF emeralds, 2WES will be held from 12-14 October 2018 at the new Grand Hyatt Hotel in Bogotá.

The symposium organisers have confirmed the attendance of delegates from 25 nations and the participation of eight emeraldproducing countries: Afghanistan, Brazil, Colombia, Ethiopia, Madagascar, Pakistan, Russia and Zambia.

This important event is organised by Fedesmeraldas – the Colombian Emerald Federation – with the support of the Emerald Producers’ Association (APRECOL), the Emerald Exporters’ Association (ACODES) and the Emerald Dealers’ Association (Asocoemeral), along with the Ministry of Mines. Among the special sponsors are Mineria Texas Colombia (MTC/Muzo), Emeraldas de Santa Rosa (Cunas Mine) and Fura Gems (Cosquez Mine).

The event will address the challenges and opportunities faced by the emerald industry, with presentations by more than 60 speakers and experts, panel discussions, working groups and hands-on training.

Topics at 2WES will focus mainly on the challenges relating to mining and geology, gemmology and laboratory testing, harmonisation of colour names and practices, consumer education and awareness, corporate

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social responsibility, traceability, compliance, ethics, sustainability, branding and marketing, along with discussions on new technologies, such as blockchain, that are impacting the emerald industry.

Among the world-renowned international speakers are representatives from the Organisation for Economic Co-operation & Development (OECD), the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), the Dubai Multi-Commodities Centre (DMCC) and those from global luxury brands such as Van Cleef & Arpels.

The world’s major trade associations will also be in attendance, including the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA), the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO), the Thai Gem & Jewelry Traders’ Association (TGJTA), China’s National Gemstone Testing Centre (NGTC), the Gemstone Association of China (GAC), India’s Gem & Jewellery Export Council (GJEPC) and many more. The world’s foremost gemmological laboratories will also be represented.

For lovers of adventure and discovery, mine tours have been organised to visit Colombia’s three important mining areas.

Colombia, located on the continent of South America, is the country that mines and produces the most emeralds for the global market. It is estimated that Colombia accounts

for 70-90% of the world’s emerald market.

While commercial-grade emeralds are quite plentiful, fine and extra-fine quality emeralds are extremely rare. Colombian emeralds over 50ct can cost much more than diamonds of the same size.

The eastern portion of the Andes, between the Boyacá and Cundinamarca departments, is where most Colombian emeralds are mined. The three major mines in Colombia are Muzo, Coscuez and Chivor. Muzo and Coscuez are on long-term leases from the government to two Colombian companies, while Chivor is a privately-owned mine. Muzo remains the most important emerald mine in the world to date.

The terms “Muzo” and “Chivor” do not always refer to the particular mines that carry the same name. Rather, they originate from the local indigenous language, often describing the quality and colour of emeralds.

“Muzo” refers to a warm, grassy-green emerald, with hints of yellow. “Chivor”, on the other hand, describes a deeper green colour.

There are also many other smaller emerald mines in Colombia which produce stones of different grades, but these are usually of lower quality than the ones extracted from any of the three major mining areas.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2018

BRAND MANAGEMENT

Longines’ Record collection Longines has dressed up its Record collection by adding 18ct rose gold and two-tone steel and 18ct rose gold versions.

Previously, this line was only available in stainless steel. There are also many size options to choose from, making them suitable for both men and women. A variety of dials, including diamond options, and a choice of several straps complete the expanded selection.

The traditional elegance of the Record is combined with a modern, elite movement that is COSC-certified as a chronometer. The automatic calibre features a silicon balance spring, a lightweight material that is corrosionresistant, anti-magnetic and unaffected by normal temperature variations and atmospheric pressure. Bestowed with a high degree of added value, these certified “chronometers” now join the ranks of truly exceptional timepieces.

The 26 mm and 30 mm models are available with an automatic calibre L592.4 (ETA A20.L11)

COSC-certified movement featuring 22 jewels.

These models vibrate at 18 800 vib/h (4 Hz) and have a 40-hour power reserve. The 38,5 mm and 40 mm models feature an automatic calibre L888.4 (ETA A31.L11), COSC-certified movement with 21 jewels which vibrate at 25,200 vib/h (3.5 Hz) and have a 64-hour power reserve. All models are water-resistant to three bars.

