SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • October 2019

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Jewellery News

SA

Celebrating 91 years of serving the diamond and jewellery industry

• 20 South African companies exhibit at JA New York • Young Diamantaires visit Venetia Mine and Mapungubwe in Limpopo • AI not a key focus for marketers

OCTOBER 2019

Sterling Silver

SHOWROOM BY APPOINTMENT ONLY Parkhurst Johannesburg Juanita Duncan 073 168 3761 • Zeynep Gursesler 081 842 2572 Email address: zeju.leggings@gmail.com Instagram: zeju.jewellery All our jewellery is Sterling Silver with the options of Rose Gold Plated, Yellow Gold Plated, Black Rhodium Plated or simply leave it Silver.

WE DO WHOLESALE ORDERS

PlatAfrica 2019 platinum jewellery (Below, from top): Anke Van der Linden (Student category); Marinus Verster (Student categoty); Nihal Shah (Professional category) and Esther Boshoff (Professional category).

(Above, from top): Aimee Bredenkamp (Professional category); Mandlenkosi Moses None (Professional category); Jane Schoeman (Student category) and Nomsa Mpinga (Student category).

(Below, from top): Mfundo Nondyola (Student category); Joanne Vanden Berg (Student category); Mandisa Zinhle Nkabinde (Student category) and Kgomotso Mashego (Student category).

(Above, from top): Chris Janse van Rensburg (Professional category); Christina Toros (Student category); Michelle Fang-Yu Liao (Professional category) and Reply Baloyi (Student caetegory).

y competition finalists announced

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elebrating its 20th year of encouraging professional jewellers, students and apprentices in South Africa to design and manufacture statement jewellery pieces in platinum, 16 finalists have been selected in the two divisions of this year’s prestigious PlatAfrica competition.

Hosted annually by Anglo American Platinum in partnership with Metal Concentrators and Platinum Guild International (PGI) India, PlatAfrica is a market development initiative aimed at promoting innovation and technical expertise in platinum jewellery. While South Africa is by far the world’s largest producer of platinum, it only contributes a very small portion to global platinum jewellery production.

“PlatAfrica is one of our flagship initiatives to position platinum as the jewellery metal of choice. Over the years, our various efforts have contributed to establishing and growing platinum jewellery demand in China and India.

Today, these are two key global platinum jewellery markets,” said Chris Griffith, CEO of Anglo American Platinum. “The competition has also allowed hundreds of South African jewellery designers over the years to gain experience working with platinum.”

The professional and student & apprentice categories were adjudicated by two separate panels of judges. The finalists were selected based on the quality and aesthetics of their design and manufacturing skills with the metal,

which requires greater craftmanship than other precious metals like gold and silver.

“PlatAfrica offers a great opportunity for budding and professional jewellers in South Africa to work with platinum. For many students, it will be their first experience of working with the metal before they step into the professional world,” said Pallavi Sharma, head of strategic design and development at PGI’s India office, and convenor of the judging panels.

Building the market for platinum jewellery PlatAfrica forms a vital part of Anglo American Platinum’s market development strategy, which aims to build the demand for platinum group metals (PGMs) globally.

From a platinum perspective, Anglo American Platinum is one of the funders of PGI, a marketing organisation that was created in 1975 to develop the global platinum jewellery market. Since then, platinum jewellery has contributed an estimated 80 million ounces of demand, according to the PGI. The organisation focuses largely on growing demand in Japan, which has the highest per capita consumption of platinum jewellery in the world, China, the world’s biggest market for platinum jewellery, and the US. In India, the world’s fastest-growing major market for platinum jewellery, Anglo American Platinum is the sole funder of PGI’s activities.

The expectation is that the Indian platinum jewellery market, which accounted for 170,000 ounces of demand in 2018 according to Johnson Matthey research, will continue to see significant growth and has the potential to reach half a million ounces within a few years. Overall, platinum jewellery accounted for about 2.4 million ounces of total platinum demand in 2018, slightly lower than Anglo American Platinum’s platinum sales last year.

In addition to jewellery, platinum is also used in the automotive sector to reduce emissions from internal combustion engines, in a variety of industrial applications, and as

About the competition: The theme for PlatAfrica 2019 is “Your love has gone platinum – celebrate the milestones in this journey of love”.

Platinum has been symbolic of love due to its intrinsic qualities of being precious, eternal, pure and rare, and entrants were tasked with designing a statement piece for an urban customer of between 20 and 40 years of age, male/female, celebrating a milestone occasion.

The judges provided a number of design expectations to guide entrants: • Less is more, yet be a statement piece; • Look at creating modern heirlooms which will hold special meaning for the wearer for a lifetime and will never date; • Design hooks are cursors; explore new stories and expressions; and • Create a strong narrative for the creation.

In terms of the competition, Anglo American Platinum loans up to 20g of platinum metal to students, and up to 100g to professional jewellers for the design of their pieces. While other materials may be used in the design, platinum must form the core of the jewellery piece.

All pieces must be original, and entries included a short essay articulating the design, sketches or computer-aided design (CAD) drawings. Scrap or filing from the manufacturing process also had to be submitted. A maximum 5% platinum metal loss by mass is tolerated.

Metal Concentrators (MetCon), a PlatAfrica partner, handles all metal applications and returns.

The winner of the professional category will take home R20,000, while the top student/apprentice wins

an investment product. An exciting new potential growth area for platinum is hydrogen fuel cells, which are increasingly seen as a viable, environmentally-friendly power source for heavy-duty vehicles such as trucks and buses.

R16,000. The winners may also be considered to participate in PGI India’s design sourcing process in 2020.

This year’s finalists are: •

Professional category: Esther Boshoff & Team; Aimee Bredenkamp; Chris Janse van Rensburg; Mandlenkosi Moses None; Michelle Fang-Yu Liao; Nihal Shah & Thembi Maduna

•

Student/apprentice category: Reply Baloyi; Kgomotso Mashego; Nomsa Mpinga; Mandisa Zinhle Nkabinde; Mfundo Nondyola; Jane Schoeman; Christina Toros; Joanne van den Berg; Anke van der Linden; Marinus Verster

The winners will be announced at an awards dinner on Wednesday, 23 October 2019 at the Inanda Club in Johannesburg.

Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za Publisher: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za Watch Editor: Alice Weil Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182 E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za

c ntents

Advertising Sales: Ian Starnes Cell: 082-052-8428 E-mail: ian@isikhova.co.za

9. NEWS • 20 South African companies exhibit at JA New York

Advertising Sales Representative (India): Bhupal Potdar Cell: 91-982-115-1035 Email: bhupalpotdar@gmail.com

• Celebrities fund new custom jewellery platform • Martin Rapaport urges US$1 billion marketing spend

Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong): Maud Errera E-mail: maud@lni.com.hk

• Pandora relaunches to attract younger audience

Designer: Joanne Brook Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677 E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za

30. TECHNOLOGY Technological solutions for sustainability spotlighted at the CIBJO-IEG seminar at the VicenzaOro September show

32. INSPIRATION Climbing mountains to move mountains

Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution

37. BUSINESS MANAGEMENT

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd, PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010, Johannesburg, South Africa.

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AI not a key focus for marketers

38. BRAND MANAGEMENT

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• Patek Philippe’s releases ref 5172G chronograph • TAG Heuer’s Autavia

14. DIAMONDS

• Jaeger-LeCoultre main sponsor of 76th Venice International Film Festival of la Biennale di Venezia

Young Diamantaires visit Venetia Mine and Mapungubwe in Limpopo

17. EDUCATIONAL SUPPLEMENT 27. BUSINESS BAROMETER

Official Journal of the Jewellery Council of South Africa and the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa.

Websites: www.jewellery.org.za www.ddcsa.co.za The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2019. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

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Courtesy the De Beers Group

A monthly survey conducted by SA Jewellery News among industry players (small and large) on a national basis

29. THE PERFORMANCE CATALYST Nigel Smith, a results catalyst, aims to help people and businesses achieve goals by equipping them to innovate, relate, sell, coach and lead

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Jewellery News

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Celebrating 91 years of serving the diamond and jewellery industry

OCTOBER 2019

40. LITTLE GEMS Fashion is fickle

On the cover JPPE Lapidary Pty Ltd is an innovative jewellery manufacturer which has been in business for 53 years. It specialises in coloured gemstones, diamonds and African jewellery and has one of the largest ranges of tanzanite jewellery in South Africa. All jewellery is made in South Africa to the tastes of both the tourist and local market. JPPE Lapidary is a proud

• 20 South African companies exhibit at JA New York • Young Diamantaires visit Venetia Mine and Mapungubwe in Limpopo • AI not a key focus for marketers

supporter of the South African economy. Contact JPPE on tel: (021) 424-7764 or visit: www.jppe.co.za.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2019

ED'S NOTE

Editor's THE SA JEWELLERY News team has been brainstorming ways to add even more value to the magazine for our readers and is thrilled to introduce our eight-page pullout educational supplement. This supplement will appear in every issue from now on and will contain extracts from industry expert, Dr Petré Prins’s book, Gems and Gemmology: The South African Handbook. This book is used by many tertiary institutions in its jewellery design departments and other industry training bodies and because of its wide range of industry topics and the effortless way it reads, I have no doubt our readers will benefit greatly from it.

We are on a mission to offer our readers even more and I therefore invite you to e-mail me and share your ideas on how we can achieve this.

Eighteen months ago, SA Jewellery News was approached by the Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA) to conduct a monthly survey, with results published on a monthly

basis in the magazine. The aim of the survey is to get a feel for what is happening at the retail front, as there is no other statistical information available for the industry in SA. A number of industry players have agreed to supply us with their figures on a monthly basis. However, in order for the survey to be as accurate as possible, we ask those who are not already part of this initiative to kindly supply us with their details so that we can add them to our monthly questionnaire mailing list. We are not asking for numbers, but rather percentages and all information supplied is treated as strictly confidential. The survey will be conducted among retailers, manufacturers, wholesalers and diamond traders.

On 5 September I was fortunate enough to be one of six international journalists who accompanied a group of Young Diamantaires from various countries on a tour to Venetia in Limpopo. I’ve been with SA Jewellery News for 15 years now and have never had the opportunity to visit a diamond mine before.

For me, visiting the biggest diamond mine in SA and De Beers’ last operating mine in the country was not only a privilege, but a truly unforgettable experience. I know the Young Diamantaires found it as fascinating as I did and I hope you enjoy the three-page feature with photos from the trip.

This issue also includes feedback and photos from JCSA CEO Lorna Lloyd’s trip to New York, where she accompanied 20 SMME companies from SA to exhibit at the JA New York Show

Jewellery Biz-News is an electronic newsletter that is emailed weekly to subscribers both in South Africa and overseas. It covers hard-hitting breaking news about what is happening within the international diamond and jewellery industry at the touch of a button.

ADVERTISING THAT WORKS! Place your banner on Jewellery Biz-News to get your message across. A half size banner advertisement costs R735, while a full size banner costs just R930 per insertion.

TO SUBSCRIBE: email thuli@isikhova.co.za and put “Subscribe Biz-News” in the subject line.

TO ADVERTISE: contact Ian Starnes on ian@isikhova.co.za or (011) 883-4627.

from 9-14 August at the Javits Convention Centre. Also in this issue, Angela Yeung – award-winning jewellery designer and founder of Impilo Collection – shares her Kilimanjaro summit with readers. Yeung, for whom this was the second climb of Kilimanjaro – has a passion for uplifting the lives of disadvantaged people in SA and is a supporter and contributor to various charities. The expedition (titled “Climb for Dignity and Social Justice”), which included Thuli Madonsela, who served as SA’s Public Protector from 2009-2016, reached the rooftop of Africa on 9 August to commemorate Women’s Day. The objective was to raise funds for the Caring4girls menstrual hygiene programme and TREK100, under the umbrella of the Imbumba Foundation, a joint initiative with the Nelson Mandela Foundation.

I hope these features make you feel part of these initiatives and inspire you as much as they inspire the SAJN team. If our industry also takes you on exciting adventures, please share them with us.

As I write this, Jewellex Africa 2019 is less than three weeks away. I look forward to seeing you all there and have no doubt that this year’s show will be one to remember.

Happy reading!

Adri Viviers

MESSAGE FROM THE CEO

Message from the CEO of the Jewellery Council of SA Professional Retail Skills Certificate A NEW PROJECT HAS BEEN INITIATED TO recognise skills of retail staff which we are calling the "Professional Retail Skills Certificate".

We acknowledge that so much informal training takes place in the retail environment and this "Certificate" gives formal recognition by both the employer and the Jewellery Council of SA and benefits both the employee and the employer.

The Jewellery Manufacturers' Association of SA developed various technical skills qualifications for the manufacturing sector some two years ago. This has been extremely well received.

To most people the title and description of the qualification won’t matter, but to the person that only knows that one job, this is important as it gives him/her a sense of achievement and pride to have this acknowledgement.

Examples of the proposed skills identified include Knowledge of Precious Metals Including Silver, Diamond Classifications, Valuations including costings, Quotations, Costings and Pricing, Watches and Clocks, Gemstones and Gem Families, Pearls, Sales, Security as well as

Knowing Your Industry.

The process will work as follows: once the employer is confident that the employee is proficient in any one of the above skills, he may apply to the Jewellery Council by completing an application form. A Committee will be elected to approve applications received.

Once approved, the Jewellery Council will issue a Certificate to be signed by the Council and employer.

The concept is as follows: assume a person works behind the counter in a retail store at Employer A. Employer A then decides to recognise her skills by means of issuing her the Professional Retail Skills Certificate, in association with the Jewellery Council. It is therefore understandable that Employer B will be satisfied to employ her with her skills, given that Employer A is a member of the Council and has a good reputation in the industry.

This process has been developed to cut out red tape and relies on honesty, ethics and good reputation of our members.

If you are an expert in a specific retail field and would like to get involved in the development of any of the above skills for the retail sector or would like to propose an additional

skill that you believe should be recognised, then please contact me and I will gladly send through more information. The input required from you as an expert is to assist in documenting the skills that will be required by an employee to qualify for a certificate. All input will be circulated as a working document for input by a retailers panel.

Please contact me on lornal@jewellery.org. za or my PA on elsad@jewellery.org.za should you wish participate.

Lorna Lloyd Chief Executive Officer

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NEWS

20 SOUTH AFRICAN COMPANIES EXHIBIT AT JA NEW YORK SHOW The Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA) received approved funding from the Department of Trade & Industry (DTI) to take 20 SMME companies to exhibit at the JA New York Show from

9-14 August. which was held at the Javits Convention Centre in New York. Accompanying the companies was JCSA CEO Lorna Lloyd.

Running concurrently with the JA New York Show was the New York Now Show, which is a giftware event. Visitors to both the shows were able to filter through to either of them.

This was the first time that South Africa has participated at JA New York. “Our aim for 2020 is to send the fashion jewellery exhibitors to the New York Now Show in February and

the fine jewellery companies to JA New York in August,” says Lloyd.

A further delegation will be accompanied to the JIS Miami Show in October. “The American market is beneficial for South Africa, as the current AGOA Agreement allows free trade without duties and taxes between them,” explains Lloyd.

The JCSA will also facilitate funding from the DTI for 20 companies to exhibit at the Bijorhca Paris Show in September.

MARTIN RAPAPORT URGES US$1 BILLION MARKETING SPEND Martin Rapaport, Chairman of the Rapaport Group, has called for more effective marketing of diamond jewellery and a US$1 billion global campaign promoting natural-diamond engagement rings.

Speaking at the 18th Paris Gemmological Rendezvous on 9 September, Rapaport said current generic marketing efforts did not go far enough. Miners, supported by brands, needed to step up to the plate to reach out to consumers in a fast-changing society.

The campaign would need to appeal to

the emotional and ethical values of natural diamonds and should embrace recycling in a more environmentally sensitive world, Rapaport added at the one-day conference organised by the French Gemological Association (AFG). “Why do people buy diamonds?

They’re symbols of committed love and a store of value,” he told a packed audience of industry leaders and gemmologists.

Rapaport highlighted the tightening gap between rough and polished diamond prices, squeezing the profitability of manufacturing.

“We need a bigger pie,” he observed, referring to a need for more tailored global marketing to drive consumers to spend more on diamond jewellery.

He also voiced concerns about the potential impact of the USA-China trade war on the global economy. India, the world’s biggest supplier of polished diamonds, was unlikely to benefit in the near term from increased diamond jewellery sales to the American market in the wake of reduced competition from tariff-hit China, he noted. – Rapaport

NEWS

HOWARD SACKSTEIN GUEST SPEAKER AT JEWELLEX AFRICA 2019 BUSINESS BREAKFAST This year’s guest speaker at the Jewellex Africa Business Breakfast, sponsored by Rand Refinery, will be Howard Sackstein. Having travelled to 76 countries, attended university with Barack Obama and interacted with some of the world’s greatest leaders and thinkers, Sackstein has distilled life lessons from seven people: • David Roberts of Singularity University: lessons on change.

• Dan Arieli, the world’s most famous behavioural economist: lessons on morality.

• Daniel Gilbert, the world’s most famous expert on happiness: lessons on happiness.

• Dr Ruth, the world’s most famous sex ologist: lessons on grabbing opportunities and overcoming adversity.

• Mohammed Jajbhai and Victor: lessons from the 1994 elections on working to gether to change the world.

• Adrian Gore, CEO of Discovery: lessons on perspective.

• Nelson Mandela, visionary and former President of SA: lessons on gratitude.

And a bonus lesson from Simon Sussman, Chairman of Woolworths: “You’ve got to learn, earn and return.”

This year’s Business Breakfast will be held on Sunday, 6 October at 09h00 in Café Nala (situated on the floor above Jewellex).

Jewellex Africa is the premier trade fair of the South African jewellery industry and has been hosted by the Jewellery Council

of South Africa for over 40 years. The event attracts exhibitors from all over the world, including Europe, USA, the East and the SADC countries. This is when new merchandise lines and the most exclusive and extensive product ranges of watches, clocks, fine jewellery, pearls and precious stones, jewellery packaging, machinery, accessories and services available are offered to the local and international retail jewellery industry.

Jewellex Africa 2019 is scheduled to take place from 5-7 October at the Sandton Convention Centre in Johannesburg.

For further information, contact the Jewellery Council on tel: (011) 484-5528 or e-mail Lorna Lloyd on: lornal@jewellery.org.za.