Longines has been based at Saint-Imier in Switzerland since 1832. Its watchmaking expertise reflects a strong devotion to tradition, elegance and performance. Longines has generations of experience as the official timekeeper of world championships and as a partner of international sports federations. Known for the elegance of its timepieces, Longines is a member of the Swatch Group Ltd, the world’s leading manufacturer of horological products.

With the winged hourglass as its emblem, the brand has outlets in over 150 countries.

Patek Philippe unveils new chronograph For almost 10 years, Patek Philippe has been offering women timepieces that are both elegant and striking – high-quality chronographs with classic architecture, featuring a columnwheel and horizontal coupling. The Geneva manufacture has now unveiled a new addition to its collection: the 7150/250R chronograph.

Its once cushion-shaped case has been redesigned and is now round, in 18ct rose gold, graced with 72 diamonds set into the bezel.

The silvered opaline dial subtly evokes a vintage spirit that is understated and timeless. At once contemporary and classic, this timepiece features hours, minutes, 30-minute counters, small seconds and chronograph functions, all powered by the CH 29-535 PS calibre, a handwound mechanical movement.

In homage to the tradition of classic chronographs, Patek Philippe has endowed its timepiece with a pulsometric scale that can measure the rhythms of an active life or the beating of the wearer’s heart.

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BRAND MANAGEMENT

Gucci’s G-Frame Gucci has extended the G-Frame watch collection with a new size and a variety of styles that combine the house’s design codes with contemporary detailing.

Highlights include a range of versatile new sizes with interchangeable straps. Featuring two different finishes, the cases of these watches are enhanced by delicate snakeskin straps, offered in a range of additional colours to match the mother-of-pearl dials. A yellow gold PVD variant with a cream, red and blue Sylvie House web mother-of-pearl dial, for example, comes with a textured brown snakeskin strap, which can be exchanged with a palette of alternative snakeskin straps, each finished with a yellow gold PVD ardillon buckle.

Steel mesh, web nylon and patterned straps are also available. In addition, another 21 x 34 mm model brings together a steel case with a green, red and green mother-of-pearl dial with signature Gucci bee indexes.

Gucci Timepieces has been designing, developing and manufacturing iconic watches since the early 1970s. Taking advantage of the worldwide recognition of the Florentine house – and its unique duality in brand positioning, pairing modernity and heritage, innovation and craftsmanship, trendsetting and sophistication – Gucci Timepieces is one of the most reliable and consistent fashion watch brands, with a clear design approach and positioning.

Made in Switzerland, Gucci watches are recognised for their design, quality and craftsmanship and are distributed worldwide through the exclusive network of directly operated Gucci boutiques and selected watch distributors. Since January 2010, Gucci Timepieces has also been distributing the Gucci Jewellery collections, capitalising on the expertise gained in the watch sector and leveraging the synergies between the watch and jewellery industries.

Cutting-edge technology IWC of Schaffhausen has revived a forgotten dial design – a calibre which features intricate mechanics with sophisticated digital display and with a 60-hour power reserve.

The IWC-manufactured calibre features a tourbillon with a calendar. The dial characteristic features a complex lacquering process on a white or blue dial. This 150-year anniversary limited edition is presented in an 18ct, 45 mm x 15,3 mm red gold case.

Despite its large size, the case has a thin bezel and elongated, but curved lugs – and the recently updated box sapphire on top. The movement is based on the movement of the Portuguese Retrograde.

This newly-developed calibre 51950 is an extension of a previous calibre, with the addition of the perpetual calendar. The movement is composed of 82 individual components and weighs just 0,635 g. The tourbillon is positioned at the 12 o’clock mark, alongside a complicated and integrated moon phase; the month display is at 6 o’clock. A solid gold rotor, along with an automatic winding system, generates a power reserve of seven days. Only 50 pieces of this limited edition have been made.

This is the first time in watchmaking history that the combination of a perpetual calendar

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2018

and a tourbillon have been combined on a dial, according to the manufacturer, and it marks an important anniversary of the brand.

In effect, two complicated watches have been merged into one. Notwithstanding this mix of movements, the watch maintains the brand’s signature element of legibility, with stylised Arabic numerals, a railroad minute track and leaf hands for the hours.