CELEBRITIES FUND NEW CUSTOM JEWELLERY PLATFORM New York-based start-up Pietra believes it has found the answer to personalising the online jewellery-buying experience.

The company, which is backed by celebrated investor Marc Andreessen, along with funds connected to Robert Downey Jr and Will Smith, recently launched Pietra Studio, an online fine jewellery platform that directly connects consumers with leading designers to create custom pieces.

“Right now, the experience of buying jewellery online is antiquated and intimidating,” says Pietra’s CEO, Ronak Trivedi. “When you’re buying one of life’s most meaningful purchases, whether it’s for an engagement

or anniversary, you want that process to be meaningful. You want a connection with the designer and to understand the story behind the piece.”

Customers have access to more than 100 global jewellery designers, ranging from small mom-and-pop shops to well-known jewellers who create pieces for popular celebrities.

Prices on the site for custom jewellery range from US$250-30 000 for designers such as Stephen Webster and Nicole Wegman, of Ring Concierge.

Buyers can either pick a designer they like from those available or be assisted by a concierge who uses a survey to connect

them to the most appropriate designers.

Consumers then work one-on-one with the designers to create their piece. Pietra also offers a ready-to-wear marketplace where buyers can purchase existing jewellery.

The company completed its seed round of funding in March, in which it raised an undisclosed amount. The round was led by Andreessen Horowitz, with other participants including high-profile investors The Dreamers’ Fund, a venture capital business started by talent manager and record executive Scooter Braun, model Joan Smalls and actor Will Smith. Downey Jr’s Downey Ventures also contributed capital. – Rapaport

PANDORA RELAUNCHES TO ATTRACT YOUNGER AUDIENCE Pandora unveiled its new branding in Los Angeles at a launch ranking as the largest marketing investment in the company’s history.

Approximately 400 international guests attended the Danish jeweller’s VIP Streets of Love event, including Australian model Shanina Shaik and Italian actress and singer Elisabetta Canalis. The pink décor at the party, Pandora’s new signature colour, also represents the retailer’s new focus on empowering women.

The company hopes the new look and feel will help it target a younger market.

“Pandora recently partnered with Millie Bobby Brown specifically to support the launch in October of Pandora Me, a new collection developed with a younger audience

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in mind,” the company says. “Later in the year, Pandora will launch products in collaboration with Harry Potter and Frozen II.” The company hopes its new purpose, which it describes as giving “a voice to people’s loves – passions, people and places”, will increase sales. The jeweller has struggled with falling sales and profit for more than a year, cutting over 1 200 jobs and leading to the resignation of its CEO and Chairman. Last month the company reported a 2,6% drop in global sales to US$697,2 million in the second quarter, while profits plunged 50% to US$78,1 million.

Pandora has also tapped into social media, forming long-term partnerships with

six well-known global influencers who it feels will connect with the company’s core audience. Nathalie Emmanuel is an English actress and Instagram influencer with more than 5,5 million followers, while Georgia May Jagger, daughter of Rolling Stones musician and vocalist Mick Jagger, is an English fashion model and designer. Halima Aden, an American fashion model and the first woman to wear a hijab in the Miss Minnesota USA pageant, has nearly 1 million Instagram followers. Pandora has also signed 18-yearold American actress Larsen Thompson, Sydney-born photographer and director Margaret Zhang, and American artist and photographer Tasya van Ree. – Rapaport

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2019

NEWS

JEWELLEX AFRICA COCKTAIL FUNCTION MANUFACTURING Arrangements for Jewellex Africa 2019 are well as earn foreign exchange.

BUSINESSES well underway and this year’s Jewellex comThe main aim of the event is to showcase INVITED TO mittee is extremely excited to be offering an new merchandise lines and the most exclueven better show. sive and extensive product ranges of watches, PARTICIPATE IN Highlights of the event will include the clocks, fine jewellery, pearls and precious stones, Jewellex Cocktail Function, sponsored by Anglo jewellery packaging, machinery, accessories and THE 2020 FACTORY American Platinum, which will be hosted at the services available to the local and international OF THE YEAR Metcon Coffee Shop at 15h00 on Saturday, retail and wholesale jewellery industry.

5 October. Fashion students from the Tshwane Jewellex Africa 2019 is scheduled to COMPETITION University of Technology will dress models in take place from 5-7 October at the Sandton couture outfits to show off beautiful jewellery.

Jewellex Africa offers an environment for B2B linkages that has resulted in significant business growth and the integration of new industry participants. One of the main objectives of the event is to become the trading hub of Africa, giving other countries an opportunity to see what our continent has to offer in one space. It also aims to provide a secure trading platform for product distribution into and out of Africa. By growing Jewellex into Jewellex Africa, the Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA) is aiming to include neighbouring countries and international exhibitors, acknowledging that SA is part of a global market. The core purpose of this vision is to assist the South African jewellery industry to grow and create jobs, as

Convention Centre, Johannesburg.

The Department of Trade & Industry is a partner and sponsor of the 2020 Factory of the Year competition. Factory of the Year is a global annual benchmarking competition that has been running for over 25 years and is recognised as the toughest test for companies in the production industry.

The competition has benchmarks and best practices for factories across all industries and over 30 countries. Manufacturing businesses which wish to participate in the competition are invited to visit www.safactoryoftheyear.co.za for further details. All submissions must be received by 31 October 2019. The winners will be announced in June 2020 at the Manufacturing Indaba. Participation is open to and encouraged across all manufacturing segments.

DIAMONDS

Courtesy the De Beers Group

Courtesy the De Beers Group

THE GROUP OF YOUNG DIAMANTAIRES WHO arrived in Limpopo on 3 September comprised 25 members from the international diamond industry. Two years ago, Rami Baron, President of the Diamond Dealers Club of Australia and a member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses’ (WFDB) Executive Committee, established the Young Diamantaires initiative.

The purpose of the initiative is to stimulate a conversation worldwide with as large a group as possible in the under-45 age bracket.

“Only through discussion can we understand this generation’s fears and concerns about what’s currently happening in the diamond world. We want to provide them with a forum where they can question how our industry should look and feel in the future. We also want them to hear

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Courtesy the De Beers Group

On 4 and 5 September, a group of younger members of the diamond industry from various countries visited De Beers’ Venetia Mine and Mapungubwe in Limpopo as part of the Young Diamantaires initiative.

Young Diamantaires v Mine and Mapungubw ongoing conversations from a dozen different countries. This shapes the thinking of both active and passive participants,” says Baron, who was also part of the group.

Together with the Young Diamantaires, members of the international press, including SA Jewellery News, The Wall Street Journal, the Rapaport Group and Mining Africa, also attended the tour. The group visited Venetia mine on 4 September and was accompanied by Jackie Mapiloko, Corporate Affairs Manager for De Beers Managed Operations, Frank Auger, Beneficiation Manager for De Beers and Chris Botha, Senior Manager for Corporate Affairs at Venetia Mine, while Hendrick Matjila, Senior Manager for Safety & Sustainable Development at Venetia Mine, addressed the group before they entered it.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2019

Courtesy the De Beers Group

Courtesy the De Beers Group

Courtesy the De Beers Group

DIAMONDS

visit Venetia we in Limpopo

Courtesy the De Beers Group

For most in the group, this was their first visit to a diamond mine. Venetia Mine, situated in Limpopo Province close to Botswana and Zimbabwe, is De Beers’ only diamond mining operation in SA. It was opened on 14 August 1992 and has significantly contributed to the development of the communities in which it operates. Venetia mine is the country’s largest

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2019

producer of the stones, contributing 40% of SA’s annual diamond production.

Open-pit mining at Venetia is likely to run until 2021 and preparations are already underway to convert to underground mining, which is expected to extend the life of the mine to 2046 and provide an estimated 94 million carats from about 132 million tonnes of ore.

Excavation work for the US$2 billion underground extension began in 2013, the year the De Beers Group celebrated its 125th anniversary. The new underground mine is the biggest single investment in the country’s diamond industry in decades and is scheduled to begin production in 2021, reaching full production in 2025.

The decline tunnel from the surface, providing access to the underground mine, has reached more than 2 600 m in length. Two vertical shafts, each 7 m in diameter, are being

dation village has been built in nearby Musina to house workers.

The company has minimised the impact of mining operations by adopting an environmental management programme. It has also worked hard to enhance the surrounding area – for example, by creating the Venetia Limpopo Nature Reserve. The mine is in a semi-arid region, so it keeps its water use to a minimum.

One-third of the processed water is recycled.

During 2018, Venetia mine produced 4,2 million carats.

“Put safety first” is a core value at its operation. This was evident through the safety induction and presentations prior to entering the mine (it was a surface visit) and the rigid safety measures taken once inside it. The tour group was also taken to the Venetia open pit.

On 5 September, WFDB President Ernie Blom arranged for the group to visit the Mapungubwe National Park. Located where

sunk to a depth of 1 080 m.

About 4 365 people are employed at Venetia mine, of whom 2 571 are contractors. As part of the underground project, an accommo-

SA meets Botswana and Zimbabwe, the park is as rich in history as it is in wildlife and flora, and contains numerous traces of ancient civilisations. In 1933, artefacts were found in

15

Courtesy the De Beers Group

Courtesy the De Beers Group

Courtesy the De Beers Group

16

Courtesy the De Beers Group

three of 27 graves excavated by the University of Pretoria on Mapungubwe Hill. These include anklets, bracelets, beads, ornaments and wooden forms tacked with gold foil. The forms include a sceptre, a bowl, a headdress, the Mapungubwe gold rhinoceros and several other animal shapes. The bowl, sceptre and rhinoceros, in particular, have become iconic in SA’s indigenous cultural heritage. In 1997, they were declared national treasures and in 2002, they were recognised as official symbols of the highest order of excellence in the country, the Order of Mapungubwe.

Well before 900 AD, this landscape was occupied by people and prehistoric animals, such as dinosaurs. Southern Africa’s first kingdom was established at Mapungubwe Hill between 1200 and 1290 AD. Home to a powerful tribe who flourished on trading with Eastern cultures such as China and India, Mapungubwe saw the rise and fall of this civilisation more than 700 years ago. Today the area serves as both a national park (declared in 2004) and a World Heritage Site (declared by Unesco in 2003).

“The Venetia mine tour, as well as the Mapungubwe visit, were extraordinary experiences for all the members in the group,” says Baron.

The overall aim of the Young Diamantaires

Courtesy the De Beers Group

DIAMONDS

initiative is to prepare the next generation of diamantaires to participate in this process.

“This will enable them to see how they can influence the future of an industry which provides them and their families with their livelihood,” explains Baron.

“Change happens so quickly that we can’t afford to stumble along, hoping someone will get it right and that we’ll have the best future leaders. Like all good businesses, we need to have a model of succession in place,” he adds.

“The WFDB recognised this and formed the Young Diamantaires [as a platform which can generate that model].”

The more than 200 younger members from

the diamond industry from close to 20 countries aim to provide feedback and advice via a WhatsApp group and other social media platforms to improve communications in the trade among the next generation. Members of all sectors of the global diamond industry under the age of 45 are welcome to join the Young Diamantaires group.

The next major event for the group was a breakfast meeting during the Hong Kong September gem and jewellery show.

Joining the Young Diamantaires group is a simple process, requiring a referral from an existing member or from a local diamond club or bourse.

The more than 200 younger members from the diamond industry from close to 20 countries aim to provide feedback and advice via a WhatsApp group and other social media platforms to improve communications in the trade among the next generation. Members of all sectors of the global diamond industry under the age of 45 are welcome to join the Young Diamantaires group.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2019

Monthly educational insert A SA Jewellery News and Jewellery Council of South Africa initiative

Written by Dr Petre Prins, Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook is an introduction to gemstones, jewellery and store management.

The following is an extract from Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook

After two years postgraduate research at Cambridge University, UK, and ten years as senior lecturer in geochemistry and mineralogy at the University of Stellenbosch, South Africa, Dr Prins, in 1982, started Prins & Prins Diamonds, a leading supplier of diamonds, gemstones and fine jewellery in Cape Town.

ISSUE 1

ISSUE 1 SUCCESSFUL START-UP AND MANAGEMENT GUIDELINES • So you want to open a jewellery store?

• Trade protocol and the value of trust

• Finding your niche

SO YOU WANT TO OPEN A JEWELLERY STORE? When starting a new jewellery store without the help of parents, the entrepreneur may be unaware of what he does not know, or he thinks he knows enough to go it alone. Below are a few obstacles that need to be overcome before success will be yours.

Opening a new jewellery store is not easy and for entrepreneurs with little or no experience, the challenges are daunting. Normal business concerns like cash flow, inventory control, bookkeeping, hiring and managing staff, licences, etc, should not be a problem.

Experts in these fields can easily be contracted.

However, the start-up jeweller needs extensive knowledge about the industry that he/she is entering. Second- or thirdgeneration jewellers take this knowledge for granted and usually have a family member to run to for advice.

PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE Basic knowledge about diamonds and gemstones - Knowing how to identify, price and source your products is essential. If

you do not know your stones, you will be buying blind and will surely burn your fingers.

Basic knowledge about precious metal jewellery - It is essential to be able to identify inferior quality jewellery and poor workmanship. Getting this experience is not easy and the entrepreneur must be prepared to pay some school fees.

Returned items and “come-backs” will soon tell you what is acceptable and what is not.

Fashion awareness - Fine jewellery has become much more fashion-sensitive than in the past. You need to be aware of trends or you may wonder why the items (that you may like) are not selling. Local and international trade magazines and shows will help in this regard.

Price awareness - Overpaying for inventory is a painful lesson most new jewellers are learning. Finding the right suppliers that sell quality at a fair price will take time. Visit local trade shows and join your local trade association or buying group. Use the Internet - you have a wealth of information at your finger tips.

SUCCESSFUL START-UP AND MANAGEMENT GUIDELINES

Product mix - Finding the right type of merchandise for your specific market is a long trial-and-error process. Visit successful stores in your area and take note of their merchandise. Buy what is selling in your store, dump what is not selling and never make the same buying mistake.

MARKETING KNOWLEDGE Identify your market - You must know the profile of the clients who will be walking through your door, what their needs are and how to reach them with promotions.

Establish a name - The value of your name and your company’s name - ie, your reputation - can make or break you in this business. Remember, you start with no reputation and an unknown name on your door. A newcomer may not be favoured by major watch brands and suppliers could be hesitant to supply you with goods on consignment. Clients do not know you and would rather support your opposition that has been around for some time.

Prepare a marketing budget - In order to draw people to your store, you have to offer them something different and exciting.

You have to spend money on promotions and marketing and, once they are in your store, give them a shopping experience that they will talk about. Word of mouth is one of the best marketing tools for a new jeweller. What about a python in your window?

Build a client list - Remember that it is cheaper to retain an old client than it is to find a new one. Look after your existing clients.

Do not let them leave your store without capturing their names, contact numbers and addresses. Use the telephone, e-mail and Internet to lure them back.

Keep proper books - You must know where your business is going. Without accurate records - such as stock, financial or staff info - you will be swimming in the dark.

Have sufficient finance in place - This is probably the most difficult hurdle for newcomers. Be open with your banker and/ or your backer. They should not expect a quick return on their money and you will not get rich overnight. With patience and good planning, the rewards will come.

Stay away from shady deals! - The temptation to make a quick buck - especially when the going is tough - has been the downfall of many newcomers to this industry.

Remember that your reputation is worth more than any profit you can make from a shady deal.

HOW DO YOU SURVIVE UNTIL YOU HAVE ESTABLISHED A REPUTATION? Treat every client with respect and friendliness - make him a friend and a client for life. If possible, hire only experienced staff who already have a following and who will add knowledge and industry contacts to your business. Be professional, patient and not greedy - offer quality merchandise at a fair price and your reputation will be established sooner than you think.

BUILD YOUR BUSINESS ON INTEGRITY Integrity is the cornerstone on which a successful career in the diamond and jewellery industry is built.

This does not mean that other industries do not also require a high degree of ethics. But how many other industries will accept a handshake as a binding contract for the exchange of goods valued at millions of rands?

BUSINESS KNOWLEDGE Do proper research - For first-generation jewellers, it is important to carefully research every aspect of the business before opening a store, and afterwards as well. Plan properly and copy your competitors - find out what works for them.

Find a mentor - This could be an experienced supplier, retail colleague or even an experienced employee.

The emphasis on integrity is understandable in an industry whose products can be enhanced by technology, where imitations of the real thing can be made in the laboratory and where the consumer, most of the time, has to rely on the ethics and knowledge of the seller.

The problem arises when one man’s ethical code differs from another’s. That is why the diamond industry is such a difficult one to enter. I would rather deal with a colleague whose ethics I trust than do business on a handshake with one I do not know.

ISSUE 1

4 000 YEARS OF GEM ETHICS The holy books of nearly all religions frequently describe the use and meaning of precious metals and gems. As most religions provide a basis of ethics, it is no wonder that precious gems are also associated with high ethical standards. In the Old Testament, the high priest Aaron - protector of the morals of the Israelites - is described as wearing an official breastplate embedded with 12 large precious stones (representing the 12 tribes of Israel).

Build up a cash basis because, when you are ready to go solo, you will need finance.Your bank may be able to help to some extent, but, unfortunately, most banks do not understand the diamond business and may be reluctant to sponsor a young upstart in a game known for its high casualty rate.

However, in obtaining stock, your reputation will be worth a million. Now you must call on the suppliers you have been dealing with to give you stock “on appro”. If you have built your reputation on integrity and knowledge, then you should have no difficulty in finding stock. Thereafter, it is up to you.

Put all your available cash into saleable stock before you buy that new car. You are in the business to sell diamonds, not cars.

Be patient and do not be greedy. Today, fortunes are not made overnight in the diamond and jewellery industry. Such an illusion has sunk many an entrepreneur who was blinded by the romance and glitter of diamonds.

If you are a wholesaler, always leave a profit for the next man.

Aaron, on the right, wearing the official breastplate with 12 gemstones

WHAT MUST THE NEWCOMER DO TO GET AHEAD IN THIS INDUSTRY? Do not be in a hurry and be prepared for a lifetime commitment.

Start as young as possible (while your living expenses are still reasonable). Do not start on your own, but join a reputable firm where you can gain knowledge and experience while you establish yourself as a person of repute. Be fair and honest in all your dealings - profit should not be your only motivation.

If you retail, ask a fair price, backed by quality and service.