The brand was started in Schaffhausen

in 1868 in the traditional area of Swiss watchmaking – the Jura – by its American founder, Florentine Jones, an engineer and watchmaker of a leading Boston watch and clockmaker. He was an adventurous, pioneering spirit who aimed to combine Swiss craftsmanship with modern engineering technology and focused on manufacturing his pocket watches using hydropower sourced from the nearby Rhine River.

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LITTLE GEMS

Australia is responsible for more than 90% of the world’s high-quality pink diamonds. Fewer than 1% of these diamonds are graded this colour by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA).

These diamonds achieve high prices at auctions. An impressive collection in 2013 featured stones ranging from 0,20-3,92ct, as well as three fancy red stones which sold well above initial predictions. The Argyle Phoenix, a 1,56ct graded fancy red, fetched the highest price ever for a gem from the Argyle mine.

Argyle, located in Kimberley, south-west of Darwin and about 550 m south of Lake Argyle, is the largest open-pit construction about 50 ha wide and about 600 m deep. Except for alluvial operations, it is the largest successful commercial diamond mine located in the Kimberley volcanic pipe, in which the diamonds found were the result of volcanic eruptions. They have been traced back about 150 billion years.

Argyle is the fourth-largest mine in the world by volume average production since operations began in 1983. In March this year, its estimated One Reserves decreased, as it mined just 5 million last year.

This may have given rise to the speculation that the flow of these special stones will end, particularly if prices of the more commercial gems do not improve. The majority of Argyle’s production is of lower-quality stones of under 0,15ct, which are reportedly used in promotional jewellery – bracelets and pendants, the prices of which have declined in the past few years.

Looking ahead, the company officially targeted 2020 for its closing, but it seems that current prices have persuaded the owners to keep the mine open and ultimately develop it into an underground operation. The mine is famous for its fancy pink, red and other colour diamonds, such as champagne and brown, which were graded by the GIA. In 1994, 42 million carats were produced when operations peaked. The average annual was 8 million carats. The open-pit mine has produced over 750ct of rough diamonds.

An underground block cave has been under development and is likely to extend production until 2018. However, in the late 1990s, the north-west wall of the open pit began to collapse and it was decided to cut back part of it to free up the southern part.

So the next time someone dismisses Australia as a huge backwater, stop them: it is the source of much of the world’s most valuable and beautiful culture and natural wonders – including gemstones.

Gems from Down Under Far from the rough and ready wasteland many people assume Australia to be, it has yielded some of the world’s most valuable and beautiful gems, writes Alice Weil.

OPAL IS A COLOURFUL stone in which the play of iridescent colour flashes change with the angle at which the stone is viewed – a phenomenon known as opalescence. The play of colour may consist of large, individual flashes of colour or constitute tiny, dense flashes. The distribution and intensity of these are determining factors in the value of the opal.

The play of colour surpasses that of most gemstones and includes shades of white, purple, grey and even black. There are a variety of forms of this colourful gem and it is available as precious opal and common opal. Precious opal is identified by the internal display of colours, as created by the play of light. The smooth surface of the stone can be pearly or waxy.

Peruvian opal – often known as blue opal – is semi-opaque, opaque or blue-green and does not display a play of colour, while fire opal has a warm body of colours of yellow to orange, while sometimes displaying bright green flashes. These flashes and their distribution determine the value of the stone.

Peruvian opal is generally associated with the small town of Coober Peddy, a major source

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of the gem in southern Australia. In 1956 the world’s largest and most valuable stone was found in the “Eight M field”, weighing 17 000ct. About 250 km west of Coober Peddy, large quantities of crystal opal have also been found, as well as the rarer black opal, matrix opal and crystal opal. Black opal contains a predominantly dark background play of colour.

In western Queensland in northern Australia, boulder opal has been found, a variation which consists of fracture fillings in a dark ironstone mat.

Australia also has opalised fossil remains, including dinosaur bones, in New South Wales.

Until the opening up of the Australian fields in the 19th century, opal was considered very rare and valuable. Its primary known source until then was the Roman frontier of Slovakia.

There were some other sources too, but the stones there occurred in very thin layers. Many varieties have been synthesised commercially since the discovery in 1974 of the ordered sphere structure of precious opal.

The varieties of opal have been symbolised in experiments and commercially, but the resulting material can be distinguished under the microscope from the natural gem and there are various other properties discernible.

The Argyle Diamond Mine in western

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – SEPTEMBER 2018