Remember that the public does not buy a diamond every year.

You may have to wait 20 years for the father, who bought a diamond from you, to refer his son to you. Clients who believe in your integrity may use your services once or twice in 10 years.

That is the reality of diamond sales.

You have to be in this business for the long haul. Remember, a good reputation is not built overnight, but a bad one will ruin you overnight. It will take time to build a reasonable stock holding and even longer to build a loyal clientele.

Above all, enjoy what you are doing and keep on smiling, even when the going gets tough.

Respect your clients and look after the small deals – the large ones will follow.

TRADE ORGANISATIONS It is essential that you join a trade organisation in order to be informed about trends and activities in your industry.

The Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa (DJFSA) is the umbrella body for the Diamond Council of South Africa (DCSA) and the Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA).

If you are a retailer, join the Jewellers’ Association of South Africa (JASA). If you are a rough diamond trader or cutter, you can join, respectively, the Rough Diamond Dealers’ Association (RDDA)

or the Master Diamond Cutters Association (MDCA). Polished diamond wholesalers can join the Diamond Dealers’ Club of SA. Jewellery manufacturers should join the South African Jewellery Manufacturers’ Association (JMASA). All these associate bodies are affiliated to either the DCSA or JCSA. They can be contacted on telephone: +27 (0)11 334 1930, email: admin@jewellery.org.za; or via their website: www.jewellery.org.za. Your small annual membership fee will be well spent.

This educational supplement was proudly sponsored by

SUCCESSFUL START-UP AND MANAGEMENT GUIDELINES

THE DIAMOND AND JEWELLERY FEDERATION OF SOUTH AFRICA SA Diamond and Precious Metals Regulator (SADPMR)

Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA)

Retailers

Wholesalers

SETA - Mining Qualification Authority (MQA)

Industry Secretariat

Jewellery manufacturers

Diamond Council of South Africa (DCSA)

Rough Dealers’ Association

Diamond Cutters’ Polished Diamond Association Dealers’ Association

TRADE PROTOCOL The protocol of buying diamonds and jewellery is the same whether you are a wholesaler or retailer. Here are a few guidelines: • Introduce yourself and define the purpose of your

visit. Do you want to sell, buy or merely introduce yourself?

•

Do not interrupt. If the salesperson is busy, give him time to close his deal.

•

Do not pretend you are something you are not. Many inexperienced dealers or representatives try to be smart and lie about their principals or the size of their company in order to impress a new client. Once you have been exposed, your integrity is nil.

•

Do not expect an offer or a price quoted to last forever.

If you return the next day and say: “Okay. Yours is the best offer, I’ll take it”, the seller (or buyer) has every right to withdraw the offer.

•

If you are selling to the trade, do not expect your client to grade the stone or give free advice on pricing.

•

Be very clear on the price and terms at which you offer an item.

•

Once you have verbally accepted an offer, or have made a verbal offer to purchase, you cannot rescind.

•

Often the traditional Jewish terms - brocha, meaning “blessings” and mazel (meaning “fortune”) - are said on a handshake as a seal to the agreement. In this business, your word is your bond. Once you have damaged your reputation by not honouring a mazel, you will find it hard to continue as few jewellers and dealers can afford to trade with someone who cannot be trusted.

•

Remember, the only trick in this trade is: T for trust R for reputation I for integrity C for courtesy and consistency K for knowledge

THE VALUE OF TRUST Where (other than in the diamond industry) will a supplier leave goods with a colleague with the undertaking: “Pay me when you sell it, and if you don’t, I will take it back”?

Trust is the one issue which jewellers and diamond dealers cannot do without. Those businesses in the gem and jewellery

industry that have grown and prospered did so because they valued the trust of their customers above all else.

Another important fact about trust is that gemstone prices rise or fall to the level of trust or doubt that exists in the quality of the material that is bought. In other words, if there is doubt

This educational supplement was proudly sponsored by

ISSUE 1

whether a gemstone is synthetic or natural, treated or untreated, the prevailing price will fall to that of the treated or synthetic level.

Therefore, it is of prime importance that dealers in all types of gemstones disclose whether the gemstone is natural or synthetic, treated or untreated and, in the case of diamonds, guarantee that it is conflict-free. The reluctance of some dealers to disclose this information can cast a stigma on treated stones and create mistrust among dealers.

The result can be that prices, even for untreated stones, drop significantly.

A case in point is the large quantity of beautiful orangey-pink sapphires that appeared on the market in 2001. It was soon discovered that the colour of these stones was artificially produced by a bulk diffusion process. In this process, the gems are not only heated (which is a normal and accepted practice), but foreign chemicals are added during heating. These elements migrate into the gem to produce a thin coloured skin. Very quickly, warnings spread through the industry and dealers started to mistrust the authenticity of coloured sapphires. The result: a drop in the price of all sapphires.

Luckily, it is now possible to identify whether a stone has been treated and most laboratory certificates will indicate whether the colour is natural or not. The detection and disclosure of these treatments restored trust and the price difference between natural and synthetically coloured diamonds came back to normal.

Consumers want to know what they are buying. Some are prepared to pay a premium price for a natural stone, as long as they have trust in its authenticity, while others prefer a beautiful treated gem at a lower price, as long as they know what has been done to the stone.

Our industry should not be afraid to disclose gemstone treatments as we are living in a world where trust is becoming a main component in the value attached to gemstones.

The same has happened with fancy coloured diamonds when it was discovered that high temperature/high pressure (HT/ HP) treatment improves the colour of a diamond. At first, laboratories could not detect them and price confusion reigned among dealers in fancy coloured diamonds.

HOW TO PROTECT YOURSELF AGAINST MISREPRESENTATION The sale of synthetic gemstones (diamonds and coloured gems), misrepresented as natural gems, has become a major threat to the gem and jewellery industry. Most of these synthetic gems are used in mass-produced inexpensive jewellery. Synthetics can easily be slipped into parcels of natural gems and the sheer volume of stones makes it virtually impossible to test each stone. Unfortunately, most retail jewellers do not have the expertise or facilities to identify synthetic gems that are set in jewellery, and may present such items as of a natural origin. Once the consumer discovers that he has been sold a synthetic gem when he believed that he bought a scarce natural stone, his trust in the retailer will be shattered and the industry will suffer.

• If the order is large, have a trained gemmologist do a

random test.

• When selling, make sure that you and your staff know

the product.

• Acquaint yourself with synthetic production methods so

that you can inform your clients.

• Learn the basic gemmological tests to identify synthetics.

• Use a qualified gemmological laboratory to identify gems

you cannot. Never guess - it will cost you your reputation.

What jewellers must do to protect themselves •

Make sure that your supplier has a track record for honesty.

• Make sure that your supplier has a return policy in case

of misrepresentation.

• If you identify a stone as synthetic, which someone tried

to sell as a natural gem, report it to the Jewellery Council

of SA or your trade organisation.

This educational supplement was proudly sponsored by

SUCCESSFUL START-UP AND MANAGEMENT GUIDELINES

FINDING YOUR NICHE IN THE JEWELLERY INDUSTRY A newcomer to the jewellery industry will be successful only when he has analysed his own strengths and weaknesses and has identified the threats and opportunities which the industry offers. In other words, a personal SWOT analysis is required before you sign your first lease.

FIRST LOOK AT YOURSELF. Are you outgoing and at ease with people or do you prefer to work on your own?

Do you have sufficient funds and an entrepreneurial spirit to start on your own?

Or do you need to work for a boss?

Are you home-bound or can you travel?

2. Independent (stand-alone) jewellery stores •

Mall kiosks selling to the lower and middle market, highly fashionable goods.

•

Mall specialist stores selling either pearls, watches, writing instruments or silverware.

•

Mall or main street stores specialising in 18ct, platinum, designer items, pearls, watches, clocks, even tableware ie, the traditional jewellery store serving the middle to upper market. They often have a few goldsmiths working in sight of passing clients.

•

Mezzanine jeweller/destination shop. Situated away from busy retail traffic and offering a specialist service to middle and upmarket clients. These jewellers trade on their reputation, word of mouth and normally offer specialist skills.

3. Chain jewellery stores What technical skills do you have?

What type of jewellery do you love?

Honest answers to these questions will lead you to one of the businesses described below.

NOW LOOK AT THE INDUSTRY. 1. Working from home, you can do one or more of

the following: •

Independent goldsmith working for private customers and retail stores.

•

Housewives importing pearls or gold chains, selling to local clients, normally in small country towns.

•

Diamond and gemstone “runners”, acting on behalf of a wholesaler - serving jewellers in larger cities.

•

Specialists in antique jewellery, diamonds, pearls and gemstones who supply jewellers in larger cities.

•

Crafters selling silver jewellery, gemstones, mineral specimens and lower-end, mass-production jewellery from flea market stalls.

Such as Galaxy, Sterns and American Swiss. They normally trade from busy malls or a main street position in smaller towns.

4. Discount stores Examples are Makro, Dion, etc. Their jewellery department, offering mass production silver and 9ct items, is a small section of their operation.

5. Department stores Examples are Edgars, Foschini, etc. They normally have a small in-house jewellery depar tment selling 9ct and 18ct jewellery and pearls, as well as a separate section for low-cost fashion jewellery.

6. Pawn shops Normally situated near high-density working-class pedestrian malls.

7. Buyers of second-hand gold and diamonds These operate from similar locations to pawn shops. These enterprises buy gold and diamonds at prices far below their scrap value and are highly profitable, but require diligent bookkeeping and client identification. The depar tment of law enforcement is a frequent visitor to shops dealing in secondhand goods, for obvious reasons.

This educational supplement was proudly sponsored by

ISSUE 1

8. Auction houses Examples are Sotheby’s, etc, trading in upper market goods.

Some auctioneers specialise in deceased estates and/or lesser quality jewellery 9. Wholesale clubs and catalogue sales Popular in the USA, selling mass-production items to the lower to middle market.

10. Internet retail sites Blue Nile is the fastest-growing seller of jewellery to the American public. E-tailers offer a vast selection of mass-produced items, but customs and transport logistics limit their market penetration in smaller countries such as South Africa.

JOB OPPORTUNITIES IN THE WHOLESALE GEM AND JEWELLERY TRADE All wholesalers need competent, trustworthy salespersons willing to travel. This is a good starting point for those without finance and specialised skills. With a recommendation from your school principal, you should be able to join a reputable company selling either loose diamonds and gemstones, gold chains, local and imported jewellery, watches, fashion jewellery, beads and tableware. Precious metal refiners and local jewellery manufacturers also need salespeople to service jewellers.

JOB OPPORTUNITIES THAT REQUIRE SPECIALISED SKILLS

11. Online auction sites Examples are eBay, Blue Nile, etc. Fast-growing, with the same limitations as Internet retail sites.

12. TV-home shopping networks

If you have the required training, the following opportunities are offered in the gem and jewellery industry: •

Jewellery designers, especially those with computer skills.

• Diamond cutters and diamond polishers.

Sell mass-produced, mostly synthetic gems and gold jewellery, at large mark-ups.

SERVICES OFFERED BY JEWELLERS You need to decide which of the following services you are able to offer. Rather do not provide a service than do an unprofessional job.

•

Design of jewellery

•

Cleaning, polishing and plating of jewellery

•

Repair of gems and jewellery

•

Identification of gems and jewellery

•

Valuation of gems and jewellery

•

Brokerage of gems and jewellery on behalf of owners

•

Purchasing of old gems and jewellery

•

Restringing of beads and pearls

•

Return and trade-in of gems and jewellery purchased (prepare a written document for staff and clients that explains your policy on these issues)

• Trainee and qualified goldsmiths, gemstone setters,

model makers and jewellery polishers.

• Security and insurance experts.

•

Diamond and gemstone graders are employed at grading laboratories, diamond cutting factories, large wholesalers, chain stores and retailers.

•

Lecturers in design and jewellery manufacture are employed at most universities and technical institutions.

• Accountants, secretaries, marketing experts, human resources managers and those with management skills

are essential in any large organisation.

This educational supplement was proudly sponsored by

Specialist supplier of fine quality Tanzanite Foundation certified loose tanzanite and certified Tanzanite Blue jewellery.

TM

TM

www.tanzanitecompany.co.za marilyn@tanzanitecompany.co.za C +27 82 601 3621 warren@tanzanitecompany.co.za C +27 83 231 8919 P.O Box 85084, Emmarentia, 2029 T +27 11 446 5900 F +27 86 614 7433

BUSINESS

Industry developments AT THE BEGINNING OF SEPTEMBER HANRO FRIEDRICH disseminated the following letter to his clients and industry bodies for consideration. Friedrich Inc Attorneys, which works closely with the diamond and jewellery industry, is currently involved in a matter which deals directly with the BBBEE Commission and the way it operates. Friedrich feels strongly that this commission may have serious implications for all license-holders subjected to the Mining Charter. SA Jewellery News has taken the decision to publish the letter as is.

26

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2019

MARKETS

Business barometer A monthly survey conducted by SAJN among industry players (small and large) on a national basis.

MANUFACTURERS

0%

0% BETTER

BETTER

0%

100%

SAME

100%

Consumption of gold compared with last year this time

General sales compared with last year this time

33.3% BETTER

33.3%

SAME

SAME

0%

33.3%

WORSE

WORSE

DIAMOND DEALERS

WORSE

Consumption of platinum compared with last year this time

Consumption of silver compared with last year this time

AUGUST 2019 VS AUGUST 2018

WHOLESALERS General sales compared with last year this time

Best-selling diamond size

0,5ct

0%

100%

BETTER

BETTER

0%

0%

SAME

SAME

100%

0%

WORSE

WORSE

RETAILERS

0%

0%

0%

BETTER

BETTER

BETTER

0%

0%

SAME

SAME

SAME

0%

100%

100%

WORSE

Foot traffic

100%

WORSE

WORSE

General sales compared with last year this time

Watch sales

Breakdown of retail sales

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2019

bridal

31%

(Above): The USDZAR increased 0.0663 or 0.44% to 15.0820 on Friday September 27 from 15.0157 in the previous trading session. Historically, the South African Rand reached an all time high of 17.83 in January of 2016 and a record low of 2.71 in July of 1992. – All information supplied by tradingeconomics.com

fine jewellery watches

65%

4%

27

PNEUMA SERVICES

TO THE INDUSTRY CUSTOMSETTING FOR HAND-MADE PIECES

3D WAX PRINTING

JEWELLERY RANGE DEVELOPMENT

CORPORATE GIFT DESIGN & PRODUCTION

SILVERCASTING: RAW OR FINISHED, SET OR UNSET

SETTING OF CADPREPARED PIECES

HANDENGRAVING

LASER CUTTING & ENGRAVING

PLATING

PNEUMA JEWELLERS Tel: 011 702 1462/1891 | E-mail: pneuma@telkomsa.net | Website: www.pneumajewellers.co.za | Facebook: www.facebook.com/Pneuma-Jewellers-CC-New

PNEUMA ACADEMY OF EXCELLENCE – LEADERS IN JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING TRAINING | A2, 1st Floor, Crowthorne Centre, Corner Arthur & Main Roads, Kyalami, Midrand, Johannesburg | Tel: 011 702 1462/1891 | E-mail: info@pneumaacademy.co.za | Web: pneumaacademy.co.za

THE PERFORMANCE CATALYST

The power of vision

I’LL SOON HAVE THE PRIVIlege of working with a group in Mauritius. What was your thinking when you read that sentence?

No-one saw a text message in their mind reading: “Nigel working in Mauritius.” Instead, we all saw a picture – not text or numbers. Some of us may have pictured the beach, or having cocktails on a catamaran, or snorkelling in beautiful, clear turquoise water, or visiting the local markets in Port Louis.

If we think in terms of pictures, then the most important questions to ask are: “What is our vision (picture) for our business?” What is our aim? Where are we going? It seems simple and straightforward enough, yet many people cannot succinctly articulate what the vision of

Harvard business professor John P Kotter says we need a compelling and bold vision for every key part of our business. In fact, he maintains that we need a vision for every new initiative in it. Yet, despite being crucial, vision is very undervalued as a core part of strategic thinking and working.

My wife is currently tackling a 2 000-piece jigsaw puzzle of a rather detailed European homestead in all its summer glory, with flowers blooming and lush vegetation. Imagine what would happen if I hid away the picture on the cover of the box. The puzzle would become nearly impossible to do and her motivation for completing it would vanish. The same holds true in business, where – far too often – we ask people to commit their hearts and minds to a cause or direction, but they don’t know what the end picture of their endeavours will look like.

Napoleon Bonaparte was said to have been particularly skilled in understanding the importance of establishing a very clear vision for every single battle his troops engaged in.

He would walk down the ranks of his soldiers, randomly pick any of them and ask the man what his vision was for the conflict they were about to face: not last week’s battle, but today’s battle! If the soldier didn’t know, Bonaparte would discipline the commanding officer of that division, because he knew that if the vision had not been successfully communicated down the line, then the army would be in “di-vision” and risk losing.

Vision is not meant to be complicated or a series of well-worded phrases, framed in the

their team, their division or even their company is. They know what their job requirements and outputs are, but have no inspiring and engaging vision of where they are going.

reception entrance for visitors to see. It should be something that appeals to everyone, is understood by everyone and is able to be clearly and succinctly articulated by everyone,

Nigel Smith, a results catalyst, aims to help people and businesses achieve goals by equipping them to innovate, relate, sell, coach and lead.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2019

no matter what level they operate on. Vision should be exciting, exhilarating, inspiring and stretching, yet believable and achievable – motivating everyone to give their all, pursuing and chasing the dream, while managing the daily nightmares of routine.

If you have not engaged your team/s in the energising practice of collaborative visionforming, then it is never too late to start. Have some fun with it and keep going until you hit your sweet spot. The collaborative process alone will increase engagement, sharing and motivation among your teams.

Remember the age-old adage: “A picture paints 1 000 words.”

Despite being crucial, vision is very undervalued as a core part of strategic thinking and working.

29

TECHNOLOGY

Technological solutions for sustainability With members of the jewellery and gemstone sectors under growing pressure to demonstrate that they are conducting their businesses in a sustainable manner, including verifying that the items they purchase, process and sell have been sourced responsibly, a range of technological solutions are currently being developed to help them comply with the due diligence requirements. These came under the spotlight during a seminar on 9 September at the VicenzaOro show in Italy.

THE SEMINAR, WHICH WAS ORGANISED BY the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) and hosted by the Italian Exhibition Group (IEG), was the latest edition in a series of educational programmes organised by the two bodies (and endorsed by the United Nations Economic & Social Council (ECOSOC)) to support corporate social responsibility and sustainability in the jewellery sector. As Marco Carniello, Director of the IEG’s Jewellery & Fashion Division, pointed out, the seminar marked the 10th year of cooperation between CIBJO and Italy’s leading jewellery trade show organiser.

A growing percentage of the jewellery, gemstone and precious metals industries have taken steps in recent years to implement sustainable and responsible sourcing principles in their businesses, with more than 1 300 worldwide already certified by compliance organisations, after undergoing monitoring by independent auditors. But in an industry dominated by small and medium-sized companies, many participants find it challenging to follow suit and therefore experience difficulty in gaining access to chains of supply. The technologies discussed at the seminar are largely being developed to address these challenges.

“CIBJO is committed to the development of an ethical and sustainable jewellery industry, which sources its raw materials in both

a responsible and transparent manner,” said CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri, opening the seminar. “As we reiterated in the new Responsible Sourcing Blue Book, which was approved earlier this year, we believe all participants should do due diligence to the best of their ability. At the same time, we insist that no ethical members of our community be discriminated against because they currently lack the resources necessary to implement a full compliance system. It’s for this reason that we view the development of technological solutions as being so important.”

The panel of speakers, which was moderated by Erik Jens, Vice-President of CIBJO’s Responsible Sourcing Commission, represented a cross-section of this growing industry service sector, providing solutions to industry participants at all stages of the chain of distribution, from the mine to the retailer.

The panel included: Michillay Brown, Industry Transformation, Tracr, UK, who introduced the De Beers-developed blockchain-powered traceability platform, which uses cutting-edge technology to connect the diamond supply chain and provide provenance, traceability and authenticity for the diamond industry; Assheton Stuart Carter, Director of the Dragonfly Initiative, a sustainability advisory firm in the UK, which is currently developing a suite of due

diligence tools that will be made available free of charge to the jewellery and gemstone industry, as part of a joint initiative by CIBJO and the Coloured Gemstone Working Group, which Dragonfly facilitates; Daniel Nyfeler, MD of the Gübelin Gem Lab, Switzerland, which has developed a gemstone paternity programme called Provenance Proof that uses virtually undetectable nanoparticles which are embedded in a gemstone to verify its origin and then blockchain technology to communicate its provenance through the chain of distribution; Konstantin Born, Business Development Manager at GemFair, UK, who described the De Beers’ pilot project that aims to create a secure, transparent route to the market for ethically sourced artisanal and small-scale mined diamonds, where the miners are assured of receiving fair value for their output, using technology to foster the sector’s development as a credible and trusted source of diamond supply; Mark Hanna, Chief Marketing Officer of the Richline Group, a wholly-owned subsidiary of Berkshire Hathaway, USA, whose TrustChain Initiative tracks and authenticates diamonds and precious metals through every stage of the supply chain as it becomes a piece of finished jewellery, providing digital, physical product and process verification, as well as third-party oversight; and Francesca Marino, Senior CSR Advisor at CIBJO, Italy, who provided CIBJO’s perspective of sustainability and responsible sourcing in the jewellery industry, as articulated in the recently approved Responsible Sourcing Blue Book.

CIBJO is the international jewellery confederation of national trade organisations. Its mission is to protect consumer confidence in the industry, as well as promote international co-operation in the jewellery sector and consider issues which concern the trade worldwide.

CIBJO is the sole jewellery industry organisation having Special Consultative Status with ECOSOC and is a member of the UN Global Compact.

In an industry dominated by small and medium-sized companies, many participants experience difficulty in gaining access to chains of supply. The technologies discussed at the seminar are largely being developed to address these challenges.

30

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2019

INSPIRATION

Climbing mountains to move mountains Trek4Mandela brings together inspired individuals from corporate and public backgrounds, including Angela Yeung, award-winning jewellery designer, founder of Impilo Collection and executive member of the Diamond Dealers Club of South Africa.

The Diamond Dealers Club is always very active in local social responsibilities and supports various charities by having a yearly annual charity drive.

INSPIRATION

PROF THULI MADONSELA, WHO SERVED AS the Public Protector of SA from 19 October 2009-14 October 2016, and renowned jewellery designer Angela Yeung climbed Mt Kilimanjaro in August. As the dust of the 2018 Trek4Mandela centennial celebrations settled, the Imbumba Foundation officially announced yet another exciting and meaningful expedition.

The 2019 expedition up the mountain with Madonsela, titled “Climb for Dignity and Social Justice”, reached the rooftop of Africa on Women’s Day (9 August). The objective was to raise funds for the Caring4girls menstrual hygiene programme and TREK100, under the umbrella of the Imbumba Foundation, a joint initiative with the Nelson Mandela Foundation.

“I decided to step up and show up by climbing Kilimanjaro. It’s now not just about stretching myself, but about highlighting that if we’re going to put an end to poverty and inequality in this country and the world, each and every one of us has to step up and move beyond our comfort zones – and Kilimanjaro wasn’t in my comfort zone!” says Madonsela.

Yeung, for whom this was her second ascent up the mountain, has a passion for uplifting the lives of the disadvantaged in SA and is a supporter of various other charities. While acknowledging that the climb challenged her body, mind and spirit, she says she was ready to rise to new heights in order to raise awareness of the need to give young girls dignity. Research has shown that girls from poor backgrounds could miss up to 50 days of school each year due to menstrual-related challenges. According to UNICEF, girls who are empowered to attend school without interruptions tend to find better jobs, enjoy healthier lifestyles, have fewer children and provide them with better healthcare and education.

Last year Yeung raised R150 000 for 1 499 girls in Botshabelo, Free State, and this year she assisted two schools from the City of Ekurhuleni with the contribution of an eight-month supply of sanitary towels, as well as sharing her inspiring experience of climbing Kilimanjaro with the girls, motivating them to do the same for their communities in the future.

TREK100 is a leadership development programme which aims to give 100 girls from Caring4Girls-supported schools a once-in-alifetime opportunity to experience some of the world’s wonders on its seven continents.

The first expedition, which was launched last September, saw eight girls from disadvantaged backgrounds hiking up the Atlas Mountains – the highest ones in North Africa – after which they spent two days exploring the Sahara Desert. This year, a number of girls will be travelling to the Great Wall of China, with Yeung as one of their chaperones.

“Through this initiative, we hope to inspire 1 000 000 teenagers in SA by 2020. Each girl participating in a TREK100 journey will be assigned to visit 10 schools after her expedition to share her experience with her peers,” says Imbumba Foundation CEO Richard Mabaso.

With an international leadership development company facilitating hands-on development and training, there is a strong focus on empowerment and leadership as part of these epic adventures. Since its inception in 2012, the Trek4Mandela initiative has touched the lives of more than 700 000 adolescent girls, empowering them to realise their full potential.

“We need your help to assist our worthwhile and life-changing initiatives,” says Yeung.

To make a contribution, visit: www.givengain. com/ap/angela-yeung-raising-funds-for-imbumbafoundation.

PROUDLY SPONSORED BY

Born in Hong Kong, Angela Yeung immigrated to SA as a young child. Her unique design aesthetic, a blend of Asian and African influences, has won her numerous awards, including the AngloGold Ashanti AuDITIONS gold jewellery design competition for her elaborate headpiece entitled Connect in 2014. Her work has been featured on CCTV, China Review News, Cliff Central, SA Wedding, Cheek 2 Cheek, Sandton, Showbiz in Full HD and The Star. She has also exhibited her work in Hong Kong, China, Japan and London. She was selected by the Chinese government as an Eminent Overseas Chinese Youth and was invited to be part of a delegation representing SA in Beijing in 2017.

Inspired by the fine jewellery she found in the East and Africa’s abundant precious metals and minerals, Yeung studied metalsmith crafting before going on to qualify through the Gemological Institute of America as a Diamond Grading Graduate.

In 2005 she founded her own jewellery company, Impilo Collection, which specialises in the design and manufacture of both bespoke jewellery commissions for private clients and contemporary art jewellery collections. (“Impilo” means “life” in isiZulu.)

DID YOU KNOW?

Interesting facts 1

3

2

A diamond is composed entirely of carbon (Z = 6). It therefore does not show up very brightly on many medical x-rays. One of the common diamond replacements is cubic zirconia, which contains zirconium (Z = 40) and therefore shows up much more strongly.

The practice of inscription includes the etching of the grading report number associated with the stone. This is to ensure that jewellers, resellers or handlers do not "switch" the stone for one of a lesser quality.

In the early 20th century the tradition of male wedding rings, as we know them, began. It was only after the Korean War that male wedding bands took on the sentimental value they have today.

5

4

Sapphire, the birthstone of September, is most desired in its pure, rich blue colour, but is present in almost every colour including pink, yellow and green.

The gem was believed to protect those close to the wearer from harm and also represented loyalty and trust.

6

Victoria Beckham's engagement ring collection gets bigger every year, with new diamond rings and gemstone engagement rings being added. Her collection of engagement rings has grown from nine to 14 and the estimated value of her collection sits at around £8,9 million.

Dirt restricts light from entering the diamond, dulling its sparkle. To clean it, drop your ring into a shot glass filled with a clear, hard alcohol like vodka or gin. Allow the ring to soak for several hours. The ethanol content is a natural solvent that dissolves dirt molecules attached to the diamond.

• For your weekly dose of interesting industry-related facts, visit: www.facebook.com/pages/SAJN/508328912586722 and “like” the SAJN Facebook page.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2019

BUSINESS MANAGEMENT

AI not a key focus for marketers Bluegrass Digital CEO Nick Durrant says it is promising to see so many marketers planning to evolve their strategies through the adoption of new technology.

ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE (AI) WILL NOT FIND mainstream use among marketers until at least 2021, according to a new Marketing Foresight research report from Episerver, the company transforming digital experiences. This survey highlights the fact that while marketers are investing more and more in technology, some of the basics are being missed. Many marketers still do not have a responsive website or a clearly defined mobile strategy and, of those which do, many more are not providing a seamless omni-channel experience.

Local digital transformation specialist Bluegrass Digital says the survey asked over 100 in-house marketers which technologies they are currently using and when they intend to incorporate new technologies into their marketing strategy and stack. Durrant says the survey found that, despite the abundance of AI-driven marketing tech, more than 60% of marketers have no plans to incorporate AI before 2021.

“In contrast, 57% of marketers believe they’ll have incorporated augmented reality [AR] by 2020 and 58% will be using virtual reality [VR] as a key part of their marketing approach by the same year.”

With regard to more pressing technologies, 60% of marketers expect to deploy a customer service chatbot by the end of 2019. Among mar-

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2019

keters involved in the retail industry, 71% intend adopting one-click purchasing by the end of 2019, while 54% plan to accept virtual currency payments by 2022. The use of drones will move to the mainstream by 2023, as – for the first time – more than half (57%) of marketers will incorporate these into their strategy.

“It’s promising to see that so many marketers are planning to evolve their strategies through the adoption of new technology over the coming years. However, they mustn’t forget about technologies that ultimately enhance their day-to-day work,” says Durrant.

Episerver’s 2018 Reimaging Commerce report, based on a global survey of more than

4 000 online shoppers, revealed that 43% of UK consumers do not believe that brands do enough to personalise their online shopping experiences – almost 10% higher than the global average.

Durrant says aspects of the online shopping experience that also rank as “must-haves” include easy-to-use product search functions, ample information about products and returns, and personalised recommendations. “It’s crucial that the fundamental elements of marketing aren’t lost while trying to invest in the latest tech. New technologies should be deployed to support a great customer experience and not merely for the sake of keeping up with trends,” he says.

Episerver’s 2018 Reimaging Commerce report, based on a global survey of more than 4 000 online shoppers, revealed that 43% of UK consumers do not believe that brands do enough to personalise their online shopping experiences – almost 10% higher than the global average.

37

BRAND MANAGEMENT

TAG Heuer’s Autavia Inspired by the original Autavia wristwatches and dashboard timers of the 1960s, which were used in racing cars and aircraft, the new Autavia collection brings together functional, versatile style and cutting-edge technology. Each Autavia watch is equipped with TAG Heuer’s proprietary carbon-composite hairspring, “Isograph”.

The name “Autavia” comes from the combination of “automobile” and “aviation”. Accordingly, every new TAG Heuer Autavia has a propeller and tyre etched into its case-back. The bevelled lugs and

the name echo those of the original, but the watch features a state-of-the-art movement and a tough, scratch-resistant ceramic bezel.

The brown leather strap is interchangeable, with a stainless steel bracelet option available.

TAG Heuer’s unique heritage is built on pushing boundaries, breaking rules, harnessing mental fortitude to overcome technological constraints and creating watches with real racing spirit. The brand’s chronographs are renowned for their unparalleled mechanical accuracy.

Jaeger-LeCoultre main sponsor of 76th Venice International Film Festival of la Biennale di Venezia Maintaining its commitment to the culture of filmmaking and the preservation of cinematic heritage, La Grande Maison celebrated the 15th anniversary of its partnership with the Venice International Film Festival this year.

As the main sponsor of the event, JaegerLeCoultre adorned the stars with its finest timepieces and presented a personalised Reverso watch to the winners of the most prestigious awards: Best Film (Leone d’Oro,

the Golden Lion Award), Best Actress and Best Actor of the year (Coppa Volpi Awards) and the Golden Lion for Lifetime Achievement (Leone d’Oro Alla Carriera). The customised watches were hand-engraved in JaegerLeCoultre’s own workshops with the image of a lion – an iconic part of the official logo of La Biennale di Venezia – and the inscription “76. Mostra”.

Each year, Jaeger-LeCoultre pays tribute

to the creativity of cinematographers through the Glory to the Filmmaker Award. This year’s winner will join a list of distinguished past laureates, including Takeshi Kitano (2007), Abbas Kiarostami (2008), Sylvester Stallone (2009), Mani Ratnam (2010), Al Pacino (2011), Spike Lee (2012), Ettore Scola (2013), James Franco (2014), Brian de Palma (2015), Amir Naderi (2016), Stephen Frears (2017) and Zhang Yimou (2018).

Patek Philippe releases the new 5172G-001 chronograph

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Patek Philippe’s manual-wound CH 29-535 PS chronograph calibre, originally introduced in a ladies’ watch in 2009, has been used in the men’s 5170 series since 2010. The new 5172G-001 is the fifth iteration.

The movement has six patented innovations that optimise the chronograph function, including refined tooth profiles, blocking lever and hammers, and an optimised split seconds wheel.

The result is ultimate precision, improved amplitude and a greater element of self-adjustment.

The 18ct white gold case of the

water-resistant to 30 m. The sporty blue dial with large, baton-style, luminescent hands has a matching navy calfskin strap with topstitching. Functions include hours, minutes, small seconds, central chronograph seconds, 30-minute counter and tachymeter scale.

For 175 years, Patek Philippe has perpetuated the tradition of Genevan watchmaking. As the last family-owned, independent watch manufacturer in that city, it enjoys total creative freedom to design, produce and assemble what experts agree are the finest timepieces

5172-001 has vintage-style three-tier lugs and a sapphire box glass crystal, as well as guillochéd chronograph pushers.

It is 41 mm in diameter, 11,45 mm thick and

in the world, following the vision of its founders, Antoine Norbert de Patek and Adrien Philippe. The brand has a repertoire of more than 100 patents.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2019

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LITTLE GEMS

Blue turquoise was used in Iran (formerly Persia) to cover the domes of palaces because its intense shade was thought to symbolise heaven on earth.

Fashion is fickle Turquoise is one of the world’s most ancient gems and the national gemstone of Tibet. Excavations have revealed that rulers in ancient Egypt adorned themselves with jewellery containing this gemstone, while Chinese artisans were using it more than 3 000 years ago. It was a ceremonial gem and a medium for exchange in the American SouthWest, which today is the biggest and most permanent market for this stone. Alice Weil explores its possibilities.

HARDNESS AND RICHNESS of colour are two of the major factors determining the value of turquoise. The most desirable colour is a mixture of a strong sky- to robin’s egg blue. However, this shade is liable to fade or discolour over time.

The mother rock or matrix has patches, or a network of brown or black veins running through the stones. Unblemished or vein-free material is most highly prized, especially in the American South-West and the Far East.

Historically, light waxing or oiling may have been the first treatments used in ancient times.

This enhances the colour and lustre of the stone, but tends to result in “sweating”, under even gentle heat or exposure to too much sun.

However, turquoise’s colouring and sheen can be restored with skill.

Since fine turquoise is often found in thin seams, in use it is often glued to a base of

40

stronger foreign material for reinforcement.

Stones like this are usually termed “backed”.

This is a standard practice which increases the durability of thinly-cut slabs and cabochons.

This backing was used for old phonograph records made of shellac or polyvinyl chloride, but has more recently been replaced by epoxy steel resins.

Today turquoise is used for beads, cabochons and inlays. The stone evokes mystery and romance in its shades of blue and green. Turquoise is a secondary mineral which is formed by the action of percolating acidic material of pre-existing minerals – for example, the copper

DID YOU KNOW

it contains may have come from primary copper or from secondary carbonates, Turquoise was one of the first gems to be mined some 2 000 years ago. Iran (formerly Persia) has been an important source and some mines there are still worked today. Blue turquoise was used there to cover the domes of palaces because its intense shade was thought to symbolise heaven on earth; the deposit is naturally blue and turns green when heated. This stone is found in situ between layers of liminite and sandstone.

A significant source is in Arizona, USA, while the oldest mine is thought to have been in New Mexico, worked by pre-Columbians. However, this mine was exhausted before the 1920s.

While the gemstone was used extensively in ancient cultures and has retained a special place in the hearts of native Americans, it is becoming increasingly popular today in the fashion jewellery world, since it is extremely versatile and combines well with silver. Last year saw it appearing in both autumn and spring collections worldwide.

It has most frequently been used as inlays in bracelets, as well as overlays in certain types of native American jewellery, where uniquely shaped stones are used to create mosaic patterns, with a silver backing plate. It is also both stylish and functional in belt buckles.

If forecasts for the impending summer trends are correct, expect to see turquoise making a big return to the runways.

Alice Weil, who celebrated her 100th birthday in March this year, still researches, writes and emails her column Little Gems monthly.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – OCTOBER 2019

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